textile glossary
TEXTILE FIBERS
introduction
Première Vision has compiled its glossary of textile materials, to help identify the characteristics of each fiber, from the oldest to the most innovative.
This book, dedicated to fibers, forms the first chapter of the Glossary.
Textiles have been part of the human experience for thousands of years. Made of woven or knitted yarns, they feature an impressive diversity of techniques and materials.
The fibers that constitute a yarn come from a variety of sources: natural, artificial or synthetic. Over time, these raw materials have become more sophisticated and diversified, responding to shifting needs and the rising demand for production. Today, the increasing scarcity of natural resources and the impact of textile manufacturing on health and ecosystems are driving new fiber developments.
01 natural
The use of natural fibers dates as far back as 24,000 BC. Raw materials that can be spun derive from three categories of natural resources: plants (such as cotton and linen), animals (such as wool and silk), and minerals (such as gold and silver, used in embroidery).
While natural fibers enjoyed a monopoly for many centuries, over the past 100 years, they have gradually been replaced by chemical materials. Nevertheless, the worldwide production of natural fibers continues to rise in response to growing global consumption. Their inherent properties meet the call for comfort and durability, and advances in eco-friendlier farming models mean they are well positioned for those looking to source low-impact materials.
The natural fibers used in clothing fall into two main categories: natural plant fibers and natural animal fibers.
01 plant fibers natural
Natural plant fibers, primarily made up of cellulose, come from a variety of sources. Some are derived from fruit, such as cotton or kapok. Bast fibers, on the other hand, are found in the stems of plants such as flax and hemp. Lastly, some fibers, less widely used on an industrial scale, are extracted from leaves, bark or the fibrous layers surrounding nuts.
plant fibers natural
Cotton fiber comes from the seminal hairs that grow on the surface of the seeds of the cotton plant, a shrub in the Malvaceae family (Gossypium). Originally, this perennial plant, cultivated as an annual, was grown in India and Africa. Its cultivation then spread to tropical and subtropical zones. Today, five countries produce 75% of the world’s cotton: India, China, the United States, Brazil and Pakistan. Although between 40 to 50 botanical species of cotton plants have been identified, only four are used for fiber production (the Gossypium hirsutum variety accounts for 95% of world production). The oldest woven cotton garment, found in Pakistan, dates back to 3000 BC. Today, cotton is the most widely used natural fiber in the fashion industry.
Growing cotton requires very specific weather conditions. Above all, for the plant to grow it needs plenty of water and humidity, and then, to reach maturity, it needs a warm climate (between 21° and 37°). When the boll (fruit) opens, the cotton is harvested as “seed cotton”, which is a combination of fibers, linters (downy fuzz) and seed. Ginning separates the fibers from the seeds. The fiber clusters are then assembled into bales, sorted by quality, and sent to the spinning mill.
Fiber grading is determined by three factors: length, fineness and grade (color, brightness, impurities). Fiber length, the main criterion for determining quality, ranges from 1 cm to 5 cm on average, but some fibers are much longer. Fibers are considered short when they are under 20mm, medium between 20 and 30mm, and long when they exceed 30mm. Long-staple cotton varieties such as Giza (Egypt), Sea Island (Caribbean) and Pima (USA and Peru) are the most prestigious. Once spun, long-staple cotton is more durable, soft and lustrous.
< characteristics >
ADVANTAGES:
plant fibers natural
DISADVANTAGES:
< production impacts > Cotton is a soft, comfortable and lightweight fabric that can be worn year-round. It is easy to dye, bleach and wash, and remains solid whether wet or dry. It is naturally breathable and promotes moisture transfer. It does not accumulate static electricity. Cotton dries slowly and is susceptible to mildew. It may shrink and wrinkle. Washing may cause discoloration.
During the growing season, cotton plants are vulnerable to disease, fungus and insects. Its intensive cultivation thus requires the use of inputs, fertilizers and pesticides Conventionally grown cotton can also require large amounts of water for irrigation and treatment. In some cases, cotton is grown under social conditions that do not comply with international labor standards. Gradually, initiatives are emerging to improve the environmental and social impacts of cotton, including organic and regenerative farming, ‘family farms’ and other alternative, more sustainable models.
origins >
< production & transformation >
plant fibers natural
Two types of flax are cultivated: flax seed, used to produce oil, and flax fiber, used by the textile industry to make linen. Flax fibers are known as “bast fibers”, meaning they are contained in the stem of the plant.
Europe is the world’s leading producer of flax fiber, with three-quarters of all long-fibers grown in France, Belgium and the Netherlands.
Nevertheless, this fiber has been experiencing renewed interest in recent years, thanks to its superior quality, environmentally-friendly cultivation and, for the European market, its local appeal.
Flax is planted on average, every seven years as a rotational crop. It requires little nitrogen, boosts the biological activity of the soil and improves the quality of subsequent crops (wheat, potatoes, rapeseed). Sowing takes place in March and April, and the plant reaches maturity after 100 days. The flowers live for just one day, opening in the morning and fading in the evening.
Once harvested, the flax is retted. This initial transformation phase consists of allowing the micro-organisms present in the soil to eliminate the pectose that binds the textile fibers to the woody part of the stem.
Next comes the scutching phase, during which the fibers are separated from the wood present in the stem (shives). The entire plant is used: long and short fibers, shives and seeds. The fibers are then combed into long ribbons. Lastly, fibers from different harvests are blended to ensure uniform quality, before being sent to the spinning mill.
01
< classification >
plant fibers natural
Linen fibers range in length from 25 to 150mm. They are divided into two categories: long fiber and short fiber. Fiber length and color vary from crop to crop, depending on weather conditions.
< characteristics >
ADVANTAGES:
Linen is a heat-regulating, breathable fiber that facilitates moisture transfer It has a lustrous appearance, a certain firmness and good dye affinity. Linen is also resistant to insects and high temperatures.
DISADVANTAGES:
It is an environmentally responsible fiber because it is local (for the European market), traceable, biodegradable and helps conserve water and soils. Linen is not very elastic and known to wrinkle. It is hard to bleach, which can make it difficult to obtain pastel or bright colors. Over time, and with many washings, it can show signs of wear.