Beauty Biz The Essential Business Guide for Salons and Spas
Year 10 Issue 1
Recognising the need to respond to a market place that is no longer monopolised by medical.
Beauty Biz
Make Up By Alana Mevissen, 2016 ABIA Make Up Artist of the Year
FO O R PEN ON EN LI TR NE Y
ABIA
Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017
2017 CATEGORIES Beauty Therapist of the Year Make Up Artist of the Year
Best Tanning Salon/Service of the Year Best Customer Care Award
NEW STATE CATEGORIES
Best Marketing Award Best Salon Training Award
AUSTRALIAN & STATE SALON AWARDS Salons/Spas will enter in their State Category for:
State Salon/Spa Of the Year
State Salon/Spa Of the Year
(4 Treatment Rooms or Less)
(5 Treatment Rooms or More)
NSW/ACT | VIC/TAS/SA | QLD | WA/NT Based on judging scores, the 2 Australian Winners will be announced from the State Winners on the Gala Night.
Salon Team of the Year Best Men’s Grooming Service/Salon Hall of Fame (Nominated) Salon Manager/Coordinator of the Year Business Director Owner of the Year Educator of the Year (Individual) Educator of the Year (Organisation) Wholesaler of the Year (Voted) Cosmetic Tattooist of the Year
IMPORTANT DATES CLOSING DATE FOR ENTRIES Monday 17th April 2017
FINALISTS ANNOUNCED Monday 5th June 2017
GALA AWARDS DINNER Sunday 27th August 2017 Dockside Pavilion, Sydney
THE BENCHMARK OF BUSINESS EXCELLENCE
www.australianbeautyindustryawards.com.au by
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ON THE COVER 10 Alma Beauty – Spectrum Science & Beauty
CON TENTS
REGULARS 08 Editors Letter 12-17 Industry News 46-47 Beauty Shop 48 Tanning 50 Make Up
FEATURE 18-20 Remove rebuild Protect and Maintain - DMK 22 From Business to Beauty 24 Raising the bar in Non-Surgical Skin Rejuvenation
DERMAL 26 Skinternational Trends – European Congresses Edition By Andrew R. Christie 28 Exfoliation & Hydroxy Acids By Daniel Rubenstein 30 Exotic Butter & Oils from around the World By Nicole O’Sullivan
MEDI & AESTHETICS 32 Questions for your Cosmetic Injector By April Jones 34 2017 Non Surgical Symposium 36 Wounds & the normal healing process By Bonnie Fraser
HEALTH 38 Skin Defence Over 45 By Anni Diamond 40 Why Your Gut may be the Answer to those Breakouts By Yoko Inoue
SPA PROFILE 42 Sumptuous Surounds, Luxurious Treatments & Premium Products
PROFILE 44 Crushing on Curls
NAILS 52 Behind the Brand of Jessica Cosmetics 54 Step By Step for Dreamy Rose By Caroline Morgan
BUSINESS 56 Set your Goals and make them happen for 2017 By Tracey DeTert 58 Get acquainted with Snapchat By Susan Patel 60 Seven Steps to a Wow-Worthy Client Consultation By Jay Chapman
BLOG SPOT 62 Happy Sparkling 2017 By Julie Cross 63 For the Love of Lashes By Julia Mann 64 Social Media & Why it’s Perfect for Make Up Artists by Mia Connor
Distributed by Spectrum Science & Beauty | 1300 766 198 sales@spectrumsciencebeauty.com.au | www.spectrumsciencebeauty.com.au
66 Watching the Industry Boom By Caroline Morgan
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Building confidence from the outside in
Beauty Biz PUBLISHER
Linda Woodhead linda@mochapublishing.com.au
EDITOR
Editors Editors Note
April Jones april@mochapublishing.com.au
ADVERTISING MANAGER Nina Barbara nina@mochapublishing.com.au
ART DIRECTOR
Kellie Woodhead kellie@mochapublishing.com.au
ADMINISTRATION
Jess Richmond jess@mochapublishing.com.au
CONTRIBUTORS April Jones Andrew R. Christie Daniel Rubenstein Nicole O’Sullivan Bonnie Fraser Anni Diamond Yoko Inoue Caroline Morgan Tracey DeTert Susan Patel Jay Chapman Julie Cross Julia Mann Mia Connor
OFFICE
PO BOX 252 Helensvale Plaza Qld 4212 P: 07 5580 5155 mail@mochapublishing.com.au www.mochapublishing.com.au
DISTRIBUTION
Australia Post - Print Post 100005498
PRINTING APN
PUBLISHED BY
It’s so crazy to be saying ‘Welcome to 2017’ when I only just seemed to get my head around it being 2016! We return to writing and rewriting the date, and wondering where the last 17 years of a new decade has gone. If you are anything like myself, or in my age group (thirty-forty-something!) then the 1990’s merely seemed like a few years ago, certainly not 25 years ago! As the New Year is ushered in we are almost forced to reassess our businesses and direction, plan for the future, tweak the good and throw out the bad. ‘Wow’ consultations, business planning and Snapchat are a few of the key areas we have covered out to kick start your improvement plans and we are lucky enough to have been joined by some new contributors and business experts. Some of my favourite people who write for and bring the magazine to life are the ‘front line’ contributors, the ones that are still out there in their salons and beauty businesses, growing, learning and then unselfishly sharing. The very talented Julia Mann from Lash Tribe is sure to give you a chuckle as she reveals her work-life balance with 2 small children and a thriving business. I agree the struggle is real after spending the last couple of years completing nursing school and running a business, all the while attempting to maintain a semblance of grooming and keep a couple of small people alive. When I finally do write my biography, wine and chocolate will certainly feature in the acknowledgement preface! One of the features I really enjoyed receiving and reading this month was the article on gut health and I hope you will too: more and more we are guided and driven towards the holistic nature of inner health and beauty and the correlation between the two. I think that this will be an area we will see more of in 2017 and predict a return to beauty as a lifestyle as opposed to a one stop treatment or product. Nicole O Sullivan our contributing herbalist provides us with more information and studies on wildcrafted organics and it was entertaining to learn more about how she lives this in her own life when I met with her over Christmas: The latest project for her and her partner in country NSW is the rearing of a 100 or so sheep which is a little more organic than she planned for but certainly immersing her in farm life after living the buzz of her Bondi skincare stores!
mocha publishing
PUBLISHERS OF
HAIR BIZ, Beauty Biz & Barber Shop Beauty Biz is published six times a year by mocha publishing ABN 65 091 846 189 No Part of the publication may be reproduced in any manner or form without written permission. Beauty Biz does not accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies, original artwork or other material. The views expressed in Beauty Biz are not necessarily those of the publisher. No responsibility will be accepted if the publication is delayed or prevented by factors beyong the control of the publisher. No responsibility will be accepted for errors in copy, or for any loss arising from the failure of an advertisement or any part thereof to appear. © 2017 mocha publishing All rights reserved.
And finally it’s that time of the year once again, and the ABIA Awards are open for business and entries. There are a few new and changed categories this year so be sure to check out the information and conditions and all entries are to be received online this year. The 2017 event promises to be yet again an outstanding industry date following on from the Beauty Expo, which is back at Darling Harbour this year. Here’s to a beautiful 2017!
April April Jones Editor
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Refectocil Purple An intense and glowing colour, especially made for women with light brown, grey or blonde eyelashes. Gives a stunning appearance which is more intense depending on the lightness of the hair.
Refectocil Red An intense hue specially designed to perfectly match eyebrows and eyelashes to a wide variety of red hair colours. Enhance any daring red look in a captivating way.
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COVER STORY
Recognising the need to respond to a market place that is no longer monopolised by medical. Finally a phenomenal range of clinically proven equipment from a globally renowned brand at a price point that Beauty can afford. For the first time Beauty Therapists and Dermal therapists can be confident of obtaining the results that will change their customers lives while at the same time producing an impressive return on investment. This never before seen in Australia equipment is from Alma Beauty, the Inventors of the globally renown SHR Technology, and it is taking the beauty industry by storm. Beauty Biz sits down with Managing Director Ben Skeggs. “The feedback we are getting from our industry partners has been overwhelming. It is clear that beauty has been waiting for industry leaders like Alma to manufacture a product range that delivers on all levels of expectation without the unrealistic price tags�. Says Ben Quality, proven reliability and clinical proven equipment are paramount when investing your hard earned dollar and up until now ticking all these boxes has come at a cost that realistically makes it almost impossible to make a return on investment! Alma Beauty has purely recognised the need to respond to a market place that is no longer monopolised by medical. The new Alma Beauty equipment Leverages off the clinically proven technology that has been predominantly utilised by the medical profession. The main focus of this equipment launch has been all about delivering the same level of quality and technology at a price point that for beauty, until now, has been out of reach. At Spectrum we know how passionate our clients are about the beauty industry and wanting to make a real change in their customer’s lives and the Alma Beauty equipment range has to be one of the most exciting things to enter into the Beauty industry to date. Alma specifically designed this equipment range of patented technology for the Beauty industry who are 10
Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 1
passionate about going beyond their customers’ expectations and our Spectrum Team are ecstatic to be a part of it.
SHR HAS TAKEN THE MARKET BY STORM SO WE WANTED TO FIND OUT WHAT SHR IS AND HOW IT WORKS?
available today and is backed by a number of clinical studies. Three technologies combined (SHR, InMotion and GlactialTech Cooling) allow beauty and medical clinics can treat all skin tones and a wide range of hair types all year round (365 days a year).
SHR is becoming a very common term globally when people speak about hair removal technology. Alma Lasers are the inventors of SHR and have this technology patented and trademarked. Spectrum is very proud to have the exclusive rights to supply this beauty technology and use the SHR trademark in Australia. It is a huge competitive advantage to Spectrum customers who have purchased SHR technology from Spectrum because of the quality of treatments and being able to use the globally renowned SHR trademark in their marketing.
IPL Machine – Alma Rejuve The Alma Rejuve IPL Machine is an effective skin rejuvenation system treating: pigmentation, vascular, skin rejuvenation, tightening and contouring of body/face and hair removal. The Rejuve is as effective as laser treatments, and comes with the safety, versatility and low-cost of pulsed light. An option to add Alma’s patented SHR technology is available.
SO HOW EXACTLY DOES THIS TECHNOLOGY WORK?
Body and Face Contouring Machine – Alma Reform The Alma Reform is today’s most effective, long term solution for the contouring and tightening of body and face with 10 years clinically proven effectiveness. Treatments include body contouring, skin tightening, cellulite reduction, wrinkles, fine lines, skin tone and laxity.
SHR gradually heats the dermis to a temperature that is able to effectively damage hair follicles and also prevent re-growth of the hair follicles, while very importantly avoiding injury to the surrounding tissue. With Super Hair Removal the hair follicles do not get exposed to one single pulse of high energy because using a single pulse of high energy can have the risk of injuring the skin. Instead the follicle receives multiple, short, and low energy pulses accumulating enough energy to damage the hair follicle. With the equipment supplied from Spectrum parameters are provided to ensure the correct accumulated energy resulting in the most effective results. Using a high repetition rate short pulses are delivered deep into the dermis, and achieve high average power which results in therapeutically effective build-up of heat, and best of all virtually no pain for the patient. An In-Motion method is used with SHR by moving the handpiece multiple times over the area being treated to ensure full coverage of the treated area. Grid templates are used to ensure the most effective results. Glacial Tech cooling is used via a sapphire tip preventing superficial burns and facilitating virtually painless but very effective hair removal. Laser Hair Removal Machine (SHR) – Alma Remove The Alma Remove SHR Laser Hair Removal Machine offered by Spectrum offers the safest, most effective laser hair removal solution
Rejuvenation - Alma Reboost The Alma Reboost offers pixel pen, acoustic oscillation and serum infusion as an advanced skin rejuvenation solution with instant result. Extensive laboratory testing has proven the ability of Reboost technology to deliver active ingredients deep beyond the skin barrier and has shown positive change in skin appearance following each treatment. We would highly recommend you to take a look at the Alma line to take advantage of the major growth that is expected in skin rejuvenation and body contouring in the Australian market Distributed by Spectrum Science & Beauty 1300 766 198 sales@spectrumsciencebeauty.com.au www.spectrumsciencebeauty.com.au www.almabeauty.com.au
“It is clear that beauty has been waiting for industry leaders like Alma to manufacture a product range that delivers on all levels of expectation without the unrealistic price tags” Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 1
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IND US TRY NEWS
WORLD SPA & WELLNESS AWARDS 2017 GET SET TO CELEBRATE! On Sunday 26 February, the beauty and wellness industry’s very finest will be celebrated at the World Spa & Wellness Awards 2017, which take place at a black-tie gala dinner in Tobacco Dock, London. Launched in 2012 to recognise and reward the outstanding work carried out by spas across the globe, the awards honour hotel and resort spas in regions including Western Europe and Scandinavia, Eastern Europe, the Middle East and North Africa, North and South America and Asia and Australasia. In 2015, the Worldwide Health & Wellness Destination of the Year category was added, to recognise pioneering wellness properties around the world.
PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY RETURNS TO LONDON
WORLD SPA & WELLNESS AWARDS 2017 GET SET TO CELEBRATE!
Professional Beauty London will return to the ExCel centre on 26-27 February, bringing more than 800 brands, live shows, seminars and exciting new features to a dedicated crowd of beauty professionals. The one-stop shop for all things beauty, spa and nails, this year’s show promises to be bigger and better than ever. The perfect place to discover the latest innovations in products and services, while learning more about upcoming trends and techniques, Professional Beauty London is the flagship show of the Professional Beauty portfolio and is packed full of top brands, inspiring ideas, networking opportunities and business prospects. Brands already confirmed for the 2017 show include makeup big hitters Jane Iredale, Krylolan, Mii and NYX, as well as skincare giants Caudalie, Decleor, Dermalogica, Elemis, Environ, Eve Taylor, Guinot and Thalgo. They’ll be joined by hundreds of other brands, with special show offers, new launches and brand ambassadors all on hand to make it a retail experience not to be missed. 12
Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 1
On Sunday 26 February, the beauty and wellness industry’s very finest will be celebrated at the World Spa & Wellness Awards 2017, which take place at a blacktie gala dinner in Tobacco Dock, London. Launched in 2012 to recognise and reward the outstanding work carried out by spas across the globe, the awards honour hotel and resort spas in regions including Western Europe and Scandinavia, Eastern Europe, the Middle East and North Africa, North and South America and Asia and Australasia. In 2015, the Worldwide Health & Wellness Destination of the Year category was added, to recognise pioneering wellness properties around the world.
INDUSTRY LEADER AND PIONEER IN COSMETIC TATTOOING AND EDUCATION JOINS DERMAPENWORLD™ DermapenWorld™ is pleased to announce the latest member to their team of global education specialists. With the recent release of the Dermapen TattOff™ and TattOn, there was a need to introduce a “Global Trainer” that is able to educate the market on these innovative products. DermapenWorld is pleased to announce the latest member to our team of global education specialists: It’s the legendary industry expert Val Glover-Hovan. Stene Marshall, CEO of DermapenWorld stated, “As the market leaders, DermapenWorld’s mission is to support our Dermapen™ Family innovations with the best education and training of both our distributors and their customers, with the release of the Dermapen TattOff/ TattOn, we knew that only the best would do. We are very pleased to secure the services of Val Glover-Hovan and believe this to be a perfect compliment to our existing training department which is receiving such great feedback throughout the world.” Val joins DermapenWorld’s medical global trainer Andrew R. Christie as a DermapenWorld global expert for TattOff/TattOn working with our 60+ international distributors.
Training tours will be announced through Authorized Dermapen Distributors and at the official company website at www.DermapenWorld.com.
PAID ADS ARE COMING TO INSTAGRAM STORIES It may not come as a surprise that Instagram has announced the launch of paid ads on its Stories feature. The roll out marks the brand’s first foray into full screen ads that will run as 15 second videos or photos that last for five seconds. Both are instantly skippable. The company announced yesterday that it will be testing the ads with around 30 global advertisers including Airbnb, Netflix, Maybelline New York and Qantas. According to AdNews, pairing with a wide variety of brands will allow Instagram to identify which categories get the best results using the Stories’ ad unit. Keeping in line with when they launched ads on their main feed, Instagram will just be offering Stories ads based around reach objective (i.e. advertisers looking to reach a certain amount of women living in Australia aged between 18-30, for example) but will soon expand that to other outcomes. This will include statistics on user action like swiping up to visit a website or download an app. Instagram’s director of market operations Jim Squires told Fast Company that 70 per cent of people follow businesses on Instagram and that a third of the most viewed Stories are also from businesses. To that end, the company will now include analytics about Stories, including metrics such as reach, impressions and replies, in its Business Tools dashboard
NEW APPOINTMENT Lee Fran Beauty Imports Pty Ltd are pleased to announce and welcome Anja Wedemeyer to their growing team of staff. Anja’s main role will be using her years of experience in Sales, Marketing and Promotions. Her career started as a talented Hairdresser, then she moved onto cosmetic sales as a consultant in the retail industry. From there working for a large National hair, nails and beauty wholesaler, playing a leading roll in all facets of the industry. Anja, with her passion for the hair and beauty industry, her ability to multi task, always in a pleasant and friendly manner makes her a perfect addition to the wonderful Lee Fran Beauty Imports team., who are celebrating 29 years as the sole importer of REFECTOCIL, STAGELINE/LAURENDOR Make up, D’ORLEAC Make up, STYX Natural Cosmetics, FRENCH Clays, & ALLBELLE Eyelashes.
Contact her on email anja@lfbi.com.au
SCIENTISTS CLOSER TO ERADICATING WRINKLES A groundbreaking new discovery made by scientists in the US may spell the end of wrinkles forever. A team at the University of Pennsylvania have found a way to manipulate wound healing so it leads to skin regeneration rather than scarring. Their studies have shown that this is possible using hair follicles which release a vital signalling molecule called Bone Morphogenetic Protein (BMP). BMP was found to instruct scar-forming cells, commonly found in healing wounds, to transform themselves into adipocytes. These are the fat cells that are normally found in skin but are lost when scars form and as a result of ageing. Essentially, after influencing the cells found in healing wounds and transforming them into adipocytes, the skin can regenerate and signs of scarring and ageing will be significantly reduced. Although the research focused on scarring, the discovery reported in the journal Science has much wider implications, said a spokesperson from the university. It’s said the findings can potentially help develop a new strategy to regenerate adipocytes in wrinkled skin, which could lead to brand new anti-ageing treatments too Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 1
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IND US TRY NEWS
THE NUMBER ONE BRAND FOR BROWS ANNOUNCED! Brows have been big business in beauty for quite some time now but this week saw the crowning of new category king, Benefit Cosmetics. According to estimated retail sales from July to September 2016, the American makeup giant is the number one brow brand worldwide, beating previous winner Anastasia Beverly Hills to the top spot. This could be down to a number of reasons, the first being that women are definitely considering their eyebrows more than ever (brow-related sales increasing by 37 per cent during the same three-month period). For Benefit in particular, an ongoing dedication to the category including its slew of new products, vibrant packaging and a strong Instagram game will have undoubtedly encouraged consumers to think of the brand for everyday brow solutions. Benefit currently has more than 2000 BrowBar Beauty Lounges in 41 countries with more than 4000 aestheticians around the world. In July 2016, it further cemented its reputation as the global brow authority with a collection of transformative products that aim to volumise, shape, fill, highlight, prime, and define the brows. Top sellers include gimme brow, ka-brow!, and good proof brow pencil
THE MAKEUP INSTITUTE LAUNCH Influencers and bloggers were recently invited to celebrate the launch of a new college, The Makeup Institute – an education platform that delivers in-class training and industry experience to aspiring makeup artists. To launch Sydney’s newest makeup college, guests were invited to take part in a makeup masterclass with M.A.C trainer Pablo Morgade. They were encouraged to participate in the interactive workshop and trial the smokey eye look on themselves. Following this, ghd educator and trainer Kristina Goczan shared the brand’s latest tips and tricks. Guests were then treated to a complimentary style or blow-dry at the ghd pop-up bar. Attendees were given a gorgeous gift box full of goodies following the event.
The Makeup Institute | 53 Balfour Street | Chippendale Sydney
THE FASTEST GROWING BEAUTY CATEGORY REVEALED Beauty supplements aren’t just a trend it seems, with a study confirming the sector as the beauty world’s fastest growing. Ingestible beauty additions are proving competition for traditional creams and serums, particularly for the millennial market. NPD Group global beauty industry analyst Karen Grant says: “Supplements are] kind of exploding right now, it’s the smallest but fastest-growing category we track.” “Sales gains in the prestige facial skincare supplement market have increased fivefold since 2013, reaching $US4.1 million in 2015, according to NPD. The firm projects sales to reach $US6 million by the end of 2016. Mintel research last year found that 80 per cent of those surveyed between the ages of 18 and 34 either have taken or are interested in taking an ingestible addressing concerns like dry skin or acne.” The movement is making retailers big and small sit up and take notice. Says Target US senior vice president of beauty merchandising John Butcher, “We’re going to keep a close eye on it. There’s something there.” Beauty specialty retailer Cos Bar CEO David Olsen agrees, commenting: “Looking at what’s going on in grocery with natural and organic, it’s only a matter of time before the rest of retail heads in that direction. I don’t even want to call it a trend – a trend means it’s going away.”
LASH LIFT M ASCARA The innovators of the global phenomenon Elleebana Lash Lift bring you their latest offering
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IND US TRY NEWS
GOOGLE’S TOP 10 BEAUTY QUERIES FOR 2016 Google has published its top 10 annual beauty queries for the year with hair styling techniques and eye makeup tricks featuring heavily in 2016. Braids were big news in 2015 and continued to be so this year. It’s been revealed that the most Googled questions was “How to do a fishtail braid?”. This trend, an increasingly popular look on the catwalks, also made waves on social media platforms like Pinterest and became a firm favourite of celebrities on the red carpet too. Hair health was another key beauty topic with consumers keen to know how to make hair grow faster. When it came to makeup, users wanted to know how to apply concealer and how to get rid of bags under eyes. Caring for accessories also gained importance with many people searching “How to clean makeup brushes?”, which is thought to point to a growing number of people caring more about their skin health. Finally, it looks as if the eyebrow trend is going nowhere anytime soon. Consumers were eager to learn how to fill in and shape eyebrows while social media influencers like Huda Kattan of Huda Beauty were seen to be posting countless tutorials on the subject
2017 TRAINING DAYS ANNOUNCED WITH GAY WARDLE
Everything You Need To Know About Skin with 3 Days of Power Packed education is back on the serving block from World Class Educator Gay Wardle. With dates kicking off in March and running through until September 2017, courses are available in Brisbane, Sydney, Melbourne, Perth, Gold Coast and New Zealand Day 1: Back to Basics Transferring your knowledge of Cell Biology, Cell Nutrition and Skin Anatomy to design effective treatment plans. Day 2: Advanced Skin Anatomy Ageing skin, acne, pigmentation, immune system, impact of hormones on the skin and much more Day 3: Skin Disorders Rosacea, hyper-proliferative DNA disorders +more Beauty professionals working with skin anatomy must remain on a relentless journey of lifelong learning to ensure that they continually equip themselves with the knowledge and skills that are required to deliver and perform current and cutting edge treatments. Gay
Wardle’s workshops and courses are designed to provide the participant with this knowledge and these skills. Education is the key to confidence in treatment planning, delivery and success for the client! Who should attend these courses: - Nurses - Dermal Therapists - Beauty Therapists - Therapists wanting to expand their knowledge - Therapists returning to the industry after leave These courses are designed to meet the individual needs of all participants. Post collegial discussions and mentoring is provided to all workshop participants.
For more course information, including locations and dates or to BOOK ONLINE visit www.gaywardle.com.au Phone 0418 708 455 Email: gay@m-da.com.au
Otto and Zoe Mitter; off to Anzana to educate internationally in March 2017
ELLEEBANA TO CONTINUE SUCCESS IN 2017 2016 proved to be another huge year for the Elleebana brand and its educational pioneer Otto Mitter. Otto has been leading the way with his unique education with a year that has seen him fortunate enough to be an invited guest educator at some of the worlds leading Lash & Brow conferences around the world. One of the most rewarding experiences Otto explained was his recent trip to present in Russia. “At the end of 2016 I was an educator at Lash Boom World in Moscow, Russia. I got to present in front of hundreds of the worlds best lash artists, it was such an amazing experience for me’. Says Otto. This year will see Otto and his Elleebana team planning some unique events both in Australia and overseas. A project that will come to fruition in 2017 is the first Elleebana Trainers Elleevation Symposium. This March in Phoenix, Arizona, USA, they will be delivering the world’s first Elleebana Trainers Elleevation Symposium, an opportunity for Elleebana trainers to be together and push their skills to the next level, “lift” standards to new heights and become better educators and lash artists. In the USA alone, Elleebana have approximately 40 trainers across the country now, and are incredibly excited and grateful to have the opportunity to grow the beloved Australian brand worldwide. An incredible success story, the brand has grown dramatically over the last few years although they have been working on the products for over 15 years! It has take a lot of dedication and passion but the brand is really starting to see the fruits of their labour. Whilst the symposium is in progress, Otto has also been invited to be a guest speaker and educator at Lash Artists International in the USA, which will be followed up by educating at conferences in South Korea, NZ and London.
JESSICA®® UNLEASHES TWO NEW EXCITING COLLECTIONS Into the Wild, unleashes high-octane sexiness with six bold, new shades designed to tempt your inner wild child. The vamp inspired collection features deep, lush tones, which capture the hidden desires lurking in the shadows. Each passion-driven shade nurtures healthy nails while offering a glimpse into inner urges. “Into the Wild allows each woman to reveal an edgier and sultrier side of their personality. It’s the balance between poise and playful,” said Jessica Vartoughian, Founder & CEO of JESSICA. “Our colour selections are naturally bold to let ladies expose as much or as little as they like.”
carry any lady through the season with style and class. “Neutral nails showcase such elegance and sophistication while offering just a glimpse into what lies behind the curtain,” said Jessica Vartoughian, Founder & CEO of JESSICA. “Silhouette’s flattering collection gives natural nails a boost of luxuriousness without revealing too much.” All six new shades are available in matching GELeration® which make finding the perfect shade for any complexion as simple as going nude. Colors include: • Naked Contours: Velvety light mocha with cool undertones • Bare It All : A delicate neutral nude
The six new shades are also available in matching GELeration® Soak-Off Gel shades, each with a rich depth of color that will last the entire season. Colors include: • Tangled In Secrets : vintage brick shade • Mysterious Echoes : delicious grape currant hue • Enter If You Dare: a bold marsala tone
• Tease : A hint of dusty rose • Simply Sexy: A cool-toned nude that’s anything but basic • Exposed : A glistening ecru shade with a touch of sparkle • Nude Thrills: Soft cappuccino hue with warm glints
• The Luring Beauty: a wild berry • Snake Pit: a deep taupe blend • Fruit of Temptation: a rich cabernet classic Silhouette, is a collection that bares six sophisticated shades of simple and sexy nude colors suitable for every skin tone. Developed with subtle yet shimmery tones, Silhouette’s perennial beauty will
All Jessica and GELeration Colors are 7-FREE (No Formaldehyde, No Formaldehyde Resin, Toluene, DSP, Camphor, Xylene or Ethyl Tosylamide), cruelty free, vegan friendly and made in the USA.
For more information contact www.jessicacosmetics.com.au
FEATURE
Contact us today and join the brand that is the future of beauty! Call 1300 00 SKIN or email sales@danne.com.au Before
After 2 weeks
Before
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After
REMOVE, REBUILD, PROTECT & MAINTAIN DMK is a paramedical skin revision company that has a concept of remove, rebuild, protect and maintain and this is upheld by a treatment based concept and supported by DMK Home Prescriptives to achieve phenomenal before and after results for conditions such as acne, scarring, pigmentation, ageing and reactive skins. ACNE MANAGEMENT
AGE MANAGEMENT
Before
5 days post surgery
After 16 treatments
SCARRING MANAGEMENT
We spoke to Daniel Dickson, MD of DMK here in Australia about the brand, its history and what makes it a premium player in the Australian Beauty Industry
PRE & POST SURGERY MANAGEMENT
HOW DID YOU FIRST GET INVOLVED WITH DMK AND BECOME THE MD AND SOLE DISTRIBUTOR HERE IN AUSTRALIA?
9 days post surgery
The founder Danné Montague-King has had the company in over 30 countries for the past 45+ years and is still an active formulator based in L.A, in the United States.
Debbie (my now wife) was using DMK for several years prior to 1999 and with my background in sports massage, strength and conditioning therapy, there was a common link and love for seeing results and understanding the anatomy and physiology of the body. Debbie couldn’t believe that more people didn’t have access to DMK and it soon become her obsession. For 5 months during 1999, we approached DMK International asking every way possible we could become a distributor. Eventually the company said ‘no thank you very much’ and ‘continue to operate DMK in your clinic in the way you have been.’ Naturally I was shattered, but wasn’t satisfied with that answer. So, I prepared a business plan and sent my sister Daniel Dickson, (unbeknown to America) the day MD DMK after this earth-shattering decision Australia to act as a business consultant and to let them know we weren’t going deliver life changing results. away. To cut a long story short eventually they couldn’t say no, they put some very strong targets and YOUR WIFE, DEBBIE DICKSON, goals on us to achieve or we would be shown the IS HEAD OF EDUCATION FOR door! We will always remember the opportunity DMK, EXPLAIN A LITTLE we were given and at the same time recognise ABOUT YOUR ROLES AND that DMK Australia lived up to the difficult goals and parameters set. Our passion for skin and HOW THEY COMPLIMENT education continues to shine through. If you know EACH OTHER. Debbie, you will understand her commitment to Debbie’s position is the Head of Education offer superior education and deliver real results. for DMK Australia and New Zealand and she This became an obsession for myself also. We collaborates continuously with Danné himself are driven and ensure that we introduce DMK to on advancing treatment protocols and education like-minded and passionate people who want to worldwide. She has lectured overseas in various make a difference. 18 years have passed, but it countries and is integral in the DMK USA feels like yesterday and it has been a wonderful Education Program. journey meeting some amazing therapists and Debbie and myself are as different as chalk clinics who continually surprise themselves on and cheese, yet we share a passion and thirst
Visit joinDMK.info and secure your future today!
PLEASE GIVE A BIT OF A BACKGROUND ON DMK IN AUS SINCE ITS LAUNCH HERE IN 1999?
Debbie and I took DMK Australia over in 1999 and there was only a handful of clinics operating for about 10 years prior to that. By 2004 DMK Australia was the number 3 DMK country out of the 30; since 2005 Australia has been number one in the DMK world, which is something we take great pride in. The main recipe is that DMK Australia has focused heavily on education and support and our clinics that both enjoy and need this level of support in a competitive market. We introduced our online education platform, face-to-face annual training calendar and staff incentive programs are just a few of the initiatives that we support our partner clinics in. DMK is not just about skin treatments – it is the ability to diagnose the skin, prescribe the appropriate treatment protocol and have the confidence and know how to deal with various responses the skin may have. We ensure clients have the confidence in their therapist to continue the program and achieve great results. People return to confident and passionate therapists and that is what we have built in Australia over the last 18 years.
DMK supports your business to achieve the best results: Powerful education. Great incentives. Trusted mentoring.
DMK’s support is more than skin deep
for education that is contagious to our staff and therapists who we have the pleasure of working with. I concentrate on the back-end part of the business: marketing, promotion and sales. Debbie continues to develop our education programs which is a lifelong job and continuously evolving. The amount of research and development of education she does is enormous and our therapists have been the beneficiaries of that. Whether it is enhancing product material, treatment protocols, manuals, PowerPoint presentations, fact sheets or informative videos, Debbie will never rest on bringing the deepest information to our therapist to ensure that they are equipped to deal with not only challenging skin conditions, but the ever-shifting environment of the industry.
4 years and he will not produce that until he is absolutely happy with these results. As long as people stick to the concept of Remove, Rebuild (therapist’s obligation) and Protect, Maintain (client’s obligation) they will have the ability to achieve amazing long-lasting results.
YOU OFFER CLINIC PARTNERS COMPREHENSIVE BUSINESS SOLUTIONS. TELL US MORE ABOUT THE MARKETING, TRAINING, GUIDANCE AND EDUCATION YOU OFFER
DMK’s support is more than skin deep
the amount of initiatives and programs that we offer for our clinics. These do take a lot of time to package, but they make a huge amount of difference to the partner style relationship that we have. We are far from just a ‘dispatch house’, many of our clinics trust on us and the work we do and to support them in becoming a quality skin clinics with the best education and supportive initiatives around them so they can do what they are best at – SKIN.
We see guidance in marketing as a mandatory offering to our DMK clinics and just as important as education support – as they both work synergistically and assist clinics and their therapists to operate at their full potential. Its TELL US MORE ABOUT THE I not about every knowing treatment 1,2,3. It RANGE AND WHAT IS OFFERED is about developing their approach to revising WHAT IS THE DMK LICENCE? skin conditions, achieved through continually TO CLINIC PARTNERS IN The DMK Licence Is what all therapists will work advancing their product and non-product aligned TERMS OF TREATMENTS TO through our DMK education program and they will in education. be required to achieve 80 points per year (similar OFFER CLIENTS AND RETAIL. We have over 60 courses in our Online Education to other industries and ongoing education). This The DMK brand is synonymous with the Portal, which has personal logins for therapists, licence allows a framework for the therapist to Remove, Rebuild, Protect, Maintain concept. It is managers and clinic owners only. These courses achieve various levels and progress through their a flawless and unchangeable concept since DMK cover from advanced skin analysis right thought DMK Licence levels, while documenting their inception over 45 years ago, Remove, Rebuild to communication and consultation training. achievements throughout the year. For example, is the therapist’s obligation and the Protect and Along with marketing and business support, a person will start as a Skin Therapist and work Maintain is the client’s obligation. plus suggestions on hiring great people, all the through their way through to a Paramedical Skin So, the in-clinic phase of the therapist is way through to the DMK skin revision programs Technician, then a Paramedical Mentor and supported and then enhanced by the DMK Home and DMK Home Prescription training. We really eventually a Paramedical Advisor. Prescriptives usage on a daily basis of our clients. are an education company that happens to offer In order to do this, they will be doing various Our DMK Enzyme Therapy is famous worldwide treatments and formulations designed to offer courses online, practical validation and eventually as it is unique to DMK and is the backbone of all life-changing results. submitting before and after case studies of our results. Some amazing developments in The marketing support and various other including the documentation and commentary formulations in products such as Beta Gel, Direct collaterals for both in clinic promotion and brand around that person’s results. We believe it is Delivery Vitamin C and our DMK EFA Ultra (an awareness are continually developed by our essential fatty acid supplement) are amazing 5-staff Marketing Team. Our goal is to provide the important keeping the therapists accountable to their ongoing education; as there is no really is formulations for clients who rely on these to clinic owner with as much material as possible to no association that is monitoring their ongoing support their results at home. ensure they don’t have to do this in their already education within our industry. We are simply The DMK philosophyPRE is supported by the DMK busy schedule. Our marketingSCARRING approach MANAGEMENT is so & POST SURGERY MANAGEMENT trying to ensure that people are dedicated in Home Prescriptives and based on the philosophy that they can build their own adventure over being the best they can be in the industry they of imitating nature for natural results. They are a the year so that they have all the template work came into to make a difference. botanical based formulation that is designed to available to them, so they can deploy through nurture and support the skin through its transition their databases while they are in their treatment from a dysfunctional state back to great skin. rooms performing the life changing work that WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS Although DMK has been around for some time. they do. ON ONLINE SELLING? There are very few changes in both the treatments We are very staff heavy for the number of clinics I will keep this short and sweet as my opinion and DMK Home Prescriptions as Danné himself we run in Australia and New, which is due to is not necessarily just about online selling it is will only ever bring out formulations that are 5 days post surgery 9 days post surgery Before After 16 treatments needed and will never succumb to pressures of seasonal fragment changes or apparent trends AGE MANAGEMENT ACNE MANAGEMENT in the market or the now the new flavour of the month. In the last 12 months, he has launched what has been a first for him – DMK Limited Range, which is a range of extremely high quality formulations and in many cases never used before formulations in topical skin care products! This high-end range compliments the DMK concept and is now involved throughout clients Before After 2 weeks Before After DMK skin revision programs and in some cases, is added to their existing DMK Home Prescriptives program to continue to support their skin in between treatment programs. The beauty of the DMK branding is that it is not ever changing. There is always advancing in education and understanding on condition based formulations and understanding how we can achieve more superior results. Danné himself is a very www.dannemking.com.au | 1300 00 SKIN | Building confidence from the outside in stubborn formulator and everything he produces must work. Hence some products will take years to come to market. I know currently he is working on an eye formulation that has been on the go for the last
DMK supports your business to achieve the best results: Powerful education. Great incentives. Trusted mentoring. Visit joinDMK.info and secure your future today!
Contact us today and join the brand that is the future of beauty! Call 1300 00 SKIN or email sales@danne.com.au
cont’d over page
FEATURE the DMK difference and to us we are all about education. Out of education with advanced formulations achieves amazing results, which satisfies the therapists and owners as this is why everyone originally entered the industry to make a difference and to change people’s lives. We genuinely care about the relationships we have with therapists and owners and we work extremely hard (and will continue to), to have the best relationships with our partner clinics and be an incredible backend support for them in their quest of operating a successful skin business. People often talk about a certain following of DMK, there is without a doubt an obvious enthusiasm and family-like approach to our gatherings, events and education days. This is not about being better or worse but for the last 18 years Debbie, myself and our staff have dedicated ourselves to a very firm vision and direction and we are un-waivered in our approach there, many of our clinics have been with us since the start have enjoyed this. To us that is the DMK difference.
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1300 00 SKIN
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Building confidence from the outside in cont’d from page 19
www.dannemking.com.au
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DMK’s support is more than skin deep Contact us today and join the brand that is the future of beauty! Call 1300 00 SKIN or email sales@danne.com.au
Before
After 2 weeks
Before
about the competitive environment that industry suppliers are creating that is driving clients away from clinics – making it harder for the business to earn revenue to justify in employing people. The biggest investment for clinics is in property (rent) and people (wages). so, I don’t understand why professional range manufacturers offer convenience based purchasing for clients to purchase, as it stops them from building the relationship and coming in for their professional skin revision treatments. I feel that we need to be driving our consumers to the clinic door and to have their treatments prescribed by their trained therapist who can then also prescribed appropriate DMK Home Prescriptives offer the life changing before and after results that we can offer.
Debbie Dickson,DMK Head of Education
After
DMK supports your business to achieve the best results: YOU ARE A SPONSOR OF THE 2017 AUSTRALIAN BEAUTY YOUR OWN BUSINESS Powerful education. Great incentives. INDUSTRY AWARDS. WHAT STRUCTURE IS UNIQUE IN WHAT DO YOU SEE AS THE MADE YOU DECIDE TO BE TERMS OF THE NUMBER OF Trusted mentoring. MAJOR POINT OF DIFFERENCE INVOLVED IN THIS?
upholding a professional image that everyone can be proud of and this is the one thing I hope that is changed.
ACNE MANAGEMENT
AGE MANAGEMENT
Before
5 days post surgery
9 days post surgery
After 16 treatments
STAFF YOU HAVE SERVICING YOUR CLINIC PARTNERS. CAN YOU EXPLAIN WHAT THEY DO?
DMK OFFERS?
I have attended the last few years of the awards and I would like to think that we can introduce The main point for difference with DMK is our general approach to business with our focus to our clinics to the Australian Beauty Industry Awards. I feel many of them are worthy entrants a small number of clinics where we offer parallel and I think it is a fantastic recognition for people training for therapist, managers and owners. Yes, our staffing structure is quite unique as we that do work so hard in their businesses to enter Obviously bias but our concept of Remove, have a number of disciplines that we feel are and be a part of some great businesses that Rebuild, Protect and Maintain has offered not open for negotiation. We are able to support are making a difference. I am looking forward to unsurpassed and unparalleled before and after clinics to the level that we feel is needed for being a part of the awards program so we can try cases for over 45 years and the confidence we them to achieve greatness. For example, each and add some entrants to the competition which have behind is that we are the only company Account Manager has a maximum of 40 clinics is always healthy and I think businesses in our that pH scale from 2.8 to 12, we have our unique PRE & time. POSTThis SURGERY SCARRING MANAGEMENT to take care of at any one meansMANAGEMENT that Enzyme Therapy and our trans dermal delivery in industry appreciates the hard work and effort they support their in-clinic training promotional through the year our DMK Home Prescriptives is also something support, various individual staff training and very unique to our industry. The concept and customise in-clinic promotions. Such as formulations have not changed very much at all AND FINALLY… WHAT DOES consultation or promotion days, this can only be in the 45 years because it is based on imitating 2017 LOOK LIKE FOR DMK? achieved if the account manager and educator the body’s chemistry to provide natural results. We have got a wonderfully busy year ahead as have the time to effectively work on this for the Our education is not just in product knowledge we have a new concept and approach to our businesses. it is in all aspects of business in management, education program which sees an introduction to Our admin, marketing and finance support communication, consultation, skin consultation a new After boot16 camp style training offered in each teams are there also to post support our Account 9 days post surgery 5 days surgery Before treatments and I feel we put a lot more time into the individual state through Australia. We have enhanced and Managers and clinics in all the various program rather than just dispatching products AGE MANAGEMENT ACNE MANAGEMENT promoted more online education courses, we that we produce. Every initiative requires, an have a fantastic tailored build your own marketing administrative and financial backend support. IF YOU COULD CHANGE ONE adventure where you can pick promotions. We The one thing I have been very conscious of, is THING ABOUT THE INDUSTRY are working on delivering a range of online that once you build a program you must continue platforms that support both education and to develop that an enhance it, rather than stopping WHAT WOULD IT BE? if it is not working for you. We may sometimes I feel our industry often is cannibalised by various marketing initiatives; as well as some specialised take more time to bring a concept trends or decisions made by outside people and is business tools for some owners to assist in the busyness of operational life. to market as we thrash it out often not elevated to the level of professionalism Of course, we have our 18th Annual Awards every way so that is sustainable that I feel our therapists deserve. Dinner held and Before maintainable. In short, our After 2 weeks Before After on Saturday 26th August which is This can be from a change in legislation, which held at the Hyatt Regency in Darling Harbour, heavy backend and frontend staff now reduces the number of hours required to do Sydney. These are always infamously themed, numbers are necessary to offer your basic Diploma of Beauty Therapy. Maybe the level of support to our clinics funding cuts that don’t make it accessible for last year’s was The Mad Hatter’s Tea Party and this year is Studio 54. We are also involved as a and therapists that they need in people to follow their passions to become a sponsor of the annual Australian Beauty Industry order to achieve their results in therapist to advance in the skin therapist arena. Awards on Sunday 27th August, which we are running a successful business. And potential hypes and fads in ingredients or very much looking forward to as usual. It will be In 2016 we actually produced an machinery that make our clients feel there is a a full year ahead and we look forward to a very 11-minute video in what we call one hit wonder or medical ingredient that we all action-packed 2017. know that just doesn’t exist. www.dannemking.com.au In short, | I think 1300 00 SKIN I would say that I |would Building like for confidence from the outside in our industry to be governed by a body that is respected and offers a level of accountability for people to stay part of this great industry that dedicated to education and accountable to www.dannemking.com.au
Visit joinDMK.info and secure your future today!
PRE & POST SURGERY MANAGEMENT
SCARRING MANAGEMENT
Visit joinDMK.info and secure your future today!
DMK supports your business to achieve the best results: Powerful education. Great incentives. Trusted mentoring.
DMK’s support is more than skin deep Contact us today and join the brand that is the future of beauty! Call 1300 00 SKIN or email sales@danne.com.au
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FEATURE
FROM BUSINESS TO BEAUTY
Before getting into the beauty industry Liesl Tziolis had a career as a corporate lawyer for 20 years, living in London, Tokyo, Hong Kong, Singapore and Istanbul. In Japan her love for all things Japanese was firmly established and she was instantly drawn to the aesthetics, the quality and the belief in ancient rituals and wisdom. In Istanbul, her love for history and all things ancient was indulged, spending hours roaming the backstreets of the old town finding interesting things and making friends with the traders. It was while living in Istanbul that Liesl was surrounded by entrepreneurship and was inspired to build a business for herself. “I have always loved beauty and the concept of combining this love with the ancient wellness rituals that I learnt about,” says Liesl, “experiencing them first hand on my travels. This is what primarily appealed to me when starting out in the challenging beauty industry.” We spoke to Liesl to tell us in her own words, how her vision became a reality.
BB: WHAT DO YOU LOVE MOST ABOUT THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY? LT: One of the things that I love about
businesses in the beauty industry is that they are so multifaceted and you require a team with such varied skill sets to bring your ideas to fruition. All the tasks involved with brining your product concept to life – design, packaging, production, manufacturing, sales and marketing – require a team with a high level of skill and a shared vision for the products. I found during the process of starting the business that my experience as a lawyer helped me greatly in being able to organise a team who have experience in each of these areas and ensure that tasks where completed to a timeline. Personally I also love 22
Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 1
creating and building things from scratch, something which is quite limited within the legal profession.
BB: WHAT MADE YOU CHOOSE TO START THE BUSINESS? LT: Why I chose to start a
business in the beauty industry was primarily based on the initial working capital required to start a company such as this and the fact that this was both financially achievable but also would hopefully be personally satisfying. In the future I hope to expand the brand to incorporate all the products for our complete wellness rituals with product lines outside of bath and body. The brand is preparing for expansion and we’re currently planning our next ranges which will be inspired by Scandinavia, Persia, Thailand and Korea. We want to extend the brand beyond bath and body and also create lifestyle products that reflect the ancient civilizations of each range.
BB: TELL US MORE ABOUT THE BRAND LT: APSU is a lifestyle wellness brand. Informed and inspired by the time honoured traditions and contemporary experiences of bathing customs and ancient wellness rituals from around the world, APSU offers customers a myriad of luxury bath and body products which have been designed to bring to life these extraordinary ancient rituals. APSU loosely translates to “in the water” in ancient Sumerian, which refers to the primeval sea below the void space of the underworld (Kur) and the earth (Ma) above, within ancient Sumerian cultures. As a brand and through our products, APSU is meant to evoke people’s imaginations and take them on a journey into the past such as showing them
what it is like to travel through Japan and have an onsen on a cold wintery day, take Ayurveda in beautiful ancient India or to have a hamam in a quiet old bath house in Istanbul. We have designed the products to help our customers learn about ancient cultures and their wisdom of health and wellness.
BB: WHAT IS YOUR UNIQUE SELLING POINT? LT: One of the unique selling points of our
APSU products, that we’re extremely proud of is the formulations of each scent. Each scent in our products has been mixed and selected by our own aromatherapist, ensuring that the scent is always perfect and unique to other formulations on the market. This is quite unique within the industry as many other businesses simply purchase ‘pre-mixed’ scents but we are committed to ensuring that each scent is unique and indicative of the ancient inspirations of the products. APSU is currently stocked online at www.apsulife.com and across several five star hotels in Thailand and Hong Kong.
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FEATURE Raising the bar in
NON-SURGICAL SKIN REJUVENATION
“In 1984 my dream was to create a Centre that provided personalised beauty solutions with natural and lasting results - a world above traditional beauty salons. Today, we have developed a Centre that specialises in Cosmetic Tattooing, and unique skin solutions.” Rita Porreca Rita Porreca is the leading practitioner at Sydney Permanent Make-up Centre and offers a wealth of accumulated practical experience and knowledge. Rita graduated in 1991 from the International Institute of Permanent Cosmetics in the United States, and has also completed Paramedical Aesthetics and Paramedical Camouflage Training. She has performed countless procedures on eyebrows, eyeliner, and lips and she constantly updates her qualifications. Her expertise enables her to work with medical experts in post-operative cosmetic procedures, noting every treatment is undertaken in a sterile clinic environment.
the skin for a more youthful appearance.
Two of the best ways for quickly turning back the clock on ageing skin are meso-gliding and platelet rich plasma (PRP), according to Rita: These two medically endorsed beauty treatments can successfully be combined for maximum results in a matter of weeks. “For the first time we can now offer clients a powerful “double dose of internal and external skin repair’, using their own stem cells and amplifying the collagen production in the body, especially the face,” explains Rita.
The Cosmedic Professionals team suggests at least two sessions per area, 4-6 weeks apart combined with different treatments for optimum results like IPL, skin needling or medical grade peels hence in a customised package.
While PRP has been used for a few years now, the clinic can offer the highest grade of rich platelets for the best results in non-surgical procedure for facial and skin rejuvenation, according to Eda Houghton, Cosmedic Professionals registered nurse and Managing Director of Renew Cosmetic. PRP can also be successfully used to treat thinning hair and hair loss particularly male pattern baldness. PRP therapy uses your own blood platelets to stimulate new cell growth, helping to improve your complexion, skin texture and to restore lost facial volume. Meso- glide is a skin needling technique, which helps to infuse active products, targeting acne or other facial scars, and tightens
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Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 1
“Skin Needling techniques like meso-gliding have vastly improved with better than ever results in stimulating our clients’ natural collagen, so your skin can improve itself naturally, with hardly any down time. At Cosmedic Professionals we are able to reverse signs of aging also great for acne scarring. It also stimulates melanin to improve the look of white scarring,” said Rita. PRP start from $650 for one area, with some clients wanting to add in their neck, décolletage or hands. Meso-gliding is priced from $200 for specific scars, a half face is $250 and $350 for a full face treatment.
WHAT EXACTLY IS THE PRP PROCEDURE?
In PRP, 10-30ML of your blood is taken and spun it in a centrifuge, which enables the separation of the blood cells from your plasma and platelets. This is then re-injected into the skin to stimulate collagen and new skin cells. PRP harnesses the beneficial functions of the patients own platelets and therefore there is no risk of allergy or rejection of the treatment. Your blood is then placed in a centrifuge for around 8-10 minutes. Once your cells have separated, the rich platelets are extracted and injected into the skin where rejuvenation is requested.
WHAT SHOULD YOU EXPECT AFTER YOUR PRP TREATMENT?
Most people will experience some mild to moderate swelling in the area of treatment, redness or heat, which are all common side
Rita Porreca effects and are part of the activation of your platelets. Because a volume of fluid has to be administered, swelling is inevitable. Bruising can occur and may take several days to disappear.
HOW SOON WILL I SEE RESULTS?
Most patients will require an average of three treatments at four to six week intervals. The first thing people notice is an improvement in skin turgor and elasticity. Collagen production can take up to three months to occur and the results can differ depending on the individual. Because the injected product is 100% your own, factors such as smoking, stress and illness can effect results. A series of three treatments can yield results for up to two years.
ARE THERE ANY REASONS WHY I CAN’T HAVE PRP THERAPY? Like the majority of cosmetic procedures, ladies who are pregnant, breast-feeding or trying to conceive are not suitable candidates. This treatment is not recommended in people on anticoagulation treatment, autoimmune conditions, have suffered any type of cancer or who have certain implants in the treatment area.
About Cosmedic Professionals: Cosmedic Professional is a holistic cosmetic clinic in Sydney’s inner west, offering a wide range of beauty treatments and cosmetic procedures under a single roof. Founded by Rita Porreca, Managing Director of the wellestablished Sydney Permanent Makeup Centre boasting over 30 years of industry expertise, the clinic combines Beauty Treatments, Medical Procedures and Alternative Health Therapies under one practice. Bella Building, Shop 04, 239 Great North Road, Five Dock, NSW 2046 AUSTRALIA Phone: +61 2 9712 4133. www.cosmedicprofessionals.com.au
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DERMAL
SKINTERNATIONAL TRENDS European Congresses Edition By Andrew R. Christie
As IMCAS (International Master Course On Aging Science) bids a fond au revoir to delegates in Paris, this concludes Europe’s busiest congress season for all things related to medical and clinical aesthetics. With over 20 major symposiums, trade fairs and conferences across 15 countries, I was lucky enough to be invited as a key guest speaker at 6 of these events held in Croatia, Austria, England, Romania and France. My other teaching engagements have also seen me recently visit Moldovia, Hungary, Finland, Norway, Sweden, Germany, Belgium, The Netherlands, Qatar and Kuwait. 2017 promises to be my biggest year yet with engagements booked in over 100 cities in 40 countries to deliver over 250 lectures to nearly 20,000 medical and aesthetic practitioners. In this edition of Skinternational Trends, I explore the latest, the greatest and the craziest fads, trends and innovations for the European clinical beauty market.
MEDICAL BEAUTY CROATIA (MBC) – CROATIA
This smaller scale congress attracts medical practitioners from Croatia, Serbia, Bosnia, Herzegovina and Slovenia. Held in Zagreb (Croatia’s buzzing capital), this symposium focuses on all things new to inspire and develop the Slavic market. My lecture at MBC focussed on the treatment of alopecia utilising a combination of automated micro-needling with activated platelets (PRP = Platelet Rich Plasma) to stimulate and sustain new and voluminous hair growth. This combination treatment activates and concentrates growth factors to promote increased vascularisation. The subsequent angiogenesis delivers hormones and further growth factors to nourish the hair bulb and follicle. Alopecia is defined as the partial or complete loss of hair on the scalp and can affect males and females at any age. Depending on the form of alopecia, the hair follicle can reduce in size (therefore thinning the hair) or the hair can be snapped off or simply fall out with the bulb intact. The combination of automated micro-needling with PRP increases growth factor concentration five-fold then delivers them into the follicle with no injections and minimum discomfort. Unlike dermal rollers which catch and pull on the hair, automated needling delivers a smooth gliding result that can even be performed on long and curly hair. Not only does the physical mechanism of needling create a rejuvenating healing response, it also delivers thousands of channels per second to maximise the infusion 26
Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 1
and dispersion of platelets within the skin. The procedure time takes as little as 30 minutes and is repeated every 4 weeks for 6-8 treatments. In the case of androgenetic alopecia (or male pattern baldness), results are further enhanced with topical application of minoxidil solution daily and oral finasteride to re-balance adrenal hormones. The treatment of alopecia is now becoming a major focus in dermatology and aesthetic medicine clinics right across the Slavic region. I also see this practice becoming increasingly common in Italy, UK, Romania and Scandinavia. The craziest procedure I came across at this congress? The use of ‘medical grade’ sandpaper to mechanically abrade the skin before applying a 40% TCA (trichloroacetic acid) solution over the top. Ouch!
EUROPEAN ACADEMY OF DERMATOLOGY & VENEROLOGY (EADV) – AUSTRIA
The EADV is the largest gathering of dermatologists in Europe and is held in a different city each year. This congress combines traditional dermatology with aesthetic medicine to promote the ultimate in skin health and beauty. Vienna did not fail to host a vibrant and exciting event. Aesthetic medicine has always been classed by purist dermatologists as ‘the dark side’, riddled with vanity and unnecessary procedures. The ageing process is not a skin disease but rather a perception of beauty. As global spending in wellness industry now approaches the trillion US dollar mark annually, it becomes clear why modern dermatology is expanding beyond melanomas, warts, fibromas and moles. One unique area of development is the concept of laser-free tattoo removal. This burgeoning market is showing signs of growth and development even in clinical aesthetics and has been adopted by beauty therapists in the UK, Finland, Belgium and Luxembourg. Recent statistics claim that 23% of American college students between the ages of 18-21 have at least one tattoo on their body. 15.4% of Australian males over the age of 18 are also claimed to have a tattoo. The top 5 most tattooed countries in the world include New Zealand, Australia, USA, Finland and The Netherlands. Laser-free tattoo removal was initially developed in the 1960s where certain acids and salts were applied to unwanted tattoo ink using a freehanded
technique. Updates to this technology combine multi-inject needles or automated skin needling connected to a syringe pump. This delivers a controlled and consistent dose of tattoo dissolving solution (such as a mild lactic acid). Producers of this technology claim to treat all tattoo colours (including blue, red and yellow) and wider surface areas than what laser can provide. As a scab forms following the procedure, the colour is essentially drawn upwards to the skin’s surface and is therefore not systemically processed by the liver or kidneys. This type of technology can be safely performed on a wider array of Fitzpatrick skin types with results achieved in as little 2 sessions. The treatment is suitable for the removal of amateur, professional and even cosmetic tattooing. After a recent visit to Kuwait, I learned that the Middle Eastern market has the highest demand for cosmetic tattoo application AND removal in the world.
Carboxytherapy The most ‘unique’ procedure I saw at the EADV? Hyaluronic acid filler injections to promote curvier and perkier buttocks. With up to 20mls of filler injected per cheek, results last up to two years. It was little surprise to learn that it was a Columbianbased company promoting this technology.
NATIONAL CONGRESS OF DERMATOLOGY (NCD) – ROMANIA
Held in the exclusive spa town of Sinaia nestled in the Carpathian Mountains near the Dracula castle, the NCD is Romania’s largest annual gathering of dermatologists and aesthetic doctors. As the first non-dermatologist to ever be invited as a keynote speaker at this congress, this was my opportunity to present global innovations on automated micro needling. As a specialist in this area, I have always been concerned with what products practitioners (and patients alike) have been needling into their skin. Just because a moisturiser can deliver topical hydration and skin plumpness, doesn’t mean it should be punctured and needled deep into the skin. Would you inject shea butter, grapeseed oil or jojoba wax (all common ingredients found in moisturising creams) into your face? Of course not, so why would you needle any old product into your skin? With an increased risk of granulomas and fibrous nodules forming when the wrong medium is needled into the skin, I now see the importance of using molecular weighted meso-glides to promote a safe needling procedure. These types of products serve as more than a gliding medium for automated needling procedures, they safely deliver ingredient actives into the skin without risk of infection conglomeration or the formation of scar tissue. Delivering all the benefits of traditional mesotherapy without the injections, these mesogliding solutions undergo the same processes as many dermal fillers. With molecular weights as small as 900KDa, they can be safely needled into the skin to allow free movement and delivery of actives without the negative consequences. Better still, beauty therapists can easily perform this procedure. The coolest (and most stomach turning) moment at the NCD? Watching an almost skinned cadaver with visible fat pads, vessels and muscles receive filler injections to highlight the risks of inadequate techniques and puncturing major blood networks.
CLINICAL, COSMETIC & RECONSTRUCTIVE EXPO (CCR) – UK
This congress held in London’s Olympia attracts a unique combination of aesthetic nurses, doctors, surgeons and dentists. Believe it or not, the most reputable injectors for botulinum toxins and fillers across the UK are dentists. With an expertise in facial anatomy, structure and form, dentists have developed from just treating bruxism (grinding teeth) to now treating teeth whitening, lip and mid-face volume for a total anti-ageing solution. My presentation at this congress focussed on the versatility of automated micro-needling for the surgical and aesthetic markets. More unusual indications being treated with needling include soft palette tissue to treat snoring and needling ear cartilage to better pin the ears during an otoplasty procedure. The most fascinating trend I saw at CCR was scalpel and laser-free blepharoplasty to treat the eyelids and under eye area. This latest
technology uses a device similar to a cauteriser to create a pattern of micro-burns across the upper and lower eye contours. The mechanism is argued to ionise gas particles to stimulate plasma as it delivers fractional zaps of electrical arcs. Results are instant and only a topical local anaesthetic is required during the procedure. The patient experiences a little swelling following the treatment and the dots micro-burned tissue simply slough away in around ten days. Whilst most patients only require one session, others may require up to three performed at monthly intervals. No hospital, no pain and no stitches. This innovative procedure is also being utilised for neck lifting and can be performed in just 30 minutes. The craziest moment of CCR? Watching a very famous practitioner get arrested, accused of practicing an overly ‘hands-on’ approach with their patients.
Mesotherapy
ANTI-AGING MEDICINE EUROPEAN CONGRESS (AMEC) - FRANCE
Second to the AMWC held in Monte Carlo annually, AMEC is Europe’s largest congress to combine aesthetic and anti-ageing medicine for full body wellness. Held in Paris, I was invited to join the panel and lecture at two major seminars; facial aesthetics for the Asian morphotype and facial aesthetics for the Baltic morphotype. It is my personal belief that skin is skin, no matter your age, your heritage or sex. Surgery and injectables serve no aesthetic benefit if the underlying skin quality is poor and compromised. My two lectures focussed on an innovative triphase procedure combining carboxytherapy, mesotherapy and automated skin needling. I presented a new machine called Dermapen Infuse developed by Equipmed in Australia. Carboxytherapy involves the injection of medicalgrade carbon dioxide into vascular deficient facial and body tissue. Originally developed for the sports medicine market, the biological cascade of carboxytherapy lowers blood pH to inundate tissue with oxygen to promote angiogenesis – the growth and development of new capillaries. With new vessels formed, growth factors and nutrients can then be released to regulate and rebalance compromised tissue, particularly scarring, dark under-eye circles, stretch marks, glycation and wrinkles. Carboxytherapy is also used for vaginal rejuvenation, vascular-deficient erectile dysfunction, alopecia and pain management. Just 6 micro-injections of carboxytherapy can revive fatigued facial contours to lift, revitalise and stimulate. As the gas is slowly injected (for just a few seconds), the surrounding tissue expands (like a balloon), before a crackling sensation is felt. Swelling reduces in just 20 minutes. Traditional mesotherapy is the injection of an active vitamin, mineral or substance into the mid layers of the skin to saturate and inundate it with biological actives. With its origins in the Italian and French markets, mesotherapy is the most commonly performed procedure in French aesthetic medicine. Unlike fillers which deposit a volumising solution, mesotherapy injections essentially deliver the tools to ‘help the skin help itself’. The injection method bypasses the skin’s acid mantle to ensure full purity and potency of ingredients IN the skin and not ON the skin. The Dermapen Infuse enables up to 300 injections of mesotherapy solution per minute into the skin. A vacuum activated handpiece promotes procedural comfort and vacuum seals the injection site to ensure no solution loss. A full face may be treated with 5ml of solution in a little
as 10 minutes. Needling the skin following a carboxytherapy and mesotherapy procedure not only promotes greater spread and infusion of the gas and solution in the skin, but also activates the deposition of collagen to remodel and restructure skin integrity. This tri-phase procedure optimises the skin’s potential in just one treatment to deliver a gentle yet intensive boost that works on the source of skin quality, function and form. The most fascinating treatment I saw at AMEC? Robot operated hair transplants. I look forward to keeping you up to date with all the international trends from my travels. Next stop Africa and Asia. Paris based, Andrew R. Christie is the Managing Director of Lipservice Consulting, world experts in technical writing and training manual content for the medical aesthetics market. Ph 0405 145 514 andrew@lipserviceconsulting.com Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 1
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EXFOLIATION & HYDROXY ACIDS By Daniel Rubenstein
Exfoliation, or removal of the outermost layers of skin is something that we have done for hundreds of years with the first recorded instance being queen Cleopatra who would bathe in milk. It can either be done physically, by manually scrubbing the skin with some form of abrasive object or chemically, by using ingredients that dissolve the bonds between the outermost layer or layers of dead skin cells, allowing them to be washed off. Exfoliation will remove dead dry and scaly skin and improve skin texture and tone . This is particularly true for older skin, where the natural 28 day process starting with skin creation and ending in shedding of those skin cells, slows down. The specific direct benefits include; a decrease in skin roughness, an improvement in skin smoothness and suppleness and sheen. Some exfoliating ingredients can also increase density of collagen and improve elastic fibres (increased skin suppleness and smoothness). In addition some may reduce the appearance of pore size, discolouration (or age spots), fine lines and also help treat acne . There are however a number of different ways to exfoliate the skin and not all methods and ingredients will deliver all of these benefits.
ARE THERE RISKS?
Exfoliation is a process that either injures the skin, prompting new skin to grow or removes the outermost layers, again promoting the growth of new skin cells. These skin cells will generally be more sensitive to sun damage, and depending on the depth of the exfoliation can result in new skin cells which have a different level of pigmentation from the old skin (may be an issue for people with darker skin colour). It may also involve some level of pain and discomfort. If you are using a gentle exfoliator at night and using sunscreen during the day you should be fine.
SHORT INTERLUDE
Many people think that putting acid on your skin is a bad thing. They would be wrong. The pH of the outer layers of the skin is between 5 and 6 depending on age and gender - so it is acidic. Putting products on
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the skin that are alkali or too acidic, will irritate the skin. That said, the skin does a good job of keeping things out of our body, so sometimes, we need to formulate certain products (usually) at low pH to penetrate it and deliver the relevant active ingredient… But let’s go back to exfoliation.
WHAT IS BEST, CHEMICAL OR PHYSICAL EXFOLIATION?
There does not seem to be any clinical data on which form of exfoliation is “best” (let’s take that to mean the most effective and the safest). Amongst the dermatologists we surveyed, the general view was that, given the risks of tearing and damaging the skin together with possible environmental harm from some physical exfoliants, that for home use, chemical exfoliation was the preferred option. Perhaps more importantly, the effects of exfoliation using chemical ingredients can be and have been more widely studied than physical exfoliation. So we can be very confident about the effectiveness and safety of chemical exfoliation.
WHAT DIFFERENT INGREDIENTS ARE THERE?
The group of ingredients which can exfoliate the skin are called Hydroxy acids and include, (in descending order of effectiveness and irritation) Glycolic, Lactic, Malic, Citric Acids, Tartaric (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) Gluconolactone (Polyhydroxy Acid) and Salicylic Acid (Beta Hyrdroxy Acid). They work primarily by dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells allowing the outermost layer of skin cells to be washed away. Of all the ingredients available, Glycolic acid has been studied the most and is the most effective. It is also the most irritating. In addition to the superficial exfoliating activity of Glycolic acid, it can also increase collagen synthesis , making the skin firmer and more supple. It can also reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots) and has been shown to increase the absorption and bioavailability of some other key active ingredients in skin care – particularly Retinal (see the [July 2015] article for why Retinal is the number 1 anti-aging ingredient you should have in your skin care regime). Lactic acid has also been well studied, is less irritating than Glycolic acid and is an effective exfoliation agent. Gluconolactone is less irritating still, but has limited evidence. Salicylic acid is an effective exfoliation agent particularly for hardened dry skin. It can also reduce sensitivity to UV radiation and well tolerated, but does not have many of the antiaging benefits of Glycolic acid. Sources of Hydroxy acids Unripe grapes (Glycolic acid) Milk (lactic acid) Blackberries (Salicylic acid)
IS MORE, BETTER?
While the data comparing the effects of hydroxy acids with its concentration are hard to piece together, there is no clear relationship between dose and response in the range from 3% to 15%. Above concentrations of 20 to 30% however, there are clear benefits particularly with superior results in decreased pigmentation and fine lines when compared to lower concentrations. (Products with these concentrations are reserved for in-clinic peels, not take home products)
CAN I OVERDO IT?
Sun sensitivity: Alpha Hydroxy acids can also increase sensitivity to the sun. So it is not recommended to use higher concentration peels too often and to ensure that the sun is avoided for at least a week after use. In lower concentrations (5% and less), the effect is less pronounced and the use of sunscreen during the day will provide sufficient protection. The Hayflick limit: was named after Leonard Hayflick after he discovered that most human cells have a limit on the number of times they can divide, before their telomeres become too short and they can no longer “rejuvenate”. While this concept does not apply directly to the process by which skin cells are created, there is a concern that the principle may apply and that by exfoliating and speeding up the rate of skin cell turnover (particularly using deep peels) that we will hasten the time at which our skin reaches its “use by date” and will age rapidly regardless of further exfoliation. This issue remains unresolved but is rendered less relevant with lower concentration products. pH and buffering: From a formulation point of view (and using a simple rule of thumb) where the concentration of hydroxy acids increases above 5%, the pH of the product will be too low (below 3), so a buffer is required for home use products. In one article looking at the interactions of alkali buffers with Hydroxy acids, the buffer (sodium hydroxide) neutralised the effect of the glycolic acid, rendering it ineffective .
SO WHAT DOES THAT ALL MEAN AND WHAT SHOULD I LOOK FOR IN AN EXFOLIATION PRODUCT
Based on the available evidence, we recommend - Using a chemical exfoliator in your daily skin care regime for use at night (and the use of a sunscreen during the day). - Look for a product with a total concentration of 5% hydroxy acids or less. - Key ingredients should include glycolic acid as well as at least one other hydroxy acid (eg. lactic acid). - Avoid products with an ingredient ending in “hydroxide” in the list (they had a high concertation and needed buffering). - If you have a sensitive skin, patch test the product. Exfoliation products can be irritating (especially for sensitive skin). For most skin types, tolerance can be easily built by initially reducing the amount and frequency of use and gradually building up. - Try the product for at least 1 week) and see how it feels when applied and how it makes your skin feel in the days afterwards. Then enjoy! Of all the products you use, this one will give you the quickest results for a smoother brighter skin. Daniel Rubinstein is the MD of ESK Care a highly effective, simple and easy to use, evidence based skin care range. ESK was cofounded by husband and wife team, Daniel and Dr Ginni Mansberg. Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 1
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EXOTIC BUTTERS & OILS from around the World By Nicole O’Sullivan
I love Australian Botanicals for skincare BUT of course there are some pretty amazing, exotic, skin loving plants elsewhere in this amazing world of ours. So I will start with my favourite butters which are so healing and calming not only for your skin but also for your hair.
Murumura Butter INCI Astrocaryum murumura is pressed from the reddish-orange fruits of this tall palm tree, native to Brazil and other regions of the Amazon. You will fiind Murumura butter in balms, creams, and lotions for hair and skin products. Murumuru Seed Butter’s unique composition of essential fatty acids and ProVitamin A help restore elasticity to damaged and ageing skin making it a particularly useful product in anti-ageing products. It is also a soothing addition for products intended to heal dry and cracked skin, eczema and psoriasis. Murumurs will work wonders on hair that is dry, damaged and brittle as it is super emollient and known to promote moisture retention, restore sheen and softness while improving the flexibility of your hair. Capuacu Butter INCI Theobroman Grandiflorum is a soft, nourishing emollient that comes from the cupuacu fruit tree – native to the northern Amazon. It is related to the cocoa tree from which cocoa beans ( chocolate ) come from and has been used for centuries in Brazil as a 30
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food. It improves the appearance of prematurely ageing and thinning skin while being a superior moisturizer with great water absorption – it is known as the vegetable version of lanolin. Cupuacu butter has high levels of essential fatty acids including Omega 9, polyphenols and phytosterols which increase your skin’s elasticity and improve the overall appearance of your skin. Again this exotic butter works wonders on dry and brittle hair as it replenishes the natural moisture and elasticity of the hair follicle leaving your hair as it does the skin – incredibly soft and smooth. Illipe Butter INCI Shorea Stenoptera comes from the Illipe tree in the forest of Borneo in the South Pacific. Illipe butter is very similar in skin nourishing benefits and texture as cocoa butter, but with a higher melting point. It has a high concentration of fatty acids, especially EFA’s and is known for long-lasting moisturizing and softening properties for hair and skin. Illipe’s triglyceride content closely resembles that of cocoa butter, but it has a higher melting point
and contains high amounts of tocopherols and phytosterols. It’s extremely helpful in the treatment of dry or over processed hair. Kokum Butter INCI Garcinia indica has been obtained from the fruit of the Indian tree (Garcinia indica). From its fruit kernals the butter is extracted and further processed and refined to obtain a white butter which has a very mild odor and is extremely hard. It is a natural emollient that has a long history of being used for its healing properties due to its ability to rejuvenate damaged skin cells. Of course it is kokum butters ability to rejuvenate the skin and restore skin flexibility that makes it such an important butter when it comes to treating damaged, aged skin. If you have sun damaged, dry skin the best product that you can add to your daily skincare Ritual is a carefully edited Face Oil or Serum. Oil based Serums have concentrated bio-actives such as CoQ10 and Vitamins A & C so these would be my choice. You can use these products after hydrating with a mist or Hyaluronic based serum or if your skin is super dry under your
favourite moisturiser. They can also be blended with your powder mineral make up of choice to create a radiance promoting foundation. So here are some of my favourite Exotic Oils. Babassu Oil INCI Orbignya Oleifera is cold pressed from the kernels of babassu nuts in the Amazon River Basin. The oil is high in lauric and myristic acids and similar to coconut oil in fact it is increasingly substituted in soaps and cosmetic formulation. I LOVE this semi solid oil and use it instead of coconut oil because babassu is not comedogenic like coconut oil is, it is also very well absorbed and not oily like coconut oil. lt’s super emollient which leaves a very pleasant feeling on skin and hair. It can also be used to provide a protective barrier against the climate and pollution and leaves the skin soft. Babassu Oil is also great for treating damaged dry hair as it contains glucosides, vitamins, and minerals that help soften hair and makes it supple. It’s believed to nourish, aid with moisture, and restore hair strength and elasticity. Giving you shiny, healthy looking hair. Tamanu Oil INCI Caalophyllum Inophyllum is a remarkable traditional remedy from Vanuatu cold pressed from the nut kernel of the Tamanu Tree. Tamanu Oil has a regenerative effect on the skin especially in the epidermis which is why it is such an effective healing oil. As we age our skin cell turnover slows so it is through this regenerative action on the skin that it is also revered for its anti-ageing properties. It is moisturizing ,nourishing and repairing in particular to the epidermal cells so reduces the appearance of wrinkles. This unique and traditional healing oil relieves a range of skin conditions, particularly healing for red, itchy and inflamed skin such as eczema as it also has anti septic properties and is used to treat acne. Studies have shown Tamanu Oil to significantly improve the appearance of scars and in particular scars that are more than one year old so is the oil to turn to for those pesky stretch marks. Tamanu oil also contains Sc Glucan which provides natural UV protection in that it prevents 85% of the DNA damage and oxidative stress induced by UV radiation and studies conducted in Japan have found that several isolated chemical compounds in Tamanu inhibit skin tumor production. Baobab Oil Collected from the the nuts of marula trees in Eastern Africa, marula oil is a sustainable product. The oil is high in palmitic acid which is protective for skin. It is used in anti-aging products as it’s high in fatty acids and anti-oxidants, absorbs quickly, and intensely hydrates to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Baobab oil is extracted from the seeds of the baobab tree, native to southern and eastern Africa. Known as the “upside-down” tree, the baobab is famous for its spindly, root-like branches. The oil is rich in vitamins A, D, E, and F and omega fatty acids. It’s very moisturizing and has been found to improve elasticity and fight free radicals. Baobab oil is also non-comedogenic.
Black Currant Oil INCI Ribes Nigrum Black currants are a fruit native to northern Europe. They are high in gamma linolenic acid, an essential fatty acid that is used to treat a number of skin conditions including psoriasis and eczema. Black currant oil is found in topical preparations and in supplements. According to Dr. Weil, taking black currant oil supplements, may help with thinning hair as well as promoting healthy skin and nails. Maracuja Oil This oil derived from a passion fruit variety native to Brazil and along the Amazon. Maracuja oil is anti-inflammatory and is used to treat acne, rosacea, and sun damage. By calming inflammation in skin less sebum is released and thus the likelihood of blocked pores and acne is greatly reduced. It’s loaded with vitamin C, making it a terrific skin brightener as well. With 80% of the essential fatty acid, linolenic acid, it’s ultra-moisturizing without being greasy. Because of its moisturising and antiinflammatory properties, Maracuja Oil has a balancing effect and is suitable for all skin types including sensitive, dry and oily skin. With its high antioxidant activity, Maracuja Oil is also reported to help counter fine lines and wrinkles. In addition to its topical use in skincare, Maracuja Oil can also be used as a massage oil helping to ease the pain of arthritic joints and muscle pain. It is great for scalp and hair conditions such as dandruff, itchy scalp and dry damaged hair. And for those of you who have damaged your nails from using acrylic nails Maracuja Oil helps with dry cuticles and strengthens weak, fragile nails Buriti Fruit Oil INCI Mauritia Flexuosa comes from the Moriche Palm tree in the Amazon. This exotic oil is the Richest natural source of beta carotene – known as an excellent natural antioxidant. It is this high natural beta carotene concentration that protects the skin against photo-damage and, also helps to protect the membranes surrounding skin cells, increases collagen production and hydration keeping the skin cells healthy longer. It is known to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, restore elasticity and help lighten dark spots caused by sun exposure. Now who doesn’t like the sound of that. wildcraftedorganics.com.au
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Questions for your
COSMETIC INJECTOR By April Jones
Cosmetic Injecting is fast becoming one of the most common treatments requested for anti ageing with the industry increasing ten fold over the last couple of years. Whilst there are a number or reputable nurse injectors and cosmetic injecting companies to choose from, it still remains important for salons and clinics to be educated about the services and the products that are going to be used in their treatment rooms. Before commencing with a nurse injector or doctor in clinic it is important firstly that their registration and licence to practice is current and up to date. This can be found by visiting www.ahpra.com.au and searching under either nurses or doctors for medical registration. Below is a list of common questions that will assist with gaining knowledge about the injectors experience and training: 1. Do they have medical expertise in facial anatomy? For instance, are they licensed and trained in a field of aesthetic medicine, such as dermatology or cosmetic surgery. 2. How many years of experience do they have injecting? 3. How often do they treat patients with anti-wrinkle and filler? 4. Do they schedule a follow-up visit after treatment? 5. Will they show you before-and-after pictures of other patients they have treated? 6. What are the most common side effects they have seen in their clinical experience? 7. What should you do if you experience any side effects? 8. What do they need to know about your medical history? Clients should be prepared to tell their injector about any medical conditions, including any prescription medications, vitamins, or herbal supplements you are taking. Client information that must be provided to the Cosmetic Injector • All medications taken, including prescription and nonprescription medicines, vitamins, and herbal products. Clients must let their injector know if they have been treated with a botulinum toxin product in the last 4 months and whether they 32
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experienced any allergies or side effects • Any medical conditions, including any muscle or nerve conditions such as ALS or Lou Gehrig’s disease, myasthenia gravis, or Lambert-Eaton syndrome. Clients must inform their injector if they have had any swallowing or breathing problems in the past. • Any plans to have surgery on the face or recent surgery. The injector should also be told if the client has weakness in the forehead muscles, have trouble raising their eyebrows, or have drooping eyelids • If the client is pregnant or plan to become pregnant or if they are nursing or plan to nurse Anti Wrinkle Injections and dermal filler when administered correctly can have a positive and rejuvenating effect but its always necessary to remember that it is a prescription S4 regulated drug for a reason. Though contraindications to anti wrinkle and dermal filler are not common, an educated overview on the risks involved are worth being aware of. Below are some of the (less common) but issues that can arise with anti wrinkle injections: Anti Wrinkle injections are a prescription medicine that is injected into muscles and used to temporarily improve the look of both moderate to severe crow’s feet lines and frown lines between the eyebrows in adults. Anti Wrinkle injections may cause serious side effects that can be life threatening. Get medical help right away if any of these problems are identified any time (hours to weeks) after injection of anti wrinkle products: Problems swallowing, speaking, or breathing, due to weakening of associated muscles, can be severe and result in loss of life. You are at the highest risk if these problems are pre-existing before injection. Swallowing problems may last for several months Spread of toxin effects. The effect of botulinum toxin may affect areas away from the injection site and cause serious symptoms including: loss of strength and all-over muscle weakness, double vision, blurred vision and drooping eyelids, hoarseness or change or loss of voice,
trouble saying words clearly, loss of bladder control, trouble breathing, trouble swallowing There has not been a confirmed serious case of spread of toxin effect when Anti Wrinkle injections have been used at the recommended dose to treat frown lines, crow’s feet lines, or both at the same time. Anti Wrinkle injections may cause loss of strength or general muscle weakness, vision problems, or dizziness within hours to weeks of having treatment. If this happens, do not drive a car, operate machinery, or do other dangerous activities. Serious and/or immediate allergic reactions have been reported. They include: itching, rash, red itchy welts, wheezing, asthma symptoms, or dizziness or feeling faint. Get medical help right away if you are wheezing or have asthma symptoms, or if you become dizzy or faint. Tell your doctor about all the medicines you take, including prescription and nonprescription medicines, vitamins, and herbal products. Using Anti Wrinkle injections with certain other medicines may cause serious side effects. Do not start any new medicines until you have told your doctor that you have received Anti Wrinkle injections in the past. Tell your injector if you have received any other botulinum toxin product in the last 4 months; have recently received an antibiotic by injection; take muscle relaxants; take an allergy or cold medicine; take a sleep medicine; take aspirin-like products or blood thinners. Other side effects of Anti Wrinkle injections can include: discomfort or pain at the injection site; headache; and eye problems: double vision, blurred vision, drooping eyelids, and swelling of your eyelids. Being aware of the level of education, risks and contraindications for injectable treatments are important if you currently, or are thinking about, employing the services of a cosmetic injector. Even though they are practicing under their own registration and insurance they are treating your clients within your business and knowing the right questions to ask will ensure safe and successful treatments.
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2017 NON SURGICAL SYMPOSIUM Gold Coast 22-25th June
The Australasian Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons (ASAPS), Cosmetic Physicians College of Australasia (CPCA), the Australasian Society of Cosmetic Dermatologists (ASCD), and the New Zealand Society of Cosmetic Medicine (NZSCM) invite you to join them at what is undoubtedly the premier educational event for non-surgical aesthetics in Australasia – the 2017 Non-Surgical Symposium, 22 to 25 June at the Gold Coast Convention and Exhibition Centre. For the first time this year they are excited to welcome members of the ASCD as official partners of the meeting. This is a multidisciplinary field and to combine all of the key elements into the one symposium is what gives this meeting its vibrant feel and outstanding program. The meeting continues to grow and both the 2015 NSS and 2016 NSS in Melbourne were sold out.
SAFETY & SCIENCE
This year the Symposium will move to the Gold Coast with a focus on Safety and Science. The doors will be opened to all medical practitioners performing non-surgical rejuvenation and their staff. They will be welcoming plastic surgeons, dermatologists, cosmetic doctors and other doctors performing 34
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medical aesthetic treatments. Staff including nurse aestheticians, dermal therapists and practice staff are also welcome to attend. The primary ingredient ensuring ongoing value and relevance is unchanged: independent presentations by a long list of international and leading local presenters on state of the art concepts and practice in the non-surgical rejuvenation sector.
WHAT WILL BE COVERED?
The Non-Surgical Symposium will again cover the entire spectrum on appearance medicine, from injectables, through to skin care, including laser/light devices and non-surgical body contouring tools. A lot has happened in the last year to bring everyone up to speed on. The Symposium will have an extraordinary array of speakers many who haven’t been to
Australian meetings previously. Organisers have been working hard to make the program interactive with a focus on expert discussions. In 2016 the team introduced video injecting (rather than live injecting), so that they can make the process more efficient with better images and a more interactive learning experience. Science is the focus but not forgetting the networking and the social program of the NonSurgical Symposium. The Gala dinner will be more laid back than last years black tie gala but will retain all the bells, whistles, and glowing gloves that we have come to both love and expect of the Non Surgical Symposium. With 2015 & 2016 events sold out, spaces are limited once again in 2017, so register early to avoid disappointment. www.nonsurgical.org.au
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MEDI & AESTHETICS
WOUNDS & THE NORMAL HEALING PROCESS By Bonnie Fraser
Wound healing is the process of the body replacing devitalised and/or missing tissue in order to fill a cavity and repair damaged skin. This typically occurs in a coordinated fashion along a healing continuum, a process taking up to two years. During this time wounds are vulnerable to repeated trauma and breakdown and should be protected where possible. Across the spectrum of health care settings health professionals face the challenge of difficult, hard to heal wounds in addition to the uncomplicated wound that heals as expected. In order to facilitate healing it is important for nurses to not only recognise 36
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the stage of healing but to recognise when a wound is failing to heal. In this article we will look at the types of healing intention, some of the factors that influence wound healing and revisit the stages of wound healing.
TYPES OF HEALING
There are three types of healing intention: healing by primary or secondary closure and
delayed primary closure (or tertiary closure). Some may be familiar with the terms first, second and third intention healing respectively. In the acute care setting, the majority of wounds heal by primary intention where wound edges are easily approximated and held in place with various closure materials such as sutures, staples, glue or steri-strips. These wounds are generally clean, uncontaminated or non-infected wounds
with minimal tissue defects. Surgical wounds, clean cuts and lacerations are examples of such wounds. These wounds have minimal scarring as there is no tissue defect and new dermal tissue is only required to fill the gap across the closely aligned wound edges. Wounds healing by secondary intention are typically chronic wounds, wounds with large tissue defects or wounds that cannot be easily closed due to the degree of skin loss. Healing occurs more slowly by granulation (growth of new tissue to fill a cavity), wound contraction (to close the wound) and re-epithelialisation (growth of new skin) of the wound surface. These wounds usually result in lager scar tissue formation as new skin must grow across a larger area. Pressure injuries, diabetic ulcers, leg ulcers and dehisced wounds are examples of wounds healing by secondary intention. Some wounds may require delayed closure due to infection, the need for debridement or formation of new granulation tissue to cover exposed fascia, bone or tendon prior to definitive or primary closure. This type of healing is commonly referred to a delayed primary closure or tertiary closure. The need for a skin graft is an example where delayed primary closure may be required. Primary closure may occur up to 7 days after cleansing or debridement of the wound bed and where infection is adequately treated.
FACTORS AFFECTING WOUND HEALING
A myriad of factors can slow down or impair healing notwithstanding age, illness, complex disease processes, medications, psychological or social factors, or a combination of any of these. Any condition that reduces perfusion to the wound bed will impair healing for example vascular disease (arterial disease or chronic venous insufficiency) and chronic airways disease (e.g. emphysema, asthma or lung cancer) while rheumatoid arthritis, diabetes and age impact wound healing through altered cellular mechanisms involved in the healing process.
The peri-operative period, surgical procedure and post-operative pain in particular can create stress and anxiety which induce physiological responses that interfere with healing processes. Similarly, psychosocial factors such as the lack of social and family support networks, loss of independence, depression and poverty initiate the same stress responses that delay healing. Locally wound characteristics also influence reparative processes. Tissue type, infection and inflammation, moisture balance, wound edges, wound temperature and the capacity of the microcirculation to deliver oxygen to the wound bed and surrounding tissues all impact on healing.
THE WOUND HEALING PROCESS
Regardless of the type of wound the same basic physiological principles apply to how wounds heal. Generally there are three stages in the wound healing process although some authors tend to separate haemostasis and inflammation. The wound healing occurs though a continuum and comprises haemostasis, inflammation, proliferation and maturation (or remodelling). Immediately post injury blood vessels at the site of the injury will firstly constrict to reduce blood flow to the area. Collagen fibres are exposed at the site of damaged vascular tissue which trap platelets, which in turn release chemicals that make nearby platelets sticky and clump together to form a platelet plug resulting in clot formation. The inflammatory phase occurs simultaneously where vasoconstriction is followed by vasodilation increasing blood flow to the damaged site with an influx of macrophages and neutrophils which begin to clean the wound removing debris, bacteria, damaged cells and devitalised tissue readying the site for the next stage of healing. The inflammatory phase is characterised by the cardinal signs heat, pain, redness and swelling and usually will lasts from zero to three days depending on the nature of the wound and other patient characteristics but will continue until the wound bed has been adequately prepared for the next stage of the healing, the proliferative phase.
The proliferative phase usually occurs from between three days to approximately three weeks (again depending on the nature of the wound and patient factors that may limit healing). It is during this phase that new blood vessels are created (angiogenesis) and new tissue in the form of extra cellular matrix, primarily composed of collagen and elastin, is produced to fill the wound cavity over which new skin will grow (epithelialisation). Collagen and elastin together provide tensile strength and elasticity to newly formed skin. Once the wound is repaired the final phase of wound healing, the maturation phase begins. This phase, lasting up to two years involves wound contraction and remodelling of newly formed collagen to produce scar tissue. Remember it is during this phase the wound remain vulnerable to breakdown though repeated insult especially wounds healing by secondary intention such as dehisced wounds, pressure ulcers, diabetic foot ulcers and leg ulcers and subsequently should be protected at all times. It is important for nurses to understand the type of healing intention and to recognise the stage of reparation and its progression to gauge whether wounds are healing as they should. Knowledge of the clinical signs of inflammation and/or infection such as new or increased pain, prolonged inflammation, new or spreading erythema, an increase in exudate or change in exudate colour with or without odour, change in colour of the wound or increased temperature will ensure prompt review of the patient. Infected wounds and wounds stuck in the inflammatory stage are unable to progress through the healing continuum. Thorough wound assessment and investigations are required to determine the reason why wounds won’t heal. Accurate identification of the stage of healing allows nurses to develop appropriate wound management plans to protect the wound and facilitate healing. If in doubt always refer your patient to the wound specialist and/or request a clinical review.
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HEALTH
SKIN DEFENCE OVER 45 By Anni Diamond
The first line of defence against pathogens is the immune system and this wears down as we get older. But you can support your immune system, giving it the right nutrition and tools to help it give you a longer, healthier and vibrant life. Although heart disease is the number one killer in the over 65’s, poor function of the immune system gives rise to infections such as pneumonia and chest infections, and infections are the 3rd largest cause of death (after cancer) in the age group 55-65, and the 4th largest cause of death in the over 65’s.
under biofilms etc.
Cancer remains a big part of the early death rate, and this, too, is associated with poor immune function.
Acquired, or adaptive immunity happens when these macrophages have ‘antigen-presented’ after having consumed the invader. This means they have given small protein particles of the pathogen to the other immune cells, so that they, too, can recognise and destroy the invader. This is also known as the immune cascade, and it is the macrophages that play the primary role in this.
Our senior generation are constantly told to vaccinate against flu, pneumonia, shingles etc, but up to 75% of them do not form a proper response to vaccines, and the vaccines end up giving no defence against the pathogen described on the label. Keeping the immune system working optimally helps to maintain a healthy longevity. If the immune system is not working well, it makes no difference if every other part of your body is in good condition – you may face a rapid decline. The immune system is divided into two distinct actions, innate immunity and acquired immunity. Innate immunity requires intact barriers, in the intestinal tract, the skin, the mouth, the nose, the lungs – anywhere that bacteria and pathogens will try to get in to enjoy your moist, warm, nutritious environment. These membranes are lined with immunoglobulins, mainly white blood cells and macrophages. These interact with pathogens at the source, and then let other white cells, such as T cells, B cells and NK (Natural Killer) cells, know of the threat. Sometimes, through injections, insect bites and wounds, the pathogens are able to avoid the macrophages that line the skin, going straight into the bloodstream where they quickly replicate and go into hiding in joints, muscle, 38
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Other pathogens, such as influenza, have very quick replication rate and simply swamp the immune system briefly. In the majority of cases the recovery will be fairly rapid, but where the immune system is depressed, the recovery may be difficult.
As we get older, the stores of our white cells diminish. As we go through life, we encounter a large number of pathogens, and rather than maintaining large armies of T and B cells, we form memory cells. These cells recognise particular pathogens and, when we are next exposed to them, they send signals to the unformed white cells, triggering them to start making antibodies. These memory cells also diminish with age. Senescence is the term applied to aged and dysfunctional cells. Immunosenescence is the gradual deterioration of the immune cells. As we age, our ‘lifelong-immunity’ to pathogens such as chickenpox, or our ease of dealing with seemingly mild viruses such as influenza, become much more of a dangerous issue in older people. This is because the body’s housekeeping has gone out of balance, and there are not enough active white cells to mount an effective response. Reversing senescence is possible. All organs of the body are adversely affected by lifetime habits of poor diet and nutritional deficiencies, none more so than the skin. Giving
rise to wrinkles and tired, sagging skin, cysts, cancers and more, immunosenescence of the skin can be reversed using targeted nutrition that ‘wakes up’ the immune cells that line the skin. Using a specific protein commonly known as gcmaf, and well documented in many science papers for its ability to mediate the immune system in cancers and other immune actions, MAFActive Radiance skin cream offers deep seated nutrition to your cells, helping to balance your immune performance. The improved immune balance in the epidermis helps to remove aged and damaged cells, reducing wrinkles and imperfections. Customer feedback for this product to date has been phenomenal. Not only does it help with wrinkles, cysts, boils and skin imperfections, it has been reported to clear cancer, help with immune suppression in conditions as varied as autism, CFS and Lyme disease, helps with the aches and pains associated with joint issues, neutralise the pain of insect stings and burns in minutes, as well as many other applications. Some of this is collected at www.creamfeedback. weebly.com MAFActive Radiance Skin Cream is available in Australia from distributors listed at www. mafactive.com.au Oncology Esthetics expert and author, Morag Currin saw a gap in the circle of care in the world of cancer where patients are psychologically devastated by both inward and outward side effects of the disease, and treatment. Her mission is to continue to build awareness and a positive outcome for this modality in both the spa, medical and breast cancer community. For further information: www.oti-oncologytraining.com
HEALTH
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WHY YOUR GUT MAY BE THE ANSWER TO THOSE BREAKOUTS! By Yoko Inoue
While your first instinct to achieving a healthy, glowing complexion is nailing your skincare regimen - there’s another aspect of your body that is equally important - and that’s your gut. What you put in your mouth impacts so many elements outside your stomach. Food and alcohol not only influences your digestive system and overall health, but it plays a significant role in the health of your body’s largest organ - your skin. Coming off the back of the silly season, we tend to notice that our skin doesn’t look as clear or as fresh as it usually does. Your complexion may seem dull or lifeless, and a stubborn break out is all part and parcel of over indulging. But this can all be prevented by refuelling your body with fresh, wholesome foods and plenty of water. There are so many talks around digestion these days, but it is connected to your skin also. The main function of our skin is to act as a protective barrier. Gut inflammation can interfere with normal function of epidermal barrier. It also influences lipids and tissue fatty acid profiles as well as sebum production. Our skin does not need to be stripped clean. We need the lipid barrier to protect and retain moisture. The acid mantle on your skin can fight off bad bacteria that can cause acne. We need friendly flora that are a vital part of the immune system. 1. Start with a good probiotic – A good probiotic is a great starting point for promoting good gut health and skin. Great for the digestive system, a good probiotic assists in decreasing yeast and urinary infections, bloating, strengthening your immune system, promoting healthier skin and weight loss. Taking probiotic supplements is an easy but even more effective and cheaper way to include probiotic element is to include fermented foods in your diet. Try fermented vegetables such as kimchi, sauerkraut, as well as fermented beverages such as coconut kefir, kombucha. 2. Diet high in prebiotic and fibre - Fibre is important for our digestive health and regular bowel movement. There are three types of fibre (soluble, insoluble fibre and resistant starch) and they all have different functions and health benefits. Make sure you are eating plenty of vegetables and fruits as well as proper prepared whole grains and legumes (if you are not grain or legume free). 40
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3. The obvious one – Water. You’ve heard it all before, but H2O is one of life’s cheapest and greatest pleasures. Water helps keep your skin plump when hydrated, it not only helps keep your skin clear, it flushes out all the bad toxins. Water also helps maintain a normal bowel function which is highly important for overall health. 4. Boot the sugar – Sugar is not only bad for weight loss, but it also has a big impact on your skin. Excess consumption of sugar can result in major break outs and dullness. Indulging in foods with a high-glycemic value can result in raising your insulin levels which produces enzymes that breaks down our skins natural elastin. 5. Omega 3 – Omega 3 is not only great for heart and brain health it is shown to decrease inflammation and other skin conditions by decreasing insulin like growth factor. When it comes to omega 3 it is essential to watch the ratio of omega 3 and omega 6 as too much omega 6 can create inflammatory skin conditions. 6. Keep it green and clean – Vegetables are full of antioxidants and vitamins which is not only good for your skin but your over health as well. Including fruits and vegetables like avocados and sweet potatoes, which are both high in Vitamin E, is great for fighting the effects of ageing and also protects your skin’s membrane from UV damage. Vegetables such as broccoli and other leafy greens are rich in vitamin C which assists immunity and potentially slowing down the ageing process, as well as sulfur which is necessary for collagen synthesis which provides structure and strength to the skin. 7. Herbs that clear up your skin – Not one supplement or herb can work all the skin conditions. The most important thing is determine what is causing your skin problems.
Here are a few herbs that may help you: - Camomile - Peppermint - Rosehip - Dokudami - Dandelion - Burdock - Pearl - Aloe Vera - Schisandra berries - Goji berry - Chrysanthemum Yoko Inoue is the founder of Shokuiku, a place to learn and experience a new dynamic way of eating, with a philosophy based on raw and living food cuisine, enhanced with contemporary and traditional idea of macrobiotic and Chinese philosophy. Shokuiku integrates the knowledge from both East Asian tradition and modern nutrition. From smoothies with super foods and super herbs, tonic teas, elixirs, freshly made salad and raw desserts, our meals are always nurturing and loving to your body, soul, and of course your taste-buds! Only the finest healing organic/biodynamic ingredients are used and sourced sustainably, with emphasis on raw vegetables, fruits, fermented and whole natural foods. Shokuiku is also a place to be educated and appreciate the power of nature. Promoting healthy and ethical food choices is a core vision and regular raw food classes in the café are offered as well as online. www.shokuikuaustralia.com
Want to learn more about introducing Cosmetic Injectables into your salon?
Fresh Cosmetic Injectables Fresh Cosmetic Injectables work with you to introduce Cosmetic Injectables in your salon/clinic business, with your own Nurse, Medical Director, training, business and marketing support + more. www.freshcosmeticinjectables.com.au Email april@freshcosmeticinjectables.com.au
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SPA PROFILE
SUMPTUOUS SURROUNDS, LUXURIOUS TREATMENTS & PREMIUM PRODUCTS
A new era of indulgence unfolds at Crown Spa Perth
Bringing to Perth the signature Crown Spa philosophy, Crown Spa transports guests to another level of relaxation in its calm and glamorous sanctuary as part of Crown Towers Perth, opened 1 December 2016. Crown Spa Perth’s exclusive treatments are showcased within opulent surrounds and offer a tranquil oasis from the demands of everyday life. As sister-spa to the famed Crown Spa Melbourne, the architecturally designed spa boasts 13 opulent, aqua-hued treatment rooms, vitality pools tiled in gold and platinum, marble showers and beautifully curtained relaxation zones where guests can indulge in Crown Spa’s famous signature treatments. Reminiscent of traditional Roman bath houses, designer Blainey North drew inspiration from the refraction of light underwater when looking up towards the sun to create an oasis and provide a relaxing retreat for guests. Crown Spas Director, Emma McGrady said it’s a privilege to be a part of such an important and 42
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exciting milestone for Perth’s spa and wellness industry.
body and mind, and is followed by a Caviar Lift facial to nourish and revitalise.
“With its sumptuous, architecturally designed surrounds, industry leading practitioners, and luxurious treatments from La Prairie and Subtle Energies, Crown Spa Perth is set to be the next leading spa destination,” said McGrady.
Partnering with Australian brand, Subtle Energies, Crown Spa will offer guests treatments with an Aromatherapy focus that delivers natural skincare and wellness body solutions, founded on authentic Ayurveda principles.
Crown Spa Perth will be the first spa on the West Coast to offer the famed treatments by international skincare brand, La Prairie. Guests will find within the spa menu, indulgent treatments including the Caviar Lift facial and the highly coveted Platinum Rare facial which is infused with pure platinum and uses two therapists to perform the balance restoring, rejuvenating treatment.
A range of Subtle Energies facials including the Soothe and Enrich Antioxidant and body treatments including the Rasayana Detox body wrap, the Pearl Infused Remineralising body mask and the Crown Spa exclusive, Blissful Marma massage are available at Crown Spa Perth.
Also offered exclusively to Crown Spa are three decadent La Prairie body treatments including the Caviar Luxury Body treatment, Hot Stone massage and Swiss Bliss. The luxurious Swiss Bliss treatment begins with a full body exfoliation and Caviar Body massage, enveloping your
Guests can choose from a variety of treatment room experiences including the Indulgence Suite perfect for couples, an aroma steam room, a Roman hot tub, sauna, private relaxation areas and state-of-the-art fitness centre. www.crowntowersperth.com.au
-Super Hair Removal ( S H R ) Te c h n o l o g y
Are you passionate about changing your customers lives through beauty? Offer your clients the fastest journey to their dream results with patented and clinically proven technologies by the inventors of SHR! Alma Remove – SHR Patented Laser Hair Removal Machine Safest hair removal technology for all skin types Before • In-Motion and GlactialTech Cooling • SHR designed to minimize risk of injury to the skin regardless of pigment level • Full support solution Courtesy of Alma Lasers
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Phone NOW 1300 766 198 For Limited Time Price Alma Lasers, a trusted global leader in the medical aesthetics sector Distributed by Spectrum Science & Beauty 1300 766 198 sales@spectrumsciencebeauty.com.au www.spectrumsciencebeauty.com.au
ear larger due to the upward swing. Therefore the look becomes softer, pleasant and enhan eyes. The application is incredibly easy and the effect long lasting, up to 6 weeks. Due to th edients > collagen and cysteine the eyelashes are nutured while being curled. The gentle form es the application possible, even for fine eyelashes.
PROFILE
NTENT: Lash Perm 3.5ml tubes Neutraliser 3.5ml tubes Glue 4ml - NEW PACKAGING Application Stick Mini Cosmetic Dishes Cosmetic Brushes x Eyelash Rollers per size S,M,L,XL
CRUSHING ON CURLS
LICATION: emove contact lenses. Cleanse the eye area with Refectocil Saline Solution, remove any oil om eyelashes and eyelids. Pat dry. Briefly brush the lashes to separate them. elect the roller size depending on length and desired curl. ttach roller: Bend the self-adhesive roller until it forms a shape which corresponds with the urvature of the eyelid. ix lashes on eyelash rollers. For resistant or shorter lashes apply glue. pply Giving Lash Perm Solution A breathtaking, but natural look, Refectocil Eyelash Curl, curls lashes pply allowing Neutraliser eyes to appear larger. Due to the special formula, eyelashes are nurtured, emove rollers, dry and eye the area. the eyelash application is easy effect lasts up to six weeks. Whether the lashes are ailed long information: package insert. or short see - with 4 different roller sizes, you can offer your clients the perfect curl.
CONTENT: Lee Fran Beauty Imports P/L - LFBI QLD Ph: 0755 250• desired 888 curl. orders@lfbi.com.au Attach roller: Bend the self-adhesive roller
The design may have changed, but the effect has not! Giving amazingly, expressive eyes and a glamorous look - Refectocil Eyelash Curl opens the eyes and lets them appear larger due to the upward swing. This beautiful look becomes softer, pleasant and enhances the eyes. The application is incredibly easy and the effect is long lasting - up to 6 weeks.
Due to the ingredients collagen and cysteine, the eyelashes are nurtured while being curled. The gentle formula makes the application possible, even for fine eyelashes. 44
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2 x Lash Perm 3.5ml tubes 2 x Neutraliser 3.5ml tubes 1 x Glue 4ml - NEW PACKAGING 1 x Application Stick 2 x Mini Cosmetic Dishes 2 x Cosmetic Brushes 18 x Eyelash Rollers per size S,M,L,XL
Application is easy with the following steps • Remove contact lenses. Cleanse the eye area with Refectocil Saline Solution, remove any oil from eyelashes and eyelids. Pat dry. Briefly brush the lashes to separate them. • Select the roller size depending on length and
until it forms a shape, which corresponds with the curvature of the eyelid. • Fix lashes on eyelash rollers. For resistant or shorter lashes apply glue. • Apply Lash Perm Solution • Apply Neutraliser • Remove eyelash rollers, dry eye area.
www.refectocil.com.au
your beauty journey...
Experience the Italian Fashion
nancy
Anthony Nader Salon Nancy Styling Chair
lunaire
pluto
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c
Beauty Trolleys a.
b
a forma
speed up processor
typhoon no net dryer
3Shelf b. Lotus c. 2Drawers d. Iris atomix steamer
Beauty Shop
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1. Perfect Partners by Aromatherapy Associates This wonderful bath oil duo, which is presented in a charming metallic gold box, combines small versions of two of Aromatherapy Associates’ most popular Bath & Shower Oils, Revive Morning and Deep Relax. Revive Morning contains a zesty blend of pink grapefruit, rosemary and juniper berry to awaken the senses and help clear a bleary mind. The highly acclaimed Deep Relax combines vetivert, camomile and sandalwood to calm a busy mind and help aid a peaceful night’s sleep. Each bottle contains up to three bath or shower experiences. Add two capfuls to a full bath or massage over your torso before showering. www.aromatherapyassociates.com.au 2. Creative Colours by Refectocil Specifically designed to match eyebrows and lashes to this seasons new and exciting hair colours however daring. Refectocil Blonde, Blue, Purple, Chestnut and Red allows you to get Creative with your clients. www.refectocil.com.au
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3. Hydr8 Eye 360 by Hydr8 Eye 360 Introducing Hydr8 Eye 360, the latest innovation from Medik8. An elegant all-in-one anti-ageing eye cream formulated for everyday protection with multiple active ingredients to help protect against everyday environmental factors. Key features are: SPF 15, 5* UVA protection and advanced infrared protection. To help protect the delicate eye area from pigmentation, loss of collagen and the formation of fine lines and wrinkles. www.medik8.com.au
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4. Cute Gifts from Alma Custom Designs Looking for a gift range for in salon? Luckily, our Aussie friends at Alma Custom Designs have developed a range of fun, thoughtful and unexpected gifts to make expecting mothers feel as special as they should this summer. As individual items or packaged in a beautiful gift-set, Alma Custom Designs offers beautiful décor items as well as fun and funky gifts for mums and dads-tobe. With candles, door hangers, ornaments, fun Mummy and Daddy milestone cards and gorgeous unique prints, Alma Custom Designs have thought of everything when it comes to gifting the expecting with the unexpected. www.almacustomdesigns.com 5. NEW MonoLight LED for Brows, Lashes & Nails by Glamcor The incredibly sleek and elegant solution for nail and lash technicians. The Glamcor Mono Light is a single, powerfully bright, new daylight lamp. With two dimming settings, the LED technology is packed into this beautiful design, and it is geared to provide premium illumination. The Light provides cool LED lights, with a colour balance so it doesn’t distort the client’s complexion or hair. Available with Table Clamp. www.comfortel.com.au
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6. Quattro by Comfortel The highly adaptable treatment table that is designed to deliver any treatment, Comfortel’s Quatro is the perfect clinical treatment table. Includes Electric height adjustment suitable for massage, facials and advanced beauty treatments while the retractable castors that can make moving the table easy. The Quatro can be tailored to suit any style of treatment with removable face cradle at the end of the table, removable arms, face pillow and plug. www.comfortel.com.au
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7. Earth Mask by Lee Holmes Lee Holmes is an Australian natural health advocate, nutritionist, whole food chef and author of six bestselling books. Lee advocates nature over chemicals and processed ingredients. Lee’s ideal combination is a blend of highest grade Diatomaceous Earth from the USA and Lightning Ridge Volcamin. It works as both a face mask and gentle scrub. Earth mask leaves the skin instantly nourished, feeling softer and looking more radiant www.superchargedfood.com
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8. 1SKIN Natural Fusion Foundation by MARIE ENNE-COCCIOLONE “It has always been my dream to add a mineral pigment to my active skincare. I say to you, CONSIDER IT DONE!” Made in Italy (when only the best will do) with 97% natural ingredients and mineral pigment, 1SKIN Natural Fusion Foundation and Lotus Skin Primer offers performance power in a new generation treatment foundation that ensures healthy and flawless skin. www.inskincosmedics.com.au 9. Lilly Pilly & Lime Gradual Tanner by Endota Spa Enriched with powerful native ingredients and hydrating aloe vera, this certified organic gradual tanning lotion moisturises skin while building a natural-looking, sun-kissed tan every day. In addition to the Organics range, endota spa COLOUR™ mineral make-up is made from native, mineral and naturally active ingredients that have been crushed into powders and formulated without harmful substances like preservatives, oil, artificial waxes and talc. All products in the endota spa COLOUR™ range are fragrance free, suitable for all skin types and not tested on animals. www.endotspa.com.au
10. Cover Recover™ by DP Dermaceuticals™ Cover Recover’s versatility is more than just medical camouflage. Cover Recover revolutionises the concept of corrective camouflage to nurture post-procedure conditions ravished by inflammation, redness, discomfort and heat. As an everyday product, it delivers SPF, moisture protection, skin correction and coverage in one. Offering a global approach following any procedure, Cover Recover™ by DP Dermaceuticals™ is for EVERY TREATMENT, EVERY SKIN, EVERY DAY. DermapenWorld.com 11. Hi Lift Wax Pro Wax Heaters by M&U Imports The Hi Lift Wax Pro family of wax heaters provide a simple and convenient wax heating solution at a competitive price. Featuring an ergonomic, compact design and a high performance heating system with variable temperature control, Hi Lift Wax Pro Wax Heaters are an asset to any beauty salon. The 500ml and 1000ml Wax Heaters boast removable inserts and an easy fit drip ring making cleaning a breeze. The 200ml Wax Heater is perfect for small work stations, mobile salons or make-up artists and features a 200ml well and a stylish black finish. Hi Lift Wax Pro Wax Heaters can be used with all wax types. www.muimports.com.au 12. Ginger and Me The Ginger and Me range launches with 16 products, 3 to die for fragrances and 3 messages of inspiration (Today I Choose to be: Brave, Happy, Grateful) that create a foundation for sisters around the world to be kind to themselves and each other too! Each of the 3 lines includes a light and fast absorbing body oil spray, luxurious body butter, a decadent and yummy sugar scrub, a whitening and nourishing hand cream and a lip plumping and luscious lip balm AND a fruit acid body peel. www.gingerandme.com
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TANNING
Naked Tan’s Chocolate Bronzing Mousse! Naked Tan has released a chocolate tanning mouse that is sure to give an ultra dark tan in just 2 hrs! This gorgeous chocolate mousse is 15% DHA and will give consumers a deep chocolate tan result without needing to wait overnight. This product is streak-free, fragranced with their signature vanilla & coconut scent and will give the skin a deep bronzed tan. Innovate your business by providing your clients with at-home tanning products to take your business to the next level. This will add value to your in-salon service by extending customer tans and increasing salon sales.
LYCO-BRONZE Rapid Spray Tan
www.nakedtan.com.au
LYCON LYCO-BRONZE Rapid Spray Tan is a professional spray tan that offers a natural-looking tan in one hour and a deep bronze in up to four hours. The formula contains 10 per cent plant-derived DHA, erythrulose and bio-melanin (a natural pigment) for a streak-free tan. Additional botanicals nourish the skin and leave it silky smooth.
http://lycon.com.au/distributors
Silk Tanning Mitts Pelactiv Silk Tanning Mitts are silk mitts that assist in the easy application of fake tan, offering a flawless finish. Re-usable and washable, the double-sided foam mitts protect the hands from staining. Suitable to use with creams, gels, mousses and lotions.
www.pelactiv.com
Bombshell by Ethique Ethique Bombshell is a solid self-tanning bar that leaves skin smooth, golden and streak-free. It contains a bronzer for instant results, and to make it easier to apply. The formula contains both erythrulose and DHA for the perfect colour, with no orange tones. Each bar is equivalent to two bottles of liquid tanner. Ideal for light to medium skin tones.
www.ethiquebeauty.com
Minx Bronzing & Cosmetics Announce an exciting 2017
New Summer Range by Kaf. Tanned Kaf.Tanned has brought the goods this Summer with their new range sparking bright bold colours and flowy garments. These kaftans were specially made to wear after your spray-tan but are also the perfect addition to your hot summers day! Beach wear, resort wear and poolside hangs – Kaf.Tanned has your outfit set!
Check out their collection 48
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www.kaftanned.com.au
Minx have a number of new projects this year including the announcement of Minx Masterclasses around Australia. The first of these will be held on the Gold Coast and they are to provide a fabulous days support for all of their salon brand partners. They will give salon owners a key opportunity for education but also the opportunity to mingle with other like minded owners. They have also introduced AfterPay via their website which is a 4 simple interest free instalments & the best bit your order is shipped straight away. With the launch of the Luxe Body Collection and the re-introduction of best selling Dark Ganache during February it will be a busy year for the brand.
www.missmbyminx.com.au
FREE
MARKETING MATERIAL
INNOVATE YOUR BUSINESS IN
2017
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MAKE UP
Tinted Undereye and Lid Smoother by Bioelements Bioelements Tinted Undereye and Lid Smoother is a lightweight soothing undereye treatment which neutralises dark circles and blurs fine lines. The natural pigments float over skin, brightening the eye area. Contains Bioelements exclusive maribright complex, a blend of marigold, golden seal and eyebright botanical extracts to heal, calm and soothe the eye area.
www.absolutespa.com.au
Hello Brows Hello Brows is an oil formulated to encourage the growth of healthier, fuller-looking brows. It is comprised of certified organic, skincare-grade oils including Moroccan rosemary oil which when applied, helps stimulate blood circulation to the area for fast, healthy hair growth; black castor oil which has natural antibacterial and antifungal properties and is high in vitamin E, minerals, proteins and omega-6 and -9 fatty acids; sweet almond oil which is high in proteins, fatty acids and vitamins A, B and E which are essential for healthy hair growth. Hello Brows also contains apricot kernel oil, a vitamin-rich oil that softens and promotes hair growth, and continues to work by protecting the newly grown hair.
Antioxidant Mineral Foundation by Eminence Organics
www.eminenceorganics.com.au
Zebra Brow Gel by PONi Cosmetics
Eminence Organic Skin Care Antioxidant Mineral Foundation is a natural pressed mineral powder that offers buildable coverage for an even complexion. Infused with protective antioxidants like rosemary, acai berry and green tea, the sheer mineral foundation provides a flawless finish, while nourishing the skin. Available in Honey Beige and Vanilla Cream.
www.eminenceorganics.com.au
PONi Cosmetics Zebra Brow Gel is a brow gel that will keep brows in place all day. The clear, water-resistant formula can be used on its own or combined with other brow products for natural, tame results.
www.ponicosmetics.com.au
In Touch Cream Blush by jane iredale jane iredale In Touch Cream Blush is a creamy stick blush that is an alternative to powder. It gives flawless application with a finish that is soft, dewy and natural. It can also be used on the lips. Available in: Clarity, Charisma, Chemistry, and Connection. Available in new shade Candid (warm, rosy neutral) for Autumn 2017.
www.margifox.com.au
Ultra CC Powder Pure Mineral Foundation by Ultraceuticals Ultraceuticals Ultra CC Powder Pure Mineral Foundation is a mineral powder foundation that will visibly brighten, smooth and even out the complexion. The formula contains an anti-ageing triple-complex (Microelastin, artocarpus extract and vitamin B3) with conditioning ingredients (vitamin C and E, as well as bisabolol). Airtight compact technology guarantees freshness and mess-free use. Available in five shades: 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5/Bronzer.
www.ultraceuticals.com 50
Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 1
NAILS
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Behind the Brand of
JESSICA COSMETICS Long before nail salons were found on every corner, there was Jessica Vartoughian, the woman who would become evolutionised nail care with a technique that was ahead of its time. Her pioneering spirit and business savvy helped pave the way for the multi-million dollar nail care industry to become what it is today. Now founder & CEO of Jessica Cosmetics International, Inc., Jessica of popular nail care products. EUROPEAN ROOTS
As a child growing up in Romania, Jessica watched her well-to-do parents get manicures, learning early on the importance of looking polished and well groomed. When she was 17 her family had to flee Romania, and relocated to Los Angeles where Jessica was challenged with learning English and finding a vocation. Given the language barrier she set aside hopes of becoming a teacher or therapist and enrolled in beauty school where she somewhat reluctantly began doing manicures. It wouldn’t be long, however, before she realised she had found her true calling.
ELEVATING HER CRAFT
Jessica’s first job was as a manicurist at the salon in a local department store. Even then she knew she wanted to upgrade nail care, making the manicure a more sophisticated, luxurious experience. She educated herself on the anatomy of the nail, reading everything she could and improving her English in the process. Intuitively, she focused on natural nails and shaped them by following the cuticle moon— unique approaches at a time when acrylics and squared- off edges were all the rage. She experimented with ways to repair breaks and enhance growth, and applied far more generous coats of polish than her colleagues, while always taking care to study the health as well as the appearance of each client’s nails. Her manicures became the most sought after—and expensive— in the salon and her growing following of wealthy women included her first celebrity, Lucille Ball.
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GROUND BREAKING: THE FIRST EVER NAILS-ONLY SALON
In 1969, with the goal of creating an elegant, spa-like atmosphere for manicures and pedicures, Jessica made a ground breaking move and opened the ever first salon in Beverley Hills catering only for nails. Prior to this nail salons were found only in the back of department-store hair salons and were considered secondary in importance to hairstylists. In 1972, the salon relocated to Burton Way before ultimately expanding into a relaxing 5-room retreat on iconic Sunset Boulevard in 1975. Jessica called the salon a “Clinic” and her manicurists and pedicurists “Nail Cultivists.” By focusing on natural nails, Jessica helped usher in a new way of thinking about nail care. She trained the manicurists and pedicurists separately but enabled them to work together seamlessly by designing a mani-pedi chair station that is unique to this day. In elevating the experience for her customers, she did the same for her pros, inspiring loyalty that has lasted decades. Jessica’s prominence continued to grow. When long term friend Nancy Reagan moved into the Whitehouse, Jessica flew to Washington, DC on a regular basis to do Mrs. Reagan’s nails, earning Jessica the moniker, The First Lady of Nails. The among them) and Jessica soon found herself featured in publications like Vogue, InStyle, Elle, and People.
In 1978, Jessica launched her own line of treatment products based on her innovative philosophy that nails are not alike and must be cared for and maintained like the skin with a regimen unique to the individual’s nail type. Products like Nourish, Phenomen Oil, and her specialized Basecoats for Dry, Brittle, Normal or Damaged nails quickly became top-sellers and form the basis of her now extensive brand. In addition to the treatment assortment, the line now boasts over 200 custom colours as well as the GELeration® Soak-Off Gel System and ZenSpa Pedicure. Jessica’s products are found in top salons in 60 countries worldwide and in premier retailers such as Fortnum & Mason in the UK and Manor in Switzerland. Today, Jessica is considered the most trusted source in the industry. For information on all Jessica Cosmetics ranges in Australia please contact www.jessicacosmetics.com.au
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1300 470 648 │ jessicacosmetics.com.au │ admin@jessicacosmetics.com.au Model is wearing The Luring Beauty. Jessica and GELeration Colours are 7-FREE (No Formaldehyde, No Formaldehyde Resin, Toluene, DSP, Camphor, Xylene or Ethyl Tosylamide). Cruelty Free and Vegan Friendly. Made in USA.
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NAILS
Step by step for
DREAMY ROSE By Caroline Morgan
Prep nail, apply base gel and cure. Brush on 2 layers of “MY YACHT, MY RULES” on entire nail, cure for 30 second in between layers in GELISH 18G LAMP or 2 minutes in UV lamp. After curing, brush on one layer of GELISH STRUCTURE CLEAR GEL on entire nail and DO NOT CURE
Just use the brush from the gelish bottle to apply a few colours into the uncured structure gel, choose the position as where you want the flowers to be, forming a circular shape, DO NOT CURE (colours shown in picture are: PINK SMOOTHIE/STREET CRED-IBLE/PASSION/POSTCARDS FROM PARIS/WATCH YOUR STEP, SISTER!)
Using the brush from the brush on structure gel, wipe both side of the brush clean, following a circular motion to marble the flowers, but still keep the flowers in a circular shape. CURE FOR 30 SECOND in GELISH 18G LAMP.
Using arctice freeze apply a few white dots on the flower, DO NOT CURE
Using same methold in step 3, marble the white gel into petals, doesn’t have to be a perfect petal shape because we only use it as a guide background. CURE FOR 30 SECOND.
Making small dots using “PLUM AND DONE” for the center of the flower, DO NOT CURE
GELISH GELS: Top it off | Structure gel in bottle | Arctic freeze | Give me gold Postcards from Paris | Watch your step, sister! | Plum and done
Use the same methold in step 3, using GELISH BRUSH ON STRUCTURE GEL, marble “PLUM AND DONE” into a bigger flower center, can cover the white petal a little bit for more natural look. CURE FOR 30 SECOND
Apply “LITTLE PRINCESS” to the entire nail for a more hazy look, CURE FOR 30 SECOND.
Draw thin lines with “GIVE ME GOLD” around the nail using GELISH “GEL STRIPER”. CURE FOR 30 SECOND
Apply a few dots of “PLUM AND DONE” on the empty spaces between the flowers, DO NOT CURE
Use STRUCTURE gel to marble the colour around to fill the spaces between the flowers, CURE FOR 30 SECOND
Clean the nail with CLEANSER after curing. Using “ARCTIC FREEZE” with GELISH “GEL STRIPER” brush to marke small circles in the flower to make the center of the flower, no need to cure
Using GELISH “GEL STRIPER” to draw fine lines of flower petals with “ARCTIC FREEZE”, don’t have to follow the flower outer shpae exactly. Make sure the lines of the petals have different thickness. CURE FOR 30 SECOND
Apply “TOP IT OFF” on entire nail and CURE FOR 30 SECOND under GELISH 18G LED LAMP, clean with cleanser after cure for a glossy fininsh
Repeat steps 1-14 for the other nails. Use hand and nail HARMONY “SECURE NAIL ADHESIVE” to add on some embelishments, then apply “TOP IT OFF” to seal everything in, CURE FOR 30 SECOND then clean with cleanser.
Little princess | My yacht, my rules! | Pink smoothy | Street credible | Passion BRUSH: GELISH GEL STRIPER
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BUSINESS
SET YOUR GOALS AND MAKE THEM HAPPEN FOR 2017! Goals big and small can be the steppingstones to a happier life and the way we set them can make a difference to achieving them. Having goals for things we want to do and working towards them is an important part of being human. The path towards our goals may not always run smoothly or be easy, but having goals, whether big or small, is part of what makes life good. It gives us a sense of meaning and purpose, points us in the direction we want to go and gets us interested and engaged, all of which are good for our overall happiness. Over 2000 years ago, Aristotle said “Well begun is half done.” And with regards to goals, he’s right (as he seems to have been on a lot of things). Paying attention to how we set our goals makes us more like to achieve them and achieving them makes us feel good about ourselves and our lives. • Decide. Think of something you want to do or work towards. It doesn’t matter what, as long as it’s something you want to do - ideally something you’re interested in or feel excited by. It should be something you want to do for its own sake not for something or someone else. It can be a big thing or a small thing - sometimes it is easier to get going with something small. And it often helps if it’s something that’s just a little bit beyond what you currently can do - goals that stretch us can be motivating! • Write it down. Carefully. Writing down our goals increases our chances of sticking with them. Write down how you will know you have reached your goals and when you’d like to have achieved it by. Ask yourself: what it will ‘look’ like and how will you feel when you’ve done it? How does it connect to who or what you value in your life? Describe your goal in specific terms and timescales e.g. ‘I want to plant lettuces, carrots and peas in the empty patch in my garden by the end of May’ rather than ‘I want to do some gardening.’ Write your goals in terms of what you want, not what you don’t want. For example: ‘I want to be able to wear my favourite jeans again’, rather than ‘I don’t want to be over-weight 56
Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 1
By Tracey DeTert
anymore’. • Tell someone. Telling someone we know about our goals also seems to increase the likelihood that we will stick at them. • Break your goal down. This is especially important for big goals. Think about the smaller goals that are steps on the way to achieving your bigger aim. Sometimes our big goals are a bit vague, like ‘I want to be healthier’. Breaking these down helps us be more specific. So a smaller goal might be ‘go running regularly’ or even ‘to be able to run around the park in 20 minutes without stopping’. Write down your smaller goals and try to set some dates to do these by too. Having several smaller goals makes each of them a bit easier and gives us a feeling of success along the way, which also makes it more likely that we’ll stay on track towards our bigger goal. • Plan your first step. An ancient Chinese proverb says that the journey of 1000 miles starts with one step. Even if your goal isn’t to walk 1000 miles, thinking about the first step on the way will really help to get you started. Even if you don’t know where to start there’s no excuse - your first step could be to research ‘how to…’ on the internet or think of people you could ask or to get a book on the subject from the library. Then think of your next step…and the next… • Keep going. Working towards our goals can sometimes be difficult and frustrating - so we need to persevere. If a step you’re doing isn’t
working, think of something else you could try that still moves you forward, even a tiny bit. If you’re struggling, ask people you know for their ideas on what you could do. They may help you see a different way. Thinking about different ways of reaching our goals makes it more likely we’ll be successful. If you’re really struck - take a break and then re-read the goal you wrote down when you started. If you need to adjust your goal - that’s ok too. Then have another think about a small next step… And don’t forget to celebrate! When you reach your goal take time to enjoy it and thank those that helped you. Think about what you enjoyed and learned along the way. Now, what is your next goal or project going to be? Tracey DeTert is a beauty therapist and owner of the Ultimate Beauty House/The Lip Lab on the Gold Coast Qld. www. theultimatebeautyhouse.com.au She is a passionate therapist with a strong business development and dermal background.
W E N
Wax Pro
1000
P RO F E S SI O N A L
INCLUDES
1Litre INSERT
1Litre
Wax Heater • High performance heating system • Variable temperature control • Suitable for all wax types
• Easy fit drip ring – easy clean • Includes 1litre insert
Contact M&U Imports for full product details on (03) 9555 1533 sales@muimports.com.au | www.muimports.com.au 662 South Rd, Moorabbin Victoria 3189 Australia
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BUSINESS Get acquainted with
SNAPCHAT By Susan Patel
If you’re not already familiar with Snapchat, you should get acquainted. Snapchat is a mobile photo-messaging app that allows users to take photos and short videos that remain viewable to recipients for approximately 10 seconds; after that, the “Snap” disappears into the dark tubes of the interwebs, never to be seen again. To expand its services, Snapchat has added live text, chat and video calls between contacts, which has helped increase use of the application among younger audiences. Just check out these stats: • Snapchat has roughly 26 million users in the United States • 77 percent of college students use Snapchat daily • 58 percent of college students would be likely to purchase a brand’s product or service if they received a coupon on Snapchat That’s a huge audience of potential customers. If you’re not already using the app as part of your own marketing strategy in 2016, you should be. Check out this guide to help you get started:
HIGHLIGHT SPECIAL EVENTS
If you’re hosting or taking part in live events (grand openings, anniversaries, trade shows, charity events, etc.), then Snapchat is a great tool to leverage. It gives your audience members direct access to your live event, no matter where they are. The NBA used snapchat in this manner during draft picks, All-Star games and finals. During the 2014 All-Star Game, the Association launched its brand on Snapchat, where fans were able to get up close and personal with players during the game. They also got tight Snaps of the game’s Slam Dunk Contest.
TEASE NEW PRODUCTS TO YOUR FANS
Some brands still worry that social use can be self-destructive and lead to a host of problems with managing user engagement. But others are jumping in, because marketers can make a serious impact with product launches using apps like Snapchat. 58
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Snapchat is an ideal opportunity to start teasing out videos and pictures of new products. Because these images last a few seconds, you can expect a fair amount of buzz and chatter to surge around your new offering.
PULL BACK THE CURTAIN
Snapchat can also be used to take your followers beyond raw products and services so you can engage the community more. Take them behind the scenes to show off your company. Have fun, and use the caption and drawing tools within Snapchat to show off your personality and corporate culture. This is a great opportunity to show your fans how different your brand is from your competitors’. If you want to mix it up behind the scenes, rotate control of your Snapchat account among trusted employees. Give them each control of it for a day or so. This adds a great deal of variety and flavour that your fans will enjoy. Just be sure to set some guidelines to keep “bad stuff” from popping up.
KEEP IT DISNEY
Snapchat is about as casual as social media platforms can get. Your followers aren’t interested in corporate stuffiness -- they’re looking for colour, action and fun. Give it to them. At the same time, you still need to maintain some professionalism due to the nature of the audience. Snapchat followers are younger: according to Snapchat, the average user age group is 12-34. That means “keeping it Disney” with content that is clearly for a general audience.
TELL A STORY
Videos in any medium should be kept short and snappy, and that’s certainly true with Snapchat. Regardless of the medium, your audience is out
there looking for brief content to digest while in line, sitting in class or on a short break at work. Feed them brief content and they’ll gobble it up. Snapchat works because the videos you take are limited to 10 seconds. Take that and run with it, because you can make multiple video clips and string them together to tell a story that your followers can go through all at once when they have the time.
PUSH THE INCENTIVES
Here’s where Snapchat can get you real foot traffic if you own a physical business: incentives. Incentives are a classic marketing strategy, and have become an expected staple within social media. Businesses often host giveaways and sweepstakes asking fans to like, retweet, share and comment for a chance to win something big. Snapchat can be used the same way. In fact, an impressive 58% of college students stated they were more likely to buy from a company if they received a coupon via Snapchat. So can Snapchat actually drive customers to your business or to your website? The answer is absolutely “yes.” If you haven’t started using Snapchat as part of your marketing strategy, you’re definitely missing out on the opportunity to connect with relevant members of your target audience. Sujan Patel is an Entrepreneur and Marketer and Co-founder of ContentMarketer.io In his 13-plus years as a marketer and entrepreneur, Sujan Patel has helped hundreds of companies boost online traffic and sales and strengthen their online brand reputation. Patel is co-founder of ContentMarketer.io & Narrow.io.
W E N
Wax Pro
500
INCLUDES
500ml INSERT
P R O F E SSI O N A L
500ml
Wax Heater • High performance heating system • Variable temperature control • Suitable for all wax types
• Easy fit drip ring – easy clean • Includes 500ml insert
Contact M&U Imports for full product details on (03) 9555 1533 sales@muimports.com.au | www.muimports.com.au 662 South Rd, Moorabbin Victoria 3189 Australia
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BUSINESS
SEVEN STEPS TO A WOW-WORTHY CLIENT CONSULTATION IN YOUR BEAUTY SALON OR SPA By Jay Chapman
Imagine I’m a new client sitting in your salon right now, about to have a facial treatment. What can I expect? Will you or your therapist offer me a consultation that will WOW me? If not, you’re bypassing one of the most critical elements of the first-time client interaction. And you’re overlooking a huge opportunity to amaze me. The consultation process backbones everything you do for your new client for as long as you look after them. Within a few short minutes, he or she will subconsciously determine whether or not they 60
Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 1
can trust, like and connect with you. Their perception today will shape the way they perceive you and your salon from hereon in. So, ask yourself this: What is my consultation
process? or Why don’t I have one? and Do I need one for every service I offer? Here, I’m going to share with you the consultation smarts I’ve learnt over the years as a salon owner
and being on contacts with 100’s of beauty professionals. There’s no such thing as a perfect consultation, but there are definitely ways to refine it to save time and optimise outcomes. I want you to take away a process that can help you and your team avoid mistakes and stop working so hard to get the same result. These seven steps will help you boost your consultation process and reap the re-wards of satisfied clients.
1. BUILDING RAPPORT:
We’re “people people” – this skill comes naturally to many of us in the beauty space. Understanding exactly what lets us connect effectively can help us build that important relationship faster. Matching and mirroring your client’s body language, pitch and tone of their voice will instantly and sub-consciously allow them to feel at ease and more open to con-necting with you. No need to parrot the client; just understand that people who are softly spoken and quiet-natured do not respond well to a loud, booming voice and getting their ear chewed off. Use the client’s name as often as you can – this builds rapport and trust while help-ing to cement their name into your brain. Remember (or note down) the little things like what product they purchased last time, and ask how they’re going with it. They’ll appreciate your interest.
2. ASKING QUESTIONS:
Open questions are crucial for getting to know your clients’ needs quickly. Don’t be afraid to ask. If I could solve your biggest problem with your skin, what would that be? What is the long-term plan for your skin? Tell me what you would change about your brows if you had a magic wand? These are open questions that a client can’t simply answer with a ‘yes’ or a ‘no’. Your client is inspired to dig deep into their brain and really think about what it is that they’re seeking to achieve.
3. MAKING SUGGESTIONS:
The majority of your clients really don’t know what’s possible for them. As experts, we do. It’s our job to share this knowledge by way of suggestion. If you were cheeky enough (I was) to ask a new client to share with you why they decided to leave their last salon, you’d find most just felt like a change and didn’t have a huge drama that made them decide to leave. Really? With all the expertise we have as therapists, why do our clients feel they need to jump ship to get a change? It’s through lack of suggestion. Think evolution, not revolution. Keep your clients inspired and show them what is new in the salon, It really is simple. I would love to see your brows a bit more ... I’d really like to show you something I had in mind for you. Can I?
4. USING VISUALS:
We’ve now got tablets and smart phones with
“We are not miracle workers and a lot of what we do can not be helped with just one appointment. Your client will appreciate your frankness and it is your job to educate them!” literally millions of images ready to google. The most up-to-date trends are at our fingertips. I have quite a few clients with Pinterest boards and dedicated folders for make-up, brow and lash inspiration. Pictures confirm and inspire. A visual image takes all the guesswork out of what the client really means when they ask for ‘darker brows’. A picture is worth a thousand words – it can cut through confusion and save valuable time during your consulta-tion process.
5. RE-CAPPING:
Mimic what a restaurant waiter does just after they’ve taken your order – before you start the service, run through with your client what you’ve agreed on for today and the result you’re going to achieve. It’s one last opportunity for them to change their mind and confirm you understand one another. Be honest about the expected outcome, we are not miracle workers and a lot of what we do can not be helped with just one appointment. Your client will appreciate your frankness and it is your job to educate them.
6. SHARING OUR SECRETS:
The consultation process should last from when your client arrives to when they leave. Don’t underestimate how little your client knows about looking after their skin at home. Take-home care supports what we do in the salon. It’s our insurance policy. Explain how much product to use or apply, where to put it and why it’s needed. Give away your secrets. It amazes me how much the average beauty professional knows about skin and af-tercare however doesn’t share this information with every client.
7. CLOSING:
Re-booking at an appropriate interval is just part of client education and consulta-tion. Simply asking your client if they’d like to make their next appointment is lazy. It doesn’t tell them a thing about when or why they should return. You need to give each client a reason to come back and explain why the timing matters. These examples are simple, yet effective: Your turn around time is 6 weeks. That brings us to … Your last visit was 7 weeks ago but, to maintain the results I suggest … Evenings and weekends book very quickly. I’d like to look after you again. Can I make your next appointment now for you so you don’t miss out? Lastly, it’s the golden ZING rule: every client, every time. Why not ask each of your team members to read this article? Together, you can create a sure-fire consultation process that reflects your salon culture. Then you need to apply it consistently. So every client sitting in beauty room in your salon gets WOW-ed. Every time. Jay is a specialist ZING salon coach. For more salon wisdom, email ZING at lisa@zingcoach. com.au, visit the website, find video tips on YouTube or read ZING leader Lisa Conway’s brand new book: Your Salon Team – the salon own-er’s guide to finding, motivating and keeping great staff. www.zingcoach.com
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HAPPY, SPARKLING 2017! By Julie Cross
And so a new year begins and perhaps you have heard a lot of these statements as we often do at the beginning of another year… “I hope this is going to be a better year than last year” or “This better be MY year” or the old classic… “Good riddance 2016!” Now, sometimes these are said out of habit, people say it, we always said it and so we say it again. But we really should start to challenge some of these statements and the validity in repeating them and wether or not they serve us in any way. Let me explain… Just the fact that we are waking up in a new year is a reason to be grateful and happy for sure. Let’s just start by feeling good about that. Now, will it be ‘YOUR’ year and if it were, what exactly would that look like? Would it be a year of absolutely no dramas, no challenges personally and professionally… no bad or sad moments just everything going exactly ‘right’, no pain, no sadness just happy, happy, happy? Well, good luck with that! You see because this is the gift of a new year and it is a gift indeed and there will be no guarantees it will be challenge free, because then there would be no growth, there will be no promises of no sadness because that is not real life, and if we do not know sadness then how do we know what happiness feels like? There may be some grief and some loss because nobody ever promised that life would not have some of that and we are doing ‘life’ you know. So, yes you will get the gift of a brand new year and it will be like many other years and you will have the opportunity to choose, yet again, choose how you live it. How you respond to the challenges and embrace the growth that comes with them. How you allow yourself to ‘feel’ your sadness and then give yourself permission to also roll around in ecstasy in your joy. It will be up to you in the end, up to you to decide wether it is in fact ‘YOUR’ year or not. You will decide with the way you move through all the situations and challenges that present themselves… yes, that will be over to you. And let us remember that when we make a ‘New Year Resolution’, and I hope that you do, but let it be a daily resolution. Every day wake up and decide to honour that resolution today. Do your best today. That makes it all the more ‘doable’ and it also means that if you trip up (and humans do trip up sometimes), and if you do, it means that you can get back up tomorrow and start again with a brand new day. Too often if we make a
‘years’ resolution the minute we break it we feel like it is all lost and we need to wait until 2018 to start again!! Oh now you don’t! You simple start again with the brand new day. A daily resolution, one day at a time. As you look at what your ‘resolutions’ and ‘goals’ are for this year let us also have a fresh look at our personal and professional ‘Mission’ and ‘Values’ statements. Do you have one? Does your team know what it is? Do they have their own individual one? If not this is a great time of the year to define, write, affirm and share those within your team. The reason they are so important is that they give you the ‘bigger picture’ of what it is we ‘do’ everyday in our work. You see we are not just ‘doing’ services and ‘selling’ product. Instead we are taking our clients on a journey, and as we perform our beauty treatments on the outside we are connecting with then on the inside and we are inviting to come with us on a journey, of not just experiencing our treatments but also feeling the care we have for them. We are not just about making them ‘look’ better we are also about making them ‘feel’ great. We don’t just want to massage their faces, we want to make them smile, we want to massage their hearts and nurture their souls with service that inspires them to want to come back and bring their friends. So when you look at your daily tasks and treatments through that lens, what would your face look like, what would be the tone of your voice, what words would you use, compliments would you give? Having a meaningful mission statement to wrap around your resolutions is powerful for sure. Every day I have a mission to inspire, entertain or empower… so with every interaction wether it is from the stage, from the social media platform, for what I write in forums such as this, or through the one on one conversation I have… I ask myself, ‘Will it entertain, inspire or empower?’ So that is my Mission, my bigger picture… it is never just an article or just a speech. And it is never just a treatment or just a facial. Think big, play big, own that stage and take this year and live it like you know how to use it. You deserve it and so do your clients! Sparkle on.
FOR THE LOVE OF LASHES By Julia Mann
I can see the puzzled look on the mums face that I just met at the playground while Isabella and Sebastian are letting their hair down. “You are doing Eyelash Extensions? Is that your real job?” “Uh, yes it is....” I reply with a little forced smile while I feel the annoyance creeping up inside of me. This is not the first time I have been asked this very same question. And I am sure it won’t be the last. Why is this so hard to believe? Let me take this opportunity to tell you a little more about my “Job”, my “Passion”: Many salons that I speak to on an everyday basis, as well as my Lash Tribe business course students, are looking for new services to add to attract new clients, upsell to their existing clients and increase their revenue. A smart move if you ask me. Eyelash Extensions have fast become one of the most sought after services all over the globe. To become amazing at lashes takes months, if not years, of dedication, great training and mentorship. Eyelash extensions are an art. Not just a job. We are able to give woman more, darker and longer lashes that will make them look amazing and feel more confident. Lashes need a 2-3 weekly refill. Speak about a good return customer base! If you know a little bit about Makeup application and Face-Design, you will know that eyebrows and eyelashes are the 2 major factors that can change a persons face shape and the all over appearance dramatically. It really is amazing what we can achieve with lashes. There are 2 different types of Eyelash Extensions applications: With classic lashes, typically
1 synthetic lash is applied per natural lash, making the lashes longer and a little thicker which adds a little more density then there were lashes before. With Russian Volume Extensions (not to mix up with cluster lashes that are pre-done fans) 2 or more lashes (anything from 7 lashes is called mega Volume) are applied to only one natural lash in a hand made fan. This process is very different to classic lashing and requires intensive training and lots of practice. But what does this all mean for Salon Owners? Happy, return customers and great profit. Women love lashes. They want to wake up looking amazing, little makeup required, and no mascara smudging. It also means that we can apply more lashes than there are natural lashes which is great for clients with sparser lashes. We can create dark, full, fluffy and voluminous lashes that turn heads. Lashes are amazing, highly addictive and lucrative and I recommend to anyone who is already doing classic lashes to get on the Volume Train. So yes, as you can see being an Eyelash Extensions Artist, Lash Tech, Eye Stylist or Lash Designer, or whatever you want to call us, is indeed a very lucrative job and extremely fulfilling. Julia Mann is a Mum of 2, award winning, international eyelash extensions trainer, founder of Lash Tribe and lashtribe.tv. Julia teaches her online students lashes, business and branding and also offers Australia wide in person training. for further information visit www.lashtribe.com.au
SOCIAL MEDIA & WHY ITS PERFECT FOR MAKEUP ARTISTS By Mia Connor
People often ask me how I built my social media following – not that its much in comparison to some, but its certainly where majority of my work comes from these days. I actually started using social media as a marketing tool back in the times of Myspace – for some of our younger readers Myspace was just before Facebook and was approximately a decade or more ago. I recognised social media as a highly useful, and addictive, tool to promote myself and my work and not just a way to keep in touch with friends. I would post all of my work on Myspace and then Facebook and thereafter Instagram.In my opinion its much better than print, its cost effective, and your reach is endless. I will talk about Instagram, as that is for me, my biggest marketing platform.
WHAT YOU PUT OUT YOU GET BACK IN CLIENTS
Don’t pigeon hole yourself as an artist when starting out to only be seen to be posting one style of makeup as this will limit the demographic of clients you will get. For example, if you are consistently posting images of very natural makeup – you will attract the clients that want that style of makeup. You may get the odd request for a stronger, dramatic look but majority of those clients would go to the makeup artist who is seen to be doing such looks, therefore you are selling yourself short somewhat if you are trying to get more clients. The most recent images you post on your social media, I almost guarantee you will get clients bringing in those images requesting those looks – try it, its interesting to see it in action.
TAG THE BRANDS YOU WORK WITH
The aim of the game is to tag off the end of another account’s bigger social media following. I see some artists that refuse to share the products they used like its some kind of sorcery. I like to tag all the brands that I use in the hope they see my work, like my work, and ultimately regram my work (credit me), which hopefully sees my account gain more exposure and followers. Tip – don’t just @ tag the brands, if they have millions of followers your tag will be lost in their notification feed. Its imperative that you hashtag the brand and the product name as that company’s marketing team will be searching for such tags to provide content to their page. Remember that these brands rely on us as artists to provide the content to their page.
TIMING OF POSTS
Time of day is very important when you are posting in order to get the most exposure to your post. For example, I personally will only post at night time, when majority of users are online. I will post one image of one look only at the one time. Artists who post multiple images of the exact same look, at the
same time, will possibly lose followers as it can be a bit spammy, and also, they will get less likes distributed across such images, instead of one strong image getting a lot of likes. You must also post consistently in order for your following to grow. I try to post every day. Sunday evenings are when my posts get the best response. It’s so easy for us as artists to create our own content at any time. Whether it’s the look you’ve created on yourself, a look you’ve created on a model, to a flat lay of the products you just purchased. Mia Connor has been in the makeup industry for over ten years. Known for her red carpet approach to makeup, where skin is fresh and eyes are dramatic but not overdone. Based on the Gold Coast, Mia travels frequently around Australia providing Advanced Masterclasses to Makeup Artists wanting to learn her style, refresh their skills and gain inspiration. www. miaconnor.com
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WATCHING THE NAIL INDUSTRY BOOM! By Caroline Morgan
The Nail industry has somewhat been a quiet little cornerstone of the beauty world. Usually in the past Nail services has been an add on service but 2016 saw the nail industry in Australia BOOM. WE now see nail events popping up all over our country and showing us that Nail Artistry has grown to huge levels nationally and increasingly exposing our amazing artists internationally such as current NTNA competitor Jonny Diep Pham and the success of previous entrants Sarah Elmaz and Simone Gilbert rocking the international circuit. The nail industry in Australia has also evolved with events such as Perth Nail extravaganza, The national nail camp, and the new inaugural Midge Duggen Lifetime achievement award for excellence in the nail industry in Australia and New Zealand. I was lucky enough to be involved in many nail industry events last year and this year is no exception. We start out our nail season with the Perth Nail Extravaganza, 30th April at the Metro hotel in Perth. The nail competitions run on the 29th and 30th and promise to highlight a huge array of talent. There will be plenty of distributors, demos, and workshops! A must not miss even for techies in WA who can’t make it over to the NSW comps! The National Nail camp follows closely from June 2nd to June 5th at Lord Somers camp, Balnarring. Organiser Tess Hellier has advised this year workshops are definitely on the cards as well as over 100 attendees already confirmed! Brisbane expo follows on from nail camp on the 30th and 31st of July. There is also a various array of nail exhibitors and a large competition arena organised by Tracey Boyle. Last year numbers doubled in this competition arena and I was very lucky to of judged some of the art sections which was phenomenal! Finally, we finish our nail circuit year at the International Beauty Expo with it being our largest nail competitions in Australia. These competitions also operated by event coordinator Tracey Boyle prove to of been a huge success in the past with the event now supported by NAILYMPIA and seeing numbers double and grow since its integration. We Now see international celebrity guests such as Marian Newman and Elaine Watson Travelling the globe to share their skills and knowledge.
This year also saw the fruition of the annual nail artists cocktail party and Midge Duggan Lifetime achievement award. Nail artist from across Australia and some international celebrity guests all gathered on the Sunday after the expo to celebrate the nail industry with a few surprises in store. On the evening, it was my pleasure to announce along with fellow Nail artists and long-time friend Viv Simmonds, the first ever Lifetime achievement award for the nail industry. This year the award was presented to its namesake, Midge Duggan. Midge has had a huge impact on the nail industry in the past being heavily involved in mentoring and growing fresh new techs to proudly being an integral part of the nail awards. Her passion and love for the industry was always prevalent and her encouragement and involvement will now never go unnoticed. 2017 sees the return of the midge Duggan lifetime achievement award and the introduction of nail tech of the year and nail educator of the year which will be announced again at the nail artists cocktail party and the end of the Sydney beauty expo. The nail artistry in Australia has grown in leaps and bounds and we are seeing brand new technologies and events to keep nail artists in the loop and grow our industry as a whole. To keep track of events coming up in Australia checkout the AUSTRALIAN NAIL EVENTS Facebook page! Caroline has been part of the Australian nail industry since 2005. She has been competing in the Australian nail circuit since 2006 and placed that year in her first competition. Since then she has received over 75 trophies in artistic and technical categories and has won overall masters champion and won the prestigious Robert Bowrey trophy in 2014 at the Sydney International Beauty Expo. She has competed and placed internationally and has been an educator for over 8 years. As director of education for Harmony Nail Systems, Caroline wants to grow a strong professional team within our industry to motivate and educate to the highest standards whilst inspiring nail artists.
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