Beautybiz year 11 issue 3

The Essential Business Guide for Salons and Spas

Year 11 Issue 3

IS THE

DERMAPEN 4

UPGRADE WORTH IT?

12

LOOK INSIDE AT THE

REASONS

WHY

Reasons why you should join the Dermapen 4 Revolution

New Scar Treatment Setting

Revolutionary 16 Needle Cartridge Design

Visionary Marketing Support, Drives More Patients into Your Practice

Superior AOVN™ 4 Technology

Dual Power Operation

Built-in RFID Needle Cartridge

AOVN™ Retention Valves

Ergonomic Design

THE FUTURE OF MICRONEEDLING HAS ARRIVED! ...To discover more or upgrade...

NEW

ACM™ - AntiContamination Management

Bluetooth Enabled Connectivity

Sleek Digital Display with One Touch Integrated Procedural Settings

7 Year Warranty

VISIT...

Email: info@DermapenWorld.com Web: www.DermapenWorld.com/Dermapen4 Contact your Authorised DermapenWorld Distributor

ABIA

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2018 THE OSCARS OF THE AUSTRALIAN BEAUTY INDUSTRY

Gala Awards Night The Star, 80 Pyrmont Street. Sydney Sunday 9th September 2018

|

7.00pm to 11.00pm

Dress Code - Black Tie/Evening Wear

TIC

KET

S O N S ALE NOW !

TICKETS: SINGLE $250 TABLE OF TEN $2200 (LIMITED NUMBER OF TABLES OF 11 AND 12 ALSO AVAILABLE) TICKET INCLUDES, 3 COURSE A LA CARTE DINNER, DRINKS (BEER, WINE, SOFT DRINKS), ENTERTAINMENT, DANCING AND MORE…

Featuring

DJ Mat Stokes, Laserman & Geed Up

Official After Party at Sports Bar, The Star! 11.00pm - late

www.australianbeautyindustryawards.com.au Beauty Biz

Australian International Industries PTY LTD

Supplying the Hair & Beauty Industry since 1974

ON THE COVER

CON TENTS

10 Dermapen 4 – Not Just an Update

REGULARS 08 Editors Letter 12-15 Industry News 56 Make Up Shop 60-61 Beauty Shop

FEAUTURE 16 A Dream is Realised 18 Endota Spa Announce New College 20 One Brand, Two Cities 22 Beauty at the Towers

2017 ABIA WINNERS 24 Business Director/Owner of the Year - Karla McDiarmid 25 Salon Team of the Year - Maquarie Medispa Bathurst 26 State Salon of the Year QLD - Simply Elegant 27 Salon Manager/Co-Ordinator - Kylie Rogers 28 Best Salon Design - Cocoon Spa

DERMAL 30 Use of Microneedling By Ingrid Torjesen 32 6 New Trends in Cosmetic Technology

By Paolo Camattari 34 Putting Melanoma to Rest

By Arden Fischer 36 Copper Peptides 38 Change Your Diet, Cure Your Acne 40 Topical Depigmentation 42 Peeling Good with DMK

MEDI & AESTHETICS 44 Should you add Medi-Pedis to Your Menu

By Vicki Malo 46 What is NAD+ 48 Pro Ageing 50 Treating Vascular Lesions

EVENTS 52 Beauty Expo Australia

TANNING 54 Choosing the Correct Base Colour

By Marisa Warren

BEAUTY 58 Eyelash Extension Safety

PRODUCT PROFILE 62 What’s New From Comfortel

BLOG SPOT 64 Costing Products and Treatments in a Salon By Otto Mitter 65 This is Your Life By Julie Cross

BUSINESS 66 Data Sharing, Trust and Beauty

By Jeb Gleason-Allured 68 Should I Stay or Should I Grow

By Jay Chapman

Email: info@DermapenWorld.com Web: www.DermapenWorld.com/Dermapen4

70 Glass Ceiling Index 2018 72 Small Business Owners 74 Add Value to your Instagram

By Tahlia Shorter

Improve your

Colour Match

With the Refectocil Creative Starter Kit Kit Contains: 6 Colours - Blonde, Black, Graphite, Blue, Light Brown & Red, Creme Oxidant 100ml, Tint Remover, Eye Make Up Remover, Application Brushes Hard (Pkt 5), Eye Protection Papers Extra (Pkt 80), Skin Protection Cream 75ml, Artist Palette.

PLUS FREE: DVD, Style Book, and Convenient Zip Bag.

refectocil.com.au

Beauty Biz PUBLISHER

Linda Woodhead linda@mochapublishing.com.au

EDITOR

Editors Editors Note

April Jones april@mochapublishing.com.au

ADVERTISING MANAGER Nina Barbara nina@mochapublishing.com.au

ART DIRECTOR

Kellie Woodhead kellie@mochapublishing.com.au

ADMINISTRATION

Jess Richmond jess@mochapublishing.com.au

CONTRIBUTORS April Jones Ingrid Torjesen Paolo Camattari Arden Fischer Vicki Malo Marisa Warren Otto Mitter Julie Cross Jeb Gleason-Allured Jay Chapman Tahlia Shorter

OFFICE

PO BOX 252 Helensvale Plaza Qld 4212 P: 07 5580 5155 mail@mochapublishing.com.au www.mochapublishing.com.au

DISTRIBUTION

Australia Post - Print Post 100005498

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PUBLISHED BY mocha publishing

PUBLISHERS OF

HAIR BIZ, Beauty Biz & Barber Shop Beauty Biz is published six times a year by mocha publishing ABN 65 091 846 189 No Part of the publication may be reproduced in any manner or form without written permission. Beauty Biz does not accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies, original artwork or other material. The views expressed in Beauty Biz are not necessarily those of the publisher.

I will never be perfect.

This realisation struck me on a recent weekend as I was thumbing through a Martha Stewart cookbook. (There’s no one like Martha to make you feel inadequate, is there?

She is even perfect at that.)

I am not sure where this feeling of self-acceptance suddenly bubbled up from, or why. But it has given me a new outlook on ageing and ant- ageing treatments.

Falling into the 40 something category I am feeling more confident about embracing the ageing process and love the pro ageing article we have put together for this month. I love the insight, wisdom and experience that goes along with maturing into the 40’s and 50’s and when I look over the women, colleagues and peers that I admire in my life, most fall into this category. It’s very clear that our skincare businesses are becoming more and more driven towards accommodating these key clients and the trending towards a pro ageing process. It’s time to embrace this and cater for these clients and maybe take some of the advice we give to clients onboard for ourselves!

A big thanks to all of our contributing writers for this issue. who have produced some outstanding articles yet again. I am a HUGE skincare and ingredient girl and one of my favourites, Copper Peptide, is featured in this issue along with an indepth acne article from the formidable Dr Doug Grose who has kindly agreed to us using this piece.

Looking further into pigmentation and skin needling is very much on trend at the moment and we look at this in detail highlighting the concerns between treatment and trauma.

Business wise we are packed full this month with an insight into Instagram stories to get you started in this area, discovering the glass ceiling index for women in business and what is on trend in cosmetology currently. We feature some more of our worthy ABIA winners and their stories also as are getting pretty excited for the 2018 awards coming up in September, not to mention the finalist announcement on June 11th.

Keep an eye on our social media pages for all the news!

Enjoy the issue!

No responsibility will be accepted if the publication is delayed or prevented by factors beyong the control of the publisher.

No responsibility will be accepted for errors in copy, or for any loss arising from the failure of an advertisement or any part thereof to appear.

April

© 2018 mocha publishing All rights reserved.

April Jones Editor

A Fractionated Radiofrequency system, delivering non-surgical and painless treatments, with minimal downtime Thermal stimulation of the deep dermis leads to strong collagen remodelling Minimal downtime & discomfort No burning or bleeding No anesthesia required Immediately visible, long lasting results

DNARenewal: THE FOUNDER Dr. Ronald L. Moy, renowned scientist, researcher, dermatologist, and cosmetic surgeon, has dedicated his life’s work to understanding the impact of photo damage on skin’s health and aging.

Today, DNARenewal marks the culmination of his passion to create a clinically proven regimen that Micro-roughness Acne scars Wrinkles Enlarged pores Skin laxity effectively helps repair photodamaged aging skin.

COVER STORY

Dermapen 4 is not just an Update It’s Reinventing Micro Needling It’s Just Launched and Everyone is Raving About it - Dermapen 4 Founder Reveals How Everyone Thought it Was Impossible but He Beat the Odds Meet Stene Marshall, the man who invented the original Dermapen and the person revolutionising the micro needling industry once again with the April 2018 launch of the Dermapen 4.

In this exclusive interview, Stene explains how he created the breakthrough technology that most considered impossible, as well as discussing the importance of this new device to the industry.

Q: Stene, DermapenWorld is already recognised as the industry leader in micro needling for skin rejuvenation. Why the Dermapen 4?

A: We achieved the status of industry leader because there has always been a constant effort to lead the technology curve, rather than be a follower. That is what drove me to find the raw materials which formed the foundation of the Dermapen Family, and has since guided the company to remain the foremost authority in the microneedling field today.

I enjoy being a pioneer and we will never waver on our commitment to remain on the cutting edge.

Q: Just how difficult was it to reinvent your original Dermapen?

A: We had already learnt plenty from previous models, however creating the Dermapen 4 required an increased level of persistence and dedication, there was endless hours of research and development and protocol testing. I was determined to take things to the next level.

But that’s what you must do to create industry breakthroughs. I am sure it was no different for Steve Jobs when he invented the iPhone or Thomas Edison with the electric light. Innovations that change history, industry or mindsets, large or small, require a great deal of commitment.

“We’re the industry leader because we’ve always made a constant effort to lead the technology curve, rather than just follow.”

STENE MARSHALL DERMAPEN CREATOR & DERMAPENWORLD FOUNDER

Q: Exactly how do you see the Dermapen 4 transforming the clinical aesthetic industry?

A: First, it’s going to open up new markets. Owners of the Dermapen 4 will be able to carve out their piece of a treatment trend - growing at 9.7% per annum. Exclusive to Dermapen 4 is a dedicated SCAR TREATMENT algorithm and protocols that provides you access to this thriving new scar treatment market predicted to reach a value of $34.5 USD billion by 2025…

Q: What other advantages and features are unique to the Dermapen 4?

A: You have to see it in action to really grasp it, but more speed, power, precision, safety, technical features and less pain for the patient - there’s nothing else that even comes close. Make no mistake about it - early adopters of the Dermapen 4 will have an unfair advantage. There’s simply no comparison It doesn’t matter if you’re trying to naturally improve your patient’s skin’s elasticity, collagen, pore size, acne scars, stretch marks or any other factor… the new 16 pin Dermapen 4 needle cartridge and AOVN Direct Digital Drive motor generates 47.69% more holes than the Dermapen3, and 104% more micro channels than the average counterfeit device, creating superior results.

What’s more, the built-in patent pending AntiContamination Management system and Built in Fluid Guard mechanisms make it the safest device ever. And ergonomically its in a class of its own.

With the flexibility of Dual Power operation and a large and easy to read digital display, you can adjust your settings instantly with just one hand.

2011

2012

Q: Do you stand by the quality of the new device?

A: We are absolutely certain the Dermapen 4 is the best micro needling device you can own... and we will put our money where our mouth is by providing the only 7 year warranty in the industry. Anyone can claim quality, but it takes years of research, development and support to back it up.

Q: How will owning a Dermapen 4 assist practitioners in attracting more clients?

A: There’s an advertising saying along the lines of “the product is mightier than the pen” which basically means quality products sell themselves. And while that is certainly the case with the Dermapen 4, our treatment providers will have access to an exclusive program called the Dermapen Fractional Millon Makeover™, which offers them an overwhelming advantage in the marketplace. What’s more, with the new marketing capabilities of our web site, they will also leverage off the hundreds of thousands of web searches for Dermapen every month, to drive more patients into their practice.

Q: As the Original, how does Dermapen 4 plan to stay Industry Leader?

A: Dermapen 4 will never become obsolete. It’s bluetooth enabled with automatic updates, so as new technologies are unearthed the software will be updated for you. The integrated bluetooth connectivity allows for simple connection via Android or Smartphone (iPhone) App that connects you directly to support initiatives including the DermapenWorld Prozone and training centre, FREE Clinic Finder service and FREE registration for your 7 year warranty. What’s more, it continuously updates the Dermapen 4’s calibration tables (guaranteeing the depth of penetration every time) and firmware advancements. History will prove, the Dermapen 4 will be the GOLD standard by which all others will be judged.

2014

2018

To Explore some very special offers or to Discover “Is upgrading to the Dermapen 4 worth it?” visit: www.dermapenworld.com/dermapen4

INDUSTRY NEWS INDUSTR USPA AT BEAUTY EXPO MELBOURNE

Uspa had a very successful showing in their home town of Melbourne at Melbourne Beauty Expo on the 24th and 25th of March 2018, showcasing the range in the expos skincare sanctuary. They were also part of the new section, Proudly Natural which highlights natural products and brands in keeping with a growing consumer preference for products and treatments that are not only free of unnecessary chemicals and additives, but are ethically responsible, environmentally friendly and cruelty-free “Beauty Expo was a delightful surprise! It was the first time Uspa had showcased at this event and it was so lovely to meet so many people from across the state and country who have used Uspa before and had such fond memories working with the brand. The refreshed Uspa look was well received by all and it was especially unique for those walking by to see what Australian ingredients we had on display. It was also a great chance to see our loyal spa partners who were excited to meet the whole team. We look forward to getting in touch with all those we met and are excited to extend our knowledge and our support to those spas or clinics.” Lelien Hang, Graphic & Brand Manager, Uspa “Beauty Expo Melbourne was fantastic, we had such a positive and overwhelming response to our stand, we featured Australian ingredients that are in our products and everyone loved the display that they could touch and feel. The exciting thing about the show was not only catching up with our established stockists but meeting lots of enthusiastic people that want to try the brand as well as talking to various different TAFES, overall the show was lots of fun and great to spend time with our full Uspa team” My-kaela Najm, Product Trainer, Uspa

SUSTAINABLE SALONS ARRIVES IN NEW ZEALAND

Sustainable Salons will donate 100% of the proceeds from recycling its members’ collected materials to KiwiHarvest. For every $1 donated, 2 meals will go to someone in need.

“KiwiHarvest is delighted to have been chosen by Sustainable Salons to be their New Zealand charity partner,” says Deborah. “Both organisations share a common ethos of finding innovative solutions to reduce waste and promote sustainability. We look forward to a long and mutually-beneficial relationship.”

The event concluded with Servilles Salon Group founder Paul Serville expressing his passion for the sustainability message, one that he believes is long overdue in all industries.

Hosted by Devon Tong, Sustainable Salons NZ Business Development Manager, the event officially marked the start of operations for the New Zealand program, beginning in Auckland.

Interested salons should register their details at www.sustainablesalons.org

JAX WAX AUSTRALIA NAMES AS PACKAGING FINALIST Jax Wax are delighted to be announced a finalist in the 2018 Packaging & Processing Innovation and Design Awards (PIDA) Health, Beauty & Wellness Category (Materials/Packaging) for the Jax Wax Australia’s pre-printed recyclable packaging for beaded depilatory wax.

Awarded on behalf of the Australian Institute of Packaging (AIP), the Australian Packaging & Processing Machinery Association (APPMA) and the Packaging Council of New Zealand the winner will be announced at the gala 2018 PIDA Awards dinner, which will be held in conjunction with the international World Star Packaging Awards on the 2 May at the Marriott Hotel, Surfers Paradise, Queensland.

Tina Copland was overseas attending Cosmoprof Bologna when the announcement was made. She said that “it is a great honour to be announced as a finalist by such a leading packaging association. To have our hard work recognised outside of the beauty industry is a credit to everyone involved.

Developing this new packaging has taken us (Jax Wax) a great deal of time and research making sure that it fits in with the philosophy of our company and showcases not only the product but the beautiful Australian flora as well.” Tina received many positive comments while at Cosmoprof regarding the packaging from many businesses around the world who love the visual presence the product whether it be on a salon trolley or wholesalers shelf.

Jax Wax would also like to thank their long time graphic designer Rachael Roach, Director of Fenix Blue for the amazing work she did in developing the artwork for this new packaging. Rachael has been the Graphic Designer for Jax Wax for over 10 years and has a great understanding of the company’s philosophy and belief in Tina’s vision.

CHISHOLM INSTITUTE AND RUNWAY ROOM A WINNING COMBINATION

Sustainable Salons have celebrated the launch of its program into New Zealand with a soiree at Servilles Academy in Auckland.

More than 80 guests including salon owners, media and industry members packed into the renowned venue to discover what Sustainable Salons has in store for its first international territory.

Sustainable Salons MD and Co-Founder Paul Frasca was the first of three speakers to inspire the room. No stranger to great story-telling, Paul lead guests on the colourful Sustainable Salons journey from its beginnings as an Australia-wide research mission right up to what it is today - a 450+ strong salon member network all striving towards a zero waste industry.

Deborah Manning, KiwiHarvest CEO, was next to the stage, enlightening guests on the organisation’s efforts to change the culture of food waste and hunger across New Zealand. Mirroring the Australian relationship with OzHarvest,

Chisholm Institute and Australian hair, make-up and beauty company Runway Room have joined forces to provide the very best make-up training Australia has to offer.

The new industry partnership will provide more options in the make-up industry, providing students undertaking Chisholm’s Certificate III in Make-Up with the opportunity to become certified ‘Runway Room Make-Up Artists’. Students

RY NEWS INDUSTRY NEWS have the ability to gain industry-specific skills and experience, as well as the know-how to set up a long successful career in freelance or retail make-up services.

The opportunity will be available across Chisholm Institute’s CBD and southeastern suburban locations, with intakes commencing in mid-April 2018.

Chisholm CEO Dr Rick Ede said the partnership would provide students with a unique opportunity to become job ready in their chosen career.

“We’re really excited about the opportunities that this partnership with Runway Room will open up for Chisholm students. It’s a great Australian company that will ensure young people studying make-up can chase their calling and forge their own careers in the make-up industry.

“At Chisholm we’re all about providing the education and training that ensures our students are ready to enter the workforce and that’s exactly what this partnership will deliver,” Dr Ede said. Since opening one of Australia’s very first Complete Make-over Bars, CEO and founder Alex Fevola has established Runaway Room Salons as the ‘go to’ place for hair and make-up, especially for events and special occasions.

EAT. SHOP.CHOP WITH SUSTAINABLE SALONS

BODYOGRAPHY AUSTRALIA & SUMITA NEW OWNERSHIP Bodyography Australia & Sumita would like to announce its new ownership. Managing director Les Smith comes to Bodyography & Sumita with a wealth of business knowledge and proven successes.

Les previously owned the largest independent brake supplier, RDA Brakes, where he was Managing Director for 18 years. After growing the business from one outlet and 6 staff to 9 outlets Australia wide and 120 staff, he sold in 2014 to the world’s largest Automotive parts company. At the time of the sale, Les also purchased Targa Australia, a longstanding Motorsport events management business of 28 years, which he now runs in his 5th year of ownership.

Les is passionate about growing businesses and has great plans for Bodyography and Sumita. “Our family and I look forward to taking Bodyography and Sumita to the next level and enhancing our business relationship with all distributors and resellers”.

Bodyography Australia & Sumita would like to take this opportunity to acknowledge and thank our customers for their continued support and loyalty.

We look forward to better servicing you and making positive changes that will benefit us all. www.bodyography.com.au

ECO TAN RAISES FUNDS FOR THE RAFIKI MWEMA CHARITY

More than 300 guests from Sydney’s most vulnerable communities gathered at The Addison Project complex in Kensington on Thursday 19 April for free haircuts, food and services at Eat.Shop.Chop!

Created by Sustainable Salons, the event brought together Addison Project stakeholders – OzHarvest, Thread Together, TOGA, Randwick City Council, Orange Sky Laundry, Eastside FM and My Foundations Youth Housing – for a one-day festival designed to make basic necessities easily accessible to those in need.

80 volunteers across all organisations gave their time and skills to serve across the four-hour event, resulting in the following impact: • 300+ bags of groceries distributed at the OzHarvest Market • 270 hot meals from the OzHarvest Food Truck • 105 haircuts at the Sustainable Salons Pop-up Salon • 2,000 items of clothing supplied by Thread Together Paul Frasca Co-Founder and Managing Director of Sustainable Salons says the day was not only a positive and practical way to help guests, but to also build awareness in the wider community about how simple actions can provide great relief for those struggling to make ends meet. “Everyone deserves to feel confident and welcomed, which is what Eat. Shop. Chop is all about; we set out to provide those doing it tough with a sense of self-worth and connectedness to their community. To elevate even one person’s quality of life – even if that’s just with a haircut – is what we’re all about.”

Eat.Shop.Chop also coincided with the OzHarvest Market’s first birthday – since opening, Australia’s first free supermarket has served over 35,000 customers from all over Sydney. “The OzHarvest Market has become a real community hub, where people in need can access rescued food, enjoy a hot drink and a warm welcome from our volunteers. I’m constantly overwhelmed by the heartfelt stories of compassion and connection generated from the market and there was no better way to celebrate its first birthday than with a community festival alongside the other amazing stakeholders at The Addison Project.”

When Celeste Barber reached out to Sonya Driver, founder of Eco Tan, to ask for help to raise much needed funds for the RAFIKI MWEMA Charity, Sonya jumped into action and within days a glorious plan was in place.

Determined to raise $100,000 fast, Eco Tan’s founder Sonya Driver, has donated 2000 x Certified Organic Glory Oil for sale with 100% of the sales going directly to RAFIKI MWEMA for much needed funding to continue their incredible work with the children of Kenya.

“Imagine you are a child with no one in the world to care for you. Imagine being as young as 2 years old and being shunned and beaten for YOUR sin of being horrifically abused.” ‘Rafiki Mwema’ (translating to Loyal Friend) Kenya was born from the need to support very young girls and boys in Kenya who have suffered huge trauma.

“Money doesn’t drive me, helping others does, it’s my calling and nothing fulfils me more” – Sonya Driver “This is not only an oil that will change your life, but it will now change the lives of hundreds of children in Kenya”. – Celeste Barber, Rafiki Ambassador You can purchase Glory Oil at www.ecotan.com.au

INDUSTRY NEWS INDUSTR REVISION SKINCARE RETINOL COMPLETE WINS BEST RETINOL 2018

DERMAPEN 4 WINS THE GOOD DESIGN AWARD

A highly technologically advanced anti-aging serum that reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and boosts moisture in the skin, has been voted Best Retinol treatment at the Cosmopolitan Beauty Awards this year.

Retinol Complete time-release formula brightens the skin, evens the skin tone, while boosting the skin’s hydration level to help combat the dryness associated with Retinol.

Hero Ingredients: A substantial amount of encapsulated Retinol for timereleased delivery. Bakuchiol, from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant, is used to provide broad-spectrum antioxidant benefits and helps stabilize the retinol, thus reducing irritation in the skin. Japonicus Root Extract helps the skin boost its own levels of Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) and reduces trans-epidermal Water Loss (TEWL). Sesame Extract helps plump the skin and smooths texture. www.revisionskincare.com

IMPERIUM MATRIX BY BRERA MEDICAL TECHNOLOGIES

DermapenWorld is proud to announce that the Revolutionary Dermapen 4 won the “GOOD DESIGN AWARD” in the medical and scientific category at the 60th anniversary of GOOD DESIGN AUSTRALIA held at the iconic Sydney Opera House - attending the event was special guest Jan Utzon son of the Danish Architect of Sydney Opera House, Jørn Utzon.

Hosted by renowned Dr Brandon Gien who is an advocate for design that has the power to change and enhance people’s lives.

DermapenWorld CEO, founder and creator of Dermapen 4 Stene Marshall stated, “It’s an honour to receive such a prestigious award in a category that has seen recognition of iconic Australian brands with worldwide impact on our industry such as Cochlear, ResMed and Facett. Dermapen 4 has been a culmination of years of research and development. Awards such as this make all the hard work worthwhile. We would like to thank our development partners in Australia Cobalt Design, Planet Innovations and CBO that have helped us create this revolutionary product. We are extremely excited to be delivering Dermapen 4 to our loyal Dermapen Authorised Treatment Providers and distributors in over 50 countries.”

ESSE™ SKINCARE WINS A PRESTIGIOUS ORGANIC BEAUTY AWARD, SWEDEN Imperium Matrix is the latest non-invasive skin tightening device. This innovative Fractionated Radiofrequency system effectively results in a volumising natural filler effect, non-invasive lifting effect and a reduction in lines and wrinkles, painlessly and with minimal downtime.

This compact, skin-tightening device harnesses three forms of energy working on the epidermis, dermis and muscles for outstanding, long lasting results against micro-roughness, acne scars, medium, moderate wrinkles, enlarged pores and skin laxity.

It promotes intense endogenous tissue heating using Amplified MediumFrequency RF technology (AMF). The exclusive geometry and composition of the actuators ensures a High Quality Flow energy (HQF) in the skin. The thermal stimulation of the deep dermis leads to strong collagen remodelling and a whole range of treatment benefits including: - Non-surgical lifting effect - Skin Rejuvenation - Wrinkle reduction - Stimulates new collagen to firm and remodel the dermis - No anaethesia required - Minimal downtime and discomfort- No burning or bleeding - Immediately visible, long lasting results For further details email: cs@advancedcosmeceuticals.com.au 1800 242 011 www.advancedcosmeceuticals.com.au

Esse’s Nourish Moisturiser was announced the winner of the ‘Best Day Cream’ category for presenting a moisturiser with beneficial probiotic extracts that strengthens and moisturises even sensitive skin. It was described as ‘A true moisture bomb that causes the skin to radiate well’.

Organic Beauty Awards is Sweden’s first in sustainable and ecological beauty and is run by the non-profit organization NOC (Natural Organic Cosmetics Association). This year’s competition celebrates it’s third anniversary and attracted more than 200 product entries in the 14 categories.

RY NEWS INDUSTRY NEWS MESOESTETIC’S 2ND DEPIGMENTATION CERTIFICATION COURSE mesoestetic, a global leader in topical depigmentation, recently held their second ever Specialised Depigmentation Centre training course in Australia, as part of a global initiative.The comprehensive course which was lectured by mesoestetic International Trainer, Cristina Casaldáliga, has provided a total of 54 Specialised Depigmentation Centres nationwide, with a cutting edge advantage in this hard-to-treat skin concern.

The course provided advanced training for clinics that work with depigmentation treatments on all related products and treatments. Topics included: • What causes pigmentation and how to treat it • Detailed protocols for treatment and home care for the best results • Exclusive first look at melan recovery, the latest launch from mesoestetic • Special considerations for treatment options and after care for specific cases / indications • Introduction of new advanced protocols to include microneedling, with hands on practical demonstrations • Quality group and individual discussions and Q&A sessions with International trainer, Cristina Casaldáliga “In addition to being recognised as a Specialised Depigmentation Centre, participating clinics will also be supported in future marketing and media campaigns pertaining to pigmentation and become part of an exclusive group of advanced skincare clinics with cutting edge technology, knowledge and training giving them a competitive edge”, said Catherine Biedermann, Managing Director of Advanced Cosmeceuticals.

THE BIGGEST BEAUTY TRENDS FROM COSMOPROF WORLDWIDE BOLOGNA 2018 Each year, Cosmoprof Bologna Worldwide shines a spotlight on the biggest beauty trends in the industry and introduces new trends that will be adopted by consumers around the world.

At this year’s event, on March 15–18, 2018, Beautyst¬reams, an international trend agency, analyzed trends and products that were showcased and identified three “macro-moods,” each complete with specific trends.

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1. Health in Wealth Beautystreams explained, “The focus on the origins of the raw materials and ingredients that we use to nourish, dress or take care of our appearance push us to prefer products of natural origin, looking for harmony between our body and nature.”

• “Body-licious”—Consumers are seeking an at-home, full-body treatment that contains eco-friendly ingredients.

• “Hyaluronic Acid 2.0”— Hyaluronic acid is no longer just for face products, it is the basis of formulations for the whole body, serums and multifunction treatments.

• “Welcome Bacteria”—Products that allow the development of micro-organisms with beneficial effects for the skin and body are having great success in the market, according to Beautyst¬reams.

• “Tea Connoisseur”—Body care is paying close attention to tea and its anti-oxidant effects.

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2. Me Centric Beautystreams found, “It is the young generations who have a strong focus on the image of their person, because of the media exposure of social channels: it is necessary to look always perfect, but at the same time young people wish to create their own image representing their personality. Beauty products help to create your own image and a captivating style, with rich textures, glitter and glamor elements.”

• “Color Sorcery”—Cosmetic products that change or release color are growing in popularity among consumers.

• “All that Glitters”—Face and body products containing luminescent particles are in high demand among teenage consumers.

• “Hipscents”—Perfume brands are offering fully-customizable fragrances to appeal to millennials.

SHORT COURSES

3. Time Poor “The hectic pace of today’s society considerably reduces the time available for personal care. Body care must be fast, immediate and easily performed. Even the effects must be visible immediately: the main rule to follow is efficiency,” explained Beautyst¬reams.

• “Quick Fix”—Consumers are seeking out products that help them get ready in the least amount of time.

• “Next-Gen Applicators”—Thanks to the selfie phenomenon, consumers need to look ready at a second’s notice. Cosmetic applicators are becoming compact, easy-to-carry and provide a fast retouch.

• “Beauty Made Simple”—According to Beautyst¬reams, simplicity is the keyword: ingredients are described in simple language and with easy instructions, most often supported by short tutorials.

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FEATURE

A DREAM IS REALISED Magnolia Mediclinic is the lovechild of Samantha Baker, industry-leading Cosmetic Injector and former Clinical Trainer for Galderma Australia. A Registered Nurse with experience in Orthopaedics, Samantha commenced her career in Aesthetic Medicine in 2006 and fell in love with Cosmetic Injecting from the first day she was exposed to it. While she found the techniques and procedures came naturally to her, it was the profound impact of her results on her patients’ selfesteem that made her feel certain she had found her calling.

Driven by this newfound passion, over the course of the next five years Samantha dedicated herself to becoming the best injector she could be, training and working alongside some of the industry’s key opinion leaders. Her natural skill and unparalleled work ethic saw her gain a role as a State Clinical Trainer for a leading pharmaceutical company, and from there she spent the next three years travelling around Queensland training health practitioners on the latest injectable techniques and products.

her assembly of the best staff roster on the Gold Coast, attracting some of country’s best Injectors and recruiting a first-class health services support team to back them up.

It was during this time that Samantha came to understand the real secret behind her success.

It wasn’t so much her advanced knowledge of the facial anatomy or her skill as an Injector that produced her results, but her ability to put her patients at ease and allow them to truly open up. She witnessed time and time again talented practitioners failing at the first step in the treatment process– the consultation– whereby they would jump too quickly to diagnosis and recommendations instead of taking the time to listen to their patients’ concerns and insecurities.

Ultimately, this left patients feeling reserved and uninvolved in their treatment journey, leading to uninspiring results.

We chatted to Samantha and her brother Jonathan who is the clinic manager about magnolia

After working part-time for a few years and raising her two beautiful girls, Bella and Sienna, in 2016 Samantha started out on her dream of opening her own cosmetic clinic. Every aspect of the clinic, from its layout to its finishes, has been designed with her vision of the ideal treatment journey in mind. Most important, however, was 16

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After twelve months of planning, training and recruiting, Magnolia Mediclinic was born on May 2nd 2017. And much like Samantha’s rapid growth in the industry, it is fast becoming known as the new standard for patient experience and natural results within the Gold Coast aesthetic medicine industry.

SAMANTHA BAKER, MAGNOLIA MEDICLINIC - REGISTERED NURSE & CLINICAL MANAGER WHEN DID YOU START THE PRACTICE?

I started the Magnolia Mediclinic in May 2017.

YOU STUDIED NURSING; WHAT MADE YOU GET INTO THE COSMETIC ARENA?

My elder sister was working in the cosmetic medical industry at the time I graduated University and said I should come in for a placement and see what I thought. I fell in love with everything about aesthetics instantly and knew I had found my calling.

YOU’VE TRAINED AROUND THE WORLD INCLUDING MONACO, SINGAPORE AND HONG KONG. WHAT WAS ONE OF YOUR MOST IMPORTANT LESSONS IN THE INDUSTRY YOU BRING TO YOUR GUESTS?

Regardless of your experience or skill level, you never stop learning. International training events expose you to a huge variety of different techniques that drive you to want to continually develop your practice. There are so many expert opinion-leaders that I admire, yet all treat so differently. A brilliant injector is really an artist in my mind.

WHAT’S THE BEST PART OF YOUR JOB?

Without a doubt, having the opportunity to witness the transformation of my clients through their treatment journey. Naysayers will often look upon the industry and think it’s all about aesthetics and vanity, but it’s so much more than that. Regaining a youthful appearance or correcting an aspect of your facial anatomy that has haunted you your entire life can have a massive positive impact on your self-esteem.

Seeing new clients come out of their shell and grow in confidence at that two-week review appointment is most definitely the highlight of my day.

WHAT MADE YOU WANT TO

cosmetic medical industry, trust is key. You have to earn the trust of your clients to firstly retain them, but also to ensure they feel confident to refer others to your clinic.

Many elements will contribute to building this level of trust, however, if I had to nominate the most critical, it would be communication.

We take the time to really listen to our clients’ concerns and aesthetic goals before educating them on suitable treatment options.

We ensure our clients feel 100% informed before any treatment is carried out.

HOW DO YOU SEPARATE FROM YOUR COMPETITORS?

By taking the time to really listen to our clients’ aesthetic concerns and goals and involving them in the process of mapping out a suitable treatment plan.

WHAT ARE YOUR TIPS IN ATTRACTING NEW GUESTS TO YOUR CLINIC?

ALIGN WITH ULTRACEUTICALS FOR YOUR BUSINESS?

I have worked with Ultraceuticals at previous workplaces and I just love the consistent results my patients achieve. I love the fact there is a level of science behind each product, and the ongoing research that goes into product development (and of course the amazing team that work for them).

WHAT IS YOUR FIVE YEAR PLAN FOR YOU AND YOUR BUSINESS, MAGNOLIA MEDICLINIC?

Let’s just say if all goes to plan we hope to have more than one location.

WHAT ADVICE DO YOU GIVE OTHER PRACTITIONERS STARTING IN THE BUSINESS?

Be open to advice from others who have been there before; we can all learn from each other.

But most important, stay grateful to your clients for their ongoing support.

WHAT’S THE ONE SKINCARE LESSON YOUR MUM TAUGHT YOU THAT YOU STILL STICK BY?

My mum was a naughty sun-lover who used to apply baby oil to help develop a tan! She learnt late in life the consequences of that lifestyle. It was the years of sun damage she was trying to correct late in life that made her stress to me the importance of daily sunscreen and avoiding sunbaking.

HAS YOUR CLIENT DEMOGRAPHIC FOR INJECTABLES CHANGED OVER THE YEARS? (I.E. YOUNGER)

While my core demographic is 35-55 year old women, I am starting to see a younger patient looking to commence an age maintenance plan before the signs of ageing take hold.

WHAT ARE THE MYTHS AROUND INJECTABLES?

There are quite a few. If I have anti wrinkle injections I will look ‘frozen’. If I get my lips done I will look like a duck. If I have dermal filler injections I will look like the over-filled cast of some trashy reality TV show.

My retort to all of these myths is if you see an Injector that has experience, integrity and respect for their craft, you will never be overtreated or end up ‘frozen’. I always say, the aim of injectables is to enhance ones’ natural features, not exaggerate them.

WHAT IS ONE MANTRA THAT YOU LIVE BY DAILY? Be kind, always.

JONATHAN, MAGNOLIA MEDICLINIC – GENERAL MANAGER WHAT’S THE SECRET TO RUNNING A SUCCESSFUL CLINIC?

Cosmetic medical procedures are quite a personal procedure, so when someone is considering either treatment for the first time or making a switch to an alternative clinic, they tend to ask those they trust for recommendations rather than simply internet shopping for the best price. So in that regard, focusing on retention and incentivising referrals would be my best tip for attracting new clients.

HOW IMPORTANT IS IT TO INVEST IN EDUCATION FOR YOUR THERAPISTS?

The cosmetic medical industry is constantly evolving, with more advanced and safer techniques being developed literally daily. If you want to stay at the front of the pack, you need to offer the latest and most advanced techniques.

And the only way to do this is through ongoing staff education.

WHAT IS THE ONE BUSINESS MANTRA YOU LIVE BY TO ENSURE A HEALTHY BUSINESS?

If people like you they’ll listen to you, but if people trust you they’ll do business with you.

WHAT IS YOUR FIVE-YEAR PLAN FOR BUILDING THE BUSINESS? It’s only been 12 months so we’re still working on a blueprint, but let’s just say we believe in what we are doing and would like to offer that to more communities than just the Gold Coast. www.magnoliamediclinic.com.au

In any service industry, but especially the Beauty Biz Year 11 Issue 3

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FEATURE

ENDOTA SPA ANNOUNCE NEW COLLEGE endota spa, has announced the opening of endota Wellness College, with the aim to redefine, support and inspire the next generation of therapists. The endota Wellness College objective is to shape the future of careers in the beauty and wellness industries - one of the fastest growing industries in the world.

Melanie Gleeson, Founder and CEO of endota spa, explains the expansion, “As a brand which has paved the way for wellbeing to be considered a priority, we are extremely excited to announce the launch of our endota Wellness College.”

The college offers dynamic, new-aged courses to prepare college-leavers with transferable skills and qualifications to keep pace with fast-moving trends and advancements in the industry.

“The opening is a logical step to give students and future caregivers and nurturers, the confidence and practical skills in a field which is becoming increasingly valuable, particularly as the wellbeing, health and beauty landscapes evolve, “she explains. endota Wellness College is a Registered Training Organisation that offers nationally recognised training. It will provide an evolved collection of creative courses and nationally recognised training in beauty, makeup, massage and business. The college will have two campus locations in Canberra, Australian Capital Territory and Melbourne, Victoria.

All endota Wellness College trainers and educators are connected industry leaders who want to work with passionate students, empowering them to embrace change and experience an alternative and unconventional way to care for people in their community.

“We wanted to create a college which provides graduating students with options which will benefit their future careers, equip them with skills which have a competitive advantage and offer an element of self-care and consciousness in their expertise,” Melanie Gleeson said of the venture. endota spa has designed the courses to offer a journey of self-discovery for each student, with a flexible and immersive educational experience enabling them to pursue a career with purpose and meaning.

As healthcare and wellness industries continue to be amongst the fastest growing industries in the world, jobs in this field are increasingly sought after. The growth is attributed to an increase in consumers adopting lifestyles that promote wellbeing, therefore increasing the demand wellness services and products. endota spa currently have over 100 spas across Australia, 18

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with their network fast expanding. Completing training at an endota spa Wellness College will give students the opportunity to work at endota spa’s nationally, with the aim to fill as many job vacancies as possible, within the network, with graduating students.

Courses offered at endota Wellness College include:

artistry, producing highly-skilled members of industry. Students can find employment across a variety of specialisations and are qualified to work in the film, television, theatrical, fashion, bridal, photographic and retail industries. The course also teaches the impact makeup artistry can have on self-confidence and beauty from within.

BEAUTY THERAPY

SCHOLARSHIPS

Offering more than beauty services, students learn to promote personal wellness and provide the opportunity to escape for mindful contemplation. endota Wellness College recognises the extraordinary power of self-care in beauty expertise, understanding the balance of feeling good on the inside and looking good on the outside.

MASSAGE

endota Wellness College teaches massage treatment as an opportunity to disconnect, breathe deeply and find the space to become more mindful. Well- trained therapists are highly sought after and at endota Wellness College a direct, immersive and collaborative approach with industry produces skilled remedial massage therapists that are employed across a broad range of fields. These include private practice, aged care facilities, wellness resorts, sporting organisations, salons and spas.

BUSINESS MANAGEMENT

Students learn valuable workplace skills, which give them a competitive advantage against other candidates in the job market. The endota Wellness College Salon Management qualification prepares students to develop the skills they need to become spa managers in a flexible and creative work environment. endota spa’s strong links to industry and direct connections with local spas means students benefit from practical work experience and employment opportunities.

MAKEUP

endota Wellness College offers nationally recognised, training in professional makeup

endota’s intention as a brand is to live consciously and give back where possible. Founder and CEO of endota spa, Melanie Gleeson has announced a series of scholarships in order to reward students for their hard work.

Melanie Gleeson, Exceptional Achievement Scholarship: Aimed at students who have achieved excellence through hard work and dedication. Whether it’s academic, sporting and creative achievements or simply commitment and dedication to their work.

The scholarship entitles the successful applicant to a full scholarship, covering the full cost of first course of study. In order to apply students are required to provide a written response and video entry to showcase their exceptional achievement.

Melanie Gleeson Wellness Scholarship endota Wellness College recognises the importance of maintaining physical, mental, social and spiritual wellbeing. Each component of wellbeing is vital to maintaining good health and being able to realise true potential. The Melanie Gleeson Wellness Scholarship is aimed at those who have experienced exceptional circumstances that have significantly impacted their wellbeing. The scholarship recipient will receive a full scholarship, covering the full cost of the first course of study. The recipient will also be assigned a mentor, who will provide support and leadership during study.

Canberra endota Wellness College campus intake is now open. Melbourne endota Wellness College campus intake will begin in July. www.endotaspa.com.au @endotaspa #endotaspa #mybestme

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AUSTRALIAN MAKEUP INDUSTRY AWARDS

INDUSTRY NIGHT

y t r a P I N A S S O C I AT I O N W I T H 2 0 1 8

AU S T R A L I A N M A K E U P I N D U S T RY AWA R D S

Sunday 29th July 2018 • 7.30pm – late • Madame Hedges, Cloudland, Brisbane

TICKETS $150 EACH Includes Food and Drinks from 7.30 – 11.30pm

MIX AND MINGLE WITH THE HAIR, BEAUTY AND MAKE UP INDUSTRY Celebrate with the Finalists and Winners of the inaugural Australian Make Up Industry Awards DJ Mat Stokes • Entertainment and Dancing with Virtuosity

HEADING TO BRISBANE FOR THE BRISBANE HAIR AND BEAUTY EXPO? Come and party with the hair and beauty industry on the Sunday night!

PRE-TICKET SALES ONLY www.mochapublishing.com.au/shop

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FEATURE

ONE BRAND, TWO CITIES.

ELEMENT LIFESTYLE PERTH & MINERAL LIFESTYLE SYDNEY JOIN FORCES

Salon and beauty retreats Element Lifestyle Perth and Mineral Lifestyle Sydney have joined forces to unite under one brand - Element Lifestyle - across both city locations. Glenn Tucker (Perth) and Kristy Hines (Sydney) first came together in 2010 and have made the decision to unite brands to both strengthen their existing businesses and plan for future growth.

“We both love being part of the hair and beauty industries and this rebranding allows us to create new opportunities for our teams and partnerships. Bringing these two locations together has given us a new challenge as business owners where we can both play to our strengths” – Glenn Tucker & Kristy Hines, Element Lifestyle Glenn Tucker noticed a gap in the Perth market over 15 years ago opening the first Element location with Aveda in Perth’s CBD, later moving into the current Subiaco location. With a core focus on service, armed with solid retailing of Aveda, Glenn grows on his successes each year.

Kristy Hines’ passion for Ayurvedic lifestyle and philosophy has set her on a 16-year journey in the hair and beauty industry. Kristy’s experience includes global spa and retail education, global product launches, and working with celebrities, influencers and media. Co-owner of Mineral Lifestyle Hair, Beauty & Wellness in Sydney for 7 years, her passion for the industry means she continues to work as a hands-on therapist and hairdresser.

Part of a complementary and exciting dynamic, Glenn and Kristy understand the need to keep their businesses current – especially with the evolving millennial demographic – and look 20

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forward to solidifying and growing their unified brand in partnership with Aveda.

In keeping with Ayurvedic principles—and because of our concern for the Earth—Aveda is committed to using organic ingredients. This has led to another Ayurvedic partnership—between Aveda and the Indian firm, Nisarga.

Nisarga—which means “nature” in Sanskrit— grows Ayurvedic herbs with organic agriculture.

We have partnered with them to obtain organic turmeric and amla for use in some of our products including Invati™ Solutions for Thining Hair.

Nisarga employs an environmentally friendly extraction method using CO2, which leaves no toxic residues and works at a lower temperature— yielding highly potent extracts.

Because of the company’s concern about the dangers of chemical fertilisers and pesticides, Nisarga works to encourage farmers to convert

“AFTER BEING IN THE INDUSTRY FOR OVER 15 YEARS YOU REALISE THE POWER AND OPPORTUNITY IN COLLABORATIONS. IN THIS NEW COLLABORATION, BY BRINGING THE LOCATIONS UNDER THE ONE NAME, WE GIVE BETTER OPPORTUNITIES TO OUR TEAM AND GUESTS WHILE STRENGTHENING ARE REFRESHING OUR BRAND”

GLENN TUCKER,ENTREPRENEUR & SALON OWNER

to organic agriculture. They have held regular educational seminars for about 35,000 farmers over the years, convincing many to go organic.

Nisarga pays the organic certification costs for the farmers they partner with and also provides educational support to help make the conversion successful.

“I’M PASSIONATE ABOUT KEEPING PEOPLE IN THE HAIR AND BEAUTY INDUSTRY. WE ARE EXCITED TO BE CREATING NEW CAREER PATHS THAT SUIT MORE FLEXIBLE WORKING ARRANGEMENTS AND WILL HELP PEOPLE IN OUR INDUSTRY CREATE FINANCIALLY REWARDING CAREERS”

KRISTY HINES, BEAUTY THERAPIST, HAIRDRESSER, EDUCATOR & SALON OWNER

Aveda is committed to its ayurvedic roots - with 5,000 years of results our earliest roots lie in ayurveda, the indian healing tradition based on the knowledge of life and the interconnectedness of all things. it has proven, over 5,000 years, that treating the whole person leads to greater balance and well-being, so we consider the effects of our products not only on hair or skin, but on body, mind and emotion Bringing over 30 years of experience collectively, Glenn and Kristy are a formidable business partnership that is guaranteed to go from strength to strength in 2018 as Element Lifestyle. www.elementaveda.com.au

PR

AL

ESSION OF

SALON

& TRADE

EXCLUSIVE

A Business in a Box!

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FEATURE

BEAUTY AT THE TOWERS Beauty at the Towers was founded in 1999 predominantly opening their first beauty salon in Castle Towers, Castle Hill. As the clients needs increased and their staff proved to have great talent and positive attitude towards career development, they have established a further 3 salons at different luxurious locations.

Their teams are committed to providing client satisfaction through an extensive range of therapeutic services and excellent products options. Each salon is managed by a qualified beauty therapist with competent and ongoing educational support as to ensure only top quality service in management and therapy and in providing proper recommendations.

In their many years of industry experience, their range of services and ongoing growth and expansion has displayed their continuing dedication to outstanding performance-based service.

As an award winning Dermalogica salon we look at the continued success of the business in an era where salons have struggled to keep their spots at the top as explained by owner Sadie Taouk

HOW LONG HAS BEAUTY AT THE TOWERS BEEN IN BUSINESS?

Beauty at the towers was established in 1999 and we have had just under 20 years of delivering the highest standards in the beauty industry

WHAT WAS THE INSPIRATION/ DRIVE FOR YOU FOR STARTING THE BUSINESS?

Our inspiration and drive has always been as devoted skin care therapists, whilst having the emotional need and passion to achieve.

It is about doing the best that you can for your clients, striving hard for excellence in all endeavours that drove us to starting our business.

The courage of taking risks usually comes from having faith in something.

And, faith usually arises when one has passion towards something such as skin care. Money was never a factor or me - being a dreamer and a visionary, I knew in my heart I was always destined for something great. I paused for a moment at one stage of my life and tried to absorb how the world works and it felt like it was time 22

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to reverse the equation – I had to realise and accept that I am either an entrepreneur or work for someone – I decided to make my own dream.

TELL US ABOUT YOUR CHOICE OF PRODUCT WITH DERMALOGICA AND WHY YOU CHOSE THAT?

We loved Dermalogica from the start and how it would help to grow and increase our business, hence the obvious choice. My favourite product is Dermalogica’s Age smart Multi vitamin power recovery masque and it is our winner product.

It’s loaded with a powerhouse of essential nutrients and botanical extracts, this restorative mask drenches skin in moisture as it soothes and repairs. Vitamins A, C, E, F and provitamin B5 promote elasticity, stimulate collagen synthesis, restore suppleness and encourage cell renewal whilst beta glucan supports these natural moisture barrier and licorice, comfrey and burdock extracts calm and soothe. Skin is left smooth, soft, supple and free from irritation.

It’s real pick me up.

WHAT IS YOUR MAIN CORE BUSINESS?

Expert therapeutic facial and body care for males and females of all ages. We provide a range of non-medical face, body and relaxation treatments customised to each client’s needs, whilst recommending appropriate Dermalogica products and after-treatment-care

WHAT TRENDS/NEW TREATMENTS OR PRODUCTS CAN YOU SEE YOURSELF INTRODUCING IN THE FUTURE AT THE SALON?

In the future Beauty at the Towers would like seeing more trends and new treatments such as LED light therapy, fat freezing and products that fight pollution and are cruelty free

WHAT IS YOUR MAIN FORM OF MARKETING AND DO YOU FIND THAT SOCIAL MEDIA WORKS FOR YOU? Being a competitive business, we are exploring marketing options that are innovative.

Social media is our comprehensive way of marketing. We utilise platforms such as instagram and facebook to deliver our fantastic news, promotions and advertising www.beautyatthetowers.com.au

introducing the next generation of vitamin c new! biolumin-c serum with superior bioavailability

delivers more vitamin C into the skin with its advanced technology – which means that more Vitamin C is bioavailable to protect and defend the skin. The superior formula outperforms other leading Vitamin C products (including those formulated with higher concentration).

It also includes an AHA, which gently exfoliates dead skin to further increase product penetration.

For more information call 1800 659 118 or visit dermalogica.com.au.

ABIA ABIA ABIA ABIA ABIA ABIA > DERMAL

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

2017 ABIA BUSINESS DIRECTOR/OWNER OF THE YEAR

KARLA MCDIARMID

MAQUARIE MEDISPA BATHURST 2017 ABIA SALON TEAM OF THE YEAR

MAQUARIE MEDISPA BATHURST

2017 Best Salon Team Macquarie Medi Spa Bathurst with Maria Cocciolone-inskincosmedics 2017 ABIA Business Director/Owner of the Year Karla McDiarmid with Tony Hasham-Mayerling Skincare

Taking out 2 of the most prestigious achievements at the 2017 ABIA awards was Karla McDiarmid for Business Director/Owner of the Year and her wonderful team who scooped Salon Team of the Year. We get an insight into what makes Karla Salon Director of the Year and how her team supports her salon to continued award winning success.

“I have grown the business from three employees to now two locations, 17 employees and a profitable online store experience,” says Karla who is also the 2016 Bathurst Young Entrepreneur winner and winner of the 2017 Australian Small Business Champion Awards. Being recognised in 2016 as the Global Winner in the World Luxury Spa Awards for Best Beauty Salon and at the same awards held in Switzerland, she was named the winner of Spa Manager of the year for Oceania.

“I set a large target, two years ago, for my yearly turnover and I have completed that this year. I am currently working with the fabulous Faye Murray as a mentor and business coach and she has helped my business and I dramatically in the past three years. It has been amazing to have had someone to bounce ideas off & celebrates my 24

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success with me.”

Karla says she would love to open a third Macquarie Medi Spa in Central West NSW after the success of her Orange business opening in October 2016 and is continuing to focus on team training, attend conferences and expos.

“As an owner it is essential for me to be on top of my own game and attending industry events is how I feel I do this best. I believe it is a huge part of my business and personal success and it keeps me motivated in my career”, continues Karla.

“We bring our trainers to Bathurst & Orange from our suppliers each 2-4 weeks. Being a large account for our companies we are really looked after when it comes to training.”

Karla continues to contribute and promote the beauty industry through a variety of channels and personally manages the Macquarie Medi Spa Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest and social media pages. She also looks after The Lip Lab Orange Instagram site and says she focus on positivity, beauty and wellness skills not to mention how much she loves sharing her passion for the beauty industry.

“I am honored to be asked to teach at four local high schools in Bathurst and Orange educating young women on how to look after their skin and how to apply makeup”, she says Living in regional NSW, distance to attend seminars area can be difficult but it seems that this powerhouse continues to attend beauty industry events as much as possible, attends expos as often as she can and brings incredible

ABIA ABIA ABIA ABIA ABIA ABIA

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

trainers to the region for herself and my team to benefit from.

With Bathurst Medi Spa enjoying a 30% growth last year the business has gone from strength to strength which gave Karla the motivation required to open in Orange in October 2016. Now this second business employs six young women with some of Karla’s Bathurst employees also requesting to work at the new location on their days off. New positions have even “been created to give the team leadership roles.

Receiving holidays overseas, free trips to many conferences each year and great product rebates in 2016/17 alone is testament to the incredibly strong retail business Macquarie Medispa enjoys, hitting all supplier targets each and every year.

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

They support 60 local charities every year and are major sponsors for many events including Fashion on the Field in Orange & Bathurst, Xanadu the Musical - major sponsor 2017, Mels Go Grey in May to name just a few.

The team love what they do and are clearly passionate about helping guests gain results by working as a team. With very little staff turnover, all members of staff support each other to grow and to train to be the best skin therapists in the industry.

Macquarie Medi Spa Bathurst employs eleven women who like to complete a lot of activities out of the business such as dinners, wine tours, attend shows etc. The team have enjoyed a Winery Tour to Orange and even hired the Ice Skating Rink in Bathurst during the Winter Festival, inviting all employees and their famlies

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

onto the ice for an hour. “We even organised our own Santa to attend!”.

“We have weekly individual targets,” explains Karla, “but I have found monthly team targets work extremely well to strive as a team. Sydney Beauty Expo is our ‘weekend getaway’ and I take all of the staff to Sydney for a fun night away. Last year it was a hummer trip followed by a banquet in Chinatown with a seminar of choice at the Beauty Expo on Sunday.”

And what is Karla’s secret to success?

“I believe that the more fun you make it as an employer, the more you get out of your team!

Spending time with them personally is integral to our success and I see as an honour and a bonus!”

Beauty Biz Year 11 Issue 3

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ABIA ABIA ABIA ABIA ABIA ABIA > DERMAL

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

2017 ABIA STATE SALON/SPA OF THE YEAR 5 TREATMENT ROOMS OR MORE - QUEENSLAND

SIMPLY ELEGANT

ABIA 2017 QLD Beauty Salon/Spa of the Year 5 Treatment Rooms or more Simply Elegant with Otto MItter Ex Imports Belmacil Following on from 2016 ABIA Salon of the Year, Simply Elegant were yet again at the forefront of the winners of this year’s State Salon/Spa of the Year QLD for 5 Treatment rooms or more. With an amazing team behind her, Cherie Tippett is excited to yet again be at the winning forefront.

“Customers are our guests, treat them well and the rest will happen” This statement is what the Simply Elegant team live by. “Everyday, at Simply Elegant, we are thinking of new ways to exceed our Clients experience,” says Cherie.

Simply Elegant strives to exceed industry standards, from the aesthetically designed salon to the passion and professionalism that the Simply Elegant team have for the beauty industry. Their success philosophy encapsulates exceptional levels of customer service. They ensure all of the therapists receive regular training and development to enhance and increase their skills. All of these components ensure that they stay at the forefront of the beauty industry.

The Simply Elegant business philosophy is the provision of five star customer services, ensuring all Clients receive a professional experience from welcome to farewell.

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“A major aspect of our service is to provide homecare solutions to each client to enable them achieve results and recreate their experience at home.”

At Simply Elegant the mission statement is ‘commitment to excellence’. “Everything we do is performed to the highest level,” says Cherie, “going above and beyond to exceed our Clients expectations.”

And then there is Simply Elegant Gold Class - a step into pure luxury. You arrive in the glamorous pedicure lounge, and then choose your relaxing treatment from the specialised Gold Class treatment menu. Clients can select their preferred entertainment from apple TV and listen to their choice of music. The Gold Class treatments rooms have been aesthetically designed to offer a complete luxurious experience with a special Gold Class light food and beverage menu.

In an award winning year, Simply Elegant have also received 4 accolades from Pevonia Botanica. These awards included Customer Service Excellence, Salon Design of the Year, Marketing Excellence and Therapist of the Year - Cherie Tippett. These awards are presented to only one Beauty Salon nationally, acknowledging the aesthetically design of a salon and the

passion and professionalism that the team have for the beauty industry. Simply Elegant was singled out, exceeding industry standards and for the commitment and professionalism that we have for our industry.

Over the past 5 years, Simply Elegant has employed the services of a Business Coach and implementing their strategies have ensured management have been able to keep a close eye on the numbers at all times. Client retention is at an all time high and a large number of new clients are welcomed each month.

The Simply Elegant team is individually selected for their customer service ethic and their drive for continual improvement.

“All of our Therapists,” says Cherie, “are confident in providing and recommending a broad range of treatments and are committed to rebooking appointments and building a strong rapport with clients. Our teams dedication and commitment to excel at delivering the ultimate experience to every client, has seen our retail and upgrade sales soar and most importantly clients are excited about the results they are achieving with their skin and treatment regimes.”

Congratulations once again Simply Elegant.

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Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

2017 ABIA SALON MANAGER/ CO-ORDINATOR OF THE YEAR

KYLIE ROGERS

SKIN FITNESS

2017 ABIA Salon Manager Co-ordinator of the Year Kylie Rogers with Leah CoughlinSpectrrum Science Beauty

Kylie Rogers is a true therapist who has lived and breathed the industry for many years.

Having joined the team at Skin Fitness over 13 years ago Kylie has been instrumental in the success of the business culminating in winning the ABIA Award for Salon Manager/ Co-Ordinator of the Year. We chatted to her about her day to day running of the business and what makes herself and it so successful.

“Being organised is key, especially when you have a thriving salon as big as ours. With around 40 people to manage I start off my day with a planning session. I look at who my team will be for the day and begin by setting them up with targets/goals/tasks and creating their buddy/ partnership system. Where possible the priority with the buddy system is to have the seniors assisting the juniors.

The reception staff have tasks that they are in charge of for the day also this can be as simple as ensuring each therapist is rebooking. Our leading sales experts will be responsible for tracking our figures for the day and helping those that are falling behind.

Each team leader is in charge of their given responsibilities then will report back to me directly every 2 hours so we maintain our standards and keep on track for the daily goals and targets.

on ensuring bookings are organised and booked correctly and of course the most important daily task I oversee is our customer service, service excellence and client satisfaction.”

Throughout the day in between the above, I will also provide extensive training and planning with any of our newest team members to ensure they feel supported and clearly understand the requirements of our customers and the business.

This enables us to maintain consistency among our oldest and newest team members.

As a definite asset to the business, Kylie takes ownership of her responsibilities and treats it as if the Skin Fitness business was her very own.

Having worked with Linda Fenech for over 13 years, Kylie has seen the Salon grow from a small three room beauty salon to an award winning hair and beauty salon with a crèche.”

I meet with our supplier sales reps on a regular basis to discuss the business, our performance with the brand, new products and general planning for further training schedules for the upcoming 3 months.

“I love my job, I love watching, and being a part of the journey as our juniors grow to be senior therapists. I love seeing our loyal clients who now feel like friends keep coming back.”

With the help of selected team members conducting regular stock takes and through our computer stock levels I am responsible for placing and managing all product orders. With such a big team and extended trading hours of 8am - 9pm weekdays I also manage and oversee lunches, breaks and staff rosters. We also need to work

It’s pretty clear that Kylie is so passionate about what she does and is an absolute asset to Skin Fitness!

“I really couldn’t imagine a more rewarding, exciting and dynamic industry to be in.”

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ABIA ABIA ABIA ABIA ABIA ABIA > DERMAL

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

2017 ABIA BEST SALON DESIGN

COCOON SPA

2017 ABIA Best Salon Design Cocoon Spa with Lisa Feleppa-Comfortel

Cocoon’s first day spa, opened in 2010, was a practical space with a functional relaxation lounge which separated the treatment area. The premises had seven treatment rooms and a dedicated manicure and pedicure area, as well as a large reception and retail area. However, business growth swiftly exceeded their expectations and they began creating new rooms in previously “dead areas”. While this worked for a while, they recognised it was a temporary solution and they would need to do something else to have space that worked for the team and their clients.

As Cocoon approached its five-year anniversary the owner, Leanne Condina, and her team began discussing major renovations. They decided renovating the spa would not only solve space issues, but could spark new business as they promoted the new spa facilities.

It was at this stage that an opportunity became available to purchase land 50 metres from Cocoon, on the same street.

The idea was to custom-rebuild the spa based on the five years’ experience of Cocoon Spa, plus the 15 years prior working and managing boutique and hotel spas. The goal was to create a “hotel spa in the convenience of the suburbs”.

The new, nearby location would mean that they did not need to change too much of the identity 28

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and could cater to the same clientele. They knew this would be the best option regardless of the additional cost associated with another incentive being to own the building for future investment.

Leanne created a wish list, listing the pros and cons of the current space. They then focused on emulating the quality hotel spas they had visited nationally and overseas. without the budget of a big hotel spa, priority was given to the essentials.

Finally, they wanted a premises which would enable the area to adapt to the always-changing beauty industry.

The new spa opened in August 2016 and was designed over two levels. The ground floor is dedicated to its spa clients providing six treatment rooms – four with baths. Two rooms can accommodate couples and connect via a

steam room, which means it can also be used by groups of four. It has allocated spaces for the skin clinic, spa, group bookings and also training and events. It also offers two relaxation lounges – one upstairs which is a private retreat where clients can enjoy meditation, and one downstairs which is a comfortable space to relax and unwind.

Another big factor was reducing the noise transmitting from room to room. They wanted to create a peaceful experience for our clients, rather than just another salon. With limited space and budget, group bookings were located upstairs – all separated by storage or dispensary areas which provide an essential noise barrier.

There is a dedicated dispensary area for both levels and a laundry room. The new spa also offers 23 free car parks which many other spas lack or charge a fee for.

ABIA ABIA ABIA ABIA ABIA ABIA

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

BRANDING AND IDENTITY The name Cocoon was chosen because it encompassed everything owner Leanne Condina wanted to create at the day spa. Leanne wanted to create a sanctuary where clients would feel safe, be able to walk in and put their troubles aside and be looked after by amazing therapists.

When the team moved into the new premises, they revised its previous identity and branding.

Subtle changes were made to the logo including using colours with a luxe feel, which translated to the new spa design.

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Imagery was a big factor. When the business was first started a lot of stock images were used, which although cost effective, were very generic.

When creating the new spa identity, they engaged a local photographer to develop imagery that would fit the new branding and identity and give a unique appearance. They created some amazing looks not only from inside the spa, but also prior to opening the spa they replicated some of the looks at the principle residence and pool.

Costs were reduced as Leanne Condina’s husband is a Commercial Builder and Architectural Designer; and Leanne has a Certificate IV in Interior Decorating assisting in

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2017

the interior design details and selections.

Leanne explains ‘Our design brief was to create a hotel spa in the convenience of the suburbs.

We wanted the space to look luxe. We chose furniture that you would find in luxe hotels, ensuring it was still functional and comfortable and easy to maintain. We also wanted to create a contemporary, timeless feel” The spa has certainly has achieved this and were worthy winners of the ABIA Salon Design for 2017.

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DERMAL

USE OF MICRONEEDLING FOR REDUCING PIGMENTATION OF ACNE SCARRING ON DARK SKIN

By Ingrid Torjesen

Scarring is a common complication of acne, even when the condition is only mild, and in people with dark skin the scarring can be complicated by hyperpigmentation. While there are several treatments offered for improving acne scarring, including lasers, dermabrasion, subcision, chemical peels, and microneedling, post acne hyperpigmentation is not often addressed.

A recent small study conducted by researchers at the Jordan University of Science and Technology in Irbid, Jordan found that microneedling can improve acne scarring and the associated hyperpigmentation in patients with skin of color. Microneedling was chosen because it has produced favorable outcomes as a treatment for acne scarring in patients with darker skin.

The technique also seems to be associated with fewer complications than other procedures, and pigmentary complications are an important consideration for patients with dark skin, said researcher Firas Al Qarqaz, M.D., of the Department of Dermatology, Jordan University of Science and Technology in Irbid, Jordan.

THE STUDY

The study included 39 patients of skin of color (types 3, 4 and 5) whose acne scars and pigmentation levels were assessed using the post acne hyperpigmentation index (PAHPI) and Goodman-Baron scales (GB scale) before and after treatment by microneedling. Photographs of their scars and pigmentation were also taken.

Topical anesthetic cream (EMLA cream) was applied before the procedures and regional blocks were performed for patients who required additional pain control. Use of creams other than sunblock and moisturisers was barred during the evaluation period following Microneedling. Patients who developed new acne lesions were allowed to use benzyl peroxide gel as spot-on treatment but were not allowed to apply it to areas with old acne.

All patients were treated by the same operator using the e Dermastamp device (Dermaroller GmbH) until pinpoint bleeding and uniform erythema of treated skin was obtained. For patients with narrow ice-pick scars, stretching of skin and deep treatment within the scar floor and sides were also performed.

Two weeks later patients were evaluated for postprocedure side effects, including redness, hematomas, dryness, and at least two weeks after that both their scars and pigmentation were evaluated again and patients asked to rate their improvement using the VAS score (0 if improvement less than 25%, mild improvement, 1 if improvement between 25% and 49%, 2 30

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if improvement between 50% and 75%, or 3 if improvement was more than 75%).

THE FINDINGS

The results published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology showed a statistically significant improvement. As expected, all patients experienced transient erythema and dryness following the procedure, but these side-effects disappeared within a few days. None of the patients had paradoxical hyperpigmentation or “tram-track” appearance following microneedling.

Most patients (31) felt that they had experienced some improvement as a result of the treatment.

Dr. Qarqaz said the study showed that microneedling can improve acne scarring and the associated hyperpigmentation and seemed to be safe apart from short-lived erythema and occasional small hematoma following the procedure.

“Some patients will need further treatment for their hyperpigmentation,” he added. “Additional studies focusing on postacne scarring with hyperpigmentation are needed as well as assessment tools designed for this particular patient group.”

Future studies needed to focus on the specific types of scars (eg, deep vs shallow), type of

microneedles (stamps vs rollers) and also treatment approach (eg, initial focused treatment for deeper scars followed by full-field treatment), Dr. Qarqaz said. Their study had suggested that the e stamp device may be better than conventional/manual microneedling devices as it helped avoid the “tramtrack” appearance that can be associated with use of manual microneedling devices, especially if there is no variation in the direction of roller movements on the skin during treatment, he added.

The current acne scarring scales do not address the pigmentary changes associated with acne whether as post-inflammatory (nonscarring) or as pigmented scarring, which means an important aspect in acne complications, namely pigmented scarring, is overlooked, Dr. Qarqaz said. “There is a strong need for having a single scale that can be used to evaluate pigmentary scarring in acne patients at various stages of their disease including assessment of treatment response,” he said.

Ingrid Torjesen is a freelance journalist specialising in health and health policy. She is a regular contributor to The BMJ and the Health Service Journal. She has a degree in Biological Sciences specialising in Genetics

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DERMAL

6 NEW TRENDS IN

COSMETIC TECHNOLOGY

By Paolo Camattari, Formulation Technology Manager, Oriflame.

While attendees at in-cosmetics Global “photobombed” supplier selfie stations, immersed in textural experiences, traced next-gen solutions in sustainability and internalized holistic approaches to skin and hair health, education sessions surrounded the show floor with a deeper dive into several core areas.

One in particular gave an overarching view of six new trends in cosmetic technology; moderating the session was Paolo Camattari, formulation technology manager, of Oriflame.

1. CIRCULAR ECONOMY

The latest approach to sustaina¬bility that companies are embracing is recycling natural by-products and waste from food and agriculture to create active ingredients for cosmetics. Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Ph.D., a consultant and long-time proponent of this practice, gave Cosmetics & Toiletries an example. “I recently collaborated on a project to re-use the skin of blueberries from foods to protect against blue light,” he said.

Dell’Acqua explained that reducing an ingredient’s carbon footprint by improving waste management has become a necessary step in the product development cycle. Not only that, recycling natural byproducts or waste from the foods industry is a sustainable option for ingredient suppliers since, once optimised for cosmetics, these naturals can have multiple applications.

He gave several examples of the benefits afforded by citrus peels, which are rich in flavonoids; olive waste, which is rich in polyphenols; and tomato pulp and seed, which hold antioxidant benefits and whose fermented components can yield amino acid and prebiotics.

2. ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE FOR INGREDIENT DISCOVERY

Technology is enabling the reinvention of traditional ingredients in numerous ways; from refined processing methods to impart added benefits, to in silico modeling that takes some guess work out of the discovery process. Neil Foster, of Nuritas, spoke on the latter.

According to Foster, perhaps no technology has the potential to disrupt the 32

Beauty Biz Year 11 Issue 3

status quo more than Artificial Intelligence (AI), and while Hollywood paints a picture of self-aware robots destroying the human race, the reality could be much more constructive. Foster described an approach combining artificial intelligence with genomics to discover new targeted bioactive peptides from nature.

“The library of plant and animal-derived peptides has gone through hundreds of millions of years of Darwinian struggle to become potent repairers, healers and protectors with fast signaling,” observed Foster. As such, the goal was to unlock the full potential of plants based on a targeted, fast discovery process looking in places never before imagined. From this, a threepronged approach evolved: target, predict and unlock.

3. MICROBIOMICS FOR COSMETICS

No discussion of the latest trends in cosmetic technology would be complete without considering recent advances in microbiome research. Denis Wahler, of Givaudan Active Beauty, provided this.

With the advent of metagenome and biogenetic technologies, he explained that researchers have been able to measure the importance of the skin microbiome in hygiene and personal care. From this, cosmetic scientists have focused on its crucial link to beauty and well-being.

However, an important connection the industry must make is in educating the consumer.

Wahler described recent efforts by Givaudan to advance probiotics and prebiotics from gut microbiota research and promote skin benefits. “There are three main approaches to the microbiome.

You can rebalance it, protect it or trigger it for given benefits.”

He explained the rebalancing aspect relates to providing prebiotics and probiotics to support the microbiome’s

return to balance. Protecting it is exactly that—keeping a healthy microbiome in balance by protecting the “good” bugs and, in turn, reducing the “bad” bugs.

Finally, triggering the microbiome relates to leveraging its influence on skin for desired benefits; for example, providing a precursor for skin whitening that is inactive but upon contact with the skin microbiome, is cleaved and initiates a cascade of events for the desired end results. Givaudan has designed technologies to address all three of these key approaches.”

4. HYDROTALCITES FOR CONTROLLED DELIVERY

According to Michele Sisani of Prolabin & Tefarm S. r.l., synthetic layered double hydroxide clays (LDHs) have attracted attention due to their easily tuned chemical composition, biocompatibility and lack of toxicity. Structurally, these materials comprise positively charged layers and charge-balancing exchangeable anions located in their interlayer regions. They are currently used as carriers of drugs, amino acids and antibiotics, and show good results in terms of controlled release, drug loading and the protection of labile biomolecules.

In cosmetics, these materials serve as rheology modifiers, mattifying agents, multifun¬ctional excipients, absorbents and texturising agents. However, according to Sisani, “The most interesting applications in cosmetics arise when they are used as a carrier for active ingredients.”

5. WEARABLES FOR NONINVASIVE SKIN RESEARCH

If you ask Emer Duffy, of Dublin City University, wearables hold potential beyond health trackers and entertainment value; they have real clinical applications.

According to Duffy, there is increasing interest in the development of non-invasive tools for investigating the properties of skin, as they promise non-destructive sampling, reduced ethical concerns and comparability of results in vivo and in vitro.

She explored wearable samplers for profiling skin volatile species with gas chromatography-mass spectrometry analysis, as well as wearable impedance-based tattoo sensors for the assessment of the electrical properties of skin.

“We’re seeing ingestible wearables to monitor health, including contact lenses, sweat sensors and temporary tattoos to

track sodium and potassium in the sweat of athletes,” said Duffy. “But I think there’s a great deal of interest and opportunity in examining our skin’s volatile emissions.”

She explained they are easy to access and are appearing more often in the literature in relation to monitoring health conditions.

Her research group also designed temporary tattoo colour-change sensors that, when applied to skin, interact with the volatiles released that could be used to indicate epidermal hydration and to manage epidermal conditions. They could also be used for the efficacy testing of personal care claims, and to validate the accuracy of skin equivalents. She added, “The skin microbiome is a future area of interest.”

6. BETTER AGEING AS THE NEW ANTI-AGING

Wrapping up the discussion on new trends in cosmetic technology, Andrea Mitarotonda, of Neal’s Yard Remedies, explored how, for years, cosmetic scientists have focused on the ultimate anti-aging product. However, he countered, “What is the true meaning of ‘anti-ageing’ Is this not a contradiction in terms?” He proposed cosmetic products should support changes with ageing including emotions and stress, for a holistic approach in support of better ageing instead of anti-ageing. He also considered the role of the brain in the process of skin ageing. Camattari pressed, “This idea of well ageing is getting a lot of attention. Is anti-aging even a credible claim anymore?” Mitarotonda responded, “The anti-aging market is still very much on the rise. Life expectancies are lengthened but now we need to find new, better and different ways to age. We are moving … in a holistic direction and also considering food, stress and sleeping well.”

He added this is all in the vein of wellness, which is based on the three pillars of food, physical activity and social engagement.

Studies have shown the effects of sleep and stress on skin. Furthermore, cosmetics are being recognised as doing more than just ameliorating skin; they enhance selfesteem, decrease stress and also can influence emotions. This is where the brain-skin connection comes into play.

“Mindfulness is another area impacting our health and well-being—but this isn’t new... our Asian friends have been doing this for centuries,” he said.

The topics described during in this conference session were but a sampling of innovation scattered throughout the show floor. But their overall tone seemed to accurately reflect a larger future direction of the industry.

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PUTTING MELANOMA TO REST

By Arden Fischer

A study has demonstrated how the reactivation of cellular senescence in the skin can stop the growth of malignant melanoma, according to the journal Cancer Cells. Senescence is the process by which cells irreversibly stop dividing and enter a state of permanent growth arrest without undergoing cell death. The study was lead by Professor Clemens A. Schmitt from Charité Universitätsmedizin Berlin, Max Delbrück Center for Molecular Medicine (MDC) and the Berlin Institute of Health (BIH).

THE CANCER CELLS STUDY

Skin has a natural protective mechanism called cellular senescence, which is when cells stop dividing; this works to prevent mutated cells from turning into tumours while placing the cells in a “sleep-like” mode controlled by epigenetic tags.

However, cancer cells were able to deactivate the epigenetic tags.

The research team used almost 500 tissue samples from patients with melanoma. In approximately one-third of the samples, the research team found a vast increase in the production of the demethylase enzyme, which is what is able to erase the epigenetic tags of the protective mechanism in the skin.

The research team then used the cell cultures, mice and zebrafish with malignant melanoma to genetically modify the enzyme’s activity. One of the ways they performed this modification 34

Beauty Biz Year 11 Issue 3

was through the use of chemical agents, which caused the cells to enter into cellular senescence.

This experiment proved to be successful when human melanoma tissue was implanted into mice as well.

However, Fisher’s research showed that while the mutations help to trigger immune responses to checkpoint inhibitors, the responses are not limited to the mutations themselves and have the ability to snowball from the initial response.

SENESCENCE AND CANCER CONCLUSIONS

In mouse model experiments, Fisher found that subjects with melanomas containing a high amount of such mutations responded more positively to checkpoint inhibitor therapy than those with low levels of UV-induced mutations.

The combination of senescence and programmed cell death is one of the body’s best defence mechanisms against cancer. Schmitt’s research team discussed how cellular senescence is important for cancer therapies, but could be used for more than just blocking cancer.

Schmitt also believes that the use of demethylase blockers combined with targeted immunotherapy could also be an effective form of treatment therapy. With melanoma typically responding poorly to chemotherapy, these findings are very helpful for treating this specific form of cancer.

HOW TO ‘TRICK’ MELANOMA INTO TREATMENT

Melanoma might be able to be “tricked” into responding to immunotherapy, according to recent research. Checkpoint inhibitors are an effective treatment against melanoma, but fall short for patients missing certain UV-induced mutations in tumours. Currently, only around one-third of metastatic melanoma patients experience significant benefits from these medications, according to David E. Fisher, M.D., Ph.D.

IMPLICATIONS

In the experiments, T-cells were able to remember normal melanocyte proteins in a phenomenon called epitope spreading—or, immune responses extended beyond initial UV mutations. Seventy-five percent of the study’s mice cured of UV-mutated melanoma rejected subsequent non-UV-mutated melanoma.

Fisher used these results to experiment with further melanoma treatments including checkpoint inhibitors, topical imquimod and fractional laser treatment for potential lines of treatment for melanoma patients with low mutation numbers.

Arden Fischer is a contributor to the Dermatology Times that offer clinical insights that expand expertise and advance practice in the dermatology industry. www. dermatologytimes.com

BIODROGA_AUS

BIODROGA AUSTRALIA

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DERMAL

COPPER PEPTIDES Copper peptides have an impressive clinical pedigree going back to the 1970s. They are proven wound healers, can help hair growth and have been in skin care products for past 20 years.

Today, they are regarded as one of the most potent skin regeneration actives, and much more is understood about how they work and how we can get the most out of them as an anti-aging active for skin and hair. There are still a few urban myths persisting though, so here’s the truth about copper peptides.

WHAT ARE COPPER PEPTIDES?

Copper is something that exists naturally in our tissues. Depletion of it has for a long time been correlated with many degenerative diseases. One of the main roles of copper is being anti-inflammatory — it works by suppressing inflammatory cytokines — and there is a growing school of thought that increased inflammation brings about ageing.

COPPER PEPTIDE AND COLLAGEN PRODUCTION

Studies have shown copper peptide promotes collagen and elastin production and also acts as an antioxidant. It also promotes production of glycosaminoglycans.

Clinical studies have found that copper peptides also remove damaged collagen and elastin from the skin and scar tissue because they activate the skin’s system responsible for those functions. Copper is the key mineral in lysyl oxidase, an enzyme that weaves together collagen and elastin.

COPPER PEPTIDES BOOST LED PERFORMANCE Research has shown that copper peptides and red LED light make a powerful combination. Red light alone maintains fibroblast activity and increased collagen synthesis. When used with copper peptides, collagen 1 expression increases even more.

COPPER PEPTIDES AND HAIR GROWTH

Copper’s ability to assist in hair growth was discovered when it was noticed that the hair follicles around treated wounds were exceptionally large. It works on the follicle in two ways: increasing follicle cell proliferation and decreasing programmed follicle cell death, which results in smaller follicles. In a study on rat hair, researchers noted an 36

Beauty Biz Year 11 Issue 3

increase in follicle size and concluded that copper works on hair growth in a similar way to minoxidil.

Myth or truth — only GHK-Cu counts?

GHK-copper complex of a glycyl-L-histidylL-lysine peptide. Since it has three amino acids it is called a tripeptide. The GHK tripeptide is touted because the molecules are small and can bind to receptors more easily than larger ones. It is also the version that has been used since the 1970s in various studies. In recent years, new versions that are gentler to use while still being effective have been developed.

Myth or truth — overuse of copper peptides can be ageing?

The idea that overdoing copper peptides can make you look older is one that surfaces from time to time, including some who claim a loss of elasticity. The problem is that overuse is never defined. All published research — and it is extensive — points to copper peptides working on collagen and elastin with positive effects. It is a great wound healer and should only be used on something that needs repairing (e.g., visible lines). This is not an ingredient to use as a preventative by someone who has no signs of ageing.

Myth or truth — copper is toxic?

Inorganic copper promotes free radical formation. However, when copper is converted to organic form by binding to peptides it can be applied to the skin with little risk.

Myth or truth — copper peptides cannot be combined with vitamin C? There is a theory that copper peptides and vitamin C cannot be combined without negating the effects of the copper. There is evidence that the two substances would interact by vitamin C replacing the peptide as the chelating agent around the copper centre, but it is a very uncommon occurrence. Although it would somewhat depend on the relative concentrations of the two substances, the effect in a product would be near negligible. So while there is a shred of truth to the rumours about combining the two, it’s largely overblown.

REVEAL YOUR BEST EVER SKIN Ultraceuticals paramedical treatments use innovative, efficacious cosmeceutical ingredients and techniques to help target major skin concerns such as anti-ageing, hyperpigmentation and acne.

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DERMAL

CHANGE YOUR DIET, CURE YOUR ACNE! While most people consider acne a teenage skin condition, it has increasingly become a common concern for adults with psychological consequences that extend far beyond the teenage years.

Dr Douglas Grose, President of the Cosmetic Physicians College of Australasia (CPCA) is particularly passionate about treating acne not just via medical means but through diet and lifestyle as well.

“For just about as long as I have been a medical practitioner, which is about 48 years, the medical profession has denied the importance of diet when it comes to treating acne. In recent years, however, the evidence is mounting showing an association between the two. Research is demonstrating that acne is a disease among Western society and is noticeably absent in those that consume Palaeolithic diets that don’t consist of refined sugars, grains, milk and dairy products,” says Dr Grose.

So what is acne? Dr Grose explains. Acne is a disease of hair follicles, in which the hair follicle opening blocks up. Every hair follicle in the body has a little oil gland associated with it called the sebaceous gland and when that hair follicle blocks up, the sebaceous oil or sebum can’t get out on the skin and so the hair follicle swells. The hair follicle is a great place for bugs to grow and so bugs that are naturally in the hair follicle start to multiply which gives the infection. This results in redness and all the other factors associated with acne. So essentially, acne is a blocked hair follicle with infection.

While the cause of acne is more likely linked to genetics, there are aggravating factors such as diet, clothing, skincare products, personal habits, stress and smoking.

Unquestionably though, the key element to understand is the important role diet plays when it comes to acne - specifically carbohydrates.

Any food that typically comes from grains such as bread, pasta, cereals, biscuits and cake as well as animal-based milk products are to be avoided for acne-prone skin.

“High carbohydrates stimulate production of a hormone called insulin growth factor 1, and also cause problems with testosterone levels in the bloodstream. The combination of the two stimulates the oil glands and also tends to make the skin thicken up causing blockage and hence, acne,” says Dr Grose.

While Dr Grose says that the first stage in reducing acne is minimising carbohydrates and 38

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animal-based milk products (or having none at all), there are also additional treatment options that would assist including topical/skincare products as well as LED light phototherapy, IPL, Laser, microdermabrasions, AHA/BHA masks and chemical peel.

For topical/skincare, Dr Grose recommends the following: • Cleanse gently in the morning and use a mild exfoliating scrub at night.

• Use a non-comedogenic sunscreen to avoid aggravating the acne.

• Use mineral powder based or breathable makeup.

• Nighttime treatment may consist of Benzoyl peroxide and cosmeceutical skincare products that include a mix of salicylic acid and glycolic acid to unclog pores. Retinoids are also good for helping reduce the appearance of acne.

“These topical formulations are very good to put on the skin in the morning or at night as the aim is to unclog the pores. I say to patients, once your pores are draining, you’re never going to get acne. As long as the oils are being eliminated from the skin, you will be acne free”, says Dr Grose.

It’s important to note that there is not one singular treatment of acne and the combination of treatment is based on the severity of the condition.

In more severe cases other prescription based medical treatments may be necessary. However, according to Dr Grose, without doubt a dietary shift is key to helping reduce, if not eliminate this condition.

About the CPCA The CPCA is the leading representative body for medical practitioners practicing non- or minimally-invasive cosmetic medical treatments in Australasia. The College, which evolved from the Cosmetic Physicians Society of Australasia, provides education, training and ethical practice standards for its Fellows and Members who are required to have relevant training and experience as prerequisites for admission to the College.

Members are also required to keep abreast of the most up-to-date, relevant information and latest medical and scientific advances Overall, the key role of the CPCA is to develop and maintain the highest standards in cosmetic medicine, which helps safeguard the public. http://www.cpca.net.au/

Gay Wardle

EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT SKIN Beauty professionals working with skin anatomy must remain on a relentless journey of lifelong learning to ensure that they continually equip themselves with the knowledge and skills that are required to deliver and perform current and cutting edge treatments. Gay Wardle’s workshops and courses are designed to provide the participant with this knowledge and these skills.

Education is the key to confidence in treatment planning, delivery and success for the client!

WHO SHOULD ATTEND THESE COURSES:

Nurses | Dermal Therapists | Beauty Therapists Therapists wanting to expand their knowledge Therapists returning to the industry after leave.

These courses are designed to meet the individual needs of all participants.

Post collegial discussions and mentoring is provided to all workshop participants.

CURRENT COURSES WELLINGTON, NZ 27th – 28th August (Advanced Skin Analysis + Skin Disorders)

2 Day Course BRISBANE 8th – 9th October (Advanced Skin Analysis + Skin Disorders)

2 Day Course

To reserve your place www.gaywardle.com.au For further information contact Gay Wardle Email: gay@m-da.com.au | Phone +61 418708455

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DERMAL

CUTTING-EDGE ADVANTAGE IN

TOPICAL DEPIGMENTATION

mesoestetic, a global leader in topical depigmentation, is leading a global initiative whereby clinics who have completed the advanced training are accredited as Specialised Depigmentation Centres.

As a result, there are now 55 Specialised Depigmentation Centres Australia-wide - all of which boast a cutting-edge advantage in treating this skin concern.

Hyperpigmentation or dark spots (an accumulation of melanin) are one of the most common yet difficult to treat skin conditions. These dark patches can be caused by a number of factors such as genetic predisposition, ageing, hormonal changes etc. This skin disorder mostly affects women for various reasons, such as pregnancy, menopause, physical changes, and endocrine disorders.

However, another common cause of these dark patches on the skin is exposure to the sun’s UV radiation. This exposure leads to the formation of new dark patches on the skin and to the worsening of already existing ones. The sun is the leading cause of the dreaded brown spots.

However, dermatologists agree that excessive sun tanning is not the only cause of skin damage as generally believed; the main source of damage is daily exposure to sunlight.

Invariably pigmentation is a skin concern for many Australians. It is perceived as the third most important skin problem after wrinkles and sagging. Over 90% of Caucasian people aged over 50 have skin blemishes.

Today, depigmenting treatments represent over 20% of the total cosmetic market. mesoestetic, offers the world’s leading professional

depigmentation method that has become a standard in the field of dermatology thanks to its effectiveness and reliability. cosmelan® is an effective topical skin brightening treatment that helps to visibly lighten dark spots and blemishes caused by excess melanin in the skin. Its cutting-edge formula has been designed to achieve maximum efficacy.

The cosmelan® method acts on the cells that are responsible for skin pigmentation, cleverly slowing down melanin production in hyperpigmented areas and thereby helping to lighten unsightly blemishes and spots. It has a dual corrective and controlling action, achieving short and longterm results by keeping hyperpigmentation under control.

The cosmelan® treatment is a two-stage process: stage 1 is the professional in-clinic treatment and stage 2 is the home-care treatment regime.

The cosmelan® depigmentation 2-stage process follows six simple steps: 1 Skin is thoroughly cleansed with hydra milk cleanser, followed by hydratonic.

2 The practitioner examines the skin to diagnose the type of pigmentation issue being experienced.

3 A degreasing solution is applied to help with ingredient penetration, while a protector is smoothed on to sensitive areas, such as eyes and nostrils.

4 The mask cosmelan® 1 is applied and allowed to dry for 15 minutes.

5 Mask is left on for 8-12 hours at home, depending on the severity of pigmentation, then washed off by the client.

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A home-care treatment plan is followed to ensure best results and monthly check-ups booked to study progress.

During treatment, it is vital that skin is protected at all times using a moistusier with sun protection, which must be re-applied regularly throughout the day. This will ensure that the treatment is effective as it helps prevent hyperpigmentation.

The mesoestetic home-care treatment pack must be used post-treatment to help reduce reappearance of pigmentation and promote the best possible results.

This all-encompassing treatment features a highly effective formula that helps interrupt the main steps in the melanin synthesis pathway and the results speak for themselves After the second or third week of treatment with cosmelan®, the appearance of the skin is visibly improved. The spots are lighter and less noticeable while the skin has a more youthful appearance and radiant glow.

The cosmelan® treatment had an effectiveness rate of 95% in 99% of the cases of skin spots and hyperpigmentation. With significant research conducted into the treatments’ efficacy, cosmelan® is a proven, highly effective and accessible solution to combat this common skin condition.

E: admin@advancedcosmeceuticals.com.au Ph: 1800 242 011 Web: www.advancedcosmeceuticals.com.au

SPECIALISED DEPIGMENTATION CENTRES Pigmentation is seen as the 3rd most important skin problem after wrinkles and sagging. Today, depigmenting treatments represent over 20% of the total cosmetic market.

Global leader in topical depigmentation, mesoestetic continues an international campaign to exclusively train and certify specialised centres as pigmentation experts.

55 select Australian clinics are now exclusively trained and certified by mesoesetetic as Specialised Depigmentation Centres.

DNARenewal: THE FOUNDER Dr. Ronald L. Moy, renowned scientist, researcher, dermatologist, and cosmetic surgeon, has dedicated his life’s work to understanding the impact of photo damage on skin’s health and aging.

Before Today, DNARenewal Aftermarks the culmination of Before his passion to create aAfter clinically proven regimen that

effectively helps repair photodamaged aging skin.

To find your nearest mesoestetic Specialised Depigmentation Centre contact:

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DERMAL

PEELING GOOD WITH DMK Now is the time for people to be getting their peel on. While the weather is cool and the sunshine not as abrasive, and so their glowing skin is ready in time to create summer memories. Whether a client is looking to turn back time, remodel scarring caused by acne or injury or just to refresh the skin, peels are a great way to achieve long lasting results they are after, quickly.

What do you do when you come up against the negative stigmas of a peel though?

Often the idea of removing several layers of skin and sporting a slightly scary looking complexion for a few days post treatment is enough to shut a client’s eyes and ears to receiving a treatment.

“KNOW WHO THE RIGHT CANDIDATE FOR PEEL IS AND SUPPORTING THEM THROUGH THE ENTIRETY OF THE TREATMENT PROCESS, FROM PRE-PEEL PREP TO POST TREATMENT CARE.” Not everyone wants to commit to cosmetic surgery when signs of ageing become apparent or scars form. Many clients prefer a non-invasive alternative and they are more likely to be open to the idea of having a peel. DMK peels treatments are recommended for anyone wanting to maintain or regain an even, youthful complexion – at any age, or to reduce the appearance of scarring.

The peels can be applied to thick skin, uneven

textured skin, wrinkles, fine lines, pigmentation, sun-damage, and scarring. At DMK, the treatments are tailored to both the client’s major and finer points of concern about their skin to achieve the amazing results they desire.

“IT BEGINS IN THE FIRST CONSULTATION.” At DMK we have a pre-peel consultation to discuss with a client their individual skin concerns and the condition of their skin. From there we customise and develop treatments to try and deliver the results the client wants whilst meeting their enthusiasm and expectations around the process and home prescriptive programme.

DMK skin revision peel treatments include AHA and BHA acids, and work by pulling water up and pulling dead cell material away in the epidermis, leaving a clearer and smoother complexion. It’s essential to ensure your clients’ skin and body is well prepared and hydrated.

Our range of peels include a range of options.

A Lunchtime Peel which performs a controlled micro-removal of the epidermis – leaving the skin looking instantly radiant and luminous. It is also a great option to minimise fine lines and wrinkles, minimise open pores and brighten the skin. Rated as a medium to low level peel it takes a short 45 minutes in the clinic and the client may experience tingling, prickling, redness and wet looking skin. This is great for clients who are time poor and wants bouncy, rejuvenated skin quickly.

Next is the DMK Pro Peel, DMK’s medium level peel, clients come to the clinic for a light peel once a week over the period of six to eight or twelve weeks. It is an advanced resurfacing approach for people who don’t want an intensive peel, are taking medication or their skin needs strengthening as well as resurfacing.

If your client is after an intensive resurfacing procedure that offers deep revision of signs of ageing, thickened leathery looking skin, hyper-pigmentation, scarring and congestions, DMK offers the Pro Alpha Six-layer Peel and RP (Remodelling Procedure). Where these treatments may only take

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two in clinic treatments they do require a client to take three to seven days of downtime as the skin tightens, lifts and peels away. The client can experience hot flushes similar to sunburn, tingling, thirst, watery eyes, prickling and redness throughout both treatments. Any discomfort though is well worth the incredible results of a more youthful, healthy and glowing complexion.

Peels can be the ultimate skin transformation treatments, not only do they give the skin a new lease on life but for clients self-conscious about scarring or signs of ageing, peels can be life changing. Achieving amazing results is just part of the DMK peel experience, whether it is a client’s first or fifth peel, our therapists guide and support them, from pre-peel consultation to post-peel care. Clients will feel so welcomed and confident in the therapists skills that they will return with an armful of friends and family that they want to feel as good as they do. www.dmkskin.com.au

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MEDI & AESTHETIC

SHOULD YOU ADD MEDI-PEDIS TO YOUR MENU?

By Vicki Malo

I am often asked, “What exactly is a medi-pedi, and how does it differ from a regular pedicure or a medical pedicure?” To answer this question, we need to go back and compare pedicures and the clients receiving them in history versus today.

PEDICURE HISTORY

Fads have come and gone in the spa industry, but real change has come about by trends, cutting-edge product technology and evolution of services. Being in the pedicure industry for over 30 years, I have seen several changes, most notably in the past 10 to 15 years. Up until recently, the pedicure service was 20 years behind the rest of the beauty industry, and, in some cases, the pedicure service is still lagging.

For many years, the pedicure was simply a manicure on the feet–shape and buff the nails, light file on the bottom of the feet, massage and polish. At the time, it was seen as a luxury service for the higher-income, middle-aged client. For salons and spas to compete with one another, the advent of spa pedicures came along with 44

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the addition of scrubs, masques, scented lotions and even custom blends of essential oils. Each salon and spa had its own signature service; however, the emphasis was placed on the feelgood aspect with little regard to the health and well-being of the feet.

A CHANGING CLIENT

The demand for pretty toes became the “norm,” thus creating a need to cover up the nails with polish and lacquers, especially if they were lifted, discoloured or thick. In fact, today’s technicians use gels, acrylics and light-cured polishes on the toenail often with little regard to the health of the nail because of the client’s demand for the perfectly-polished look. This can leave the toenails traumatised, dehydrated and damaged, especially when combined with our choice of fashion shoes, specifically high heels and narrow toe boxes.

The buff and polish style of a pedicure service is becoming a thing of the past as the need and desire for result-driven services come to the forefront. Why is there this driving need for change? Customers have changed, lifestyles have changed and the feet are no longer a forgotten entity to be hidden in shoes and ignored.

The main stream of spa culture is no longer just for the rich, but rather for all walks of life. Anyone who needs human touch and quiet time is looking for spa services with a growing emphasis on pedicures.

Millennials are looking for immediate gratification and authentic services combined with value. To

the teen and college group, getting a pedicure is almost like getting a haircut. The baby boomers are looking for services with results as well as services for their elderly relatives. The client spread has increased, making customers ages 4 to 100 all wanting pedicures.

THE NEED IS GREAT (AND GETTING GREATER)

It is estimated that 85% of the U. S. population have a foot-related problem. Unresolved foot problems can have unexpected and serious consequences. Unfortun¬ately, most people believe their issues cannot be helped or are a sign of growing old.

Today we live in a fast-paced, high-stressed, super-sized lifestyle that revolves around continually multi-tasking and being in overdrive while often ignoring health-conscious decisions.

Technology has created a need for immediate responses, leaving workers with little down time to decompress. This rapid lifestyle drives us to fast food restaurants and drive-through windows where it becomes easy to supersize everything. This, in turn, creates a society of obesity and an increased risk for diabetes. Not only is our nutrition bad, but, typically, we have limited activity. The general population used to take 10,000 steps per day, but with an increase in the use of electronics and technologies that number has dropped to under 6,000 steps per day. Walking is the best exercise for our feet. It contributes to our general health by improving circulation and controlling our weight. With little daily movement, there is an increased risk of poor circulation in the lower extremities. There is little wonder why we see so many people from all walks of life with foot issues today.

HOW IMPORTANT IS CIRCULATION?

Circulation plays a major role in the function of our skin on our feet, specifically the venous system.

The venous breakdown in the lower extremities is known as chronic venous insufficiency (CVI).

Our lifestyles are the greatest contributor to developing CVI. The venus insuffic¬iencies lead to a disruption in the function of the skin, breaking down the skin at an intercellular level. With no capillaries in the epidermis, the skin is nourished by diffusion from the capillaries in the underlying dermis. If the capillaries are compromised, proper blood supply and nourishment cannot be provided to the epidermis of the skin. Impaired elimination of metabolic waste due to the CVI impairs the sweat glands, diminishing sweat production on the bottom of the feet. The tissue disturbances further cause a breakdown of the lipids that are responsible for holding the cells together. The breakdown of the lipids causes hydro-lipid film to break down, leading to transdermal water loss.

The skin loses elasticity and has less potential for regeneration. The intercellular water loss compromises the integrity of the skin leading to micro lesions, i. e. dry skin. Micro lesions are a portal of entry that can lead to skin issues such as tinea pedis. The skin eventually becomes thinner with less potential for regeneration and a high risk of infection.

THE MEDI-PEDI DIFFERENCE

A medi-pedi is a result-oriented and specialised service. It is not to be confused with a medical pedicure. The medical pedicure is performed by

a foot care nurse or a technician working under supervision of a podiatrist or medical doctor.

Pedicurists working on their own or in salon or spa environment without the supervision of a medical professional should only provide a medi-pedi or wellness pedicure. The differences between standard pedicures and medi-pedis are outlined below.

Consultation. A medi-pedi is a wellness style of pedicure where the technician performs a complete client consultation and evaluation of the foot, lower leg, nails and skin before commencing the pedicure service. This evaluation is updated with every client visit.

In addition, records are kept on all clients including consultation and notes on each visit.

Customisation. The pedicure service is based on this evaluation. For example, if the lower limb exhibits signs of CVI, the water temperature of the foot soak, length of time the feet are soaked and type of massage must change.

Sensitivity. Feet are soaked for no more than five to seven minutes and are not returned to water. Also, aggressive, acidic or abrasive products are not used on the skin of the foot including harsh scrubs. The type of massage is done based on the medical condition of the client and lower limb evaluation. For example, deep tissue or hot stone massage are not safe for seniors or clients with diabetes.

Sanitation. Only professional, fully sterilisable or single-use, disposable implements are used.

Electric files are used with European-style, pedicure-only bits. Excess cuticle is removed using an electric file or single use, disposable buffers without cutting into or pushing back cuticles.

TECHNICIAN KNOWLEDGE

To provide this service, the technician should have advanced foot care education. This education gives the technician in-depth information on how to perform a medi-pedi and includes: • The use and understanding of proper sanitation, disinfection and sterilisation; • Understanding skin physiology of the feet and lower limbs; • Recognising different skin and nail conditions on the feet; • Recognising causes of recurrent skin and foot problems; • Understanding structural deformities and recommen¬dations for proper footwear; • Diabetes education for changes on the foot and the leg; • Senior and geriatric education on implications and pedicure procedures; • Products to recommend for home maintenance; • When to refer clients to other health professionals;

• Pedicure techniques; and • Specialty services such as toenail correction and toenail reconstruction.

Medi-pedis are clinical. Therefore, the technicians must follow the three Rs of foot care, which are: 1. Recognise skin and nail disorders; 2. Recommend appropriate “pediceu¬tical” home care products; and 3. Refer to the appropriate medical professional, when appropriate.

If the technician proceeds without practicing the aforemen¬tioned guidelines, it could have catastrophic results leading to infection and/ or ulcerations. Technicians must have a thorough understanding of sanitation, disinfection, and sterilisation and use either sterilisable implements or single-use disposable items.

A CUSTOMISED SOLUTION

Pedicures are no longer the luxury service of the past, but they have become a necessity and part of today’s wellness lifestyle. However, with all of the foot conditions today, pedicures are no longer a one-size-fits-all type of service. This gives rise to the need for a customised pedicure solution—the medi-pedi. Providing this service can not only make you competitive in the market, but it can also ensure long-term clients.

Vicki Malo is the president of the North American School of Podology and vice president of education for Footlogix. She has been working in the beauty industry since 1986 as a highly trained esthetician, CIDESCO Diplomat, remedial massage therapist, certified podologist and licensed beautician.

Beauty Biz Year 11 Issue 3

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MEDI & AESTHETIC

WHAT IS NAD+?

NAD+ (Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide) is a Coenzyme of vitamin B3 found in every cell in your body that plays a vital role in regulating how quickly your cells age. As we age, our natural NAD+ levels typically decline, meaning that as we grow older our bodies in general and particularly our vital organs are fighting over an ever-dwindling supply of NAD+.

Which inevitably with age leads to cardiovascular function declining and increased risk of neurodegenerative disorders.

“SCIENTISTS BELIEVE THAT RAISING NAD LEVELS COULD SUPPORT CELLULAR METABOLISM, COGNITION, AND ABILITY TO RESPOND TO STRESS IN ORDER TO AGE BETTER.” 46

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NAD is crucial to converting food into cellular energy, keeping cognitive skills firing, and supporting normal circadian rhythm (sleeping patterns). However, as with many things, ageing and metabolic stresses such as overeating, alcohol consumption, sun radiation can affect our levels of NAD+.

Scientists believe that raising NAD levels could support cellular metabolism, cognition, and ability to respond to stress in order to age better. Some scientists now view ageing as a disease and are even pushing to have it re-categorised as such as they believe it is “curable”.

A joint UNSW/ Harvard research team made international headlines in March 2017 with a case study that found simple daily supplementation with a derivative of Vitamin B3 was able to effectively extend the life expectancy of mammals by 20% . The mice who received NAD+ in the study were marked with less insulin resistance, less inflammation, less muscle wasting. While they were 22 months old, suddenly their results and markers were at 6 months after the treatment.

NAD+ can have benefits in a range of illnesses and disorders, including; brain health, antiageing, addiction therapy and neurodegenerative diseases, with some of the world’s top scientists

suggesting that this discovery may be ‘on par with that of penicillin’.

NAD+ has been used by corporates and professionals in the business world for well over a decade (in the US and Europe) as it’s been found that the treatment can boost cognitive function, essentially giving professionals an ‘edge’ over the competition at work. However, what’s really interesting is the work done in the past 10 years with regards to addiction therapy, especially given that experts now believe that 25 per cent of Australian ice users are from professional industries — including those working in the health and medical industries. Link Ageless NAD in Bondi Junction, is Australia’s pioneer in NAD+ intravenous and booster supplement treatments, and believes that NAD is the future of living longer healthier lives. The clinics provide NAD+ I/V treatments that can help with treating; Anxiety, Depression, PTSD, Chronic Fatigue, Chronic Pain, Fibromyalgia, Lymes Disease, Alcohol Addiction, Opiate Addiction, Methamphetamine addiction, Benzodiazepine Addiction, Alzheimer’s Disease, Parkinson’s disease and Anti Aging.

For more information contact us at one of our clinics via: agelessnad.com.au

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MEDI & AESTHETIC

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PRO AGEING -

LET ME BE ME!

By Regine Frick

Between 2000 and 2050, the share of people over 60 will double, rising from 11% to 22% of the world population to reach 2 billion individuals. During the same period, the number of people over 80 will increase fourfold. Countries with low and middle-income, like Brazil and China, will see their aged population grow very fast. In Japan, according to a Global Data study, 48% of consumers will be over 55 in 2050, compared to 39% today. In China, this percentage will rise from 22% to 42%, in Brazil, from 17% to 36%, in the USA from 28% to 34%, in France from 32% to 38%, and in Germany from 36% to 44%.

Although the vocabulary has some difficulty to evolve, cosmetics is gradually leaving the era of anti-aging behind. Today, a majority of women over 60 are more in the mood for a well ageing, slow ageing or proageing approach... In short, it is all about supporting the ageing process rather than fighting the signs of ageing, with skincare products supporting a ’pro-longevity’, life enhancers.

Apart from some interventionists, a minority of consumers looking for immediate results provided by aesthetic medicine or surgery, the out-and-out youth-cultivating era is over. Most women choose this beautification attitude and look for natural alternatives.

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The first positive consequence of this acceptance can be seen in the rehabilitation of some signs of ageing such as bright wrinkles or silver / white hair. Worn by the journalist Sophie Fontanel, assumed white hair is trendy and currently making the buzz on Instagram. New muses are making the headlines like May Musk, mother of the founder of Tesla, who at 69 was walking down the runways during the New York Fashion Week and posed for Covergirl. Not to speak of models like the popular Iris Apfel with her asserted bold free and unique style, despite her 96 years of age.

Another finding, the taboos of illness and menopause are becoming more and more conspicuous. The Même Cosmetics brand,

dedicated to women affected by cancer, was recently approached by Laboratoires Pierre Fabre. In the United States, Hynt products boast a carcinoma free criterion, with no endocrine disruptors.

NO DOUBT, THE AGE REVOLUTION HAS ARRIVED

According to the 2015 Deloitte Ifop barometer, 75% of French people would be interested in a coaching proposed by their health insurance and dedicated to well-ageing. Today our perception of seniors is different. It is at the age of 68 that, with no particular reason, the feeling of being a senior takes hold of us, but the paradox is that we always see ourselves younger than we are

and this feeling increases with age.

Recently, the media coverage on Brigitte Macron, the wife of the French President, has stirred things up, and will possibly change the way we look at women this age.

Finally, if the cult of appearance is still very present in the media, we are moving towards the notion of ‘age to enhance’, what Americans call life enhancing.

A MORE ADAPTED COSMETIC OFFER

The representation of women in cosmetics is also changing. There are also more products proposed for women over 50 or even over 60.

Asserted products and described as such.

The Japanese brands were the first to offer products specifically dedicated to women aged 60+, L’Oréal also focused on the subject.

Today, Lisa Eldridge, Lancôme makeup artist successfully enhances mature skins in her Youtube makeup tutorials. The site Look Fabulous Forever, which fights against the dictates of age, will roll out its make up brand in 24 countries.

Things are changing with more adapted claims coming from brands.

THE INFLUENCE OF MILLENNIALS

There is an intergenerational influence. Juniors, which are always show-offing on the Internet are whetting the appetite of the older generations.

Beauty then becomes more integrative, it will globalize well-being, the silhouette, the lifestyle, our sleep or relaxing practices... resulting in a freer feminine look expecting new codes and expressions. Aging women no longer want to epitomize a set beauty, like Linda Rodin creator of Olio Lusso, described as the chic emblem of aging well.

Women are aware that they have wrinkles and that these won’t go away, and like Millennials, they do not want any more over-promises. “No bullshit marketing!” They are going to take action to preserve their tonicity, elegance, silhouette.

The silhouette is more important than facial features; attention is focused on nutrition, a regular activity, slenderness. Mobility and tonicity prevail.

AGEING GRACEFULLY

In this quest for mindful beauty radiance, what mature women expect from cosmetics is emotional pleasure, sensoriality but with new and smart products.

For this reason, we can anticipate a true coming back of cosmetics targeting this population. After targeting Millennials, brands will now focus on the 60+ again. First because they have a real purchasing power but also and mostly because sensoriality and lucidity are also areas to develop for them.

INGREDIENT OFFERING

Ingredient suppliers have been adjusting their strategies, because they are well aware of the real,though slow,revolution going on on the antiageing flagship sector.

In 2017, Silab imposed itself as a pioneer and shared significant scientific data on ageing

well at the in-Cosmetics London show. For the first time, and after a two-year study, Silab researchers modelled this phenomenon by setting up representative parameters on the cell, tissue, and individual levels. With Wellagyl, an active derived from the Bulgarian rose, Silab offers “the ideal ally for badly-ageing skins,” and helps women “recover a healthy, moisturised, relaxed skin”. The natural beauty of their maturity is revived.

Mibelle took interest in hormonal changes affecting the skin’s quality with Densorphin.

Their active extracted from chasteberries rich in phyto-endorphins stimulates the activity of β-endorphins and DHEA to redensify the skin.

As for Crodarom, with Phytessence Speedwell, an extract derived from the infusion of Veronica, they relied on the tranquillity and wellness carried by the plant to offer an active that acts on the skin’s homeostasis.

In November 2017, Gattefossé dedicated a two-day seminar to the ageing well theme. The company also conducted a major consumer study to discover what it means according to different age groups. They had invited Professor Frédéric Saldmann, known for his studies on the naked mole-rat, the only species to live for 30 years without showing any signs of ageing.

“There is a hyperoxidation in the naked molerat, which can raise the question of the interest of antioxidants in the fight against ageing. The genetic model of the naked mole-rat is quite close to ours,” explained the Professor. As an answer to the ageing well theme, the company developed the Gatuline Link n Lift active to redefine the eye contour, and Gatuline Renew to reveal the skin’s youth.

Novacap drew inspiration from the extreme longevity of the inhabitants of Okinawa, who regularly eat food based on ghetto leaves, in particular in mochi, to launch the Evolu’age active extracted from this plant.

Everyone is now offering their own interpretation of ageing well, by measuring its promises, in an era where the status of age and ageing gradually changes.

Regine Frick is a regular contributor to Premium Beauty News and is an established journalist and writer in the skin care sector.

Beauty Biz Year 11 Issue 3

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MEDI & AESTHETIC

TREATING VASCULAR LESIONS Treatment of vascular lesions is a very in demand treatment at present with technology coming a long way over the years. We explore the latest technology in the market called Dye-VL (Dye pulsed light technology for vascular lesions).

Dye-VL is a technology that industry leaders have proclaimed as the technology of choice when treating vascular lesions. Dye-VL technology, which is exclusive to Alma Lasers (including the Alma Rejuve IPL in Australia) offers providers a way of utilizing the technology with the safety, reliability and affordability of pulsed light. A major reason Dye-VL is able to produce results is because it also combines another technology called AFT (Advanced Fluorescence Technology) which converts unused light into the usable Spectrum resulting in a increase emission and penetration into the treatment area and allowing for lower fluence to be used to achieve the desired outcome. Because lower energy is required to achieve results, the chances of unwanted side effects are minimized. This gives providers and patients an unparalleled level of safety (the combined innovations help providers achieve superior results with minimal risk to surrounding tissue which is important for these particular treatments).

The technology uses a narrowband 500-600nm wavelength. The narrowband gives providers the precision required to target only the melanin in the lesion or blood vessel (e.g., uses a narrow band filter to limit the wavelength range for optimal absorption by the melanin, hemoglobin and oxyhemoglobin. The selective destruction (photothermolysis) of these chromophores removes the appearance of vascular lesions).

Treatment uses for Dye-VL include: • Vascular lesions • Port wine stains • Hemangioma • Rosacea • Venous malformation In addition to Dye-VL technology the Alma Rejuve provides a wide range of treatments for the face and body including hair removal, pigmentation, vascular and tightening/ contouring for body and face. Treatments are suitable for all skin types (I-VI) and are completely safe for thin and delicate areas, including the neck and décolleté, as well as hands, arms and stretch marks. Results include an improvement in the appearance of vascular and pigmented lesions, pore size reduction, and improved tone and texture for smooth, silky and shiny skin.

We would highly recommend you take a look at the Dye-VL technology if you are looking to introduce vascular treatments into your menu.

Distributed by Spectrum Science & Beauty 1300 766 198 sales@spectrumsciencebeauty.com.au www.spectrumsciencebeauty.com.au www.almabeauty.com.au 50

Beauty Biz Year 11 Issue 3

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EVENTS

BEAUTY EXPO AUSTRALIA GEARS UP FOR ANOTHER EPIC EVENT IN SYDNEY

Beauty Expo Australia, the beauty industry’s dedicated annual event, has released an exciting program full of trending education topics and leading brands for its 2018 edition in Sydney.

“Beauty Expo Australia is the ultimate national event for beauty professionals and we are thrilled to bring the industry together for two days of inspiring education and discovery. There is nothing like a live event to super-charge your passion for the industry and make real connections that boost your business for the year ahead”, said Cory Watson, Event Director for Beauty Expo Australia.

Beauty Expo is delighted that MAC Cosmetics will exhibit for the first time in 2018, bringing its renowned makeup educators and innovations in cosmetics to the event.

Other brands confirmed for Beauty Expo Australia 2018 include Ultraceuticals, Mancine Cosmetics, Murad, Pelactiv, INGLOT Cosmetics, France Medical, Lycon Cosmetics, 52

Beauty Biz Year 11 Issue 3

MODELROCK Lashes, Crown Brush, Caronlab Australia, Makeup Net, TechnoTan, and many more. Professional Beauty Solutions will return with a portfolio of industry-leading brands like Dermalux LED, Image Skincare, Youngblood Mineral Cosmetics, Pure Fiji, Sunescape Tan, Bestow Beauty, Body Sugaring Australia, Luk Beautifood and Cherry Blooms lashes.

The event has curated a line-up of world-class experts in beauty and business, who are set to teach visitors the latest skills they need to give their business a competitive edge.

This year’s education program includes trending topics like Microblading for 6-D brows with international brow educator, David ‘Brow’ Zhang; Henna brows with Jodie Burwood; 10 tips for working with a doctor with Sydney facial plastic surgeon, Dr Michael Zacharia; a holistic

approach to anti-ageing with beauty therapist and dermo-nutrition expert, Janine Tait; novel antiageing ingredient and formulation technology with Ultraceuticals founder, Dr Geoffrey Heber; and an advanced social media bootcamp with Heather Porter.

Beauty Expo Australia will also host the Face2Face Makeup Awards and Nailympia Australia competition, celebrating technical skill and creativity in makeup and nail artistry, respectively.

The trade-only event takes place from Saturday 8 to Sunday 9 September at the International Convention Centre Sydney (ICC). Those interested in attending can preregister at www.beautyexpoaustralia.com.au

TANNING

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COLOUR THEORY AND SPRAY TANS

CHOOSING THE CORRECT BASE COLOUR FOR YOUR CLIENTS

By Marisa Warren

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Is there really one spray tan solution for all clients? With the ongoing improvements and changes in spray tan solutions, along with the constant launch of new solutions on the market, it is vital to colour match the solution base colour for each clients skin tone and tanning depths.

In the same method that a full consultation is performed before every facial to correctly diagnose the clients skin type and conditions, or before an advanced treatment where the Fitzpatrick scale is referred to for the clients skin reactability, so should the same procedure be followed before a spray tan.

There are also complementary colours and these are the colours that are opposite each other on the colour wheel. Understanding the colour wheel, colour theory and also the skin undertones can help with understanding and selecting the correct base colour for each skin tone.

If an incorrect base colour is selected, it can result in an unnatural finished colour. This can result in the still common misconception about spray tans looking “orange” and “fake’. A great spray tan should look natural. Like your own skin, only better!

By incorporating the colour wheel to understand the base colours and using the Fitzpatrick scale to identify the skin type to assist with the possible tanning depth, the skin can also be classified into 2 categories, which are warm and cool colours and this is the skins undertones.

To guarantee the perfect solution colour is selected each and every time, it is recommended to refer to the Fitzpatrick scale, and the clients’ undertones, which can be seen in the hair and eye colour and the vein colours. By reviewing the vein colour, this is a quick reference point for if the client has a warm or cool undertone. This will provide the guideline for what base colour will be the most complementary to the clients skin tone.

Thinking back to initial training where warm and cool colours, the Fitzpatrick scale and the colour wheel was taught and referred to, this understanding of how colour theory works and how colours complement each other can be a crucial basic skill in spray tanning.

Not all clients tan in the same time or depth and with the skin only absorbing a certain % of DHA, using a higher % DHA may not always give the best colour to the client. When selecting a spray tan solution, it is best to refer to both the base colour and the DHA %. Each skin type will require a different base colour and DHA %. When the DHA interacts with the skin, the base colour additives work to deliver a perfect tan for each clients skin. A thorough and in-depth consultation can provide an analysis on the clients skin type, tanning requirements, recommended activation time and any contraindications or precautions that may require an amendment to the treatment. By understanding each skin type, it will provide a deeper understanding on the tanning levels each client may achieve.

The ideal, clear and quick method to identifying the skin type is through the Fitzpatrick scale - a guideline to assess the clients skin type, colour and tanning capabilities.

How to use colour theory when selecting the correct spray tan base colour?

If a client has green veins, golden or yellow in their skin tone and tans easily, they are a warm skin tone and by referring to the colour wheel, it would be recommended to select a base colour that complements those colourings.

HOW DOES COLOUR THEORY RELATE TO SPRAY TANNING? Colour Theory is the understanding of how colours complement each other and the colour variations and combinations that can be achieved when colours are mixed together. This is defined in 3 categories and is based on the colour wheel.

Primary Colours: Main colours used to mix and create other colours. These colours are - Red, Blue and Yellow.

Secondary Colours: 2 primary colours mixed together create secondary colours. These colours are: Orange (Yellow + Red), Purple (Red + Blue) and Green (Blue + Yellow).

Refer to either side of green on the colour wheel and in this diagram. Based on this, violet is opposite green (vein colour) on the colour wheel resulting in the selection of a violet-based solution.

Marisa Warren is the owner of Beyond Bronze www.beyondbronze.com.au

Tertiary Colours: This is the result of mixing all 3 primary colours in a variation of combinations and from mixing a primary colour with the adjacent secondary colour. These colours are: Yellow Orange, Yellow Green, Blue Green, Blue Violet, Red Violet and Red Orange.

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MAKE UP SHOP 1. ORGANIC BB CREAM BY LA MAV

Organic BB Crème with natural sunscreen - Australia’s first organic BB Crème – the ultimate multi-tasker and must-have product for your makeup bag.

• Perfect colour-balancing makeup base with multifunctional corrector • Anti-ageing benefits and natural protection from the sun • Great for those with hyper-sensitive skin, or conditions such as Rosacea, Eczema and Acne • Available in Light and Medium www.lamav.com

2. CANVAS EYE MOUSSE PRIMER BY BODYOGRAPHY

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Bodyography Canvas Eye Mousse Primer is a vitaminenriched, crease-proof eye base that protects and brightens the delicate eye area. It evens skin tone and redness to allow eye shadow colour to show true. It contains the powerful antiageing ingredient dermaxyl and essential vitamins A,C and E to combat free radicals in the sensitive eye area. Available in: Cameo (light/medium) and Bisque (medium/dark). www.bodyography.com.au

3. CERTIFIED ORGANIC LIQUID FOUNDATION WITH HYALURONIC ACID

BY INIKA ORGANIC

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6. COMPLETE COVERAGE CONCEALER BY ENDOTA SPA

endota spa Complete Coverage Concealer is a concealer that works to cover blemishes, dark circles and discolouration. The long-lasting, creamy formula is enriched with aloe vera and ceramides for moisture. Available in two shades: Light and Medium. www.endotaspa.com.au

7. PERFECT SEAL FIXER BY STAGELINE Perfect Seal 239.2 from Stageline Professional Makeup is a liquid fixer for eyeshadows, powders, glitters and aqua make up. The application of Perfect Seal produces very resistant, intense results. Fast and easy to use with your existing colour options as well as to create more custom looks. Moisturising and quick drying. Remove with water. Its versatility makes it a must have item in your make up kit. For all skin types.

Enquiries at info@lfbi.com.au

INIKA Organic Certified Organic Liquid Foundation with Hyaluronic Acid is a new formulation containing nourishing and hydrating qualities to supply flawless coverage and a radiant finish that lasts all day. The foundation also contains essentials oils to hydrate the skin, helps prevent flaking and glides on easily plumping the skin and blurring the line between moisturiser and foundation. Available in eight shades. www.inikaorganic.com/au

8. HYDRABLUR PRIMER BY DERMALOGICA

4. BROW COLLECTION BY GLO. MINERALS

9. EYE SHADOW PRIMER BY STAGELINE

glō.minerals Brow Collection is an eyebrow kit that contains four brow stencils, a brow brush, a spoolie brush, tweezers, a brow powder duo compact, brow wax and a brow highlighter.

The kit is housed in a black zippered makeup bag and comes with a step-by-step guide for brow shaping. Available in two shades: Brown and Taupe. www.glostore.com.au

5. FEED MY LIPS™ PURE NOURISHMINT™ LIPSTICK BY AVEDA Aveda Feed My Lips™ Pure Nourish-Mint™ Lipstick is a 95 per cent naturally derived longwearing lipstick. It is formulated with nourishing certified organic cupuacu fruit butter, botanical oils and Aveda’s signature certified organic peppermint, vanilla and ginger-aroma flavour. Choose from 23 shades in a satin finish. www.aveda.com.au

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Dermalogica Hydrablur Primer is a lightweight, nongreasy primer that blurs the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and mattifies oily skin - resulting in a silky smooth finish. Hydrablur Primer is suitable to be used before make-up application or alone for a natural radiant make-up free appearance. www.dermalogica.com.au

Stageline’s Eye Shadow Primer 297.0 is a makeup essential, forming a barrier between the skin’s natural oils and make-up products, minimising creasing and fading, ensuring the eye shadow stays where you applied it. Active ingredients specific for the ocular area provide emollient, moisturisation also reducing risk of inflammation, allergy or irritation to eyelids. For all skin types.

Enquiries at info@lfbi.com.au

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ONLINE SPRAY TANNING COURSE

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For more information info@beyondbronze.com.au | www.beyondbronze.com.au

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BEAUTY

EYELASH EXTENSION SAFETY Walk past any beauty salon or nail bar, and it’s hard to miss the advertisements for longer, fuller eyelashes that can last up to six weeks without a tube of mascara in sight.

As more and more salons begin to offer the service it’s easy to see the appeal in a treatment that can have clients looking as long-lashed as Bambi day after day. But there are concerns that a lack of training by those performing eyelash extensions could put the customer’s eyes at risk.

CHOICE are the leading consumer advocacy group in Australia. Independent and memberfunded, they ensure that Australian consumers get a fair go and this month they investigate this growing trend. Useful to know what they are looking out for on behalf of consumers and the message to those consumers is worth reading below if you are looking at including this service in your men offering.

THE LASH LOWDOWN

False eyelashes have been part of many a woman’s beauty kit for decades, but the new craze is for semi-permanent eyelash extensions.

Unlike regular false eyelashes, where you have synthetic lashes applied to your eyelid and then (easily) removed afterwards, eyelash extensions are applied individually, directly to the natural eyelash with a bonding agent, and can last (with care) for up to six weeks. This means you can leap out of bed looking like a celebrity without touching a mascara wand, but the downside could be an eye infection or worse if the person applying the lashes hasn’t had adequate training or isn’t using the right equipment.

BAD LASHES

Many of the experts CHOICE spoke to said that although eyelash extensions are widely available, there are plenty of things to consider before you hit the chair.

Andrea Day, a beauty educator with the College of Health and Biomedicine at Victoria University, says while the trend started with celebrities, the rush for longer lashes has quickly been embraced by the public and by the beauty industry, as it can be a lucrative earner for salons. The downside however is that when it comes to safety, “enthusiasm has almost completely quashed scepticism by the general public”.

The main issue is lack of experience and training in applying the extensions – which in combination with a body part as delicate as the eye, can at 58

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times end in disaster.

EYES GLUED SHUT

Veteran lash specialist Samantha Barnes says her dedicated lash extension business The Lash Lounge was one of the first to offer the service in Sydney five years ago. Now, she says, there are hundreds of beauty businesses and even nail salons offering eyelash extensions, often at

heavily discounted rates and with little experience in the practice. As a result she says she’s been inundated with customers seeking her help after having a poor experience elsewhere. “I’ve had clients come in with severe damage to their natural lash, horrible infections, experiences where they have been in pain throughout the procedure; their eyes glued shut and more,” she says.

Barnes says some of the more common problems she sees from shoddy lash jobs include red eyes and chemical burns from poor ventilation when the adhesive is applied, or eyelashes stuck together from too much glue, stunting growth of the natural lashes and causing pain and styes. She also sees plenty of clients who have had heavy and long extensions applied that eventually pull out the natural lashes, which can result in permanent lash loss.

DAMAGE DONE

Dr Tasha Micheli, Ophthalmologist and Chair of the NSW College of Ophthalmologists, says eye doctors are seeing a small but increasing parade of patients who have suffered injuries as a result of eyelash extensions.

She says the main problem is with foreign bodies getting into the eye and causing corneal ulcers, which can lead to vision loss.

“Shards from the eyelash fibres scratch the cornea and leave the fine fibres which are mink or silk; they can damage something embedded within the lid. You really won’t be able to see them yourself but it doesn’t mean they aren’t there.”

Melbourne-based optometrist Samantha Day says she doesn’t recommend eyelash extensions at all when her patients ask about them. “Even for people who have never had an eye problem before, using lash extensions may cause an eye disorder and this can occur in up to one in four people who use them. Most problems will resolve with treatment and without causing permanent vision loss, however, there may be a permanent loss of natural lashes.”

SERIOUS RISKS OF EYELASH EXTENSIONS

Keratoconjunctivitis: an infection or inflammation of the cornea and conjunctiva, a result of glue or removing agent leaking into the eye during the application and removal process.

Allergic blepharitis: inflammation of the lids, as a result of an allergic reaction to the glue, particularly to the formaldehyde in the glue, or an allergy to the eyelid fixing tape used during the procedure.

Conjunctival erosion: from the eyelid fixing tape and a risk of sub-conjunctival haemorrhage (bleeding under the conjunctiva) from compression on the eye during lash extension removal.

Traction alopecia: where the natural lashes fall out as a result of the constant weight of repeated eyelash extension treatments. In some cases the lashes may not regrow at all.

WHERE’S THE TRAINING?

An eyelash extension treatment gone wrong can put eyes in serious peril. Despite this, there are currently no training requirements in Australia, so in theory anyone can set up a business or sideline in applying lash extensions.

According to Andrea Day of Victoria University, “in order to do business, those providing the service need to adhere to local, state or territory, and federal Work Health and Safety (WHS) guidelines and legislation, however training is not a legal requirement”. The beauty industry often has to keep up with new techniques and

products, and with consultation underway, is pushing to have a nationally recognised qualification for eyelash technicians next year.

In the meantime, if the lure of long lashes still has you keen to give the treatment a try in your salon, Day recommends seeking out an eyelash technician who holds a nationally recognised make-up qualification, including the WHS skills needed to apply temporary false lashes.

Certificate II in Retail, Make-up and Skin Care, Certificate III in Beauty Services, Certificate IV or Diploma in Beauty Therapy-qualified eyelash technicians have been at the very least trained and assessed according to fixed criteria in ‘applying standard infection control precautions’ and ‘recognising and managing contraindications and adverse effects’ when applying temporary false eyelashes.

In a nutshell, the higher the level of qualification, the more a person is skilled in infection control, including hand-washing techniques, disinfecting the tweezers, and preparation of the work area.

While CHOICE has certainly highlighted all of the nasties out there, worth knowing what clients will be looking for, it is also worth mentioning that there are some incredibly highly trained specialists out there too, all equally frustrated with the fact that there can be such horror stories.

As with all things in beauty, it’s the initial and ongoing training that is an absolute must. Might be worth promoting how highly trained you are so clients can be confident in the process, treatment and after care.

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BEAUTY SHOP

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2. BETA GEL BY MEDIK8

1. OLEOGEL R AND OLEOGEL K BY DERMAVIDUALS

Medik8 beta Gel is a daily on-the-spot treatment gel that is infused with a high concentration of powerful actives: Salicylic Acid, Niacinamide and an innovative ingredient: Dioic Acid.

It helps clear existing blemishes upon application whilst preventing the appearance of new blemishes. www.medik8.com.au

dermaviduals known for bespoke skincare, is excited to introduce two new additions to the best selling Oleogel collection. The two new products, Oleogel R and Oleogel K have been designed specifically for the care of sensitive skin.

Oleogel R A gentle facial gel designed for the care of sensitive facial skin, specifically for those prone to rosacea or perioral dermatitis. Oleogel R contains vegetable oils and skin carrier protecting substances, with essential gamma linolenic acid, azelaic acid, boswellic acids and betulinic acid.

Oleogel K Formulated to treat the sensitive skin of babies and children effectively with lipids and phosphatidylcholine. Oleogel K contains acacia decurrens flower cera (green wattle) which helps to soften, repair and moisturise dry and damaged skin. www.dermaviduals.com.au

3. ELVI NATURALS

Introducing a vegan and australian owned range to the market. Specially formulated natural skincare using organic ingredients for the optimum health your skin. Australian made and owned. Vegan. Cruelty free. www.elvinaturals.com.au

4. CRANBERRY BIO EXFOLIATING SCRUB BY LA MAV 5. CELLULITE + SKIN FIRMING TREATMENT BY ASAP

asap’s cellulite + skin firming treatment contains clinically proven, breakthrough ingredients to assist in the reduction of cellulite and the appearance of stretchmarks, while improving skin elasticity, hydration and smoothness. www.asapskinproducts.com

La Mav’s Cranberry Bio Exfoliating Scrub is a deep cleansing facial scrub that will leave your skin purified and invigorated.

Formulated with Bamboo, Organic Cranberry Seeds and Natural Fruit Acids, this gentle scrub removes surface dirt and impurities, balances oil secretion and stimulated cell turnover www.lamav.com

6. CRYSTAL RETINAL BY MEDIK8

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Experience the next-generation of antiageing with Crystal Retinal. Formulated with retinaldehyde, a super-charged derivative of vitamin A, Crystal Retinal works in synergy with the skin’s natural mechanisms to enhance collagen production and speed up cellular turnover. Clinically proven to be faster than retinol, this ground-breaking night serum-cream helps firm, plump and resurface skin, visibly minimising fine lines and wrinkles to deliver a youthful-looking, more even- toned complexion. medik8.com.au

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7. AUSTRALIAN ORGANIC HEMP RANGE

BY SATIVA™ SKINCARE

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SATIVA™ is an Australian organic hemp skincare range combining hemp seed oil with nutrient-rich botanicals from the Australian outback and the Amazon has launched, committed to replenishing skin naturally. The range, comprising of ten products for skin and hair, is certified organic, vegan, crueltyfree and carbon-neutral making it one of the most ethical beauty brands on the market. www.sativaskincare.com

8. BIOLUMIN-C SERUM BY DERMALOGICA

Dermalogica’s new BioLumin-C Serum combines an ultra-stable Vitamin C complex with advanced bio-technology to go beyond the skin’s surface – delivering the natural power of Vitamin C where it’s needed most.

BioLumin-C Serum does more than simply brighten, firm and reduce the appearance of fine lines; it optimises the skin’s own defenses, giving clients brighter skin from within . BioLumin-C Serum works on the skin’s surface and below it, delivering advanced ingredients that enhance the skin’s natural defenses to brighten, firm and defend. www.dermalogica.com

10. GOLD PROBIOTIC SLEEP MASK BY ASPECT™ Aspect™ Gold Probiotic Sleep Mask is a luxurious hydrating mask that infuses the skin with pro-biotic rich ingredients to immediately comfort and soothe skin in need of moisture and nutrition. Ideal for impure, dry & dehydrated skin, Probiotic Sleep Mask deeply nourishes the skin, is antioxidant rich and helps keep stressed skin calm and balanced. www.aspectskin.com.au

9. BODYSHOCK REDUCE & GO BY MESOESTETIC

The new home treatment to help combat localised cellulite, especially around the waist, abdomen, thighs and hips. bodyshock reduce & go comes in a spray format with an innovative, non-greasy and easily absorbed formula, making it quick and easy to apply, ideal for today’s active men and women. This new treatment is formulated with L-carnitine, caffeine, niacinamide and a slimming and anti-cellulite concentrate that is rich in silybum, a polyphenol derived from the milk thistle plant. This ingredient gives it a slimming and lipolytic action that helps reduce localised fat and drain fluids by reactivating cutaneous micro-circulation. www.advancedcosmeceuticals.com.au

11. SMOOTHING FACE SERUM BY RESIBO

As a natural alternative to botulinum, this powerful golden elixir stimulates betaendorphins to relieve facial muscle tension while simultaneously delivering potent antioxidants and youth proteins to plump, fill and smooth out uneven skin texture.

Hydrating and brightening, the serum also serves as an exceptional healing oil by reducing discolouration and inhibiting sebum oxidation www.resibo.com.au

12. MELISSA ALLEN MOOD ESSENTIALS

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Unisex fragrances set to invigorate your senses. Infused with 100% natural essential oils, Melissa Allen Mood Essentials™ are formulated to positively improve emotional state and influence behaviours through the exploration of fragrance. Designed to uncover moods influenced by scent, from stress relief with ‘I Have Calm’, through to boosting confidence with ‘I Have Joy’, Melissa Allen Mood Essentials™ have a profound physiological and psychological effect on those inhaling the fragrances. Melissa Allen Mood Essentials™ www.mamessentials.com

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PRODUCT PROFILE

WHAT’S NEW FROM COMFORTEL

EXPERIENCE COMFORTEL DIAMOND MICRODERMABRASION FACIAL SYSTEM Diamond microdermabrasion is one of the easiest and most effective ways to fight the effects of aging. For instantly smoother skin, the Comfortel Diamond microdermabrasion facial system uses a combination of vacuum suction and diamond encrusted tips to lightly abrade the skin’s surface, producing a deeply exfoliating and polishing skin treatment.

With easy to use settings, the system is highly adjustable, featuring eight levels of vacuum suction and 10 different diamond tips to enable you to customise each treatment according to your client’s skin type, condition and concerns.

Diamond Microdermabrasion is a suitable treatment for everyone. It can be offered as a stand-alone treatment or can be incorporated into any facial. It deeply exfoliates and polishes the skins surface, allowing it to build collagen and help regenerate a youthful appearance all in one 20-30 minute session.

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Comfortel Diamond Microdermabrasion deeply exfoliates for instantly, soft, smoother and younger looking skin Perfect to:remove & exfoliate dull, dead skin cells remove impurities reduce fine lines treat acne scars reduce unwanted pigmentation treat wrinkles

ADELE RETAIL SHELVES These retail shelves are just what your salon needs for a natural look, that’s a little off centred. A retail shelvingDIAMOND unit in ash timber look and glossy white support, brings lightness and MICRODERMABRASION II Facial Machine elegance to this functional design. And don’t you love the way the shelves peek over the frame? Us too. Perfect for taller retail items or some decorative greenery.

All available from Comfortel Showrooms Australia Wide www.comfortel.com.au

AQUA GLO HYRDADERMABRASION Facial System

OXY OASIS Oxygen Facial System

A DVA N C E D F O R M U L A

A F T E R C A R E

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L I F T

ELLEEPLEX ADVANCED GEL FORMULA IS THE PERFECT DAILY TREATMENT TO MAINTAIN OPTIMUM LASH LIFT RESULTS AND LASH HEALTH, HELPING TO ELIMINATE FRIZZY HAIR WHILST PROVIDING SOFTNESS AND SHINE TO EYELASHES AND BROWS.

Make Lash magic happen!

Enriched with proteins, amino acids and vitamin complex ingredients, Elleeplex is specially formulated to help restore proteins, speed up cell generation, increase potassium channels in the cells and increase moisture levels to the hair. Includes sunflower oil extract and anti-oxidants which help protect the hair and give longer lasting results with lash or brow tinting.

Contact your nearest Elleebana wholesaler for more information.

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COSTING PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS IN A SALON

By Otto Mitter

Congratulations, you have opened your new business. You’ve invested time and money in all your training, you are confident in your skills, familiar with your chosen product ranges, set yourself a budget and have a firm plan in place to attract your customers.

It’s a very exciting time for any new beauty entrepreneur, the world is your oyster and it is now time to start your journey and bring in the clients.

However, what happens when you need to start paying bills? All of the sudden the expenses are adding up, yet when you budgeted and priced up your treatment menu you were sure that you would be bringing in truckloads of dollars.

Like any curious and stressed new business owner, you will start searching for answers, and one of the obvious factors for a successful business is costing up the pricing treatments accordingly. When it comes to costing up treatments there is so much more to it than simply looking at the price of a product and checking how many applications you get out of it. Always consider costing up your treatments much like doing a budget.

Product price, time allocation and incidental costing all need to be considered.

SALON PRICING

Salon expenses are a huge factor that everyone needs to break down and incorporate into their treatment pricing. Rent, water, electricity, bank fees, products, consumables and insurance are just a few of the incidentals you need to consider and take into account.

Not to mention your superannuation! These monthly bills can come around very quickly and if you haven’t budgeted or priced correctly could leave you in the red.

SOURCING OF PRODUCTS

Yes, we know you can always source some cheaper alternatives for products. However, you always need to look at the quality aspect of this as well. There are also great advantages to being able to work with people close to you or local suppliers that can offer great support and service as opposed overseas suppliers. So at the end of the day you need to find the balance of support, great products and quality.

USING PRODUCT EFFECTIVELY

You need to ensure you and your staff are actually using products in the correct method because it’s all too easy to use too much product and all of a sudden, your profit is out the window.

This is another aspect that you really have to monitor when you have staff members working for you. Being able to monitor how much product is being used with clients is not always an easy task. This is why you need to have a balance of good training with your team and trust they are not wasting product. Product wastage is one of the biggest hurdles many salons have to face, you can literally save thousands if you manage your product usage effectively!

CHARGING YOUR WORTH

Just because you have started out as a new business doesn’t mean you need to undersell yourself. This is

something we see all too much, therapists going into competition with others and lowering their prices to achieve unrealistic profit margins. Clients appreciate coming to a therapist that has invested in their training and professional development. Lowering your worth and your prices to unrealistic profit margins is not sustainable and it also brings down the value of our industry, potentially you will end up running into financial hardship going down this path. You will also get to a point where you need more clients in the door to make the profit you need to just keep the business running.

Long term this means you will be overworked and not being paid enough for your time for all your efforts, not to mention time away from your friends and family. As you grow your business you will realise time is one of the most valuable commodities. If you can charge more and have less clientele but still make the same money and have more time on your hands, you’ll definitely be a happier business owner in the long run.

Charging your worth is paramount in business. Always consider the money you have invested into training, furthering your skills and education to offer your clients the best services possible. You are worth it.

RETAIL PRODUCTS

Selling retail products in your salon would be one of the easiest ways to help keep your business thriving and afloat and more often than not, retailing can be done during your treatment, costing you no more additional time or money. Having a great range of popular high selling retail products that have a great product mark up and a strong brand following is essential.

HOURLY PRODUCTIVITY

You have now formulated your budget, time allocation for each treatment and have a plan in place. The next step is to ensure that this now all falls in line your hourly productivity. Your hourly productivity needs to represent how much money you need to be bringing into your salon every hour to cover all (I repeat, all) of your costs.

Many salons need to make an average of $100+ per hour just to be covering costs and to stay afloat.

The best way to help increase your hourly productivity on top of retail is finding treatments that are costeffective, fast and profitable.

Many clients these days are attracted to services that give them results immediately, these are high turnover treatments in salons and you need to be looking at these options and how you can make a strong profit from them. Lashes, brows, PMU, nails, waxing are all popular services and very profitable. Look at ways you can combine your treatments and with essential retail products that compliment the treatment, such as lash serums, brow cosmetics, after care and mascara.

THIS IS YOUR LIFE, WOULD YOU LIKE TO TAKE SOME RESPONSIBILITY WITH THAT?

By Julie Cross

I was sharing some reflections with a friend about a poor decision I had made and she said to me (and it was from a very caring place), “Jules, don’t be so hard on yourself”. And perhaps I am sometimes.

Then I got to thinking … I think we all need to do more reflection and take more responsibility.

Responsibility means the ‘ability to respond’... so if something we have said or done has not provided the result we want rather than ‘blaming’ other people or circumstances we should reflect and take responsibility.

I am all for spreading the love and sparkle… you know that about me, but everything doesn’t have to be so wrapped in sparkle and sugar coated that we deny ourselves authenticity, growth and redirection! When did making a mistake become a bad thing, when did failing at something equal not being good enough?

It seems we are always trying to protect our children and we aren’t allowed to say fail anymore, and we seem to always be trying to find ways to prevent them from ‘falling’ or ‘hurting’ because we don’t want to see them hurt, or it may affect their self-esteem.

The truth is it is in the getting back up that self-esteem is nurtured… Your true self knows when you did the wrong thing, made the wrong decision, said the wrong thing or simply weren’t quite good enough at something just yet. My oldest son Jack has been playing Rugby since he was four years old. He played at school and in Grade 9 he had an opportunity to make the team that would travel interstate to play. He never made the team and he was devastated. All his mates would go on the trip without him. I was devastated for him but this was not the time to say the coach was no good or it wasn’t fair. In this case what I had to do was empathise with his disappointment but gently point out that although he was always enough, perhaps his game just wasn’t good enough to make the team this time and he would be alright and there was always next time. It isn’t easy to watch your children hurt that is for sure, but it is all a part of life. If we want to bring up resilient adults, they will have to fall down now and again. And do you know what? There was a gift in that moment, Jack got back

up from that disappointment and he trained harder than ever… he got stronger and more skilled physically and emotionally. He worked so hard that he made the first grade team in Year 12 and just recently he was name in the ‘Australian Defence Force’ team… representing Australia. So, maybe if he hadn’t ‘failed’ to make the team back then he wouldn’t have been inspired to work as hard as he did?

Life gently nudges us in the direction we need to go to live our best lives... and some times it is a shove not a nudge. Personal growth and achievement and reaching the fullest expression of who you are and being real, raw and honest cannot happen without mistakes, failure and taking responsibility for the part you played in the situation.

Sometimes you just need to give yourself a good talking too and that is ok! And then, know that if you are having those moments, (and let them be moments and move on), YOU are not a failure you are simply in a process of growth...you are ALIVE and living a big and exciting life and this takes reflecting and discovering what behaviours and actions will serve you best to live your greatest life!

I often have to give myself a good talking too, but I don’t stay mad, I then love myself up for having the courage to take responsibility and do better next time...

So the next time you are in a situation either professionally or personally where you have had some feedback that was negative rather than blaming somebody else ask yourself, “What did I do to contribute to this situation and how can I grow from this?”

It is our life we are living here so let’s take some responsibility with it!

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BUSINESS

DATA SHARING, TRUST AND BEAUTY

By Jeb Gleason-Allured

“I founded Facebook on the idea that people want to share and connect with people in their lives, but to do this everyone needs complete control over who they share with at all times … Overall, I think we have a good history of providing transparency and control over who can see your information.”

- Mark Zuckerberg

The good news: Facebook founder and chief executive Mark Zuckerberg wrote these words on Facebook’s bloga. The bad news: he wrote them on November 29, 2011, more than seven years before the company revealed that political data firm Cambridge Analytica had gained access to private information on as many as 87 million Facebook users, primarily in the United States.

Since those revelations, Zuckerberg has announced, “We have a responsi¬bility to protect your data, and if we can’t then we don’t deserve to serve you.”

As I write this, Zuckerberg is preparing to testify before a joint hearing of the U. S. Senate Judiciary and Commerce committees, as well as the House Energy and Commerce Committee.

While no one is seriously arguing that the #DeleteFa¬cebook movement will lead to a mass exodus from the platform—or its immensely popular Instagram app. But it may spur greater 66

Beauty Biz Year 11 Issue 3

consumer awareness of data privacy, which will require companies to get serious about protections to ensure innovation can continue apace.

Data allows brands and retailers to craft evermore curated experiences for each and every consumer. Since the birth of e-commerce, brands have collected data such as purchase histories, payment information, addresses and contact information. Today, however, personalisation innovation has spawned personal care systems built on consumer DNA, epigenetic data and even hair samples; smart mirrors that diagnose and track skin health; augmented reality try-on apps that track user behaviours; browsing histories that follow shoppers from one platform to another; and voice commands that build insights into consumer activities.

On the horizon, eye tracking capabilities and AI-powered mood diagnostics could take data collection from an assessment of actions to one centered on emotional state and intent. And, as

smart home technologies grow in sophisti¬cation and ubiquity in all public spaces, new levels of data collection will become possible.

But data collection thrives on trust and a perception of value. To date, consumers have generally shown a willingness to share data when they value and trust a brand, and are even willing to share this information when offered special benefits or services in exchange. But high profile violations, including data breaches and misuse of user information, could erode these attitudes.

Data is oxygen for innovation. The beauty industry will need to keep an eye on how Silicon Valley juggernauts respond to recent data controve¬rsies, learn from them, and work to ensure the free and responsible flow of information continues.

Jeb Gleason-Allured is a writer for the Global Cosmetic Industry Magazine and Perfumer & Flavorist Magazine.

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BUSINESS

SALON SMARTS:

SHOULD I STAY OR SHOULD I GROW?

By Jay Chapman

Salons come in all shapes and sizes, from pocket-sized microbusinesses to bustling teams of epic proportions. What’s the sweetspot for you? Making the most of your current size, or taking a leap and expanding your team? Should you stay, or should you grow? Let’s take a look at the pros and cons.

Current wisdom seems to be that sticking to just one or two team members in the beauty space could mean your business days are numbered. Don’t worry.

It’s not all doom and gloom.

As with almost every salon dilemma, you (the salon owner) are the problem AND the solution.

So, what’s the attraction of a bigger team?

We beauty peeps are pack animals. We do our best work when we bounce off one another, share ideas, support and confide in each other.

Studies show that job seekers in our industry are drawn more to salons with bigger teams.

There’s a perception that larger salons have a proven model, stronger client base plus better conditions and opportunities for staff.

Then there’s your profit margin to consider. Overheads are growing, superannuation will soon hit 10%, the tax man is ever hungrier, commercial rents are skyrocketing and staff know their entitlements inside-out and back-to-front (just as they should).

All this adds up to your baseline expenses being very high. The revenue a pocket-sized salon needs to turn over each week to break even and stay afloat is creeping ever faster upwards, 68

Beauty Biz Year 11 Issue 3

chewing away at already-thin profit margins.

Across the beauty industry, profit margins vary enormously.

Between 10% and 25% is quite standard but leaves next-to-no wriggle room.

Still, we’ve seen a huge trend of salon owners and hairdressers opting for in-home set-ups.

And why not? No more boring commutes, car parking woes or exorbitant shop front leases.

Not to mention the obvious advantage – NO employees to deal with!

Then there’s the downside. The monotony of working where you live and the isolation that comes with being a “onesie” doesn’t cut it for many in our “social butterfly” community.

So, what IS the solution?

Many salon owners contact me seeking advice and clarity around what is the right next step for them. Together, we unpack what’s really happening in the salon, take an honest look at what’s possible, and get clarity around the best and most logical steps forward.

Sometimes, the best option is to stay AND grow. You can train your salon team in a way that creates a more streamlined environment, enabling you (the salon owner) to step back while your team does their ‘thing’.

“EVERYTHING YOU HAVE EVER WANTED BEGINS JUST ONE STEP BEYOND YOUR COMFORT ZONE”

I know for sure that having only one, two or three team members can be a false economy.

One team member leaving (for whatever reason) creates a huge hole in your salon’s earning capacity. And that can be paralysingly stressful.

Understand this: choosing to have a micro salon means your business is in a higher risk category. You just need to own that risk and work with it. Done right, it’s a viable business model.

I’ve worked with many “micro category” salon owners with thriving, profitable, safe and sound businesses.

Also understand this: small-scale is not for everyone. If you feel the pull to grow but don’t know how to move forward on it, start by understanding the FIVE things most likely to be holding you back from growing to where you want to be.

1. Slowing momentum: This takes many forms, most commonly a simple lack of business smarts around when, how and why to grow a salon business. You simply get stuck – typically in a frustrating “one step forward, two steps back” rhythm.

2. False safety: You find yourself in the perfect, safe sweetspot: two members and everything running just fine. The truth is, once you settle for “just fine”, you stop trying and everything slows down. You need to keep pushing forward, always planning for your next team member.

3.

Lack of planning: Failing to plan is planning to fail. Few salon owners expand to having a big team and thriving business without a plan and clear goals. The bigger your business, the more crucial it is for you to quit stabbing in the dark and start planning for where you want to be.

4.

Stuck being a technician: The bigger your team, the more time you need to spend on the backend of your business. Working 40+ hours each week in the beauty room is a tick-tocking time bomb for any growing salon business.

Balancing your hours IN your business with your

hours ON your business lets you step back and at look at it critically so you can truly lead your team and manage your growth.

5.

Cold comfort: We’re all human. We’re hardwired to opt for the path of least resistance through life. Rarely do we choose the more challenging route. But staying within your comfort zone has its own hazards – growth rarely happens there. My coach has always told me: “Lean into the discomfort because on the other side it’s much sweeter.”

At any given time in your business, you have two choices – step forward into growth or step back into safety. Both are valid choices. But if you do desire to grow, know this: everything you have ever wanted begins just one step beyond your comfort zone. The only things holding you back are the walls you build-up around yourself. The good news? You built them, you can also knock them down.

You are the problem AND you are the solution.

Jay is a specialist ZING salon coach. For more salon wisdom, email ZING at jay@zingcoach.com.au or visit the ZING website: www.zingcoach.com.au Beauty Biz Year 11 Issue 3

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BUSINESS

GLASS CEILING INDEX 2018

Study reveals percentage of female managers in 41 OECD and EU countries, highlighting the nations which offer the best opportunities for career progression.

• Latvia has the highest percentage of women in managerial positions at 44.4%, followed by the United States (43.5%) and Hungary (40.5%).

• South Korea has the smallest percentage of women in managerial positions at 10.7%, followed by Japan (11.5%) and Turkey (13%).

• With between 25-30% of female managers, The Netherlands, Germany and Austria all appear within the bottom 15 for women in managerial positions, despite offering some of the highest average wages for women.

• The lack of women in senior roles was reported by the BBC last week, with new data revealing that just 1 in 3 UK firms have a majority of women among their top earners.

Berlin, Germany, 11/04//2018 - Leading technology career platform Honeypot, has released a study revealing the gender gap in managerial roles, with women accounting for less than 50% of senior positions in every nation.

With a lack of women in senior roles having been highlighted as a major aspect of gender disparity in the workplace, Honeypot wanted to enrich the debate by releasing this data. Using figures from the World Economic Forum, the study shows the percentage of women in senior or managerial positions, revealing which of the 41 countries offer the best and worst progression and promotional opportunities for women. This release is part of a larger study, The 2018 Women in Tech Index, which analyses 22 factors including wage, pay 70

Beauty Biz Year 11 Issue 3

gap and inequality data to determine the best nations for women in the technology field.

The tables below reveal the top and bottom 10 countries for % of women in senior or managerial roles:

With over 10,000 UK firms providing details of their gender pay gap last week, one of the most striking outcomes has been the lack of women in senior roles, with just 1 in 3 firms reporting a majority of women among their top earners.

This result is similarly reflected in our study, with women on average accounting for 31% of senior or managerial positions, and no nation having a 50/50 equal split between male and female managers.” comments Emma Tracey, CoFounder at Honeypot. “It’s incredibly important to include this aspect of gender disparity when

discussing the pay gap, because as long as men account for the majority of top earners, women will never be able to close the gap. This could be due in part to maternity-related disadvantages for women, who are often overlooked for promotions or return to underskilled jobs post childbirth.

Moving forwards, governments could look to the example of countries such as Sweden whose progressive maternity and paternity laws, as well as subsidised child care, has increased their gender balance in the workplace.”

The larger study focuses on 41 countries in the OECD and EU, and offers comparable data relating to both the tech industry and the wage gap. The data covers areas such as: • Gender in the Overall Economy: factors such as percentage of women in work and the overall gender income parity.

• Women in Tech: as measured by the number of women in IT positions compared to the overall numbers of people in tech.

• Opportunities for Women in Tech: calculated by comparing the difference between the percentage share of women in the general workforce, and the percentage of women in the technology sector. In addition, the study took into account the percentage of female STEM graduates.

• Tech Wage Gap: difference in gender wage gap between women working in the tech industry and the overall workforce at large.

• Female Career Progression: as judged by the percentage of women in managerial and ministerial positions.

Survey conducted by Honeypot, Europe’s TechFocused Job Platform for Software Developers, DevOps Engineers, Data Scientists, Product Owners, QA Testers and Engineering Leaders.

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BUSINESS

SMALL BUSINESS OWNERS STRUGGLING TO HAVE IT ALL Hardworking small business owners are feeling the pinch at home with research from CGU Insurance showing their work-life balance and social life are some of the biggest sacrifices they have to make to ensure the success of their business.

The CGU Insurance survey of 921 business owners reveals that although most SME owners view success as ‘the freedom to make my own decisions’ (68%) and achieving ‘work-life balance’ (66%) – almost half are sacrificing work-life balance (41%) and more than a third are missing out on important social events (35%).

According to the CGU Insurance research the top sacrifices of SME owners are: 1. Work-life balance – 41% 2. Job security – 38% 3. Missing out on important social events – 35% 4. Social isolation due to long working hours – 33% 5. Physical health – 17% This means that there are almost 850,000 SME owners across Australia sacrificing their work-life balance to make their business a success .

“One of the biggest challenges of running a small business is finding a way to grow without it taking 72

Beauty Biz Year 11 Issue 3

a toll on your personal life. Your happiness, and that of your family, shouldn’t have to take a backseat to your business, but the reality is there are only so many hours in the day,” said Kate Wellard, Small Business Spokesperson for CGU Insurance.

The CGU research also reveals that many SMEs are struggling to get the help they need with one in five (20%) saying that attracting talent/ accessing skilled workers is a key challenge.

This equates to over 410,000 SME owners struggling to find the help they need . Attracting and retaining customers and managing legal/ compliance issues (such as insurance) are also major challenges (43% and 26%). It also shows that while many SME owners are feeling ‘hopeful’ (32%) and ‘positive’ (22%), one in five are feeling ‘under appreciated’ (19%).

“Running a small business often means doing everything yourself, but this often isn’t conducive to a healthy business or a happy personal life.

However, one of the best things about running your own business is that you are in the driver’s

seat. You can make changes that will make a difference,” said Ms Wellard.

“Our advice to small business owners searching for that elusive work-life balance is to look for ways to work smarter, not harder. Making sure you have the right support, both in terms of staff and professional advice when you need it can also make a huge difference. It can also free up more time for spending with family and friends or doing what you love.

“Our research also highlights the importance of networking, with 56% of small business owners saying this is the main business support resource they lean on. Although it may seem counterproductive when you’re already busy, finding time to network can lead to new opportunities, new solutions, or even new staff members that can help ease your workload,” said Ms Wellard.

To help support SME owners CGU Insurance has teamed up with Airtasker and others to give small business owners more time at work and at home. For more information visit www.cgu.com.au/moretime

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BUSINESS

HOW TO ADD VALUE TO YOUR INSTAGRAM STORIES FOR BETTER USER ENGAGEMENT

By Tahlia Shorter

Since the launch of Instagram Stories over a quarter of a billion users including businesses are using the platform to grow brand awareness, increase traffic and expand their social media reach.

Thanks to Stories, Instagram is now the fastest growing social media network and one of the most popular ways to engage with an audience. Instagram Stories work as an engagement tool because Stories are exclusive, time-limited content that when done correctly no-one will want to miss out on.

FOMO—fear of missing out—happens when great content is created but the lifespan is limited. If an Instagram Story is just an ordinary picture with no added value users will switch off especially if it’s being sold as something exclusive. So whether you are adding photos or videos to your Story just make sure you’re adding value.

Here are some ways you can add value to your Instagram Stories and increase engagement.

GO LIVE

Consider live broadcasting if you’ve got an event or something you can share in real time. Your followers will be notified that you’re live and when you’re done you can save the video, share it to Stories for 24 hours or delete it. If you know something is going to happen and you really want to get that FOMO going use Stories to advertise ahead of time and once you’ve done it delete the broadcast so only your live followers get access to that content – it’ll create heaps of interest for your next live video.

VIDEO EFFECTS

Instagram has some seriously cool video effects and tools to help users get creative and produce sensational content: Boomerang, Stop Motion, Superzoom and Hands-Free.

Boomerang loops up to three seconds of video so it’s perfect for promos, ads and general japes.

Remember those flip-book cartoons we used to make at school? Well Stop Motion is the video version of that, seamlessly knitting several images together to make a cool video that goes way beyond the stickman you’d jot on your gridpaper maths book.

Superzoom video incrementally zooms in on your subject, which is great for creating drama or for some observational comedy but the real 74

Beauty Biz Year 11 Issue 3

beauty of superzoom is that you can add a soundtrack and create mini-movies.

Hands-Free mode is great if you want to set your camera up to film video for you and don’t have a buddy on hand to help (pun absolutely intended and I’m not even sorry). All you need to do is set your camera up where you want it and shout “ACTION!” (purchase of a Director’s Chair and clapperboard entirely optional but totally necessary if you really want to commit.)

FLOURISHES

Instagram Stories is all about the flourishes and extras: the stickers, the polls, the location tags, hashtags, text, colours and filters. The options are endless and the more fun you can make your Stories the better the engagement.

Posting a simple photo is usually a nono for Stories; it’s not unique or exclusive enough to warrant a 24-hour countdown to deletion. Thankfully you can add some funk to your posts with stickers and even turn your own photos into stickers.

Have some fun with text and drawings. The pen tool will help you add embellishments and doodles or to highlight words. Use text to add a pithy quote, description, teaser or observation to your image or video and don’t be shy to add some panache to your text with rainbow colours, backgrounds and strokes.

Finally, add locations, hashtags and polls to your Stories. Locations and hashtags will make your Stories more searchable and two-choice polls can help ramp up engagement as they easy to take and just as easy to share. It’s far simpler for someone to tap on a poll than it is to write a comment and often the simplest data is the best when gauging customer interest for products or services. Plus polls are innately friendlier than requests for feedback.

FINAL TIPS

Firstly, make sure your Instagram shareable otherwise what’s the like having really great news but one person and swearing them

Stories are point? It’s only telling to secrecy.

“Hey, I graduated top of my class but don’t tell Dad because I thrive on the expectation of disappointment.”

And as with all content, keep it fresh and regular.

Don’t post something once and then come back in a few weeks. Line-up content regularly and evenly spaced. Unlike other platforms you won’t need to time your updates for certain times as they’ll appear in your newsfeed for up to 24 hours.

Finally, have fun with it! Instagram Stories is engaging because it is fun and the time limit gives you licence to be creative and try new things.

If you would like to hear more about where social media can take your beauty salon, you can learn more at Scene It Social. They can help talk you through a digital marketing strategy so you can focus on running your salon and taking care of your clients! They can be easily contacted by email at hello@ sceneitsocial.com.au and you can also learn more by visiting www.sceneitsocial.com.au

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