Pakistan Textile Journal, April 2021 by Pakistan Textile Journal

Calendar of Events

Heimtextil 2022 ITMA ASIA + CITME 2021

Home Textiles Sourcing Exp

Dates: June 12th to 16th, 2021.

Dates: July 20th to 22nd 2021.

Venue: NECC, Shanghai, China.

Venue: New York

Cinte Techtextil China International Trade Fair for Technical Textiles and Nonwovens

Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics - Autumn Edition Dates: Aug 25th to 27th 2021.

Dates: January 11th to 14th 2022. Venue: Frankfurt am Main, Germany.

DOMOTEX Hannover 2022 Dates: January 13th to 16th 2022. Venue: Hannover, Germany.

Venue: Shanghai China.

Dates: June 22nd to 24th 2021 Venue: Shanghai New International Expo Centre, Shanghai, China

IGATEX Pakistan 2021, Lahore

Istanbul Yarn Fair

Dates: September 15th to 18st 2021.

Dates: February 22nd to 26th 2022. Venue: Istanbul, Turkey.

Venue: Expo Centre, Lahore.

Apparel Sourcing Paris Autumn Dates: July 5th to 9th 2021.

Index 2021

FILTECH 2022

Venue: Paris

Dates: September 7th to 10th, 2021.

Dates: March 8th to 10th, 2022

Venue: Palexpo, Geneva, Switzerland

Venue: Cologne, Germany.

INTEX SOUTH ASIA 2021 Dates: July 7th to 9th 2021. Venue: Colombo, Sri Lanka.

FESPA 2021 Dates: October 12th to 15th 2021.

ITM 2022

Venue: Amsterdam.

Dates: June 14th to 18th, 2022. Venue: Istanbul, Turkey.

Apparel Sourcing Paris Autumn Dates: July 5th to 9th 2021. Venue: Paris

Textile Asia 2021, Lahore Dates: October 22th to 24th 2021. Venue: Expo Centre, Lahore.

Textile Asia 2022, Karachi Dates: March 26th to 28th 2022. Venue: Expo Centre, Karachi.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - April 2021

ITMA 2023 Dates: June 8th to 14th, 2023. Venue: Milan, Italy.

Founded in 1951 by Mazhar Yusuf (1924-2009) Vol. LXX No. 04 April 2021

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EDITOR’S PAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 Textile Exports continue upward trend despite the Covid 19 pandemic and global slowdown

Editor in Chief Amina Baqai

TEXTILE BRIEFS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Associate Editor Dr. Noor Ahmed Memon

NEWS & VIEWS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Production Manager Mazhar Ali

AROUND THE WORLD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Hony-Editorial Board

CORPORATE NEWS

Dr. Hafizur Rehman Sheikh

Sateri to expand Lyocell production in China . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 DSM and MKU Ltd. provide high-performance, lightweight ballistic protection .22

Ph.D (UK) F.T.I. (UK)

Syed Mahfooz Qutab C.TEX, F.T.I (U.K), B.Sc. Fellow I.C.T.T Atlanta, GA; (USA)

Mian Iftkhar Afzal B.S.N.C State, M.Sc. (Leeds) C.TEXT.F.T.I (UK)

Dr. Zubair Bandukda PhD (Textiles), CText ATI

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28 54 PRACTICAL HINTS Modern compressed air systems for spinning mills in Pakistan . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

FEATURES Uster Quantum 4.0 yarn clearer offers spinners the best of both worlds . . . . . .28 Sateri unveiled the new recycled fibre FINEXTM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

FAIRS AND EXHIBITIONS 60th Dornbirn GFC 2021: WEBINAR WEEK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 New Live FESPA Virtual Event series helps printers get fit for recovery . . . . . . . . . . .33

DYEING, PRINTING AND FINISHING An overview of the Pakistan textile dyeing and finishing industry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 By. Professor Dr. Noor Ahmed Memon, Dadabhoy Institute of Higher Education.

Processing of Weft-Stretch Spandex Woven Fabrics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 By. Dr. Syed Muhammad Imtiazuddin and Sohail Tiki (Director AVM Chemicals)

Devan’s natural allergen control technology effective against Pollen . . . . . . . .41 Monforts denim customers highlight sustaniable production . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Archroma becomes ‘The BHive®’ partner for chemical compliance . . . . . . . . . .44 Navis TubeTex introduces TubeSet heat setting machine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 Datatex announces new project with Global Hantex . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 BRÜCKNER and TINTEX strive for new paths together . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 Jeanologia join forces with Cone Denim to Launch Mission Zero Goal

. . . . . . .48

ANDRITZ presents new generation of textile calendering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50

Mimaki reports success in a post pandemic world . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53 Biancalani technicians drive the R&D and innovations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54 Diamond Fabrics implements BMSvision MES solution in its denim division . . . . . .56

35 50

EDITOR’S PAGE

Textile Exports continue upward trend despite the Covid 19 pandemic and global slowdown Pakistan’s exports of textile and clothing posted a growth of 30.4 per cent to $1.355 billion from $1.039bn in March 2020. March 2020 was the first month of a Established 1951

short countrywide lockdown. The export markets of Pakistan also closed down during

April 2021

Dyeing, Printing and Finishing I

period. Due to prudent policies of the government the lockdown was not prolonged and the economic activity resumed shortly with the full support of the government. The industyr received short term financing to offset the adverse affects of the pandemic and lost business, primarily with the object of keeping economic cycle going and to keep the labour employed. While the neighboring countries of India and Bangladesh suffered badly due to lost orders and recession, Pakistan’s exports continued to grow every month. The July 2020-March2021 figures show that growth in textile and clothing exports

April 2021

came from the value-added sector. The value of exports reached $11.35bn in the JulyMarch period this year as against $10.41bn over the corresponding months of last year, showing a growth of 9.06pc. Ready-made garments up by 22.9pc in value, followed by knitwear 49.64pc, bedwear 43.71pc and towels 20.95pc during the month under review. Pakistan and China’s exports of apparel exports posted a substantial growth to United States compared to regional countries during the past few months. The government has already abolished duty and taxes on industrial raw materials as well as paying off past pending refunds to exporters. The devaluation of the rupee and lower interest rate accelerated industrial growth, especially in the export-oriented industries. According to the PBS data, the export of cotton yarn posted growth of 39pc in March from a year ago, followed by cotton cloth 8.7pc, and cotton carded 100pc. The export of yarn other than cotton yarn also recorded a growth of 56.87pc during the month under review. In the non-value-added sectors, exports of tents, canvas dipped 34.09pc followed by raw cotton by 100pc. However, the export of art and silk increased by 32.72pc, made-up articles excluding towels, bedwear 12.48pc and other textile products 41.03pc during the month under review. The overall exports in March up by 30.62pc to $2.36bn in March 2021 against $1.81bn over the corresponding month last year. Between July and March, the overall exports reached $18.68bn as against $17.44bn over the corresponding months of last year, indicating a growth of 7.13pc. In the nine months of this fiscal year, the import of textile machinery posts a paltry growth of 7.72pc. This indicates that the industry has started importing textile machinery as part of modernisation or expansion in the sector. 

Textile Briefs National

The textile industry in Pakistan imported 624,945 tonnes of raw cotton between July to March against 338,244 tonnes last year an increase of 84.76 percent. The import of synthetic fibre grew by 52.29 percent to 346,254 tonnes as against 227,365 tonnes last year. The import of synthetic and artificial silk yarn stood at 316,656 metric tons this year vs 210,810 metric tons last years an increase of 50.21pc.

Pakistan has decided to import cotton from the Central Asian states through the Torkham border. The Ministry of Commerce has sought the ECC’s approval to import cotton from Afghanistan and

production we achieved with 14.8 m bales a few years ago. ceeds. The Pakistan Cotton Ginners Association (PCGA) strongly opposed cotton imports from India, maintaining that the move would discourage local growers from sowing this cash crop.

The cotton yield fell to nine maund per acre during the season ended with just 5.5 million bales, almost one third of the

National Food Security and Research Minister Syed Fakhar Imam said that cotton growers would soon be given special incentives by the federal and provincial governments in the form of cotton-specific subsidies. He said that Punjab Seed Council has introduced 17 new varieties, including a double-gene variety, whereas Sindh has introduced three new varieties.

Central Asian states, including Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan. The Economic Coordination Committee will take up the MoC’s summary on cotton import. Pakistan’s exports of textile and clothing posted a growth of 30.4 per cent from a year ago. The export value of these sectors edged up to $1.355 billion in March from $1.039 bn over the corresponding month of last year. Growth in exports of value-added sectors contributed to an increase in overall exports from the sectors.

The fortnightly report of the Pakistan Cotton Ginners Association shows that 72,000 bales of cotton were sold to exporters. During the past three months, cotton yarn 30/1 prices have been increased by 15%. In the last six months, the dollar has also depreciated against the Pak rupee by 5.58% down from Rs 166.5 to Rs 157.2. Exporters previously had negotiated and finalized their export orders at a dollar rate of Rs 166.5.

The garment industry wants early approval of textile policy 2020-25 by ECC as it is vital for new investment and marketing plan in this major export-oriented sector. 

Textile Briefs International

During the July-January period of the current fiscal year 2020-21, Bangladesh earned US$ 639 million, up by 44.34% compared to US$ 443 million in the same period of last fiscal year. In the FY20, the sector brought US$ 759 million home. On the other hand, exports earnings from the RMG sector fell 3.44% to US$ 18.40 billion during JulyJanuary of the FY21, which was US$ 19 billion in the same period of last year.

Chinas textile machinery sector growth slows down as pandemic continues. China is still facing pressures due the pandemic and demand for textile machinery is still low. From January to September 2020, the total cost of textile

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - April 2021

machinery enterprises above designated size was down 15.7% to 43.77 billion yuan compared to the same period last year. Finland is leading the revolution towards sustainable materials and business models in global textile business. Responding to the growing issues of textile waste, new textile recycling regulations will come into force in the EU in 2025. However, Finland aims to start the process already by 2023.

The United States of America imported home textile products from Bangladesh worth US$ 156 million, the highest, followed by Germany US$ 8.5 million, India US$ 60 million, United Kingdom US$ 58 mil-

lion and Canada US $48 million. The CAI Crop Committee from India has estimated the total cotton supply till the end of the CY 2020-21 at 49.7 million bales of 170 kg each. Domestic consumption is now estimated at 33 million bales of 170 kg each that is at the same level as estimated previously.

India's cotton textile industry is experiencing a boom after more than a decade. The price per kilogram (kg) of woven cotton yarn increased from Rs 193.81 in August last year to Rs 267 in January this year—a 37.7%rise.

Turkey’s technical textile exports increases to 76% to US$ 3 billion in

2020, whereas the medical textile export rises US$ 1.40 billion in 2020, said Aegean Exporters Association (EIB) of the country. Amid the COVID-19 pandemic, the British government has announced GBP 830 million boost to high streets fashion brands to help them recover from the pandemic.

Vietnam’s textile and garment industry are eyeing US$39 billion export revenue in 2021. The country’s textile and garment exports were worth US$ 35 billion in 2020. Despite the pandemic and given global demand drop, the 22% export growth was extraordinary.

News & Views

Textile exports show growth of 9.06% July-March 2020-21 Pakistan’s exports of textile and clothing rebounded in March mainly due to value-added sectors and posted a growth of 30.4 percent from a year ago, as per data released by the Pakistan Bureau of Statistics (PBS). The export value of these sectors edged up to $1.355 billion in March from $1.039 bn over the corresponding month of last year. Growth in exports of valueadded sectors contributed to an increase in overall exports from the sectors. In February, textile and clothing exports shrank 3.12 percent on a yearon-year basis. The July-March figures showed that growth in textile and clothing exports came from the valueadded sector. The value of exports reached $11.35bn in the July-March period this year as against $10.41bn over the corresponding months of last year, showing a growth of 9.06 percent. The Economic Coordination Committee of the Cabinet has recently allowed the import of cotton and cotton yarn from India but the same decision was reversed in the Federal Cabinet.

To address the issue of shortage of cotton yarn for the value-added sector, the ECC in its last meeting allowed dutyfree import of cotton yarn until June 30, 2021. It will be difficult for the valueadded sector to retain the orders in case government did not facilitate the timely availability of cotton yarn in the domestic market. The product-wise details reveal exports of ready-made garments up by 22.9% in value, followed by knitwear 49.64%, bedwear 43.71% and towels 20.95% during the month under review. Pakistan and China’s exports of apparel exports posted a substantial growth to the United States compared to regional countries during the past few months. The government has already abolished duty and taxes on industrial raw materials as well as paying off past pending refunds to

exporters. The devaluation of the rupee and lower interest rate accelerated industrial growth, especially in the export-oriented industries. According to the PBS data, the export of cotton yarn posted growth of 39% in March from a year ago, followed by cotton cloth 8.7%, and cotton carded 100%. The export of yarn other than cotton yarn also recorded a growth of 56.87% during the month under review. In the non-value-added sectors, exports of tents, canvas dipped 34.09% followed by raw cotton by 100%. However, the export of art and silk increased by 32.72%, made-up articles excluding towels, bedwear 12.48% and other textile products 41.03% during the month under review. The overall exports in March up by 30.62% to $2.36% in March 2021 against $1.81bn over the corresponding month last year. Between July and March, the overall exports reached $18.68bn as against $17.44bn over the corresponding months of last year, indicating a growth of 7.13pc. In the nine months of this fiscal year, the import of textile machinery posts a paltry growth of 7.72%. This indicates that the industry has started importing textile machinery as part of modernisation or expansion in the sector.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - April 2021

To bridge the shortfall in the domestic sector, the industry imported 624,945 tonnes of raw cotton between July to March against 338,244 tonnes last year, showing an increase of 84.76 percent. Similarly, the import of synthetic fibre grew by 52.29 percent as industry imports 346,254 tonnes this year as against 227,365 tonnes. The import of synthetic and artificial silk yarn stood at 316,656 metric tons this year as against 210,810 metric tons last year, showing an increase of 50.21pc. The import of worn clothing recorded a growth of 55.22pc to 487,107 tonnes this year as against 313,818 tonnes last year.

Value-added Textile Association demands ban on the export of cotton and yarn All Pakistan Value-added Textile Association (APVTA) has demanded a complete ban on the export of cotton and cotton yarn. Addressing a joint press conference in Pakistan Hosiery Manufacturers and Exporters Association (PHMA), Mian Farrukh Iqbal Senior Vice Chairman (North Zone) PHMA said that some circles were maligning the value-added sector that they have pushed Kashmir cause under the carpet which is not true. He said that it is hard fact that cotton production has declined from 14 million bales to 5.64 million bales. It has created a shortage of yarn and the exploiters are further aggravating this situation by creating a price hike to mint money.He told that some sectors are exploiting the situation and exporting yarn despite the acute shortage of this raw material in the country. He told that during February, a yarn of 132 million dollars was exported which was 23 per cent over the yarn exported during the same period of the last year. He said that if the export of cotton yarn was not stopped, the export of the value-added sector will dip down to the minimum. It will also have a fallout impact on factories that have already started closing down. He said that the government should make a final decision soon to prohibit the export of cotton yarn as further delay will be disastrous for the country. Chaudhry Salamat Ali of PHMA demanded a ban on the export of yarn and said that the indecisiveness of the government has provided an opportunity to the exploiters to enhance the rate of cotton yarn. He said that government must allow duty-free import of yarn to the exporters of the value-added sector. This facility should also be extended to the commercial importers to ensure the availability of yarn within the country. Ejaz A.Khokhar of Pakistan Readymade Garments Manufacturers Exporters Association (PRGMEA) said that the value-added sector has the potential to earn 10 dollars from one dollar yarn through its value addition. Muhammad Ahmad Chairman of Pakistan Textile Exporters Association (PTEA) and Waheed Khaliq Ramay of Power Looms Owners Association said that yarn

News & Views export of 120 to 150 dollars is continuing for the last four months which has further enhanced the shortage of cotton yarn in the country. The shortage of raw material has forced industrialists to close their units as its operation has become unfeasible due to the shortage and high cost of raw material, they added.

Profits of listed textile companies jump 32% The profits recorded by Pakistan’s listed textile companies jumped 32% in the first half of the fiscal year 2020-21 against the corresponding period of the previous fiscal year primarily due to higher sales and lower finance cost. “The textile sector’s profitability has shown a significant increase during the first half of the fiscal year 2021 on a yearon-year basis primarily due to a spike in textile exports, improvement in other income and decline in finance cost,” as stated in a report by Topline Securities. The research house filtered out companies based on a minimum market capitalisation of Rs 1 billion and included 21 firms in its sample. The listed enterprises represent 82% of the textile sector’s market capitalisation.Overall, the revenues rose 12% during the period under review on a year-on-year basis as textile exports during the first half of the fiscal year 2020-21 increased 8%in dollar terms and 13% in rupee terms. Topline Securities analyst Saad Ziker said that the backlog of orders from the second half of the fiscal year 2019-20 and diversion of orders from regional countries such as India and Bangladesh amid Covid-19 lockdowns helped support exports. In addition, the uptick in general prices due to the commodity supercycle also played an important part, he said.

Other income of the companies included in the sample increased 22% in July-December 2020 mainly due to remeasurement gains booked on the gas infrastructure development cess (GIDC) as per the IFRS, and exchange gains recorded on net foreign asset exposure. Finance cost declined 14% year-on-year in the first half of FY21, which was attributed mainly to lower interest rates.

Ginners oppose cotton imports from India The Pakistan Cotton Ginners Association (PCGA) strongly opposed cotton imports from India, maintaining that the move would discourage local growers from sowing this cash crop. Growers, ginners, spinners and cotton brokers are actively supporting the government’s decision of not allowing cotton imports from India despite the Economic Coordination Committee approval.

“The increase in pricing and depreciation of the rupee against the US dollar by 4.6% helped mitigate the impact of rising cotton prices as gross margins remained largely unchanged at 16%,” he said.

PCGA Chairman Dr Jesu Mal said that if Indian cotton imports are allowed, growers will not go for sowing of cotton for this season. Cotton sowing has already begun in Sindh and will start soon in Punjab.

“However, gross profits increased by 9% year-on-year.”Local cotton prices increased 7% in the six months under review compared to the corresponding period of the previous year to an average of Rs 9,154 per maund mainly due to a 34% decline in cotton production.

“Due to no research on cotton seeds, poor pesticides and high cost of fertilisers, the cotton yield fell to nine maund per acre during the season ended with just 5.5 million bales, almost one-third of the production we achieved with 14.8m bales a few years ago,” he said.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - April 2021

The recent yields are around 16 maund per acre which has been sharply declining as the government has largely neglected the most important cash DR. Jassu Mal, crop which helped Chairman, PCGA earn over 60 per cent export proceeds, concluded Mr Mal. Commenting on the cost of cotton production, he said in India it was Rs 20,000 (equal to Pak rupee) per acre compared to Rs 50,000 in Pakistan. Furthermore, the Indian government buys cotton if the price falls below a minimum rate, he said. “The Indian government is offering cotton from its stocks. It is not in the hands of farmers or ginners,” Mr Mal said while demanding a minimum support price on the lines of wheat and sugarcane for cotton. “We are not supported by the government because 85% of farmers have just 12 acres of land. Small farmers have no lobby in Islamabad to get protection,” he concluded.

Minister vows cotton-specific subsidies for growers National Food Security and Research Minister Syed Fakhar Imam said that cotton growers would soon be given special incentives by the federal and

provincial governments in the form of cotton-specific subsidies.

Syed Fakhar Imam, NFS&R, Minister

Imam said this while chairing a meeting regarding the revival of cotton crops in the country. NFS&R Secretary Ghufran Memon, along with agriculture secretaries from all provinces, was also present on the occasion.

The federal minister noted that currently there were three major varieties of cotton seed available in the country. Similarly, about 23,000 tonnes of certified cotton seed was available with a germination percentage of 75pc, as compared to 47 pc last year. He said that Punjab Seed Council has introduced 17 new varieties, including a double-gene variety, whereas Sindh has introduced three new varieties. “Cotton growers will be given subsidies on pesticides for whitefly and pink bollworm, as well as on cottonseed. It will be ensured that the subsidies reach the farmers and do not get lost in the middle,” he added. Also, he said, subsidies on tractors, loan markups, and fertilizers would be announced for the farmers’ community in general. He advised against the mixing of cotton varieties “as it lowers the quality of cotton”, and also stressed reducing the trash content in cotton that can lead to lower profitability. He further advised district-wise monitoring of cotton growth and said that a total of 6 million bales of cotton were expected to be grown this year. The Sindh representative informed the meeting that out of 341 cotton gins, only about half were functioning in the province due to declining cotton production. It was suggested by the Sindh agriculture ministry that a sum of Rs3 billion was estimated for the revival of cotton crop in Sindh in terms of research, genetic engineering among other services for the farmers. It was also suggested that a minimum support price should be timely announced as an incentive for farmers. 

Around the World BANGLADESH Home textile exports increase defying pandemic As per Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) data, during the July-January period of the current fiscal year 2020-21, Bangladesh earned US$ 639 million, up by 44.34% compared to US$ 443 million in the same period of last fiscal year. In the FY20, the sector brought US$ 759 million home. On the other hand, exports earnings from the RMG sector fell 3.44% to US$ 18.40 billion during July-January of the FY21, which was US$ 19 billion in the same period of last year. Of the total earnings, bed, kitchen toilet lines earned US$ 305 million, which was US$ 267 million in the same period last year. Other products earned US$ 334 million. At a time when the country’s apparel exports are going through a negative growth, shipment of home textile products rose sharply amid the ongoing pandemic defying all odds. Home textile products include bed linen, bed sheet and other bedroom textiles, bath linen, carpets and rugs, blankets, kitchen linen, curtains, cushions and cushion cover and covers for quilts. As per the data, the United States of America imported home textile products from Bangladesh worth US$ 156 million,

the highest, followed by Germany US$ 8.5 million, India US$ 60 million, United Kingdom US$ 58 million and Canada US $48 million.

RMG sector hopes for business stability 2021 The pandemic has adversely affected global apparel supply chains with countries like Bangladesh, India, Vietnam, and others facing the brunt. Their exports have tumbled, factories have closed down, workers have lost jobs and revenues declined.

In fact, Bangladesh the second largest apparel exporter in the world after China has been severely affected by the pandemic. As per BGMEA, exporters got 30% less orders for the December to March season compared to pre-pandemic levels. However, while orders started returning in the last few months, the sector faced fresh bumps with second wave of lockdowns in Europe. However, Bangladesh RMG sector look hope for business stability overall the sector suffered as most buyers kept away with low demand and store closures. What’s more the prices being offered were much lower and payments delayed or deferred, shipments of finished orders too were hampered. The sector saw major job losses as mills closed with low production. With all this uncertainty, Bangladesh RMG industry is now looking at 2021 with a lot of hope and optimism. They hope for a new beginning, and doing things in a better manner with the arrival of Covid-19 vaccine, they feel lives and businesses can look up again. Experts also point out Bangladesh needs to now focus more on manmade fibber products moving away from cotton as demand for these products are higher globally.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - April 2021

CHINA China's economy grows 18.3% in Q1 2021 Powered by a strong domestic and foreign demand, China's economy grew 18.3 per cent year-on-year in the first quarter (Q1) of 2021. The gross domestic product (GDP) reached 24.93 trillion yuan (about $3.82 trillion) in Q1, up 0.6 per cent from the fourth quarter of last year, according to data from the National Bureau of Statistics (NBS). Low base in early 2020 (Q1) due to the spread of COVID-19 in China last year was another reason for strong growth registered during the quarter. In Q1 2020, the Chinese economy had registered a 6.8 per cent contraction. Subsequently, however, the economy rebounded, and it showed positive growth of 3.2 per cent in Q2, 4.9 per cent in Q3 and 6.5 per cent in Q4. "Full-year economic growth is likely to maintain a stable, consolidating and improving trend," said NBS spokesperson Liu Aihua at a press conference, citing the country's growing intrinsic development momentum, supply quality and market vitality as major support for sustained recovery. As per the National Bureau of Statistics, in Q1 2021, China's value-added industrial output, retail sales and fixed-asset investment went up 24.5 per cent, 33.9 per cent and 25.6 per cent, respectively. Total international trade too surged 29.2 per cent year-onyear to 8.47 trillion yuan.

FINLAND New solutions to textile industry challenges Finland recently claimed it is leading the revolution towards sustainable materials and business models in global textile business. The country offers ground breaking solutions and knowhow at every level of the sustainable textile ecosystem, from waste handling, treatment, sales and usage, collection and recycling to identification and waste handling. The currently available raw materials cannot meet the constantly growing demand for fibres and textiles. At the same time, on a global scale, an estimated 92 million tonnes of textile waste are produced every year of which 75%-85% is either burned or ends up in landfills. Finnish innovations offer solutions that cover the whole life cycle of a textile. Governments, consumers and the industry itself are waking up to the challenges of a very single-use oriented industry, but more work is needed to build awareness and change mindsets and behaviour to make the cycle more sustainable, while also maintaining the level of quality at reasonable costs.

The textile industry has been facing stagnation for many years, primarily due to the lack of availability of the basic raw material of man-made fibre/filament yarn at internationally competitive prices. The demand for VSF and its blended textiles and clothing has increased both in India and abroad. As the imported yarn price is cheaper, the weaving and knitting sectors have been importing large volume of VSF spun yarn earlier.

INDIA CAI retains India's 2020-21 cotton crop estimate at 36 million bales For the current marketing season 2020-21 that began on October 1, the Cotton Association of India (CAI) has estimated cotton crop at 36 million bales of 170 kg each (i.e. 38.25 million running bales of 160 kg each). CAI's April estimate is at the same level as the previous estimate. The CAI estimated total cotton supply for the season at 49.6 million bales. The total cotton supply for the months of October 2020 to April 2021 is estimated by the CAI at 46.93 million bales, which consists of the arrivals of 33.6 million bales, imports of 0.8 million bales, and the opening stock estimated by the CAI at 12.5m bales at the beginning of the season. Further, the CAI has estimated cotton consumption for the months of October 2020 to April 2021 at 19 million bales, while the export shipments upto April 30, 2021 are estimated at 5 million bales. Stock at the end of April 2021 is estimated at 22.93 million bales, including 9.5 million bales with textile mills and the remaining 13.44 million bales with the CCI, Maharashtra Federation and others (MNCs, traders, ginners, MCX, etc including the cotton sold but not delivered). The CAI Crop Committee has estimated the total cotton supply till end of the cotton season 2020-21 at the

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - April 2021

same level i.e. at 49.6 million bales upto September 30, 2021. The total cotton supply consists of the opening stock of 12.5 million bales at the beginning of the cotton season on October 1, 2020, crop for the season estimated at 36 million bales and the imports estimated by the CAI at 1.1 million bales. The imports estimate for the previous cotton season 2019-20 was 1.55 million bales. The domestic consumption estimated by the CAI has been reduced by 1.5 million bales to 31.5 million bales from its previous estimate of 33 million bales. The exports for the season have been estimated by CAI at 6.5 million bales, which are higher by 0.5 million bales than 6 million bales estimated previously. The exports estimate for the previous cotton season 2019-20 was of 5 million bales. The carry-over stock at the end of the cotton season 2020-21 on September 30, 2021, is estimated by the CAI at 11.6 million bales as against 10.75 million bales estimated for the previous cotton season 2019-20.

India's NCTC wants removal of anti-dumping on viscose staple fibre The National Committee on Textiles & Clothing (NCTC) appealed to Prime Minister Narendra Modi to remove antidumping duty (ADD) on viscose staple fibre (VSF) and address the VSF spun yarn availability and price issues to prevent job losses and stoppage of production across the VSF textile value chain.

The import of VSF spun yarn has increased from 2 million kg during fiscal 2016-17 to 56 million kg during 201920. NCTC also highlighted that in the post-pandemic market scenario, The availability and price are affecting the entire VSF value chain, especially the knitted and power loom sectors.

Indian cotton yarn price boom India's cotton textile industry is experiencing a boom after more than a decade. The last two years were bad for the sector with little expansion. The price per kilogram (kg) of woven cotton yarn increased from Rs 193.81 in August last year to Rs 267 in January this year—a 37.7%rise. The January 2021 price is 10.23% more than the price in the previous month. The sharp rise in cotton yarn prices in the last few weeks is because of dried-up inventories as supplies have failed to match demand and spinning mills resumed operations late across the country. Cotton fibre price has not risen significantly but cotton yarn has because of high domestic and export demand. Huge orders are coming in from Bangladesh and Vietnam.

PORTUGAL Euro 150 million in Portugal's recovery plan for textile Portugal released for public consultation its Recovery and Resilience Plan (RRP), which provides for Euro 150 million to promote incorporation of biobased materials in the textile and clothing, footwear and resins sectors. The planned investment aims to support 30 research, development and innovation projects and 40 industrial property registration applications.

In the textile and clothing sector, the aim is to develop new production processes for textile articles, “from biobased raw materials, incorporating forest biomass (cellulose and lignin) and alternative natural fibres from the agri-food sector. The main purpose of this investment, which the Environmental Fund will implement, will be to incorporate biobased materials (as an alternative to fossil-based materials) in three sectors of national economic activity, ensuring greater competitiveness and contribute to the transition to carbon neutrality fairly and cohesively, essential for the achievement of environmental and economic goals in a sustainable way, the document said.

TURKEY Medical textile exports see a robust growth in 2020 Turkey’s technical textile exports increases to 76% to US$ 3 billion in 2020, whereas the medical textile export rises US$ 1.40 billion in 2020, said Aegean Exporters Association (EIB) of the country. Medical textile exports in the subgroups saw a 22-fold increase on Y-o-Y basis in 2020. At the same time, the exports from the Aegean region saw around 46-fold increase, reaching US$ 92 million. Jak Eskinazi, Head Coordinator, EIB said that there was a strong demand for the medical textile (buoyed by surgical dresses and masks) and activewear products during the pandemic, while the export of textile products is somehow sluggish but recovering. Despite the pandemic, Turkey’s textile exports saw a loss of just 8% in 2020 as compared with 2019. But, as far as the Aegean region is concerned, textile goods worth US$ 240 million were exported with a yearly increase of 6%. On the other hand, technical textile exports of Turkey grew significantly by 76% in 2020, hitting US$3 billion. In technical textile products, exports from the Aegean region rose to US$ 194 million, an increase of 98%.

UNITED KINGDOM UK high streets fashion brands to get £830 million boost package Amid the COVID-19 pandemic, the British government has said an £830 million boost to high streets fashion brands to help them recover from the pandemic. Robert Jenrick, Communities Secretary announced the boost package, from the Future High Streets Fund, will aid 72 zones in England and safeguard thousands of jobs. The 2021 will be an immense one for the high street brands as it pursues to recover, adapt and change as a result of the pandemic. The UK government. launched

the severe disruption of the COVID-19 pandemic, US-China trade war, Brexit and trade protectionism. Vinatex added that despite the pandemic and given global demand drop, the 22% export growth was extraordinary. The country is one of the world’s top five textile and apparel exporting nations that has not paused production during the pandemic. Vinatex logged a total of 15.5 trillion VND (US$ 670.7 million) in revenue and combined profits of 628.9 billion VND, equivalent to 106% and 164.8% of the set targets respectively. Le Tien Truong, Chairman, Vinatex urged Vietnam’s government to cut longterm interest rates, adding the textile and garment manufacturers would find it tough to access loans after a year of low business efficiency.

Vietnam sets a target of earning US$ 55 billion by 2025

Future High Streets Fund in December 2018 as a major project to overhaul town centres across the country. The Future High Streets Fund will help areas bounce back through regeneration projects that level up opportunities and create jobs right across the country.

USA US-China trade war continues to impact textile industry The Joe Biden-led new US government is continuing with the Section 301 tariffs on finished apparel and textile imports from China. These tariffs were first imposed by the US in May 2019 to address intellectual property theft and other predatory trade practices by China. Since then, a number of tariffs and counter tariffs were imposed on import of goods. However, due to the COVID-19 pandemic, the US government gave exclusions on some Chinese products,

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - April 2021

including textiles and apparel, which have now been extended till March 31, 2021. Meanwhile, the Chinese government has reduced sliding tariffs on cotton cargoes imported under additional quotas. It has increased the number of products with lower than MFN tariffs and imported under temporary import tariffs from 859 earlier to 883 from January 1, 2021. The lower sliding tariffs would reduce the cost of importing cotton fibre into China, according to market analysis tool TexPro.

VIETNAM Vietnam eyes US$ 39 billion textile-garment exports in 2021 Vietnam’s textile and garment industry are eyeing US$39 billion export revenue in 2021. Vietnam National Textile and Garment Group (Vinatex) said the country’s textile and garment exports was worth US$ 35 billion in 2020 due to

The garment sector has set a target of earning US$ 55 billion from export and generating 3 million jobs by 2025. The target was unveiled at the sixth congress of the Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association (VITAS) in Hanoi. To meet the target, the garment sector will capitalize on free trade agreements Vietnam has signed with its partners. The VITAS will play a better role in connecting businesses with international organizations and customers to elevate Vietnamese garments’ position in the global supply chain. The VITAS proposed the Ministry of Industry and Trade soon submit to the Government for approval a strategy for the development of Vietnam’s textile and garment sector to 2030 with a vision to 2035. It also proposed the government and ministries accelerate administrative reform, remove difficulties, ensure a sound business investment environment and reduce costs for businesses. Vietnam’s garment exports have increased considerably from US$ 28.1 billion in 2016 to US$ 38.9 billion in 2019, posting an average growth rate of 9.55% annually. The 2020 figure is expected to be US$ 35.2 billion. 

Corporate News

Sateri to expand Lyocell production in China Sateri, as one of the world's largest producers of viscose fibre, is planning to expand its Lyocell production in China, with total planned annual capacity of up to 500,000 tonnes by 2025. The first phase of this expansion kicked off recently with ground breaking works for a new 100,000 tonne facility in Changzhou, Jiangsu province. Another 100,000 tonne facility will be built in Nantong, Jiangsu province later this year. The Changzhou Lyocell facility is expected to commence production in the third quarter of 2022 and will create more than 800 jobs. Sateri’s first foray into China’s Lyocell market was in May 2020 when its 20,000 tonne Lyocell production line in Rizhao, Shandong province commenced production. The same site houses a 5,000 tonne Lyocell pilot production line dedicated for the development of Lyocell application technology. Allen Zhang, President of Sateri, said, “Sateri’s continued investment in Lyocell not only responds to the changing needs of the market and the textile industry but also supports China’s green development plans. It is also very much a part of Sateri’s 2030 Vision commitment to sustainable development where we

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - April 2021

actively seek to adopt a circular economy model through clean and closed-loop production technology and innovation.” A natural and biodegradable fibre, Sateri’s Lyocell is made from wood pulp sourced from certified and sustainable plantations. It is manufactured using closed-loop technology, requiring minimal chemical input during the production process, and utilising an organic solvent that can be almost fully recovered and recycled.

In anticipation of strong demand for Lyocell in the coming years, Tom Liu, Sateri’s Vice President and General Manager of Lyocell and Nonwovens Business, said: "Customer-centricity is Sateri’s promise. The new expansion plans will enable us to extend our domestic and international market reach and provide our customers with high quality and comprehensive fibre products. At the same time, we will invest in technology improvement, application development, and brand collaboration to bolster the industry.”

Corporate News

DSM and MKU Ltd. provide highperformance, lightweight ballistic protection Royal DSM, a global science-based company in Nutrition, Health and Sustainable Living, recently announced that, together with armor manufacturing partner, MKU Ltd, has provided next generation armor technology with Dyneema® unidirectional (UD) material to support the Sao Paulo police. The Sao Paulo police, which is comprised of more than 100,000 officers, is the first law enforcement agency in Brazil to initiate a tender for personal protective equipment based on the latest National Institute of Justice (NIJ).06 standards for body armor, which provide comprehensive and rigorous compliance for the performance and testing of ballistic materials. In addition to NIJ.06 certification, the tender set extremely lightweight requirements for level IIIA soft armor vests. The hybrid vest solution developed MKU, a global leader in defense and homeland security solutions, for the Sao Paulo police utilizes predominantly Dyneema® UD material to reach new levels of performance and protection while simultaneously enhancing user comfort and mobility. Dyneema®, the world’s strongest and lightest fiber, is the leading global brand of choice for ultrahigh molecular weight polyethylene (UHMwPE) fiber, UD and fabrics, offering ballistic solutions for personal and vehicle armor that combine maximum strength with minimum weight. In soft armor applications, Dyneema® offers up to 35 percent weight reduction when compared to competitive

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - April 2021

materials, while still protecting against both legacy and emerging threats – making it the material of choice for many of the world’s elite military and law enforcement personnel. “Together with Dyneema® material MKU, was able to deliver a level IIIA soft armor vest that increases wearer ergonomics while reducing weight by more than 20 percent when compared to the incumbent aramid material,” says Marcelo van de Kamp, Global Business Director, Personal Protection of DSM. “We’re proud to provide a solution that meets the strict requirements of the Sao Paulo police to ensure the brave men and women of their department are protected with Dyneema®.” In addition to the lightweight armor requirement, the vests were also thoroughly tested to ensure performance with NIJ ballistic reports, NIJ certification and in-house ballistic testing both during the tender process and after the vests were received.

“MKU is committed to providing the latest and most cutting-edge solutions to the Sao Paulo police,” says Neeraj Gupta, Managing Director of MKU. “These vests not only offer the best protection, they are extremely light weight and comfortable to wear.” In line with DSM’s commitment to protect people and the environment they live in, the world’s first ever bio-based HMPE fiber was introduced in 2020. Biobased Dyneema® boasts the same exact performance as conventional Dyneema® with a carbon footprint that is 90 percent lower than generic HMPE. DSM and MKU’S continued partnership in supporting the Sao Paulo police will not only provide innovative, lightweight solutions for armor technology in Brazil, but also environmentally sustainable alternatives that contribute to a circular economy.

Personalia

New Managing Director of SSM SSM Schärer Schweiter Mettler AG, a subsidiary of the Rieter Group, has appointed Per Olofsson as Managing Director and member of the SSM Group’s management team effective April 1, 2021. Mr. Olofsson is a Swedish citizen and holds a Master of Science Degree in Supply Chain and Operations Management from the University of Liverpool, United Kingdom, and an Executive MBA from the International Institute for Management Development (IMD) in Lausanne, Switzerland. Per Oloffson joined the Rieter Group in 2013 and is an experienced operations manager with a proven management track record at both local and global level.

About Rieter Rieter is one of the world’s leading suppliers of systems for short-staple

Per Olofsson, new Managing Director of SSM

fiber spinning. Based in Winterthur (Switzerland), the company develops and manufactures machinery, systems and components used to convert natural and manmade fibers and their blends into yarns. Rieter is the only supplier worldwide to cover both spinning preparation processes and all four end spinning processes currently established on the market. Furthermore, Rieter is a leader in the field of precision winding machines. With 15 manufacturing locations in ten countries, the company employs a global workforce of some 4 420, about 21% of whom are based in Switzerland. Rieter is listed on the SIX Swiss

Exchange under ticker symbol RIEN. www.rieter.com

About SSM SSM, based in Wädenswil (Switzerland), is a subsidiary of the Rieter Group. SSM is the world’s leading supplier of precision winding machines in the fields of dyeing, weaving and sewing thread preparation and enjoys success in individual segments of filament yarn production. SSM comprises the companies SSM Schärer Schweiter Mettler AG in Wädenswil and subsidiaries in Italy and China. SSM is represented worldwide in all major markets. 

Sustainable Textile of the Asian Region (STAR) The STAR Network (Sustainable Textile of the Asian Region) is the first inter-Asian network of producer associations. It was initiated by GIZs FABRIC project, which is promoting sustainability in the textile and garment industry in Asia. The network brings together representatives of the producing associations from Bangladesh, Cambodia, China, Myanmar, Pakistan and Vietnam. The network’s members all meet regularly and have undertaken work together in order to promote

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - April 2021

sustainable production. As a platform for dialogue, the network helps members find solutions to the challenges they all face. The platform is used to announce relevant dates for the industry and publish information on good practice from pioneering factories on subjects such as workplace health, affirmative action for women and waste management. The STAR Network is also coorganizer of the conference series "Asian Dialogues on Sustainable

Production in the Textile and Garment Sector". The Asian Dialogues are a platform where representatives of the Asian textile industry, government bodies, buyers and employees discuss challenges and opportunities on the way towards sustainability and develop a more cooperative relationship. Towel Manufacturers Association (TMA), Pakistan Textile Exporters Association (PTEA) and Pakistan Hosiery Manufacturers and Exporters Association (PHMA) represent Pakistan in this important platform. 

Special Report

Cotton Trust Protocol adopts TextileGenesis blockchain for sustainable cotton farming The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol, a new sustainability program for robust farmlevel data for cotton metrics, today announced a partnership with the distributed ledger blockchain TextileGenesis platform to help track and trace cotton supply chains. The Trust Protocol recognizes the need for increased transparency in supply chains as industry regulators peer further into farming practices and consumers pay more attention to where their clothing and other textiles come from. “Today, having a holistic view of every step throughout the supply chain is imperative for brands and retailers,” said Dr. Gary Adams, president of the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol. By joining TextileGenesis, The Trust Protocol will be adding an extra layer of traceability to its already existing sustainability credits – which provides growers, distributors and retailers with sustainability metrics.

The blockchain will add a transactional network between all of these separate entities, which is trustworthy and auditable by third parties and can be verified without revealing sensitive information. That allows each business to remain separate, but at the same time have greater visibility into the supply chain that allows for more sustainable practices than before — in turn saving money and the environment.

a gin, spun into thread, turned into a

“Collaborating with the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol, with its clear focus on robust data and the strength of its verification practices, creates a powerful solution for brands and retailers worldwide in their search for more sustainable fibers and enhanced visibility in their supply chains,” said Amit Gautam, founder and chief executive of TextileGenesis.

which shirts went to what racks at

Using the blockchain, TextileGenesis can track tag a bale of cotton from when it is rolled off a truck from a farm, sent to

trials with selected brands and mills in

garment and all the way to the retailer. Each of these events can be recorded on the blockchain as a transaction, which can be traced along the supply chain and audited afterward. Because of this, TextileGenesis’ platform enhances The Trust Protocol’s sustainability metrics with an even more interesting story of what field became Nordstrom’s, for example, or which retailer or aftermarket distributor received the textiles that the cotton became. The Trust Protocol has partnered with more than 300 brands, retailers, mills and manufactures since its launch in 2020 and intends to keep expanding its rolls. This collaboration will lead to pilot early June 2021. Full deployment is planned as early as 2022. 

Practical Hints

Modern compressed air systems for spinning mills in Pakistan

Imtiaz Rastgar.

Compressed Air System, generally, consumes up to 35% of any industry’s electricity bill. The modernization of the compressed air system in spinning mills will pay for itself by eliminating potential wastage at the plant, thereby converting savings into profit. Rastgar Air Compressors prepares solutions with the strategic goal of delivering a state-of-art compressed air system, incorporating the latest advances in compressed air production, distribution, management and cost apportionment, pleasing optics, environment friendly and also contributing to carbon credits for your company. This table presents avoidable compressed air losses in spinning mills in Pakistan, which can easily be avoided by proper selection, designing and installations of compressed air equipment.

Modernizing existing compressed air system of spinning mills Rastgar Air Compressors recommends that instead of piece-meal improvements, a project to revamp the entire system will be more advisable and an assured route to sustainable good compressed air practices while stemming the losses being incurred currently.

Pressure Profile of Spinning Mills Sections Section

Gauge Pressure [Bar]

Blowroom

6 bar

Carding

6 bar

Drawing

6 bar

AutoCone

7 bar

Waste Area

6 bar

Doubling

7 bar

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - April 2021

Compressed air losses in spinning mills in Pakistan Estimated Area of concern losses Compressor air leakages waste.

24.90%

Off Load running cost.

19.20%

Compressor room related wastage.

6.00%

Reduced electricity costs.

43.80%

Piping layout and engineering related waste.

05.50%

Depreciated air end related wastages.

5.40%

Moisture related waste.

0.20%

Modern compressed air system for new spinning mills With the availability and combination of products, technologies and techniques together with our experience of 40 years in compressed air production and distribution, Rastgar will ensure the most optimum and economic compressed air with the right compressed air quality, pressure and flow at the point of use.

Fixed and variable speed, best compressed air solution for spinning mills In Pakistan, a combination of fixed and variable speed drive Air Compressor will yield maximum benefits in terms of productivity, energy and costs savings for various stages of spinning (From Ring to Auto Cone Section, Back Process and Doubling Section). The Variable Speed compressor can efficiently handle the varying air demands by varying motor speed according to the plant’s air requirement, thereby cutting down off-load hours running cost to almost negligible.

Rastgar can execute projects of identifying various types of inefficiencies in theexisting compressed air system of spinning mills. The company offer proposed remedies to make the mill efficient or install new project for the compressed air systems. The result will be the overall efficiency of the compressed air system and there will be no losses on account of leakages, negligible off-load running hours, fewer breakdowns which result in a sustainable increase in production and profitability. Learn more about us at www.rastgarco.com. 

Features

Uster launches the new Quantum 4.0 clearer generation.

Uster Quantum 4.0 yarn clearer offers spinners the best of both worlds Which yarn clearing technology should spinners choose? Now there’s only one answer, as Uster launches the new Quantum 4.0 clearer generation. This world-beating innovation combines both capacitive and optical sensors in one – delivering comprehensive security, prevention and flexibility. The Smart Duo system offers the best of both worlds for intelligent yarn quality control and optimized profitability. It means mills can now focus on meeting the fast-moving market challenges, instead of pondering technical options.

Security and reliability: the basis of yarn quality Quantum 4.0 is like a dream come true for the industry. For years, spinners have wished for a way to bring the best of different technologies together, for secure quality and maximum flexibility.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - April 2021

Spinners can now access full security in quality control, ensuring the best clearing mode is applied. The Quantum 4.0 enables this through a simple Capacitive/Optical switch. This allows greater flexibility in the types of yarn which can be produced, while also dealing with factors such as humidity variations.

Intelligent sensors in tandem The capacitive and optical sensors work intelligently in tandem through an innovation known as Cross Clearing. This locates and eliminates hidden defects by means of a double check, in which the main sensor’s signal is supported by the assistance sensor. This deals with issues such as unnoticed fluff events, which might otherwise cause breaks downstream. Today’s market trends show strong demand for compact yarns. Here,

spinners can trust Quantum 4.0 to tap this potential and deal with any quality issues. The density feature, for example, protects mills from substandard cops caused by ring spinning malfunctions such as blocked compacting zones, or twist problems. The Smart Duo has the advantage of monitoring yarn density continuously and after every splice. “No matter where density variations originate, be it compacting, different twist levels due to slip spindles or otherwise, Uster Quantum 4.0 takes care of it – and this is a real technical innovation,” says Katrin Hofer, Product Manager at Uster Technologies.

No more material mix-ups A further valuable innovation with Quantum 4.0 is the Blend Mix-up option, which now enables mills to identify mixups of different types of raw materials. This long-awaited market request detects

Features any wrong raw material in greige and white yarns, combating the infamous, but serious, barré effect in fabrics. Cop mixups can happen in mills, since differences are hardly visible to the human eye. But Quantum 4.0 stops the problem before it becomes an issue, thanks to significantly improved hardware and software – all underpinned by the Smart Duo. The higher processing power of the new sensors brings additional benefits such as the enhanced Continuous Core Yarn option, which detects both missing and off-center core continuously. Innovations in Quantum 4.0 also focus on contamination, with deeper analysis of polypropylene and foreign matter. A new PP classification gives users the overview of polypropylene content, while the Advanced FD classification now shows extra classes below the 5% lines. Both these features add to the value of the contamination function, together with Total Contamination Control (TCC). Quantum 4.0 gives spinners the ultimate confidence through the intelligent interaction of capacitive and optical sensor technology. It achieves

‘one of a kind’ security levels in basic clearing, while also cutting only what’s necessary.

Prevention pays off As well as identifying defects at winding, preventing defects at source is also in focus with the clearer’s new Expert System. The new Quantum Expert is now included in the product offering. Thanks to many added intelligent analytical features, the Uster Quantum Expert enhances process control and prevention of defects, through Total Contamination Control, Ring Spinning Optimization and the RSO 3D Value Module. Latest innovations in the new clearer protect spinners from claims and waste – but enabling business success is the real purpose of Quantum 4.0. Latest clearing technologies work with Uster’s unique data analysis to enable flexible databased decisions using Application Intelligence. “Failure prevention is the key to success and tackling issues at source is the way to do it. Uster Quantum 4.0 plays an important role in this, offering options to strengthen it,” says Hofer.

Secure and user-friendly The secret of true innovation is how well it is designed through to the point of user interaction. No matter how much data – in terms of quantity and different parameters – is collected for analysis, Uster Quantum Expert manages the complexity, while staying as intuitive as ever. With Quantum 4.0, a new central Smart-Limit button enhances flexibility, since operators can adjust all available smart limits with a single tap, based on the unique Yarn Body concept. Each individual limit can be simply fine-tuned as preferred. Users enjoy the established Quantum workflows and embrace the new customer-centered user interface with a 16:9 touchscreen on the 7th generation control units. Nothing gets in the way of success with this prevention strategy. Uster recognizes that today’s challenges are tough, can be overcome with prevention, security and flexibility on your side – and Quantum 4.0 on your winding machine.

The Smart Duo system offers the best of both worlds for intelligent yarn quality control and optimized profitability.

Features

Sateri unveiled the new recycled fibre FINEXTM Launched in June 2020, Sateri introduced FINEXTM as its new product brand for recycled fibre. FINEXTM, short for ‘Fibre Next’, is an innovative next-generation cellulosic fibre containing recycled content. Since its announcement in March 2020 of a breakthrough in commercial production of viscose using recycled textile waste, Sateri has worked closely with its downstream yarn and garment manufacturing partners to bring the recycled fibre product to the consumer market. FINEXTM is made from bio-based natural fibres derived from a mix of recycled pre and post consumer’s textile waste, and other PEFC-certified wood pulp from renewable plantations. Innovation and technology has made cellulosic textile fibre recycling possible and FINEXTM represents how nature not only renews itself but that products made from nature can also be regenerated. This, at its heart, is what circular fashion looks like. Sateri’s brand promise to customers remains constant– its products are sustainable, high quality, efficient, and costeffective. The FINEXTM tagline ‘Together for a Better Next’ expresses our aspiration to be the partner of choice for next-generation fibre. Allen Zhang, President of Sateri stated, “Being the world’s largest viscose producer gives us the advantages that come with volume, but value is what we hope differentiates us. By this, we don’t only mean higher value products like FinexTM but also the value we bring to communities, country, climate and customers.” Globally, less than 1% of material used to produce clothing is recycled into new clothing. This presents a big opportunity for textile fibre recycling, particularly in China which is the largest textile producing country in the world. Just a month before the launch, Sateri became a council member of the China Association

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - April 2021

of Circular Economy (CACE). The company will work closely with CACE’s Textile Waste Comprehensive Utilisation Committee to establish standards and promote industrial-scale textile waste recycling. Furthermore, the fibre is now certified to the Recycled Claim Standard (RCS) which provides verification of recycled raw materials through the supply chain. RCS is intended for use with any product that contains at least 5% recycled material, and Sateri has successfully produced FinexTM viscose fibres with up to 20% recycled content. Under the RCS certification process, each stage of production is required to be certified, beginning at the recycling stage and ending at the last seller in the final business-to-business transaction. The new developments were announced at the official launch of FinexTM. About 160 guests, mostly senior representatives of major fashion brands and fabric and garment makers, gathered to celebrate the milestones that cement the status of FinexTM as a game changer for sustainable fashion. Allen Zhang, President of Sateri, said: “The

development of Finex has been an intensive effort for Sateri from initial commercialization, to partnering brands like Lafuma and Rico Lee, and finally to the launch. This is all made possible with collaboration across the value chain – working alongside yarn spinners, garment makers and brand partners – to bring a high quality and more planet friendly product to consumers. The fashion industry is changing fast and, beyond functionality, circularity is now of the greatest importance in apparel manufacturing.” In the ‘2020 Sustainable Fashion Report’ released by China’s leading business news publication CBNweekly, results of a survey with stakeholders in the fashion value chain reinforced the potential of textile recycling as a solution to the problem of textile waste arising from overconsumption and production. The report identified technology and capital as the biggest barriers to textile recycling and highlighted the critical role brands play in mobilizing manufacturers and consumers to advance sustainable fashion. For further information please email us at: Sales_apr@aprayon.com

60th Dornbirn GFC 2021: WEBINAR WEEK The 60th anniversary of the Dornbirn GFC Congress will take place during 15 to 17 September 2021 virtually due to pandemic. Nevertheless, one will be surprised by the highly interactive platform offering a wide range of services to the participants.

Thanks to ambitious partners and sponsors, the conference is able to attract a global audience. This will foster the global exchange of ideas and innovations in the fibre industry and along the value chain of textiles and nonwovens.

Outstanding new ideas will create a "live feeling“ during the congress, motivate networking and promote a unique learning experience.

Dornbirn GFC-Asia

Top experts from industry and research present the latest scientific results. 90 lecture slots have already been allocated. Lectures will take place in parallel in 2 lecture halls. Panel discussions, breakout sessions and virtual meeting lounges provide opportunities for networking and information exchange. A virtual exhibition area with 25 exhibitors will also be offered.

Dornbirn GFC 2021 Topics:  Fibre innovations.  Sustainability and Circular Economy.  Nonwovens and technical textiles 

Surface modifications and additives.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - April 2021

More than 200 participants took part in the online event in Korea. Within two days 32 high quality presentations were offered. It was an excellent merging of lectures from the Western and Eastern world, which generated a great exchange of knowledge and interaction during and after the congress. The dedicated

The premiere of the 1 Dornbirn GFC-Asia was a complete success! st

collaboration with Dyetec and KOFOTI from Korea made this possible. 

New Live FESPA Virtual Event series helps printers get fit for recovery FESPA is introducing FIT – FESPA Innovations and Trends, a new series of live virtual events aimed at helping printers plan effectively for their business recovery. The new interactive live online events are each themed around a particular area of technology and applications, giving visitors a focused environment in which to engage with new products and explore trends. The first two events in the series will take place in May and June 2021 and are as follows:

Wide format: 26-27 May 2021 Focussing on wide format graphics and the evolving printed décor market, this event will showcase innovations from a range of leading technology, software and substrate suppliers. Gold sponsors include: Durst, highlighting its latest P5 portfolio; EFI, showcasing its new EFI Vutek Q5; HP, showing its new Latex 700 and 800 portfolios; Kornit Digital, explaining how printers can harness its NeoPigment™ inks; Mimaki, presenting its new 100

series of UV, solvent and sublimation printers; OneVision, highlighting its endto-end automation suite; and PrintFactory, discussing the benefits of using correct workflow and colour management tools. Other participating suppliers include Ahlstrom-Munksjö, Aleph, Aslan, Avery Dennison, Dataline, Elitron, Fotoba, Hanglory, Kala, Klieverik, Kongsberg, Mactac, Mutoh, Pigment.Inc, PLASTGommet, PONGS, STS Inks and TTS.

Printed Clothing: 9-10 June 2021 The second FIT event focuses on the textile printing and garment decoration sector, covering direct-to-garment (DTG), screen printing, software and materials. Gold sponsors include: B-FLEX, showcasing its growing heat transfer vinyl portfolio; EFI Reggiani, introducing its

integrated offering for digital textile production; Gemini CAD, highlighting its software solutions for fashion designers, manufacturers and e-commerce brands; Kornit Digital, presenting the latest Kornit HD industrial DTG printers; Polyprint, presenting its DTG & Direct-to-fabric (DTF) printers and pre-treatment machines; PrintFactory, highlighting its suite of textile software tools; Roland, introducing a new compact DTG printer; and ROQ, showing its latest innovations in automatic screen printing and hybrid printing. Other exhibitors include technology suppliers INO, Klieverik, Lotus Holland, Melco, Pigment.Inc, Sport PrintLab, Vastex, customised software solution provider Zakeke, and transfer film producer COVEME. Each FIT event will feature a minimum of 16 exhibitors presenting

Fairs and Exhibitions their products and solutions. Visitors will have open access to virtual demonstrations, exhibitor insight and Q&A sessions. Participants can see the full event programme in advance to plan their time, and the online platform makes it easy to join live chats, network via video chat, and schedule timed meetings. FESPA FIT events are free to attend for visitors, but numbers are capped to manage the quality of the interactive experience for printers and suppliers alike. FESPA CEO Neil Felton explains, “Spring is here, and businesses are increasingly focused on their plans for reinvigoration after this hugely challenging year. To plan investments and make informed decisions, printers need to be able to see new products, discover technological developments, and access expert advice on products, applications and avenues for diversification and development. “Speaking to printers across our communities it’s clear that – while their

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - April 2021

strong preference is to do all of this in a live event setting – there’s a pressing need to access information in a timeefficient way. They want the opportunity to ask questions, take advice, interact with suppliers and nurture relationships with like-minded entrepreneurs. By launching the FIT series of virtual events, we’re supporting our community in the most effective way available until we can meet in the real world again at a FESPA live exhibition.” The events will take place on the digital event hosting platform that was used for the virtual FESPA Global Summit, which took place in January 2021, providing an accessible and easy-tonavigate environment.

About FESPA Founded in 1962, FESPA is a global federation of Associations for the screen printing, digital printing and textile printing community. FESPA’s dual aim is to promote screen printing and digital

imaging and to share knowledge about screen and digital printing with its members across the world, helping them to grow their businesses and learn about the latest developments in their fast growing industries.

FESPA Profit for Purpose Profit for Purpose is FESPA’s international reinvestment programme, which uses revenue from FESPA events to support the global speciality print community to achieve sustainable and profitable growth through four key pillars - education, inspiration, expansion and connection. The programme delivers high quality products and services for printers worldwide, including market research, seminars, summits, congresses, educational guides and features, in addition to supporting grassroots projects in developing markets.

An overview of the Pakistan textile dyeing and finishing industry by Professor Dr. Noor Ahmed Memon, Dadabhoy Institute of Higher Education. Textile Processing is one of the most value-added and export-oriented sector of the textile industry in Pakistan. Pakistan textiles and apparel worth US$ 12.5 billion were exported from Pakistan in 2019-20, in which apparel contributed 20% and textiles 80%. It contributes 8.5% to the GDP of Pakistan. In addition, the sector employs about 40% of the total labour force in the country. The dyeing, printing and finishing sectors have seen remarkable improvements in textile technology over the years, to meet increasingly stringent requirements of lower usage of chemical, water and energy. Today’s finishing machines provide economical and profitable production while meeting all stringent requirements. With rapid changes in fashion, the textile industry is making a steady shift towards prints, rather than dyed fabrics.

Table 1: Production of Cloth (Mill Sector) Million sq. meters Year

Blended

Grey

Bleached

Dyed and Printed

Total

2015-16

570

324

1,039

2016-17

560

338

1,043

2017-18

570

339

1,044

2018-19

530

383

1,046

2019-20

550

374

1,060

Source: Textile Commissioner Organisation Government of Pakistan

The market for textile printing is closely linked to consumer demand for apparel/clothing, home furnishings and decor. Steady population growth, increasing purchasing capability, and rapidly changing fashion trends are among the key factors driving the growth in the textile printing market.

The steady shift towards digital textile printing driven by the technology’s ability to accelerate production speeds, and reduce coloration costs, is another factor in the steady growth in the market. Technology advancements and innovations associated with inks and consumables, print heads, and printing machinery remain vital to market growth.

Dyeing, Printing and Finishing Screen printing represents the largest market sector by type of technology. Though facing stiff competition from the rapid adoption of digital technology, conventional screen printing continues to hold a major share of the global textile printing market, in terms of production volume of printed textiles. Growth in the coming years will be driven largely by the digital textile printing market. The market for digital textile printing in Pakistan is increasing as it offers better and high-definition textile print design possibilities, lower water, effluent, emissions and energy use with economical production of “short-run medium run” prints to the market. The shorter delivery brings in increased savings to retailers and brands as digital printing hubs are based on proximity sourcing and just-in-time printing and sourcing strategies.

Textile processing Pakistan’s textile finishing industry comprises of almost 731 units, the majority of which independent and complementary to the weaving industry. About 650 independent processing units are working in and around Faisalabad, Gujranwala and Karachi, in which about 50 integrated units have complete finishing facilities. These integrated units have complete finishing facilities i.e., bleaching, mercerizing, dyeing, calendaring and printing. These units from the power loom sector procure cloth and after processing they are marketed under their brand names in the domestic market. The weaving and made-up sectors have three different subsectors in weaving viz. integrated, independent weaving units and power loom sector. The cloth is being produced in both the mill and non-mill sectors. Pakistan’s fabrics range from coarse to super varieties. There are a large number of vertically integrated units, where production is controlled from fibre to the end product, and marketed abroad directly. The production of cloth (mill and non-mill sectors) decreased from 9.16 billion square meters in 2015-16 to 9.11 billion square meters in 2019-20, thus showing an average decrease of 2.5% per annum. Out of total production of

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - April 2021

Table 2: Imports of Textile Dyeing and Finishing Machines Quantity: Numbers Value: Rs. in Million Machines

2018-19

2019-20

Quantity

Value

Quantity

Value

Bleaching machines.

536

862

Drying machines.

464

2,952

395

3,245

4,391

147

167

Machinery for pressing

361

Dressing and finishing machines.

113

199

161

Mercerizing machines.

780

789

sanforizing machines.

720

Stentering machines.

812

174

Shrinking machines.

230

2,634

2,881

3,778

3,360

7,773

9,281

4,837

8,848

Coating or laminating machines.

Other drying machines. Total

Source: Pakistan Bureau of Statistics.

cloth during 2019-20 in mill sector, 50% produced in grey form, 34% dyed and printed, and 16% blended and bleached. Production of cloths mill sector is given in Table-1.

Import of machinery Textile Policy 2020-25 allow various incentives including cash subsidies and lower rates on utilities worth Rs 960 billion to boost production and exports of value-added textile products. The proposed policy, which will be the third such policy, estimates three scenarios that the measures will lift the textile and clothing exports to a minimum of US$ 15.7 billion and a maximum of US$ 20.8 billion by end of the year 2025. Import of textile dyeing and finishing machines decreased from Rs 9.28 billion in 2018-19 to Rs 8.85 billion in 2019-20, thus showing decline of 5% in terms of value. Import of textile dyeing and finishing machinery into Pakistan are given in Table-2.

Import of dyes and Pigments The textile industry is among the largest users of chemicals globally and is highly water-intensive. Over 2000 different chemicals are used in the industry, which accounts for almost 25% of the chemicals produced globally. The textile industry is estimated to use more water than any industry

globally and almost all water discharged is highly polluted. Dyeing and finishing processes account for 90% of the total textile wastewater. Fibre wastewater discharge amounts to 12% and another textile processing account for 8% of effluent discharge. Developing a solution that minimizes the utilization of water and at the same time reduces pollution is the need of the hour. This has raised concerns and subsequently led to the adherence of strict rules and standards to protect the environment and practice sustainable working. Hence adopting eco-friendly methods and bio-degradable substances for dyeing and finishing processes in textile and garment making can save resources of nature and reduce chemical landfill in a big way. The import of various dyes and pigments in Pakistan decreased from Rs 25.86 billion in 2018-19 to Rs 31.08 billion in 2019-20. Imports of dyes and pigments in Pakistan are given in Table 3. Import of organic chemicals with increasing global awareness regarding the issues of environment and pollution, the improved environmental performance has become a major factor in the dynamics of the world markets and successful businesses around the globe are striving to achieve the goals of responsible environmental behaviour.

Dyeing, Printing and Finishing To enhance and sustain the textile exports of Pakistan it is essential to address the associated environmental problems on an urgent basis. Import of organic chemicals in Pakistan decreased from US$ 2.67 billion in 2018- 19 to US$ 2.16 billion in 2019-20, thus showing a decline of 19%. Imports of organic chemicals in Pakistan are given in Table 4.

Table 3: Imports of Dyes and Pigments in Pakistan Value: Rs. in Million 2017-18

2018-19

2019-20

Disperse Dyes.

2,718

4,697

4,421

Acid Dyes Premetalise.

1,945

2,618

1,756

Basic Dyes.

869

1,223

1,090

Problems and Prospects

Direct Dyes.

399

640

451

The biggest challenge for the past year in global economies and their supply chains was the COVID-19 itself. One of South Asia’s textile manufacturing countries, Pakistan also faced difficulty throughout the period but surprisingly within a few months, the country’s textile sector was moved on the track.

Vat Dyes Indigo Blue.

3,842

6,500

5,989

Other Vat Dyes.

1,122

1,385

1,413

Reactive Dyes.

9,227

12,273

9,418

Pigments Preparation.

3,038

3,259

3,006

Dyes Sulphur.

1,965

2,382

2,398

225

434

503

The main challenges are energy crises, fluctuating yarn prices, shortage of gas supply and load shading, devaluation of Pakistani currency, lack of research and development (R&D) institutions, lack of modern equipment and machinery and production cost.

Liquid Pigments and Preparation.

454

636

25,350

35,865

31,081

The government has recently announced a lucrative energy package for

Table 4: Imports of Organic Chemicals in Pakistan Year

Value US$ Million

2015-16

1,864

2016-17

2,116

2017-18

2,611

2018-19

2,672

2019-20

2,158

Source: State Bank of Pakistan Annual Reports.

Description

Other Dyes synthetic.

Total Source: Pakistan Bureau of Statistics.

the industry to help the exporters. The package does away with peak electricity rates, offers reduced tariffs on additional power consumption, and fixes power price at US$ 0.07 a unit and gas tariff at $0.065 MMBtu for the export industries. The Central bank has reduced interest rates by 625bps, approved refinancing of wages and deferred payments of the principal amount of loans, provided relief under the Export Financing Scheme (EFS) and the Long-Term Financing Facility (LTFF). Furthermore, the State Bank has also launched a long-term facility. Consumers in the developed countries are now concerned about green activities and choose products that are non-toxic and cause no harm to either the user or the environment. This trend for ecofriendly products has been extended to textile apparel products, particularly those

products which directly come into contact with the skin for prolonged periods. The requirements for socially responsible production and processing are increasing every day. The dyeing printing and finishing sector have seen remarkable improvements in textile technology over the years, to meet these increasingly stringent requirements of lower use of chemicals, water and energy. Today’s finishing machines provide economical and profitable production while meeting all stringent requirements.

References 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Cottonsrevolution.org Environmentaljournal.org Pakistan Bureau of Statistics State Bank of Pakistan-Annual Reports Textile Commissioner Organisation, Government of Pakistan 

Processing of weft-stretch spandex woven fabrics By: Dr. Syed Muhammad Imtiazuddin and Sohail Tiki (Director AVM Chemicals) Fabrics containing Spandex elastane yarn require careful control of processing conditions to preserve the intrinsic elastic properties of the fibre while obtaining the required fabric characteristics. These dyeing and finishing conditions should be chosen with care because the performance of Spandex elastane can be changed by prolonged hot/wet treatments, certain chemicals excessive tension and high temperature. It is, therefore, necessary to be fully aware of the physical changes required to develop the desired weight, width, stability and stretch.[1] As compared with ordinary 100% cotton fabric, the width of weft-stretch SPANDEX fabric should be shrunk in the weft direction during the processing and therefore it is recommended to carry out the processing of fabric properly after

grasping the relationship among the three, namely, grey fabric width, finishing width and weft stretchability (generally, about 20%-30% shrinkage in the weft direction). [3,4] Tension, temperature, the concentration of process chemicals and the duration of treatments must be kept to a minimum because they affect the elastic properties and the appearance of the finished goods. In particular, the tension must be kept to a minimum during those steps which are carried out at an elevated temperature, i.e. relaxation, hot wet processing, drying and curing. Although the use of high temperatures and tensions does not degrade Spandex, fabrics containing it lose some power/stretch when they are hot-stretched and this loses cannot be recovered. [2]

Chemical Resistance Fabrics containing Spandex are sensitive to unsaturated oils, greases, fatty acids and their derivatives, which tend to discolour and degrade elastane yarns. Such compounds sometimes serve ad lubricants for hard fibres and they vary from one yarn producer to another. Pine oil, used in printing, cutting or boarding, can also affect stretch fabrics. It is essential to make sure that these lubricate, if present, will not discolour or degrade Spandex during the usual course of processing.[6] In general, the duration of treatments and the concentration of chemicals applied in the wet process should not exceed the minimum necessary to attain the best performance of the treated goods. The duration and concentration of bleaching baths, the duration and pH of dye baths, the duration of solvent scouring, the treatments which involve caustic soda or acids, the selection of carries for Spandex/polyester dyeing, as well as resin curing catalysts and conditions, need particular attention. [5]

Process Steps The selection of a particular processing route depends on the desired appearance, the required performance of the fabric in use and fabric composition. Stretch fabrics include a large variety of

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - April 2021

Dyeing, Printing and Finishing fabrics, each with their particular features, and it is impossible to advise one general process route for all of them [7]. A standard discontinuous process suitable for most stretch fabrics comprises:  Relaxation.  Scouring.  Bleaching/dyeing/printing.  Finishing. The first two steps involve Spandex elastane directly and govern the future performance of the stretch fabric or garment, while the remaining steps must take into account the specific features of Spandex to retain the best benefits. The above standard sequence may not apply to certain woven fabrics. Different procedures also apply to continuous processes.

Relaxation A grey fabric containing Spandex must be exposed in a relaxed condition to steam, hot water or warm organic solvent before dyeing and finishing. Relaxation of the grey fabric relieves residual stresses caused by the tension of the Spandex yarns during weaving. These stresses can distort the structure, deform the design, and cause puckering of the fabric. Such effects show up especially in clear faced or regularly patterned woven and knitted fabrics. The potential shrinkage in the grey fabric should also be removed to obtain an evenly dyed and uniformly finished product. A stretch fabric is therefore relaxes at an early stage of its finishing by one of the following methods:  Passing over a stem table.  Steam framing.  Solvent scouring.  Hot water treatment. Steam table relaxation is preferred because complete relaxation can be achieved. The time of relaxation will depend upon fabric construction and rate of steam generation. Steam farming consists of overfeeding a fabric over a steam box fixed at the stenter inlet. The stenter should then only dry the steam relaxed fabric. Combined steam relaxation and heat setting give less uniform results than relaxation and heat-setting in separate steps.

The continuous solvent scouring services to relax and dry clean fabrics at the same time. It provides a good width wise relaxation and a controlled lengthwise relaxation of treated fabrics. Relaxation by hot water occurs when a non-heat-set grey fabric is washed or dyed without stress. This is an efficient way to relax the fabric, but it may leave permanent creases or interfere with the subsequent heat-setting of the relaxed textile. The fully relaxed fabrics are stable for washing.

Care is needed to maintain and control fabric:   

Elongation. Recovery. Dimensional stability.

Spandex under tension will be set when    

Given time (cold set). Steamed above 120oC. Processed in water above 100oC. Exposed to dry heat above 180oC.

Advantages   

Contributes to fabric stability. Better crease resistance. Can achieve wider width/lower weight.

Disadvantage  

Lower recovery power. Potential and elongation loss and change of handle.

water treatment (80 – 90oC) and a proper elasticity, thereby making the succeeding process go smoothly. This treatment, by using an activator, can serve also as washing and desizing.

Scouring and Bleaching A continuous desizing, scouring, bleaching range can be used in this context. It is safe to carry out scouring and bleaching by stages, using a tensionless jigger. However, as mentioned before, a treatment by strong alkali or at high temperature and high pressure must be avoided.

Relaxation

Dyeing

   

Continuous dyeing by using a pad steamer, for example, is possible. Dyeing of cotton or polyester can safely be applied.

Vibrating steam table. Steam framing. Solvent scouring. Tensionless hot washing.

Heat setting and drying 

Temperature, overfeed and width control.

Dyeing As appropriate:     

Beams. Jets. Jigs. Winches. Continuous range.

Shrinking treatment in width The width shrinking treatment of grey fabric is carried out by using an open soaper. This treatment is necessary to give the fabric a stabilized width by hot

Conditions and facilities used for dyeing ordinary polyester/cotton mix woven (disperse/reactive, disperse/vat) can safely be adopted. However, when using a high temperature/high-pressure dyeing machine, attention should be paid to possible damage on SPANDEX. If any damage is found, the use of a carrier is recommended. Using high temperature is not recommended.

Stripping The Spandex fabrics sometimes need stain removal or stripping, if they are dyed unevenly, too dark or are stained during finishing. The elastane component of the fabric imposes restraints on the selection of suitable stripping agents.

Dyeing, Printing and Finishing Reducing agents do not degrade “SPANDEX” elastane fiber and are therefore recommended. Alkaline reducing baths are preferred, whenever compatible with the type of “SPANDEX” and the hard fibre in the fabric. Dye stripping by compounds that release chlorine, such as hypochlorite or chlorite, will weaken and degrade the elastane fibre and therefore unsuitable for the processing.

Some recommended procedures are given below. 1. Color correction or light stain removal.   

1 g/l non-ionic surfactant. 1-2 g/l trisodium phosphate. 15-20 minutes at 85oC.

2. Partial stripping or removal of medium stains.   

1-3 g/l sodium dithionite (hydrosulfite). 1-2 g/l tri sodium phosphate. 15-20 minutes at 85oC.

3. Alkaline stripping. 

5% sodium sulphoxylate formaldehyde.

 

1% amphoteric dispersing agent. Sodium hydroxide to pH 10-11.

15 minutes at 90-95oC , then soap and rinse the fabric to neutral pH.

4. Acid stripping     

1% zinc sulphoxylate formaldehyde 1% amphoteric dispersing agent Adjust bath to pH 5 if needed Treat 15 minutes at 85 oC, then soap and rinse till fabric pH is neutral. A complete color strip, usually followed by redyeing represents extra processing of the stretch fabric which may weaken it and impair its subsequent performance in use.

Finishing Depending upon the use, resin finish, softening finish and so on are carried out. The finishing also concerns handle, look and dimensions, and can impart special properties to fabrics containing SPANDEX. It comprises both mechanical and chemical treatments which all require careful control of applied tension, temperature, time and chemicals.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - April 2021

Mechanical finishing The mechanical finishing includes the steps either before or after dyeing and printing which change the physical features of a fabric. The methods chosen to finish a fabric containing SPANDEX should, in general, involve little or no tension, particularly when the treated fabric is hot. The joint action of high tension and heat may reset or overset the fabric and cause loss of its final relativity. Low tension allows the best relaxation, improves dimensional stability, and gives a supple handle to the goods. Fabrics that have been overstretched in processing tend to relax afterwards causing difficulties in cutting, and high or irregular shrinkage of garments. SPANDEX will withstand without undue damage most of the mechanical finishes applied to rigid textiles, namely;         

Mangle or spin dry. Dry. Steam relax or shrink. Compressive-shrink. Semidecate or decate. Press or Palmer-press. Raise, send or suede. Crop. Calendar or emboss.

Key rules to follow are “do not stretch hot fabric” and “no tension for long periods”.

Drying Hot air drying, usually on pin stenters with overfeed, removes non-extracted water and establishes the final width and weight of the fabric. Temperatures should not exceed 110oC when drying stretch fabrics. The time of drying and the resultant speed of fabric passage, will depend on the weight and structure of the fabric, but should not be longer than the minimum needed to dry it. Heating should be uniform over the entire fabric and over drying must be avoided as it may slightly yellow the fabric. The risk of yellowing is increased when the drying air is heated directly with oil or gas burners. The same advice also applies to drying required to fix or develop any chemical finishes of fabrics of Spandex.

Chemical finishing Fabrics containing SPANDEX withstand many chemical treatments or finishes which serve to change or improve their look, surface, handle, performance or properties. SPANDEX is compatible with many.       

Antistatic. Softeners Water repellents Resin finishes for easy care, when used with organic catalysts Resin finishes to impart body, when used with organic catalysts. Rot-proofing agent. Coating finishing in emulsion.

References: 1.

4. 5.

6. 7.

Bayazit M.A: Dimensional and physical properties of cotton/spandex. Single jersey Fabrics, Textile Res. J. 73 (1), 11-14. 2003. Hicks EM, Ultee. A J and Drougas J: Spandex Elastic Fibers, Science, New Series 147, 373-379, 1965. 1995, ‘’ Bayer Takes Aim at North America with Spandex Plant’’, Textile World. No.8. pp86-88. Luke, J.E.2001, “Spandex world Trends”, Textile world. No.5. Fibers 2000, “Dupont high global elastane yarn investment. New capacities for generic elastane yarn”, Man-made fiber yarn. Book No.8. Fibers in 2003, Textile Monthly. No.4, 2004. Wet processing of fabrics containing Lycra elastane, Basic information, Dupont Technical Bulletin No. 517, Wilmington, DE.

Devan’s natural allergen control technology effective against pollen With the pollen season starting, new independent test results by the German external laboratory BMA-Labor have shown Purissimo’s™ effectiveness against pollen, making it an all-in-one solution for reducing allergens.

Devan’s allergen control technology, known as Purissimo™ has been found effective against allergens from pollen. The technology had already been proven to significantly reduce the amount of allergens from house dust mites and pets (cats & dogs). “Allergens are small protein molecules, which can cause allergic reactions and asthma. All allergy sufferers are different when it comes to their sensitivity to allergens,” says Sofie Depluverez, PhD researcher at Devan. “However, few people are only allergic to a single allergen – and the effects of multiple allergens can add up. The key to reducing and even eliminating symptoms is to reduce your exposure to the allergens themselves.”

allergens such as pollen), the allergy threshold may be reached if no allergen reduction measures are in place.”

Purissimo™ Purissimo™ is a natural allergen control technology that significantly reduces allergens from pet dander, dust mites and pollen in textiles throughout the home. The technology is based on encapsulated probiotics, which are naturally occurring micro-organisms similar in kind to those you can find in probiotic yogurt, tempeh, kombucha, …

Inactive probiotics (spores) are encapsulated and integrated onto the textiles. Friction opens the microcapsules and releases the spores. The spores absorb humidity and self-activate. They are transformed into probiotic bacteria that start to consume the allergens. “As the probiotics consume the allergens, exposure is gradually reduced to below threshold levels”, Depluverez adds. “Therefore, individuals with respiratory allergies will be exposed to fewer ‘attacks’ and perceive a better wellbeing.”

Allergy threshold When people move into a house or bring in a new dog, the number of allergens starts to rise. In the beginning there are little to none, so the allergy threshold causing symptoms is far from being reached. Nobody is suffering any reaction at this stage. “As time goes by, the various allergens start to build up inside the house, certainly when ventilation is limited,” Depluverez continues. “As the allergen concentration increases (especially in combination with seasonal

Dyeing, Printing and Finishing

Monforts denim customers highlight sustaniable production Major Monforts denim customers continue to pioneer new initiatives that are pushing the boundaries of sustainable production. Recycling their cotton waste has become one way these companies can do more with less, and at the recent Kingpins24 Flash online event, Sedef Uncu Aki, director of Orta, headquartered in Istanbul, Turkey, announced a new partnership with leading recycling operation Gama Recycle.

Traceable “Through this local partnership we will supply the waste from our spinning mills and return around 3,000 tons of premium quality cotton back to them,” she said. “We have established a truly controlled and traceable system and partnering with a domestic recycling centre is important because a lot the carbon emissions associated with recycling usually come from transportation.” Orta’s ZeroMax range meanwhile uses no cotton at all, being based on Lenzing’s Tencel cellulosic fibre, while the company’s involvement in denim production for a recent launch by Levi Strauss, of jeans made with organic cotton and Circulose – a breakthrough

material developed by re:newcell of Sweden and partners – was hailed as a further step forward. To make Circulose, re:newcell repurposes discarded cotton textiles, such as worn-out denim jeans, through a process akin to recycling paper. The incoming waste fabrics are broken down using water. The colour is then stripped from these materials using an eco-friendly bleach and after any synthetic fibres are removed from the mix, the slurry-like mixture is dried and the excess water is extracted, leaving behind a sheet of Circulose. This sheet is then made into viscose fibre which is combined with cotton and woven into new fabrics.

Circular Park Omer Ahmed, CEO of Artistic Milliners also announced plans for his company’s new 70,000 square-foot Circular Park in Karachi, Pakistan, at Kingpins24 Flash. Once complete, this will add three million square metres of additional denim capacity a month to the company’s production and take its total recycled output to a monthly five million metres. Ahmed observed that there is currently a lack of sustainable fibres that are readily available to use for denim production at scale.

Monforts Head of Denim Hans Wroblowski.

“Organic cotton is too expensive, and in my opinion always will be,” he said. “Cottonised hemp is also not cheap and it’s hard to mix with cotton, while the new regenerated cellulose fibres that are now emerging are promising, but currently in short supply. Recycled polyester is meanwhile still based on petroleum resources which we want to move away from. As a consequence, there are only a few other options for us as a manufacturer and this new project will help us minimise our own waste while significantly lowering our carbon footprint.” Other Monforts denim customers to introduce cotton fibre recycling operations at their plants recently include AGI Denim, Bossa and Soorty.

Vertical savings Refresh is the name of the latest collection from AGI Denim – reflecting the company’s significant reduction in water consumption. The company has just opened new fibre spinning and denim mills at its complex in Karachi, Pakistan.

Spinning operation at Artistic Milliners in Karachi, where the new 70,000 square-foot Circular Park for recycling yarn and fabric waste is being planned. Image courtesy of Artistic Milliners.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - April 2021

“Over the years we’ve gone through a series of backward integration steps to become fully vertical,” said AGI Denim executive director Ahmed Javed, at Kingpins24 Flash. “In our latest expansion, we revisited every step of the production processes in order to make resource savings.”

Dyeing, Printing and Finishing Innovations have included the installation of proprietary robotics for garment finishing, but the most attention has been paid to water savings. “Pakistan is one of the largest cottonproducing companies in the world and we’re fortunate that the type of cotton that is grown here is well suited to denim production and also helps us lower our carbon footprint, with everything done in close proximity,” Javed said. “In the lifecycle of a pair of denim jeans, however, cotton fibre production contributes 68% of water consumption. While we cannot control how much water cotton needs for it to grow, we can rethink the way we use it in our factory.”

Monforts has a leading position in the field of denim finishing with its well proven Thermex continuous dyeing systems, Montex stenter dryers and other lines for resource-efficient and economical processing.

Refresh-branded denims are washed from 100% recycled water as a result of the company’s new wastewater treatment plant, which puts production wastewater through a series of steps beginning with equalisation, followed by aeration and concluding with sedimentation. The water travels through filtration and ultrafiltration systems before being subjected to an activated carbon system and finally a reverse osmosis system to reduce any dissolved salts. AGI now recycles 4.4 million gallons of water each month – enough to wash a million pairs of jeans.

Sustainable Monforts has a leading position in the field of denim finishing with its well proven Thermex continuous dyeing systems, Montex stenter dryers and other

AGI Denim now recycles 4.4 million gallons of water each month as a result of its new wastewater treatment plant.

lines for resource-efficient and economical processing. “Our denim partners are constantly setting themselves new goals in respect of sustainable production – and more

importantly, achieving them,” says Hans Wroblowski, Monforts Head of Denim. “We work closely with them with the aim of constantly optimising processing parameters and achieving further savings in energy, water and raw materials throughout the dyeing and finishing stages of production.” The latest Monforts innovation for denim is the CYD yarn dyeing system. This technology is based on the effective and established dyeing process for denim fabrics that is now being applied for yarn dyeing. The CYD system integrates new functions and processes into the weaving preparation processes to increase quality, flexibility, economic viability and productivity. A full CYD line is now available for trials at the company’s Advanced Technology Centre in Mönchengladbach, Germany.”

Proprietary robotics for garment finishing at AGI Denim.

The BHive® is a trademark of GoBlu International Ltd.

Archroma becomes ‘The BHive®’ partner to help foster chemical compliance and management across the textile supply chain Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, announced that it has become a The BHive® partner to help foster chemical compliance and management across the textile supply chain. The BHive® is an innovative digital chemical management platform that provides at-a-glance information about chemical products to its users. It was developed by GoBlu International Ltd. to allow manufacturing facilities to easily create digital inventories of the chemical products used onsite using a smartphone. They can identify in a matter of seconds which products meet sustainability requirements of their brand and retail customers, who they can share this information with as well. This enables brands and retailers to achieve full

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - April 2021

transparency about the chemical use in their global supply chain. Now, over 30 international fashion brands and 500 factories are partnered with The BHive® to drive sustainable chemistry in the textile and fashion industry. More than 2000 Archroma chemical products and dyes are now included in The BHive® database. The company has been very active in the past few years in developing solution systems and innovations in line with the 3 pillars of 'The Archroma Way to a Sustainable World: Safe, efficient, enhanced. It’s our nature'. As part of this commitment, the global and local product stewardship teams of Archroma support customers in their efforts to comply with regulations, eco-certifications, and brand

requirements with timely and reliable information and documentation. Paul Cowell, Head of Archroma’s Competence Centers for Brand & Performance Textile Specialties, explains: "With the pandemic crisis, textile manufacturers are experiencing numerous logistic bottlenecks and challenges. With The BHive®, our partners have now an additional access path to the information about chemical usage and compliance for the Archroma products they keep at their facilities." Lars Doemer, Managing Director of GoBlu International Ltd, adds: "We are pleased to announce our new partnership with Archroma and support their drive for more sustainable chemistry in the textile industry. We look forward to working together in the future."

Dyeing, Printing and Finishing

Navis TubeTex introduces TubeSet heat setting machine Navis TubeTex, one of the global leaders in finishing machinery for the textile industry introduces TubeSet, its latest innovation in heat setting machinery for tubular knit synthetic-blend greige fabric.

Detailed view of a MBF 3.2. The machine producing three-thread fleece stands for comfortable home

TubeSet efficiently heat sets tubular knit greige fabric with synthetic content, eliminating the need for open-width processing. Additionally, TubeSet provides improved machine efficiencies and increased fabric utilization with a reduction in operating costs. The goal was to assist customers in reducing production expenditures by >25%, and significantly minimizing the plant footprint with its reduced size, versus operations with open width finishing. With a positive ROI of less than 6 months, manufacturing operations reaches a quick time to value.

Will Motchar, CEO and President of Navis TubeTex and its companies, stated, “We have taken the market disruption during COVID as an opportunity to engineer new technologies and meet industry demands. Our dedication to

advanced engineered solutions continue to support automation in the manufacture of tubular textiles. With final testing completed, Navis is set for deliveries during second quarter of 2021. 

Datatex announces new project with Global Hantex Global Hantex Co., Ltd. is one of the biggest and most modern Knit Fabric producers in Vietnam and plans to enhance the footprint further in the

region by adopting latest manufacturing

Hantex has specialization of Knit Fabric

and IT technologies.

Manufacturing across Yarn and Fabric

Part of Hansoll Textile Group, with USD 1.4 Billion annual revenue, Global

Dyeing, Knitting, and Processing operations for globally leading brands. After careful and detailed evaluation, Global Hantex has finalized Datatex Software solutions for ERP for the modules of Logistics, Financials and Costing, Capacity Balancing and Production Scheduling for advanced planning, Shopfloor Automation and Fabric Inspection for its smart factory.

Dyeing, Printing and Finishing

No sustainability without innovation – true to this motto, TINTEX and BRÜCKNER strive for new paths together

General view of the new line at TINTEX in Portugal

The Portuguese textile company TINTEX Textiles S.A. and the German textile machinery manufacturer BRÜCKNER Textile Technologies GmbH & Co. KG make a big step into the future together. A completely new developed process technology for coating bi-elastic knitted fabric opens new markets and new possibilities for both sides. The modern textile company TINTEX is located in Villa Nova, not far from the Spanish border in northern Portugal. The company was founded in 1998 in the region of Porto. The product range includes functional tricot fabrics for wellknown fashion, sports and lingerie brands. TINTEX is convinced that fashion can truly make a difference in tackling climate change. That is why their engineers are constantly developing new strategies and environmentally friendly concepts throughout the whole production process. The technologists' expertise covers the entire textile supply

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - April 2021

chain, including dyeing and finishing techniques as well as coatings.

“No sustainability without innovation.” True to this motto, TINTEX is constantly researching for fabric innovations to develop and produce intelligent, functional and highperformance textiles. To round off the concept, a few years ago it was decided to cooperate with the German textile machinery manufacturer BRÜCKNER. Their product range includes machines and complete lines for coating and finishing of textiles, technical textiles, nonwovens and floor coverings. With their own production site in the south of Germany, completely rebuilt in 2018, BRÜCKNER has become even more flexible and competitive. The family-run company was founded in 1949 and is today managed in the second generation by Regina Brückner and her husband Axel Pieper. Still valid today, the values and visions of the company founder are the

key to success: the production of highquality lines, the development of sustainable and innovative technologies and the competent and comprehensive advice of their customers. Since both companies, TINTEX and BRÜCKNER, share the same philosophy, the basis for constructive and goaloriented product development was quickly established. The vision of TINTEX was to be able to achieve completely new effects on bi-elastic knitwear and to produce fabrics that did not even exist before. This was followed by numerous tests in the Technology Centre at BRÜCKNER in Leonberg and on a BRÜCKNER line in an institute for textile and process engineering near Stuttgart. So a new, revolutionary line concept was worked out together, which has unbeatable benefits especially with regard to the requirements of temperature uniformity, the thermal treatment of synthetic fibre blends and other constructive issues. Even very difficult

Dyeing, Printing and Finishing knitted fabric with high elastane content can now be directly coated or functionalized. Until now, such coatings were only possible in an indirect coating process. The heart of the new line is the proven, but constantly further developed and optimized POWER-FRAME stenter frame dryer. The inlet and outlet components are specially designed for sensitive fabric and ensure a tensionless fabric run. A special, newly developed coating unit is integrated in the infeed stand of the stenter frame. Due to its variable design, two different application processes are possible on the same line. In the so-called screen coating process, water-based pastes and stable or unstable foams are applied onto the fabric with high precision by means of a driven, cylindrical screen and a squeegee system integrated in the screen. For paste coating, the machine parameters can be adjusted in such a way that a single-side coating is possible even on light knitwear made of cotton or viscose, provided the paste is of a suitable viscosity. For the stable foam coating, the coating medium is mixed to foam with an exact foam/liter weight of 150 to 300 g/l. With an integrated feed pump, this foam can be precisely dosed and applied to the textile through the screen. Also in the case of unstable foam coating, the coating medium is foamed up with a mixer and applied to the textile in exact doses. Here the foam/liter weight is 30 to 100 g/l.

Screen coating unit

As the unstable foam collapses shortly after leaving the screen, a single-side functionalization with a very low pick-up of less than 10-20 % can be achieved. This is a minimum application with the corresponding benefits, e.g. considerable energy and thus cost savings in the subsequent drying process. If you want to coat somewhat more stable fabric or apply higher coating weights, the unit can be quickly and easily converted from screen coating to a knife-over-cylinder system. The counter pressure roller is then used as coating cylinder. A laminating/embossing calender integrated in the outfeed of the stenter allows various effects to be achieved on the fabric, e.g. a leather grain. If the applied stable foam coating has a certain layer thickness, this effect can be achieved after the drying passage in the

Infrared dryer at the machine outlet

laminating calender by means of a fed release paper or an appropriate embossing roller. Even with sensitive, directly coated knitted fabric, this calender can be used to apply e.g. a film, a membrane or a second textile web onto the fabric. For this purpose, the calender is additionally equipped with an electric short-wave infrared dryer. For simple heat-setting processes a special roller has been developed which can be inserted into the coating unit instead of the screen and thus acts as the upper infeed roller. Even very tensionsensitive knitwear can be run with an overfeed of up to 60% before heatsetting. This new multifunctional line can therefore be used for heat-setting, drying and coating processes. It can be used to manufacture products comparable to those previously produced with indirect coating - but without having to rely on cost-intensive release paper. At TINTEX in Portugal, production on this line has already been running for some time and research into completely new types of textiles is continuing. At Munich Fabric Start, TINTEX even won the Hightex Award with such newly developed products, as well as the Innovation Award at Techtextil in Frankfurt. BRÜCKNER is very proud to have customers like TINTEX who act with foresight and do not strive for short-term profit optimization. The goal is always to think and act with a long-term perspective, because this is the only way how BRÜCKNER and their customers can be successful in the long run. 

Dyeing, Printing and Finishing

Jeanologia join forces with Cone Denim to Launch Mission Zero Goal Debuting first Road to Mission Zero collection, from fabric to finish, in Kingpins24 



The Mission Zero challenge is 100% elimination of waste and pollution in a single pair of jeans by 2025. Both companies share the same values and vision and want jeans to be an icon of the new rebels that protect the environment and the planet. Mission Zero encourages collaboration with like-minded partners across the denim industry to change global production processes.

Jeanologia announces their Mission Zero goal and kicks off the first step in their “Road to Mission Zero.” In partnership with Cone Denim, the collection showcases authentic, sustainable options from fabric to finish.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - April 2021

The collection will launch at the upcoming Kingspins 24 show. Cone Denim and Jeanologia share common values and a vision to keep jeans as a symbol of the new rebels that want to protect the environment and the planet and be an inspiration to the whole textile industry. Historically, blue jeans have always had a strong significance. They are a symbol of youth, rebellion and have even become the most democratic garment of them all. Unfortunately, their popularity and high acceptance have also brought about some undesirable consequences like excessive usage of water, chemicals, and energy that negatively impact the carbon footprint. That is why it is important to immediately bring together the efforts of all those involved to change denim production processes.

Enrique Silla, CEO Jeanologia

For Enrique Silla, CEO of Jeanologia, “We firmly believe that people and the planet come first and that is why we decided to embark on a very important mission: eliminate 100% of jeans wear waste from the fabric to the final garment by 2025”. “We believe a Mission Zero is possible and necessary.”

Dyeing, Printing and Finishing Mission Zero commitment is the 100% elimination of waste generated in Blue Jeans manufacturing and finishing from the fabric to the final garment, reducing water usage to near zero amounts and returning clean water back into Nature. “This is the reason why we join forces with companies from our industry like Cone, that share these same values and vision”. Enrique Silla has added. "We are excited to partner with Jeanologia as we focus on building a sustainable future and minimizing our impact on natural resources,” says Steve Maggard, President Cone Denim. “One area of particular focus for us is water conservation, which is perfectly aligned to the Mission Zero goal. Cone currently uses Jeanologia’s G2 Ozone finishing ranges, lasers and Bluescan machinery. Additionally, we are in the process of installing a Zero Liquid Discharge wastewater treatment system at our mill in Northern Mexico. These investments will enable us to make significant advances towards Cone’s 2025 water usage reduction goal.”

Road to Mission Zero collection Cone Denim Mills and Jeanologia will present the first Road to Mission Zero collection, on the Earth Day at Kingpins24, a collection where heritage, sustainability and innovation are present from the fabric to the finish. Contributing to the goal of Mission Zero is a must, beginning with fabric.

Cone Denim Flash Finish fabrics are produced on G2 Dynamic ozone finishing ranges and are the perfect fabric collaboration to include in the first road to Mission Zero collection. These fabrics are highly light-sensitive with great reaction to the eco-technologies and are an eco-efficient alternative for some of the most water-intensive and pollutant fabric finishing processes. The collection has been developed across a full range of sustainable finishes, with a wide scale of wash levels, nice high and lows done with atmospheric finishing and keeping the authenticity of the traditional stone washed look. By integrating Jeanologia technologies and using them as part of the denim ecosystem, we can eliminate highly

inefficient and hazardous practices and create amazing denim and jeans without sacrificing denim’s authentic look and iconic soul.

About Jeanologia Since 1994 Jeanologia’ s mission has been to create an ethical, sustainable, and eco-efficient industry through its disruptive technology and know-how. Their laser, G2 ozone, e-flow, Smart Boxes and H2Zero, have revolutionized the textile industry. They offer infinite design and garment finishing possibilities while saving water, energy, and chemicals, eliminating discharge and toxic emissions. Over 35% of the 5 billion jeans produced worldwide every year are made with their technologies, and the biggest market brands place their trust in Jeanologia, using technology developed by the company.

About Cone Denim A leading denim innovator for more than 128 years, Cone Denim delivers unparalleled expertise and advanced denim capabilities that service and inspire the global market. Cone promotes sustainable practices through its Sustainblue™ denim fabrics representing the highest standards in responsible manufacturing.. Cone Denim operates as part of Elevate Textiles, Inc. with manufacturing capabilities in Mexico and China and a global network of sales, product and merchandising professionals based out of Greensboro, NC, New York, San Francisco, and Hong Kong. 

ANDRITZ teXcal Raconip TT calender

ANDRITZ presents new generation of textile calendering The latest development in textile calendering from ANDRITZ looks good, but the real beauty lies on the inside. The teXcal Raconip TT calender sets a new standard in smart, safe, top quality textile production. With more than 150 years experience in developing and supplying calenders for textile applications, ANDRITZ leads the way in quality, performance and reliability. With the launch of its latest development, the teXcal Raconip TT, a new phase in the industry has begun where top performance, quality and safety, combine with the latest in smart, operation utilizing IIoT and digital solutions. This new calender was developed in cooperation with Rolf Ramisch, a well-known specialist in textile calender technology. The production of technical textiles, such as sports wear, workwear, canvas and parachute fabric demands the most

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - April 2021

vigorous of parameters for process technology and minimum tolerances for the end product. Consistency of quality is essential. Christian Meyer, Product Expert Textile Calender, says, “There are various added features on the teXcal Raconip TT, but one feature that truly stands out is the introduction of the latest smart technology that documents all elements of the operation including pressure, web tension control and temperature. “This takes out the chance of operator error and results in much more consistent quality. And of course, it also means that information for previous recipes for products can be stored and easily accessed for the repeat run of products.” The new calender comes complete with an innovative, deflection-controlled roll – the newly developed Raconip roll. It offers maximum flexibility thanks to unrestricted profiling across the entire

fabric width by means of hydrostatic pistons. This guarantees the highest quality, such as absolute flatness and precise air permeability. “The pistons are able to be individually adjusted according to the product requirements. This is based on a smart control system to ensure higher flexibility in zone correction and the highest possible correction potential especially at the fabric edges,” says Josef Kohnen, Head of Technical Product Management. Another important feature ANDRITZ has added to the teXcal Raconip TT calender is a “safe area” which has been created on the calender where the operator is able to touch and check the fabric web by hand with the added feature of a light bar that illuminates the entire infeed area. Meyer says, “With the new calender, the operator now has excellent visibility

Dyeing, Printing and Finishing through the introduction of transparent guards that allow a visual at the exact moment when the fabric passes the nip, this has removed the danger of operators’ fingers being caught by rotating rolls.” In terms of new technical innovations, ANDRITZ has introduced a new sleeve to the calender, the Racoflex plus. Josef Kohnen, says, “The Racoflex plus is an excellent new feature of the teXcal Raconip TT calender. It is made out of homogeneous composite material, which means it has an excellent bending behaviour. Also, and most importantly, this is combined with a high hardness. We are able to deliver Racoflex plus with up to 94 Shore D necessary for technical textiles. “The benefits of these new sleeve types bring means that the hardness keeps constant no matter what the temperature conditions on the roll are. A very smooth surface ensures high compression and gloss development in the fabric web.”

Technical Aspects of the texcal raconip TT As mentioned, the new calender was developed in cooperation with Rolf Ramisch, a well-known specialist in textile calender technology. The product name teXcal Raconip TT is composed of “Ra” (Ramisch) “Co” (controlled) “Nip” (Nip) “TT” (Technical Textiles). The new calender comes complete with an innovative, deflection-controlled roll – the newly developed Raconip roll. It offers maximum flexibility thanks to unrestricted profiling across the entire

fabric width by means of hydrostatic pistons. This guarantees the highest quality, such as absolute flatness and precise air permeability. The rotating sleeve of the Raconip deflectioncontrolled roll is supported on hydrostatic elements (pistons). The uniform, infinitely adjustable line force is transmitted to the sleeve via an oil film For this type of roll a wide variety of covers ANDRITZ teXcal Racoflex plus sleeve. and sleeves can be used: Polyamide sleeve: Racolan, glass-fiber reinforced plastic shell with cover: Racoflex, and a homogeneous composite sleeve: Racoflex plus. Variable adjustment of pressure zones according to fabric width is ensured with all sleeve types. The Racolan (polyamide) sleeve features high elasticity and high resilience. This sleeve is characterized by a

large resistance against indentations by seams, textile web edges and individual threads. Small scratches and surface defects can be equalized under pressure and temperature. Due to in-house manufacturing process (centrifugal casting) it offers an improved surface hardness. The Racoflex sleeve is a composite cover carried by a glass-fiber reinforced

Example for an asymmetric zone control with 11 zones

Dyeing, Printing and Finishing

Comparison of different sleeve elasticities (90-92 Shore D): Racoflex plus sleeve is the most flexible on the market

plastic shell (GRP-shell). The sleeve is characterized by a good adaptability to pressure relief and retraction forces in the edge area. It can be used as a carrier for a wide range of different covers and surface hardnesses. Also the use of a very soft rubber cover is possible. Available exclusively from ANDRITZ, the Racoflex plus is a special composite sleeve made of a homogeneous composite material that provides excellent flexibility and bending. A very smooth surface ensures high compression and gloss development in the fabric web. The shell hardness is in the range of 90 – 94 Shore D, combined with high temperature resistance. Constant

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - April 2021

hardness also at high operating temperature and small markings can be equalized easily under pressure and temperature. This has been proven by several stress tests in order to secure the reliability of the new sleeve. The elasticity of the Racoflex plus sleeve is even higher when compared to the GRP-shell (Racoflex). The Racoflex plus sleeve is the most flexible sleeve on the market in terms of product deviations. In addition, with the same edge retraction pressures as a GRP shell (Racoflex), the nip relief at the Racoflex plus sleeve is much more sharp-edged. The edges are completely “unloaded”. Besides two-roll calenders with individual configuration options, ANDRITZ also offers an innovative three-roll textile calendering concept which can also include the new Racoflex plus sleeve. The complete teXcal trike calender including the innovative sleeve, Racoflex plus, can be viewed in operation at ANDRITZ’s technical center for textile calendering in Krefeld, Germany. The installations at the technical center together with highly skilled process engineers are available to develop and ensure reliable technologies, optimize processes, evaluate new processes, and define parameters for product guarantees, as well as conduct trials before making an investment.

Getting Technical Features of the teXcal Raconip TT     

Fabric web – tension control Pre-heating of the textile fabric Safety concept Operator-friendly handling of machinery during production Constant, stable and repeatable production conditions and product quality

Technical features calender 



  



Infinitely adjustable line force of 30 – 400 N/mm, means up to 150 tonnes total load Standard roll surface width: up to 3,600 mm (larger width possible for special applications) Adjustable pressing width to suit change in web width New C-frame with optimized web infeed Innovative Raconip deflection controlled roll with new Racoflex plus sleeve technology Contactless temperature measurement of steel roll

Technical features Raconip roll    

Piston control within several zones Infinitely adjustable line force 30 400 N/mm Variable adjustment according fabric width Retraction of pistons for edge relief

Technical features Racoflex plus sleeve:   

Excellent bending behaviour for edge retraction and local corrections Temperature insensitivity Highest product quality based on a high roll smoothness. 

Mimaki reports success in a post pandemic world by Martial Granet, Branch Manager, Mimaki France The printers in Mimaki’s ‘100 series’ portfolio, which consists of the high quality, high productivity entry level rollto-roll inkjet printers the UJV100-160 UV and the JV100-160 solvent, and the high performance textile printer, the TS1001600, are a perfect reflection of the way technology requirements are adapting in line with the industry as Mimaki look to the future. To demonstrate this, the company has identified three postpandemic technology touchpoints that will help print businesses target success amid uncertainty.

Productivity The pandemic has served as a major catalyst for existing trends, and thus growing appetite for everything ondemand has been given a huge COVID-related boost. For printers, a digital solution that offers premium productivity, quality and efficiency at an entry-level price point is sure to be an invaluable investment to meet evolving ‘on-demand demands’. Adding a digital production element to your business doesn’t need to be daunting, complicated or overpriced – the Mimaki ‘100 series’ truly lives up to the tagline ‘Expert Printing Made Easy’, offering an incredibly intuitive user experience for streamlined, ultra-efficient printing, high-

quality output, and cost-effective implementation. The powerful and productive new textile printer in the ‘100 series’, the TS100-1600, is an example of equipment developed with the future of the market in mind – the textile industry is fast-paced and constantly innovating, and the printer you invest in needs to keep up with your creativity.

Diversity 2021 is set to be a period of transition. While that will mean navigating uncertainty, the ‘glass half full’ approach is to view the year ahead in terms of opportunities such as expanding your business, exploring alternative revenue streams, and taking the plunge into new markets. In the past, it may have felt as if the barriers to entry when it came to looking beyond your core business were too great. However, in a post-pandemic world, we need to break some of those barriers down and demonstrate that success with digital print is within reach if you invest in the right equipment. With the ‘100 series’ portfolio, Mimaki is acknowledging what print service providers need from their technology partners – the UJV100-160 and the JV100-160 are suitable for a wide range of applications that will allow you to easily and affordably diversify your

offering, and with the TS100-1600 textile printer, it has never been easier to target growth in the thriving textile sector, even in challenging times.

Affordability Affordability is one of the most significant barriers to entry into new markets. 2020 was a year of unprecedented economic challenges, so it’s more important than ever to be thinking about gaining a competitive edge, and the printers in the ‘100 series’ from Mimaki have been specifically formulated to help you ramp up productivity while keeping running costs low. Whether you want to take your first foray into digital print production, expand the services you offer or simply grow your customer base, cost can be a major sticking point, which is why supporting customers is Mimaki’s number one priority, designing the ‘100 series’ around your needs and continuing to listen to how those needs are developing. Making an investment in the JV100-160 in order to move into outdoor graphics; meeting demand for faster turnaround times by adding the instantly curable UJV100-160 to your production setup; or taking a leap into new revenue streams with the TS100-160 – it’s all ‘100’ percent accessible. 

Dyeing, Printing and Finishing

Biancalani technicians drive the R&D and innovations Some people are sort of programmed to see the whole puzzle before it’s been assembled. They simply think big with an eye for details. These professionals fuel innovation and progress in every sector and their opinion is essential, but often little-known. That’s why the topic is so interesting, particularly when it comes to the Meccano-textile world. And Biancalani has belonged to this sector for decades. “We often forget”, says Mr Massimo Biancalani, CEO of the company “that innovation can be a complex, multifaceted process. Biancalani has made a very specific choice, which is to get a position as a producer of alternative textile finishing machinery. The so-called input, the spark in the creative process, always comes from a question: what does the Meccano-textile sector lacks but could be desirable and beneficial?”

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - April 2021

“That’s what happened with AQUARIA®” Maurizio Toccafondi, R&D Manager, adds. “We were looking for a different view, something based on tradition and experience of course, but not trivial. Well, the result has been incredible: we managed to squeeze six points of force in a single machine, so to produce an alternative textile avantgarde. And obviously, it yields incredible results, some of them well-known and others all to be discovered.” “You could label the research phase as maniacal” explains Massimo Biancalani “but the correct term here is punctual because we are talking about the foundations of the design process. Opinions and data come from external collaborators, professionals, market analysis, statistics, the Internet and all is collected by the R&D department. These multifaceted impulses trigger the design

process. Technicians at Biancalani are very good at grasping the right details and that’s one of the reasons why the company recruited them.” “The design process is participative, there’s a continuous discussion to make the research phase work,” says Mr. Toccafondi. “It’s a daily brainstorming. You must forget formal timing marked by meetings that are only a tiny part of the whole thing. After a meeting, you don’t hold the ultimate design truth in your hands, you are just more informed and ready to change tack, if necessary. And often, it is necessary. Otherwise, it wouldn’t be a design phase.” The R&D Manager wants to make a point: “the design process must not let technological risks be an option, which happens with what we call poor machinery. If you cut to the bone during

Dyeing, Printing and Finishing

the design and production processes, you’ll end up producing supposedly groundbreaking machinery, and yet deprived of meaning. That’s a huge mistake. The technological content comes first. Every successful R&D operation should bear this in mind.”

shared in a free and continuous exchange of views. Biancalani has been gathering professionals of different age, background and specialization and their constructive dialogue have brought to such types of machinery such as AIRO®24, AIRBOX and AQUARIA®.”

He concludes, let’s say you have developed the machine. Now there’s another interesting step: the company becomes a consultant for the client, often their sole provider and a strong promoter of certain design philosophy. Biancalani is a strategic partner at this point.

“The actual design part,” Mr Biancalani says, “the technical phase I mean, is sort of a creative synthesizing. The ideas start coming and start being

“We are not talking about conventional, average textile machinery. And you feel proud you contributed to achieve such goals,” adds Mr. Toccafondi.

The top-level is reached when clients who are leaders in the textile finishing sector choose to test innovative machinery.”

Dyeing, Printing and Finishing

Diamond Fabrics Ltd (Lahore, Pakistan) implements BMSvision MES solution in its denim division Diamond Fabrics, part of Pakistan’s premier vertically integrated Sapphire Group, has selected Belgian based BMSvision as a partner for its prestigious MES project, keystone in the roadmap towards a I 4.0 company. Mr. Tayyab Abdullah explains: ”We were looking for a solution that goes far beyond the traditional production and machine monitoring. In order to prepare for an I 4.0 compliant manufacturing operation, we need a Manufacturing Execution System (MES) that can manage and track the entire production flow, from yarn to finished fabric. Furthermore, the system needs to seamlessly integrate with the SAP ERP system in place. After a thorough market research and various demo’s and workshops, we selected BMSvision as our partner because of their vast experience in the industry and the turnkey project approach including hardware, software and services”. In a first phase of the project, the warp preparation department including ball warping, sizing and rebeaming as well as the complete denim finishing department are covered. These are the most challenging operations within a denim mill. In a second phase, all looms will be connected. Each machine in the preparation and finishing department is equipped with a state-of-the-art touch screen based DU11 data collection terminal with wireless barcode scanner. Once the production orders are released by the SAP system, the planning department uses the BMSvision scheduling software (PlanBoard) to assign the orders to the individual machines. Orders are started at the machine by scanning the barcoded batch travel card. The PlantView application visualizes the complete production process in real time and highlights any possible deviation from standard. A powerful reporting tool featuring interactive reports and charts, allows the users to create their own calculations and reports. After each production step, the MES systems prints a barcoded ticket and all relevant production data is transferred to the SAP system. Diamond’s request to monitor and document the flow of goods throughout the whole production

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - April 2021

Dyeing, Printing and Finishing chain, to be able to trace all materials used and to know the current status Work in Process all the time, is handled by BMSvision’s traceability module. Besides managing the production flow, Diamond Denim also implements the BMSvision EnergyMaster solution. Mr. Tayyab Abdullah: “Energy consumption is becoming a very important factor in the overall operating cost of our factory. With ever rising energy prices and increasing environmental legislation, energy management has become a very critical success factor to run our business in a profitable way. The EnergyMaster system makes all our energy streams transparent and allows to allocate the exact energy cost to each production batch”. The finishing lines are equipped with power meters and various flow meters to monitor consumption of compressed air, steam, water, gas and caustic. All these meters are connected to the DU11 data collection terminal and combining consumption with production data allows correct calculation of the energy cost for each production batch. Excessive consumptions or consumptions while the machine is idle, are immediately detected and highlighted. BMSvision is proud to be a partner of Diamond Fabrics in the continuous improvement program of their operations.BMSvision is represented in Pakistan by ZONA Technologies.

About Sapphire Textile Group Sapphire Textile Group is one of the largest textile producers and exporters in Pakistan. The manufacturing from yarn to finished fabric is done in various plants using the most advanced machinery and equipment. Its customer base includes the industry’s biggest names in Asia, Europe and North America.

About BMSvision BMSvision, established in 2007 as a carve-out from the Barco group, is a leading supplier of Manufacturing Execution Systems (MES) for discrete manufacturing, with focus on the textile and plastics industry. Under the brand name BMSvision (formerly BarcoVision) and with over 40 years of experience as a former division of the Barco group, BMSvision offers a wide range of systems aimed at productivity, quality improvement and energy management. BMSvision is present at key locations around the world, either with own branch offices or through a world wide network of agents and service centers.

Classified

ADVERTISERS INDEX APRIL 2021

ACIMIT .....................................................................19 Andritz Kusters ...........................................................3 APR Sateri .................................................................31 Archroma .............................................................IFC, 23 AVM Chemicals ...................................................6 & 58 Biancalani ..................................................................FC Chhipasons................................................................58 CCI USA....................................................................BC iTextiles ......................................................................9 ITMA ASIA + CITME 2021 ........................................IBC Jet Logistics................................................................58 Monforts.....................................................................1 Mesdan......................................................................13 Rastgar.............................................................. 27 & 58 Established 1951

Established 1951 February 2021

Swissmem..................................................................11 Santex Rimar Group ....................................................17 Texgro........................................................................25 Uster ..........................................................................15

Spinning Review

March 2021

Swiss Review

Pakistan Textile Journal, April 2021

Articles inside

Diamond Fabrics Ltd (Lahore, Pakistan) implements BMSvision MES solution in its denim division

ANDRITZ presents new generation of textile calendering

Mimaki reports success in a post pandemic world

strive for new paths together

Jeanologia join forces with Cone Denim to Launch Mission Zero Goal

Biancalani technicians drive the R&D and innovations

management across the textile supply chain

Monforts denim customers highlight sustaniable production

Processing of Weft-Stretch Spandex Woven Fabrics

Modern compressed air systems for spinning mills in Pakistan

Uster Quantum 4.0 yarn clearer offers spinners the best of both worlds

New Live FESPA Virtual Event series helps printers get fit for recovery

Sateri unveiled the new recycled fibre FINEXTM

Cotton Trust Protocol adopts TextileGenesis blockchain for sustainable cotton farming

DSM and MKU Ltd. provide high-performance, lightweight ballistic protection

Mdevan’s Natural Allergen Control Technology Effective Against Pollen as well

Sateri to expand Lyocell production in China