Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 3 by Mocha Group

The Essential Business Guide for Salons and Spas

Year 10 Issue 3

7 REASONS WHY

DPDermaceuticals by DermapenWorld are NON NEGOTIABLES when skin needling

ABIA

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017 THE OSCARS OF THE AUSTRALIAN BEAUTY INDUSTRY

Gala Awards Night Hyatt Regency, 161 Sussex St. Sydney Overlooking Darling harbour

Sunday 27th August 2017

7.00pm to 11.30pm

Dress Code - Black Tie/Evening Wear

Beauty Biz

TICKETS: SINGLE $250 TABLE OF TEN $2200 (LIMITED NUMBER OF TABLES OF 11 AND 12 ALSO AVAILABLE) TICKET INCLUDES ARRIVAL CANAPÉS, 3 COURSE A LA CARTE DINNER, DRINKS (BEER, WINE, SOFT DRINKS), ENTERTAINMENT, DANCING AND MORE…

Featuring

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Official Rooftop After Party at Zephyr! 11.30pm to

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www.australianbeautyindustryawards.com.au

B E A U T Y

CON TENTS

ON THE COVER 18-19 Industry Students Get a Headstart with Silk

REGULARS 06 Editors Letter 08-12 Industry News 44 Tanning 46-47 Beauty Shop

FEATURE 14 The Adam and Eve Story 16 In Therapy with Sustainable Salons Australia 20 The Impact of Toxic Chemicals 22 Crystal Therapy By Samantha Sargent

PROFILE 24 Nature’s Care open’ Hunter’s Dream Vineyard & Estate, NSW

DERMAL 26 Hydrodermabrasion By Rachel Taylor 28 Organic Beauty Market Share on the Increase By Nicole O’Sullivan 30 Tattoo Removal 101 By Andrew R. Christie

MEDI & AESTHETICS 32 Treating Scars

EVENTS 34 2017 Non Surgical Symposium 35 6th ASDC Educational Conference 36 National Cosmetics & Plastic Surgery Conference 2017 38 Beauty is Set to Explode at Brisbane Hair & Beauty Expo

BEAUTY 40 The K-Beauty Boom 42 Regulating the Lash Industry

BUSINESS 48 Specifically Tailored Payment System 50 The P’s of Business By Daniel Dickson 52 Penalty Rates for Sunday 54 Made Up Men 56 Scientific Brand Content By Nathalie Isnard 58 Four sure-fire tips for Finding Your Fabulous New Therapist By Jay Chapman 60 Your Facebook and Instagram Posts Suck… And here’s why! By Estelle Oliveri

BLOG SPOT 62 When we Loved Ourselves Enough By Julie Cross 64 The Creative Mind VS The Business Mind By Mia Connor 66 Exposure Nailed By Caroline Morgan

Dermapenworld™ DermapenWorld.com | +61 2 9889 3636

Beauty Biz PUBLISHER

Linda Woodhead linda@mochapublishing.com.au

Editors Editors Note

EDITOR

April Jones april@mochapublishing.com.au

ADVERTISING MANAGER Nina Barbara nina@mochapublishing.com.au

ART DIRECTOR

Kellie Woodhead kellie@mochapublishing.com.au

ADMINISTRATION

Jess Richmond jess@mochapublishing.com.au

CONTRIBUTORS Samantha Sargent Rachel Taylor Nicole O’Sullivan Andrew R. Christie Daniel Dickson Nathalie Isnard Jay Chapman Estelle Oliveri Julie Cross Mia Connor Caroline Morgan

OFFICE

PO BOX 252 Helensvale Plaza Qld 4212 P: 07 5580 5155 mail@mochapublishing.com.au www.mochapublishing.com.au

DISTRIBUTION

Australia Post - Print Post 100005498

PRINTING APN

PUBLISHED BY mocha publishing

PUBLISHERS OF

HAIR BIZ, Beauty Biz & Barber Shop Beauty Biz is published six times a year by mocha publishing ABN 65 091 846 189 No Part of the publication may be reproduced in any manner or form without written permission. Beauty Biz does not accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies, original artwork or other material. The views expressed in Beauty Biz are not necessarily those of the publisher. No responsibility will be accepted if the publication is delayed or prevented by factors beyong the control of the publisher. No responsibility will be accepted for errors in copy, or for any loss arising from the failure of an advertisement or any part thereof to appear. © 2017 mocha publishing All rights reserved.

Welcome to another issue of Beauty Biz Magazine as we are approach halfway through an eventful 2017. There seems to be a new advancement, product or training with each passing month with this year proving to mark a large step forward in the area of dermal aesthetics and how we incorporate these into our salons and businesses. Be it cosmetic injectables, fat freezing or advanced skin services, we are seeing a huge surge in this area and a marked increase in sales of medically based products and physician only formulations. In this issue we look a bit further into the wonder of the Cryolipolysis treatment, more commonly referred to as fat freezing. This is fast becoming a popular treatment in clinics and even mainstream salons, being backed by some pretty impressive evidence based statistics. We also look closely at blue light therapy, which is being utilised successfully to treat severe acne cases, working on destroying the infection causing P.Acnes Bacteria. While these new developments are exciting to our industry, I do accept that these clinic based treatments are not everyone’s cup of tea and that there are still a large amount of salons and spas concentrating on the ‘hands on’ approach to treatments, something I hope will never go out of fashion! Nicole O Sullivan our resident organic expert once again provides us with an insight into combining the power and healing properties of essential oils into our therapies, going deeper into the clarity and quality of the oils that we are utilising. Our extensive panel of judges for the annual ABIA awards, proudly owned by Mocha Publishing, have been busy scrutinising all of the entries over the past 3 weeks and submitting their results allowing us to announce the finalists for this year’s gala awards event. The competition once again has been fierce and with some new categories, including state finalists and online submissions, we have seen a whole new wave of amazing individuals, salons and businesses enter this years awards. CONGRATULATIONS to all those who took time to enter and to those that have reached finalist status! Inside this edition is a full list of all 2017 ABIA finalists and tickets are now on sale for the ABIA Gala event which will be held on 27th August at the Hyatt Regency, overlooking Darling Harbour, Sydney, This truly is the highlight of the year, Visit our website www.mochapublishing.com.au/shop to purchase your tickets and I will see you there! Have a great month and hope you enjoy the read!

April April Jones Editor

The NON NEGOTIABLES when skin needling

FOR MORE INFORMATION visit DermapenWorld.com for your authorised distributor in your country or call +61 2 98893636. DP Dermaceuticals may also be used as homecare by the patient. In addition to active meso-glides, the range also features a cleanser, exfoliant, moisturiser, mask and Cover Recover camouflage for pre and post-op maintenance. Specific protocol packs serve as non negotiables to ensure the best results when combined with Dermapen skin needling procedures.

IND US TRY NEWS

ULTRACEUTICALS DUAL MICROFOLIANT LAUNCH On Thursday May 18th 2017, Ultraceuticals held an intimate lunch at 12 Micron Barangaroo for select media and VIP’s, hosted by Founder, Dr Geoffrey Heber, CEO, Karen Wilkin-Donachie and PR Manager, Adrian De Brock to launch the new Ultra Dual Microfoliant set for release June 1st. Signature, crisp green and white floral palettes set the scene throughout the private dining room overlooking Sydney harbour. Pineapples positioned as décor and within the signature cocktail made a subtle nod to one of the main ingredients, Bromelain in the new formulation. Each guest received their very own scripted, laser-cut mirrored name at their place setting and experienced a 6 course tasting menu of Kingfish, fennel, jalapeno with finger lime, pork jowl, black pudding, John Dory, mussels, sea herbs, lamb, purple carrot, gin and tonic sorbet, mandarin, salted caramel tonka bean and chocolate. Notable guests included: Kate Peck, Channel 10, Lana Jeavons-Fellowes, Bachelor, Sigourney Cantelo, Beauticate, Claudia Renford, New Idea, Amy Starr, Elle, Lucy Adams, Marie Claire, Michael Brown, Channel 9 to name a few.

DMK SETS TO CHANGE SKIN AND LIVES AT REWIND SKIN CLINIC The newly renamed Rewind Skin Clinic located on Queensland’s Gold Coast saw 60 guests treated to freshly squeezed juices and gourmet tasting plates sourced from local providores, as the team welcomed professional skin revision brand DMK into their service offering. Owners Karyn Martin and Serena McClutchie had been long searching for a brand to partner with that that truly reflected the values of their new clinic, and felt that DMK had the ability to deliver the long-term sustainable results that the clinic was famous for. “We wanted to make sure that we stood by our vision of providing our clients with the very best the industry had available at any given point in time, said Karyn. When we came across DMK, we knew we found a partner that we would be proud and excited to introduce to our clients. Feedback from clients was that they loved learning about the unique DMK concept of Remove, Rebuild, Protect and Maintain and about the science behind the DMK products.” DMK was represented on the night by Daniel Dickson, Managing Director of DMK Australia and New Zealand and Debbie Dickson, DMK Head of Education who presented on the uniquely DMK concept of Remove, Rebuild, Protect, Maintain and DMK Enzyme Therapy – know to be the only enzyme therapy in the world to harness the power of transfer messenger enzymes.

DMK professional skin revision is available now at Rewind Skin Clinic and appointments can be made via their website or over the phone www.rewindskinclinic.com.au Ph: (07) 5501 5011

DARE TO BE KIND How Extraordinary Compassion Can Transform Our World by Lizzie Velasquez Being called ‘the world’s ugliest woman’ transformed one woman’s life – and inspired millions of others. The internet can be a frightening place for adolescents and parents alike, and few have felt this more acutely than Lizzie Velasquez. Research suggests that over 50% of kids aged 10-14 and 44% of young people aged 14-18 in Australia have experienced cyberbullying*. Born with a rare genetic condition, Lizzie Velasquez always knew she was different, but it wasn’t until she was 17 she understood what it meant to others. Browsing the internet in her bedroom one evening, she came across a viral YouTube video of herself entitled ‘The world’s ugliest woman’. It had already been watched more than four million times, commented on by thousands of strangers. With her head spinning, she went through every single one of the comments to see who was standing up for her. Nobody was. In this daring, revelatory and incredible book, Lizzie draws on her own experiences over a lifetime of bullying to show how we can overcome the obstacles that give rise to self-doubt, shame and cruelty. She is an extraordinarily powerful self-esteem activist, and living proof of how we can transform our fears into empathy and kindness for the good of ourselves and others.

PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SOLUTIONS NAMED THE NEW AUSTRALIAN DISTRIBUTOR OF PURE FIJI Professional Beauty Solutions are very proud to announce that they have acquired the distribution of Pure Fiji in Australia. “We are so delighted to be able to offer our salons this amazing brand. Like many Australians, my wife and I first fell in love with Pure Fiji whilst on a trip to Fiji 10 years ago.” said Matt Williams, CEO of Professional Beauty Solutions. “In fact, I believe that this is what has made Pure Fiji so popular. 350,000 Australians visit Fiji annually and their products are stocked exclusively everywhere from the resorts to the premium Fijian retail stores, spas and even the business class packs on flights to and from Fiji. This results in hundreds of thousands of Australians becoming raving fans of the products and we feel that this is an extraordinary opportunity for our salon partners. You know that when you stock Pure Fiji, it’s a safe bet that you already have dozens of customers that already love the products.” “We have dreamt of having Pure Fiji as a brand of ours for the last 10 years, so when we were approached by the company, we couldn’t get on a plane fast enough. The family and the Fijians behind this extraordinary brand gave us the most amazing welcome imaginable and shared with us their equally amazing story. Naturally sourced, eco-friendly and sustainable have become marketing buzzwords in recent times, but Pure Fiji has been living it for decades. We believe that this partnership compliments our current offering of brands perfectly and will contribute enormously to the success of PBS salons.” Matt said.

ELLEEBANA GLOBAL It’s been a busy few months for Managing Director of Elleebana. Otto Mitter has been travelling the globe as a guest educator at some of the world’s leading events in the world of lashes and beauty. Working his way from USA where Otto has now set up 40 + trainers for team Elleebana by creating the Elleevate Education Symposium, then to South Korea presenting at the Lash Vision conference, onto London to work on the prestigious Sunborn Super Yacht and then Beauty UK Exhibition in Birmingham to spread the word and growth of the Australian brand Elleebana and the art of Lash Lift, lash and brow colour styling and shaping and eyelash extension mastery. “It has been an amazing journey over the past few months, we have always been well recognised and extremely busy in Australasia and pacific region but over the last two years I said to myself last that I was going to set some goals and put myself out there more internationally and the response has been overwhelming. I’m extremely passionate about what I do and have a real thirst for education and working alongside leaders in the industry which is appreciated by my colleagues and clients. It has been a great feeling and I’m really proud knowing that myself and my amazing team are helping put Australia on the map when it comes to creating innovative products and delivering world class education that is being respected and sort after. We have more tours scheduled and plenty of amazing events and projects to come, so it is going to be a BIG year ahead in the world of Elleebana and Belmacil. I’m super excited at what is on the horizon so stay tuned.”

You can follow all things Elleebana on instagram or www.elleebana.com

To learn more about Pure Fiji, visit https://au.purefiji.com/

ANDREW CHRISTIE GLOBAL MEDICAL TRAINER FOR DERMAPENWORLD ANNOUNCEMENT It is with great pleasure that we congratulate Andrew Christie, Director of Lipservice Consulting and Global Medical Trainer for Dermapenworld on his latest achievement. Andrew recently completed his Phd in Biochemistry at the University Of Southampton in the UK. Dr. Andrew is pictured here with his thesis and doctorate at the annual Dermapenworld Distributors Meeting held in Monte Carlo. Whilst his family and colleagues were unable to attend his formal award ceremony earlier this year, they were able to celebrate his success in Monaco. Despite admitting to nearly quitting his studies on four occasions, Andrew sends his thanks to his family, his colleagues and to Dr Grossel and Professor Brown for their support over the years.

COMFORTEL STOOLS Comfortel’s easily adjustable stools feature a wide range of modern designs for comfort, mobility and storage. What makes these stools unique? The silent, smooth rolling wheels are designed to glide through the salon effortlessly for easy movement. With base options – black or aluminium and a 360° ring access for easy height adjustment, it can hold up to 800kg of weight. There are a variety of designs to choose from; including backrests and saddle stools that ensure your salon’s therapists and technicians stay comfortable and focused. The gas lift on every stool comes with a 10-year guarantee.

www.comfortel.com.au

COMFORTEL’S NEW BLACK ON BLACK RECLINING CHAIR FOR BROWS, LASHES, THREADING AND MAKE UP. Meet Erica. Whatever you knew about stylish salon chairs before, forget it. The Erica represents a changing tide in salon reclining chairs. A bold statement, it speaks for its self. The perfect combination of high-end style, comfort and practicality, Comfortel’s Erica Reclining Chair with footrest is well recognised for its Black on Black profile. You can tell just by looking at the Erica Salon Chair – that it’s super comfy. This chair combines matte black metal with generous foam

cushioning to give your clients’ toosh a little love. For applying makeup or defining the ‘on point’ brow, the leather look upholstery and Matte Black Luna Base (pictured) combination creates an impressive profile that will add to your ‘ultra-modern chic’ salon interior. This professional reclining beauty salon makeup chair is ideal for makeup application and various beauty therapies including threading, lash extensions and brow waxing and enhancement.

www.comfortel.com.au

IND US TRY NEWS

DERMASCOPE 2017 AESTHETICIANS CHOICE AWARDS HAILS DMK FAVOURITES For its third year in a row, the US based Dermascope 2017 Aestheticians Choice Awards are back with industry professionals and practitioners from all around the United States both nominating and voting on their favourite industry products and treatments, with professional skin revision brand DMK winning Best Masque of 2017 with their in-clinic masque simply called Enzyme Masque 1# and Best Body Wrap of 2017 with their cellulite addressing, Body Sculpting Crème. This is the second year in the award’s three-year history that Body Sculpting Crème has been awarded the top honour in its category – showing that it is a true favourite of industry professionals across the board.

BEAUTY EXPO MELBOURNE AND HAIR EXPO POP UP KEEP VICTORIAN PROFESSIONALS SKILLED AND INSPIRED Beauty Expo Melbourne and Hair Expo POP UP proved a hit for Victorian beauty and hair professionals; who shopped, networked, and learned new skills at the region’s premier boutique trade shows for the industry. Staged side-by-side and set over 25-26 March at the Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre (MCEC), the events serve as the inspirational and educational hub for Victorian hair and beauty professionals. Making a welcome return in 2017 to Beauty Expo Melbourne (formerly known as Salon Melbourne), the Skincare Sanctuary displayed innovations from professional skincare providers like Dermalogica, Elizabeth Arden PRO, Jean D’Arcel, O Cosmedics, PAYOT, and Pevonia. On the show floor, beauty visitors were also treated to new product previews from coveted industry brands like Napoleon Perdis, Lycon Cosmetics, Runway Room, Inglot Cosmetics, Kryolan and more. Those who wanted to further their education gained new professional skills from a varied line-up of ticketed education sessions covering topics like makeup artistry, nail art, finding and retaining the best salon staff, successful social media practices for salon businesses, and a Business of brows bootcamp. The sessions are designed to provide the industry with independent and relevant education so that beauty professionals retain a competitive advantage in a concentrated and professionally challenging industry. Visitors also had access to Hair Expo POP UP, an education-led event for 2017 by Hair Expo Australia. Hair Expo POP UP presented hairdressers and others in the hair and beauty industries with a boutique selection of products to demonstrate and purchase, along with business education sessions. Conceived after Hair Expo’s successful show in Melbourne in 2016, POP UP aims to address the location variance of Hair Expo’s main show as it rotates annually between Sydney and Melbourne. The 2017 event will be hosted at the new International Convention Centre (ICC) Sydney in Darling Harbour, with the 2018 event returning to the MCEC.

BEAUTY ICONS A MUST SEE AT #BHBE With less than two months until the third annual Brisbane Hair and Beauty Expo, the sunshine state is abuzz with excitement for some of Australia’s leading beauty experts presenting at this year’s event. Industry icons including Rae Morris, Mia Connor, Joy Crossingham and Jonny Diep Pham will be delivering education sessions highlighting the latest techniques, products and communication methods for you to take away and implement immediately in your salon or business. FEATURING ON SUNDAY 30 JULY • Rae Morris ‘Building your bridal business’ • Emma Hobson, supported by Dermalogica ‘Communicate with confidence’ • Julie Piantadosi ‘Building your dream team’ • Jimmy O’Brien, Francesca Webster (Brazilian Beauty), Jaye Edwards ‘Are you ready to build a mutli-site salon empire?’ FEATURING ON MONDAY 31 JULY • Mia Connor ‘Luminous Skin & Smokey Eyes’ • Jonny Diep Pham ‘Mastering Salon Nail Art & How To Add Extra Income To Your Business’ • Joy Crossingham ‘Revealing the secrets of MEGA volume lash application • Julie Piantadosi ‘Retail Revolution’ Tickets are selling fast and with over 6,000 attendees expected through the Expo doors across Sunday 30th July and Monday 31st July make sure you do not miss out!

All education bookings and tickets can be purchased at www.brisbanehairandbeautyexpo.com.au

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COVER STORY

INFUSION OF ACTIVE SUBSTANCES WITH MICRO-NEEDLING Creating Procedural Safety By Dr. Andrew R. Christie

Whilst the moral of these stories may appear to be “watch what you inject into the skin”, the reality is much more complex with far greater consequences to be considered. *Image courtesy of E! Entertainment/ Xposurephotos.com

WHEN THINGS GO WRONG All too frequently we come across industry ‘disaster stories’ where a patient’s face or body has been injected with some product which quite simply was not designed for that purpose. Consider Rajee Narinesingh, whose face was injected with cement and tyre sealant. What resulted from a black market ‘plumping party’ she had attended in 2005 were heavy, rock- hard, dried cement nodules permanently embedded in her cheeks. Monique Allen had over 12 litres of liquid plastic and silicone injected into her body in around 75 backstreet operations. Allen claimed, “the doctor would numb you then attach a funnel to whichever part of your body you wanted, then screw a vial of silicone on and pump it in”. Over the years, the silicone has migrated around her body, rendering her permanently disabled, with patches of disfiguring skin necrosis and ongoing infections. Such scenarios however are not just limited to the lower socio-economic or blackmarkets, consider Daniel

Tomas Fuente, an unlicensed medical practitioner in the USA (though a doctor in his native Argentina) who was operating an injectables clinic out of the bathroom of Lionel Richie’s then wife. His injection of unapproved “anti-wrinkle” cocktails into his celebrity clientele, resulted in a bevy of complications, including nodules affecting facial movement and what one patient described as permanent “holes” in their face around the site of injection. Dr Daniel’s patient’s included Diane Richie, Priscilla Presley and Shawn King (the wife of Larry King). The relationship between injections and micro-needling substances into the skin is far closer than many of us may think.

MICRO-NEEDLING & DERMAL INFUSION

Under normal circumstances, a topically applied solution (think ampoules, serums, masks and moisturisers) cannot break through the skin’s barrier function (also known as the acid mantle).

In 2015, RXI Pharmaceuticals (a Massachusetts based biotechnology company focused in the development of dermatology drugs), performed a study evaluating how effectively substances could be infused into the skin via micro-needling. For this independent study, a Dermapen 3 automated needling device was used to infuse a waterbased marking dye into real skin.

“What this study concluded can only be described as simultaneously fascinating and frightening.” Following the procedure, the samples were then processed for histology/biopsy. What this study concluded can only be described The same volume of solution on the same surface area that has been needled into the skin using a Dermapen 3, at speed 4 at a depth of 1mm with multiple passes.

*Image courtesy of Barcroft Media

as simultaneously fascinating and frightening. What this study proves is that the puncture channels created by micro-needling DO deliver active substances beyond the acid mantle into the lower layers of the dermis. In short, needling can be more effective than injection to disperse and saturate certain agents into the skin. The homecare needling market (using rollers or automated devices) has always capitalised on the hope that it will ‘deliver’ one’s favourite topical skin care product deeper into the skin. This has then fuelled an alarming trend across both the homecare and professional aesthetics markets where ‘any old’ product is physically punctured, pushed and implanted into the skin with the hope for a deeper absorption and greater result. Nothing could be further from the truth with this risky practice.

*Images courtesy of RXI Pharmaceuticals, Dermapen evaluation for delivery to the skin, December 2015, Massachusetts USA

MICRO-NEEDLING & INFUSION RISKS

MESOTHERAPY & MOLECULAR WEIGHTING

In 2013, USA based dermatologist Razieh Soltani-Arabshahi observed patients who had developed facial granulomas following a micro-needling procedure for skin rejuvenation. A granuloma is a collection of granulation tissue formed in response to infection, chronic inflammation and the presence of foreign bodies. Soltani-Arabshahi noted that biopsies of the skin of all patients presented “foreign type granulomas”. Soltani-Arabshai further noted “In cosmetic practices, various cosmeceuticals are applied before microneedling to enhance the therapeutic effects. This results in intradermal tattooing of the topical product. Despite rapid increase in the use of microneedles in dermatology, there are few data about their safety”.

Coined as a term in France in 1958, mesotherapy is multiple injections of pharmaceutical grade actives into the skin. Not only are the actives selected and laboratory-manipulated to ensure skin affinity when injected or infused, but the actives are molecularly weighted to enable free movement in the skin without accumulating, becoming stuck or causing granulomas. Superficial fillers (designed for hydration) and vitamin injections (for skin boosting and rejuvenation) are common forms of mesotherapy, these may only be performed by a medical practitioner. Unlike hyaluronic acid found in deeper fillers which is cross-linked to create volume, density and duration, the actives used in mesotherapy are not cross-linked to promote easy flow and flexibility.

2 of the patients in the study were subsequently treated with topical and oral corticosteroids with no success, they were then prescribed doxycycline hydrochloride and minocycline hydrochloride anti-biotics. If left untreated, granulomas have the potential to form into nodules and create the deposition of fibrous tissue. Soltani-Arabshai concluded “Application of topical products prior to microneedling can introduce immunogenic particles into the dermis and potentiate local or systemic hypersensitivity reactions”. In other words, products which possess a large molecular weight or which are not designed for infusion into the skin appear to pose an almost guaranteed risk. These risks include granulomatous reaction, papules, nodules and scar tissue.

covery

Here are the post-operative effects experienced by three participants of the study:

Products designed for injection or for infusion (via micro-needling) adhere to strict criteria ensuring their safety not just ON the skin but IN the skin as well. Molecular weighting of an active ingredient is paramount to virtually remove the risk of granulomas, nodules or formation of scar tissue. The system that measures atomic mass or molecular weighting of a substance is known as a Dalton. For tiny structures such as peptides, proteins and hyaluronic acid, these are measured by kilodaltons (kDA) which are 1000 Daltons. The lower the number, the smaller the molecular weight. The higher the number, the larger the molecular weight. Before using an ampoule, serum, cream or product as a procedural glide or to infuse into the skin during a micro-needling treatment, here are questions you must ask to ensure procedural safety and patient duty of care. Likewise, the same questions should also be asked of any product representative trying to convince you to use their product line for your micro-needling procedures. If you or they cannot deliver an acceptable answer for ANY of these questions, DON’T TAKE THE RISK and find something more suitable for use.

Cooling

biotics and copper

Thermo-regulators balance

s deliver potent

the effects of heat, redness

kin repair.

• What is the name of the measurement system used to determine molecular weight of a substance? • What is the average molecular weight of the product you wish to infuse into the skin? • Is the product specifically designed for injection or for infusion with skin needling? • Are the active ingredients safe to be infused physically into the skin with no harm? • Is product purity ensured via aseptic or sterile packaging? What is the preservation system to ensure ingredient stability and activity?

and itching.

*Images courtesy of Dr Razieh Soltani-Arabshahi et al., Facial allergic granulomatous reaction and systemic hypersensitivity associated with micro-needling for skin rejuvenation, JAMA Dermatol., 2014.150(1):68-72

What these two studies (RXI Pharmaceuticals and Soltani-Arabshahi) conclude are paramount for ANY practitioner who is needling with a roller, tattoo gun or automated needling device: • If you needle a product into the skin, IT WILL GO IN. • If the product you needle into the skin is only designed for topical application or has not been molecularly weighted for infusion, IT WILL CREATE AN ADVERSE REACTION • Needling inappropriate products into the skin statistically WILL contribute to the formation of INFECTION, GRANULOMAS, NODULES AND THE FORMATION OF SCAR TISSUE • Just because YOU CAN needle something into the skin, doesn’t mean YOU SHOULD

DP DERMACEUTICALS – A WORLD FIRST In 2010, Dermapenworld teamed up with the Matrix Biology Institute to create Hyla Active, the world’s first meso-infusion exclusively designed for micro-needling procedures. Based in New Jersey, the Matrix Biology Institute are the world’s leading research and development laboratories for medical and aesthetic hyaluronic acid. Their patented technology features in not only in the world’s foremost and notable injectables but also in DP Dermaceuticals. The Hyla-Fuse complex features in every DP Dermaceuticals product (including Hyla Active) and is a triple molecular weighted hyaluronic acid designed as a standalone active and as an encapsulating delivery system for safe infusion INTO the skin.

e cooling camouflage visit DermapenWorld.com Whilst Rajee Narinesingh, Monique Allen and patients of ‘Dr Daniel’ were injected with inappropriate substances, patient risk and danger remains just as high when inappropriate substances are punctured, implanted, infused, placed and forced into the skin using any form of micro-needling device. As the images from RXI Pharmaceuticals indicate, needling with a Dermapen 3 can infuse and saturate the dermis with an active substance with potential greater distribution than injection alone. At full speed, a Dermapen 3 delivers 1296 puncture channels a second into the skin – no needle on a syringe can compete with that.

The largest molecular weight is just 1800kDA, the medium 1500kDA and the smallest as minuscule as 10kDA. The technology furthermore is non-crosslinked to enable free and easy movement within the skin without the risk of granuloma or nodule formation. The minuscule cont’d over page

COVER STORY

cont’d from page 13

7 REASONS WHY DP DERMACEUTICALS ARE A NON-NEGOTIABLE FOR MICRO-NEEDLING PROCEDURES

molecules can safely be needled into tissue for effortless and safe mesoinfusion. Dehydroacetic acid creates a non-volatile conservation system that ensures intensity, purity and stability. The Hyla-Fuse complex is so safe, it can even be eaten.

DP Dermaceuticals are pharmaceutically developed in a GMP approved facility

An independent study performed by researchers at Monash University in Melbourne shows how molecularly weighted hyaluronic acid not only can break through the skin’s acid mantle, but can travel as deep as reticular dermis, even with topical application.

In the below haematoxylin counterstain test, the same medium (1500kDA) and small (10-1000kDA) molecular weights of hyaluronic acid used in the Hyla-Fuse Complex have been dyed a dark grey and applied topically to a human forearm. On Image 1, a biopsy shows absorption of the medium molecular weight down to basal epidermis. On Image 2, the smallest molecular weight has absorbed down to reticular dermis following just 20 minutes of application. This level of absorption cannot be achieved without laboratorical manipulation of hylaronic acid’s atomic mass.

DP Dermaceuticals are exclusively created for micro-needling procedures

DP Dermaceuticals are molecularly weighted to ensure free movement of actives within the skin. The smallest molecular weight is just 10kDA

DP Dermaceuticals may be SAFELY infused INTO the skin

DP Dermaecutcials may be used on all Fitzpatrick Skin Types and heritages

Aseptic packaging and bio-compatible conservation systems ensure ingredient purity, stability and intensity

DP Dermaceuticals offers a compete range for in-clinic and homecare skin solutions

DP Dermaceuticals may also be used as homecare by the patient. In addition to active meso-glides, the range also features a cleanser, exfoliant, moisturiser, mask and CoverRecover camouflage for pre and post-op maintenance. Specific protocol packs serve as non-negotiables to ensure the best results when combined with Dermapen skin needling procedures.

*Images courtesy of Brown et al, J. Invest Dermatol 113:740-746, Haematoxylin Counterstain Clinical, “Absorption Of Hyaluronan Applied To The Surface Of Intact Skin”, Monash University, Melbourne, Australia, 1999

It is for this reason that not all hyaluronic acids are the same. As with fillers, the laboratorical manipulation and molecular weighting of the Hyla Fuse Complex is a complicated process. This type of technology is not easily replicated nor readily available. Substituting DP Dermaceuticals during ANY micro-needling procedure can be likened to Rajee Narinesingh’s face being injected with cement and tyre sealant – cutting corners greatly increases procedural risk and patient dissatisfaction. 14

Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 3

DP DERMACEUTICALS MESO-GLIDESâ&#x201E;˘ DP DERMACEUTICALS MESO-GLIDES Recent innovations and a reformulation of DP Dermaecticals in 2014 have now molecularly weighted other active ingredients which have been combined with the Hyla Fuse technology to promote the safe infusion and dispersion of substances into the skin. These meso-glides have been specifically designed for microneedling procedures and may be safely used on all Fitzpatrick Skin Types and heritages. With the exception of injectables and PRP used in medical procedures, DP Dermaceuticals should be considered as the ONLY safe gliding medium and infusion agent for micro-needling on the Australian aesthetic market.

DP Dermaceuticals may also be used as homecare by the patient. In addition to active meso-glides, the range also features a cleanser, exfoliant, moisturiser, mask and Cover Recover camouflage for pre and post-op maintenance. Specific protocol packs serve as non-negotiables to ensure the best results when combined with Dermapen procedures.

RESULTS:

DP Dermaceuticals meso-glides enable needling practitioners to customise and enhance their treatments by creating mesotherapy cocktails that can be safely infused into the skin to further treat the signs of ageing, atrophic scars, stretch marks, hyperpigmentation, acne and even rosacea. Just simply mix and match with the base Hyla Active hyaluronic acid solution. The mesotherapy actives are all laboratorically developed, manipulated and weighted for use on major skin conditions without burning, irritating or adding additional downtime. Dosage and percentage are all expertly formulated. Using a Dermapen 3, this injection-free mesotherapy delivers active substances effectively into the skin via 1296 infusion channels created per second.

See:

Mix:

Actives:

Wrinkles

DP Dermaceuticals Hyla Active + Retinal Active

Hyla Fuse hyaluronic acid, retinaldehyde & copper peptides

Atrophic scars

DP Dermaceuticals Hyla Active + Retinal Active

Hyla Fuse hyaluronic acid, retinaldehyde & copper peptides

Stretch marks

DP Dermaceuticals Hyla Active + Retinal Active

Hyla Fuse hyaluronic acid, retinaldehyde & copper peptides

Hyperpigmentation

DP Dermaceuticals Hyla Active + Brite Lite

Hyla Fuse hyaluronic acid, kojic acid, cooper peptides & vitamin C

Acne

DP Dermaceuticals Hyla Active + Brite Lite

Hyla Fuse hyaluronic acid, kojic acid, cooper peptides & vitamin C

Rosacea

DP Dermaceuticals Hyla Active + Antioxidant Cocktail

Hyla Fuse hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, copper peptides & ergothioneine

Telangiectasia

DP Dermaceuticals Hyla Active + Antioxidant Cocktail

Hyla Fuse hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, copper peptides & ergothioneine

Before & immediatley after treatment using DP Dermaceuticals Hyla Active + Brite Lite *Images courtesy of Dr. Andrew R. Christie, Paris, France, 2015

Before & after 2 treatments using DP Dermaceuticals Hyla Active + Antioxidsant Cocktail *Images courtesy of Masako Wright, The Australian Laser & Skin Clinics, Mornington, Australia, 2017

FOR MORE INFORMATION visit DermapenWorld.com For your Authorised Distributor in your country call +61 2 9889 3636 Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 3

FEATURE Turning a Geisha Secret

INTO A COSMETICS INNOVATION By Tracy Byrnes

The title on Victoria Tsai’s business card is Chief Treasure Hunter at Tatcha, the skincare company based on ancient Japanese traditions. It could very well say founder, CEO and product developer. But Tsai has been on a continual hunt to find that ideal combination of living simply and naturally and appreciating this life. And her journey reminds us all that if you have a problem or an issue, odds are good someone else is suffering from it as well. So fix it and build your business around the solution.

LIFE IS A GIFT

As a fixed-income analyst at Merrill Lynch, Tsai worked in the World Financial Center, which was across the street from the Twin Towers. So she saw everything on 9/11.And everyday thereafter. “Every time they recovered another body we knew because they would cover it with the American flag,” remembers Tsai. And then her once-athletic husband got very sick for the next two years after the attacks. “And they still don’t know what happened,” she says. “Plus I just didn’t believe in what I was doing anymore,” says the Jersey Girl, whose parents came from Taiwan. So she knew it was time they had to get out of there. Life is a gift, she says. Don’t waste it.

FIX YOURSELF FIRST

She went back to business school and got a job launching consumer products in China. But she made the grave mistake of testing way too many of those products on her own face. She ended up with acute dermatitis – which is basically a bleeding, blistering red rash – and couldn’t find anything to cure it. In the process of researching a treatment for herself, she learned that the FDA has no oversight over cosmetics here in the States. “Ingredients are innocent until proven guilty here,” she says. “There are no advance protections in place for consumers.” And the chemicals in some of the products she tested were obviously the reason for her current condition. We often forget that the skin is the body’s largest organ and 60 percent of what you put on your skin passes right through into your body. So Tsai got completely turned off by the cosmetics industry and went “the natural, granola route, but that didn’t work either,” she says.

When flying through Japan one day, she came across these blotting papers – thin papers you use to pat your skin and absorb the excess oil. They were made from the abaca leaf, which is more fibrous that a banana leaf, and hammered into a super-thin sheet. Her skin started to dramatically improve with these papers and she learned that the Geisha used them.

OUR ANCESTORS JUST MAY HAVE BEEN SMARTER THAN US

Geisha, which means arts person, are considered almost sacred in Japan. They are the female version of Kabuki actors. Thanks to inaccurate accounts of sexual promiscuity, they have closed down their access to the rest of the world. “They don’t want to be taken advantage of,” says Tsai. But she went back to Kyoto, the center of Geisha tradition, to find them anyway because she needed to know more of their beauty secrets. When Tsai met her first Geisha she was blown away by her beautiful skin – with that white makeup and without makeup. “It was magical to meet her,” she says. She learned that what they put in their bodies they put on their skin. But they didn’t write anything down. For more than 300 years, these traditions were just passed on. She eventually heard that there was one book with all the details, written 200 years ago. When she finally got her hands on it and had it translated, “I didn’t know whether to be delighted or disappointed,” she says. It was super simple: In addition to the abaca leaf, they used green tea, seaweed, red algae, oatmeal, rice bran and Japanese wild roses.

YOUR PROBLEM IS LIKELY TO BE SOMEONE ELSE’S TOO In the Western world, we are taught to believe that future discoveries must be better than what happened in the past. But certainly not in this case. “Visiting Kyoto was like walking back in time. Craftsmanship and integrity are still part of everyday life,” says Tsai. It inspired her and made her believe in something again. And she wanted to keep that feeling with her at all times. It was then she decided to create a company that embodied these simple, old principles. She sold her engagement ring and car to finance it. She took on consulting jobs and was even the superintendent of a building to make ends meet. She found two partners and began the process of creating products -- those blotting papers

-- made from these few ingredients. When the first 10,000 arrived in big wooden crates, she panicked. “I really hoped other people were as obsessed with this piece of paper as I was” even though it wasn’t new or technologically advanced, Tsai says. They put up a little website, “and there were crickets,” she says. The only people who purchased were a few good friends, whom she is forever grateful to. She tried to hire a PR agency but they all turned her down. So she sent samples to magazine beauty editors and makeup artist. And then people took notice. She was soon in every magazine, including O, the Oprah Magazine, and on the Today Show. Calls from stores started coming and today her blotting papers now are in every Hollywood star’s handbag. Her skincare, all made with the same ingredients that the Geisha used, has taken off as well. While the company is private and doesn’t release numbers, 2014 results were made available and total revenue was $12 million.

BE GRATEFUL AND GIVE

Everyone asks Tsai about her “exit strategy” because that seems to be the top question when your company is headquartered in San Francisco. But there is none. “I am on the 100-year plan,” she says. Her intent is to leave the company for her daughter and she wants it to stay in the family for generations to come. And January 2014, they started a partnership with Room to Read, an organization committed to improving our children’s education. So every full-sized Tatcha skincare purchase funds a little girl’s day of school. She has since funded more than 1,500 years of school for girls in 11 countries. “That is how I measure my success,” she says. “That’s how we all should. Life is a gift. Live simply. Go start your own treasure hunt”. Tracy Byrnes has what many might call a dream gig, matching a career as an experienced and well-respected business journalist with her passion for wine. She began a wine column, Wine With Me, for FOX News Channel in 2010 and later started

Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 3

FEATURE

REBUILDING SELF ESTEEM By Ursula Cervellone

In an industry that has been called fickle and shallow, I’m proud to be rebuilding women’s self-esteem, changing the way women feel about themselves, through the art of cosmetic eyebrow tattoos.

I’m founder of Feather Brow Couture and I’m an experienced eyebrow specialist. I’ve built my business on my sensitivity to the value of, and appreciation for the perfectly arched brow. During the pregnancy of my first son, I developed an autoimmune disease, Alopecia, which resulted in my eyebrow hair falling out. In my efforts to mask the baldness and recover my self-confidence, I sought the help of the best eyebrow tattooists of the time and sadly, the results were heartbreakingly less than perfect. Initially I visited the studio of one of the best tattooists and it would be fair to say that my confidence was in tatters. The results we horrific, there was very little consultation about what my face shape suited, discussion about the outcomes and when I looked in the mirror I was horrified. Driven by my frustration, I decided to set up a brow bar, I thought to myself ‘I’m not going to let 18

Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 3

anyone else touch my eyebrows anymore; I’m going to do it myself. I am committed to providing an intimate experience, working hand in hand with my clients to fine tune their vision for their brows, educate them about the process, the after care and potential results before beginning the procedure. Someday I hope to share my expertise and knowledge through a boutique school for cosmetic tattooists, I’m really passionate about raising the standard for the cosmetic tattooing industry and keen to call out colleges that are graduating students without the necessary education and experience to perform the clinical procedures.

aligned to your idea of natural, or bushy, arched or sculpted – whatever the case may be. I absolutely love working with older clients, their skin is so responsive to the treatment and the impact is outstanding, many people remark that they look 10 to 15 years younger. As we age, our eyebrows dip slightly as the soft tissue around the brow loses its fatty deposits – this means the shape that we design needs slightly higher arches. Each design is truly customised to ensure it suits my clients face.

My consultation process involves a thorough measurement of my clients’ anatomy including bone structure, fat pads, face shape and skin tone before making recommendations, developing stencils and testing various styles to enhance my clients’ natural beauty.

Recently, I’ve founded a program to support and celebrate women of courage and strength. The program receives hundreds of nominations from the community, and I now have the difficult task of narrowing these down to a handful of candidates who receive a complimentary Feather Brow Couture transformation. These transformations change the lives of women who have experienced hair loss and skin damage often as a result of cancer or fire damage.

One of the most important things during the consultation is understanding our language, being clear on our interpretations of a style and making sure that my idea of the word natural is

Feather Brow Couture has opened it’s luxurious doors in The eastern suburbs of botany, close to Sydney’s CBD and Airport. www.featherbrowcouture.com.au

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FEATURE

Why women are still the

BRAINS BEHIND BEAUTY

The UK beauty industry is worth £2 billion and growing, yet most of its entrepreneurs are still women. Why? Beauty Bible co-founder and Telegraph business expert, Josephine Fairley explains and offers her top tips for budding beauty brains. Last week, I spoke at a packed-to-the-rafters conference in Westminster called The Beauty Exchange, which brought together budding entrepreneurs with those who’d successfully made it on to the shop shelves. What struck me was that - even though the UK beauty industry is vast,worth more than £2 billion and growing - most of the audience was still female. That chimes, too, with the proportion of new products (especially from natural and organic brands) which land on my desk in my role as cofounder of Beauty Bible. So what’s the enduring appeal for women? (Leaving aside wanting to have nice, smelly stuff in your life. Trust me, if that’s why you’re going into beauty, you’d be better off saving yourself the 18-hour days, and having a splurge in Selfridges). Two things. First, in the spirit of Anita Roddick and The Body Shop – which really did start from her kitchen table – is the flexibility. Beauty enterprises can be juggled (at least in the startup stages) with motherhood and launched, if not on the scrubbed pine table, then in the spare room. Second, insight. Simply, women can bring a personal experience to this area of business. 20

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While men have to sit around board tables scratching their heads to come up with the next great (beauty) thing, we only have to selfreference.

Just yesterday I was having a discussion with some high-powered women about why beauty products matter to them. “It’s literally the only ‘me-time’ I get,” one of them (a banker) observed.

Even the most dynamic women, I’ve found, come over all girlie when they find out I’ve been involved in some way in the beauty industry.

I remember sitting next to Cherie Blair QC at an event, once. When she found out what I did, she suddenly wasn’t interested in discussing politics or feminism. She was far more interested in

talking creams and lipsticks. Certainly, the whole subject of grooming is being taken more seriously. Once upon a time, it was considered fluffy and ‘unfeminist’. Today, making the best of yourself is a requirement, professionally. You need to be able to rival Kim Kardashian on the red carpet - big hair, perfect skin and nails, and flawlessly applied make-up. All this has led to increasing demand for beauty products and services. And I’ve another theory as to why sales are booming: like jewellery, beauty products don’t take up much space in our homes – which are often bursting at the seams. They scratch a spending itch, are relatively inexpensive (as witness by the rise of ‘lipstick entrepreneurs’ during the recession), have a feel-good factor – yet take up relatively little room in our handbags and bathroom cabinets. There’s no question, however, that any female entrepreneur going into this area will find herself in a very crowded marketplace. What’s important, as ever, is real originality: the 57th argan-based facial oil would have to be hand-delivered by a half-naked David Gandy to make an impression on most retail beauty buyers, at this stage. Branding, too: we live in an increasingly looksobsessed world and anyone who stints on investing in packaging will fall flat on her wellmoisturised face. (Unless the messages from

“We live in an increasingly looksobsessed world and anyone who stints on investing in packaging will fall flat on her wellmoisturised face.” your gut are tannoy-loud, packaging design is something you need to run a small, friendsand-possibly-former-colleagues focus group on, before you go ahead with it. Oh, and put any labels on a jar or bottle, then nip into a cosmetics emporium and see what it looks like on the shelf. Every single design looks fabulous at 200 per cent magnification on a 27-inch Mac, which is how designers stare at their work). Lastly, beauty brands need a story – like Balance Me, the highly-successful British aromatherapypowered company started by two sisters (one a former Lancôme PR), who ‘downshifted’ to become aromatherapists/reflexologists, before launching their own brand. Or journalist Alice Hart-Davis, whose Good Things range was created for (and with) her daughter, out of mild horror at the harsh products targeted at most teens.

Echoing my own experience, I generally say to wannabe female beauty entrepreneurs: don’t make stuff; get it made for you. Focus on the PR and marketing, which you’ll do better than anyone (nobody will ever tell your story better than you do). Let someone else experience the nightmare of creams curdling, or bottling lines breaking down (never mind the Health & Safety red tape which macramés round so much of our manufacturing). Do your own product development, for sure – but the reality with scaled-up production is that there’s almost always someone out there who can do it better, and cheaper, than you. Why not let them lie awake worrying about the shipment of lavender oil not making it out of Customs in time for the production run? My other advice? That getting where you want to be will probably take twice as long as you think and cost twice as much as you’ve budgeted for. That’s just reality. (It’s like having the builders in, only to the power of 10.) But if you’ve got a good, original idea – and you can get all these things right, as well as making time in what may well become an 18-hour day to go and listen to inspiring stories from beauty entrepreneurs who’ve made it – then you might yet be the next Liz Earle. Join the conversation with Josephine and TeleWonderWomen on Twitter. Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 3

ua n n A th 6 e th r fo lists Announced

Fina

ABIA

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

A strong panel of Industry experts from all over Australia were this year able to take their time judging entries over a three week period with the introduction of online submissions and judging for this years ABIA’s. More than 250 entries were uploaded to the exclusively created award entry and judging site for the sixth annual Australian Beauty Industry Awards. The Australian Beauty Industry Awards represent the highest accolade within the industry and honour the best of the best in both creative and business categories. Winners of the 2017 Australian Beauty Industry Awards will be announced at the gala extravaganza on Sunday 27th August, held at the newly opened Hyatt Regency, overlooking Darling Harbour in Sydney following Beauty Expo Australia. Tickets for the ABIA’s include an

evening of entertainment, food, drink, dancing and celebration as well as the official Rooftop after Party at Zephyr in the same venue. This years awards will see an exciting development with the Best Salon and Spas now being recognised as winners of their states in two size levels; 4 treatment rooms or less and 5 treatment rooms or more. The two overall Australian Winners will also be announced on the night chosen from the State winners and based on judging points. The announcement of the very popular ABIA Laud Magazine Make Up Artist of the Year and ABIA Refectocil Hall of Fame will be revealed as well as a very Special Recognition Award. This year also sees the introduction of the Best Cosmetic Tattoist of the Year.

Seen as the Oscars of the Beauty Industry, the ABIA’s will, as always, have a few exciting surprises as we celebrate and enjoy this exciting night of nights. Single or table of 10 tickets can be purchased for the gala awards dinner online at www.australianbeautyindustryawards. com.au

GALA AWARDS DINNER TO BE HELD ON SUNDAY 27TH AUGUST AT THE HYATT REGENCY, DARLING HARBOUR. 7PM TIL LATE For more information please contact mail@mochapublishing.com.au

Beauty Biz

2017 AUSTRALIAN BEAUTY INDUSTRY AWARDS FINALISTS BEAUTY THERAPIST OF THE YEAR

Sponsored by Clinical Skincare Amanda Di Cesare, Le Chic Skin & Beauty Amanda Green, Skin ‘n Tonic, Beauty Salon Amanda Marsilio, His and Hers Skin and Beauty Solutions Daniela, Boerma, Bliss Day Spa Erica Wright, Beautioco Jade Mason, Skinsational Advanced Skin Clinic Pru Ashe, Macquarie Medi Spa Renata Bojtos, Face of Man Sharni Taylor, Alkaline Health Spa and Clinic Vaia Pappas, Vaia Beauty

SALON MANAGER/CO-ORDINATOR OF THE YEAR Sponsored by Spectrum Science Beauty Kahlia Wood, Total Bliss Beauty Therapy & Makeup Artistry Kylie Rogers, Skin Fitness

BUSINESS DIRECTOR/OWNER OF THE YEAR

Sponsored by Mayerling Carmen Anuriw, The Skin Fairy Hannah Martin, Eco Spa Jodi Leahy, Miss Kit Jocelyn Derecourt, Cove Spa Karla McDiarmid, Macquarie Medi Spa Leanne Condina, Cocoon Spa Linda Fenech, Skin Fitness Maria Giannoulis, Maria’s Beauty Bar Rebecca Miller, La Belle Medispa Reegyn McElligott, Natural Beauty and Medi Clinic Sandra Dickson, Missie CoCo Face & Body Therapy

COSMETIC TATTOIST OF THE YEAR Sponsored by MBC Cosmetic Tattoo Georgina Schembri Jessika Brigginshaw Katy Sullivan Lou Shannon

BEST MARKETING

Sponsored by Biodroga About Face Hair + Make-up + Skin Spa Keturah Day Spa LashXtend Simply Elegant

BEST SALON TRAINING

Sponsored by the Brisbane School of Beauty Keturah Day Spa Macquarie Medi Spa Richmond Skin Fitness Total Bliss Beauty Therapy & Makeup Artistry

EDUCATOR OF THE YEAR INDIVIDUAL

EDUCATOR OF THE YEAR ORGANISATION

Sponsored by Masters Dermal Academy Australasian Academy of Cosmetic Dermal Science Cameron Jane Make-Up Design The Global Beauty Group The Institute Of Makeup The Ipswich State High School Training Salon

CUSTOMER CARE

Sponsored by Silk Oil of Morocco Bliss Beauty and Body Chanoyu Urban Retreat Cove Spa Keturah Day Spa La Bella Medispa Le Chic Skin & Beauty Missie CoCo Face and Body Therapy Natural Beauty & Medi Clinic Richmond Skin Fitness Simply Elegant

SALON TEAM OF THE YEAR Sponsored by inskincosmedics Bliss Day Spa In Therapy Skin & Body Macquarie Medi Spa Bathurst Natural Beauty & Medi Clinic Richmond Skin Fitness Skin & Wax Solutions The Blushettes The Store in Stylish Black

TANNING SALON/SERVICE OF THE YEAR Sponsored by Naked Tan Beach St Tanning Faux Tanning Studio Goddess Tanning By Gordana Nabu Bronzing Bar

MAKE UP ARTIST OF THE YEAR Sponsored by Laud Magazine Alana Mevissen Bernice Mansfield Christina Rodio Makeup Artist Isabelle De Vries Kristin Martin Lizzie Sharp Nicole Bratis Sheri Vegas Valentina Pintus Vikki Aldridge

STATE BEAUTY SALON/SPA OF THE YEAR 4 TREATMENT ROOMS OR LESS NSW/ACT Sponsored by Dermapenworld Cronulla Skin Sanctuary Melissa Young Beauty Soulful Beauty The Temple Skincare

Sponsored by Beauty Biz Magazine Georgina Schembri Janice Trainer Julia Mann Otto Mitter

VIC/TAS/SA Sponsored by Danne Montague King James Vivian Dermal Therapies Le Chic Skin & Beauty Lush Skin & Body Vanity Makeup Bar & Body Lounge

BEST SALON DESIGN

QLD Sponsored by Belmacil Hope Island Beauty & Medispa Natural Beauty & Medi Clinic Rewind Skin Clinic Ultra Essence

Sponsored by comfortel Cocoon Spa Amanie Beauty LashXtend

WA/NT Sponsored by Jax Wax Cosmedica Skin Specialists Oasis Health & Beauty Skin Tone Mundaring

AUSTRALIAN BEAUTY SALON/SPA OF THE YEAR 4 TREATMENT ROOMS OR

LESS TO BE ANNOUNCED AT THE GALA NIGHT, DETERMINED FROM ONE OF THE 4 STATE WINNERS

STATE BEAUTY SALON/SPA OF THE YEAR 5 TREATMENT ROOMS OR MORE NSW/ACT Sponsored by Dermapenworld Advanced Skin Spa Espavita LAB spa clinic Richmond Skin Fitness VIC/TAS/SA Sponsored by Danne Montague King Blush Professional Beauty Touch Cocoon Spa Lekeyah Skin Rejuvenation Centre Vitality Laser & Skin Clinic QLD Sponsored by Belmacil Airlie Day Spa Whitsundays Ella Bache Mackay In Therapy Skin & Body Simply Elegant WA/NT Sponsored by Jax Wax Advanced Body Image & Spa Lotus Day Spa Bodhi J Wellness Spa Retreat Eco Spa Keturah Day Spa

AUSTRALIAN BEAUTY SALON/SPA OF THE YEAR 5 TREATMENT ROOMS OR

MORE TO BE ANNOUNCED AT THE GALA NIGHT, DETERMINED FROM ONE OF THE 4 STATE WINNERS

WINNERS STATE WHOLESALER OF THE YEAR Sponsored by Beauty Biz Magazine

NSW/ACT - DBC Hair and Beauty Supplies QLD - Profile Salon Supplies VIC/TAS - YN Salon Supplies SA - South Australia Beauty Supplies WA/NT - Prestige Salon Supplies

OVERALL AUSTRALIAN WHOLESALER OF THE YEAR TO BE ANNOUNCED ON

THE GALA NIGHT

SPECIAL RECOGNITION AWARD Sponsored by Mocha Publishing To Be Announced on the Gala Night

HALL OF FAME

Sponsored by Refectocil To Be Announced on the Gala Night

2017 ABIA WINNERS ANNOUNCED on Sunday 27th August Hyatt Regency, Darling Harbour, Sydney THANK YOU TO OUR SPONSORS

B E A U T Y

DERMAL

AROMA COSMETOLOGY By Nicole Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Sullivan

Aroma Cosmetology is the branch of Aromatherapy that deals with skincare, beauty and cosmetics. Essential Oils are used in skincare for both their aromatic and skin healing qualities and when used for their therapeutic properties we use the term aromaceuticals. Essential Oils are naturally occurring hydrophobic, volatile, aromatic compounds that are very powerful, healing and complex. They are extremely small molecules that can pass through the deep layers of the skin and enter our blood stream. They are extracted via steam distillation, resin tapping, and cold pressing the seeds, bark, stems, roots, flowers, and other various parts of certain medicinal or fragrant plants. Essential Oils have been used throughout the world for their healing and aromatic properties for millennia. The Egyptians used aromatic botanicals in the process of mummification â&#x20AC;&#x201C; when preparing the bodies of the deceased for burial, embalmers used various botanicals such as cinnamon, frankincense, myrrh and juniper berry. These days we are still slathering on powerful botanical elixirs in the hope of preserving our skin. I should point out that I am not an aromatherapist though I did study essential oils as part of my Botanical Medicine and Organic Skincare Diplomas: I use essential oils for their therapeutic properties both at home and in creating my botanically based skincare range. When I talk about essential oils, I am referring to organic, wild- harvested and/or therapeutic grade, unadulterated, 100% pure essential oil Here are some of my favourite aromaceutical essential oils for skincare.

HELICHRYSUM

(Helichrysum Italicum) Helichrysum â&#x20AC;&#x201C; known as Immortalle or Everlasting is a member of the Asteraceae plant family and is native to the Mediterranean region where it has been used for its medicinal properties for thousands of years, particularly in countries such as Italy, Spain, Turkey,

Portugal, Bosnia and Herzegovina. I use this gentle, golden hued essential oil with an aroma of honey and Hay for its healing and regenerative properties - it increases collagen production thus minimising fine lines and wrinkles. It is supportive in the healing of wounds, bruises, and scar tissue, and significantly enhances skin health and increases radiance.

ROSE OTTO

(Rose Damascena) These beautiful, elegant and fragrant flowers have been adored for centuries and are a symbol of beauty and love. Roses have a comforting effect on the emotions and a nourishing, moisturising effect on the skin. I use Rose both for its intoxicating scent and its ability to give dry, lifeless, ageing skin a radiance boost while increasing tone and reducing the appearance of wrinkles. I also use it for its ability to increase the uptake of bio actively nutritional ingredients in my formulas and its anti oxidant content. In 2010, Chinese researchers published a study uncovering that rose oil exhibited one of the strongest bactericidal activities compared to 10 other oils. They also discovered that just after five minutes of a 0.25 percent dilution, Propionibacterium acnes (the bacteria responsible for acne) was completely destroyed! This precious skin loving oil is beneficial for all skin types from Acne to Dry and Mature as well as for those who suffer from Rosacea and have Sensitive skin.

CACAO CO2 EXTRACTED ABSOLUTE

(Theobroma cacao) Cacao absolute is extracted from the bean or pod of the cacao tree, botanically known as Theobroma cacao, which comes from Sterculiaceae family. It is dark brown in colour with a deep chocolate aroma. The reason I love using cacao CO2 absolute in my formulas is because Cocoa is

a rich source of the anti oxidant compounds - polyphenols and flavonoids, specifically flavanols. A research team in South Korea found that cocoa contains more polyphenolic compounds and a higher antioxidant capacity than teas and red wine. Because antioxidants are effectively neutralising free radicals and preventing damage in the skin they affectively help to prevent a loss of firmness and elasticity and help to prevent wrinkles caused by sun damage. Who doesn’t like chocolate the sent of this extract is simply delicious.

FRANKINCENSE

(Boswellia carterii) This resinous, slightly spicy oil is thought to be a superior anti-ageing essential oil. It was often used as an ingredient in mummification and is thought to rejuvenate mature skin. Frankincense oil may also help in healthy cell regeneration and keep existing cells and tissues healthy. It’s useful for skin health, and can help treat dry

skin, reverse signs of ageing and reduce the appearance of stretch marks and scars. The most exciting news of all is research showing Frankincense can target and kill cancer cells. This ancient oil smells divine and is incredibly healing so what’s not to like.

NEROLI

(Citrus aurantium dulcis) Also known as the ‘Queen of Essential Oils’, Neroli is extracted from the fragrant flower of the Seville orange tree. One of the most precious oils on the market today. This incredible smelling anti ageing skin regenerating essential oil is extremely effective in reducing and healing scar damage and stretch marks caused by acne or pregnancy. Neroli oil with all of its extensive benefits is very easy to use on all skin types due to its non-sensitizing and non-irritating nature. It is also one of the only citrus oils that are not phototoxic. Neroli oil regenerates the skin from a dermic level making the effects of this ingredient

a main contender in the fight against ageing. So as you can see Essential Oils play an important part in Natural Skincare but it should not be forgotten that they are extremely powerful, complex compounds. Their use is highly regulated in the EU where cosmetic regulations require that 16 of 26 allergens/ sensitisers present in some essential oils are declared on both skincare and perfume boxes when used at a certain level. If you are sensitive to essential oils the good news is that there are quite a few natural brands now offering essential oil free products. Either way there is something to suit everyone’s skincare needs in the world of High Quality Natural/Organic Skincare. Nicole O’Sullivan is the owner of the luxury organic range www.wildcraftedorganics.com.au.

Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 3

DERMAL

BLUE LIGHT TREATMENT FOR ACNE Blue light therapy can kill up to 99.99% of acne bacteria it reaches with multiple treatments, but you can’t achieve long-term blemish-free skin without a complete acne care system. For centuries, people who had acne were told that they needed the sun to “dry out” their skin. While both dryness and sun are enemies of healthy skin, it turns out the old advice to expose acne to the light of day was partially correct. Visible blue light, it turns out, can kill acne. • Visible blue light kills acne bacteria. • Three blue light treatments kill about 99.99% of acne bacteria that the light reaches, although some acne bacteria live deep in pores. • Red light therapy can help shrink the sebaceous glands that produce the oil that clogs pores. • Light treatment alone, however, only treats blemishes and pimples after the fact. • A complete acne care system is always needed in addition to blue light treatment of acne. Blue light treatment helps you get control over acne, but a complete acne care system helps you keep control over acne.

HOW KILLING BACTERIA HEALS ACNE

out” so they can move on to another pore first by consuming excess sebum. They break down skin oils into essential fatty acids that are beneficial to them but harmful to the bacteria. This can keep them in check. But if the problem is the pore is clogged with dead skin, then the bacteria have another way out. Bacteria release chemicals sensitising surrounding skin cells to inflammatory chemicals released by the human immune system. The immune system releases histamine and interleukin-8 to attack the bacteria, but winds up attacking the skin. A pimple pops up and provides the bacteria an escape route. Many bacteria are killed by the immune system, but many survive to colonise another pore.

Skin pores sit on top of oil-producing sebaceous glands. The sebum produced by these glands keeps the skin flexible, and also helps transport dead skin cells from the bottom and the lining of the pore up to the surface of the skin where they can be rinsed away.

“Bacteria release chemicals sensitising surrounding skin cells to inflammatory chemicals released by the human immune system.”

Sometimes dead skin cells clump together and clog the pore. Or inflammation of the skin triggers production of excessive amounts of skin oil. When this happens, acne bacteria can be locked inside. The bacteria attempt to “break

Killing bacteria stops them from making skin sensitive to inflammation. But just killing bacteria does nothing to stop production of excess skin oil or to repair the skin. Killing bacteria is always

Before getting into how blue light kills acne bacteria, it is helpful to review how killing acne bacteria cures acne. Many people suppose that if they just kill acne bacteria, all their acne problems are over. The fact is, bacterial infection is just part of the problem of acne.

Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 3

just part of acne skin care. It’s also necessary to follow a skin care routine to keep the skin in balance.

HOW BLUE LIGHT KILLS ACNE BACTERIA Acne bacteria are killed by visible blue light, that is, light you can see, not UV light, of wavelengths between 407 and 420 nanometers. The bacteria have pigments in their protective cell membranes that resonate at those frequencies. These pigments break down the membrane, eventually killing the bacterium

Oddly enough, your immune system plays a big role in the formation of acne. On a Petri dish, three exposures to blue light kill about 99.99% of acne bacteria. In the skin, the kill rate is not as high. That is because blue light cannot reach very far into the skin, and acne in deep pores or in cysts beneath skin are unaffected. Even so, many people who use blue light report noticeable results in as little as a day, because killing bacteria stops inflammation—the immune system stops producing inflammatory chemicals to kill bacteria because the bacteria are already dead.

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DERMAL

EXPLORING THE BENEFITS OF

MICROCURRENT By Teri A. Wojak

Microcurrent (MC) is popular not only in medical offices, but also in medical spas and day spas. It can stand alone as a treatment or be easily added as an adjunct to other skin care services including facials, microdermabrasion, derma planing, micro needling and oxygen treatments. This article will take a look at the skin care benefits of MC, but first it will take a deeper dive into the human body’s own electricity and how outside electric current can interact with human cells.

BIOLOGY AND ELECTROMAGNETISM

The human body relies on the continuous flow of electromagnetic signals to function. Electric current flow is always accompanied by a magnetic field and vice versa—one cannot exist without the other. Therefore, the proper name for electrical current flow is electromagnetic current flow. For the sake of simplicity and ease of reading, electromagnetic current flow may be referred to as electrical current in parts of this article. Electromagnetic energy is the foundation upon which chemistry is built—all atoms and ions have 28

Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 3

either a positive or a negative electric charge. Their charge allows them to bond to the opposite charge and form complex molecules. Amino acids and proteins are large structures of such chemical compounds, and cells are built from these structures. Therefore, biology depends on electromagnetism, and without electricity and magnetism, life cannot be sustained. All cells in the human body communicate with each other through electrical signals. As the membrane potential (voltage across the lipid layer) varies due to ionic concentrations, the resulting change in the cellular electromagnetic field affects the neighboring cells.

THE NERVOUS SYSTEM

There is a special group of cells called neurons or nerve cells. These elongated cells can transmit electrical impulses over long distances. This phenomenon is called an action potential. Action potentials are created by rapid exchange between intracellular and extracellular ions (mostly sodium and potassium). All cell membranes, including neurons, have multiple channels or gates that allow the flow of ions into and out of the cell. As humans age, the ionic transport across the cell membrane diminishes, and this affects one’s health. The nervous system can be likened to a complex

electrical network with multitudes of inputs and outputs. Although there are differences between how the nerves transmit electricity versus copper wires used in electrical circuits, the basic premise is the same: a command is initiated from a central location (the brain); it is translated into an electrical signal traveling down the neural pathways (spinal cord and periphery nerves); and it arrives at a destination to perform the desired task (e. g. contract a muscle). Unlike manmade electrical circuits, the human body transmits signals utilising both chemicals and electricity (and magnetic field). Each neural pathway has several synapses in which electrical current is translated into chemical exchange of neurotransmitters. These special messengers travel across the synaptic cleft and are received by receptor proteins, where they trigger subsequent action potentials. As humans age, neurotransmitters and their corresponding neuroreceptors deteriorate and do not perform as efficiently. The consequences are both internal and external; as organ functions are reduced, visible signs of ageing become apparent, etc.

MICROCURRENT

MC is a form of electrotherapy in which the device delivers between 10 to 500 micro-amps (millionth of one amp) of electric current to the body. Fun fact: The amount of electricity generated by these devices is so low, it would take 2,000 MC machines connected together to light up a single light bulb. The body perceives this low-level stimulus as natural and therapeutic. Therefore, MC can be regarded as an auxiliary electromagnetic energy source to replenish the bodyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s energy deficits. Research shows proper MC application can promote homeostasis by increasing adenosine triphosphate (ATP), a basic source of energy synthesised from nutrients through the process of cellular respiration. This increase in ATP facilitates ionic exchange across the cell membrane and improves nerve conduction. It is also shown that MC increases fibroblast production, affecting both collagen and elastin levels.

SKIN BENEFITS OF MICROCURRENT

Since all cells communicate through electrical signals, it makes sense that these signals will increase energy within skin cells allowing for a more youthful appearance. Wrinkle reduction. MC increases the production of fibroblasts, which are cells responsible for building collagen and elastin. This action has shown its ability to not only reduce fine lines and wrinkles, but also firm sagging skin and improve skin integrity. For this reason, MC has been successfully used for wound healing by trauma clinics and in sports medicine.

Skin firming. MC is most commonly known as a workout for facial muscles, which it does achieve, but not in the way most people think. The low level electrotherapy can be used in specific sequences to help strengthen and lengthen specific muscles beneath the skin to allow for a firmer appearance. Many clients and technicians alike believe results are only achieved when the muscle contracts, but it is quite the contrary. When the muscle contracts, it is likely due to a stronger current being delivered and can be counterproductive. The purpose is to retrain the muscles by delivering low-levels of electrical current in varying ways with repeated movements. The treatment is frequently performed with probes, placed at the insertion and origin of the muscles. When the probes are moved toward each other, they work to strengthen the muscles. When the probes are moved away from each other, they work to elongate the muscles (see images below). Reduced inflammation. In a medical setting, MC can be used pre- and post-operatively to promote natural healing and to reduce swelling by stimulating lymphatic drainage. Improve tone. MC also increases circulation, making the skin look more vibrant and youthful as it is increasing the supply of nutrients to cells.

TREATMENT TIME

There are several devices on the market and varying ways of using these devices to obtain results. Results are dependent on the device used, the treatment technique by the technician and the condition of the clientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s skin. Most clients see an immediate lifting following an in-office treatment; however, long-term results are seen after a series of treatments. A series of six-to-12 treatments are often needed and can be spaced anywhere from twice a week to once a month and eventually quarterly for maintenance. There are several MC devices made specifically for home use. The home devices should be used at least five times a week and the results can take several weeks or months to be seen,

as these cumulative treatments use lower levels of current. MC can be delivered by the technician through specialized gloves that are infused with silver to assist with conducting the current. Benefits of the gloves include exfoliation and antimicrobial effects due to the silver. Using the gloves also allows the technician to feel any nodules in the muscles or other areas where the treatment should be concentrated. Therefore, the gloves are often used at the beginning of the treatment before the probes. There are also adhesive electrodes that can be placed methodically, and these assist in reducing inflammation as well as penetrating product into the skin. The different methods of applying MC can be used simultaneously.

SET EXPECTATIONS, DELIVER RESULTS

It is important to give clients realistic expectations with any MC device. As always, under-promise and over-deliver. Like other treatments used for skin rejuvenation, results are dependent on the individual. It is important that the technician has a strong understanding of anatomy, especially the structure and function of the muscles in the face and the neck. Technicians must also be properly trained on the device to ensure consistent results. As always, the client is responsible for results as well by maintaining a healthy lifestyle and a preventative skin care regimen. When all is done correctly, clients tend to be happy with the results, making MC treatments a commonly sought out procedure by clients concerned with the signs of ageing. Teri A. Wojak, a licensed esthetician of 20 years, is an authority on skin care in a medical setting, education and business. She is director and educator at True U Esthetics, co-author of Mastering Medical Esthetics and author of Aesthetics Exposed: Mastering Skin Care In A Medical Setting and Beyond. She is also a member of the Skin Inc. Editorial Advisory Board.

Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 3

PROFILE

JUST SKYN

Just Skyn Beauty was founded by Canadian born Kerry Sitzer 7 years ago and is ranked in the Top 10 Beauty Clinics on the Gold Coast. It has also won Ultraceuticals Clinic of the Year and the Ultraceuticals Outstanding Therapist Award. The idea behind Just Skyn Beauty was to take Kerry’s extensive training in Aesthetics & Paramedical Aesthetics, complimented by her 14 years experience in the beauty industry to provide a professional, honest approach to all your favourite beauty treatments. More recently Kerry has begun to venture out into training and teaching her skills to others in the beauty and skin industry. In the near future she will be offering specialised advanced training services for exceptional beauty therapists and salon owners and hopes to eventually create programs and courses for beginners as well! Just Skyn Beauty is conveniently located in Broadbeach Waters and is a 20-minute walk from Surfers Paradise or a short drive from any surrounding areas.

HOW IS THE SALON FINDING THE COMPETITIVE GOLD COAST IN BEAUTY AT THE MOMENT?

As an established business with a highly experienced and well trained team we don’t mind a bit of healthy competition as it keeps us on our toes! However the Gold Coast is currently experiencing an influx of inexperienced and fresh out of school beauty therapists, which can bring standards and expectations down. At Just Skyn Beauty we pride ourselves on our exceptional training and experience, which is why Kerry wants to help teach and train these amazing graduates so that they have better opportunities for employment within our industry! 30

Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 3

WHAT ARE THE MOST POPULAR TREATMENTS? Our most popular treatments are our skin consultation, advanced facials including skin needling and eyebrow styling.

We do an in depth skin consultation on every client that comes through our doors to ensure that we are using the best products for maximum results on their skin. This also allows us to discover their skin goals and to create their personalised ‘Skyn Journey’ for them. Skin needling is still a relatively new treatment in the beauty industry, Kim Kardashian’s infamous Vampire Facial really made skin needling popular in the industry! We’ve had some amazing results from our Skin Needling treatments with the reduction of fine lines, wrinkles, acne scarring, pigmentation and ageing. Eyebrow styling sessions are probably our most popular and sought after treatment at Just Skyn Beauty. Kerry has trained in Canada, America and Australia in eyebrow styling and training and has brought that experience into the clinic, which shows, through the teams work and results.

WHAT HAS BEEN THE BIGGEST BUSINESS CHALLENGE WHEN CREATING A SUCCESSFUL SALON?

The biggest challenge when creating a successful business in the beauty and skin industry is finding like-minded and qualified team members who want to be the best of the best in their field. Another challenge in this industry is trying to

explain to clients that quality and effectiveness of a service or treatment is better than a high quantity of little treatments after seeing a rise in beauty related discounted deals online.

WHAT PERCENTAGE OF THE BUSINESS ARE NEW CLIENTS AND WHAT PERCENTAGE RETURN CLIENT BASE?

Of each new client that comes through the doors 90% become regular clients, we have return clients that have been coming to Just Skyn Beauty since it’s opening 7 years ago! Our return or regular clients are about 85% of our business and we have multiple referrals every day with word of mouth and social media being our two most popular platforms for new clients.

DO YOU THINK IT IS MUCH MORE AESTHETIC OR DERMAL IN YOUR BUSINESS OR IS TRADITIONAL BEAUTY THERAPY STILL POPULAR?

I think that we are definitely seeing clients wanting to transition from the ‘fluffy facials’ and treatments to wanting more clinical and effective treatments for their skin. Customers are becoming more educated and have more awareness of how important taking care of their skin is. They are also more focused on antiageing and rejuvenation. While there will always be a market for that ‘fluffy’ style I definitely believe that the times have changed and people want to do more for their skin that will help them remain youthful for longer. www.justskyn-beauty.com.au

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PROFILE

WE LOVE VITAMIN C! DERMAL TRANSFER SERUM VITAMIN C 15% This clever natural antioxidant has become essential to anti-aging skincare, as it plumps, firms, brightens and de-ages the skin.

Not only does Vitamin C stimulate collagen production, it also helps protect and repair the skin cells. Vitamin C fights free radicals, as well as removing the DNA damage that the radicals form.

stable Vitamin C. It uses a new delivery system that allows significantly more Vitamin C to be absorbed into the skin, without causing irritation.

smoothes out fine lines and wrinkles, while promoting an illuminating effect on the skin, making it brighter and more youthful looking.

Mayerling announces its new generation Vitamin C Dermal Transfer Serum. It’s a combination of pure Vitamin C (15% L Ascorbic Acid), marine extracts and powerful antioxidant – Lipochroman 6 - in a stabilised trans dermal delivery matrix.

Botanical emollients and Marine extracts give Vitamin C Dermal Transfer Serum a luxurious feel. The high level of Vitamin C has been clinically proven to reduce and fade hyperpigmentation of the skin such as age spots and freckles or discolouration that may have occurred post pregnancy.

Dr Lawrence Ho, leading cosmetic and plastic surgeon, created Mayerling Skin Renewal System® in 1993. Dr Ho was a highly regarded innovator in his field, which is reflected in the many awards he was presented.

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Apart from improving elasticity and plumping the skin, Vitamin C Dermal Transfer Serum

Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 3

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PROFILE

Super Hair Removal (SHR)

HAS TAKEN THE GLOBAL MARKET BY STORM We find out how SHR works?

Beauty Biz sits down with Ben Skeggs Managing Director of Spectrum Science & Beauty and Alma Beauty Australia to discuss the globally renowned and patented SHR technology. SHR is becoming a very common term globally when people speak about hair removal technology. Where did SHR originate from? SHR was invented by Alma Lasers in 2016 and has been recognised as the most advanced way to remove unwanted hair (and as the world’s first laser hair removal method that is virtually painless). Alma Lasers are the patent holders of this technology and have SHR trademarked around the globe. Spectrum has partnered with Alma Lasers and is very proud to have the exclusive rights to supply this beauty technology and use the SHR trademark in Australia. How does Super Hair Removal (SHR) technology work? SHR gradually heats the dermis to a temperature that is able to effectively damage hair follicles and also prevent re-growth of the hair follicles, while very importantly avoiding injury to the surrounding tissue. With Super Hair Removal the hair follicles do not get exposed to one single pulse of high energy which is the method of a number of technologies because using a single pulse of high energy can have the risk of injuring the skin. Instead the follicle receives multiple, short, and low energy pulses accumulating enough energy to damage the hair follicle. With the equipment supplied from Spectrum and Alma parameters are provided to ensure the correct accumulated energy resulting in the most effective results. Using a high repetition rate short pulses are delivered deep into the dermis, and achieve high average power which results in therapeutically effective build-up of heat, and best of all virtually no pain for the patient. An In-Motion method is used with SHR by moving the handpiece multiple times over the 34

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area being treated to ensure full coverage of the treated area. Grid templates are used to ensure the most effective results. Glacial Tech cooling is used via a sapphire tip preventing superficial burns and facilitating virtually painless but very effective hair removal. Alma Lasers developed AFT technology that is used in their IPL machines. Can you explain AFT technology? AFT stands for Advanced Fluorescence Technology and is considered an advanced form of IPL technology. AFT converts unused UV light to the optimal spectrum resulting in more efficient energy usage per pulse increasing safety and enhancing clinical results. In combination with AFT technology Alma technology treats pigmented and vascular lesions using narrow band filters which narrow the spectrum for accurate treatments. This means optimal absorption by the melanin, hemoglobin and oxy-hemoglobin for selective destruction (photothermolysis). The reason for this is that there are 2 hemoglobin absorption peaks at ~540nm and ~570nm and after 600nm the hemoglobin absorption drops significantly. Alma’s technology is designed to attain these hemoglobin absorption peaks for optimal results. Within the Alma Lasers range Spectrum offer two machines in Australia that use the patented SHR technology: Laser Hair Removal Machine (SHR) – Alma Remove The Alma Remove SHR Laser Hair Removal Machine offers the safest, most effective laser hair removal solution available today and is

backed by a number of clinical studies. Three technologies combined (SHR, In-Motion and GlactialTech Cooling) beauty and medical clinics can treat all skin tones and a wide range of hair types all year round (365 days a year). IPL Machine – Alma Rejuve The Alma Rejuve IPL Machine is an effective skin rejuvenation system treating: pigmentation, vascular, skin rejuvenation, tightening and contouring of body/face and hair removal. The Rejuve is as effective as laser treatments, and comes with the safety, versatility and low-cost of pulsed light. An option to add Alma’s patented SHR technology is available. We would highly recommend you to take a look at SHR to take advantage of what is becoming the globally recognised gold standard for treating hair removal.. Distributed by Spectrum Science & Beauty 1300 766 198 sales@spectrumsciencebeauty.com.au www.spectrumsciencebeauty.com.au www.almabeauty.com.au

-Super Hair Removal ( S H R ) Te c h n o l o g y

Are you passionate about changing your customers lives through beauty? Offer your clients the fastest journey to their dream results with patented and clinically proven technologies by the inventors of SHR! Alma Remove – SHR Patented Laser Hair Removal Machine Safest hair removal technology for all skin types Before • In-Motion and GlactialTech Cooling • SHR designed to minimize risk of injury to the skin regardless of pigment level • Full support solution Courtesy of Alma Lasers

After

Alma Rejuve – SHR Patented IPL Machine Advanced IPL technology including SHR and narrow band filters •

•

Clinically proven: Skin rejuve, vascular, pigmentation, tightening & contouring for body/ face, and hair removal Full support solution

Before

After

Courtesy BCK Patel, M.D., FRCS.

Phone NOW 1300 766 198 For Limited Time Price Alma Lasers, a trusted global leader in the medical aesthetics sector Distributed by Spectrum Science & Beauty 1300 766 198 sales@spectrumsciencebeauty.com.au www.spectrumsciencebeauty.com.au

MEDI & AESTHETICS

CPCA Welcomes TGA’s Advice for

ADVERTISING OF COSMETIC SERVICES BY HEALTH PROFESSIONALS

The Cosmetic Physicians College of Australasia (CPCA) welcomes the Therapeutic Goods Administration’s (TGA’s) decision to publish directions for health professionals and beauty clinics regarding the advertising of cosmetic services using Schedule 4 (prescription-only) substances, such as botulinum toxin, and the fines that apply for breaching guidelines of the Therapeutic Goods Act 1989. The TGA’s advice serves as a timely reminder that it is an offence for a person to publish or broadcast an advertisement about such therapeutic goods, with the offence attracting a maximum penalty of $10,800 for an individual and $54,000 for a body corporate. Advertising restrictions for therapeutic goods are in place to protect the health and safety of consumers. Prescription medicines are considered high risk products and prior assessment of the patient by a medical professional is required before use. “The CPCA has brought to the attention of the TGA a growing number of instances where prescription only medicines are being advertised to the general public in contravention of the law. Furthermore, some of these advertisements contain ‘time limited’ offers which are also illegal,” spokesperson for the CPCA, Dr Catherine Porter said. To ensure health professionals and beauty clinics continue promoting their businesses and services to consumers, whilst complying with the advertising guidelines for therapeutic goods, TGA Guidelines advise that there shouldn’t be reference in advertisements to individual Schedule 4 items. The TGA has published on its website a list of acceptable terms that can be used to describe certain cosmetic injections in advertisements. Examples of these general phrases include cosmetic injections, anti-wrinkle injections/ treatments and injections/ treatments for lips.

ACCEPTABLE GENERAL TERMS

To enable health professionals and cosmetic/ beauty clinics to continue promoting their businesses and services to consumers, while also complying with the regulatory advertising 36

Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 3

requirements for therapeutic goods, the Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA) advises that there should be no reference in advertisements to individual Schedule 4 items. However, the following acceptable general terms and phrases may be used in advertising: • cosmetic injections • anti-wrinkle injections/treatments • wrinkle injections/treatments • injections/treatments for lips • injections/treatments for fine lines/folds/age lines • wrinkle and lip enhancement/fulfillment/ augmentation • injections to enhance pouting of the lips • injections which reduce the depth of fine lines/ wrinkles around the face/lips

• injections to improve the appearance of chin/ neck/jaw line Other words and phrases with similar meaning may also be used, provided that they do not refer to specific products or ingredient names. It is not acceptable to use acronyms, nicknames or abbreviations of the medicine’s name, which may be taken by a consumer to be a ‘reference’ to a specific medicine or substance. Advertisers, businesses and service providers are also reminded of their obligations under the Competition and Consumer Act 2010 and state and territory fair trading/consumer affairs legislation.

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MEDI & AESTHETICS An Introduction to

INFLAMMATION By Dr Mayoni Gooneratne

There is a wealth of research being conducted into the role that inflammation plays in ageing and disease. As each year passes, we learn more about how inflammation affects all of our organs, and the role it may play in the development of age-related conditions such as Alzheimer’s disease and heart disease, among others. Inflammation is also believed to play a role in cancer progression, autoimmune diseases and allergies: it is a fascinating area of exploration. The Institute of Inflammation and Ageing at the University of Birmingham summarises many of the latest findings and research projects on the News page of its website.3 In this article, I will explore the role of inflammation, and specifically chronic inflammation, in the skin-ageing process. As not only our largest organ, but also our largest external organ, skin is subject to inflammation from many sources throughout our lives. This can be caused by infection, environmental factors or other chemical exposure, and scientists now believe the inflammatory response is a key factor in how our skin ages.

WHAT IS INFLAMMATION?

Inflammation is a natural part of the body’s 38

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response to tissue injury, irritation or other harmful conditions, such as infection. Indeed, the inflammatory response plays an important role in defending the body, and is essential for tissue recovery. Acute inflammation and the immune response helps the tissue to repair or adapt over the short term.5 However, when inflammation becomes chronic (inflammaging), it results in effects that lead the tissue to degenerate. The skin reacts to environmental free radicals and antigenic load damage by activating the immune response

So, what is actually happening within the dermis when inflammation becomes chronic? Although not yet fully understood, a study by Baylis et al suggests that inflammaging is a ‘consequence of a remodelling of the innate and acquired immune system, which in turn results in chronic inflammatory cytokine production’. Essentially, the skin’s natural immune defence mode becomes locked in a repetitive cycle. The skin reacts to environmental free radicals and antigenic load damage by activating the immune response. This causes inflammation and repair, and the production of reactive oxygen species

(ROS) that cause oxidative damage. This leads to a release of pro-inflammatory cytokines, which in turn lead to tissue damage and an immune response: and so the cycle begins again.

WHAT CAUSES CHRONIC INFLAMMATION, OR INFLAMMAGING?

It is currently believed that inflammaging is a consequence of a cumulative lifetime exposure to certain stimulants. The resulting inflammatory response cycle causes tissue injury and healing to happen simultaneously. The resultant cellular and molecular damage, while not clinically evident, slowly accumulates over the years. In fact, there are many stimulants that contribute to the inflammation of the skin. These include environmental factors such as sunlight (UV), pollution and extreme weather, as well as exposure to other chemical irritants such as household cleaners or fabric detergents. Inflammation can also be exacerbated by cosmetic products and perfumes, smoking, and diet and alcohol consumption.

IN WHAT WAY IS IT RELATED TO SKIN AGEING?

In a study by Borg et al, they propose that the pro-inflammatory cytokines, as described in the chronic inflammation process above, play a key role in the appearance of ageing skin, due to their influence on collagen. These cytokines inhibit the production of collagen, which is vital for the health of the skin.9Collagen, the most abundant protein in the human body, essentially forms a scaffold that gives skin its strength and structure. It forms a fibrous network in the dermis, the middle layer of the skin, on which new cells can grow. Collagen also plays a role in the replacement of dead skin cells. It is well known that collagen production declines with age (a part of intrinsic ageing), and also that it is reduced by exposure to ultraviolet light (UV) and other environmental factors such as pollution (extrinsic ageing). It has been claimed by Dr Diana Howard, vice president of research and development for The International Dermal Institute, that as much as 80-99% of the changes we see on our skin as adults is caused by exposure to daylight Research by Borg et al indicated that not only do the cytokines reduce the production of new collagen, they also degrade existing collagen by increasing the production of MMP-9.9 MMP-9 is a matrix metalloproteinase which has the capacity to degrade most of the proteins that make up the dermal extracellular matrix. This affects the skin’s overall appearance and resilience. There are many factors contributing to the loss of collagen as we age, and it is this loss that causes the skin to become thinner, less resilient and more wrinkled in appearance.

WHAT CAN BE DONE TO SLOW DOWN THE PROCESS?

Taking steps to reduce exposure to known environmental irritants, and working to improve

diet and overall health, can go some way to addressing the effects of chronic inflammation. Encouraging patients to avoid the damaging UVA and UVB rays, for example, will reduce free radical formation in the skin. It has been claimed by Dr Diana Howard, vice president of research and development for The International Dermal Institute, that as much as 80-99% of the changes we see on our skin as adults is caused by exposure to daylight. Also effective are products containing retinoids such as tretinoin, which has been suggested to assist in the formation of new collagen fibres However, in reality it is not possible to avoid all possible sources of skin inflammation. Exposure to air pollution, for instance, is something we currently have little control over. So in what ways can we help patients?

TREATMENTS

The good news is that there are many ways that an aesthetic practitioner can address the symptoms of chronic skin inflammation. There are four key approaches that aim to treat both the cause of the inflammation and its effects (such as the reduction of collagen). These approaches all achieve the same aim: the choice of treatment depends on the patient’s preferences. They can each be used individually or in combination with one another. The intention with each of these approaches is to subject the skin cells to a small, controlled injury. This stimulates new skin growth, improving the appearance and surface texture of the skin. The four treatment approaches are: 1. Medical and prescription skincare There is a large variety of skincare products available that contain active ingredients to reduce inflammation and neutralise free radicals. Antiinflammatory ingredients such as L-bisabolol and resveratrol for example, are thought to help reduce chronic inflammation by reducing the proinflammatory cytokine production cycle. 2. Chemical injury Also known as a chemical peel, this takes the form of a topical product applied to the dermis to create an injury at a specific skin depth.

Peels can be superficial, medium or deep, and these differing ‘strengths’ address different skin complaints by acting on different areas of the dermis. Deep peels are particularly effective for photoageing, wrinkling and scarring. They act on the reticular dermis, the lower layer of the dermis, which is densely packed with collagen fibres. The surface texture of the skin is improved by encouraging collagen production. 3. Mechanical injury Using a microneedling device, such as dermaroller, to make thousands of shallow, microscopic needle holes in the dermis is another option. The microneedles are less than 1.5mm in length and only 0.1mm in diameter. The skin responds with the wound healing process, which induces the production of a new layer of collagen in the dermis.18 This technique is effective on photodamaged skin and wrinkling, as well as scarring. It usually takes around six weeks for visible signs of regeneration, and three treatments, spaced around six weeks apart, are most beneficial. 4. Light therapy This approach delivers specific wavelengths of light to the skin to induce ‘damage’ at a cellular level. Depending on the technique used, this may be either thermal damage (photothermolysis) or a biochemical reaction. These distinctive procedures can be used in combination with each other. Both the thermal damage and biochemical reactions encourage an immune response and stimulate regeneration and renewal. Light therapy is a non-invasive technique, and as such, is painfree. The number of treatments recommended is dependent on the individual. Dr. Mayoni Gooneratne MBBS, BSc, MRCS. Mayoni is a medical graduate of St George’s Hospital Medical School in London, and became a member of the Royal College of Surgeons in 2002. She has pursued her career in Surgery and worked in numerous hospitals across London and Essex as part of her training. In addition, Mayoni has developed an interest in aesthetic medicine and pursued further training with the respected Cosmetic Courses at Aurora Clinics. Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 3

MEDI & AESTHETICS

CRYOLIPOLYSIS FAT FREEZING

Cryolipolysis is a non-invasive fat removal procedure, often marketed as fat freezing. It is the cooling of subcutaneous fat cells, which induces lipolysis, the breaking down of the fat cells, without damaging any of the surrounding tissues or the skin.

Cryolipolysis works to reduce fat in specific areas of the body and is most commonly used on the stomach and back. It was originally pioneered through a treatment known as CoolSculpting, which is a trademark of Zeltiq Aesthetics Ltd. Other similar treatments are available using devices such as CoolTech, LipoGlaze, 3D-lipo, LipoContrast and ProShock ICE. Cryolipolysis is not a permanent solution to fat loss; whilst it can reduce fat cells that are already present, it cannot prevent remaining 40

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fat cells from increasing in size so individuals will have to maintain their fat loss either through a combination of diet and exercise or further cryolipolysis procedures. There is hardly any recovery time or any side effects associated with cryolipolysis. Following the procedure, the fat breaks down over a period of two to four months, resulting in fat loss that appears entirely natural. Cryolipolysis costs will depend on the device used and the number of areas treated.

CRYOLIPOLYSIS BACKGROUND

Cryolipolysis is a relatively new procedure that

helps to induce a natural-looking reduction in fat. It’s regarded as a non-invasive alternative to invasive fat removal procedures such as liposuction, as it requires hardly any recovery time. The number of liposuction procedures taking place across the world has increased dramatically year on year – it’s still one of the most popular cosmetic surgeries in the world, with over 396,000 procedures taking place in 2015 in the U.S. alone, according to statistics from the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic

Surgery (ASAPS). Fat removal procedures are becoming more popular as an increasing number of people struggle with their weight, so it’s no surprise that procedures such as cryolipolysis are being chosen by more and more patients. The science behind cryolipolysis was first published in Lasers in Surgery and Medicine in 2008, where Dieter Manstein MD, PhD and R. Rox Anderson and their team demonstrated that under controlled conditions, subcutaneous fat cells (fat cells situated between the skin and muscle layers) are more vulnerable to the effects of cold than other surrounding tissues, and that prolonged cooling of these fat cells can cause those cells to reduce in number, without damaging any of the surrounding tissues; a process referred to as ‘selective cryolysis’. Cryolipolysis is not a permanent solution to fat loss; whilst it can reduce fat cells that are already present, it cannot prevent remaining fat cells

WHAT IS CRYOLIPOLYSIS?

Cryolipolysis is a non-invasive fat removal procedure. It is the cooling of subcutaneous fat cells, which induces lipolysis, which is the breaking down of the fat cells, without damaging any of the surrounding tissues or the skin. Following the procedure, the fat breaks down over a period of two to four months, resulting in fat loss that appears entirely natural

HOW DOES IT WORK?

Cryolipolysis works on the basis that fat cells are more vulnerable to energy extraction – in this case, cooling, than the surrounding tissues. That means that cryolipolysis will break down the fat cells, but not the surrounding tissues. Once cooled, the fat cells then undergo apoptosis, which is controlled cell death. When

apoptosis happens, the fat cell wall breaks down causing lipids (fats) from the cells to be released. These lipids are transported by your lymphatic drainage system to be processed and eliminated through the body in the same way that fat from your food is eliminated. This process is very gradual, meaning that there is no danger of your lymphatic system being overloaded.

For example, clinical studies using the CoolSculpting device show that it provides “noticeable, measurable fat reduction in properly selected patients over the course of two to four months after the procedure”, and that “patients experiencing fat layer reduction show persistent results at least six months after the CoolSculpting treatment”.

“Following the procedure, the fat breaks down over a period of two to four months, resulting in fat loss that appears entirely natural.”

Long-term clinical studies have not yet been completed to show exactly how long results can last, although as long as you maintain a healthy diet and lifestyle, long-term results are expected to remain stable.

HOW LONG DOES IT LAST?

You may start to see changes as quickly as three weeks following your treatment, but will experience the most signs of change between one and three months after treatment. Your body is still flushing fat cells out via your metabolism and will continue doing so for up to four to six months following treatment. Additional treatments may be performed two to four months after the initial procedure to achieve greater fat reduction.

WHAT CAN CRYOLIPOLYSIS TREAT?

Cryolipolysis works to reduce fat in specific areas of the body. It’s most commonly used on the stomach and back. It cannot be used on the breasts and it cannot be used to reduce cellulite, (studies are ongoing on the application of this technology for this indication). If you have a specific area in mind for your cryolipolysis procedure, speak to your practitioner first to see if that area can be treated with cryolipolysis. Ideal candidates are relatively fit and healthy individuals, but have some modest sized, stubborn fat bulges that are not easily reduced through diet and exercise, common areas known as love handles, bra bulges or muffins tops. Cryolipolysis is not intended for weight loss or as an obesity cure, and it is not a substitute for more invasive and larger fat removal methods such as liposuction.

Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 3

EVENTS

DMK AUSTRALIA WINS THE SKIN GAMES IN LOS ANGELES

Last month, DMK Professional Skin Revision Therapists Brehanna Sanders of Just Magic in Mackay QLD and Carmen Anuriw (The Skin Fairy) of Chelsea Skin Clinic in Nedlands WA represented Australia at The Skin Games in Los Angeles, California. This was the first time that competitors outside of the US were in attendance with the Aussies shaking up the local competition. Not only turning the competition into an international affair, but taking out competitive categories such as Acne and Player of the Year – the highest award in the entire competition – won by Carmen Anuriw.

Carmen Anuriw with Danne Montague King

Yet the real coup is Brehanna and Carmen both being awarded the prestigious Game Changer Award, a category open to both medical and nonmedical aligned players! “These individuals have contributed extraordinarily by providing new energies and out-of-the-box thinking to the advancement of The Skin Games and the aesthetics industry, said Skin Games representative Jennifer Rosenblum, ...turning what was originally a national competition into an international one.” Jennifer continued to articulate how both these Australian trained and located therapists helped connect the industry to the vast aesthetics talent abroad and truly raised the bar on The Skin Games competition. DMK therapists dominance of the competition went beyond the Aussies, with fellow DMK professional skin revision therapists from the Ukraine, United States and United Kingdom also significantly placing at the competition – highlighting the strength of DMK’s support for their therapists and on-going education certainly pays off. Danné Montague-King, Founder of DMK was honoured at the event being named Expert of the Year, who announced during his acceptance speech that he was donating the prize money directly to the Harvey Milk Foundation – an equality charity which Danné is the global ambassador of. The Skin Games, saw 50 individually represented therapists over an 8-week period 42

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Brehanna & Carmen

Brehanna Saunders

showcase a skin condition case study in weekly 2-minute videos. At which point category shortlisted finalists were invited to the Los Angeles, California to participate in the rigorous weekend long judging process, including practical, theory and judging panel components. “The judging process was rigorous, but the results are worth it said Carmen Anuriw, the games most awarded entrant, winner of three categories including: Player of the Year, Acne/ Problematic Skin and Game Changer. Once you select your model and category, for the next 8-weeks you must revise their skin and upload a 2-minuite video to document your knowledge and the client’s progress.” Both Australian winners utilised DMK Professional Skin Revision for their submissions attribute their solid education and dedication to results to their success overseas. “I think it’s extremely important to have faith and confidence in your knowledge, training and results, said Brehanna. Coming into the competition I was extremely anxious, I doubted my ability as a therapist because I only have 2 years’ experience. There were many tears shed over my case study- but hard work does pay off!” “We are extremely proud of both Carmen and Brehanna, said Debbie Dickson, Head of Education for DMK Australia and New Zealand. The competition was tough, but the Aussies we tougher! Both DMK therapists showcased what truly wins out in the end and that’s systemically

understanding a skin condition in order to correctly revise it. “I have had the honour of knowing these women for the entirety of both their careers and their dedication to DMK and professional skin revision is unwavering, I am just so proud of each of what each of they achieved.” Other first place winners were: • Stephanie Andersen | Age Management   • Danielle Lawrence | Hyperpigmentation   • Char Fontanills | Best New Esthetician   • Corinna Joy Kavanagh | Holistic Award   • Lora Condon | Compassionate Award   • Open non-medical Susanne Williams   • People’s Choice | Kimerlynn Benton For more information visit http://www. theskingames.com/  Join the conversation: #DMKSkin #DMKrrpm #skingames2017

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EVENTS

BEAUTY EXPO AUSTRALIA 2017 More exhibitors, unmatched education, and better value for beauty professionals when Beauty Expo Australia 2017 takes over the ICC Sydney. Beauty Expo Australia, the country’s definitive trade event for beauty professionals, will return to its Darling Harbour home at a brand new venue over the weekend of 26-27 August 2017, bringing visitors a bevy of exciting brands and new products to see, sample, and shop. Trade professionals will have access to three new education packages this year, providing huge value and improved accessibility to the event’s seminars. The business package will allow access to up to 11 sessions focusing on business for salon owners and managers; while the professional skills package will allow access to up to eight sessions focusing on techniques in makeup artistry and grooming. The dermal package has been created especially for those interested in dermal therapy, with access to up to eight sessions on anti-ageing and skincare. Each package is priced at $199 early bird or $219 full-price, giving visitors the ability to make the most of Beauty Expo Australia’s unrivalled education offering. A single session can be booked for $99 early bird or $115 full-price, and a series of special workshops and intimate business sessions will also be available. Celebrated experts from around the globe and Australia will bring their insights to Beauty Expo Australia this year, including US makeup artist, Donna Mee. Donna will present a business session at Beauty Expo on common mistakes made in the beauty industry and how to avoid them; as well as a creative session on gamechanging makeup tips. Donna runs a popular makeup academy in the USA and her resume of celebrity clients includes Cindy Crawford, Rachel Hunter, and Raquel Welch, as well as designers like Christian Dior, Tommy Hilfiger and Valentino. With demand for stylised brows continuing to surge, Beauty Expo has lined up some of the best brow educators for professionals to hone their skills in brow techniques. Singapore’s renowned David ‘Brow’ Zhang will come to Sydney for a session in Microblading for 6D brows; while Australian brow artist, Jazz Pampling, and 44

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business coach, Faye Murray, will bring their Business of brows bootcamp to Sydney for Beauty Expo Australia, following a successful Melbourne showcase. Jazz will also teach a session on how to perfect skills with shaping and styling men’s brows, and a session on beautiful brow colour. For those interested in broadening their skills with nails, Young Nails will bring global educators to Beauty Expo Australia for a fourin-one workshop. Director of Global Education, Tracey Reierson, and President of Young Nails, Greg Salo, will show attendees the latest designs during a two-hour session covering acrylics, high-performance nail polish, one-step gel and a powder coat system. For skincare professionals, Sarah Hudson will be teaching skin therapists how to harness the rapidly rising male market in a session focusing on the skin men want and how you incorporate this into your clinic; while Dawn Clifford will speak on the business potential of peeling services; and Janine Tait will share her insights on the

Slow Beauty movement and dermanutrition. Speaker and educator, Gay Wardle, will present a session on hormones and anti-ageing, as well as a session on how to treat the five most common skin conditions today. With demand from the skincare and anti-ageing sector peaking, additional space has had to be allocated to showcase the plethora of brands wanting to be a part of the show. A new feature at Beauty Expo Australia this year, visitors will be able to distinguish between brands that focus on natural ingredients in their products and environmental consciousness in their brand ethos, as well as those that are proudly Australian-made and designed. Returning to Beauty Expo Australia in 2017 will be popular show features like The HUB stages, dedicated to makeup, grooming, and antiageing. The nail hub this year will be home to the Australian leg of the internationally renowned Nailympia competition, with a selection of education for nail artists on the grooming hub. A full education schedule, exhibitor directory, registration and early bird tickets for Beauty Expo Australia will be available shortly at www.beautyexpoaustralia.com.au

PHOTOGRAPHER: MICHELE ABOUD; HAIR & MAKEUP ARTIST: SARAH LAIDLAW; MODEL: SHANNON PHILLIPS, CHIC MANAGEMENT.

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HAIR BIZ Forum

EVENTS

2017

Make Up Pops at

HAIR BIZ FORUM 2017

As the official Make Up Partner to HAIRBIZ FORUM 2017 held recently, Cameron Jane Make Up Academy helped 2 major international hair artists bring their show together with make up expertise under guidance of Marija Milisavljevic.

the

Held once again in Brisbane in March and now in its 7th Year, Hair Biz Forum did not disappoint with a full day of education from some incredibly talented international hair teams complimented by business expertise and iconic interviews. Unlike any other day on the Australian Hairdressing Calendar, Hair Biz Forum annually pulls out all of the stops for over 350 business owners, mangers and industry trailblazers, all coming together for networking, education and entertainment. Marilia followed the briefs perfectly for UK hair icons, Hooker and Young in 3 different collections:- Oriental, Seventies feel and Metamorphse as well as high end colour glamour for the CoCre8 Team of Christopher Dove and John Simpson. 46

Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 3

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ON SALE NOW MAJOR EXPO HIGHLIGHTS INCLUDE • An Extended Education Program line-up featuring seminars presented by Rae Morris, Mia Connor, Julie Piantadosi, Jonny Diep Pham, Joy Crossingham, Francesca Webster, Emma Hobson and more. • A host of leading exhibitors including INGLOT, Crown Brush Australia, Girlee Cosmetics, Designer Makeup Tools, Silk Oil of Morocco, Beaute Internationale, Young Nails,Techno Tan and many more.

NEW IN 2017

• Makeup Competitions • Lash Competitions • Nail Competitions • Hair Competitions Limited Entries Available

Entry Tickets, Competition Entries and Extended Education Program bookings are available at:

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TANNING

WINTER TAN PLAN

By Monica Griffin

When the skies starts to turn grey and the temperature begins falling, the weekly spray tanning bookings along with the retail sales of at home tanning products start decreasing. Implementing and encouraging winter tan plans for our clients therefore are a great idea to increase sales in this area. Besides having a small air heater in your tanning room and offering your client giant umbrellas for the back to the car run, tanning in winter comes with a whole new set of rules,.They don’t need to be hard rules necessarily, it is just about educating your clients on a few simple things. • In Winter you really should go a shade or two lighter than your normal summer colour, and realistically the likelihood of anyone seeing your bits outside of your Winter cave is seriously slim, but having a tan is a big confidence booster for clients also. • Salon can look at hosting a WINTERVENTION week, educating clients on what to do to maintain their tan in Winter. Educate clients on “Patchwork Tanning” :This is targeting areas that are still on show under all the layers, such as face, décolletage and arms. This can be achieved by offering your client a retail tanning product to be left on overnight that they can apply, allowing it to dry for 10 minutes, then crawling into their warm bed • Educate your clients on how their skin changes in winter, that their skin can be dry and a little itchy producing a scaly appearance. This is thanks to layers of clothes, wind and heaters etc. Offering clients products with hydrators, show them your knowledge of skin, educate them by offering products that contain Coconut Oil. In salon we encourage our clients to change their facial moisturisers to more hydrating formulations so why not do this for the body. • Another consideration for the face is to add a small amount of their favourite tanning body 48

Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 3

product to their evening moisturiser, mixing together carefully and applying as normal, on the face, neck and down to the décolletage. To reduce the appearance of scaly or lizard like skin, exfoliating in Winter is important, suggest a nice hot bath once a week, complete with bubbles and what would go perfectly with that? A candle from the range that you have in store! As part of your WINTERVENTION advise your weekly spray tanning clients to bring along large trackies or really loose jammie trousers and a boyfriend sweater to put on after their tanning session, that way they will still look cute and feel warm!

Implementing these sorts of marketing strategies through your social media posts, by sharing warming images like girls curled up on their bed with a coffee, blanket, leg warmers and showing off their gorgeous tanned legs, or an image of a client wearing a lace camisole and their jumper showing a bit of shoulder. When it comes time to peel the layers off, your work load will be halved, skin will be silky smooth ready to show off in season! Monica Griffin of Minx Tanning prides herself on the sharing of information like the Wintervention article above. For more information www.missmbyminx.com.au

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Great Bronze by Ella Bache Ella Baché Great Bronze is a self-tanner, tan extender and moisturiser in one that offers a tan that lasts 5-7 days. It contains a complex that stabilises the skin’s pH level and promotes more rapid colour development, while pentavitin offers short- and long-term hydration to improve and strengthen skin’s barrier function. Hyaluronate and liquid shea work together to hydrate skin and keep it soft.

Naked Tan has released a game-changing water resistant 2 hr tan solution that is perfect for the rainy days ahead. With the fastest development time on the market this 14% DHA medium-dark solution is perfect for no cancellations or loss of business due to the wet, winter weather. Get the Naked Tan you love with the added benefits. Not only is this product water-resistant and will repel rain, but it is also resistant to sweating while exercising and will not streak your tan. Enriched with Aloe Vera and Argan Oil to hydrate your skin. This will add value to your in-salon service by retaining customers during Winter and increasing salon sales. It’s raining it’s pouring - Naked Tan is calling!

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Benefit Spray Tan Service Benefit Spray Tan has partnered with SunFX to create a natural based tanning solution free from alcohol, artificial preservatives, parabens, perfumes and potentially harmful chemicals. Spray tan solution can be washed off in just two hours after application. Full tan shade will develop 5-12 hours after application. There are three base shades available that allow for a custom blend. Tan is applied by a qualified Benefit beauty therapist.

Bronze by La Mav® Tan Extender Bronze by La Mav® Tan Extender is a tan extender infused with magnesium and contains natural bioflavonoids cranberry and green tea leaf extracts to boost the development and life of a tan. Coconut, macadamia and avocado oil instantly hydrate, while shea butter and vitamin E nourish skin for a youthful appearance.

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Whipped Dream Tan Enhancer by Napoleon Perdis This product is formulated to deeply moisturise with olive oil, almond oil, shea butter and hazelnut oil, helping to maintain a tan and prevent moisture loss. It evens skin tone and relieves the effects of the sun, helping to restore skin’s elasticity. Apply generously to dry skin. Blend well using massaging movements with warm hands. For extra glow, mix with After Sun Body Oil or Gardenia Glam Shimmering Body lotion. For use on the face, mix a small amount into Auto Pilot Dream Cream. Wash hands after use.

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Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 3

WAXING

WHICH WAX IS BEST FOR WHAT TREATMENT? By Michele Hetherington, National Training Manager for Adam & Eve Wax

Waxes have come a long way since wax strips made their début in the 1960’s. Hot and strip waxes now provide a faster more efficient application; they are more economical and provide greater client comfort. These two types of waxes are made very differently and have been designed to be used in specific ways to ensure minimal damage is done to the skin while removing all the hairs.

WHICH WAX DO I CHOOSE AND WHY?

I mainly work with Adam & Eve Angelic Hot Wax when waxing the face and intimate areas. I use Adam & Eve Coconut and Lime Strip Wax for larger less sensitive areas such as arms, legs, men’s backs and the outer bikini. Currently in Australia, the Beauty Services Training Package includes training methods for hot and strip wax on all areas of the body, though recommends the use of hot wax for sensitive areas. Performing a waxing treatment requires an understanding of the skin to provide the best results. For example; mature skin that is thin and/ or progressing through menopause is extremely delicate and sensitive. Waxing this type of skin requires the use of an oil such as, Adam & Eve Orange Pre-Wax Oil, prior to applying a hot wax to protect the fragile skin. I would also ensure that I use a wax which has a lower melting point such as Adam & Eve Coconut and Lime beaded hot wax and check the temperature before applying.

HOT WAX

Recommended for use on delicate /sensitive areas such as eyebrows, face and any intimate regions. It is applied to the skin slightly warmer than strip wax using a spatula. The wax is spread both with and against the direction of the hair growth and as the wax starts to set it grips around the base of the hair shaft as it continues to dry it contracts and lifts away from the skin. When hot wax is removed, the hairs pull away with very little damage to the upper layers of skin. Advantages of Hot Wax • Sticks to hair not skin, making it less aggressive on removal • Will remove all types of hair • Allows for more precision when waxing • Its workability makes it easier to support the skin when removing • Can be applied on top of pre-wax oil that is used to soften skin whilst creating a protective barrier • Does not require a waxing strip for removal • Less painful on sensitive areas Disadvantages • As hot wax is used at a higher working 52

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temperature, extra care must be taken to avoid overheating the skin during treatment • Application is not as thin or as fast as strip wax • Requires consistency in working temperature • Consistency in application techniques to effectively remove finer hair

STRIP WAX

Recommended for use on larger areas of the body, such as legs, arms and men’s chests and backs. It is applied to the skin warm and is spread in the direction of the hair growth. A wax strip is smoothed down onto the wax, bonding with the hair whilst remaining on the skin. When we remove the strip we also remove some of the stratum corneum and significant moisture is stripped from the upper layers of the skin and the underlying layers are pulled and stretched. Advantages of Strip Wax • Lower working temperature means clients find it more comfortable on application • Application and removal is quicker than hot wax • Less wax is required, and therefore more economical • Working temperature is more consistent than hot wax • Quicker treatment as larger areas are covered with one spatula of wax and speed waxing techniques can be utilised Disadvantages • Sticks to hair and skin, making it more aggressive on the skin when removed • If wax is applied to thick or too cold, it may result in bruising or grazing to the skin. • Can leave sticky residue if therapist is not

proficient in removal techniques or if the wax is of a lower quality • Requires wax strip for removal

AFTER CARE ADVICE

After the use of either wax I always use an afterwax lotion. After any facial waxing, my favourite product is the Adam & Eve Vanilla Lotion as it has an immediate cooling effect, visibly reduces redness and leaves skin soft and protected. It is suitable for all skin types and most importantly is made with vegetable oils and does not contain mineral oil, palm oil or parabens. No matter what the wax I always give the same after care advice: • Moisturise every day with a moisturiser which has a high-water content to hydrate your skin • Wait 4 days after waxing before you start to exfoliate • Only exfoliate once a week as over exfoliation causes an inflammatory response and will result in ingrown hairs and uneven hair growth. • Avoid excessive exercise for the first 24 hours after waxing • Avoid hot showers, saunas and spas for the first 24-48 hours • Avoid sun for the first 48-72 hours as the skin is more sensitive • Avoid tight clothing for the first 24 hours Michele Hetherington is a senior Beauty Therapist and Educator with more than 20 years of extensive experience within the Beauty Industry. Michele has been working with Jax Wax since 2003, her current role as National Training Manager involves liaising with National and International clients, whilst developing and implementing up to date training systems.

Think... Right Wax Right Application HAPPY CLIENT Adam&Eve is now Jax Wax Australia Same great products but with universal appeal For more information call 03 5943 2422 or visit

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Beauty Shop

2 3

1. Blemish Control Pads by Medik8 Blemish Control Pads™ are an effective all-in-one clarifying treatment for adults and teenagers to improve the appearance of problematic skin and help prevent future breakouts. The ultra-soft textured cotton pads are soaked with maximum strength 2% Salicylic Acid, which exfoliates the skin surface and penetrates deep inside pores to dissolve dirt and oil. Natural spearmint gives the pads a fresh smell, and are gentle enough to use daily. Medik8’s unique formula is alcoholfree, unlike many spot treatment pads on the market, which means they won’t cause unwanted dryness or irritation. Blemish Control Pads™ are suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin. www.medik8.com 2. SALT By Hendrix All SALT By Hendrix products are Australian (Sydney) made, vegan friendly and produced by hand in small batches using the highest quality premium yet ethically sourced ingredients. For the Salt Body Care, in almost all products, the brand is proud of the ingredients which are 95% + organic. www.saltbyhendrix.com 3. Ultra A Skin Perfecting Serum by Ultraceuticals Ultraceuticals Ultra A Skin Perfecting Serum is a facial serum that is formulated to support the skin’s own production of hyaluronic acid. It plumps the skin to significantly improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The formula contains a high level of exclusive Ultra-Retio microparticles, an advanced retinol delivery technology.

Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 3

1 Formulated with pure retinol, and supported by pro-vitamin C and the enzyme bromelain, the serum has been scientifically proven to refine and improve the appearance of skin clarity, texture, hyperpigmentation and imperfections. A complex of calming ingredients help minimise the potential for irritation usually associated with retinol use. www.ultraceuticals.com 4. Purifying Cleansing Foam by Guinot Guinot Purifying Cleansing Foam is a cleanser that cleanses the skin, purifies the skin, and rids it of impurities. The formula contains sebocidine to regulate sebaceous secretions and provide microbial action. Suitable for oily skin. www.guinot.com.au 5. DNA Renewal New Packaging + New Lip Balm DNA Renewal, the leading anti-ageing skincare line created by worldrenowned dermatologist Dr. Ronald Moy, has undergone a face-lift. The new packaging concept has been designed to introduce a more premium and luxury look to the brand with practicality and ease of use also at the forefront of the design. To celebrate the introduction of its new look, DNA Renewal has also launched its new DNA Lip Balm as the latest addition in the DNA Collection. This dermatologist formulated, research based lip treatment works to refresh lips with its all-natural beeswax formulation combined with the power of DNA Repair Enzymes. www.dnaegfrenewal.com

6. Teeth Whitening Wand by BLAQ Introducing the latest launch by BLAQ, the Teeth Whitening Wand. This beauty must-have is ideal for bathrooms, handbags and desk drawers for a instantly brighter smile in minutes! The want contains activated charcoal, a natural whitening wonder that swiftly lifts stains and impurities without causing tooth erosion or damaging enamel www.blaqmask.com 7. CND Style Spotlight Titled, Awelye—the Anmatyerre tribal word for women’s ceremonies, the collection paid homage to the iconic indigenous artist Minnie Pwerle. Designers, Edwina Robinson and Adrian Norris worked with Pwerle Gallery, Minnie Pwerle’s grandson, Fred Torres, and great granddaughter, Jade Torres on the collaboration. Three key paintings were selected from the archives of Minnie Pwerle and served as inspiration for the Resort 17/18 collection. ”We feel so blessed and honoured to have been given this extraordinary opportunity to bring the work of this inspirational Australian artist to new life, and new audiences through our resort collection” the design duo noted. www.cnd.com 8. Hydr8™ B5 Hand Cream SPF 15 by Medik8 Featuring the same multi-level hydration properties as Medik8’s best-selling Hydr8™ B5 Skin Rehydration Serum, this innovative hand cream provides intensive nourishment and protection for tired, overworked hands. The fastabsorbing, citrus-scented formula leaves hands instantly soft, but never greasy. Thanks to hyaluronic acid – a hydrating molecule that draws moisture from the air into the skin – the hands feel intensely hydrated while Anti-pollution Technology and Broad Spectrum UV Filters fight against environmental aggressors, including pollution and sun damage. Suitable for all ages, the nourishing cream offers optimum care and protection for young, vulnerable skin, as well as anti-ageing benefits for tired, overworked hands. www.medik8.com.au

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7 9. CM Glucan Complex by Dermaviduals Provides excellent skin protection and is recommended for barrier disorders. The agent accelerates skin healing and protects the skin against bacterial infections. CM Glucan can be used for sensitive skin both before and after sun. It provides some photo-protection against UV-says. Recommended for use after peeling, laser treatment and shaving. It can be used as an additive for body lotions or apply by adding to DMS®-base creams. It can be used as a local skin treatment by dabbing the pure concentrate sparingly to the skin. www.dermaviduals.com.au 10. Berry Beautiful Gift Box by Skin Juice Skin Juice Berry Beautiful Gift Box is a natural and organic skincare gift set, ideal for an indulgent at-home spa treatment. Packaged in a berry purple coloured box, it contains Berry Fresh Antioxidant Rich Cleansing Oil-Gel (150mL), Berry Bath Drops Essential Oil Blend (15mL), Berry Buff Smoothie Body Scrub (200mL). www.skinjuice.com.au

MAKE UP

Cosmetics Foundation Palettes by DMK DMK Foundation Palettes contain shades that makeup DMK Cosmetics individual foundations. Palette shades can be mixed to create a brighter or darker shade or to contour. It features a high pigmentation factor of up to 53 per cent. Contains botanical complex biocene and an organic compound to prevent the growth of microorganisms on contact. Foundation contains high quality ingredients and no oils. The silicone-based foundation delivers a smooth finish that provides all day coverage.

pure skin perfecting mineral foundation by asap asap pure skin perfecting mineral foundation is a lightweight and long lasting formulation that provides a smooth, natural finish. Contains natural minerals combined with revolutionary active technology to improve skin health, reduce the appearance of pores and stimulate skin cell production. Provides SPF15 and anti-pollution protection for healthier, younger looking skin.

www.asapskinproducts.com

Miss Jean Lipstick by Napoleon Creamy, silky and luxe in comfort and texture, take your pick from matte, metallic or shimmer for instant, rich colour payoff. Infused with smouldering pigments for instant colour laydown, the nourishing blend of ingredients leaves lips soft and infused for long-lasting wear.

www.napoleonperdis.com

www.dannemking.com

Serena Fox introduces Garbo & Kelly Inspired and mentored by one of the world’s most renowned brow experts and with more than twenty years experience in the world of beauty, Carolyn Fox launched ‘Garbo & Kelly’ in January 2017. Carolyn studied under Anastasia Soare in her Beverly Hills Salon in 2004, and is one of only a select few to have been personally trained by Anastasia; a privilege, as her time was in such high demand. Since incorporating the revolutionary eyebrow transformation technique she learnt in her Gold Coast salon of 20 years, Carolyn is credited as one of Australia’s ‘top brow experts’, and has made her mark in the beauty world as one of the most highly respected and sort after brow technicians in the industry. For decades, Carolyn has shared her passion for enhancing inner and timeless beauty with the Australian market; and her creation of Garbo & Kelly ensures that every woman has the access and tools to create superstar looks.

www.garboandkelly.com

Pegasus Liquid Liner by PONi PONi Pegasus Liquid Liner is a liquid eyeliner with a sharp felt tip for precise application. The water-resistant formula washes off with cleanser, without leaving residue on the skin. It contains ball bearings for a constant flow of liner when applying.

www.ponicosmetics.com.au

Loose Powder by dermaviduals dermaviduals Loose Powder is a powder that can be worn on its own or over foundation. The formula contains light reflecting pigments to mask uneven skin tone, scars and wrinkles. Available in three shades: Transparent, Light Beige and Light Bronze.

www.dermaviduals.com.au

Beauty Pastel Goth Eyeshadow Pastel by Kat Von D Kat Von D Beauty reveals its softer side for Autumn 2017, launching never-before-seen matte pastels and nudes with Kat’s unmistakable edge. Get inspired with Kat’s newest long wear, high pigment, fullcoverage formulas, and then lock your look for 24-hour wear, or break it down completely and start again. Kat Von D Beauty Pastel Goth Eyeshadow Palette Your soul may be dark, but your makeup doesn’t have to be! Kat has a special shout out to all the #PastelGoths on social media: an entirely new palette with 8 all new matte eyeshadows in a range of soft tones, from sky blue and lavender to grunge gray. Featuring Kat’s signature matte eyeshadow formula, each high-pigment shade is luxuriously silky, blendable and buildable so you can create an endless rainbow of looks. As always, Kat hand-drew the iconic Pastel Goth logo for the outside of the palette.

www.katvondbeauty.com 56

Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 3

Accredited Courses SHB20116 Certificate in Retail Cosmetics CUA41215 Certificate IV in Screen and Media CUA51015 Diploma of Screen and Media

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Bridal Makeup & Hair Styling Courses Personal Use Make-Up Courses One on one or group courses available

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THE GRASS IS GREENER ON THE OTHER SIDE, BUT IT’S A DARN SITE HARDER TO CHEW! By Caroline Morgan

Let’s think about that heading for a minute….. Sustaining clients in our ever changing profession is somewhat of a difficult task. With the introduction of so many social media outlets now clients have full access to a range of competitors and don’t mind shopping for the best. Why is it we cling to every client with the thought they will never go anywhere else but at the same time become complacent in keeping a handle on these very clients? Let me tell you a story…… Recently as I was strolling through our local supermarket I spotted a regular client who I hadn’t seen in 12 months….First instinct.. “say hello” so I did. I was genuine asked her how her day was and asked her what’s been happening. Fast forward 2 weeks and she has booked in for every service I have available. At that appointment, I made sure she was a comfortable, services were immaculate, rebooked and ensured when she had left she was happy. I couldn’t help it I had to ask, “so what made you come back”? Her response floored me…. “Caroline you are always wonderful with what you do, I have always loved your service, always loved seeing you….i felt the grass was greener and tested it out. When I saw you at the supermarket I felt it would be awkward, but you just spoke to me like nothing had changed. That’s what made me come back. Because you never made me feel uncomfortable” So why do we cling to our clients and get an air of jealousy if they choose someone else. Is it the clients fault? NO SILLY… Our clients are our income, essentially, if they are gone so is our income I get that, but they are free in choosing who they go to for their services. So we as techs need to step up to the plate and ensure we are providing that exceptional service to keep their bums in our seats. One of the biggest flaws in our industry at this point in time is the amount of APPS in which techs can use

to “enhance” their images for social media viewing. This always gives clients a false indication of the standard of work in which you do. APPS like airbrush and kirakira (that ridiculous sparkling app which can even sparkle your cat) are too often used to present your nail pictures on a social media platform. Clients believe they will have super sparkled smooth cuticle nails when they arrive at your desk with bitten damaged nailbeds and unfortunately they wont. Educating your clients on the possibilities and how we can achieve the best result is imperative. Clients don’t understand, we have sat copious amounts of training to have the best skills and knowledge to pass onto our clients and ensure their quality of service is exceptional. USE THAT KNOWLEDGE! I still watermark my images but do I heavily edit them? No? The old adage, Keep It Simple Sexy still stands. Clients like to feel special, they like to feel comfortable. Why does it get weird when they leave us and we see them in the street? Because WE make it weird. This has been a huge issue in the hair and beauty industry for years and up until now I never really got it but maybe that’s just me? How many times have you seen an old client out and about and taken the whole ninja act too seriously and avoided any contact with them? I personally have never done it. It made me feel uncomfortable imagine how it makes clients feel, after all they know. So when a client heads over to a competitor, obviously researching if the grass is greener. Don’t make it impossible for them to come back. The “I told you so attitude” will make them gawk at the possibility of returning. Keep a level playing field and put yourself in the position of that client. They don’t like being told they were wrong. Obviously they come back to you so enhance that reason. Give them that amazing service! Staying true to yourself and stepping out of that awkward zone will make you stand out from your competitors. Try it! Next time you see an old client, ask them “how have you been”. It shows them that you are approachable. Leave the awkward behind.

FINDING THE COURAGE TO MOVE THROUGH FEAR!

By Julie Cross

Some of you may know that I have a son Thomas who is ‘Autistic’ or I prefer to say he ‘Lives with Autism’. You see he is a young man before he is ‘Autistic’ and we need not let our labels define us. So he may be ‘Living with Autism’ and yes that does provide some challenges with regards to how he moves through life and negotiates certain situations in his life… so although he may have that challenge it seems many of us also have the challenge of ‘Living with Fear’. And I wonder if we really are aware of the impact that fear will have on our lives if we don’t recognise it and move through it. Do you know there will be new friends not made, songs not sung, dances not danced, dreams not realised and goals not achieved, there will be laughs not laughed, questions not asked, there will be parties not attended and rooms not entered, there will be opinions not stated and statues updates not written, there will be sales not achieved and jobs not applied for, there will be hairstyles never tried and sequins never worn, there will sex not had, love not experienced, there will be places not travelled, there will be adventures not had, there will be speeches not made and mountains not climbed. And after all of that, after all of that holding back and letting fear take control, well after all of that at the end of life we will not say... ‘I am so glad I never got on the dance floor that night... I am so glad I never travelled to India like I always wanted too... I am so glad I never asked for the sale and achieved my goals’. No, you will not say that my friends! I know fear can be that sick feeling in your stomach when you are about to try something out of your comfort zone, and sometimes that something is not even hard to do. I still feel it so often and yet I am up on stage speaking, something that is such a big fear for so many people! But you know what I now think when I get that feeling in my tummy… I think that is my sparkle and it is trying to get out. And we ask ourselves, ‘Why is speaking in front of people so fearful?’ Well it could only be one thing, there must be a fear of being judged and not being enough? I mean what else could it be? So we really have got to keep fear in perspective. In times when fear shows up you really need to ask yourself what is the worst thing that could happen? Let’s face it, you will not die if the clients says no to the products you are recommending (in fact they may just buy them), you will not pass out on the dance floor (Ok, that may depend on how hard you go, but

hey you just may have a good time), you will not drop over if you walk on stage and make that speech (Hey you may even feel empowered and get a standing ovation!). So often it is NOT our physical safety we are concerned about, it is our emotional safety! And that is the fear that needs to be moved through so that we can get emotionally stronger and live our best life. Because, if you let it, fear will impact every decision you make in your life. Your job, and every job, requires a certain amount of courage. Yes, sometimes your clients will say no when you ask for the sale, sometimes they may even not like something you did or said, sometimes you will get rejected for the promotion or not achieve the pay rise. So what? This is all a part of life! You are not here to play small; you are here to play BIG! And remember that every rejection, knock back and knock down is an opportunity to get back up stronger and with more knowledge to do it again. Yes, your emotional muscles are simply getting a work out so they can perform better for you next time and take you to greater heights. I now embrace that ‘feeling of fear’ and know that it means that I am living on the edge and about to step out of my comfort zone again and that is exciting and exhilarating, and you are invited to do the same. Think about all those scary and exhilarating rides that people go on in Theme Parks, they are scary but they are also exciting and although there is a lot of screaming, people still hop off laughing (sometimes feeling a little ill!) and they are ready to go again! Remember that the same chemicals are released into your system when you are excited as when you are scared… so I now process all fear as excitement. Life and our experiences are sometimes like those rides, feel your fear, then do it anyway and enjoy the ride! What are we scared of really… next time fear stops by, let’s go to the mirror and look at it and say, “You know what, what I think of myself is far more important than what other people think and I have one life to live and I am not getting out of here alive, so get that hell out of my way because I got some living to do!” Go for it and give fear a shove today!

BUSINESS

UNIFORM OR NOT?

…WHAT’S RIGHT FOR YOUR SALON? By Lisa Conway

Why do you feel you need a salon uniform in the first place? If it’s because your team’s appearance is sloppy, you need to think again. Professionalism is more about attitude than looks –a sloppy person can make a perfectly good uniform look lacklustre, too. Let’s have a closer look at the pros and cons of a salon uniform. What will your clients think? Your uniforms show you’re organised and help me feel like I’m in the hands of professionals. I can see at a glance who’s working here and who I can approach for help. And your team? They can wear a uniform with pride, show respect for their workplace and gain a sense of belonging. Think about the counter staff in the Myer makeup department. There’s a powerful sense of pride and grace about them. No one goes to work at the Myer counter with anything less than a polished appearance. Done right, a uniform conveys consistency, loyalty and professionalism. It becomes part of your brand. Done wrong, a uniform sends all the wrong messages to your team and to your clients. What will your team think? Wearing a uniform can stifle a person’s individual character. That can be either a good or a bad thing. I’ve always taken great pride in my appearance; I’d hate to be compelled to wear a uniform that boxed in my personality. My appearance, how I dress and groom myself, is a part of how I express myself. Getting ready to face the world is my favourite part of the day. On the other hand, I’ve worked with many people who’d prefer wearing a uniform to the daily dilemma of deciding what to wear, or worrying about their own clothes being ruined. As salon owner, you get to work out what’s the best for your business, team and clients. So, let’s assume you’ve given it plenty of thought and have decided to go ahead and introduce (or revamp) a uniform for your salon or clinic. Your challenge now is getting your entire team on board and putting in place a dress code they can embrace wholeheartedly. Ideally, they’ll love wearing their new uniform! How do you get everyone feeling enthusiastic and motivated about the idea of a salon uniform? You give them options so they sense ownership of 60

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the change, but you narrow down the choices. I recommend you offer two choices (three maximum). If you leave the options wide open, you’ll have a room full of competing ideas (that can only end in tears). Put forward two uniform style choices, explain your rationale for each and invite team feedback before you go ahead with investing in the actual garments. You might ask: Is it comfortable to wear? Easy to care for? Fashionable? On brand? On trend? Affordable? Versatile enough for everyone on our team? Interchangeable for different seasons?

For each category, give them five or six options. Make it as detailed as you like. You can even name the stores where they can purchase each item. When choosing, make sure to include options to suit all body shapes and sizes (not just those of your current team). Make it clear what’s OK to wear under the shirt. Choose two or three shoe styles that work. Take it as far as you like – you could even define hairstyles, makeup looks and lipstick shades. I once worked with a high-end salon where all the girls wore a deep red stay-on lipstick and they looked stunning.

When you’re deciding on options, think about introducing more than one uniform garment. Perhaps you’re looking at a branded shirt and expecting your team members to pull the rest of their outfit together. Think again, because this is where the success of a uniform often falls over.

Take photographs of all the allowed items and create a folio or style guide clearly showing all the options. Include tips on garment laundering and care. And include a section devoted to what you won’t tolerate: chipped nail polish, dirty shoes, unironed or faded garments.

Here’s the solution. Create not just a uniform, but a complete dress code that leaves wriggle room for a level of personal choice.

Let your team know that if they find something they’d like to wear (for example, a particular style of black pants) they’re welcome to bring the item to you first for approval for inclusion in the dress code manual.

Decide on the shirt everyone will wear (the core piece) then make a list of acceptable items your team can pair with the shirt (pants, skirts and so on). Why? Otherwise, you’ll have people turning up in bike shorts, leggings or sweat pants. Tragic but true.

Take the time to explain to your team the rationale behind your uniform policy. Start with an aspirational goal of raising the bar and being a salon of choice. Explain that you want to stand out from competitors, gain a reputation

for being beautifully polished (in both service and appearance) and build a professional “look” that aligns to your salon brand. Help them understand that a stylish uniform, worn well, reflects on their professionalism, too. When people on your team aren’t engaged in your planning, you’ll find introducing a uniform is a hard slog. As with any salon change, having a workplace with like-minded, motivated people is key to “selling” an idea and making it work long term. Make the time to get your people on board. Be prepared with visual examples and a positive perspective on change and future potential, rather than framing it as a criticism of individual sloppiness or quirky styles. With planning, clever choices and an inclusive approach, you’ll soon have your team turning up every day dressed to impress and ready to make magic happen in your salon. For more salon team wisdom, email me at lisa@zingcoach.com.au, visit my website, find my video tips on YouTube, join Cub ZING or read my latest book Your Salon Retail: the no-nonsense, no-hype guide to kick-arse retail in your salon business. www. zingcoach.com

Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 3

BUSINESS

WHY TEAMWORK IS IMPORTANT IN THE WORKPLACE

By Laura Hutton

Teamwork is an activity that many people try to avoid in the workplace, but why are we so against it? I’m here to tell you that there are a number of benefits of working in teams for both you personally and for your organisation. Not only is it a great opportunity for professional development, it is also a means of making your work easier. Read below to learn why teamwork is important in the workplace, and the benefits it can have for you.

INCREASED EFFICIENCY

When working in a team, you are working towards a common goal or set of objectives. The whole process of your work becomes more efficient, for example if there is a problem faced along the way there are more ‘hands on deck’ to help solve the issue. Similarly, having multiple team members on board allows you to get the work done faster with shared responsibilities. From a management perspective, encouraging teamwork in the workplace will allow your company or department to take on additional work, and in turn generate extra revenue without having to hire more staff.

IDEA GENERATION

One of the greatest benefits of working in a team is the inspiration and ideas that can result from team discussions. When running ideas by one and other, there is a lot more scope for creativity in comparison to working on a project alone. In an effective team environment, staff members feel confident in suggesting their ideas. When working autonomously and having a direct responsibility for ideas, people tend to present the safer option to their managers. However, when in a team brainstorming environment the notion of suggesting creative and unique ideas is welcomed. Teams also bring people together from different backgrounds and levels of experience which can help in creating optimal solutions.

A LEARNING EXPERIENCE

As mentioned above, teamwork is important in the workplace as it brings people together from different backgrounds and levels of experience. Consequently, projects which involve teamwork serve also as an 62

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opportunity for professional development and learning. This may be conscious learning during a meeting, or learning which occurs without you even realising whilst listing to others. It is quite possible that you can learn from someone else’s knowledge which allows your own skills and capabilities to grow. Individual team members serve as educational resources to other employees in a team environment. It is also important to note that as employees become more knowledgeable, their confidence increases. This can help improve their attitude as well as increase their job satisfaction which is a win-win situation for employers.

ENHANCED COMMUNICATION

Communication is key to the success of many projects – so why not engage in an activity that can help enhance your communication skills? Teamwork activities such as meeting together to discuss ideas or collaborating information to contribute to a project require both verbal and written communication skills. Working regularly in this capacity will allow you develop both your own skills as well as those who are in your team. Teamwork also facilitates an open discussion which allows each team member to be adequately informed about the project. In this respect, when everyone is on the same page this ensures that the project is completed as efficiently as possible.

“One of the greatest benefits of working in a team is the inspiration and ideas that can result from team discussions.” SHARE THE WORKLOAD

When working in a team towards a common goal, the workload is shared among all team members. In a perfect scenario, this work should be shared equally and be distributed according to the strengths of each member. Teamwork also allows for helping another team member when you have finished your workload. It is important to remember that you are all working towards the same goal – if you finish your work before others you should offer your assistance in order to

help complete the project. From a management perspective, when it comes to delegation this should be conducted with the strengths of your employees in mind. Assigning tasks to the correct people will ensure maximum efficiency and a high quality output.

SUPPORT NETWORK

It is important to remember that support and a sense of belonging in a workplace can contribute greatly to job satisfaction. A strong team environment can act as a great support mechanism for staff members. Group members will help each other, rely on each other and build trust within the group. During challenging times, support is crucial for the success of the project; when members are able to look to one and other for guidance or support, focus can remain on the overall goal. If a challenge is handled individually you are at risk of becoming overwhelmed and making irrational decisions. This article was written by Laura Hutton on behalf of the Australian Institute of Business. All opinions are that of the writer and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of AIB. The following sources have been used to prepare this article: Buzzle; Small Business; and Global Post.

Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 3

BUSINESS

ATO TARGETS

CASH-ONLY HAIR & BEAUTY BUSINESSES

Every year, the ATO focuses resources on certain sectors of the economy which are seen as hotbeds of tax non-compliance. This year, driven by push from government to bring in extra tax dollars, the ATO has firmly set its sights on the cash economy, and the hair and beauty sector has been earmarked for particularly close attention.

So, why does the ATO have a problem with the cash economy? Quite simply, in this day and age, when the use of debit and credit cards is pervasive and the use of cash as a means of payment is declining rapidly, the ATO regards cash-only businesses as having only one reason to exist from an economic perspective and that is as a way of avoiding tax. So, although it isn’t illegal to operate a cash-only business, the ATO 64

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consistently finds that amongst cashonly businesses, there are often endemic problems with the under-reporting of takings, leading to failure to pay the right amount of income tax and GST. In addition, cash-only businesses often fail to account for tax and superannuation properly on their employees’ wages.

problem is regarded as particularly acute because around 58% of such businesses are cash only and the industry has the third highest number of reports about potential tax evasion.

Amongst hair and beauty businesses, the

The ATO has a substantial arsenal of compliance

HOW DOES THE ATO KNOW WHETHER I’M REPORTING MY TAXES CORRECTLY?

weapons at its disposal which it routinely uses to monitor cash-only businesses. At its simplest, that could mean unannounced drop-in visits from tax auditors, whilst at the more sophisticated end of the spectrum, the ATO may – unknown to you – be obtaining data about your business from suppliers, which it can use to calculate (based on your purchases of hair and beauty products) what your turnover should be. By matching that figure with your actual turnover based on your income tax and GST reporting, the ATO can spot discrepancies for further investigation. One of the most commonly used methods to spot businesses which might be avoiding tax is the use of the small business benchmarks. Based on information it collects from every business in Australia, the ATO is able to build up a profile of a typical business in any industry in any geographical area, including a picture of what the takings, costs, profit margins and profitability should be for a particular business in that area. So, if your salon reports figures which fall outside the small business benchmark figures for hair salons in your area, you might find that the ATO will ask you detailed questions about why that might be. The use of the small business benchmarks has been criticised in the past; they can be a blunt instrument which fail to take into account any number of legitimate reasons why a business might be underperforming, such as family troubles or staffing issues. Nevertheless, they can also be highly successful at spotting businesses where the owners are failing to record all their sales; the ATO estimates that 10% of hair and beauty

businesses are reporting amounts significantly outside the key small business benchmark ratio for the industry. To illustrate how the ATO deals with noncompliance in the hair and beauty industry, the ATO has highlighted some examples where it has successfully identified problems using the techniques outlined above. In one, a nail salon business with a number of outlets was selected when data matching indicated anomalies. Initial investigation confirmed the owner kept incomplete records and declared income that didn’t support the owner’s lifestyle and assets. The ATO uncovered more than $2 million of undeclared income, imposed penalties for reckless behaviour of over $241,000 and in total brought in underpaid GST, income tax and penalties of more than $728,000.

WHAT CAN THE ATO DO IF MY BUSINESS GETS IT WRONG?

In the first instance, you’re likely to be audited by the ATO. That can be a lengthy, time-consuming and stressful process which will distract you from running your business and can require substantial investment in professional help from qualified accountants and lawyers. At the end of that, if you’re established to have done the wrong thing, you’ll be faced with a bill for underpaid GST and income tax. In addition, as the example above highlights, you can face stiff penalties of anywhere between 25% and 75% of the underpaid tax, which might increase by a further 20% if you’re a prior offender.

WHAT SHOULD I DO TO KEEP OUT OF TROUBLE?

In the first instance, you should be questioning why you operate on a cash-only basis in the first place. As noted at the start of this article, the ATO has a well-founded suspicion that businesses are run on a cash-only basis to deceive the taxman. If that picture rings a bell for you, you need to expect that the ATO will catch up with you and you should be taking proactive steps to get your taxes in order, including considering making voluntary disclosures of past misdeeds in order to mitigate any penalties. If, on the other hand, you have good reasons to be cash-only and are confident that everything is in order, you simply need to go through your books and records and make sure that they will stand up to scrutiny. The very fact that you are a cash-only business will put you on to the ATO’s radar but if all your takings are properly recorded, you can substantiate all your purchases and your payments to yourself and your staff are correctly documented and taxed, you should be able to deal quickly and efficiently with any questions that come your way. Finally, the best advice for any hair and beauty business is to get regular help from your accountant or tax adviser in order to ensure that you stay on the right side of the law and if you don’t currently have professional help, consider speaking to H&R Block’s business services team for assistance.

Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 3

BUSINESS

THE P’S OF BUSINESS PART 2 By Daniel Dickson

Daniel Dickson, Managing Director, DMK Australia & New Zealand talks about business practise and tackling Problems in Part 2 of the series with Beauty Biz. In this series I hope to share relevant and helpful advice that will make a difference in your business. In the last article I introduced the very important P in our business of People. I am often perplexed when meeting business owners that have a 3-4 room clinic and hate employing people?! Why have 3-4 rooms? Please do not allow past experiences with people to overshadow and deter you. Instead, learn from past experiences to improve and change your People Plan. If you can understand where it went wrong and you feel strong enough about improving the culture in your business you will be empowered to recruit the right people. It is so important to recruit people that are aligned and enthusiastic to share your vision and business journey. Rather than just filling a position for a staff member for Tuesday to Saturday, think more about someone who is excited to achieve the goals set by the business. By having a people plan, I would encourage you to identify the attributes, skills and personality traits you are seeking to join your team. Note my language; it’s not a job; it is a career and a personal development path. This People journey starts with the position description. Include the role’s main responsibilities and tasks and key performance measures to which the individual is to be accountable. Be specific when describing attributes you are seeking and the journey you want the person to embark on with you and your team. Develop and use key words to describe the role and your business, and I encourage you to spend a few dollars to make sure you include this content, rather than abbreviating the story. An example; “we are looking for a passionate skin therapist who is dedicated to education and is enthusiastic about achieving life changing client results. We often attend training outside of working hours as a team to grow and learn from industry leaders who allow us to be on the cutting edge this ever changing industry.” With a brief like this we can be clear about our recruitment criteria and would be able to select like minded candidates - eliminating people who are not enthusiastic about skin, don’t want to go to training and are likely not prepared to commit to education outside of hours. 66

Beauty Biz Year 10 Issue 3

By refining your key selection criteria, you should refine the number of candidates to those who would be most excited to join your team. Of special note, if you use the online applications where people can manage multiple applications and register their interest for many jobs in large batches, I encourage you to apply a filter to help with this. For example, in the final line or small print of the advertisement “For an interview to join our team, reply with hire me in the subject line”. Then you will know for all applications that do not have this, the candidates have not read the full details and more than likely have applied for any job. My advice is they would not the one to join your dynamic team. Once you have selected the successful candidate, you would allow them every opportunity to be an excellent team member and share a full induction to your policies and procedures, and details of their development or training plan. It is vitally important that the plan is clearly laid out so the individual has guidelines to perform competencies and rise to your expectations as a valued team member as soon as possible. It

still confounds me when I hear from owners who are amazed that the new person has left not long after joining. When I ask, what training did you do? I have often been affronted with a statement like “well they have only been here for a few weeks and I’m not going to train until we see if they are going to last”. This reluctance to pay training forward and commit to a development plan is a reflection that the owner did not really plan to succeed - and averse to helping the new recruit realise their potential. Ongoing, remember that the Primary leader (a very important P) needs to continually check in on the progress of each of their team members and expect them to do well. I cannot stress enough that people need the primary leader to lay the foundations and lead the business vision to keep People on track to realise and be recognised for their personal achievements. To retain great People be prepared to develop and recognise that they are making a difference. Daniel Dickson is the managing Director of DMK Australia and New Zealand www.dannemking.com

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