Beauty Biz Year 9 issue 5

Beauty Biz The Essential Business Guide for Salons and Spas

Year 9 Issue 5

THE POWER OF SCIENCE AS NATURE INTENDED.

Naturaceuticals

AUSTRALIAN WHOLESALER OF THE YEAR 2016

AUSTRALIA’S LEADING WHOLESALER FOR SALON PROFESSIONALS

always helping salons

• HAIR • EQUIPMENT • DISPOSABLES • BROWS • LASHES/TINTING/LIFTING

• LEADING SALON BRANDS • AWARD WINNING SERVICE • OVER 130 SALON BRANDS

Campbelltown Superstore

Shop 12/7 Hollylea Rd Leumeah

Ph: 4627 7100

Wollongong Superstore

Shop 1/8 Kenny Street Wollongong

Ph: 4229 5556

Caringbah Superstore

82 Captain Cook Drive Caringbah

Ph: 9526 2457

N AT I O N W I D E P H O N E O R D E R S : 1 3 0 0 9 2 9 0 3 3

AUSTRALIAN WHOLESALER OF THE YEAR 2016 • BEAUTY SUPPLIES • TANNING • WAXING • NAILS • SHELLAC • GELS

• LATEST HOT PRODUCT TRENDS • PROFESSIONAL ADVICE • NEW SALON PACKAGES

LO

LS

Ph: 9712 5666

9

TRADE ONLY

SA

Ph: 9584 2678

106 Queens Road Five Dock

FOR

77 Boundary Road Mortdale

Five Dock Superstore

CE 19

NA

HEAD OFFICE

SIN

2

Mortdale Superstore

O NP ROFESSI

www.beautywarehouse.com.au

CON TENTS ON THE COVER

16 “Inflammaging” & the Future of Skincare By Metro-Dora Clifford

REGULARS

06 Editors Letter 12-15 Industry News 62-63 Beauty Shop 64 Nails 66 Tanning

AUSTRALIAN BEAUTY INDUSTRY AWARDS

08-10 2016 ABIA Winners Announced 18 ABIA Beauty Therapist of the Year – Daniela Boerma 20 ABIA Salon Manager/CoOrdinator of the Year – Ella King, Cove Spa 22 ABIA Business Director/Owner of the Year – Rene Thorpe, The Temple Skincare 22 ABIA Best Beauty Salon (4 or less rooms) - The Temple Skincare 24 ABIA Best Customer Care – Cove Spa 26 ABIA Best Tanning Salon/ Service – Nabu Bronzing Bar 28 ABIA Best Marketing of the Year – Kedurah Day Spa 29 ABIA Best Educator of the Year (Individual) - Andrew Christie 30 ABIA Hall of Fame - Cameron– Jane Thomas 30 ABIA Education Organisation of the Year – Cameron Jane Make Up Design 32 ABIA Salon Team of the Year – Miss Kit 33 ABIA Special Recognition Award – Beauty on Latrobe 34 ABIA Day Spa of the Year – Bodhi J 36 ABIA Best Beauty Salon (5 or More Rooms) - Simply Elegant 37 ABIA Wholesaler of the Year – The Beauty Warehouse 38 ABIA Make Up Artist of the Year – Alana Mevissen

Clinical Skincare 1800 628 999

FEATURE

40 Pure Smile 42 Hair Removal for the Client with Cancer

PROFILE

44 Miss Universe Winner Caris Tiivel 46 Body Contouring 48 Your Lips, Your Lipstick – The Lip Lab

SPA PROFILE

50 The New Face of Medispa

DERMAL

52 Wild Beauty 54 Vegan, Gluten-Free & Glowing

by Carlia Ashton & Shannon Wylie 56 Understanding Topical Retinoids By Andrew Christie 58 The Skin You Are In By Dora Erdossy

EVENTS

60 Beauty Expo Australia 2016

MAKE UP

68 10 Minutes with Dale Dorning

BLOG SPOT

70 ‘High Tech’ Still Needs ‘High Touch’ By Julie Cross

BUSINESS

72 Resignations in the Business 74 Has Your Salon Got its Face On By Lisa Conway

W E N

Wax Pro

200

P RO F E S SI O N A L

PERFECT FOR SMALL WORK STATIONS, MOBILE SALONS OR MAKE-UP ARTISTS

200ml

Wax Heater • High performance heating system • Variable temperature control

• Suitable for all wax types

Contact M&U Imports for full product details on (03) 9555 1533 sales@muimports.com.au | www.muimports.com.au 662 South Rd, Moorabbin Victoria 3189 Australia

Beauty Biz PUBLISHER

Linda Woodhead linda@mochapublishing.com.au

Editors Editors Note

EDITOR

April Jones april@mochapublishing.com.au

ADVERTISING MANAGER Nina Barbara nina@mochapublishing.com.au

ART DIRECTOR

Kellie Woodhead kellie@mochapublishing.com.au

ADMINISTRATION

Jess Richmond jess@mochapublishing.com.au

At the beginning of each season, I forget anything negative about the coming months. With the onset of winter, for instance, I forget about the fact that it’s dark when I finish working, or how much longer it can take a load of washing to dry - all I think about are cosy movie nights and warm, luxurious massages!

CONTRIBUTORS

Summer is about long evening meals and outdoors (not mozzies and sunburn!) But try as I might I cannot recall a single negative about Spring. The nights are beautifully cool for sleeping, with clear, warm days that just keep on getting longer. Spring is when I love everything about living in Australia and a time for inspiration when your home begs to be cleaned, decluttered and reorganised!

OFFICE

So in the spirit of spring organisation, our ABIA Winners feature is perfectly planned to capture your imagination and encourage you into action for the 2017 awards! An amazing evening of fun, laughter and more than a few tears (of joy of course!) were had on the beauty night of nights in Sydney and we have the highlights for you to enjoy, including a peek at the gorgeous new awards that were designed by our very own Kellie Woodhead! The awards have become a well established highlight in the beauty calendar and we were honoured to be joined by so many amazing salon teams, guests and individuals.

April Jones Metro-Dora Clifford Carlia Ashton Shannon Wylie Andrew Christie Dora Erdossy Julie Cross Lisa Conway

PO BOX 252 Helensvale Plaza Qld 4212 P: 07 5580 5155 mail@mochapublishing.com.au www.mochapublishing.com.au

DISTRIBUTION

Australia Post - Print Post 100005498

PRINTING APN

PUBLISHED BY

This months business articles feature some great insights and pieces from a few newer contributors to Beauty Biz who we are very excited to have onboard: HABA tackle the tricky subject and legalities of resignations in the workplace and Zing Coaching look at how the ‘face’ of your business can be a make or break for potential clients. On the dermal front, I am personally very excited to have the amazing Dora D’Orssey contribute a skin feature I could not wait to read, having been an educator and true skin expert I have followed for many years. Dora’s teachings and skin set are very unique and I am sure if you are a skin love like I am you will love this feature.

mocha publishing

PUBLISHERS OF

HAIR BIZ, Beauty Biz & Barber Shop Beauty Biz is published six times a year by mocha publishing ABN 65 091 846 189 No Part of the publication may be reproduced in any manner or form without written permission. Beauty Biz does not accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies, original artwork or other material. The views expressed in Beauty Biz are not necessarily those of the publisher.

No responsibility will be accepted if the publication is delayed or prevented by factors beyong the control of the publisher.

No responsibility will be accepted for errors in copy, or for any loss arising from the failure of an advertisement or any part thereof to appear. © 2016 mocha publishing All rights reserved.

Please keep in mind that we are always open to considered features and contributions from our readers as you are the TRUE business and skin experts working in your salons, spas and clinics each day: The insights and information we receive from hands on business and beauty industry professionals is some of the best information we receive and learning from each other is a big part of the continued journey for many of us, including myself!’

Enjoy the mag this month and the lovely Spring months and I look forward to bringing you another full edition soon Many thanks

April April Jones Editor

A new era in eyebrow colouring & design

Going beyond the existing range of services and developing a new technique of eyebrow tinting with tattoo effect and spa care in one treatment!

Before

After

• No hydrogen peroxide • No lead or ammonia • 7 colours available

• Tattoo effect • Lasts up to 4 weeks on hair

To find your nearest stockist go to www.belmacil.com and click on distributors or contact Ex-Import Niche Products T: 07 5576 6388 E: info@belmacil.com

• Natural alternative for sensitive clients • Professional use

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Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

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WINNERS ANNOUNCED AT THE

2016 AUSTRALIAN BEAUTY INDUSTRY AWARDS

by

B E A U T Y

Australian Beauty In

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ndustry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

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Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

At the stunning Dockside Pavilion, Darling Harbour, Sydney, on Sunday 21st August, over 400 glamorous and excited guests arrived for the annual Australian Beauty Industry Awards (ABIA’s) gala dinner. The evening kicked off with arrival champagne and canapés followed by host and MC for the evening, Mr Will Fennell, introducing entertainers ‘Gentlemen Of Deceit’ to open the show.

Winners were announced in 16 categories including 2016 ABIA Hall of Fame recipient – Cameron Jane Thomas and 2016 ABIA Make Up Artist of the Year – Alana Mevissen.

A new category this year was the Special Recognition Award, which was given to a finalist who despite not winning their category, had shown exceptional tenacity and business acumen, standing out to the judges of worthy mention. This year’s recipient was Beauty On Latrobe.

The Education Category was split into 2 awards for Individual and Organisation and was taken out by Andrew Christie and Cameron Jane Make Up Design Academy respectively.

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Also this year for the first time Wholesalers were recognised through an online voting system and following the announcement of the state winners in May, the overall Australian Winner was announced on the night as The Beauty Warehouse, NSW In just five short years, the ABIA’s have cemented their position as the Oscars of the beauty industry and with a growing number of entrants each year, they are clearly seen as the benchmark of excellence and the most sought after accolade for salons and spas in Australia.

“It is humbling to see how much the ABIA’s have grown in such a short time,” said Linda Woodhead, owner of mocha publishing and founder of the ABIA’s. “Not only did the number of entries increase this year, but the number of guests attending the gala was up by over 30% from 2015. This is something the beauty industry should be very proud of, as am I. It’s great to see year after year the growth of this initiative and how it is now embraced by the industry as the awards what certainly set the benchmark of excellence” The ABIA’s are proudly owned by mocha publishing. cont’d over page

Beauty Biz

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Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

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Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

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cont’d from page 9

2016 AUSTRALIAN BEAUTY INDUSTRY AWARDS WINNERS Best Beauty Salon (5 Treatment rooms or more) Sponsored by caronlab SIMPLY ELEGANT Best Beauty Salon (4 Treatment rooms or less) Sponsored by inskincosmedics THE TEMPLE SKINCARE Best Day Spa Sponsored by Dermapen by Equipmed BODHI J Tanning Salon/Service of the Year Sponsored by Naked Tan NABU BRONZING BAR Make Up Artist of the Year Sponsored by Bodyography ALANA MEVISSEN Beauty Therapist of the Year Sponsored by Belmacil Lash and Brow Tints DANIELA BOERMA, BLISS DAY SPA Business Director/Owner of the Year Sponsored by Mayerling RENE THORPE, THE TEMPLE SKINCARE Salon Manager/Co-Ordinator of the Year Sponsored by Spectrum Science and Beauty ELLA KING, COVE SPA Best Marketing Sponsored by Biodroga KETURAH DAY SPA

by

Beauty Biz

Salon Team of the Year Sponsored by Silk Oil of Morocco MISS KIT Best Customer Care Sponsored by Brisbane School of Beauty COVE SPA Educator of the Year (Individual) Sponsored by Masters Dermal Academy ANDREW CHRISTIE, LIPSERVICE CONSULTING Educator of the Year (Organisation) Sponsored by Karpati CAMERON-JANE MAKE UP DESIGN State Wholesalers of the Year Sponsored by Beauty Biz VIC/TAS - EFB Salon Supplies WA/NT - Prestige Salon Supplies SA - SA Beauty Supplies NSW/ACT - The Beauty Warehouse QLD - Profile Salon Supplies Australian Wholesaler Of The Year THE BEAUTY WAREHOUSE Special Recognition Award Sponsored by Mocha BEAUTY ON LATROBE Hall of Fame Sponsored by Refectocil CAMERON JANE THOMAS

B E A U T Y

BIA

ndustry Awards 2016

Introducing the completely NEW 2 step tinting system - Refectocil Sensitive - that allows you to tint eyebrows and eyelashes in only 3 minutes with colours based on plant extracts.

This breakthough innovation just released on the market allows you to offer the perfect tinting service for all clients especially those with sensitive skin and eyes who have previously had to forgo this treatment can now have beautiful accentuated eyes too! Dermatologically and Opthalmologically tested.

Refectocil Sensitive is the first eyelash tint that works based on plant extracts, with yarrow, horse chestnut extract, marigold, green tea, safflower, hydrangea, Chinese Galle, St John’s Wort, walnut extract, juniper, goldenrod, nettle, blueberry, chaste berry, red wine extract.

Available in 4 Colours BLACK: tints every hair in a rich, pure black and is suitable for lashes and very dark brows.

DARK BROWN: tints every hair in a dark brown and is suitable for medium to dark brown hair.

MEDIUM BROWN: tints light brown to dark blonde hair in a warm brown.

LIGHT BROWN: tints hair in a soft brown.

8 Applications Kits contain : 1x 3.5ml Colour Gel, 1 x 3.5ml Developer Gel, 1 x Tinting stick, 1 x Tinting Brush & 16 Eye Protection Papers

AVAILABLE NOW

ASK FOR REFECTOCIL SENSITIVE AT ALL LEADING SUPPLIERS SOLE IMPORTER LEE FRAN BEAUTY IMPORTS P/L www.lfbi.com.au www.refectocil.com.au www.refectocil.co.nz

INDUSTRY NEWS mesoestetic Clinic of the Year Announced Dr Anh in Perth was recently announced mesoestetic Clinic of the Year July 2015 – June 2016 by Advanced Cosmeceuticals.The clinic was awarded the prize, which is a trip to Barcelona including return flights in September, 3 nights accommodation, visit to mesoestetic Head Office and a treatment at the mesoestetic Clinic. Dr Anh nominated her Beauty Therapist, Charmaine Mallasch to receive the prize as Mesoestetic Retailer of the Year.

Linda Christian, Business Development Manager, Advanced Cosmeceuticals presented the clinic with certificates and a trophy. Both Dr Anh and Charmaine were thrilled to receive the award. “We are so happy to present Dr Anh and Charmaine with this award and we thank them and all our mesoesetetic accounts for their ongoing support and commitment. We are so pleased to be able to present Charmaine with this incredible opportunity to visit mesoestetic in Barcelona,” says Catherine Biedermann, Managing Director, and Advanced Cosmeceuticals.

Training & Education Seminars

Make Up By Betty Mekonnen | Hair: Jim Shaw - DASS Salon & Spa, Atlanta GA Color: Tarra Kruper | Production: Downtown Images NYC Photography: Tom Carson | Stylist: Bunny Lampert

Medik8 clinics in Sydney, Brisbane, Melbourne and New Zealand had the opportunity to attend a full day Medik8 Training Seminar plus Medik8 Peel Certification Course with Alison Wait, Medik8’s International Trainer. The seminar focused on Medik8 research and new product development, advanced skin science of pigmentation and advanced peel techniques and certification.

Alison discussed the exciting recent product developments including recently launched and innovations currently in the pipeline. The seminar also addressed the topic of advanced skin science, examining the science behind photoageing and different types of pigment irregularities. Attendees learned about Medik8 skin solutions for the 7 pillars of skin concerns such as skin ageing, blemishes, dryness, dark circles, pigmentation, redness and body, to effectively meet a client’s skincare needs.

Attendees who had registered for certification also performed and received a Medik8 peel treatment, and were required to complete a written assessment.

Clairderm introduces Oxygen Infusion Therapy

As we age, the oxygen levels in our skin decreases resulting in a loss of skin elasticity. This contributes to the formation of fine lines and wrinkles.

Clairderm Oxygen Infusion Therapy uses concentrated high pressure oxygen technology (96%) to infuse and replenish lost oxygen to the cells. This helps to stimulate the skin’s metabolic processes, increase cell regeneration, accelerate dermal collagen production and encourage enhanced elasticity.

This anti-ageing and skin hydrating treatment is suitable for all skin types and should be done in conjunction with hydrating BeautyMed serums, which together with the oxygen pass through the epidermis into the skin cells. It’s the perfect solution to help promote a plumping of the skin, a reduction in visible lines and wrinkles for a fresher, more radiant, plumped and glowing skin.

www.clairderm.com.au

The French Beauty Academy new range of courses In September 2016, The French Beauty Academy is launching a range of newly developed beauty and makeup workshops and short courses. The short course program has been specifically designed for beginners with an interest in beauty to take the very first steps in industry and explore their passion, and for expert makeup artist to build upon their skill set and expertise in particular areas of interest.

Course highlights include a strong fashion focused curriculum including learning looks for runway, editorial beauty, as well as period and avant garde couture. Expert makeup artists can improve their employability and position themselves as a sought after talent with courses like the business of bridal, ethnic makeup and an advanced contouring workshop.

Students will be guided by expert educators who have travelled the world as leading makeup artists.

They have worked across the fashion runways of the world, on blockbuster films and television sets with movie stars, celebrities and top end fashion designers.

Courses will take the format of evening workshops or will run over a series of evening classes depending on their level.

For more information email courses@thefrench.edu.au or calling +61 7 5562 2567

Hair & Makeup Artist Organiser App! With the launch of the ingenious Bridal Beauty Pro App, it’s never been so easy for Bridal Hair & Makeup Artists to keep their clients’ information, notes, hair references and makeup preferences in one place!

Developed by Sue McLaurin, a professional makeup artist with over 15 years in the business, Bridal Beauty Pro is the ultimate way for hair & makeup artists to organise wedding bookings by allowing the creation of a file for each individual bride and storing all their wedding day details, inspiration pictures, trial records and photos, together in one app, and readily available at the tap of a finger!!

“The artist simply creates a file for the bride, and enters all the relevant information: wedding day details, contact details, timings, and then all the notes from the trial, products and tools used, and photographs. So on the wedding day, rather than scrolling through notes, emails, and thousands of photos, and hopping from one program to another, everything is all together.”

Freshly available to access, Bridal Beauty Pro has been incredibly well received not only in Australia but also as far reaching as the USA, the UK, and Slovenia. Currently the App is only available in the English language version.

Ultraceuticals Symposium 2016 Media, VIP’s and clinics donned lab coats recently to help celebrate the start of the Ultraceuticals Symposium 2016 road show which kicked off at Sydney’s Museum of Contemporary Art, Wednesday 21st September. The Symposium aimed to reignite the love and passion people have for Australia’s most awarded cosmeceutical Australian brand. The night brought some of Ultraceuticals most unique traits to life including its R&D, Not Tested on Animals certification and its history as pioneers in cosmeceuticals. The Symposium also launched some exciting new initiatives being rolled out in September such as their new UltraAcademy and UltraConsult.

INDUSTRY NEWS Big Towel Company expands to the USA and Canada Six years after initially introducing environmentally friendly towels to the Australian hair and beauty industry, Aussie owned Big Towel Company, headed by world acclaimed long hair artist, Sharon Blain, has just announced its expansion into the US market.

Recognised as a world leader in the development of innovative eco-salon sustainable products, Australia’s favourite disposable towels have landed onto the US and Canadian shores and are fast becoming accepted as the towels of the future. Now available online, salons globally are making the switch to eco-towels and are reaping in the benefits.

The move to expand the business off shore was largely due to the demands from environmentally conscious salons in the U.S. and Canada wanting a disposable towel option. Big Towel Company has now established a warehouse and distribution centre based in Los Angeles. As part of the expansion process, Big Towel Company recently unveiled some cosmetic changes to their brand awareness, image, and improved online customer service.

www.bigtowelcompany.com

Advanced Cosmeceuticals celebrates a 10-year milestone Advanced Cosmeceuticals is celebrating its 10-year milestone in December marking a decade of transition and strong growth. The company has evolved and adapted over that time to now become a stalwart of the aesthetics industry in Australia.

Ten years ago, when Advanced Cosmeceuticals purchased the distribution rights for SkinCeuticals, reputable cosmeceutical brands with proven results were few and far in between. SkinCeuticals stood as a pioneer in the cosmeceutical world and the success the company enjoyed with the brand, led to the decision to research and investigate other brands to join the portfolio.

Make Up By Betty Mekonnen | Hair: Jim Shaw - DASS Salon & Spa, Atlanta GA Color: Tarra Kruper | Production: Downtown Images NYC Photography: Tom Carson | Stylist: Bunny Lampert

While a number of brands were in contention, it was the UK based brand Medik8 that Advanced Cosmeceuticals eventually decided to take on board and introduce into Australia.

Medik8 was followed by cosmeceutical brands, Mesoestetic and DNA Renewal, which cater to the advanced salons and medical clinics. Silhouet-Tone which includes microdermabrasion devices, RMD and Vasculyse to support aesthetic treatments performed in clinics and salons has been a long standing brand distributed by Advanced Cosmeceuticals, as has Skindinavia, a unique brand of makeup finishing sprays and primers that enjoys a cult status in the market due to its innovative technology.

14th ASPYA Conference 2016 From 11th – 13th September 2016, The Marriott Hotel in Surfers Paradise hosted the 14th ASPYA Conference. In line with the theme of the conference, ‘Refresh, Explore, Inspire’, an exciting line-up of motivational speakers shared both secrets to success and tips to enrich and improve health and wellbeing.

Co-directors Chris, Anthony and Vinnie de Lorenzo had the pleasure of announcing the winners of the 2016 Gold Coast ASPYA Conference Awards, recognising excellence in the hair industry.

Loyalty Awards acknowledged salons who have worked with De Lorenzo for five and ten years, whilst the sought-after De Lorenzo ASPYA Salon of the Year Award that praises commitment to the industry was awarded to Hoopla Salon in Victoria.

The 2016 ASPYA conference ‘Refreshed, Explored and Inspired’ on every level, leaving attendees with the tools to enhance and improve both their own lives and their businesses. ASPYA members will eagerly await the 2017 conference, to be held in Bali

Less pain than laser Safer methods Dermapen TattOff finalist for Anti-aging Award Australia’s own Dermapen3 and the newly launched Dermapen TattOff has been announced as FINALIST for this years prestigious Anti-aging and Beauty Award at the “Aesthetic & Anti-aging Medicine European Congress in Paris, the largest and most interactive Aesthetic show in Europe.

CEO Stene Marshall Stated, “Dermapen has always been well received in Europe, and we are extremely excited about the new developments in the Dermapen family which will provide even further value and treatment modalities for our partners around the world, these developments have been well received by the judges giving us the privilege of our nomination as finalist.”

For more information Comfortel CleanSpa Pedi contact us at t: 1300 668 755 Improving hygiene in Pedicure e: info@dermapenworld.com w: dermapenworld.com Treatments

Or your local INSKIN COSMEDICS BDM

Introducing Comfortel CleanSpa, a NEW range of pedicure spas that will change the way we think of ‘clean’ pedicures. As hygiene is an important part of the nail industry and one that is commonly questioned by clients and regulated by government, the new range will improve the standard protocol.

To address the problem of the long cleaning process and the potential spread of infectious diseases between clients, Comfortel CleanSpa’s utilise a more hygienic method of disposable CleanSpa Liners and MagnaCleanse Jet, an improved pipeless technology with a magnetic cap.

So easy to clean, you only need to wipe down surfaces and clean the magnetic jet between clients.

Add a new disposable CleanSpa liner and clip on the sanitised jet. The improved standard cuts down cleaning time, while visibly reminding clients of improved hygiene.

With 3 models available, each CleanSpa comes with a free Pedicure Stool, 200 CleanSpa Liners, an inbuilt extraction gravity drain pump and 2 years warranty.

www.comfortel.com.au

PBS Awards 2016 Salon of the Year Congratulations to the deserving, incredibly dedicated salon team at Body Wisdom Contour Clinic in Perth for becoming Professional Beauty Solutions (PBS) 2016 winner of Salon of the Year.

At the amazing Passion to Profits 2.0 conference on the 19th and 20th of August 2016, salons nation-wide gathered together at the PBS inaugural gala dinner to find out if they were the lucky winner of the most prestigious prize of the night. That accolade finally went to owner of Body Wisdom, Amy Marvelli.

Body Wisdom is located in the beautiful suburb of Mount Hawthorn, WA where the business has been taken from strength to strength through Amy’s professional, no nonsense, but of course personable approach. Amy’s journey began at Body Wisdom as the manager, but in the last 2 and a half years she has become the owner and operator of the successful salon, and we can certainly see why!

“INFLAMMAGING” & THE FUTURE OF SKINCARE

By Metro-Dora Clifford B.Sc., MBA, AFABth, MELA

In an industry moving at breakneck speed, the advent of INFLAMMAGING serves as both a wakeup call and an ultimatum to product developers, cosmetic companies and skincare professionals alike. Scientific evidence suggests that many of today’s trademark treatments may actually exacerbate the conditions they are designed to treat in the long term, thanks to a phenomenon known as INFLAMMAGING – a term first coined by Professor Claudio Franceschi (University of Bologna) to describe chronic, persistent inflammation which is one of the main causes of ageing!

As the concept of inflammaging goes mainstream, it will result in widespread changes in the professional skincare industry, transforming everything from the ingredients to methods of its use. Most professionals are familiar with the visible signs of inflammation seen on the surface of the skin, representing infection, irritation or discomfort. However, weakened skin is at risk of invisible inflammation which exhausts the body’s defense system, dismantling key youth-sustaining skin structures, resulting in collagen and elastin degradation. The “inflammaging” process is a complex chain of events where acute inflammation and repeated injury gives way to Chronic or Silent inflammation leading to deep wrinkles, hyper-pigmentation, flaccid and inelastic tissue.

HOW INFLAMMAGING CAUSES SKIN AGEING

There is a direct link between extrinsic skinageing and inflammation - the reciprocal effect of many chronic inflammatory skin diseases such as psoriasis, atopic & seborrheic dermatitis on the stratum corneum barrier which is supposed to maintain the skin’s healthy hydration levels but when this integrity is compromised, an immune disorder occurs. The integrity of this barrier is maintained by the metabolic balance such as the synthesis of collagen fibers and the replacement of old and worn-out fibers and skin cells by means of enzymes called matrix metallo-proteinases (MMP). It is therefore important for all Skincare Professionals to

promote an Enzyme Peel once a month as part of their client’s skincare maintenance program, to ensure that the stratum corneum maintains healthy hydration levels so the deeper skin layers can continue to replace old collagen fibers through the process of MMP. Inflammaging on the other hand, destroys this balance, decreasing cellular metabolic activity and collagen renewal.

Externally the skin loses its suppleness and elasticity and becomes flaccid, generating reactive oxygen species accelerating oxidative damage, which perpetuates a chronic, pro-inflammatory state!

POPULAR INGREDIENTS THAT COMBAT INFLAMMAGING:

Allantoin, Turmeric, Beta Glucans, L-Bisabolol, Blue Agave, Catalase, L-Glutathione, Green Tea, Aloe Vera, Mangosteen, Willow Herbs, Magnolia Bark, Omega-3 & 6, Resveratol, Spin Traps, Tamanu Oil, Tocopherols, Camu Camu, L-Ascorbic Acid, Boswellic Acid, Copper Peptides, Giant Knotweed, Noni Fruit Extract, Rosemary Extracts, Alpha Lipolic Acid, Plant Stem Cells and Superoxide Dismutase

AS A SKINCARE PROFESSIONAL YOU SHOULD:

• Combine treatments to target the source of inflammation choosing your Acids wisely when providing Peel treatments such as Cabernet Peel (rich in Resveratrol), Lactic, Salicylic, Malic or Pyruvic acids, which work well in the Epidermal layer.

• Reinforce the barrier functions after exfoliation by protecting the natural moisturizing factor against transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

• Include serums containing ingredients rich in epidermal growth factors or amino acids, phospholipids, hyaluronic acids, lactates etc. infused into the skin, followed with cremes rich in Antioxidants and anti-inflammatory ingredients to help counteract irritation and combat inflammaging.

• Protect your treatment results with proper UV defense (SPF 30 +) and barrier

support to minimize the visible effects of inflammaging.

Inflammation, while recognized as the body’s response to cellular aggression or injury, also represents a defense mechanism designed to heal cells suffering from injury and protects the area from the consequences of that injury. However, inflammation also facilitates early tissue healing and repair as seen after any ANTIAGEING Laser treatment, allowing the body to restore itself to normal functions.

The complete healing of an injury can take several months as it goes through three phases in the healing process. In the inflammatory stage, healing proteins enter the damaged area, pushing the tissues apart with its swelling. This jump-starts the proliferation stage where white blood cells and macrophages begin cleaning the wound, contracting it as it receives oxygen and vital nutrients for regeneration. The remodelling stage is characterized by the production, organization and remodelling of collagen to strengthen the wound or injured area during laser, RF, peels or IPL treatments.

Research shows that repeated injury to the wounded area and insufficient time allowed for healing could lead to the chronic state of inflammation known as “inflammaging”.

Although anti-inflammatory ingredients are essential in the fight against inflammaging, any successful treatment must address the reinforcement and protection of the barrier functions of the epidermis by using topical care and broad spectrum UV protection, as inflammaging will only worsen with prolonged sun exposure.

For more detailed information free call: 1800 628 999 or email: ask@clinicalpro.com.au.

Clinical Microson HIFU Non-Surgical Face & Body Lifting Before

AFFORDABLE & RELIABLE

After 1 Rx

Before

After 1 Rx

The Clinical Microson HIFU has three unique features:

1

Produces localised heating at precise depths, treating much deeper tissues than lasers or RF can, without affecting the surface of the skin and therefore, no downtime for clients.

Clinical Skin Diagnostic Analyser3 2

Reaches coagulative temperatures of 60 to 70 degrees, denaturing old collagen while initiating neocollagenesis.

Using the four different cartridges for different treatment depths, it heats at a precise depth and temperature with regulated spacing every time and with repeatable treatment delivery.

Non-invasive and non-surgical device that produces surgical-type results but with no downtime, no client discomfort and no scars.

The Skin Assessment Concept for Face, Body, Hair and Cellulite.

Neck Lifting

Before

V-Shape

After 1 Rx

Lower Face Shaping

ASSESSMENT OF: + Hydration + Sebum + Elasticity +Clinical Melanin + pH +Skin Wrinkle Depth + Skin Ageing Diagnostic Analyser +The Pigmentati on + Acne ScarsConcept + Hair Removal Skin Assessment for Before

Before

After 1 Rx

Upper Arm Shaping

After 1 Rx

Before

After 1 Rx

Face, Body, Hair and Cellulite.

ASSESSMENT OF: + Hydration + Sebum + Elasticity + Melanin + pH + Wrinkle Depth + Skin Ageing + Pigmentation + Acne Scars + Hair Removal

1800 628 999 1800 628 999

WWW.CLINICALPRO.COM.AU WWW.CLINICALPRO.COM.AU

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Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

ABIA Beauty Therapist of the Year

DANIELA BOERMA Daniela Boerma, owner of Bliss Day Spa was “thrilled just to be a finalist again this year, let alone win!”

“I’m still pinching myself that my work has been recognised” Daniela Boerma She had set herself a personal goal to raise the bar on her work from 2015 and had introduced new treatments that allowed her to achieve greater results for her clients.

HOW DID YOU FEEL ABOUT YOUR WIN THIS YEAR?

My Gosh I’m so pleased the judges were happy with my submission. I’m still pinching my-self that my work has been recognized. I love what I do, helping people restore there natural beauty.

WHAT HAS BEEN PART OF YOUR DEVELOPMENT THIS YEAR IN SALON?

Part of my development this year has been setting myself personal goals, I knew I had to raise the bar this year to be nominated again. I am driven by helping people from all walks of life to achieve positive outcomes for their skin complaints and in doing so I have grown as a therapist. I love 18

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2016 ABIA Beauty Therapist of the Year Daniela Boerma with Otto MItter, Belmacil. setting myself personal goals, it pushes me to achieve more in the beauty industry.

WHAT DO YOU CREDIT AS BEING THE REASON FOR YOUR CONTINUED SUCCESS AS A LEADING THERAPIST?

I credit my parents. They raised me to understand success only comes with hard work and dedication and I have lots of that! I never assume to know it all, it’s amazing what you can learn by just listening to others and staying educated in all aspects of the beauty industry.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE TREATMENT IN SALON?

Without a doubt Radio Frequency treatments are my favourite. The rejuvenation and healing properties are outstanding, I have helped so many clients with this wonderful technology .

WHO IS YOUR GREATEST CAREER INFLUENCE & WHY?

I trained in 1983 completing my Diploma of Beauty Therapy, Electrolysis and Aroma Therapy at Eileen Lasar Academy Of Beauty in Sydney, my career took a huge leap forward after returning to study in 2011 at The Sydney Beauty & Dermal Institute. Ilse Taumberger the principal and now friend, was a great influence and inspiration to me, why, because she educates all her students to become the best at what they do. It wasn’t easy learning light therapies at my age after so many years of traditional Beauty Therapy but I embraced it and never looked back.

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Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

ABIA SALON MANAGER/ CO ORDINATOR OF THE YEAR

ELLA KING COVE SPA Ella King, ABIA Salon Manager of the Year owes her success she says to a wonderful team and her own advanced education: 10 years after completing her Diploma of Beauty Therapy, Ella completed a Diploma in Human Resource Management which has helped her understand more effective ways of leading a larger team.

HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN MANAGING THE BUSINESS AT COVE SPA?

I applied for the Management position at Cove Spa in August 2014 and after 4 weeks of comprehensive training I took over the role as the Spa Manager in September 2014. Even though I was hired in a Management position, I was still working occasionally on the floor to gain a good understanding of the wide variety of treatments that we offer and to grasp the high standard of each and every service that we have.

WHAT WOULD YOU SAY YOUR STYLE OF MANAGEMENT IS?

If I had to choose a category for my management

style, coaching would probably be the closest, but in saying that, I don’t think that I have just one style of managing.

Having been in this industry for over 14 years I have learnt that one single style of working/ managing people is not very effective.

DID YOU DO ANY FORMAL MANAGEMENT TRAINING?

Studying business gave me insight into the bigger picture of running a successful business, so now I 2016 ABIA Salon Manager of the Year - Ella King, Cove take into consideration Spa with Ben Skeggs, Spectrum Science Beauty not only a Managers point of view, but I also understand Expo and were inspired by some new products my employers position and our staff that we found such as the Warpaint (charcoal member’s opinions with a greater teeth whitener). appreciation.

On the Medispa side of things we are very ARE YOU STILL A HANDS proud to be partnered with the Inskin team and are excited by the new combination therapies ON THERAPIST? currently being taught with the Dermapen3. We As Cove Spa is such a busy establishment are creating some serious skin results for clients to Manage, I am no longer operating in the treatment rooms. Sometimes I miss which is very exciting and being taught by the ABIA Educator of the Year, Andrew Christie is the ‘hands on’ aspect, but as front of pretty inspiring stuff! house, I still get to be involved and will occasionally ‘fill in’ if a staff member falls ill unexpectedly.

ANY INTRODUCTIONS FOR COVE SPA COMING UP?

We thoroughly enjoyed our recent trip to the Sydney International Spa and Beauty 20

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“We have a very diverse team and love to share ideas and learn from each other” Ella King

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Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

ABIA Business Director/Owner of the Year ABIA Best Beauty Salon (4 Or Less Rooms)

THE TEMPLE SKINCARE RENE THORPE

“I believe you need to have a cause greater than you to keep you driven” Rene Thorpe 2016 Best Salon of the Year 4 Treatment rooms or less - The Temple Skincare with Marie-Enne Cocciolone Inskincosmedics (centre next to Rene)

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Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

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2016 ABIA Business Director of the Year - Rene Thorpe with Tony Hasham, Mayerling Skincare

WERE YOU SURPRISED AT THE AWARD THIS YEAR?

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Owner of The Temple Skincare, Rene Thorpe (recently married and now Rene Herald), is motivated by doing what she loves which has certainly brought her success with the business taking out the award for Salon of the Year with less than 4 rooms and also the coveted Business Director of the year for herself! The Temple Skincare is where advanced skin treatments truly do meet holistic care.

BUSINESS SIDE?

Oh my goodness I was surprised. This was the first time I had entered the ABIA awards and I knew it was like the prestigious Logies for our industry, hence everyone we were finalists along side with, where great businesses. I hadn’t expected to win anything let alone both categories.

I know lots of business mentors and coaches will tell you to only work ‘on’ your business and not ‘in’ your business, but I came a beauty therapist because I LOVE what I do so I will never completely step off the floor.

Everyone that has their own business knows it never really stops so you seem like you are working on your business every minute of every day in some capaci-ty or another.

WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR GREATEST MOTIVATION TO REACH THIS BUSINESS LEVEL?

WHO ARE YOUR INFLUENCES, PROFESSIONAL OR PERSONAL?

I have a passion for what I do and a strong desire to touch the lives of each and every client that walks in our doors. Whether it be empowering them with their best skin yet through our medispa offerings, or whether it is balancing their emotions or touching their soul through a spa ritual.

My Mum is my hero… she is a perfect example of what a good human being should be like. She is loving, kind, generous and hard working. Mum also helps us out with the front desk and client liaison role. Her genuine love and care for every clients that comes through our door is something that can not be taught. She truly cares for them all.

HOW MUCH TIME DO YOU SPEND IN YOUR SALON ON THE

ANY EXCITING PLANS FOR THE

BUSINESS COMING UP?

Well you just never know when an opportunity come knocking so theres sure to be some surprises along the way, but for now the plan is to expand the current Temple Skincare & Spa premises that we have as we are almost at capacity a lot of the time. We will put plans into council later in the year so lets hope it smooth sailing for that.

Business Director/Owner of the Year SPONOSRED BY

Business Director/Owner of the Year SPONOSRED BY

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ABIA Best Customer Care

COVE SPA

Jocelyn Derecourt appreciates how hard her staff work and believes that thier annual journey to Sydney’s ‘night of nights’ have become the highlight of their year! “The ABIA’s bring so much excitement and joy to us all and it is a fantastic opportunity to meet up with other like minded people!”

“The ABIA’s are an awesome opportunity for any individual or team to be nationally recognised for a job well done in an industry that requires you to give all of yourself every day and be totally selfless” Jocelyn Derecourt 2016 ABIA Customer Care - Jocelyn Derecourt, Cove Spa with Paul Schofiled, Brisbane School of Beauty

WHAT MOTIVATED YOU TO ENTER THE AWARDS AGAIN THIS YEAR?

There is a real buzz at the Spa during August, our guests love to feel involved in the process, offering their support, best wishes, congratulations, even flowers and gifts. Some excited guests even came to us earlier in the year with beautiful testimonials especially for ABIA without even being asked! How’s that for guest training!! We really don’t need anymore motivation!

WHAT IS YOUR POINT OF DIFFERENCE WITH YOUR CUSTOMER CARE?

We really care whole heartedly about our customers. Cove is more than just a business, it is a safe, peaceful sanctuary for both staff and guests. We are warm, welcoming and listen with genuine interest, as well as deliver the ultimate service with expert skill. Even when it comes to the most challenging guests, (we all get them 24

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occasionally) I implore my staff to challenge themselves to completely turn them around by the end of their treatment.

WHAT IS YOUR SPLIT OF BUSINESS BETWEEN REGULAR CLIENTS AND NEW CLIENTS COMING TO THE SALON?

65% regulars, 35% newbies. South Perth is a beautiful suburb only 5 minutes from the CBD so while we are very popular within our suburb and surrounds, our reach extends to city hotels and local short term apartments. Many of our guests also live in the country but have weekenders in the area and look forward to their Cove visits in between country stints.

IS YOUR CUSTOMER CARE A LARGE PART OF THE TRAINING FOR YOUR TEAM

I personally provide orientation training to all new staff and yes it is a big part of their induction. Both my awesome Asst Manager and talented Head

Therapist follow up with quality control usually 3 months after this staff induction. I was trained 20+ years ago by a very successful woman who was a consummate professional herself and everything she taught resonated deep within me.

ARE THERE PLANS TO ENTER THE AWARDS AGAIN NEXT YEAR?

I write all my own submissions and so I won’t lie, it is a lot of work and expense travelling from Perth. And I do believe thinking during those late nights on the computer that we might take a break next year. However, by the end of this trip everyone was on such a high and it reminded me just how worthwhile it is!

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Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

ABIA Best Tanning Salon/Service

NABU BRONZING BAR NABU Bronzing Bar have worked tirelessly to offer a world class tanning service and their efforts have rewarded them with Best Tanning Salon/Service for 2016. At NABU the Vision is “To lift the spirit of humanity through She.” Their mission is to boost selfesteem and confidence in women, and help reduce the number of lives affected by skin cancer through their world class Bronzing services.

2016 ABIA Best Tanning Salon of the Year Nabu Bronzing Bar with Lea Taylor, Naked Tan

“It is such an honour to be named the 2016 Winner – Australian Beauty Industry Award – Spray Tanning Salon of the Year.”

Blair Petiquin

Beauty Biz spoke to Director, Blair Petiquin

WHAT DOES THIS AWARD MEAN TO YOUR BUSINESS?

Receiving this award has given us a platform to further extend our message. It is my strongest belief that people do not buy what you do, they buy why you do it.

My passion for the tanning industry was born from a special bond with my sister who suffers from an acute case of vitiligo. A spray tan gives her an instant confidence boost. Multiple family members have also been affected by skin cancers, so having an alternative way to achieve that all over glow always excited me.

WHAT TANNING BRANDS DO YOU USE IN SALON?

At NABU we carry brands from all over the world.

We have a tailored approach to how we select our clients tan solution.

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During a colour consultation our highly trained skin finishing expert will create the desired colour from a possible 100 different shades of tan & will also custom blend for our clients specific needs.

Their natural skin tone is where we begin, their desired shade of bronze is where we will take them.

WHAT IS YOUR MOST POPULAR TANNING SERVICE?

Our most popular service is the Deluxe Spray Tan – clients can ace their base with our signature service. It is a two stage process that begins with an application of our body primer to hydrate and prepare the skin by balancing the skins PH levels, followed by a flawless colour application.

HAVE YOU SEEN AN INCREASE IN TANNING SERVICES IN THE LAST COUPLE OF YEAR?

Yes we absolutely have seen an increase in tanning services. I believe this is due to

better products on the market and increased awareness of the nasty effects of UV rays. The sunless tanning industry for us is really showing steady growth, especially since tanning beds were banned in Australia.

DO YOU THINK THE TANNING INDUSTRY IS MORE COMPETITIVE NOW

The tanning industry definitely is still in growth and as a result we have seen much more ‘competition’ for both the product and the service side of the industry. However, it is my belief that healthy competition is a great thing.

SPONOSRED BY

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Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

ABIA Best Marketing of the Year

KETURAH DAY SPA 2016 Best Marketing Keturay Day Spa with Peta Friend, Biodroga

“We feel any industry award is an absolute honour to win and we accept them with absolute pride and appreciation” Kim Stergiou

Kim and Jemma Stergiou and the team at Keturah Day Spa have continued to raise the standard and consistency of day spa marketing in 2016 with the addition of digital marketing strategies and content, assisting in them taking out the Best Marketing Award again.

WHAT IS THE SECRET TO THE CONSISTENCY OF YOUR MARKETING?

We feel marketing consistency is very important for Brand awareness all year round so we budget accordingly to invest within this area of the business. Keturah advertise on Radio & TV and within Print for the full calendar year. All these platforms are expensive but also very valuable to reach consumers.

WAS THERE ANYTHING NEW THAT YOU INTRODUCED THIS YEAR MARKETING WISE?

We have found that interesting and relevant database marketing is key as well as current and interesting social media marketing. The digital space is growing very fast so we have plans to 28

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spend more time and invest more money within this area as well as trying new concepts with measurements. These areas are forever growing and are a big opportunity moving forward.

being the face’s of our business which is also a crucial part of the Keturah Group our staff are also part of the complete plan at execution to our loyal clients.

ARE YOU FINDING PLATFORMS LIKE INSTAGRAM ARE ASSISTING WITH MARKETING THE SPA’S?

HOW DOES THIS AWARD IMPACT YOUR BUSINESS?

Defiantly a huge growth area and is continuing to grow at a very fast pace. This is most certainly a focus area for us moving forward as we do not want to behind the game in this area.

ARE YOUR STAFF INTEGRAL WITH THE MARKETING?

Absolutely our staff are involved in all our digital marketing strategies and content. As well as

Keturah are very proud to promote our awards within our spa’s and within our marketing. It is also is a nice compliment to receive an award on behalf of all our loyal clients, staff and suppliers.

SPONOSRED BY

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Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

ABIA Educator of the Year Individual

ANDREW CHRISTIE

For the past year Andrew Christie has been conquering the global market with his various education programmes. He has been fortunate enough to train over 15,000 aesthetic practitioners across 37 countries in the last 12 months alone. Its been an exciting year relocating from Melbourne to Paris and now taking out the ABIA Educator of the Year Individual Award.

HOW DO YOU FEEL ABOUT WINNING THIS AWARD?

I am truly honoured to be recognised by the ABIAs and my peers. We cannot become stagnant as professionals. In order to grow, we must be open to new ideas and concepts to feed our inspiration and passion for what we do.

WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR MOTIVATION THIS YEAR AND HAS THERE BEEN ANYTHING YOU HAVE BEEN WORKING TOWARDS?

My motivation is always to inspire, educate and motivate industry professionals to become

2016 Best Educator (Individual) - Andrew Christie with Gay Wardle, MDA

powerhouses of knowledge. I have been working towards the fusion of technical and practical information with sales and consumer psychology. In order for education to have value, it must be profitable and its results measurable.

ARE THERE ANY PROFESSIONALS THAT INFLUENCE YOUR WORK?

I thank those who saw my potential and granted me opportunities early on in my career. I also thank those who continue to inspire me in my thirst for knowledge and education. My mentors have always re-inforced that education is a journey and not a destination.

WHAT ARE YOUR PLANS FOR 2017?

I look forward to the continued growth of Lipservice Consulting into the international dermatology, aesthetic medicine and clinical beauty markets. By the end of 2017, in conjunction with my partners such as Dermapenworld, my education will have infiltrated over 63 countries. I have been lucky enough to be invited as a keynote speaker at some of the world’s largest industry congresses including AMEC (Paris), CCR (London), MBC (Zagreb), NCD (Bucharest) and SAAAD (Johannesburg) over the next year.

“This award is a testament to the value of continued learning and professional development” Andrew Christie experience that grabs and holds attention. You could be the smartest person in the world, but if you cannot present your information in a way that is relatable, exciting and inspirational, what value does it hold? I believe educator must also be a performer who delivers the technicality and preciseness of a Wagner opera with the showmanship of a rockstar. Be intellectual but also be approachable, flexible and entertaining.

SPONOSRED BY

ADVICE FOR UP AND COMING EDUCATORS?

Never stop listening and learning yourself.

Education must also be interesting Beauty Biz Year 9 Issue 5

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ABIA Hall Of Fame ABIA Education Organisation Of The Year

CAMERON-JANE THOMAS CAMERON JANE MAKE UP DESIGN The ABIA Awards brought more than one surprise for Cameron-Jane Thomas who was awarded with the ultimate accolade of being inducted into the Refectocil Hall of Fame, plus taking out the Education Organisation of the Year. “To receive such acknowledgment from the beauty industry is more than I could ever imagine” explained Cameron of the 2 awards presented to her at the gala evening, where she was supported by her amazing team.

2016 ABIA Hall of Fame Recipient Cameron-Jane Thomas (r) with Lee Blackett (l), Refectocil

“To watch our students learn their skills and grow into such great artists is an absolute honour” Cameron-Jane Thomas

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Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

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Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

2016 Best Educator (Organisation) Cameron Jane Thomas with Kellie Woodhead, mocha publishing on behalf of Karpati

“Tell me and I forget, show me and I remember, involve me and I understand” Cameron-Jane Thomas

HALL OF FAME

Cameron-Jane arrived on the beauty scene well equipped with 20 years’ experience and talents that ranged from working in fashion, TV and film, both behind and in front of the cameras as a model and an actress. As a hard working single mother, she founded her own business which today is known as one of the most well respected, educational academies of its kind. It is this business which has been awarded the Education Organisation of the Year in conjunction with her dynamic and hard working team.

Cameron-Jane is recognised by the industry for establishing Australia’s Elite Academy, opening a school and make-up store in Melbourne and having the pleasure of being involved in “Who needs Prince Charming”, an inspirational book to young women written

by Amanda Cole. As a make up artist she has headed and designed the make up for numerous short films and commercials working alongside a stellar list of known actors and celebrities.

She attributes her success to companies including MAC for their continuous support over the years and to her family and peers for their constant support and belief. “Anne Mckay for her amazing training skills and Dotti and Pat McGrath for always pushing the boundaries and my trainers” she explained.

And of courses a bit of relaxation time is a must “I am a bit of a home body, I do love a good movie night with popcorn, I love a long Sunday lunch with my friends….traveling to bali is my ultimate relaxation, hanging with my Bali family and supporting the Bali children.. oh and red wine!”.

EDUCATIONAL ORGANISATION OF THE YEAR

Cameron-Jane was the first person to start Master Makeup classes in Australia with Rae Morris which has catapulted her academy into the spotlight as one of the industry’s top make-up academies.

The academy has up to 100 graduates each year and uses the skills and talents of the industry’s top hair, make-up artists and specialists. The award winning business is responsible for the training of over 1500 students, playing an instrumental role not only in their education but in work experience and placement into the industry: Students and graduates work all over Sydney and indeed the world. “My amazing students drive myself and the team to continue doing the work we do”, she explained. “I have a close connection with all of them and support and follow their careers with love.”

Hall of Fame SPONOSRED BY

Education Organisation Of The Year SPONOSRED BY

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ABIA Salon Team Of The Year

MISS KIT

The winners of the award for Salon Team was taken out this year by Miss Kit salon who offer a fresh and fun approach to education and beauty in the South West of Victoria.

The business also provides professional, luxurious beauty and spa treatments.

2016 Best Salon Team, Miss Kit with sponsor, Shirley Piscina - Silk Oil of Morooco (second from far right)

“I believe our team focused culture at Miss Kit has been the key to our rapid success�

Jodi Leahy

Beauty Biz spoke to owner Jodi Leahy.

professionalism in running our busy salon.

WHAT MOTIVATED YOU TO ENTER THE AWARDS THIS YEAR?

WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENT ROLES IN YOUR TEAM?

Our salon is always striving for excellence and these awards certainly set the benchmark for excellence. I am always looking for ways to motivate and encourage my staff and entering these awards was certainly a great way to do that. I am proud of my team everyday and being able to have their strengths and ambition recognised has been truly amazing.

WHAT MAKES YOUR SALON TEAM AMAZING?

They are vibrant, positive and happy to be at work. They are all so different, with unique interests, passions and skills which makes us strong and well-equipped beauty team. Our staff are always motivated to reach targets, willing to take on responsibility and incredible 32

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We have an owner/salon director, a salon manager, a salon receptionist, 4 advanced beauty therapists, an accomplished nail technician, a senior hair stylists, a makeup artist, a school based trainee and a salon assistant at Miss Kit. 4 of our staff hold their Certificate IV in training and assessment also as we provide workplace training at Miss Kit

HOW DO YOU FIND NEW TEAM MEMBERS TO JOIN YOUR WONDERFUL TEAM?

Most of our staff have either done training or work placement with Miss Kit. We have also used Facebook to advertise our need for staff.

We thrive to be a fun vibrant workplace that people want to be part of out team.

ARE THERE PLANS TO ENTER THE AWARDS AGAIN NEXT YEAR?

We look forward to entering the awards again next year. Not only is it great to recognise the amazing talent and celebrate business excellence, but attending these awards was a great way to network with our industry. We met so many amazing people from the companies that sponsored these awards, to the talented therapists that work in the clinics. We had a fantastic time in the most beautiful setting. Thank you once again to Mocha Publishing and the amazing sponsors that make this event happen.

SPONOSRED BY

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Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

ABIA Special Recognition Award

BEAUTY ON LATROBE

Beauty on Latrobe were announced as the winners of the Inaugural ABIA Special Recognition Award in 2016. The award which is sponsored by Mocha Publishing celebrates winners who have overcome adversity in their business or have achieved something worthy of a special accolade.

“It was totally surreal. As soon as I realised we’d won I burst into tears.”

Clare Lamberth Beauty on Latrobe has operated in Paddington for over 20 years with owner, Clare Lamberth, at the helm since 2006.

During that time the salon has won many prestigious awards and accolades including Ultraceuticals National Clinic of the Year (2012 & 2016), Quest Business Achiever of the Year – Beauty Services (2009 & 2010) and more recent FINALISTS in the 2016 Australian Beauty Industry Awards for Salon of the Year, Team of the Year & Manager of the Year.

Beauty on Latrobe has endured many hardships in her lifetime including a fire in 2013 which saw the entire salon devastated and closed before re-opening in it current location 7 months later. The owner Clare Lamberth was heavily pregnant at the time, and is now a mum to 2 little ones, working in and developing a growing and successful business: A testament to the unwavering love & support of our amazing clients and the strength of our team of talented therapists. Clare shared some of her thoughts on the evening and the award..

2016 ABIA Special Recognition Award - Beauty on Latrobe with April Jones, Mocha Publishing

HOW DID YOU FEEL WINNING THIS AWARD?

It was totally surreal. As soon as I realised we’d won I burst into tears. I completely didn’t expect it. I felt humbled and honoured to be recognised by such a distinguished industry leader (Linda Woodhead & Mocha Publishing) in front of a room full of industry mentors and peers.

WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR GREATEST CHALLENGE IN THE LAST FEW YEARS?

Definitely juggling having 2 babies back to back while moving a business and rebuilding from scratch has been a big challenge, as well as juggling the right dynamic of my team & redefining who we are as a business and the new direction and vision I have for the future.

the love and support of our gorgeous clients, suppliers, family and industry mentors & friends.

ANY GREAT MENTORS?

Of course. I’m constantly inspired by the great leaders of our industry, who are carving the way for the direction of our industry. Florence Barrett Hill, Dr Geoffrey Heber, Dr Glen Calderhead, Business Guru Vanessa Main just to name a few.

PLANS FOR THE BUSINESS FOR THE NEXT 12 MONTHS?

This next 12 months will be our biggest in our 10 years in business. We will celebrate our 10th birthday, we’re expanding our brand portfolio and adding more services and working towards future business expansions!

SPONOSRED BY

WHO HAS CONTRIBUTED TO THIS AWARD?

This award recognises the collective work of my whole team over the last 3 years as well as

HAIR BIZ • BEAUTY BIZ • BARBER SHOP • HAIRBIZ FORUM • AHIA • ABIA • HOTSHOTS

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ABIA Day Spa of the Year

BODHI J Danny and Tania Taylor are still still pinching themselves over Bodhi J taking out the title of Best Day Spa 2016 at the ABIA’s! “We pride ourselves on our nurturing qualities and passion for the wellness industry so this is just fantastic” says Tania.

“This Award means everything to our business, not only for our guests but also our team” Tania Taylor

2016 Best Day Spa Bodhi J with Stene Marshall (r), Dermapenworld Beauty Biz spoke to Tania Taylor.

HOW ARE YOU FEELING ABOUT WINNING BEST DAY SPA? I could not be any happier, Danny and I are so thrilled and super proud of our incredible team taking out Best Day Spa. We put our heart, soul, love and passion into everything that we do.

HOW LONG HAS THE SPA BEEN IN OPERATION? Bodhi J is coming up to its 9th year since opening its doors. We recently opened our second location in April 2015.

WHAT IS YOUR MOST POPULAR 34

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TREATMENT?

Massage of all styles are hugely popular, however they are followed closely by the Australian Sodashi and Li’tya facials we offer. Our clients join us on a journey of beauty, wellness and rejuvenation experiencing the magic of nature for the care of your face and body. We provide 100% natural and organic skin care solutions as well as indulgent body treatments that will leave you with a sense of inner peace.

HAVE YOU ENTERED MANY AWARDS FOR THE SPA? We have entered a number of awards, all of which we have done well in. Last year alone we were awarded Sodashi Spa of the Year as well as Li’Tya Most Improved Spa and Li’Tya Therapist

of the Year. We also were short listed in the Telstra Awards Medi-um Business category.

WHAT DOES THIS AWARD MEAN TO YOUR BUSINESS?

Who doesn’t want to utilise the services of an award winning business? It’s also important that our team’s hard work and passion is recognised and an award such as this certainly gives the team a sense of pride. At Bodhi J we are passionate about providing exceptional, consistent and industry leading care and service to each guest and strive to surpass any previous spa experience – every single time.

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by

All Colour Tattoo Removal Removes all ink colours More effective Less pain than laser Safer methods

For more information contact us at t: 1300 668 755 e: info@dermapenworld.com w: dermapenworld.com Or your local INSKIN COSMEDICS BDM

NEW PRODUCT LAUNCH!

ABIA ABIA ABIA ABIA ABIA ABIA

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

ABIA Best Beauty Salon (5 Or More Rooms)

SIMPLY ELEGANT 2016 ABIA Best Beauty Salon of the Year 5 Treatment roms or more, Simply Elegant (r) with Liliane Caron, caronlab

Cherie Tippett and the team at Simply Elegant agree that being In business they can never stand still! This year they have attributed their win on focused client care, education and ensuring that they stay ahead of the industry with the latest technology.

HOW ARE YOU FEELING ABOUT THE WIN THIS YEAR?

This year there was a lot more salons entering and the amount of finalists increased. When Simply Elegant was announced as Best Beauty Salon (5 treatment rooms or more) we felt extremely proud and very grateful.

WHAT HAS BEEN PART OF YOUR DEVELOPMENT THIS YEAR IN SALON?

Client care - consistency is key. We have invested a lot of time in staff training to ensure each and every treatment is the same every time a Client visits’. We are also always finding

ways to enhance our clients experience so they always look forward to their appointment.Also education and training - We ensure our Therapist have all the education and advance training they need to be today’s leading Therapists.

WHAT DO YOU CREDIT AS BEING THE REASON FOR YOUR CONTINUED SUCCESS AS A LEADING SALON?

“We are all extremely excited. To win Best Beauty Salon two years in a row is a complete honour” Cherie Tippett

We love our clients at Simply Elegant. We respect them and never take them for granted. We are 100% prepared for each and every client before they arrive. On arrival clients are taken through to their own locker which has their name on it and there preferred drink is waiting for them in our relaxation area. This ensures our clients know they are appreciated and we are ready to spoil them. Once they come into Gold Class our clients can also choose the music they wish to listen to. We have tried to personalise each and every Clients experience at Simply Elegant to make it all out them.

WHAT IS THE MOST POPULAR TREATMENT IN SALON?

Our Medi Spa treatments are definitely the most popular. Our skin tightening treat-ment achieves amazing results. Lots of our Clients become addicted and once their initial treatment program is complete they then come in for their monthly maintenance treatment.

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HOW IS THE TEAM FEELING ABOUT THE WIN?

They are so happy and excited. Everyone works very hard everyday and to be apart of a winning team is a wonderful achievement. Our team is very committed and dedicated and to win Best Beauty Salon (5 treatment rooms or more) is an amazing accolade for the entire team.

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Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

ABIA Wholesaler of the Year

THE BEAUTY WAREHOUSE The Beauty Warehouse started their journey over 12 years ago with the objective to become Australia’s leading wholesaler for salon professionals. They have worked extremely hard since then to build their business, and believe that one of the main reasons for their success has been remaining true to their core values.

2016 National Wholesaler of the Year the Beauty Warehouse with Nina Barbara, Beauty Biz Magazine

“Our team of passionate hard-working staff at Beauty Warehouse have been humbled, excited and honored to receive the ABIA award Australian wholesaler of the year”.

Hayette Hasham Beauty Biz spoke to owners, Christian and Hayette Hasham.

HOW IS THE TEAM FEELING ABOUT THE WIN THIS YEAR? We have been heartened by the response from our many customers and suppliers and these positive and congratulatory remarks will only inspire us to continue to work harder and further improve our service standards.

HOW MANY BRANCHES DO YOU HAVE IN AUSTRALIA? We have five hair/beauty wholesale showrooms across Sydney and NSW regional areas designed to provide convenient cash & carry shopping. Our head office at Mortdale also dispatches phone/internet orders quickly and efficiently nationwide.

WHAT DO YOU CREDIT AS BEING THE REASON FOR YOUR

CONTINUED SUCCESS AS A WHOLESALER?

We have done our very best to treat our customers, staff and suppliers in a fair, respectful and professional manner. We have also worked hard to help support and nurture the integrity of the salon professional industry by maintaining our trade only policy, by respecting the salon brands that we represent and only sourcing them from the authorised Australian distributor or manufacturer.

WHAT ARE YOUR BEST SELLING BRANDS/PRODUCTS?

We have built up an impressive portfolio of 120 salon brands including over 10,000 products covering all categories eg waxing, tanning, nails, hair, eyelash tint-ing/extensions/lifting, skincare, beauty supplies, salon essentials, disposables and furniture & equipment. The Beauty Warehouse has become the go to destination for leading salon brands combined with friendly

professional advice and ongoing educational workshops. Some of the leading salon brands we stock include CND Shellac and Vinylux, OPI, Morgan Taylor, Lycon, Caronlab, Mancine Cosmetics, Naked tan, Moroccan Tan, Black Magic, Vani-T, Refectocil, Belmacil, Elleebana, Ardell, AminoGenesis, Sterex plus many more.

ANY NEW PLANS FOR THE BRAND THIS COMING YEAR?

We are always researching the market both locally and internationally to stay in touch with the latest product innovations. We will also continue to work closely with our major suppliers to facilitate the launch and introduction of new products and brands into the Australian marketplace.

SPONOSRED BY

Beauty Biz Beauty Biz Year 9 Issue 5

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ABIA ABIA ABIA ABIA ABIA ABIA

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

Australian Beauty Industry Awards 2016

ABIA Make up Artist of the Year

ALANA MEVISSEN For the past two years Alana Mevissen has thought about entering the awards but something kept holding her back, and she just wasn’t ready. She didn’t think that she was experienced enough or mentally ready to enter. This year, there was no way she wasn’t completing her entry - Alana was ready!

2016 ABIA MUA of the Year Alana Mevissen with Rob Tamburro, Bodyography

“My fellow finalists are all awesome artists and having my name up there with theirs was amazing. Winning was extraordinary!”

Alana Mevissen WHAT WAS THE INFLUENCE BEHIND THE ENTRY FOR THIS AWARD

WHAT DOES THIS AWARD MEAN TO YOUR BUSINESS

HOW DID YOU FEEL WINNING THE AWARD WITH SUCH AMAZING COMPETITION

HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN IN THE INDUSTRY?

My work had continued to grow and had been constant and consistent and I felt like I could tackle a good range of work. My win last year in the Face2Face Awards at the Beauty Expo also gave me the confidence to enter.

I didn’t expect to win, I just wanted to be a finalist.

Then, as the time got closer I wanted to win but certainly didn’t think I would!

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I’m hoping that more brands and creatives are aware of me now and that I have an opportunity to work with a large range of these people in the near future. It also means my business has the opportunity to continue to grow and move upwards.

I studied hair and makeup way back in 1996. On completion of my course, I held a full-time job and did makeup “on the side”. It wasn’t until 2008, when things shifted and I couldn’t imagine doing any other job, that I really started my career as a Makeup Artist.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE KIND OF STYLING AND MAKE UP TO WORK ON?

What makes this job so cool is that it is never boring. I love being versatile enough to work on a beautiful bride, do commercial head shots, a beauty editorial and an e-commerce gig all in one week. However, beauty and fashion work does hold a special place in my heart.

SPONOSRED BY

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FEATURE

PURE SMILE

Teeth whitening is enjoying a resurgence in the beauty market, but this time it means business. Gone are the limited results and tricky applications, instead being replaced by dental standard treatments performed by highly trained technicians. One such company that are taking teeth tightening to a new level and higher professional standard in Australia is Pure Smile. We sat down and chatted with Qld based Veronika Galinec about the process, risks and results.

IS TEETH WHITENING A SAFE DENTAL PROCESS?

There are very many teeth whitening treatments, procedures and products available in the market today. The popularity of these treatments has however come with numerous concerns. Many people still have doubts on the safety of most teeth bleaching and whitening treatments, procedures and products out there. With this, it is much important to get some knowledge and understanding on each procedure.

The safety of teeth whitening can be attributed to many things, the most notable being poor medical standards when carrying out these procedures/treatments. There are also many sub-standard teeth whitening treatments and products on the market today. The answer to the question; ; is whitening your teeth a safe dental process, therefore depends on where you go for treatment, procedures and products.

This explains why it is important to seek professional advice and service from recognized teeth whitening services such as PureSmile.

With PureSmile, Teeth whitening is safe due to the following reasons; 1. PureSmile uses products proven to be 100% safe.

PureSmile uses peroxide-free products which are 100% natural with no side effects. These products have been tested and proven to be undoubtedly safe. It is important to note that many teeth whitening products cause health risks because they contain harmful chemicals.

We use effective, all natural products which have been fully tested and proven to be safe. Our products are custom made and FDA registered.

Our products also comply with EU standards thus you are assured of total safety.

2. PureSmile doesn’t offer treatment to everyone.

It is important to note that teeth whitening treatments and products aren’t safe for everyone, especially underage children (children below 14 years old) and pregnant or breast feeding 40

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mothers. Unlike many other teeth whitening services, we don’t expose our clients to harm by offering our services to everyone.The trained staff will check the total condition of your teeth. This could include the thickness of enamel, existing sensitivity, receding gums, tooth decay, restorations such as veneers, fillings and crowns, or some oral diseases.

3. We have a team of experienced teeth whitening professionals.

One of the main reasons why teeth whitening is risky is simply because some tooth whitening treatments aren’t administered by professionals. PureSmile has a team of highly skilled and experienced teeth whitening professionals who follow all procedures correctly, eliminating medical malpractice risks. We promote the best cosmetic dental care services in Sydney and we are passionate about your teeth being healthy and white.

In summary, teeth whitening is 100% safe when it is done by professionals such as those at PureSmile. With many over-the-counter treatments and products on the market today, it is always important to seek professional advice before trying any treatments, procedures and products at home.

HOW DOES TEETH WHITENING WORK?

You can whiten your teeth in many ways. For instance, you can use whitening toothpastes which remove stains on the surface of your teeth. This is one of the cheapest ways to whiten your teeth but is not very effective. You could also go for expensive options such as chemical whitening techniques. The question of how tooth whitening works therefore depends on the kind of whitening procedure used.

Our teeth whitening solution works in the following way1) First of all we administer an all-natural gel to your teeth. Unlike other services, ours is peroxide-free and 100% safe so it won’t damage your teeth in any way.

2) Secondly we place two mouthguards onto your teeth, leaving them there for 15 minutes.

3) Thirdly, after removing the mouthguards we apply our dental grade LED Lamp which will activate the whole whitening process.

4) Once we are finished, your teeth will become naturally whiter for up to 6 months.

OVER THE COUNTER PRODUCTS

One of the less effective methods of teeth whitening is using over-the-counter products.

There are many teeth whitening products readily available in chemists and supermarkets. These products include whitening gels, whitening strips and boil and bite tray applications. These products are the cheapest for whitening teeth i.e. costing between $10 and $45, some of which contain bleaching agents which remove stains.

These methods are not very effective.

CHEMICAL PROCEDURES

These methods utilise chemical and/or physical action to remove stains on the surface of teeth.

A good example of chemical procedures are whitening toothpastes which contain special abrasive polishing agents that remove stains during the teeth brushing process.

Basically, teeth whitening works differently depending on the method you choose. It is important to note that different methods differ in cost and effectiveness. For the best teeth whitening services in Sydney, Australia, feel free to visit our closest PureSmile Teeth Whitening Studio today.

IS THE TREATMENT SAFE?

Absolutely! Our products are PEROXIDE-FREE, all natural and have ZERO side effects. They are custom-made and registered with Food and Drug Administration in the USA, as well as fully compliant with EU standards.

HOW MANY SHADES WHITER?

This depends entirely on the person’s physiology.

Our customers regularly achieve results of up to 11 shades whiter; with the average improvement being 6-8 shades. It is a natural whitening product that will get your teeth to their natural colour.

HOW LONG WILL MY RESULTS LAST?

Most people find they like to touch up their whitening every 6-9 months, depending on the normal amount of stains you have on your enamel as well as your eating and drinking habits. Your results will last longer if you refrain from things such as coffee, tea and smoking.

You might as well use enamel booster to retain the teeth whitening result even better. For more questions call us prior to the treatment.

IS THERE ANYONE THE TREATMENT IS NOT SUITABLE FOR?

Our treatments are not suitable for pregnant or breastfeeding women and children under the age

of 14.

HOW LONG DOES THE TREATMENT TAKE?

Each treatment varies in time from 15-60 minutes. Our basic package takes 15 minutes and our platinum package takes 60 minutes.

DOES TREATMENT FIX TETRACYCLINE STAINS?

Our treatment can be effective on stains caused by the antibiotic tetracycline. Our treatment will be more effective if the stains are not too deep within the teeth. Tetracycline stains are often one of the more difficult stains to remove but our team of professionals will be able to assist and advise you on the best way to treat your tetracycline stains.

DOES TREATMENT FIX STAINS FROM SMOKING?

Yes. Although stains from smoking can often be slightly more difficult to remove, our treatment is effective for most stains caused by smoking. Our team of professionals will be able to assist and advise you on the best way to treat stains caused by smoking

HOW QUICKLY WILL THE RESULTS OCCUR?

Your teeth will be whiter within one hour of treatment so if you have an important meeting or function and you have left it to the last minute, our treatment is perfect for you

ARE THERE ANY SIDE EFFECTS? No, there are no side effects when getting your teeth whitened at PureSmile as our products are all natural. The only side effect you will have is whiter teeth for 6-9 months.

HOW CAN I RETAIN MY RESULTS?

To keep your teeth whiter and healthier for longer after our treatment, we recommend the following: clean your teeth twice daily, floss often and drink plenty of water. We recommend you also avoid the following- coffee, black tea, red wines and smoking Qld based Veronika Galinec is a teeth whitening expert with Pure Smile and is the owner of Pure Smile Garden City, Mt. Gravatt in Queensland. www.puresmile.com.au Beauty Biz Year 9 Issue 5

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FEATURE

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Oncology Aesthetics

HAIR REMOVAL FOR THE CLIENT WITH CANCER Today involves the increasing popularity of body modification, including partial or complete removal of body hair. The methods used to remove body hair include shaving, clipping, waxing, epilation, depilatory creams, laser hair removal, electrolysis, sugaring and threading. Many of these methods cause trauma that can provide an entry point for infection. And yet, for someone diagnosed with cancer, hair removal typically takes a back step while treatment for cancer takes precedence.

If a spa professional is not educated to work with people that are living with cancer, a simple misjudgement can become unsightly and can cause harm.

Today, with improved procedures and products for hair removal two keys issues still exist: pain and trauma by heat, friction or both. So, when dealing with your client that is living with cancer, a lot more thought needs to be put into these hair removal services.

VIRUSES

Several viruses are linked with cancer in humans. Our growing knowledge of the role of viruses as a cause of cancer has led to the development of vaccines to help prevent certain human cancers. These vaccines can only protect against infections if they are given before the person is exposed to the cancer-promoting virus.

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Human papilloma viruses (HPVs) are a group of more than 150 related viruses. They are called papilloma viruses because some of them cause papillomas, which are more commonly known as warts. Some types of HPV only grow in skin, while others grow in mucous membranes such as the mouth, throat, or vagina. HPV has been shown to reside on pubic and perianal hairs.

Traumatic hair removal in these areas might result in an infection and subsequent clinical manifestation of HPV. All types of HPV are spread by contact (touch) and are highly contagious. Awareness about the possibility of spread of cutaneous warts (caused by the human papilloma virus) following temporary hair removal methods, such as shaving, waxing, threading, and using depilatory creams, needs to be taken seriously so any

person providing a service of hair removal can practice safety measures.

SURGERY

When a person is having a surgical procedure in an area of the body that is covered with hair, patients are urged to leave the area of their surgery to the medical team who can complete the task effectively with sterilized clippers.

PROFESSIONAL SERVICES

If waxing is preferred the client should check with medical team prior to surgery regarding their policies regarding hair removal and how long prior to surgery this must be done. Any burns or skin removal can create a sore, hence an infection risk. If waxing is a first time option for the client they need to take into consideration

possible pain and irritation.

Any adverse reactions can cause possible cancellation of the surgery.

TWEEZING

Tweezing can be time consuming so it is relatively safe if done correctly without causing any broken skin. Tweezers need to be well sanitized.

HOME CARE

Shaving can cause tiny cuts and abrasions and where skin is damaged, bacteria can grow and multiply which can then infect the nearby surgical site. A blade that has not been sterilised also creates a risk by exposing the skin near the surgery site to harmful bacteria. Shaving can also cause folliculitis, an infection in the hair follicle usually caused by the bacteria Staphylococcus (staph) or a fungus.

Depilatories can also irritate the skin so using this cream would not be a good idea prior to surgery if this have never been used before.

It is, however, recommended that patients shower or bath the day before or on the day of surgery to ensure the skin around the incision site is as clean as possible to prevent any surgical site infections.

Obviously serious infections of surgical wounds can extend a hospital stay, cause long-term disability and even life-threatening conditions.

CHEMOTHERAPY

Not all chemotherapy drugs cause hair loss.

Some cause hair thinning or partial hair loss.

From a psychological standpoint, hair loss is one of the most feared side effects to treatment so be aware hair loss is not a welcome side effect for many. Patients undergoing chemotherapy may have a weakened immune system which implies they are not ideal candidates for hair removal treatments.

PROFESSIONAL SERVICES

Waxing can be extremely painful for someone who is not feeling well during chemotherapy. It may hurt the client to have the hair pulled from the root, and the wax also adheres to their skin, taking skin cells with it as it’s removed. While that is a benefit for people with no health challenges, the client with a sensitive, fragile skin affected by chemotherapy drugs may get more irritation and inflammation. This can be exacerbated if the client has a reaction to the chemicals in the wax, and, if the wax used is too hot, there’s also a risk of burning the skin. If the skin is not held taut when pulling the wax strips off, bruising may occur. Waxing would be high risk for the neutropenic and/or thrombocytopenic client.

Also remember, another added skin side effect for this client is dry skin. If the skin is not properly hydrated, it could be more easily irritated and the risk for tearing the skin is higher.

The melanocytes can also be affected by certain toxic chemotherapy agents, and they can either produce hyperpigmentation, or they can trigger hypopigmentation. Medical tape when pulled off the skin can produce hyperpigmentation, so what do you think waxing can produce? Any aggressive wax formulations can ignite the melanocyte activity through cellular trauma, however, the melanocytes are already being affected by chemotherapy agent(s).

Sun protection is absolutely necessary post waxing services.

Tweezing uses no chemicals that touch the skin, so it’s relatively safe. Removing hair from the root lasts about the same amount of time as waxing.

Removing each hair individually using tweezers can be time consuming, and it may be the only option if the skin is experiencing side effects like itching, burning, peeling or stinging from other options. When tweezing, ensure the skin is held taut, or you may accidently grab the skin, causing broken skin.

HORMONE

Aside from the loss of elasticity, skin thinning and dryness, vellus hair on the face becomes a visible problem for women on hormone therapy drugs. Unwanted facial hair is very common in menopausal women. An increase in facial/body hair is called hypertrichosis.

This group of drugs may not as many adverse reactions to hair removal, however, it must be noted that they can be administered in conjunction with chemotherapy.

“When dealing with RADIATION THERAPY your client that is living with cancer, a lot more thought needs to be put into these hair removal services.”

Radiation therapy will generally cause hair loss to the body part that is being treated therefore the area affected is localised. For example, if the client’s arm was treated with radiation, they may lose hair on their arm, but the hair on their head would not be affected by radiation therapy.

Hair loss may be temporary or permanent, depending on the total amount of radiation received and other treatments such as chemotherapy. When hair loss is temporary, it will likely re-grow within 3 to 6 months after treatment is complete. The re-growth of hair is often thinner or of a different texture.

HOME CARE

Shaving brings about the same risks mentioned above.The chemicals in a depilatory cream may irritate the skin causing burning, redness, inflammation, blisters, peeling, or a rash, especially if the cream is left on too long. The smell of these products can be quite offensive to a person undergoing chemotherapy.

After completing chemotherapy, some women can experience unwanted facial hair due to the menopause ‘kick in’. This hair can occur approximately one month after the last chemotherapy treatment. What is interesting sometimes this resolves on it’s own, other times the person actually gets the hair removed professionally or they do it themselves with an electric razor. Depilatories can irritate the skin as it may be too soon after completion of chemotherapy.

BIOLOGICAL THERAPY

A group of biological therapy drugs such as: Cetuximab (Erbitux), Erlotinib (Tarceva), Gefitinib (Iressa) and Panitumumab (Vectibix) can cause hair loss on scalp; yet increased hair on face and eyelashes. Vandetanib (Caprelsa) can cause hair loss over the entire scalp and reduced hair on legs or arms; can increase the growth and curling of the eyelashes and eyebrows, and increase facial hair growth.

These changes don’t usually happen right away, but they may be noticed as treatment continues.

This group of drugs may not as many adverse reactions to hair removal, however, it must be noted that they can be administered in conjunction with chemotherapy.

PROFESSIONAL SERVICES

Waxing Is not recommended as it can irritate a sensitive skin and may be a cause for infection.

Tweezing is relatively safe if tweezers have no sharp edges. Shaving could also present with a risk for infection, however, an electric razor would be a better option to remove any new or increased hair growth. Depilatories may cause a reaction to the skin.

Over time, a person who has undergoing external beam radiation therapy may experience fibrosis in the area of radiation. Fibrosis is the formation of excess fibrous connective tissue in an organ or tissue in a reparative or reactive process. This can be a reactive, benign, or pathological state.

In response to injury, this is called scarring.

In the case of fibrosis, hair is unable to grow through the hardened skin. This can lead to a cessation of hair production and the death of hair follicles.

OTHER PRECAUTIONS

The client who is taking steroid medication as part of cancer treatment may experience thin or fragile skin which can bruise and tear which may lead to infection. Any hair removal services that could cause tearing of the skin and create a risk for infection should not be done whilst using such medication, and not until three months after completing the treatment or when the skin has recovered somewhat to its ‘new normal’.

Oncology Esthetics expert and author, Morag Currin saw a gap in the circle of care in the world of cancer where patients are psychologically devastated by both inward and outward side effects of the disease, and treatment. Her mission is to continue to build awareness and a positive outcome for this modality in both the spa, medical and breast cancer community. For further information: www.oti-oncologytraining.com References: Sonthalia Sidharth, MD, DNB, MNAMS,a Arora Rahul, MD,b and Sarkar Rashmi, MD, MNAMS, FAADc, Cosmetic Warts, Pseudo-Koebnerization of Warts after Cosmetic Procedures for Hair Removal, J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2015 Jul; 8(7): 52–56.

PMCID: PMC4509587 Mark G. Kirchhof, MD PhD, Sheila Au, MD, Brazilian waxing and human papillomavirus: a case of acquired epidermodysplasia verruciformis, CMAJ February 3, 2015 vol. 187 no. 2 First published September 2, 2014, doi: 10.1503/cmaj.140198 Durdu M, Ilkit M. First step in the differential diagnosis of folliculitis: cytology. Crit Rev Microbiol. 2013 Feb;39(1):9-25. doi: 10.3109/1040841X.2012.682051. Epub 2012 May 29. Review.

PubMed PMID: 22639852.

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PROFILE

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MISS UNIVERSE WINNER

NEW FACE OF BODYOGRAPHY & SUMITA AUSTRALIA

Congratulations to the 2016 Miss Universe winner Caris Tiivel from Western Australia.

A big shout out to the Bodyography creative team headed by Alarna Bell from Kolorz N Klawz who delivered the looks for all 30 amazing women. The exposure to the media and brand presence has been huge for Bodyography and Sumita alike, with Caris having a bright career ahead of her. You will be seeing a lot more of Caris as she now becomes the face and brand ambassador of Bodyography & Sumita Australia.

We spoke to owner Rob Tamburro about the event.

HOW WAS BODYOGRAPHY INVOLVED IN 2016 MISS UNIVERSE?

Bodyography was involved throughout the whole journey of Miss Universe. From registration to state finals ending with the national final. The campaign commenced with Miss Westcoast in WA which ultimately become the state final for WA. This was at the same time that Pink Tank and Troy Barbagallo had taken over the rights to Miss Universe Australia. Bodyography provided gift prizes to all the entrants as well makeup teams at al the State and National finals. We appointed Alarna Bell from Kolorz N Klawz as our creative director for the project who selected the team who would work on the Miss Universe girls.

Part of this commitment also meant that Alarna travelled to Bali with the girls and incorporated beauty training and application for the national finalists.

WHAT DID THE BODYOGRAPHY TEAM DO FOR THE EVENT?

The team was basically on hand throughout the entire campaign providing the makeup for all the events leading up to the national final. This meant searching for our best artists as it could be the difference between a win and runner up for one of these girls. A team of 15 artists made up the team that worked on the girls back stage Alarna Bell from Kolorz N Klawz headed the team. It must have been a huge undertaking.

HOW LONG DID THE EVENT GO FOR? AND WHAT WAS INVOLVED?

It truly was however we had the best person on the job in Alarna. Her professionalism and commitment to the girls and event organisors was amazing. Alarna really made our involvement a 44

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lot more less stressful. She created an amazing makeup team that just got the job done, great artists but also professional and most of all on time. This meant a lot of travelling for Alarna also as she attended each state final as well as Bali which a lot of the filming for the up and coming documentary was shot.

WHAT HAS BEEN THE EXPOSURE FOR BODYOGRAPHY AND SUMITA?

The exposure has been amazing with both brands receiving national exposure. As well as your traditional print and TV media , we also basically have 72 girls that were working for us on a social media level. This was aided by the implantation of MyMiss Tv and also the MYmiss app on itunes. The social media coverage we received and continue to receive has been amazing and people have watched these girls throughout their whole journey. Exposure will continue over the next few months as Caris prepares for the World Final in which I believe Caris Is a top 5 contender that can stand side by side with the likes of Venezuela, Colombia and Brasil. This will be held in January 2017 in the Philippines so no doubt you will see much more of Caris between now and then in the media.

We will also be working on our own marketing campaign with Caris in the coming months as she becomes our brand ambassador for both Bodyography and Sumita.

CARIS TIIVEL IS THE 2016 MISS UNIVERSE WINNER, WHAT ATTRIBUTES DO YOU THINK GOT HER THE TITLE?

Of course first up we have to say her beauty as

this is overall a beauty pageant, (as much as we don’t like to use the pageant word) . But most definitely her attributes includes just a beautiful warm personality and her striking resemblance to a young Miranda Kerr. There is still a lot of work and training between now and January but we believe she has all the qualities to represent Australia in the best possible way and make us proud.

CARIS TIIVEL NOW FACE AND BRAND AMBASSADOR OF BODYOGRAPHY AND SUMITA AUSTRALIA, WHAT WILL BE HER RESPONSIBILITIES IN THE ROLE.

In the coming months we will be putting together our new add campaign with Caris which will include posters for our brand as well as a TVC. Its exciting times as the brands have found some new rapid growth in 2016 with the quality of stockists becoming larger as we welcome some ne wfranchises on board. We plan to utilise Caris for special launches and events as well the opening of our own concept stores.

The Doctor’s Skin Peels now available to you Easy to use • Outstanding results • Developed by leading Plastic Surgeon • Adds $000’s to your bottom line • Full training and ongoing support

Take Home Range Clinically proven range of Cosmedical Take Home treatments that your clients will keep coming back for.

“Clients are very happy with the results. They see the difference straight away.

We have seen some incredible changes after the first treatment. Mayerling speaks for itself”.

Brigitte Marden, owner of Brigitte Academie de Beaute, Five Dock, Sydney.

“We have been using Mayerling Skin Renewal Systems since 2003. With the retail products, we have had fantastic feedback especially with the Mayerling Forte Creams / Lotion and Eye Cream. If you are looking for a product that works, and is easy to use then I would highly recommend Mayerling Skin Renewal Systems. As well as being a fantastic product it is also cost effective.”

Marilyn Klein, Owner of Boudoir Day Spa, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo, Japan.

I have worked as a beautician for 35 years both in Paris and New Caledonia. For a long time, I have appreciated and used the best French Beauty Products. Now I use and refer Mayerling to all my clients. It is a TRUE ANTI-AGING PRODUCT. I have only one advice for you. Try Mayerling once and you will be converted.

Elisabeth Henin, Owner of SERENITE Salon, Noumea, New Caledonia

If you are interested in being appointed as an exclusive MAYERLING Skin Renewal System Salon for your area contact us now on +612 9909 0935

Enquires +612 9909 0935 www.mayerlingskincare.com

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PROFILE

BODY CONTOURING We Look at Body Contouring and the Technology that is becoming today’s most effective, long term solution for the contouring and tightening of the body and face.

The technologies of UniPolar, CoaxiPolar and Microplasma are becoming the most effective, long term solution for the contouring and tightening of the body and face. And most importantly these technologies are backed by 10 years clinically proven effectiveness.

The minimally or non-invasive sector of the aesthetic industry has seen considerable growth over the last few years and the Alma Reform is our top pick of equipment in this sector. These non-surgical treatments are attracting clients due to significant outcomes, patient safety, reduced treatment time and recovery time. With major growth expected within this sector of the industry is the perfect time to introduce contouring and tightening treatments to your menu.

We took a review of the Alma Reform and it’s technologies that offer the following indications: • Wrinkles • Fine lines • Skin tone • Laxity • Body contouring, • Skin tightening • Cellulite The Reform is part of the of the NEW “never before seen in Australia” range from Alma Lasers in partnership with Spectrum Science & Beauty and has got to be one of the most exciting things to enter into the Beauty industry in Australia to date. Leveraging off the current globally renowned and clinically proven technology, utilised predominantly by the medical profession, the main focus of Spectrum’s launch of the Reform in Australia has been all about delivering the same level of quality and technology at a price point that beauty businesses can be confident of producing an impressive return on investment. It is priced very affordably for the quality, technology and support.

The Reform offers beauty clinics multiple technologies in the one machine

PATENTED UNIPOLAR™ TECHNOLOGY

Unipolar™ technology uses dielectric heating – focused and powerful heating – a unique technology that transmits high radiofrequency energy directly to the targeted tissue via a single electrode. Delivering this focused energy up to 20 mm deep creates a rapid rotation of water molecules within the skin, causing friction and generating deep, effective and safe dermal heating without discomfort.

Heat is produced deep within the skin’s tissue, addressing varying anatomical structures and locations, while targeting fat cells and collagen fibers. The result includes a re-collagen effect, which lifts and tightens the skin, as well as reduced fat cell volume, which contours the 46

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shape and improves the visibility of cellulite.

COA X I P OL A R TECHNOLOGY

CoaxiPolar is focused on the Face. Suitable for facial treatments and using a coaxial electrode which transmits up to 6 mm deep. Its ergonomic, lightweight design and integrated thermometer enables easier use. It features an automatic temperature reading (C° or F°), making treatments faster and more efficient.

MICROPEEL

Micro Perforation for Skin Rejuvenation. This very small applicator provides micro perforation of the skin, using unique Microplasma™ technology. Micro perforates and gently removes the outer layer of skin and enables the removal of superficial pigmentation, revealing more vital, smoother skin with a vibrant glow.

Additionally, microplasma uses electromagnetic pulses to produce plasma sparks and create micro channels within the skin. This effect enables a direct path to the skin tissue to successfully deliver all types of cosmetic formulations for enhanced results. With micro perforation the surrounding skin remains undamaged, which aids in rapid healing.

We would highly recommend you to take a look at the Alma Reform to take advantage of the major growth that is expected in the contouring and tightening sector.

Distributed by Spectrum Science & Beauty 1300 766 198 sales@spectrumsciencebeauty.com.au www.spectrumsciencebeauty.com.au www.almabeauty.com.au

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PROFILE Your Lips…Your Lipstick

THE LIP LAB

The Lip Lab is the very first company of it’s kind in Australia to use this product and blending machine together. Yes you heard it right, in conjunction with one of our professional lip colour consultants you will be able to choose, mix and apply your own shades.

Sisters and co-founders Courtney and Kimberly Treacy have revolutionised the beauty industry with their makeup company, The Lip Lab. Finding the perfect shade of lipstick has become a personalised and enjoyable experience since The Lip Lab opened its flagship store in Paddington, Sydney, in November 2015. Sydney’s lipstick lovers are no longer trawling through aisles and cosmetic stands in search of the perfect colour or having their favourite shade of pink discontinued. Instead, they’re booking appointments with the beauty experts at The Lip Lab and loving it!

The Lip Lab is now offering its bespoke, custom service in Westfield Miranda, and at two new Sydney locations to follow, Westfield Parramatta, and Westfield Chatswood. National expansions following soon after, with a second flagship opening on Chapel Street, Melbourne and three new locations in Queensland; Westfield Chermside, Westfield Carindale and Pacific Fair.

The Lip Lab has epitomised the customisation trend with their specialised lipstick creation concept. Their process is simple and effective: 1. Clients are paired with professional Lip Lab experts and a base is chosen from their wide range of micas and pigments. These bases include matte, crème, gloss and vegan- friendly options 2. You choose a colour and shade that perfectly compliments your complexion and style 3. Enjoy the option to add flavours, scents or additives (such as plumper, sun protection and anti-ageing benefits)

4. Your unique formula is then heated and mixed in Australia’s first high-speed blending machine 5. To complete the process, your lipstick is set and cooled in The Lip Lab’s state-of-theart lipstick moulds The Lip Lab also cater for lip gloss lovers, with the same process applied to the gloss-based products. Consultations are 30 minutes long with a 15 minute production period. During this creative process, clients are encouraged to test their lipstick’s shade, taste and texture to ensure the final product is pure perfection. Your oneof-a-kind lipstick is then named by you, with its unique specifications recorded on a consultation card, making re-ordering a breeze.

The Lip Lab’s founders came across the concept on a layover in Dallas, Texas. Courtney and Kimberly then began a year-long planning process wherein they consulted extensively with cosmetic chemists and suppliers, before opening Australia’s first custom blending cosmetic company.

The Lip Lab offer everything from one-on-one appointments to bookings for groups of up to eight people. The experience is perfect for gifting to a friend or loved one, celebrating hen’s parties or a fun day out with your girlfriends.

Other products include lip liners, nail polishes and candles to beautifully compliment your personalised creation.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS How long does a consultation take?

A typical consultation takes around 30 minutes.

What happens during the consultation?

During a consultation with one of our professional colour consultants we will discuss what colours you normally wear, what you would like to experiment with, textures you prefer, whether you like a creme finish or a matte finish etc.?

Can flavours be added to the lipstick or lip gloss?

Yes, you sure can. We have a number of flavours you can add including strawberry, blueberry and citrus to name a few.

What about sun protection? Can this be added?

Yes. If you like you can add an SPF if you would like to protect your lips from the sun.

Is there anything else that can be added to the shade?

You sure can. There are lots of things you can add such as a lip plumper to make the lips appear fuller whilst you wear lipstick or an anti ager to help prevent lipstick from feathering or creeping into fine lines, to name a few. www.theliplab.com.au

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MEDICAL TIGHTENING TECHNOLOGY Introducing the E-Clip+ HIFU technology which uses ultrasound energy at a much deeper level compared to laser and radio-frequency with out effecting the skin surface.

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SPA PROFILE

THE NEW FACE OF MEDISPA Steps from the sand and surf of Sydney’s iconic Bondi Beach is Australia’s newest luxury lifestyle and wellness destination, Face Plus Medispa.

Applying cutting-edge modalities, Face Plus Medispa is set to redefine facial rejuvenation, internal health and old-world healing. “Face Plus Medispa is the destination for those seeking transformative results in a relaxed and luxurious spa environment,” says Founder and Cosmetic Surgeon, Dr. William Mooney. “It exudes the kind of opulence that was once exclusively available for the rich and famous – our new beauty and wellness facility makes a top-to-toe overhaul accessible to everyone.”

Opening in the oceanfront Pacific Pavilion at Bondi Beach, Face Plus Medispa redefines the bespoke beauty and wellness experience: on offer are high-tech beauty and integrative medical treatments from qualified beauty and health experts, including an onsite doctor, naturopath, Reiki practitioner, registered nurses, skincare and laser technology experts. A makeup artist is also onsite so that clients walk out the door looking as fabulous as they feel.

From cosmeceutical facials to skin needling and light-based treatments or the signature 3.5 hour Bondi fusion package (a cocoon wrap, massage, skin rejuvenation facial and endorphin-enhancing light therapy), Face Plus Medispa incorporates the latest technologies and evidence-based medical treatments to repair, replenish and rejuvenate skin. “Face Plus Medispa is about looking and feeling your absolute best – all the while enjoying the experience in a relaxed spa space,” says Dr. Mooney.

As well as long-term beauty and health treatment plans, clients can receive expert advice on improving energy levels and boosting skin radiance at the ‘DRIP AND CHILL LOUNGE’.

“We have a qualified doctor on site to prescribe a bespoke intravenous or intramuscular shot of vitamins, minerals and antioxidants,” says Dr. Mooney. “It’s a safe and effective way to help you feel on top of the world.”

THE EXPERTS SAMANTHA MENZIES HEAD THERAPIST (SKINCARE AND LASER EXPERT) With over 10 years experience as a facialist and educator specialising in dermal therapy, Samantha’s skill at creating bespoke treatment 50

Beauty Biz Year 9 Issue 5

plans has earned her a distinguished reputation in the beauty field. “Facials should be relaxing, but also educational so that clients treat their skin properly once at home,” says Samantha.

CAROLINE YOUNG COSMETIC NURSE, BSC (NUR) Caroline is a specialised cosmetic injector and registered nurse with over 15 years’ experience in high-profile Australian clinics and as a clinical trainer for Galderma (a leading manufacturer of aesthetic treatments and products). Trained by world leaders in the skin science field, Caroline specialises in helping clients achieve natural-looking results.

GRACE BARNES NATUROPATH Grace is a health and wellbeing expert - an accredited naturopath and yoga teacher, she educates clients on how to achieve long-term health and wellness through physical movement, a nourishing diet and naturopathic support.

DR WILLIAM MOONEY (MBBS FRACS) FOUNDER & COSMETIC SURGEON Leading Australian cosmetic surgeon and founder of Face Plus Medispa, Dr. Mooney already has two successful medispas in Bankstown and Bondi Junction (shortlisted by Vogue Australia, and ranked in the Top 5 Facial Clinics by The Australian Financial Review) and has a loyal following of international and local celebrities who value his holistic approach to facial rejuvenation. “Face Plus Medispa at Bondi Beach takes luxury to a new level,” says Dr. Mooney. “Our unique multi-disciplinary approach combining effective medical-grade

treatments with diet, lifestyle and supplements is the best way to you get your glow back.”

Face Plus MediSpa, Shop 2, Level 1, 180 Campbell Parade Bondi Beach, 2026. www.faceplus.com.au Phone (02) 8897 0077

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DERMAL

WILD BEAUTY Wildcrafted is the new Organic. So what is wildcrafting and why are wild harvested ingredients so desirable??

The Aboriginal People of Australia have gathered, eaten and wildcrafted Australia’s unique botanicals for thousands of years.

In fact you will find a history of wildcrafting in all cultures and in all countries. The unique nature of the plants which have grown uncultivated is that such plants have undergone a natural selection – only the most resilient, strong plants, rich in nutrients and active components, survive.

Wildcrafting is the practice of harvesting plants from their natural, or “wild” environment for food or medicinal purposes. It applies to uncultivated plants wherever they may be found, and is not necessarily limited to wilderness areas. Ethical 52

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considerations are often involved, such as protecting endangered species.

“When wildcrafting is done sustainably and with proper respect, generally only the fruit, flowers or branches from plants are taken and the living plant is left, or if it is necessary to take the whole plant, seeds of the plant are placed in the empty hole from which the plant was taken. Care is taken to only remove a few plants, flowers, or branches, so plenty remains to continue the supply ” - Bruce Buren,”Wildcrafting: A “simple” life fraught with a host of complex ethical and practical considerations”

SO WHAT IS THE BENEFIT OF USING WILD-HARVESTED PLANTS IN SKINCARE?

Wild-harvested plants have grown wildly without any interference, they develop differently as they must survive in the harshest of environments - it is here that they don’t survive - they thrive where other plants could not exist. Incredibly high levels of anti oxidants are produced to enable survival, a great example of this is Australia’s Terminalia Ferdinandiana or Kakadu plum. Kakadu plums medicinal properties are exceptional with studies showing it contains the worlds highest levels of vitamin C - as high as 3200-5000mg/100g (compared with rosehip 2000mg/100g or 50mg/100g for oranges). As we know skin loves

Vitamin C for its collagen regenerating properties and anti-oxidant activity as it mops up damaging free radicals. It also contains phytochemicals such as gallic and illogic acids. Gallic acid has anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antiviral and antifungal activities, as an anti oxidant it protects skin cells from free radical damage. Ellagic acid encourages elasticity and suppleness in aged skin.

Wild botanicals and in particular native Australian botanicals contain exceptionally high levels of nutrients which when extracted appropriately are incredibly beneficial for our skin. They have been studied and tested extensively at The Southern Cross University and is very exciting for Skincare Formulators such as myself that the Botanical extracts wildcrafted in our own back yard are second to none. A few favourite Australian skin loving Botanicals include: Mountain Pepper Leaf (Tasmannia lanceolatta) An Australian Native found in the colder climate of Tasmania and south east Australia.

Historically used as Traditional Medicine by the Aborigines the Mountain Pepper Leaf has powerful antioxidant properties having an ORAC score that is over 3200 compared to Vitamin E at 585 and Vitamin C which has a ORAC score

“When wildcrafting is done sustainably and with proper respect, generally only the fruit, flowers or branches from plants are taken and the living plant is left� of 128-133. ORAC stands for Oxygen Radical Absorption Capacity and it is a lab based (in vitro) test used to determine the antioxidant capacity of botanicals and thus allows skincare formulators to choose the most potent extracts for their products.

Desert Lime (citrus glauca) A small shrub that grows in semi-arid regions of Queensland, NSW and South Australia where it is wildcrafted. Desert Lime is packed with tiny pearls of potent bio actives that support collagen production and anti oxidants that protect our skin from free radical damage. Particularly healing for skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis.

Davidsons Plum (Davidsonia jersyana) A native Australian tropical rainforest fruit. This dark blue black plum has a vibrant red flesh and contains high levels of the anti-oxidant Anthocyanin, phenolic aids, flavone glycosides and flavones. This exciting and powerful extract helps prevent wrinkles, eliminate free radicals, reduce UV damage, improve skin health, promotes collagen, elastin and skin elasticity.

Nicole O Sullivan is the owner of Wildcrafted Organics, a botanical skincare range based on highly concentrated bio active nutrients.

She holds qualifications in nutrition, botanical medicine and massage and is highly passionate about Australian wildcrafted ingredients. www.wildcraftedorganics.com. au

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DERMAL

VEGAN, GLUTEN-FREE AND GLOWING

THE NEW TREND IN NATURAL SKINCARE

By Carlia Ashton & Shannon Wylie The natural skincare industry is growing at a rate of 20% per year according to industry reports. Seeded in that growth has been the introduction of vegan and gluten-free face and body products. But what does it really mean?

If there are two words that have garnered more headline hypotheses when it comes to nosh and natural skincare, in the past few years, it’s gluten and vegan. Anyone for a soy chai latte? What about a gluten-freecoconut-milk-based-dairy-free muffin? Far from being a fad, these two terms stand for much more than just a new diet direction.

They equate to supporting the lifestyles of coeliac sufferers and animal-friendly advocates, two causes now being channeled by the skincare industry.

According to a report published by Coeliac Australia, coeliac disease is: “a systemic autoimmune disease characterised by abnormalities of the small bowel.” The report goes on to say that, “the mainstay of treatment of coeliac disease is a strict lifelong ‘gluten-free’ diet, although total avoidance of gluten can be difficult and there is individual variability in tolerance to gluten.” As a result, and while evidence is still building on whether the consumption of gluten through your skin is, in effect, enough to experience symptoms associated with coeliac and gluten intolerances, cosmetics companies are providing skincare solutions.

One of the brands working to decipher the small print is Australian skincare brand ONNE which keeps in mind nature versus nurture when it comes to their gluten-free and vegan products.

We are what we eat after all, whether it’s through the consumption of ingredients internally or externally. “Our nature is to feed our skin with ingredients that are chemical free, vegan, gluten free and cruelty free, while we nurture our body and our surroundings with a product that is beneficial,” said ONNE Co-Founders Carlia Ashton and Shannon Wylie. “I suffer from a gluten intolerance and it makes no sense to me to put an ingredient on my skin, which will be absorbed into my body, that could potentially have harmful or damaging effects, today or in ten 54

Beauty Biz Year 9 Issue 5

years from now,”

GLUTEN FREE

Today, a growing number of cosmetic companies are opting to create collections sans ingredients that contain wheat and gluten. Common types of gluten-infused ingredients to look out for in your moisturisers, shampoos, make-up and even toothpaste include wheat germ, hydrolysed wheat and vegetable protein, triticum aestivum, oatmeal and avena sativa. Ultimately though, a gluten free diet has become apart of people’s lifestyle edit, much like veganism.

CRUELTY FREE

Living a vegan lifestyle typically means not consuming any product, which contains animal byproducts. Today however, the ability for consumers to also extend their fashion, beauty and skincare choices to be cruelty free is now possible. Dairy and animal byproducts that are commonly found in skincare and cosmetics include alpha-hydroxy acid, beeswax, capryl betaine, cetyl alcohol, collagen, elastin,

gelatin, glycerin, keratin, lanolin, oleyl stearate, panthenol, polyglycerol, retinol, shellac and stearic acid. Some of these ingredients can be plant-based, so be sure to take note of the PETA-approved sign (just look for the little bunny on the back of bottles). It’s important for brands to ensure that they are recognised by PETA as cruelty-free, as well as vegan. There is absolutely no need for animals to suffer, when a successful skincare alternative can be created with just as impressive results using what Mother Nature created.

Aside from following a deliberate dietarydeveloped beauty routine, the depth of consideration for the body of humans and animals stems well beyond skin deep – especially when it comes to the trajectory of vegan and gluten-free skin care.

Carlia Ashton and Shannon Wylie are the founders of skin care brand ONNE which is an all-natural, vegan and gluten-free skincare. www.onnebeauty.com

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DERMAL

UNDERSTANDING TOPICAL RETINOIDS

By Andrew Christie

Retinoids refer to any chemical compound that is related to the vitamin A family. The most common forms used in topically applied skin care include: - Retinoic Acid (Tretinoin/all-trans Retinoic Acid) - Retinaldehyde (Retinal) - Retinol - Retinyl Palmitate - Retinyl Acetate - Retinyl Propionate - β Carotene (a pro-Vitamin A) Topically applied retinoic acid was originally developed in the late 1960s by Dr Albert Kligman (the father of modern dermatology) as a prescription solution to target aggressive acne.

Its success was attributed to the acceleration of cellular turnover (thus reducing congestion) and via the regulation of excessive sebum production.

This product became known as Retin-A. Clinical studies conducted in the mid-1980s

by Kligman concluded that retinoic acid (and other medical grades of vitamin A including 56

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retinaldehyde) were not only effective for the treatment of acne, but had the ability to: - Promote collagen production - Regulate cellular proliferation and differentiation - Increase epidermal thickness - Increase Glycosaminoglycan (GAG) deposition (such as hyaluronic acid) - Increase elastic fibres - Promote angiogenesis “Tretinoin (Retinoic Acid) substantially altered the involutional structural changes in intrinsically aged protected skin. ” It is for this reason that medical grade vitamin A (retinoic acid & retinaldehyde), in addition to SPF and Botox (by brand) have been clinically proven to essentially reverse, prevent and repair cellular mutation.

Now often referred to as the anti-ageing vitamin, vitamin A is an intense yellow coloured, oil soluble ingredient that can be found naturally in foods such as sweet potato, pumpkin, paprika

and carrots. Once digested, the βCarotene found in such food sources is initially converted into retinyl palmitate then stored in the liver until required by body cells. A process of conversion occurs in order to effectively deliver the vitamin A systemically to sustain DNA and cellular structure: β Carotene (Nutrition) ↓ Retinol (Transported) ↓ Retinyl Palmitate (Cell receptor) ↓ Retinol (Mitochondria) ↓ Retinoic Acid (Cell nucleus) As a topical skin exfoliating / resurfacing agent, retinoic acid has the ability to work far deeper

than AHAs / AAHAs and BHAs. Retinoic acid also has the ability to affect cell formation, hence its reputation to reverse skin damage. Retinoic acid becomes attached to retinoid receptors (which provide information to the cell) and promotes regulated cellular form and shape.

This corrective process therefore encourages the future proliferation and regeneration of healthier formed cells. This is also the case with retinaldehyde, though its resurfacing capabilities are significantly lower by comparison.

The form and percentage of vitamin A used in topical skin application determines not only its efficacy, but its versatility and skin tolerance.

Retinoic acid is a prescription only product. It is usually formulated in an emulsion or cream base and is available in concentrations of 0.025%, 0.05% and 0.1%. Retinaldehyde is also used in formulae at such similar doses of concentration.

Retinoic Acid at higher strengths is indicated for the treatment of acne and thickened seborrhoeic conditions, however in lower strengths and in a more emollient base has indications for the treatment of sun-damaged / aged skin conditions.

The risk of a retinoid reaction is high when many retinoid products are misused, side effects such as burning, redness, irritation, flaking and thinning of the skin are signs of a retinoid overdose. Risk of retinoid reaction however are substantially reduced by using a topical form such as retinaldehyde.

Retinaldehyde and retinol are both highly active retinoids that do not require a doctor’s prescription. With far less potential aggression and potency of retinoic acid, retinaldehyde and retinol not only have an increased skin penetration potential (when compared to their prescription-only counterpart), but both are still converted back into retinoic acid by the skin once absorbed. This still ensures a certain degree of efficacy but with a far lower risk of reaction or irritation. Retinaldehyde however only needs to undergo one single conversion and as such possesses a substantially greater potency when compared to retinol. It is for this reason it is classed as a medical grade form of retinoid and as such is measured on the same scale of activity as retinoic acid. Synthetic engineering of retinaldehyde also delivers even greater skin compatibility with little to no risk of retinoid reaction.

Dr John Voorhees from the University Of Michigan concluded in a study that “retinol must be present in at least a 20% concentration in order for a product to mimic tretinoin or retinaldehyde”.

The United States FDA caps retinoid derivatives (such as retinol) in non-prescription skin care products at 2% whilst the Australian TGA caps it at 1% concentration. This supports that there are significant potency differences between the members of the retinoid family. As retinoic Acid and retinaldehyde are on the same measurement scale, they are caped at 0.1% within a formula.

Whilst the re-surfacing abilities of retinaldehyde and retinol are not as potent as retinoic acid, they can create greater versatility and activity for a wider array of skin conditions whilst providing better compatibility with the skin. Retinaldehyde especially has the ability to normalise cellular activity whilst addressing mutation and damage,

thus creating their reversal effect.

Retinaldehyde is converted by the skin back into retinoic acid within one step, whereas retinol must convert into retinaldehyde first before being converted in retinoic acid. It is for this reason that retinaldehyde is more active than retinol. Retinaldehyde has also shown to create less erythema and to be less aggressive than retinoic acid and retinol. It has the capability to convert both upwards and downwards to be more effortlessly absorbed by retinoid receptors with minimal trauma. Retinol however is more commonly used in skin care, as it is a far cheaper raw material to produce. Retinaldehyde is US$127,000 for just 100 grams of product.

The most popular form of retinoid used in mass market skin care however is retinyl palmitate.

This ester of retinol is combined with palmitic acid to create an extremely mild retinoid, however it requires an extensive conversion in order for it to transform into retinoic acid within the skin.

Retinyl palmitate’s popularity is due to its relative compatibility with the skin by comparison to retinoic acid or retinol). This creates a very low risk of retinoid reaction or irritation. Effective as an antioxidant, skin conditioner and extremely mild very, very superficial exfoliant, retinyl palmitate and other weaker retinyl esters (including retinyl acetate and retinyl propionate) although marketed as active forms of vitamin A, simply do not have anywhere near the strength, penetration ability nor versatility of derivatives such as retinaldehyde. Retinyl palmitate may be a suitable option as a ‘starter retinoid’ for weakened or reactive skins or as a potent topical antioxidant. β Carotene, through the most common food source of vitamin A (as a pro-vitamin A), requires the most extensive conversion in order to transform back into retinoic acid. Whilst on one hand, this significantly reduces its activity for skin resurfacing or active skin correction, on the other it ensures almost no risk of skin reaction. β Carotene is used as a potent antioxidant and yellow colourant.

The conversion of topically applied retinoids from weakest derivative back into active retinoic acid within the skin is as follows: Pro-Vitamin A (including β Carotene) ↓ Retinyl Propionate ↓ Retinyl Acetate ↓ Retinyl Palmitate ↓ Retinol ↓ Retinaldehyde (Retinal) ↓ Retinoic Acid (Tretinoin / all-trans Retinoic Acid) There are 3 factors to take into account with the topical use of any active retinoid: - Ingredient Stability - Pregnancy - Photo-sensitivity

Active retinoids including retinoic acid, retinaldehyde and retinol can be highly unstable ingredients and have the ability to oxidise and loose potency if exposed to sunlight and air.

Ideal packaging should be airtight (such as an airless pump) and opaque. Many formulae will incorporate specific encapsulation to further protect against oxidation. Oxidised retinoids will change to a darker yellow, orange or even light brown colour. β Carotene appears to possess significant more stability as an ingredient and is identified by its bright yellow / orange colour, this is why it is often used as a colourant. The combination of AHAs or benzoyl peroxide / hydrogen peroxide with retinoids will de-stabilise the effects of the vitamin A .

There are many misconceptions regarding the use of topical vitamin A and pregnancy. Studies have indicated that birth defects can be caused when the RDI (recommended daily intake) of vitamin A is exceeded over 200%, this would equate to over 10,000IU of ingested Vitamin A. 1% of vitamin A derivative (such as retinol) applied topically only equals around 578IU of vitamin A - just 2.3% of the RDI of its ingested form. Whilst there is no evidence to suggest that active non-prescription, topically applied vitamin A derivatives would have any effect on pregnancy, any concerned patients should be recommended to seek guidance from their doctor. Due to its lower activity and extensive conversion the use of pro-vitamin A derivatives such as β Carotene are guaranteed safe when topically applied.

As most retinoids are known photo-sensitisers, patients are recommended to use any Vitamin A derived ingredient or product in the evening for optimum results. A broad spectrum sunscreen with a minimum SPF 15 should also be used daily to prevent accelerated skin burning and potential irritation.

Despite common acknowledgment that ALL forms of topically applied retinoids are photosensitisers, studies at the University Hospital in Geneva in 2003, found that retinyl esters (such as retinyl palmitate, acetate and propionate) have the ability to provide a photo-protective action within the skin, guarding against UVB radiation. βCarotene is also attributed with this quality.

Paris based, Andrew R. Christie is the Managing Director of Lipservice Consulting, world experts in technical writing and training manual content for the medical and clinical aesthetics market. andrew@lipserviceconsulting.com References: 1 Kligman, Effects of all-trans-retinoic acid on the dermis of hairless mice, Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, Volume 15, Issue 4 , Pages 779-785, October 1986.

2 Setterfield, The Concise Guide To Dermal Needling, p15, Virtual Beauty, 2010.

3 Dr Leslie Baumann, Chief of the Department of Cosmetic Dermatology and Professor of Dermatology at the University of Miami, cf, www.skintypesolutions.com

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DERMAL

THE SKIN YOU ARE IN

By Dora Erdossy

If someone was to ask me what l am most passionate about as a trainer and as a dermal clinician…other than education and training….it would be skin.

I love skin!! Skin fascinates me! From the inside out, from the superficial intricacies to the deep! The differences between healthy skin and unhealthy skin that is both felt and seen! Throughout the years, I have come to know a thing or two about skin and l am forever researching information to ensure that l am up-to-date with the latest in what the scientific community is finding out about the largest living organ of the body.

What I find most fascinating, is the everevolving changes, from a young skin to … shall l put this politely…mature skin!!

The ageing population continues to increase and as beauty therapists/dermal clinicians, we are privy to the dermatological concerns of ageing people. Ageing itself is a process that involves a slow deterioration in tissue function and occurs in most organs of the body, including the skin where it is demonstrated visibly.

Ageing skin is a very complex process that is still not fully understood but is a process that the scientific community is very interested in. Within this article, l will share some various factors linked to skin ageing as well as recommend solutions to advise and educate our clients on in relation to 58

Beauty Biz Year 9 Issue 5

either slowing down the skin ageing process or effectively treating what is already there.

INTRINSIC & EXTRINSIC AGEING

Ageing is a process that is a result of both intrinsic and extrinsic factors, progressively leading to a loss of skin function and integrity.

Intrinsic ageing is also known as chronological ageing. This is when we see and feel the natural consequence of physiological changes over time and it is genetically pre-determined.

Skin that ages intrinsically is normally found in sun-protected areas….your derriere is a great example of this, unless it has had its time in the sun!!!!

The rate at which one ages intrinsically can be affected greatly via extrinsic ageing, also known as photo-ageing. This type of ageing to a certain degree can be controlled. When l worked inclinic and clients expressed concern about their ageing skin, l would always say to them that they can play a huge role in how their skin ages.

Why is that? Well…extrinsic factors include exposure to ultraviolet light where combination of UVB causes damage to the epidermis and UVA

causes damage to the dermis. Other extrinsic factors include repetitive muscle movement and lifestyle such as diet and overall health. If one limits their exposure to the sun, enjoys a healthy diet, stays on top of their health and smiles rather than frowns, they can potentially slow down the ageing process of their skin.

INTRINSICALLY AGED SKIN

Intrinsically aged skin is usually transparent and thin with a loss of underlying fat, firmness and elasticity. Fine wrinkles are apparent and with a natural reduction in fibroblasts there is a general atrophy of the dermal matrix. A decrease in collagen and elastin production coupled with an increased breakdown of these structures leads to not only a reduced amount of collagen and elastin but also an impaired organisation of these vital structures of our skin.

Intrinsic factors such as hormonal changes strongly influences the changes we see in the skin. Oestrogen and progesterone declines with menopause and deficiency in oestrogen leads to dryness, wrinkling, loss of elasticity and a breakdown in collagen. Ethnicity, which is primarily related to differences in melanin production, can also play a role in how one

ages naturally. The higher the Fitzpatrick Skin Type the higher the levels of pigment, which can protect against the cumulative effects of photoageing.

EXTRINSICALLY AGED SKIN

Extrinsically aged skin appears wrinkled, rough in texture with uneven pigmentation. There is an increased thickness of the epidermis and there are alterations in the organisation of connective tissue in the dermis.

A method that is often used to visually assess the degree of photo-damage and ageing is the Glogau Scale of Photo-Ageing. It is a subjective method but it is designed as a quick way of categorising clients/patients skin by examining the texture of their skin, elasticity, the number of wrinkles present and any pigmentary changes.

It’s an excellent tool that can be used during a consultation to ascertain the most appropriate procedure based on the results wanting to be achieved. There are 4 types ranging from mild/ early photo-ageing to severe photo-ageing. The table below is an example of the Glogau Scale of Photo-Ageing.

due to the vascular network having less support as a result of the dermis being damaged causing the vessels to widen.

Smoking can also contribute to prematurely ageing the skin. Damage to the skin initially occurs due to a decrease in blood flow to the skin leading to nutrient and oxygen deprivation.

Elastosis and telangiectasia is a result of cigarette smoking and research has shown that smoking increases the production of collagenase hence a breakdown in collagen leading to wrinkling of the skin.

SO WHAT ARE THE SOLUTIONS?

AGEING SKIN THEORIES

There are a number of theories when it comes to skin ageing and it would take many articles to discuss them all. I will only be highlighting a couple of key ones this time round, one of which l am sure you are all very familiar with.

FREE RADICAL (REACTIVE OXYGEN SPECIES)

Free radicals are defined as a molecule that is able to exist independently with one or more unpaired electrons and it plays a major role in both intrinsic and extrinsic ageing. They are known as reactive oxygen species and can be unstable and volatile.

Free radical production can occur endogenously through the normal processes of metabolism in the mitochondria or exogenously from the environment such as pollution, smoking and UV exposure.

UV exposure contributes greatly to visible skin ageing. UV radiation causes an increase of matrix metalloproteinases (MMP’s), which stimulates the production of collagenase & other MMP’s. Consequently collagen, elastin & other components of the dermal extracellular matrix are broken down leading to wrinkles and yellowing of the skin. UV radiation can also interfere with elements of the immune system such as Langerhans cells which ultimately reduces the skin’s capability of protecting itself.

Furthermore, telangiectasia becomes apparent

Our body, being as amazing as it is, has its own natural antioxidant defence system to neutralise free radicals but this system can become depleted with age.

Antioxidants such as Vitamins A, C and E can act by either reducing free radical formation or quench free radicals that have been formed.

Non-enzymatic antioxidants can inhabit lipid and water soluble compartments of a cell.

Enzymes such as catalase, glutathione (GSH) and superoxide dismutase (SOD) protect tissues from free radicals. Together antioxidants and enzymes work together to neutralise free radicals however, with increased oxidative stress, antioxidant and enzyme levels can be affected and with age they are also reduced.

The topical application of antioxidants can help to replenish the natural reservoirs in the skin and have the ability to reduce free radical production.

Educating and advising clients on the benefits of incorporating antioxidants into their daily skin care regime can not only assist the skin in what it does naturally but also help to improve the overall health of the skin.

DNA DAMAGE

UV-induced DNA damage is also believed to contribute to photo-aged skin. DNA damage can occur directly or indirectly due to UV irradiation via the oxidative metabolism of reactive oxygen species. Fortunately, there are DNA repair systems present to respond to the damage however photo-ageing may be linked with a build-up of UV-induced damaged DNA due to a decrease in DNA repair capability as a consequence of ageing.

DNA repair is imperative especially as we are exposed to environmental elements such as ultraviolet light. If UV-induced DNA damage has not been repaired due to either an overexposure to UV or a reduced ability to repair, the result can be cellular death, senescence, mutagenesis and carcinogenesis of the skin.

SO WHAT ARE THE SOLUTIONS? DNA damage and the use of topically applied DNA repair enzymes to assist in DNA repair is

an area of extensive research. The use of DNA repair enzymes derived from marine material such as plankton has been shown to help reduce photo-damage of the skin. To assist in effective delivery of these enzymes deep into the skin, they are encapsulated in liposomes. How they have been shown to work is amazing!

The damaged DNA is found by the relevant DNA repair enzyme, it cuts out the damage, much like a seamstress, and patches up the hole with undamaged DNA using the opposite DNA strand as a template. For clients who are concerned with photo-ageing, the use of topically applied DNA repair enzymes will only take their daily skincare regime to a whole new level!!

WHERE TO FROM HERE?

As mentioned, ageing skin is a very complex process which is why l encourage all of you to research and read as much as you can. I have been in this industry for a very long time and it continues to astound me how far science has come with understanding the complexities of skin and the changes we see and feel as we grow older. Know as much as you can because it will only help you to understand what you are treating when it comes to an aged skin and you can also educate your client as to why they are experiencing what they are. Knowledge is power and l hope l have provided you a little of both today!

Dora Erdossy is Advanced Cosmeceuticals National Product Trainer, East Coast References: Antoniou, C., Kosmadaki, M.G., Stratigos, A.J., & Katsambas, A.D. (2010).

Photoaging. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 11(2), 95-102.

Callaghan, T.M., & Wilhem, K.P. (2008). A review of ageing and an examination of clinical methods in the assessment of ageing skin. Part 1: Cellular and molecular perspectives of skin ageing.

International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 30, 313-322.

Callaghan, T.M., & Wilhem, K.P. (2008). A review of ageing and an examination of clinical methods in the assessment of ageing skin. Part 2: Clinical perspectives and clinical methods in the evaluation of ageing skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 30, 323-332.

Chen, L., Hu, J.Y., & Wang, S.Q. (2012) The role of antioxidants in photoprotection: A critical review. American Academy of Dermatology, 67, 1013-24.

Farage, M.A., Miller, K.W., Elsner, P., & Maibach, H.I. (2008). Intrinsic and extrinsic factors in skin ageing: a review.

International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 30, 87-95.

Kohl, E., Steinbauer, J., Landthaler, M., & Szeimies, R.M. (2011).

Skin ageing. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 25, 873-884.

Moriwaki, S., & Takahashi. (2008). Photoaging and DNA Repair.

Journal of Dermatological Science, 50, 169-176.

Oresajo, C., Pillai, S., Manco, M., Yatskayer, M., & McDaniel, D. (2012). Antioxidants and the skin: Understanding formulation and efficacy. Dermatologic Therapy, 25, 252-259.

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EVENTS

BEAUTY EXPO AUSTRALIA 2016 IT’S A WRAP!

Australia’s biggest weekend of skincare, cosmetics, nails, medi, wellness and spa – has concluded in impressive style.

With numbers of visitors and exhibitors remaining on par with last year’s event, 2016 saw a strong return of the skincare sector to the event. International prestige brands like Babor, Dermalogica, DMK, Payot, Pevonia, Sothys and Juliette Armand as well as Australian skincare icons such as Pelactiv and Inskin Cosmetics were just some of the skincare names representing this central pillar of the industry.

Education was at an all time high, with the most stage sessions ever and more sold out sessions than ever before. Combine that with a record exhibitor rebooking result for next year, and the event is gearing up for a stellar future as the show gets set to return to Darling Harbour at the new ICC Sydney.

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“We’ve been delighted as ever by the support of the Australian beauty industry” said Event Director, Julia Erben. “Salon professionals are obviously hungry for solid, independent education and product innovation – a good sign for a dynamic year to come. And with educators and exhibitors having had such a successful event this year, many contributors are extra keen to commit to 2017. So we’re already planning a huge Beauty Expo in 2017, in our new home at ICC Sydney in Darling Harbour.”

The 2016 show was also a demonstration of the increased global relevance of the event.

International exhibitors this year included a South African pavilion showcasing 15 different brands, ranging from medi-based cosmeceuticals to many products with natural, indigenous ingredients. On the visitor side, representatives from 18 different

countries registered, among them a 25- strong VIP buyer delegation from China who specifically appreciated the premium quality of products made and designed in Australia. The Nailympia nail art competition featured entrants from seven different nations in 11 categories, highlighting Beauty Expo Australia’s role as an international hub for the industry.

“This international interest enables us to bring the world of professional beauty to Australia, while at the same time it showcases the Australian industry to the world”, commented Julia Erben.

“It’s a unique opportunity for our exhibitors to expand their businesses on a global platform”.

The success of the 2016 show was the result of a number of key innovations designed to revitalise the show.

The HUB – showcasing dedicated demonstrations of different industry sectors – was a four-sector education installation on the trade floor that proved a major drawcard for visitors. In addition to that, clearly categorising make-up, anti-ageing, nails and grooming made navigating the Expo floor simpler and more interesting for visitors. “Feedback shows us that this is an excellent way to represent the professional salon industry, both for our visitors but also for our exhibitors”, commented Julia Erben. “It helps us deliver the right visitors direct to the beauty brands and also makes it easy for visitors to quickly locate the exhibitors that are of interest to their businesses”.

Another big change in 2016 was the introduction of the Skincare Sanctuary. “Research showed us that we needed to highlight the pivotal role that skincare plays in the industry”, explains Julia Erben. “So the Sanctuary was introduced as a focal point on the trade floor where visitors could interact directly with some of the biggest brands in the business - Babor, Dermalogica, DMK, Payot, Pevonia and Sothys”.

Liane Waud Scior, owner of Pevonia, was pleased that she’d decided to return to the show after an eight year absence. “It was time for us to get face- to-face with our clients once again. There’s some really good quality business represented here and people who are genuinely looking for products and brands to align with”.

Celebrating the remarkably high standards of excellence in the local salon industry, the Face2Face Makeup Awards and Nailympia Competition proved highly popular not only with audiences, but also with participants, generating the highest level of entries to date – close to 300.

“We are very proud of both of these competitions”, commented Julia Erben. “They have the potential to propel careers to extraordinary levels and we look forward to following the success of all of our 2016 winners”.

Unique to the industry, the Beauty Expo education program of more than 80 professional skills workshops, business seminars, beauty bootcamps and hands-on artistic sessions were also more successful than ever before. “While

we’ve always offered education as part of the Beauty Expo weekend, the calibre of education and presenters this year was extraordinary”, commented Julia Erben. “And this was reflected in the fact that six of the sessions were completely sold out prior to the show opening – something that we’ve never experienced before”.

This clearly demonstrates that the industry is interested in unbiased education, where they can learn new information and skills to take back to the salon, independent of any brand or product influence.

So what’s next for Beauty Expo? The 2017 show takes its place for the first time at Sydney’s glittering new International Convention Centre.

The ICC in Darling Harbour is an amazing stateof-the-art facility that allows innovations in both the staging of the trade event and the supporting educational program which will revolutionise the show. “I cannot tell you how excited we are about our plans for Beauty Expo 2017”, said Julia Erben. “Watch this space over the next twelve months for some truly exciting news about where the Australian salon industry’s favourite event is heading!”

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Beauty Shop

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1. Glam Collection Spring/Summer 2016 by Stageline Glam is back, the style that marked an era, a feminine and extravagant look now on the catwalks. If anything characterises this style it is the emphasis given to the make up.It highlighs and gives volume to the lips with flashy berry colours. The look is framed with deli-cate strokes of eyeliner and most importantly, the skin has a radiant matt look with emphasis on the sculpting of cheek-bones and eyebrows. Stageline is setting the trend again with this NEW Spring/Summer col-lection for 2016.

Summer Glam is inspired by the style of Brigitte Bardot, a retro look. www.lfbi.com.au Ph: 0755 250 888

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2. Tolerance Extreme Cleansing Lotion by Avene Cleanses and soothes with maximum respect for all sensitive skin.Skin care designed with the skin’s PHYSIOlogy in mind, it is composed of: PHYSIO-compatible ingredients to mimic the skin’s composition, PHYSIO-refined textures for greater affinity with the skin, Sterile Cosmetics, a major innovation for skin care that focuses on what’s essential. www.avene.com.au 3. C-Tetra Cream by Medik8 Introducing C-Tetra Cream, a luxurious, moisturising and fastabsorbing day cream. With a combination of powerful vitamin C and vitamin E antioxidants to help restore radiance, hy-drate and protect against everyday environmental factors. A potent antioxidant moisturiser, for early adopters of an anti-ageing skincare regime. New C-Tetra Cream uses the same sta-ble vitamin C technology found in the best-selling C-Tetra serum to help maintain collagen production. www.medik8.com.au 4. Cold and Heat packs by Jazminbell Jazminbell is Australia’s first exclusive range of modern and stylish cold and heat packs handmade in the nation’s capital from 100% cotton fabrics and Australiangrown rice grains. Microwavable and freezer safe, Jazminbell cold and heat packs are reusable and ideal for the entire family.

Foregoing traditional wheat-fillers for locally sourced and gluten-

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free rice grains, the Jazminbell range provides superior functional and ergonomic comfort by complimenting bodily contours and maintaining warmer temperatures for longer. www.jazminbell.com 5. Boho Balm Boho Balm is the answer to undercoating your lips to avoid cracking for as long as possible!

Boho Balm is 100% Australian made and owned lip balm that has been created with Olive oil, Coconut Oil, Australian Beeswax and Honey. It’s completely natural with no harmful ingredi-ents. Apply Boho Balm as a base for matte lipstick that protects the lips from the dryness of a matte lipstick. It also gives a thin moisture to the lip when it dries. www.bohobalm.com 6. CELLTRESOR Multi Stem - Cell Serum by Dr. Spiller The CellTec Compound, a stem cell trio made of argan, symphytum and tiger grass, optimis-es the skin’s self-rejuvenation process by restoring the abilities of the skin’s own stem cells. Combined with Protective Peptide and Mastix Crystal Extract, it opti-mises the processes of skin renewal, DNA and connective tissue repair. The skin responds with increased youthful vitality and visibly fewer wrinkles. www.dr-spiller.com.au 7. Retinal Active by DP Dermaceutical An intense infusion of Vitamin A Retinaldehyde, this powerful combination of ingredients in-cludes repair and rejuvenation properties and anti-aging antioxidants. Visibly firms and lifts atrophied contours, promotes regeneration and repair and nourishes and comforts for in-creased resiliency. www.dermapenworld. com/find-a-clinic.html

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8. Face Oil by Babs Bodycare Babs Bodycare Face Oil is packed with vitamins, essential fatty acids, omegas and antioxi-dants.

Promotes healthy radiant skin, evens skin tone and smooths texture. The Body Oil is a luxurious light weight yet deeply nourishing moisturiser makes hydration easy! Promotes toned, nourished skin while leaving it incredibly smooth. www.babsbodycare.com.au

9. Deep Cleanse Face Mud by Hibou Free from parabens, artificial fragrances and preservatives, the Deep Cleanse Face Mud con-tains only Australian sourced ingredients that are gluten free and vegan friendly. Ideal for all skin types, including those affected by psoriasis, eczema and acne. www.hibou.net.au

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10. B Peel by Alex Cosmetics The combination of active herbs in a soothing gel cleverly stimulates the complexion’s natural regeneration process to function at its healthy, efficient best. Packed with pure herbs that are rich in natural proteins, vitamins, enzymes, minerals and vital trace elements, the B peel is free of synthetic chemical exfoliants or abrasives. www.herbalpeel.com.au 11. el8te: Wholesome Skincare The el8te range harnesses the power of Australia’s rich, pristine landscape to create natural products that are 100 per cent chemical free and safe for the whole family.

It utilises only the purest Australian goat’s milk, activated charcoal and other natural Australian ingredients.”

Of-fering four different ranges, el8te caters to all ages, as well as a variety of skin types and skins concerns including; wrinkles, sensitivity and dehydration. el8teaustralia.com.au

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12. The Dreamer by the Soak Society A bedtime bath is one of the most therapeutic tools you can have in establishing healthy sleep patterns.

Soothing water is great but if you really want to turn your bath into a sleep-boosting, stress busting, muscle relaxing miracle worker then The Soak Society’s new wellness soak will be your new best friend. www.soaksociety.com

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13. Bestow Beauty distributed by Professional Beauty Solutions Janine Tait is the founder of Bestow Beauty – a philosophy of skincare, made up of exquisite rituals and functional foods lovingly created to support your inner health and outer beauty.For thousands of years, through generation after generation, the secrets of beauty were be-stowed upon women by women. Mothers and grandmothers passed down the ultimate wis-dom: how to unlock nature’s gifts to nourish, heal and enrich. www.bestowbeauty.com 14. Pedicure Spa range by Comfortel The Comfortel CleanSpa focus on improving hygiene in the nail industry. The new Pedicure Spa range improves hygiene by introducing disposable CleanSpa Liners combined with a new and improved pipeless jet which is magnetic. It offers a great insight in improving hygiene in the nail industry as well as cutting down cleaning time for the technicians.

15. Age Reversal Eye Complex from Dermalogica® Introducing a more powerful way to reverse the signs of ageing around the eye area. Age Re-versal Eye Complex from Dermalogica® now features a new formula that draws on microen-capsulation technology and a unique firming complex to address multiple eye area concerns including fine lines and wrinkles, puffiness, dark under eye circles, and dryness lines. www.dermalogica.com.au

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NAILS CND GOES GARDEN CHIC AT ALICE + OLIVIA BY STACEY BENDET SPRING/SUMMER 2017 In New York, NY recently, CND, the pioneers of nail artistry, at Fashion Week, created three graphic nail designs for the Alice + Olivia by Stacey Bendet Spring/ Summer 2017 presentation. Inspired by 18th century tarot cards and mystic gardens, the clothing and nails embodied the power of positivity and the beauty of nature. This divine collaboration resulted in a sophisticated array of contrasting patterns and lush hues.

“Partnering with Alice + Olivia by Stacey Bendet this season has given our team a unique opportunity to showcase bold simplistic nail styles that can be seamlessly recreated by Nail Professionals in the salon,” said CND Co-founder and Style Director Jan Arnold. “Stacey Bendet’s inspiration this season fell right in line with our Summer 2017 trend story, which is rooted in nature with a sultry blend of color and design.”

For a behind-the-scenes look at CND’s Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2017 designer collaborations and nail designs, check out the CND Fashion Week Digital Headquarters at https://cnd.com/fwdigitalhq/. Follow CND on Instagram & Twitter @cndworld.

JOY TO THE WORLD

by FABY A new vibrant lacquer collection by FABY JOY Collection is guaranteed to put smile on your face. Colour shades can ignite deep emotional feelings and that is what JOY Collection offers.

Evolving from the very essence of Life, FABY JOY is what dreams are made from, bringing you bright and pastel colour shades that are perfect for Spring and Summer. Even the names of the lacquers bring joy and include Joy City – a sweet baby sky blue, La Vita è Bella (life is beautiful) – a fresh sea foam green and Shopping in Camden Town – a pastel coral pink.

FABY is Cruelty Free and the BIG 8 FREE - made without DBP (Dibutyl Phthalate), Toluene, Formaldehyde, Formaldehyde Resin and Camphor.

Available in leading salons www.faby.com.au

5 Hot Tips on Applying GELeration by Jessica Cosmetics Get the inside goss on some hot gel tips from Jessica : Rose lets you in on her top 5 secrets to success when using GELeration and other gel polishes.

1. Why Does GEL wrinkle, crinkle or ripple?

Applying the colour too thick will definitely cause this problem. Try using 2 or 3 thinner coats rather than getting it all done in one. The extra time is well worth the results.

2. My GELs peeled the next day?

If your gels peel then the problem is in the curing. Incorrect curing times, poor quality lamps and thick application all lead to poor curing. Make sure you use a good quality lamp designed for your system. All lamps are not the same.

3. My GELs did not last?

Like any polish, the durability of the finish has a lot to do with the foundation you apply it on.

Unhealthy or damaged nails are not good surfaces to paint on. If you have done everything else correctly, start looking at the health of your nail and correcting any conditions that affect longevity.

4. My GELs are chipping?

Over-curing the gel causes it to become brittle and prone to chipping. You might be compensating for a curing problem by using longer curing times and in turn causing the product to become brittle. It is so important to use the right lamp for your system

5. The GEL colour does not have a good coverage?

There are various types of finish available in gel polishes and some are quite sheer when applied.

Try using a ‘crème’ finish if you are longing for a really deep, intense shine. An extra coat will also give a deeper finish. For the more adventurous, you can try ‘colour loading’ and put a contrasting dark or light colour underneath for additional depth.

More information, hints and tips from www.jessicacosmetics.com.au 64

Beauty Biz Year 9 Issue 5

CND ROCKS THE RUNWAY NAILS AT LIBERTINE SPRING/SUMMER 2017 CND, recently created 25 show-stopping nail designs for the Libertine Spring/Summer 2017 runway show at Fashion Week in New York. Taking notes from Libertine’s rebellious punk rock collection, the nails were an effortlessly cool throwback to the 1970s and ‘80s with unexpected Victorian and new wave elements. This high-octane collaboration once again brought a fresh, bold energy to the scene through modern reinvention of the classics.

“Libertine’s Johnson Hartig has become a true extension of the CND family,” said CND Co-founder and Style Director Jan Arnold. “In this fifth season creating together, it was no surprise that Johnson’s artistic vision was perfectly in line with our CND trend story. Spring 2017 channels a retro futurist spirit, paying homage to iconic style with an edgy twist, and that’s exactly what we sent down the runway tonight.”

“These nails are a punk rock collage like you’ve never seen before,” said Libertine designer Johnson Hartig. “The inventiveness of the CND team blows my mind every single season. They continue to push the boundaries of artistry and I’m so grateful for this partnership.

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Naked Tan is excited to announce the release of 3 new Professional solutions, coming soon.

Developed using breakthrough technology Naked Tan have created these solutions that will put a stop to any tan-trums occurring.

The idea to create their own Spray Tan was born from realising they knew what clients want as they are at client’s service daily. Tan by Lucy Lane is proving to be a market leader in Spray Tanning by providing the highest quality sunless tanning products and equipment to the professional marketplace and being an organic, healthy tan suitable for all skin types and colours.

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Purchase an All in One Balm SPF15 30ml and get a Daily Protector Moisturiser SPF30 100g FREE Ultraderm All In One Balm SPF 15 is a multi-tasking skin enhancing cream. It contains moisturisers, antioxidants, and sunscreens in a tinted formula to provide a flawless, natural finish. Available in three shades Nude, Honey and Latte. Ultraderm Daily Protector Moisturiser is a light textured antioxidant, anti-irritant moisturiser with broad spectrum SPF30 protection.

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For a flawless tan athome, Naked Tan has created the perfect tool to guarantee you will achieve a natural streak-free tan. The NEW Applicator Mitt is designed to apply your tan thinly and easily buff your tan onto your skin. The Naked Tan Applicator Mitt is a must-have product, you can’t go without it!

The new Naked Tan application mitt pack comes with a BONUS applicator mitt.

No need to worry when your mitt needs a wash or when it’s time to throw one out, Naked Tan have got you sorted!

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Hydrating Self Tan Mousse by Sunescape Transform skin in an instant with this super-lightweight, non-sticky, easy-to-apply velvety mousse. With Sunescape’s Hydrating Self-Tan Mousse, you can achieve a radiant bronzed tan in minutes, which will develop into a deeper natural colour within 3 to 4 hours. Enriched with conditioning macadamia nut, coconut, and avocado oils to keep skin hydrated, added antioxidants from green tea, kakadu plum, grape seed extract and vitamin E help to nourish and protect skin from premature ageing. Scented with coconut to inspire thoughts of the perfect tropical escape.

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Prescriptive Spray Tanning is selecting one of their professional liquids that suits skin tone and needs.

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Beauty Biz Year 9 Issue 5

A multi-faceted professional with talents ranging from makeup artist, hairdresser, educator and beauty editor. Dale Dorning is one of Australia’s best-known celebrity hair and makeup artists.

Dale’s determination, along with his creative and technical skills, has seen him contribute widely to the industry over the past 20 years.

He has been commissioned to work Crown Princess Mary along with numerous celebrity clients including Miranda Kerr, Delta Goodrem, Rosario Dawson, Ruby Rose, Natalie Bassingthwaite, Megan Gale, Ricki-Lee Coulter, Sophie Monk, Teresa Palmer and Jennifer Hawkins being a few in his long list. His signature style has been called ‘effortless glamour’ as his celebrity clients will attest

1. WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR FOCUS FOR EDUCATION IN 2016?

My focus for 2016 has been a continuation of ‘Industry-relevant Training’ in conjunction with brand alliances with make up & hair brands, the likes of INGLOT, CROWN BRUSHES, MODELROCK and MAKEUP AND GLOW. My training provides everything from awareness, standards, job placement to further develop for my students artistic license whilst maintaining the integrity of our industry.

2. TELL US ABOUT THE PROOF COSMETICS RANGE

PROOF cosmetics has ben a part of my life for as long as I can remember and has had a few incarnations over the years. To still be here and in a full circle mode is exciting and humbling.

Our stockists and makeup artists alike swear by our formulas and finishes which is a reflection of all the hard work that has been invested in the range.

In September we launch the new face of PROOF cosmetics for our ‘EVERYBODY’ campaign, which we are so excited for.

We will continue to uphold our mantra of EDUCATION. COLOUR. AWARENESS in our formulations and environmental awareness.

3. WHAT HAS INFLUENCED YOUR WORK THE MOST OVER THE PAST COUPLE OF YEARS?

Picking up a camera and getting behind the lens has really influenced & challenged me. Pairing it all back to simplistic form has been a huge thing for me, particularly in the wake of the internet artists that have emerged and some of the distortion I see through the overuse of product and ‘painting by numbers’ so to speak.

4. WHO ARE YOUR FAVOURITE COMPANIES TO WORK FOR WHEN DOING SESSION MAKE UP

My favourite companies/brands that comprise a big part of my makeup kit for session makeup are: • PROOF cosmetics • INGLOT • MODELROCK Lashes and Cosmetics • BECCA • BOBBI BROWN, • NARS to LAURA MERCIER, • KEVYN AUCOIN to ELLIS FAAS

5. ALL TIME FAVOURITE PRODUCTS

PROOF PRO Gel eyeshadows & waterproof mascara (I will never do a make up without them) Laura Mercier Illuminating Tinted Moisturiser & Secret Camouflage Concealer Duo Bobbi Brown Bronzing Gel RCMA No-Colour Setting Powder, MODELROCK Lashes Double Individual Lashes.

MAC ‘Give Me Sun’ Bronzer

6. WHAT IS YOUR SIGNATURE TECHNIQUE OR LOOK?

Over the years, my signature look has developed as “Effortless Glamour”, achieved through fit looking skin, nothing that looks ‘surface’, rather utilising light and balance to beautify not distort.

I love great tight lines on the eyes that get smudged out and sealed with a trio of eye colour to give allure and a lived in look.

Beauty Biz Year 9 Issue 5

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‘HIGH TECH’ STILL NEEDS ‘HIGH TOUCH’!

By Julie Cross

We live in a ‘High Tech’ world… no doubt about it and that is OK. Yes, we should embrace it, we should learn how to use it, we should celebrate it and we should be excited about how it can add value to the services that we give everyday.

BUT, we should always remember that we need some ‘High Touch’ with that! You see you can spend thousands of dollars upgrading your computer systems to assist you in serving your customers better, you can spend more money training your people how to use these great new high tech systems and you can excite them about how they are going to improve service in your organisation and make everything more efficient…

But, if when that customer walks in nobody looks up from that computer and smiles at them then what was it all for?

You just missed out on connecting with the client, you just missed the ‘High Touch’ moment to impress, delight and win your client… no system required, just some genuine human touch.

You can spend thousands of dollars on all of those fancy pieces of equipment that you have to assist you in providing world-class treatments for your clients. They may be the best of the best and there may be nothing else like them in your area. BUT, unless you communicate all of that with me as your client, unless you dress up all of that stuff that equipment does in language that takes me on the journey of understanding what the benefit is to me as your client then it was all a big waste of money.

You can spend more money on fancy products that have the best ingredients with proven results, the most innovative, break through research, the most effective. BUT, unless you first connect with me and let me feel that you actually care about me, because I don’t care what you know until I know you care, and then unless you can take all the knowledge you have in your head about those products and present them to me in a way that I get why I should, use them and own them then they just look like really expensive products to me.

You can send your team to all kinds of product training events (and you should), for them to have their heads filled with all kinds of information about advanced ingredients and techniques, BUT unless we also inspire them to take that information, fold in their passion and purpose and delight and inspire the clients about the direct benefits for them then all of that high tech information is of no use and so often just stays in their heads.

You can employ the best business coach that helps you develop the best ‘Policy and Procedure’ manual ever! And you should. BUT, be careful that you don’t policy and procedure the personality out of your business. Your team still need to be able to ‘think’ and ‘feel’ beyond the policy and procedures.

Your team still need to know how to connect beyond our ‘policy’ to touch people’s hearts. I can’t tell you how often I have heard. And as leaders we need to know how to do the same to our team members.

I was having dinner at a restaurant and our waitress was Pamela… she connected with us with her smiling face and she inspired us to buy with her passionate knowledge about the menu… and when we finished she bought us our ‘High Tech’ computer generated bill. Now you may have noticed that computer generated dockets often have a ‘Thank you’ typed at the bottom… now do any of us look at that and feel our hearts touched but that thank you? No, I think not. However when Pamela flipped over that bill and wrote a personal message of thanks on the back… well that sure did touch our hearts and inspire a tip!

It is not rocket science, it doesn’t necessarily take any more time to do and is not hard to do, very simply it is about always adding more of ‘us’ into each interaction. Because you see, our winning service advantage looks at us in the mirror each morning, it is without a doubt, YOU! So, let us never forget, people buy from people, and people want somebody to solve their problems not something… in a ‘High Tech’ world it will be those staying in touch with ‘High Touch’ that will come out winners!

MAJOR SPONSOR OF THE

OLIVIA NEWTON-JOHN GALA BALL 2016

ZHAV INTERNATIONAL

AUSTRALIAN BEAUTY WHOLESALER Zhav International is a well known beauty wholesaler specializing in High Tec Beauty Equipment, outsanding training and the latest innovation in Stem Cell Technology Skin Care. Yaffa Zhav, CEO of Zhav International, is very passionate about working with charities both in SA and nationally. She regularly donates beauty treatment gift vouchers to help raise money for a good cause.

This year she was accepted as a Bronze Sponsor for the Olivia Newton-John Gala Ball which was held at the Crown Casino in Melbourne. Yaffa also regularly donates Gift Bags with samples of her Chemical Free Skin Care to Women undergoing Cancer treatments, such as the Olivia Newton-John Austin Hospital and Cancer centres in Adelaide. Yaffa also offers free rejuvenating facials to women who have just started chemotherapy at hospitals in Adelaide. She is passionate about helping women to both feel and look good, giving them the positivity that they need to help them get through their chemotherapy treatments. Yaffa believes that all business should be giving back to the community and helping people in need.

This year, Yaffa Zhav is introducing a new line of skin care from the Argan Tree. The line is based on Stem Cell Technology and natural ingredients for texture and preservation, hence without Parabens, Propylene Glycol, Mineral

Oil, Petrolatum etc.

The new range has been a success story as clients are loving the results. According to Yaffa Zhav, a top skin specialist Dr in Israel is recommending the range to her clients.

Zhav International’s latest innovation is the miracle “Anti-Ageing Wrinkle Filler” which helps to improve fine lines without cosmetic injections. To be used at home after a non surgical face lift treatment. The “AntiAgeing Wrinkle Filler” contains Hydrolysed Collagen from the Coconut Plant helping to diminish wrinkles long term, Dermaxyl to repair and reconstruct the skin and Hylauronic Filling Spheres to hydrate the skin.

Zhav International is also launching the Yaffa Zhav Collagen Booster, an all natural lip treatment. The Collagen Booster contains added Vitamin C plus Organic Plant Extracts from Black Currant, Jojoba, Sea-buckthorn and Tea Tree Oil, healing, soothing and moisturizing. Also Containing MaxiLip™: to increase collagen production, helping to reduce lines and promotes long term fullness and moisture.

According to Yaffa, Zhav International has recently sold their Zhav Dynamic Lift, one of their many High Tec Beauty devices along with their Stem Cell Technology skin care to a Doctor who is now providing a range of new treatments to her patients after trying a sample and seeing the results.

For a sample of any of Zhav Internationals products or for further information contact 08 8362 0222 email info@zhav.com.au or visit www.zhav.com.au

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BUSINESS

RESIGNATIONS IN THE BUSINESS Resignations often occur when there is a break down in the employment relationship or an employee leaves to pursue further career goals. Generally a resignation is a termination initiated by an employee and is a voluntary end to the employment relationship. However there are many aspects that both employees and employers should consider.

Should an employee resign it is best to request that they outline this in a written document such as a letter, detailing the notice period and their last day of work.

This will ensure the intention to resign is registered but also that the employee has taken the time to consider their resignation.

There are many aspects surrounding resignations which could be considered, particularly in determining if a resignation is in fact a resignation; “That’s it I quit!” - Are resignations in the heat of the moment final?

Occasionally an employer and an employee may find themselves in a heated argument. Under employment law, these situations are referred to as occurring ‘in the heat of the moment’ and do not necessarily count as the end of the employment relationship between the parties.

Employers should exercise caution if an employee resigns after or during an argument.

Many cases which have gone through the court systems have outlined that the employer is responsible to clarify whether or not the employee has in fact resigned, despite very clear words stating so during an argument.

If an employer finds themselves in the position where an employee has resigned ‘in the heat of the moment’ the employer you should give the employee a ‘reasonable period of time’; one or two days at most, too explain they did not intend to resign and that they would like to remain in their job.

If the employee retracts the resignation the employer cannot pursue a termination route without performance management as this may lead to an unfair dismissal remedy. Should the employee reiterate the intention to resign after a reasonable amount of time, or engages in actions which indicate resignation for example preparing a letter or returning salon property, it is 72

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likely that this is a valid resignation.

Employers are advised to document the argument which took place. When the employer contacted the employee to confirm the resignation and then follow this discussion with an acceptance letter.

The key consideration in this case is that employers should not assume a resignation is valid simply because the employee has declared a resignation shortly after an argument or outburst. Both employers and employees should be aware that they can kiss and make up after a split-second decision to quit or fire someone, if they want.

“If you don’t like it, leave” – Can you legally tell an employee to resign?

Constructive dismissal is most commonly seen as a forced resignation which occurs when the conduct or behaviour of the employer is viewed to be so harmful, adverse or unfriendly towards the employee that the employee cannot be expected to “put up” with the behaviour. Therefore when an employee resigns from their position it is important that this act is done without any undue pressure from the employer.

Constructive Dismissal is a form of unlawful termination of the contract of employment and employees may seek remedies through Fair Work. Employees are able to access unfair dismissal to seek a remedy if they feel they have been forced to resign. Therefore employers should avoid statements such as “we think you should start looking for another job” or “maybe it’s time to move on”.

HABA advises under no circumstance that an employer should suggest that an employee resign from their position. There are a number of common aspects which may lead to constructive dismissal.

DEMOTION

A demotion in duties may be viewed as constructive dismissal if there is a significant reduction in the employee’s remuneration or duties with the employer. This is often due to the fact that a demotion alters and modifies the initial contract of employment and can arguably leave the employee with no choice but to resign from their position.

FUTURE INTENTION TO RESIGN

If an employee indicates they have an intention to resign in the future, the employer cannot assume this is a current intention to resign from the position. Therefore you cannot assume your employee has resigned. Employers need to ensure they do not treat their employee any differently or adversely if they have mentioned their intention to resign. Any change in behaviour which may lead to an early resignation would constitute constructive dismissal. Changes would include an alteration to hours, privileges or duties.

WHAT CAN AN EMPLOYEE DO IF THEY ARE CONSTRUCTIVELY DISMISSED?

If any of the above is suspected in an employee’s resignation, the employee may elect to go through an unfair dismissal process to seek compensation for their loss of employment.

Unfair dismissal is accessible to employees who have completed at least 6 months service if the business is a large employer or 12 months service if the business has less than 15 employees. This includes casuals who are deemed to be regular and systematic, indicating a regular pattern of work and ongoing expectation of work after a 12 month time period.

Need clarification call Hair & Beauty Australia on 1800 997 795 or visit www. hairandbeautyaustralia.com.au

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BUSINESS

HAS YOUR SALON GOT ITS FACE ON?

By Lisa Conway

When did you last stand across the street from your salon and peer across to see what passersby see? When did you last walk into your salon through the front door rather than the rear entrance?

If it’s been a while, you’re missing a huge opportunity to view your business through the eyes of your clients … and your prospective clients. Known in business parlance as the “outsidein perspective”, this approach can be applied to every touchpoint of your salon, whether you’re working in hairdressing, beauty or any other industry. For now, let’s just focus on your salon’s “face” – your external window to the world.

As a business coach, it’s my role to be honest. Sometimes I have to be brutal, like your unreasonable best friend who says, “Yes, your bum does look big in those jeans!” Unless I’m absolutely honest with my salon-owner clients, I’m not doing my job. From your service delivery to the cleanliness of your salon, a good coach will critique what you do and how you do it, and give you advice on what you can tweak to make things better.

But you can learn to see some of these things for yourself. You just need to develop awareness.

Sometimes it’s hard to see what’s right in front of us. We get conditioned to what we see, hear, smell and touch every day. At ZING, we say: “you can’t see the forest for the trees”. What you need to do is to set a deliberate intention. In this case, you need to do an inspection or audit.

Tomorrow morning, I want you to take your entire team out the front of your salon, each with a pen and paper. Venture across the road and gaze back. Walk the strip in front of your shopfront.

Look at your window (not just through it). Look up.

Look down. Look in. Ask everyone to write down what they see, what they’d notice if they were a client or a passerby. You might be surprised by the results. Chances are your “shopfront” is not in tip-top shape.

I did this exercise recently with one of my star clients. She has a cracking business and is kicking goals but unfortunately, from the outside, her salon was saying something different. It screamed: “I’m tired and worn out! Help me!”

Dust, a tattered doormat, an A-frame that needed replacing and makeup handprints on the front door (I’m still not sure how this even happens).

She was astonished by what she and her team saw.

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What does the front of your salon say about what you do inside? Does it reflect the quality and service you offer? What’s screaming out to be scrapped, changed or added to? What could do with a spruce-up or simply a clean?

It’s critical to present your hair or beauty salon in a way that’s inviting to your guests. You want to portray your business in a positive light from every aspect. You want it to say, loud and clear: “Come inside. You’ll be welcomed and well looked after here. We know what we’re doing.

We’re serious about our business. We care.”

I get to see some of the best salons in Australia and they not only bring their A-game with the service and experience they offer, they also ensure that a client’s first impression of their salon is incredible. When I owned my salon I worked hard on making impressions count, even when I wasn’t there. At the end the day when I switched off the lights, I’d leave just a couple glowing inside through the night. I wanted the salon interior to be visible for window shoppers or anyone who was curious.

Of an evening when I’m out and about I always find myself face up to the window of shops checking them out. Not catering to the afterdark impression is one of the greatest missed opportunities of our industry. After you close-up,

it’s show time. Dog walkers, local dinner trade, people sitting in traffic – they all peer into your salon and form an opinion about your business based on what they see.These days, people don’t even have to venture outside to see how your salon shapes up on street appeal. Have you ever considered the savvy prospective client who clicks through to Google Street View to check you out? Does what they see stack up to the sleek and styled image you’re projecting on Facebook and Instagram?

As I say to salon teams in training sessions, you must always be photo-ready, dressed to impress.

Present yourself, your team and your services in a ready-for-action fashion. What do I mean? If someone was to pull their phone out and ask for a group shot, you’re ready to go – you don’t need to run out the back, do your hair and put your face on. Your salon needs to be photo-ready at all times, too. It needs to have its face on, day and night!

Jay is a specialist ZING salon coach. For more salon wisdom, email ZING at lisa@zingcoach. com.au, visit the website, find video tips on YouTube or read ZING leader Lisa Conway’s brand new book: Your Salon Team – the salon owner’s guide to finding, motivating and keeping great staff. www.zingcoach.com

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