Première Vision Daily News - Day 3

Thursday The daily news 17 september 2015

TECHNOLOGY? IT’STHERETOHELPYOU! DIGITAL TOOLS AT ALL STAGES AND ALL STEPS p.6

Responsibility andtransparency: Estar Tekstil / Broche® (Fabrics, 5M4)

the SMART approach starts now P.7

YARNS

New developments and innovations destined to make a difference in yarns. Forum.

Hall 5 North

FABRICS

The Colour Trend Tasting seminar by the Première Vision fashion team.

12:30 pm.

Hall 5, room 520 B

LEATHER

The Leather Fashion Breakfast seminar for leather and fur.

10:30 am. Hall 3, Gold Premium Lounge

DESIGNS

Decorative directions for winter 16-17 through 92 original patterns.

Hall 5, Design Forum

ACCESSORIES

A 3D alphabetical listing, to discover the right know-hows.

Hall 4, Index

MANUFACTURING

The event for fashion manufacturers, to discover the special skills of the 150 exhibitors.

Hall 6 North

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Hosts, hostesses, spotters and other guardian angels watched over us during the 3 days of the show.

FOLLOWING THE HYÈRES FESTIVAL An exhibit of large-format photos accompany 8 silhouettes from the creative and subtle collection by Annelie Schubert, winner of the 2015 Première Vision Grand Jury Prize at the 30th Hyères Fashion Festival.. Manufacturing, Hall 6 North

News Inthe

PUBLIC prize PV Awards Fabrics Leather Public Prize Public Prize Give us your opinion - choose your favourite sample, leather or textile, for winter 16-17. Vote for the PV Awards Public Prize!

SPORTY AND REFINED. CLASSIC BUT FREE... HOW WOULD YOU DEFINE YOUR LINGERIE? Silvia Patta, Carvico “We see a search for a look combining sporty comfort and refined details, particularly among younger customers. Like this light fabric in stretch polyamide, with a very natural hand, and a slightly shiny chiné aspect. We’re also being asked for heavier fabrics (over 200 g), always stretch for maximum comfort, but sometimes even in lined version. This points to more sheathing lingerie, to shape the body like a second skin without constricting it.”

Fabrics, 6E14

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Philippe Hache, Macosa “Welcome to more generous and less minimalist shapes, with higher-cut underpants, and covering fabrics that shape the body while remaining feminine. The return of bodysuits follows this same trend, which also drove the recent rise in one-piece swimsuits.

But the trend is refined, favouring ethereal fabrics and lace on the bra

cup, but also, more surprisingly, on garters broken down in contemporary versions.”

Manufacturing, 6V17 Olivier Chantry, Aj Biais “The common thread running through all the lingerie ribbons we are showing is the search for sophisticated and comfortable details. Like the elastic tulles in the Farandole collections, or polyamide and elastane ribbons, on which we sometimes placed shiny dots. We played with overlays of lace and tulle on satin bases. Our prints with micro-geometric motifs are all part of the same quest for fine elegance, right down to the details.”

Accessories, 4F37- 4G36

YESTERDAY, IN THE PRESENCE OF ROSITA MISSONI, TEXPRINT® AWARDED PRIZES TO NEW TALENTS WORKING IN TEXTILE DESIGN From optic art to Russian Prizes, for the Fashion Award and constructivism and Japan, the The Woolmark Company Prize. “I inspirations of Jessica Leclere wanted to push knits, to make (photo) (Designs, 5Y58) combine them unfurl in space,” she minimalism and creativity in one explained while showing one of her and the same textile vision. The perfectly round knits, structured in talent of this 26 year old designer, navy/white and playing on empty recently graduated from London’s and solid areas, a blur of visual and Royal College of Art, was singled textile illusions. out twice yesterday during the awards ceremony of the Texprint®

autumn winter 16-17

guidedtour

davidhart

The American designer, who is seen in the Première Vision New York ad campaign, reveals his favourites of the season.

This knit by Lanificio Guasti (Fabrics 5P40-5R33) with mohair bouclettes looks like a wool tweed. It’s a nice combination of primary colours, black, yellow and white. Fabrics, Style Focus Hall 6

I noticed these laser cut-outs in plastic like a houndstooth design, glued on to a fabric with a flannel look.

This sample by New and Best (Accessories, 4E23) gives me an urge to update a men’s classic like a jacket.

Accessories, Display, Hall 4

Kuntee Sirikrai

This jewellery designer who makes her home between Bangkok and Copenhagen, made a stop off at Jewel Focus, the fashion information area dedicated to fashion jewellery, with 5 photos and 5 pieces from her collection, for a glimpse of winter 16-17.

Accessories, jewel focus, hall 4 South

SWIMSUITS GET DRESSED There are very fine gauge cottons manufactured on machines previously dedicated to polyamide, laminated fabrics with military units, faux denim, bondings, mesh.

This session Maglificio Ripa (Fabrics, 5N39), a swimsuit specialist, adapts its range to ready-to-wear, playing on the codes and techniques of its primary specialty.

ONE TEAR AND THOUSANDS OF YARNS: DARQUER EMBROIDERS “EMOTIONAL TERRITORIES”

BY ARTIST ROSE-LYNN FISHER Birth, marriage, mourning, eroticism - many of life’s moments are marked by tears, whether of joy or sorrow. “The Darquer message was so clear,” says Rose-Lynn Fisher, an artist whose photographs of microscopic tears were recently exhibited at Paris’s Palais de Tokyo. “The idea of transposing my photograph of a tear onto Calais lace seemed perfectly natural to me. Tears and lace go together with life’s most intimate occasions, both embodying a concept of the present moment and timelessness.”

The unique lace produced by Darquer (Fabrics, 5J1), which has prided itself since 1840 on hiring the best drawers and tulle makers, marks the start of an art collection for the lacemaker.

THE TRESSES AT KNITWEAR Flatbed knits step into a hair salon. With braided stitch-plays, flighty strands, thick fringes...yarns are knit like hairstyles in the forum of the area dedicated to flatbed knits, in the knit designs by Xavier Brisoux and the exhibitors’ own developments.

Knitwear Solutions, Hall 6 south

The French Federation of Lace and Embroideries has established a new label: Dentelle de Calais-Caudry®, a recognition for Leavers laces from the North of France.

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A NEW OCCASION TO SHARE IDEAS, PREMIÈRE VISION LIVE OPENS IN SEOUL THEN SHANGHAI. ON THE AGENDA AT BOTH Fashion BUSINESS BOOSTERS: MASTER CLASSES, SEMINARS AND PRESENTATIONS FOCUSED ON THE CREATIVE PROCESS.

IS YOUR FASHION PRODUCTION SMART? WHAT DO YOU RECYCLE? Giorgio Conterno, E. Miroglio / Miroglio Lana “An attention to sustainability is an implicit value in our company. The Newlife™ project is proof of that.

This polyester yarn is made from plastic bottles collected near the company and transformed by a mechanical process. Made in exclusive collaboration with Sinterama, Newlife&Wool, which makes its official debut today, represents a logical and important development of that project. It’s a yarn that combines recycled

Première Vision Live Seoul, 12-13 october 2015 Première Vision Live Shanghai, 15-16 october 2015

News SEEKING ARTISTIC EXPRESSION Sprayed Pollock style, in drips or in pure abstractions, “hand painted” effects are created in all sectors.

Aisling Duffy (Designs, 5Y8) takes a brush to floral prints for a deliberately offbeat garden. And patterns call for a hand-drawn look: Gentili (Fabrics, 5K21) traces red lines on a blood-red repeatless pattern that seems to spill out of the silky fabric.

For figured coats, the strength of pictorial handwork combines with the generous warmth of mohair, it too broadly brushed, at Marini & Cecconi (Fabrics, 5L42-5M41).

Aisling Duffy (Designs, 5Y8)

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polyester with wool. This close blend makes it possible to obtain the same visual, tactile and functional characteristics of a traditional polyester wool blend.”

Fabrics, 6L10 6M11 Takashi Shimokawa, Asahi Kasei “We are presenting in preview important developments in our RoicaTM range. Roica Eco-Smart for exemple is the first eco-stretch premium yarn certified GRS in the world. Over 50% of it is made from textile waste. The results are good: since it’s commercialisation, this eco-stretch yarn – with both environmentally friendly and elastic features - has caught the eye of the market.” Yarns, 5R91

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:30

The Fabrics Trend Tastings Seminar by the Première Vision fashion team.

Seats for sale at the conference room.

Fabrics, Hall 5, mezzanine, room 520 B

guidedtour

davidhart

What I like about this fabric from Leggiuno (Fabrics, 6H6-6J7), is the fineness of the graphic design traced with a printed yarn, that brings out and hides a windowpane check. For a shirt with an intermittent motif maybe? Fabrics, Tops & Shirts, Hall 5

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Yves Salomon (Leather, 3H40) printed a motif borrowed from a men’s suiting on white female mink. It’s surprising to see something this graphic on a fur. I’d like to combine it in a men’s houndstooth jacket.

Leather, Trend Gallery, hall 3

the

Best 01 Heat wave It’s a tidal wave! The women’s universe is hungering for softness. The most sought-after handles call for softness, warmth, a woolly touch, and cosiness.

There’s nothing restrictive about choices – buyers want puffiness, and enveloping aspects. Velvet is the star of the season, in silk and cotton, in all its versions – sueded or flocked – and teamed with the most surprising decorations, used as print grounds, appliquéd on lace or embroideries, burnt out or laserengraved.

WHAT ARE WOMEN’S BUYERS LOOKING FOR? HERE, THE FIRT INDICATIONS FROM THE AISLES YESTERDAY, FROM THE PREMIÈRE VISION FABRIC SURVEYS.

value in prints: jacquard textures, graininess, handles, irregularities. Their choice of visuals is inseparable from backgrounds and behaviours. Especially for those looking for fantasy with some substance for pants, jackets, skirts etc.

03 Singular assemblages There’s a clear search for personalisation, whether for everyday coats or exceptional silks: the word is on everybody’s lips. Assemblages are perfect for renewing styles. With, obviously, double faces and their multiple plays on fantasy; more bondings, especially in contrasting versions; layers, strata and sandwich fabrics that clash, or motifs crashing into each other.

Ecological: softly but surely Very calmly, the (right) ecological reflexes are finding their place in the weavers’ know-hows, without ever affecting qualities, specificities or creativity.

Water treatment or specific supply controls, recyclable or recycled materials, eco-friendly mercerisings - all companies find the eco-approach that fits. And clients looking out for sustainable developments are truly hungry for them.

04 Omnipresent mattness It’s rare but it happens: matt looks are monopolising choices in the women’s universe. That’s obvious in a velvety season! It’s an hour of glory for all fabrics with deep, light-absorbing colours, starting with mohairs and brushings, and low-key silkies and fancies. There’s always a little room for shiny coatings; lacquered and gummy aspects slip into lace, embroideries and other exceptional decorations.

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Nordtessile (Fabrics, 5H21)

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Coronet (Fabrics, 6F18)

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Mantero (Fabrics, 5H11)

05 No flowers (or very few) Scotch plaids or madras, houndstooths, graphic patches and collages...winter looks to be geometric. The only flowers looked for have a multi-coloured refinement. Visitors are concentrating on graphic workings in soft, filtered or darkened tones.

Toray ( Upperjeanswer, 6D38)

Alibi (Fabrics, 6N14-6P11)

02 Rich print grounds Lots of expectations for decorated looks!

Buyers are looking for a certain added-

autumn winter 16-17

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weavers gave their viewpoints on womenswear for winter 16-17

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viewpoints

Digital tools, already at the heart of cutting and printing in ready-to-wear, are becoming increasingly important in leather and exotic skins: from cathode sputtering of precious metals powder, to scratching skins with a laser, embroideries, etc. I strongly support partnerships between our traditional know-hows and the increasingly technological processes coming from outside domains.”

Far from being forced to make do with new technologies, artisanal companies have embraced them and the freedom they bring. And digital tools even seem to hone creativity.

Digital tools are our guiding thread!

It assists us in our creative process, but it’s not at the origin of it. If everything were a digital process, we’d lose all our poetry. Our team of designers do everything first by hand: they dye yarns, embroider, weave on hand looms. It’s only after this artisanal and artistic approach that the 30 or 60 fabrics we create every day are digitalised, given a bar code than archived on our in-house software. This let’s us communicate in real time, and to gain in our response times, so we can concentrate on creativity. ”

Franck Bouvrain, Cuir de Lagny Leather, 3H44

We create by hand before digitalising our designs, because the client likes the flexibility provided by digitalisation. The tool gives us the freedom to quickly switch colours or the sizes of our motifs. We can move them around, overlap them, etc. It’s a supplement to working by hand. But it can never replace it.”

Katrien Soeffers Designs, 5V51 Eve Corrigan, Malhia Kent Fabrics, 5L14-5M13

With our integrated design team, we develop 90% of our models, both for textile designs and for garments. Our designers use manual and digital tools both, there are no boundaries.

From project to production, technical files to prototypes, digital tools allow us to discuss with our clients, all in very short time frames.”

We have a love affair with technology ... a complete revolution triggered in 1975 when we began digitalising our jacquard patterns. Lace sketches transformed into data so that it can be produced is a huge time saver. But people will always have the final say.”

Laurent Bracq, J. BracqTextiline Fabrics, 5J4

Everything can be programmed: temperatures, baths, wash-outs, de-pigmentations ... But technology isn’t fully effective without the outstanding quality control carried out by our teams.

It’s an indispensable balance.”

Mansoor Bilal, Soorty Enterprises Upper Jeanswear, 6F46

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Hatice Feruzoglu, CU Tekstil Manufacturing, 6X9

autumn winter 16-17

“Today, we are talking about the future. Because sustainable development is the future ...”

Carlo Capasa, President of the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana

“Fashion is an ecosystem that must strengthen the synergy between all sectors, from yarn to finished product, with transparency and responsibility.”

Caroline Rush, Chief Executive of the British Fashion Council

From left to right: Giusy Bettoni, founding president of C.L.A.S.S.; Carlo Capasa, president of the Camera Nazionale della Moda; Caroline Rush, Chief Executive of the British Fashion Council; and Chantal Malingrey, Director of Marketing and Development at Première Vision.

DISCOvER THESMARTFACTS

Ethical, responsible, ingenious: let’s be SMART RESPONSIBILITY AND TRANSPARENCY ARE THE AMBASSADORS OF A NEW GENERATION OF VALUES These will dramatically change production and sales approaches in textiles and fashion. It’s been in the air for a long ago, today it’s a certainty.

As a privileged observer of textile innovation for some 42 years, Première Vision is on the front lines of this process of renewal. Its Smart Creation program proposes both concrete actions and a platform providing both a study tool and a way to communications channel to promote different approaches in the field of responsible creation.

For Première Vision, this program is the expression of a specific stance and a long-term strategy.

Its first undertakings: the “Smart Facts” questionnaire (see box) and the first Smart Conversation Master Class, held yesterday. Many more will follow.

Invited by Première Vision CEO Philippe Pasquet to address the issues facing tomorrow’s fashions were: Carlo Capasa, Italy’s president of the Camera Nazionale della Moda; Caroline Rush, Chief Executive of the British Fashion Council; Chantal Malingrey, Director of Marketing and Development at Première Vision; and Giusy Bettoni, founding president of C.L.A.S.S. All agreed: today, “smart” is synonymous with responsibility.

This is an ethical question emerging from the intersection of supply and demand, but the issue is not

limited to ethics. Transparency and sustainability are also paramount economic and marketing issues.

“According to a 2014 study by Boston Consulting, 13% of shoppers weighed ethical responsibility in their decision making. Two years earlier, only 2% did,” commented Carlo Capasa. “The fashion and textile industry are one and the same system, which the issue of responsibility is currently unifying, from the creative stage to production and the choice of raw materials. The important thing is to showcase innovations and share our knowledge, especially in terms of reducing chemical and environmental impacts.” It is in this vein that in 2012, the Camera della Moda put forward a manifesto for sustainable development. Today this group works in collaboration with ten major Italian brands to put in place common standards

Nearly 150 exhibitors answered the online questionnaire concerning sustainable development sent out

by Première Vision as part of the Première Vision Smart Creation program. The heart of the survey are each company’s “Smart Facts”.

Small everyday gestures and major activities all demonstrate exhibitors’ commitments in terms of sustainable production methods and responsible sourcing. The full list of involved companies can already be found on the Première Vision app.

concerning chemical and energy emissions. For Caroline Rush, “The example of designer Christopher Raeburn demonstrates that responsible creation is a form of excellence that we have to identify, assist and support.”

This first Smart Conversation provided a space for discussion, to consolidate and give a rightful place to values destined to redefine the fashions of tomorrow. It also provided a place to exchange ideas, to confirm a desire for collaboration between the upstream textile sector and the fashion universe. An understanding built on a respect for the environment and people; with responsibility and transparency as standards of quality, but also as powerful drivers of innovation.

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LINENsPINNEr Olivier Guillaume, of safilin, première Vision yarns, (5M80) with his small leather finger protectors, symbolizing the strength of the fibre and the linen industry.

One linen Field is enOuGh TO COnVey The beauTy OF Our indusTry One day for a fashion brand i organised a journey of discovery around linen, from fibre to yarn. do you know what they told me at the end of the visit? “linen, when you don’t know about it, is an enigma. when you learn about it, it’s like a miracle.” and that really describes linen. even just 20 years ago, our

customers consisted entirely of specialists.

Today, linen is everywhere. you can’t open a fashion or decorating catalogue without running into it.

There is a specific stress

involved in our production. linen is a demanding natural fibre. each year, the harvest is a stressful moment. we are at the mercy of the weather, which partly determines the volume and quality of the fibres that we will work in the following months. Our business is extremely complex and technical since, starting from fibres that are all naturally different, our job is to provide a homogenous thread, smoothing out the vagaries of the harvest. after this annual step comes the second round: our textile outlets are closely linked to fashion. but as a spinner, we are at the very start of the chain, making it paramount to anticipate trends, so we can make the best choices as to fibre choices and for stocking products. we have to guess which ones will have the wind in their sails ...

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TEChNICaL dIrECTOr Walter Casarin, of geo embroidery, première Vision Manufacturing (6W13), with his favourite embroidery of this season.

beFOre, i repaired embrOidery maChines. some 15 years ago, i decided to cross over to the other side. as someone who oversees both the technical and creative sides, i start with an idea (which begins in italy) through to its

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development (in Tunisia). i communicate to our designers our technological systems, and my technical experience makes me better able to transpose embroidery ideas to the industrial scale. in this business, the hardest part is to understand what the customer wants. but what’s most gratifying is when the client is delighted with the

result! i remember when an italian fashion house sent me pictures of one of its shows saying, “have a look at your embroideries.” it’s great to feel you are sharing in their success. and when the items sell well, that’s the best! i remember another show, where the order for pants seemed absolutely unthinkable. and yet ... we ramped up our schedule, we worked weekends, we did the impossible. in our business, a calm work pace is a challenge, because stress is the routine. On a day-to-day basis, i am very demanding, perhaps too perfectionist. i’m looking for the highest quality with the shortest production time ... just like my customers.

director of the publication: philippe pasquet/première Vision: 59, quai rambaud, 69285 lyon Cedex 02 - Tel.: 33 (0)4 72 60 65 00 - Fax: 33 (0)4 72 60 65 09 e-mail: info@premierevision.com - production: TOTemis - © photos: r. bord, r. buenerd, F. durand, s. kossmann, Taneka, V. Tanto, dr.

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