Extremes PV Color Book AW25–26
If you look at it that way, a radical approach means letting each fabric’s unique personality play a crucial role.
In today’s fashion world, it’s vital to stand out, to assert and a rm who you are. Personalization has always been an integral part of Lyria’s DNA. In our brand’s philosophy, imperfection is an added-value and helps make each creation unique. But imperfections are also important because they re ect an industrial approach that fundamentally values the artisanal in textile design. From this perspective, the story of Prato’s production basin is truly unique. Since time immemorial, many small producers, each with their own personality and speci c know-how, contribute to the richness of an artisanal region that has embraced modernity without renouncing their individualism. Products from this particular reality are bound to be unique. They’re rooted in local tradition yet capable of transcending cultural di erences. Their identity is marked by the hand that crafted them, with love and boundless passion. Certainly for me, it couldn’t have been any other way. As the son of a farmer who turned to weaving after the war, I grew up surrounded by the noise of looms—as a child I played in a wooden crate lled with multi-colored yarns. All these years later, I’m still a self-taught man. Paying attention to the artisanal side of things is deeply rooted in my history, whether I’m trying to make the most of our suppliers’ creativity, or trying to push one of their machines to its very limit.
Can you give us an example of a material you’d like to work with in your projects?
I like to work on the weights, handles and behaviors of materials, to try to go beyond their usual uses and limits. Why should a thick, waterproof canvas weighing 800 grams be used just for coats? When I look at it, I see a fabulous skirt. The fabrics in our collections are radical because they encourage radical designs: the material becomes a challenge, an invitation to designers to rediscover real creative freedom in an increasingly standardize world. Recently, for example, I’ve been interested in paper yarns, which in Japan are still made by hand, using ancestral know-how. Traditionally, they were used to make socks with a classic openwork method, but the creative possibilities for reinterpreting these yarns are endless. They can be blended with a cellulose ber like Tencel for a uid result, or with linen for a springier e ect, for truly versatile fabrics with natural absorbent properties. The raw material already has everything—the real challenge is guring out how to give it strength, body, that singular intensity and personality, something that attracts all the senses. When my customers come to see the collection, there’s always a moment when I tell them, ‘Just close your eyes and feel the collection’. It’s not by looking at them but by touching them and even smelling them that you truly experience how each Lyria fabric tells a story.
Are there any limits you haven’t yet explored as a weaver, which you might like to push in the future?
It’s the fabric that drives you to test your limits and rewrite the rules. A thick, rustic and re ned fabric can be used for a rug, but hang it on a wall and it can be a work of art—a sumptuous modern tapestry. I’m particularly interested in the creative possibilities of heavy-weight fabrics. That’s why Lyria fabrics are always so dense, full of meaning and substance.
Lyria, a radical voice outside the chorus with Riccardo Bruni
3D t extile printing up to a maximum height of 50 mm
Silicone and silv er-powder coating on bleached jersey C T rompe l’oeil garment-washed e ect on a silk material with indigo dye and acid wash
Applica tion of real gold and silver powder
T rompe l’oeil sprayed crumpled e ect
Silicone coa ting
Finishes and w ashes produced in collaboration by Les Teintures de France for Denim Première Vision
St one-wash denim with placed color spray C Color spray D Plan t-based dye E Oz one wash on a jacquard denim fabric F T rompe l’oeil shibori done by laser printing, with a “dirty” overdye
H andmade regular distressed aspects
