Styling Hair & Grooming Beards Has Never Been Easier!
CONTENTS ON THE COVER
20 Styling Hair And Grooming Beards Has Never Been Easier with M&U Imports
REGULARS 08 Editors Letter 60 New Gear 62 Dateline City 66 Final Say
FEATURE
10-12 Abbas Ahmadifard By Rex A.C. Silver 14 Spotlight On Eoin McCarthy 22-25 The Artist And The Photographer With Rex A.C. Silver 26-29 His Yard… His Rules With Rex A.C. Silver 30-33 Ash Weller – The Hot Shots House Experience 34 Social Media International Barber of the Year – Frank Ciccone By Rex A.C. Silver
COVER
PROFILE
16 Mullet Masters 18 Lady Memphis 36 The Colour Evolution
PRODUCT PROFILE 38 Men’s Hair Fashion Trends With muk Haircare 40 Refresh And Restore
AHIA MENS HAIR SPECIALIST OF THE YEAR FINALISTS
44-45 Anthony Staltari, Barbery Australia 46-47 Johnny Georgioi, Barbery The Craft Of A Barber 48-49 Tarik Jašarević, Mr. T Salon 50-51 Timothy Pascoe, Tim Pascoe Hair 52-53 Tom White, Same Same But Different
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BLOGS
56 Shopping The Look By Paul Frasca 57 Building Your Empire By Don De Sanctis 58 R.E.S.P.E.C.T By Collette Saunders
HEALTH
59 Does Beard Oil Cause Acne By Dr Ben De Campo – Milkman Grooming Co
BUSINESS
64 How Can You Prepare For Facebook’s iOS 14.5 Update By George Hawwa
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www.muimports.com.au
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A brand new initiative giving men’s hairdressers and barbers a platform to showcase their creative and business skills
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CATEGORIES Photographic and Submission Australian Modern Barber of the Year Australian Modern Barber Business of the Year NOMINATED CATEGORY Special Recognition PHOTOGRAPHIC ONLY Best Men’s Collection Classic Best Men’s Collection Freestyle Best Team Collection Best Men’s Collection Junior
BUSINESS CATEGORIES Best Director/Owner of the Year Best Customer Care Best Men’s Educator of the Year Best Barbershop Design of the Year
CLEAN SKIN PROFESSIONAL PRODUCT AWARDS CATEGORIES HAIR CARE - Best Shampoo and Conditioner pair or 2-in-1 product HAIR STYLE - Best Styling Product. Entries can include:- Styling Wax, Cream or Paste BEARD CARE - Best Beard Care Product. Entries can include:- Oil, Wax, Cream or Paste
ENTRY DEADLINE 2nd August 2021
FINALISTS ANNOUNCED 20th September 2021
OFFICIAL
AFTER PARTY 11PM TILL LATE AWARDS NIGHT 7th November 2021 Plaza Ballroom, Melbourne
BARBER SHOP WWW.AUSTRALIANMODERNBARBERAWARDS.COM.AU
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BARBER SHOP PUBLISHER
Linda Woodhead linda@mochapublishing.com.au
EDITOR
Rex Silver rex@mochapublishing.com.au
ADVERTISING MANAGER Nina Barbara nina@mochapublishing.com.au
ART DIRECTOR
Kellie Woodhead kellie@mochapublishing.com.au
CONTRIBUTORS Rex A.C. Silver Sofie Pok Ash Weller Paul Frasca Don De Sanctis Collette Saunders George Hawwa
OFFICE
PO BOX 252 Helensvale Plaza Qld 4212 P: 07 5580 5155 F: 07 5580 5166 mail@mochapublishing.com.au www.mochapublishing.com.au
editor’s letter BLINK, WE ARE HALFWAY THROUGH THE YEAR ALREADY, HOW YOU! DOIN’? The challenges have been many, but I can see that for most of you, you have risen above, and, while it may not be completely business-as-usual for you all, your resilience is making your business model adaptations prosper, and you should all be recognised for that, well done! As promised, leading closer to our inaugural Australian Modern Barber Awards this November, this issue is jam packed with insights, advise and tips on how to approach a shoot to document your work, to help you get motivated to prepare and submit a body of your work in the form of a ‘Collection’ or ‘Story’ in the AMBA’s. Kudos to those who are entering Business categories and to all of you who are putting themselves out there to be judged by your peers. The Best of Luck to You All!
DISTRIBUTION
We are all creatives, and we all have our own approach to our work. The vision in our mind on how we would like to translate that idea to images that we can share to others, can be the tricky piece, but it doesn’t have to be a wall. Embrace it as another creative challenge.
PRINTING
In this issue, we have 1 subject and 2 creatives who have 2 very different ways of approaching documenting your work in photographs.
Australia Post - Print Post 100005498
Printcraft
PUBLISHED BY mocha publishing
PUBLISHERS OF
HAIR BIZ, Beauty Biz and Barber Shop
Barber Shop is published four times a year by mocha publishing ABN 65 091 846 189 No Part of the publication may be reproduced in any manner or form without written permission. Barber Shop does not accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies, original artwork or other material. The views expressed in Barber Shop are not necessarily those of the publisher. No responsibility will be accepted if the publication is delayed or prevented by factors beyong the control of the publisher. No responsibility will be accepted for errors in copy, or for any loss arising from the failure of an advertisement or any part thereof to appear. © 2020 mocha publishing All rights reserved.
Some of you may not have access or the opportunity to enlist the help of a photographer. For that, I called upon our USA Correspondent and 2 x US Barber of the Year Sofie Pok AKA Staygold to share her approach. One day, Sofie picked up the camera and started shooting her work herself, now, she can’t see it any other way. It’s opened new ways of looking at her work creatively, but it has also brought with it new challenges. Sofie is an amazing creative, and her article is inspiring. Let’s go the other way, some creatives would never dream of not using a photographer, our EU Correspondent Robert Van Rietveld AKA Bertus of Schorem Barbier Rotterdam, the Netherlands, is one of them. Not for any other reason than (on being the Photographer) “it just doesn’t get my creative juices going” says Rob, who shares his thoughts on documenting a body/series of his work; a “Story”, the word Rob prefers to describe over the term ‘Collection’, and shares on how to trust other professionals in the room, even though it’s your creative vision. We also get an ‘exclusive to BarberShop!’ One of Rob’s signature ‘9 looks-1 model’ shoot! A most hilarious, entertaining and informative interview with Rob. Speaking of creative visions, this issue is also jam packed with some amazing imagery, from some truly gifted artists. We have the Finalists Collections
for the Men’s Hair Specialist Category for the AHIA CREATIVE on display for your consideration, see if you can pick the winner! We have a selection of work from a very gifted artist, Abbas Amardifard. Please, marvel at his craft, it may not tick everyone’s boxes, but read his story and then have another look. We shine a light in this issue on Rhia ‘Rebel’ Moulds of Little Rebel Barber Shops Melbourne, and we are treated to some images of her work which I am truly a major fan of. Also, we go to Gympie, Queensland, to meet Lady Memphis and Memphis Barbers. A barber shop gaining as much notoriety in regional Queensland as some of its famous tourist attractions. Australian Correspondent Ash Weller wraps up his experience at The Hot Shots House in Melbourne with captivating images and a story to match and we talk to Melbourne’s Celebrity Barber Frank Ciccone who just took out International Barber of the Year at this year’s UK SMHB Awards. There is so much more within in these pages I haven’t even touched on; business tips, new products and gear, if you haven’t noticed. Last issue we increased in size to meet the growth of this exciting industry and you can certainly expect more from us in the future; more from this industry of choice, which industry experts say, will be worth annually 81 Billion Dollars by 2024. (source Statista USA) There has never been a more exciting time to be Barber!! This is issue 10/2 Enjoy!!
Rex Silver
Rex Silver @rex.a.c.silver Editor – Barbershop Magazine
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PROFESSIONAL TRIMMER
LITHIUM
ION BATTERY
80 minute run time Powerful 7000 rpm Rotary Motor Premium Carbon Steel Blades DESIGNED FOR PROFESSIONAL USE
American Barber Haircare
american_barber_haircare
(03) 9555 1533 | sales@muimports.com.au | www.muimports.com.au | 662 South Rd, Moorabbin Victoria 3189 Australia
STAR PROFILE
Abbas Ahmadifard BY REX A.C. SILVER
10 Barber Shop Year 10 Issue 2
I have been working to bring this artists work to you for a good 6 months. It was extremely difficult to do for a host of reasons but with the aid of some contacts (friends of BarberShop in London) and through translation apps. and a lot of perseverance and messages…we got there! His work speaks for itself and the answers he gives to the 10 simple questions I ask will leave you as awestruck as his creations - BarberShop has the eye! Just in these last weeks it has been announced Abbas has become a World Ambassador for Level3 products out of the USA, a great achievement. How old are you? I am 28 years old Where do you live? I live in Iran When did you start Barbering? 5 Years Ago Please tell us about your training as a Barber. I did not study anywhere. I taught myself, but I teach my experiences in my work scientifically and technically internationally (online and soon, in person) Much practice has caused me to reach this level of my work. , cont’d on page 12 11 Barber Shop Year 10 Issue 2
cont’d from page 11
Do you perform the hair colour work yourself or do you have a colourist? I do all the hair colour Tell us where you get your creative inspiration from... Inspiration is part of the human imagination and happens subconsciously and I think imitation and creation are two separate things. I just believe in the feeling and let it do what it want’s, and I get rid of the fear. In the end I get a wonderful result. Tell us about becoming a Level3 World Ambassador... This cooperation is very exciting. Do you have a Barbershop or Studio? I work from a studio. When travel is allowed again around the world would you like to come to Australia? When travel opens up and all countries are vaccinated, I definitely plan to travel the world to give master classes. Anything you would like to share with our Australian Barbers who admire your work? Do a great job and advertise as much as you can. If you think about money it will distance itself from you, follow your dream and money will come to you. Hair and Colour and Styling @abbas_ ahmadifard Photography @saeed.ahmadifard
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BECOME THE MASTER OF YOUR CRAFT Choose from live online classes or in-studio courses
Education is the passport to the future, for tomorrow belongs to those who prepare for it today - Malcolm X
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*In association with Haircare Group
SPOTLIGHT ON EOIN MCCARTHY
INTERNATIONAL EDUCATOR & BRAND AMBASSADOR FOR ANDIS
When Irish eyes are smiling Eoin McCarthy is a 27 year old Hair Stylist from Cork, Ireland who is a relative newcomer to the industry after a career as a professional cyclist in Europe. When retiring from pro cycling Eoin took interest in the world of hair inspired by his mother Mairead who is a very successful hairdresser. Although influenced by hairdressing, Eoin focused fully on men’s hair and in his first year cutting he was awarded the title of 2016 Irish Barbering Apprentice of the Year. After 1 year of working in Ireland, Eoin set his sights on Australia and found himself a job at Area Studio. Eoin then had an opportunity to expand his skill set and find his unique style of men’s haircutting in a multitalented international team of stylists at Area Studio. Within his time in Australia he has picked up many more awards including the Victorian Barber of the Year for 2017 after placing 1st in the Victorian/SA Live Barber Battle. He placed two times second place at the 2017 HBIA Australian Hairdressing Championships in the Men’s Trend and Men’s Sport live cutting competitions and contributed to Area Studio winning the HBIA Independent Salon of the Year for both 2017 and 2018, and was most recently Runner-Up in the 2019 HBIA Men’s Trend Competition. Almost 5 years into his career Eoin is now an International Educator and Brand Ambassador for Andis Clippers and Brand Ambassador for Osaka Scissors in Australia. 14 Barber Shop Year 10 Issue 2
Eoin actively educates and demonstrates at many hair exhibitions in Australia and Worldwide such as the Asian Hair Expo (China) 2018 as well as having been a part of Hair Expo Australia’s Education Programme presenting his ‘Perspective’ seminar helping thousands of other hair professionals to learn and grow. Eoin has worked with many celebrity clients such as music artists such as Raekwon from Wu-Tang Clan and Denzel Curry as well as many Australian sporting stars. Most notably cutting hair at Justin Bieber’s Purpose World Tour, The Weekend’s Starboy World Tour and Post Malone’s World Tour. In 2020, Eoin has had his introduction into the editorial side of the industry by creating his first collection ‘Unity in Diversity’, which featured in internationally renowned magazine Estetica as well as multiple magazines in The Netherlands and the UK. In 2020 Eoin was also nominated as Finalist for the International Visionary Awards, World Barber of the Year, Irish Best of the Best and AHFA Industry Choice Awards. 2020 saw the creation of AREA Academy in which Eoin is Director and Co-owner. This was a long-term ambition of Eoin’s and being so passionate about having a positive influence on the industry, we spoke to him about his role with Andis as well as his career in general and what the future holds.
What made you make the move to Australia? It came about somewhat accidentally. I have family in Adelaide and due to my previous lifestyle, I never had the chance to come and see them. My cousin was getting married, so I thought it was a good opportunity to come over. At that point I felt like I’d reached my potential at home, so a change was welcomed. I applied for a working holiday visa, did my research and Melbourne was my destination of choice. Tell us a little about how you landed a job with Area Studio? I got the job at Area Studio through a big inspiration of mine, Josh Lamonaca of Menspire. I did one of Menspire’s courses before coming to Australia and I knew that they had just been here for Hair Expo, so I asked Josh’s advice. He immediately contacted my now boss and business partner Jordon McKenny and I was in Area Studio 6 weeks later. Since joining Area I’ve had the most amazing opportunities to work with some of the most diverse and best barbers/ men’s stylists in the industry. It’s been amazing! Now in the strange year of 2020 we founded Area Academy. This was an ambition of mine since the Menspire course in 2016. I’ve found myself in an up-skilling educational role for the last 3 years and now we are ready to take it to a new level. What do you love about educating? I genuinely just love helping other people in discovering and reaching their potential. I don’t feel achieved unless someone else is on the journey with me. Educating puts me in a position where I am surrounded by like-minded people who are passionate about our industry and have a growth mindset without ego. I also love the fact that whilst I am educating, I am always growing and learning myself. When you teach something, you learn it twice... So, get involved people! You are helping yourself ultimately. How does education differ overseas to Australia? I guess education is quite a universal thing, however I feel like the context changes depending on language and culture. The internet and especially Instagram has helped us create more unity in our industry worldwide therefore I feel like it doesn’t really differ too much overseas. What is it you love about competitions and awards in the industry? I love the creative thought process behind them.
I try not to think about it from a competitive standpoint but rather a deadline for personal growth and creativity. Just a medium to give me a little push in the right direction. Quite obviously, there can be a lot of ego associated with the awards and competitions, but it’s never really felt like that for me. I used to cycle full time and I think I’ve exhausted my competitiveness through that. However, it is nice to be recognised for hard work and I think it adds credibility to what we are now trying to do with the Academy. Tell us a little about your recent collection. ‘Unity in Diversity’ showcases diversification within current and upcoming male hair trends and the sense of unity within the multicultural society of Melbourne. It is a concept of unity without uniformity and diversity without fragmentation, that shifts focus from unity based on a mere tolerance of physical, cultural, linguistic, social, religious, political, ideological and/or psychological differences towards a more complex unity based on an understanding that difference enriches human interactions. How did you get involved in being part of the crew for The Weekend and Post Malone tours? The owner of Area Studio, Jordon McKenny, has built a reputation of being Melbourne’s goto celebrity barber and he tends to cut a lot of big names when they tour in Australia. Due to learning his trade at an Afro-Caribbean barber shop in London and his meticulous attention to detail, he has built a network which enables him to land gigs such as these. Working at these shows really opened my eyes to the possibilities within hair. Being so close to some of the world’s biggest names in music seemed impossible whilst living in Ireland. It just shows, you can really direct your career in any way you desire. How did the Ambassador role for Andis come about and what does it involve? My role with Andis came about at Hair Expo in 2017. That’s where we first met the team from America, and they were setting up Australia’s first ever education team. I was thrown in the deep end and had my first experience demonstrating my work on their stand before then doing some more 15 Barber Shop Year 10 Issue 2
online trials. Shortly afterwards I was offered a place on the Global Education Team which comes with the Ambassadorship also. I now actively educate, demonstrate and showcase my work as a representative of Andis across Australia and Internationally. What do you love most about the Andis range? It’s diversity. You can’t build a beautiful house with only a hammer; you need a lot of different tools to achieve different results. In saying that, I like to keep it relatively simple. What is your Andis go-to tool of choice and why? Tough choice, however, I got to say the Supra ZR with the 00000 ceramic blade. When doing a high volume of skin fades, I like to use the Supra to create my skin line and clear out bulk. It’s high power and efficiency helps me save time on each haircut. Where do you see yourself in 5 years’ time? If my next 5 years is anything like my last, who bloody knows! I may not even be cutting hair! Visas can be difficult to attain these days, but I would hope to still be in Australia and have the Academy built to a reputable point where it’s my full-time job. Ultimately, I would just hope to be in a place in my life where my partner and I are happy. Our happiness is all that really matters.
Some fun…
Favourite destination: The west of Ireland (when the sun rarely shines) Favourite drink: Jameson Dry and Lime Favourite Meal: Can’t beat a good Pizza...
Mullet Masters
Little Rebel Barbershop was created so that likeminded people could thrive, create and be their best selves. All are welcome, everyone is treated equally, and everyone respects each other and the space, and what’s more; prices are based on service not gender. Owner Rhia ’REBEL’ Moulds, started in the industry back in Nottingham UK, where she grew up, entering into a hairdressing apprenticeship with Toni&Guy in 2000, and completing 2 years of her apprenticeship before she emigrated to Australia. Completing further education at Biba Academy in Melbourne and working in and around the Fitzroy and Melbourne’s north as a hair stylist and barber, Rhia continued working in barbering and short creative cutting over the next few years.
Rhia ’REBEL’ Moulds “I had a small clientele of people that did not necessarily fit in, feel comfortable or were not welcome to enter into the barbershops because of a gender divide or the environment,” says Rhia. “My home clientele was rapidly growing and in 2015 I took a rent a chair position. At the time I had no plans to grow a business. I was having fun cutting hair, being creative and being around people who felt comfortable in my space. I planned to travel/move back to the UK/Europe within a few years. The next thing I know there’s other barbers that want to work alongside me and I soon developed into a team.” When did you open the shop? I opened Little Rebel, Collingwood in August 2017. A large double shop on Smith Street. It used to be a 6-chair shop but
when Covid hit I removed 2 chairs to comply with the social distancing rules leaving us with 4 and plenty of waiting space. My business was closed for over 5 months in in total due to the coronavirus pandemic. I did most of the renovations on Little Rebel, Preston, during Melbourne’s lock down. We were set to open 1st June but with a recent fire in the property it is possible it will be pushed back slightly. What a year!? it seems that very quickly, you have developed a signature look that has refined itself, again, very quickly and is instantly recognisable as your work. Where did this come from and how do you fine tune the looks you are doing? I love to create and build shapes; I was the quiet kid in the corner painting and sculpting things with my hands. I have always been creative; I’m constantly inspired by pushing boundaries with cutting techniques and styling. I guess it’s similar to making art as a child, it follows through in my adult life it gives me that child-like kick. Growing up in the 80’s and 90’s in the UK my style is influenced by a love for subculture music and fashion which is also connected with queer culture. I call mine the “Rebel Mullet.” I started seriously cutting mullets around 6/7 years ago maybe 1-2 per day, these days it’s more like 7-8 (different variations.) You are obviously resonating with many fans of your work it’s like you’re starting a cult, how does that feel? It feels wonderful to inspire others, have my work recognised and to give my community a louder voice. If feels like my hard work is paying off. If equality and creativity is a ‘cult’ then so be it! There needs to be more Little Rebels in the world, there needs to be more job opportunities for trans and queer people and there needs to be more safe equal spaces! The influence you have on your staff is evident too, do you collab with them on your designs or are you driving this ‘new wave”? Of course, I influence my staff. When I was a young hairdresser my mentors were the key factor in fuelling my passion for creative precision cutting so I understand the importance and need for inspiring my staff. I do set high standards. Creative
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passionate individuals do well within Little Rebel & they often also inspire me. Are you aware of Melbourne’s long romantic fascination with the Mullet? The mullet is the ultimate rebel haircut. It dates back centuries with no gender binaries attached just rebellion. Let’s talk who or what influences you creatively, barber or hair mentors, artists, music, art or fashion history? Subculture fashions and music. Punks, goths, nonmainstream fashions and home haircuts. Non gender conforming people, drag artists, various movies made in the 80’s. Possibly strange but true, food, plants and animals. You are incorporating colour into your work, is that opening up more options to express your creativity? Yes, we are expanding out into colour work this is to add another layer of creativity to our work as well as keeping our clients happy. There is a high demand for creative colour work at Little Rebel. Tell us a little about your recent involvement with the Jack Reed Foundation in QLD. My trip to Queensland was a great opportunity to educate alongside some of Australia’s best educators and barbers. It
was quite inspirational and an excellent opportunity to help raise funds for The Jack Reed Foundation. As a solo small business owner, it can be hard to find time for voluntary work with the community. This is something I miss and is on the cards for the not-so-distant future. I am also starting to educate outside of Little Rebel which is exciting to inspire others with my work. Can you describe your cutting technique? I mainly use scissor cutting techniques with some clipper work. I barely use clipper guards and prefer to visually cut with scissor or clipper over comb after building a strong structured shape. I use various scissor brands and sizes. I’ve recently been trying out the new Gamma plus range from Europe which I bloody love! BARBER FAMILY You read correctly; the Preston shop suffered fire damage last week before we went to print just, weeks before it was due to re-open after lockdown and renovations. Please keep up to speed with the progress of that situation on their socials and let’s support Rhia and her staff through this. @little_rebel_barbershop @rhia_rebel_barber
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LADY MEMPHIS WHERE: MEMPHIS BARBERS, 247 MARY STREET GYMPIE, QLD. THE TEAM: STACY EDWARDS AKA LADY MEMPHIS, BRAIDYN, BRIDEE AND CJ. THE VIBE: LOUD, PROUD AND BOUNCY WITH BOY’S CLUB BANTER.
When you walk into Memphis Barbers, you immediately feel the high-level energy and charismatic personality of owner-operator, Stacy Edwards, known as Lady Memphis. The funky décor exudes a vibe reminiscent of the bustling streets of Melbourne and evolved from the humble beginnings of a country girl with a street-smart wit growing up in the regional town of Gympie, 45 minutes north of Noosa in Queensland. Recently celebrating her establishment’s third birthday, Lady Memphis created Memphis Barbers with the vision of bringing new energy and a unique modern boutique barbershop into a progressive town on the verge of high growth and development. Stacy started small, in a one-chair shop nearby, and after six months realised, she was going to need a bigger shop. “I have always been known as Lady Memphis and I wanted my own funky Barber, so that’s where the name Memphis Barbers stems from.” said Stacy. The current location is testament to Stacy’s knowledge and understanding of her target audience and the local economic environment. The Memphis team consists of Lady Memphis herself, our talented apprentice’s 2nd Year, Braidyn and 1st Year CJ. We also have our Admin/ Marketing Assistant Bridee. The Gympie community has embraced Lady Memphis and her team, not only because of their loud, proud and bouncy vibe with boy’s club banter, but also the passion for small business and embedded community engagement Lady Memphis brings to her home town. Memphis Barbers proudly sponsors numerous local sporting clubs, charity events and festivals, the internationally renowned Gympie Music Muster among them. As an ambassador for Female Barbers, Lady Memphis also had the privilege of being asked to judge the FEIBI Awards back in 2019. This experience ignited her passion to host her own prestige awards event – 2020 Year of the Mullet Competition. The event was a huge success based on her vision, promotion and team dedication. Stacy is dedicated to ensuring that her clients have access to largest range of men’s grooming and barbering products in the region. She is constantly updating stock and is currently promoting a wide range of products including Milkman, Melbourne Beard Oil, Proraso, Layrite, Uppercut and Slick Gorilla. Her passion also lies in supporting new products to the market and welcomes the opportunity to promote them to her customers. “The barber world is such an uplifting industry and I love that everyone has each other’s back. Being in a small-town environment, motivation comes from knowing that people come to us from all over, for great quality service and style. Our signature service would be that we are renowned for our love and execution of traditional barbering and gentlemen’s grooming” said Lady Memphis. For years, Lady Memphis has been inspired by so many greats in the industry. She is particularly drawn to the aesthetics of the UK-based old school barber world. Traditional barbering with attention to detail, fashion, style and way of life. She has always looked up to industry icons such as Jimmy Rods from Jimmy Rods Barber, Ben Susskind from Slicks, all the guys from Barber Brands International, Paul Valentine from Tarakona Brand Agency and Collette from Australian Female Barbers. “Every single one of them has their own strong and unique sense of style,” says Lady Memphis. “They hold themselves at an extremely high level in the barbering world and they have all succeeded by being themselves.” It is their encouragement of uniqueness and individuality, which she realises is so important in the industry. For Lady Memphis it has helped her have the confidence in herself to achieve what she has while bolstering the success of Memphis Barbers and the Lady Memphis brand. Lady Memphis is always creating new opportunities and experiences for her customers and the latest is the addition of the Jackie Club at Memphis Barbers. The Jackie Club is a private beer garden-style venue at the back of Memphis Barbers where Lady Memphis and the team can unwind, network and enjoy the company of their customers in a social environment, with banging beats and BYO beverages. Check out the Memphis Barbers Facebook or Insta pages for opening times. All in all, Memphis Barbers is THE PLACE TO BE… A place to hang-out, get an amazing haircut, enjoy a beer and some classic banter with the team.
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COVER STORY
Styling Hair and Grooming Beards
Has Never Been Easier!
American Barber has been designed to specifically target the needs of the barbering industry and now exists to support the growing industry of male grooming and styling. The demands have never been so great and this proudly Australian owned and designed company continues to successfully lead in a male dominated demand marketplace. Included in the American Barber range is a selection of various styling products and professional tools which transcend from barbers to home, giving the industry and its clients a fresh and affordable range of products to maintain their desired look on a day-to-day basis, also allowing the chance to mix it up also. And for the barbers there is now the CLIPMASTER clippers and the ZERO GAP trimmers which have been hugely successful since their launch. We spoke to barbershop owner, Benito from Forbici Styles, South Australia, about the brand
CAN YOU TELL US A LITTLE ABOUT YOUR HISTORY AND THE BARBERSHOP AS IT IS TODAY?
I started my journey as a Barber at the age of 14 following my father’s footsteps. I had passion for styling hair as a boy, and watching my father cut hair in his barbershop, inspired me, at the end of my apprenticeship, to go out and open Forbici Styles in North Adelaide. The next venture was out at Golden Grove
shopping centre and I have been here since 2005. The business grew rapidly, i started employing professional barbers to join my pride and joy. We aspire to continue to be a friendly atmosphere where everyone is welcome. As a barbershop we offer a collective of over 241 years of experience in barbering! We specialise in Taper cuts, Flattops, beards and skin fades; all the latest haircuts you could imagine and offer only high-quality standards being open 7 Days with no appointment necessary.
WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE AMERICAN BARBER PRODUCT AND WHY?
HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN USING AMERICAN BARBER?
Visually speaking, the product packaging is very eye catching with the pops of colours on the tins and the rest of the range still colour coded, but with a classy, sleek looking range with a great price point. As a business owner, I can offer good quality products at affordable prices, which, in turn is a win-win for both my business and my customers.
We have been using American Barber now for around 3 years. We started out with the very first range they released. Soon after, with the release of more fantastic retail products and now professional tools with the CLIPMASTER clipper & ZERO GAP trimmers, I cannot look past the quality and service American Barber keeps delivering.
The American Barber styling paste, smells amazing, it is easily worked through the hair and does not leave the hair looking or feeling greasy. The fact that the styling products are water soluble is a massive bonus for us and our clients.
WHAT MAKES AMERICAN BARBER STAND OUT FROM THE REST?
@Forbicistyles For more information on American Barber contact www.muimports.com.au
20 Barber Shop Year 10 Issue 2
CLIPMASTER
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LITHIUM
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160 minute run time Powerful 7000 rpm Rotary Motor Premium Carbon Steel Blades DESIGNED FOR PROFESSIONAL USE
American Barber Haircare
american_barber_haircare
(03) 9555 1533 | sales@muimports.com.au | www.muimports.com.au | 662 South Rd, Moorabbin Victoria 3189 Australia
US CORRESPONDENT SOFIE POK AKA STAYGOLD
THE ARTIST AND THE PHOTOGRAPHER WITH REX.A.C.SILVER
“If you want to go fast, go alone. If you want to go far, we go together.”
Sofie aka StayGold has developed a love for shooting her own creations, which both enhances the realisation of the outcome of the idea she has in her mind. In this issue we talk to her about the challenges playing both roles present in delivering that vision to reality for her. Timely indeed, leading into the Australian Modern Barber Awards, as she shares her creative process of shooting and documenting her work. We spoke about how many barbers in today’s world like to think they are a little savvy in taking images of their work, celebrating and sharing to the universe great haircuts on social media. Shots from the chair are important and will always be relevant when we are wanting to show technical skill, but styling creations and shooting the work in a more controlled studio setting or location setting, is more about presenting the artistic side of the craft, presenting the same model, same haircut, in a vastly different way and opens us up to a whole new world, especially when it comes to award entries! Can you tell us about the change in mindset when taking a great image of a haircut in a technical sense as opposed to a creative sense. Having a camera for your work is the bare minimum required for an up-todate portfolio/aesthetic for socials. Before I got into photography, I was only shooting with my iPhone 4 at the time to build my work portfolio to get clients. What I quickly learned was how much flaws in captured and it allowed me to look at hair differently as I grew into new stages. It helps you build a technical eye that is required if you want to grow in this craft. You can’t fix what you can’t see. I dove in a little deeper into photography actually during the pandemic. Crazily enough, having that down time allowed me to really focus and take courses to understand. Although I’ve been shooting for at least 5 years, the last 1.5 is more INTENTIONAL practice. Shooting behind the chair is a fun one for me because I can focus and highlight exactly what I want to express to viewers. A super clean fade or taper that I spent so much time on to get right, I can capture at a 45-degree angle to showcase that detail. A nice side profile always looks great with a nice haircut or a simple straight on shot to capture overall shape and facial expression. Gives it character when you can find a way to make clients feel comfortable enough to loosen up in front of the cam. Not an easy task to do EVEN FOR MYSELF. Controlled studio photography is also a whole new game lol Lighting is massive and it’s something I’m diving into a lot right now. In my experience so far, it requires a different type of learning because you are controlling all the light angles to hit your subject and how you want people to feel when they see the images. Moody, bright, beauty, dark…the creativity is at your fingertips the more you dabble into it. You’ll learn so much that it’ll improve your shots behind the chair. How big of a jump was it for you when you used your first pro camera to shoot your work over your mobile camera? I remember after getting tired of my iPhone 4 because you can only do so much with it. I wanted to elevate what I did so I knew I had to invest in what was next. My entry level Canon T3i. I didn’t know much about camera gear but by reading reviews and asking a few friends I knew what they have heard about and that was fairly a common choice when starting. From the get go, definitely more than 1 button to press lol You’re now shooting in manual mode, colour profiles, white balance …ISO, F-stop, shutter speed…like what is this foreign language? cont’d on page 24 23 Barber Shop Year 10 Issue 2
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Let’s not forget all the different lenses that all do different things my mind was overwhelmed, but much like everything else, baby steps, right? Day by day I kept shooting with it until I got it to look how I wanted which I pulled references from google and social media accounts I followed. Once I got the hang of it, my entire portfolio looked like what I thought was a magazine at the time lol Compared to my co-workers, I was ahead of the curve. I was new in the barbering world so having those high-quality shots definitely helped me gain trust with new clients. Right as they started to get better, my photos got shared with big accounts and that’s when I started to get more noticed on Instagram. Fast forward to today, if I only had iPhone photos of haircuts, I can’t imagine how they would stand out from all the amazing pages of barbers and hairstylist who use cameras. It’s important to have your best work be represented well not only for your craft, but for clients, athletes, celebrities, and future opportunities Do you prefer shooting in a studio or on location? If I had to choose between studio or location, I’m going to say studio. There’s just something elegant about capturing with great lighting and planned shots. If I’m not shooting hair, I do like shooting people outdoors. Being a vampire for so many years and cutting hair always inside, I’ve finally pushed myself to also pursue photography and what I do love is that it’s always in new places with new lighting situations to figure out. Makes it fun. Back to hair though, lighting is important if you are trying to capture fades and tapers. I did an Instagram pole about how much lighting affects the results of a fade and the average answer was 80%. I’ve cut in many shops all over and I remember working at this beautiful salon and the lighting was so dim no matter how much I knew my process I simply couldn’t perform my best fade as usual. I honestly felt like I had to GUESS sometimes. A bit crazy to feel if you ask me. Another time, a shop with super warm lights coming from the stations and then the regular daylight from the windows making the colour balance mess with my vision. Like I just couldn’t see clear. I’ve done a few house calls in the past without my light and I was honestly stressing through it. I never go without having it with me. If you are in one location cutting, you can adjust over time to that type of lighting but if you’re on the go, it can be difficult. One more thing I gotta mention, cutting at hair shows - completely different lighting. You have top light from the convention casting shadows that you gotta work with. Bottom line, it can’t be so bright you don’t see shadows and it can’t be so dim cuz you simply can’t see the transitions. SO YES, lighting is important. lol How do you prepare for a collection; do you storyboard a theme with a pre-conceived idea? Or see the models and let them (as artistic muses) direct you to a theme for a collective body of work? I haven’t done too many collections. Mainly singles. If I ever get a few at a time, it’s when we have some assistance, but I’m normally shooting and cutting alone, but I do love getting people to come alive in their own way. Capturing them in a way that they might not have known they could look like. Very similar to how I feel when doing a haircut on someone. This question does get me thinking about doing something like that in the near future so thank you Rex! Congratulations on being a Judge at our Australian Modern Barber Awards!! Are you excited? Is this your first time on an International Judging panel? YES!! And thank you for having me! I’ve done many USA panels, so I am excited to do one for another country and see all the great work! Any tips or advice to the guys here who are about to embark on their first serious crack at being Artist and Photographer to submit their Collection for the awards? My first award from entering photos I didn’t plan on winning, but I did! So just off that, you never know, so take that chance and just try. During my 2nd entry the following year, I came in top 5 and lost the barbering category. I wanted to go for a 3rd year, entered the same category again and won! I can’t lie but winning anything is a great feeling. It validates the hard work you put in so you can do it again and again in more ways. It helped me build confidence to put myself out there even more and once you get it that first time, it becomes addictive, and you want to keep going to be the best version of you. It doesn’t stop at awards, but all the goals in your life.
SHOOTING DIFFERENT CONTENT BY SOFIE POK AKA STAYGOLD SHOOTING FOR AN ARTIST My first experience shooting an artist was with Ciara and Usher. One big tip is that you have to be ready for ANYTHING. I mean being ready to shift ideas and directions because things can change that fast sometimes so you can’t have an ego and be upset, but instead just try to be a problem solver in any case. I had to learn to have quick turn arounds which was very different than my normal schedule for shooting hair. Deadlines weren’t as instant as tomorrow morning put it that way. Your time management skills gotta pop off. Those challenge on the spot really taught me a lot though. Being prepared is everything and knowing your TOOLS is even more important for those moments. You have a limited of time to shoot on the fly with artist. When things get challenging, I know that’s when growth is near. SHOOTING FASHION Shooting my new apparel line was fun and exhausting. We shot over a few different days and places. We did a mixture of studio and location shooting during a few hot hot days. I was a model for one of those and wow it’s a lot harder to do than it seems. How I see the lighting from in front of the lens looks different than what is captured so it was nice to have that perspective. Had a small team from The Lab help me all the way through. It truly does take an entire village to make some magic.
@staygold31 | @rex.a.c.silver
EUROPEAN CORRESPONDENT BERTUS: THE BLOODY BUTCHER
His Yard... His Rules!! WITH REX.A.C.SILVER 26 Barber Shop Year 10 Issue 2
Again, as promised Barber Family, leading into the Australian Modern Barber Awards, some invaluable insights from our amazing International Correspondents (and Judges) as they explain how they go through the creative process of shooting and documenting their work. Robert-Jan Rietveld aka Bertus definitely thinks outside the box. By his own admission, his mind is constantly moving with creative ideas. He doesn’t like restraints or rules when it comes to realising a creative concept and will never be told what to do. That doesn’t mean he doesn’t value, and respect other professionals involved in that process with him, far from it in fact. His creative co-conspirator of 10 years, Photographer Jelle Mollema is a most trusted companion and one also very familiar with Rob’s ways and visions, together, they produce the amazing images we all love of Rob’s work, and they do it with class and finesse in an instantly recognizable style. Rob loves talking about his creative process so much, instead of emailing his answers to my questions, he suggested we have a ZOOM and discuss them more in-depth. In this, he gives us much more and shares a few stories:Robert, how important is it, as a creative person, to be able to document your work with images and videos and how do you think technology has played a part in that? It’s played a huge part. I am from another era of time. I mean, somehow when you become a hairdresser or whatever, I think you’ve got to have a certain eye for what’s pleasing to the eye. I think that is an essential part of becoming a barber or a hairdresser or whatever, because if you do not have an eye for beauty, you are probably in the wrong profession. For me, there’s always been a certain beauty in the margins. I really like punk rock. I really love outrageous looking people. We call them ‘the paradise birds’, I’ve always looked to the weirdos in the street! That has always been my thing. That’s always been ‘my people’. And that’s how I got into this job in the first place. Back in the day, you had magazines like ID Magazine and The
Face. I loved all those pictures in these punk rock magazines and these images actually taught me how to cut hair. I remember there were these Rockabilly’s that brought their Stray Cats records to my place and they were like, “Oh man, I want to have hair like Brian Setzer” (Google him - big pomp quaffed hair. Ed) Through old magazines, I was learning about Teddy Boy haircuts and my Psychobilly haircuts. That’s how we did it before the internet. My first photo ended up on the cover of a hair magazine somewhere in Spain and I was hooked. I think it went from there, so when you talk about technology, the weird thing is I am super, super jealous of all these kids that have YouTube. (Reflecting on how his young creative mind could have fed of today’s tech. Ed.) There old school people who say, “Oh, you should always learn from somebody”. But I do not agree. There is a lot you can learn from YouTube videos, whether it’s haircutting or a recipe or origami, or anything!. Whatever you want to do. It’s super cool. With today’s world of tech feeding us 24-hour content, Robert shares a metaphoric story to deliver the importance, patience plays in realising a creative project. A beautiful story, a bit extreme, but so is 24-hour content and the urgency and anxiety it produces. People lose sight of slowing down a little to take in the beauty. Rob expands... I met this guy in Japan. I’m a big fan of Japan. He was a bonsai master. So, I had this discussion. Amazing dude. He had tattoos all over his body, which is the thing in Japan. I love that. So, he’s talking about (patience and creativity) to me because he brought four bonsai trees to our hair show in Japan. “This tree,” he says, “is 120 years old. My grandfather
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started it a long time ago and I am teaching my daughter my trade so she will see the final result of the tree.” That always resonated with me. He’s never going to see his art. And I was like, oh my God, how can you live with this idea? But, you know, there was a certain beauty in what he said. Some great things cannot be rushed, you know.
Jelle, who Rob refers to as his ‘creative backbone’, on a journey that is already one year down, that he estimates will take them another year to complete. They view this as their Magnum Opus, meaning: The best work an artist can produce. This body of images is called “The Roach Project.” You will see teasers, but details are under wraps.
Walk us through your process of doing a collection, a body of work, with say four or more models, all different looks and how, do you decide the common thread that makes a collection? So usually, I just get an idea with the model, or it might be music, or it might be some form of art, like a comic book. I had this one dude that had bleached hair and I did this haircut and Jelle (Roberts photographer) did a really impressive photo to a black backdrop. Leen was like, “hey, you know what would be great - do this like your Instagram grid!” So we went and found 8 other guys on the street with bleached hair….bang a ‘Collection’ haha.
Examples of Roberts thought process to spark an idea when designing a Story or Collection. • I usually work with themes. For example, I might go for craftsmanship. So, I find six people. I find a carpenter, I find a blacksmith because they’re still around. Then I find a book binder and I find the glass blower and I will shoot them in their natural habitat. (where they work) So for me there’s got to be a storyline, you know, and that is a really important thing. • If you take nine models and you make them wear exactly the same outfit, you’re going to be blown away. So, you get nine completely different people, but usually the power is in the layout. It is not just the photo. It’s really important how you bring them together. • A story or body of work is like one’s soul which becomes like a painting. You know, it’s most important even when you go to a museum. Artists will do collections of artwork that complement each other and that is really important. You don’t want to go from here to there, to there. Then it’s just haircuts.
We then speak about how much more important than the haircuts in a collection is possibly the art of storytelling. Rob admits he never really thought about “Collections” as such but absolutely loves doing a ‘9 grid’ pic collage on his Instagram. It wasn’t until a staff member in the US asked for some images in particular and called it a ‘Collection’, that he realised he’d sort of been doing Collections all along unknowingly. When Rob does a series, he prefers to think of it more as a story and storytelling. This has led him and his photographer
Studio or Location? Well, the funny thing is a lot of people think we use a studio, but if you have seen my recent Insta stories, you would see Jelle and me on a ladder, duct taping a piece of cloth. That’s
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our studio “The Old School”, our barber academy. We have some beautiful windows. Lighting is absolutely amazing. So that’s where we shoot everything. The funny part is that the two posters that became well-known over the world, (The Schorem named-haircuts posters), we shot them in the basement, literally on three square metres and a flashlight. We don’t have anything fancy. We just moved one lamp around. That’s how we do our shoots, our location is usually in the shop. That is our studio. I don’t really do photo shoots outdoors, that’s never really been my thing because that is more of a fashion than a hair thing. After working with his photographer Jelle Mollema for 10 years Robert has an amazing working relationship with him but when quizzed on how to work with others on a shoot when you’re trying to realise your creative vision, he has these tips of advice: • Be respectful of the others talent, their expertise may be or may not be as vast as yours (he jests) but it’s an expertise in an area you know very little. • Shine some of the light on them; for it is together you reach the end goal. And Mentoring an emerging talent at work? So, I’m working with this super talented guy in my shop, 22 years old. He’s got the energy of youth, but he misses it with my experience with things. He wants to go too fast. I’m like, dude, no, man, you gotta slow down. Trust me. I understand he wants to be in the spotlight but stepping out of it yourself and shining it on somebody else is actually going to make the spotlight follow you. These lessons are the ones I am trying to teach him. As Barbers we are supposed to make our clients look the best they can be. What dictates to you what the hairstyle should look like in the end?
Well, yeah, it’s pretty much everything! So, you have outgoing people and shy people and I know what I’m going to do with their hair from the moment they enter the shop. The way they open the door tells me what to do, even the shyer people, you gotta, raise them as a village while also working in with what they want, It’s like first you win their trust by not overdoing it. Once you gain their trust, that’s when you show them what you can do. 90% of the guys I see don’t even know how good they can look. But you know, and that is a big responsibility to take upon yourself. They may say “So, I saw this haircut on someone”…..Yeah, well, that’s not you, man. It’s about trust you gain over time. Maybe because you gave him a little bit of trust and self-esteem, he actually might start dressing a little bit different too, maybe a bit more outrageous in a way that’s going to fit the haircut. At Schorem we get some very outrageous, people coming in. We literally opened a shop that we would love to go to. We have always specialised in a certain haircut and a certain look. Some people laugh at us like, oh, they only know one haircut and I always answer yeah, and we know that haircut really, really well! If there’s only 1% of the world’s population that wants that haircut. That is still like 8 million people. So, we’re good! There are also a lot of opportunities between our styles, because they can eventually go from a skin fade to long fenders and everything in between. People walking in, kind of know what they’re going to get, so that makes it very easy for us to work within that spectrum. We will catch up next Issue with Rob and also, Leen!! We look very much forward to that. @the_bloody_butcher @jelleinmyear @rex.a.c.silver
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AUSTRALIAN CORRESPONDENT
ASH WELLER
THE HOT SHOTS HOUSE EXPERIENCE The Hot Shots is a competition for young creative talent under 35years of age, Hairdressing and Barbering, like no other. The winners are treated to an absolutely life changing experience as described so well here by Ash Weller. It’s 4 days in a house, and pre-covid the last house was a week in Austria! that’s right, epic!
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It’s days of programs, exercises and being mentored by leaders in the Hair and Fashion Worlds, both creative and business and more. THE HOT SHOT HOUSE is designed to break you down and put you back together in a stronger form of yourself by these people, so you go back out and conquer your goals! Sounds like fun? There is an ulterior motive. Leaders are born from programs like these, enter THE HOT SHOT HOUSE, you may find yourself back at some stage with you as a mentor! In true Ash style, he took the long road, with his partner, to the HOT SHOT HOUSE so he can get into the zone to enjoy this experience to the fullest.
THE JOURNEY THERE So, after a few months of waiting for COVID 19 to settle down we finally got the chance to start this once in a lifetime opportunity THE HOT SHOTS HOUSE! But let’s start by talking in and enjoying the journey, to getting to that point. Once the dates where 100% locked in and everyone was booking their flights, I was adding up the miles for petrol to take my home with me, (as this bus had been my home for 5 weeks at that point) as well as needing some nature time and...well.. to just feel lost again. I decided to hit the world-famous GREAT OCEAN ROAD! A trip I’ve dreamed about for a long time. Sad it took a virus to allow me to have down time enough to go on that trip, but I chose to take this as a way to finally experience it. A journey filled with self-awareness, peace and tranquillity, reflection, no cell reception and or lack of and to really be aware of good and bad habits, we all have them, but once that phone reception is out that’s when it shows! On this journey I wanted to make an effort to grab the camera out again and shoot some content, document the trip in all its glory or.… not so glory. I love to shoot all sides as by now I think you all may know, but to me that’s the beauty of travel, like when I tour. I always would stay in hostels in the city or town I’m in. as I feel that’s the best way to find out all that place has to offer. The history, museums, galleries, must do’s and just to meet the friendly locals. Actually, there’s a great story in Port Fairy, a Shipping-Docks town, and an ongoing prank in the main pub that involves a shot on the house, and the colour blue…you’ll have to ask me in person for that story! All in all we really liked
that town, super quiet and simple with beautiful views to wake up in front of, and we didn’t pay a cent! (stealth camping!!) Of course, we checked out the cutest little op shop on the way out. I got to really enjoy shooting strangely, with my phone, drone and gimbal and of course a little bit of film, but man did it feel good to just be on the road. This is the first time I’ve travelled this far in my van-home, and I loved every moment of it! Even the tough nights trying to find some where to park up and sleep, hopping not to get hassled (we found some great spots by the way). As we made our way closer to Melbourne, we were in dying need of trees, a forest and a camp fire. We found a spot about 2 hours out and booked a night. Little did we know it was pretty well a 4x4 track to get there. Thank god we put on truck tires before we took off! When we arrived at the campsite, we didn’t expect THIS! We got the forest, and the beach all in one! What the!!.... We were so amazed by this I went down straight away to ground myself. Grabbed my drone and was in awe of this special spot. Later in the evening we met our neighbours at the communal fire pit, where we shared fire wood, food, stories, nature, travel and business, as it turns out they were needing the same as us, DOWN TIME!! They owned a really cool architect /design company that designed staged 3d building plans with a really cool and unique outlook, a few drinks were had and great night as we haven’t really had a huge amount of social time on that part of the trip. We are now on our last few days before we hit Melbourne, and we needed to check out a few spots like the 12 apostles, the Grotto and Loch Ard Gorge (my favourite) Bells Beach and Geelong (unreal vintage stores) These where super amazing places and at Loch Ard Gorge well, the space - you could really feel the history there. Paying respects to the aboriginal elders who found this place. There’s something to be said about surfers, they are a community of their own, look out for each other and really are one with the earth. I noticed a lad at Bells Beach really talking the time to pay respects to the waves the spot, and all its glory. I could just see the passion vibing out of him, I found it super genuine and inspiring. Torquay was one of our last nights of our trip and we decided to grab a space at the beach front caravan park, it was probably one of the 31 Barber Shop Year 9 Issue 2
biggest parks I’ve seen! My partner walked to the reception to get laundry detergent and they gave her a lift back to the van because it was so far away! (She thought she was the queen), the owners were absolutely lovely! And was a great last night where I cooked up a long 3-hour stew right out of the van! (Our kitchen slides out the van) there’s nothing better! The next day before we headed into Melbourne CBD, we checked out the town, of course op shopping but stumbled across this shop called Everyday Australia, a real rad clothing line that looked super appealing and high quality, we hung out in there for at least an hour talking with the owner, it was her home town, they used to have a shop in Byron bay but when covid hit they jacked up their rent crazy, so they decided to take the brand back home here, and re connect with the town. It was very humbling seeing the kids going in there to hang out, a really nice community-based shop. Loved it! Please go check them out if your ever in town!
HOT SHOT HOUSE 2021 At this point we had about an hour and a half on the road until we hit the hot shot house! On the drive in myself and partner really reflected on our travels, how much we did, how much we learnt, saw and experienced. I was first to arrive, shortly after Amberley arrived, we vibed straight away! Got to know each other and talked about how insane and nervous/ excited we were. All the others Ellie, Alannah, Linda and Louise arrived and wow! Were we in awe! The place was a heritage listed mansion!! The super old decor, high ceilings, rooms everywhere and the beautiful back yard! Amazing! (Not going to lie I parked the van out the back… I just love my little space) The first night we got to enjoy nice home cooked Bolognese (hot shot house tradition) and got to know each other and had an early night….but man.. we spoilt with the mentors that came in to the house over the next few days. First up we had Jayne Wild; an incredible editorial stylist, industry icon, award winner and salon owner, and she took us through her journey. She is also the creative director for our collaboration shoot set for August! And you’ll never guess who will be shooting for us! ANDREW O’TOOLE!!! Someone we’ve all been wanting the chance to work with as he is one off the most sought after hair photographers in cont’d on page 32
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the hair industry! I’m soooo bloody pumped! Then, we had the very hard working, and persistent…. Caterina Di Biase! 4x Hairdresser of the Year!! With her amazing story on how she started, and how the pure passion for hair got her to where she is and of course, by never giving up! Next up, Dee Parker and Lyndal Salmon pop in with breakfast, Champagne! And a very down to earth conversation about each other and their journey, giving us all the tips for when we shoot with Andrew in the studio. These two really had it all going, out there and bubbly personalities, and just so keen on this industry. Really respected their passion and authenticity. Nearing the end of the day we had the rock star, Michelle Anthony, the hair competition director come in, man!....Her energy, style and hard-to-the-bone attitude that I just adored! She’s been so involved with competitions for years in the industry, and is all about pushing and exposing the talents where she can, heart of gold that one! To end the day, we had the one and only Errol Douglas MBE, a british Award Winning Hairdresser that got to meet the Queen! He was just such a character with a massive positive attitude that just captivated you! I got to express what I’m wanting to do with my shop/ career and he, as well as Dario Cotroneo both gave me the best advice ever! It was what I needed to hear from another stylist, and at their level!... it gave me a confidence and belief that what I was wanting to do, was the right path to take. We had the high energy of Grant Norton from ghd come down to take us through ghd gear, but more so his little quirky tips and tricks when it comes to public speaking, education, delivery, and his journey of assisting others to get to what they want in awards fashion and photographer mentoring. He has so much knowledge on the industry and such a style about him that you can’t miss.
Pete…thank you so much for the huge prize! The Scissor Kit you gave to us all! For taking us through the showroom and the warehouse, showings us the blade-smiths working on every scissor that comes in… by hand! It was so incredible, and it’s easy to see why you have the reputation you do. Your knowledge on hair and scissor techniques really validated some of my own and I felt super pumped to get back and start slicing some hair! You’re a bloody legend man! and I will see you in Sydney for Hair Festival! Cheers again Pete! I’ll always remembered what these guys told me and here I would like to share, as I feel it could hit home for a lot of people atm. “Gratitude is what gets you through hard times” “Your prices are a reflection of your investment in education” This one really stood out: The 3 C’s Choice Chance Change “You must make the choice to take a chance to create the change” Words from Dario Cotroneo
we adapt to change! I think that we should all take pride in that as Hairdressers and Barbers. We are there for the people in our communities and that’s worth everything. What I got out of this experience was more then I was expecting! It was a total overhaul of one-self, from facing and dealing with the things we struggle with to learning to self-love and know our worth! To being guided by Linda Woodhead through breaking barriers with ‘punch-boards of negativity’ (see pics), releasing negativity out of our lives… and then we grow and for this Hot Shots House to come as one as a family! We supported each other through our hard stories, stresses and worries and in just four days, I can truly say we have formed some lifelong friendships! All thanks to these most hard working, strong, loving, kind and resilient women - Linda Woodhead the Mumma Bear and Co-Mumma Bear Louise May (thanks for washing out the paint stains I got all over my clothes from our painting class, lol.) I’ll never forget this experience and highly recommend everyone to enter! Its life changing!
That sentence summed it all up for me, I will forever have that with me, so thank you Dario!
I would like to say a massive thank you to all the sponsors and supporters of the Hot Shots Category at AHIA, we all had the best time.
At the end of the day, I believe in keeping your circle small, making kindness the new currency and If I’ve learnt anything from all the mentors we have had in, is that we are all on the same level.
And again of course if I may, the woman that has believed in me and my work for a very-very long time, Linda Woodhead, you are such a treasure for this industry and we all thank you for your ongoing support of this industry and all your involvement.
Since the pandemic we have all lost, but we are still shining as Hairdressers and Barbers, as we do in these times, we are resilient, and
I would like to do the honour of shouting out Pete Walstab of Excellent Edges!!
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Much love, Ash
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SOCIAL MEDIA INTERNATIONAL BARBER OF THE YEAR
e n o c c i C Frank BY REX A.C. SILVER
Amongst Rock Stars, Sports Stars and Actors, Frank Ciccone finds himself backstage at Awards like the Aria’s, the Logies, in the US at the Emmy’s or on-call to a host of Australian and International A-List talents to do their hair when they need to shine in the spotlight. Now, it’s Franks turn for his close-up. Frank entered The Social Media Hair and Beauty Awards (SMHBA) out of the UK and his star-studded followers and loyal clients rallied behind him to take out the honours!! Well Deserved Frank! Firstly, Congratulations on representing Australia and taking out the top prize” International Barber of The Year” at the SMHBA out of the UK, Sponsored by Wahl and Schwarzkopf. Thank you, Rex. I’m stoked about this award and very thankful to everyone who supported me during the process. How did you come across the SMHBA and what did it take to enter? I came across the awards via a sponsored post on social media. I clicked on it to see who was being nominated. There were many talented British, American and even Dutch entrants. I decided to submit a pic of my work and I left it at that. I didn’t really look at the criteria when I submitted it, as I was overwhelmed by the quality of entries. I thought I had no chance. I understand to win, after you have qualified as a finalist, you have to have people like your entry on the official page, so is this something your clients, friends and supporters rallied to get you there? Yes, that is correct. Once I was notified, I then reached out to all my clients, friends and high-profile clients who in turn rallied behind me. That’s an amazing show of love and support for you and your staff and business after such a hard past 12 moths for Victorians! I know that the hair and beauty industry suffered across the country but for businesses here in Victoria it was very hard. We were closed for about 5 months all up. We actually closed for 6 weeks prior to being forced closed as our area was very high in cases. It was a tough decision to close earlier but we’d rather be closed by choice than to be forced closed with our business name all over the news for the wrong reasons. This award just gives us hope that as a business, like many, we are heading in the right direction when you know awards and events are happening again. What do you think this means for your business and staff; a great motivator? Any type of award for your business is a blessing. It gives you self-worth for starters, especially when you have been in the industry for 25 years plus. The clients love it that their hairdresser/ barber has an award as they boast about it that “my barber is better than yours” lol! The staff love it, especially the younger ones as they can see that there is appreciation & gratitude in the industry by its peers and they can work towards an accolade themselves one day. For the business itself it’s amazing as we have some marketing power up our sleeves with posting about this award. Take us through the event when the winners were announced, I understand you had to get up at 4am and thought you were going to just watch? Yes, I smashed out a few espressos that morning. When it was announced that the awards ceremony was being held at 8pm I had to work out the Melbourne time and realised it was an ‘am’ event. Went to bed early Friday night and was up at 4. The hosts of the event were 2X British Barber of the year Mathew Guerin and renowned make-up artist Sophie Williams. It was a live feed for everyone around the world. Because it was in Britain, they couldn’t do an event due to covid restrictions. So, it was held online. When they announced the winners from each category such as “salon of the year” etc, they would then do a live cross to the winner via Instagram to accept the award. When it was the turn of the International Barber of the year, I was just watching waiting to see who would win. 34 Barber Shop Year 10 Issue 2
Tennis Star Domenic Thiem
Geordie Shore Star Gary Beadle
then out of left field the announced my name, I just froze then they showed the envelope with my name on it then I freaked out. I had to quickly accept a live feed from them and chat to them accepting the award. I was stunned throughout the interview. I had to watch a recording of the interview afterwards as I couldn’t even remember what I said. Please tell our readers how long you have been in the industry – a little history. 25 years! My wife Helen and I opened Hair by Ciccone way back in 1996. We have had a great life running this suburban salon. It has been very hard but very rewarding in many ways. We have been blessed to work with some great staff who have supported us right through. Running a salon is a challenge but you need to have the drive and passion to get you over the line especially support from staff. Helen has been the backbone of the salon with staff training. I actually learnt my trade from her. Then I stepped up when all the social media platforms started, and I started doing a lot of the marketing via these platforms which has helped our brand immensely. We also launched a men’s styling brand called SMASH IT in 2013.
Soccer Star Tim Cahiill
Tennis Star Stan Warinka
When you added the Barber Shop to your business, how has that affecting things? I always had a little men’s area at the front of the salon but as I started looking after high-profile clients, I set up an area on our middle level but that got very busy, so then in 2015, Helen allocated a whole area at the back of the salon where all my male clientele visit. We have established a bar as well and a lounge area, so the lads can chill and feel comfortable having some deep and emotional conversations about life, which to me is very important. (Gold!! Ed) Please tell us about any other awards and achievements and community recognition you have enjoyed. In regard to awards, Hair by Ciccone has won many local businesses of the year awards and was inducted into the small business Hall of Fame for our region after winning the award 3 times. We were also named finalist for the AHIA VICTORIAN SALON OF THE YEAR in 2017. Way back in 2000 we won The FOX FM Melbourne’s Best Hairdresser which was massive for us. We have always been involved with awards that were for the salon. We never entered individual awards. So, this is new to us. Helen won Hairdresser of the year from her academy way back in 1991 so it’s been many years since another individual award has come our way. With our celebrity clientele, some come into the shop and for others we look after them at their hotel rooms. We have looked after the likes of SLASH , INXS, POWDER FINGER, BIRDS OF TOKYO, THE GEORDIE SHORE CAST such as GAZ, SCOTT, AARON, KYLE, JAMES & NATHAN. As a big soccer follower, I was blessed to look after JUVENTUS FC. such as Argentinian star Paulo Dybala, FC BARCELONA goalkeeper Neto Murara, and other players include Asamoah, Hernanes and more. I was blessed to have met Socceroo legend Tim Cahill who was a regular at the shop, he then introduced me to the Socceroos. I looked after them a few times before and after the World Cup in 2018. Since 1999 I have looked after players from AFL team Carlton Football club. Such as Bryce Gibbs, Marc Murphy and more and current players such as Patrick Cripps and Tom De Koning. I even got to shave AFL great Kade Simpson beard of for a charity at the channel 10 studios for the tv footy show Before the Bounce. I have looked after many MELBOURNE CITY players such as Garruccio, Mauk, Melling, Hoffman, Jacobsen, Luna, Galloway and current captain Jamieson. Covid sadly restricted me in looking after talent as there were not many events. The most recent personalities were tennis stars Domenic Thiem and Stan Warinka during the Australian Open this year and S5000 driver and F3 Grand Prix champion Luis Leeds. I looked after EMMY award winner Vincent De Paul when I was in LA for the EMMYS which was crazy. Most importantly, I have been an ambassador for a charity called The Polished Man which helps prevent violence against children. (The black and white pic used in this article is from that campaign.) I have been an ambassador for 2 years and I strongly support it. @smashhit_frank @hairbyciccone 35 Barber Shop Year 10 Issue 2
Soccer Star Paulo Dybala
Carlto Captain Patric Cripps
THE COLOUR EVOLUTION
Barbering is one of the oldest professions in the world spanning back thousands of years and whilst we’ll always take inspiration from the past, we are now in the position to evolve. “Barbers are out there mastering their craft, creating the perfect cut and style. Colour is the next step - it provides the opportunity to add another dimension to the look. It is an evolution” Justin O’Daniel, Lead Educator at The Barbiere Company.
36 Barber Shop Year 10 Issue 2
So, let’s ask the age-old question that most barbers are probably wondering about right now—can barbers actually colour hair? The short answer is – YES! You can dive into colouring hair with simple training provided by The Barbiere Company. From easy how-to charts to in-studio training, The Barbiere Company have a variety of education options for barbers wanting to learn how to colour hair. Men are embracing colour, whether it is bleached blonde, vibrant colours, or more traditional grey coverage. The demand from men wanting coloured hair is rapidly increasing. Ensuring you provide colour will help draw in more clients and allow you to further tap into your creativity – and as we know, barbering is an art form. Coloured hair on men is more than trending - it’s here to stay. Not only does offering colour in the barbershop allow barbers to further express their creativity, it provides businesses with an additional revenue stream. Key Account Manager at The Barbiere Company, Paul Mansour elaborates “Colour is an easy way to generate extra revenue with the same customer base for little investment. It also sets you apart from your competitors down the road, having a broader service offering.”. To help bring colour into the barbershop,The Barbiere Company created a range of kits for barbers with experience at every level – including beginners. The kits include how-to charts and products needed for grey blending, scalp bleaching and tip cap looks. Through using these kits, barbers are able to master the basics and can then move on to bright colours for clients who want to make a statement. To kick off the offering, The Barbiere Company went to The Bearded Man barbershop on Chapel Street in Victoria to provide a colour training session. During the session the team had the opportunity to experiment with different colouring techniques and the results speak for themselves. “We are really excited to team up with The Barbiere Company to bring colour into our barbershop. I think it is going to be great having colour as it gives an extra service and option for the client. It makes it more exciting with creativity and builds our services, so watch this space!” Josh Mihan, Owner of The Bearded Man barbershop. To start offering colour as a service in your barbershop or for more information please contact The Barbiere Company. sales@barbiereco.com | 1300 833 983 | www.barbiereco.com.au 37 Barber Shop Year 10 Issue 2
Men’s Hair Fashion Trends with MUK HAIRCARE What’s Hot in men’s hair fashion and what can we expect to see in the coming 12 months? We asked Errin Callaghan, Urban Barbershop and Adam Scott, Hardware La Barbers to share their thoughts in regards to cuts, colours style and linked with fashion if they wish.
Errin Callaghan
URBAN BARBER SHOP @urbanbarbershop THE CREW CUT This classic style will always be on trend. So many clients over lockdown became addicted to this super short and easy to maintain hairstyle. This style can be a simple clipper cut all over with clean lines or a mixture of contemporary barber technique’s like scissor over comb, or clipper over comb. I always wet shave the neck to finish for that ultra-fresh feel. Prepare with mr muk Hair, Beard and Body Wash. Style with mr muk Flexible Hold Grooming Cream to highlight any texture and add a small amount of shine. SKIN FADE BLENDED INTO SUPER TEXTURED CESEAR CUT For this look I use a foiling shaver to blend into a number one and cut the top to about 3cms, following with aggressive point cutting through the top and shatter the fringe. Blow dry with cold air forward to maintain natural movement, leaving a touch of moisture in the hair. Style with Filthy muk Styling Paste for a low shine hold and gritty texture. SHORT TAPERED QUIFF Quite an easy style to cut and even easier to style. Number 3 sides or clippers over comb for the skilled stylist blended into a 3-inch clubbed cut top and shattered for a textured finished with a taper or square neck, razored. A very clean number 3 over the beard and lined out accordingly, for that super clean look. Cutthroat shave the neck and a hot towel will have your client feel super clean. Prepare with mr muk Thickening and Texturising Shampoo before cutting and styling to provide a strong base and hold for blowdrying. Style with Slick muk Pomade, for that classic wet look. Use mr muk Beard Oil to add shine and condition to the gentleman’s beard.
Adam Scott
Hardware La Barbers Hardwarelabarbers.com.au @hardware.la.barbers THE MODERN MULLET The 80s are coming back with mullets and some with platinum blonde tips proving to be a trend that we are seeing. For the blonde, we would choose from the muk Hybrid Cream Hair Color range and to style and give the mullet that natural, unkept look, I would use mr muk Flexible Hold Grooming Cream. CEASAR CUT The high zero/skin fade with short crop ceasar cut on top is an extremely popular trend we are seeing in men’s haircuts. The caesar cut is short back and sides, short texture cut on top pushed forward, with a blunt short fringe. This is a great no fuss, easy to style cut for men. To finish this style, I use the Hard muk Styling Mud for matte texture and a low sheen finish, adding body where needed. THE CLASSIC SIDE PART The classic side part scissor cut is a classic and one we see a lot with males who work in the city. It’s sophisticated, tailored and can easily be worn from day to night. Use either mr muk Strong Hold Gritty Finish Paste or the mr muk Firm Flexbile Hold Medium Gloss Mud – depending on the texture of the hair. Both give amazing hold, texture and a small amount of shine. Apply evenly through the hair and then comb into place.
www.mukhair.com 38 Barber Shop Year 10 Issue 2
Refresh and Restore Jono Goodwin, aka @taperedout, has been in the barbering industry for almost 9 years. He grew up going to the barbers with his dad like many young lads and was also in a 3 part barbershop quartet in Auckland, New Zealand. Since then Jono has become a Reuzel scumbassador, a title that is highly sought after by Reuzel enthusiasts in the barbering industry worldwide. “I’ve been a Reuzel Scumbassador for just over a year, and to say I love spreading the greasy gospel would be an understatement.” Jono currently works as a head barber for Tommy Guns Barbershop. The Brisbane based barber shop is an 8-chair shop with up to 10 people working at a time. Although hectic at times, Jono is passionate about making sure everyone keeps to a high standard of service. We asked Jono to road test the recent new offering from Reuzel – R&R Skincare for men.
WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT REUZEL?
“we have seen real growth in male skin care in the past few years and its only set to grow bigger with time.”
Early on in my barbering career Reuzel dropped a razor faded pomp tutorial. It was one of the most well executed cuts I had ever seen and I made it my personal goal to be able to pull one of those bad boys off! Now that I have learnt more about Reuzel, I really love that their hair products are also good for your scalp and hair with ingredients such as aloe vera, vitamin e, and of course, Reuzel’s T4 tonic, including witch hazel, nettle leaf, rosemary extract and horsetail root extract.
WHAT DID YOU THINK WHEN YOU HEARD REUZEL WAS CREATING A SKINCARE RANGE?
I thought that it was an awesome idea.The male grooming industry is growing really quickly and is only set to grow bigger with time. I think it is a great time to jump on board!
TELL US WHAT YOU THOUGHT ABOUT THE RANGE?
The first thing I liked about the skincare range was how easy it was to use. I found putting it on my bathroom sink next to my tooth brush made it easy to become part of my everyday routine. I loved the Solid Face Wash stick, especially as my skin can be quite sensitive, I found it to work well and not make my face feel tingly. The Hydrating Face Moisturizer was really good as it didn’t make my oily skin any oilier and the Intensive Care Eye Cream was also great. In all the time that I have used the Refresh and Restore range, I have found my skin hasn’t felt oily and I have not had any dry uneven skin tone on my face. Since using, I have been recommending the R&R range and think that in a barbershop it could most definitely be used as part of a facial or as an add on to your beard services. This way the client gets to experience the feel and smell of the products. For a deluxe facial you could even use the Reuzel scrub shampoo as a facial scrub (depending on the skin) followed with a hot towel clean, fresh face wash, hydrating moisturizer, intensive care eye cream to finish. Prior to using R&R, I was using my wife’s skin care products, whenever she wasn’t looking mind you. After seeing the changes in my skin my wife has started using mine lol! I might have to hide it away from her. www.barbiereco.com.au @thebarbierecompany 40 Barber Shop Year 10 Issue 2
SKINCARE FOR MEN
AHIA
Creative
MEN’S HAIR SPECIALIST FINALIST
AUSTRALIAN HAIR INDUSTRY AWARDS
ANTHONY STALTARI BARBERY AUSTRALIA
CELEBRATE WITH THE FINALISTS FOR THE INAUGURAL 2021 AUSTRALIAN HAIR INDUSTRY AWARDS – CREATIVE IN THE MEN’S HAIR SPECIALIST CATEGORY. ALL OTHER CATEGORY FINALISTS CAN BE VIEWED ONLINE AT
WWW.AUSTRALIANHAIRINDUSTRYAWARDS.COM.AU WINNER TO BE ANNOUNCED AT THE GALA EVENT – 14TH JUNE, SYDNEY
MEN’S HAIR SPECIALIST FINALIST
AHIA
Creative
AUSTRALIAN HAIR INDUSTRY AWARDS
Hair Stylist - Anthony Staltari Photography - Kevin Luchmun Make up - Carrie Jessup Stylist - Quinton Faulkner
CELEBRATE WITH THE FINALISTS FOR THE INAUGURAL 2021 AUSTRALIAN HAIR INDUSTRY AWARDS – CREATIVE IN THE MEN’S HAIR SPECIALIST CATEGORY. ALL OTHER CATEGORY FINALISTS CAN BE VIEWED ONLINE AT
WWW.AUSTRALIANHAIRINDUSTRYAWARDS.COM.AU WINNER TO BE ANNOUNCED AT THE GALA EVENT – 14TH JUNE, SYDNEY
AHIA
Creative
MEN’S HAIR SPECIALIST FINALIST
AUSTRALIAN HAIR INDUSTRY AWARDS
JOHNNY GEORGIOU BARBERY THE CRAFT OF A BARBER
CELEBRATE WITH THE FINALISTS FOR THE INAUGURAL 2021 AUSTRALIAN HAIR INDUSTRY AWARDS – CREATIVE IN THE MEN’S HAIR SPECIALIST CATEGORY. ALL OTHER CATEGORY FINALISTS CAN BE VIEWED ONLINE AT
WWW.AUSTRALIANHAIRINDUSTRYAWARDS.COM.AU WINNER TO BE ANNOUNCED AT THE GALA EVENT – 14TH JUNE, SYDNEY
MEN’S HAIR SPECIALIST FINALIST
AHIA
Creative
AUSTRALIAN HAIR INDUSTRY AWARDS
Hair : Johnny Georgiou Styling : Johnny Georgiou Photography : Johnny Georgiou Make up : Carol Hewett
CELEBRATE WITH THE FINALISTS FOR THE INAUGURAL 2021 AUSTRALIAN HAIR INDUSTRY AWARDS – CREATIVE IN THE MEN’S HAIR SPECIALIST CATEGORY. ALL OTHER CATEGORY FINALISTS CAN BE VIEWED ONLINE AT
WWW.AUSTRALIANHAIRINDUSTRYAWARDS.COM.AU WINNER TO BE ANNOUNCED AT THE GALA EVENT – 14TH JUNE, SYDNEY
AHIA
Creative
MEN’S HAIR SPECIALIST FINALIST
AUSTRALIAN HAIR INDUSTRY AWARDS
TARIK JAŠAREVIĆ MR.T SALON
CELEBRATE WITH THE FINALISTS FOR THE INAUGURAL 2021 AUSTRALIAN HAIR INDUSTRY AWARDS – CREATIVE IN THE MEN’S HAIR SPECIALIST CATEGORY. ALL OTHER CATEGORY FINALISTS CAN BE VIEWED ONLINE AT
WWW.AUSTRALIANHAIRINDUSTRYAWARDS.COM.AU WINNER TO BE ANNOUNCED AT THE GALA EVENT – 14TH JUNE, SYDNEY
MEN’S HAIR SPECIALIST FINALIST
AHIA
Creative
AUSTRALIAN HAIR INDUSTRY AWARDS
Hair- Tarik Jasarevic Hair Assistent - Chay William Photographer - Eddie Korjenic Stylist - Dina Jašarević Make Up - Leonie Karagiannis
CELEBRATE WITH THE FINALISTS FOR THE INAUGURAL 2021 AUSTRALIAN HAIR INDUSTRY AWARDS – CREATIVE IN THE MEN’S HAIR SPECIALIST CATEGORY. ALL OTHER CATEGORY FINALISTS CAN BE VIEWED ONLINE AT
WWW.AUSTRALIANHAIRINDUSTRYAWARDS.COM.AU WINNER TO BE ANNOUNCED AT THE GALA EVENT – 14TH JUNE, SYDNEY
AHIA
Creative
MEN’S HAIR SPECIALIST FINALIST
AUSTRALIAN HAIR INDUSTRY AWARDS
TIMOTHY PASCOE TIM PASCOE HAIR
CELEBRATE WITH THE FINALISTS FOR THE INAUGURAL 2021 AUSTRALIAN HAIR INDUSTRY AWARDS – CREATIVE IN THE MEN’S HAIR SPECIALIST CATEGORY. ALL OTHER CATEGORY FINALISTS CAN BE VIEWED ONLINE AT
WWW.AUSTRALIANHAIRINDUSTRYAWARDS.COM.AU WINNER TO BE ANNOUNCED AT THE GALA EVENT – 14TH JUNE, SYDNEY
MEN’S HAIR SPECIALIST FINALIST
AHIA
Creative
AUSTRALIAN HAIR INDUSTRY AWARDS
Hair: Tim Pascoe Photographer: Natasja Kremers Stylist: Luke Meakins Makeup Artist: Francesca Poggi
CELEBRATE WITH THE FINALISTS FOR THE INAUGURAL 2021 AUSTRALIAN HAIR INDUSTRY AWARDS – CREATIVE IN THE MEN’S HAIR SPECIALIST CATEGORY. ALL OTHER CATEGORY FINALISTS CAN BE VIEWED ONLINE AT
WWW.AUSTRALIANHAIRINDUSTRYAWARDS.COM.AU WINNER TO BE ANNOUNCED AT THE GALA EVENT – 14TH JUNE, SYDNEY
AHIA
Creative
MEN’S HAIR SPECIALIST FINALIST
AUSTRALIAN HAIR INDUSTRY AWARDS
TOM WHITE SAME SAME BUT DIFFERENT
CELEBRATE WITH THE FINALISTS FOR THE INAUGURAL 2021 AUSTRALIAN HAIR INDUSTRY AWARDS – CREATIVE IN THE MEN’S HAIR SPECIALIST CATEGORY. ALL OTHER CATEGORY FINALISTS CAN BE VIEWED ONLINE AT
WWW.AUSTRALIANHAIRINDUSTRYAWARDS.COM.AU WINNER TO BE ANNOUNCED AT THE GALA EVENT – 14TH JUNE, SYDNEY
MEN’S HAIR SPECIALIST FINALIST
AHIA
Creative
AUSTRALIAN HAIR INDUSTRY AWARDS
Hair - Tom White Photographer - Bernard Guiet Makeup Artist - Sarah McFadden Stylist - Leroy Lorenzo
CELEBRATE WITH THE FINALISTS FOR THE INAUGURAL 2021 AUSTRALIAN HAIR INDUSTRY AWARDS – CREATIVE IN THE MEN’S HAIR SPECIALIST CATEGORY. ALL OTHER CATEGORY FINALISTS CAN BE VIEWED ONLINE AT
WWW.AUSTRALIANHAIRINDUSTRYAWARDS.COM.AU WINNER TO BE ANNOUNCED AT THE GALA EVENT – 14TH JUNE, SYDNEY
/silverbullethair
@silverbullethair
For stockists call Dateline Imports P/L on (02) 9666 3611 or visit silverbullethair.com.au
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BLOG SPOT. SHOPPING THE LOOP with Paul Frasca It’s not often we’re treated as the consumer in our own industry (honestly, when was the last time you sat in the chair and had a service end to end at a salon you don’t own or work at?), but for the next few minutes, I’d love you to put your consumer decisionmaking hat on and walk with me. We’re going shopping. Today, we’re hitting the ‘closed-loop mall’ for a spot of window-shopping into the recycled product process (trust me, it’s all the endorphins without the buyer’s remorse, you’ll see). The loop begins here: separating and collecting. Hopefully by now you know that Sustainable Salons collects salon materials that might otherwise end up in landfill and recycles and repurposes them into items that can be used again. Well, we’ve just released our latest positive impact stats and we’re proud to say that our network around Australia and New Zealand has now prevented 829,474kg of discarded resources (paper, metals, plastic, hair, chemicals, e-waste and more!) from being wasted. That’s all thanks to the commitment of more than 1,100 salon members over six years all diligently being the source - the ground zero - of our closed-loop process. Without their dedication to separating materials in the salon, we’d have 829,474kg of unusable mess on our hands. That’s kind of what Australia has found itself dealing with in the last few years. When China shut its doors to our waste, we finally woke up to our own mess. So, now that we’re forced to process it ourselves (which is awesome, btw!), we’ve started to look at our waste as valuable materials instead - what can we do with it? How can it benefit us instead of draining resources just to put it in the ground? It’s inspired small businesses, universities, larger manufacturers and governments to start the closed-loop process - many are working together to innovate new ways of accessing single-source, recyclable materials to make new products. Now we’re in the middle of the loop: manufacturing recycled products. Once we have this single, viable, recyclable material, the world is our oyster! The Sustainable Salons closed-loop mission is moving ahead at a rapid pace - so far, we’ve made glasses frames from shampoo
bottles in our collaboration with local eyewear manufacturer Dresden Vision, and recently we released 100% post-consumer recycled plastic dog leashes via an awesome partnership with Hi Jac and Sydney-based recycled plastic manufacturer, Defy Design (check out our socials for info on both of these products). It doesn’t stop there, though. We have three more product collaborations almost ready for release, and a huge number in the works. And not just with plastic, either. In 2020, we brought on an in-house innovations team specifically to move this vision forward as quickly as possible because we promised our network real, effective solutions. But we’re not the only ones out there driving awesome products out of recycled materials; hundreds of local manufacturers and innovators are producing amazing things from the stuff we throw away. Accessing the ‘eco’ offering is not like finding a needle in a haystack anymore - the shelves are stocked, the recycled products are getting louder and prouder, now they just need YOU! It’s time to close the loop with your $$$: buy recycled! You’re researching your options, you’re perusing the shelves - do you reach for recycled? Some of us might like to think we would, and maybe some of you are already following through. But if not, why not? Often it comes down to two reasons: cost and quality. Firstly, we’re used to buying cheap. We’ve been fed low-cost goods from China for as long as we can remember, and our value scale is all out. We once put this to our Sustainable Salons friend and awesome eco-warrior, Kate Hall (known as Ethically Kate on her blog and socials), and she explained it like this: “Anything we buy from China doesn’t represent the true cost. A $5 t-shirt doesn’t add up [when you think about all the costs associated in making the product accessible to the consumer: materials, labour, machinery, merchandising, marketing and shipping] but 56 Barber Shop Year 10 Issue 2
a $60 one does. ‘Green companies’ suffer with smaller production runs and higher costs because the demand just isn’t there - there is often a premium we wouldn’t have to pay if more people were purchasing.” These local manufacturers and innovators I mentioned earlier, they’ve all taken a huge risk to set themselves up to recycle your goods. It can cost hundreds of thousands for machinery and labour to take what you throw away and turn it into something usable so it stays out of landfill. And that makes us as consumers feel warm and fuzzy because we know someone else is positively taking care of the waste we’ve created. But now we’re inching into unchartered territory. These manufacturers are stocking fantastic recycled goods that people aren’t purchasing, which may prevent them from recycling your discarded materials in the future. If we don’t start buying recycled asap, we could break the loop completely, and then we’re right back to where we started. With an unusable mess. I know it’s tough to move away from what you know and feel comfortable with; changing habits is hard. But we did it with our reusable coffee cups! Think back to when you were grappling with the idea of spending $30 on your first Keep Cup - now, who could live without it? It’s the same journey for other purchasing decisions. The real beauty here is that these recycled products are designed and made locally, which means these brands employ local people, work diligently towards quality (because there’s a traceable face to the product) and are hungry for your feedback on how they can create what YOU actually want, need and like. So next time you’re ‘just window-shopping’, add recycled to cart. It’s 100% guilt-free. Keen to join the movement? Find out more at www.sustainablesalons.org!
BLOG SPOT.
Building Your EmpirE with Don De Sanctis
Building your empire is not going to be easy, there will be a lot of long sleepless nights, roadblocks, and headaches. It is a long journey but once you see the light at the end of the tunnel, it will be all worth it. I am truly blessed to be where I am today with the success of Barber Boys and how it is evolving. To building an empire, these are just a few steps that I did that worked for me and I would like to share them with you…
1. ROLE MODELS AND INFLUENCERS
Find role models and build influencer relationships with people that you look up to, and that relate within the industry of your business. I have many role models based on their journey of success, their creativity, passion, and nonstop dedication. These role models and influencers, I follow and support them through networking and social media platforms, I read their blogs/articles and attend their workshops. I even organise training nights with these role models and influencers to present and teach my staff. Whether they are barbers, retail/product companies, to even mentors – anything that will help my team and empire to grow. By doing this, you are building the culture you admire from influencers and their platforms, it helps spread the word of your business to the industry, with what you are trying to achieve.
2. EMBRACE YOUR MISTAKES!
Embracing your failures is no easy task, and there is a huge resistance in most people to look back at these failures to see where it went wrong. But the thing is you will encounter many obstacles and mistakes while building your empire – this is only natural. Take it as an opportunity to learn and develop these mistakes, instead of reflecting it as a failure. If you honestly believe in it, see where it went wrong, identify the errors and act on it to find the solution. If you never try, you will never know!
3. OPTIMISM
According to the Cambridge Dictionary, the definition of Optimism is: The quality of being full of hope and emphasizing the good parts of a situation, or a belief that something good will happen. You cannot build your empire thinking negatively. Yes, there are roadblocks throughout the journey, but you need to be a realistic optimist! Being optimistic with working out how to overcome those hurdles and roadblocks. Your mindset defines how your empire will grow.
4. LOOK AFTER YOURSELF!
In my previous blog about Work Life Balance – you need to look after yourself. How can you build your empire when you are not looking after yourself? The healthier you are, the more focused you become, therefore the more successful you will be, as you will be able to work to your full potential. Just remember Rome was not built in a day. You need to build slowly and improve daily, that will lead you to the success of building your empire. 57 Barber Shop Year 10 Issue 2
BLOG SPOT. R.E.S.P.E.C.T
with Collette Saunders The other night I sat for over a full hour listening to a live interview with a woman who has given decades of her life to the creation of media and events. Rarely do I ever have my interest held for the full length of an instagram live, as I’m sure many of us can agree, social media tends to be short grabs of our attention span. By the way this was not the topic I was planning to write on for this Issue! However, I was impacted by it enough to have it start a rabbit trail of thoughts, so here we go! How many of our readers here know who the people are behind the scenes? People who are behind the publications and hair industry events that are brought together for your enjoyment and participation. These things take an army to produce to be sure! Ranks, artillery, codes and practices, collaborations, days, months and even years. Behind the building of the things we get to enjoy has come the direction of people who have lived through decades of learning curves, self-discipline, experiences, grit, soaring highs and devastating lows, to bring to the table a desire to impart. Why?! Because they love it, their passion has never left them, they had a plan, they’ve lived it and that deserves Respect. Experience demands Respect! Rites of passage are hard earned, and even more so if you are a woman. Ah yes can you hear it in your head… Aretha Franklin. And yep, here I go again waving the Flag for the Females. I honestly respect women came through those decades where men fully dominated industry. If you think there is an imbalance now, then kindly consider the 70’s and 80’s where women climbed the learning curve. Given the opportunity to be a man or a woman which would you be? In 2021 we are more empowered, better educated and given more choice. There is something soulfully satisfying about gleaning from others who have been there and done that. I just love hearing about lived experience. It’s where we can dig into our own selves and find that when we think we are on the complete antipode of another’s life we may actually be almost walking their footprints in the sand or can aspire to. We are all the same in the fact that we bend to pressure. We run so far until we come to a place where we have to deal with pressure, and if you have no scars on your face have you really dealt with pressure (thanks Billy Joel). But as we all know pressure creates diamonds. Our lives and minds are, in a sense, like a magazine. Pages that we flip back and forward to. What we have done to get to where we are and a plan for where we want to be. Keep the volumes stored until we open them again and smell the print aroma that takes us back to where we were. Support goes a long way! We can only do so much on our own. The new word on the block lately is “collaboration”. The future is the “bringing together”! The future is standing alongside others in our industry to make it the best we possibly can. I think by now we have the sense of the all-encompassing. Accolades are awesome, but even more so when they are shared and celebrated collaboratively. Experienced experts know the trends and the directions. The maps in their brains have been plotted with tracks, trails, roads and highways to outcomes that are guaranteed. Though if that certainty is not reached, they have the resilience to snap back to what has been taught them along the way and recalibrate. They have a toughened exterior that weathers them through. They have become a version of themselves that was never attainable at the early onset. So many things we can do to propel ourselves forward to the ultimate and best versions of ourselves… Events, courses education, bootcamps, brainstorming, podcasts in the car, yoga, 5am starts, cold showers, be vegan, be paleo! I’ll continue to do some of these things, and there is a bombardment of information and activity we can take on. However much of my best gained knowledge has been through sitting quietly, the stilling of my mind…. and all I had to do was just … listen. Listen to that person’s experience, acknowledge what they bring, and further empower them by giving them our respect. Collette Saunders @collettecutthroats Founder @australianfemalebarbers @afb_recruit Board Director @jackreedfoundation
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Does Beard Oil Cause Acne? BY DR BEN DE CAMPO – MILKMAN GROOMING CO
‘Does beard oil cause acne?’ This question may have crossed your mind or been put to you by a client from time to time. After all, oily skin is generally associated with an increased likelihood of breakouts so it would seem natural to think that adding oil would do something similar. In this article we examine when to use beard oil depending on skin type, as well as how to choose a beard oil that is less likely to cause clients problems with breakouts.
HOW SKIN TYPE PLAYS A ROLE IN THE EFFECTIVENESS OF BEARD OIL
The first thing to note is probably obvious, but nonetheless important. If your client has signs of ongoing acne breakouts, it’s best they avoid putting any products (including beard oil) on their skin without them getting prior medical advice. For these folks, there could be an imbalance in skin pH, natural oil production, bacterial growth, hormone levels and/or other factors that is causing their breakouts and applying cosmetic products could complicate the situation. Other clients may not have a particular problem with acne, but they have ‘oily skin’ which, in certain circumstances, can result in pimples forming under the beard. One of the main reasons for this is that this natural oil (or sebum) can fuel pimple-forming bacteria on the skin. For people in this situation, a beard oil is typically of little benefit to the skin in any event, because they produce sufficient amounts to keep things moisturised. Generally, they would not need a beard oil unless they are growing a long beard that is drying out at the tips. In this situation, applying beard oil or beard balm just to the ends of the hair will help keep it healthy (avoiding problems like split ends) without affecting the skin. At the other end of the spectrum are those clients with neutral to dry skin and no ongoing issues with breakouts. For them, an appropriately formulated beard oil should only help to moisturise and soften their skin and hair without causing problems.
HOW TO CHOOSE A BEARD OIL THAT’S GOOD FOR YOUR CLIENTS
As beneficial as beard oils are, some formulas can contain significant levels of ‘comedogenic’ (pore blocking) ingredients. Once the hair
follicles are clogged, all it takes is a bit of acne-causing bacteria to seep through and trigger blemishes. You may even see the odd client that already suffers from this. Typically, they will have acne breakouts of white bumps that are not excessively red or painful like hormonal acne. If you want to go deep on this, there are various lists of comedogenic ingredients available on the internet. However, be aware that these lists sometimes conflict (for example, I’ve seen hemp oil listed as ‘completely safe’ and ‘highly comedogenic’ on two different sites). Also, these lists do not reflect the impact of an ingredient in the final formulation. For example, you may see a claim that flax seed oil is comedogenic and assume a product containing it is bad without realising that only small amounts have been used so that the final formulation does not tend to cause any problems. To help make a rough assessment, you can look at the order the ingredients are listed on the label. These labels should list ingredients from highest to lowest concentration, so you get an approximate idea of how much has been used. If flaxseed oil is listed first, maybe that’s not a good sign. A quicker and easier method is to look for a light beard oil formulation that absorbs readily without leaving a slick on the skin. Ask for samples before choosing a beard oil brand to stock and try them out first. You might also look at product reviews to see if customers have had problems with that particular beard oil. Finally, the way you advise your clients to use beard oil is also critical. Typically, it’s recommended to apply the beard oil right after washing the beard so that it doesn’t cling to built-up dead skin and debris, exacerbating the growth of bad bacteria. In doing this, it’s also important to note that a little goes a long way when it comes to beard oil. A very light application is all that’s needed to give your client healthy skin & hair without any of the downsides.
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NEW GEAR NEW REUZEL REFRESH AND RESTORE SKINCARE FOR MEN
Give your clients the whole Reuzel experience with Refresh & Restore. A vegan, cruelty-free skincare line that is great for your face and your conscience. The line consists of a sulphate-free facial cleansing stick that provides a carefree application, a hydrating face moisturizer that works on all skin types and a non-greasy eye cream that helps reduce the appearance of dark circles. www.barbiereco.com.au
DENMAN JACK DEAN FADE BRUSH
The brush for a perfect fade. With extra-soft bristles, this brush gently removes cut hair allowing you to check for imperfections. www.barbiereco.com.au
EVO BOX O’ BOLLOX
The texture paste that gives you what you want. Create structured looks that remain in place with touchable texture and a natural matte finish. www.barbiereco.com.au
DARK STAG BARBER JACKET
Dark Stag introduces a brand-new version of the classic Barber Jacket. Available in sizes S-XXL, it’s a professional-grade garment guaranteed to enhance the style of any barber shop. Specifically crafted to combine form and function, the Dark Stag Barber Jacket will enhance the look of any barber and protect them and their clothing from the hardest of days in the barbershop. Based on the enduring and classic stylings of days gone by, the Dark Stag Barber Jacket’s designed to be worn and adored – by coiffeurs and their clients. Made of an optimum blend of cotton and polyester, it features easy to seal silver clasp popper and handy pockets for access to a barber’s essential tools. www.darkstag.com
THE LUXE BEARD WASH LEATHER AND CIGARS BY GARAGE BARBER
ZEXA CLEAN – SOAK IT
This truly luxurious beard wash with its velvety smooth feel conditions and cleanses both the Beard and the skin beneath superbly. The pump delivers generous measures of silky foam for easy and even distribution to the beard and face. Sulphate/Paraben Free. Vegan. Smells Devastatingly Handsome. Made in Australia with Certified Organic Ingredients and Love. www.garagebarberaustralia.com
Help prevent cross contamination between clients by soaking tools in disinfectant solution. Kills 99.9% germs. Softens & removes residue from Hair products. Anti-Rust. Australian Made and smells great! salestarakona@gmail.com
60 Barber Shop Year 10 Issue 2
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Silver Bullet Quantum Hair Dryer is the absolute professional hair dryer. An incredible 2300 watts powered by a longlife AC motor, 2 speed/3 heat settings and indispensable cold button.
ROSE GOLD FINESSE
The ultimate finishing tool is now available in rose gold. BaBylissPRO RoseFX FoilFX02 Metal Double Foil Shaver is a heavy-duty, dual foil shaver with extraordinary precision and close-cut performance.
NEW & INFLUENTIAL
Exciting 2021 additions to the popular BaBylissPRO Influencer Collection. Introducing GreenFX Skeleton Outliner Trimmer by Pat Regan, PurpleFX Outliner Trimmer by Frank Soto and RedFX Outliner Trimmer by Carlos Estrella.
CORDLESS HIGH TORQUE COLLECTION
Outstanding cutting action and precise control. BaBylissPRO GraphiteFX Lithium Duo Clipper and Trimmer Set features Japanese steel blades, advanced lithium power and high torque brushless motors.
SONIC SPEED AHEAD
With ultra-strong metal housing, Silver Bullet Sonic Speed Clipper is built for robust performance. 9000 rpm AC linear motor combines with lithium-ion polymer battery. 2 hour cordless runtime.
OUT-OF-THIS-WORLD PERFORMANCE
The clipper with out-of-this-world performance. Aim high with Silver Bullet Apollo Hair Clipper. This professional cord/ cordless hair clipper features ultra-hard titanium coated base blade combined with smooth ceramic cutting blade.
BARBERING WITH ATTITUDE
True to the roots of authentic barbering. Vines Vintage is a blend of quality ingredients, innovative formulas and passionate craftsmanship. Modern barbering and grooming products to finish and style hair.
BA R BER CHA IR S Check out Joiken’s full range of Barber Chairs @ www.joiken.com.au
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How can you prepare for Facebook’s iOS 14.5 update? BY GEORGE HAWWA, ATTENTION EXPERTS
We are in the midst of the next big shift in the ads ecosystem! Apple’s new iOS policy will require permission from users to track their activity across third-party companies’ apps and websites. You’re probably thinking, how will this affect my business and influence the data reported on the progress of my Facebook ads? To put it simply, the update will impact how Facebook receives and processes data from tools like the Facebook pixel. This means that if your business uses Facebook to optimise, target and report on web conversion events, you will be affected by the changes.
businesses and advertisers. That is why they have provided some very useful tips on how to draw up a plan moving forward for your business and provided considerations to keep in mind in the future. It may be quite a bit to wrap your mind around the changes and the impacts they will have on your business. That’s why the Attention Experts team is here! We can help your business grow by implementing the latest social media marketing strategies and best practices.
It’s not all bad news though! In response to these changes, Facebook will now be using Aggravated Event Measurement to process pixel conversion events. This new protocol has been designed to solve key advertiser use cases that are not addressed by Apple’s proposal, with limitations. Here are some steps that you can take to prepare your business and manage these changes: • Complete your domain verification. All businesses should verify their domain as best practice. • Plan to operate with eight conversion events per domain as part of the Aggravated Event Measurement protocol that Facebook will be implementing. • Select a single domain for conversion tracking. It’s important to note that not taking these actions could result in disruptions to your Facebook and Instagram advertising, including: • Inability to create mobile app install ad campaigns targeting users on iOS 14.5 and above. • Limited access to certain optimisation choices and the pause of certain ad sets. • Ad performance impact as delivery to users on iOS 14.5 and above may decline for certain ad sets. Facebook’s priority is to continue to provide stability to small
George Hawwa, CEO/Founder and Growth Director of Attention Experts, an award winning social media marketing and digital marketing agency servicing clients across Australia, New Zealand, South East Asia and the UK. Follow George on LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/george-hawwa/ Or make a booking for a FREE consultation with Attention Experts at www.attentionexperts.com
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Final Say… LOVE YOUR SISTER The Mocha Group, led by Linda Woodhead, aligned with Samuel Johnson and LoveYourSister in 2018 as an official affiliate fundraiser with a goal of raising $500,000 and by enlisting an incredible network of hair salons, beauty salons, spas and barbershops to help reach that goal and are well on the way to achieving this. Salon Registration for the 2021 Love Your Sister Campaign is open for the official Hair/Beauty/Barber Salon Pyjama Day to be held on Saturday July 31st 2021. Fundraising activity will commence on July 1st and continue until August 13th 2021. Having already raised over $150,000 the Mocha Angels hope that this year the hair, beauty and barber community will get back involved with as many activities as possible culminating in PJ Day, after having a little rest in their PJ’s in 2020! It all started with the most absurd dare you could imagine. Connie Johnson, young mum of two, was told that she was terminal with breast cancer and to arrange her affairs. Instead, she sent her brother, actor Samuel Johnson to ride around the entire country on a unicycle to personally remind every young mum in the land to check their boobs. Love Your Sister was born. After 364 days, over 1000 media calls, 450 community fundraisers and 40 school visits, Samuel finally returned to Federation Square and Connie’s waiting arms. The target of $10 Million has been reached and exceeded and there is now a new Breast Cancer Lab at Garvan which costs about 20K per month to operate. Any further monies are directed into general cancer research, including rare cancers. All salons and barbershops are encouraged to raise money from July 1st through to the close off date of August 13th and can do this any way they choose, culminating in Pyjama Day on Saturday 31st July!. On this day it is traditional for all staff to wear Pyjamas to work and raise as much as they can. In previous years the Pyjama Day campaign has seen individual salons between $100-$10,000 each!!! Let’s see what the entire hair, beauty and barbershop industries can do together! Samuel Johnson has said that he will also actively promote this activity as an incredible hair and beauty community initiative, founded by The Mocha Group and gain as much publicity as he can through his media channel contacts. On behalf of the Mocha Angels and LYS thank you for your support! You must register to be involved and to receive your information kit. Please go to https://www.surveymonkey.com/r/TYTGR8S
SHE IS NOT YOUR REHAB - ONE MAN’S JOURNEY TO HEALING AND THE GLOBAL ANTI-VIOLENCE MOVEMENT HE INSPIRED MATT BROWN WITH SARAH BROWN Cycles repeat until one person has the courage to say, ‘This stops with me.’ At My Fathers Barbers, Mataio (Matt) Faafetai Malietoa Brown offers men a haircut with a difference: a safe space to be seen and heard without judgement. From his barbershop chair, Matt has inspired a new generation of New Zealand men to break free from the cycle of abuse — and those men have in turn inspired him and his wife, Sarah, to create the global anti-violence movement, She Is Not Your Rehab. In this raw and unflinching book Matt shares his own story and those of his clients, of surviving family violence and abuse, and how they were able to find healing and turn their lives around. He introduces the people and concepts that have helped him heal and gives readers the tools they need to begin their own journeys. She is Not Your Rehab demonstrates the power of vulnerability and honesty in addressing pain and shame and shows how anyone can empower themselves by taking responsibility for their own healing. RELEASE DATE JULY 21, 2021 www.mightyape.co.nz
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R A G U S D E D D NO A SERVATIVES E R P D E D D A G NO N I L B D E D D NO A
wahlproaus
Wahl Professional Australia
Wahl Professional Australia
www.wahl.com
