Barbershop Year 6 Issue 4

Page 1

YEAR 6 ISSUE 3


Luxina Product Range at Barberco Ro Roddy from barberco spoke with us last week and was very excited to give us an insight into life in the fast lane at the fastest growing wholesaler for barbers in Australia.”There are so many exciting things happening right now” he said. ‘We have exciting projects locked in for the new year and not to mention expanding our range all the time, including a new range of products just landed from Italy called Luxina.” Eu An established brand in Europe, Luxina have launched in Australia with rave reviews. “The shaving cream is incredible” Roddy enthused. “A creamy lather is very easily achieved without the need to use too much, bringing you value for money.” Other products in the range include a beard balsam and beard oil to tame and style the coarsest of beards. A collection of shampoos round out the range. For wholesale enquiries: info@barberco.com.au www.barberco.com.au


24/7 Online Service | Competitive Prices | Quality Products

www.barberco.com.au






CONTENTS

ON THE COVER

12-14 Every Tattoo Tells A Story – Snakes & Snipers

REGULARS

10 Editors Letter 58 Snippets

COVER

PROFILE

16-18 Gentleman Jones 20 Not Your Average Barbershop 22 Barber of War By Danny Banford 24 Who is Sofie Pok? By Lance Liufau 26 From International to Interstate By Lance Liufau

16

FEATURE

28 Movember By Lance Liufau 30-32 How to Rock the Look – Goatee Styles 34 The Worst Men’s Hairstyles By Lance Liufau

PRODUCT PROFILE

36 Not Just For Santa’s Beard – Milkman Grooming Co

COLLECTION

24

38-43 ‘200’ By Chris Foster

EVENTS

44 2017 ABIA Special Recognition – Face Of Man

BLOGS

46 Trichology with Simone Lee – The Drying Game 48 There are Seven Days in a Week By Steve Corthine 50 You have the Pony Power By Paul Frasca

28

BUSINESS

52 6 Sins on Social Media and What You Can Do To Avoid Them By Tahlia Shorter 54-56 Words and Actions By Kelly Kent

44

Snakes & Snipers www.snakesandsnipers.com.au


90 YEARS THE ORIGINAL Presents the

BARBERING RANGE

From D-LUXE GROOMING for the Smooth to GRANDPA HARRY'S for Total Control or Just LA-EM STRAIT for the Ultimate Slick Murray's has it All Finishing with CD's SHAMPOO and SUPERFINE TALC

For further information or for your local supplier please contact

Australian International Industries on (03) 9764 2833 info@aii.net.au | www.aii.net.au Unit 7c Scoresby Industry Park, Janine Street, Scoresby VIC 3199 AIIHAIRANDBEAUTY

AIIHAIRBEAUTY

Australian International Industries PTY LTD

Supplying the Hair & Beauty Industry since 1974


BARBER SHOP PUBLISHER

Linda Woodhead linda@mochapublishing.com.au

EDITOR

Lance Liufau lance@mochapublishing.com.au

ADVERTISING MANAGER Nina Barbara nina@mochapublishing.com.au

editors letter

ART DIRECTOR

Kellie Woodhead kellie@mochapublishing.com.au

ADMINISTRATION

Jess Richmond jess@mochapublishing.com.au

CONTRIBUTORS Lance Liufau Danny Banford Simone Lee Steve Corthine Paul Frasca Tahlia Shorter Kelly Kent

OFFICE

PO BOX 252 Helensvale Plaza Qld 4212 P: 07 5580 5155 F: 07 5580 5166 mail@mochapublishing.com.au www.mochapublishing.com.au

DISTRIBUTION

Australia Post - Print Post 100005498

PRINTING APN

PUBLISHED BY mocha publishing

PUBLISHERS OF

HAIR BIZ, Beauty Biz, Australain Image & Barber Shop

Barber Shop is published four times a year by mocha publishing ABN 65 091 846 189 No Part of the publication may be reproduced in any manner or form without written permission. Barber Shop does not accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies, original artwork or other material. The views expressed in Barber Shop are not necessarily those of the publisher. No responsibility will be accepted if the publication is delayed or prevented by factors beyong the control of the publisher. No responsibility will be accepted for errors in copy, or for any loss arising from the failure of an advertisement or any part thereof to appear. © 2017 mocha publishing All rights reserved.

As another year is about to come to a close and your barbershop/salon will get a surge of business, as we near the Christmas period, it is always a great time to reflect on the year that has just passed. Was it a game-changing year for you, or was it an ordinary year? These are just a couple of the questions that we will ask ourselves as employees, employers/business owners, educators and hair event organisers. Whatever the outcome, result or answer to those questions are, I want to encourage you all to try your best to see the positive side of your current situation. There will always be some who have gone through trials far greater than yours and yet still have overcome them and come out on top. It is not what happens to us that count, it is how we react, and whether that reaction is positive or negative, is entirely dependent on you. Here’s something to think about, think about every regular client that has walked through your establishments doors this year. Just think about them for a minute before you read on… Now think of what kind of an impact you or any of your surrounding barbers/stylists has had on them this year. Every time they walk into your shop, they are not only putting all of their faith in you to make them look their best, but they are also trusting you with information, experiences and life stories that they might not even share with their closest friend. That ladies and gentlemen is a great responsibility! For it is our duty to lend an ear and to help all of our clients feel better about themselves not only on the outward appearance but also on the inside. So with all of that being said, whether your year was all about tremendous growth or had a plateau affect, please remember the reasons why we got into this industry in the first place. To invest in people whether it is clients, co-workers, employees, it doesn’t matter… because we are all people. So let’s come together and unite as people within the Barbering Industry to make this world a better place one haircut at a time. Yours Sincerely,

Lance Liufau

Lance Liufau Editor – Barbershop Magazine Instagram: @lance_topshelfbarber


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COVER STORY

Every Tattoo Tells A Story


Stevie English

Protect & Resurrect is a revolutionary tattoo care cream, developed in Australia, to prevent tattoos from fading and help resurrect old tattoos. Snakes & Snipers Protect & Resurrect is a unique product dedicated to the care and maintenance of tattoos and tattooed skin.

Alan Buki

“We didn’t want to create just a high performance moisturiser. We wanted a product that actually made a difference.”

Snakes & Snipers originated in the idea that there must be a way to stop tattoos stop fading, and make old ink look new again and is the brain child of Alan Buki and Stevie English - one with a love of creating products that don’t harm, and the other with a love of tattoos. Both are passionate about sustainability and being chemically and environmentally conscious. Their vision was to create an exceptional product, made from premium, natural ingredients, engineered to rejuvenate existing tattoos while also protecting new ones. Alan and Stevie are also mindful about supporting the local economy, which is why snakes&snipers is locally made and owned, and all ingredients, manufacturing and operations are sourced right here in Australia. We spoke to Stevie about this revolutionary brand and how two friends managed to get this off the ground over many years of trial, effort and most likely Tequila!

HOW DID THE BRAND COME ABOUT?

Basically, around 5 years ago, I noticed after one of my most recent ink adventures, that my old tattoos looked faded and not up to scratch. I decided to go hell for leather on finding something that could look after them and stop this getting worse. There was nothing in the market which led me to think that there should be! So, I went to my good friend and one of creators of Original&Mineral, Alan Buki and asked what he thought. He went off researching 13 Barber Shop Year 6 Issue 4

like a madman. Alan brought to the table experience and knowledge from creating his own Haircare range some years ago. As it happens,Alan and I are both hairdressers who wok in and own our own salons:- Stevie English Hair, Sydney and Alan Buki, Paddington Sydney. Alan knew a chemist who might be able to help us and it all went on from there.

WHAT IS THE UNIQUE POINT OF DIFFERENCE OF THE BRAND?

Pretty much the time we have out into it! 4 years of trials! We didn’t want to create just a high performance moisturiser. We wanted a product that actually made a difference. Our chemist came up with a synthesised snake venom, that reacts well with the skin, helps with the prevention of ageing and reduces lines. It was a good place to start along with the need for some ‘spf ‘to help protect the skin in the harsh Australian Sun. Our brand was coming together and the name Protect and Resurrect was born. To be honest it was a long drawn out process of trialling products, perfecting smells, checking and rechecking until we were happy and until we gained both TGA and STA approval.

TELL US ABOUT THE IMAGERY OF THE BRAND

We didn’t want Protect and Resurrect to look like a tattoo product with Tattoos on the box. We wanted a brand that sits alongside your other lifestyle choices. I read a stat that 1 in 4 Australians have a tattoo. Where I live I’m sure it’s 1 out of 2! I spend a fortune on my ink and want to cont’d on page 14


HOW DOES IT WORK? Australian made and owned, Protect & Resurrect is created from ethically and sustainably sourced ingredients that are of the highest quality and can be used for all tattooed skin types.

cont’d from page 13 look after them. Our cream has been proven to sharpen lines and stop the deterioration of tattoos. My tattoos now look better than they did 4 years ago!

WHERE DO YOU SEE YOUR MARKET?

We have noticed a lot of barbers have ink and are used to selling products. Likewise hair and beauty salons are becoming more and more popular for men in terms of grooming. The male beauty regime is just escalating. Personally I want to look the best I can wether that’s my skin, my gut or my tattoos! Having said that there are so many women with tattoos that this product has to be unisex friendly so with the statistics showing 1 in 4 then its pretty much there for anyone who wants to keep their ink looking fresh!

WHY SHOULD RETAILERS GET BEHIND THE BRAND?

There is a great mark-up and it’s something that can help grow your business. We are already in 10 barbers in Sydney and growing and that’s with out any reps. Obviously we are available in some tattoo parlours and proud to be in arguably the most prestigious tattoo parlour In Sydney

- Little Tokyo. We are certainly open to distributing through other retailers including more hair and beauty salons, barber shops, tattoo parlours and even some cool clothes shops.

The secret ingredient is a peptide which relaxes skin tissue, helping restore elasticity while a ground-breaking oxygen carrier boosts radiance with a 3-D plumping effect. These are combined with natural oils and polymers to create a depth of shine, and plant extracts to combat free-radicals to help refract light within your skin. We’ve added SPF 15, UVB and UVA Broad Spectrum absorbers which help defend your tattooed skin from harmful UV rays.

WHAT MERCHANDISING AND MARKETING SUPPORT CAN YOU OFFER?

The peptide found naturally in the venom of the South East Asian Temple Viper, has a strong ability to relax muscle contraction. By mimicking this effect, Protect & Resurrect helps restore skin’s elasticity. It not only reduces the appearance of image fade and line spread, but can create tighter skin, leading to sharper, smoother tattoo outlines and longer-lasting colour vibrancy.

HOW DID THE PHOTOS THAT REPRESENT THE BRAND COME ABOUT?

WHAT’S IN IT

At the moment we are offering posters, counter postcards, shelf decals and a box stand that holds 12 boxes of snakes&snipers. We have sample sizes too.

The photos that represent the brand came about from my love of shooting - I love shooting hair stuff so it was completely different trying to figure out what our brand image is... to be honest that’s going to be always changing. We have some new models for our next shoot as well as some of faves. Snakes&Snipers is a lifestyle brand for tattoo enthusiasts. We have been told it helps people with dermatitis. But really we want it to become a daily “protect and resurrect” application for your skin and ink. www.snakesandsnipers.com.au 14 Barber Shop Year 6 Issue 4

A blend of Jojoba and Macadamia nut oils, which are rich in essential fatty acids, and have antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties restore the natural balance of your skin Tripeptide which enhances skin elasticity, creates a smoothing effect on your skin cells and helps keep your tattoo’s image sharp Jojoba Esters and Silicone Polymers help to maintain the original appearance of your tattoo while giving maximum depth of shine Green Tea extract and a Deep Sea Marine extract with anti-oxidant and free radical scavenging properties protect the skin from photo ageing SPF 15, UVB and UVA Broad Spectrum absorbers defend against harmful UV rays A unique fast breaking emulsion system gives a smooth non-greasy spreading action.



Gentleman Jones

16 Barber Shop Year 6 Issue 4


EVERY MAN IS EQUAL When a man walks into a traditional Barbershop, he should feel as welcome, as the next whether he is a local wealthy celebrity, or a homeless man who has saved for his haircut. He should feel comfortable and be offered a service that is professional and friendly, making him feel like a true gentleman. Men should have a place they can escape, the responsibilities and pressures if they want- of today’s society, or have a place where they can meet with mates and not feel guilty simply for some time out. They can talk about anything from politics to jokes and not feel they must have airs and graces but simply be themselves - without judgement. A place where a man’s social or cultural position or even income is simply forgotten at the door. A traditional gentlemen’s Barber should be that place. Gentleman Jones’s is that place. We honour with as much integrity as we can the traditions and services of our Grandfathers barbers, including the whiskey, game of pool, and the odd good yarn and of course face shaves and beard grooming. We combine this with modern equipment and ongoing contemporary training, and with a team who share our values and all this has created Gentleman Jones. The smells of Bay rum and whiskey as they enter should invoke memory, of their family traditions of visiting the barbers with their father. Perhaps even Memories of their Grandfather. His local barber should be a place where a Gentleman begins to create new traditions for his sons. The vintage items on display some of which some date back 200 years are family heirlooms and collected items that reflect all our families’ heritage of Publicans that span from London Pubs to Townsville Hotels, and the memories this holds for many who have come across them in their lifetimes. They all have a story from the Koken chairs, which are as old as 130 years, from the factory that opened in Sydney, and 6 weeks later burned down. Only few chairs being produced here by that factory- two of which now sit in our store. Having sat in a man’s storage facility inherited from his German Barer grandfather, up in the hills of Hahndorf outside Adelaide, found by us on a picking trip. and much of our displays. From games, to unique books, to chess, we try to encourage men to take time out and ignore the world for as little as a moment. To them the wait (no appointments) initially seem s a chore, then within a short amount of time you notice conversations struck up with strangers and new connections being made by men whose paths would not ordinarily cross. This is what make us feel like we have succeeded. The whiskey while you wait, or aged port after your shave while you play pool, are all reflections of barbershops in the past and offer an extra service that was missing from today’s barber shops in rural areas.

17 Barber Shop Year 6 Issue 4

“A place where a man’s social or cultural position or even income is simply forgotten at the door. A traditional gentlemen’s Barber should be that place.” cont’d on page 18


cont’d from page 17

We are committed to creating more Barbers, and employment in our industry by offering training, and education, and workshops for professionals. We embrace this belief in quality and professional industry growth, and have seen some of ours team already go out on their own to open successful barber shops after training with us, make us feel proud of our level of training. This is an achievement we believe fortifies our passion we are passing on to the next generation of barbers. By producing and manufacturing our own range of wholesale products designed for other barbers with the intention of saving them money on retail and consumables without compromising on quality, also demonstrates our drive to improve the industry. The alchemy range has been a 25-year project since completing the trichology chemistry course decades ago after a career that began as a 5-year apprenticeship in hairdressing to the most valuable experiences in a barber shop owned by a 96-year-old barber. It has since been that barber shop experience a passion, or even obsession to create a traditional barber shop, and alchemy range and to improve the quality of employee training in our industry- and it has finally coming into fruition. None of these things would be achievable if I had not such a great team beside me who truly share my values and passion for this industry. A business cannot succeed without valuable committed employees- and in our case – some of the greatest team mates, who genuinely care about this industry. As for my story- before I even began there were challenges- I truly wanted to be a barer and was told it would be impossible as I am blind in one eye. Technically I’m a blind barber- and the more I was told I could not do something the more determined I became. I learned to cut hair with the sight in only one eye- a skill they said I could not master. I completed my 5 years as a hairdressing apprentice (yeah, they were long back then) and then began working for a magnificent 96-year-old barber who taught me as much as my hairdressing mentor had. I completed my diploma of trichology sometime after, knowing one day I would like to use this science background to write my own recipes for products. I believe my determination and reputation among my peers now has proved the original naysayers who said a blind barber could not succeed- could consider that I am still here 30 years later to show them they were wrong. My passion for this industry has overcome many things including my cystic fibrosis and the health challenges it creates every day, but I am passionate and committed to my goals, and everyone has something going onyou just must never lose sight of what you want (pardon the pun). I hope I can leave a legacy that includes better training for barbers, training availability in rural areas and an industry commitment that encourages constant improvement in traditional barbering. As well as this if I can create a Traditional Barber shop that outlives my generation, my legacy will be a tangible entity- a memory that others can continue to enjoy. Gentleman Jones X

18 Barber Shop Year 6 Issue 4

“We honour with as much integrity as we can the traditions and services of our Grandfathers barbers”


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D E S I G N E D BY BA R B E R S FOR BARBERS


NOT YOUR AVERAGE

BARBERSHOP

Purveyors of cool cuts, close shaves and ontrend styles, RazorSmiths is set to challenge your grooming expectations. Merging the nostalgia of the gritty 20’s with some very modern touches, it’s the barbershop reimagined for the modern man. Think an inimitable laid-back vibe, retro ‘Who dunnit’ pinball machine as well as a carefully curated whiskey cart, all tucked away at the end of Smith Street, Collingwood. Created by acclaimed Xiang Hair owner Tom Donato with partners in crime Andrea, Jamie and Danni, RazorSmiths sees Lead Creative Nissa at the helm, accompanied by Junior Creative Moe and an eclectic crew of new age barbers. Having studiously honed their clipper and razor skills alongside the best in the business over in London, they are now excited to encourage locals to discover and embrace their unique style. Clients are promised an experience at the cutting edge of male grooming every visit, with the menu board featuring the ‘Style Cut’ for the classic gent looking to impress or the ‘Clipper Cut’ for a solid uniform finish and statement style. There is even something for the smallest of gentlemen with ‘The Junior’- the perfect way to introduce 5-12 year olds to the barbershop rite of passage.

But the pièce de résistance is the ‘Signature Shave’ - an homage to the oft forgotten art of the old-school razor blade shave. The hot towel, the carefully lathered foam, the closest shave possible, all followed up by a luxurious mini facial. Everyone who experiences it is set to walk out the doors a new man. Rocking a little facial hair? No problem. They don’t only specialise in taking them off, they are also masters at keeping them on- RazorSmiths never met a mane they couldn’t tame and with the current crop of hirsute men wandering Melbourne’s streets, they have their work cut out for them. RazorSmiths feels like visiting your mate’s place, but the coolest mate, the one everyone always wants to hang out with. The fit out is truly every guys ultimate hangout brought to life with toolboxes as work spaces, exposed brick walls, industrial workbenches, heavy duty factory lighting and vintage inspired shop chairs setting the scene. Add in that pinball machine and the ever-evolving whiskey cart and, at RazorSmiths, customers are actually hoping to be kept waiting! RazorSmiths is situated at 342 Smith Street, Collingwood, VIC www.razorsmiths.com.au IG. @razorsmiths FB. RazorSmiths

20 Barber Shop Year 6 Issue 4


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Barber Of War BY DANNY BANFORD

My name is Danny Banford and I am married to my best friend Laura. I have 3 sons aged 16,13 and 1. Testosterone overload! I am a Football (soccer) and Thai boxing fanatic.

22 Barber Shop Year 6 Issue 4


I was born in Belfast and I moved to Australia in 1992, aged 7, with my parents and sister. I joined the Australian army in 2004 at the age of 19 and served in Afghanistan and East Timor. Left the army in 2011 and moved to Belfast to start the recruitment process to join the marines. While living in Belfast and doing the recruitment process and training and fighting in Thailand I met a little catholic girl from Belfast who lived in a Catholic area surrounded by IRA enthusiasts! That was the start of my ‘undercover work!’ Haha! A soldier never mind a commando moving within these circles were nerve racking... picture the movie ‘departed!’ Lol So I joined up in 2012 and after training I went to 43 Commando in Scotland where I was later promoted to Lance Corporal. I then passed SFSG (Special Forces Support Group) selection and moved to Wales. Later that year Laura and I got married and the family moved over to join me, telling them what I did while on the ferry from Belfast to Liverpool! Was interesting to say the least! This is where my barber journey began, I was enjoying my time jumping out of planes and even fighting on the front line but around 2015 I started to look for a change. I literally woke up with barbering on my mind and battled the thoughts for a week or 2 because commandoes don’t cut hair! Eventually I asked Laura to show me some things as she had a home salon by this stage. I was hooked! This was effectively the end of my motivation for my military career. I became obsessed with doing free haircuts on the lads and studying YouTube etc. We were on an exercise in the desert of Oman for 6 weeks and I spent every day off cutting the lads hair for practice. Lessons were learnt but the lads were ok as there was no one about! After we got back and once I was placed on leave I went to a basic barbering course and from there converted my garage and spent my spare time cutting and shaving anyone and everyone while on my days off from work. I decided that this is what I wanted to do with my life so I had the daunting task of telling my CSM, OC and CO (marine and 2 paratroopers) that I was rejecting promotion and moving my family to Australia and opening a barbershop. As you can imagine that didn’t go down to well. From there I spent the last of my military year training with ‘Gents of London’ learning the traditional ways of barbering and critiquing any faults I picked up in my own journey. During the course the owner of Cardiff’s most popular barbershop called Keep the Faith social club, scouted me. I ended up working there and gaining priceless shop experience before heading to Australia in Nov 2016. From there we arrived and I again took a risk. As we had little money to properly convert my garage to a barbershop so I figured I could work from there for a while and then planned to get a shop in a year if all went well. Well, I was booked out within a month and the opportunity for the current shop came about shortly after so we moved again in mid February 2017. Laura and I are now flat out and we also have 3 other barbers helping us. Sometimes I feel that this all is not real, in fact sometimes I have to pinch myself to be sure. Big news today, exactly 1 year from arriving we just got the keys to a new bigger shop! Which we are so excited about! Without God none of this would have happened and I’d still be unhappy in the U.K. I have not only found my true passion but I can honestly say that I am truly happy. Clipper drop! You will find Danny and Laura at Hearts and Minds Barber Emporium, Toukley, NSW


Who is Sofie Pok? BY LANCE LIUFAU


The definition of an influencer is ‘an individual who has the ability to influence the opinion or view of a target audience, largely thanks to their social media following’ in todays times. In Sofie’s case she has been able to do exactly that within the worlds barbering industry in such a positive and inspiring way. With having been apart of the industry for eight years, Sofie’s work is now being recognised around the world not only as a barber but also as an educator. Sofie has various ambassadorial roles aligned with companies such as Mizutani Scissors and Babyliss Pro just to name a couple. With numerous accolades and awards, Sofie has just recently received the Barber Of The Year at the 2017 American Influencer Awards. Sofie has got an AKA which is her Instagram name of @StayGold31, she explains how she came to obtain this name which is really quite interesting, Sofie says; “Stay Gold came from a tattoo I had blasted across my knuckles. I was hitting a really big turning point in my life when I realized that I was always changing myself to fit certain scenarios, or people I was with. Through life experiences you start to feel like you lose yourself, it’s hard to realize that about yourself when you’re in it, so when I got the tattoo done it was there to always remind me to stay true to who I was no matter what. Once I got it done I saw it everyday and I started to take more control of my life.” This is an attribute that I feel we can all take into our own lives and focus on who we are and try our best to stay true to ourselves. One thing that is so evident in Sofie’s work is the amount of time, effort and passion that she displays as she performs haircuts and also the content that Sofie creates for her social media. This is what Sofie has to say about what makes a great haircut; “A great haircut has to be the right haircut for that particular client, to be able to take their words and images and transform that to fit their look and lifestyle. Every cut is custom to the client. It may be the same style, but no two heads are cut the same. Challenging enough, everyone has a different face and head shape. We not only must deliver a great haircut, but also the confidence that we did our absolute best to give them that when they walk out the door.” As barbers, I think we can all agree with that statement. We have an obligation and a duty of care to every single client to help them not only look their best but to also educate them on how they can duplicate that same style at home for themselves. Sofie has also travelled to many countries around the world to share and showcase her skill sets with fellow barbers. But on top of all of this, Sofie works hard to

set an example for barbers present and future, many times before Sofie has spoken heavily about inspiring others to be better in what they do as well as within themselves. With great words of encouragement and motivation, here is what Sofie has to say to anyone that is looking to join the industry; “Once you walk through the doors of the shop, you must focus on everything you do and everyone you come into contact with. You have to leave all your personal distractions at the door. Pay attention to all that’s around you and happening because you can learn a lot from watching and listening. Ask a lot of questions. Do not let fear take over. FOCUS. Very wise words by Sofie, especially the part about being focused on everything your doing as a barber but more importantly focusing on everyone you come into contact with. For it is our clients that give us the opportunity to do what we love, they also are the ones that support our families by sitting in our chairs and they are also the reasons why our shop doors stay open. So with that being said, we are just a person that knows how to cut hair without our clients, so our focus is the very least we can give them. With such great victories comes great sacrifice, and Sofie is no stranger to facing adversary head on. It is no coincidence that Sofie has come so far within her career as a barber, because hard work is something that comes natural to her. Here’s an example that Sofie shares with us on committing to something and pushing through when times get tough; “My favorite tattoo is my dragon, which is my entire back. Tattoos are never an easy thing to start and finish, especially a big section. Doing my entire back was definitely challenging, but just like in life, in order for us to get anything done it takes baby steps and self-motivation to push through these challenging moments.” With everything that has been said in this article about my good friend Sofia Pok aka StayGold31, it is clear that Sofie has put an insanely amount of work to reach the levels that she has reached. Sofie’s work speaks for itself and her drive and ambition is inspiring to all. I personally feel that we can definitely take a little something from Sofie’s great example especially to those of us that are in the barbering industry, but even to those that isn’t. For this we thank you Sofia and we hope to see you touch down on our shores one day soon. Follow Sofia on Instagram: @staygold31

25 Barber Shop Year 6 Issue 4


From International to Interstate BY LANCE LIUFAU

Two young men that have moved from a continent on the other side of the world have found their place here in the beautiful Australia and they go by the names of Eoin McCarthy (Cork, Ireland) and Harris Heaton (Lancashire, England), both now working at different barbershops in Melbourne, Victoria.


What these two young men have brought with them is a level of excitement that is refreshing for the industry. Having spent some time in Hair Salons learning hairdressing scissor techniques, they have both been able to combine those same techniques with the craft of barbering, which we all know is a lethal combination. But what I am really impressed with is their willingness to share what they know with any wo are willing to learn something new. On the 9th of October 2017 both Eoin and Harris just so happened to be in Brisbane, Queensland at the same time and reached out via Instagram to the industry and to anyone who was interested in attending a Look & Learn Workshop, which was held at The ChopSpot Barbershop in West End. Now considering the information was only released a week and a half before the workshop was to take place, it was great to see how many barbers were so eager to learn and evolve their skill sets by the number of attendees that showed up on such short notice. Because it was held on a Monday, many of those who attended were there on either their day off or they had taken a day off from their shops to come and watch these two great barbers put their talents to work and to see exactly how they achieve the results that they get. Obviously because they have come so far to join the Australian Barbering Industry, they come with a different way of doing things and it is because of workshops like these we have the opportunity to take full advantage of them and gain skills that we may have never picked up. Within the workshop there was a mix of male and female attendees, different ethnicities and a range of cultural interests but there was that one common interest which all that were there, wanted to see, and that was giving a great haircut. A great and pure example of unity within the barbering industry and how we as people of the hair industry can bring people together regardless of race, height, weight or life’s choices. From this I would like to personally thank Eoin and Harris and all that have the same views on sharing their knowledge and techniques to help others develop and improve themselves to become better barbers. I will also take this time to let you all know that Eoin and Harris will both be coming back to Brisbane in December 2017 to once again share and put there cutting techniques on display for anyone who wants to learn something new. If you would like to view and follow their work you can find them on Instagram. @eoinmccarthyhair @harrisheaton94 27 Barber Shop Year 6 Issue 4


BY LANCE LIUFAU

28 Barber Shop Year 6 Issue 4


In the month of November a wonderful tradition was started back in 2004 and since then has raised funds and awareness for a great cause. A boy is always told whilst growing up that he should “be a man”, “grow up”, “stop crying like a girl” and to “harden up”. Even as a child, these are some of the things that are said with the thought in mind that as a parent they are helping their child by saying these things because it will prepare them for what the world is really like. But studies and research and countless incidents of male suicide are proof that this isn’t always the case. What this really does is convinces a male that showing emotion is wrong and not masculine, to speak of ones pains and sorrows is showing weakness and to open up to a mate about your true feelings, you’ll be looked at like a weirdo or feminine. Even though the tradition of Movember covers Men’s Health in most areas this is the one particular area that I feel so strongly about, having been a victim of these thoughts at one stage of my life. Having the mental strength to push past and through certain trials in life does not come natural to most people and it is an unfortunate statistic but three out of every four suicides are male. This clearly shows that something must change; Movember Foundation was one of those things that came to life and has helped so many men over the years since 2004. Even if you haven’t been a victim to such thoughts of suicide, I am sure we have all known one person that has. It is those people that need our help. Some of the actions we can take to help someone that we care about, get out of such a state of mind is by simply being there as a friend.

days. In fact I have even put this into action many times and the reaction was mind blowing, people would look at me like I was strange for even asking that question. But know that this simple action could be the very moment that a person is looking for to talk to someone. Then there is the call to LISTEN, by listening not only with our ears but also with our heart and genuinely showing concern for that person will show that person that they are cared for and that their thoughts and possible actions is not the way to go. You will be surprised how effective listening to someone can be. We then move to ENCOURAGE ACTION, there are professionals that can help and resources that can be explored, many of these can be found online. But even as simple as encouraging your family member or friend of the joyful memories that they have experienced in life, can help them in more ways then you think. Lastly CHECK IN, by checking in with that person by a simple message or phone call. We can continue the help process and make sure that future plans are made and committed to. We should try and not make plans to vague, by picking a time and committing to that time to get together over a bite to eat or just a general catch up is an effective way to show our true willingness to be there for them in their times of need. Ultimately that is what we want them to know, that we are there for them. That they have more to live for and they have people that care for them regardless of what they might be going through. So with all this, what is it that we are going to do? Because it is up to us whether we decide to recognise the signs or not, by constantly staying motivated to be aware of our own health as men we can also learn to recognise the signs in others, so lets get behind Movember and give it a go. You can find the Movemeber Foundation on there, Website: www.au.movember.com Facebook: www.facebook.com/ MovemberAustralia Instagram: @movember

The Movember Foundation Website gives a few tips where we can show support to our friends and loved ones by simply TALKING, now I know that this might sound like it is something small and won’t do much for that person but by talking to someone it gives them the opportunity to talk to us. Next we can ASK, asking someone genuinely, “how are youdoing” is something that I feel is not done enough these 29 Barber Shop Year 6 Issue 4


How to Rock the Look 25 Cool Goatee Styles If you’ve ever thought about trying a goatee, now’s the time. With the massive resurgence in facial hair trends for men, this classic beard type promises to make you look stylish and suave. All you need to do is find the right goatee shape and style for you. Luckily, there are plenty of options that tick all the boxes for modern gents who take pride in their appearance. No matter what your face shape or how your facial hair grows, you’ll find a great goatee for you amongst this list. From the subtle and understated to the bold and daring, these styles look as cool as any full beard and take only half the time to grow. What is a Goatee? goatee noun: a small pointed beard like that of a goat. Inspired by the animal, a goatee is a type of beard that appears similar to the hairs on the chin of a goat. Far different to a full beard, goatees feature a tuft of hair on the chin and clean cheeks. While the original goatee beards were longer and more pointed, today’s goatees tend to be shorter and more varied in shape. They can also often include a moustache and soul patch. The minimal hair growth required for a contemporary goatee also makes it a great option for men who have difficulties growing a beard. Of course, you’ll have to commit to regular trimming and styling to keep your goatee looking sharp. How to Trim and Style Your Goatee Trimming and grooming are essential for keeping your goatee looking stylish and gentlemanly. Without regular maintenance, your goatee can quickly become messy and appear dishevelled, so it’s best to stick to a routine. The most important part of grooming your goatee is defining its edges. To achieve neat and clean edges, a razor is the best tool to use, but an electric shaver with trimming attachment can also work. Once you’ve cleaned up the shape of your goatee, you can trim your facial hair to appear tidier. Simply follow the shape of your goatee and cut to a consistent length, getting rid of split ends in the process. Then, finish by trimming your moustache to the same length as the rest of your goatee. 30 Barber Shop Year 6 Issue 4


GOATEE STYLES

From the reinvented Van Dyke classic to the Anchor and Landing Strip, modernday goatees come in many forms, making them easily tailored to your style. 1. VAN DYKE GOATEE

2. GOATEE BEARD

The Van Dyke goatee gets its name from the 17thcentury artist, Anthony van Dyke. It typically features a French moustache, soul patch connected to a small goatee, and clean-shaven cheeks.

A goatee beard features a tuft of longer hair around the chin and shorter strands along the rest of the jaw.

4. THE ANCHOR

3. FULL GOATEE

The Anchor features a strip of hair from beneath the lip to the chin that then extends outwards along the jawline.

A full goatee surrounds the mouth and covers the chin with hair so that the moustache, soul patch, and goatee all become one.

5. CHIN GOATEE

6. LANDING STRIP

This chin goatee features a small, concentrated tuft of hair right at the point of the chin.

7. UNTRIMMED GOATEE

This stylish, untrimmed goatee gives off a relaxed vibe when combined with a long moustache and grown out sideburns.

A landing strip goatee consists of a small line of hair extending from the bottom of the lip down the chin.

8. STUBBLE GOATEE Don’t think that just because you prefer stubble to a beard that you can’t rock a great goatee.

9. UNDERSTATED GOATEE WITH SOUL PATCH This understated goatee with a soul patch is just the right amount of rugged for a modern, polished man.

11. SHORT ANCHOR

This goatee features a cool, short anchor style. If you want to try the look for yourself, be careful to ensure that both sides are symmetrical.

10. STRAIGHT EDGE GOATEE Straight edges can give a goatee a more defined and sharp appearance.

12. ROUNDED GOATEE

Rounding the edges of your goatee creates a softer and more subdued appearance. cont’d on page 32


cont’d from page 31

13. NATURAL GOATEE

The natural appearance of this slightly scruffy and undefined goatee creates a more modern look than that of seriously sharp and clean styles.

15. GREY GOATEE

Gents of any age can rock a goatee and look great. Just look at this sophisticated style for inspiration.

14. LOW CHIN GOATEE

These gents rock their small goatees low on their chins for a unique style.

16. GOATEE WITH MOUSTACHE & SOUL PATCH

For gents who like their facial hair a little more subtle, this short goatee with moustache and soul patch makes an excellent option.

17. GOATEE WITH BEARD STUBBLE

This goatee with beard stubble is a super stylish look to suit any man.

18. ANCHOR GOATEE BEARD

This gent’s facial hair takes the shape and style of the Anchor and dials it up into a long, goatee beard.

20. CURLY GOATEE

19. EXTENDED GOATEE While the traditional goatee features hair just on the chin, this extended version widens outwards around part of the jawline.

21. CONNECTED GOATEE

This hipster style goatee proves that curly-haired men can also rock this type of facial hair.

The classic, connected goatee features an extension of the moustache that blends into the sides of the beard.

22. CONNECTED GOATEE WITH SOUL PATCH

23. CHINSTRAP GOATEE Rocking your goatee with a chinstrap will give it the feeling of a beard without swamping your face with hair.

If you have a large chin or broad mouth the addition of a soul patch can transform this goatee into the perfect style for your face.

24. CHIN STRIP GOATEE

Combining your goatee with a chin strip or landing strip can create a very distinct and eyecatching style.

25. BARELYTHERE GOATEE

Gents with delicate features or slow-growing facial hair will find that this barely-there goatee provides just the right amount of style.

32 Barber Shop Year 6 Issue 4


2018 ARE YOU THE 2018 FASHIONISTA?

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The worst men’s hairstyles! BY LANCE LIUFAU


Over time there have been plenty of haircuts and hairstyles that just weren’t right, some have even been supported and worn by certain celebrities and in return has persuaded so many men to do the same. So my question to you as readers of this magazine is… What do you think the worst haircut/hairstyle that has been worn by men of all time is? In fact I am so interested on what our readers have to say, I would like you to submit an image and your reasoning for your choice of the worst haircut worn by men, to The Barbershop Magazine Facebook page or Instagram Page (see links below) With that being said, how about we go through some of these haircuts/hairstyles and see if you can get an idea of what I am talking about. Lets kick start this with:

THE MIGHTY MULLET

This particular hairstyle has been worn by some of the most famous celebrities for example, Country Music Star and father to the worlds most infamous Twerker, Billy Ray Cyrus or Tennis Superstar, Andre Agassi and Joe Dirt. This hairstyle in more recent times was modified and became a bit more conservative by various Professional Rugby Players such as Carmichael Hunt, Sonny Bill Williams and the good old Matt Stunning Dunning. Would this be your choice of the worst haircut? Well let’s move on to something else that requires a bit more hair product.

THE SPIKE

I will be the first to admit that in my younger days I fell victim to the spike phenomenon, I tried my very best to spike my hair with whatever hair product I could find whether it be Gel, Mousse, Hairspray or Vaseline if all else failed. Some who were most popular for their spikes were the likes of Taylor Lautner the spunkiest dog you’ll ever see on film or Leonardo Dicaprio and lets not forget the fun loving one who came in like a wrecking ball. Now would this be your choice of the worst haircut? But that’s enough of that, how about we move onto the only men’s hairstyle that has physically been attacked.

THE MAN BUN

From what I thought was something that would never catch on, quite quickly turned into an epidemic across the world. People disagreed with this movement so much that ‘STOP THE TOP KNOT’ campaigns were formed and viral videos were being made of young men creeping up behind men with the man bun and quickly snipping it off before they ran for their lives. That is definitely something that I wouldn’t recommend you do even if you oppose the MAN Bun with a passion. But lets think about a few that have worn

‘THE MAN BUN’ well. The first that comes to mind is one of the most recent Marvel Stars, Jason Momoa, now there’s a MAN’S BUN’S woman would want to see, sorry I meant MAN BUN. Or how bout Australia’s finest, Chris Hemsworth aka Thor and who can forget our good friend who you know is gonna be ok, as long as there’s a party in U.S.A.

THE STREET SWEEPER

The Side Swept Hairstyle was not only high maintenance in regards to styling but it was also one of the only hairstyles that from what I saw on the younger generation, was physically challenging as well. Because in order to keep your side swept fringe in the right position, it required you to have one of your ears attached to one of your shoulders, which was dependant on which way your fringe laid. Now I want you to take a second to visualise that so I know you are following along correctly. Lets go through a couple celebrities that has made this hairstyle popular, lets start with the obvious, Justin Beiber, who lets face it, he made it popular in the modern day. Niall, Louis & Harry who were obviously travelling in the right direction and once again, the wild one who just could not seem to get out of the onesies. Last but not least.

THE OVER GROWN

Now you can argue that every rock band in history had at least one member in their band that had over grown hair. By definition this is probably correct, but I feel that long, well managed and brushed frequently is not what I’m looking for hear. I’m talking about Harry in the early days of One Direction; he should get an extra point for being mentioned twice. Or how about Frankie Cocozza, from the UK X Factor who is in the picture and of course between extremely short hair and long hair your going to have to go through the over grown stage which has been worn by the one who has clearly stated the “We Can’t Stop”. So with all that being said, can there ever be just one haircut/hairstyle that can unanimously be voted as the number one worst haircut worn by men. Or can we just come to a decision that Miley Cyrus has worn these haircuts/hairstyles better than all men? I will let you decide, but don’t forget to send us a message on Facebook or Instagram if you have decided or have found a haircut even worse then the ones we have spoken about here. Facebook: Barbershop Instagram: @barbershopmag


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200 BY Chris Foster HAIR BY: CHRIS FOSTER PHOTOGRAPHY: ANDY KRUCZEK STYLING: CHRIS FOSTER MAKE-UP ARTIST: KEIKO MIZUNO The 200 collection was inspired by the bicentenary of the abolition of slavery. It explores the influences and the expressions from the African Diaspora. This collection celebrates liberty, freedom and equality. The collection also takes influence from the movie ‘300’, where the Spartans fought for freedom with absolute strength and determination from the Persian Horde.

38 Barber Shop Year 6 Issue 4






HAIR BY: CHRIS FOSTER PHOTOGRAPHY: ANDY KRUCZEK STYLING: CHRIS FOSTER MAKE-UP ARTIST: KEIKO MIZUNO The 200 collection was inspired by the bicentenary of the abolition of slavery. It explores the influences and the expressions from the African Diaspora. This collection celebrates liberty, freedom and equality. The collection also takes influence from the movie ‘300’, where the Spartans fought for freedom with absolute strength and determination from the Persian Horde.


2017 ABIA Special Recognition Award

FACE OF MAN

Each year the organisers of the ABIA’s, mocha publishing, recognise an outstanding salon or individual with a very special presentation, video tribute and trophy at the prestigious gala night. This year the 2017 ABIA Special Recognition Award went to “FACE OF MAN”, an absolute stand-out in the beauty industry.

2017 ABIA Special Recognition Award Face of Man with April Jones-Beauty Biz Magazine

With a mission to be the ultimate destination for men’s grooming, skincare, and fragrance needs, the well deserved recipient this year prides themselves on being industry experts when it comes to treating men and their skin.

treatments are offered including steam sauna, full body scrub, hot stone massage, laser hair removal, Deep Needle and LED Therapy, waxing, facials and more… all in a stress free environment where clients leave feeling all of their expectations are met.

Opening back in 1978, this establishment was Australia’s first-ever male grooming lounge run by its original owner Nancy Baliman, a true visionary of her time.

Over the past 40 years Face Of Man has continually evolved in services, investing in state-of-the-art technology, techniques, and products, ensuring it remains at the forefront of the industry, catering to the pressures of the contemporary gentleman.

After 30 years in the business Nancy thought it was time to hang up the waxing strips and sold the salon to a client who then owned the business for four years before it was sold on to its now proud owner Kylie Hayden. She too, like Nancy, possessed a very strong vision of what a men’s salon should be like in Sydney Fast forward to more current times and in June 2011 a relocation to much larger, custom built premises allowed an expansion to seven treatment rooms, a steam/sauna, shower and locker room in the classic style of a 1930’s gentlemen’s cigar lounge. Dedicated to male-only clientele, a wide variety of

Thanks to Kylie and her expert team, Face of Man remains the country’s leading destination for men’s skincare and grooming, with staff offering unrivalled expertise, personalised to suit every client’s individual needs. To excel in such a niche area with year on year growth is a testament to true passion and hard work, and is a tribute to Kylie Haden and The Face Of Man. Sponsored by Beauty Biz

44 Barber Shop Year 6 Issue 4


WHISTLER

COPPERSMITH

SWIFT

CONDOR RED

CONDOR

RAVEN

Barbers Chair

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Barbers Chair

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Trichology With Simone Lee

THE DRYING GAME

Hair is a very important feature of the human body, and plays a vital role for our image and visual perception by others. With the festive event season fast approaching, using a dryer to assist styling hair into a desired look for your barbershop guests is a common practice that may cause permanent damage to hair locks. For artists who strive to give their guests “the ultimate blowout” experience and style finish drying hair can certainly feel like a game of products, brushes and dryers. My key rule for successful completion of “the drying game” is to understand how to dry hair in a way that will prevent damage and keep hair looking and feeling great! Blow-drying enables hair form changes by altering the Hydrogen bonds within the hair. Water also modifies Hydrogen bonds, which is why on humid days many people complain about their hair frizzing and loosing style. A recent study published by the Department Of Dermatology and Institute Of Hair and Cosmetic Medicine at Yonsei University pertaining to the effects of applying hair dryer wind at varying temperatures to hair when compared to allowing hair to dry from wet at room temperature, found that the use of hair dryers at high temperatures held at close proximity to the hair resulted in cuticle damage, loss of moisture, dryness, brittleness and possible hair colour loss. The study further indicated that hair which is left to dry naturally is exposed to water for a greater period of time, and may potentially play a role in damage to the cell membrane complex of hair leading to the possibility that hair may become more damaged when exposed to water for longer periods of time than when controlled heat is applied to the hair from a blow dryer. Another earlier study from Gamez - Garcia, M Which featured in the Journal of Cosmetic Science expressed that Blow - drying causes a “flash drying” effect which removes the surface moisture of hair and also removes water that is bound to the hair, often referred to as “water of hydration”. The effect of flash drying can causes hair cuticles to become dried, rigid and brittle. When the hair flexes, the pressure may cause the hair cuticles to crack. Combing or styling hair that has experienced cuticle cracking may result in significant hair breakage. The best method of how to dry hair is still scientifically unclear, but there are several tips that can really help artist avoid hurting hair and reduce the side affects of hair dryer use. Hair Care Products - If you are frequently blowdrying your hair it is important to practice a hair health regime. Look for products with labels that state anti dryness, breakage, restorative, and repair, as these are a good starting point when deciding what brands to use. Activance Professional’s Purify Shampoo and Conditioner used in conjunction with one of their leave in treatments is where my hair health regime starts. In particular the Vitalise leave in treatment with anti-breakage properties. The powerful anti oxidants, Active restorative Rhodanide and soothing MSM are excellent ingredients to reduce hair stress by preventing de hydration and assisting with hair cuticle preservation. The

powerful bonding mechanisms of the micro Rhodanide molecule effectively allows the molecule to penetrate into every single part of the hair unit, improves the binding capability of water and moisture content up to 200 percent delivering restorative action. Using a deep conditioning mask weekly is also a great way to re hydrate stressed hair. Wet hair - remove excess water / moisture with a dry towel, this will reduce the time a hair dryer is used. Micro fiber towels soak up water very quickly and can have anti frizz properties. There is no need to rub the hair harshly to remove excess water. Before you commence the blow dry, the hair should be left to dry naturally in the towel for at least 10 - 15 minutes.

Thermal protector, and styling aids - Like a sunscreen provides a protective barrier to the skin from UV, heat protects work by forming a film over the hair to reduce heat damage. Water-soluble silicones often referred to as friendly silicones form a protective barrier over the hair, and can also fight off free radicals caused by UV rays. Thermal protectors are generally infused with vitamins and fatty acids, which provide and trap moisture and also promote a healthier bouncy blow dry. Most heat protectants will work on damp or dry hair making their use simple on days where your hair does not require shampooing. If you are using hair priming agents like a mouse or volumizer, apply these to the root area after the hair has been spritzed with the heat protector. Quality hair dryers and brushes - There is an array of hair dryers on the market that utilize new smart technology for accurate thermal regulation and stabilized airflow. Many top brands are collaborating with engineers of elite companies like Ferrari, to improve their products performance and is definitely some thing I look out for when researching what dryer to purchase. Nano titanium technology which assists in gentle heat application, direct airflow capabilities to reduce drying time and ionic technology that also reduces drying time by emitting charged particles top my list when deciding what dryer is likely to deliver the best hair health scenario when used. Metal hair brushes will hold the heat like a hot iron and can burn the cuticle, so it is very important to minimalize the blow-dry time if this is your brush of choice. Wooden pure bristle brushes will help illuminate frizz and provide good tension to the hair when manipulating the hair during drying. Brushes that are made from gentle boar bristles, re enforced ionic bristles, and eco friendly 100% sustainable wooden materials are my ideal choice. Technique - Keep the dryer at a distance of approximately 15cm away from the hair and the scalp when blow drying, as it is very easy to burn the scalp. A nozzle should be used at the end of your blow dryer to direct airflow affectively onto 46 Barber Shop Year 6 Issue 4

the hair cuticle instead of saturating all of the hair with heat. It is better to dry the hair using small sections at a time starting from the nape of the neck working upwards, this will help reduce the same hair being dried repeatedly. Always blow dry hair from the roots to the ends and do not use excessively hot temperatures when drying. The heat temperature from your dryer should not feel uncomfortable when applied to the rear of your hand. For finer hair the dryer should be set to a lower wind force, as the stronger wind will result in unwanted knots, tangles and friction. Keep your blow dryer moving constantly so that the heat will not be directed in the one area for too long. Hair sealants, oils and finishing products Ingredients should include those that promote hydration, help seal cuticle and protect the hair from UV Radiation. Hair oil formulations are refined and most are lightweight offering multiple benefits to your hair and scalp. A dry scalp can occur from repeated blow-drying Argon oil is a popular often referred to as “liquid gold” used to revitalize brittle hair and dehydrated scalps. Coconut Oil is another useful oil that can act as a heat protectant assists in repairing damaged hair. Apply a small quantity of oil to the hair especially when the oil is being used as a finishing aid, as oils can be greasy and always look at the ingredient list on the oil natural organic ingredients are best. Oils cosmetics may be combined with other ingredients like essential oils, or other chemicals. Its important to know your and understand what action your product ingredients will do for your hair and scalp health. Try to avoid using hot styling tools including your blow dryer at least twice a week - Allow your hair some rest and relaxation time, in order to restore and revitalize. Use this time to apply your treatment masks. www.simoneleecreative.com www.australianinstituteoftrichology.org


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STEVE CORTHINE

BLOG SPOT.

THERE ARE SEVEN DAYS IN A WEEK, AND “SOMEDAY” ISN’T ONE OF THEM Who gets in a rut? I think it’s easy to get in a rut… sometimes you just kind of exist. We go through our dreary work lives living one day to the next. You are working but not really ‘there’. One day becomes a week, one week becomes a month and then you have just wasted another year. I recently had a staff member ask me this question, “How do you stay so motivated?” How can I travel, get up early to go surfing, do the kids stuff and have time for 2 businesses and everything else? I was kind of in shock when he asked … Because I guess I just do. It did make me think and to be honest I have the most supportive life and business partner ever in Mel who does 90% of the kid stuff and if I’m honest 90% of the business stuff except the hair bit. So I guess that’s how! If you are the boss how do you get out of a rut? We all spend so much time and energy keeping our teams motivated and keeping them on targets, but if the salon owner is off their game, the whole damn thing can fall apart. Change is the only thing constant and if you don’t change your behaviour you will never get yourself out a negative cycle. You have to change the time you go to bed, change what you eat, start exercising, change the type of exercise you do and look after yourself first. Foster your important relationships and get rid of toxic ones. DRINK LESS (I’m just reminding myself). I think it’s hard as the boss but you have to be the shiny version of yourself for your staff - no ones likes a grumpy boss who is in a rut (that’s when you loose staff). CHANGE your patterns and behaviours. How can you tell if your staff are in a rut? I think if your team are not coming to work looking sharp, excited for the day and motivated to do good work, they are in a bit of a rut. If they are not hungry to excel and beat their best figures in home hair care, in rebooking they are just going through the motions. Might sound harsh but are

you paying them to be a C or B player? A Players are the profit centres off your salon, find them and support them. Can staff actually change their habits? This one rings true with me. The staff member that promises change, that says they want to change and maybe for 2 or 3 weeks after your chat they do… But how long does it last? My wife had a conversation with a psychologist who told her an alarming statistic: only 25% of people who think about making changes in their lives actually do anything. Why? Because change is scary and familiar is comfortable. The only way to make your life turn out differently is to DO THINGS DIFFERENTLY!! Learn new things, challenge yourself! And if you work for someone but you are in a rut ? Why? Do you like your job? I’m not saying quit. Do you respect your boss? Do they challenge you? They pay you and to be honest you should want to work harder and smarter so you can increase your earnings. If you think you are in a rut, and you like your job, it’s time to take action. YESTERDAY YOU SAID TOMORROW Find the good in the situation Beware of your negative thoughts… don’t let them weigh you down. Try and find the good in the situation, whatever situation you’re in. Appreciate what you have I see so many instagram or Facebook posts saying grateful, blessed etc… but really look at what you have, and realise that we are all lucky. We live in Australia, the sun shines every day, you have fresh food and water and free health care, and your have a job, compared to 90% of the world you are filthy rich! Appreciate your friends and family and take a minute to actually be grateful for the good things in life. Don’t compare yourself to others, EVER. 48 Barber Shop Year 6 Issue 4

Listen to podcasts One of the best ways to get yourself out of a rut is listening to a podcast. There are loads of people ready to give you useful chats to motivate you out of your current space, and you can listen on the bus or in the car on the way to work - Ted talks, Mindset zone and Stuff to blow your Mind are just a few. Slow down I think rather than going at hundred miles an hour, slow it down. Think, connect with yourself, enjoy the moment, enjoy the process and don’t do the head miles about what could happen. Enjoy the small things Simplify your life. ENJOY the sunrise, the ocean, the bird that lands on the ledge, the flowers in the garden. I’m not religious but I love life. A great mate of mine had some personal tragedies that could have set him back years, but I have loved watch him transform adversary into the best bucket list ever and slowly tick them off. Life is short, enjoy it. Find your passion Whether it’s painting hair, surfing or exercising, Do shit you like. Travel, volunteer, be the best parent you can be. Love what you do and do what you love. Spend time with like minded Don’t please people! Spend time with people that have similar thought processes as you, those that laugh and enjoy life. That’s my thing, I can’t be bothered to hang with people that do my head in and are Debbie Downers. All of my friends are engaged with life and motivated to live well and enjoy themselves, and these are the people I choose to surround myself with. They support me and I support them and together we are all better! BIG LOVE , STEVIE


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PAUL FRASCA

BLOG SPOT.

YOU HAVE THE PONY POWER As I write this column, I’ve just finished an incredible event in Brisbane where 30 Year 12 Students at Redeemer Lutheran College chose to lob their ponytails off for charity. Not only did they sacrifice their beautiful hair, but these young women also banded together to raise more than $8,000 for their chosen charities Love Your Sister and Daughters of Cambodia. Sustainable Salons Australia collects ponytails from salons all over Australia and redirects them to various charitable organisations such as Variety, The Children’s Charity to make wigs for Aussies with cancer and alopecia areata. Since SSA launched in 2015, this has become one of our most embraced programs – we’ve collected more than 10,000 ponytails! Of course, this is a nice thing to do, but people often ask how this is considered ‘sustainability’. Are we off-brand at SSA? The opposite! Before SSA, I was a salon hairdresser for 20 years, and do you know how many ponytails I carefully cut off to donate for charitable wigs in that time? Zero. Zip. Not one! No one ever told me that other people could actually benefit from my clients’ ponytails. I mean, they clearly didn’t want or need them anymore! Will.i.am said “Waste isn’t waste until we waste it”… and that’s it in a nutshell. At a very simple level, when dumped in landfill, valuable ponytails become wasted

resources that someone who needs them now can’t access. When we dig deeper, this program is about sacrificing something we have in excess to fill another’s basic need (equal distribution of resources… ultimate sustainability!). When we help lift someone to a better place, we’re creating a community where every person is an active, confident, contributing member… now imagine how strong that community’s future looks. When we first approached the ponytail donation process, there was not even half the amount of hair needed coming through to the correct channels. Variety needs at least 4,000 ponytails each year to make enough wigs… and this is just for the kids! When you add the number of adults in need, well, that makes this awareness even more vital. It takes 20 ponytails to make just one wig, so every ponytail matters. Here are a few tips for ensuring each ponytail is correct when sending to SSA: • Ponytails must be at least 20cm long from the hair tie at the top to the ends. • We take them coloured or uncoloured! However, children’s wigs require minimum 35cm of virgin hair; so if you have a willing donor with amazing natural, long hair, why not encourage them to go a few centimetres shorter? • Ponytails less than 35cm and coloured are sent to charitable wig-makers who grade the ponytails according to the wig requirements they have at the time. • Ensure the ponytails are clean, dry and 50 Barber Shop Year 6 Issue 4

secured tightly at the top, plaited, then secured tightly at the bottom. It’s really that simple! A couple of inspiring young women at an event we did earlier in the year at Sydney’s Wenona School proudly stood in front of their peers and said: “It’s easy for us to make this huge difference because we don’t have to do anything to grow our hair, it just happens. We may end up with short bobs, but our hair will grow back. For many going through treatment, it may not for a long while and that can affect their self esteem.” This is what makes a ponytail donor so special, and this is why SSA celebrates them whole-heartedly, often and publically. You and your clients hold an incredible power to improve the life of someone who is going through something they didn’t ask for, don’t deserve and can’t control… you guys have pony power! You don’t need to be in an SSA serviceable area to get involved! You just need your scissors, a willing client, a few hair ties, an envelope and a stamp… then head to Facebook @SustainableSalonsAustralia for the address to send them to! If you’d like to present your client with a donor certificate, please include their name and your salon’s return mailing address with the ponytails. www.sustainablesalons.com.au


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6 Sins Made on Social Media & What You Can Do to Avoid Them BY TAHLIA SHORTER

Hair Salon and Barbershop owners are notorious for being busy, run off their feet and wearing all the hats the business needs to keep afloat. It’s no surprise that when you’re trying to get everything done, your social media feed may pay the price. While it may seem that anyone can do social media (and to some extent this is true), there are a few things you can do make sure it isn’t obvious that you may not quite be ‘all over it’. Social media can truly make or break a brand, so it’s extremely crucial to remember that it must not only be handled with care, but handled professionally. Here are 6 of the top mistakes made on social media, and how you can easily avoid them while developing a can’t-resist-must-follow social media strategy for your shop.

LAZY SCREEN SHOTS

The last thing you want your audience to think when it comes to your shop and your brand is that you’re not putting in any effort. You have enough on your plate running your business, so it’s a given that if you’re in charge of socials, no doubt you’ll do most of it from the comfort of your smartphone - on the go. Don’t make the mistake of screenshotting something you see and then posting that exact snapshot from your phone’s gallery into your socials. To put it bluntly, you don’t want to appear unprofessional with the icons that sit at the top of your screen – you know what we’re talking about…battery life, WIFI connection, the time of day, and oh yes…you’re with OPTUS! Most phones have edit features that pop up as soon as you take a screenshot. The latest Apple iOS and Samsung software offers the ability to crop features to the shape and size you need. Get rid of those extra bits you don’t need your audience seeing. Cop it! There really is no excuse.

BRANDED SHARES

One of the greatest things about social media is the ability to not only keep track of other shops and see what they’re doing to engage with their audiences, but connecting with those businesses and watching for those amazing shots they keep putting up! Platforms like Instagram allow you to share any images you think might be a great addition to your viewers, but watch out for any that have their brands plastered all over the picture. This can include photos of other people’s staff or clients, and of course the name of the shop

in the background. It’s nice to share posts, it tells others that you are part of a community, but limit these because you don’t want to give the impression that the photo is yours. You will have to give credit where credit is due, and unless the shares are from a related shop, keep in mind you’ll be sharing the image of a competitor.

COLLAGE APPS

There are so many great and amazing apps out there to put a collection of photos together in one image, and they work beautifully for personal posts, but what about for your salon? For a business, collages look slightly inelegant, especially when one collaged image sits uncomfortably among a group of beautiful onephoto posts on your account. Try not to focus so much on quantity; instead, look at the quality. Post the one image that speaks a thousand words. You’ll find your reach and engagement will be three-fold when it comes to beautiful imagery that is high-quality, bright with colour, and aimed to stand out from the crowd. When you want to use more than one picture to tell a story, use Instagram’s multiple upload option with swipe action instead. If you must use a collage app, ensure you spend the extra couple dollars upgrading from the free to the premium version to avoid having the app’s watermark sit at the bottom of it. It’s like using a professional photographer’s photo; pay to get the right version, or risk looking like you can’t afford to buy it.

SAME-SAME OVER AGAIN

Try to get out of the habit of using the same style of images over again – shots of your clients’ finished hair from the back. Ensure you post pictures of your clients’ faces as well as their hair, perhaps include testimonials within the text of the post. Other ideas include your staff, behind the scenes, even how-to or shop tour videos.

52 Barber Shop Year 6 Issue 4


While we’re talking photographs, take a look at some of your favourite Instagram accounts. What is it that you notice most? It’s probably the consistent quality of imagery. To get noticed, to look professional and to have people engaging, the one thing you really need to take focus on is your image quality. Invest in quality lighting, branded backdrops and a good camera (an iPhone will do the trick if you have everything else right).

just referring them to call you. The idea of social media is to be – you guessed it – social! If you’ve posted an amazing fade or clipper art piece you’ve created with a client, and someone asks if this is possible say on blonde hair for example…, answer them directly and publicly. Chances are someone else was wondering the same thing, and if you can’t answer them without getting them into the premises for a consult, say that.

Posting the same images that are of low quality makes for a monotonous account, so put in the effort to create imaginative and amazing photography!

Not only will you be engaging with someone who could potentially call in to your shop without your prompting, but you will be seen to be highly knowledgeable about your industry and that you care for people to get the right information or at least you care enough to encourage a consultation so you can provide the right advice.

POOR GRAMMAR AND SPELLING

It’s the little things that count too, and it looks unprofessional when your apostrophes are in the wrong place, commas are non-existent, you’re shortening words by leaving out vowels, and other words are being misspelled. Don’t forget to use Australian spelling too - ‘s’ instead of ‘z’ for words like ‘specialise’ (not ‘specialize’). Don’t skimp out on your grammar and spelling, because it simply looks like you’re lacking in professionalism. Accompany your brilliant photographs with brilliant wording.

NOT ENGAGING WITH AUDIENCES

The biggest, biggest sin of them of all is not responding to your audience’s enquiries and

Don’t make the social media blunders that many other salons and barbershops make. Learn from others and hit the ground running by avoiding them and ensuring your posts are top notch. If you find yourself with limited time or knowledge to dedicate to your social media platforms, services at social media agencies can assist with your strategies and take over the responsibility altogether. Scene It Social provides tailored social media packages to the hair and beauty industry, and can work with you to make your social media content irresistible. They can be easily contacted on 0413 546 493 or visit sceneitsocial.com.au

53 Barber Shop Year 6 Issue 4


Words and Actions… true impacts! BY KELLY KENT

What is in a word? Sticks and Stones will break my bones but names will never hurt me! An old saying and indicative of different times. How we have all moved forward from this statement...but have we? I think I need to make it clear that I love this industry and the life I have lead because of it. I love the characters in it and all they offer. We are already in the industry, we are converts so why is it we are all struggling to get staff?

I feel like this is all our industry is talking about now...how hard it is to get staff! Apprentices and Seniors and I and many others have written so much on it! How to write an advertisement, where to advertise, how to interview, what to offer, training and incentives…. OMG the list goes on and on... but still the conversation seems to revolve around how hard it is to get staff and where do you get them from? So here are some more of my thoughts and some research that I have done and while I am a hairdresser, the same rules apply for barber shops, beauty salons etc! Apply these ideas to what is relavant to you and I feel you will be taking a step in the rihgt direction! Let’s start with WORDS… And I am going to start at the beginning...

apprentices. Tell me what is it that you hear from others about the way that apprentices are treated? If you were as empowered as young people are today and by that I don’t mean entitled; I mean willing to respect yourself and the way that others treat you, would a hairdressing or barber apprenticeship be your first choice of occupation? What exactly are the redeeming features of an apprenticeship? The hours, the pay, the expectations, the way you are spoken to or the title that you get? Interesting when you look at this as an outsider. I’ll cover a few of those things: yes, we pay to train people and they get to keep their education for life. Don’t forget that we get to use what we teach them along the way to create our income too; it’s not a one-way street. Yes, if they went to university, they would end up with HECS debt and have to get a part time job to support 54 Barber Shop Year 6 Issue 4

themselves. In all likelihood now at the end of their university qualification, they are regarded highly by others but would likely only get paid what a tradesperson does and find getting a job difficult - they certainly start at the bottom. On the topic of education, I think we are aligned in terms of its importance however the cost is HIGH! And most are not making enough profit to pay that cost. The time to train them yourself is hard to find as we are short staffed; we now have to pay for people to attend training as well as the cost of the course and the cost of not having that person in the salon! The cost is high! However completely necessary...what to do? INCREASE YOUR CHARGES! cont’d on page 56


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cont’d from page 54 Hours have always been interesting however there are so many other occupations where the hours are worse and they are still getting people lining up to do those jobs! Let’s look at essential services like Police, Fire and Ambulance Services. There are applications a mile long and they work 24/7, so I think if other expectations aligned, hours are not our problem. I believe that penalty rates should apply for after hours and for weekends as this is an incentive for people to work but how do you pay these higher rates when you wages % is already enormous? INCREASE YOUR CHARGES! The expectations….is this a question that you ask your applicants? What is it that you expect to be doing in your first year? I bet you do! What do they say? I ALWAYS get - “Oh, I know most of the time I will be cleaning and maybe washing hair!” How incredibly inspiring! Hold me back, I just want to do an apprenticeship! I have completely changed the way that we train our apprentices…. don’t worry I still can’t get any…. However, this has helped me keep the odd jewels that we do get. In the first week, we have them blow-drying, putting colours on each other or models, dolls heads hair up and foils and yes …..they still clean and wash hair. The reason they come to us is to be a hairdresser and the same would apply to barbers is that they are creative and they want to play not clean the toilet! I know all that stuff has to be done but an apprentice is a student of our craft not a slave. Clive Allwright recently posted regarding the difference between a salon “tea and tidy” helper as opposed to an apprentice - it was gold! Oh, I know that we all did I t and that our training was like being in the salt mines, but we have to change if we want quality applicants ….or any for that matter! We as a whole, have to entice people back to this industry- it’s up to us all. The title: OK, my least favourite title is “the junior” or “my junior”. OMG, how inspiring is that title and I hear so many hairdressers, managers, trainers and salon owners still using that terminology! What’s in a word? What is in a title? A LOT! In fact, EVERYTHING! First years; shit-kicker; yep I got told that one only yesterday and to be honest that is what inspired this whole article. Please… whatever title you use in your salon, ensure it’s motivating or describes the task/position. We use ‘Assistant’ as without their assistance I cannot do my job. We explain frequently that they are the most important part of the team - the linchpin. I also feel at times that our basic manners fade in relation to these people, as well as the tone of our voice and even the frustration in our requests. Yes, they can be frustrating as they do not intrinsically know what to do and how to do it. Yes, you have told them what feels like a million times what to do and how to do it and maybe you have even created lists but guess what…… that-is-your-job! It’s everyone in the salon’s job. In my salon, I expect that anyone working on you is introduced to you. If that person is an apprentice, they would be introduced this way… “Kelly (client), this is Alex (apprentice); she is my Assistant and she is going to wash your hair for you today. Alex, can you please use the blah blah (range) and do XX treatment? Thanks!” I also thank the Assistant when my client returns. Now you may do this already and if you do, good on you, but we are not the “norm” it seems when you are talking to young ones. Sad but true.

I know running a business is hard work, frustrating at times and tiring. You get jaded as sometimes you haven’t had the right team and things haven’t worked out but if we want more people to come into our industry I think we really need to clean up our act. We need to move into this decade and get our heads around what these kids think about; what motivates them and create roles around those expectations that still work for our business. It can be done! Employing (staff) today has to be a two-way street. All of this said, I am a tough old bird! I am not a pushover; however I am fair – there is one rule that everyone follows. I am clear and you know where you stand. I explain my decisions, not justify them, and the impact on the business as a whole. I live by my rules too. When you work for me, you get rewarded with training, experience as well as financially and if you leave and apply in another salon in our area, you get the pick of the jobs. Let’s be honest; it’s not too hard to get a job in hairdressing anywhere these days!!!! Enough of words: what about our ACTIONS??? Most salons are understaffed. Most salons can’t get staff - senior or apprentices. Most owners are the most productive people in their salon and most salon owners are terrified to rock the boat! Most owners are so worried that their team will leave if they apply any pressure on them, that in essence this means that although you may have the title of owning the salon and all the privileges that go along with that - the stress, bills and all the other privileges (yes, I am being sarcastic!), your team is running your salon, not you! Sorry …..but this is often the case. What do I mean? Again, if we look at this group of people we are trying to encourage to come into our industry and what their expectations are, they expect FAIRNESS! Yep…. Fairness. This means that team members behave as a team, which means one in all in! A team helps each other out not when they feel like it but all of the time! Of course, you say...so what do I mean? The term ‘team’ runs off our tongues easily but we all know they are way harder to create. In so many salons that I visit, senior hairdressers are above it all. They don’t clean, they don’t help each other out, they don’t shampoo, they don’t do hair-up, they don’t retail, they just DON’T! WTF? I don’t do ‘I don’t’! I do ‘This is what the salon and the clients want, need and expect’ and not just my clients; every client in the salon. It’s about the salon and the team, not an individual! 56 Barber Shop Year 6 Issue 4

I let my team know and I am very clear that everyone is responsible for every task in the salon. I know that the seniors create the income to employ auxiliary staff, however without those people, apprentices, tea and tidies and receptionists, their job is a hell of a lot harder and they cannot be as successful or productive. So, one in all in. Everyone makes coffee, everyone sweeps the floor, everyone washes hair, everyone goes to the shops, everyone does tasks, everyone does morning and evening jobs because everyone is employed to make our salon the best and it takes more than great hair to create a successful business and team. I make my team uncomfortable (that’s probably why it’s small, lol!) Everyone wants to know what their limits are and how far can they push it and this includes salon owners. By this I mean it’s not ok to have a “bad day”; one where you just can’t be bothered. That’s just not ok. The clients come expecting the best and that’s what they pay for; that’s what they deserve! We all have “life” happening, but that shouldn’t impact on clients or other team members. I expect my team to perform every day to the best of their ability. Happy for them to have a dummy spit out the back but then walk out with a smile on their dial and do all that they can for the person in their chair. What I am saying is that is up to each and every one of us to make our industry more attractive. Think about it...if you had your time again with the choices kids have today, would you be hairdressing? I would! I love it! Put yourself in their shoes and before you say it...they will never do the same until they own a salon: why should they? We need to get back to the days when we could pick and choose applicants, when this industry was an industry of choice, inspiration and creativity, when young people wanted to be a hairdresser! The career you could take anywhere. Trade well in the lead up to Christmas. For anyone wanting to overhaul the salon, make more money and make owning a salon easier, January is a great time to set some goals for the year ahead. Jump onto www.craniumconcepts. com.au and see if there is something there to help you out. All of my contact details are there too. Merry Christmas have a happy and safe New Year my friends xox


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While soft goods retailers are shuttering stores in record numbers, a cultural resurgence of men’s grooming, estimated to reach $26B by 2020 in the U.S., has barbers, brokers and landlords lining up to get their cut. “You don’t just look better — you feel better too,” said Carlos Aguilar, a 28-year-old restaurant manager in Houston. He has a standing appointment with his barber every two weeks, spending about $US60 and 45 minutes each visit. “It’s something special. I know when I go on a Thursday afternoon it’s going to be a good weekend. You’re ready.” Aguilar is part of a trend sweeping the U.S. and the world! There was a 23% decrease in barbershops across the country from 1992 to 2012, according to census data. Then there was an uptick in 2013. Now there is a boom. State licensing boards make tracking the numbers difficult, but National Association of Barber Boards of America Executive Officer Charles Kirkpatrick estimates the growth at roughly 10%, on par with the number of licensed barbers in the last two years. Barbering is the fastest-growing profession in the U.S. “For landlords, it’s a no-brainer. They want to fill these retail vacancies with new concepts,” Cushman & Wakefield Vice President of Retail Research Garrick Brown said. “One of the bright spots for retail has been health and beauty.” Landlords love barbershops and shave shops because they see the industry as exempt from competition from e-commerce. There is no way to get a haircut online.


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