WEDNESDAY TODAY'S NEWS 8 FEBRUARY 2017
LIGHTNESS
The London Embroidery Studio (Maison d'Exceptions, Hall 3)
AIR INFUSES MATERIALS WITH BALANCE AND HARMONY P.6
FASHIONCALENDAR
INTER-SEASON COLLECTIONS SUCCESSFULLY REWRITE FASHION CALENDARS P.7
YARNS
Meet fibre and yarns specialists for wovens and flatbed knits. Hall 6 North
FABRICS
Tour the Chromabox art installation, an ExpériencePV. Hall 5 aisles 5N and 5P
LEATHER
Sit in on the roundtable on know-how by the Conseil National du Cuir. 2 pm. Hall 3
DESIGNS
Soak up the summer 18 decoration directions. Designs Forum Hall 5 North
ACCESSORIES
Stop by our 'Cireurs' and give a new shine to your shoes. Hall 4
MANUFACTURING
Discover the new layout by activity sector at the fashion manufacturers. Hall 6
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:30 PM
FEEL THE PULL OF THIS SURPRISEPV To kick back in colour, stop by the "Me Magnet" studio. In just a few minutes you'll walk out with your own silhouetted portrait on a badge or magnet. Designs. HALL 5 NORTH, FACING STANDS 5V84-5W85. 11 AM TO 5 PM.
LATEST
NEWS
FASHIONTECH, FUTURE SCENE OR UTOPIA? A Wearable Lab conference to pinpoint the new issues driving Fashion & Technology. With Pascal Denizart, Centre Européen des Textiles Innovants; Anouk Wipprecht, designer; Christine Browaeys, T3nel; Nelly Rodi, R3ilab; Hilary McGuinness, Intel. Moderator, Noémie Balmat, Clausette cc. Fabrics. HALL 5 ROOM 501. IN ENGLISH. FREE ENTRY, SPACE IS LIMITED.
LUXURY MATERIALS
WORKSHOPS
Gain a full understanding of materials for shoes and leathergoods. Wednesday 8 Feb. at 11:30 am. Decorative techniques that drive creativity. Wednesday 8 Feb. at 3:30 pm. Scaling up artisanal savoir-faire. Leather. HALL 3 WORKSHOPS & CONFERENCES AREA. FREE ENTRY, SPACE IS LIMITED.
HOW ARE THE FONCTIONALITIES OF PERFORMANT YARNS AND FABRICS CONNECTED TO FASHION REALITIES? Gian Marco Schiatti, Frizza “We have updated technical fabrics for outerwear with pop prints and mesh linings that inject a touch of fantasy. For example, we have a lightweight polyester fabric, a bit like a K-way, that's printed on the inside so that the motifs appear in filigree on the exterior, through the netting.” Fabrics, 6G22
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Leslie Chen, Kingwhale Corporation “Our polar and thermal knits come in plain or fancy versions, which makes them adaptable to both the sports market and the urban fashion market. Sustainable-fabric innovation is also a key focus of our research, especially with our AlloFibersTM high-performance and ecofriendly fabrics derived using our low-impact production technique, L.I.T. ®.” Fabrics, 6H17
Maria Zorec, Predilnica Litija “Performance also has to improve everyday life. Our yarns incorporate Cell Solution Skin Care, enriched with vitamin E. This adds antibacterial properties to their antistatic, flame retardant and thermoregulatory properties." Yarns, 6F56 Fiona Hung, YGM Technology “Reflective fabrics were once used almost exclusively for safety clothing, yet for us they've become a style ingredient in their own right. Whether in terms of motifs or reflection coefficient, our entire collection of polyester and polyesterelastane fabrics can be fully customised. These lightweight and supple all-terrain fabrics reveal their hidden depths at night." Fabrics, 6F22
GIVING A NEW INTERPRETATION TO MEN BY NIGHT BY LECLAIREUR X PREMIÈRE VISION There aren't factories and manufacturers in one corner, and studios and designers in the other. There are meetings between them. Encounters between stunningly creative fabrics and inventors of astonishing silhouettes. To prove the power of this creative junction, Première Vision Paris continues its collaboration with the leclaireur brand. The theme this time: Men by Night. The dark monochromatic silhouettes pay tribute to the wild fantasy of menswear deeply borrowing from
the feminine universe. The cut-yarn and torn effects herald a deceptively wild and truly sophisticated menswear, with equal appreciation for the subtlety of small jacquards and the skilful, deliberate deconstruction of the codes that traditionally lend structure to menswear. These unique pieces are exhibited at Manufacturing before moving to leclaireur during the Paris fashion week and being put on sale in limited editions. Manufacturing. HALL 6, EVENT AREA
SPRING SUMMER 18
THE FLAVOURS OF THE SEASON
BYNELLIEPARTOW THE NEW YORK DESIGNER FAMED FOR HER SUMPTUOUS FABRICS AND CLEAN LINES TAKES US ON A TOUR OF THE FORUMS TO VISIT SOME OF HER FAVOURITES.
I especially like this deep blue sample from Toray International (Fabrics, 6C16). Its dry papery handle and shine give volume to the firm cotton and nylon fabric, which is very lightweight and has a very natural feel. Fabrics, THE FORUM, HALL 6
What attracted me to this motif by New Age – My Design (Designs, 5V52- 5W55), was how saturated the colours are. Watercolour effects are very in the air right now, and they let you create this special chromatic intensity. Designs Forum, HALL 5
MOOD
OF SPORT Sport is glamorous. A demonstration by comON around a ping-pong table (and you can play too…) Fabrics, HALL 6, STAND 6G35
QUITE SIMPLY CHIC Whether deceptively obvious or in narrative configurations, simplicity is emerging as a new standard of elegance. The patterns from Katrien Soeffers (Designs, 5V74) combine abstracts and plant illustrations for a fresh and multi-coloured effect, while those by Marie Wagner (Designs, 5U87) draw on paper cut-outs for motifs favouring pastel tones and elegant lines. Paris design studio Lilica (Designs, 5U89) plays with silhouettes and multiplied effects for its realistic and highly graphic visual illusions. Simplified patterns go naturally hand in hand with updated colour palettes: for example, patterns are two-toned at Dutel (Fabrics, 5G4-5H3), with yarn-dyed figureds and narrative jacquards creating a fascinating tension between line and colour. Simple, pareddown, stylish: in a word, chic.
Digitsole
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The new Imprima holding company brings together two companies KBC (Fabrics, 5B22-5C25) from Germany and Guarisco (Fabrics, 5E26-5F25) from Italy - to form a multinational group entirely dedicated to textile finishing innovations. “These are two cornerstones of the sector,” said Paolo Gramaglia, co-CEO of Imprima along with Chiaretto Calò. "A company with more than two and a half centuries of history together with a young family business that offers a very reactive approach to fashion.”
Lilica (Designs, 5U89)
HOLDING DEVOTED TO FINISHINGS
FOCUS ON FASHION TECH A new creative and business sphere is emerging at the crossroads of fashion and technology. The Wearable Lab offers you 3 ways to explore the new world of Fashion Tech: An exhibit of 10 experimental and inspiring works, a showroom presenting 4 startups and their latest innovations who propose genuine partnerships for the future, and a conference dedicated to: 'Fashiontech, future scene or utopia?' with input from five pf the subject's experts. Fabrics. EXHIBIT AND SHOWROOM HALL 5 NORTH AISLES F AND G. CONFERENCE: WEDNESDAY 8 FEB. AT 3:30 PM. HALL 5, ROOM 501
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Olaf Kölling, general manager of Color Digital
LATEST
NEWS
SUSTAINABLE PROCESSES ARE SLOWLY BUT SURELY EVOLVING IN FINISHINGS, BRINGING ENVIRONMENTAL AWARENESS TO THE FINAL STAGES OF TEXTILE DEVELOPMENT. At Conceria Nuti Ivo (Leather, chrome-free lambskin has been a key material for the past four years. This season, for the first time, these supple and light skins are enriched with customisable digitally printed fantasy, to give a Pop touch right down to shoe linings. On the weavers' side, Waltex Tricot Manufacture (Fabrics, 5P33) turns to Italian companies with high ecological standards for 3I1),
A SUMMER VIBRATING WITH COLOUR An aquatic vibration ripples through the fabrics, leathers and accessories, a nuance as delicate as it is moving. At Abip (Leather, 3E79-3F80), serigraphy lends this imperceptible movement to the leather motifs: herringbones, stripes and zebra stripes, all broken down in blurred multi-colour. Arno Dufour (Designs, 5VB7) chooses watercolour to soften the most "street" motifs like basketballs and vintage sneakers, while Mion (Accessories, 4G24) develops a line of H20 labels combining a polyester fabric coloured with a transparent netting, for a luminescent and wavy effect.
its silicon finishings, which lend fabrics a fresh and slippery handle. With its mastery of the entire textile chain. Utexbel (Fabrics, 6G11) has been betting on sustainable production for quite a while now. Respect for materials at this company is obvious not only in its ecological mechanical processes and nonnoxious dyes, but also in the use of finishings that amplify the quality of textiles. This is seen in their 100% cotton micro-sanded fabrics, whose silky handle is a result of both quality raw materials and the weaver's know-how.
MAISON D’EXCEPTIONS Abip (Leather, 3E79-3F80)
“GONE ARE THE ROUND-TRIPS BETWEEN DYEING FACTORIES, PRINTERS AND DESIGN STUDIOS FOR A COLOUR SAMPLE. OVER THE PAST 12 YEARS WE'VE PERFECTED COLOR DIGITAL GMBH AND THE DMIX CLOUD SOLUTION, SO YOU CAN USE THE SUMMER 18 PREMIÈRE VISION FABRIC COLOURS IN THE MEDIUM OF YOUR CHOICE.”
To discover these rare and little-known know-hows, hop on the shuttle that stops regularly at the foot of the stairs to the Club Platinum, in Hall 6. HALL 3. ACCESS BY ACCREDITATION
THEFLAVOURSOFTHESEASON(CONT.FROMPAGE3)
BYNELLIEPARTOW
This tubular knit combines two yarns, one from E. Miroglio EAD (Yarns, 6F50) and another from Kapfil Tekstil (Yarns, 6E54) in a double jacquard designed by the Sophie Steller studio (Designs, 5V25). I love its twin personality – natural on one side and slightly metallic on the other. And I like the rhythm that the architectural motifs give it. Yarns & Knitwear Forum, HALL 6
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I really like this fabric by Bonotto (Fabrics, 6M8-6N9) because of its silky handle and the way it plays on warm tones. From far away it looks like a thick fabric with a lot of volume, while in reality it’s quite supple and transparent. It’s a nice mix of modernity with an artisanal aspect. Fabrics, THE FORUM HALL 6
01 NEW LINEN Rustic, linen? Not any more. Linen is now sought for its clean and sophisticated side, and rightly so. In summer 18, the men's market is going to be dressed head to toe in linen. This domination is spurred by an industry development: linen now blends with wool and cotton without losing any of its fineness and lightness. Another key factor: its energy, its unexpected springiness - a bit more city than country. And its eco-friendly reputation is a big pleaser.
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Holland & Sherry (Fabrics, 6P14) Zen Kiwami by Stylem (Fabrics, 5K32-5L29)
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Tessuti & Tessuti (Fabrics, 5M30)
Wagdy Moamen (Fabrics, 6L3)
02 INVISIBLE POWERS Buyers want "more", meaning addedvalue, performance. But which? This season, stretch comes in first place in requests for woollen compositions - but natural, discreet stretch, for comfortable everyday wear. Everything that makes it easy to move in shirtings and suitings finds
WHAT ARE MENSWEAR BUYERS LOOKING FOR? HERE, EARLY INDICATIONS FROM THE PREMIĂˆRE FABRICS SURVEY CONDUCTED YESTERDAY IN THE AISLES.
favour: wrinkleproof, no-iron fabrics... And that's still not enough. You need to be 'green' to really please. Buyers are vigilant, demanding eco-friendly finishings, recycled fibres, especially in wools and polyester, and certified eco-responsible industrial processes. 03 FRESH BREEZE Transparency is making a real breakthrough in the men's tailored market. Choices went to wool gauzes, open weaves, and visuals that remain serious nonetheless. For airy, naturally breathable jackets for high summer temps. 04 PAPERY HANDLE It's crunchy in the aisles - and no one can resist these firmly-set fabrics, nice and dense yet featherweight, mixing lightness
and substance. A papery feel is also looked for in gummy or resin coatings, and intentionally synthetic handles. It's the triumph of dryness, especially for jackets and coats. 05 TINY WAVELETS Menswear wants to shiver, tremble, quiver... buyers are looking for lively handles. In shirts and suitings, seersuckers dominate choices, in mini, imperceptible versions. The idea isn't to see them, but to feel them under your fingertips. Like tiny plays on weaves or imitation knits, they lend a graininess to patterns. Also, imperfections in yarns and small bouclĂŠs, much-liked for their added personality.
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SOFT AND CHARMING Summer 18 is going to be charming. The colours chosen for the men's universe are soft, not averse to pastel or bright accents, yet favouring halftones, subtle tone-on-tones, and semi-plains. Fantasy is everywhere. And selections are infused with delicacy: floral over-printings, tiny spaced-out dots, mini cut-yarns.
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Sefita (Fabrics, 6N21)
BEST THE
SPRING SUMMER 18
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WEAVERS CONTRIBUTED THEIR VIEWS ON MENSWEAR FOR SPRING SUMMER 18.
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VIEWPOINTS
WE ARE SHOWING AN ALUMINUM, FEATHERWEIGHT ZIP IN LARGE WIDTHS, which meets the needs of the leather goods and luggage markets. Another novelty is a plastic injected zip, the slim Vislon. Its very fine mesh marries to the shape of delicate fabrics for new textile explorations. Today, customers are gaining a high quality perception of a product with no weight. Lightness, quality and luxury go hand in hand. The market is ripe for it.”
LIGHTNESS FOLLOWS THE BODY TO ATTAIN BALANCE AND HARMONY. HOW TO INFUSE AIR INTO MATERIALS?
OUR COLLECTION OF MESH BLAZERS ARE LIGHT in both their weaves and in how you experience the garment. This collection of airy and sophisticated fabrics is right in line with the history of Clissold, which has just celebrated its 180th anniversary. Mesh weave is a new 100% wool double-weave fabric. It has many virtues: despite its weight (280 g), it breathes and expresses several shades of colour, all without wrinkling. It doesn't matter if you ball it up: it will find its perfect drape again. This is easy-to-wear luxury. It's destined to become an essential part of our company.”
Christelle Malot, YKK,
Accessories, 4D37- 4E36
OUR CLIENTS INSIST ON FAIRLY LIGHT FLUID CUTS. I think it's a time for refined purity decorated with couture details and plays on transparencies, like pleated, beaded, embroidered or lace-encrusted silk voiles. Lightness that is deliberately precious. Jacques Larroye, Trebien / Labentex,
Manufacturing, 6X21
THE LIGHTNESS OF OUR NATURAL LAMBSKINS is expressed as much by a minimum weight of 0.3 (30 grams) as by airy prints in pastel colours. We sought to reproduce the density of a scarf. That's where we got the effect of a floating texture, ideal for fashioning blouses. But it is a resistant lightness: the skin does not tear.”
Nicolas Guilbaud, Clissold,
Fabrics, 6P14
Serena Priore, Pellican,
Leather, 3E41
Briagell Perret,
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Designs, 5V81
FOR ME, LIGHTNESS IS A SEARCH FOR THE ESSENTIAL, with a minimum of colors and a minimum of graphics needed to create a feeling of joy. Iconics turn into sleek, playful fabrics - a canvas for the imagination. The lightness of animal, plant or abstract subjects flourishes thanks to a highlighted background. More than pattern, I explore the shapes and harmonies of colors and the balance between motifs and fabric grounds.”
IN OUR PRODUCTS, THE NATURE OF THE AIR impacts the density of the textile. Our new fibre, Ventcool, reacts to the surrounding humidity. The fibre expands or shrinks, either to protect, or to promote the fabric's breathing and drying.” Atsushi Itsumi, Mitsubishi Rayon,
Yarns, 6D54
SPRING SUMMER 18
“IN TERMS OF THE BALANCE OF MATERIALS, INTERNATIONAL CREATIVE BRANDS MUST INTEGRATE MULTIPLE SIDES: COLLECTIONS, PRE-COLLECTIONS, SEE-NOW-BUY-NOW, SEASONALITY. AND THEY HAVE TO TAKE INTO ACCOUNT THE REQUIREMENTS OF HIGH-DEMAND COUNTRIES, WHERE CLIMATE CONDITIONS INVOLVE SOMEWHAT SPECIFIC CHOICES FOR FABRICS AND MATERIALS.” Patricia Romatet, professor at the Institut Français de la Mode
"WE HAVE MORE AND MORE CANDIDATES FOR THE PARIS FASHION WEEKS. ANYTHING IS POSSIBLE, BUT THERE IS A FUNDAMENTAL ISSUE OF COORDINATION AND REGULATION. WE ARE UNITED AROUND AFFIRMING THE ROLE OF PARIS, THE BALANCE BETWEEN CREATIVITY AND KNOW-HOW, THE NEED TO GIVE TIME TO LET WANTS EMERGE, AND TO ALLOW THE PRODUCTION CHAIN TO DO ITS BEST." Pascal Morand, Executive President of the Fédération française de la couture, du prêt-à-porter des couturiers et des créateurs de mode
Blossom Première Vision spring summer 18 pre-collections at the Palais Brongniart last December.
BLOSSOM PREMIÈREVISION
INDISPENSABLE PRE- AND INTER-SEASON COLLECTIONS PRE-COLLECTIONS AND INTER-SEASON COLLECTIONS ARE IN NO WAY ANCILLARY. “In fact, with turnovers reaching 50% - 70% for international creative brands, these intermediate collections have been organized to be part of the system,” noted Gilles Lasbordes, General Manager of Première Vision SA: "They've really overturned relatively fixed fashion calendars and systems." Hence the creation of Blossom Première Vision, launched to help creative brands source their pre-collections, while Première Vision Paris aligns with the calen-
dar of runway-show collections, and those of the international market, which is itself subject to a growingly splintered calendar... In this context, manufacturers have to work earlier while optimizing innovation and creativity. "Previously," said Patricia Romatet, a professor at IFM*, "pre-collections were considered to comprise exclusively "commercial" models. Manufacturers were content to select rather classic materials. Pre-collections are no longer satisfied with this solution. Manufacturers now have to meet new requirements, not only in terms of deadlines but also in terms of the choice and variety of their offer." At the same time, she noted, "We are seeing a rise in de-seasonalization." This means less emphasis on mid-winter or
mid-summer products in collections, and in turnover, in favour of inter-seasonal products. Could these collections conceivably be one day integrated in the fashion calendar? "We're focused on facilitating the work done by brands," said Pascal Morand, executive chairman of the Fédération française de la couture, du prêt-àporter des couturiers et des créateurs de mode. Alongside the "six fixed fashion weeks", he underlined the diverse range of presentations upset by the see-now-buy-now trend, causing a "telescoping of seasons." In this context, what happens to the runway show as key element and stimulator of desirability for a strong brand? "Runways aren't only designed for sales," underlines Pascal Morand.
On Tuesday 4th and Wednesday 5th July 2017, the next edition of Blossom Première Vision for the autumn winter 18/19 pre-collections will be held at the Palais Brongniart in Paris. The third edition of the shows pursues its objective of meeting the high-creativity needs of the luxury and highend markets by presenting new made to measure proposals, with a selective and very high quality positioning. In addition to the collections presented by weavers and accessories manufacturers, tanners will continue to enrich the offer of the show, which attracts the biggest French and international names in luxury leathergoods and footwear.
“They give flesh to a creative imagination and add an emotional dimension, which are meant to develop and strengthen the brand.” And, he continued, "There is a trilogy built on creativity, desire and know-how. There's no compromise there. It's not possible to fully embrace immediacy, though there can be limited or capsule editions. It takes time, at least four or five months. It's like a law of physics, it can't be compressed." And this creative time frame benefits Paris' role in the international fashion landscape.
*Institut Français de la Mode
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MY JOB
ATELIER HEAD
Maminiaina de Foucault, director of Les Petites Mains, Première Vision Manufacturing (6V13) and her miniature dressmaker’s dummy
ELIMINATE THE DISTANCE. The one that separates us from our customers. That’s a bit more difficult in our situation. It not only requires a huge effort in terms of being reactive, but we also have to bridge a cultural gap. We must ensure our employees have assimilated an industrial culture that is essential to the achievement of our objectives. My job is
great because it allows me to provide work, so I can contribute to the well being of the people in one the world’s poorest countries. In Malagasy culture, hierarchical relationships are also somewhat familial, paternal relationships, and the leadership responsibility is a very strong social commitment. I have a duty to take care of my collaborators as if they were members of my own
family. My grandmother was a seamstress. My mother had a small sewing workshop. And I founded my own company. But I was prudent. First I studied business management and administration, then I worked five years in the financial department of a textile factory with 1,200 people, then I was the manager of a small business for three years. I began with fewer than ten people and now we are some 100. When I started I wasn’t quite sure of myself. I turned down a blouse order from a prestigious client, who was in Madgascar looking for a manufacturer, because I thought the order was out of reach in terms of our quality level. But that client made me take the job, and today they are my best and most loyal customer.
MY JOB
EMBROIDERER BYBIRTH
Rachel De Lagenest, head of Outerwear and Special Projects design, Bischoff Textil, Première Vision Fabrics (5L9) and her precious charcoal pen
I GREW UP AROUND EMBROIDERY. My parents were textile designers and my father, who was also a teacher, worked for 50 years at Bischoff. He was passionate about the whole history of embroidery, and as a little child he took me to the company’s private museum and the Textile Arts Museum in Saint Gall… When I was a
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teenager I earned my pocket money at Bischoff, gluing the samples and straightening up the museum. I wanted to prove myself, so I worked as a freelance designer in Paris for ten years before coming to Bischoff in 2003.
Embroidery is a second language for me, a very personal way, almost intimate way of communicating. When I create an embroidery model, I reach people, I trigger an emotion. Today, much more than before, the designer is in direct contact with the client. Is that good or not? The important thing is the trust, the shared joys and friendships. And of course the little moments of glory, like the wedding dresses for Nicole Kidman and Amal Clooney, or the embroidered watch for Hublot, which won the 2015 Watchmaking Grand Prix. What I sometimes wonder is if the final consumer, the one wearing the garment, has any idea of the work required to make something so beautiful...
Director of the publication: Philippe Pasquet/ Première Vision: 59, quai Rambaud, 69285 Lyon Cedex 02 – Tel: 33(0)4 72 60 65 00 – Fax: 33 (0)4 72 60 65 09. Email: info @premierevision.com – Production: TOTEMIS - © Photos: S.Kossmann, B. Nottoli FOLLOW ALL THE PREMIÈRE VISION PARIS NEWS AT PREMIEREVISION.COM #WEAREPREMIEREVISION