Pakistan Textile Journal – February 2022 by Pakistan Textile Journal

Established 1951 February 2022

Spinning Review

Calendar of Events

Techtextil 2022, Frankfurt Dates: June 21st to 24th, 2022

Textile Asia 2022, Faisalabad

Venue: Frankfurt am Main.

Cinte Techtextil China International Trade Fair for Technical Textiles and Nonwovens

Dates: March 26th to 28th 2022. Venue: Faisalabad Expo Centre.

Dates: September 6th to 8th, 2022. Venue: Shanghai New International Expo Centre, Shanghai, China

Heimtextil 2022, Frankfurt FILTECH 2022

Dates: June 21st to 24th, 2022 th

Dates: March 8 to 10 , 2022

Venue: Frankfurt am Main.

Venue: Cologne, Germany.

ITMA ASIA + CITME 2022 Dates: November 20th to 24th, 2022. Venue: NECC, Shanghai, China.

Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles Dates: April 14th to 16th 2022.

Apparel Sourcing Paris Autumn Dates: July 4th to 6th 2022. Venue: Paris

Venue: Shanghai, China.

DOMOTEX Hannover 2023 Dates: January 12th to 15th 2023. Venue: Hannover, Germany.

DOMOTEX asiaCHINAFLOOR 2022 Dates: May 25th to 27th 2022. Venue: NECC, Shanghai, China.

INTEX SOUTH ASIA 2022 Dates: July 27th to 29th 2022. Venue: Colombo, Sri Lanka.

Istanbul Yarn Fair Dates: February 16th to 18th 2023. Venue: Istanbul, Turkey.

FESPA 2022

iCADEX Pakistan 2022, Lahore st

Dates: May 31 to June 3 2022. Venue: Berlin, Germany.

ITM 2022

Dates: September 1st to 4th 2022. Venue: Expo Centre, Lahore.

IGATEX Pakistan 2022, Lahore

Index 2023 Dates: April 18th to 21th, 2023. Venue: Palexpo, Geneva, Switzerland.

ITMA 2023

Dates: June 14th to 18th, 2022.

Dates: September 1st to 4th 2022.

Dates: June 8th to 14th, 2023.

Venue: Istanbul, Turkey.

Venue: Expo Centre, Lahore.

Venue: Milan, Italy.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - February 2022

Founded in 1951 by Mazhar Yusuf (1924-2009) Vol. LXXI No. 02 February 2022

Rs. 565.00

Publisher Nadeem Mazhar Editor in Chief Amina Baqai Associate Editor Dr. Noor Ahmed Memon Associate Editor Shahnawaz Khan Production Manager Mazhar Ali

EDITOR’S PAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 The spinning sector is the backbone of the textile sector of Pakistan.

TEXTILE BRIEFS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 NEWS & VIEWS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 AROUND THE WORLD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Hony-Editorial Board

CORPORATE NEWS Italian Textile Machinery: Orders grow again in 2021 fourth quarter (+43%). . . .20

Dr. Hafizur Rehman Sheikh

BB Engineering GmbH delivers melt filter for PET recycling system to Indorama

Ph.D (UK) F.T.I. (UK)

Polyester Industries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

Syed Mahfooz Qutab C.TEX, F.T.I (U.K), B.Sc. Fellow I.C.T.T Atlanta, GA; (USA)

Dr. Zubair Bandukda PhD (Textiles), CText ATI

Editorial & Advertising Office B-4, 2nd Floor, 64/21, M.A.C.H, Miran M. Shah Road, Karachi - Pakistan Tel: +92-21-34311674-5 Fax: +92-21-34533616 Email: info@ptj.com.pk URL: http://www.ptj.com.pk

20 DYES AND CHEMICALS Archroma and Jeanologia launch eco-conscious denim cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Huntsman textile effects pushes boundaries with sustainability and innovation .26

PTJ Europe Ltd. Correspondence & Mailing address: PTJ Europe Ltd. 93 Fleming Place, Bracknell, RG12 2GN, United Kingdom Tel: +44 792 2228 721

FAIRS AND EXHIBITIONS “ITM 2022, Will be the largest event where global brands and professionals will meet with great interest”(Adil Nalbant, President TEMSAD) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 CNR KONFEK redefines innovation in the garment industry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29

Registered Office: Dairy House, Money Row Green, Holyport, Maidenhead, Berkshire, SL6 2ND, UK Registered no. 09141989

Intex South Asia 2022 - International Textile Sourcing Show . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 Texworld Evolution Paris: the international trade fair for the fashion industry returns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

Available on Gale and Factiva affiliated international databases through Asianet Pakistan

Printed at: Color Plus Korangi, Karachi. Published by Nadeem Mazhar from D-16, K.D.A. Scheme No.1. Karachi.

36 34 PERSONALIA Koshiro Kudo to become new President of Asahi Kasei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34

FEATURE Fashionable without hurting the environment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36

FIBRES AND YARNS Knitting Yarns Collection Spring Summer 23 by Marchi & Fildi and Filidea at Pitti Filati . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Sateri Completes Higg Facility Social and Labour Module Assessment for Responsible Manufacturing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40

SPINNING REVIEW Pakistan's cotton yarn exports continue the declining trend . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 by Prof. Dr. Noor Ahmed Memon, Dadabhoy Institute of Higher Education.

How to prevent Fiber Rupture? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 Rieter: First information on the financial year 2021 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 Uster: Spinners know what they want . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48 … and how to get it with Uster RSO 3D

CCI: Regenerative agriculture takes sustainable fashion to the next level . . . . .50

Trützschler: TCO 21: The next generation comber machine . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52 Saurer sells its embroidery business to Lässer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Marzoli Roving Frame: Efficiency, Flexibility and Productivity . . . . . . . . . . . . .56 Rieter: Easy Processing of Dusty Linen-Viscose Blend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58 Vandewiele Belgium and Savio India finalise merger . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60 Graf: Circular combs and top combs for all applications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61 Highest fiber yield at consistently high productivity with Graf’s comb system

Xuzhou Huasheng Textile Co Ltd. China / Loepfe Yarn Clearers are our Best Choice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62

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EDITOR’S PAGE

The spinning sector is the backbone of the textile sector of Pakistan The spinning sector is the backbone of the textile sector of Pakistan. According to the Textiles Commissioners Organization (TCO), it comprises 517 textile units (40 composite units and 477 spinning units) with 13.414 million spindles and 198,801 rotors installed and 11.338 million spindles and 126,583 rotors in operation with capacity utilization of 84.55 per cent and 63.67 per cent, respectively.

Established 1951 February 2022

Spinning Review

The textile industry is the largest manufacturing industry in Pakistan and the 8th largest exporter of textiles in Asia, contributing 8.5% to the GDP of Pakistan. In addition, the sector employs about 45% of the total labour force in the country (and 38% of the manufacturing workers). Pakistan is the 4th largest cotton producer with the third largest spinning capacity in Asia after China and India and contributes 5% to the global spinning capacity. There are 1,221 ginning units, 442 spinning units, 124 large spinning units, and 425 small units that produce textiles. Pakistan has emerged as one of the major cotton textile suppliers globally, with a share of the global yarn and cotton fabric trade of about 30% and 8%, respectively, maintaining the sector as a backbone of industrial activity for the country. The annual volume of the total world textile and clothing trade is more than US$ 785 billion in 2019; Pakistan's share is less than 3%.

February 2022

Cotton production during the current season has improved considerably due to favourable weather conditions. However, the country remains reliant on imports to meet the remaining demand, and the rising international cotton prices will put pressure on the sector's margins. Due to exchange rate volatility, a greater reliance on imported raw materials also increases currency risk exposure. Pakistan's polyester demand took a steep dip in FY20, registering a fall of 26 per cent year-on-year, owing to a halt in business activities and reduced demand from the textile sector. However, the market has recovered since then. The spinning sector is the backbone of the ranking of textile production. The rapid increase in spinning capacity due to technological advances has substantially increased cotton production and related products. Pakistan's spinning sector caters not only to the requirements of the domestic industry but also about one-third of the total output of yarn is exported to different destinations. Pakistan's cotton imports were US$1.91 Billion in 2021, according to the United Nations COMTRADE database on international trade. Pakistan exported cotton yarn worth US$1Billion in 2020-21. However, yarn exports have declined from a high of 522 million kgs in 2017-18 to 390 MN kgs in 2020-21. In terms of value, cotton yarn exports declined from 1.37 BN US$ in 2017-18 to US$1BN in 2020-21. The Pakistani textile industry, considered the backbone of the export sector, faces new issues that should be dealt with promptly. The quality of Pakistani yarn brings back global buyers who are disappointed by inconsistent and low-quality Indian yarn. However, Pakistani yarn manufacturers are not able to match Indian rates that are subsidized by their government. While the industry is expected to nearly double exports to US$ 25 billion by 2024, many of the challenges long faced by the sector have not been addressed. 

Textile Briefs National

Pakistan’s textile exports have touched a historic high of US$11billion during 7MFY22, up by 25% YoY, data released by the Pakistan Bureau of Statistics recently.

Bilateral trade has been increased since the second phase of the China-Pakistan Free Trade Agreement came into effect in 2020, and more Pakistani products have been able to enter the Chinese market. Tariffs on some 75 percent of goods from both sides have been gradually reduced to zero since 2020.

Readymade garments during the first six months of the fiscal

year of 2021-22 grew by 22.93pc as compared to the exports of the commodity during the corresponding period of last year. During the period from July-Dec 2021, Readymade garments worth US$1,831,856 exported, as compared to exports of US$1,490,157 during the same period of last year. The textile sector of Pakistan is all set to swell due to record exports after gaining an edge over its South Asian competitors Bangladesh and India amid the Covid-19 pandemic. The country's textile exports are expected to surge

40% from a year earlier to a record US$21 billion in the 12 months ending in June bringing cheer to its flailing economy. The leather goods exports witnessed an increase of 9.41 percent during the first half of the financial year (2021-22). Pakistan exported leather goods worth US$319.791 million during July-December (2021-22) against the exports of US$292.279 million during July-December (2020-21).

Pakistan has lost textile exports of US$250 million in December 2021 in the wake of gas supply

closure to the sector in Punjab for 15 days. According to Chairman

Oman Chamber of Commerce and

Industry, their country is interested in importing more of textile products, meat and livestock; fruits and vegetable; surgical goods and skilled and semi-skilled workforce from Pakistan. According to MoC, the

issue of gas prices for the textile and apparel

sectors, assumed in the Textile and Apparel Policy 2020-25 including Captive Power Plants (CPPs) are yet to be resolved.

Textile Briefs International

The assessment of Australian cotton has been commissioned by the Cotton Research and Development Corporation (CRDC), Cotton Australia, and the industry’s Sustainability Working Group and is being conducted by global firm GHD.

According to BGMEA officials, Bangladesh government should ensure proper implementation of the national chemical guideline for the domestic textile and garment industry to boost exports. The guideline should be implemented fruitfully.

Cotton prices in Brazil have been in an upward trend since mid-2020, and, in 2021, they

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hit the highest nominal levels of the CEPEA (Center for Advanced Studies on Applied Economics) series. The China Chamber of Commerce for Import and Export of Textiles recently urged the United States to revoke all its sanctions on Xinjiang-made textiles.

On the occasion of the EU-Africa Business Summit, EURATEX is re-iterating the ambition of the European textile industry to grow its role on global markets, including the African continent.

The allocation for the Indian textile sector for the year 2022-23 in the Union Budget stands at

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - December 2021

about INR12,382.14 crore, which is about 8.1 percent higher than the revised budget allocation of 202122.

Exports of cotton yarn, fabrics, and handloom products in India from April to December 2021 reached US$11.29 billion, an increase of 66 percent over exports of US$6.8 billion in the corresponding period of the previous fiscal year.

5.415 billion in 2021. While

Japan's fashion industry is undergoing a makeover, pledging to go green to shed the scourge of pollution associated with the trade, since fashion is said to be the second-most pollutive industry globally, after the oil industry.

The apparel and textile exports from the South Asian island nation of

Sri Lanka rose by 22.93 percent year-on-year to US$ clothing exports increased by 25.7 percent, exports of woven fabrics surged drastically by 99.84 percent during the year.

Thailand’s export of textiles has soared and is expected to grow by 15 percent. Thai textile exports were also boosted by demand from other apparelproducing countries like Vietnam, Indonesia, India, Europe, and the United States, and the trend for environment-friendly products. 

China commits $10-$15 billion investments’ Pakistan has received commitments from China for getting investments of $10-$15 billion for various sectors, including for establishing industrial units at 2,200 acres of Gwadar Free Zone, exploring the possibility to establish oil refinery at Pasni and relocation of industries into seven important sectors, including textile, footwear and pharmaceuticals into upcoming the Special Economic Zones. Adviser to the Prime Minister on CPEC, Khalid Mansoor, has said that Pakistan took steps to address the outstanding concerns of Chinese investors such as payment of dues to independent power producers, making revolving funds functional and changing the Special Economic Zones (SEZ) Act. This change in the SEZ Act will pave the way to bypass 37 approvals for federal and provincial governments for making investments in SEZs. "The government has paid Rs50 billion to IPPs while another installment of the same amount will be given by the end of the ongoing month. The Revolving Fund has been made functional," PM's Adviser on China Pakistan Economic Corridor (CPEC) Khalid Mansoor said while addressing a news conference. The Pakistani delegation under PM Imran Khan had returned from China after attending Olympics Winter 2022 and on the

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - February 2022

sidelines, they held meetings with Chinese leadership, including President Xi Jin Ping. Khalid Mansoor said that a number of companies came up with investment proposals for the phase-2 of CPEC that would entail multi-billion dollar investments in Pakistan. He said most Chinese companies had shown their interest to invest in the country. He said the prime minister had about 20 back-toback meetings with top executives of Fortune-500 companies to attract investment. The adviser said that the Chinese companies had been facilitated with a compliance regime and they were not required to obtain NOCs from 37 different departments before launching any investment project in the special economic zones. They would be required to comply with the Pakistani law that would be audited later and subjected to penalties and other fallbacks in case of violations of law.

New textile policy seeks to boost exports While doing away with the existing mechanism for the provision of gas and electricity at subsidized fixed rates, the government has approved a new Textile Policy, envisaging to double its exports target up to $42 billion over the next three years. Textile exports of $21 billion during the current fiscal year 2021-22 against

$15 billion materialized in the last financial year. Under the newly placed mechanism to link provisions of energy supplies for textile exports with international competitive prices, the government has extended guarantees for continuous provisions of gas and electricity at “internationally and regionally competitive prices” from the next budget 2022-23 instead of supplying at existing fixed rates. It clearly indicates that the prices of gas and electricity for the textile sector may be revised upward from the next fiscal year 2022-23 starting from July 1, 2022. Now the rates of gas and electricity will be fixed on an annualized basis to align them with competitive international prices on the occasion of every budget announcement. Thus, the government has done away from the existing mechanism whereby the government is providing electricity at 6.5 cents per unit and gas at $6.5/mmbtu for the textile sector. The government had jacked up prices of electricity up to 9 cents for captive power plants recently. Interestingly, the incumbent PTI-led regime’s tenure will end next year in 2023 but the cabinet approved the textile policy for three years beyond its term and it is unknown whether the coming government into power will stick to this approved policy or not. The Textile Policy approved by the cabinet envisaged three years target as textile exports will be jacked up to $27

billion in the fiscal year 2022-23, $34 billion in 2023-24, and $42 billion in the fiscal year 2024-25. The government has fixed textile exports target of $21 billion during the current fiscal year. He said that initially the first draft of Textile Policy had asked for fixed prices of electricity and gas provisions for textile exports but later on it was envisaged that the textile sector would be provided competitive prices to bring them at par with international and regional competitors keeping in view the rising energy prices in the international market.

Argentina to collaborate with Pakistan in enhancing cotton production Argentina will collaborate with Pakistan in enhancing cotton production and value addition of different commodities and livestock products. It was said by Ambassador of Argentine Leopoldo Francisco Sahores while addressing the business community at Faisalabad Chamber of Commerce & Industry. He expressed concern about the decline in cotton production in Pakistan and said that the foreign exchange earning textile sector was totally dependent on cotton and the decline in its production Ambassador Leopoldo Francisco Sahores was very embarrassing for your country. He said that Pakistan must enhance the per acre yield of cotton to ensure adequate supply of raw material to the textile sector. He said that his country could help Pakistan in enhancing cotton productivity with innovative technologies in addition to the value addition of different commodities. He said that he has just taken over his diplomatic responsibility in Pakistan but he is fully aware of the trade-related issues. Earlier, president Atif Munir Sheikh introduced Faisalabad and FCCI and said that Faisalabad was the third largest hub of industry which was also contributing a major role to job creation. He said that although textile was the iconic representation of this city. He said that Argentina could share its technology with Pakistani industrialists.

Synthetic fiber can accelerate textile exports Industry experts believe that by substituting cotton with synthetic fiber, Pakistan can further boost the textile exports far above the $30 billion mark. In a statement issued recently, Federation of Pakistan Chambers of Commerce and Industry (FPCCI) Vice President Hanif Lakhany pointed out that cotton prices had almost doubled in the international market over the past few days. “This raw material alone accounts for 60% of our total production cost,” he underlined. He was of the view that despite contributing massively towards the uplift of Pakistan’s economy - in terms of exports and local employment - the textile industry was

News & Views facing huge challenges. Pointing out the factors, he said that the “ever-increasing electricity tariffs” coupled with severe gas outages and dwindling domestic cotton production was taking a toll on the industry. Lakhany emphasized the need to restore domestic production to previous levels by fixing a support price for cotton similar to other crops. He also suggested diversification of the raw material sources by incorporating all major synthetic fibers. “It will require massive subsidized funding for the procurement of new machinery and plants,” he underlined. In this regard, the government should play its role by encouraging the production of synthetic fiber, as it was more durable than natural fiber. Moreover, the government should take measures to provide consistent energy supply to the industry, so that the companies could complete their production process smoothly, he said. Such measures would help the textile industry to surpass the government’s export target of $26 billion set for FY23, he underlined.

GST is Impacting Pakistan’s Export Competitiveness: IMF The Fund in its latest report on Pakistan noted that at the final stage, the factory produces a dress for export, and even though export is zero-rated, the exporter will have to charge a higher price compared to the fully harmonized system. Not all taxation is removed from exports and additional costs are incurred in each segment of the production value chain, which disadvantages them in the international market. The Fund quoted an example that the cotton ginning company buys Rs. 1,000 value of raw materials for production of cotton fiber, and with GST rate of 10 percent, pay total sales tax on goods of Rs. 100. In addition to purchased raw material, it also uses certain services for Rs. 500, like transportation, consulting, marketing. Assuming the same tax rate of 10 percent on services, it pays additional Rs. 50 in taxes. Input tax paid is, therefore: Rs. 100 (to the federal government) + Rs. 50 (to a province) = Rs. 150. Total input

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - February 2022

costs are (1000+500+100+50) = 1650. The company then adds the value of Rs. 100 and sells the cotton fiber to a textile manufacturer.

successful disbursement as credit positive,

Given the fragmented tax base, it will be very difficult for the cotton company to claim and collect tax credits on input tax on services (Rs. 50) initially paid, and the sale price will carry over that segment of the tax.

widening in the current-account deficit as

The sale price will therefore be: total input costs (1650) + value added (100) – input tax that will be credited after the sale, in this case on goods (100) = Rs. 1650, instead of Rs. 1600 in a fully harmonized GST system. At the sale stage, the company will collect an output tax of Rs. 165 and remit it to the Federal Board of Revenue (FBR) but will only be refunded for the portion of the input tax. The net tax paid by the cotton ginning company will be 165–100=65, instead of 160–100–50=10 in a system of fully harmonized GST. In other words, the effective tax rate will be 65 percent (tax paid/value-added), significantly diverging from the nominal tax rate of 10 percent. In the next stage, the textile manufacturer, in addition to purchasing cotton fiber for Rs. 1650, uses certain input services of Rs. 800 and produces finished fabrics. Similar to the previous stage, the textile manufacturer pays input taxes of Rs. 245 = Rs. 165 (on goods) + Rs. 80 (on services), adds a value of Rs. 200, and sells the fabrics to a garment factory for Rs. 2,730 = Rs. 2,308+10 percent GST (230.8). If only input tax on goods will be recovered, the net tax paid by the textile manufacturer will be Rs. 108, while in the case of fully harmonized GST the producer will pay only Rs. 20. The production costs for the textile manufacturer are therefore Rs. 40 higher compared to a fully harmonized tax base regime.

Moody’s Latest Report Reveals Pakistan’s Economy on Path of Recovery Moody’s Investor Service has termed International Monetary Fund’s (IMF)

shoring up Pakistan’s foreign exchange reserves, which had faced significant pressures in recent months amid a sharp higher global oil and commodity prices contributed to a yawning goods trade deficit. The credit rating agency acknowledges Pakistan’s reform progress in its recent report. Moody’s report recalled that, IMF completed the sixth review under the Extended Fund Facility (EEF) for Pakistan (B3 stable), unlocking an additional $1 billion under the $6 billion loan facility. Under the programme, the Pakistani government has committed to several structural reforms, with a view to placing the economy on a path of sustainable and balanced growth. Progress in its reform agenda has previously helped Pakistan successfully unlock $2 billion in disbursements from the IMF program. The credit rating agency explained that from July to December 2021, the current-account deficit was a cumulative $9.0 billion, compared with a surplus of $1.2 billion during the same period a year earlier. The rapid widening in the currentaccount deficit led to a drawdown in foreign-exchange reserves, which declined to $14.4 billion in November 2021 from $18.9 billion in July 2021, according to IMF data (see Exhibit 2). The injection of $3 billion financing from Saudi Arabia (A1 stable) to Pakistan in December boosted the latter’s foreign reserves to $16 billion in that month. In light of these findings, Moody projects the current-account deficit to widen to 3.0-3.5% of GDP in the fiscal year 2022. Thereafter, it also expects a moderation in global oil and commodity prices to contain growth in the import bill, while the ongoing global economic recovery supports exports and remittance inflows. It assumes that the currentaccount deficit will narrow and stabilise.

AUSTRALIA Australian cotton industry appoints experts to reassess performance The Australian cotton industry has commissioned an independent expert to conduct an in-depth assessment of its environmental performance. The assessment has been commissioned by the Cotton Research and Development Corporation (CRDC), Cotton Australia, and the industry’s Sustainability Working Group and is being conducted by global firm GHD. It is the fourth external examination of cotton’s environmental performance in 30 years. The assessment will review the industry’s response to the recommendations from the third environmental assessment in 2012. It will also identify current and emerging environmental issues and their implications, and assess current action against these, Cotton Australia said in a press release. “Cotton was the first major Australian agricultural industry to seek a full independent assessment of its environmental impact back in 1991, marking the first cotton-wide

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - February 2022

commitment to improved sustainability,” said CRDC general manager for R&D investment, Allan Williams. The assessment will include a combination of desktop research, interviews with industry stakeholders, and on-farm visits to farms of all sizes across all growing regions from December 2021 to June 2022. “Further assessments in 2003 and 2012 have showcased progress and driven further improvements, and collectively, the industry has committed to undertake assessments every 10 years,” added Williams. Industry bodies including the best management practices program, myBMP, the industry’s extension program, CottonInfo, and sustainability programs will also be reviewed to gauge responsiveness to environmental issues, and on-farm practices will be assessed to ensure they are in line with current and future expectations and trends. “This independent assessment will reveal what we are already doing well, and importantly, also show us what we can do better. We are committed to continuously reviewing and improving our performance. The assessment is extremely important to the industry,” Cotton Australia CEO Adam Kay said.

BANGLADESH Bangladesh urged to properly implement the national chemical guideline Experts recently urged the Bangladesh government to ensure proper implementation of the national chemical guideline for the domestic textile and garment industry to boost exports. They were participating in a discussion on the draft national chemical management guidelines for the textile and garments industry of Bangladesh organized by the commerce ministry. The guideline should be implemented fruitfully, according to Asif Ashraf, a director of Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporter Association (BGMEA). He said buyers have different requirements to ensure safety and the domestic garment makers will have to build up capacity in chemical management, he said. On behalf of the German government, the Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) GmbH is helping the Bangladesh commerce ministry to develop the guideline. The guideline is aimed at protecting workers from chemicals, and

preventing or reducing the incidence of chemical-induced illnesses and injuries. According to the draft, the guideline would be applied to any work activity in textiles and readymade garment manufacturing where chemicals are used.

BRAZIL Brazilian cotton index CEPEA/ESALQ soars 68.2% in 2021 After witnessing an increase of 42 percent in 2020, Brazil’s CEPEA/ESALQ Index for cotton soared 68.2 percent in 2021, closing at BRL 6.4085/pound on December 27. Lower production, firm demand, higher international cotton price, high dollar levels against real, and an increase in export parity price are the reasons for the price increase. Cotton prices in Brazil have been in an upward trend since mid-2020, and, in 2021, they hit the highest nominal levels of the CEPEA (Center for Advanced Studies on Applied Economics) series. Moreover, a high share of production traded beforehand through contracts to export reduced the availability of cotton in the spot market during the year. The export parity price moved up by 48 percent from December 30, 2020, to December 27, 2021, boosted by the 8.68 percent dollar increase against real, and the Cotlook A Index, which rose by 47 percent in the same period. In December 2021, the Index averaged BRL 6.3537/pound, which is a record in nominal terms. In real terms (IGP-DI November 2021), the average price in December is the highest since April 2011, when it was BRL 8.3193/pound. Meanwhile, data from CONAB, the National Supply Company, indicate that compared to the previous season, the planted area decreased by 17.7 percent in the 202021 season to 1.37 million hectares. In addition, productivity decreased by 4.5 percent to 1,721 kg/hectare. So, the total cotton production in the 202021 seasons is expected to decline 21.4 percent to 2.36 million tons. In 2021, from January to December, Brazil exported 1.94 million tons of cotton, i.e., 9 percent less compared to the record registered in 2020.

CHINA Chinese textile chamber urges the US to revoke sanctions on Xinjiang items The China Chamber of Commerce for Import and Export of Textiles recently urged the United States to revoke all its sanctions on Xinjiang-made textiles. The US move completely violated market principles and the rules

Around the World of the World Trade Organisation, disrupted international trade order, and severely damaged the interests of textileapparel manufacturers and consumers on both sides, the chamber said in a statement. The United States recently signed the ‘Uyghur Forced Labour Prevention Act’ into law, which bans imports of textilerelated products from China's Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region (XUAR). The US accusation of the so-called ‘forced labor’ issue is purely fabricated out of thin air and has no factual basis, the statement said. It stressed that China's textile and apparel industry has been committed to safeguarding workers' rights and interests, and has provided stable and efficient supply chain services for the global market, official Chinese media reported. For the common interests of both sides, the chamber is willing to strengthen communication with related organizations and sectors from the United States, and strive to maintain the stability of bilateral economic and trade relations in the textile and apparel industry, the statement added.

EUROPEAN UNION European textile industry needs to grow its role on global markets On the occasion of the EU-Africa Business Summit, EURATEX is re-iterating the ambition of the European textile industry to grow its role on global markets, including the African continent. The textile ecosystem is considered the 2nd most globalized sector of the European economy; it is built on globalized supply chains and fierce competition with China, the US, Bangladesh, Turkey, and many others.

quality and innovative products, made sustainably. As emerging markets evolve, the appetite for better quality, comfort, and design will grow. The ability and willingness to purchase technical textiles, which offer solutions to durability and improved performance, will increase. That is where Europe can be successful. To illustrate: the EU’s exports to China have increased by 33% in 2021 (first 11 months). In its vision paper on the future of European textiles and apparel, EURATEX has confirmed its ambition to increase the global market share of the European textile industry. Strengthening relations with nearby Turkey and North African countries is important in this regard, offering opportunities for nearshoring.

INDIA India Budget 2022-23: Allocation for the textile sector up 8.1%01

was later revised to INR 11,449.32 crore mainly due to increased allocation for procurement of cotton by Nirmala Sitharaman; Cotton Finance Minister India Corporation of India (CCI) under ‘Price Support Scheme’ from INR 136 crore initially to INR 8,439.88 crore. For the financial year 2022-23, the allocation is INR 9,243.09 crore, which is about 9.5 percent higher than the revised allocation of last year. In the present Budget, the government has allocated about INR 133.83 crores for Textile Cluster Development Scheme, and hence the total budget allocation for Research and Capacity Building in textiles increased by 73.4 percent to reach about INR 478.83 crores in 2022-23, as compared to the revised budget allocation of INR 276.10 crores in 2021-22.

Imports are now peaking at Euros 115 billion (ca. 60% garments and 40% textiles), with a dramatic increase of imported medical textiles (face masks) in 2020. Every year, 22 billion pieces of textile and garment products are brought into the EU Single Market.

The allocation for the textile sector for the year 2022-23 in the Union Budget presented by finance minister Nirmala Sitharaman stands at about INR12,382.14 crore, which is about 8.1 percent higher than the revised budget allocation of 2021-22 which stands at about INR 11,449.32 crores. However, no funds are allocated towards Powerloom Promotion Scheme.

For 2022-23, the government has also omitted funds for North East Textiles Promotion Scheme, which was INR 49.94 crore last year.

Europe’s answer to this competitive pressure must be to invest even more in

Budget allocation during 2021-22 initially was INR 3,631.64 crore, but it

The government has also allocated INR 105 crores for the year 2022-23

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - February 2022

The recently announced Production Linked Incentive (PLI) scheme and PM Mega Integrated Textile Region and Apparel (PM MITRA) scheme also saw an allocation of INR 15 crores each for 2022-23.

Around the World towards the Raw Material Supply Scheme, which has already been approved for implementation during the period from 2021-22 to 2025-26.

India’s Cotton Textile Exports Grow in 2021 Exports of cotton yarn, fabrics, and handloom products from April to December 2021 reached US$11.29 billion, an increase of 66 percent over exports of US$6.8 billion in the corresponding period of the previous fiscal year. However, the rise in exports from the sector slowed in December 2021, according to data from India’s ministry of commerce and industry. December cotton textile exports stood at US$ 1.44 billion, an increase of 46.19 percent over the US$ 987.76 million in exports seen in December 2020, the government data showed. Apparel exports also grew from April to December 2021, up 35.62 percent year-on-year to US$ 11.12 billion. Growth in apparel exports also slowed in December 2021, rising by 22.63 percent to US$ 1.47 billion over US$ 1.2 billion in the same month of 2020. India’s total textile and clothing exports grew by 30.43 percent to US$ 3.84 billion in December 2021, from US$ 2.94 billion in December 2020.

JAPAN Japan's fashion industry gets a green makeover Japan's fashion industry is undergoing a makeover, with labels such as Asics, Muji, and Uniqlo pledging to go green to shed the scourge of pollution associated with the trade. Fashion is said to be the second-most pollutive industry globally,

after the oil industry, with massive amounts of carbon dioxide emitted and water sucked up across the supply chain, not to mention the tonnes of clothing that are thrown away and incinerated each year. Data from Japan's Ministry of the Environment last year shows that the production of one piece of garment involves, on average, the release of 25.5kg of carbon dioxide into the air and the use of about 2,300 liters of water. For clothes sold in Japan, an estimated 95 million tonnes of carbon dioxide are emitted each year - or 4.5 percent of the total emissions of the global fashion trade - with about 8.4 billion cubic m of water consumed - or 9 percent of the global trade. Yet, an average of 480,000 tonnes of clothing are incinerated or buried in landfills each year, with just 34 percent reused or recycled, noted the ministry. "Given the interconnected supply chain, a lot of resources are being tapped worldwide to make each piece of clothing, and the environmental burden is growing with more clothing being produced," the ministry said. Japan's official pledge in 2020 to achieve carbon neutrality by 2050, and to

slash its greenhouse gas emissions by at least 46 percent from 2013 levels by 2030, has spurred companies to take action.

SRI LANKA Sri Lanka’s apparel & textile exports up 22.93% in 2021 The apparel and textile exports from the South Asian island nation of Sri Lanka rose by 22.93 percent year-on-year to US$ 5.415 billion in 2021. While clothing exports increased by 25.7 percent, exports of woven fabrics surged drastically by 99.84 percent during the year. Exports to the UK shot up by 15.22 percent during the 12 months. In December 2021, the export earnings from apparel and textile improved by 17.88 percent y-o-y to US$531.05 million with a strong performance in exports of apparel (17.56 percent) and woven fabrics (86.18 percent), according to the provisional data released by Sri Lanka Export Development Board (EDB). Sri Lanka’s overall earnings from export were recorded at US$15.12 billion from January to December 2021, including the estimated services data from October to December. Releasing the data, the country’s trade minister Dr. Bandula Gunawardena appreciated the contribution of exporters to the economy, despite the unprecedented economic conditions they had to deal with and assured them of US$20 billion target this year. At the Sri Lanka Economic Summit 2021 organized by the Ceylon Chamber

Around the World of Commerce (CCC) in December 2021, Hirdaramani Group director Aroon Hirdaramani said that Sri Lanka’s apparel sector targets exports worth $8 billion by 2025 by raising investment in local supply chains. Hirdaramani said only around half of Sri Lankan garment exports qualified for the generalized scheme of preferences plus (GSP+) tax concessions due to the rules of origin criteria, which concerns whether the clothing is sufficiently originating from the country applying for concessions.

THAILAND Thai textile exports surge, expected to grow by 15% As Cambodia lacks a textile industry to support its garment sector, neighboring Thailand’s export of textiles has soared and is expected to grow by 15 percent.

30,000 to 50,000 workers and are dependent on overtime work.

Thai textile exports were also boosted by demand from other apparel-producing countries like Vietnam, Indonesia, India, Europe, and the United States, and the trend for environment-friendly products.

This shortage could lead to a reverse surge of Cambodian migrant workers back to Thailand in search of employment now that the economy and industry are beginning to open up and resume operations to cater to worldwide demand, according to a report in a Cambodian newspaper.

Though Thailand’s garment and textile factories have returned to 100 percent capacity, a labor shortage has arisen as foreign workers returned to their home countries during the COVID-19 crisis. The factories are currently short of

Thai Garment Manufacturers Association president Yuttana Silpsarnvitch said major brands are ordering products made from recycled fibers, organic cotton, and other ecofriendly materials.

TURKEY Turkey's textile industry enters New Year with higher energy prices The Turkish textile and apparel industry will have to pay higher prices for electricity and natural gas in the New Year. This too at a time when Western countries, especially those in Europe, are actively considering sourcing more of their textile and apparel from Turkey under their near-shoring strategy, and the country’s inflation is at a 19-year high. Citing the increase in global energy prices, the Energy Market Regulatory Authority of Turkey has raised power consumption charges by over 100 percent for high-demand commercial users. Separately, BOTAS Petroleum Pipeline Corporation (BOTAS), the state-owned crude oil and natural gas pipelines and trading company in Turkey, has raised natural gas prices by 50 percent in January. However, for electricitygenerating industrial use, the price increase is 15 percent. Meanwhile, the annual consumer inflation rate in Turkey has shot up to a 19-year high of 36.08 percent in December, a sharp rise compared to 21.31 percent in November. According to economists, the high rate of inflation is due to the decrease in the value of the lira, mainly owing to the policy of

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - February 2022

Around the World President Recep Tayyip Erdogan to keep interest rates low. Addressing an event in Istanbul, Erdogan urged citizens to keep all their savings in the lira. He also advised people to deposit their gold savings with the country’s banks.

UNITED STATES U.S. Cotton Production Forecast for 2021 Up 21% USDA’s National Agricultural Statistics Service (NASS) released their January crop reports today. Becky Sommer with NASS in Washington D.C. says the 2021 U.S. cotton production estimate is up 21% from 2020’s crop. All cotton production is forecast at 17.6 million 480-pound bales, up 21% from 2020. Based on conditions as of January 1, yields are expected to average 849 pounds per harvested acre, up two pounds from the previous year. All cotton area planted is forecast at 11.2 million acres, down 7% from 2020. All cotton area harvested is forecast at 9.97 million acres, up 20% from last season. Cotton production in Georgia is forecast at 2.25 million bales, up 3% from last year. In Alabama, production is forecast at 705,000 bales, down 4% from 2020. Florida production is expected to total 125,000 bales, 21% above last year. In summary, all cotton production is forecast at 17.6 million 480-pound bales, up 21% from 2020.

VIETNAM Vietnam's leather, footwear, bag industry sets an export target of US$ 25 billon Vietnam's export of leather, footwear, and bags this year will likely increase by 10-15 percent year-on-year to about US$23-25 billion, according to projections by the Vietnam Leather, Footwear and Handbag Association (LEFASO), which recently said traditional markets for such products from Vietnam slightly recovered after the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic. Last year, the export turnover of these products saw a

modest yearly increase of 4.6 percent to reach US$20.78 billion, in which footwear exports hit US$17.77 billion— up by 6.1 percent—while export of suitcase and bag products topped nearly US$3.01 billion—down by 3.2 percent. The strongest increase of 19.6 percent was seen in North America, followed by Europe (10.8 percent) and Oceania (8.9 percent), according to Vietnamese media reports. The United States remained the largest importer of Vietnamese leather, footwear, and bag products with a turnover of over US$8.76 billion, up by 15.8 percent year on year. China came next with nearly US$1.72 billion, down by 22.3 percent and Japan ranked third with over US$1 billion, down by 10.1 percent. The association's report on the industry performance in 2021 showed that the fourth wave of COVID-19 and prolonged social distancing period had caused difficulties for 80 percent of leather and footwear businesses, especially those in the south which accounted for 70 percent value and volume of the whole industry. Many enterprises in southern localities such as

HCM City, Ðong Nai, Bình Duong, Long An, and Tien Giang had to stop operation due to their failure to implement ‘threeon-side’ and ‘one route, two destinations’ models. For a few businesses that were eligible to operate, reduced production capacity due to employees working from a distance, costs made by disruption of the supply chain of raw materials, and costs of COVID prevention such as testing and vaccinations and ‘3 on-site’ accommodations for workers brought them a headache. Leather and footwear enterprises suffered heavy losses as they had to stop or reduce production, having their export orders canceled by customers, but they still had to pay for costs of maintaining factories and wages to employees, LEFASO said. By 2025, the nation's leather, footwear, and handbag industry aim to satisfy most of the country's demand and maintain its position as a key export industry of the country. By 2030, it aims to reach sustainable development through modern technologies and management systems that adhere to global standards. 

Corporate News

Italian Textile Machinery:

Orders grow again in 2021 fourth quarter (+43%). The index of orders intake for Italian textile machinery for the fourth quarter of 2021, processed by ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers, showed a 43% upturn compared to the same period in 2020. In absolute terms, the index stood at 127.9 points (base 100 in 2015). This growth was spurred on by both the Italian and foreign markets. More specifically, domestic orders were up 83% compared to the period OctoberDecember 2020, for an absolute value of 234.6. Orders collected abroad grew by 36%, for an absolute index value equal to 116.4. On an annual basis, the index of orders intake increased by 95%, for an absolute value of 128 points. The increase in orders abroad was 79%, while orders collected for domestic market were up 204% compared to what was observed in 2020. Alessandro Zucchi, president of ACIMIT, commented the results of the survey: “We’re experiencing a recovery in

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - February 2022

the sector that we didn’t quite expect. Production has returned to pre-Covid levels, while foreign demand has been robust in most markets, and in Italy it has benefited from the Government Transition 4.0 incentives.” However, the many orders to be filled are now a cause for concern, given the scarce availability of components and raw materials due to the interruption of supply chains. Added to this is the sharp rise in the cost of energy. Thus, 2022 is expected to be a year in which optimism and foreboding still prevail for the Italian textile machinery sector, pending ITMA 2023, the world’s most important textile machinery exhibition, scheduled to be held in Milan in June 2023. “The large number of registered Italian manufacturers is an important signal,” concludes ACIMIT’s President, adding that, “ITMA Milan will mark a

definitive relaunching of the textile machinery sector, and will confirm Italy’s leadership in the field of textile technologies. This will be a must opportunity for all Italian businesses.”

Corporate News

BB Engineering GmbH delivers melt filter for PET recycling system to Indorama Polyester Industries 2021 saw BB Engineering GmbH (Germany) deliver a melt filter for recycling PET flakes to polyester manufacturer Indorama Polyester Industries (Thailand). Indorama will be using the type NSF38 filter in its recently assembled recycling system in order to produce rPET granulate from flake PET bottle waste. The NSF38 filter enables continual filtering – in other words, the system switches from one filter to the other during the process without the need for conversion shut-downs. The filter allows the processing of consumer waste – for example, in the form of shredded PET bottles – into new, high-quality rPET granulate. This granulate is subsequently processed into manmade fibers in spinning systems. The NSF38 is a switchable filter with a filter surface area of approx. 16 m2 on each side, with throughputs of between 1,000 and 1,900 kg/h. The filter inserts each contain 19 pleated filter candles (60 x 1,000mm Ø). The filter medium comprises a sintered metal fiber nonwoven with a filtration fineness of 25 µm. This ensures that the melt remains free of contaminants and gel particles, which in turn enables the production of highquality end products.

Graphical animation of NSF38

About BB Engineering GmbH

NSF38

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - February 2022

BB Engineering GmbH is a German machine building company founded in 1997 as a joint venture between Oerlikon Barmag, a subsidiary of Oerlikon Textile GmbH & Co. KG, and Brückner Group GmbH. Today, the company employs more than 160 members of staff at its location in Remscheid, Germany, focusing their business on the development, engineering, design and manufacturing of extrusion and filtration technologies as well as complete spinning lines (VarioFil) and recycling technologies (VacuFil, Visco+) for the plastics and textiles industry. The services offered range from the design and planning phases all the way through to the implementation of projects.

Archroma and Jeanologia launch an ecoadvanced alternative to the denim cleaning process, one of the most water intensive and pollutant processes of denim fabric finishing.

Archroma and Jeanologia launch eco-conscious denim cleaning Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, and Jeanologia, a world leader in sustainable and efficient technology development, joined forces to launch an eco-advanced alternative to the denim fabric washing process, including in some cases the mercerization, one of the most water-intensive and pollutant processes of denim fabric finishing. The production of denim requires a succession of several steps aimed at imparting the qualities we love in our favorite pair of jeans. It all starts with the spinning step where the cotton is turned into yarn. The second step is a pretreatment that will prepare the yarn for the dyeing step. The dyed yarn then goes through the sizing process, which is a treatment preparing it for weaving. At this stage, we have obtained a denim fabric that will go

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - February 2022

through a few more steps. First, the fabric may undergo a washing treatment or, in some cases, mercerizing treatment which consists of treating it with caustic soda in order to obtain a more lustrous, flat and less reddish blue and black denim. In both traditional ways to clean the fabric, washing or mercerizing, multiple highly water intensive washings are required in order to restore optimal fabric pH and remove unfixed dyestuff and any undesired deposits or impurities from the fabric. One of such impurities released in the washing process is aniline, a substance that is classified as a category 2 carcinogen and considered toxic to aquatic life. That is why Archroma and Jeanologia decided to team up and develop an alternative to the traditional fabric cleaning process and its subsequent water-intensive and water-polluting washings.

The breakthrough alternative to the fabric cleaning concept presented by Jeanologia and Archroma combines the use of the aniline-free* PURE INDIGO ICON dyeing system of Archroma, and the water-free** and chemical-free “G2 Dynamic“ finishing technology of Jeanologia. The Archroma PURE INDIGO ICON is based on an innovation launched by the company in May 2018: its aniline-free* Denisol® Pure Indigo. Aniline is a key ingredient to make the indigo molecule. Unfortunately, during this process some aniline impurities are carried through into the indigo dyestuff. When the indigo is dyed on the fabric, a lot of the aniline impurity is locked into the pigment in the fabric. The remainder of the aniline impurity, approximately 300 metric tons annually, is discharged during dyeing. This can be an issue as aniline is toxic to aquatic life. In addition, exposure levels

Deys and Chemical to factory workers can be high. The new Denisol® Pure Indigo 30 liq was therefore developed as an aniline-free(1) indigo solution for designers, manufacturers and brand owners who long for authentic indigo inspiration. The Jeanologia G2 Dynamic was introduced in 2008. The market-first ozone treatment for continuous fabric dramatically reduces the amount of water and chemicals used, while at the same time saving costs at the mill and eventually at the garment finishing facilities. This technology makes fabric more stable and consistent and prepares the fabric better for the use of other technologies like laser. As presented a few months ago in partnership with Archroma, this machinery can be used along with Pad-Ox technology to help cleaning fabric thus improving fastness results, at room temperature with significant savings in energy and CO2. The Archroma/Jeanologia solution allows to create aniline-free* denim, and improve the final aspect of the fabric through a fully chemical-free and almost water-free** cleaning alternative treatment. The Archroma/Jeanologia solution can also be used with additional Archroma coloration systems such as INDIGO REFLECTION or PURE UNDERTONES. Umberto Devita, Business Development Manager at Archroma’s Competence Center for Denim & Casual Wear, who was the project leader for this new development, comments: “At Archroma, we strive to develop solutions in line with our principles of “The

Archroma Way to a Sustainable World: Safe, efficient, enhanced, it’s our nature”. It was therefore very inspiring to work with a partner who shares the same values of developing efficient new processes to bring all know-how to our customers to maximize value – for denim that looks as good as the good it creates.” For Jean-Pierre Inchauspe, Business Director of G2 Dynamic at Jeanologia, “this association is another step to change traditional, more polluting and water consuming processes in the textile industry for new ones using technology, improving, and boosting subsequent production stages up to the finishing of the garment, making them more efficient and allowing companies to be more competitive, increase productivity and offer a product that is completely sustainable with high quality.”

About Archroma Archroma is a global, diversified provider of specialty chemicals serving the branded and performance textiles, packaging and paper, and coatings, adhesives and sealants markets. Headquartered in Pratteln, Switzerland, Archroma operates in over 100 countries, with 2,800 employees located in 31 countries and 25 production sites. Archroma is passionate about delivering leading and innovative solutions, enhancing people’s lives and respecting the planet. The company is committed to the principles of "The Archroma Way to a Sustainable World: Safe, Efficient, Enhanced. It's our nature!"; an approach reflected in its innovations, world-class quality standards, high service levels and costefficiency.

Dyes and Chemicals

Huntsman textile effects pushes boundaries with sustainability and innovation High-Performance Solutions and Protection Effects at Colombiatex 2022 Huntsman Textile Effects, a global leader in innovative and sustainable textile dyes and protection effects, brought a complete suite of solutions for performance apparel, technical textiles and casual wear to Colombiatex de las Américas 2022. “Sustainability is becoming a priority for regulators in South America and around the world, and consumers are increasingly keen to make a difference by choosing green brands,” said Ben Powell, Commercial Director Americas, Huntsman Textile Effects. “Huntsman is redefining what’s possible to help textile and apparel companies make the shift to more environmentally sustainable operations while enhancing their competitiveness at the same time. Our innovations make it possible to benefit from efficiency gains and resource savings in the factory as you deliver products that stand out in the market.”

Sustainability breakthroughs Huntsman Textile Effects showcased the latest addition to the third generation of AVITERA® SE polyreactive dye range at Colombiatex this year. AVITERA® ROSE SE delivers brilliant bluish-red shades while reducing the water and energy required for production by up to 50% and increasing mill output by up to 25% or more. It also significantly outperforms the best available dyeing technologies for cellulosic fibers and blends in terms of value by reducing recipe costs, minimizing processing costs and eliminating reprocessing. ERIOPON® E3-SAVE is another nextgeneration water-saving innovation. An all-in-one textile auxiliary for polyester processing, it allows pre-scouring, dyeing and reduction clearing to be combined in a single bath and eliminates the need for anti-foaming products. This shortens

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processing time and saves water and energy.

rPET processing innovations

Next-generation odor control In partnership with Sciessent, Huntsman Textile Effects brought

As leading brands begin to work towards a circular economy for textiles, mills are being asked to overcome challenges associated with transforming recycled polyester (rPET) into high-quality new textiles. At Colombiatex, Huntsman Textile Effects presented an end-to-end solution for achieving full whites and consistent shades on rPET with right-firsttime quality. This eco-friendly rPET processing solution includes pretreatment chemicals, fluorescent whitening agents, state-of-the-art washfast dyes, and finishing solutions for high-performance protection and comfort.

revolutionary antimicrobial and odor-

Washfast disperse dyes for polyester and man-made fibers

everyday products and add value to your

TERASIL® BLUE W is the latest addition to Huntsman’s TERASIL W/WW range of washfast disperse dyes for polyester and man-made fibers and their blends. Crucially, it is not sensitive to reduction, leading to higher reproducibility, higher right first-time results and operational excellence. It also reduces overall water and energy consumption, as well as water effluent. TERASIL® BLUE W offers high build-up for deep blues that stay vibrant.

control solutions to Colombiatex to enable mills to produce garments that smell fresh for longer and need less frequent washing. Featured at Colombiatex was Sciessent’s new anti-odor technology NOBO™. Launched it January 2022, it is specifically designed to reduce odors in natural and synthetic fabrics; it can be incorporated into virtually any fabric. From base layer and activewear tops to socks and underwear to jeans and chinos. It offers a cost-effective way to upgrade customers. The partners also presented Sciessent’s Agion Active X2®, a nextgeneration odor-control solution that combines advanced antimicrobial and odor-absorbing technologies to both capture and fight odor-causing bacteria, and Lava X2®, a standalone odor adsorption product and key component of Agion Active X2® that attracts, absorbs and degrades odors for long-lasting odor protection.

Fairs and Exhibitions

President Adil Nalbant:

“ITM 2022, Will be the largest event where global brands and professionals will meet with great interest” Adil Nalbant, President TEMSAD

Mr Adil Nalbant the president of TEMSAD, Turkish Textile gives his views about ITM exhibition and the Turkish textile machinery sector “I believe that ITM Exhibition will be a very important event for Turkish textile machinery industry especially in this period when our Turkish textile industry gains momentum and makes investments, as well as in terms of supplying the necessary technologies for new investments in neighboring countries and directing the investments.” The end of frequent curfews and strict measures that occurred in 2020 by the middle of 2021 and the speed in the vaccination processes have reactivated the global trade. During these difficult times domestic and international activities increased and Turkish textile machinery sector companies increased

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their activities to meet the domestic demand as well as demand in international export markets. Among these increasing physical activities, ITM Exhibition, which could not be organized in 2020 and 2021 due to Covid-19, will be organised from June 14 to 17, 2022. ITM Exhibition, which is held every two years in partnership with Tüyap, Teknik Fairs, and TEMSAD, has now become a global brand of Turkish textile industry and has become the meeting point of domestic and foreign textile machinery technologies with end-users in the country and the region. Thousands of visitors from Europe, Central Asia, and Arab countries,

especially from the Turkic Republics, will visit the ITM 2022 Exhibition to be informed about the latest trends in textile machinery. 1200 exhibitors from 64 countries and 60,000 visitors from 94 countries are expected to set new records. Trade committees and textile investors from many countries where textile production is active such as Pakistan, Bangladesh, Uzbekistan, India, and Egypt shall visit ITM 2022 Exhibition. Thanks to the machinery sales and business partnerships of manufacturers from all over the world, exhibition will create a great vitality in the Turkish and world economy. 

Fairs and Exhibitions

CNR KONFEK redefines innovation in the garment industry One of the essential industries for global economies, the garment machinery industry, meets global buyers via CNR KONFEK – International Garment Machinery Exhibition. The exhibition will be organized by CNR Holding at Istanbul Expo Center between September 21-24, 2022. A specially-tailored platform full of innovations for 27 years, CNR KONFEK, will become the largest and most extensive trade platform dedicated to the industry. Domestic and international buyers, placing great emphasis on R&D and innovation, will come together with international buyer groups at CNR KONFEK, welcoming industry professionals who desire to implement the latest technologies and steer their investments. Top-notch brands from countries, including Germany, Italy, Switzerland, Japan, Belgium, France, China, Taiwan, the USA, South Korea, Austria, Spain, Czech Republic, India, the UK, the Netherlands, Sweden, Denmark, and Poland, will present their technologies on the exhibition area covering 60 thousand square meters. CNR KONFEK will ensure future business by meetings and cultivating long-lasting business partnerships. 

Fairs and Exhibitions

Intex South Asia 2022 - International Textile Sourcing Show Intex South Asia Bangladesh, 16 to 18 June, 2022 Intex South Asia is one of the biggest and most established international textile sourcing show of South Asia having completed 8 successful editions in Sri Lanka, Bangladesh and India and connected over 1,200 global textile suppliers with 25,000+ leading buyers from 30 countries and regions. It aims to fulfill the growing demand for innovative and trendy fabrics and accessories for one of the biggest apparel manufacturing region in the world. Intex South Asia is endorsed by major Government bodies, Chambers of Commerce and Industry Associations in South Asia and is the most sought after annual industry event for the textile and apparel industry. Show Highlights – Country Pavilions, Interactive Business Forum Series, Panel Discussion, Exhibitor Profile – Fibres, Yarns,

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - February 2022

Apparel Fabrics, Denim Fabrics, Clothing Accessories, Dyes & Chemicals, Software & ERP solutions, Testing Equipment & Compliance Solutions, Design Studios, Trends & Fashion Forecasters, Allied Services Buyer Profile – Apparel Manufacturers & Exporters, Apparel Brands & Fashion Labels, International Sourcing Offices, Buying Houses & Agents, Apparel Retailers & E-tailers, Importers, Distributors & Wholesalers, Intimate & Undergarments Brands, Textile Manufacturers & Exporters, Govt. & Trade Body Representatives, Sales & Marketing Consultants, Textile Trading Houses

Intex South Asia Sri Lanka 7 to 29 July, 2022 Intex South Asia is undoubtedly the biggest and most established international textile sourcing show of South Asia having completed 8 successful

editions in Sri Lanka, Bangladesh and India and connected over 1,200 global textile suppliers with 25,000+ leading buyers from 30 countries and regions. It aims to fulfill the growing demand for innovative and trendy fabrics and accessories for one of the biggest apparel manufacturing region in the world. Intex South Asia is endorsed by major Government bodies, Chambers of Commerce and Industry Associations in South Asia and is the most sought after annual industry event for the textile and apparel industry. Show Highlights – Country Pavilions, Interactive Business Forum Series, Panel Discussion, Trends Zone, Fashion Fiesta, Networking Reception, Platinum Lounge, Media Lounge Exhibitor Profile – Fibres, Yarns, Apparel Fabrics, Denim Fabrics, Clothing Accessories, Dyes & Chemicals, Software & ERP solutions, Testing Equipment & Compliance Solutions, Design Studios,

Fairs and Exhibitions

Trends & Fashion Forecasters, Allied Services Buyer Profile – Apparel Manufacturers & Exporters, Apparel Brands & Fashion Labels, International Sourcing Offices, Buying Houses & Agents, Apparel Retailers & E-tailers, Importers, Distributors & Wholesalers, Intimate & Undergarments Brands, Textile Manufacturers & Exporters, Govt. & Trade Body Representatives, Sales & Marketing Consultants, Textile Trading Houses

Intex South Asia India 08 to 10 December, 2022

Associations in South Asia and is the most sought after annual industry event for the textile and apparel industry. Show Highlights – Grand Opening Ceremony, International Pavilions, Domestic Pavilions, Denimex Zone, Fashion Catwalk, Knowledge Forums, Buyer Delegations, Media Corner, VIP Platinum Lounge, Intex Investment Forum, Inter State Pavilions, Interactive Business Forum Exhibitor Profile – Fibres, Yarns, Apparel Fabrics, Denim Fabrics, Clothing Accessories, Dyes & Chemicals, Software & ERP solutions, Testing Equipment &

Compliance Solutions, Design Studios, Trends & Fashion Forecasters, Allied Services Buyer Profile – Apparel Manufacturers & Exporters, Apparel Brands & Fashion Labels, International Sourcing Offices, Buying Houses & Agents, Apparel Retailers & E-tailers, Importers, Distributors & Wholesalers, Intimate & Undergarments Brands, Textile Manufacturers & Exporters, Govt. & Trade Body Representatives, Sales & Marketing Consultants, Textile Trading Houses. 

Intex South Asia is undoubtedly the biggest and most established international textile sourcing show of South Asia having completed 8 successful editions in Sri Lanka, Bangladesh and India and connected over 1,200 global textile suppliers with 25,000+ leading buyers from 30 countries and regions. It aims to fulfill the growing demand for innovative and trendy fabrics and accessories for one of the biggest apparel manufacturing region in the world. Intex South Asia is endorsed by major Government bodies, Chambers of Commerce and Industry

Fairs and Exhibitions

Texworld Evolution Paris: the international trade fair for the fashion industry returns D-6 before the return of Texworld Evolution Paris to the Paris - Le Bourget Exhibition Center. During three days, several hundred fabrics and clothing exhibitors will represent the major international sourcing countries. After a two-year absence in its usual form, the crossroads for the fashion industry is back in Paris. From 7 to 9 February, the Paris - Le Bourget Exhibition Center will host the Texworld Evolution Paris trade fairs: Apparel Sourcing Paris for the sourcing of finished garments, Avantex Paris for innovative and sustainable textiles and products, Leatherworld Paris dedicated to the leather and related materials market, and finally Texworld Paris for the sourcing of fabrics. They will gather in one place the main global offer for fashion brands, from ready-to-wear to luxury.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - February 2022

Partners for fashion sourcing By offering buyers the opportunity to reconnect with the market, Texworld Evolution Paris reinforces its vocation as a partner for fashion sourcing: the fair will bring together over 200 exhibitors from 16 countries for 3 days. Turkey will be strongly present, China, but also Pakistan, Bangladesh, Uzbekistan, Korea and Taiwan will be widely represented, putting Asia back at the heart of European brands' textile sourcing. Leatherworld will host manufacturers from China, Thailand, Pakistan and Bangladesh. Apparel Sourcing, meanwhile, will bring together a hundred or so exhibitors from a dozen countries. Alongside the Chinese exhibitors who will be able to make the trip, the “Source In China” area, at the entrance to the show, will concentrate some twenty Chinese manufacturers. Agents and experts from

Foursource, the digital partner of Messe Frankfurt France, will assist visitors, answer technical questions and ensure the link between visitors and those manufacturers who could not make the trip. In addition to the presence of Pakistani, Bangladeshi and Vietnamese exhibitors, Apparel Sourcing will be welcoming 18 companies in the Uzbek pavilion. This first participation confirms the ambitions of the Central Asian country as a player in international sourcing. Abana, a sourcing platform based in Mauritius which offers sourcing solutions in the African zone, should also not be missed.

(Re)opening fashion to the world With exhibitors from around ten countries, Texworld also gives textile buyers a much-needed insight into the international offer. The Turkish and Korean national pavilions will bring

Fairs and Exhibitions together more than 50 companies. The Turkish participation has increased and will feature several national flagships, such as weavers Er-Ez Tekstil, Herboy and Karagözlüler Tekstil, grouped together in the Elite sector, alongside the Dutch quality linen weaver Northern Linen, which has a fine GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) certified offer. Taiwanese embroiderers New Heaven and Esperanza will also be exhibiting high quality fabrics, the latter available in small quantities (between 50 and 100m). Avantex will also host a selection of startups such as Tekyn (textile production on demand), Fingertip (intelligent ecommerce platform) and Komet Story (ephemeral and connected shopping experience).

A mobile App and specific itineraries This relaunch exhibition will be organised in accordance with current health regulations. From now on, badges will be digitized to simplify the visitor's route, reduce the carbon footprint and limit physical interactions. A new mobile application will also be available this year. It will host all the content of the fairs (practical information, trends, etc.) and will allow exhibitors to be found by country and by category in order to optimise the visitor's itinerary and find their way around thanks to the interactive map. Several thematic itineraries have been arranged to make it easier for customers to identify exhibitors: 1. the Small Quantity itinerary lists exhibitors who offer fabrics or finished products in small series; 2. the Handmade itinerary, to identify companies offering traditional knowhow; and finally 3. the Sustainable itinerary for companies whose products are certified eco-responsible.

Vision, trends and perspectives True to its opening mission, the Texworld Evolution Paris platform is doing its utmost to offer visitors perspectives on market developments and on the orientation of demand. The art directors of the show, Louis Gérin and Grégory Lamaud, have imagined, detected and staged the creative directions that will shape the fashion of Spring-Summer 2023. Grouped together in the Trend Book available on the mobile application, these major themes will be concretely illustrated during conferences

and in the trend forums.

dead stock, relocation, etc. The Agora

Conferences, round tables, workshops and other events will also punctuate these three days of exchanges. Sustainable fashion is at the heart of the discussions, with workshops led by the CETI on solutions for reusing unsold and

area will also host discussions on the contribution of new technologies (AI, Blockchain) to a more virtuous fashion industry, as well as the use of food waste as a resource for tomorrow's fashion.

Personalia

Koshiro Kudo to become new President of Asahi Kasei Asahi Kasei announced at the end of January 2022 a change in the company's management. As of April 2022, Koshiro Kudo will assume the role of President & Representative Director. The current President Hideki Kobori will become Chairman of Asahi Kasei. Koshiro Kudo takes over the position in a robust business setting as the recently presented quarterly results show. Asahi Kasei disclosed its financial results for the quarter ended December 31, 2021, on February 9, 2022. In terms of EPS, 35.59 JPY (0.27 EUR) per share was reported. Last year, Asahi Kasei had earned JPY 23.93 (0.18 EUR) per share. Compared to the same period of the

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - February 2022

previous year, Asahi Kasei achieved an increase in sales of 17.6 percent in the past quarter. Sales amounted to JPY 643.70 billion (4.86 billion EUR). In the same quarter of the previous year, JPY 547.30 billion (4.17 billion EUR) were on the accounts. The full-year forecast announced in November 2021 remains unchanged with expected 2,453.0 billion JPY (18.72 billion EUR).

Asahi Kasei the following month. After holding various positions, Kudo became head of the ROICA™ business unit, producing premium stretch fibers from elastic polyurethane filament, in May 2008. He pursued his career in the field of technical textiles and filaments in the following years, becoming President of the Fibers & Textiles Strategic Business Unit (SBU) based in Osaka in 2017.

Koshiro Kudo was born on June 5, 1959, on the island of Kyushu in Nobeoka, Miyazaki Prefecture, in southwestern Japan. He graduated from the renowned Keio University in Tokyo in March 1982 and started working for

Two years later, new responsibilities were added as President of the addition to fibers and textiles, he was in charge of the business with engineering plastics, synthetic rubber, elastomers as well as household and packaging materials. Kudo

Personalia

was also involved in the establishment of a new department for mobility materials, launched in April 2020 to focus on products for the automotive sector. The new President of Asahi Kasei will continue the successful strategic work of his predecessor Hideki Kobori, who has significantly shaped the Group since 2016. The steady management in the Corona pandemic as well as the focus on sustainability, carbon neutrality and biobased productions processes are milestones of his work as President. Similarly, back in 2016, the Asahi Kasei Group moved to an operational holding structure and divided its business areas into Material, Homes and Health Care, resulting in efficient collaboration within the company. During his presidency, Kobori further expanded Asahi Kasei's global presence. One key achievement was the successful establishment and development of Asahi Kasei Europe's business activities since April 2016. Furthermore, he was responsible for focused business

development activities including capacity expansions for battery separators, filaments for airbags, synthetic rubber and virus filters. This also included the strategic positioning focused on the automotive and medical sectors with the important acquisitions such as Sage Automotive Interiors in the USA, the Swedish sensor company Senseair as well as Veloxis Pharmaceuticals, Inc., focused on the commercialization of mmunosuppression medications in the United States.

Continuous focus on automotive, health care and sustainability With 40 years of corporate experience as a solid foundation, the new President will lead the company into a new century of its history, as Asahi Kasei celebrates its 100th anniversary in May 2022. The coronavirus showed how important people’s lives and health are. Asahi Kasei will deepen its operations in the medical business with solutions that can tie together offerings in the chain of

prevention, diagnosis, treatment, and aftercare making its Health Care operations into a third pillar of business alongside Material and Homes. Furthermore, Asahi Kasei is aiming to achieve carbon neutrality by 2050, looking to reduce its absolute greenhouse gas emissions by at least 30 percent until 2030. Therefore, Koshiro Kudo will also be continuing the operations of the Sustainability Strategy Planning Department, with efforts now being made around activities that contribute to creating a sustainable society under a unified company-wide policy. The Green Solution Project, a new organizational unit directly reporting to the company President will also be one of his main responsibilities.

About Asahi Kasei Corporation Asahi Kasei Corporation is a globally active diversified technology company with operations in the Material, Homes, and Health Care business sectors. The Material sector encompasses fibers & textiles, petrochemicals, performance polymers, performance materials, consumables, battery separa-tors, and electronic devices. The Homes sector provides housing and construction materials to the Japanese market. The Health Care sector includes pharmaceuticals, medical devices, and acute critical care devices and systems. With more than 44,000 employees around the world, the Asahi Kasei Group serves customers in more than 100 countries and achieved sales of 17.3 billion euros (2,106 billion yen) in the fiscal year 2020 (April 1, 2020 – March 31, 2021). 

Feature

Fashionable without hurting the environment Fashion industry is heavily supported by plastics from the synthetic materials used to produce clothing, bags and other fashion accessories, creating stylish and even customized features to catch the eyes of consumers. The fast-paced fashion industry is always abuzz with new products for each season. From clothes, jewellery, footwear, bags and other accessories, the fashion world is always on the lookout for new materials that fuel the creative spirit of designers and manufacturers, and capture the fancy of buyers.

gases produced as against conventional synthetic materials.

ECONYL fiber, which is derived from recycled fishing nets.

Stella McCartney’s Koba Fur Free Fur is made of 100% DuPont™ Sorona® plant-based fibers.

Sports bras and leggings made from recycled plastics, water bottles and fishing nets.

Another brand, Girlfriend Collective, produces sports bras and leggings from recycled plastics, water bottles and fishing nets. The company’s recycling center in Taiwan is where bottles are sorted, cleaned and recycled. The LITE leggings produced by the company are made from

Inditex commits to produce all Zara clothing from 100% sustainable materials by 2025.

But the fashion industry is reaching a turning point as leading fashion brands are becoming more concerned on environmental issues that their buyers have focused on. As one of the first fashion designers to launch environmentally-friendly and green products, Stella McCartney uses textiles such as recycled polyester, sustainable viscose hemp and other organic materials for her fashion collection, of which Koba Fur Free Fur is popular. The sustainable fur is made of 100% DuPont™ Sorona® plant-based fibers, an alternative to animal furs. The material can be recycled and reused without waste, and with less greenhouse

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - February 2022

Inditex, the company that owns high street fashion brand Zara, has committed to produce all its clothing from 100% sustainable materials. By 2025, Inditex will only use cotton, linen and polyester that is organic, more sustainable or recycled.

H&M has teamed up with Danone AQUA for bottle2fashion project

Another leading fashion brand, H&M has teamed up with Danone AQUA for the bottle2fashion project, where plastic bottle waste from across the islands of Indonesia is transformed into recycled polyester. In 2021, bottle2fashion collected and recycled over 7.5 million PET bottles, more than double the volume from 2020 of 3.5 million. The recycled polyester is used in the production of the popular H&M Kids collection. Source: www.chinaplasonline.com 

Fibre and Yarns

Knitting Yarns Collection Spring Summer 23 by Marchi & Fildi and Filidea at Pitti Filati Pitti Filati: young talents of ITS TAM interpret the “waistcoat”, sustainable, gender fluid and seasonless iconic garment, using the yarns of Marchi & Fildi and Filidea collections During the 90th edition of Pitti Filati at the Marchi & Fildi and Filidea booths, original garments will be on show which have been developed by 2nd-year students of the course for Higher Technician for Design and Development of Knitwear Products at the ITS TAM (Higher Institute for Textiles, Clothing and Fashion) in Biella. The project’s primary garment is the waistcoat, offering visitors to the booths garments capable of interpreting the yarns in a contemporary way and embodying the key values of the brands Marchi & Fildi, ECOTEC® and Filidea. Rediscovered by fashion in recent collections, the waistcoat is a unisex, seasonless garment, and constitutes an “easy”, basic garment for all types of interpretation; a creative representation of the values of modern fashion research:

Sustainable - Gender exchange - Seasonless With the supervision of Fausto Caletti, the stylist that has been developing the yarns collection of Marchi & Fildi and Filidea, and the ITS TAM professors, students have created the waistcoats in knitwear using yarns from the Spring/Summer 2023 collections in the colours included in the overview cards. During their creative work, the students measured themselves not only in terms of the ideation of the finished garments, but also the total number of the steps for their execution within the framework of the project. Every waistcoat on show will be numbered and identified with the name of the student who created it. Coming into the booth, it will be possible to admire all of them.

Filidea fashion yarns The Filidea Spring/Summer 2023 collection consolidates its position in the medium-high sector for knitwear yarns. The essential elements for the brand identity are confirmed as being at the centre of its value offer: the choice of natural fibres and biodegradable blends, the attention to the performance of the yarns together with the sensibility of the fashion world and the environmental sustainability of the whole supply chain. All the yarns of the collection are dyed in the internal dyeing mill of the Marchi & Fildi Group, which has a low environmental

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - February 2022

impact. The Study Life Cycle Assessment carried out in 2020 demonstrates an average of -48% water used for each kg of yarn dyed, -43% in the steam consumption and -57% of energy use, in comparison to a traditional plant. The offer revolves around three families of cotton, linen and silk blends, confirming the references of the latest summer season, the presence of GOTS-certified cottons and the innovative blends such as the blend of silk and Bemberg™ Cupro, the GRS-certified regenerated cellulose. Fine and extra-fine yarns prevail, as they are ideal for the knitwear that takes its style from sophistication and formal simplicity. The exception is Zoran, a cotton tape which is the perfect solution for creative structures and fancies. The colour card maintains its elegant, classy orientation towards the seasonal colours of nature, with sandy, earthy tones, browns and warm flamed tones fading into beige and neutral hues. Stock availability for samples has been increased. Jacques, a compact cotton with a soft, caressing hand in two counts, fine and extra-fine, and characterised by an opaque look to transmit a stylishly natural atmosphere is to be found amongst the new items with which the Filidea offer has been enhanced. Albert proposes a refined summer blend of cotton and linen with a natural, light hand and uneven textures with the slight irregularities typical of linen. Also new is the combination of silk and cotton in Philippe, in a skilful balance of exquisiteness, lustre and natural feeling. The new yarns in the collection are distinguished by the choice of the most topical colours: trendy, saturated and intense tones which even go as far as fluo.

Marchi & Fildi fashion yarns The orientation towards yarns which are sustainable, certified and using circular economy processes takes on ever more importance in the collection. ECOTEC® technology, which uses pre- and post-consumer waste products to create yarns of superior quality,characterises a number of proposals in the collection, for the most part with GRS certification. Alongside the bestsellers in cotton-based blends (Nilo, Victoria, Pegasus, Polaris) or Lenzing™ Ecovero™ viscose (Palatio), some novelties stand out for using linen as the main ingredient. Acapulco (viscose, linen and acrylic fibres) and Lima (ECOTEC® cotton, linen and acrylic fibres) are both characterised by a naturally faded look and the elegant worn effect of the surface which enhances the rusticity of the linen.

Fibre and Yarns The combination of the different fibres makes it possible to create a light streaky effect for a delicately uneven colour. The hand is natural and pleasant and the colour palette continues with the refined sun-faded effects and light plant colours: yellowed whites which turn into soft beiges, straw and sage green, delicate tones inspired by the inside of shells.

Marchi & Fildi Marchi & Fildi S.p.a was established in 2007 through the fusion of the mills Filatura Marchi and Fildi, owned by the Marchi and Dissegna families. Filidea is the youngest company within the Group, and was set up in 2008. The Marchi & Fildi Group proposal for the fashion world consists of linear or circular knitting, weaving and hosiery. The distinguishing element in the collections is the focus on sustainability, which starts with the selection of the raw materials and finishes with the ECOTEC® brand owned by Marchi & Fildi. The Filidea brand presents an assortment of natural, sustainable and certified yarns designed for the highquality market sector. Filidea is also specialised in the production and development of technical yarns intended for protective and work clothing, for the automotive industry and various industrial uses.

The modern dyeing department and the pilot research and development facility allow the Group to create new yarns for the collections, alongside the collaboration with universities and research centres and with various partners for the development of specialised projects. Today, with the entry of the third generation of entrepreneurs, Marchi & Fildi S.p.a is a group of mills which is known internationally and which has a constant rate of growth. ECOTEC® is the patented production process developed by Marchi & Fildi to create new yarns by upcycling the pre- and post-consumer cut-offs. The ECOTEC® range ensures a reduced environmental footprint: up to 46.9% savings in terms of energy consumption, up to 46.6% reduction in terms of CO2 and up to 61.6% reduction in terms of water consumption along the whole supply chain. 

Pitti Immagine Filati 90 Premium Knitting Yarn Exhibition 2 - 4 February 2022 During the three days of the fair, exhibitors, buyers, professionals, and media operators of great quality confirmed with their presence and a very concrete approach that Pitti Filati is an essential appointment at an international level, even more important at this moment in re-establishing the market mechanisms, giving impetus to the entire system and the calendar of the collections.

Italian professionals 1.150

(Canada), Ermanno Scervino (Italy),

Foreign professionals 600 (35% total) Foreign markets of origin of the buyers 40

Ermenegildo Zegna (Italy), Ganni

Top 15 foreign markets for the number of buyers in attendance:

(Italy), Giorgio Armani (Italy), Giu Giu

France, United Kingdom, United States, Germany, Switzerland, Holland, Spain, Turkey, Denmark, China, Bulgaria, Belgium, Sweden, Poland, Lithuania.

Hermes (France), Jacquemus (France),

The Exhibitors

Premium Buyers

58 manufacturers presented the yarn trends for the next Spring/Summer 2023.

The buyers of some of the most important international brands that took part in this edition of Pitti Filati include:

22 companies were present in the special areas.

Acne Studios (Sweden), Aeffe (Italy), Agnona (Italy), Akris (Switzerland), Alphatauri (Austria), Altea (Italy), American Vintage (France), Banana Republic (US), Basicnet (Italy), Blufin (Italy), Bottega Veneta (Italy), Brioni (Italy), Burberry (UK), Canada Goose (Canada), Céline (France), Christian Dior (France), Diesel (Italy), Dolce & Gabbana (Italy), Dover Street Market (UK), Dsquared2 (Italy), Ecologyst

All companies present at the Stazione Leopolda with their own exhibition space chose to be online on Pitti Connect.

The Buyers During the three days of Pitti Filati there were: Professionals in total 1.750

(Denmark), GCDS (Italy), Gerard Darel (France), Gianni Versace (Italy), Gilmar (US), Givenchy (France), Gucci (Italy), Jason Wu (US), Jil Sander (Italy), Kenzo (France), La Maison Simons (Canada), Marc'o Polo (Germany), Marina Rinaldi (Italy), Maxmara (Italy), Missoni (Italy), Moschino (Italy), Mr Porter (UK), Nanushka (Hungary), Neil Barrett (Italy), Norse Projects (Denmark), Our Legacy (Sweden), Prada (Italy), Roberto Collina (Italy), Ryan Roche (US), Salvatore Ferragamo (Italy), Slam Jam (Italy), Sportalm (Austria), Stella McCartney (Italy), Sunnei (Italy), The Row (US), Thom Browne (US), Todd Snyder (US), Tommy Hilfiger (The Netherlands), Tory Burch (US), Trussardi (Italy), Victoria Beckham (UK), Vivienne Westwood (UK), Woolrich (Italy), Yves Saint Laurent (France).

Fibre and Yarns

Sateri Completes Higg Facility Social and Labour Module Assessment for Responsible Manufacturing All of Sateri’s five viscose mills in China have undergone independent evaluation of their social and labour practices, having completed the Higg Facility Social and Labour Module (FSLM) audit and achieved a consistent high score of above 80%. A member of the RGE group of companies, Sateri is also one of the world’s first viscose producers to have completed the Higg Facility Environmental Module (FEM) assessment, with the similar verified high score of over 80% for all its viscose mills. Developed by the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, a global, multi-stakeholder non-profit alliance for the fashion industry, the Higg Index is a suite of tools that enables brands, retailers and facilities of all sizes to accurately measure and score a company or product’s sustainability performance. The FSLM tool of the Higg Index holistically assesses working conditions of the mills, including fair wages and compensation, health & safety, respectful treatment of employees etc; while the FEM tool focuses more on environmental performance, including energy consumption, greenhouse gas missions, water use, chemical and waste management. Allen Zhang, President of Sateri, said, “In light of increasing scrutiny on working conditions in the textile industry, the FSLM tool enables us to identify gaps and opportunities to improve on social and labour practices. Our high score of over 80% is an affirmation of our ongoing efforts to uphold workers’ welfare and create a conducive work environment, especially during these difficult times brought about by the COVID-19 pandemic.”

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - February 2022

About Sateri Sateri is the world’s largest producer of viscose fibre, a natural biodegradable raw material found in everyday items like textiles, wet wipes and other personal hygiene products. Their five mills in China collectively produce about 1.5 million tonnes of viscose fibre yearly.

Allen Zhang President Sateri

Their range of high quality viscose products, branded EcoCosy®, is independently verified as safe, sustainable, and responsibly produced. Sateri also produce textile yarn, spunlace non-woven fabric, Lyocell, and FINEX™, a recycled textile fibre. Headquartered in Shanghai, Sateri has a sales, marketing and customer service network covering Asia, Europe and the Americas. Sateri stricly adheres to their Sustainability Policy, Pulp Sourcing Policy and universally accepted environmental and social standards.

Pakistan's cotton spinning sector: an overview by Prof. Dr. Noor Ahmed Memon, Dadabhoy Institute of Higher Education. Textile is the most important manufacturing sector of Pakistan. It has the longest production chain, with inherent potential for value addition at every stage, from cotton to ginning, spinning, fabric, dyeing and finishing, made-ups and garments. This sector contributes nearly one-fourth of industrial value-added and employs about 40 per cent of the industrial labour force. Barring seasonal and cyclical fluctuations, textile products have maintained an average share of about 60 per cent in national exports.

Cotton Spinning Sector The spinning sector is the backbone of the textile sector of Pakistan. According to the Textiles Commissioners Organization (TCO), it comprises 517 textile units (40 composite units and 477 spinning units) with 13.414 million spindles and 198,801 rotors installed and 11.338 million spindles and 126,583 rotors in operation with capacity utilization of 84.55 per cent and 63.67 per cent, respectively.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - February 2022

Table 1: Installed Working Capacity and Production of Yarn (000 Spindles) Year

Installed Capacity

Working Capacity

Production of yarn (Million Kg)

2016-17

13.41

11.88

3,428

2017-18

13.41

11.29

3,485

2018-19

13.41

11.34

3,431

2019-20

13.41

11.34

2,238

2020-21

13.41

11.34

2,880

Source: Textile Commissioner Organization.

124 large spinning units, and 425 small units that produce textiles. Pakistan has emerged as one of the major cotton textile suppliers globally, with a share of the global yarn and cotton fabric trade of about 30% and 8%, respectively, maintaining the sector as a backbone of industrial activity for the country. The annual volume of the total world textile and clothing trade is more than US$ 785 billion in 2019; Pakistan's share is less than 3%.

Spinning Review Cotton production during the current season has improved considerably due to favourable weather conditions. However, the country remains reliant on imports to meet the remaining demand, and the rising international cotton prices will put pressure on the sector's margins.

Pakistan Imports of Cotton

Due to exchange rate volatility, a greater reliance on imported raw materials also increases currency risk exposure. Pakistan's polyester demand took a steep dip in FY20, registering a fall of 26 per cent year-on-year, owing to a halt in business activities and reduced demand from the textile sector. However, the market has recovered since then. The spinning sector is the backbone of the ranking of textile production. The rapid increase in spinning capacity due to technological advances has substantially increased cotton production and related products. Pakistan's spinning sector caters not only to the requirements of the domestic industry but also about onethird of the total output of yarn is exported to different destinations.

Imports Pakistan's cotton imports were US$1.91 Billion in 2021, according to the United Nations COMTRADE database on international trade.

Exports Pakistan exported cotton yarn worth US$1Billion in 2020-21. However, yarn exports have declined from a high of 522 million kgs in 2017-18 to 390 MN kgs in 2020-21. In terms of value, cotton yarn exports declined from 1.37 BN US$ in 2017-18 to US$1BN in 2020-21.

Pakistan Exports of cotton yarn (cotton content 85%) to China

Raw material

production of cotton is insufficient to meet the increased demand.

Cotton is considered a lifeline of the economy of Pakistan. However, erratic weather has crippled the country's already ailing cotton sector in the past three seasons. Cotton crop faces significant challenges vis-à-vis competing for crops, especially sugarcane. Most important being unfavourable international prices. At present, the country has been unable to achieve its full exports potential in the textile sector and product diversification due to limited access to raw-material. Moreover, as the country receives huge exports orders, local

Table 2: Exports of Cotton Yarn

Quantity

Value

Unit Value

(000 Kgs)

(US $ 000)

($/ Kg)

2016-17

456,074

1,243,745

2.73

2017-18

521,959

1,371,919

2.63

2018-19

423,975

1,125,419

2.59

2019-20

412,553

984,901

2.39

2020-21

390,565

1,016,969

2.60

Year

Source: Trade Development Authority of Pakistan.

The worsening situation is purportedly due to the supply of substandard cotton seeds to farmers, which caused colossal losses to Pakistan in terms of water, land, labour, yield, and electricity, besides financial losses to farmers. Moreover, to meet the demands of its textile industry, Pakistan regularly imports cotton, mainly from Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan and the US. As a result, the country will likely have to import 6 million bales 2919-20.

Challenges The Pakistani textile industry, considered the backbone of the export sector, faces new issues that should be dealt with promptly. The quality of Pakistani yarn brings back global buyers who are disappointed by inconsistent and low-quality Indian yarn. However, Pakistani yarn manufacturers are not able to match Indian rates that are subsidized by their government. While the industry is expected to nearly double exports to US$ 25 billion by 2024, many of the challenges long faced by the sector have not been addressed.

Spinning Review The government must immediately take notice of the provision of substandard cotton seeds to farmers by the suppliers and strict action must be taken against them as exporters see it as an act against the interest of Pakistan.

2018-19

2019-20

2020-21

China

707,923

676,847

686,044

Turkey

44,442

47,839

31,960

Italy

24,554

17,667

21,310

Portugal

42,808

34,563

43,564

Germany

11,502

10,994

89,041

Korea Republic

26,602

19,989

22,257

Japan

30,854

24,784

22,299

U.S. America

22,457

18,650

18,553

Hong Kong

6,086

9,074

1,513

Belgium

21,693

5,000

3,224

United Kingdom

2,028

1,624

2,081

References

Spain

4,589

3151

2,477

1. 2. 3. 4.

All others

179,881

114,719

72,646

1,125,419

984,901

1,016,969

First, the government should introduce good policies to make farmers have the consciousness and enthusiasm of planting cotton, and in particular, the government's policies should ensure that the farmers can make good money by planting cotton. Second, the government should increase investment in scientific research, and strengthen scientific research and technological development for cotton planting. Only in this way, can the technology of cotton planting always be at the advanced level in the world. And only in this way, can Pakistan's exports of textile products and cotton yarn increase significantly.

Table 3: Country wise Exports of Cotton Yarn Value: US$ 000

Textile Commissioner Organization Pakistan Bureau of Statistics. Pakistan Economic Survey-2020-21. Trade Development Authority of Pakistan.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - February 2022

Country

Total

Source: Trade Development Authority of Pakistan.

Spinning Review

How to prevent Fiber Rupture? Mills pay a lot of attention to the quality of cotton during the purchase but many are not aware of haw much damage is happening to fibers before spinning. Ideally, one would like the properties ct- original fibers to be maintained in processed fibers. In the case of synthetic fibers, it is even mare critical to avoid rupture - these are more sensitive and subject to damage easily. Rupture in synthetic fibers not only causes serious quality issues but also plays havoc with the production process leading to high variability and frequent stoppages in production. The use of chemical sprays, dyes, and powders also adds to complications in synthetic fibers.

Fiber rupture can cost heavily in terms of:

Saw Tooth Harsh Opening

Pins Gentle Opening

    

Increasing short fiber content Increasing hairiness of yarns Generating micro-dust Weakening fibers hence reducing CSP Increasing spindle breaks and winder cuts  Increasing process waste and reducing yarn realization The above effects lead to a significant lass at- production, efficiency, fiber yield, and yarn quality. So, everyone should be interested in reducing rupture Adopting gentle spinning is the sclution to minimize these problems. Wire causes harsh opening due to the knife-edged saw tooth wires whereas Pins do gentle opening due to the smooth rounded tips which last very lang too. In addition to minimal rupture, Gentle Opening ensures better cleaning of trash. The above effects lead to a significant loss of production, efficiency. fiber yield. and yarn quality.

Pinned Lickerin

So, everyone should be interested Pinned Lickerin in reducing rupture. Adopting gentle pinned type is not enough, one has to spinning is the solution to minimize these also optimize the settings for best results problems. Wire causes harsh opening due from pinned beaters. to the knife-edged saw tooth wires Same settings as wire rollers will not whereas Pins do gentle opening due to give many benefits since the action of the smooth rounded tips which last very wire on fibers is a cutting action under long too. In addition to minimal rupture. pressure ( close settings) whereas the Gentle Opening ensures better cleaning action of pins is a gentle untangling of trash, removal of powders, better action without pressure ( open settings). opening, and more consistency (due to Due to the significant reduction in waste, long life) in the preparatory process. savings generated can provide a payback Many of our clients have also been able in 6-9 months ( life of pin rollers is 4-10 to reduce comber noil % upon using Pinned Rollers in Blowroom and Cards. years, depending on operating conditions) for the investment on retrofitting Basant Fibertek, specializes in gentle wire rollers with pinned ones. fiber opening solutions using the right design of Pinned Beaters, Pinned Lickerins, and the right machine settings to achieve optimal results in terms of production, quality, and yarn realization. Merely replacing saw tooth rollers with

Spiral Pinned Beater

Save Fibers, Save Production Loss, Save Process Waste. Adopt sustainable Spinning through Gentle Spinning! For more information: https://www.bwipins.com/

First information on the financial year 2021 Order Intake of CHF 2 225.7 Million in Financial Year 2021

The order intake of the Business Group Components CHF million Difference in 2021 2020 Difference (unaudited) local currency

 Order intake of CHF 551.8 million in  



fourth quarter 2021 Sales of CHF 969.2 million in financial year 2021 Implementation of the acquisition of the three Saurer businesses on schedule EBIT margin of 4.5% to 5% of sales expected in financial year 2021

Due to the continuing high demand for new installations, components and services, Rieter posted an order intake of CHF 551.8 million in the fourth quarter of 2021. As a result, Rieter achieved a total

Rieter

2,225.7

640.2

248%

247%

Machines & Systems

1,708.6

363.9

370%

369%

Components

296.0

169.1

75%

74%

After Sales

221.1

107.2

106%

108%

order intake of CHF 2 225.7 million in the 2021 financial year (2020: CHF 640.2 million). The exceptionally high order intake is broadly supported at the global level. As reported previously, this is based on a catch-up effect from the two prior years

Sales by Business Group CHF million (unaudited)

2021

2020

Difference

Difference in local Currency

Rieter

969.2

573.0

69%

Machines & Systems

590.3

295.8

100%

99%

Compenents

231.5

174.3

33%

32%

After Sales

147.4

102.9

43%

45%

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - February2022

and a regional shift in demand. Rieter believes that a major reason for this shift in demand is the development of costs in China. The orders came primarily from Turkey, India, Latin America, Uzbekistan, China and Pakistan. At the end of 2021, the company had an order backlog of around CHF 1 840 million (December 31, 2020: around CHF 560 million). Despite bottlenecks in material supplies and freight capacities, sales performance up to the end of the year was better than expected. The Rieter Group closed the 2021 financial year with sales of CHF 969.2 million (2020: CHF 573.0 million).

Spinning Review Implementation of the Acquisition of the Three Saurer Businesses Effective from December 1, 2021, Rieter is consolidating the components businesses Accotex and Temco acquired from Saurer. With the acquisition of Accotex (elastomer components for spinning machines) and Temco (bearing solutions for filament machines), Rieter is strengthening the market position in the components business. The figures from the two businesses have been incorporated into the results for the 2021 financial year as follows: the 2021 order intake includes CHF 2.1 million and the 2021 sales includes CHF 3.3 million. The two businesses contributed a total of around CHF 27 million to the order backlog at the end of 2021. The acquisition of Saurer’s third business (automatic winder) leads to a significant increase in the attractiveness of Rieter’s ring and compact-spinning systems and is expected to be completed in the first half of 2022. Accordingly, order intake and sales are not included in the figures for the 2021 financial year.

Sales by Region CHF million (unaudited)

2021

2020

Difference

Difference in local currency

Rieter

969.2

573.0

69%

Asian Countries1

318.7

184.8

72%

China

135.3

46%

41%

India

126.0

50.8

148%

151%

Turkey

182.3

122.0

49%

50%

North and South America

149.9

66.4

126%

128%

Europe

43.3

38.4

13%

Africa

13.7

17.8

-23%

1 Without China, India, Trkey year (2020: CHF 107.2 million). The main reason for the positive order intake in both Business Groups is the continuing increased demand for spare and wear parts in spinning mills, which are operating at high capacity.

Sales by Business Group

Rieter will publish the full annual financial statements and the 2021 Annual Report on March 9, 2022.

Despite the challenges in the supply chain announced earlier, the Business Group Machines & Systems achieved sales of CHF 590.3 million, double the previous year’s figure (2020: CHF 295.8 million). Sales of the Business Group Components increased to CHF 231.5 million (2020: CHF 174.3 million). The Business Group After Sales achieved sales of CHF 147.4 million (2020: CHF 102.9 million).

Order Intake by Business Group

Sales by Region

Thanks to the company’s innovative product portfolio and global positioning, all three Business Groups benefited from the high level of demand.

Sales increased in all regions, with the exception of the region Africa. The highest year-on-year growth of 148% was achieved in India, followed by North and South America (+126%) and the Asian countries (+72%), excluding China, India and Turkey.

EBIT Margin Rieter anticipates an EBIT margin of 4.5% to 5% of sales in the 2021 financial year (2020: -14.7%).

The Business Group Machines & Systems posted an order intake of CHF 1 708.6 million (2020: CHF 363.9 million). The main focus of demand was on ring and compact-spinning systems. The order intake of the Business Group Components was CHF 296.0 million, an increase of 75% compared to the previous year (2020: CHF 169.1 million). The Business Group After Sales recorded an order intake of CHF 221.1 million, 106% higher than the previous

Rieter will issue an outlook for the 2022 financial year at the Results Press Conference on March 9, 2022.

Annual General Meeting of April 7, 2022 The 2022 Annual General Meeting of Rieter Holding Ltd. will take place on April 7, 2022. Proposals regarding the agenda must be submitted in writing,

accompanied by information concerning the relevant motions and evidence of the necessary shareholdings (with a par value of CHF 0.5 million as stipulated by Article 699 of the Swiss Code of Obligations (OR) and Article 9 of the Articles of Association), by no later than February 18, 2022, to Rieter Holding Ltd., Office of the Company Secretary, Klosterstrasse 32, CH-8406 Winterthur, Switzerland.

Telephone Conference for Media and Investors The telephone conference for media and investors will take place today, January 26, 2022, at 09.00 am (CET).

About Rieter Rieter is the world’s leading supplier of systems for short-staple fiber spinning. Based in Winterthur (Switzerland), the company develops and manufactures machinery, systems and components used to convert natural and manmade fibers and their blends into yarns. Rieter is the only supplier worldwide to cover both spinning preparation processes and all four end spinning processes currently established on the market. Furthermore, Rieter is a leader in the field of precision winding machines. With 17 manufacturing locations in ten countries, the company employs a global workforce of some 4 900, about 18% of whom are based in Switzerland. Rieter is listed on the SIX Swiss Exchange under ticker symbol RIEN.

Spinning Review

Spinners know what they want … and how to get it with Uster RSO 3D Uster, Switzerland, 2nd September 2021 – For the first time, mills can now intelligently correlate ring quality data and winding quality data in a single system – for significant profitability increases. RSO 3D is the ‘third dimension’ of quality. A case study from practice shows how a mill made real gains, with the vital figures to prove it. An ambitious spinner was aiming to reach the next level of quality management. For this customer, it was essential that quality, as well as profitability, had to be improved. The medium-sized spinning mill in India installed Uster-Muratec RSO 3D as part of an expansion project. The installation includes 30 compact ring spinning machines with Uster Sentinel, in combination with Muratec QPRO EX/FPRO EX featuring Spin Inspector and Uster Quantum yarn clearers. On these machines, the customer produces 100% combed cotton yarn, in counts Ne 26 and Ne 32.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - February 2022

Advantages in percentages When the new installation was being started up, a direct comparison between RSO 3D and the standard installation was executed as a trial to demonstrate the difference. The evidence showed that the spinner was able to reduce yarn faults by 10% and yarn alarms by 12% in both counts with RSO 3D. Quality blocks were reduced by a further 7% and finally clearer quality cuts by 8%. Overall, this spinner was able to reduce the total yarn splices by 5%, producing about 5 kg more good yarn per machine per month.

Money talks, clearly The mill’s results are impressive. Some small calculations convert the facts into numbers. Let’s start with energy savings. By reducing yarn joints on the winding machines, the customer needed less compressed air and thus less electricity for

the machine compressor unit. These savings together amount to approximately 954 kWh per machine per month. Calculated at about 0.08 USD (6 INR) per kWh, this comes to 77 USD (5,724 INR) per machine per month. With 30 machines, this amounts to 27,720 USD (almost 2 million INR) the whole year. On top of the financial savings, the mill also noted an increase in the level of ‘good’ material. The 5 kg reduction in waste means there is 5 kg more good yarn per machine every month which can be sold. With 30 machines, this totals 1800 kg more yarn per year. Based on a price of 3.77 USD (280 INR/kg), this achieves an increase in sales worth another 6,786 USD (500,000 INR). Combining both these calculations, the overall gain for the spinner totals 2.5 million INR per year, equivalent to about 35,000 USD/year, apart from significant savings due to reduced clearer cuts.

Spinning Review Further advantages can also be expected in downstream processes. Fewer cuts mean the yarn has fewer potential weak points leading to less stoppages due to yarn breaks. This makes it possible to adapt subsequent process speeds, while the customer will also benefit from an improved fabric appearance.

Operators benefit too… The working area for machine operators could be increased significantly – while reducing the stress factor. This is possible because Uster Sentinel notifies the operators from a distance about individual yarn breaks. The system uses signal lamps at the head of the machine, at the relevant section, and at the affected spinning position. So, the operator is logically guided to the next yarn break, instead of having to search laboriously for yarn breaks along all machine sides. When an operator locates a yarn break, the type of break is indicated at the spinning position. Different signals categorize the problem as either Slip, Off Quality, Rogue or RSO 3D alarm. At this mill, operators are instructed to deal exclusively with yarn breaks, but not with the RSO 3D alarms. These are the responsibility of highly-trained technicians, because RSO 3D alarms indicate a faulty setting at the spinning position, and repairing them is both necessary and time-consuming. The RSO 3D alarms are displayed to the technicians by the Sentinel LEDs, and also on the Quantum control unit (CCU), as well as on the RSO 3D Quality Map. As a result, the customer can deploy trained personnel in a very targeted and efficient manner. At the same time, the mill could increase spinning capacity and the working areas of the operators through path optimization.

Rapid payback Individual quality data for each spindle position enables quality mapping across the ring spinning machine. This helps to identify outlier sides, sections or

spindles, in addition to supporting maintenance decisions. Quality mapping also enables users to trace problems back to the individual roving machine and bobbin. Thanks to quality mapping, spinners can keep the entire ring spinning machine under control – and their profits as well. RSO 3D proves its worth, for every cent invested, because of cost savings through reduced compressed air use and savings in energy. Payback comes earlier with the higher production efficiency based on saving cuts. It means the extra amount of good yarn sold is equal to what would have otherwise been wasted at the winding machine. “The customer is convinced of Uster RSO 3D because of the increased spinning productivity and profitability, as well as facing the challenge of the lack of well-skilled staff by utilizing trained personnel in a very targeted and efficient manner,” says Amol Kekre, General Manager Sales & Marketing at Uster’s subsidiary in India. Bigger profits come with increased quality standards, because of much smoother running at the winders. Claims are a thing of past and increased production efficiency assured for the future. The spinner’s downstream customers will also be delighted to

increase production speed in their own processes – and to improve fabric appearance at the same time.

About Uster Technologies Uster is the world’s leading provider of quality management solutions from fiber to fabric. Uster Technologies offers hightechnology instruments, systems and services for quality control, prediction, certification and optimization in the textile industry. This includes systems for quality management, laboratory testing and in-line process control for fibers, staple and filament yarns, fabric inspection as well as value-added services. Uster provides the globallyacknowledged Uster Statistics benchmarks for trading, textile knowhow training, consulting and worldwide after-sales services – always aspiring to fulfill the textile market’s needs, to drive innovation forward with ‘quality in mind’. Uster Technologies AG is headquartered in Uster, Switzerland and operates worldwide. It has sales and service subsidiaries in the major textile markets and Technology Centers in Uster (Switzerland), Knoxville (USA), Suzhou (China) and Caesarea (Israel). 

Regenerative agriculture takes sustainable fashion to the next level 61% of brands and retailers see increased demand for sustainable products from consumers Today more than ever before, consumers across the globe want to know that the clothes in their closets are sustainably sourced. So much so, that research conducted by the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol, a farm level, science based initiative that is setting a new standard in more sustainably grown cotton, found that 61% of brands and retailers have witnessed increased demand for sustainable products from consumers. While consumer demand for more sustainable fashion is pushing global brands and retailers to provide transparency and evidence that sustainable practices are being implemented and followed throughout the supply chain - we’re left wondering, is it enough?

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - February 2022

Regenerative agriculture aims for more Sustainability has been a focus of U.S. cotton growers for generations. Case in point, just over the past 35 years, U.S. cotton producers have used 79% less water and 54% less energy, reduced greenhouse gas emissions by 40%, all while reducing land use by 49%. The adoption of practices such as minimal tillage, GPS and sensor-driven precision agriculture, and the growing of winter cover crops have further improved soil health, reducing loss and erosion by 37% per acre and increasing soil carbon levels. Yet, U.S. cotton growers understand that they must constantly improve in order to protect and preserve the planet to ultimately help create more sustainable clothing.

That’s where regenerative agriculture comes in. It goes a step further and aims for net positives, as opposed to simply having a neutral impact on the environment.

Regenerative agriculture practices aim to better the land U.S. cotton growers’ efforts towards continuous improvement are central to the Trust Protocol and the U.S. cotton industry taking sustainability to the next level. Practices such as conservation tillage and growing cover crops have helped soil health and increased soil carbon levels. Although U.S. cotton growers have been implementing these techniques for decades, these

Spinning Review practices have recently been grouped into a manner of farming called regenerative agriculture. Positive environmental impact Regenerative agriculture builds upon the positive environmental impacts of sustainable practices, aiming for a whole systems approach to positive sustainability practices. U.S. cotton growers are already implementing impactful regenerative agriculture practices, including using production practices that conserve and protect soil health to increase biodiversity and capture carbon in the soil. They’re also focused on nutrient management, to maintain healthy plants and targeted replacement of nutrients whilst minimizing leaching and run-off. They practice water stewardship and water use efficiency to increase soil water holding capacity. Biodiversity is an important part of the mix, and they employ practices that promote plant, animal and microorganism biodiversity for more efficient use of the land. Regenerative agriculture is not a one size fits all manner of farming.

Instead, it looks at a combination of practices that support resilience, as well as building and nourishing our ecosystem. When these regenerative practices are implemented successfully, the health of the agriculture ecosystem and farmer economic stability are improved. And ultimately brands, retailers, mills and manufacturers can provide consumers with the verified, data based sustainable clothing they desire. There is no finish line when it comes to sustainable practices or regenerative

agriculture. Individuals and organizations continue to develop new technologies, processes and research that aid growers in further implementing new and innovative sustainable practices. Now more than ever, people care about the environment and how their clothes are made. And, while the distance from U.S. cotton fields, to the runways of global fashion brands, and consumer closets may seem far, the focus on regenerative agriculture has never been more impactful.

The state-of-the-art TCO 21 from Trützschler offers a range of easy-to-use features that boost productivity and quality.

TCO 21: The next generation comber machine Comber machines from Trützschler are

features that give our customers a

significantly higher efficiency because of

already trusted by customers across the tex-

decisive advantage over their

their larger dimensions. This, for example,

tiles industry and around the globe. Now, a

competitors.

has positive effects on the number of

state-of-the-art new design is building on this track record to boost productivity, ensure quality and support increased automation: Meet the TCO 21!

Powerful productivity and raw material savings One of the key benefits of the TCO

necessary cans and can transports – and results in lower personnel costs.

Excellent yarn quality

Higher productivity. Better quality.

21 is its advanced processing speed. This

The TCO 21 comes with COUNT

Less waste. The search for continuous

next-generation combing machine is able

MONITORING as standard. This feature

improvement in the textile industry never

to produce at a rate of up to 600 nips per

makes it possible for the machine

ends. That’s why innovators at Trützschler

minute. This puts it at the very top of the

operator to define limits for count

never stop exploring fresh ways of

market, offering best-in-class

variations via an easy-to-use display.

optimizing combing performance. The

productivity. To increase this even further,

Trützschler’s DISC MONITOR system of

TCO 21 is the latest milestone in our long

the TCO 21 can perfectly be coordinated

sensors measures the count continuously,

history of driving progress for spinners

with Trützschler’s highly economical

and the machine alerts the operator and

around the globe. It leverages market-

JUMBO CANS (Ø 1.200 mm). They not

switches off if the limit is exceeded. In

proven designs and technologies from

only reduce yarn defects due to fewer

addition, the COUNT MONITORING

Trützschler to offer next-level

piecings which leads to quality

function also includes spectrogram

performance and an expanded range of

improvements, but also offer a

analysis.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - February2022

Spinning Review Customers can further strengthen their focus on quality by choosing to add the COUNT CONTROL function to the TCO 21. It is managed via the same easyto-use display, and offers automatic sliver count measurement, as well as spectrogram analysis. On top of this, it automatically regulates the main draft during production to balance count variations and ensure the desired sliver count. This feature is particularly attractive for customers who manufacture blends of cotton and synthetic, as it can also be used to avoid variations in the overall yarn composition.

Automatic optimization The TCO 21 joins the TCO 12 from Trützschler as the only combing machines on the market that offer an automatic PIECING OPTIMIZER technology that finds the right piecing setting without a single laboratory test because of two functions: First by adjusting the piecing time in the combing cycle (timing function). Whereas the resetting of the detaching point (piecing time) is usually a

The T-LED display

very time-consuming task, it now takes only a few minutes and is performed automatically at a push on a button. Second the customer is helped to select specific detaching curve types (curve function) for their unique requirements.

Easy operation The TCO 21 is simple to operate and maintain. The SMART TOUCH display is fast and intuitive, and a Radio-Frequency Identification (RFID) sensor quickly identifies each user and adapts the

The DISC MONITOR system measures the count continuously

Spinning Review information on the display to their individual needs. The multi-colored T-LED display provides visual indications of the machine’s status or quality parameters over large distances which enables the operator recognizing them at a glance in the entire spinning mill. The TCO 21 is built with original Trützschler electronics that ensure top-class performance and durability: Our intelligent cooling system, that has already proven itself in the draw frame TD 10, contributes to a longer service life by reducing the operating temperature of electronic power components. Even if components have to be replaced at some point, the customer can keep his spare parts inventory small because he can switch also electronics spare parts flexibly between different machine types, e.g. cards and draw frames. The option to add an automatic

greasing function perfectly completes the easy operation of the TCO 21.

Germany. The company is divided into

The TCO 21 marks an exciting step forward in the constant journey toward more effective spinning processes. With its impressive range of modern and easyto-use automated features, the machine is able to boost productivity and quality, while empowering operators to customize and optimize performance quickly and easily. It’s the latest innovation that builds on Trützschler’s tradition of providing state-of-the-art spinning preparation machines that give our customers a competitive advantage. And it’s now available for sales around the world.

Nonwovens, ManMade Fibers, and Card

About Trützschler

centers in Bangladesh, Indonesia,

The Trützschler Group SE is a German textile machinery manufacturer headquartered in Mönchengladbach,

The T-LED display provides visual indications of the machine’s status over a large distance.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - February2022

four business units: Spinning,

Clothing. Trützschler machines, installations and accessories are produced in nine locations worldwide. This includes four factories in Germany (Dülmen, Egelsbach, Mönchengladbach, Neubulach), as well as production sites in China (Jiaxing and Shanghai), India (Ahmedabad), the USA (Charlotte) and Brazil (Curitiba). The company also operates a development location in Switzerland (Winterthur). Its service

Pakistan and Vietnam provide customer proximity in key regions for the textile processing industry.

Spinning Review

Saurer sells its embroidery business to Lässer The embroidery business unit of Saurer Intelligent Technology AG has been taken over by Lässer Holding AG, the shuttle embroidery machine manufacturer based in Diepoldsau, St Gallen, Switzerland. The majority of employees was taken over. The transfer of operations will be completed by end May 2022. This step represents a consolidation of the two market leaders in the production of shuttle embroidery machines. Lässer is a family-owned company and was founded in 1954. Saurer developed the first shuttle embroidery machine as early as 1878. In this asset deal, all the assets and contracts allocated to the embroidery business will be transferred to Lässer Holding AG. "We are confident that with the newly combined knowledge, Lässer will lead the industry to sustainable success. We believe we have found the best solution for both our customers and employees with this measure," explains

Anton Kehl of Saurer Intelligent Technology AG. "While this decision was not easy for us, we are positive about the future of the shuttle embroidery market in this new configuration." Lässer has its headquarters and production facility in Diepoldsau along with a further 12 sites worldwide, including in Turkey, India and Thailand. Franz Lässer, co-owner and chairman of the board of directors of Lässer Holding AG, says: "As a proud Swiss company, it made sense for us to join forces with another well-known name in the industry. With this step, we are pooling more than two centuries of knowledge and look forward to continuing to inspire our customers around the world with innovative developments." For customers, the retention of employees ensures that the Saurer embroidery machines will be optimally supported and maintained in the future.

About Saurer Group The Saurer Group, founded in 1853, is a leading, globally active technology company with a focus on machines and components for yarn production. As a company with a long tradition, we have always been an innovation leader. Today, the group is a solution provider for the textile industry consisting of two segments. Spinning Solutions offers highquality, technologically advanced and customer-specific automated solutions for staple fibre processing from bale to yarn. Saurer Technologies specialises in intelligent and economical twisting and cabling machines for tire cord, carpet, staple fibre, glass filament and industrial yarns, which allow customers to adapt flexibly to dynamic market requirements. With around 4 000 employees, the Saurer Group, with locations in Switzerland, Germany, Turkey, Brazil, Mexico, the USA, China, India, Uzbekistan, and Singapore, is well equipped to serve the world's textile centres. Saurer is listed on the Shanghai Stock Exchange (WKN: 600545). www.saurer.com.

Marzoli Roving Frame: Efficiency, Flexibility and Productivity Ever since the conception of Marzoli FT Roving Frame, the company is continuously searching for innovative ways to further improve their technology, to grant efficiency and flexibility in the roving production. Marzoli FT meets the needs of:

Higher Productivity Thanks to a higher number of spindles, smaller tube diameters and a smaller and more accessible head-stock.

Investment Savings The superior productivity, underpinned by a higher number of

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - February2022

spindles, allows to have a smaller number of machines to reach the desired production level.

Lower Operational Costs Thanks to the adoption of MRM for the remote maintenance and a special detection system to benefits from an energy saving of 4kW per hour.

Digitalisation & AI With Brain Box, the artificial intelligence makes possible the monitoring of critical parameters, for a better performance of the machine.

State of the Art Technology for Roving Production Marzoli FT6E and FT7E are a fullyupdated version of its market-leading roving frames. Equipped with all the most advanced technology, they represent technological excellence for productivity and efficiency. The drives for the drafting system, the flyers, the spindles and the bobbin rail are independent and coordinated by the central CPU. This simplifies the machine, for a perfect coordination, reducing the number of components, lowering friction, vibrations and mechanical wear.

Spinning Review The higher number of spindles, the FT6E and FT7E roving frames can respectively reach 240 and 192 spindles, allows to reduce investment and operational costs while boosting productivity per machine. The roving sensors, one for each spinning position, (option) allow to immediately detect any roving breakage and promptly stop the machine, even in case of roving overlap. This makes suction not necessary: the machine can be supplied without suction box (option) and the client can save up to 4 kWh per machine. The FT6E and FT7E roving frames present 3 different options for doffing: semi-automatic doffing, fully- automatic doffing, pre-arrangement for automatic doffing upgrade. In the semiautomatic version the bobbin rail lowers and tilts out for easy bobbin collection; there is also a parking for empty tubes just in front of the rail for easy replacement. In the fully-automatic version full bobbins are collected by the doffer rail and forwarded to the transport system. Empty tubes are inserted on the spindles and brought into working position before the machine restarts. All these operations are carried out automatically, with no human intervention, in less than 3 minutes. The roving frame with prearrangement for the automatic doffing

upgrade is a whole new option. Although very similar to the semi-automatic one, this version allows to undertake a costefficient upgrade to the fully- automatic version at any time.

FT6E & FT7E Drafting System for Perfect control and uniform draft The drafting system of the FT6E and FT7E roving frames ensures a constant load for every spinning position for a perfect control and uniform draft of the slivers. It is available in different configurations in order to effectively address any market request:  Three-over-three or four-over-four 32 mm or 27 mm cylinder diameters  Pneumatic or mechanical pressure arms  Rubber scraper or revolving felt belt for drafting rollers cleaner  Rubber fins or revolving felt belt for top roller cleaner  Auxiliary drafting drive.

About Marzoli Marzoli, one of the major brands of the textile sector worldwide, is a unique European manufacturer of the complete line of machines for the opening, preparation and spinning of short-staple fiber. From the bale opener to the ring spinning frame, Marzoli offers the most advanced technology for a completelyautomated spinning mill.

Through its global sales and service network, its expertise on each type of fiber and application and the competence on the entire process, Marzoli represents a competent and reliable partner. And through its experience, knowhow and commitment, it provides its customers with: Advanced spinning solutions through a careful activity of textile engineering. Marzoli assists its customers from the study of the spinning plan, throughout sourcing, erection and commissioning, up to maintenance of the resulting turnkey spinning plant, which can comprise Marzoli but also third-party machinery. The customer can rely on the competence and capability of a unique partner, responsible for the quality and productivity of the entire spinning mill. The advantages of smart spinning. No matter what the brand(s) of the machinery is, Marzoli can install its software platforms, YarNet and MRM, its hardware applications for gathering data on waste percentages and its composition, quality values, productivity indexes and other kpi data to let the customer build on the potential of Industry 4.0, optimize the entire spinning procss through well-informed decisions and reach the highest performance in production operations.

Fig. 1: Dusty material like linen fibers present a challenge in spinning mills..

Easy Processing of Dusty LinenViscose Blend The highly efficient suction system of the draw frame SB-D 50 enables the processing of dusty material like linen fibers. At Rieter customers the singlehead draw frame without autoleveler runs at a delivery speed of up to 800 m/min with a blend of linen and viscose. The popularity of linen has increased

area and, if delayed, can lower machine performance.

Draw frame SB-D 50 with efficient suction system The single-head draw frame SB-D 50 without autoleveler offers the greatest flexibility (Fig. 2). It is designed for cotton

in recent years, especially for clothing.

and man-made fibers but is also perfectly

Linen is very breathable and dries faster

suited to process special fibers like linen

than cotton, making it comfortable to

with high productivity.

wear even in hot weather. However, a

For easy processing of dirty and dusty

major challenge for spinners is that linen

material, the SB-D 50 is equipped with a

fibers have a high trash content and tend

highly efficient suction system. The

to generate wood dust during processing

cleaning lips are lifted regularly so that

(Fig. 1), especially on the first draw frame

trash accumulations end up directly in the

passage.

suction.

This can lead to deposits on machine

the operator in the drafting and coiling

The automatic filter cleaning system

parts, particularly at higher speeds. These

keeps the filter screen clean with the help

deposits cause tedious cleaning work for

of a wiper. The operator can set the

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - February 2022

suction intensity easily and quickly on the machine display. Four suction slots in the infeed of the drafting unit enable a 24hour operation. The efficient suction system at the pre-draw frame reduces dust during coiling and keeps the production efficiency in the subsequent processes at a high level.

High productivity, easy handling and 13% energy savings Customers are very satisfied with the operation and productivity of the SB-D 50 at high speed. The draw frame runs smoothly and trouble-free with a blend of linen and viscose (55/45%) at 800 m/min. The easy accessibility for maintenance work and the central lubrication point also make working with the SB-D 50 convenient for the operator. Six machines can be easily handled by one operator.

Spinning Review In addition, the workload at the next draw frame and at the roving frame is reduced due to fewer stoppages and sliver breaks. The excellent operation of the SB-D 50 thus ensures consistent sliver quality with high productivity and best yarn quality in downstream processes. Thanks to the patented drive concept ECOrized with fewer drive elements, the SB-D 50 saves energy even at higher delivery speeds. The frequency-controlled drive for the suction and the individual drive for the coiler are unique. As a result, customers benefit from around 13% energy savings compared to the competitor machine (Fig 3).

Fig. 3: Customers save around 13% energy, thanks to the innovative machine concept.

established on the market. Furthermore, Rieter is a leader in the field of precision winding machines. With 17 manufacturing locations in ten countries, the company employs a global workforce

of some 4 900, about 18% of whom are based in Switzerland. Rieter is listed on the SIX Swiss Exchange under ticker symbol RIEN.

Fig. 2. The single-head draw frame SB-D 50 processes cotton, man-made fibers and also special fibers like linen with high productivity.

Vandewiele-Savio India Private Limited Vandewiele nv & Savio India announced today that they had finalized the merging process, creating a global network for their customers. The two companies will operate under the new name of VANDEWIELE-SAVIO INDIA PRIVATE LIMITED. “We are convinced that these joined forces provide a comprehensive network of integrated services that will better serve our customer’s needs for the Indian market”. This strategic alliance is set to immensely benefit the Indian textile industry, as the expertise from these two leading groups, offering complete weaving, winding, twisting solutions to the Indian customers, will give them a sustainable competitive advantage in their business.

About Vandewiele We build carpet looms, velvet looms, jacquard machines and integrate innovative textile systems for flooring qualities, home linen, fashion fabrics and technical textiles. Sharing inspiration and expertise with our customers worldwide, we shape the textile industry of the future. Creating success for them all, from yarn to finished product. Our Research and Development department and test-engineers are continuously developing new applications. The innovative breakthroughs of Vandewiele give a boost to the textile industry.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - February 2022

About SAVIO

Vandewiele-Savio India Private Limited

Over its 110+ years history, Savio acted as technological leader and most innovative player in attractive niches of the textile value chain. Savio leverages on the best value-for-money proposition in the industry. It has a consolidated presence in all relevant geographies with a local-for-local approach, allowing Savio to promptly address market demand and requirements. Savio is specialized in the textile machinery sector for the yarn finishing segment being the leading supplier of winding and twisting machines with manufacturing plants in Italy, China and India. Savio India, the advanced TFO manufacturing set up of Savio group in India, will continue to provide and ensure state of the art Customer Support and Spare Parts Services.

The merger of the Group activities has resulted in a wide range of synergies in the service, care solutions and developments, with benefits for the customers. VANDEWIELE-SAVIO INDIA Is ready to provide the region with high class Textile machines with cost effectiveness and the best support. With its corporate office located at Coimbatore with a strength of about 250 people and sales and service offices at Coimbatore, Ludhiana, Ahmedabad, Kolhapur and Thane covering the whole product range of the group . This will enforce the support and strength towards our Indian customers and increase our customer centricity.

Spinning Review

Circular combs and top combs for all applications Highest fiber yield at consistently high productivity with Graf’s comb system Yield, yarn quality and productivity are the key requirements in combing. Spinning mills using Graf combs benefit from up to 0.5% higher yield, 20% fewer imperfections and service lifetime extended at least 20%. The comprehensive comb portfolio ensures smooth operation for any application on every comber. By investing in a combing process, a spinning mill is able to serve the market segment for finer yarn count ranges of high quality and achieve higher prices for the yarn. In addition to the factors listed above, maximum raw-material utilization is also essential in combing. Only the short fibers are to be eliminated, while the good fibers must be retained in the process.

Combing expertise at a glance A staple fiber diagram explains the importance of precisely and accurately eliminating short fibers during the combing process (Fig. 1). It indicates that as the number of good fibers in the noil decreases the raw-material utilization increases in terms of achieving maximum yield. Conversely, it means that the fewer short fibers are in the combed sliver, the higher the yarn quality. The installation of the uniquely performing combs from Graf and perfectly aligned machine settings across all combing positions ensure an optimal result:  Top combs from the FIXPRO and the Ri-Q-Top series accu-

rately prevent short fibers from passing through and ensure that they are presented to the circular combs  Circular combs from the PRIMACOMB and Ri-Q-Comb flex series gently remove the unwanted short fibers and any remaining neps without damaging the good fibers  Circular combs Ri-Q-Comb flex are unique in that their height can be adjusted, which helps to provide a perfect parallel alignment between the circular combs and the nippers. This ensures an even higher level of precision for the combing process, resulting in even higher sliver quality and yield Graf’s comb solution portfolio provides the perfect comb package for any comber installed in the market.

Most selective top comb thanks to unrivaled tooth design Top combs from Graf ensure an optimal filter function for short fibers in the sliver. The secret is the perfect design of a wide tooth profile – paired with a parallel free vertical space between the teeth. This prerequisite ensures that the fiber fringe, consisting of accumulated short fibers, is perfectly presented to the circular comb. Both top comb series, FIXPRO and Ri-Q-Top, are characterized by a particularly smooth tooth surface, which prevents soiling and the absence of wrapped fibers to ensure a uniquely safe production process. This unrivaled surface treatment also ensures immediate start-up to the desired

production rate. Furthermore, spinning mills using Graf top combs benefit from the longest service lifetime available, which is up to 20% longer than other models on the market, thanks to the alloy CUTTYSHARP. The special assembly design of the teeth in a groove ensures unique robustness and an absolute straight alignment of the top comb’s teeth (Fig. 3).

Optimize margins with Graf circular combs Whether it’s a PRIMACOMB or Ri-Q-Comb flex model, Graf circular combs are known for maximal production reliability thanks to their robust and continuously optimized design and manufacturing processes that have been proven over decades. These circular combs reduce imperfections by up to 20% thanks to an unrivaled tooth design across the comb sections (Fig. 4 and 5). In addition, the spinning mill benefits from minimal investment costs, due to at least 20% longer service lifetime – made possible by the extremely wear-resistant alloy CUTTYSHARP.

Another very relevant advantage of all Graf combs is minimal soiling of the clothing as a result of the extremely smooth surface provided by the unique needle-finish surface treatment. As a premium, all Ri-Q-Comb flex combs offer a yield increase of up to 0.5%. The unique height adjustment feature allows a very ergonomic echanism to perfectly adjust the parallelism between the nipper and the circular comb. In summary, spinning mills can rely on highly effective Graf combs to remove short fibers and neps while keeping the good fibers in the process. These advantages result in lower conversion costs for the yarn produced. The particularly long service life further increases the overall efficiency of the spinning mill. Moreover, all mills can rely on their partnership with Graf, as it is based on innovation, service expertise and technical support – and therefore on the best possible value for money.

Mr. Zhang and Wang Zhiheng, Loepfe Service Manager

Xuzhou Huasheng Textile Co Ltd. China Loepfe Yarn Clearers are our Best Choice "Loepfe yarn clearers with Lab Pack quality assurance is our best choice” Mr. Zhang Yu Meng, Xuzhou Huasheng Textile Co Ltd. China Yarn spinning production in China is today confronted with rising wages, higher energy bills, shortage of labour and mounting logistical costs. The combination of these reasons is leading Chinese spinning companies to invest in machineries offering a higher degree of automation in their mills. The trend towards automation and digitalization significantly determines investments of the textile industry, both in new installations and in the replacement sector. Spinning mills that still work manually today with shorter spinning machines upgrade into economical automation thanks to the multi-link winding solutions, which makes it possible to assign several ring-spinning machines to a winder, which makes such link upgrades profitable with shorter spinning machines as well. Xuzhou Huasheng Textile Co. Ltd. has taken up this economical automation

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - February 2022

solution to stay competitive in the future and has just recently invested in 12 Savio Polar IDSL multi-link winders having up to 70 spindles with Loepfe YarnMaster ZENIT+D basic yarn clearers. At this mill, the foreign fibre cleaning functionality is not an issue with pure Viscose, Modal, Lyocell fibres and blends thereof processed. Each winder is linked with 3 different ring spinning machines. Xuzhou Huasheng Textile Co Ltd. is a privately held spinning company located in Peixian which is under the administration of Xuzhou, Jiangsu Province, China, bordering the Shandong prefecture level cities of Jining to the northwest and Zaozhuang to the northeast and sitting on the western shore of Nansi Lake. Established in the year 2000 and headed ever since by Mr. Zhang Yu Meng, Vice General Manager and General Manager for Production, Xuzhou Huasheng Textile Co. Ltd. quickly became the leading quality ring spinning mill in this area with 250’000 spindles offering an annual production capacity of 40’000 tons. Xuzhou Huasheng Textile Co. Ltd. is

focusing its activities primarily in the Siro spinning of Viscose, Modal, Viscose Modal and Viscose Lyocell blended yarns as well as slub yarns in the yarn count range of Ne 10 – Ne 100 for knitting and weaving fabrics. Mr. Zhang Yu Meng quotes: “To be successful in the long term in the highly competitive Viscose yarn market, it is extremely important that we are perceived as a supplier of constant yarn quality. Our long-term customers expect from us that we deliver constant yarn quality with every order. We’re working hard daily to achieve this reputation in the market and Loepfe’s yarn clearers of various generations with its unique Lab Pack quality assurance function help us greatly to achieve this! We are processing all our yarns on more than 3’000 winding positions in our mills having all optical yarn clearers from Loepfe from various generations. On all our yarn clearer systems, the activated Lab Pack quality assurance option and its bad bobbin detection is making sure that we can always deliver constant quality yarns to our customers.”

Spinning Review 100% Online quality assurance and detecting off-standard bobbins The philosophy of 100% online quality assurance in the winding process, introduced by Loepfe into the spinning mill world years ago, provides all relevant quality test characteristics except for tensile strength tests. Experienced spinning mill managers no longer rely on random samples! Even when a production lot was found good using time-consuming laboratory verifications, strikingly divergent off-standard bobbins give cause for complaint. These problems can be avoided with Loepfe’s Lab Pack quality assurance function, as it eliminates reliably off-standard bobbins from production and always keeps the yarn quality constant due to fixed and comprehensive clearing limits in a pre-set range.

Lab Pack online laboratory data needs data management At Xuzhou Huasheng Textile Co. Ltd., all the data from all the various yarn clearers from all winding machines is processed with Loepfe’s MillMaster TOP monitoring system. However, the fact that important yarn quality data such as hairiness, neppiness, general yarn surface irregularities and diameter variations, besides the normal yarn imperfections are made visible, a comprehensive quality monitoring and analysis is at the disposal for the customer. A very important advantage with basic yarn clearers unlocked with Lab Pack function such as

YarnMaster ZENIT+D, as the single optical infrared sensor is capable to monitor all these parameters without the necessity of an additional foreign fibre sensor! Only the Lab-Pack functionality and the simultaneous processing of all data generated by the yarn clearers with Loepfe's MillMaster TOP data management system complete the seamless quality monitoring. The edited quality reports are used to intervene in time in the spinning mill process. By analysing the quality reports, service and maintenance work can be optimized, which, apart from a constant quality, also results in cost savings. Final words of Mr. Zhang Yu Meng from Xuzhou Huasheng Textile Co. Ltd: “To push the automatization possibilities forward and to benefit from todays and future digital solutions are important parts of our corporate strategy. The MillMaster TOP monitoring system from Loepfe is connected to all our existing Loepfe yarn clearers, which are activated with the LabPack function on our Savio winding machines. This results that we always have reliable production and comprehensive quality data on 100% of our yarns available. We and ultimately our customers not only benefit from a constant yarn quality through this combination, but it also enables us to economically optimize processes and the use of raw materials. The company’s present and future success depends on the ability to embrace such technological possibilities!”

About Loepfe Loepfe Brothers Ltd. has established itself in the field of optical yarn clearers with pioneering achievements. Today Loepfe is recognized worldwide as the specialist for integral quality control systems. 50% of the worldwide yarn production is monitored by Loepfe yarn clearers. The Loepfe headquarters are in Wetzikon / Switzerland near Zurich. The company employs close to 150 people. The Swiss production location guarantees stability and reliability. All Loepfe products are developed and manufactured in Switzerland. Loepfe quality is based on the employees' unique knowhow and over 65 years of experience. Loepfe invests systematically in research and development of state-ofthe-art technology, with its understanding of the complex requirements of the textile industry. Loepfe lays the foundation for the international success of its textile quality assurance systems with sustainable products and highly personalized customer service. Loepfe is represented in all important textile markets via an international network of 90 agents and service representatives in 70 countries worldwide. Loepfe offers training and further education and ensures efficient local quality management at senior level.

Mr. Zhang Yu Meng, Xuzhou Huasheng Textile Co Ltd. China

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Archroma ..................................................................BC AVM Chemicals ...................................................6 & 64 Benninger....................................................................11 Chhipasons................................................................64 CCI USA.....................................................................1 Epson .........................................................................3 Fine Industries ..........................................................27 IGATEX Pakistan 2022...............................................IBC ICADEX Pakistan 2022...............................................51 ITMA Asia + Citme 2022 ...........................................13 ITM 2022 ..................................................................23 iTextiles .....................................................................21 Jet Logistics................................................................64 Rastgar.............................................................. 37 & 64 Established 1951 December 2021

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Annual Fact File 2021

January 2022

Apparel and Knitwear / Denim

Pakistan Textile Journal – February 2022

Articles inside

Vandewiele-Savio India Private Limited

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Trützschler: TCO 21: The next generation comber machine

How to prevent Fiber Rupture?

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Rieter: First information on the financial year 2021

Uster: Spinners know what they want

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