Song Blues #6, 2023 ©Ella Bats / Modèle @renaud.dallet / Hair @taan_doan / Makeup @dufresnemarie /Set design @ckdelight
The Spring-Summer 25 season unfolds in a context of profound, long-term transformations. Current environmental, societal, scientific and technological upheavals are driving the fashion industry to reexamine its traditional creative and industrial processes, and putting the ecological transition at the heart of the dialogues between designers, manufacturers and marketing teams. Change is thus an inevitable step in the move to sustainable models, driven by a desire for preservation. New approaches are emerging to bridge the gap between meaning and creativity, to rally all the parties in the chain - from designers to clients - around a single cornerstone: the environment. Products are undergoing a complete metamorphosis, integrating an ever-growing range of criteria combining aesthetics, appeal, comfort, performance and durability. At the heart of these shifting paradigms lies the concept of Mutation, a theme cutting across the season, making Spring-Summer 25 both an observatory and a laboratory of transformative processes. A meaningful overarching concept, impacting both aesthetics and processes, that invites us to explore different directions: Regeneration reflects the season's focus on all that is truly extraordinary in nature, seeking out wonder and amazement in the most overlooked corners of the animal kingdom. This shift in outlook gives rise to a more collaborative approach with the world of living things, working to protect them over the long term. Today, the choice of a material can - depending on the natural resource and manufacturing process used - help regenerate ecosystems. Transformation explores metamorphosis as a catalyst for creating collections with radically new aesthetic proposals, with a deep and thorough modification of materials, colors, aspects and behaviors. The exact moment of transformation is captured - an intermediate state giving rise to a mutant, hybrid universe. Adaptation leads to a new equilibrium, a pragmatic minimalism in full alignment with a post-growth era. Adaptation reflects an evolved approach to design processes, where materials and know-how adapt to use, and target longevity and durability. Through the prism of transformation, Spring-Summer 25 is positioned as a tipping point, celebrating experimentation, exploration and projects that take shape over time, embrace the long term, and transcend the seasonal nature of fashion. The season invites us to view mutation as a defining element and creative impetus in collections. This Spring-Summer 25, moltings and chrysalids symbolize a fruitful metamorphosis, to help safeguard and restore meaning to creativity, in harmony with all living things.
Color range
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The film of the season
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Decodings
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Sustainability Fabrics Decoration Designs Leather Accessories Sport & Outdoor Designs
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SPRING — SUMMER 25
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THE SPRING-SUMMER 25 RANGE
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The Spring-Summer 25 range represents a bold approach to color. It points up the value of color in a state of flux and regenerates classic hues. It speaks to color in mutation, with shades transformed by a luminous intensity, tempered with restraint or given an off-kilter look thanks to hybrid pigmentations.
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→ The power of light leads to modulated whitened hues. Overexposed warms, naturals desaturated by dryness, airy colds and bioluminescent clarity. → A concentrated, full-on intensity reflects regenerated natural elements with solid, nourishing colors, a hyper-pigmented density and bright bursts - with the power to energize. → A vague, equivocal harmony between elusive nuances and immoderately deep shades creates an enigmatic, strange, yet appealing atmosphere with Ambiguous reddish hues, delicately tinted neutrals, pure or opalescent pale tones. → And a profusion of mutating colds, brought into unusual registers, reveals fermented tones, fertile greens and browns, bluish and purplish tones seem extracted from living organisms.
A color range that accentuates the singularity of hues, pushes timeless shades beyond the neutral realm, gives a new spin to brights thanks to unusual pigmentations, and nuances shaded tones from intensity to luminosity. Changing the nature of hues opens the way to new warm-cool combinations, modifies the balance of light-dark contrasts and lends toneon-tones a multifaceted expressiveness. These modifications totally overturn chromatic stereotypes and break down barriers in how colors are used.
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SPRING — SUMMER 25
| SPRING — SUMMER 25
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The PE 25 season is all about transformation. The season’s film, directed by Taskin Goec, illustrates this concept.
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SUSTAINABILITY Fabrics Leather Accessories
FABRICS DECORATION DESIGNS LEATHER
SUSTAINABLE FABRICS Textiles are undergoing a profound change, a revolution. While still primarily sourced from fossil fuels, intensive farming and inadequately regulated chemical processes, today's raw materials and new fibers are taking on new, alternative approaches. By turning to existing deposits, water- and energyefficient technologies, stringent chemical controls, and traceability tools, they broaden the horizon to include more virtuous models of production and consumption. Without professing to be ecological miracles, these strategies can help us rethink know-hows and innovation and propel us into a desirable future, beginning right now.
ACCESSORIES SPORT & TECH DENIM
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SAFEGUARDING NATURE The use of natural animal and plant fibers is targeting more sustainable agricultural models. While various certifications - BCI, GOTS, Good Earth Cotton™ or Regeneagri set forth different requirements, the goal is to achieve maximum compliance with commitments targeting water conservation, biodiversity and land revitalization. The origins of raw materials and their traceability help ensure non-toxic farming, breeding and harvesting processes. European Flax™ certifies flax and hemp grown in Europe. For wools, an additional criterion, animal welfare, is ensured by breeding zones prohibiting mulesing, and confirmed by RWS, ZQ or Peta Approved certifications. Beyond labels, simple common sense is a useful guideline when it comes to harnessing nature without destroying it, to help ensure its renewal.
This common sense should be applied throughout the value chain, right up to a product's uses, by reconsidering the quality of natural fibers, the breathability of plant fibers, the insulating power of linens and hemp, and the heat-regulating properties of wool.
INNOVATIV
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TEARFIL TEXTILE YARNS
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TMG TEXTILES
EVLOX
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SUSTAINABILITY
RENEWABLE SYNTHETICS
Fabrics
Processing polyamide, polyester and elastane faces three major challenges: reducing dependence on fossil fuels, reducing the dispersion of plastic micro-particles, and facilitating recycling and biodegradability.
Leather Accessories
FABRICS DECORATION
Polymers based on cane sugar, castor oil, coffee residues and corn starch, such as PLA and its variants, Sorona®, PLaX and Noosa™, are increasingly meeting these objectives.
DESIGNS LEATHER ACCESSORIES
SUNFENG TEXTILE
The mechanical stretch of certain synthetics is sufficient to impart freedom of movement but is no substitute for elastane when it comes to stretch support or compression.
SPORT & TECH DENIM BIOWORKS
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DAEWOONG
BALAS TEXTILE
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Recycled elastane, the first ecological alternative to conventional stretch, has now been surpassed in terms of environmental performance by elastic filaments with faster biodegradability, made from renewable resources or recycled production waste.
| SPRING — SUMMER 25
SUSTAINABILITY Fabrics Leather Accessories
FABRICS DECORATION DESIGNS LEATHER ACCESSORIES SPORT & TECH DENIM
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VIRTUOUS FINISHINGS Choosing the right raw material is central to minimizing the ecological impact of textiles, but the finishing stages must also align with sustainable sourcing efforts. Dyeing processes in closed-loop systems, along with water purification and recycling, should be the minimum commitment. Today, advances in natural dyes are broadening the options for clean dyeing. Pigments derived from brown algae, fruits, flowers, wood residues and textiles now ensure colorfastness and reproducibility. On the embellishment front, initiatives are emerging to curb the spread of plastic materials: loose acetate glitter, synthetic-free flocked designs using cotton powder, or sequins made from recycled polyester. In the Outdoor and protection universes, the challenge is significant — phasing out perfluorocarbons (PFCs) in the membranes and coatings that render textiles waterproof. Several alternatives to these toxic molecules, which survive in the atmosphere for a 50,000 years, are now used in the compositions of waterproof, windproof, and downproof textiles: polyurethane coatings and membranes made from renewable natural resources with accelerated biodegradability, and impregnations made from natural waxes or vegetable oils.
CFM RDD TEXTILE VALERIUS
DAEHYUN
POSITIVE MATERIALS
AKSPA EMBROIDERY LACE
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| SPRING — SUMMER 25
SUSTAINABILITY Fabrics Leather Accessories
FABRICS DECORATION DESIGNS LEATHER ACCESSORIES SPORT & TECH DENIM
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SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS Despite being available on an industrial scale, these promising examples still account for only a small fraction of today's supplies. For several seasons now, circular production has been experimenting with various channels. To tap into waste rather than using renewable or fossil resources, two major approaches are emerging. One is the recycling of pre- or post-consumer textiles, in polyester for example with Tex2Tex™, or with second-generation cellulosic man-made fibers such as Nucycl®, Circulose®, or Circ®lyocell. The most promising avenue, though not yet widespread, involves developing co-products from the agri-food industry, such as spinning pineapple or banana fibers, or chemically recycling citrus fruit, linseed oil or hemp residues.
Meanwhile, several new technologies are emerging, such as the process developed by Spiber, which produces its Brewed Protein™ filament using an exclusive fermentation process for plant ingredients. The process uses neither fossil resources nor soil. The latest innovation making waves in synthetics is a process developed by Lanzatech, where industrial gas emissions from steel mills are captured and turned into polyester, a product that is woven by Long Advance in particular. This revolutionary process relies on petrochemistry to make materials while depolluting the air.
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A-GIRLS
LONG ADVANCE INT'L
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EARTH PROTEX
VILARTEX