barbershop Year 10 Issue 4
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CONTENTS ON THE COVER ZEROGAP & CLIPMASTER Cordless by American Barber- M&U Imports REGULARS 10 Editors Letter 60-61 Gear & News FEATURE 12-15 The Many Layers of Matty Conrad 16 Wheels Up – Lets Go To Spain 20 What Have I Been Up To By Sofie Pok 22 Bertus AKA The Bloody Butcher 24-26 When 2 Worlds Collide 28 Salvation – A Barbering Legacy 40 mochagroup Re-Fresh + Reset 42-44 mochamagic – meet the team
AWARDS 18 Best In Barbering Announced at AMBA 2021 59 AMBA 2021 Care, Treat & Beard Winners Announced PROFILE 30 Rockit 32 The Ugly Men’s Association Barber and Shave Shop 34 Young Turks – Barbers of Distinction Rebrands to By Jaymes 36-38 Tate & Lyle 46 Bar x Bar PRODUCT PROFILE 48 Everyones Going Nuts BLOGS 52 Letter To My Younger Self By Adam Vassallo 53 The Salon Powered By 100% Green Hydrogen By Paul Frasca 54 Who Do You Thing You Are By Collette Saunders 56 Client Language By Don De Sanctis HEALTH 58 Alopecia Areata By Professor Barry Stevens FTTS BUSINESS 62 How To Use Print Marketing To Attract More Customers By Nick Bendel 64 Why Social Media Marketing Is An Asset For Your Business By George Hawwa
COVER 14 16 32 36
www.muimports.com.au
2 Ardena Crt, Bentleigh East VIC 3165 Australia Phone: +61 3 9575 0600 Fax: +61 3 9575 0699
broshpomades.com.au
PUBLISHER
Linda Woodhead linda@mochagroup.com.au
EDITOR
Rex Silver rex@mochagroup.com.au
ADVERTISING MANAGER Nina Barbara nina@mochagroup.com.au
ART DIRECTOR
Kellie Woodhead kellie@mochagroup.com.au
CONTRIBUTORS
Rex A.C. Silver Sofie Pok Adam Vassallo Paul Frasca Collette Saunders 56 Client Language By Don De Sanctis Professor Barry Stevens FTTS Nick Bendel George Hawwa
OFFICE
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DISTRIBUTION
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HAIR BIZ, Beauty Biz and Barber Shop
Barber Shop is published four times a year by mocha publishing ABN 65 091 846 189 No Part of the publication may be reproduced in any manner or form without written permission. Barber Shop does not accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies, original artwork or other material. The views expressed in Barber Shop are not necessarily those of the publisher. No responsibility will be accepted if the publication is delayed or prevented by factors beyong the control of the publisher. No responsibility will be accepted for errors in copy, or for any loss arising from the failure of an advertisement or any part thereof to appear. © 2021 mochgroup All rights reserved.
editor’s letter We bring you BarberShop Magazine from the land of the Kabi Kabi and Yugambah peoples. A very warm welcome to you one and all wherever you are reading us. Ok, we are about to turn the lights up and the music down as we wrap up BarberShop Magazine’s 10th Birthday with our last issue for the year. Thanks for being on the show! We are also wrapping up some features within, as this issue bares the last instalments from our esteemed American and European correspondents. Sofie StayGold and Bertus the Bloody Butcher. I hope you have enjoyed getting to know these 2 amazing Barbers a little better as we followed them for a year. They both finish on a big note so get into those stories. I know they enjoyed the exercise themselves and they were absolutely thrilled to be with us. Fear not! it will not be the last time we see and hear from them I can assure you. There are some spoilers hidden the pages of this issue regarding some great things coming your way next year from BarberShop and the Mocha Group so keep readin’and get ready people! Welcome back to the floor our Sydney and Melbourne brothers and sisters we missed you and our thoughts were never far from you all. We check in with a shop from each of these fine cities this issue to say hi. Let’s unpack some early presents, Santa has a few treats for you. I love it when I approach a Barber Shop and ask them to do a feature with me and get blown off because they are too busy. I research my targets before I strike because when dig a little… you find GOLD. I don’t take it personally; I get them the following issue or one after that and it’s always worth the wait. This time it’s no different with The Ugly Men’s Association from Perth, you will agree…great barber story. Thank you, Rockit in Melbourne and Lyle & Tate in Sydney, for taking time with me after just coming back, when we celebrate our barber family in Australia, we become a closer and stronger family. We come in all different shapes and sizes and ‘Kitty no judge!’, we check out a 2-chair outfit and shine a light on these up and up and comers… By Jaymes, little shop BIG AMBITION! Got ya’ passports? I’m taking you around the world again…. Spain: Let’s check out the winners of The Spanish Hairdressing Awards – ‘Men’s.’ Two brothers, they both work on the same model at the same time! Mad right? Not their first jog around the block or award, insane talent… Hurry up back on the plane were going to the UK and then Canada. Thinking that you’re seeing a lot more hairdressing techniques and skills creeping into Barbering? We’ll here are two artists at the forefront of this new wave sweeping around our planet barber. James Beaumont and Matty Conrad, both double traded and both at the cutting edge of seeing these two creative arts collide!! Hairdressing and Barbering!! BOOM!! It’s the future… and I know most of you are already on top of it, a lot of you, all over it, I see it in your work and on your socials EMERGENCY EMERGENCY back to your seats and get your belts on! One of these guys predicts PERMING! I know right, just hold the bag over your mouth and try to
breath normally. Seriously, these two features are both awe inspiring, great talent and super cool guys. A lot of Barbers I meet and interview, a lot, started their hair journey at 14, you know cutting mates hair and stuff…not Lilly, she’s 8 YEARS OLD and she’s awesome!! She is the real deal and a 3rd generation barber to boot. Check out her story and her Dad Salvatore and see how our craft saved him and enabled him to pass on this amazing craft to his daughter who is totally invested in it. Our AMBA’s… Congratulations to the entrants, finalists and ultimate winners of the inaugural Australian Modern Barber Awards 2021!! It was an honour to be on the judging panel alongside some of the biggest names in our industry, Sofie StayGold, Leen & Bertus, Danny Amorim, Tim Shaw, Queen of the South Patti Plymire, Jürgen Niederl, Nieves Almaraz and the amazing Collette Saunders. WOW, tough gig! It seriously was a treat to see such a high level of submissions in all categories. Photographic… off tap!! Business and Education categories were epic also and showed us judges a snapshot in time if you will, of the inner workings of our industry and I have to say, it looks good!! Thank to our Business panel, Faye Murry, Julie Piantadosi, Phillip Fernandez, Louise May, Chrissy Algar, Donna Sillett, Anna O’Gorman, Sarah Garner and Alexandra Bilisi. This is Issue 10:4
Rex A.C. Silver Enjoy!!
Editor – Barbershop Magazine
How do read back issues? www.issuu.com search BarberShop How do I connect with Rex? @rex.a.c.silver
THE MANY LAYERS OF MATTY CONRAD WITH REX.A.C.SILVER
He kicked off his Barbering carer at the beginning of the rise of social media. His insights are invaluable on many levels, and on so many facets of our craft and he graciously passes this knowledge on to others along with amazing Barber skills, on his education platform, and globetrotting stage shows. GQ Magazine call him ‘The Coolest Barber on Instagram’, he calls himself ‘The World’s Luckiest Barber’. This is typical of the way Matty uses selfdepreciation, in a very healthy way I must add, and most often with hilarious rhetoric, when referring to himself or his success. It’s like he has an auto-check turned on that helps keep him grounded. It works; for a guy who could afford a little ego with the accolades, awards and success he has achieved in his career, you won’t see any of that here, just a down-to-earth Barber from Victoria, Canada.
LET’S MEET MATTHEW CONRAD.
I have been doing hair for over 20 years. I was a style deficient kid from a family that scored a -3 on the style scale. It was tragic. I grew up with a bunch of lopsided home haircuts and hand me downs from a brother almost 10 years older than me. Basically, the first 18 years of my life were one big, long awkward phase. When I was 18, I was working in a restaurant as a bus boy; at night all these people would come by after work and drink and have a good time. They were well dressed, they were stylish, they were cool…these people were hairdressers. This style deficient kid wanted to be just like them.
So, I went to hair school (I still remember the look on my dad’s face when I told him that I wanted to do hair for a living). I fell in love with the art form and the culture. I was always creative and good with my hands, so it was a great fit that way… but I didn’t know
anything about style, so I just copied what everyone else was doing. That worked out pretty well because I got really busy, but I never really felt like I knew enough about what I was doing. So, I started working for different companies to get as much free training as I could. About 10 years later I owned 2 salons had a staff of 30 and a successful stage artist career travelling all over the world.
But as things grew, I realised that I was still just trying to fit myself into the mould of hairdresser or what I thought that was supposed to look like. Basically, I looked like Rufio from the movie Hook. Then my grandfather died… we weren’t incredibly close when he was alive, but I remember sitting at his funeral and listening to all the things that were being said about him, and about the kind of man he was. Then my dad read out his high school yearbook quote… “I will never let anyone be more of a gentleman than I.” For some reason that resonated so deeply with me.
“Trends…First they are ironic, then they are edgy, then they mainstream.” It made me start thinking about life, about legacy, and about our place in it all. I took a long hard look at my life and let myself be honest for the first time; I realised
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that even though I was good at hair there were things about it I hated. I HATED BLOWDRYING. You have no idea how liberating it was to say that. I hated colour… took too long… the list went on and on. Now I’m not saying that those things are bad and I’m not saying that people shouldn’t love doing those things… What I am saying is that for ME and for my personality they are not things I enjoy. What I DID enjoy was technical haircutting; loved classic men’s haircuts, loved old stuff. LOVED it. One day about 8 years ago I realised that I was actually a barber. Keep in mind at the time barbering wasn’t cool. It wasn’t guys with beards and tattoos that rode motorbikes, but it was like discovering MYSELF!
I’ve never felt so much like I am living the most authentic life I possibly can. I no longer feel like I am trying to fit into a crowd or pretend to be something I am not. I made it my mission to try and bring pride and dignity back to the barbershop. There were only a few others around the world doing it at the time but now there are so many it’s hard to count them. Somehow along the way I have been fortunate to befriend and work alongside some of the best in the industry and have been called a pioneer, and icon, and an influencer… but truth be told, I am just a barber (and I’ve never been happier). Please tell us about your Barber Shops
My original barbershop was a love letter to my grandfather. For me, it was about bringing back pride and dignity to men’s grooming. Since the 60s, men had been relegated to the hair salon as second-class citizens, an afterthought. I wanted to create a place that brought back dignity, pride, and community to the men’s grooming experience. I designed it, helped build it, and decorated it with some of my most treasured antiques. Vintage chairs reclaimed floorboards, old lockers, reclaimed hotel window frames, real gold leafed lettering, taxidermy, my 1942 Harley Davidson — all these things were placed to create a uniquely masculine experience. We call it a heritage shop — not retro, because a retro shop is recreating a fixed point in time and isn’t allowed to evolve. A heritage shop respects and pays homage to the past and brings it into the present.
We did classic haircuts before they were cool and created an environment where young barbers could build a career and make a decent living to support their families. Most important of all, we have become a part of the fabric of our community, giving back whenever we can, donating our time and our resources to the people who need it most. We now have 3 shops and 2 bars. One is called Saint Franks which is a bar that has a speakeasy barbershop in the back of it, the other is a vintage inspired Tiki bar called TORA TIKI both located in Victoria). All told we employ roughly 40 people many of which have been with us since the very beginning in 2010. The design aesthetic I am most drawn to is the postindustrial WW2 era of the 1940’s. If truth be told, the barbershop was the most selfish project I have ever undertaken. I simply surrounded myself with all the things I found that made me feel something about our heritage and history. I love old stuff, especially barber chairs. I probably have one of the world’s largest personal collections of vintage chairs ranging from 1891-1955.
You are passionate about education and being an educator. Tell us more about this.
For me education was critical early in my career. When I left hair school, I could barely describe to you what layers were and like most people when they get started this, I felt like a bit of a fraud. That created a very real fear for me, so I started taking classes; any class I could get my hands on. I realised that the more I actually learned, the more I knew, the less I was afraid!
I started to view education as a means to grow more confident behind the chair, but it was also costly and time consuming. Eventually I figured out that working for hair care companies was a great way to get education for free if you were willing to teach it for them. So, I started working in the corporate side of the hair industry as an educator. In my almost 20 years as an educator, I have seen a lot of people get up on that stage and there always seems to be two types of platform artists, the one that comes across as let me show you what I can do, or the one who says let me show you what YOU can do. I always strived to be the latter. My goal is to remove the fear that many people have about cutting men’s hair because they are intimidated or feel like they can’t do it well, due to an over exposure of educators who just want to show off on Instagram; echo chambers full of impossible to reproduce haircuts.
My education is often over researched, very information and theory driven, and is almost 100% focussed on practical haircutting in the shop for actual patrons. Compared to so many barbers that are out there these days. cont’d over page
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cont’d from page 13 My work is not showy or flashy or exceptional in any way, it’s just GOOD. I don’t strive to be the best I just want to be good, and I want other people to be good. I want them to be less afraid, I want them to love their job and I want them to feel confident standing behind their chair so that they can take care of their patrons! Because for all the grandeur we have made barbering into in the last few years, I still believe that is the most important part. Tell us about your love of photography
I started doing photography in the early 2000’s because I owned a shop and I wanted to be able to put photos on the wall of the work we were doing there instead of posters from other people’s companies.
I was inspired by people like Anthony Mascolo who was both the creative artist and the photographer, I thought to myself, wouldn’t it be something to be able to compete in the various hair awards using my own photography! (A few years later I was doing just that and managed to collect a number of fairly prestigious awards). This was long before Instagram and Facebook were a thing. When I started, the digital SLR was a relatively new thing and the ability that it gave people to learn photography on the fly was massive. You could see the results of your lighting instantly; you could learn how to adjust the camera controls and you could digitally develop your own work. To be honest my first few shoots were complete garbage but I kept at it and eventually I figured out many of the skills I needed to be a fairly competent photographer. By the time Instagram showed up I was already quite a bit ahead of the curve, so it was pretty easy to stand out. My work was fairly unique and my low-contrast, gritty, black and white style was just what I liked. The most important thing about developing a brand is developing a consistent look. Which sounds easier than it is when your brand starts to include more than just pictures of haircuts. I always tell people that branding is just developing a lens through which you see things and through which you show other people things. So having a style that is authentically yours is the first and most important step. Don’t copy anybody else’s if you can help it! While we all find influence and inspiration from each other’s work there is always something unique that you can bring to it. Create your own style I have a few online resources that are designed to help people with their photography skills, and I find it is a much more common request for in person classes these days. Tell us about your Victory product range.
I worked for a number of product companies for years and I was often involved in helping to develop or test products for them and I was always thinking “why don’t you just make……. Or this should be more like………” eventually I decided I had to put my money where my mouth was.
I started the product line long before there was a grooming range. The shop was called Victory Barber & Brand from day 1 so the idea was always to be more than just a barbershop. When we started the shop in 2010, I was personally making small batch beard products in my kitchen. Oils and balms were not quite a thing yet, but I had found some interesting recipes in some old apothecary books, and they were very popular with our clients! … (Fun fact - I handmade all the beard oil and beard balm until just last year. It was a big job). After that we started making shaving tools and BARBERMADE aprons… which have been unquestionably our biggest success. What started out as just a convenient uniform for our team has become a staple for the whole industry. We likely have the best-selling apron in the industry. 14 Barber Shop Year 10 Issue 4
“Fall in love with the process. Painters don’t paint because they want a collection of paintings, they paint because they find some sort of fulfillment in the process of creating their art.”
In 2017 I finally launched a grooming range starting with the POMADE that I had designed, because it’s what my grandpa would have used. It is full of completely unique, premium formulations, that are all designed and tested by barbers to help every man create a diverse range of styles that express his own uniquely handsome style. Typically, start-up brands simply repackage existing products with their own labelling. I don’t really believe in that. I needed to develop something of my own. Each product undergoes a ton of testing and revisions until we feel like it’s exactly what we need to create the kind of work we want to do. I designed everything about it from the ground up, even learned to design the packaging; every element has my fingerprints on it. Our line has grown so much in the last few years even managing to survive covid closures and a global manufacturing crisis. We are currently found in almost a thousand shops across North America and have been able to work with some of the biggest names in barbering. Your work envelops many modern hairdressing and cutting techniques. Where do you see men’s grooming heading and the skill set we should be learning to be on top of our game.
A lot has changed in barbering in the last decade. We are in a period where a super trend (classic haircuts & fades) is subsiding, and a more fractionalized trend approach is taking hold. This always happens when a trend becomes too mainstream. There will be people desiring a more individualistic look; this usually means length and texture. Historically following a period of uniformity there is a push towards rebellion; contrarian is cool. I am seeing a lot of flow mid length hairstyles and texture coming back. So, focus on your scissor work! In the 60’s when the unisex hair salon was born barbers were ill equipped to create the longer moppy looks that the Beatles made popular… because to that point they were too used to doing short clipper cuts. Don’t be surprised if you see perms show up… mullets go mainstream... moustaches too… first they are ironic, then they are edgy, then they mainstream!
60 SECOND SPEED DATE WITH MATTY CONRAD Favourite Destination in the World ITALY… literally anywhere in Italy especially Sorrento . Favourite Food Sushi Favourite Movie BAND OF BROTHERS It’s not really a movie …more of a mini-series… but it wins hands down Favourite Book
Fiction - The Count of Montecristo
Self Help - The Subtle Art of Not Giving a F$#k Non-fiction - Cash (Johnny Cash’s Autobiography)
What/Who are you reading right now? Sapiens by Yuval Noah Harrari
What/Who are you listening to right now? Carl Perkins…. I’m a sucker for Rockabilly @mattyconrad
@victorybrand
Wheels Up! ! n i a p S o t o G Lets WITH REX.A.C.SILVER
I love bringing you the different colours, sights and layers of our craft from all around the globe as we discover together, the multi-verse of this industry and all it has to offer, all the while inspirationally absorbing the creativity of our peers, their insights and a peak into their hair worlds.
FIRST SOME HISTORY…
Named after the most famous fictional barber in Western culture, the protagonist of the opera The Barber of Seville, by Giacomo Puccini, Club Fígaro is probably the most ambitious project in the Hairdressing sector in Spain. A non-profit associative project created in 2009 by seven of the main hairdressing firms in the country. An initiative of Mikel Luzea (Pamplona) that reunited Felicitas Ordás (Barcelona), Gemis (Valencia), Óscar G (Vitoria), Rizos (Madrid), X-pressure (Madrid) and Toni & Guy (Valencia) to create the beginning of a professional association whose main objective was the creation of the Spanish Hairdressing Awards. The main sponsor since its inception has been Revlon Professional España. The Spanish Hairdressing Awards covers every facet and category in the profession, but we are here to celebrate the winners of Men’s Category…moving along.. 16 Barber Shop Year 10 Issue 4
WINNERS
David and Marcus Siero. Name of Collection: Hermitage Road Congratulations from Australia gentlemen, tell us a little about yourselves. We were two brothers eager to learn and go to London to leave a legacy in Spain. We both started in Spain in a large firm called Rizos, but after working for a short time in Spain we traveled to London to make a living and work in one of the best companies in the sector at that time. By working in one of the most competitive and creative companies, your creative gene comes out and from there you train and create collections while learning with the best. What is it you love about Men’s’ Hair Fashion? We love men’s fashion, we always look at big catwalks and brands such as Gucci, Prada, D&G, etc. And from there we observe what people is wearing. We like both the creation process and obviously the end result.
The inspiration behind the collection? The inspiration of HERMITAGE ROAD is a bit of a tribute to London, to all the years we lived there. Its name comes from the street where we lived and the warehouse we had on that same street where we could watch fashion go up and down every day. Warehouses were places where very cool people met, and they were fashionable. That’s where the main inspiration comes from. As for the collection, you can see different lengths and textures that make it a complete and balanced collection. We have also added black hair, which we think is a very striking trend nowadays. Also, notable bangs, pure geometries and SIËRO textures. What does it mean for you to win this award? It has been a pride and a pleasure to get our 5th Fígaro Award, and our 2nd in the men’s category, and the truth is that we celebrate it in style the way it should be, right? Haha! We love trying to better ourselves year after year and get the job done right. Our goal for the future is continuing to build and position the SIËRO brand both nationally and internationally. @club.figaro
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@davidsiero
@sierohairstudio
BEST IN BARBERING ANNOUNCED FOR THE FIRST TIME AT INAUGURAL AUSTRALIAN MODERN BARBER AWARDS 2021
AUSTRALIAN MODERN BARBER BUSINESS OF THE YEAR LEIGH WINSOR – AREA STUDIO
Sunday the 5th December saw barbers and shop owners around the country watching on as the first ever AMBA winners were named during the long awaited livestream announcement via social media. Australia’s new premium awards program for the male grooming industry, the AMBA’s were launched to provide men’s hairdressing trailblazers with a much needed and often requested benchmark of excellence and platform to showcase their creative and business skills.
Created by esteemed trade visionaries Mocha Group, owners of the Australian Hair Industry Awards and Australian Beauty Industry Awards, these are just the latest initiative revolutionising the way our local visionaries are able to engage with consumers and show off their creative and business talents.
BEST MENS COLLECTION - CLASSIC LEIGH WINSOR – AREA STUDIO
BEST MENS COLLECTION - FREESTYLE JOHNNY GEORGIOU - BARBERY THE CRAFT OF A BARBER
Consisting of 14 categories including the AMBA Australian Modern Barber of the Year and the AMBA Australian Modern Barber Business of the Year, they were deliberated on by an independent panel of judges including media, PR and business specialists, national and international barbering icons and specialists in the barbering industry. With men’s grooming an increasing player in the global beauty market this is a timely marker of the industry’s importance and an exciting sign of things to come.
The awards were due to culminate in the first AMBA gala event in Melbourne at the Plaza Ballroom in December, but with border restrictions in place the event was pivoted to an online livestream with barbers gathering with their peers and celebrating a little closer to home as winners were announced.
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2021 AMBA WINNERS BEST TEAM COLLECTION – AREA STUDIO
CARE, STYLE AND BEARD PRODUCT AWARDS Sponsored by Barbershop Magazine BEST IN CARE Justice Professional - Cool Mint Shampoo & Conditioner CARE, STYLE AND BEARD PRODUCT AWARDS Sponsored by Barbershop Magazine BEST IN STYLE Hanz De Fuko - Claymation CARE, STYLE AND BEARD PRODUCT AWARDS Sponsored by Barbershop Magazine BEST IN BEARD Mr Muk - Beard Oil BEST MENS COLLECTION - CLASSIC Sponsored by Milkman Grooming Co Leigh Winsor – Area Studio
AUSTRALIAN MODERN BARBER BUSINESS OF THE YEAR - NEW YORK BARBERS
BEST MENS COLLECTION - FREESTYLE Sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional Johnny Georgiou - Barbery the Craft of a Barber BEST TEAM COLLECTION Sponsored by American Crew Area Studio BEST CUSTOMER CARE Sponsored by Shortcuts Grand Royal Barbers BEST BARBERSHOP DESIGN Sponsored by Babyliss Pro New York Barbers BEST BUSINESS DIRECTOR/OWNER OF THE YEAR Sponsored by Depot – The Male Tools & Co. Don De Sanctis – Barber Boys BEST MENS EDUCATOR OF THE YEAR INDIVIDUAL OR ORGANISATION Sponsored by Excellent Edges Fraser Forsey - Barber Education Australia
BEST BARBERSHOP DESIGN - NEW YORK BARBERS
SPECIAL RECOGNITION AWARD Sponsored by Barbershop magazine and Andis Eoin McCarthy AUSTRALIAN MODERN BARBER OF THE YEAR Sponsored by The Barbiere Company Leigh Winsor – Area Studio
19 Barber Shop Year 10 Issue 4
AUSTRALIAN MODERN BARBER BUSINESS OF THE YEAR Sponsored by Wahl Professional New York Barbers
“You could go far on your own, but you will fly if you have the right team of support.” Just when I thought it was going to slow down during the holidays it actually picked up for the first time in my entire career. Firstly, let me just say thank you to you Rex for interviewing me for this past year for Barber Shop Magazine, it’s been a pleasure to do these quarterly recaps, it’s been a unique exercise as they have been a way for me to reflect back on such a great year. We must remind ourselves of these blessings constantly so that we stay in a state of appreciation. What a wild year it’s been full of ups and downs because you know, for half of it, for us here in Los Angeles CA, we were closed-up due to the pandemic. I would like to say it started to open-up around June, halfway through, and then there started to be a just this rush of events, back-to-back, I think maybe because we didn’t know if or when would be the next time, they would shut us down again. It just seemed like everyone lived for the moment, and everyone was just trying to enjoy anytime out of the house they had, because of our recent lockdowns during that time. Fast forward the last three months, and hair shows started to open back up, and we were reunited with our friends from all over the US! What a sweet connection it is to have with like-minded individuals, who are working towards goals like yours. it’s like seeing a long-lost friend and being able to instantly pick up where you left off. It was always a lovely time being on the road, well for short bits anyway...But then when I got back home… I was just surprised at these new enquiries, with Brand Partnerships and for shooting content for other influences. It’s like a whole new world, using tools that I had already learned … but creatively thinking in different way. The coolest thing about it all, is that I got to work with brands outside of hair. Just this year alone I got to do campaigns with Instagram, Footlocker, Reebok, Champs, Montejo Beer, El Polo Loco and most recently… Rhianna Fenty’s Skin Line. A few articles back Rex, we did a talk about my love for photography and videography. These platforms have also landed me new opportunities. To film influences with brands like Dell, McDonald’s and one I’m really stoked on that’s not out yet (BarberShop Exclusive!) Jordan! On top of that, I got to film my first live festival ‘Rolling Loud’ in Miami…and… a Meek Mill concert in New York City, featuring many other artists, but most recent I was covering news at Complexcon, a two-day convention that highlights pop culture, fashion, art, food, sports and music. Being with the Lab Studios, my girlfriend’s company, has opened many doors for me.
Many of the things I’ve mentioned above would not be possible without a team. It’s important to know each person brings different values to the table. I’ll be honest, I’m never 100% prepared for all these events, but I can bet on my work ethic, and the support from my team, then I’ll figure it out. There’s always hiccups along the way but being a professional and having high standards, you will go to the ends to make sure you’re proud of what you put out and stamp your name on, no matter what crazy obstacles happen. It’s been a fun and adventurous road and I really can’t wait to see what comes from it. It’s already November and I still have some trips pending with video!! Now to swing it back to hair, we’re finishing off the year strong with new content for STMNT Grooming! I can’t believe we are only a year old! we’ve had nothing but great and positive feedback from all over, and we’re still launching in new countries. Last hair show of the year is in Los Angeles, right here in our backyard, and a new set of tools that BaByliss are dropping, which is always exciting. STMNT will have a booth and it’s just going to be a sweet way to end this amazing year. Alright guys once again it’s Sophie Staygold and I’m officially signing off!! Enjoy your holiday season … my final piece of advice: Train hard in what you want to accomplish, and never let someone who doesn’t do what you do, give you advice on how you should or not do it. Follow what lights you up and makes you happy, time is gonna pass regardless, so spend it doing what you love :) Thank you Rex @staygold31
21 Barber Shop Year 10 Issue 3
EUROPEAN CORRESPONDENT ROBERT-JAN RIETVELD
BERTUS AKA THE BLOODY BUTCHER WITH REX.A.C.SILVER
This is the last of 4 instalments with Bertus the Bloody Butcher of Rotterdam as our European correspondent, it’s been an honour to have him with us this year. We’ve managed to cover many aspects of what this very busy Barber does throughout his work year and what a whirlwind it’s been. Music has always been a huge driving force for Robert when it comes to finding, and being a source of inspiration for his creativity, he touches on this in detail in this piece. Each year Schorem produce a rock show for their customers friends and fans. Last year with all the lockdowns they had to do a live streaming event but this coming February it’s back on, I’m talking about Scumbash 2022, Let’s check that out before we get to hair. On Music… Music has always been there. The backbone of the thing that we do you know, because most of our haircuts are subcultural. So next to being classic, there’s a lot of rock and roll influences, you know, I love writing about it too. You know because it’s about tribes’ man, it’s about street tribes, urban tribes. Back in the day a haircut would really show from a distance, what tribe you were, especially in rock and roll. That was very important you know, it’s not just the leather jacket, it’s the haircut that goes with it. So, when we started, most of our clients actually played in bands and stuff. It was all small (the scene) so when Schorem Became a little bit more successful and with people knowing us, like your everyday Joe, they saw the haircuts that we were doing and they were like, oh my God, these are excellent. So that’s pretty much how we lost a lot of our original clients from all the bands… because of the waiting times, the barbershop became so busy we just lost those guys. So, we were like what can we do to give something back to the subculture, the subculture we love and believe so strongly that really helped us become who we were, so then we organised the first Scumbash. This will be a 6th one, even with the lockdowns last year we went ahead with an online event because we really wanted to celebrate our 10th anniversary of Schorem. It wasn’t the real thing, but we did it and we all know there’s nothing better than a live event. Live music and the band saying we were into is what really binds Leon and myself, it was always about going to gigs, that was our whole life since we were 14. It was all about the gigs. We used to go to gigs all over, we were a little crazy back then ,actually we were really crazy! We would drive for 12 hours to go to a festival, and it just wasn’t about the gigs and the festival, it was the whole experience. The road trip… getting buzzed about what we’re about to do, what we’re about to see and what we’re about to hear…We would make these playlists you know, of the bands that we were going to see 22 Barber Shop Year 10 Issue 3
and the fun that we would have with that man wow… would like to pull over and spend the night somewhere in the Czech Republic just to see one band…crazy man. It was a trip, we would be like eating in these restaurants on the side of the road… it was so cool driving through Germany, Leen loves cars so he’s always had fast cars you know, old cars, and in Germany you can drive fast! it was all part of the experience, we just really loved the live music and Rotterdam, has always been a good town for live music man. Scumbash has grown and grown, and now we have around 5000 people come, we started out with three bands and now we have around 25 bands on the bill, it’s really cool. It’s been harder and harder trying to find a suitable venue, but we managed to get an old submarine dock …yeah man some old submarine docks, it’s gonna be fantastic!! During the conversation Robert draws similarities that he feels are quite parallel to him and being in a Rock Band in that going to see your favourite band play your favourite song, is very similar to Bertus and Leens fans that come to their shows to watch them do their favourite haircut. Robert and his photographer Jelle Mollena have just found a new studio space. Robert warns us we better be prepared for what’s coming’ because they can’t wait to get really productive. And on what’s happening artistically within himself… Schorem is never going to change, Schorem is a barbershop, and we specialise in classic haircuts, but with me having Reuzel, and being in between Reuzel and Schorem, I’m in the perfect position to do I want. I look at what people want, and I look at what I want, and I’m in between… so I’m doing fashion and I’m doing this classic thing that I really, really love, but I’m evolving. I don’t know where I’m going to go with my haircuts, but I know exactly what I find attractive to the eye and that’s what I’m going to produce. The Cruella Shoot So, let’s take this model I did a couple of days ago the Cruella de Vil because this is a great example of how my creative mind works the idea for this shoot literally came from my girlfriend and me watching Cruella on Disney. The idea in my head wasn’t a girl, it wasn’t a Roach project piece either. The thing is I just go into auto mode, and I knew I just had to do it …I had this model in mind who works with us, and I really wanted to see this guy in this role… I feel it’s gender fluid and that’s what I love about it. I loved everything about it …I loved the fashion in this movie, it just really got me inspired I was I was blown away. This is different to me doing a hair model’ cause something comes into my head, and I’m shooting it differently because I can tell a story, it’s not just a haircut shoot it’s very different. So, there’s a lot of influences in here too, I was inspired by Cruella but there is a little bit of A Clockwork Orange, there’s a little bit of Grace Jones in there, and a little bit of Prince. It takes a village, Robert’s girlfriend Iris Hoeben did the colour and makeup, of course Jelle Mollena behind the camera, ‘everyone’s a stylist’, and they had to source a dog too, so props to the owner for that! Next year we have secured an exclusive with the elusive, that’s right, BarberShop will be with Leen! In one form or another stay tuned for that! We will also be covering ROACH after its universal launch and talking to the man, Roberts creative right hand in his words, Jelle Mollena, I bet all the budding photographers out there can’t wait for that, I know I am certainly looking forwards to some insights from this amazing man. @the_bloody_butcher 23 Barber Shop Year 10 Issue 3
@jelleinmyear
@irishoeben
WHEN 2 ARTISTIC WORLDS COLLIDE BY REX A.C. SILVER
Hailing from The United Kingdom, James Beaumont is an International Men’s Hairdressing educator, and the Global Ambassador for the Keune Haircosmetics Men’s Range; 1922 by J.M Keune. The Creative Director and partner of Longbrook Hair and Beauty Salon, originally founded by his father and chief mentor Richard in 1974, James brings his highly refined hairdressing skills, and marries them with modern contemporary barbering, in a seamlessly intertwined dance that merges the two artistic forms together in an exciting display of movement, texture and form.
Tell us about your early days in the trade and what drove you to excel to such a high level, mentors, dreams and goals. Along with Richard, my father, visiting Salon International at a young age I got to see the atmosphere from the creative side to our industry which inspired me. Being given the opportunity and privilege of becoming an educator for Keune years ago, kept me focused, I strived to do my very best. They taught me how to project my knowledge. I was lucky to have my best mentor in the family, another mentor and friend who always inspires and motivates me is Dove Palmer, check him out for a precision artist. One of my dream goals was when I arrived at Keune Haircosmetics 90th anniversary, this is one of hell of a show, over four thousand hairdressers, an incredible stage. A seriously inspiring show with some of the best global hairdressers showcasing their talent, I stood there in awe and from then on, my goal was decided, in 10 years would be their 100th anniversary and I was determined be on that stage. Five years later I hit the stage launching their new men’s range for the 95th anniversary showcasing my work and I couldn’t have been more happier, a memory to always treasure. Dreams can come true, aiming high with hard work working with a passion you can achieve.
Please tell us about your bespoke education services. The education platform ‘Male focus’ the focus is the detail of purity when working with hair, the explanation and method has a meaning to how and why and very importantly, when we deliver certain methods and techniques. I don’t just show case a haircut, the information excels to how to alter a design to fit other subjects such as head shape, face shape, textures, following to proportions and geometry of the designs. I break my education into many factors, we have 3 subjects within the foundation, then following to the creative courses. One to one can be bespoke by having consultation with the client to see what he or she wishes to improve on. What’s it like being a Global Ambassador for a brand? Becoming a global ambassador of Keune was most definitely a highlight within my career. One of my memorable experiences, myself and my good barber friend Tom Chapman were launching the range to a meeting with Keune’s global distributors. This was an event held on the top floor of the tallest hotel in Amsterdam, The Sir Adam Hotel. Over ninety countries of distributors from all over the world were observing the two of us deliver a very important presentation; a showcase of the range. It was an incredible high-class event, spectacular experience.
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Also, our Australian visit was one of my favourite events, we held the 1922 by J.M Keune presentation for the ‘A DAY WITH KEUNE’ hair show in The Star Sydney casino, an incredible show full of inspiration, super after party too, I highly recommend a visit to this Event. You are a multi-award-winning artist, kudos for the achievements James, why is competing so important to you? Thank you for the title! At first it was my goal in getting my name out there. I wasn’t living in London where the big companies were. I was working in the south of England in Exeter. I needed to get my name out there, so competitions gave me that stool to leap from. NHF Men’s British photographic trophy was my first, then I achieved it second time around after which people became interested in my work. Competitions certainly were my launch pad, from the exposure and seeing myself grow I thought this was the right road of competitions, they are also actually a good marketing tool, the more I achieved of becoming a finalist the more people wanted to know how I create which followed on for selling my education. I absolutely love the project of entering a competition, my philosophy is to enjoy every process of what you do, don’t focus on the end result, just enjoy the process and the result will surprise you. I get very involved, research into catwalks, what’s trending in the complete attire, what everyone’s doing in other competitions, are there some trends emerging etc. From all of this I create approx. three mood boards per model, one for the attire, one for the haircut design (different variations that could suit) and another for the hair styling, the model’s hair texture what can we do with it within different lengths. These boards get my brain popping, exciting. Bringing the boards back in on the day of the shoot reactivate the brain which again expands the vision. One tip is always style the models hair in a few different ways to pick the best variation, play music, which helps with the vibe and in facts unlocks creativity. Let’s talk about your photography and how that adds another dimension to your creativity and ability to present your work. I started working with my photographer Felix Northover when he was aged 16 straight out if college. We literally learnt of each other. We were both young, excited to learn new things therefore we grew over the years together. Felix is fantastic and we both enjoyed spending a lot of time on a shoot to find new angles and new lighting ideas with photography and hair to ensure it worked well together as you can capture hair as an art so well.
Unpack for us your NOXIOUS collection, where you have stated, “Two Artistic Worlds Collide” by wonderfully combining the two skills of Barbering and Hairdressing. My education is a refined hairdressing terminology and I also love working with the barbering tools, Noxious was released around 2018, this is when the hairdressing vision or trends would, I say, started to come into the barbering industry. With this collection I wanted to express them both but on quite an extreme creative level. The model Ross, with white and grey hair was actually inspired by “reptile scales” as you can see the patterns around the back of the head, also the texture shapes silhouette gives a shape reptile pattern, including the tone. Emjay the model with the neck tattoo is a more rounded 70s volumed shape. Henry the model who wears the short finger waved crop for softness, but also sharp clipper design on the side to balance the strength. Charlie the model in denim was something where I wanted to try out colour pixels, patterns within the colouring process to give an even more harassing vibe.
@james_beaumont
26 Barber Shop Year 10 Issue 4
SALvation
A Barbering Legacy FROM THE STREETS OF PHILADELPHIA… TO 7 BARBER SHOPS BY REX A.C. SILVER SALVATORE GIANNONE & LILLY GIANNONE SAL’S BARBER SHOPS, 7 LOCATIONS IN PHILADELPHIA PA This is an amazing story of resilience and triumph, passion and love. This story encapsulates what this trade, in essence can do for you, your spirit and your soul. It can enable you to realise yourself and your dreams and enable you to afford those dreams. This is a story about how Barbering saved a man and brought him back from the edge of the abyss, from where he not only then found himself, but he also found the ability within himself to reconnect with his family and learn this age-old trade of from his Grandfather and pass it on again. Barbering brought him back from off the streets, and out of jail. He now owns seven award winning shops and has the next generation of Giannone’s hot on his heals to learn the trade, his daughter Lilly, who is just 8 years old.
WORDS BY SAL: So, I didn’t always want to be a barber, I wanted to be an artist. I had it pretty rough growing up with domestic violence and drug and physical abuse. I hid in my drawing pad; it was the only place I felt safe. I just knew I wanted to get away from where I grew up and start a fresh life. So, I studied hard to become a graphic designer and I got a full scholarship to one of the top art schools in the USA. When I got to college, I got into drugs, drinking and partying and eventually got expelled. I felt defeated and deflated, hopeless with no future. For three years I ate from trash cans abused drugs and slept outside in the elements. I was sick of being sick and tired. I knew I had more to offer the world than being a drug addict. After 13 trips to county gaol with three felonies. I made a promise to myself that I would get sober, change my life and finally live up to my potential. My Grandfather was a Barber from Italy who came to America with $1 and a dream. When I was on my last hope, I turned to him to teach me the art of barbering. I became his apprentice sweeping floors and learning the ways of the barbershop. After about a year I was licenced and worked alongside of him. I had finally found my niche. 28 Barber Shop Year 10 Issue 4
My father was 49 when he died of a sudden massive heart attack. I spoke with my Grandfather about death and regrets, and he said his only regret was not opening his own barbershop. I didn’t know that would be our final conversation because the next day my Grandfather died two weeks after my father, of a broken heart. I was alone again just like when I was homeless cold and helpless. God took everything from me in those two weeks. Everything but my determination. Two years later I opened my first barbershop with my last dollar to my name and it was an instant success. After you opened your first shop, how did you get to the 2nd and 3rd up to the 7th? I started to scout out new territories out of need because I was training barbers quickly and needed to expand my business to other local towns that were in need of barbers. I was also lucky to have TYRIK JACKSON’S Premier Barber institute in my town, and I was able to hire these young talented barbers from his school. Not only was I building a family at home, but I was building a family of barbers as well! Before I could blink, I had seven shops in six years with a team of award-winning barbers. Barbering is in your blood you are part of three generations of barbers in your family let’s introduce generation 3, Lilly. Tell us about how Lilly started barbering and her story in your eyes. During the beginning of the pandemic the state of Pennsylvania shut down all Barber shops. I almost lost it all, I was faced with still paying the cost of a home and business with zero income. I was beyond stressed out worrying about the future of my franchise. I was also in desperate need of a haircut. The day before Lily’s 7th birthday I asked her to buzz off all my hair. She gladly did so, she took to it like a natural and did a great job. She had always been artistic like me. Growing up around the shops she knew the lingo and tools and we began to experiment.
“LILLY WOULD COME IN AT 6:00 AM ON SUNDAY WITH HER FATHER SAL, SHE WOULD WATCH AND LISTEN TO HIM WHILE HE WAS CUTTING MY HAIR. ONE SUNDAY SHE WAS GIVEN A CHANCE TO DO MY HAIR CUT WHICH LED TO ANOTHER CHANCE TWO WEEKS LATER AND NOW SHE CUTS MY HAIR REGULARLY. IT’S GREAT TO SEE HER CONFIDENCE GROW WITH EACH HAIRCUT SHE HAS ALWAYS BEEN CONFIDENT WHICH MAKES IT EASY TO BE RELAXED.” - US MARINE JERRY DAVIS
She then cut her cousin’s hair with scissors and lined up my beard with a straight razor like it was something she’d been doing for years, even though it was only her first time. She began to come to work with me as early as 5:00 AM to learn the craft my Grandfather had passed down to me. I was blown away by her focus and passion and willingness to learn she was a natural.
WORDS BY LILLY: You’re a master of the cutthroat, talk to us about your confidence with the razor. I was scared at first, but once my father taught me how to hold it and told me about the angle and pressure, I got the hang of it quickly. It is now my favourite tool to use, I love doing beards and shaves. What do you love about Barbering? It’s like an art and I am good at it so that helps too! I have fun with the tools, and it helps my confidence to know I can do anything I put my mind to. When do you Barber? During the summer months I work alongside my father any chance I can. I am still a kid, and I must pass third grade, so during the school year I can only work on Sundays with my father. Do you have regulars? I have a few. I do a flat top every two weeks and I have a marine named Jerry that comes in 6:00 AM every other week. I am very lucky that I have so many clients that let me practise on them, uncles and cousins as well. My father was my first client and that started it all. What’s your favourite service or cut to perform? My favourite haircut to perform is a flat top. I like to see how straight and flat I can get the hair! It’s a hard cut to do but I like it because it gets me better. I also like to do shaves as well. Please tell us about your first competitions. My first competition was the student category at the Connecticut Barber Expo. I was told it is the biggest competition in all the United States. I was 29 Barber Shop Year 10 Issue 4
nervous and doubted myself at first, but my dad told me that it didn’t matter if I win or lose, just that I learn and try. So, I was still nervous but after watching my dad compete and being on stage with him and watching him win, gave me confidence. I put on my hat and chewed some gum and focused on the hair cut in front of me, which was my dad. I forgot I was on stage and the people in the crowd didn’t matter, only the haircut, just like we were in the barbershop. I was ranked 5th place out of 32 competitors from all around the world. I was called onstage, and everyone cheered, and it made me feel so great. Is this what you want to do when you get older? Yes, for sure. I will run the family business I always wanted to be a Barber and a Mommy, one day I will be both. You’ve already worked with some big names tell us about those experiences. I was approached by Level 3 at the Barber Convention, and they offered me a role as the future ambassador of the company. I’m looking forward to filming videos and being on stage with some of the best barbers in the industry this coming summer 2022. Finally, Lily, what are your Clippers of choice walk us through your favourite tools and products to use. My favourite Clippers are my purple BaByLiss FX trimmers, but I use Gamma, JRL and Andis Clippers as well... I love to see and try all the new innovations in the industry. Sal has been sober 15+ years and would like to send a special thank you and shout out to his beautiful wife and best friend Kristen, who has been there on this journey with Sal every step of the way from the beginning of his sobriety through to their 7 shops. They share 2 other daughters Grace 5, and Penny 2, vocations yet to announced. @salsbarbershopsvip @lacedbylilly
ROCKIT
He started his apprenticeship at 17 and today Evan Rolton has been in the industry 26 years. Evan began Barbering at the age of 22 when he moved to Australia from New Zealand and has come a long way from the young boy, who at 14 started cutting his mates hair with his grandfather’s clippers. His Barber Shop ROCKIT, is in the heart on Melbourne’s CBD and is now 16 years strong.
EVAN, PLEASE SHARE WITH US THE STORY OF ROCKIT BARBER SHOP. The doors opened in September 2005, grand final eve, before it was a public holiday in Melbourne. We did 8 services that day. We are still in the same shop now, we’ve gone through a couple of slight changes, with additional chairs coming in. We based the shop on a classic 1950’ 60’s era barbershop, Rockabilly hair & lifestyles and the moon race, formed the inspiration behind the name. That’s how we came up with Rockit. Inside the shop we have a very large glass Wunderkammer of vintage coke bottles, old razors, and oiled artifacts of Bakelite and stainless steel, and who is allowed to have a toy room at home? So, the shop became the display room for all childhood toys, from the 80-90’s and memorabilia of all barbering over the years. Culture wise, we have thrived on a very laid-back atmosphere, 90% of our customers work in office jobs, and they like to come in a switch off from reality, have a laugh, talk the talk, and enjoy the sport on tv. Basically, we make it feel like a local hang out, where a CEO can sit down beside a bricklayer and enjoy a beer, chat, and the experience.
TELL US ABOUT THE SUCCESS YOU HAVE ENJOYED OVER THE LAST 16 YEARS. I believe the success we have enjoyed over the last 16 years is listening to what our customers want and delivering that. Ultimately this is why we are here. You can walk in, sit in the chair have a laugh, join in the banter. 95% of our customers are return visits. We are often complimented that that it is almost like time stands still. Even as the years go by, our product remains consistent. We’ve had guys who haven’t been in the country for 10 years come back and there like, “it’s great to come back to something familiar.” We have supported some local charities by doing events where we donate all the takings to charity for the day, we also get into the local cycling community and have sponsored a cycling team in some local community club events, and really, to just be a safe environment for anybody to come in. Some of the charities we have supported are Movember, ovarian cancer, cerebral palsy.
TELL US ABOUT YOUR TEAM In the 16 years of trading, we have had over 50 staff work for us, 15 have gone on to open their own shops all over Australia and even in the UK. We started with 2 chairs and have progressed to now have 5. And at the peak we had 7 barbers working over the 5 chairs, Monday to Friday. Most people who have started with us, have come from a hairdressing background. With those it’s teaching the finer points of barbering, hot towels and straight razor shave’s, all aspects of fading, from a 1 fade to skin fades, and the reasons why in barbering we doit this way, as it’s what we do, and what we are known for, as you can get any specific barber on a day and know you’re going to walk out happy and satisfied. WHAT PRODUCTS DO YOU USE LOVE AND WHY…WHERE DO YOU DRAW YOUR CREATIVE INSPIRATION FROM? MUSIC /FASHION/ BARBER TRENDS FROM CERTAIN FASHION SUB-CULTURES…. We use uppercut deluxe and the bearded chap. These products are what I see as top of the range and are Australian owned and operated. And we love to support local and small business, plus they are great products, and have such a great variety, and one for every purpose. Creative inspirations come from classic looks, cars, clothes, American sports. WHAT IS YOUR UNIQUE SERVICE SPECIALTY? For the shop overall, definitely a classic side part, (executive contour) either from a skin fade, to a classic taper one. But most staff have their own specific style and can easily adapt. From flat Tops, Quiff’s(pompadours), Afro hair. We have a unique blend of everything. Not one specific cut defines us, but we are known for our hot towel straight razor shaves. As we were one of the few to do these back in the day. Refreshments wise, we started giving a beer away 15 years ago with a bar that was located beside us, over time we have adapted this and have now partnered with a few local breweries offering a beer or cider within the shop. WHAT’S NEXT FOR ROCKIT BARBER SHOP? Our focus is to rebuild the business and get ready for people to come back to the CBD, we have lost a couple of the staff during the pandemic, as well, they have decided to pursue a different career direction. For now, we are looking forward to getting back to the business of looking after our clients, delivering great haircuts, and overall experience. We have recently implemented a booking system which has been a significant change 15 years as a walk-in shop, to now running by appointments. That seems to have been taken well by all our clients so far. The booking system is seamless and very simple to use on both ends. So hopefully we continue for another 16 years and grow old with our clients. ROCKIT is located at McPherson Building 546 Collins Street, Melbourne CBD @rockitbarber
The Ugly Men’s Association Barber and Shave Shop
32 Barber Shop Year 10 Issue 4
After finishing a degree at the University of Auckland, Master Barber and Owner Lucas Snowden made the decision to try his hand at barbering.
Lucas Snowden
Initially training in New Zealand, Lucas then spent time working in both Melbourne and the Gold Coast before heading off to London where he worked for several years before landing in Perth. He opened Ugly Men’s Association in late 2017, with just one chair in a massive space…and so it began… I still remember the first few weeks of opening when I would fill the hot towel machine hoping to have clients come through the door, only to find myself with a full set of towels at the end of the day. These memories are a humbling reminder of how far our store has come over the past few years. Our name - Ugly Men’s Association - is actually a throwback, it’s an historical reference local to Perth. The original Ugly Men were an association established in the early 1900s as a social group which would raise money for new migrants and families struggling to make ends meet following the war. One of their main fundraising events was the Uglieland Carnival which was only a few hundred metres from our store. I feel the name compliments the historical State Buildings in which we live. It’s one of Perth’s most recognisable buildings which is now home to Perth’s best restaurants and one of the country’s best boutique hotels. In hindsight, I appreciate it was probably a bold move to approach the owners of one of Perth’s most historic buildings to pitch the idea of an untested barbershop in their basement. But I think they were attracted to the idea that our shop was never going to be just a barbershop. It was always my hope that the shop was not going to be just a place for cuts and shaves, but that it would become a place for Perth’s progressive set to meet, yarn and occasionally party. Just like the original Ugly Men’s Association of Perth, I guess. I’ll admit, it has been testing running a progressive, innercity barbershop in the world’s most isolated capital city, during a pandemic! But we made some great decisions before our state borders closed, to back a number of international barbers from the UK and Europe, and we paired them with budding young local talent. It was an enormous investment at the time but was probably one of the best decisions I ever made. The result has been a barbershop in Perth with a genuinely international flavour. And for a city like Perth, where locals have been living behind a hard border for almost two years now, the hunger for a connection to the outside world is stronger than ever. And at our shop we get to do that. One day it’s Japanese whiskey, the next it’s an Italian Aperol Spritz. And we employ this same thinking when it comes to choosing
everything from our hair products, our store decor, or even our daily playlist.
THE TEAM
Last year, our first apprentice Balin Burns won WA Apprentice Barber of the Year, we are very proud of him for that. We’re a team of 10 full timers, including three apprentices. Tyla joined the store shortly after it opened, and she’s our store manager. She has been a core part of our team for almost five years, which is a testament to both her skills and loyalty. As part of our training regime, we make a special effort to focus not just on cuts and shaves (which are incredibly important), but also on how our new starters manage the full client experience - from the moment the client enters the store to the moment they put their coat on to leave. At the end of the day, we work in the service industry, and we need to be proud of our store’s service offering.
SIGNATURE CUT
The flat top is one cut I love to flex when I get the opportunity. I know it’s one from the 80s, but I always felt like I needed to master it to ensure I retained the respect from the old school barbers while still pushing the boundaries with new and progressive styles.
WHAT’S NEXT?
I think barbershops - and the men’s hair industry generally - is already undergoing an exciting transition. Women’s hairdressers no longer have the monopoly over colours, perms and curls and more and more men are wanting a barbershop which lets them experiment. Our goal is to create a backdrop where clients feel comfortable to exercise that creativity over their look. The Ugly Men’s Association Barber and Shave Shop is located at Basement Level, The Heritage Listed 140-Year-Old State Buildings Cnr of Barrack Street and St Georges Tce Perth, WA 6000
33 Barber Shop Year 10 Issue 4
YOUNG TURKS – BARBERS OF DISTINCTION REBRANDS TO...
BY JAYMES Jaymes Lunn started barbering 3 years ago, back in 2018. Coming from the fashion industry he had always aspired to be a creative, from cutting his own hair in the bathroom to cutting friends and family he was just willing to give it his all and throw himself in the deep end. “Fortunately, enough I was mentored from several other creatives working in the industry, in particular, I’d like to mention Kristian Francuski. We would spend countless hours together studying the fundamentals theoretically and practically. “ Fast forward another 6 months and Jaymes found himself studying at the London School of Barbering doing his masters where he achieved his cert 3 in Barbering. “During my time in the UK, I rented a flat in central London with my partner. I would be at school from 9-5, 5 days a week for the duration of 8 weeks. My time at LSB was an experience that took my barbering to the next level and having several educators teach me, meant that I could soak up more information which I still use to this day. I always knew how crucial social media was going to be in order to really take control in the hair industry, so I started curating an Instagram feed that showed progress from the start of my journey up until current, along with some of my favourite brands that I liked to use along the way.” Fast track 2.5 years and he now has his own private Barber studio, is also a representative for Wahl Pro and The Barbiere Co. giving him to opportunity to share his barbering experiences with a broader community. You first worked at Young Turks…and then bought it! The Young Turks Barbers journey started 5 years ago where former business owners David Weir & Kristian Francuski ran the space. It was a contemporary styled studio with a love for plants and elegance, architecturally designed the studio was flawless. Fast forward 3 years and ownership changed into my hands. I decided to relocate premises and create something unique and urban whilst still cherishing the YT Brand. You can find us in a private studio that’s situated between a busy high street and a popular highway in Mosman Park. With an eye for style, I wanted to create a cage inspired interior along with a beautiful colour palette to match, paired with Luxury decor this studio is now the complete package. The culture of the shop still remains the same. A place where everyone/anyone is welcome, and quality is our primary focus. My 2-chair studio, ensures that the quality is superior and consistent. Myself and my fellow offsider Kristina are both trained in London. For this we pride our knowledge on being unique and resourceful 34 Barber Shop Year 10 Issue 4
You have achieved some great things both with the shop and industry related. With a 5 star google rating I pride myself on giving everyone a positive experience. I’m very grateful to run a busy studio that’s in high demand. Stemming back to the importance of social media, this wouldn’t have been possible without curating an eye capturing aesthetic that truly shows every inch of detail within our work. Being given the opportunity to represent WAHL PRO AUS as an ambassador for 2020/2021, as well as an EVO HAIR ambassador for The Barbiere Company 2020/2021 has been great and I am so grateful to work tightly with these brands. Giving back to your clients and the industry is something you are passionate about. As an advocate for mental health and the importance of expressing it, I partake in conversations that raise awareness for charity events that unfold throughout the year. Some of my involvements this year include representing Wahl on behalf of black dog institute to produce a promotional video for “mullets for mental health” and Real Barbers Real Talk conversation with The Barbiere Co. to raise awareness for mental health within our Australian hair industry. What Products and Tools do you love and why? I’ve tried several brands/companies as a professional and consumer. However, I stand for everything that Wahl Pro Aus is doing as a brand. I own several versions of each clipper, brushes, combs etc. I also love Mizutani Australia Scissors, the quality is class. As for styling products I really enjoy using Evo, they’re range is extensive, and I believe there’s truly a product for every occasion. Where do you take inspiration from? My creative inspiration is definitely a mixture of high-end fashion along with grunge minimalistic photography. I take inspiration from worldwide trends, in particular the fashion culture in South Africa. Do you have signature service? I like to cater for all hair types and styles. Anything from long to short and everything else in between. However, I believe that “You are what you post”, meaning I find that I’m known for fading. I really enjoy doing short clipper work with messy textured scissor work. What refreshments are on offer at your store for your guests? I’m grateful to be supplied beverages from @piratelifeperth. So, you can expect anything from a pale ale, mid strength or even a sour. I also offer whiskey, soda etc. Tell us about the rebrand YT is currently in the process of a rebrand which I’m excited to launch very soon. Throughout 5 years of business the brand has accomplished everything that I believe it’s capable of achieving and now it’s time to set sail into a new venture. What can you expect from the rebrand? Same space, same quality, same team. I’ve been working on this for some time now. My goal is to launch a brand that’s universal in so many aspects. From a Barber studio to an educational platform, you can expect this brand to be very personalised to my approach to hair and design. I also plan on releasing a limited clothing line, so stay tuned, I’m beyond excited to share this with you all. By Jaymes is situated at 618 Stirling Hwy, Mosman Park, WA 6012 @barberjaymes 35 Barber Shop Year 10 Issue 4
TATE & LYLE BY REX A.C. SILVER
Jacob Martin evolved from the London barbershops of Soho and Fitzrovia, where he mastered his craft under the guidance of some of the finest barbers in the Capital. Starting his journey as Saturday boy in London’s oldest known Barbering location just off the Pall Mall, he ‘grafted’ as an apprentice for 2 years earning “a poxy 2 quid sixty!” Instilling in him a passion, skillset and hunger to learn one of the world’s oldest crafts, gaining knowledge that could not be bought with money, Jacob was fortunate enough to have worked at various top shops throughout London meeting various barbers/hairdressers. “I was trained by arguably the most gifted barber I have ever met, Dominic Stables, who would have me perform air scissors for hours a day, to help me gain control over my scissor and comb technique. He has been a continuous mentor throughout my 10 years in this industry. I was given the privilege of learning a traditional art form which has now, in my eyes, been over complicated and blurred.” During my formative barbering years, Jacob won the opportunity of a year’s mentorship with the British Barbers Association. “This gave me the opportunity to meet such amazing and talented barbers/hairdressers; the likes of Chris Foster, Dale Ted Watkins, Erik Lander, Errol Douglas, Lloyd Hughes & Kevin Vorley who gave me invaluable training!” We find out more about this international talent now based in Sydney. Tell us a little more about your career so far…
Our brand name is derived from the secret language of London’s backstreet traders, created to prevent the prying police from nefarious collusion.
I trained traditionally as an apprentice before the hype and fast track barbering courses that I believe, are now all too common! My career has been truly blessed with many fortunate experiences, including featuring as a main contributor for ManSTYLE Lab and demonstrating traditional skills I have learnt in my career at Australian Hair Expo 2016/17/18/19. I have had some wonderful opportunities whilst in this profession, winning The British Barbers Associations, Menspire program in 2013 and receiving a year’s mentoring with some of the industry’s leading names. Performing at the largest trade show in Europe, on the Hairdressers Journal stand at 2013 Salon International, returning in 2014 performing my first ever live solo demo for the BBA were special highlights. I was part of Johnnie Sapong’s styling team at London Collections Men working for fashion labels Oliver Sweeney, Maharishi and Hackett, product launches, most notably that of Moroccan Oil with Errol Douglas MBE and Dove’s shaving range. I’ve also had TV and radio appearances such as BBC 5lives Men’s hour and Man Up a makeover show for Fox TV and have appeared in magazines, newspapers and online blogs such as Hairdressers Journal Men. Down under… Where do I start! I came to this country under the impression that I would only be here for 6 months then return home but 7 years and 1 shop later I now call Sydney, Australia my home and recently acquired my Australian Citizenship
When I first moved to Australia in 2014, high-end barbershops were few and far between. I had no desire to work at a shop where I couldn’t continue my growth and education. Learning and education consumed me. Just as it did in London, I wanted to learn from the best barbers in Sydney. So, I got on Google and searched Best Barbers in Sydney. Very few shops appealed to me, but one stood out. ‘The Barbershop’ with fully operational Barbershop & Speak-Easy bar in the back, this would be my home for 4 years. I started as a backpack barber on a 6-month visa, and left having managed 2 stores and 12 staff. Learning the business side of the trade allowed me to acquire the knowledge and key business fundamentals that I would need to ensure that when I did eventually open my own shop, I would have the skill set to succeed. Setting up shop was an arduous and stressful process. I had to wait until I had been granted my permanent residency, a process that took in total 3 years before I could start the journey in opening my own shop. The pursuit of securing a suitable site would take me over 14 months from start to finish constantly refreshing Commercial Realestate.com. Sydney has some of the most expensive real estate in the world! Then dealing with not having the physical support of my family, who are still in the UK, the tragic bushfires which saw massive delays in materials, dealing with one of the largest landlords in Australia and the huge difference in regulations compared to the UK ensured I learnt lots on the job. I eventually opened my doors in February 2020. After only one month of trading, we faced the global pandemic COVID-19. This tested my abilities and resilience. Thankfully we survived and have recently come out after another lockdown. To say that the first 2 years of opening a small business is the hardest is an understatement, but luckily we have flourished recently topping GQ’s top barbershops list in Sydney, which is a testament to my team and loyal customers. It’s been a difficult yet rewarding journey, I have grown as a barber and have learnt invaluable lessons, most importantly learning how to treat my barbers and not implementing the same mistakes I’ve seen previous business owners make. If anyone reading this wants to ask me in more detail about my experiences from emigrating to opening shop in another country, please do not hesitate in contacting me. Share with us the story behind the shop name, design and culture and inspiration for what you offer. London’s West End is historically known for its mavericks and conservatives, so whether it’s off the wall creativity or a sleek classic haircut that you desire, we excel at both. Our brand name is derived from the secret language of London’s backstreet traders, created to prevent the prying police from nefarious collusion. Tate & Lyle is cockney rhyming slang for “style”, a word that epitomizes our Company’s ethos and brand vision. Tate & Lyle is also well known for golden syrup in the UK, syrup & figs is cockney for wigs another nod to our profession as barbers and wig makers. Style is enduring and timeless, but it is also a unique form of personal expression: Tate & Lyle see it as our honour to deliver the results you seek. Tate & Lyle’s service ethos emanates from the rich history of the West End’s highclass barbershop’s, the essence being an exemplary service delivered in a luxuriant shop. Tate & Lyle has evolved from the London barbershops in which its founder cut his teeth and its vision is to deliver cutting edge results with a touch of class. Bespoke individualism is part of our rich heritage. Tate & Lyle aims to provide a comfortable sanctuary for the esteemed gentleman of Sydney, an escape in today’s busy world; we’ve merged contemporary cutting in a classic and timeless setting we wanted to ensure the shop suited the location and prospective clientele of Macquarie street dark woods, Chesterfields, British racing green tiles so iconic on London’s pie and mash shops, black and white pictures of London adorn the shops walls and the scent of Leather and tobacco waft through the air. I wanted to ensure this shop was not a gimmick, just a good old-fashioned barbershop. cont’d on page 22 37 Barber Shop Year 10 Issue 4
cont’d from page 37 With over 10 years of experience in the UK, the Nordic regions and now Sydney, Tate & Lyle’s approach is unmatched, and its execution unrivalled. Our inspiration comes from lots of sources Pinterest, Instagram, Catwalk, print & fellow barbers who keep pushing the boundaries we love being inspired by seeing what our counterparts are doing globally. Barbering has really come on leaps and bounds from when I did my apprenticeship of course there is the over use of photoshop which has set unachievable expectations but there are some truly unreal barbers who deliver the goods such as Tay Basham, Harris Heaton, Nick Barford, Fab Sfameni , Reece & Alan Beak, Frank Glorified, Andrew Does Hair, Tariq Howes, Vassilis Serafetindis, Kevin Luchmun, Olga Gorbatenko. A little on the success you have enjoyed. Our major accolades are our current 150+ 5-star reviews on Google. In this day and age it’s so difficult to ensure every client leaves happy. The recent GQ feature was a huge achievement for us considering being so new to the industry and with so much competition as well as appearing on other best barbers list like Man of Many, DMARGE and BOSS HUNTING. We are humbled by our inclusions in these lists. And your team? We currently have 5 team members cutting, including myself, as well as one support staff member who helps with the admin of running a barbershop. We have acquired an eclectic team who have a wealth of experience in male grooming over 30 years of grooming experience. Ensuring our clients have a barber who can meet any requests from skin fades to beards, long hair and of course shaving all our staff specialise in different styles meaning we can handle any request. Our website also has a short bio on all our staff to ensure that customers can get to know their barber before they come in. Finding a new barber can be daunting experience especially when all you see is a name on a booking system, we give the clients an opportunity to pick a barber who has similar interests or can relate to their answers. What products do you use love and recommend to your guests? All our products have been carefully curated to ensure we use only the best, using our wealth of experience in the industry using products that complement our services. We currently use Sacha Juan for most of our styling range such as curl cream, ocean mist and ocean cream, shampoo & conditioner. We have an extensive range of Floris aftershaves and facial products we love their rich heritage. Our top selling product is our friends at Brother Wolf’s matte paste, crafted by barbers for barbers! What is your signature service? Our signature service is our luxury shave that promises to indulge you with only the finest men’s’ grooming products from London perfumer ‘Floris’. A process honed and perfected in London by founder of Tate & Lyle®. This luxury shave includes a facial mapping, gentle facial exfoliation, two hot towels, two passes with the open blade. The service is finished with moisturiser, facial massage, cold towel and a splash of handpicked cologne from Royal Perfumer and owner of 2 Royal warrants first granted in 1820. We stock an extensive range of Floris which we feel compliments our brand ethos a brand that has a long association with the British Royal family and celebs such as Marilyn Monroe, Sir Winston Churchill & David Bowie. We offer a wide range of refreshments, all complimentary, from bottled sparkling and still water, to limonata and blood orange soft drinks and full fat coke to nurse those hangovers, Peroni beers (we used to have Red Stripe till covid impacted imports) Gin, Tequila, a huge selection of whisky and bourbons and coffee and various teas of course English breakfast tea! We also have nibbles for any clients who are a little peckish. All our services are finished with either a hot or cold flannel to refresh! What’s next for Tate & Lyle? We want to continue to cement our place as one of Sydney leading barbershops! We’ve got a few projects in the pipeline developing my own product range J A C O B, adding new services to our menu to further enhance our customers experience at Tate & Lyle and finally looking into providing education in Sydney drawing on my extensive contacts in the UK by bringing over some big names as well as our friends in Melbourne to help build a more inclusive barbering community here in Sydney! Tate and Lyle are situated at Shop 1, 167 Macquarie Street Sydney 2000 @tateandlylesyd
Re-fresh + RESET Mocha Group (formerly Mocha Publishing) represents our industry reimagined for today. As the most diverse platform to celebrate, support and inspire today’s creatives, we provide the definitive media, digital and awards network for the Australian hair, beauty and barber industry. Sharing knowledge and championing the best of the best, we continue to raise the benchmark of excellence.
Led by industry pioneer Linda Woodhead, Mocha Group was originally created in 2006 as a publishing house to truly reflect the challenges and achievements of individuals, businesses and brands within the industry. Over the years we have evolved into the multi-layered support system that the industry now trusts to represent it across Australia and the world. Supported by a dedicated team with a varied background across trade and consumer publishing, marketing, PR and event management, our commitment is one of passion and integrity across all of our company divisions. Mocha Group is for the industry, by the industry. With a strong and well-respected history, the company has developed into a leading stakeholder in the industries it provides service to, yet still maintains its well-known personal approach and integrity.
2022 Dates for mochahair AWARDS 2022 AHIA Creative Open For Entry 8/11/21 Round 1 Photographic Entry Deadline 14/3/22 Finalists Announced 11/4/22 Round 2 Written Submission Entry Deadline 9/5/22
Through its various divisions, mochagroup offers news, education and inspiration via the printed and digital publications Hairbiz, Beauty Biz and Barbershop. It provides innovative and meaningful online interaction and dialogue through the recently launched refreshed website, EDM, social media and blogs. mochagroup celebrates the industry through the most comprehensive awards programs comprising of Australian Hair Industry Awards Business, Australian Hair Industry Awards Creative, Australian Beauty Industry Awards and the Australian Modern Barber Awards mochagroup uncovers and supports our Next Generation by discovering and supporting young industry talent with Hot Shots and Beauty Squad and through the charity division the mocha angels, make a difference to those touched by cancer alongside the life changing Love Your Sister charity having raised $130,000 to date. Working with experts in the field of branding, communication and digital strategies, mochagroup have aligned with Lily Blue Communications and SME Growth Services to cement their position as an industry leader with foresight and professionalism across all aspects of their business culture.
Gala Night 13/6/22
2022 Hot Shots
Open For Entry 8/11/21 Entry Deadline 14/3/22 Finalists Announced 11/4/22 Gala Night 13/6/22
2022 AHIA Business Open For Entry 1/3/22
Product Entry Deadline 23/5/22 General Entry Deadline 11/7/22 Finalists Announced 22/8/22 Gala Night 2/10/22
mochagroup would not be where they are today without the support, over the past 15 years, of the entire hair, beauty and barber industries. “We are so proud of what we have achieved so far, and excited to continue our journey with all of our trusted and valued colleagues, friends and supporters. We strive to champion all those we work with and will continue to do so in the future, doing everything we can for the betterment of the industry we love and respect.” Linda Woodhead, CEO and Founder.
2022 AMBA
Open For Entry 4/4/22 Product Entry Deadline 6/6/22 General Entry Deadline 1/8/22 Finalists Announced 12/9/22 Awards Night 6/11/22
mail@mochagroup.com.au
www.mochagroup.com.au
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mochamagic
mocha group is made up of a professional team, who have unparalleled combined experience in trade and consumer publishing, events, awards, marketing and PR for the hair, beauty, barber and fashion industry. Bringing the B2B magazine Hair Biz to you every second month, not to mention the Australian Hair Industry Awards (Business and Creative), the Hot Shots competition and the mocha angels charity division, we thought we would introduce you to the team behind these much-loved initiatives. Celebrating a whole new look, new website, more online and social presence and a total re-brand after being in business for 15 years, 2021 seemed the opportune time to share the love and introduce you to the people behind the name! So…Meet the mocha group Team!
LINDA WOODHEAD. OWNER & FOUNDER FAST FAV’s
Favourite Destination: Italy and Thailand Favourite Drink: Red Wine and Margarita Favourite Book: The Wisdom of Florence Scovel Shinn and the Four Agreements Favourite Movie: Meet Joe Black and Love Actually Favourite Music: Everything. I live for music! Loving youtube lives at the moment, especially cool jazz and acoustic tunes. Favourite Animal: Lion and my crazy wolf dog Kai Favourite Saying You Live By: Choose Happiness and Kindness and surround yourself only with positive influences “I emigrated to Australia in 1986 and launched my own publishing company with the first publication being RAVE magazine – A free street press weekly music and entertainment newspaper. We were instrumental in sponsoring and assisting the launch of Big Day Out here in Australia!
I went on to own a number of consumer titles including Insight (Spiritual New Age), Work From Home, (Business) and Which Franchising and after selling the business, acted as an independent full time consultant to AHJ Publications in the role of General Manager overseeing the bimonthly journal for the hair industry - the AHJ - for 5 years. I also event managed the Australian Hair Fashion Awards and set up the FAME TEAM here In Australia in association with the British Fellowship. I am a proud single mother to 31-Year-old daughter Kellie (partner in crime at mocha group), and 28-year-old twin boys Jake and Sam, and Nanny Loulou to my 1-year old grandson Sage. I launched mocha group in 2006 – A hair and beauty company offering print and online magazines, events and awards to the hair, beauty and barber industries and am very proud of bringing the hair, beauty and barber industries together collectively for an annual fund-raising campaign in alliance with Samuel Johnson supporting Love Your Sister raising over $150,000 so far. I’ve been known as a business and motivational speaker, am a Reiki Master, Qualified Masseuse and Fire Walker! I live on a beautiful acreage property in the Gold Coast Hinterland with my crazy large dog Kai and the adopted cat Mittens!”
KELLIE WOODHEAD. ARTISTIC DIRECTOR
FAST FAV’s
Favourite Destination: Rapallo, Italy. It is a spot on the Italian coast with crystal clear oceans on beautiful cliffs, a place I will never forget! Favourite Drink: Sloegroni… or a Tommy’s Margarita… or Wine… Depends on the mood! Favourite Book: I love a good fantasy novel! Favourite Movie: Bohemian Rhapsody. Such a heart-warming movie. Favourite Music: FKJ. Multi-Instrumentalist/ Singer. Loops like a God. LOVE! Favourite Animal: Dolphin. Favourite Saying You Live By: Always find the positive. “My name is Kellie (miss mocha), and I have been working with the boss lady since 2008 (wow…!) Starting off as the girl that got all the 42
Hair Biz Year 15 Issue 6
tasks that nobody wanted, to self-teaching my way into the world of design and events! I now design the magazines and help run all events alongside my biggest supporter, Linda (Mum!), as well as the rest of the mocha team, my family. On the side, with my partner, Cuba, I also help with the running of our gin bar and restaurant (Covent Garden, Brisbane), as well as an online Gin gift shop! To say I am busy, is an understatement (but I never run out of Gin!) Keeping me grounded, is my very crazy, energetic 1-year old son, Sage. He is my biggest achievement to date, and the reason I keep striving to be the best I can be in business, and in life. My happy place is by the ocean, with the people I love, forever reminding ourselves to stay grounded and positive in this crazy world we live in.”
NINA BARBARA. GROUP SALES MANAGER FAST FAV’s
Favourite Destination: Beach with my dog Favourite Drink: Cooper & Smith Merlot Favourite Book: Flowers in the Attic Favourite Movie: Too many to name Favourite Music: Blues, Jazz and Soul Favourite Animal: My Dog Marley who recently passed and now the new puppy Vinnie. Favourite Saying You Live By: Be grateful “I was born in Australia and come from a very musical and adventurous family - pioneers in fact, however I started my hairdressing career in the UK at the age of 15years and 10 months. Finishing my training in Australia at Bryan Krebs Toowong & Kangaroo Point College, Brisbane, I went back to Britain to further my career. On returning to Australia I became the owner of Ravels Hair Design, one of the first salons to open the very first HAIR EXPO at the Sheraton Hotel back in the 80s with a
live showcase, in Brisbane before it moved to Sydney. In the mid 90’s I moved across to the publishing side of the Hair industry and worked at The Australian Hairdressers Journal for 10 years. Wanting more knowledge in the small business and business coaching industry I started working alongside Brad Sugars/Action Coaching who went on to launch Kenzi Publishing, publishing franchise, small business & work from home magazines. In the early 2000’s I had also started publishing my own magazine titled ‘Passport to your Local Suburbs.’ A community driven magazine, working in all areas of the community supporting youth, aged care and small businesses; a project I am extremely proud of to this day. Then in 2005 back to my true ‘amore’, the Hair industry and a new adventure with my wonderful friend of 30 years Linda Woodhead. I have been at Mocha now for 15 years enjoying every moment in the role of Group Sales Manager. Oh, and along the way I have managed to have two of the greatest kids on the planet from my first ‘mistake’ sorry ‘marriage’ and have 4 stepchildren with my amazing bestie who I also married… oops don’t forget the 8 grandkids!”
LOUISE MAY. EDITOR – HAIR BIZ MAGAZINE FAST FAV’s
Favourite Destination: Aust - Port Douglas or Abroad - New York Favourite Drink: Latte or Veuve Favourite Book: The Alchemist by Paulo Coelho Favourite Movie: Shawshank redemption or Love Actually Favourite Music: System of A Down or Metallica Favourite Animal: Horse and Dog Favourite Saying I Live by: Integrity Is Doing The Right Thing Even When No One Is Watching. “I grew up in a Griffith which is in the Riverina area of regional NSW. I did my hairdressing apprenticeship in Griffith and made the move to Sydney in my 4th year. I managed several salons for a well-known NSW salon chain and bought my 1st salon in 1996 in Sydney. After having my 1st child, I sold my salon and worked for Matrix Australia (pre L’Oreal taking over) in sales and education. I then purchased my 2nd salon in Sydney
CLARE LAMBERTH EDITOR – BEAUTY BIZ MAGAZINE FAST FAV’s
Favourite Destination: Anywhere surrounded by trees, in the middle of nowhere camping under the stars. Favourite Drink: Margaritas Favourite Book: Simon Sinek - Leader eat Last Favourite Movie: Sex and the City 1 & 2 Favourite Music: 2000’s RnB Favourite Animal: Pomeranians Favourite Saying You Live By: There’s no such thing as a problem, just a solution that hasn’t been found yet. “I am a Dermal Therapist and owner of the multi-award winning, Beauty on Latrobe in Brisbane, originally trained at the Queensland School of Beauty Therapy when it was still an Ella Baché training academy. I
and went on to have 2 more children, and in 2012 we decided to sell everything and make the move up north to Port Macquarie for a sea change. When we made the move, I was offered a position with a Haircare & Skincare private branding company and began building relationships with salon owners all over NSW and QLD and worked with them on building their Brand Profiles and growing their brands. This led me to working closely with salon owners on their businesses, turnover, their KPI’s, their teams and their mindset. This is where I really fell in love with helping salon owners, and where I transitioned into the mentoring space for salons. I have now been mentoring with salon owners for the past 6 years, and during that time purchased another salon which is in Port Melbourne (12 hours away from home) In October 2020, I took over the position of Editor with Hair Biz Magazine and I am absolutely loving it! My hubby James and I reside in a small coastal town 10 minutes south of Port Macquarie, we have 3 beautiful kids, Luke 22, Ryan 14 and Abby 12. We have Coco the Groodle, Cupcake the Cat, and Romulus the Horse.”
have worked in lots of different clinic environments, including head therapist working for Clarins in David Jones, before partnering with my parents to purchase Beauty on Latrobe at just 23 years old. I have dedicated the last 20 years of my life to the beauty industry which I love so much, studying every course I can find to become a leader in my field. I am also passionate about business development, marketing and social media, helping many clincis all over Australia grow their businesses online with style through my boutique Social Media agency, Social Style. I am a Mum of Grace (8) and Eddie (7) who keep this already busy mum extra busy. My kids are my world and despite my 3 jobs the kids always come first, being there for every drop off and pick up each day. I do really love disconnecting and getting away from it all hiking, bush walking or getting away to the beach with my husband and kids on the weekends.” Hair Biz Year 15 Issue 6
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REX SILVER EDITOR – BARBERSHOP MAGAZINE
FAST FAV’s
Favourite Destination: Thailand to relax and regroup… New York to get busy. Favourite Drink: Hello!! Have you seen my belly! Beer! Favourite Music: Triple-j I need new music in my life! Favourite Book: Currently Mastering Body Language and Lee Child’s Jack Reacher series. Favorited Movie: Original Blues Brothers and now after lockdown with 2 boys…The Star Wars movies. Favourite Animal: Our cat ‘Killer’, she was a feral kitten I recued off a farm Favourite Saying You Live By: My uncle said this to me when I was 18, “You only have around 80 Summers left…enjoy every one them”. “I live on Queensland’s Sunshine Coast with my beautiful partner of 20 years Dana, our healthy and happy 2 boys Louis 7, Jacques 5 and our ginger cat Killer. I have had an amazing life in hair and have won numerous awards for my efforts and worked with some incredible people along the way. Early years are the foundation and I was fortunate enough to work for Edward Beale and Paul Whitehead; 2 icons that had a profound impact on my career moving forward. My other passion of course is writing, and
I was lucky enough to dip my toes in publishing over the years with a 4-year stint from 96’ to 2000 including 3 years with Rolling Stone and Australian Guitar magazine. In typical hairdresser fashion, I still did Sundays at a mate’s solon in Darlinghurst to keep my chops up on the hair tools, you never fully walk away! I have a diploma in creative writing from the highly coveted A.W.A.R.D School in Sydney and now I get to combine both my passions in being the editor BarberShop. Life is pretty sweet! My career spans over 3 decades in Men’s and Women’s hairdressing, but around 6 years ago I hung up my Hot Rollers and began Barbering full time after some years of working between our Women’s salon and our 2 Barber Shops. Got to tell you, I haven’t looked back. We recently sold our salon and barber shops, moved to the Sunshine Coast and have embarked on a new chapter in hair. That being the launch of our Men’s and Pro Barber product range, GARAGE BARBER. We have almost completed the fit out for our new studios where we will do barbering video content for our website and social marketing, education and heaps more it’s very exciting. Men’s hair fashion and the behemoth that is the ‘Modern Global Barbering Industry’ is so exciting to be involved in right now and I have fallen in love all over again with my craft with the same passion I had when I first started in 1984.“
SPECIAL MENTIONS
We also wanted to mention a few adopted members of the Mocha Family who we work with on a regular basis and could not do what we do without them…
JO COLES
Jo owns Lily Blue Communications, a boutique marketing communications agency, dedicated to the strategic development of small businesses within the hair-fashion and cosmetic arena. Jo is our beautiful branding and communication expert. We partner with Lily Blue for all of the mocha group divisions and especially with all of our awards. Jo keeps us all on track when it comes to the direction and ongoing communication for all of our brands, working closely with our award winners and online partners. She is an absolute gem, a strategic thinker, brand enthusiast and fits in well with the team being a gin lover!
WILLIAM FENNELL
Will is our very own celebrity MC for our Hair and Beauty Business awards and has been for many years. He is a well-known Grooming Guy, Media Presenter, Writer/Author and Wellness Warrior. Will has made the passion he has for skin care, health and wellness into a lifestyle program he loves to share. He is also a writer, author, beauty salon owner, skincare distributor and a very, very special member of the mocha family.
44 Barber Shop Year 10 Issue 4
Tan
is the now.
HARLEM Tan
The Harlem Barber Chair gives you that sense of feeling like a king and gives your client the comfortable throne they deserve.
Features • Reclining Backrest • Adjustable Footrest • Upholstery available in Tan or Black upholstery • Black/Chrome Base • Disc Hydraulic Measurements Min Length : 120cm Max Length : 145cm Width : 67cm (Arm to Arm) Seat Area : 50 X 50 cm Min Height : 110cm Max Height : 128cm Tan Code: 43344T Black Code: 43344B *Despite every effort to provide accurate images of each product's colour finish, actual colours may vary slightly, due to different device screen settings, the lighting in the installation location, slight differences in product finishes over time and other factors. Joiken will not accept responsibility for any colour or design differences that are not factory faults. In purchasing from Joiken, you agree to accept the risk that there will be a slight variation between the actual colour and design, and the representation on our website.
A: 89 Per cival Rd, Smithfield NSW 2164 |
P: 02 87810123 |
W: www.joiken.com.au
BAR X BAR
Anton Ferry
My name is Anton Ferry, I am a 25-year-old living in Manly in the Northern Beaches of Sydney. I’ve lived in Manly my whole life, hence the reason I wanted to start my barber shop in the heart of Manly. I have been cutting hair as a hobby since I was 14 years old, however I started professionally barbering at age 21 after I completed my final University assessment and graduated with a Bachelor’s degree in Visual Communications Design. My assessment was to design the graphics and create a business plan for a start-up company. I chose the BAR x BAR concept which is a Barbershop and bar. The name itself is a little play on works as the shop is a Barbershop and bar, which serves you alcohol when you get your haircut. I fell in-love with the idea of my Uni assessment so much so that I quit graphic design and started barbering to work towards one day opening my BAR X BAR store. In between the time of going to university and working as an employee in a barbershop, I took some time off to travel the world. This is my greatest hobby. I’m in love with exploring new countries, new cultures and meeting new people. So, coming home from these experiences and journeys taught me that you really do become and start living like the person you’ve always meant to be. Without getting too deep, this is where I gained most of my inspirations for what I’d imagined my barbershop to be like. Every country I’d go to I’d always try and find the coolest barbershop in town and get my haircut there, see how they do things and what makes them different to the barbershops in Australia. What makes my barbershop stand out and be unique to others, was inspired by two of my favourite experiences in Paris, France and Hungary, Budapest. The barbershops I visited had a very warm welcome, genuine greetings and a convenient waiting system for clients. BAR x BAR has a simplistic. modern style and feel to it. Natural wood tones and lots of plants make it feel warm and welcoming. Just like how we treat our clients. The team down at BAR x BAR are all super kind and love some banter. We have a large community here which creates an amazing atmosphere. We have music and sport playing on the TV. We also hand out beers and water for our customers while they wait. A concept we have implemented is our chalk board system. Clients can write their name and number on the board and go off and do their thing. We will then text or call to let them know we are ready for them. It means clients don’t have to wait in line if we are really busy. The BAR X BAR has now been open for just over 1 year, we have 6 staff members who all share the same passion for cutting hair as I do. Things couldn’t be going better, and we are so excited to see how we grow as a shop and in the community in the future. What role do your suppliers play in your vision and how do you choose who to partner with? The role my suppliers play in my business is huge. Not only does the product we use need to be top shelf quality with ingredients and performance, the packaging, style and aesthetic needs to blend in with our style as well. I chose to partner with muk Haircare’s MR MUK range because the packaging is minimal, clean and masculine. It ties in well with the modern look of my barbershop. In addition there is wide range of products to suit any hair type and style and the quality is amazing. Can you tell us what your favourite product in the Mr Muk range is and why? In the MR MUK range, the Strong Hold Gritty Finish Paste is my favourite. It’s our best seller because it can be used on any hair length from long to short. It is easy to apply and gives an amazing matte finish and natural look for our clients. Come down and show your face next time you visit Manly; we would love to meet you all!
Everyone’s going NUTS! Since 2007, Scotty’s Barberino’s in gorgeous Samford Village, has offered a unique vintage charm old school barbershop; non pretentious with value for money and prides itself on giving great haircuts. Scott Selwood, owner of Scotty Barberino’s, recently voted as one of Brisbane’s top ten barbers, says the barber business has changed dramatically since he first started out in 1991. “Guys are taking personal grooming much more seriously now. They’ve have got ideas on different styles and have high expectations of their grooming experience. They are more interested in new products that are a bit different from generic supermarket or pharmacy brands.” One of the brands that Scott stocks in the shop is ‘nutcare’ … we spoke to him about this innovative product.
WHAT’S YOUR HISTORY WITH NUTCARE?
nutcare approached me just over 18 months ago to see if I’d be interested in trialling their product range. It wasn’t something I’d really considered, but after speaking with them, they told me about the growth in the male grooming industry in general and so knowing my customers like to try new products and their packaging looked premium, I trialled a few products. At first, I used the nutdust powders to dust off customer’s necks after a cut or shave. There was a lot of interest in the products as they smelled great and had cool packaging. The fact that it is all natural and not talc is really obvious when you use it. It’s nice way to finish off the cut and is clearly a quality product. I’ve taken on more of the range, adding in smooth nuts and barenuts, often selling out and I’ve had to restock many times.
WHO BUYS THE NUTCARE PRODUCTS FROM YOUR BARBER SHOP?
It ranges mainly from guys in their late 20’s to their 60’s, usually buying some after I used the powders on their neck. They really liked the smell and story of nutdust, and some wanted to try the other products. Customers constantly say, “is that new?”, “What is that?” Locals come in and buy up bottles too, as they make good gifts. A lot of women actually come in to buy it for their husbands. They love it. I always sell out at Father’s Day and in the build up to Christmas. I reckon every guy in Samford must have a bottle at home!
WHAT’S BEEN YOUR OWN EXPERIENCE USING NUTCARE PRODUCTS IN YOUR BARBER SHOP?
I like the nutdust. Rather than using the normal old talcs, it’s something a bit different, but you can tell its premium product. It’s really all about the smell for me. The packaging’s great, top shelf. You’re not going to get it in the supermarket or chemist. Customers tell me it feels great on the back of their neck after a light dust. barenuts flies off the shelf nowadays. It’s interesting, I wouldn’t have thought to stock it, but barenuts is quite popular and in demand. It’s like guys are more comfortable buying their grooming products from their barber, over some random at the supermarket checkout. There’s a bit of trust there.
ANYTHING ELSE TO ADD SCOTTY?
Bit of a funny one. A guy came in to buy smooth nuts. Hope he doesn’t mind me mentioning it now. I didn’t realise at the time, I knew smooth nuts was a good moisturiser, but hadn’t realised it was anti-wrinkle. Anyways he came in to buy it as a gift for his brother, who only has one nut left, thinking it would help him make the most of it. Apparently, it went down a treat! smoothnuts often gets a laugh at first, but when guys realise it’s actually really good quality and can be used anywhere, they give it a try and often end up buying it. I’ve had to restock it several times. SCOTTY’S BARBERINO’S IS LOCATED AT 6/37 MAIN STREET SAMFORD VILLAGE, BRISBANE, QLD To find out more. read all about how nutcare got started on nutcare’s website and for a range of different products, designed specifically for men’s unique skincare needs. You can enjoy some of the cracking five star product reviews while you are there.
Contact your local barber distributor or reach out to nutcare directly for your retail enquiries. ww.nutcare.com.au 48 Barber Shop Year 10 Issue 4
nutcare nutcare DARE TO GO BARE
E X PA N D Y O U R P R O D U C T R A N G E ! C O N TA C T u s N O W a b o u t t h e r e t a i l e r s t a r t e r p a c k ! i n f o @ n u t c a r e . c o m . a u
LETTER TO MY YOUNGER SELF with ADAM VASSALLO Dear Adam, If you only knew now what I know in the future...! Mate, you’re going to leave school and become a mechanic thinking this is the cool thing to do. It’s OK for a little while don’t worry. You will then realise after a year; you have no passion for this, except maybe driving cars, but definitely not fixing them. You do have an interest in fashion and hair though, and one of your mates will say, ‘how about trying out with us in our salon, what have you got to lose?’ Bang! you will be hooked and not only that, you will also find you have a natural talent and even start competing within your first year. (You find your true love around this time, be prepared for that young friend and for your world to change forever in the best way you can ever imagine.) Loyalty is in your blood, and you will stay with that original salon for 5 years and then take the major step of going out on your own. You open your first salon in Sydney and run that for 3 years, eventually selling to explore other directions. You will continue to be self-employed, and you will decide to buy a truck and see what truckin’ life is all about, travelling Australia you will discover many things about this amazing country, and about yourself. You will, after 10 years truckin’, realise you miss the interaction and creativity of your first calling. You sell the Trucks. You would have fallen in love with Queensland by this time, very much so in fact, as you decide to relocate with your lady love to the Sunshine Coast and open a Barber Shop. A big move away from women’s hairdressing, but one that will will tick all your boxes, being socially interactive and creatively satisfying. Barbering will be at next level at this stage and will keep you on your toes on multiple levels and very happy with the choice you made. You will pass on your knowledge and train many young minds and help set them on their own journey well equipped with Barbering skills and life skills. Passing this knowledge will be very rewarding for you…enjoy that! Life on the Sunshine Coast will continue to deliver you challenges and joys and you even dream up an idea with your beautiful partner and design and open an ultra-trendy high- end women’s salon/blow bar/cocktail bar which will instantly take off and be recognised for its uniqueness. This will garnish you both much praise and recognition for your efforts…. you even do some time on the floor doing women’s hair again, but you take way too long and quickly decide to leave it to the pro’s… Stick with Barbering mate! Life will throw you many challenges, but Adam, you will always get through and excel, enjoy the ride my young friend. Adam Vassallo
@themadbarbers
52 Barber Shop Year 10 Issue 4
BLOG SPOT. THE SALON POWERED BY 100% GREEN HYDROGEN with Paul Frasca Mama Earth had a big win recently. Fortescue Future Industries, led by Australian billionaire Dr Andrew Forrest, announced it will build the world’s largest green energy hydrogen manufacturing facility in Queensland. This plant alone is set to double the globe’s capacity to produce green energy hydrogen power by manufacturing and exporting infrastructure and equipment such as wind turbines. It’s an incredible step forward in the renewable energy space, and even more special that it’s happening on Aussie soil. But - I know what you’re thinking - it doesn’t seem all that connected to the hairdressing industry, so why am I rabbiting on about it? Well, the news triggered a lightbulb moment for me: how cool is the unexpected success model? It just so happens that the Aussie hairdressing industry is also pioneering green energy hydrogen. You may have heard whispers earlier this year about our partnership with the NSW Department of Primary Industries; together with the Australian Hairdressing Council, Sustainable Salons collaborated to bring to life H2Cuts, a mobile haircutting salon powered by 100% renewable Hydrogen. Here’s where the unexpected success model comes in. H2Cuts was created so that the NSW DPI could tour regional communities and talk to them about exploring opportunities to lift agriculture’s energy productivity and reduce its carbon footprint. Yep, you read right… agriculture. Through my weird and wonderful web of networks, I heard these guys were going to activate this unit as a mobile sheep-shearing shed to showcase the power (pun intended) of green energy hydrogen. That definitely seems like the obvious choice, but would it have been the most engaging? Jury’s still out on that. Instead, I saw an opportunity for our industry to be part of a future initiative, so I suggested we offer haircuts to the communities of regional NSW powered by green energy hydrogen - and hairdressers, of course. The wheels started turning for the DPI folk as I explained that hairdressers have leverage - when a client is in the chair, they’re a captive audience; there’s no better place to get someone’s undivided attention. And so we set about building H2Cuts ready for it to hit the road on a tour of regional NSW in 2021 (sadly, derailed by Covid halfway through… but it will be back in 2022!). Sustainable Salons took care of the exterior wrap of the unit because we love sustainable story-telling that grabs attention, while the interior design was yet another perfect example of an unexpected success model. The awesome industrial-meets-outbackmeets-hipster vibe was brought to life by Xanda Luca Interiors, which is the side hustle of the very talented Kathleen
H2Cuts Trailer Lindsey, owner of Plush Hair, a renowned salon in Wagga Wagga. So - here we are. The hairdressing industry leading the charge with a renewable energy initiative in partnership with a state government, in a mobile unit designed by a recycling social enterprise and longtime hairdresser-turned-interior-designer, intended to convince farmers - by giving them a haircut - that this is the future of how they’ll shear their sheep and power their machinery. Now, tell me you could have seen THAT coming! Andrew Forrest made his fortune in iron ore. Yet, two years ago, he earned a Ph.D. in marine ecology and announced a crusade to do something about climate change after our devastating bushfires in 2019/20. His pledge to jump headfirst into the green energy space has been met with scepticism, but he’s also perfectly placed to succeed, with money (billions!), guts (experience and power) and know-how (his business is grounded in construction and engineering) at his disposal. It might feel like an unlikely match, but all the boxes are ticked. That’s what it looked like for our green energy hydrogen opportunity and H2Cuts! And when you look around, you might start to see glimpses of your own unexpected success models, too. We recently released our members’ individual Certificate of Positive Impact that shows what their business has achieved for sustainability since being part of our program. In the beginning, some of them could have thought that sustainability and salons was a strange or unnecessary pairing, but their returning conscious clients and our collective impact is proving that it’s actually perfectly placed for both business success and the future of our planet kind of success. After everything we’ve been through during the pandemic, the green hydrogen story reminded me that sustainability is also about acknowledging that we have an unexpected power to shake up the norm. It doesn’t have to be Andrew Forrest big to have impact, either… we just have to be open to giving the ‘art of the possible’ a chance. Keen to join the movement? Find out more at www.sustainablesalons.org!
53 Barber Shop Year 10 Issue 4
BLOG SPOT. WHO DO YOU THINK YOU ARE?
with Collette Saunders I think we all agree that one of the most satisfying things that we can feel is to know that we have helped or made life better or easier or lift a burden for someone else. In fact, I think we would agree that doing for others, as we do in our working lives behind the chair, outdoes what we do for ourselves in terms of what we rate personally. Yet how many times do we look inward and ask ourselves the question “Who Do You Think You Are”. Who are you? Someone asks, “Who is Collette”! It’s a different answer from most people, and absolutely most likely not the answer I would give to myself. It’s confronting to dig deeply enough to weed out the real answer. Life rolls on, situations and people change, and we are an accumulation of many things. It’s a hard question! Perception is something that we have all become masters at. It starts in childhood. We show what we want of ourselves in order to achieve an outcome, a response, a thing, a friend, a client, a partner, to belong! We are energetically aligned to manifest, and I too believe everyone deserves to live their best life and experience their best selves every day. Peace of mind and success in whatever form that takes for you. It can all easily begin with becoming comfortable with who we are. Getting deep within ourselves. To just notice and focus. Feeling at ease with ourselves. To have confidence. To stand at the starting point of change. Maybe you are not focused on yourself! Maybe you are so distracted and concerned, overloaded, that you can’t even find a moment to just be and see the gift that is the real person that you are! We carry so many labels don’t we! Some assigned to us that we’d rather not really have. And so now to my point, which I usually take the long road around to when I’m telling a story! (Something that infuriates my family ha-ha) We build a perception of ourselves; we display it on the daily for the people we create for. We are confident to our public. We virtually become a part of someone’s lives from the chair, owned or claimed by them as “their barber/hairdresser”. We have power and persuasion on the daily. Yet why do we not have the same among our peers! Is it humility? Is it anxiety? Is it “I could never do it as good as ……..”. Dig into your subconscious self. Be able to empower yourself. Give yourself some gratitude, see yourself for who you really are. We can’t be someone else. Our work and creativity is our own. So many times,
I see the stunning potential of our industry people when they display their work on their social media. I know that their standard is exceptional. I want to reach into the doorways of their minds and open up and say, “Hey you amazing thing you…… put yourself out there”. Recently I was one of the team of judges for Australian Modern Barber Awards - AMBA. An inaugural event that blissed my eyeballs. You’ve really got to hand it to Mocha Group. They are on top of their game when it comes to bringing the goods to the public (And while I’m on that I hope you all have booked your tickets for Hair Festival 2022). The entries were perfect. A mix of styles and themes that you would expect given the eye and the hand of these talented creators. The backgrounds of the people entering spanned suburban shop to franchise and boutique, which I was so happy to see. But excuse me for saying this…. But…. Where were all the amazing gifted on fire people who I see on the daily. I get it! It costs a little time and money to enter these things but damn… you are so worth that. Create those new pathways, upgrade, think success, harness things to work for you. Create the shift for you to achieve and become one of the people who shape and contribute to where the industry goes. Don’t just sit back and watch from the stalls. Don’t just let the same old ones each time get to waive around their trophies and say look at us we did it again. Bring your goods to the table and help steer this ship. This industry is changing. It has a fresh wind blowing and the past 2 years is bringing a new perspective. If covid did anything, it shoved us into a place where we don’t ever want to go back to. New eyes, new standards, new expectations. New selves looking inward for inspiration and 2022 is the year for it. These are our last Blogs for 2021. It’s been a good year. I’ve really enjoyed it and look forward to the next. So let’s go out looking in. Let’s dig and find that the gold we really have is in our own selves? Look in that shop mirror and be ready when you ask yourself “Who Do You Think You Are?”. Merry Christmas and a safe and happy holiday season to everyone. Instagram: @collettesaundershair Founder: @australianfemalebarbers @afb_recruit Board Director: @jackreedfoundation
54 Barber Shop Year 10 Issue 4
BLOG SPOT.
Client Language with Don De Sanctis We ask the basic questions… “What would you like today? And when was your last haircut?” Their response… “Just a trim, short back and sides and a few weeks ago” But how do you determine what a trim is? Your definition of a trim is different compared to a client’s trim. A few weeks ago? Is that 1, 2 or 3 weeks ago? Could have been a month ago? These are the mistakes I hear and see with today’s generation of Barbers. To be successful with wellestablished clientele and minimal complaints, we need to break down the communication to understand what clients are wanting with their service. As Barbers we need to ask questions, not only at the consultation, but during their service as well. Open ended questions are beneficial as clients cannot respond with just a yes or no answer. Another helpful idea, with the use of the mirror, use your hands and comb as a guide to confirm the client’s desired length. I always say a great consultation = client retention! And this applies for new and existing clients. If a regular client is wanting a change to their current hairstyle, you should still be thorough with the consultation, as if it was a new client. We do not just make assumptions! Or even if a regular client expresses that they would like the same as last time, you will still need to communicate
with your client, summarising what you did last time and what you will be doing with today to achieve what they are after. This demonstrates that you understand your client. Knowledge is key! During their service, besides the general chitchat, gain approval and confirmation from your client with what you have achieved thus far. Asking questions such as ‘Are happy with the length?” “Would you like it shorter, if so, how much?’ It will save you time asking these questions during their service versus at the end, when they are not satisfied and wanting modifications. A great alternative, especially when dealing with those clients with minimal communication skills, is observing their body language and facial expressions. If the client has their arms crossed, or a raised eyebrow, giving no eye contact, or even tapping and fidgeting. These are signs that the client is not happy. As a barber, we must use our mirrors, not just to use as a guide for precision and styling, but also to understand the clients’ body language. If you are noticing that the client is not pleased with the service you are providing, in a calm and respectful manner, go through what you have achieved thus far and identify what they do not like. These techniques will not only help with achieving client satisfaction, but it also shows that you care about what they are after, but more importantly demonstrates that you are passionate about what you do. When the client can see that you care and attentive, they will always return.
55 Barber Shop Year 10 Issue 4
ALOPECIA AREATA BY PROFESSER BARRY STEVENS FTTS
ALOPECIA AREATA (symptoms-bald patches)
A condition affecting either gender in which one or more bald patches appear which may coalesce to involve significant areas of the scalp. Symptoms usually include the characteristic stubble (exclamation hairs), crawling sensations. The lesions may appear pink and spongy. The hair may eventually re-grow. Recurrence is always a possibility. This form of hair loss is a microscopically inflammatory often spontaneously reversible loss of hair, usually presenting as sharply defined patches of baldness (very occasionally diffuse). It can involve scalp, beard, or other hair-bearing skin. It is widely regarded as an organ-specific autoimmune response (an activity of the immune system), but some suggest psychosomatic implications.
The Trichologist’s Role – Caution: Only highly trained trichologists should be consulted. A Areata has significant physical and psychological implications (affecting self-esteem, confidence and appearance). Diagnosis and treatment of a patient with bald patches can be about offering psychological support. Bald patches can and often are misdiagnosed. The trichologist is usually consulted as a second opinion. A Areata cases can represent a major part of the trichologists daily work. Experienced trichologists have come to respect combinations of Actino + Electro therapies and Laser as safe sensitising procedures used in conjunction with short periods of local Hydrocortisone or Anthralin. Results are positive in many cases where others have failed. Professor Barry Stevens is one the world’s foremost experts in Trichology. He heads the Trichological Society in London and his papers are internationally recognised as a leading source of accurate information on scalp and hair disorders by Doctors and Trichologists alike. He has been a consultant to the BBC, The Thermal Hair Appliance Industry, Unilever Hair Cosmetics and has been awarded for “Outstanding Services to Hair Sciences – Worlwide”
There may be predisposition in families with a history of thyroid abnormality, eczema, asthma, or hay-fever. It can reportedly follow excessive, sudden, or prolonged stress, surgery, physical injury, bereavement, financial crises, and other human emotions inculcating the autonomic nervous system (sympathetic and parasympathetic) – which are generally beyond the control of the individual and may involve a breakdown within the sympathetic and parasympathetic nervous systems – adversely affecting hair-growth mechanisms. Body-chemistry abnormalities may also be implicated. Areata can have a profound impact on the lives of both children and adults. Its onset can be sudden, unpredictable, and recurrent. It progresses as hair-follicles prematurely enter catagen, telogen and exogen. The disease is not fully understood. Existing white or non-pigmented hairs usually remain intact in the development of an A Areata lesion. This phenomenon is not understood although by definition white hair-shafts have inactive melanocytes at their germinal matrix at the time of onset of the condition. The author observes that the disease, which may present as single or multiple bald patches of varying size which may coalesce may commence 6-12 weeks following the ’cause’. In some instances, hair losses have been reported within days.
Editor’s note: As Barbers we are often the first point of contact with our guests scalp and hair issues, and our guests themselves. A lot of the time we are the first and only people to point out these issues in the first instance. You should always refer your guests to a doctor or hair specialist however, I think we should all have some knowledge on the most common issues we see quite regularly in the chair. This gives us a better understanding of what our guest is going through, and we can give support and comfort to them by being equipped with some knowledge on these subjects. I hope you enjoy this series with the Professor. www.hairscientists.org
58 Barber Shop Year 10 Issue 4
AMBA Care Treat and Beard Product Awards WINNERS ANNOUNCED. In the inaugural Australian Modern Barber Awards, product companies were invited to put their products to the test in this exclusive, unique ‘Clean-Skin’ Competition where judges ranked their preference based purely on the product alone without any knowledge of the name or brand. Products were repackaged into clean skin bottles or jars and simply numbered for judging purposes. Judges then tested all products in the Care Treat and Beard categories over an 8 week judging period based on aroma, use, preference, value for money and performance and included members of the media, PR and grooming industry experts.
WE ARE PROUD TO ANNOUNCE THE THREE WINNERS!...
BEST IN CARE Justice Professional - Cool Mint Shampoo & Conditioner
A scalp detox shampoo to hydrate and stimulate the scalp, encourage circulation for healthy hair growth and a fresh, cool feel for the scalp. Benefits oily and dry scalps. Adds body and shine to the hair. Cool Mint Conditioner helps to detox and hydrate the scalp, stimulates blood circulation to the scalp, encouraging new hair growth and conditions and smooths the hair. Fresh mint fragrance helps you feel calm and refreshed. This dynamic duo ticks all the boxes! • Improves circulation to the scalp to stimulate hair growth and improve existing hair • Refreshes, controls and stabilises oil glands to improve brightness and shine to the hair • Soothes and corrects irritation of the scalp to efficiently fight dandruff • Strengthens, retains and moisturises whole adding body • Contains nasturtium to aid in the prevention of hair loss
BEST IN STYLE Hanz De Fuko – Claymation
This high calibre styling product will always work with you, never against you. Incredible “Clay-Wax” hybrid made with a touch of QUICKSAND. CLAYMATION contains all-natural ingredients, which means it’s actually good for your hair while providing powerful, “all- day” nourishment from roots to ends. Provides supreme holding power. Ultimate pliability for the perfect, semimatte hairstyle Completely water soluble
BEST IN BEARD Mr Muk - Beard Oil
Like liquid gold for facial hair, this luxurious, non-greasy formula makes even the most coarse and unruly facial hair soft and touchable. A rich blend of Moroccan argan oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil and aloe vera, each drop deeply moisturises the hair and leaves your beard looking smooth as silk. Free of sulphates, parabens, alcohol, phosphates, sodium chloride and mineral oils.
The AMBA Care Style and Beard Awards are proudly sponsored by Barbershop magazine
GEAR. NEW FROM CREW
Next Level Fiber Duo: Suited for medium to long hair types for a natural and healthy but well-groomed look and I ncludes 100ML Fiber Cream, 250ML Daily Deep Moisturising Shampoo Holiday Trio Forming Cream: Suited for beginner grooming enthusiasts who want easy-to-use products and includes: 85G Classic Forming Cream, 450ML Body Wash, 250ML Deep Daily Moisturising Shampoo www.americancrew.com
JOIKEN: SHINE SALON SERIES WITH BOAR + IONIC BRISTLES JOIKEN: SHINE THERMAL SERIES WITH ANTI STATIC THERMAL
High quality professional salon hair brushes are lightweight, ergonomic with large holes for fast drying.
reate easier & better styling with total hair tension control, leaving your hair shinier & healthier. Great for blow-drying, styling, brushing, touch-ups & control fly-aways. Brush Sizes available:
Diameter: 46mm, 54mm, 60mm, 74mm www.joiken.com.au
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NEWS NEWS VICTORIAN SALONS AND BARBERSHOPS NEW APPRENTICESHIP INITIATIVE THROUGH BOX HILL INSTITUTE AND JOBS VICTORIA PARTNERSHIP PROGRAM
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At the launch of the Jobs Victoria and Box Hill Institute partnership to provide 75 fully funded apprenticeships in hairdressing and barbering are L to R: apprentice Chiara Perrone, Ohana Hairdressing owner Olivia Zynevych, CEO & Managing Director of Box Hill Institute, Vivienne King, and The Hon Jaala Pullford MP, Minister for Employment and Small Business.
Jobs Victoria and Box Hill Institute have launched a partnership to provide the opportunity to support 75 participants to go into a Certificate III in Barbering or Hairdressing. Victorian Hairdressing and Barbershop employers are invited to participate in the innovative and inclusive program that provides 75 subsidised apprenticeships with enhanced skills training and support.
“The industry has been hit hard during the COVID19 pandemic, so this program has been developed to support the shortage of apprentices as well as transition those experiencing difficulty into meaningful jobs,” Executive Director - Educational Delivery Jane Trewin said. A further benefit for employers is the Federal Government’s Job Booster program that provides 50 percent wage subsidy for employers, if registered by 31 March 2022.
As the industry reopens and demand for stylist’s or barber’s increases, the initiative will see aspiring hairdressers and barbers complete two weeks of pre-training before starting employment. Employers will liaise with a respected industry leader as the mentor and Box Hill Institute’s Head of Hair and Beauty (Industry Engagement) Ruth Browne.
As part of the ground-breaking program, Box Hill Institute are investing and assisting each individual involved to ensure they have every opportunity to succeed. In addition to learning the skills that is part of their Certificate III qualification, it includes: • Comprehensive recruitment process aligning talent and employers
• Individual mentoring from day one, assistance and support from Box Hill Institute at every level
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• Initial skills and personality assessment to identify areas for development, with opportunities to participate in an accredited micro credentials program to fill in any gaps
• Multiple Masterclasses from high profile industry experts in hairdressing and barbering • Tailored ‘Job Readiness’ training of soft skills including communication, teamwork and client care
Jane Trewin said that the student’s course fees would be covered, and they would also receive resources including hairdressing kit, uniforms, and Pivot Point education materials. A skills assessment will be completed upfront to gauge their capability, soft skills training will then be provided aligned to micro-credentials, attendance to multiple industry master classes and a mentor for the first year of their training. Each apprentice participating in this program will receive around $15,000 in value of training and support.
“This program is the first of its kind in Australia, and the demand for hairdressing and barbering has never been higher, so we are pleased to be addressing the employee shortage in this way to help employers and the industry sector.” Jane Trewin said. Hairdressing and Barbering employers who are keen to be part of the program should visit www.boxhill.edu.au/course-areas/hair/or call Ruth Browne on 0411 052 208 for more information.
How to use print marketing to attract more customers to your barbershop. BY NICK BENDEL
In the olden days, before digital marketing became a thing, print marketing was the best way for barbers to promote their shop. Now, in the era of internet and smartphones, many barbers assume digital marketing is the be all and end all. Not true. Sure, digital marketing is important, and every business needs an online presence. However, barbers don’t need to choose either print or digital; they can opt for print AND digital. The upsurge in online marketing has created a clutter of content, making it tricky to stand out. Conversely, now that fewer barbers do print marketing, it’s never been easier to build brand awareness that way. No, print marketing is not dead Print media marketing means promoting your barbershop through tangible, physical items, like letters, flyers, postcards, posters and local newspaper ads. “Why should I bother with print marketing when I can run Facebook ads or do social media?” you might be wondering. Sure, it’s true that Facebook posts have the potential to reach lots of local residents if you do your targeting correctly. However, a Nielsen consumer survey of 9,000 consumers found that 62% of respondents reported that flyers and catalogues have the biggest impact on their spending decisions. The survey also found that personalised direct mail was regarded as 29% effective, compared to 25% for email marketing.
THE 10 BEST WAYS TO USE PRINT MARKETING 1. Create interesting marketing content Howard Gossage, the legendary ad executive, once said: “People don’t read ads. They read what interests them. Sometimes it’s an ad.” So, all your print marketing needs to be interesting. If it is, customers will happily consume it; if it’s not, they won’t. 2. Target publications your customers read Your customers are locals, so the local newspaper is a good way to reach them. One way to market your barbershop through the paper would be to run a paid ad directly promoting your services. Another would be to take an indirect approach, by submitting an interesting guest column – such as an article with grooming advice. You’d be offering the newspaper free content in return for what would effectively be a free ad. 3. Keep some brochures in your shop Print some attractive, good-quality brochures. Make sure they include information that’s not time sensitive. For example, the brochures could offer advice about hair care, beard care and scalp health; include photos of trendy hairstyles and beard styles; and provide information about your products and services. Place the brochures in the waiting area and on the barber’s chairs; customers can read them while they’re waiting and being served.
5. Stick to one concise message Less is more when it comes to direct mail. Resist the temptation to cram your letters, flyers and postcards full of words and offers, because reading them will feel like hard work. Instead, keep your mail pieces uncluttered. Mention your services or offer a discount or launch a new product – but don’t do all three. 6. Use high-quality images Your direct mail should also include high-quality images and crisp design. People are attracted to visually enticing things but are repelled by ugliness. 7. Stay on-brand and on-message Make sure your print and digital marketing are in harmony. So, use consistent branding and messaging. Otherwise, your customers will be confused. 8. Include a QR code Since the pandemic, we’ve all become used to scanning QR codes. So, include a QR code on every piece of print marketing. The code should link to a webpage or social media post that’s directly relevant to whatever content is included in your print piece. 9. Put posters on the walls Hang posters in your shop that show different hairstyles. The models in the posters could be actual models … or they could be customers who have given permission. By using customers, you not only make the look seem more attainable, you also highlight your local credentials. 10. Monitor the results There’s no point doing print marketing unless you get a return on investment. So, you need to monitor the results. When new clients visit your shop, ask them how they heard about you. When regulars visit, ask them if they’ve seen your newspaper ads or flyers. If you offer discount coupons through your local paper or direct mail, keep a tally of how many get redeemed. Based on the results, keep doing the things that are working and change the things that aren’t.
4. Send some good ol’ fashioned letters If you have access to an address list, send postcards or letters in the mail inviting gents to stop by the shop for hair, scalp or beard advice over a beer. This is a great way to build relationships with your customers and establish yourself as a trusted authority figure.
62 Barber Shop Year 10 Issue 4
Nick Bendel is the director of Hunter & Scribe, a copywriting / content marketing agency that writes content for brochures, flyers, letters, websites and more.
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Why social media marketing is an asset for your business and can increase its worth! BY GEORGE HAWWA, ATTENTION EXPERTS
Well, I bet you haven’t thought of social media marketing this way before. I bet you didn’t think that all the content and engagement on your social media pages could actually be worth some $$$???!!!! Does this create a bit of a game-changer for you now regarding your viewpoint on social media? If you were already a fan of social media, does this sweeten it even more? But how is it worth money, you might ask? Well, let me show you. With Social Media Marketing, you can make people aware of your brand, products or services without them having even entered your store/office. Then, you can actually collect data that will help you build warm audiences and determine which clients are likely more interested in your brand so that you can drive them to the point of conversion.
HOW TO CREATE MONETARY VALUE FROM YOUR BUSINESS’S SOCIAL MEDIA MARKETING ASSETS. Facebook pages, Instagram pages, Linkedin accounts. etc., are all part of the mix of the marketing channel that is social media. This channel allows you to attract people who are interested in your services or products and collect public engagement from those who find your information relevant, valuable or inspirational. When people like or follow you, you can repeatedly show them more material in the future once you have them subscribed to your social pages. This could be argued to have some value attached to it, as this will likely lead to passive sales for a business. There is another side of social media that many people don’t know much about. That is database collection. This is what interests me the most about social media. Databases are by far the most valuable asset of any business. If you have no database (no client lists, no information about your clients, no emails, no enquiries database), unfortunately, you have no value. Companies like Uber & Netflix ran at a loss for years to just collect databases to build overall underlying assets to their business.
those interacting with the brand. I recently spent time on the phone with a client of ours who has built over 80,000 people in his backend audience and has recently had an auditing house verify that this database has a monetary value attached to it for the sale of the business. The social databases collected are relevant and targeted. The data comes from people who have interacted with the brand through social media marketing activities. This now has worth! On top of this, the overall front of the social media pages creates brand value and brand presence, with a net worth attached. The great thing about social media marketing is that it is a channel that has an underlying asset built into it. I have repeatedly seen that when a social media campaign is paused, the campaign still continues to yield sales and inquiries. When you stop a Google Adwords campaign, that’s it – it stops, there is no reciprocal effect of the campaign. However, we continue to see the platform work with social media, even when the owner is no longer active. This changes things completely. Now you are not throwing your money down the drain for no result. Instead, you are actually building a business asset through social media marketing – granted, it is done properly in the first place! As Growth Director of leading social media agency, Attention Experts, George is in charge of the overall strategy, content, and advertising for client accounts while ensuring that all Attention Expert’s clients are obtaining a suitable return on their marketing investment.
With social media – especially Facebook, Instagram and Linkedin – we can build databases through Facebook Pixels; Facebook/Instagram audiences and Linkedin connections. These, if built at mass, will have the ability to be stored and cultivated over time to create a net return from 64 Barber Shop Year 10 Issue 4
For more information and help with your social media book a FREE 30 Minute Consultation by visiting https:// www.attentionexperts.com or phoning (02) 8095 9342.
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