TUESDAY TODAY'S NEWS 7 FEBRUARY 2017
IRREGULARITIES
LIVING MATERIAL, EXPRESSED IN FRESHNESS AND IMPERFECTION P.6
WEARABLELAB
Ying Gao, Weareble Lab, hall 5, aisle F-G
TECHNOLOGY, FASHION... THE FUTURE IS UPON IS, AND IT'S RIVETING P.7
YARNS
Review the summer 18 highlights for fibres and yarns for wovens and flatbed knits. Hall 6 North. Yarns & Knitwear Forum
FABRICS
Tour the exhibit by the IFM's Design Postgraduate Program. Hall 6
LEATHER
Explore the new Bag & Shoe area in the Trends Gallery. Hall 3
DESIGNS
Relax and enjoy the Chameleon Bar, which changes its look daily. Hall 5 North
ACCESSORIES
Check out creations by Camille Enrico at her jewellery pop-up store. Hall 4
MANUFACTURING
Go visit the exhibition by Leclaireur dedicated to the theme: "Men by Night". Hall 6
4:30 PM STEP RIGHT INSIDE THE CHROMABOX Chromabox is the season's EXPERIENCEPV. A 360° projection space designed by the Scale collective around the Summer 18 Fabrics colour range, for a collective immersion to overturn your senses and perceptions. Fabrics. HALL 5, BETWEEN AISLES 5N AND 5P.
LATEST
NEWS
LEATHER SMART CONVERSATION Responsible creation in the leather industry is a challenge to be met to maintain sustainable growth. Moderated by Giusy Bettoni, president of C.L.A.S.S. and consultant for Première Vision on sustainable innovation and development. With Mara Fumei (Dani Group), Rossella Ravagli (Gucci) and Francesco Marchi (Euratex). Leather. HALL 3, WORKSHOPS & CONFERENCES AREA.
TOP-BAG
The summer 18 bag (and it's also a top!) is crafted of Tek-Care, a textile from Pastel by Yilmazipek (Fabrics, 5C16-5D15), using FillSens, a variation on Lyocell. Available in 3 colours.
NATURAL MATERIALS AND TECHNOLOGICAL INNOVATIONS: HOW TO COMBINE ARTIFICIAL DETAILS AND RAW EFFECTS? Marla Gonçalves, Tearfil “All vegetable and synthetic fibre combinations - polyester, acrylic, modal, wool, viscose, linen, cotton - are possible in our yarn collection. Our PP Purelon and Tencel yarn even combines the lightness and performance of polypropylene with the naturally breathable qualities of the Lenzing Tencel A100 cellulose fibre.” Yarns, 6G55
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Susi Rinaldi, Astarte “The contrast between real nature and an artificial future is one of the main themes of the entire SS2018 collection. We enrich wood barks, mother-of-pearl and oxidized shells with applications of matt or metallic powder resins, to amplify and magnify the
natural imperfections of the materials with something of a futuristic touch.” Accessories, 4A23-4B24 Roseanna Maria Jiggins, RMJ Studio “I've been working for a while now on techno 3D flowers, as part of which I created a new material called Plasilk, a cross of natural silk with plastic waste. For the next SS2018 season, the studio is working on a collection of motifs that update traditional paisleys with tropical details and really contemporary marbled inks.” Designs, 5U9
HEADS UP, THERE'S LOTS OF MOVING AROUND IN HALL 6 They're the same know-hows, but and shirts at Shirts Up. If you're you'll be seeing them from a looking for denim, head to the whole new perspective. The aisles at Upper Jeanswear. And Manufacturing exhibitors - all cut-sewn knits are all in the Tee's Euro-Mediterranean specialists in & Co. area. Finally, Special Skills fashion manufacturing - have is where to find swimwear, been relocated according to their outerwear accessories and product specialties. This new services. layout is markedly more in tune Manufacturing. HALL 6 NORTH. with buyers' current needs. Six sectors group the manufacturers by their skills. Casualwear, citywear and fluid cuts are found at Softwear. Tailoring, including suits and jackets, are at Suitwear
SPRING SUMMER 18
THE FLAVOURS OF THE SEASON
PASCALINEWILHELM
Left: Crimea by Bolo, 2015 / Image courtesy of Art Represent Right: Ruth van Beek / Untitled (The Arrangement), collage 2012 / Courtesy of the Ravestijn Gallery
THE PREMIÈRE VISION FASHION DIRECTOR REVEALS THE INSPIRATIONS FOR SPRING SUMMER 18 A collage by Ruth Van Beek speaks to us of a special moment for summer 18, where everyday reality meets up with an alternate reality, the imagination. Fabrics
Crimea, a work by artisticduo Bolo, points up the tension between order and chaos, by drawing a boundary line between spontaneous pictorial expression and a flatlytinted pinnacle of calm. Designs
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EVENTS
Federico Albarello (Leather, 3G31-3H32)
Trend Tasting Seminars Tuesday 7 February at 12:30 pm. Fabrics Trend Tasting. Thursday 9 February at 10:30 am. Fabrics Trend Tasting. Wednesday 8 and Thursday 9 February at 12:30 pm. Season Trend Tasting. Tuesday 7 and Wednesday 8 February at 10:30 am. Colour Trend Tasting. HALL 5, ROOM 501-502. BY RESERVATION.
Leather Fashion Breakfast Daily at 10:30 am. HALL 3, WORKSHOPS & CONFERENCES AREA. FREE ENTRY.
Luxury Materials Workshops Tuesday 7 February at 11:30 am. All about leather, a fundamental element of style and creation. Tuesday 7 February at 3:30 pm. Alligator leather: a precious material, a passionate material. Wednesday 8 February at 11:30 am. Decorative techniques that drive creativity. Wednesday 8 February at 3:30 pm. Scaling up artisanal savoir-faire. Thursday 9 February at 11:30 am. Metals and types of treatments. Thursday 9 February at 2 pm. Galvanisation and a close-up on zamac. HALL 3, WORKSHOPS & CONFERENCES AREA. FREE ENTRY.
STEP RIGHT UP, YOU'VE GOT TO FEEL IT TO BELIEVE IT At the very crossroads of casual and chic, sporty and urban, fabrics, leather and accessories grow ever more surprising, especially in their unexpected sensations to the touch. At Metal Bottoni (Accessories, 4E18), the look is lacquered, but the feel is gummy. Their latest brass creations are developed in three phases - varnishing, coating, polishing - to obtain a refined look and a sportswear-like convenience of use all in a single accessory. Gummy hands are also making news at Federico Albarello (Leather, 3G31-3H32). Eel nappa moves away from a familiar slippery texture for a matt, sometimes metallic appearance, while irregularities in its galuchat (fishskin leathers) create myriad graphic motifs. From weights to aspects and handles, Faisa (Fabrics, 5L25) plays with the senses. What we are feeling is not what we're seeing. And vice versa. Thanks to a series of washings to ensure a softened feel and a washed-out look, its indigo macro weaves grow lighter and creamier. And its ultra-fine cotton jacquards grow voluminous, with large placed patterns.
SUPRISESPV At the Jewel Custom Bar discover the CO/CO line by jewellery designer Camille Enrico and get the letter of your choice embroidered. Accessories, HALL 4. With les Cireurs, get back the patina of your shoes. Accessories, HALL 4. At the Me Magnet studio, get your own magnetbacked portrait. Designs, HALL 5, FACING STANDS 5V84-5W85. 11AM - 5PM.
At the Nail Bar, paint your nails in the colours of the season. Knitwear Solutions, HALL 6. 11AM - 4PM. At the Photocall, strike a pose backed by sets from the latest Première Vision Paris ad campaign. Fabrics, HALL 6 ENTRY.
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ARE YOU AWARE OF THE REVIVAL OF PROXIMITY SOURCING? YOU'LL LEARN MORE AT THE CONFERENCE BY GILDAS MINVIELLE, DIRECTOR OF THE IFM ECONOMIC OBSERVATORY. WITH SPECIAL GUEST KARIM TAZI, PRESIDENT OF AMITH (MOROCCO). Tuesday 7 and Thursday 9 February. 2:30 pm. Manufacturing, HALL 5, ROOM 501.
LATEST
NEWS
OCEAN CLEAN-UP, APPLE SCRAPS AND COTTON WASTE: NOVEL RECYCLINGS, FROM YARNS TO ACCESSORIES At Seaqual4U (Upper Jeanswear, 6E25), recycling is a philosophy in its own right. The label joins three partners - Antex (Yarns, 6E25), Textil Santanderina (Fabrics, 6D10/6E9) and Ecoalf - around a joint textile production project based on the recovery of plastic waste collected in the oceans by local fishermen. The polymer resulting from the recycling process and perfected by Seaqual4U allows for the production of an unlimited
Sukumo Leather Horii (Maison d’Exceptions)
27 EXCEPTIONAL ARTISANS Whether specialising in artisanal embroidery, embossed leather, or laser-cut outs, all the artisans here showcase unique know-hows. Their techniques range from traditional to innovative, worked on textiles, leathers or accessories. Altogether 27 artisans are at the show, including 10 exhibiting for the first time, such as Sukumo Leather Horii, from the Awa district near Kyoto. This workshop extracts natural indigo dyes for colouring skins. The indigo leaves are harvested by hand, dried and fermented according to a Japanese method used for nearly 600 years. Materials from calf to crocodile are dyed by hand until an infinite range of blues in subtle nuances is obtained. Maison d’Exceptions. HALL 3. SHUTTLE AT THE BOTTOM OF THE CLUB PLATINUM STAIRS, HALL 6. BY ACCREDITATION.
range of high-performant, hydrophobic and resistant yarns and fabrics. Recycling impacts all sectors. Redmark (Accessories, 4F07) has taken in interest in the remains of apples and grains to make their labels. And to complete the picture, Marchi & Fildi (Yarns, 6E52) provides a new life for predyed cotton scraps. The resulting eco-smart cotton yarn Ecotec© boasts a production process with record water (-77.9%) and energy (-56.6%) savings. For its part, Asahi Kasei Corporation (Yarns, 6D58/6E59) continues successfully developing its GRS-certified Roica™ premium stretch fibre.
ENSAD X LEATHER ACCESSORY PRIZE
The creativity of students at the École Nationale Supérieure des Arts Décoratifs (2016 graduates), backed by the excellence of established artisans. Leather showcases budding talents, with an exhibition and prize to boost their visibility. Award ceremony 1:30 - 2 pm Tuesday 7 February. Leather. HALL 3, WORKSHOPS & CONFERENCES AREA.
THEFLAVOURSOFTHESEASON (CONT.FROMPAGE3) Painter Romain Bernini exudes tropical influences with a spontaneous and contemporary energy, free of any exotic nostalgia. Fabrics
Two worlds: one calm and fluid on the surface, the other deep and mysterious. This colourful fin opens a vibrating gap between the two. Leather A breath of freshness in the recycled cardboard seats by Luisa Kahlfeldt with deceptively approximate cut-outs and sensitive imperfections. Accessories
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Left: R.R. Top right: © Romain Bernini, courtesy Galerie Suzanne Tarasieve, Paris Bottom right: © Luisa Kahlfeldt
PASCALINEWILHELM
A STORY WITHIN A STORY At first glance, everything is obvious, simply appealing. And we could just stop there. But if we linger, take a moment for a second reading, we can enjoy an extra layer of delight. Marvel at these handles, which take apart preconceived ideas, at these fabrics at once so voluminous and light. And cheer on all these seemingly familiar aspects that colour gives new life to - from watercolour patterns with artificial tones, to energetic checks, to resins and plastics infused with brights, to a leather with an electric intensity.
THE SPRING SUMMER 18 NEWS, TO FULLY SAVOUR IN THE PREMIĂˆRE VISION PARIS FORUMS.
01 AIR FLOWS The season is born under an air sign. The motifs in patterns are spaced out. Openwork plays move into decoration, into cut-yarn jacquards, with enlarged eyelet embroidery or laces with wide nets. Ribbons flirt with fishnet, buttons grow translucent. Laser procedures and sophisticated perforations open leather to the four winds. Materials are refined and lightened to the verge of transparency.
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Jose Perez Hernandez (Leather, 3F40) Fukui Tateami (Fabrics, 6H15)
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Ensell & Hall (Designs, 5W25)
Les Ateliers Tamalet (Accessories, 4D09)
02 OUTWARD SIGNS OF NATURE Natural materials remain an inexhaustible source of inspiration. The obsession of summer 18 is to transform rusticity, sophisticate it, use it as an element of enrichment. The irregularity of linen, the imperfection of a skin, the veining of wood, provide modified references, refined by synthetic or artificial mixtures. Ultimately,
resolutely modern fabrics and accessories are imbued with their own history. Scientific-futuristic expressions give new life to motifs inspired by the plant world. 03 EXTREME HANDLES Summer 18 will be dry. Handles are expressive, striking in their ultra-dry sensations. Leathers and skins are dehydrated. Suitings are very fine and very springy, linens amplify their vegetal feel, and synthetics and cotton take on a papery feel. Sanded finishings cover metal components, buckles, buttons and rings; labels have plaster coatings; and linen or jute ribbons grow almost rough. 04 CONTEMPORARY TRIBAL A tribal spirit moves into the city. Folklore and crafts bring their primitive and sincere energy to streetwear and citywear. The proclaimed goal: to move away from formats and standardization. Urban sports cosies up to embroidery and handmadestyle wovens. Technical fabrics incorporate tie-dye and ikat. Buckles and zips mimic amulets. Leathers anchor their fantasy in the primitive arts. Ethnic inspiration is
projected into the future by contemporary materials and graphic treatments, for a new urban exoticism. 05 DELIBERATE ACCIDENTS It's impossible to miss the "freshly lived-in" effects of summer 18. Stones, resins and buttons are delicately cracked. Skins are expertly scratched. Yarns adroitly unravel. From silky jacquards to jeanswear, decorative lacerations multiply. The patterns are blurred and delicately eroded. Refined imperfection and cultivated randomness become distinctive elements of fantasy.
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Europa (Fabrics, 6D12-6E11)
VIEW IN
SPRING SUMMER 18
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FORUMS DEDICATED TO FASHION INFORMATION ACROSS ALL 6 SHOWS
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VIEWPOINTS
AN IRREGULAR DENIM IS CRAZY LOOKABOUT TO TEXTURES DECORATIVE is subtly WEAR. expressed Marblings, on shiny whiskers, fabrics with coatings, yarns thatluminous are both burnt-out resinsand andprinted. paint spots We are betting marvellously on naturals, simulate either in the fancynatural versions wear or those of a rough with eco-fibres. or silkyWe fabric. make Laser the most of the duplicates imperfectthese aspect effects, of fibres from through colour cotton, gradations tencel and linen on through blendstothat extreme lend an ” prints.” artisanal abrasions. look to
THE VITALITY OF IRREGULARITY, THE FRESHNESS OF IMPERFECTION... HOW DO YOU EXPRESS THE LIFE IN MATERIALS?
Steven Thompson, Sunteks,
Fabrics, 5E52-5F51
SINCE 1778, WE'VE SPOTLIGHTED THE NATURAL IRREGULARITY OF LINEN. Because of its mechanical production method, the yarn is randomly and naturally slubbed. The plant matures in a soil fed by rain, sunshine and slight variations in temperature. Each linen yarn is the expression of certain climatic conditions and agricultural methods. Its fibre is linked to a terroir, a human activity, to life. The subtle blend of different crops, each adding its own colours, rusticity and fineness, really brings out the singularity of the yarns. Linen's natural and Bruno Tatti, Safilin, raw appeal, along with its ecoYarns, 6F51 qualities, makes it very attractive to our clients.”
UPSETTING THE TRADITIONAL, INJECTING IT WITH SURPRISE, IS APPEALING. Our clients appreciate the beauty of the hand-made, and irregularities sublimated by a mastery of drawing and painting. Imperfections lend a personal touch to our digital prints. By playing on layers, our traditional botanical motifs are transformed into geometric abstracts. The juxtaposition of textures and smooth effects really surprises our clients.”
Nicola Malcomson, Pattern Textiles,
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Designs, 5V14
LEATHER VAUNTS ITS PAST. The more the skin is wrinkled, the more it has an imaginative resonance. It's drummed to bring out its wrinkles. We apply a black finishing and anthracites so as to unmask and reveal colour with aged effects. Scars and imperfections are magnified by a vintage rendering that is very popular. Life can't be duplicated, it celebrates singularity.”
Gregory Meiler, Rial 1957,
Leather, 3E51-3F52
TODAY YOU HAVE TO BE DIFFERENT. One of our ideas to bring natural materials to life was to liven them up with surfaces embroidered in natural elements, like river shells, braided raw cords, tiny transparent stones. A perfect alliance celebrating water and earth - life!”
Claudio Bellodi, Simona B,
Accessories, 4G20
DENIM IS CRAZY ABOUT DECORATIVE WEAR. Marblings, whiskers, coatings, luminous resins and paint spots marvellously simulate the natural wear of a rough or silky fabric. Laser duplicates these effects, from colour gradations on through to extreme abrasions.” Renald Lelu, Rm Confection / Mosaic,
Manufacturing, 6X8
SPRING SUMMER 18
“OUR VISITORS COME MAINLY FROM THE FASHION AND TEXTILE INDUSTRIES AND TO ME THEY ARE PEOPLE LOOKING FOR AN EMOTION. SO YOU HAVE TO PROVIDE STIMULI, CREATIVE SPACES AND NEW DOMAINS OF THOUGHT.” Gilles Lasbordes, General Manager of Première Vision SA.
“INNOVATION MEANS AN "INTELLIGENT TEXTILE". INTELLIGENT DOES NOT NECESSARILY MEAN THAT IT IS A CONNECTED FABRIC. IT'S NO LONGER ABOUT DRESSING TO DRESS, BUT TAKING ADVANTAGE OF CLOTHES TO CREATE ADDED-VALUE.” Quentin Perraudeau, co-founder of French startup Percko.
PROGRAM
• Startup Showroom Digitsole, Percko, Spinali Design, Teiimo.
Sarah Angold
Anouk Wipprecht © Allan Amato
• Designers Exhibition Sarah Angold, Ezra+Tuba, Ying Gao, Nervous System, Pierre Renaux, Clara Daguin, Anouk Wipprecht.
WEARABLE LAB AND FASHION TECH THE CHALLENGE OF THIS NEW SPACE IS TO SEE HOW ART, TECHNOLOGY AND CREATIVITY CAN REFLECT CONTEMPORARY SOCIETY. This is how Anne-Sophie Bérard, invited by Première Vision to serve as program curator, sums up the Wearable Lab. With its focus on fashion and its reflective approach to the industry and materials, INSPIRATION, INNOVATION, AND VISION TO RELAY THE IMPACT OF TECH ON FASHION
Première Vision has long sought to examine the impact of technology on fabrics and fashion. "It was logical to connect the show to technology. This is a proactive, forward-looking and above all open approach," says Gilles Lasbordes, general manager of Première Vision SA. The program is divided into three sections that reflect the goals of the Wearable Lab. An artistic exhibition of five dresses and four accessories - sophisticated and dreamy, all percolating energy engages visitors in the experimentation and inspiration behind the Fashiontech scene. The challenges of innovation are explored in the showroom, with four startups highlighted this season. Here you can discover a tee-shirt to adjust and track an evolving back
pain (Percko) and a connected shoe by Digitsole to optimize your jogging. "Young companies are taking on key fashion and technology issues in order to make marketable products. This twin vision, an eye on both creativity and the market, is very specific to the show." The subject is fully articulated in a forward-looking conference: "Fashiontech, future scene or utopia?" In this young and growing field, five experts take the floor to discuss the brakes and drivers of this market of the future. Coming from very different backgrounds, the speakers (see above) lend a human face to the project, focusing on uses, which is a central concern of the show and its visitors. "It's a unique opportunity to use Première Vision as a platform for
• Conference: Fashiontech, future scene or utopia? Moderated by Noémie Balmat Clausette (cc) With Christine Browaeys (T3nel), Pascal Denizart (Ceti), Hilary McGuinness (Intel), Nelly Rodi (R3iLab), Anouk Wipprecht (designer). Wednesday 8 February. 3:30 pm. HALL 5, ROOM 501
discussion," pointed out Gilles Lasbordes. And he noted encouraging signs. "Major companies like Google or Intel, and brands like Adidas or Ralph Lauren have really taken this field and run with it. We know that these companies are primarily aimed at profitability, so the fact that they are investing here strengthens the idea that we're exploring a field with roots and relevance." More broadly, if we look beyond fashion to society as a whole, technology brings about profound and lasting changes and can augment skills, approaches and attitudes.
WEARABLE LAB.
Fabrics, HALL 5, AISLE F-G
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MY JOB
VISIONARY PURCHASING
Andrea Gorrone, Extreme Sourcing at Seab, Première Vision Accessories (4G12) and his quite symbolic globe.
CURIOSITY HUMILITY DETERMINATION. This is what you need to face the other trio: globalization, relocation, competition. At Seab, we have been making labels, generally woven ones, for the past 30 years. My mission is to bring our industrial and craftsman partners to a level
of excellence, by relying on their initial know-how and by adapting their methods to the needs of fashion. I have been searching all my life to create a network of people and their activities. I am proud to have gathered at the same table, in the incredibly symbolic city of Istanbul and in a wonderful demonstration of fair play, our partners from Bangladesh, China, Spain, France, Great
Britain, Greece, India, Italy, Japan, Pakistan and Turkey. Traveling as I did, especially in the Far East, really opened my eyes to the world's many cultures and ways of doing things. I have established relationships well beyond simple business relationships. I've been to weddings and seen children born. I've learned that what we aren't capable of understanding is often what is most rewarding. Standards of living are very low in the countries of some of our suppliers. We don't want to close our eyes to this. We take care to meet a standard that's generally higher than average in these countries. We do everything possible to have a positive impact on how our workers live. Now I have to transmit my experience to my colleagues, including my son. I have a guru-visionary side. It's age, undoubtedly. Some people like me, some people just put up with me.
MY JOB
DRAWING BYHAND
Pablo Piatti, Première Vision Designs (5V72) and his omnipresent brushes.
YOU HAVE TO HAVE A LOT OF EMPATHY. A few months ago, a client asked me, out of nowhere, to quickly draw some prints for his summer collection. We spent an entire afternoon together, to look at my visuals, and mostly to talk. I started drawing the minute he left, without waiting. I put right down on paper what he had in mind, his vision.
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Shapes and colours - it was if my hands were translating his thoughts. The prints I drew went right out to the factory. Sometimes I can guess which drawing will be chosen by which buyer. It's as if I could already feel what they wanted. I work a lot on special order. Fifteen years
ago at the show, people were queuing up in front of the stands, the prints were just grabbed up. Today clients buy in another way, they're more thoughtful. It's as if we are part of their company, but we're still independent. Sometimes I have presented drawings thinking the client would probably buy one or two. And in the end the entire collection was based on my work. A collection often starts with a strong visual. From there, designers develop their models, colour variations, etc. A nice print gives a strong sales boost. The silhouette with the key print of the season is going to go on the cover of the catalog, to proclaim its difference.
Director of the publication: Philippe Pasquet/ Première Vision: 59, quai Rambaud, 69285 Lyon Cedex 02 – Tel: 33(0)4 72 60 65 00 – Fax: 33 (0)4 72 60 65 09. Email: info @premierevision.com – Production: TOTEMIS - © Photos: S.Kossmann, B. Nottoli, Agence Polyphème, C. Gravelat FOLLOW ALL THE PREMIÈRE VISION PARIS NEWS AT PREMIEREVISION.COM #WEAREPREMIEREVISION