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Roman architecture in the region of Nebbiu
Land of piety and devotion, Corsica is guided by christian religion for centuries. In the Nebbiu, this religious fervor is materialized by a triptych of places of worship, that have faced time with pride. Built during the Pax Pisana, between the 12th and 13th century, the Saint-Michel of Murato church, the chapel San Cesario de Rapale, and the chapel San-Nicolao d’Asigliani also called « A Chiesa Nera » (The Black Church), are all of roman architecture. Of a pisan style, these singular monuments offer a nicely made polychrome effect, due to the alternative use of white and green rectangular stones : the first ones are carved into serpentine, the second ones into limestone. Erected in the village of Murato, the church Saint-Michel is the most well-preserved and its location is making its particularity, offering a clear view on the gulf of Saint- Florent.
More imposing than the others, the bell relies on two cylindrical columns, making it an unmissable visit of the region. On the different facades, biblical scenes are sculpted in stone blocks. Many ornaments are about fundamental values, as justice, law, or religion.
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On the heights of Rapale, at more than 500 meters of altitude, is located the chapel San Cesario. Of a similar architecture, even if more modest without a bell tower, it is clearly run-down. The roof has disappeared for decades, resulting in part of the stones falling down from the walls. South direction, under the kindness of Monte Astu, the Chiesa Nera is the last edifice of the triptych. From Pieve or Murato, you will need to take pathways to go higher in altitude, to join the church. Even if it is in a state of ruin, a major part of the apse is still standing, as well as the sculpted lintel on the west facade. Straight after entering in this mystic place, a gaping hole in the ground is open onto the crypt, that doesn’t seem to disappear throughout the years.
Even if it is in a state of ruin, a major part of the apse is still standing, as well as the sculpted lintel on the west facade.
Text & Photos : Sébastien Leroy