Première Vision Daily News - Day 1

TUESDAY THE DAILY NEWS 15 SEPTEMBER 2015

THERE’SANENDURINGLOVESTORY

BETWEEN LEATHER AND SOLES. DISCOVER IT AT SHOE FOCUS P.6

CONNECTEDFASHION ANDTEXTILES?

Gruppo Mastrotto (Leather, 3D61-3E62)

TOMORROW’S ALREADY HERE...

GET UP TO DATE P.7

YARNS

Conference by Austrian fibre producer Lenzing.

Tuesday 15 at 2 pm. Hall 5, room 510

FABRICS

New seminar, Fabrics Trend Tasting

by Première Vision.

Tuesday and Thursday at 10:30 am. Mezzanine Hall 5, room 520 B

LEATHER

Cycle of 3 conferences on traceability.

30 min. Daily at 2 pm, 3 pm, 4 pm.

Hall 3, Incube bar

DESIGNS

All the trends from the decoration universe are freely accessible in the Gluesigns Document. Hall 5, Designs Forum

ACCESSORIES

Get your own season’s shoe bag at the new Shoe Focus.

Hall 4 North

MANUFACTURING

An exhibit dedicated to stunning meetings between jeanswear and dressy looks.

Upper Jeanswear.

Hall 6 North

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PV AWARDS: CEREMONY TODAY This year’s competition opened up to tanners. 6 PV Awards single out the creativity of exhibitors at both Première Vision Fabrics and Leather. With a jury presided over by the design duo from the couture brand On Aura Tout Vu. 5 pm. Fabrics, THE FORUM, HALL 6

NEWS INTHE

Malhia Kent (Fabrics, 5L14-5M13)

PM

SMART CONVERSATION A master class organised by Première Vision Paris dedicated to the new generation of responsible values in fashion and the textile industry. With Caroline Rush and Carlo Capasa.

Fabrics, MEZZANINE, HALL 5, ROOM 520 AB.

#WEAREPREMIEREVISION Tag us - come to the entry to Hall 6 or the north of Hall 4 to personalise the season’s new bag, created in partnership with Eurotextile (Accessories, 4E12).

IS FASHION ECO-FRIENDLY, COMMITTED – IN A WORD, SMART? WHAT’S YOUR WAY OF RESPECTING THE ENVIRONMENT? Mario Riva, Besani “Besani was one of the first companies to take up Greenpeace’s Detox commitment in 2014. As a result we eliminated 11 different dangerous and polluting classes of substances from our sector. At Besani, we believe that sustainability is the result of constant effort and small daily gestures. See for yourself: every three months, we publish a “green” page on our website showing the results of tests measuring the chemical impact of our fabrics.“ Fabrics, 5P9 Markus Schnieder, Union Knopf

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“Sustainability is a societal trend that is of growing interest to people, and becoming more important. We are lucky to have in-house experts, so we can offer our clients customised scientific

expertise, both from the point of view of reducing chemical impact and energy consumption.”

Accessories, 4F5 4G6 Irene Calsamiglia, Dani S.p.A. “For years, reducing energy consumption and environmental impact has been a priority for our research department. In 2015, we launched the Zero Impact project to offset CO2 emissions, which permitted us to develop the first leather elaborated without chrome or heavy metals. Dani is also the first company in the world in its sector to have obtained the Carbon Footprint certification.”

Leather, 3F22 FIND THE PREMIÈRE VISION PARIS SMART LIST AT PREMIEREVISION.COM

HOSTESSES IN RED KNITS A red dress in cotton elastane.

The welcome hostesses at the 6 shows are outfitted by Shima Seiki (Knitwear Solutions, 6KW151) in a convincing demonstration of the Whole Garment technology, celebrating its 20th anniversary.

This knitting machine, for creative and complex seamless knits, is certainly one of the greatest technological revolutions of the twentieth century for the textile industry. The principle: a single yarn feeds the machine to give birth to a sweater, a dress or any

other flatbed knit. With it you can design and make patterns, finishes and stitches in different gauges.

The hostess outfit, designed by Xavier Brisoux in collaboration with Shima’s development studio in Japan, was born of this Whole Garment technology.

AUTUMN WINTER 16-17

GUIDEDTOUROFTHESEASON

PASCALINEWILHELM THE PREMIERE VISION FASHION DIRECTOR TAKES US ON A TOUR OF INSPIRATIONS FOR AUTUMN WINTER 16-17 Elisabeth Kendall sculpts ceramics hovering between art and design. She illustrates a winter season of tangible, supple and densely fine materials. Fabrics

LEATHER FASHION BREAKFAST

Join us at a seminar dedicated to the leather and fur markets.

Daily at 10:30 am. Leather, HALL 3, GOLD PREMIUM LOUNGE

AVAILABLE AT PREMIEREVISION.COM,

the e-Catalog lists all 1,924 exhibitors at the 6 shows and allows a multi-criteria search: by business specialty, product range, production volume... Also learn more about the 154 new exhibitors. www.premièrevision.com

Colour range available at all sales points.

© Maiko Takeda

TODAY: ATTEND THE COLOUR TREND TASTING AND PURCHASE THE DIGITAL COLOUR RANGE For winter 16-17, textiles and accessories flaunt their colours. Printed on fabric and coupled with a digital version, the iconic Première Vision Fabrics and Accessories colour range is now proposed in a higher quality version that can be transferred and downloaded to creative software and colour labs. To expand on all the season’s colour possibilities, a new seminar, held daily, proposes an in-depth reading of the season’s essential directions, with harmonies for each market, and complementary colour uses.

Colour Trend Tasting, Tuesday 15, Wednesday 16 and Thursday 17 September at 12:30 pm. English and French.

Fabrics, MEZZANINE, HALL 5, ROOM 520B

© Luc Jimenez

©Elizabeth Kendall

There’s a subtlety to the look of accessories this season, as can be seen at Maiko Takeda, who projects the shadow of evanescent jewellery onto the body of the wearer. Accessories

CUTTING ACROSS SECTORS The forums bring to light synergies between the products at the different shows. Style Focus joins accessories and fabrics together in style recipes and fashion silhouettes for the men’s, women’s and casualwear markets.

This cross-disciplinary space is the result of a joint effort between the teams at Première Vision Fabrics and Accessories.

Fabrics, HALL 5

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MAKE THIS YOUR EASIEST TRIP YET - DOWNLOAD THE PREMIÈRE VISION PARIS APP. GET COMPLETE SHOW INFORMATION RIGHT AT YOUR FINGERTIPS: LIST OF EXHIBITORS, INSPIRATIONS, EVENTS. THE APP CAN RECORD YOUR NOTES AND GENERATE A COMPLETE VISIT REPORT.

NEWS INTHE

EVERYONE WILL FIND THE SHOE FITS AT THE SHOE FOCUS Because footwear comprises both leather and a sole, Première Vision Accessories has launched Shoe Focus - a new area with its own forum - dedicated to technical components for shoes. It’s a space to connect the specific offer at Première Vision Accessories (heels, welts, soles...) with that of Première Vision Leather (leather, textiles for shoes and accessories...) through the offer

of 24 international exhibitors. The goal? To allow brands to find all the products and suppliers they need to make footwear collections all in one place. The Forum sheds light on technical components, ornamentation and the season’s key leathers, to provide relevant information concerning seasonal trends and trade manufacturing secrets for autumn winter 2016-17.

Accessories, HALL 4 NORTH.

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A SHOW OF COLLABORATION What better proof of the quality of a yarn than a finished product? Première Vision Yarns is initiating multi-specialty collaborations through exclusive developments. For example, discover a tulle produced by Encajes Laquidain (Accessories, 4G24) with a fibre from Nylstar (Yarns, 5L90), and embroidered by Austrian weaver HOH Hoferhecht Stickereiem (Fabrics, 5L5) using a textured polyester yarn from spinner Antex (Yarns, 5L80). Much like this tulle, a number of the season’s new products at Yarns are evoking evanescence, lightness and transparency, running from the yarn up through to the textile.

Yarns, FORUM HALL 5 NORTH

That’s the number of product universes now found at Première Vision Fabrics: Knits, Prints, High Fancy, Silkies, EmbroideriesLaces, Shirting, Tailoring, Upper Jeanswear, Premium Relax, Tech, Linings.

GUIDEDTOUR

PASCALINEWILHELM

An eccentric and offbeat collage of the era by Eugenia Loli evokes winter 16-17 at the textile designers. Designs Radical, somewhat provocative, José Romussi embroiders his messages on photos. A strong-minded and affirmed expression that is also evinced this season. Fabrics

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© José Romussi, Eugenia Loli, Première Vision, RR

The inspirational film at Leather presents amazing new jobs, whether real or imagined, like a vegetable psychologist, a drone choreographer, or a space florist. Leather

A TASTE OF WINTER 16-17, TO ENJOY IN FULL AT THE PREMIĂˆRE VISION PARIS FORUMS

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Harmanli (Leather, 3H81)

02 STRANGE COLLAGES Needle-punched, bonded and drawn hybrids continue to amaze. Leather fuses with cashmere, lambswool combines with wool. Skins and accessories mix up reptiles, furs and precious metalwork. In fabrics, bondings bank on eccentricity, with technical/rustic or silky/cosy contrasts.

In textile designs, patterns are cut and glued to recompose floral motifs, stripes and geometrics.

03 A SOLID HANDFUL A magnanimous firmness comes to the fore...Casual cottons with solid cores are cosy on the surface. Woollens are solid, expressed in dense, pressed and refined felts. Solidity inspires tanners too, with firm handles with warm exteriors cropping up all around. Even the outward solidity of accessories can be deceiving, with XXL buckles and buttons that are in fact light and soft.

04 HIGH-DESIGN RUSTICITY Sleek design inflected with natural aspects and simplicity infuses collections. Accessories unveil modern marquetry work, and smooth engraved woods in labels and buckles. A Scandinavian furniture spirit influences weavers and textile designers. Woollens display a tamed rusticity, while printed patterns, jacquards and guipure reveal a raw and textured geometry.

05 ORNAMENTATION Baroque or folk, decoration plays on ambivalence. This season, indiennes and carpet patterns flirt with each other. Textile designers mix ornamentation drawn from Slavic, Oriental and Nordic folklore. The majestic look of jacquard motifs is amplified by their size, yet tempered by their dark colourways. In leathers and accessories, embossed fantasy evokes a monochromatic baroque look, while buttons are decorated with dark, matt gunsmith designs.

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04 Serikos (Fabrics, 5H9)

Tacchificio Monti (Accessories, 4C51-4D52)

Tessitura di Albizzate (Fabrics, 6D4-6E3)

01 VELVETS AND VELVETIES Shorn piles, generous corduroys, flocked decoration, woolly and cottony velvets, nubucks, suede labels and buttons...a wave of velvety looks unfurls across winter 16-17. Velvets promise rich plains, generous handles, deep colours and voluptuous decorations playing on flockings, chenilles and silky panne velvets.

TECHNOLOGICAL ALLIES As we wait for robots to become our best friends, technology remains a formidable ally, knocking down frontiers between materials and style universes. Calfskin and lamb adopt high-tech finishings that magnify their natural aspects. CAP marries the hand for spontaneous digital designs. Citywear is crossed with elegance in breathablewaterproof gabardine and windproof wool broadcloth.

Knits, embroideries and silks benefit from high-performant glamour. Accessories showcase a futuristic preciousness.

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Lanificio Fratelli Bacci (Fabrics,6K4)

VIEW IN

AUTUMN WINTER 16-17

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FORUMS ARE DEDICATED TO FASHION INFORMATION ACROSS OUR 6 SHOWS

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VIEWPOINTS WITH THE DARING OF COUTURE AND THE TECHNOLOGY OF SNEAKERS, ACCOMPANIED BY DISCREET COMFORT, FOOTWEAR IS DEFINITELY ONE OF A PIECE.

Giuliano Russo, Russo Di Casandrino Leather, 3E91-3F92

Davide Canciani, Vibram

Accessories, SHOE FOCUS, 4E48

LIGHTNESS! THAT’S THE KEY WORD FOR WINTER 16-17 IN MY OPINION. Research lets us develop soles over large volumes, which is the other major trend of the moment. In urban and lifestyle, we’re focusing on grip - on wet ground - and comfort.

For the outdoor market, the product benefit is performance, which spurs us to reinvent ourselves in the fields of grip and traction.

Another field of innovation is our new intelligent sole: it communicates with smartphones and other embedded technologies to interact with the wearer!”

IN FOOTWEAR, OUR MAJOR DEVELOPMENTS INCLUDE NATURAL FINISHES that create an effect of great depth in leathers. The small size of the skins we use lets us play on very fine and precious grains, which are delicate and have a sensuous feel. All in colours with very natural accents.”

OUR FINISHES FOR MEN TEND TO BE SHINIER THAN BEFORE, and there are thicker leathers for men than women.

For women, we always emphasise the suppleness and fineness of smooth and simple skins that the big names have been after for several seasons. But that’s not all! We also have laminated leathers with more matt effects and beaded looks that are more visible than before.”

OUR HEELS COMBINE THE SOPHISTICATION OF STILETTOS WITH THE COMFORT OF A STURDY SHOE. They are square and solid, with straight and clean lines. In terms of materials, we combine wood and stone or wood and methacrylates, working oxidized metals, or flocked and iridescent velvets. And finally, the colours of the season range from black to pastels: there’s something for everyone.”

Gabriel Martinez Richarte, Grup Gamar,

Accessories, SHOE FOCUS, 4D51

OUR PRIORITY? LIGHTNESS AND COMFORT. Without compromising our fashion identity. For footwear, we play on a mix of materials and shine, and we are going all in on colour, especially pastels.”

Lassaad Slama, Soprotic

Manufacturing, 6V12

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Renzo Rosati, Conceria Incas Leather, 3B61-3C62

AUTUMN WINTER 16-17

“CONNECTITUDE IS AN ATTITUDE, A WAY OF BEING AND A DESIRE. IT’S PART OF A PIVOTAL ERA WHERE THE FIRST MARKETABLE PRODUCTS ARE EMERGING ALONGSIDE OF EXPERIMENTAL PROTOTYPES.” Nelly Rodi, General Vice President of R3iLab

“WE’VE NEVER BEEN SO CLOSE TO THE GOAL, BUT THE CHALLENGE REMAINS: HOW TO COMBINE COMFORT, APPEARANCE AND NEW TECHNOLOGICAL FUNCTIONS?” Bernard Cugerone, JRC Reflex (Accessories, 4H35-4I36)

Taggie is the first zip in the world integrating a RFID (Radio Frequency Identification) tag, capable of storing any information about a garment or bag.

Studio Roosegaarde, DR

Lampo-Lanfranchi (Accessories, 4F23)

The Intimacy line of underwear by Studio Roosegaarde modulates its transparency depending on emotions.

FASHION: CHARGEDUP ANDREADY ARE WEARABLE TECHNOLOGIES THE MAGIC BULLET OF THE FASHIONS OF TOMORROW? Whether talking about smart labels or geo-locatable coats, experts and producers are in agreement. “Over the past decade the digital world has revolutionised how we work, but today a new life style is emerging. Connected textiles and fashion are part of a broader current that affects all sectors of daily life,” says Nelly Rodi, general vice president and president for Ile de France of R3iLab. “This is an inevitable, irrevocable and international trend that will move into all LEARN EVEN MORE ABOUT CONNECTED FASHION STARTING TOMORROW AT PREMIEREVISION.COM

garments, from sports to evening dresses and ready-to-wear,” agreed Bernard Cugerone, president of JRC Reflex (Accessories, 4H35-4I36) and program director of “Immediate Futures” at R3iLab. Among the innovative projects selected is TEXtile 3.0 from the Société Choletaise de Fabrication (Accessories, 4E2), which transforms outdoor furniture fabrics into a source of autonomous light.

Fruit of the promising encounter between new technologies and textile know-how, connected fashion promises to revolutionize not only clothing shapes, but also their functions. “Wearable technologies mark the convergence of form and function,” says Maria Vitinidou, head of the Athens Fashion Club.

The proof: the Solar Jacket, designed by the Greek brand, can

R3ILAB: PERSPECTIVES ONTOMORROW’S FASHION

For the past 12 years, this industry association has been supporting innovative projects impacting the entire textile sector, from design to sales strategies. At Première Vision Paris, R3iLab presents a selection of experimental projects that paint a fascinating portrait of tomorrow’s fashion: eclectic, multifunctional, connected. Accessories, 4H12

charge a tablet, while the smart coat developed by Turkish designer Arzu Kaprol changes shape with the seasons. From anti-fraud strategies in the medical and sports domains to interactive and luminescent jewellery, the applications of these new technologies are potentially limitless and give free rein to the imagination of clothing and accessories designers. While Taggie zips and Smart Label tags from Italian companies Lampo-Lanfranchi (Accessories, 4F23) and Dienpi (Accessories, 4G15) ensure clothing traceability, the Intimacy line of underwear designed

by Studio Roosegaarde modulates its transparency depending on emotions. “And what about techno-poetry?” asks Daan Roosegaarde, artist at the creative studio that bears his name.

Not to mention the Easy Touch leather introduced this summer by tanner Pechdo (Leather, 3G50 ), which put its know-how and common sense to play addressing an urgent need from smartphone users: how to use touch screens with gloves? (Leather ones of course!) Connected fashions are a game changer, fundamentally altering the relationship between consumer desire and product development. And as one thing leads to another, alliances between artisanal traditional, cutting-edge insights and technologies will broaden the scope of clothing.

SCENARII 2020 CONFERENCE BY R3ILAB TAKING STOCK OF TOMORROW’S BEHAVIOURS THANKS TO THE TEXTILES OF THE FUTURE. WEDNESDAY, 16 AT 4:30 PM.

Fabrics, MEZZANINE HALL 5, ROOM 520AB

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MY JOB

to success. Obviously this cannot be done only during office hours. This job is 24/7. Yes, the company is an integral part of my life.

I remember waking up one night, at 2 am, with an idea, and having to run to the tannery to test it out!

But I have a secret: patience. That’s what let’s me take a step back, get a change of perspective in order to assess and evaluate events in a new way. And deal more calmly with changes in the business.

Ten years ago, we produced 5 main colours. Today, we offer over 1,500 ... That’s a big leap forward, right?

Today, expectations are enormous. I remember a client who sent five experts to check on the final output of the colour ordered ... just to make a few jackets. We have to stay the course and keep up, and the production manager is the one steering the ship.

DIRECTOROF PRODUCTION Ahmet Ozturk, of the tanner Yesiller Deri, Première Vision Leather (3A61-3B62), and his three indispensable devices.

FIRST YOU HAVE TO LISTEN TO PEOPLE. This seems key in order to successfully coordinate the sales services, the production processes, IS management, the stocks ...

My job is intrinsically linked to all the others. I am at the core of all the planning.

I have an engineering background, but for me, communications and relationships are the keys

MY JOB

ARTISANOFTHESOLE

Marco Poletto, from Suolificio Veneziano, Première Vision Accessories, SHOE FOCUS AREA (4E46) reaching for the moon, which certain clients sometimes ask for...

THE SOLE IS THAT IMPERCEPTIBLE ELEMENT THAT LENDS SOPHISTICATION TO A SHOE. In 1985 (this year marks our 30th anniversary), our company was the first to manufacture pre-finished leather soles, our specialty.

As a student, I started to help my father during summer holidays. I didn’t think I would continue after school ended, but as time passed I became more

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passionate about it. My father passed down his love of his work to me. And he taught me that any profession can be great if you love it and are passionate

about doing it well. Today, I am involved right from the development of samples, in close collaboration with our clients’ style and production directors, and I am meticulous about the quality control of the finished products. Over the years, we have collaborated with well-known luxury and high fashion brands. One of my favourite memories is the first invitation I received for a major fashion show, as a supplier. The result was wonderfully flamboyant thanks to the assembly of many small parts including the sole. Through its investments in new technology, the company can now respond to more diversified demands, always in the field of high-end women’s shoes. But even though we may use highly advanced technologies, my profession still remains quite artisanal.

Director of the publication: Philippe Pasquet/Première Vision: 59, quai Rambaud, 69285 Lyon Cedex 02 - Tel.: 33 (0)4 72 60 65 00 - Fax: 33 (0)4 72 60 65 09 e-mail: info@premierevision.com - Production: TOTEMIS - © Photos: Stéphane Kossmann, François Durand, Richard Bord, Nicolas Rodet, RR FOLLOW ALL THE PREMIÈRE VISION PARIS NEWS AT PREMIEREVISION.COM