Rick Owens

Page 1



2011/2012/2013 Trend and style report Paige Carpenter



Brand Research Target Market Observation Demographics Trend Report Trend Forecast Ya채aburnee Textiles/Materials Time Action Calendar



Brand Research


Rick Owens was born and raised in rural Porterville, California an agricultural village in 1962. He fondly remembers being in Catholic school and “Bible stories of people in dragging robes in dusty temples” and later found his muse in lead singer Gene Simmons of the band KISS around 1974 something that was somewhat of a taboo for a Catholic school student. After he graduated high school, he moved to Los Angeles and studied at Otis Art Institute as a painter and then moved to L.A. Trade Technical College for patternmaking course after two years. When he was done, he worked at a multitude of different designer knockoff houses until he turned 37, and he decided to open his own tiny studio on Hollywood Boulevard. With only himself, an assistant and a seamstress, he began presenting his clothes to retailers, store by store. After a while, he gained an “indierocker” following with Courtney Love as their poster child and after some time sold to places like Maxfield in Los Angeles, Louis Boston in Boston and Linda Dresner in New York. During those years as his line grew, he spent a lot of his time in sex clubs, doing drugs and drinking heavily. As he puts it, “[I] really tested my body’s limits. It was great fun, but I’m glad I stopped.” His longtime partner and wife since 2006, Michele Lamy, bolstered his return to health. In 2001, Owen’s business really took off. His production moved from the States to Italy and he signed with EBA, an Italian sales agent to distribute his line internationally. Vogue was the sponsor of his first runway show, and he was then presented with the Perry Ellis award for emerging talent but the Council of Fashion Designers of America. He then moved to Paris and continues to shock and surprise with his fondness for taking risks and his fans continue to buy his pieces in droves. Owens himself says: "I try to make clothes the way Lou Reed does music, direct, with minimal chord changes, and sweet but kind of creepy. It's about giving everything I make a worn, softened feeling. It's about an elegance tinged with a bit of the barbaric, the sloppiness of something dragging and the luxury of not caring. At Revillon, I felt it isn't about display but rather giving the woman a selfish pleasure. It is about using sable as the lining under a very humble jacket, the luxury is all hers." (Tung)


Rick Owens Company Information Company Headquarters and Flagship Store:

RICK OWENS PARIS JARDINS DU PALAIS ROYAL 130-133 GALERIE DE VALOIS PARIS 75001 TEL +33 1 40 20 42 52 FAX +33 1 42 96 56 35 BARBARA@RICKOWENSPARIS.COM STORE@RICKOWENSPARIS.COM

Other International Branches:

RICK OWENS NEW YORK 250 HUDSON STREET NEW YORK (NY) 10013 TEL +1 212 627 7222 FAX + 1 212 627 7233 MALEKO@RICKOWENSNY.COM STORE@RICKOWENSNY.COM


RICK OWENS LONDON 64 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET MAYFAIR, LONDON W1K 2QT TEL : +44 207 4937145 FAX : +44 207 4955727 FLORENCE@RICKOWENSLONDON.COM STORE@RICKOWENSLONDON.COM

RICK OWENS TOKYO 6-5-55 MINAMI-AOYAMA, MINATO-KU, TOKYO 107-0062 TEL : + 81 3 6805 0036 FAX : + 81 3 6805 0026 RIHYANG@RICKOWENSTOKYO.COM STORE@RICKOWENSTOKYO.COM


RICK OWENS SEOUL 651 SHINSA-DONG, GANGNAM-GU SEOUL 135-897, KOREA TEL : +82 2 516 2217 FAX : +82 2 516 2218 EUNJIN@RICKOWENSSEOUL.COM STORE@RICKOWENSSEOUL.COM

RICK OWENS HONG KONG SHOP 224-225 THE LANDMARK 15 QUEEN'S ROAD CENTRAL HONG KONG TEL. : +852 2530 0882 FAX +852 2810 4625 NING@RICKOWENSHONGKONG.COM STORE@RICKOWENSHONGKONG.COM (OwensCorp)



Labels RICK OWENS Flagship Line Men’s

Women’s

RICK OWEN’S LILIES


DRKSHDW Women’s

Men’s

HUN

FURNITURE

(OwensCorp)


Rules of Style Design philosophy 1. I’m not good at subtlety. If you’re not going to be discreet and quiet, then just go all the way and have the balls to shave off your eyebrows, bleach your hair, and put on some big bracelets.

2. Working out is modern couture. No outfit is going to make you look or feel as good as having a fit body. Buy less clothing and go to the gym instead.

3. I've lived in Paris for six years, and I'm sorry to say that the Ugly American syndrome still exists. Sometimes you just want to say "Stop destroying the landscape with your outfit." Still, from a design standpoint, I'm tempted to redo the fanny pack. I look at it as a challenge—it's something to react against.

4. When a suit gets middle-of-the-road it kind of loses me—it has to be sharp and classic and almost forties.

5. Hair and shoes say it all. Everything in between is forgivable as long as you keep it simple. Trying to talk with your clothes is passive-aggressive.

6. There's something a little too chatterboxy about color. Right now I want black, for its sharpness and punctuation.

7. Jean-Michel Frank, the thirties interior and furniture designer, supposedly had 40 identical double-breasted gray flannel suits. He knew himself and is a wonderful example of restraint and extravagance.

8. I hate rings and bracelets on men. I'm not a fan of man bags, or girl bags either—or even sunglasses. I don't like fussy accessories. Isn't it more chic to be free? Every jacket I make has interior pockets big enough to store a book and a sandwich and a passport.

9. With layering, sometimes the more the better. When you layer a lot of black you're like a walking Louise Nevelson sculpture, and that's pretty attractive. Allowing yourself to be vulnerable is also one of the most attractive things you can do.

10. It's funny—whenever someone talks about rules, I just want to break them. I recoil from the whole idea of rules. (Details)


Competition Rick Owens VS Gareth Pugh

Both designers have been called by major publications as “gothic” “fantastical” “elegant” and “sleek.” Costume like and highly tailored, Rick Owens’ designs tend to lay more on the side of a clean futurism whereas Gareth Pugh is more on the post apocalyptic, heavy machine side of the spectrum. Certainly, Rick Owens’ clothes are more acceptable to wear on the street where as Gareth Pugh is purely architectural and art e.i. his couture is very very strange. Both their Pret-a-Porter lines are on the same level price wise, generally on the same level as far as quality.


WOMENäS WEAR DAILY: áA Bridge Too Farà News article By Katya Foreman With contributions from Marc Karimzadeh and Miles Socha In an era when politics are becoming more and more conservative, as the world harkens back to the by gone days of Mad Men where “men stood up to be gentle men and women sat down and were ladies” more designers are decidedly pushing the boundaries of gender expression and identity. Whether despite or because of, we do not know. “Men’s wear has always been boring, [with] its traditional pants-shirt-jacket formula. But in the last few seasons, it’s been particularly boring and traditional,” says Lady Gaga stylist, Nicola Formichetti. “I don’t know what to wear anymore. There are all these rules and brackets to fit into. That’s what, for us designers, makes it more of a challenge.” More and more designers are pushing men’s dresses and skirts, some are even making special sized and shaped high-heeled shoes and fashionable bralettes. But designers, like Marc Jacobs and Rick Owens are not trying to create an army of effeminate men, they are simply pushing back on the cultural norms. Sadly, many stores are not buying into it. It is known that ground breaking runway pieces are wonderful to generate press interest but rarely do they actually sell well. There is no one true poster child to make daring styles more in the norm a la Lady Gaga but celebrities like Marc Jacobs and David Beckham and designers like Comme des Garcons’ Rei Kawakubo, Yohji Yamamoto, and Japanese brand Julius have been “chipping away at gender categories” in their collections and personal styles. “Owens looks at it another way. In showing jackets layered over priestly raw silk robes, or long straight skirts split open at the back, the designer says that he was thinking of history rather than sex, with Gustav Klimt’s painting smock among the references.” “I don’t expect to change the way men dress. I was just suggesting an option,” Owens says. “I liked projecting a formal dignity in a timeless and borderless way…I was thinking of myself and a week alone on an island.”

(Foreman)


NEW YORK TIMES: áRick Owens | Making His Own Bedà News article By Alix Browne Bored by the furniture choices on the market, Paris-based fashion designer Rick Owens fell into designing furniture “simply because he needed something to sit on.” He found that many pieces were to polite for his home and office that was once the French Socialist Party Headquarters. The first U.S. exhibition of his furniture opened the weekend of May 5th 2010 at Jeanne Greeberg Rohatyn’s Salon 94 called “Pavane for a Dead Princess.” The bed and matching daybed pair are made in alabaster and marble, modeled after Owens’ own bed. Their combined weight equals up to about 2 tons. It stays within his strict design philosophy of being “simultaneously brutal and elegant” or as he says “the bed is part Sleeping Beauty’s glass coffin and part Christ’s open tomb by way of Donald Judd and Richard Serra.” Designing furniture along with his various clothing lines allows him to work closely with and nurture a new connection with his longtime partner and wife, Michele Lamy. “It’s tricky for us to do business together,” Owens said. “I’m pragmatic and impatient and she’s good at cultivating and nurturing the artisans. Imagine a gypsy and a fascist trying to organize a war together. It just doesn’t work. But this has been our most successful collaboration. Some beautiful things have come out of it.”

(Browne)


Target Market Observation


160 South La Brea Avenue Los Angeles, CA 90036 (323) 935-3154 Visited on 6 March 2012


There is a lot going on in this store, large floor space full of displays and fixtures, clothes and shoes scattered everywhere. There seemed to be little rhyme or reasoning to their layout other than the obvious men’s side of the store full of coats and trousers and women’s side of the store stocked with dresses and cardigans. I noticed a bizarrely large amount of businessmen shopping in the store, wearing tailored suits and shined shoes, perhaps they were looking for vintage suit jackets, or interesting shoes to complement otherwise boring work attire. People seemed to be very drawn to the book section by the cash register towards the front of the store, looking at all the rare and strange books like The Art of Chinese Communist Propaganda and 2000 films of the 2000s. It is a very eclectic store, a sort of feast for the hipster eye. Customers seemed to be very drawn to the wall displays which ranged from posters to mannequins in niches in the wall to just plain strange decorations and alcoves to either side of the store, one with a low ceiling and soft, moody lighting that held all denim and the other that opened up into a cafÊ area that also sold home furnishings. All of the lighting was gentle on the eyes and the music was calm and quiet, as they played John Coltrane, Latin jazz, and easy indie music


I looked in the men’s section knowing how popular his leather jackets are with men and noticed a large amount of blazers, “funky� shoes, interesting suspenders and an incredible amount denim trousers. A lot of the clothes were basic in silhouette but ranged wildly in colour and textile.

Rather than being brand conscientious, buyers seemed to be more concerned with image. The stranger the better. The store was made up of a lot of vintage pieces and rare finds along side indie brands and then the designer piece thrown in. It fit in perfectly with the hipster ideal of be the first to have it, the only to have it, and let it cost a ton of money.

There was such a motley jumble of things, all clashing for attention, it seems almost impossible to stand out from the rest unless your garment is something so absolutely outlandish customers cannot help but stop and stare at it. The store is split up and categorized by garment type rather than brand so finding one designer over another is near impossible. It is unlike a department store where everything is brand new and organized neatly and more like a consignment shop that upsells everything. A lot of vintage pieces that sold for many times more that what they probably originally cost


American Rag Cie

Urban Outfitters

Competitors consist of Urban Outfitters, American Apparel, and Buffalo exchange, all serve the hipster, young adult with a lot of money and the older 50+ crowd looking for vintage and outlandish pieces to make them more and more eclectic. Each sells both original and newly made clothing with vintage pieces and designer clothes thrown into the mix. All are melting pots of whomever can make the most interesting clothing and who can wear the most curious and individual fashions that catch the eye and fit into the street style wear of today. American Apparel

Buffalo Exchange


RICK OWENS

PRPS

CLOSED

Textured Leather Biker Jacket

Hooded Leather Jacket

Cortas Jacket

Poste Leather Jacket

1100USD

1089USD

484USD

2,550USD

RELIGION

RAIF

RICK OWENS

BESPOKEN

CLOSED

Knit Cardigan

Cashmere Turtleneck Top

Shawl Collar Pullover

Poncho

3295USD

1,170USD

505USD

374USD

RICK OWENS Metallic Leather Wedge Ankle Boot

1,770USD

FIORENTINI + BAKER

FIORENTINI + BAKER

MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA

Double Strap Boot

Side Zip Ankle Boot

Ankle Boot

605USD

532USD

515USD (www.amrag.com, www.net-a-porter.com)


I went into American Rag on a Tuesday afternoon because I had been told that they carried Rick Owens clothing only to find out that because the turnover for their stock is so fast, they were not selling Rick Owens clothing at the time. I looked on their website a while back and asked what they usually sold of his and they told me it was usually his leather jackets, sometimes his basic tops, and rarely his shoes, all of these things are unisex clothing. Comparing the American Rag Cie site to one of the only major online stores that sells Rick Owens clothes, Net-a-Porter.com, one can see that the clothes would fit well into the diverse mix as basics and layering pieces and the jackets are standout pieces and are highly coveted. The price range in American Rag as compared to the prices on Net-a-Porter would place Rick Owens’ clothing at the higher end of the scale but not completely out of the store. While Rick Owens does use unusual fabrics and textiles, his clothes are not of the novelty textiles that I saw when I looked through American Rag’s selection. I saw a lot of funky prints, abnormal embroidery, and for some reason, gold lame seemed to be very popular Also there are no plus sizes for both American Rag and Rick Owens. Both offer sizes XXS through Medium and rarely if ever, Large. And in general, the variety of clothes offered by American Rag and Rick Owens run on the small side.



Demographics


Young Digerati Wealthy Younger Family Mix Young Digerati are tech-savvy and live in fashionable neighborhoods on the urban fringe. Affluent, highly educated, and ethnically mixed, Young Digerati communities are typically filled with trendy apartments and condos, fitness clubs and clothing boutiques, casual restaurants and all types of bars--from juice to coffee to microbrew. Social Group: Urban Uptown Lifestage Group: Young Achievers 2010 Statistics: US Households: 1,403,157 (1.21%) Median HH Income: $91,104 Lifestyle Traits -­‐ Order from expedia.com -­‐ Go water skiing -­‐ Read the Economist -­‐ Watch Independent Film Channel -­‐ Audi A3


Demographics Traits Urbanicity:

Urban

Income:

Wealthy

Income Producing Assets:

High

Age Ranges:

25-44

Presence of Kids:

Family Mix

Homeownership:

Mix, Owners

Employment Levels:

Management

Education Levels:

Graduate Plus

Ethnic Diversity:

White, Asian, Hispanic, Mix

Top 15 Lifestyle Behaviors -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐

Travel to Spain/Portugal, 3yr Order from gap.com 1yr Buy from Baja Fresh Mexican Grill, 1mo Shop at Banana Republic, 3mo Order from zappos.com, 1yr Order from J. Crew, 1yr Order from expedia.com, 1yr Travel to Japan/Hong Kong/Other Asia, 3yr Order from orbitz.com, 1yr Order from priceline.com, 1yr Download podcasts/podcasting Online, 1mo Buy from El Torito, 1mo Travel to Ireland/United Kingdom, 3yr Shop at Gap, 3mo Shop at Express, 3mo


Top 15 Media Behaviors -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐

Read The Economist Read Details Read New York Times, Sunday Read W Magazine Read New York Magazine Read Wired Read New York Times, Daily Read Skiing Read The New Yorker Read GQ Read Ski Read Macworld Read In Style

Top 10 Counties -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐

Arlington County, VA New York County, NY San Francisco, CA Alexandria City, VA Santa Clare County, CA District of Columbia, DC Hudson County, NJ Suffolk County, MA San Mateo County, CA Alameda County, CA

(Claritas)



Upper Crust Wealthy Older w/o Kids The nation's most exclusive address, Upper Crust is the wealthiest lifestyle in America--a haven for emptynesting couples between the ages of 45 and 64. No segment has a higher concentration of residents earning over $100,000 a year and possessing a postgraduate degree. And none has a more opulent standard of living. Social Group: Elite Suburbs Lifestage Group: Affluent Empty Nests 2010 Statistics: US Households: 1,775,171 (1.53%) Median HH Income: $121,186 Lifestyle Traits -­‐ Shop at Saks Fifth Ave. -­‐ Belong to country club -­‐ Read Conde Nast Traveler -­‐ Watch Golf Channel -­‐ Mercedes SL Class


Demographics Traits Urbanicity:

Suburban

Income:

Wealthy

Income Producing Assets:

Elite

Age Ranges:

45-64

Presence of Kids:

HH w/o Kids

Homeownership:

Homeowners

Employment Levels:

Management

Education Levels:

Graduate Plus

Ethnic Diversity:

White, Asian, Mix

Top 15 Lifestyle Behaviors -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐

Has Lord & Taylor Credit Card Has Nordstrom Credit Card Shop at Talbots, 3mo Belong to a Country Club Own/Lease New/Used Mercedes Travel to Italy, 3yr Travel to Spain/Portugal, 3yr Shop at Lord & Taylor, 3mo Shop at Saks Fifth Ave, 3mo Shop at Bloomingdales, 3mo Travel to Alaska, 3yr Cruise on Princess, 3yr Use Charles Schwab, 1yr Personal Travel by Airplane, 3+, 1yr Own US Treasury Notes


Top 15 Media Behaviors -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐

Read Washington Post, Sunday All News Radio, Net Audience Read New York Times, Sunday Classical Radio, Net Audience Washington Week, 2-4 Times/mo Newshour w/Jim Lehrer, 3-5 Times/wk Read Veranda National Public Radio, Net Audience Read Wall Street Journal, Daily Read Architectural Digest Read Conde Nast Traveler Read Sunset Read Wine Spectator Read Los Angeles Times, Sunday

Top 10 Counties -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐

Falls Church city, VA Fairfax city, VA Marin County, CA Fairfax County, VA Nassau County, NY Montgomery County, MD Rockland County, NY Montgomery County, PA San Mateo County, CA Bergen County, NJ

(Claritas)



Money And Brains Wealthy Older Family Mix The residents of Money & Brains seem to have it all: high incomes, advanced degrees, and sophisticated tastes to match their credentials. Many of these city dwellers are married couples with few children who live in fashionable homes on small, manicured lots. Social Group: Urban Uptown Lifestage Group: Affluent Empty Nests 2010 Statistics: US Households: 2,281,156 (1.96%) Median HH Income: $93,457 Lifestyle Traits -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐

Shop at Nordstrom Contribute to NPR Read Sunday newspaper Watch Ebert & Roeper Jaguar XJL


Demographics Traits: Urbanicity:

Urban

Income:

Wealthy

Income Producing Assets:

Elite

Age Ranges:

45-64

Presence of Kids:

Family Mix

Homeownership:

Mostly Owners

Employment Levels:

Management

Education Levels:

Graduate Plus

Ethnic Diversity:

White, Black, Asian, Hispanic

Top 15 Lifestyle Behaviors -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐

Shop at Bloomingdales, 3mo Shop at Ralphs, 1mo Shop Trader Joes, 1mo Has Nordstrom Credit Card Travel to Eastern Europe, 3yr Drink French Red Wine, 1wk Attend Classical/Opera performance, 1+ Times/month, 1yr Shop at Neiman Marcus, 3mo Shop at Nordstrom, 3mo Use Charles Schwab, 1yr Shop at Longs Drug Store, 6mo Buy from Au Bon Pain, 1mo Travel to Spain/Portugal, 3yr Own/Lease New/Used BMW Shop at Saks Fifth Ave, 3mo


Media Behaviors -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐

Read Los Angeles Times, Sunday Read New York Times, Sunday Read Tribune (8) Weekly All News Radio, Net Audience Ebert & Roeper, 2-4 Times/mo Read The Economist Read The New Yorker Read The Atlantic Read Wall Street Journal, Daily Read New York Magazine Read New York Times, Daily Read Architectural Digest Read Tribune (8) Daily Read Barron's Jazz Radio, Net Audience

Top 10 Counties -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐ -­‐

Richmond County, NY San Mateo County, CA Santa Clara County, CA San Francisco, CA Arlington County, VA New York County, NY Alexandria City, VA Nassau County, NY Alameda County, CA Bergen County, NJ

(Claritas)


Trend Report


Season: Fall 2013 Current Season in Stores: Fall 2012

The Rick Owens target customer is located in the Innovation Introduction Stage of Acceleration. A typically small brand with loyal and dedicated followers, Rick Owens customers buy his clothes for their strange unique qualities, so that they may stand out against a sea of normality in the fashion world. His most popular pieces include his leather jackets and can be seen on almost any celebrity. Usually though, the brand stands on it’s own and does not use celebrity endorsement. Rick Owens and designers similar to him tend to fall outside of the ebb and flow of fashion trends, choosing to create what is precisely on their minds rather than try to predict up-and-coming trends. This makes the designer a choice alternative brand.

Key Silhouettes: Multiple Layers Architectural Flowing Torn edges Sleek Contrast

Key Styling Details: Strange Makeup Messy Hair Sleek Hair


Runway details

Spring RTW 2009

Fall RTW 2010

Fall 2011

Fall RTW 2009

Spring RTW 2011

Spring 2012


Makeup

&Hair


Shoes


Textiles

Cashmere 100% Cashmere

Cotton Jersey 100% Cotton

Fine Jersey 100% Viscose

Nubuck Leather & Jersey 70% Silk 20% Lamb Leather 10% Viscose

Silk Georgette 100% Rayon

Silk-Crepe 100% Silk

Wool 100% Extra-Fine Merino Wool

Silk Jersey 100% Silk

Contrast Leather 42% Cow 31% Lamb 17% Calf


Hammered Silk 100% Silk

Washed Leather 100% Lamb

Wool & Silk Blend 60% Wool 30% Silk

Elaphe Snakeskin 100% Elaphe

Crepe Jersey 44% Acetate 44% Rayon 8% Cotton 4% Nylon

Blistered Leather 100% Lamb (Net-a-Porter)


Louise Nevelson Fashion Leader I think when Rick Owens designs, not only does he look at Louise Nevelson’s sculpture as inspiration, but also possibly the artist herself. On the fringe but never afraid of falling off, Nevelson’s manner of style is almost an exact duplicate of her sculptures. Whether art mimics life or her life mimicked the art she created, we can see a definite pull for Owens, her eccentric style matched her strange and intricate sculptures. Draping, dark and mysterious but with a little bit of extra terrestrial and a little bit of the strange vintage thrown in. Now that she has passed, her work and her style has been immortalized and the inspiration for the next generation of alternative and dark artists.




Trend Forecast


Trendscape Spring Summer 2012

Snow White

Rick Owens

Gareth Pugh

Comme des Garcons

Yohji Yamamoto


Pitch Black

Rick Owens

Gareth Pugh

Comme des Garcons

Yohji Yamamoto


Shades

of

Grey

Rick Owens

Gareth Pugh

Comme des Garcons

Yohji Yamamoto


Grey Tone Prints

Rick Owens

Gareth Pugh

Comme des Garcons

Yohji Yamamoto


Pop

Rick Owens

of

Colour

Gareth Pugh

Comme des Garcons

Yohji Yamamoto



Yaäaburnee Arabic – Both morbid and beautiful at once, this incantatory word means “You bury me,” a declaration of one’s hope that they’ll die before another person because of how difficult it would be to live without them.

áStrange industrialà Fall/Winter 2013

Inspired by:


Marie Chouinard’s

bODY rEMiX

/ gOLDBERG vARiATIONS




New Season Colour Trend Adaption


Rooney Mara Yaäaburnee Line Fashion Leader



Textiles & Materials


Colour References Fall/Winter 2013


Fabric


Technical Designs | Product Category


Product Category & Textiles


Fabrics

Jersey Fibre Content: 100% Cotton Description and Properties: Drapable with a very soft hand, no shine, a staple yarn construction. Cotton Jersey is a light to medium weight, usually not transparent unless it is a light colour over a dark colour and can be pieced dyed, yarn dyed or printed. Typical End Uses: Rick Owens often uses jersey to create layers, pleats, ruching, and interesting textures to contrast against other fabrics.


Cashmere Fibre Content: 100% Cashmere Description and Properties: Somewhat drapable with an extremely soft hand, no shine, and staple yarn construction. Cashmere can be light to heavy-weight, is not transparent, and can be piece dyed or yarn dyed. Typical End Uses: Rick Owens uses cashmere to create soft backdrops to his more interesting pieces.

Silk Fibre Content: 100% Silk Description and Properties: Drapable with a smooth hand, very shiny and a protein filament yarn construction. Silk and it’s various spun methods is usually light weight, usually not transparent unless it is a light colour over a dark colour and can be piece dyed or printed, Typical End Uses: Rick Owens uses silk for movement, flow, and layering.


Leather Fibre Content: 100% Leather (Cow, Lamb, Calf) Description and Properties: Somewhat soft to stiff depending on the tanning process, can be shiny or matte, is a tanned hide. Leather is usually medium to heavy weight, is not transparent and can be piece dyed or printed. Typical End Uses: Leather as the main staple of his line, the most popular of his clothes, the quintessential Rick Owens leather jacket.


Time Action Calendar



CitationS Browne, Alix. "Rick Owens | Making His Own Bed."New York Times. 5 May 2010: n. page. Web. 6 Feb. 2012. <http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/05/05/rick-owens-making-his-ownbed/?pagemode=print>. “Behind the Brand: Rick Owens” Net-a-Porter. Web. 23 Feb 2012. http://www.net-aporter.com/Shop/Designers/Rick_Owens Claritas. "Money & Brains." My Best Segments. Nielsen. Web. 19 Jan. 2012. <http://www.claritas.com/MyBestSegments/Content/tabs/filterMenuFrameWork.jsp?page=../Segme nts/snapshot.jsp&menuid=91&submenuid=911>. Claritas. "Upper Crust." My Best Segments. Nielsen. Web. 19 Jan. 2012. <http://www.claritas.com/MyBestSegments/Content/tabs/filterMenuFrameWork.jsp?page=../Segme nts/snapshot.jsp&menuid=91&submenuid=911>. Claritas. "Young Digerati." My Best Segments. Nielsen. Web. 19 Jan. 2012. <http://www.claritas.com/MyBestSegments/Content/tabs/filterMenuFrameWork.jsp?page=../Segme nts/snapshot.jsp&menuid=91&submenuid=911>. Foreman, Katya. "A Bridge Too Far ." Women. 26 Sep 2011: n. page. Web. 6 Feb. 2012. <http://www.wwd.com.subscriptions.fidm.com/menswear-news/designer-luxury/a-bridge-too-far5196645/print-preview/>. Owens Corp. Web. 6 Feb. 2012 <Owenscorp.com> "Rules of Style from Rick Owens"Details. N.p., Web. 6 Feb 2012. < http://www.details.com/style-advice/rulesof-style/200903/rules-of-style-from-designer-rick-owens/>. Tung, Jennifer. "Straight Outta Cali." LA Times. Sep 2008: n. page. Web. 6 Feb. 2012. <http://www.latimesmagazine.com/2008/09/rick-owens-fashion.html>.


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