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o my mind, no amount of intelligent design or charming service can compensate for a meal where the food served is disappointing, lackluster or pretentious. Over the last 50 years, there was been an extraordinary increase in our knowledge and appreciation of food: internet, social network, foreign travel, books, magazines and television have all contributed to this greater awareness. In Florida, it has long been the case that any decent-sized town will have a fair smattering of Indian, Portuguese and Japanese or Chinese restaurants, alongside fish and
chips bars, trattorias, bistros, pizza parlors and Mexican/latin places. Even in countries where cooking tra-ditions are more firmly established, there are signs of bordering horizons. At the worst extreme, this represents nothing more than the further encroachment of the ubiquitous “Golden Arches”; at best, an intelligent and enthusiastic reappraisal of traditional dishes that sensitively updates them using ingredients and cooking techniques borrowed from other cultures. In our global melting pot there is an abundance of rich and exciting flavours. The Team of Looking for Something
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WITHOUT GOOD FOOD,WHAT IS A RESTAURANT?
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EDITORIAL Editor Pablo Bouquet Managing Editor Patrick Ardiles Web Director Sonia Pereira Graphic Design RPM Agência Digital Gonzalo Restrepo Illustrator David Hernando Arriscado Photographer Klaus Min Distribution Bobby ‘Don’ Tacon Spiritual leader Progo
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STAFF Publisher Pablo Bouquet Associate Publisher Vini Bouquet Administrative Director Sonia Pereira
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Pizzaiolo Paulo Souza
t says two-thirds of the restaurants they reviewed mistook the ingredients or the preparations. Italians are very proud of their cooking and their recipes, rooted in many different regions and traditions. But when they travel, most stay well away from Italian food and with good reason: some 60% of Italian restaurants abroad are awful, the academy says. E SF The Italian Academy of Cooking was founded in 1953 to protect the reputa-
tion of Italian cuisine. Since then, millions of Italians have emigrated, taking with them their recipes to every part of the world.
Recipes betrayed But, these days, Italian cooking is not always authentic. In some takeaway restaurants the classic pizza has mutated into pineapple cocktails and the spaghetti is often a poor stringy impersonation of the real thing, the academy says.
Benito Fiore, who reviewed 320 British Italian restaurants, says only 20 were of a high standard, while 200 were poor. Mr Fiore says there are very simple reasons why so many are failing. "The restaurant is not owned by an Italian person. The second chef is usually not Italian," he begins. "The restaurant manager is not Italian and they don't use mainly Italian produce and they don't serve Italian wines," he adds.
Whether it's ragu, tiramisu or plain old pasta, the original recipes are often betrayed. Many chefs outside the country are changing and adapting dishes to local tastes. The academy says it welcomes this innovation and it praises some "commendable" efforts to improve traditional Italian cuisine. But the general conclusion of this report is that Italian food abroad just does not taste like Mamma's
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L AU NC H E D A S C AT H I N G AT TAC K O N T H E STANDARD OF ITALIAN RESTAURANTS ABROAD
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THE ITALIAN ACADEMY OF COOKING HAS
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THE WONDERFUL WORLD OF PASTA
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taly is famous for its passion and style, so it’s a little disappointing to discover that the Italian word “pasta” just means “paste”. “ Paste” hardly does justicie to the astonishing diversity of pasta. Yet in its simplest form, pasta is nothing more than flour and water, with more elaborate types including egg yolk for richness, vegetable juices for color or even certain spices or herbs for extra flavor. Pasta comes in dried or fresh form and in an extraordinary variety of shapes and sizes. These range from cute bow-
ties (farfalle), stubby tubes (penne), tiny rice shapes (risoni) and long, graceful strands (linguine, fettuccine or spaghetti, to name but a few) to large, broad sheets (lasagne). Pasta can form the basis of a thick, nourishing soup. Minestrone is a classic; but other delicious possibilities are bean soup with sausage and pasta, or ratatouille and pasta soup. Pasta can make for simple, unfussy eating, paired with easy combinations such as spinach and bacon, peas and prosciutto or rocket and mushrooms, or even just some garlic, parsley and a squeeze of lemon.
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NIGELLA LAWSON Nigella has been teaching us about the pleasures of the table since her first book, How to Eat, hit the shelves in 1998. She has since published several best-selling cookery books, many complementing an accompanying television series, and has become known for her sensual descriptions of her dishes. Nigella studied Medieval and Modern Languages at Oxford, and went on to work as a publisher, becoming deputy literary editor of The Sunday Times. She then pursued a successful career as a freelance journalist, during which time her work was published in significant culinary and lifestyle magazines around the world. Nigella was voted author of the year at the 2001 British Book Awards. In 2001 she was awarded – but turned down – an OBE from Her Majesty the Queen for services to journalism and cookery.
French chef and restaurateur known for introducing and championing a lighter style of cooking. Scion of a long line of restaurateurs, Bocuse apprenticed under several prominent chefs before taking over the family’s failing hotel-restaurant in Collonges, near Lyon, in 1959. Before long he had attracted much attention with his innovative nouvelle cuisine, a style of cooking that emphasized lightly cooked vegetables, sparing use of dressings and sauces made from materials low in fats, and artfully simple presentation. Bocuse’s abandonment of many conventions of traditional grande cuisine won many followers among younger chefs, and nouvelle cuisine soon appeared in many variants, especially in France and the United States. Bocuse’s own restaurant was rated three stars by the influential Guide Michelin.
DANIEL BOULUD
Daniel Boulud is a French chef and restaurateur with restaurants in New York City, Las Vegas, Palm Beach, Miami, Montreal, Toronto, London, Singapore, and Boston. He is best known for Daniel, his eponymous, Michelin 2-star restaurant in New York City. While raised on a farm outside of Lyon and trained by renowned French chefs, Boulud made his reputation
PAUL BOCUSE
in New York, first as a chef and most recently a restaurateur. His management company, The Dinex Group, currently includes six restaurants and Feast & Fкtes Catering. His restaurants include Daniel, DB Brasserie, Cafe Boulud, DB Bistro Moderne, Bar Boulud, DBGB Kitchen & Bar, and Boulud Sud in New York City. He has also created Cafe Boulud in Palm Beach.
www.looking4online.com/news classified olive oil is refined, often using heat and chemicals to aid extraction, then blended.
INSURANCE
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nlike other oils, which are a higher acidity level and not such a fruity extracted from the seeds flavour. It, too, can be used as a condior dried fruits of plants, ol- ment, but is also suitable for cooking. Unive oil is pressed from the pulp of ripe olives, which give it an inimitable richness and flavour. Besides being polyunsaturated and a natural fat, making it a healthy alternative to many other fats, olive oil is valued for its fine, nutty flavour. Italy, France and Spain produce some of the best, and different regions produce distinctively different olive oils. The production of olive oil is strictly controlled and regulated, rather like wine. The richest and best oils come from the first cold pressing of the olives, with no further processing, producing a rich green “extra virgin” oil. It must have an acidity level of less than 1 per cent. The distinctive fruity flavour of this oil makes it ideal for salad dressings and using raw. Virgin oil is pressed in the same way, but is usually from the second pressing, but has
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ONE OF THE MEDITERRANEANS’S MOST IMPORTANT INGREDIENTS HAS BEEN CALLED LIQUID GOLD
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7 tips for eating healthily at restaurants Sticking to a healthy diet doesn't mean you have to avoid dining out. Here are eight tips for eating healthy at a restaurant cream or butter in there and if they say they believe so, ask them to check, because that can make the difference of a few hundred calories,” says Reisman. “If you don’t ask, you really don’t know what you’re getting. I’ve seen restaurants where they cook the bacon and use the fat for dressing!”
Watch your sides While rice dishes—think steamed white rice or rice pilaf—are better than their heavier counterparts, such as risotto, they can still be calorie landmines. “Rice is a good spot to hide a lot of oil and butter,”
Start your meal right
DINING OUT THE HEALTHY WAY Whether you're sitting down to a quick brunch or a multicourse dinner at a restaurant, navigating the menu can be a challenge—especially if you're trying to eat healthy. But with a few dining-out secrets, you don't have to miss out on a meal at your favourite spot. “Sometimes people avoid restaurants when they’re watching their weight and that doesn’t need to happen,” says Rose Reisman, a nutritional consultant and author of Rose Reisman’s Family Favourites, who developed a healthy eating menu for the Pickle Barrel chain of restaurants in Ontario. “You should be able to eat out every day and still be able to watch your weight.” Read on to find out how to dine out with your health in mind.
Make the right choice “The fancier the restaurant you go to, the less you get, which is better for you,” says Reisman. “Standard Italian restaurants or American restaurants are usually giving you double to triple the protein and carbs you need. Your plate should be 50 percent vegetables, 25 percent protein and 25 percent grains.” When it comes to ethnic food, Japanese, Thai, Greek and Indian restaurants are often easier on the waistline than Mexican, Chi-
nese or Italian establishments because they feature grilled meats, non-fried options such as fresh spring rolls and guiltfree dips like Tzatziki. You'll also find healthy sushi rolls at Japanese establishments—but always pick lowsodium soy sauce to dip your rolls in.
Learn the lingo Gina Sunderland, a registered dietician in Winnipeg, advises clients to scan the menu for loaded words such as “panfried,” “crispy,” “dipped,” “scalloped,” “gratin,” and “alfredo.” “Dishes with those words have a lot of hidden fat and sodium in there,” she says. Instead, green light orders with words such as “grilled,” “steamed” and “baked.” “And I always tell people to read through the entire menu, rather than just settling on your favourite item right away. Explore the menu to see what your options are,” says Sunderland.
Know your cuts You’re craving some meat, so a hearty salad won’t do for dinner. Instead, pick leaner cuts of meat—a flank steak or filet mignon over a hulking rib-eye. Or opt for chicken breast-based dishes versus one with chicken thighs. Bonus points for skinless breasts—one chicken breast with the skin has eight grams more fat than without the skin.
Kick your meal off with a tomato- or stock-based soup (rather than a calorie-rich creambased one), or a salad. “And you don’t need to order diet dressings. Just ask for it on the side and apply no more than two tablespoons,” says Reisman. “To compare, they usually give you about 1/4 to 1/3 cup of dressing, which is about six tablespoons.”
Don't be afraid to ask questions Ask the waiter questions about how the food is prepared if you’re not clear. “Often waiters might, for example, say a soup is a lovely purée. Ask if there’s
says Reisman. “I usually go for baked potato with a little dollop of sour cream, because it’s usually full fat. Get a bit of grated cheese and green onions on the potato and it’s fabulous.”
Tame your sweet tooth If you’re not in the mood for sharing, pick lower-calorie dessert choices such as sorbets or non-dairy gelatos. “Or instead of getting a dessert, get a skim milk latte to sip over a period of time and keep the conversation going,” says Sunderland. “You want to patronize the restaurant and not just sit there, so reframe how you end the meal.”
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THE LATINO FLAVORS L
atino foods are the historical product of encounters between peoples from many lands. Some of these meetings took place in the distant past; for example, Spanish settlers and missionaries were exchanging foodstuffs and recipes with Indian women in New Mexico and Florida decades before the first Pilgrim Thanksgiving at Plymouth.
commonly as a marker of inauthentic foods, it more properly refers to the regional cooking of Mexicans living in Texas. Such borderland specialties as carne asada (grilled beef) and wheat flour tortillas established the initial images of Mexican food in the U.S. More recent migration has introduced a much wider range of recipes from throughout Latin America.
Other encounters have been more recent, as with the arrival of Afro-Caribbean and ChineseCuban migrants to New York City, who imparted Latino influences to the "soul food" of the Harlem Renaissance in the 1920s and 1930s. Latino foods thus grew out of the migrations of diverse people from the Americas, Europe, Africa, and Asia. Their history has b e e n shaped
Restaurant goers with a taste for carne asada can also sample the diverse cuts of grilled meat that are called parrilla in Argentina and Uruguay or churrasco in Brazil. Connoisseurs likewise have learned to distinguish the regional tamales of Mexico and the Caribbean basin, not to mention Bolivian, Ecuadoran, and Peruvian humintas (baked corn tamales), Salvadoran pupusas (stuffed tortillas), Venezuelan and Colombian arepas (maize griddlecakes), and countless other dishes that are now available in the U.S.
by the common experience of Iberian culture that spread widely in the centuries after Columbus. But despite these global trajectories, Latino foods have taken root in particular places and nourished communities
of people in the territory that is now the U.S. This nation and its foods are products of the fusion between the global and the local, and Latinos form a significant chapter in that history. Yet narrow views of Latino
foods as being only Mexican or Tex-Mex are a pervasive m i s u n d e rstanding. Although the term Tex-Mex has been used
the hint of the salt it has been preserved in; fresh seafood, plucked directly from the oceans surrounding the Iberian Peninsula; rice, brought by the Moors and used extensively throughout the country, most popularly in the ibicuos paella. The food of Spain, like the land itself, from mountains top of Colombia or Peru, to its long stretches of beach, straddles great culinary distances, from the slow-roasted suckling lamb of Mexico to the humble tortilla de papas found in every bar in Buenos Aires. And so, as they say in Spain, “buen provecho!!”.
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ith such an abundance of fresh produce, meat, seafood, spices and herbs from around the world, this cuisine is nothing if not a fantastic amalgamation of some of the best tastes and flavours available. These recipes feature some of the more traditional of the Spanish ingredients: olives and the oil they produce, from the mild, light oils to the heavier, richer varieties; sherry, fine and light , or of a darker hue with a richer flavour and texture; bacalao, popular in the Basque country, which, if cured and prepared properly, will emerge smooth, firm and white, with
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T h e t h r e e m a j o r i n f l u e n ce s o n t h e c u i s i n e o f a co u n t r y a r e i t s g e o g ra p h y, i t s h i s t o r y a n d i t s p e r s o n a l i t y. N ow h e r e i s t h i s m o r e c l e a r l y s e e n t h a n i n t h e f o o d o f S p a i n .
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THE FOOD OF SPAIN
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TEX-MEX FOOD I
n USA and to a lesser extent in Europe, a number of restaurant chains specializing in Mexicanand Tex-Mex food have been established. TexMex restaurants tend to offer burgers and steaks alongside predominantly tortilla-based dishes, so it is not surprising that many people perceived these as being all that Mexico has to offer. Parts of the United States , such as southern California, Texas and Florida, have large communities of Mexicans and offer some of the best Mexican food. The Mexican cuisine in these areas has evolved over the time to please the palates of local residents. Authentic Mexican ingredients are used, but American products are as well. This style of cooking is often referred to as “fusion”, the combining of ingredients and flavors from several cultures in one dish, a practice that carries with it the real danger of diluting each country’s contribution and distorting the dinners perceptions of each cuisine. In Treasure Coast there is an increasing number of small restaurants serving authentic dishes from all over Mexico. A welcome trend indeed.
The spice trade developed throughout South Asia and Middle East in around 2000 BCE with cinnamon and pepper, and in East Asia with herbs and pepper. The Egyptians used herbs for embalming and their demand for exotic herbs helped stimulate world trade. The word spice comes from the Old French
the Egyptian port city of Alexandria being the main trading center for spices. The most important discovery prior to the European spice trade were the monsoon winds (40 CE). Sailing from Eastern spice cultivators
to Western European consumers gradually replaced the landlocked spice routes once facilitated by the Middle East Arab caravans.
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introduced to Europe in the 6th century BCE. Indonesian merchants traveled around China, India, the Middle East, and the east coast of Africa. Arab merchants facilitated the routes through the Middle East and India. This resulted in
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Early history
word espice, which became epice, and which came from the Latin root spec, the noun referring to "appearance, sort, kind": species has the same root. By 1000 BCE, medical systems based upon herbs could be found in China, Korea, and India. Early uses were connected with magic, medicine, religion, tradition, and preservation. Archaeological excavations have uncovered clove burnt onto the floor of a kitchen, dated to 1700 BCE, at the Mesopotamian site of Terqa, in modern-day Syria. The ancient Indian epic Ramayana mentions cloves. The Romans had cloves in the 1st century CE, as Pliny the Elder wrote about them. In the story of Genesis, Joseph was sold into slavery by his brothers to spice merchants. In the biblical poem Song of Solomon, the male speaker compares his beloved to many forms of spices. Generally, early Egyptian, Chinese, Indian, and Mesopotamian sources do not refer to known spices.[ Historians believe that nutmeg, which originates from the Banda Islands in South Asia, was
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spice is a seed, fruit, root, bark, berry, bud or vegetable substance primarily used for flavoring, coloring or preserving food. Spices are distinguished from herbs, which are parts of leafy green plants used for flavoring or as a garnish. Many spices have antimicrobial properties. This may explain why spices are more commonly used in warmer climates, which have more infectious disease, and why the use of spices is prominent in meat, which is particularly susceptible to spoiling. A spice may have other uses, including medicinal, religious ritual, cosmetics or perfume production, or as a vegetable.
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WHAT'S THE BEST WAY TO LEARN ABOUT WINE?
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here comes a time in most of our lives when we realize it might be time to leave the cheap wine jugs of our early 20s behind. But the world of wine can be ridiculously daunting, and it's tough to know where to begin. To give you a head start on your wine education, we asked 12 experts what advice they would give to a beginner looking to learn about wine. They also gave us some tips on how to get past the challenge of finding classic wines that aren't super expensive. Take it away, sommeliers! "I often suggest having a dinner party with a themed wine selections, e.g. if the topic is Pinot Noir, make sure all the guests come with a bottle of Pinot Noir from all different regions. That way, everyone gets to try multiple samples of the 'themed wine,' without
having to bear the whole financial burden."— Arthur Hon (Sepia Chicago) "I think if you take a little time while you're drinking wine to grab a book and do a little research on the region or the grape, that's a great way to learn. It's also fun to drink a bunch of wines from one region and really get to know it." — Jason Wagner (Henri, The Gage Chicago) "Find a wine bar, or a cool restaurant, and start to be a regular. The staff will more than probably start to have you try a lot of different things— then find a good wine shop, and build a relationship with the people there. These shops may organize a lot of wine tastings, where you will try wines you can't afford yourself! And if you are really really motivated with no experience, the best way to have access to these wines
is to become a cellar rat in a wine restaurant! Finally, I really like the Guild of Sommeliers website—really an wonderful community, a unique data base of information—for less than $100 a year, you can find all of the information you need."— Pascaline Lepeltier (Rouge Tomate, NYC) "Thankfully the best way to learn is to taste. For me understanding body and weight is the first building block. I recommend asking your local merchant of web resource for some full bodied and light bodied wines in both red and white categories. If you can pop two bottles at once I always suggest tasting wines side by side as it will magnify the differences between wines. Another great way to drink more wines you like while exploring is to find an importer you like. If you fall in love with a wine make a note
of the importer on the back label. An importer is like a curator so it's likely that other wines in their portfolio will exhibit similar winemaking philosophies and the same level of quality."— Brian Smith (Club W) "Form a tasting group. It's much easier and cost effective to taste with others. In college we all threw in a couple bucks for beer money, now we throw in a couple bucks for great wines. Get a group of 4 or 5 likeminded people that are thirsty for knowledge. If everyone throws in $25 you've got $125 to spend. Then find a wine shop with a great selection of half bottles and you should be able to get 6 classic wines and everyone gets enough to taste. Do that once a week and over the course of the year you'll get to taste more than 250 classic
wines."— Sabato Sagaria MS (The Little Nell Hotel, Aspen) "My advice for beginners is to taste frequently, and always with a notebook. Disciplined note-taking makes you more alert and alive to your own developing taste, far more than following someone else's guide."— Jeremy Quinn (Telegraph,, Reno, Bluebird, Webster's Wine Bar Chicago) "To learn about wine, you just have to experience as much as possible. Go to tastings whenever you can and ask questions. When dining out,
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"As far as finding reasonably-priced classic wines, the best shortcut is to follow experts. I'd say the most widely-available is Decanter Magazine. You can trust these guys. In classic areas of, say, Northern Rhone, Southern Rhone, or Burgundy, you have to get off the standard path. You can still find classic wines but it's not going to be Cote-Rotie, Chateauneuf-
de-Pape, or ChambolleMusigny Premier Cru Village. Instead of Cote Rotie; go for the wine of Vienne. As far as Chateauneuf, there are a multitude of villages around it that have very similar styles: Sablet, Seguret, Vacqueyras. And for Burgundy, you have to go for secondary villages instead of the standard choice, but the options are there; for instance the vil-
lage of St. Aubin, for white or red. Reds are incredibly rare (in both planting and quality), but one can generally find quality reds in the 1ers Cru of Les Frionnes, or Sur le Sentier du Clou."— Scott Cameron (Atera, NYC) "Read wine books, blogs, and publications. Also, taste as much and often as possible. Most importantly, have an open mind."— Patrick Cappiello (Pearl & Ash, NYC)
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the concepts home."— Emily Wines MS (Kimpton Hotels and Restaurants ) "The best way to learn about wine is to drink more! Tasting is the only way you are going to understand it better. The more you can taste the more you can relate to it. Also, visiting regions and wineries is a great way to not only taste wine but to familiarize yourself with geography."— Savanna Ray (Wildwood Restaurant, Portland OR) "There's no "best" way to do things but what has worked for me is to taste as often as you can and not just wine; food, beer, spirits, juices, jams...Really be thoughtful about what your senses are telling you. Wine is sometimes expensive, but not always. You can find classic examples of Sauvignon Blanc from areas other than Sancerre, like New Zealand or Quincy. Classically styled Albariño from Rias Baixas is still relatively inexpensive. You can even taste excellent versions of Merlot from Bordeaux by exploring the satellites of Pomerol and you likely won't pay more than $25."— Davis Smith (Acquerello, San Francisco)
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order a glass that you aren't familiar with. People tend to get into a rut of "I like..." or "I don't like..." There are plenty of wines that have surprised me from regions I haven't cared for or grapes that aren't my favorites. There are always wines you can afford that are classic examples of their region. You may not ever be able to afford 1st Growth Bordeaux. Most of us can't. But there are some Bordeaux Superieur wines out there that express the terroir and power of Bordeaux beautifully for someone learning about it, and they might only set you back $15 or $20."— Lara Creasy, beverage director at Ford Fry's Georgia Restaurants: No. 246 , King + Duke, et al.) "I recommend that all beginners start with the basics. To be honest, the best book is Wine For Dummies. It is so well written and reduces a massive amount of information down to the very basics. If you are beyond that then try Karen McNeil's Wine Bible. The best part about studying about wine is learning the unique stories associated with each place. Reading about the wines WHILE drinking them is sure to bring
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MEDITERRANEAN
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zure skies even blue seas, white-gold sands, bright, whitewashed walls, the vibrant reds, greens, yellows, purples and oranges of the flowers, fruit and vegetables on
display in the market — these are the plain palette colors of the Mediterranean. These evocative images are familiar to many of us, although, of course, we will not all be thinking of the same country
— after all, there are fifteen to considerer, surrounding the sea itself. A quick tour from the shores of Spain, Portugal to France, Italy, Greece, Turkey, Syria, Lebanon, Israel, and into Africa to
Egypt, Libya, Tunisia, Algeria and Marocco. The islands of Malta and Cyprus are truly Mediterranean, encircled by the sea.
wine, three componentes which are still very important in today’s Mediterranean diet.
senses. Fabulous arrays of tomatoes, aubergines, courgettes, peaches, figs, garlic and pungent herbs such as basil and thyme are tantalizingly displayed. To add to the experience the hot sun beats down, drawing out the flavours and scents. Mediterranean cooking depends on the fresh of ingredients; it is honest, simple and prepared with respect.
Centuries before Christ, the area surrounding the Mediterranean sea was colonized by the Phoenicians, Greeks and Romans, who shared the basic cultivation of wheat, olives and grapes. These, in turn, became bread, oil and
Open-air markets When thinking of Mediterranean food, however, it is the fresh fruit, vegetables and herbs which immediately spring to mind. Open-air markets from Marseilles to Morocco are a feast for the
ents filled out a questionnaire supplied from IDEFICS that defined the frequency with which 43 common foods were consumed. Dr. Tongon’s team gathered additional dietary data by interviewing a sample of parents from the IDEFICS study. Children were then scored on their adherence to foods considered to be staples of a Mediterranean diet, including fish, vegetables, fruits, cereal grains and nuts. A single point was given for every Mediterranean food group eaten, and another point was given if children had a low intake of foods not considered typical of the Mediterranean diet like meat and dairy. The results of Dr. Tognon’s study showed that children with a higher number of points were 10 to 15 percent less likely to be overweight or obese compared to children with a lower number of points. These children were also less likely to go through
major changes on the BMI scale or gain body fat. The study also showed that Italian children were the most likely to consume a Mediterranean diet and in Sweden, where the children had the highest frequencies
of intakes of cereal grains, fruit, nuts and vegetables. “The take home message,” Dr. Tognon said, “is that there is a need to recommend to children a
dietary pattern, particularly in the Mediterranean countries where people might still be convinced that they are following a diet like this, which is often not true anymore.”
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F
ile this under “no surprise:” A recent study from eight European countries has shown evidence that children who consume a Mediterranean diet may be 15 percent less likely to be overweight or obese. The results of the study conducted by Dr. Gianluca Tognon from the University of Gothenburg, Sweden were first presented at the European Congress on Obesity in Sofia, Bulgaria last June. Researchers examined data gathered from the IDEFICS study, a European project that lasted from September 2006 to February 2012 with the goal of assessing the problem of obesity in children. Data from IDEFICS included height, weight, body fat percentage and waist circumference from children in Spain, Italy, Cyprus, Germany, Belgium, Hungary, Estonia and Sweden. In relation to the children’s diets, par-
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MEDITERRANEAN DIET PROTECTIVE AGAINST OBESITY IN CHILDREN
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Round Fish
Tin Fish
This large group, which includes such familiar varieties as herring, cod, haddock, whiting, pollack, anchovy, sprat, sardine, grouper and mullet, are distinguished by having a rounded body, eyes on either side of the head and by swimming with their dorsal (back) fin on top. As well as bony fish, it includes cartilaginous species, such as
dogfish and shark. Salmon are included in this group, although part of their life cycle is spent in fresh water.
Flat Fish This group, which includes sole (lemon and Dover), plaice, dab,flounder, turbot and halibut, swim on one side and have both eyes on the same side of the head. Usually the lower, bin side is paler than the upper side of the fish. The shallow bodies of flat fish and their generally firm but tender and flavorful flesh make them ideal for grilling or sautéing
Freshwater fish Aside from trout, which nowadays is readily available as a farm fish, these are not so frequently seen as seawater fish. Favorite freshwater fish include bream, perch, St. Peter’s fish, char, pike,carp, catfish and eel.
Crustaceans This group covers all the aquatic creatures, both fresh and seawater, with five pairs of legs: lobsters, crab, shrimp, crayfish and crawfish. They tent to have firm, sweet flesh and many have heavy front
claws or pincers. The head and body are usually, but not invariably, enclosed in a though shell or carapace.
Shellfish This group includes singleshelled mollusks, such as the whelk and periwinkle, and the more popular bivalves, such as oysters, mussels, clams and scallops. It also includes the family to which squid, cuttlefish and octopus belong. Some shellfish, especially oysters, are usually eaten raw in their own juices from the shell.
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H
owever, from the cook’s point of view, the fish fall into three categories: round fish, flat fish (both sea types) and freshwater fish
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CAN BE ALMOST ANY SIZE AND COLOR FROM THE SOLITARY DEEP OCEAN TO THE HUGE COASTAL.
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TYPES OF FISH AND SEAFOOD
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The Maine Lobster T
he American lobster, Homarus americanus, is found on the east coast of North America, from Newfoundland to North Carolina, with Maine Lobster being among the most abundant and delicious. In 2011, Maine Lobster led the U.S. in landings with 104 million pounds, an incredible increase from 1989's record 24 million pounds. Besides the normal colored lobsters, Maine lobstermen have also discovered rare blue, yellow, red, and white ones. Aside from the white albino lobsters, all turn red when cooked. Lobsters grow by molting, they molt, or shed, their shells about 25 times in the first 5 years of life. No one has yet found a way to determine the exact age of a lobster because it sheds its shell so often. Lobsters “smell” their food by using four small antennae on the front of their heads and tiny sensing hairs that cover their bodies. The teeth of a lobster are in its stomach. The stomach
is located a very short distance from the mouth, and the food is actually chewed in the stomach between three grinding surfaces that look like molar teeth, called the “gastric mill”. Lobster blood is usually a gray or slightly blue color, but it can sometimes be orange, green, or light pink. A lobster egg is the size of the head of a pin. A 1-pound female lobster usually has between 8,000 to 12,000 eggs, which are attached to the underside of her tail. She carries the eggs for about a year until they are released as larvae. Only about 1/10 of one percent of those eggs will live past 6 weeks. It takes 4 to 7 years for a lobster to grow to legal size. The largest lobster in captivity is at the Maine State Aquarium in Boothbay Harbor. The huge live lobster weighs over 24 pounds and is estimated to be almost 100 years old. The aquarium is also home to a blue lobster, which are quite rare, approxi-
mately 1 in 1 million. Lobster is a $300 Million per year industry for Maine.
tion of Spain, but pork (which was prohibited under Muslim dietary laws) and shellfish did not. After the Moors left Spain in 1492, the Valencians' love for rice dishes lived on. As for that original recipe, one of the first printed versions of it appeared in 1840, but evidence suggests that the cooking of a rabbitsnail-bean-saffron "paella" (named after the wide, shallow steel pan in which such dishes were cooked) was by then a Valencian ritual; the dish was prepared in the countryside over an open fire of dried vines and orangetree branches, usually on
T
here's one thing that most paella enthusiasts in Spain seem to agree on: that the sunny, fluffy yellow rice dish served at Spanish restaurants all over the world, the version topped with red peppers and loaded with everything from shrimp to chorizo to lobster, is not the real thing. Real Spanish paella, which is to say Valencia-style paella—the dish originated in that eastern coastal Spanish city—is an altogether darker, richer, smokier creation: denser than a pilaf, drier than a risotto, and arguably more satisfying than either. But even in Valencia, as I discovered recently over the course of several visits, there's not much of a consensus regarding how this delicious dish, perhaps Spain's most famous, should be prepared and what should or shouldn't, go into it. True, there does exist a widely accepted original recipe, for a dish that has remained more or less constant through the ages. The original paella valenciana (see ** Paella with Rabbit and Snails**) probably dates to the early 1800s and consists of saffron-scented rice cooked with rabbit, chicken, local snails called vaquetes, and three types of beans: a broad string
bean called ferraura, a limalike dried bean called garrofo, and a white bean called tavella (which is hard to find outside of Spain). And, not surprisingly, you can find versions of the original paella valenciana all over town. But to travel to Valencia solely for that dish would be a mistake. Many restaurants serve a long list of paellas, including ones stocked with seafood and others made with seasonal vegetables and meats. Most of them are delicious; a few are sublime. Tinkering, it seems, is inherent to the culture of paella. The earliest kinds of paella were products of purely local ingredients and eating habits. The dish exists because of rice, and rice has existed in Valencia and its environs ever since the Moors planted it there more than 1,300 years ago, in a lagoon called the Albufera, where the grain is still grown today. Saffron, that precious and earthy spice, brought to Spain by Arab traders in the tenth century, was the Moors' preferred seasoning for rice, and it remains a traditional paella ingredient. Local game like rabbit, and foraged foods like snails, as well as various legumes and vegetables, found their way into rice dishes during the Moorish occupa-
Sundays, usually by the men of the family while the women were at church. Paella remained a regional food for a good long while. Back when that original paella recipe was first published, Spain wasn't a popular destination on the tourist track, and its cuisine was little known beyond its borders. But the 20th century— the century of Picasso, Dali, Buñuel—saw a burgeoning interest around the world in all things español. Epicures were eager to discover the country's rich, rustic flavors; in 1950, Elizabeth David, the cookbook writer who
delivered England from its wartime gastro-dreariness, published A Book of Mediterranean Food (John Lehmann), which included a recipe for paella containing the hitherto untraditional combination of chicken and shrimp. (By this time, coastal cooks in Valencia were probably making seafood-stocked paella a la marinera, but that recipe never includes meat.) Before long, gourmands in England, America, and beyond were serving all kinds of variants of the dish out of brightly colored Dansk paella pans along with goblets of sangria.
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SPAIN'S FAMED RICE DISH IS AN EVER-EVOLVING CREATION.
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THE ART OF PAELLA
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BBQ & Grill H
owever simple, there’s something about the charbroiled flavor of barbecued food that makes it taste extra special. Maybe it owes part of its appeal to the fresh air that sharpens the appetite and makes that tantalizing aroma so totally irresistible. There’s nothing new about cooking over charcoal; in fact it’s a method of cooking that has been used in most civilizations throughout history. The basic method has changed little over
the centuries, but many modern grills are very sophisticated, making the job easier, cleaner and more controllable. There are disputes over the origin of the word “barbecue”, but one explanation is that it comes from barbacoa, a Spanish-American word used by the Arawak tribe of the caribbean as the name for the wooden frame that held their food over an open fire as it cooked. The Arawaks were cannibals, so the food we cook today is rather different from
their offerings!! There’s something for every occasion, from family meals to entertaining: spicy, fruity and
exotic grills using fish, meat and poultry; easy sauces and marinates to turn basic ingredients into something
new and special. For vegetarians, there’s a lot of restaurants with innovative ideas that everyone will enjoy
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A
sian cuisine refers to any of several major regional cuisines, including East Asian, Southeast Asian, South Asian, Central Asian, and Middle Eastern. A cuisine is a characteristic style of cooking practices and traditions, usually associated with a specific culture. Asia, being the largest and most populous continent, is home to many cultures, many of which have their own characteristic cuisine.
Ingredients common to many cultures in the East and Southeast regions of the continent include rice, ginger, garlic, sesame seeds, chilies, dried onions, soy, and tofu. Stir frying, steaming, and deep frying are common cooking methods. While rice is common to most Asian cuisines, different varieties are popular in the various regions. Basmati rice is popular in the subcontinent, Jasmine rice is often found across the
southeast, while long-grain rice is popular in China and shortgrain in Japan and Korea.[2] Curry is a common dish in southern and southeastern Asia, however it is not as common in East Asian cuisines. Curry dishes with origins in India and other South Asian countries usually have a yogurt base while Southeastern and Eastern curries generally use coconut milk as their foundation.
urges cook to use a variety of different ways of preparing foods: simmering, grilling, and steaming being the most common as well as frying and aemono — the best translation is cooked salads.
The five senses, go kan The five colors, go shiki
preaches that every meal should have five colors: white,red, yellow, green, and black (including dark colors like purple and brown) to achieve a nutritious diet.
The five tastes, go mi
means that meal should contain a harmonious balance of saltiness,
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The five cooking methods, go hoo
must be stimulated, so not only taste, but smell, sight, sound and touch. In fact, taste is the last element of the five senses, while sight, or a visually pleasing presentation, is an important part of a meal. They have a saying in japanese that “we eat with your eyes.”
The f i v e outlooks, go kan mon are rules concerned with the partaking of food, and stem
from Buddhism, especially the demanding Zen sect where monks observe a strict vegetarian diet of shogun ryori. First, they instruct us to respect and be grateful for the efforts of all those who contributed to growing and preparing the food. Second, we must do good deeds worthy of receiving food. Third, we must come to the table in peace. Fourth, we should eat food for spiritual nourishment as well as physical well-being. Fifth, we must be earnest in our struggle to attain spiritual enlightenment.
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sourness, sweetness, bitterness and unami to stimulate, but never to overwhelm, the palate.
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T
he Japanese word washoku is used to distinguish japanese food from foreign-inspired food, know as yoshoku. It is no coincidence that the character wa represents peace, harmony and softness. The philosophy of washoku is encapsulated in the five principles—five colors, five tastes, five ways of cooking, five senses, and five outlooks. The first three principles cob=ver the practical elements of meal preparation, while the fourth principle defines the sensual elements of food; that is, that a food must appeal to all five senses, not just taste and smell. The final principle is more spiritual; it requieres us to respect and appreciate human endeavor and the forces of nature that provide for us.
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The History of Bars There have been many different names for public drinking spaces throughout history.
I
n the colonial era of the United States taverns were an important meeting place, as most other institutions were weak. During the 19th century saloons were very important to the leisure time of the working class. Today, even when an establishment uses a different name, such as "tavern" or "saloon", the area of the establishment where the bartender pours or mixes beverages is normally called "the bar." The sale and/or consumption of alcoholic beverages was prohibited in the first half of the 20th century in several countries, including Finland, Iceland, Norway, and the United States. In the United States, illegal bars during Prohibition were called speakeasies or blind pigs. Legal distinctions often exist between restaurants and bars, and even between types of bars. These distinctions vary from state to state, and even among municipalities. Beer bars (sometimes called taverns or pubs) are legally restricted to selling only beer, and possibly wine or cider. Liquor bars, also simply called bars, also sell hard liquor. Bars are sometimes exempt
from smoking bans that restaurants are subject to, even if those restaurants have liquor licenses. The distinction between a restaurant that serves liquor and a bar is usually made by the percentage of revenue earned from selling liquor, although increasingly, smoking bans include bars too. In most places, bars are prohibited from selling alcoholic beverages to go and this makes them clearly different from liquor stores. Some brewpubs and wineries can serve alcohol to go, but under the rules applied to a liquor store. In some areas, such as New Orleans and parts of Las Vegas and Savannah, Georgia, open containers of alcohol may be prepared to go. This kind of restriction is usually dependent on an open container law. In Pennsylvania and Ohio, bars may sell sixpacks of beer "to-go" in original (sealed) containers by obtaining a take-out license. New Jersey permits all forms of packaged goods to be sold at bars, and permits packaged beer and wine to be sold at any time onpremises sales of alcoholic beverages are allowed. During the 19th century, drinking establishments were called
saloons. In the American Old West the most popular establishment in town was usually the Western saloon. Many of these Western saloons survive, though their services and features have changed with the times. Newer establishments have sometimes been built in Western saloon style for a nostalgic effect. In American cities there were also numerous saloons, which allowed only male patrons and were usually owned by one of the major breweries. Drunkenness, fights and alcoholism made the saloon into a powerful symbol of all that was wrong with alcohol. Saloons were the primary target of the Temperance movement, and the Anti-Saloon League, founded in 1892, was the most powerful lobby in favor of Prohibition. When Prohibition was repealed, President Franklin D. Roosevelt asked the states not to permit the return of saloons. Many Irish- or British-themed "pubs" exist throughout United States and Canada and in some continental European countries. As of May, 2014, Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania had the most bars per capita in the United States.
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