Première Vision Paris / Daily News / Feb17 / Day 3

THURSDAY TODAY'S NEWS 9 FEBRUARY 2017

THEVITALITYOFBRIGHTS, Ando Ramanantsoa, made by Laboratorio del Gusto, Leather Dani.

Exposition IFM, Hall 6

GIVING THE TRADITIONAL A NEW MODERN TAKE P.6

ASMARTCONVERSATION

ABOUT ECO-RESPONSIBILITY IN LEATHER P.7

YARNS

Check out new developments where yarns make the difference.

Yarns & Knitwear Forum.

Hall 6 North

FABRICS

Pose in the sets used in the latest Première Vision Paris ad campaign.

Bottom of escalators, Hall 6 entry

LEATHER

See 'Metamorphosis', an exhibit by photography students from The Gobelins School of Images (Paris).

Hall 3 entry

DESIGNS

Transpose your profile on a magnet in our Me Magnet studio.

Hall 5

ACCESSORIES

Treat yourself to a creative DIY break at the Jewel Custom Bar. Hall 4

MANUFACTURING

Come to the Nail Bar and get a polish in the colours of the season.

11am - 4pm.

Hall 6

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.30 PM

EMBROIDERED JEWELS BY CAMILLE ENRICO The jewellery designer presents CO/CO, her collection of cuffs, collars, rings and earrings mixing colourful embroidery and precious metal. Her team is ready to embroider the letter of your choice and colour on any item you select to buy.

Accessories. CAMILLE ENRICO POP-UP STORE. HALL 4

LATEST

NEWS

THE RESURGENCE OF PROXIMITY SOURCING: a Première Vision conference with the IFM (Institut Français de la Mode), to analyse and understand the issues involved in proximity sourcing.

Thursday 9 February. Space is limited.

Manufacturing, HALL 5 ROOM 501

WEARABLE LAB A space dedicated to innovations and forward thinking in Fashion Tech, a new creative and business sphere, merging the worlds of fashion and technology.

Fabrics, HALL 5 NORTH, AISLES F AND G

Uberto Ciatti, Inseta “Dry handles and arid finishings are one of the leitmotifs of our SS 2018 collection. We give cotton, linen and ramie very strong twists to lend the yarns a wrinkle-free and dehydrated crêpe aspect. Salt is another fundamental ingredient to dry handles completely naturally. We use it on striped fabrics to combine this dry touch with the look of motion."

Fabrics, 5L36-5M35

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Grégory Meiler, Rial 1957 “We launched our K-Way leather over two years ago, and it's success has constantly grown. Our first idea was to make the skin as fine as possible, and then glue it with silk. The resulting leather is ultra-slim (maximum 0.2 mm), both very resistant and as brittle

Dentelles Mery (Fabrics, 5K1)

SUMMER 18 LIKES ITS HANDLES DRY AND DEHYDRATED. WHAT ARE YOUR METHODS OF ACHIEVING THIS? as cigarette paper, with a handle very much like the famous K-Way windbreaker. This dry leather is one the season's sure bets."

Leather, 3E51-3F52 Anna Mochi, Dinamo Contemporary “This season, we treated our fabrics with high-temperature finishings or coatings of polymerised resins to give textiles both a shiny appearance and a papery handle."

Fabrics, 6P5

BETWEEN MACRO MOTIFS AND MAXI-PRECISION, CONTEMPORARY STYLE IS A MATTER OF DETAILS AT EVERY LEVEL Macro motifs are full of scale in elegantly hand watermeticulous details, as seen at coloured versions. At Preciosa Dentelles Mery (Fabrics, 5K1), (Accessories, 4C39, 4D40), a which pushes the technical specialist in crystal gemstones, possibilities of Leavers lace to this quest for spacious detail is the very limit, in medium and seen in engineered embroidery large floral motifs whose finesse with hints of abstract motifs, can only be matched by the very unfurling like landscapes, highest definition. Motifs inspired enriched by sparkling gradations by the plant world also take the of tiny coloured gems. lion's share at Alexandra Taylor (Designs, 5W80), where they are developed on a very large

SPRING SUMMER 18

THE FLAVOURS OF THE SEASON

BYYANNICKFLAGEUL THE HEAD LEATHERGOODS DESIGNER AT CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN SHARES THE COUNTLESS INSPIRATIONS THAT FEED HIS ABUNDANT CREATIVITY.

I am a huge fan of this green burntout leather by Dolmen (Leather, 3G112), with its play between the artificial colour effect and the metallisation, which magnifies the natural imperfections of the material. Their dyed python skins are sublime too.

Leather, Trends Gallery & Film, HALL 3 I am fascinated by the territorial disputes over what is real and fake, natural and artificial. These gold and silver gems

by Pianeta Gemme (Accessories, 4F06), look straight out of a grotto, but they could very well have been fabricated.

Accessories, Display Forum, HALL 4

LMW

A program of daily workshops to broaden a knowledge of materials for footwear and leather goods, by Luxury Materials Workshops, a Florentine training and consulting organisation.

Thursday 9 February: Metals and types of treatments at 11:30 am. Galvanisation and a close-up on zamac at 2 pm.

Leather. FREE ENTRY. HALL 3, WORKSHOPS & CONFERENCES AREA

Première Vision Istanbul : 22, 23 and 24 March 2017 Made in France Première Vision Paris : 29 and 30 March 2017 Première Vision New York Designs : 18 and 19 April 2017 Denim Première Vision, Paris : 26 and 27 April 2017 Tissu Premier, Lille : May 2017 (dates to come) Blossom Première Vision, Paris : 4 and 5 July 2017 Première Vision New York : 18 and 19 July 2017 Première Vision Paris : 19, 20 and 21 September 2017

Curtidos Bassols (Leather, 3E72)

FOR YOUR CALENDARS

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RAINBOW METALLICS From tone-on-tone lurex to powdery finishes, summer 18 metallics step boldly into colour. At Ekoten Teksil (Fabrics, 5P52-5R33), bronze or gold lurex yarns are slipped discreetly into colourful motifs like so many vibrant points of light, while Story Designs London (Designs, 5W39) updates its "floriental" motifs with metallic yarns broken down in a full range of pastel tones. Without abandoning its gold and silver classics, Curtidos Bassols (Leather, 3E72), shows leathers with pearly or iridescent colourful metal effects in green and violet shades. Echoing the mood, accessories at Amom (Accessories, 4D07), in varnished and burnt-out copper play on a Pop shine contrasted with a vintage look.

BAG & SHOE ELEMENTS Who hasn't made sure their bag and shoes match? Accessories and Leather combine the best of their respective offer in a shared space, the Bag & Shoe Elements, in the heart of the Leather Trends Gallery.

The space presents technical components and ornaments for specific footwear and leathergoods markets, organised by theme.

HALL 3

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BAN ALL HAZARDOUS CHEMICALS FROM FASHION. THAT'S THE GOAL AT BESANI (FABRICS 5P17), CERTIFIED STeP SINCE 2014.

THEY OFFER KNITS MADE WITHOUT USING PRODUCTS HARMFUL TO THE SKIN OR THE ATMOSPHERE. YES, IT'S POSSIBLE!

LATEST

NEWS

SUSTAINABLE, HIGH-PERFORMANT AND MOST OF ALL ATTRACTIVE: LATEST GENERATION ORGANIC MATERIALS ARE IN THE NEWS! Sustainable silkies and organic cottons are in no way inferior to their less ecological counterparts.

The organic and sustainable cottons (BCI-standard) developed

by Huafu (Yarns, 6E55) are distinctive for their "Rain Touch" spinning process that confers unique visual aspects. A specialist in organic fabrics (wool, cotton, linen) and Tencel products, Tintex (Fabrics, 5P50-5R51) is presenting

PUSHING THE LIMITS OF KNITS This little blue sweater found at the Yarns & Knitwear Forum is a European co-creation.

Designed by the Sophie Steller studio (Designs, 5V25) in London, it was knit in Romania by Kasiova (Knitwear Solutions, 6L40) using an indigo yarn supplied by the Spanish company Unitin (Yarns, 6D50), which was also in charge of washing the finished product. "We were trying to explore the full possibilities of knitting, machines and factories," says Sophie Steller, who designed the developments exhibited at Knitwear Solutions this season. And, she adds, "Each one of them was tested, sometimes to the dismay of the technicians! All these ideas can be exploited, manufactured, marketed."

Knitwear Solutions, HALL 6

HAPPY TH 70  Happy birthday to Picchi (Fabrics, 5L38-5M37), an exhibitor specialising in coat and jacket weights based in Prato, Italy.

THEFLAVOURSOFTHESEASON(CONT.FROMPAGE3)

BYYANNICKFLAGEUL

A metallised fur with the handle of an animal-skin seems a utopia. I am really attracted to and amazed by this fur by Accessory Fur (Leather, 3C12), which manages to shine while having a natural handle.

Leather, Trends Gallery & Film, HALL 3

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a cork coating that gives a second life to... corks. This finishing lends cottons an inimitable handle and significant waterresistant properties. At C. Pauli (Fabrics, 5G48-5H49), environmental protection means respecting life. This company known for its organic cotton has working for less than a year on "non-violent" silkies. Their goal is to save the lives of silk worms, while maintaining the highest standards of quality. Lastingly chic.

This monumental jewel by Crisden Belts Buttons & Bijoux (Accessories, 4D03) would make a great handle for a bag. I love its look, it's both constructivist and ethnic. I also like the play on primary colours and shapes combined with contrasting handles and materials.

Accessories, Jewel Focus, HALL 4

01 INTERMITTENT TRANSPARENCY Transparency is much more than just a tracing paper effect this time. For this summer 18 season, it's a virtual playing ground for designers, who envision successions of empty and full areas.

They go for cut-yarns even in knits, deliberately synthetic burnt-outs, and outerlayer/inner layer double-readings.

Also selected: embroidery and prints with opaque effects, right on to the gridded effects of gauze in fancy woollens.

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Piero Galli (Fabrics, 5K11) Palateks (Fabrics, 5D8-5E7)

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Michèle Lemaire (Fabrics, 5K14)

Gülipek Tekstil (Fabrics, 5D2-5E1)

02 SHIVERING Men's buyers kicked things off, now womenswear buyers are raising the stakes. First with seersuckers, for their ability to lend motion to prints and stripes. They are won over by silkies with delicate crepons, cloqués and wrinkles. Pleats with a mobile waviness also make the cut in women's markets, with finely folded lace, knits where the inside of the pleat is printed, etc.

WHAT ARE WOMENSWEAR BUYERS LOOKING FOR? HERE, EARLY INDICATIONS FROM THE PREMIÈRE VISION FABRICS SURVEY CONDUCTED YESTERDAY IN THE AISLES.

03 FANTASY IN THE GROUNDS Buyers want grounds with the same degree of fantasy they find in decoration.

Something has to be going on in the background. And nothing escapes their eagle eye - fancy weaves, figured textures, micro-patterns in the base fabric. For the future's fancy jackets, the striking irregularity of yarns, slubs, bouclés and tweeds are a perfect answer to this need for decoration behind the decoration.

04 A HINT OF RELAXATION Desires are converging. Casualwear is wanted silky, and silkies are preferred relaxed. Boundaries don't matter to buyers. Washed and lived-in fabrics are very in demand, in a totally assumed desire to democratize silks, while fluidity is called for in casualwear. Cupro and

COLOUR SATURATIONS Womenswear designers are fearlessly adventurous.

Summer 18 looks to be saturated with colours, noisylooking, driven by visuals with impact and highlighted by metallic accents. Choices were particularly marked in prints, with bold colour in the grounds, and patterns where brights collide with each other.

Even in lace, flashy looks don't frighten off buyers, whether plain or multi-coloured..

Tencel stand out, especially in prints.

A faded delicacy infuses choices for the chicest silkies.

05 UNSTABLE GEOMETRY Nothing rigid, nothing square in the season's nonetheless geometric choices. The day's winners: herringbones, diamonds and dots that reject alignment and set aside perfect contours. It's the right time for improvisation. In knits, stripes are preferred when not too clearly traced, with interrupted rhythms. In lace and embroidery, choices tend to borrowings between geometry and vegetation, layerings of stripes and flowers.

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05

New Concepts (Fabrics, 5E29)

BEST THE

SPRING SUMMER 18

103 04

WEAVERS GAVE THEIR VIEWPOINTS ON WOMENSWEAR FOR SPRING SUMMER 18

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VIEWPOINTS

THIS SEASON WE'RE PRESENTING OUR SPACEDDYED YARN: a fancy yarn dyed using a technique of "crossing" with four colours.

The layering of the colours is harmonised by a white background, for a visual breathing space. This playful multi-coloured yarn lets you inject unexpected and dynamic variations into patterns. ”

BOLDLY, BRIGHT COLOURS SHOW OFF A NEW VITALITY, A SIGN OF MODERNITY. HOW DO BRIGHTS EXPAND TRADITIONAL HORIZONS?

Praewprai Kongkiatkrai, Kongkiat Textile, Yarns, 6E56

IN MY OPINION, FLUORESCENCE IS STILL IN ITS INFANCY, yet it's a trend impacting both prints and colours. A terrific energy is produced by reflective colourful accents, by beautiful joyful prints with very saturated and extreme colours, a kind of graphic history that feeds on psychedelic prints echoing the Beat Generation's oranges, roses, greens and yellows. It's about moving forward, with force and boldness. But this one story isn't enough to evoke colour. All our clients have very different expectations. We are seeing another strong trend: a slightly bohemian story with a grunge look, with softer, more discreet tones...”

THE 'SAHARA MOULINÉ', OUR NEW 100% LINEN YARN with a thrown effect, heads off into bright yellows, pinks and greens.

This eco-friendly and colourful yarn has a new structure, for a textured design signature that updates traditional looks.”

Luca Buttarelli, Albini Donna, Fabrics, 6G7

Jean Ensell, Ensell & Hall,

Designs, 5W25

MY BACKGROUND IN SURFWEAR naturally led me to explore Brazilian and tropical prints in bright colours for ready-to-wear. I try to alternate between brights and darks in the same drawing, with flat-tints, pencilling, watercolours, photography or painting. The textured aspect of the print comes from a magical chemistry between the precision of the design and the more random touch used for water-colouring and colouring.

The sea green, turquoise, pink and nude tones add a rich freshness to brights” Helena Guilloteau, Akagii,

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Designs, 5V89

TO STAND OUT FROM THE REST, we focus on bold proposals with real contrast. What's original about our suede Serengeti leather is the combination of a graphic and playful print, made up of several leopard skins, with turquoise, green, fuchsia and yellow fluorescent tones. By simulating drops of water on bright colours, our second skin novelty with suede "drips" boosts that feeling of transparency and freshness. It was an unexpected effect.”

Javier Pérez Poveda, Jose Pérez Hernandez, Leather, 3E40

PUNCHY COLOUR ACCENTS inspired by the sport universe have moved into ready-to-wear, and labels, ribbons, belts and cuffs invite colorimetric exploration.

A grosgrain or chambray ribbon in multiple intense tones will be mixed with softer tones for an immediate impact, but all in nuance. These brights inject intensity and singularity into any item.”

Sylvia Schuhleitner, Fashion Tex,

Accessories 4G10

SPRING SUMMER 18

"TRACEABILITY IS A KEY ISSUE FOR A COMPANY LIKE GUCCI, WHOSE PRODUCTS ARE ENTIRELY MADE IN ITALY. TO GET THE BEST QUALITY, WE HAVE TO BE SURE OF OUR RAW MATERIALS. OUR GOAL IS TO ACHIEVE 85% TOTAL TRACEABILITY BY 2018 AND 100% BY 2025."

"TRANSPARENCY IS OUR GUIDING WORD. FOR TWO YEARS WE'VE BEEN PUBLISHING A REPORT ON ECO-RESPONSIBILITY, WITH ALL OUR FIGURES, FROM HOW MUCH WATER WE USED TO OUR EMPLOYEE COMPENSATION. IT HAS THE NAMES OF ALL THE CHEMICALS USED, WHERE OUR ANIMALS CAME FROM ... AND OUR TANNERIES ARE ALWAYS OPEN TO VISITORS."

Rossella Ravagli, Head of Sustainability and Corporate Responsibility at Gucci

Marta Fumei, head of marketing and communications at DaniGroup

Leather Smart Conversation, yesterday at Première Vision Paris, moderated by Giusy Bettoni, President of C.L.A.S.S. and Consultant for Première Vision in Innovation and Sustainable Development.

LEATHER ISNOTVEGAN

THE LEATHER SIDE TO SMART CREATION LIKE THE MAJOR FASHION HOUSES THEY SUPPLY, TANNERS ARE EXAMINING THEIR OWN ECO-RESPONSIBILITY, constantly striving to improve their environmental impact. To further a discussion around Smart Creation in the leather sector, on Tuesday Première Vision brought together three experts: Marta Fumei, Head of Marketing and Communications at DaniGroup; Rossella Ravagli, Head of Sustainability and Corporate Responsibility at Gucci; and Francesco Marchi, Managing Director of Euratex for a discussion led by Giusy Bettoni*. As an introduction to this conversation, Bettoni recalled the words of environmental journalist Mike Redhood: "Leather is an orga-

nic recycled material and that means that the job of tanner is the oldest recycling profession in the world. It is a craft that humanizes technology and needs to be safeguarded. To do that, the leather industry must evolve in order to remain relevant to consumers."

On this point, everyone agrees. "Yet why is it that when we ask fashion students around the world which brand is the most responsible, 99% of them answer H&M?" asked Bettoni. "It's because H&M underlines and advertises their eco-responsibility, while luxury brands don't. So we have to do better, but above all, we have to communicate what we are doing." And in terms of doing better, just how is the leather industry doing? As Marta Fumei explained, we can now trace a product's entire production chain, from its water use, to recycling of waste,

to monitoring chemicals used to tan the skins, and more. And the issue of the tanning is still quite complex.

Historically, there are two types of tanning, tied to the intended use of the skin. "Chrome tanning, which represents, globally, 85% of all tanning, results in a very resistant leather. It's perfect for a product that will undergo sizable stress when put into production, like for shoes.

On the other hand, vegetable tanning is preferred for less extreme uses, for products that can acquire a nice patina over time," explained Marc Brunel, Première Vision Leather show director. These two tanning processes pose no environmental problems when well managed and rigorously controlled, as is the case for European and Brazilian tanneries. "Today improvement is still needed in terms of the tra-

Leather, an animal by-product, cannot, by definition, be vegan.

In France, a decree was passed in 2010 to protect the word "leather", which is a material of animal origin and the product of the transformation of a skin by tanners and tawers. The term "vegan" cannot thus be attached to the word "leather".

To avoid any confusion on the part of consumers who think they are using a non-polluting natural product, awareness operations are being undertaken at fashion houses employing this expression in their collection planning on websites.

ceability between animal breeding and leather tanning," noted Brunel.

"The tests piloted by the Fédération française de la tannerie and the Conseil national du cuir have provided convincing results, and now need to be tested on an industrial scale." To help textile industry companies become more responsible, Euratex's Marchi presented a tool, soon to be made available online, to assess need and measure progress in terms of already existing commitments. "This tool takes into account the growing demand for transparency. Today, a company that isn't eco-responsible runs the risk of getting a tarnished reputation and losing its clients... "

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MY JOB

SKINS CONTROLLER

Roberto Falaschi, head of quality control and post production, Reptilis Première Vision Leather (3E11-3F12) with one of his skins

SKINS ARE MY DAILY BREAD. That's a bit theatrical but it's so true. I was born a few kilometers from Santa Croce sull'Arno, in the region of Florence. At every corner of the road, every turn of the river, a tannery springs up. So I have been "leather-fed" since I was little. I have been working in this field for nearly 30 years. I took my first steps in the leather industry right after my studies and my

military service, at a shoesole manufacturer, before moving on to selling raw hides for a few years and then joining Reptilis in 2000.

Once I get the skins from the factory, I select and precisely measure each one. I help our customers choose their

MY JOB

ENTHUSIASTIC SALESMAN Ulrich Rex, sales manager at UTT - Union Textile De Tourcoing, Première Vision Yarns (6F53) and his summery yarn bobbins

I'VE BEEN WORKING HERE FOR 30 YEARS. I love my company, I love yarns. I came here from Germany when I was 21, after business school. What I'm most proud of is that we're a small company, but we're the only spinning mill still standing in the North of France. And we are competitive. UTT has three focal areas: Fancy yarns for fashion and classic knitwear

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for broad retail distribution, which we elaborate in terms of quality and colour, which will be knitted to win over central buying offices. Then yarns for wovens, for ready-to-wear and furnishings: curtains, tablecloths and carpets.

Here, our diversity helps us maintain production volume.

Though you could say that

materials, I listen to their needs and I break down for them the characteristics of each of the skins depending on their intended use in leathergoods, clothing or shoes. We work rare skins, to which we apply specific finishings, like bleaching or giving a patina to crocodile.

Or covering karung skins with very discreet interlacings. Attention to detail and a thorough knowledge of the materials are fundamental in my line of work. I love these precious skins, love to see them take on shape and colour. Long before I see them again at the biggest brands, I dream, I transform them, I imagine them in use. My profession has changed. Market expectations are changing, especially the attention to chemical characteristics.

To best address this, we are developing an in-house project called Ecopath, dedicated to ecoresponsibility.

today the market is somewhat stabilized, we can't forget it's been shrinking non-stop since 2000! And lastly, we develop technical yarns - fireresistant, scratch-resistant - which are currently reserved for a pro universe but which, I think, will soon find a place in the fashion world. What really interests us today is recycling: recreating yarns from imported textiles that have been used and discarded.

Beyond the ecological aspect, this is also a way to bring back production to Europe.

We are still taking our first steps but I anticipate very rapid growth in this sector.

Our strength is our proximity and responsiveness. Some central buying offices don't order large volumes all at once, preferring to restock a product if it sells quickly. We are able to provide for 20 to 30,000 sweaters in 8 or 9 days!

Director of the publication: Philippe Pasquet/ Première Vision: 59, quai Rambaud, 69285 Lyon Cedex 02 – Tel: 33(0)4 72 60 65 00 – Fax: 33 (0)4 72 60 65 09.

Email: info @premierevision.com – Production: TOTEMIS - © Photos: C. Desheulles, S. Kossmann, B. Nottoli, Taneka FOLLOW ALL THE PREMIÈRE VISION PARIS NEWS AT PREMIEREVISION.COM #WEAREPREMIEREVISION