TISSU PREMIER CONFIRMS ITS ROLE AS A “LOCAL” SHOW THAT IS PERFECTLY IN TUNE WITH THE REQUIREMENTS OF THE DISTRIBUTION SECTOR. Handshakes, smiles, greetings, reunions – there is no doubt that the Tissu Premier show has become a fixture in the fashion calendar. For more than 30 years, this Lille-based event has been bringing together fabric manufacturers and putting them in contact with European chains and the distribution sector.
In the former spinning mill in Saint André-lez-Lille, 76 exhibitors presented their latest collections to nearly 1,000 visitors. The show takes the form of fashion circuit that offers a wealth of prints, yarn died fabrics, knitted fabrics, silks, designs, woollens and textiles accessories, which visitors take the time to examine in detail. As well as looking for that ‘star’ item, they also come to meet with their suppliers, who welcome them under optimal, pressure-free conditions. “We come to Tissu Premier to buy fabrics for high summer 16. It is an efficient event, we never have to wait to be served,” said Maud Vermesch, a buyer for Grain de Malice. Its location means that buyers from the northern central buying offices come as a team and “this allows us to meet all our contacts, including those that we don’t usually see in our own premises” (KBC Fashion). The manager of Sprintex summed it up: “relationships are essential” to ensure lasting business, “the buyer who wants to see you will come back”. It seems like a simple equation but in the rather unsettling context, 4 exhibitors chose not to attend, and visitor numbers were down – 980 visitors compared with 1,300 in June 2015. “Certain buyers told us they would not be attending because they did not want to take public transport” (JCR Group). Nevertheless core visitors were in attendance including delegations from Promod, Camaïeu, IKKS, La Redoute, Monoprix, Cyrillus, Blanche Porte, Okaïdi, Brice, TAO, Bizzbee, Kiabi, La Halle, Armand Thierry and the Zannier and Beaumanoir groups, for example.
Post show report November 2015
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Regular exhibitors had a good show (Sprintex, Gallus, Quick Code, Caffisi, Domotex, Tiss et Teint, Velysam, Can Kumascilik) while new exhibitors (La Box à Motifs) were able to make contact with major clients from Holland, Belgium and the Lille region. As well as the testimony from buyers who came to discuss collections, whether they work in the short term (updating Summer 16), the medium term (Autumn-Winter 16/17) or the in the long term (Summer 17), there were also more and more visitors who came with a very specific idea in mind. Save precious time by working on three seasons at once, and enjoy yourself in the process – this is the goal of Tissu Premier. One of these was a womenswear designer for the La Redoute group. “We are looking for environmentallyfriendly local suppliers to make capsule collections as our customers are increasingly interested in the quality and the origin of the products.” Or another buyer from a major womenswear chain from the Beaumanoir group who emphasised “the need to stand out, in a global fashion system where the same dress can be found in the same window of the same chain in all the big cities in the world”.
An observation that took on all its meaning at the conference by Nelly Rodi. “The global economic crises and the technological revolution that have been affecting the market for years are upsetting consumption patterns and challenging the historical players. Ostentation is over; we have entered the era of ecoresponsibility and the all-powerful internet. The globalisation of the offer and the standardisation of the market, which tends towards the same players with the same codes, are pushing the consumer to look for exclusivity, local production and transparency. They want to be fully connected to the brands they consume and the origins of the product. Their role has changed, they have seized power, becoming ambassadors, influencers, omni-consumers”. Marie Dubin, Head of the Fashion Consultancy Group for Nelly Rodi offered 10 key points for fashion brands to explore. Another essential player in strategy, product marketing and seasonal development, Peclers, placed the emphasis on “Essentials.” The current pace of fashion requires collections to follow on from one and other in quick succession. Labels are constantly on the lookout for innovation and often mistakenly believe that desirability comes from what is new. Caught up in this frantic pace and looking to find their identity, labels sometimes overlook the “Essentials”, instead focusing on fast fashion products. During a conference at Tissu Premier, Peclers invited them to change their perspective and replace Essentials at the heart of their collection strategy.
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Highly anticipated at the show was the presentation by the Première Vision fashion team on the trends for Autumn-Winter 16/17. These had been presented at Première Vision Fabrics in September and then updated thanks to the Best survey carried out with 308 exhibitors, each representative of the various specialities, namely shirting, drapery, woollens, silks, lace, printing, knitted fabric, technical fabric, relax cotton and jeanswear. This survey deciphers the preferences of international buyers among the collections of fabrics and designs for the menswear, womenswear, casual, sport and indoor markets. Visitors left the presentation won over by this information that was closely market-oriented, presenting the top colours and trends for each market for autumn-winter 16/17. “The level of vocabulary and the movement of the fabric were particularly well described” said a designer from La Redoute as they left. Finally, for labels who work in the longer term, the Promostyl style bureau presented four potential trends to explore for Summer 17. These will be confirmed during the next show, on 25 and 26 May 2016.
Service presse TISSU PREMIER PREMIÈRE VISION Juliette Sebille @ : j.sebille@premierevision.com T : +33 (0)1 70 38 70 33
Post show report November 2015
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