Available on Gale and Factiva affiliated international databases through Asianet Pakistan
Printed at: Color Plus Korangi, Karachi.
Published by Nadeem Mazhar from D-16, K.D.A. Scheme No.1. Karachi.
CORPORATE NEWS
Stäubli at SITEX . . .
Apprentices’ special commitment honored by the Trützschler Foundation, ROCKID.one and Mayor of Mönchengladbach, Felix Heinrichs
Water saving & Savio
Italian textile machinery: 2nd quarter 2023 drop in order intake
.23
Asahi Kasei joins the Japan Hydrogen Forum to support decarbonization in the U.S. .24 Better Cotton and Cotton Egypt Association Celebrate renewal of strategic partnership at multi-stakeholder event in Cairo
FAIRS AND EXHIBITION
INDEX™ 26 chooses May dates to avoid conflict
June dates announced for next year’s Intertextile Shenzhen
Textile Asia International Exhibition and Conferences 2024: Elevating Global Textile Excellence
ITM 2024 visitor invitation system is online!
DYES AND CHEMICALS
DyStar launches Eco-Advanced Indigo Dyeing
Archroma showcases Planet Conscious Super Systems+ at Colombiatex 2024 . . .33
End-to-end solutions that deliver resource savings, cleaner chemistries and outstanding durability for denim, cotton knits and polyester-cotton blends
FEATURES
Naia™ from Eastman brings circularity at Heimtextil . .
.34
Trust Protocol enrollment, climate smart cotton program applications now open .35
APPAREL AND KNITWEAR
Knitwear sector, a mainstay in textile industry
Readymade Garments: A flourishing sector within the textile industry yet in trouble .38 by Nadeem Mazhar, Managing Editor, Pakistan Textile Journal.
Classic Denim Fabrics can be Sustainable: how to upgrade existing rope dyeing ranges with a double operational system
Jeanologia transforms denim design with the newest version of eDesigner .
.42
Lenzing unveils the new potential of TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers as alternative material for stretch fabrics
Knitwear Lab relies on top creative performance and the CREATE patterning software .45 Kent State University School of Fashion relies on CREATE PLUS for more fun and efficiency in learning
Online Knitted Fabric Defect Detection based on AI
By Dr. Tanveer Hussain
Cone Denim x AMK Atelier x Tonello launch collaborative collection at Kingpins Amsterdam
Santoni finalizes acquisition of Terrot, a pivotal realignment of the circular knitting machine industry
KARL MAYER successfully launches the TM 4 EL in the four-bar high-speed allrounder tricot market
Innovation partnership Speidel and Mayer & Cie delighted by the idea of receiving live images of a fabric during the production process
SHIMA SEIKI to Exhibit at Pitti Filati 94
Transforming Threads: Paving the Way for Innovation in Pakistan's Textile Industry
In the ever-evolving landscape of the global textile industry, Pakistan stands at a crucial crossroads. Challenges abound, from rising production costs to increasing competition. However, in the face of adversity, the key to unlocking new possibilities lies in embracing innovation. The year 2023 presents a unique opportunity for Pakistan's textile sector to undergo a transformative journey, redefining its strategies and securing a sustainable future.
R&D Investments for Cutting-Edge Solutions Pakistan's textile industry must prioritize significant investments in research and development. By fostering a culture of innovation, we can unlock the potential for groundbreaking technologies, materials, and processes. Collaborations with research institutions and universities will be pivotal in propelling the industry into a new era of competitiveness.
Tech integration for operational excellence the adoption of advanced manufacturing technologies is no longer a luxury but a necessity. Automation, robotics, and artificial intelligence can revolutionize production processes, enhance efficiency, and mitigate rising operational costs. Smart factories equipped with digital solutions for supply chain management and production planning will be the backbone of a modernized industry.
Skills development to navigate the future as technologies evolve, so must the skills of the workforce. Investment in comprehensive training programs is imperative to equip employees with the expertise required to operate and maintain cutting-edge technologies. Collaborations with educational institutions will ensure that the industry has a pipeline of skilled professionals ready to face the challenges of the future.
Sustainability as a cornerstone the textile industry must pivot towards sustainability to meet global standards and consumer expectations. Innovations in eco-friendly manufacturing processes, water recycling, and waste reduction will not only reduce the industry's environmental footprint but also open doors to markets that prioritize sustainability.
Diversification and digitalization for market expansion to overcome dependency on specific markets and products, diversification is key. Exploring new markets and embracing e-commerce platforms will provide the industry with the reach it needs. Digitalization of processes, from design to delivery, will streamline operations and enhance competitiveness in the global market.
Government as a catalyst for change advocacy for policies that incentivize innovation is crucial. The government should consider offering tax breaks for R&D investments, subsidies for technology adoption, and a regulatory framework that supports industry evolution. Collaboration between the private sector and government entities will create an environment conducive to innovation.
Collaborative Industry Networks collaboration within the industry is paramount. The sharing of best practices, knowledge, and innovations will accelerate progress. Partnerships with international organizations and businesses will facilitate access to global markets and technologies, fostering a collective journey towards success.
Conclusion the year 2023 is a pivotal moment for Pakistan's textile industry. By embracing innovation, the sector can not only overcome existing challenges but also position itself as a global leader. The transformation will require concerted efforts from all stakeholders – from industry players to policymakers. Together, they can weave a narrative of resilience, adaptability, and success, ensuring a vibrant and sustainable future for Pakistan's textile industry.
January 2024
1
In December, merchandise exports experienced a fourth consecutive month of growth, reaching an 18month high and signalling a recovery in export-led industrial expansion. According to data released by the Pakistan Bureau of Statistics, export proceeds for the month totalled $2.82 billion, marking a 22.21% increase from the same period last year, which was $2.30 billion.
2
Hussain Haider, the Consul General of Pakistan in Shanghai, led a delegation to Shengze Oriental Textile City in Suzhou, China, where they engaged with representatives from local textile enterprises. During the meeting, Haider provided an overview of the trade and investment landscape in both Pakistan and China, emphasizing the pref-
erential policies accessible to Chinese investors in Pakistan.
3
The Sindh Community Foundation (SCF) has initiated a literacy and off-season poverty reduction program. With the support of the Asian Venture Philanthropy Network, this program aims to empower and uplift women engaged in the crucial but often overlooked role of cotton picking in the textile industry. Over the next two years, SCF plans to implement a comprehensive literacy program for female cotton workers in 30 villages of the Matiari district.
4
The Sindh High Court (SHC) took a significant step earlier this month by suspending the gas tariff hike notification specifically for the textile industry. This move came in response to a notification issued by the Oil
Textile Briefs International
1
Bangladesh's knitwear garment exports to the EU surpassed China's for the first time during the January-September 2023 period. This surge was notable in both the value and volume of exports. According to Eurostat figures, Bangladesh's knitwear garment exports to the EU reached $9 billion in the nine-month period, outpacing China's $8.96 billion in exports. Faruque Hassan, President of BGMEA, attributes Bangladesh's success to the export of higher valueadded garment items, particularly activewear.
2
The Cotton Association of India (CAI) has projected a potential 8% decline in cotton production for the 2023-24 season, bringing it down to 294.10
and Gas Regulatory Authority (OGRA) regarding an increase in gas tariff for the textile sector. In a pivotal decision, the SHC provided interim relief to the plaintiffs, primarily textile manufacturers, by temporarily halting the implementation of the controversial notification. 5Recent data from the Pakistan Cotton Ginner’s Association (PCGA) reveals a welcome uptick of 1.8% in cotton arrival in Pakistan as of December 31, 2023, compared to figures on December 15, 2023. The total cotton arrival now stands at 8.171 million bales, reflecting a notable increase from the 8.024 million bales recorded earlier in December.
6
The All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) urged the government to address the significant increase in power
tariffs over the past year, which poses a threat to jobs and economic stability. The APTMA highlighted that the high-power tariffs have led to a 50% decrease in industrial power consumption and a 26% fall in overall power generation in the country since July 2022.
7
The Punjab Skills Development Fund (PSDF) and the Export Development Fund (EDF) have successfully trained 2,400 workers for the textile value-added sector, aiming to enhance Pakistan's exports and stimulate economic growth, as per a statement released earlier this month. The PSDF announced that 50 percent of the graduates from this training program, which focused on the production of readymade garments and knitwear, would be offered employment.
lakh bales. This forecast is attributed to diminished yields in major growing regions. In the preceding season (2022-23, OctoberSeptember), the total cotton production reached 318.90 lakh bales of 170 kg each, as per CAI data.
3
The Indonesian textile and apparel sector faced continued worker redundancies as Semarang city, housing two textile factories, laid off thousands of workers in December. The Confederation of Indonesian Workers’ Unions (KSPN) reported that around 12,000 workers lost their jobs in the country's textile and garment industry in 2023. This figure only includes KSPN member workers and excludes nonmembers.
4
According to the recent report of Confindustria Moda, representing 150,000 manufacturing and service companies in Italy's fashion sector, has released data revealing a growth in turnover compared to 2022, reaching 111.7 billion euros.
5
In Türkiye, the textile industry, one of the most value-added sectors in exports, is intensifying its efforts to enhance sustainable exports in the Aegean Region. The 'Development of Sustainable Competitiveness in the Textile Sector' URGE project, led by the Aegean Textile and Raw Materials Exporters' Association (ETHİB) with the support of the Ministry of Trade, aims to enhance the capacities of 18 member companies within the sustainability theme.
6
The Vietnamese manufacturing sector faced a challenging scenario, marked by a recorded figure of 48.9 in December's S&P Global manufacturing purchasing managers' index (PMI). This signaled a continuous decline in business conditions, with the PMI persistently staying below the critical threshold of 50 for the fourth straight month.
7
During the first 11 months of 2023, Uzbekistan faced a 3.3% decline in textile exports, amounting to a total of $2.8 billion, as reported by the Statistics Agency under the President of the Republic of Uzbekistan. The country exported 21,800 tons of textile products to 16 countries, generating $102.9 million in the initial four months of 2023 alone.
Merchandise exports grew for the fourth consecutive month in the month of December
In December, merchandise exports experienced a fourth consecutive month of growth, reaching an 18-month high and signalling a recovery in export-led industrial expansion. According to data released by the Pakistan Bureau of Statistics, export proceeds for the month totalled $2.82 billion, marking a 22.21% increase from the same period last year, which was $2.30 billion.
On a month-on-month basis, export proceeds grew by 9.29%. "The export of goods in the first half of FY24 rose by 5.17% to $14.98 billion, compared to $14.24 billion in the corresponding period of the previous year," the statistics revealed.
The sustained upward trend in export proceeds for December suggests a rebound in the textile and clothing sectors, which are now securing orders from global clients after a year of downturn. Caretaker Commerce Minister Gohar Ejaz noted that December 2023 exports amounted to $2.8 billion, falling short of the $3 billion potential. He expressed optimism about reaching and exceeding this capacity soon, aiming for export-led development to reach $8 billion per month through a new policy
under the Special Investment Facilitation Council (SIFC) framework.
"The commerce ministry is committed to strengthening Pakistan's export potential and fostering an environment for sustainable economic growth," Mr. Gohar emphasized. Preliminary reports indicate that the overall increase in export value is primarily driven by semi-finished goods in the textile sector, while valueadded garment exports remain negative. In the non-textile sector, food goods, particularly rice and beef, have experienced remarkable increases in export earnings.
The commerce ministry is yet to unveil a strategic framework aimed at providing regional competitive energy pricing, working capital support, speedy refund payments, enhanced market access, and product diversification.
In contrast, imports declined by 12.25% to $4.52 billion in December from $5.14 billion in the same month the previous year, continuing a trend of negative growth in imports. On a monthon-month basis, imports decreased by 0.55%. "The import bill for JulyDecember FY24 fell by 16.28% to $26.13 billion from $31.21 billion during the corresponding months in the previous year," the minister highlighted.
For FY23, imports declined by 31% to $55.29 billion from $80.13 billion in
FY22. The government set an import target of $58.69 billion for FY24, projecting an increase of $3.4 billion or 8.14% compared to FY23's $55.29 billion.
"During July-December FY24, the trade deficit narrowed by 34.29% to $11.14 billion from $19.96 billion in the corresponding months of the previous year," he continued. In December alone, the trade deficit contracted by 40.13% to $1.70 billion from $2.84 billion in the same month the previous year.
Pakistani Delegations explored the opportunities in textile collaborations at Shengze Oriental Textile City, China
Hussain Haider, the Consul General of Pakistan in Shanghai, led a delegation to Shengze Oriental Textile City in Suzhou, China, where they engaged with representatives from local textile enterprises.
During the meeting, Haider provided an overview of the trade and investment landscape in both Pakistan and China, emphasizing the preferential policies accessible to Chinese investors in Pakistan. He highlighted that Pakistan's current textile exports to China predominantly include cotton yarn,
apparel, cotton fabrics, and home textiles, with cotton yarn constituting 73% of the total exports.
Expressing a keen interest in fostering extensive collaboration with Shengze's silk and textile industry cluster, Haider extended an invitation to Shengze's enterprises to explore Pakistan firsthand and gain insights into the prevailing trade and investment policies.
Shengze is renowned for its thriving silk and textile industry, boasting a rich historical background. The delegation, seeking to comprehend the intricacies of the textile sector and explore potential partnerships, conducted a tour of various textile enterprises within Shengze Oriental Textile City, resulting in preliminary cooperation intentions.
Haider articulated, “We aspire to deepen our engagement with Shengze Oriental Textile City. We earnestly invite Shengze’s enterprises to invest and establish factories in Pakistan, aiming for mutual benefits and contributing to the strengthening of China-Pakistan cooperation.”
Simultaneously, the third Science and Technology Exchange Conference on China-Pakistan Tropical Arid Non-wood Forest is being held both online and offline from November 26 to 28 in Zhengzhou, China, and Gwadar, Pakistan. The exchange conference aims to showcase achievements and research progress of both nations in the field of economic forestry, with a particular focus on academic exchanges of woody medicinal herbs and active substances between China and Pakistan.
Co-hosted by the Chinese Society of Forestry (CSF) and Central South University of Forestry and Technology (CSUFT), the event drew over 220 officials, scholars, students, and business representatives from both countries. In 2021, CSUFT, China Overseas Port Holding Company, and Yulin Holdings collaborated to establish an Engineering Research Centre for Tropical Arid Nonwood Forest.
The
Sindh Community Foundation (SCF) commence initiatives to help women cotton pickers earn money in off-season
Javed Hussain, the Executive Director of SCF, emphasized the pivotal roles played by women cotton workers in the textile sector while highlighting the challenging working and socio-economic conditions they often face. He noted that the lack of literacy among these workers contributes to their exploitation, with only 10% of female cotton workers having received primary education.
Over the next two years, SCF plans to implement a comprehensive literacy program for female cotton workers in 30 villages of the Matiari district. In the first year, 15 Suhaee Centers (Suhaee meaning light in Sindhi) have been established in different villages, providing basic literacy education to 525 women cotton workers through informal education modules.
The Sindh Community Foundation (SCF) has initiated a literacy and offseason poverty reduction program. With the support of the Asian Venture Philanthropy Network, this program aims to empower and uplift women engaged in the crucial but often overlooked role of cotton picking in the textile industry.
Hussain pointed out that cotton picking is a seasonal job lasting four to six months, mainly carried out by women workers who often face poverty during the off-season. As part of the program, women in these centers will receive income generation training and seed support to initiate small-scale incomegenerating activities. The training will cover various aspects, including running small businesses such as milk production and home-based agro-food security solutions.
The off-season income generation skills training is expected to enable women cotton pickers to engage in economic activities for a decent livelihood
even in the off-seasons. Hussain stressed that the project will also focus on raising awareness among these workers regarding occupational safety, decent working conditions, and climate change adaptation.
The Sindh High Court (SHC) suspend gas tariff hike notification specifically for the textile industry
The Sindh High Court (SHC) took a significant step earlier this month by suspending the gas tariff hike notification specifically for the textile industry. This move came in response to a notification issued by the Oil and Gas Regulatory Authority (OGRA) regarding an increase in gas tariff for the textile sector.
In a pivotal decision, the SHC provided interim relief to the plaintiffs, primarily textile manufacturers, by temporarily halting the implementation of the controversial notification. However, this relief is contingent upon the plaintiffs depositing a specified differential amount with the court's Nazir within seven days.
The court's order specifically directed the Sui Southern Gas Company (SSGC) to issue monthly gas bills to the plaintiffs (textile manufacturers) at the rates prevailing before the issuance of the contested notification.
Moreover, the order outlined a clear protocol: failure to make payments for two consecutive months would lead to the suspension of the interim order for any plaintiff failing to comply. It explicitly stated that any payments made to the Nazir would be subject to the final outcome of the injunction application.
To ensure compliance and a smooth process, the industrialists were instructed to diligently pay their monthly bills. The order also contained a specific directive for the defendant-SSGC to issue separate bills or clearly specify amounts, distinguishing the differential amount to be deposited with the Nazir from the amounts to be paid directly to the defendants. This nuanced approach aims to address the concerns of both the textile industry and the regulatory authority in a fair and equitable manner.
Latest PCGA data shows 1.8% growth in Cotton arrival during the month of December
Recent data from the Pakistan Cotton Ginner’s Association (PCGA) reveals a welcome uptick of 1.8% in cotton arrival in Pakistan as of December 31, 2023, compared to figures on December 15, 2023. The total cotton arrival now stands at 8.171 million bales, reflecting a
notable increase from the 8.024 million bales recorded earlier in December.
On a year-on-year basis, the surge is even more pronounced, exceeding 77%, a marked improvement from the 4.612 million bales registered on December 31, 2022. This positive development follows the challenges faced in the previous year due to flash floods, causing a 34% yearon-year decline in cotton crop production.
The increase in cotton arrival, a key raw material for the textile sector, is particularly significant for Pakistan, grappling with economic difficulties. The textile industry, a cornerstone of Pakistan’s exports, has been affected by diminishing demand and economic uncertainties.
In response to these challenges, the All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) has urged the government to reduce power tariffs to a competitive level of 9-10 cents/kWh, making Pakistani exports more competitive globally. The association emphasized the urgency of reforms, with caretaker Federal Minister for Energy, Muhammad Ali, called upon to expedite the process.
Breaking down the figures by province, both Punjab and Sindh have reported substantial increases in cotton arrival. Punjab, with cotton arrival at 4.078 million bales, has witnessed a 3% rise compared to figures on December 15, 2023, and a significant 47.66% surge on a yearly basis. Meanwhile, cotton arrival in Sindh was 4.092 million bales compared to 4.067 million bales recorded on December 15, an increase of 0.025
million bales or 0.6%. However, the YoY increase was more pronounced in Sindh, as cotton arrivals jumped by 121.2% as compared to 1.850 million bales registered in the same period last year
APTMA urges the government to address the significant increase in power tariffs over the past year
The All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) urged the government to address the significant increase in power tariffs over the past year, which poses a threat to jobs and economic stability. The APTMA highlighted that the high-power tariffs have led to a 50% decrease in industrial power consumption and a 26% fall in overall power generation in the country since July 2022.
Kamran Arshad, Chairman APTMA North, expressed concern about the sustainability and debt-ridden status of the power sector, emphasizing that further losses would be incurred if industrial activity continued to decline. He warned of additional tariff increases planned for January 2023, which could result in severe consequences for the industry, including millions of job losses.
Arshad emphasized the urgent need for the government to revise power tariffs, making them competitive for the export-oriented industry. He pointed out that power consumption for APTMA member-firms had significantly decreased, attributing it to the unsustainable levels of power tariffs. The decline in power consumption has direct repercussions for both industrial and residential consumers, making demand increasingly elastic to prices.
The APTMA chairman highlighted the regional competition faced by the textile industry, citing countries like Bangladesh, Vietnam, and India where power tariffs are substantially lower. He argued that the economic inefficiencies in power tariffs, such as cross subsidies and stranded costs, cannot be passed on to international consumers, rendering Pakistan's exports uncompetitive.
Arshad underscored the serious implications of the current power tariff policies, creating a vicious cycle of declining consumption leading to further
tariff hikes. He urged the government to review power tariff policies to prevent economic deterioration and job losses. The APTMA called for a rational reassessment of power tariffs to stimulate industrial activities, increase power consumption, and create a sustainable power sector. The association urged the government to follow the example of the Federal Minister for Energy, Muhammad Ali, who has initiated a reform process to restructure the power sector. Senior APTMA officials, including Asad Shafi, Ch. Mohammad Ali, and Mohammad Raza Baqir, were present at the press conference.
PSDF and EDF collaborate to train 2,400 Workers for Textile Value Added
Sector
The Punjab Skills Development Fund (PSDF) and the Export Development Fund (EDF) have successfully trained 2,400 workers for the textile value-added sector, aiming to enhance Pakistan's exports and stimulate economic growth, as per a statement released earlier this month.
The PSDF announced that 50 percent of the graduates from this training program, which focused on the production of readymade garments and knitwear, would be offered employment opportunities within the textile industry.
Recognizing the significance of the textile sector, which constitutes 46
percent of Pakistan's manufacturing sector and employs 40 percent of the labor force, this initiative seeks to fortify Pakistan's position as the fourth largest producer and third largest consumer of cotton globally, and the eighth largest exporter of textile products in Asia.
According to the Board of Investment (BOI), textile exports contributed approximately 60 percent to Pakistan's total exports in the fiscal year 2021, reaching $17.67 billion, marking a substantial 28 percent increase from the previous year.
Launched in 2023, the "Export Growth Program in the Readymade Garments and Knitwear Industry" by PSDF and EDF aims to train 6,500 workers in its inaugural year. The project, financed by the EDF, emphasizes inclusivity by targeting 20 percent female trainees, thereby promoting diversity in a traditionally male-dominated industry.
The training program provides handson practical experience tailored to industry requirements, ensuring that graduates are well-equipped to tackle the challenges of the workforce.
PSDF and EDF expressed that this initiative is a testament to their commitment to harnessing the potential of a skilled workforce, playing a pivotal role in sustaining Pakistan's success in the global textile market. The collaboration aligns with broader efforts to strengthen the textile industry, a cornerstone of Pakistan's economic prosperity.
BANGLADESH
Bangladesh surpasses China in knitwear exports to EU
Bangladesh's knitwear garment exports to the EU surpassed China's for the first time during the JanuarySeptember 2023 period. This surge was notable in both the value and volume of exports.
According to Eurostat figures, Bangladesh's knitwear garment exports to the EU reached US$9 billion in the nine-month period, outpacing China's $8.96 billion in exports.
Faruque Hassan, President of BGMEA, attributes Bangladesh's success to the export of higher value-added garment items, particularly activewear.
However, on a year-on-year basis, Bangladesh's knitwear exports to the EU witnessed a decline of 20.94%, attributed to slackening demand and rising inflation rates in the EU.
The knitwear sector in the EU experienced a 17.71% decline in imports, totaling Euro 31.94 billion during the January-September period compared to the previous year, according to Eurostat data. The region also saw a 17.66% yearon-year decrease in apparel imports, amounting to Euro13.69 billion, due to sluggish demand for apparel products.
Faruque Hassan advises the industry to focus on non-cotton-based athleisure items for future exports while remaining committed to responsible and sustainable manufacturing, setting a global example.
Fazlee Shamim Ehsan, Vice President of BKMEA, attributes Bangladesh's rise as a leading exporter to China's shift away from low-end products and Bangladesh's successful establishment of strong backward linkages.
Despite a 23.33% year-on-year decline to US$5.78 billion in apparel exports to the United States, Hassan notes that the country continues to outperform its competitors. He attributes the recent slowdown to a gloomy global economic outlook, predicting a challenging year for the apparel trade in 2023.
CHINA
Chinese Home Textile exports reached a total of US$ 30.09 billion during the first 11 months of 2023
In a report released by the home textile division of the China Chamber of Commerce for Import and Export of Textile Products, Chinese home textile exports for the first 11 months of 2023 reached a total of US$30.09 billion.
The data underscores the resilience of the home textile industry, which, despite facing pressures, has demonstrated remarkable stability and growth. The report highlights the efforts of Chinese home textile companies in accelerating their overseas market strategies and delivering products of exceptional quality and innovative design concepts.
"Under the challenging circumstances and weakening overall textile and clothing exports in 2023, the export performance of home textiles remains the most stable among all major categories of textile and garment products," stated the China Chamber of Commerce.
During the January to November 2023 period, several major product categories showed positive growth or only a slight decline, emphasizing the sector's robust performance. Bedding products saw exports totaling $12.72 billion, experiencing a marginal year-onyear decrease of 1.5 percent. Blanket exports amounted to $4.08 billion, showing a slight decline of 0.3 percent.
Noteworthy increases were observed in the exports of carpets, reaching $3.66 billion, indicating a growth of 4.6 percent. Kitchen textiles demonstrated an impressive increase of 8.4 percent, with exports totaling $2.67 billion. Curtain
exports, while experiencing a slight decrease of 1.6 percent at $2.59 billion, remained resilient.
The only category witnessing a significant drop was towel exports, which amounted to $2.01 billion, showing a year-on-year decrease of 7.8 percent. On the positive side, tablecloth exports experienced an increase of 3.8 percent, totaling $730 million.
INDIA
India’s cotton production projected to decline by 8% to 29.4 Mn bales in 2024
The Cotton Association of India (CAI) has projected a potential 8% decline in cotton production for the 2023-24 season, bringing it down to 294.10 lakh bales. This forecast is attributed to diminished yields in major growing regions. In the preceding season (202223, October-September), the total cotton production reached 318.90 lakh bales of 170 kg each, as per CAI data.
CAI President Atul Ganatra conveyed that the expected reduction in production for the current year is approximately 24.8 lakh bales, reaching 294.10 lakh bales. This decline is attributed to pink bollworm infestation in the northern region and adverse effects on yield in the southern and central regions due to a 45-day period without rainfall from August 1 to September 15.
As of the end of November 2023, the total cotton supply is estimated at 92.05 lakh bales, encompassing arrivals of 60.15 lakh bales, imports of 3 lakh bales, and an opening stock of 28.90 lakh bales at the commencement of the season.
CAI's estimates for cotton consumption until the end of November 2023 stand at 53 lakh bales, while export shipments up to November 30 are projected at 3 lakh bales. The estimated stock at the end of November is 36.05 lakh bales, with 27 lakh bales held by textile mills and the remaining 9.05 lakh bales distributed among CCI, Maharashtra Federation, and others, which includes cotton sold but not yet delivered.
CAI maintains the total cotton supply projection for the entire 2023-24 season
(until September 30, 2024) at 345 lakh bales. This supply comprises the opening stock of 28.90 lakh bales at the beginning of the season, estimated cotton pressing of 294.10 lakh bales, and anticipated imports for the season amounting to 22 lakh bales.
The CAI anticipates a higher import figure of 9.50 lakh bales for the season compared to the previous year, attributing this increase to the lower production estimates. The export estimate for the 2023-24 season remains consistent with the previous year, projected at 14 lakh bales compared to 15.50 lakh bales in the 2022-23 season.
INDONESIA
Indonesian textile and garment workers continue to suffer from mass layoffs
The Indonesian textile and apparel sector faced continued worker redundancies as Semarang city, housing two textile factories, laid off thousands of workers in December. The Confederation of Indonesian Workers’ Unions (KSPN) reported that around 12,000 workers lost their jobs in the country's textile and garment industry in 2023. This figure only includes KSPN member workers and excludes non-members.
Ristadi, the President of KSPN, highlighted that the primary factor
behind the wave of layoffs was the influx of imported products, severely impacting the domestic industry. He also noted that export-oriented companies faced challenges due to a slowdown in global market demand, putting pressure on the overall economy.
Ristadi stressed the need for concrete and immediate government intervention to support labor-intensive industries like textiles and garments. He called for measures to control and restrict both legal and illegal imports, along with financial assistance for modernizing textile machinery. Additionally, he suggested implementing friendlier banking and tax policies and assisting the industry in exploring non-traditional markets to maintain export momentum.
The union leader expressed optimism that, with the right support, the industry could recover and contribute significantly to Indonesia's economic growth.
ITALY
Despite the ongoing challenges, Italy’s textile and fashion sector witnessed a 3% growth
According to the recent report of Confindustria Moda, representing 150,000 manufacturing and service companies in Italy's fashion sector, has released data revealing a growth in
Around the World
turnover compared to 2022, reaching 111.7 billion euros. However, this growth is solely attributed to higher sales values, as there is a noticeable decline in volumes, signaling a potential end to the post-pandemic economic rebound. The association expresses concern about this shift, casting a shadow on expectations for 2024.
Despite the revenue growth, the sector faces challenges such as reduced profit margins due to rising energy and raw material costs, not offset by downstream price increases. Looking ahead to 2024, there is optimism that energy costs may return to pre-Covid levels, but uncertainties persist regarding the trajectory of raw material costs.
In terms of exports, the sector experienced a 5.1 percent increase in the first eight months of 2023 compared to the same period in the previous year, totaling 54.5 billion euros.
The European Union accounted for 47 percent of the exports, while non-EU regions covered 53 percent of sales. Notably, attention is focused on China, where Confindustria Moda anticipates a shift in trade dynamics favoring domestic products over imports.
Ercole Botto Poala, President of Confindustria Moda, acknowledges the challenges posed by global instability, geopolitical shifts, and production cost increases. Despite the industry's resilience, he emphasizes the importance of collaborative efforts to address shared needs in training, sustainability, and innovation, preparing for the sector's future challenges.
TÜRKIYE
Textile sector in the Aegean prepares for integration with the European Union
In Türkiye, the textile industry, one of the most value-added sectors in exports, is intensifying its efforts to enhance sustainable exports in the
Aegean Region. The 'Development of Sustainable Competitiveness in the Textile Sector' URGE project, led by the Aegean Textile and Raw Materials Exporters' Association (ETHİB) with the support of the Ministry of Trade, aims to enhance the capacities of 18 member companies within the sustainability theme.
Jak Eskinazi, Coordinator Chairman of the Aegean Exporters' Associations, mentioned that the 'Development of Sustainable Competitiveness in the Textile Sector' URGE project, initiated in 2021, is planned to conclude in 2024. Consultancy services on various issues related to sustainability have been provided to 18 member companies within the project. Eskinazi highlighted that the textile industry has an intensive sustainability agenda, and the project addresses areas such as energy efficiency, combating climate change, environmental management, and life cycle assessment.
He mentioned that the Corporate Carbon Footprint consultancy service,
focused on determining a low or zero carbon strategy, is followed by Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) consultancy, which started in October 2023.
The LCA service aims to assess the product life cycle from cradle to grave, comparing, calculating, and reporting the environmental impact of products. Eskinazi emphasized the importance of being prepared for the European Union Green Deal and other sustainabilityrelated developments in global markets.
Eskinazi also noted that the textile industry is actively engaging with sustainability practices and preparations for the climate challenge. He highlighted the critical role of the next six years in addressing global warming and achieving renewable energy targets.
Eskinazi mentioned the challenges faced by many countries in meeting their renewable energy goals and the significance of commitments under initiatives like the Green Deal.
Jak Eskinazi, Coordinator Chairman of the Aegean Exporters' Associations,
VIETNAM
The Vietnamese manufacturing sector continues to see decline in new orders
The Vietnamese manufacturing sector faced a challenging scenario, marked by a recorded figure of 48.9 in December's S&P Global manufacturing purchasing managers' index (PMI). This signaled a continuous decline in business conditions, with the PMI persistently staying below the critical threshold of 50 for the fourth straight month.
A glimmer of optimism emerged as the index slightly improved from November's 47.3, indicating a less severe rate of deterioration. Throughout the majority of 2023, the sector grappled with a downturn, experiencing brief respite only in February and August. Notably, the average PMI for the year hit its lowest point since the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic in 2020.
Reflecting a subdued demand environment, operating conditions witnessed a decline, with total new orders experiencing a second consecutive monthly drop in December. Although the reduction eased compared to November, the stabilization of new export orders was noted by S&P Global.
Anecdotal evidence hinted that recent price hikes had dissuaded customers, contributing to the decline in new orders. Responding to these signals, manufacturers cautiously adjusted selling prices at the year's end, implementing only fractional increases, the least extensive in the current five-month sequence of inflation.
This modest rise in selling prices contrasted sharply with the substantial increase in input costs, which continued to surge significantly, maintaining a pace similar to the nine-month high observed in November.
Amid a challenging demand environment leading to declining new orders, manufacturers once again reduced production volumes in December, extending the ongoing fourmonth sequence of decline.
Firms foresaw an expansion in output throughout 2024, buoyed by hopes for a recovery in both domestic and export
demand, alongside planned business expansions. Despite sentiment reaching a three-month high, it remained below the series average.
The anticipation of output growth in 2024 prompted firms to maintain overall stability in employment and purchasing activity in December, despite the dwindling new orders. This stability marked an improvement from modest reductions seen in November. However, stocks of inputs saw a fourth consecutive reduction.
A lack of demand for inputs and fierce competition among suppliers resulted in shortened lead times for the delivery of purchased items. Nevertheless, this improvement was marginal.
Stocks of finished goods remained static in December after a three-month decline until November. Some firms observed an increase in stocks of unsold products due to declining new orders, prompting others to scale back production to avoid inventory buildup. Meanwhile, backlogs of work increased for the first time in a year, reaching the highest point since May 2022.
UZBEKISTAN
Uzbekistan faced a 3.3% decline in the textile exports on YoY basis
During the first 11 months of 2023, Uzbekistan faced a 3.3% decline in textile exports, amounting to a total of $2.8 billion, as reported by the Statistics Agency under the President of the
Republic of Uzbekistan. The country exported 21,800 tons of textile products to 16 countries, generating $102.9 million in the initial four months of 2023 alone.
The majority of textile exports comprised finished textile products, accounting for 41.3% of the total, and yarn, constituting 40.7%. Uzbekistan shipped 626 different types of textile products to 63 countries worldwide.
Despite the overall decrease in exports, Uzbekistan's textile industry remains resilient. Between January and September 2023, exports of textiles, particularly yarn, reached $945 million, while exports of clothing and other finished textile products amounted to $967.5 million. Despite the challenges, the industry's export value is projected to reach $5 billion by the end of 2023.
The global downturn in demand for ready-to-wear apparel and garments has contributed to the decline in exports of both yarn and fabric in 2023, continuing a trend observed in 2022. Despite a slight reduction in the harvested area due to the government's land redistribution policy, cotton production is expected to stay robust, supported by ongoing investments in planting, harvesting, and processing cotton.
The Ministry of Economy and Finance of Uzbekistan's decision not to enforce a minimum price for raw cotton in 2023 may have influenced the export figures. Despite these challenges, Uzbekistan's economy is poised for growth, with projected state budget revenues of UZS 233.6 trillion ($18.9 billion).
Stäubli at SITEX
SITEX trade fair will be held at the Surat International Exhibition and Convention Centre (SIECC) in Surat, India from 6-8 January 2024. As at last year’s successful edition, Stäubli will again be showcasing its state-of-the-art technology for efficient weaving. The company’s machinery range covers the entire spectrum of yarn types to be woven and includes a wide array of dedicated solutions for processing synthetic fibres, which are very important in the Surat region. Visitors to the trade fair are invited to stop by Booth 256 to gain a good overview of Stäubli’s wide range of solutions and discover the latest developments in high-performance weaving technology.
Stäubli is a leading global supplier of Jacquard technology. Indian mills rely on the company’s solutions for weaving all sorts of Jacquard fabrics, from home textiles to technical fabrics, narrow to large-format applications, and apparel fabrics, including saris. It’s difficult to imagine a Jacquard weaving mill without a solution by Stäubli. Stäubli Jacquard machines have become a central element in mills that demand high productivity and top quality because they deliver a broad range of decisive benefit such as top energy efficiency and unsurpassed production speeds. Introduced at India ITME in December 2022, the LX PRO
Jacquard machine is now in operation in many weaving mills around the world. It is equipped with the Stäubli TC8 controller, NOEMI electronics architecture for unmatched reliability in data transmission, and MX PRO modules – a combination of components that delivers significant energy savings.
High-speed frame-weaving solutions for any application
Whether using rapier, air-jet, or water-jet weaving machines, mills can choose from a wide range of Stäubli dobbies, including the S3000 / S3200 electronic rotary dobby series, or Stäubli cam motions like the S1600 / S1700 series. Visitors to the Stäubli booth will observe the renowned S1692 cam motion, which handles up to 8 lifting units. It can weave a wide variety of applications and has been installed in numerous mills around the globe. Observing such machines in action gives a very good idea of the operational speed and performance that can be achieved. These dobbies and cam motions can be operated with the latest generation of e32/33 transmissions, which offer benefits like reduced time and cost of maintenance thanks to maintenance-free bearings and other engineering features. These machines and transmissions promise long service life so mills can plan on long years of efficient production.
Automated weaving preparation solutions from Stäubli – the pioneering leader
Stäubli began focusing on the challenges of high quality in style and warp changes decades ago. The Group’s R&D specialists, field engineers, technicians, and sales personnel collaborate closely with weaving mills to constantly perfect the company’s range of tying machines and SAFIR automatic drawing-in machines, as with the previous DELTA range. Currently offering three tying machines, the TOPMATIC, TIEPRO, and MAGMA, Stäubli covers the tying process for an extensive range of yarn types, from the finest yarns to coarse yarns and even PP tapes. Stäubli tying machines have become essential equipment in modern weaving mills that insist on top quality.
The Stäubli booth at SITEX presents a perfect opportunity to delve into the world of Stäubli original automation solutions that support a smooth downstream weaving process. Visitors should be sure not to miss the SAFIR S32 automatic drawing-in machine for filament warps. It is equipped with unique Stäubli AWC 2.0 technology, including double-end detection as a standard feature. The optional AWC 2.0 layer & offset management function allows the processing of complex repeats
LX PRO Jacquard machine
and double layers. Full of ingenious new features, this automation solution is an ideal way to improve the efficiency of style changes and streamline the mill’s downstream weaving process.
About the Stäubli Group / Stäubli Textile / Stäubli India
Stäubli is a global mechatronics solutions provider with four divisions: Electrical Connectors, Fluid Connectors, Robotics, and Textile. The Stäubli Group is based in Switzerland, with a presence in 29 countries. The global workforce of more than 5,700 shares a commitment to partnering with customers in nearly every industry to provide comprehensive solutions with long-term support.
Stäubli Textile has been developing and producing high-quality systems for the global weaving industry for over 130 years. The importance of the Indian market impelled the Stäubli Group to establish its own subsidiary in India, following several decades of representation by a local agent. Stäubli
India was established in 1993 and has since become a major supplier the Indian textile industry. The head office, with showroom and training facility, is located in the heart of Mumbai. Stäubli not only provides machinery but ensures optimal availability by providing maintenance services, training, consultation, and original spare parts. In order to deliver
these services rapidly and conveniently, Stäubli has local after-sales technicians present in various areas of India including South India, Central MaharashtraIchalkaranji & Kolhapur, South India-Coimbatore, Surat-Gujarat, and Ahmedabad-Gujarat. Learn more about Stäubli at SITEX 2024 in Surat.
SAFIR S32 automatic drawing-in machine
S1692 cam motion
Apprentices’ special commitment honored by the Trützschler Foundation, ROCKID.one and Mayor of Mönchengladbach, Felix Heinrichs
Several apprentices in Mönchengladbach were recently honored for their outstanding commitment during the “Azubis zu Schulen” project – with special recognition from the Trützschler Foundation, its partner ROCKID.one and Mayor of Mönchengladbach Felix Heinrichs, as well as Daniela Perner, Managing Director at the Lower Rhine Chamber of Industry and Commerce (IHK Mittlerer Niederrhein).
A total of 31 apprentices have received a personal award recognizing their commitment to promoting digital education and media skills among students at five elementary schools in Mönchengladbach during the past school year. The apprentices are employed by local companies including NEW AG, Gladbacher Bank AG, SMS group GmbH, AUNDE Group, Vanderlande Industries
GmbH & Co. KG, Stadtwerke Service
Meerbusch Willich GmbH & Co. KG and Trützschler Group SE. In close cooperation with the teachers, they
taught school students how to use tablet devices, search engines and work-related software correctly, while also providing insights into programming robotics..
Caroline Lange, Chairwoman of the Trützschler Foundation, is looking forward to further collaboration with ROCKID.one.
Ares Bernhardt, an apprentice in the field of electrical/electronic engineering at the Trützschler Group SE, believes the initiative was a great success for everybody involved. “Spending time with these kids was very exciting,” he says. “It was cool to teach other people for a change – and I was surprised by how eager the students were to learn. I highly recommend other trainees to take part in this project because it’s a fantastic opportunity for personal and professional growth.”
Betül Düz, an office management trainee at NEW AG, shares this sentiment. “I felt supported by the teachers and ROCKID.one the whole time. Overall, it was a great team effort between teachers, students and trainees – I really enjoyed it.”
High praise from Mayor Felix Heinrichs
The Mayor of Mönchengladbach, Felix Heinrichs, sees significant potential in the future of the “Azubis an Schulen” project and is impressed by the unprecedented commitment of the companies and young people involved. “It’s simply great that a large number of companies and trainees in Mönchengladbach are willing to invest time and effort to share knowledge with elementary school children at eye level,” he says. “This social commitment demonstrates a strong spirit of unity. The project also shows that cooperation
between companies in Mönchengladbach and the Lower Rhine Chamber of Industry and Commerce (IHK Mittlerer Niederrhein) is working perfectly. I’m delighted by this shared achievement.”
After successfully establishing the project at 70 schools in four German states over the past four years, the Trützschler Foundation and ROCKID.one are aiming for even more success in Mönchengladbach next year. The “Azubis an Schulen” project will be rolled out at another 5-10 elementary schools. In addition, the two partners are pursuing an extracurricular learning concept in cooperation with the Junior University in Mönchengladbach. “We are very pleased
that we have been able to win over so many companies and trainees for this great project in Mönchengladbach – and we will continue to give this initiative our full support. The Trützschler Foundation will continue to provide funding for ‘Azubis an Schulen’ for the next two years,” says Caroline Lange, Chairwoman of the Board of Directors of the Trützschler Group SE.
The success so far has helped strengthen ROCKID.one’s commitment to launching this concept in other German locations next year – including Bremen, Dortmund, Hamburg, Münster and the Rhine-Ruhr region.
F.l.t.r.: Ralph Thannisch,Team Leader Ind.-Techn. Apprenticeship Trützschler Group SE; Florian Schürenkrämer, Member of the Shareholders’ Committee Trützschler Group SE; Rene Haas, Instructor Industrial Apprenticeship Trützschler Group SE; Philip Haberkamp, Apprentice Electronics Engineer Trützschler Group SE; Leon Baumgart, Apprentice Construction Mechanics Trützschler Group SE, Alexsandra Sander Hernandez, Apprentice Electronics Engineer Trützschler Group SE; Ares Bernhardt, Apprentice Electronics Engineer Trützschler Group SE; Richard Bischoff, former Apprentice Industrie Mechanics Trützschler Group SE; Marco Frommenkord, Second Chairman ROCKID.one; Heinrich Trützschler, Shareholder and Supervisory Board Trützschler Group SE; Edda Schürenkrämer; Shareholder Trützschler Group SE; Caroline Lange, Chairwoman Trützschler Foundation; Dr. Michael Schürenkrämer, Shareholder and Supervisory Board Trützschler Group SE; Georgina Schrötgens, Board of the Trützschler Foundation; Mario Schwarz, Chairmand ROCKID.one; Daniela Perner, Managing Director IHK Mittlerer Niederrhein.
Mayor Felix Heinrichs praised the project.
Water saving & Savio
In its small reality, Savio is committed through its daily activities to contribute to a responsible choice toward people and the environment, for a sustainable future and development.
Among the initiative, Savio has joined the WHP - Workplace Health Promotion, a projet for the adoption of worker health and safety procedures and in the development of CSR or corporate welfare practices - has constructed a solar farm of 1MW which ensure 70% of the energy needed for the Pordenone plant, and, last but not least, has installed water dispenser spread throughout the factory.
3 years ago Savio has decided to install water dispensers spread throughout the factory to fill reusable bottles, in order to consume less plastic and learn the best practises of reuse and recycle. To support and promote this initiative, in March 2023, in occasion of the World Water Day, each employee received as a gift a reusable stainless bottle to bring to work, to gym and during freetime activities.
Impact we achieved:
Since the installation, August 29th 2020, the water fountains dispensed 49.821 liters of water, which means 75 liters per day equal to 150 resusable bottled filled every day. In 3 years we have saved 99.000 plastic bottles and 7,9 tons of CO2!
We do care: water affects everyone, and for us, the action taken is an important step for a long-term sustainable future, but we need everyone to take action.
Italian textile machinery: 2nd quarter 2023 drop in order intake
During the second quarter of 2023, the orders index for textile machinery, as compiled by the Economics Department of ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers, dropped significantly compared to 2022 April – June 2022 period (-30%). In absolute terms, the index stood at 85.1 points (basis 2015=100).
This drop is the result of a reduction in the collection of new orders recorded by manufacturers both domestically and on foreign markets. The decrease in orders in Italy amounted to 21%,
whereas a 31% downtrend was observed abroad. The absolute value of the index on foreign markets settled at 81.9 points, while in Italy it stands at 117.2 points. New orders for the second quarter amounted to 4.1 months of guaranteed production. ACIMIT’s data also shows that the use of production capacity by Italian manufacturers was 70% for the first half of 2023. This percentage is expected to remain stable for the second half of the year.
ACIMIT president Marco Salvadè stated that, “The orders index for the second quarter elaborated by our
Economics Department clearly shows a decline in new orders both in Italy and abroad compared to the previous year. The decline that usually precedes an event such as ITMA, the international textile machinery exhibition held last June in Milan, however, is part of a negative trend that has been going on for several quarters”.
Uncertainty appears to be weighing heavily especially on markets abroad, where foreign trade statistics updated to the first quarter of 2023 are marked by a slackening in Italian sales in some important reference markets, such as Turkey, China, the United States and Pakistan.
Salvadè added that, “Feedback from over 400 Italian companies that took part in ITMA is positive. It’s now necessary for the many contacts made during the event to materialize and for the demand for machinery in the main textile machinery markets to resume a path towards growth.”
Marco Salvadè, President, ACIMIT
Asahi Kasei joins the Japan Hydrogen Forum to support decarbonization in the U.S.
Asahi Kasei announces that it has joined the Japan Hydrogen Forum (JH2F), which was established to support the decarbonization goals of U.S. federal, state, and local governments. The company will advance activities as a member of the Hydrogen Production Committee, one of the five subcommittees of JH2F
JH2F was established by 15 Japanaffiliated companies with hydrogen-related operations in the U.S. to support the decarbonization goals of the U.S. Activities are performed in five sectoral subcommittees for hydrogen production, land transportation, port decarbonization, power generation, and finance, supported by the Japanese government and affiliated governmental organizations such as the Japan External Trade Organization (JETRO), New Energy and Industrial Technology Development Organization (NEDO), Japan Organization for Metals and Energy Security (JOGMEC), and Nippon Export and Investment Insurance (NEXI).
Hydrogen-related business is one of Asahi Kasei’s “10 Growth Gears” (GG10), businesses to lead the next phase of growth in fields of focus as part of its
medium-term management plan for the fiscal year 2024 focused on the theme “Be a Trailblazer.” Asahi Kasei is currently advancing its hydrogen-related business centered on the alkaline water electrolysis system for hydrogen production developed utilizing its experience and expertise gained with the membrane process for chlor-alkali electrolysis.
Asahi Kasei installed a large 10 MWscale alkaline water electrolysis system at the Fukushima Hydrogen Energy Research Field (FH2R) as part of a NEDO project,1 and performed several trial operations2 since 2020. Based on the technological achievements obtained at FH2R, Asahi Kasei plans to commercialize a larger-scale alkaline water electrolysis system comprising multiple 10 MW modules through various trial operations in the ongoing NEDO/Green Innovation Fund demonstration project of “Green hydrogen production by alkaline water electrolysis system,” which was awarded in 2021.3
Through the activities in Japan Hydrogen Forum, Asahi Kasei will contribute to the establishment of hydrogen society together with various governmental and non-governmental
organizations and corporations related to the hydrogen value chain in the U.S. by promoting collaboration and making proposals. Asahi Kasei will also build business in the U.S. for large-scale alkaline water electrolysis systems and their after-sales and technical services by leveraging the relationships gained across the value chain
“Hydrogen social construction technical development project/Hydrogen energy system technical development/Technical development concerning business model construction and the large-scale actual proof of a reenergy use hydrogen system”
Asahi Kasei’s electrolysis system starts world’s largest-scale hydrogen supply operation at the Fukushima Hydrogen Energy Research Field in Namie”
Green Innovation Fund/Hydrogen Production through Water Electrolysis Using Power from Renewables/Technology development for increasing the size of water electrolysers, and Power-to-X large-scale demonstrations/Large-scale Alkaline Water Electrolysis System Development and Green Chemical Plant Demonstration”
Better Cotton and Cotton Egypt Association celebrate renewal of strategic partnership at multistakeholder event in Cairo
Better Cotton, the world’s largest cotton sustainability initiative, and Cotton Egypt Association (CEA), the organisation responsible for promoting and protecting Egyptian cotton worldwide, celebrated the launch of their renewed strategic partnership at a multi-stakeholder event in Cairo.
Uniting key stakeholders from across the cotton sector in Egypt and beyond, the event brought together representatives from Better Cotton, CEA, Better Cotton’s Programme Partners in Egypt (Alkan, Modern Nile and El Ekhlas), and a number of leading Better Cotton Retailer and Brand Members, as well as these members’ suppliers.
Through a renewed strategic partnership, Better Cotton and CEA aim to further enhance the yields and
sustainability credentials of Egyptian cotton while ensuring fair working conditions for farmers and workers.
At the event, participants discussed opportunities to collaborate and what is required to increase the uptake of more sustainable Egyptian cotton.
Attendees also visited a Better Cotton licensed farm in Kafr Saad, in the north of Egypt, where farmers demonstrated sustainable agricultural practices. Better Cotton Members and others in attendance were able to engage with the farmers and workers, discussing key challenges and opportunities in adopting these practices.
The event was an important moment to reflect on the progress that Better Cotton and Cotton Egypt Association have made through our partnership so
far, and the opportunities for further success going forward. It provided the opportunity for direct dialogue between Better Cotton producers, supply chain actors and key stakeholders from the British retail industry, and it is anticipated that it will result in increased demand for more sustainably produced Egyptian cotton.
I believe that we had a wonderful and fruitful event celebrating years of dedication, collaboration, and hard work that led to where we are today in driving the sustainability of ‘white gold’. The great interest shown today by retailers –and the support we have from all stakeholders in attendance – will pave the way for more success, more production of Egyptian sustainable cotton with Better Cotton’s standards, and more uptake from retailers.
INDEX™26 chooses May dates to avoid conflict
The textbooks tell us that organisational agility is a crucial skill in today’s fastpaced business environment, that companies which can adjust to new situations, and learn from their experiences, display attributes which provide the keys to success.
If there is one industry which has become a shining example of the commercial value of embracing change, it is the nonwovens industry.
Although the dates for INDEX™26 had already been announced (21-24 April 2026), when a subsequent calendar conflict with another event risked imposing an unenviable choice on our valuable customers, we preferred to be flexible in our response to finding a solution, and look for other opportunities in an already crowded calendar.
We are pleased therefore to announce that suitable alternative dates have been found and are happy to reveal that INDEX™26 will be taking place from 19 to 22 May 2026.
Although we do not underestimate the effect this diary alteration may have on the planning and logistics of our exhibitors and visitors, we felt it would enable attendees to maximise their presence at both events. INDEX™26 will remain full of valuable insights into this dynamic market for which the event is renowned: the much-appreciated free product presentations, seminars &
workshops and industry get-togethers will naturally form part of the rich programme.
In addition, this flagship event will feature a panoply of new experiences in and around the event, many focussed on inspiring future generations of nonwovens talent, with the objective of enhancing competitivity and deepening knowledge of new market opportunities.
Like the industry itself, the profiles of exhibitors and visitors have diversified considerably over the years. At the last event in 2023, an increasing number of visitors amongst the 12’000 visits were drawn to INDEX™ seeking solutions for applications other than Hygiene.
Noteworthy amongst these are the Filtration, Packaging, Healthcare, Geotextiles, Transportation, Cleaning & Wipes sectors. Themes common to all sectors such as sustainability challenges & innovation, resource management and the role nonwovens will play in the future will form the subject of many discussions during the exhibition’s side events programme.
The INDEX™ Team looks forward to welcoming you on the new dates in May, and appreciates your comprehension and adaptability which we firmly believe will be to our mutual benefit.
Let’s make INDEX™26 a memorable event!
June dates announced for next year’s Intertextile Shenzhen
In a move anticipated to augment participants’ sourcing calendars, the organisers have announced mid-year show dates for the next edition of Intertextile Shenzhen Apparel Fabrics. Set to take place from 5 – 7 June 2024, the show will return to Shenzhen Convention & Exhibition Center in Futian business district. Conveniently accessible by a variety of ports and stations, next year’s venue is seen as an ideal location for buyers from across China, ASEAN, and beyond.
As an added incentive for global textile players, China recently announced that it will offer visa-free entry for business and leisure travellers from France, Germany, Italy, the Netherlands, Spain and Malaysia1. Ms Wilmet Shea, General Manager of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd, commented: “With several key apparel-producing countries represented, we fully expect this move to have a positive effect on international attendance at our textile trade fairs next year. Regarding Intertextile Shenzhen specifically, we are also looking forward to welcoming more key domestic buyers, with the mid-summer dates ideal for replenishing stock between seasons, and
our alternative venue co-located with much of the region’s apparel industry in the heart of Futian.”
Guangdong is seeking to top RMB 700 billion (USD 98.2 billion) in textile and apparel industry revenue by 20252, and while Shenzhen itself is a major contributor, the province is home to several garment manufacturing centres for multiple sub-sectors, including ladieswear, menswear, childrenswear, denim, underwear, and wool.
Dalang Fashion Town in Shenzhen is one such hub, and Humen Town is set to emerge as another, with plans including the development of the Greater Bay Area International Fashion Valley, and the Greater Bay Area Fashion Industry Park3.
Intertextile Shenzhen’s GBA location is a key reason for its utilisation by key industry players. Held in November of 2023, the fair’s previous edition saw nearly 1,500 exhibitors from 16 countries and regions, and over 22,000 visits from more than 60 countries and regions. Its exhibitors’ ability to fulfil small minimum order quantities, and their tendency to keep product in stock are also regarded as strengths.
Speaking at the 2023 show, Mr Zheng Wang, from the International Division Sales Dept of Japanese supplier Sunwell Co Ltd, said: “Shenzhen is one of the next key markets that we want to develop.
This fair continues to attract quality Chinese customers, including exporters, niche brands, and online shops, who are increasingly demanding sustainable and functional textiles, and a wide range of fabrics.
Very target-oriented in sourcing, the customers in this market segment are quite different from those we met at Intertextile Apparel in Shanghai. Therefore, Intertextile Shenzhen is a crucial channel for us to expand our connections with new clients.”
Held concurrently with Yarn Expo Shenzhen, DPARK (Fashion Design) and PH Value, Intertextile Shenzhen Apparel Fabrics is organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd; Messe Frankfurt (Shenzhen) Co Ltd; the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT; and the China Textile Information Center.
Intertextile Shenzhen Apparel Fabrics will be held from 5 – 7 June 2024.
Textile Asia International Exhibition and Conferences 2024: Elevating Global Textile Excellence
Textile Asia International Exhibition and Conferences 2024, hosted by Ecommerce Gateway Pakistan, stands as a premier global event showcasing the pinnacle of textile innovation and expertise. Welcoming industry leaders, innovators, and enthusiasts from over 27 countries, the exhibition anticipates more than 700 foreign participants, solidifying its position as a convergence point for the textile industry.
This significant event spans multiple major cities, including Karachi, Faisalabad, and Lahore, each contributing unique expertise and resources to Pakistan's textile sector. The exhibition's strategic presence in these cities ensures greater accessibility and participation from various regions and stakeholders within the country's dynamic textile industry.
Karachi, being a major economic and industrial center, provides a strategic location for the event, attracting exhibitors and visitors from across the nation and the globe. Faisalabad and Lahore, recognized for their specialized contributions to textile manufacturing, also play host to the Textile Asia Exhibition, creating a platform for local businesses, manufacturers, and professionals to showcase their products, technologies, and services.
Event Highlights
With participation from more than 27 countries and over 700 foreign attendees, the exhibition will showcase an extensive array of textile machinery, accessories, raw materials, and services.
This platform provides a unique opportunity for global industry players to explore new business avenues, forge strategic partnerships, and stay abreast of cutting-edge trends.
Message from Dr. Khursheed Nizam, Group President of Ecommerce Gateway Pakistan
"The Textile Asia International Exhibition and Conferences has long been recognized as a beacon of excellence in the textile industry. With participants from over 27 countries and a significant presence of more than 700 foreign delegates, this year's exhibition underscores the global significance of Pakistan's textile sector. We invite all stakeholders to join us in this collaborative endeavor to drive innovation, foster partnerships, and propel the industry towards sustainable growth and prosperity."
Message from Mr. Uzair Nizam, President of the Exhibition
"As we convene for the Textile Asia International Exhibition and Conferences 2024, I extend a warm welcome to participants, exhibitors, and delegates from across the globe. Our commitment to excellence and innovation drives us forward, and this year's event promises to be a testament to the collective vision and ingenuity of the global textile community. Let us come together to share insights, foster collaboration, and shape the future of textiles."
Ecommerce Gateway Pakistan is a renowned event management company dedicated to promoting trade and investment opportunities across various sectors. With a legacy of organizing successful international exhibitions and conferences, we remain committed to facilitating global partnerships and driving economic growth through innovation and collaboration.
ITM 2024 visitor invitation system is online!
ITM 2024 Exhibition, which will host textile technology leaders, will open its doors to visitors between June 4-8. The online invitation system has been activated to enter the ITM 2024 Exhibition, which will turn into a textile show with the participation of hundreds of manufacturers from all over the world and the visit of global sector investors and trade delegations.Visitors will be able to buy online invitations at advantageous prices of up to 50% until December 31, 2023.
The activities for the International Textile Machinery Exhibition ITM 2024, one of the world's most important meeting points in the field of textile machinery, are in full speed. The online invitation system that allows visitors to easily enter the ITM 2024 Exhibition has been activated. Visitors who want to take their place in this great meeting must first log in to the website: https://www.itmexhibition.com/ and fill in the visitor information form. After the registration process, an e-invitation will be sent by e-mail. With this e-invitation, the visitors will be able to enter the ITM 2024 Exhibition without waiting in line by taking their badge at the entrance of the fairground.
The Latest Products of Textile Technology Leaders will be Exhibited for the First Time at ITM 2024
After ITM 2022, which hosted 1280 companies and 64,500 professional visitors from 102 countries, attention shifted to ITM 2024, which will break records with the number of exhibitors and visitors. At ITM 2024, which will be
held at Tüyap Fair and Congress Center between June 4-8, 2024, textile technology leaders will bring their latest products to their visitors for the first time. Visitors to ITM 2024, where innovations from every field of textile from weaving to knitting, yarn to digital printing, finishing to denim will be exhibited; will discover innovative, nature-protecting, pioneering technologies in digitalization for a sustainable future.
Professional Visitors will Steer Their Investments with ITM 2024
Company owners, managers, employees and sector representatives who visit ITM 2024 will have the opportunity to see the latest technological innovations for the first time and “touch the firsts”. Company owners who will be able to get information from experts about the technologies they will use in their factories will develop their products and direct their investments.
DyStar launches Eco-Advanced Indigo Dyeing
DyStar, a leading specialty chemical company with a heritage of more than a century in product development and innovation is proud to announce its latest innovation, Eco-Advanced Indigo Dyeing.
The launch of DyStar’s Eco-Advanced Indigo Dyeing aims to reduce water usage by up to 90% and energy consumption by up to 30% during the production process. The new DyStar’s Eco-Advanced Indigo Dyeing is applicable in the Indigo traditional dyeing process, for Sulphur dyes, and colored Denim. The technique of sustainable indigo dyeing has already been proven to reduce substantially the effluent load in Denim production.
Mr Naceur Azraq, Global Technical Manager of DyStar Denim said, “At
DyStar, we are constantly innovating through our research and development. The introduction of an advanced sustainable indigo dyeing technology will help the Denim industry to save valuable natural resources.”
DyStar’s eco-friendly indigo dyeing process is recognized for helping customers deliver better consistency in quality while achieving less wastewater treatment in the effluent. DyStar’s products further support customers in their sustainability journey towards a cleaner and more cost-effective production environment while quality is not compromised.
About DyStar Indigo
DyStar Indigo is backed by a legacy of 125 years of Technical Development and
Inspiration. The core product is the stateof-the-art DyStar® Indigo Vat 40% solution which allows a cleaner indigo dyeing process and a reduction of the Sodium Hydrosulfite usage by 60% to 70% or even to zero. As an innovative solution provider, DyStar offers a wide range of high-quality dyes, including Auxiliaries products to help customers achieve beautiful and fashionable wash effects such as Lava® dyes for colorful denim. Customers are well supported globally by our expert team in their respective denim markets.
To learn more about DyStar’s EcoAdvanced Indigo Dyeing, please contact marketing.denim@dystar.com
DyStar and Lava dyes are registered trademarks of DyStar Colours Distribution GmbH, DE.
Archroma showcases Planet Conscious Super Systems+ at Colombiatex 2024
End-to-end solutions that deliver resource savings, cleaner chemistries and outstanding durability for denim, cotton knits and polyester-cotton blends
Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, is showcasing some of its most effective planet conscious innovations and solution systems at this year’s Colombiatex de Las Américas, being held from January 23 to 25, 2024.
“The Colombian textile and apparel industry has always emphasized quality and creativity. Now it is also emerging as a regional leader in the shift to sustainable innovation and circular business practices,” Fernando Hernandez Espinosa, VP Americas, Archroma Textile Effects, said. “Colombiatex captures this dynamism and is an ideal platform for global companies like Archroma to deepen our relationships with the enterprises and entrepreneurs driving the sustainable growth of the industry in Latin America and beyond.”
Archroma is using its attendance at Colombiatex 2024 to introduce a new concept that promises to help the region’s brands and mills optimize their productivity, add value to their products and create a positive impact on the environment: Super Systems+.
“Archroma today has the industry’s broadest product portfolio, as well as unmatched technical expertise and processing experience. We have brought all of this together to create our new Super Systems+. These powerful end-toend systems combine processing solutions and intelligent effects for specific end uses, helping brands, retailers and mills optimize their productivity, sustainability and market competitiveness,” Dhirendra Gautam, VP Product Marketing and Strategy, Archroma Textile Effects, said.
Each of the Super Systems+ solutions offers exceptional performance, including end-product durability, while meeting sustainability targets with cleaner
chemistries that comply with current and anticipated industry regulations or deliver resource savings, or both. Solutions are currently available for popular end-use segments, from denim to cotton and poly-cotton knits.
For iconic black denim with a cleaner environmental footprint, brands and mills can choose DIRESUL® EVOLUTION
BLACK to create unique shade and washdown effects with an overall impact reduction of 57% compared to standard Sulfur Black 1 liquid.* For authentic blue denim, Archroma’s breakthrough anilinefree** pre-reduced DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 LIQ produces coveted indigo colors with the same performance and efficiency as conventional indigo dye, but in a more planet-friendly way.
To embrace circularity and create natural shades on cellulosic-based fibers including cotton, kapok, linen and viscose, brand owners can now turn to Archroma’s patented EarthColors® technology. It makes high-performance biosynthetic dyes from non-edible natural waste, such as almond shells, bitter orange residues and cotton production byproducts, helping conserve natural resources. For next-generation processing of polyester and its blends, Archroma’s ERIOPON® E3-SAVE all-in-one auxiliary
combines pre-scouring, dyeing and reduction clearing in a single bath to achieve substantial savings of water, energy and time.
For weather protection and stain resistance that is both economically and environmentally sustainable, Archroma Super Systems+ draw on the industry’s most extensive portfolio of fluorine-free durable water repellents. The right chemistry achieves the functionality of the brand’s intended end use while optimizing production and staying ahead of consumer expectations and regulatory change.
Established 35 years ago, Colombiatex has grown into a premier global platform connecting the textile and apparel industry and showcasing sustainable practices. More than 500 exhibitors and 12,000 buyers from South America and the world are set to converge at the exhibition over the three days.
Visit Archroma at Booth PC006 at the Plaza Mayor Medellín Convention and Exhibition Center for Colombiatex 2024 from January 23 to 25, 2024.
* Ecotarrae lifecycle analysis
** Below limits of detection according to industry standard test methods.
Naia™ from Eastman brings circularity at Heimtextil
Thanks to Naia™ from Eastman’s innovative efforts, environmentally conscious consumers will be able to sleep increasingly peaceful dreams in their beds, as bedding and fill made with Naia™ Renew make bedlinens, pillows and duvets sustainable from the inside out.
Waking up is also not so hard if you start the day with supremely soft towels made with Naia™ Renew: quick drying and fresher longer, sustainable without compromising on quality.
Together, we make circularity a reality
Eastman’s Naia™ Renew team believes in the power of innovation. That’s why collaborators are so important to make sustainable, circular solutions possible for the home textiles industry. WestPoint Home®, North Home, Huafang, Alkaram, and Ozanteks Tekstil San. ve Tic. A.S. are just some of the worldwide partners that at Heimtextil 2024 showcase soft, quickdrying towels and sustainable bedding that’s silky and gentle on the skin, made possible through Naia™ Renew staple fiber and the patented molecular recycling technology behind it.
Create value from waste
Produced from 60% sustainably sourced wood pulp and 40% certified waste materials*, Naia™ Renew staple
fiber is available at scale and can be blended with other sustainable fibers. Eastman transforms waste materials that are difficult to recycle – which would otherwise not have an endof-life option –into biodegradable fibers through its patented carbon renewal technology. This is one of Eastman’s molecular recycling technologies that breaks materials down into basic molecular building blocks, assuring end materials are indistinguishable from those made from traditional sources in quality, performance, or appearance.
Sustainability is everyone’s responsibility
Plus, Eastman’s process prioritizes safe and environmentally sound use of chemicals and sustainable wood pulp sourcing. Naia™ provides its partners with full transparency and responsibility from tree to fiber, being FSC and PEFC certified, supporting the reforestation projects with SOS Mata Atlantica in Brazil, and having recently been awarded once again the Canopy Dark Green Shirt as per Canopy Hot Button 2023 with 30 buttons.
Naia™ Renew has always had a strong sustainability and circularity story, and Eastman’s bold sustainability goals include having 50 percent of all its product made with Naia™ Renew by 2025. The company also aims to lower the
greenhouse gas (GHG) footprint of the current Naia™ portfolio by 40 percent by 2030. Circularity is the cornerstone of this mission.
“With Eastman’s molecular recycling technology, we’re solving a problem with waste, plastics, stuff that cannot be mechanically recycled and that would otherwise be probably destined for landfill and incineration,” said Chad Doub, global segment market manager, casual wear & home, Eastman.
The recycling process supports a circular economy – making the most of natural resources by creating end-of-life solutions for waste to reduce, reuse and recycle materials. This keeps waste out of landfills and incinerators while reducing carbon footprints and preserving natural resources, the carbon footprint of Naia™ Renew fiber is measurably reduced over its life cycle**, and – even though the fibers are made with hard-to-recycle materials – Naia™ Renew is certified biodegradable and compostable.
*Naia™ Renew recycled content is achieved by allocation of recycled waste material using GRS certified mass balance process.
** As compared to conventional Naia™ products. LCA third-party reviewed by Quantis. The current REC holdings for Naia™ Renew are wind.
Trust Protocol enrollment, climate smart cotton program applications now open
The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol today announced that growers can now enroll in the initiative and apply for the U.S. Climate Smart Cotton Program, presenting a transformative opportunity and offering a range of benefits that go beyond sustainability.
This is the second year of the enrollment window transition allowing growers to begin the process prior to planting and better align with peak cotton marketing dates. Growers who completed their enrollment during either period in 2023 will need to enroll again and are encouraged to get started today to maximize benefits.
January 4: Trust Protocol enrollment and Climate Smart Cotton Program applications open
March 1: Deadline to enter data and upload bales from the 2023 crop
April 30: Trust Protocol Enrollment and Climate Smart Cotton Program applications close.
The Trust Protocol is free for growers and is a voluntary, science-based
sustainability program that sets a new standard for delivering value from fiber to finished products.
“The Trust Protocol is the sustainability initiative for the U.S. cotton industry that provides growers field-level insights to help save money and improve efficiencies but is also an established platform to connect sustainably grown cotton with the supply chain,” said Daren Abney, Executive Director of the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol.
“Growers who complete their enrollment in the Trust Protocol can also apply for the Climate Smart Cotton Program, providing technical and financial support to help de-risk the implementation and adoption of Climate Smart Agriculture practices.”
U.S. cotton producer participation in the Trust Protocol is critical as brand and retailer demand for more sustainably grown cotton is higher than ever before. Recognizing the risks posed by carbon emissions, improving carbon footprint is
also a key focus area in the coming years. U.S. cotton farmers can play a vital role in achieving this through the U.S. Climate Smart Cotton Program. The shared goal of the program is to support farmers in adopting and implementing sustainable practices that benefit both their operations and the environment.
Applications for the Climate Smart Cotton Program will be reviewed on a first-come-first-serve basis until 1,650 farmers are approved, including 330 farmers from historically underserved communities.
Since the Trust Protocol’s launch in 2020, the program has already welcomed more than 1,800 supplier members and over 40 companies and their brands including Ralph Lauren, Gap, Levi Strauss & Co. and J.Crew.
To begin enrollment in the Trust Protocol and apply for the Climate Smart Cotton Program, visit TrustUSCotton.org.
Knitwear sector, a mainstay in textile industry
The Textile sector in Pakistan has an overwhelming impact on the economy, contributing 59.5% to the country’s exports. It is deemed as one of the most important sectors of Pakistan’s trade. The total textile exports stood at US$ 16.5 billion compared to US$ 19.3 billion in the same period last year. Pakistan’s textile exports have experienced a significant slump of around 14.6% during FY 2022- 23 as compared to same period last year. This decline can be attributed to the global recession, resulting in lower export orders, combined with a challenging domestic environment. In addition, the government’s restrictions on the import of materials have increased the cost of manufacturing, making it “unviable” to operate and export.
The domestic economy continues to pose challenges for textile players, including issues such as the unavailability of locally produced cotton, delays in the clearance of imported cotton and other essential inputs, elevated gas and electricity tariffs, and increased finance costs. Overcoming these obstacles will be crucial for the recovery and growth of the textile sector in Pakistan. Furthermore, global economic recession due to Russia Ukraine war. The industry imported Raw Cotton and Synthetic and Artificial Silk Yarn during FY 2022-23.
Hosiery Industry
The industry sustains directly livelihood of 210,000 skilled workers and 490,000 unskilled workers. Another 350,000 people benefit from allied cottage industries. Thus, the industry provides, directly and indirectly, sustenance to well over a million people.
Knitwear exports consist of knitted and processed fabrics knitted garments; knitted bed sheets, socks, etc. The export performance of knitwear during the period under review is given in the table2.
Today knitwear is also synonymous with trendy fashionable wear for casual sportswear as well as smart casual workwear. Pakistan knitwear (hosiery)
industry is playing a vital role in the value addition of the textile sector. This sector has export potential, despite remaining under pressure from its competitors, mainly Bangladesh, India, and the Far Eastern nations.
The knitwear (hosiery) sector, being the largest foreign exchange earner as well the largest contributor in the textile and total export of the country, demands deserving attention of the government to diversify knitwear products to bring more innovations and incentives to boost its exports.
Pakistan is the fourth largest cotton producer in the world and is an important player in the global textile market. Its knitwear industry is the highest value-
Source: Trade Development Authority of Pakistan.
Table 2: Export of Knitwear and (Hosiery) From Pakistan
added textile sector in the country and is distinguished by the high quality of raw material and competitive value of the end product.
Knitwear exports witness a 11.26% decrease
Knitwear exports during the fiscal year of 2022-23 declined by 11.26% as compared to exports of the commodity during the corresponding period of last year. During the period from June-July 2023, Knitwear worth US$ 449 million was exported, as compared to exports of US$ 506 million during the same period of last year. While there was a decline in 2022-23, this decline is primarily due to a decline of 26% in the exports to the US, the primary market for knits from Pakistan.
The top destination for Pakistan’s knitwear exports during FY23 were United States of America, Netherlands and Belgium with exports of US$ 186, 66 and 53 million respectively, for further information on top exports destinations for knitwear exports during FY23 have a look at Table-3.
Exports to the United States of America shrunk by 26.19% in FY23 compared to the figure of US$ 252 million last year. Similarly, knitwear exports to Netherlands reduced by 7.04% against the exports of US$ 71 million during 2021-22. Meanwhile the knitwear exports to Belgium grew by 1.92% compared to 52 million worth of knitwear exports during FY22.
The decline in the exports to the US was largely offset by an increase of 30% in the exports to the United Kingdom. The demand for Pakistan’s knitwear grew
Apparel and Knitwear
Table 3: Country-wise Export of Knitwear (Hosiery)
Source: Pakistan Bureau of Statistics.
significantly in the United Kingdom with exports worth of US$ 43 million showcasing a growth of 30.3% compared to exports worth US$ 33 million during FY22, followed by Spain where the demand increased from US$ 6 million to US$ 9 million during FY23 witnessing an increase of 33.33%.
Although total knitwear exports when compared against the US$ value between FY22 and FY23 showed a decline of 11.26% but the total quantity of knitwear exports between FY22 and FY23 grew by 6.83% increasing from 65,million dozens in FY22 to 69,million dozens during FY23, check Table-2.
Future Prospects
Pakistan's knitwear industry has always played a crucial role in exports of Pakistan, bringing much needed foreign exchange to Pakistan. The data provided
by Pakistan Bureau of Statistics and mentioned in Table-2 shows that the demand for Pakistan’s knitwear Industry is stable and a proof of that is the increase of total quantity in terms of exports between FY22 and FY23.
But due to uncertainty and political instability within Pakistan and constant fluctuation of dollar rate has led to an overall decrease of exports in terms of value.
Officials must seek a clear and well thought action plan and supporting policies through which Pakistan can harvest the true potential of what this segment has to offer.
References:
1.Pakistan Bureau of Statistics.
2.Pakistan Economic Survey- 2022-23. 3.Trade Development Authority of Pakistan.
Readymade Garments: A flourishing sector within the textile industry yet in trouble
The textile is the most important sector of Pakistan’s economy. In 2023, it contributed almost 8.5% to the country’s GDP, accounted for 46% of the industrial output, 54% of the total export earnings and 38% of the country’s workforce.
The readymade garment industry has emerged as one of the important smallscale industries in Pakistan. Its products have huge demand both at home and abroad. The local requirements of readymade garments are almost fully met by this industry.
The garment industry is also a good source of providing employment opportunities to a large number of people at very low capital investment. Exports increased in terms of quantity from 41 million dozen to 57 million dozen in various types of readymade garments but declined in terms of value to US$ 3,505.56 million during July- June FY2023 as compared to US$ 3,842.34 million during July-June FY2022, thus showing a 57 percent increase in terms of quantity while 8.77 percent decrease in terms of value. The recent statistics of the readymade garment exports are shown in the table-1.
Export of Readymade Garments
Readymade garments in terms of export value during the first six months of
Source: Trade Development Authority of Pakistan.
the fiscal year of 2022-23 remained steady when compared to the exports of the commodity during the corresponding period of last year. Exports during July –December, 2022 FY2022-23 totaled US$ 1,833 million against US$ 1,832 million during the corresponding period of last year showing a decrease of 5.73%
According to the data released by the Pakistan Bureau of Statistics for FY2023, the exports of bed wear decreased by 18.3 pc, of US$ 2,692 million as compared to the exports of US$ 3,293 million of the same period of last year. Meanwhile, Knitwear exports also decreased by 13.4 pc as the exports during the current fiscal year recorded worth US$ 4,437 million as compared to the exports during the same period of last year which recorded US$ 5,121 million.
During the period under review, Towels exports decreased by 10.1 pc,
worth US$ 1,000 in the current fiscal year, as compared to the exports valuing US$ 1,111 of the same period of last year.
Although garment sector exports have increased over the years and it has been one of the best performing segment of the textile value chain, the sector is underperforming relative to its potential. Pakistan lags behind its competitors in the global share in the export of garments.
According to statistics, Pakistan’s share in the exports of garments was a meager 1.10% compared to China’s 32.06%, Bangladesh’s 7.66%, Vietnam’s 5.94%, and India’s 3.81%.
Readymade Garments and CPEC
China Pakistan Economic Corridor (CPEC) provides an unprecedented opportunity for Pakistan to further expand its garment exports to the world
Table 1: Export of Readymade Garments from Pakistan
in the coming years. Under the industrial cooperation pillar of CPEC, Pakistan can take advantage of China’s retraction from the global market due to eroding cost competitiveness. This erosion can be attributed to surging labor costs in China, which was thrice the cost in Vietnam and Pakistan, twice that of India and six times that of Bangladesh. Through strategic positioning, Pakistan can leverage China’s exit by expanding its market share and exports.
Furthermore, CPEC is expected to drive improvement in Pakistan’s garment sector through relieving infrastructure constraints. By ensuring improved energy supply, better internal connectivity, and improved logistics, CPEC is likely to result in shorter factory to market lead times, enhanced global connectivity improving access to new international markets from Gulf to Europe, improved productivity and competitiveness, and increased growth in the sector due to benefits of agglomeration in the SEZs.
Recommendations
Pakistan needs appropriate and targeted industrial policy measures to support the garment sector. Since Pakistan’s industry comprises a large share of SMEs, it can follow India’s example, where the government is pitching its SME garments sector globally as a flexible way for big clients to costeffectively produce small, customizable lots. Similarly, medium-sized firms could take advantage of the improvement in ICT to hold stocks in Pakistan for clients to lower their inventory costs. This requires providing support to SMEs so that they may offset their scale disadvantage through access to a reliable supply of inputs and competitive credit. Government should assist in acquiring internationally recognized quality and safety certifications to increase SME's export readiness.
To improve value-added exports, Pakistan must focus on law and order stability, increasing labor productivity, reducing production costs, and increasing productivity. Most countries in the region have achieved this through a combination of investment in better machines, worker skills along IT and logistics. Pakistan garments industry needs to take the lead in providing demand-based training, not
Table 2: Country wise Export of Readymade Garments
Source: Trade Development Authority of Pakistan.
just at the entry-level, but also for upgrading the skills of existing workers. With many firms highlighting the significant absence of skilled middle management, the government could create a common training center for middle managers, while more technical skills could be offered on factory premises, on an appropriate cost-sharing basis.
To improve the cost-effectiveness of Pakistan’s garments in the international market, the government must remove extra taxes on utilities to ensure a uniform power tariff rate that is not significantly higher than regional competitors. Another strategy is for government to promote energy efficiency through investment incentives or tax credits. Moreover, to support firms in restructuring their existing energy system, support could also be earmarked under the Technology Upgrading Fund 20162019. Tax breaks can also be offered for restructuring industrial activity to lower production costs.
Pakistan was a leader among industrializing countries in the 1960s but unlike the East Asian economies, it failed to take advantage of the window of opportunity created by globalization that gathered momentum in the 70s and
beyond. However, extricating the economy from this trap is possible given the potential opportunities that exist for a dynamic sector like Readymade Garments.
Despite considerable constraints on the manufacturing economy, Garment firms have continued to outperform other industrial sectors. China’s transition away from low-value-added garments production provides a window of opportunity for Pakistan to obtain a segment of China’s US$170 billion export share. This is entirely achievable but will require a redoubling of policy effort on the recommendations provided in this study, along with greater initiative and appetite on part of the private sector.
With these in place, there is no doubt that the Garments sector can help Pakistan achieve sustainable economic growth, a reduction in the trade deficit, and improvements in overall societal welfare through stable and well-paying employment.
References
1.Pakistan Bureau of Statistics.
2.Pakistan Economic Survey- 2022-23.
3.Trade Development Authority of Pakistan.
Classic Denim Fabrics can be Sustainable: How to upgrade existing rope dyeing ranges with a double operational system
During ITMA-23 we have launched our revolutionary machines “CRAFTYFLOW” and “CRAFTYROPE” for the dyeing of denim warps with indigo and sulphur dyes: they are the only ones that, thanks to their dualtechnology can work both in air, as usually done today, and in nitrogen atmosphere with ecological and economical advantages.
These machines are the results of several trials and the evolution of the concepts utilized in our original dyeing system in nitrogen atmosphere, based on the insertion in classic dyeing ranges of special modules (Genius). This system had been first adopted by M/s Bluref, pioneer
of this technology, and, afterwards by other famous producers such as Covolan Ind. Textie, Candiani Denim, Sasha Denim, Advance Denim.
In order to develop our “CRAFTYFLOW” and “CRAFTYROPE”, we, at Master, have carried out several trials and experiments that have confirmed our new concepts and construction design, and that have also highlighted that the new multi-box concept is assuring many advantages in the process adjustment and higher flexibility compared with the previous idea of inserting specific modules.
Thanks to all these researches and experiments, we are glad to announce
that we have developed and patented the possibility to extend the concept of dualtechnology also to existing and already running indigo rope dyeing machines, the most commonly used, giving them a new future.
This technology upgrading on existing dyeing ranges requires a limited investment and can be realized on site in a simply way and with short machine down time. Basically, it consists of completing a number of dyeing boxes (we suggest up to 50%) with special devices and components allowing, from one side, to continue to work in the traditional way and, on the other one, using the nitrogen atmosphere.
In this way, it is possible to continue producing classic running qualities, but also to introduce new exclusive developments with better quality, less cost and ecologically sustainable.
In fact, thanks to this upgrading, existing machines will be able to continue to run usual indigo dyeing processes, but with the possibility to add bottoming or topping (or both of them) using nitrogen technology, as well as to dye pure sulphur colors without the need of a steamer achieving the highest quality levels, better fastness and brightness.
Using this advanced nitrogen technology, in case of sulphur colors, especially in case of black, a higher dye stuff use efficiency can be achieved, and it can be estimated, at a visual check, approximately +40% compared with traditional dyeing technology.
Moreover, the same upgrading allows to dye indigo in an ecological way, with a reduced number of boxes, using only one fifth of dye bath, saving up to 70% of hydrosulphite and caustic soda. The process can be designed both with low and high indigo concentration and temperature. In any case, thanks to the better indigo fixation, the result will bring also to a higher dye stuff use efficiency, better fastness and a saving of water in washing boxes with consequent reduction of production costs.
Thanks to nitrogen technology, indigo in the dye bath is totally and perfectly reduced up to a nanometric level and, in this condition, the resulting color fixation is much better and stronger compared with traditional system operating in air. This is the reason why, in this way, it is possible to achieve a better dye stuff use efficiency, a better fastness, intensity and brightness.
All what above explains why this innovative dyeing system is the only one that we can call “ecologic” as it brings to a reduction of dyeing bath volume, number of dips and oxidators, all conditions necessary for a drastic reduction of polluting chemicals, power and water consumption, being this last one of the most critical topics nowadays.
Concerning ecology issues, among the most urgent worldwide, many consumers protection organization are asking for an international law, to be introduced as soon as possible, to impose
the reduction of chemicals consumptions and the respect of regulations to protect health and the environment.
Further, it is important to underline that this new dyeing system allows, in any case, to play with all those typical parameters - physical, chemical, mechanical and technical – of dyeing processes to achieve the desired final results.
Unfortunately, over nearly twenty years after its invention, dyeing with nitrogen technology has not spread as expected due to a few reasons, the first one, the lack of technical knowledge and the underestimation of the enormous advantages they were offering by the potential utilizers.
In fact, many producers, although sensitive to ecology, have believed that they could achieve the desired ecotargets by simply applying some devices to their machines, such as ultrasound, etc., which are, actually, only palliatives capable to bring limited improvements, but nothing that can allow the reduction of dangerous and polluting chemicals.
Today, even if this new modern, experimented and suitable nitrogen technology is available, analyzing actual denim production, it comes out very clearly that, despite everyone making of ecological issues their banner, the majority, or rather almost all, of the denims on the market, are still dyed with the old classic method in open air, that is to say, anti-ecological.
Unfortunately, this situation persists even if many brands are asking for a more sustainable and ecologic denim and despite the fact that the new fabrics that can be obtained with the nitrogen technology may offer designers the possibility to offer new and innovative garments.
All together, it is evident that this anomalous situation can not be supported for long in the globalized environment we are living.
Denim producers have to face the imperative ecological and moral obligation to change their production mentality, to innovate/update their classic dyeing machinery to reduce the consumption of chemicals, water and power and to adopt everything necessary to offer ecological and sustainable
products, achieving, by the way, cost reduction advantages.
Summarizing, the updating of existing rope dyeing machines for the use of the dual-technology, will assure the possibility to operate as shown in the attached drawing no.12825, that is to say:
a) Indigo dyeing as per traditional method, in air, using all the available boxes at full level with low dye bath concentration. These dyeing processes can be completed, with bottoming, topping, sandwich sulphur colors dyed with nitrogen technology, for never-before achieved results.
b) Indigo dyeing – new ecological system with high dye stuff use efficiency – using nitrogen technology, half of the dye boxes, low dye bath level (one sixth of the total volume) and higher dye stuff concentration, achieving:
50 to 70% reduction of caustic soda and hydrosulphite
30% reduction of power consumption
Reduction of total production costs Higher dye bath circulation rate (thanks to its reduced volume) with the result of a better exchange dye bath-fibre and, thus, better general dyeing results
Possibility to develop new, original and exclusive articles, not achievable on traditional machines
Sulphur dyeing processes with high dye stuff utilization efficiency, better fixation, no need of steamer and better brightness compared with those on traditional dyeing machines operating in air.
To be noted that there is absolutely no nitrogen consumption during the dyeing process, except for the initial filling.
The upgrading above described is the bright, smart and economic solution to give life to the eco-sustainable denim for the future.
Jeanologia transforms denim design with the newest version of eDesigner
This jean-design software marks a milestone in the virtual creation of garments.
eDesigner promotes eco-design through the digitization of the collections, reducing samples by 80% and ensuring perfect reproducibility of production designs.
With a more intuitive interface, the latest version improves usability and enhances hyperrealism, while incorporating both fabric digitalization and access to Jeanologia's know-how. Designers are connected to wash developers, and brand names to manufacturers, creating a fluid and
agile channel for design validation and accelerated production and marketing.
Jeanologia, a leading Spanish company in the development of ecoefficient technologies, is boosting digitalization in eco-design with a new version of its eDesigner software.
Since its development in 2020, this innovative software for the digital creation of jeans has situated itself as the creative and eco-efficient technological alternative to traditional denim design, shaping the future of garment finishing.
The perfect editor for denim design
The new version of eDesigner offers a more intuitive user interface, as well as tools specific to jean design, providing a unique design experience. Worth highlighting is the "Trace" tool, which uses artificial intelligence to generate hyper-realistic designs from a single image.
It also features the possibility of working with digitized fabrics, thus enhancing hyperrealism with highdefinition renders to ensure that the design seen on the screen is what will be obtained in production: “What you see is what you get”
Access to Jeanologia's know-how
eDesigner also provides designers with a valuable source of inspiration and expertise through its Lightbrary, which gives users access to an extensive gallery of laser designs, vintage designs, wash effects, textures, tear and fray gallery, as well as a "Discover" section with trends and inspirational designs.
Jeanologia thus will share its knowhow with designers, who will be able to create things from scratch or build on
With the update of its powerful software for the digital creation of jeans, the Spanish firm positions itself as a partner of reference for eco-efficient digitalization.
Apparel and Knitwear
previous designs as a starting point for new creations.
Digital wash
The new eDesigner takes digitization to the next level, enabling the digital creation of patterns and garments and in doing so, reduces physical samples by 80%. This not only means significant savings in terms of resources, but also a substantial reduction in the carbon footprint generated by the transportation of samples.
The user can create digital cufflinks, combining digital patterns (eFit) with digital fabrics (eFabric), and partake in a truly authentic experience, as he or she will be able to analyze the results of wash applications on the fabrics.
All these innovations make it possible to shorten product development times by months, eliminating significant sample quantities and the now-unnecessary costs of shipping them around the world.
The perfect partner for the digitization of the development process
eDesigner acts as a fluid and agile twoway communication channel that connects laser designers with wash developers and brands with manufacturers. In this way, it speeds up the production and marketing of collections.
Once the design is finalized and the collection approved, the tool provides final digital files, which can be sent to production centers around the world to be converted into actual jean production.
As Jeanologia's Marketing Director, Carmen Silla, explains, "Thanks to this tool we’ll enable infinite iterations at zero cost and impact, while standardizing formats and communication.
We’ll improve production processes by making them more efficient and accelerate time-to-market, since we go from design, to sample and approval in a very short time.”
More than simply software, eDesigner is an eco-efficient digital transformation tool, destined to revolutionize the textile industry and contribute to its transformation into a more competitive, productive and sustainable industry.
Over 25 years working for the world
Since 1994, Jeanologia's mission has been to create an ethical, sustainable and eco-efficient textile industry, marking a new era through sustainability, digitalization and automation.
The company leads the transformation of the industry with its disruptive technologies: laser, G2 ozone, e-Flow, SmartBoxes, Colorbox and H2 Zero, capable of increasing productivity while reducing costs, water and energy consumption, in addition to eliminating harmful emissions and discharges, guaranteeing zero contamination.
Apparel and Knitwear
Lenzing unveils the new potential of TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers as alternative material for stretch fabrics
Lenzing’s latest innovative processing technique for wood-based TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers is tailored for stretch fabrics with enhanced recovery properties
Stretch fabrics using TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers are easy to care for, offering enhanced comfort and endless design possibilities for lightweight apparel Lenzing extends comprehensive fabric development support to assist mill partners in attaining the “BS EN 14704-1” standard for stretch fabrics made using TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers
Lenzing – Lenzing Group, a leading global producer of wood-based specialty fibers, announces a new processing technique of TENCEL™ branded lyocell fibers tailored to create stretch fabrics that enhances comfort of the wearer. This solution offers a fossil-free alternative that delivers exceptional stretch and recovery properties while adhering to responsible production methods.
Fabric innovation features enhanced stretch, comfort and easy-to-care properties
Lenzing’s new processing technique involves re-engineering woven fabric composed of TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers coupled with a fabric pre-treatment. During the wet process, TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers undergo significant swelling in
diameter, leading to increased yarn crimps in the widthwise direction. This translates into a fabric that can stretch with enhanced recovery1 and does not shrink or wrinkle easily, maintaining a smooth appearance even after home laundering2.
“Our technical innovation unlocks the inherent potential of TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers for producing stretch fabrics that move in harmony with the body. This enhances comfort with easy-to-care properties, making it ideal for lightweight apparel,” said Rex Mok, Vice President of Fiber Technical Marketing and Development at Lenzing. “We are committed to fostering responsible production practices3 through innovations in the textile sector and are delighted to share this latest innovative development with our fabric mill partners. Together, we are taking a significant stride towards reduced usage of fossilbased materials within the textile value chain while ensuring comfort and material performance.”
Empowering partners in their journey towards a more sustainable future
To take a step further, Lenzing extends its comprehensive support at the fabric development level to mill partners. The stretch fabrics made using TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers meet the international standard for fabric stretch and recovery properties4. The collaboration with Lenzing will enable mills and brands to unleash unlimited design possibilities
while addressing the growing consumer demand for comfortable apparel produced responsibly, particularly in sectors such as sportswear, athleisure garments, loungewear, and home textiles. A fossil-free alternative to conventional synthetic materials, TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers used in the stretch fabrics are derived from controlled or certified wood sources and made from a resource-saving closed-loop production process5. Additionally, the fibers are identifiable in end products and traceable back to their sources, ensuring greater accountability and transparency in the supply chain.
Rex Mok, Vice President of Global Technical Marketing and Development, Lenzing Group
Knitwear Lab relies on top creative performance and the CREATE patterning software
The Dutch company Knitwear Lab helps visions become reality. The creative think tank offers capacities in the areas of R&D, design, knitwear development and production of prototypes and small quantities and has thus implemented a wide range of ground breaking projects in recent years. The objects of the innovative projects range from medical products and high-tech sportswear to smart textiles with integrated sensors.
The design makes the difference
Sustainability activities are also part of the repertoire, such as the production of yarns from recycled waste. Knitwear Lab operates at two locations for its diverse tasks. In Almere in the Netherlands, a total of 14 employees, including five programmers, are available for development work. In Istanbul, there is a branch for production with a team of 16. The company has also relied on its partnership with STOLL since it was founded around ten years ago.
Two locations, one partner: STOLL
Both Knitwear Lab sites each have five STOLL flat knitting machines, including models from the modern ADF range. Prototypes are produced in Almere and there is small-scale production. The production plant in Istanbul specializes in the manufacture of high-quality knitwear in small quantities. STOLL is also involved in the creative processes. For the industrial development of knitwear, Knitwear Lab offers Virtual Knitting, a revolutionary method that combines virtual and physical elements of pattern development and knitwear production to reduce waste and pre-production steps. Customers can use Virtual Knitting to create realistic, producible collections, simplify their design iteration processes and take advantage of the wide range of real-life colorways. The basis for this is comprehensive knitwear expertise, the
latest 3D software and the CREATE PLUS patterning software, which was developed by STOLL together with KM.ON.
Making everyday work easier with
CREATE
Wolfram Geuppert, Head of Knitwear Design Systems Development at STOLL, spoke to Annika Klaas to find out what convinced Knitwear Lab to use CREATE. The Senior Knitwear Programmer at the creative industry pioneer has been using CREATE PLUS since January 2023, in particular for cutting creation and grading and digital knitwear design. She previously used M1plus®. The switch in the Knitwear Lab was triggered by the possibilities of 3D visualization. "The 3D
visualization of CREATE simplifies communication with the customer considerably. We use this function every day," says Annika Klaas. She personally appreciates the uncomplicated grading and exchange of stitch dimensions and the much faster and more efficient work with Dimensioned Shapes that this makes possible. This helps her in her day-to-day work. "We often have requests to realize the same product in different yarns, which now works much faster," says the programmer. Further simplifications would include minor optimizations in terms of the efficiency and userfriendliness of programming and additional import and export options for shapes. Discussions on implementation are already underway.
Kent State University School of Fashion relies on CREATE PLUS for more fun and efficiency in learning
The Kent State University School of Fashion is one of the top educational institutions in the US fashion industry. It educates around 1600 fashion design and merchandising students, focusing on creativity, self-confidence and realworld testing. An internship is also part of the course, as is access to unique resources, including various maker spaces such as the Knit LAB.
The knitting lab provides know-how about the various knitting techniques. The youngsters can also develop their own products, using four industrial knitting machines from STOLL in particular. The first machine, a member of the ADF family, went into operation in the summer of 2015, and since the spring of the following year, knitting programming know-how has also been offered with M1plus® and increasingly with CREATE PLUS. These courses are becoming increasingly popular. Today, there are already 20 programming stations in the Knit LAB. "Demand for the digital knitting classes has risen in recent years. Getting a place here is very valuable for your future career path," says Linda Ohrn-McDaniel.
The professor at the School of Fashion gave her first course in summer 2015 and enjoys using the machines made by STOLL because of their versatility. "I work in a very flexible environment. One day we are teaching fashion designers how to design sweaters and the next day we are collaborating with product designers, architects or medical researchers. With the STOLL machines, we can switch from one project to the next." Linda OhrnMcDaniel also appreciates the opportunities CREATE PLUS offers for her teaching. She explained what these are to Wolfram Geuppert, Head of Knitwear Design Systems Development at STOLL, in an interview.
WG: How long have you been working with CREATE PLUS and why?
LO: In spring and fall 2023, we launched our first CREATE PLUS courses. In both classes, students started with M1plus® and then switched to the new software for their final project. We also ran two summer workshops with CREATE PLUS in 2022 and 2023, which were very successful.
For me, the versatility of the programming solution is important. We
can already control many aspects with M1plus® and now also with CREATE PLUS. The software teaches students both knitting and programming knowhow. In particular, the clear visualization of a knitted fabric and the simultaneous display of technical details by CREATE PLUS helps to understand the interrelationships.
WG: How long have you been working with CREATE PLUS and why?
LO: In spring and fall 2023, we launched our first CREATE PLUS courses. In both classes, students started with M1plus® and then switched to the new software for their final project. We also ran two summer workshops with CREATE PLUS in 2022 and 2023, which were very successful.
For me, the versatility of the programming solution is important. We can already control many aspects with M1plus® and now also with CREATE PLUS. The software teaches students both knitting and programming knowhow. In particular, the clear visualization of a knitted fabric and the simultaneous display of technical details by CREATE PLUS helps to understand the interrelationships.
Online Knitted Fabric Defect Detection based on AI
By Dr. Tanveer Hussain
Fabric defects are a major challenge for textile manufacturers, as they can lead to waste, rework, and customer dissatisfaction. But what if there was a way to detect and prevent fabric defects in real time, using artificial intelligence? In this article, we will introduce you to an online knitted Fabric Defect Detection (FDD) system from Pailung, that detects fabric defects inside the knitting machine, and offers many other benefits for textile production.
AI Fabric Inspection From Pailung is a software suite that uses computer vision to detect fabric defects inside the knitting machine, reducing waste fabric, and increasing customer satisfaction. It consists of three components: Fabric Defect Detection (FDD), Knitting Fabric Management System (KFMS), and Pailung Online Management System (POMS).
Fabric Defect Detection (FDD)
FDD is a system that utilizes cameras, fitted inside the knitting machinery, and equipped with computer vision to detect defects during production. When a defect gets detected, the knitting machine can be shutdown, immediately, pausing production until the problem has been solved, and reducing the manufacturer’s waste fabric losses.
As much as 15% of knitted fabric may go to waste during production, due to defects such as snags and needle lines. This can result in significant financial losses for manufacturers, and negative impacts on the environment. What’s even worse for manufacturers, is when defective fabric reaches the customer, leading to quality complaints that can threaten future business.
It’s all too easy for a human to miss a tiny defect in a long roll of fabric, and for that fabric to be delivered to the customer by mistake. That’s why Pailung has been working hard to develop more advanced ways of detecting fabric defects.
The FDD system is installed close to the top of cylinder, and has the ability to immediately detect any defect. The system can also generate reports on defect types, locations, and frequencies, which can help manufacturers analyze and improve their production processes.
Knitting Fabric Management System (KFMS)
KFMS is a system that stores an archive of knitting detail resources. Every fabric that a Pailung knitting machine produces can be saved in this database, enabling any technician to produce all of those fabrics without prior knowledge of how they’re made.
Whereas, in the past, one technician might have all the know-how for producing a certain fabric, now any technician can produce that fabric. This effectively transfers all fabric production know-how from the individual technician to the factory as a whole.
Detailed parameters can be saved for each fabric:
Knitting parameters, including machine type, yarn type, specification, yarn length, and weight etc.
Adjustment parameters, including knitting needle, tension, angle, and timing etc.
The KFMS also allows technicians to create new fabrics by modifying existing ones or combining different ones. The system can also simulate how the fabric will look like before production, saving time and resources.
Pailung Online Management System (POMS)
POMS is a system that allows the technician to control multiple knitting machines from a single computer. All workflows, from production to order scheduling and machine monitoring, can be performed remotely using this central system.
The POMS can also connect with the FDD and KFMS systems, enabling real-time defect detection and correction, as well as easy access to fabric resources. The system can also provide data analysis and visualization on production efficiency, quality control, energy consumption, and maintenance status.
The POMS can also integrate with other systems such as ERP or MES, creating a seamless digital network for textile manufacturing.
Key Insights
AI Fabric Inspection From Pailung is a software suite that uses computer vision to detect fabric defects inside the knitting machine
The software suite consists of three components: FDD, KFMS, and POMS
The software suite aims to reduce waste fabric losses, increase customer satisfaction, transfer know-how from technicians to factories, enable remote control and monitoring of machines, and provide data analysis and visualization
The software suite is part of Pailung’s efforts to aid textile manufacturers in their digital transformation and enable them to reap the benefits of textile industry 4.0.
Cone Denim x AMK Atelier x Tonello launch collaborative collection at Kingpins Amsterdam
Cone Denim® will debut Wander, a denim collaboration with AMK Atelier, garment finisher Tonello and videographer Eduard Nijgh at Kingpins Amsterdam. The collaborative collection was inspired by the outdoors and the mental health benefits of being immersed in nature. Wander, designed by AMK Atelier Founder Maria Gunnarsson, includes garments in a range of Cone Denim fabrics with the Cone® Community Mental Health Awareness selvage as its hero.
“Project Wander grew organically after a conversation with Maria last year at Kingpins Amsterdam. We worked together on a prior Cone Denim collaboration, The Very Best of Times, and our shared passion for how being outdoors can benefit an individual’s mental health inspired this collection,” said Cone Denim Design Director Pierette Scavuzzo. “The opportunity to work with AMK Atelier, Tonello and Eduard Nijgh on a cause-oriented collaboration and raise awareness through our reach in the
industry has been a profound experience.”
Wander carries a dual meaning. On one hand, our minds can wander and cause our mental health to be challenged. On the other hand, wandering in nature positively affects our mental health. Being nurtured by nature benefits both our physical and mental wellbeing, as reported by the International Journal of Mental Health and Addiction. Their research cites the benefits of nature therapy on mental health and wellness. Studies have shown that spending time in nature is therapeutic. The simple act of spending time outdoors has been associated with lower rates of depression and reduced stress.
“I was born on a farm in the Swedish countryside, and spending time in nature has been a big part of my upbringing. Now that I live in Amsterdam, I value nature even more. My partner Arne and I try to
get out as often as we can in our camper car to change the scenery from the city life,” said AMK Atelier Founder and Designer Maria Gunnarsson. “With this background, it was natural to design an outdoor collection based on our lifestyle
in the mental health fabric from Cone Denim. I would be honored if this collection could inspire anyone to take a breath, go for a walk and look outside for what nature has to offer.”
The Wander capsule collection on display at Kingpins will showcase 13 garments inspired by nature and the outdoors. Gunnarsson’s concept for the collection focused on nature, recovery and function. Maria featured the Cone Community Mental Health Awareness fabric with its neon green ID, symbolizing the importance of mental well-being as a central element in her designs. Each garment has the well-known J.R.R. Tolkien’s quote, ‘all who wander are not lost,’ lasered into the fabric.
“The Wander collaboration with Cone Denim and AMK Atelier was a bit like getting lost, only to find yourself again.
A finding oneself understood as being in greater contact with nature, as well as in finding a balance with it,” said Alice Tonello, marketing and R&D director for Tonello. “All of this inspired us in making the washes and dyes, which were very responsible and gentle.”
Created in 2019, The Cone Community Collection of fabrics supports and raises awareness for worthy causes that align with the values of Cone Denim. Mental Health was the fourth to launch in the collection and has a neon green ID symbolic for mental health awareness. Made from Cone Denim selvage, this collection has an authentic, 80s-inspired construction in 100% cotton. Cone Denim donates a portion of sales from this collection to the Child Mind Institute.
According to the Child Mind Institute, as many as 1 in 5 children struggle with mental health and learning challenges. Due to stigma, misinformation, and a lack of access to care, the average time between the onset of symptoms and any treatment is over 8 years. This is the reason the Child Mind Institute was created.
The Child Mind Institute is an independent, national nonprofit dedicated to transforming the lives of children and families struggling with mental health and learning disorders by giving them the help they need. They have become the leading independent nonprofit in children’s
Apparel and Knitwear
mental health by providing gold-standard evidence-based care, delivering educational resources to millions of
families each year, training educators in underserved communities, and developing tomorrow’s breakthrough treatments.
Scavuzzo continued: “We are excited to, once again, bring some of the greats in the industry together to support such an important cause. Tonello is one of the global leaders in garment finishing technologies and was able to bring beautiful, authentic washes to life. With Maria’s impeccable craft and design details and Eduard Nijgh contributing with his storytelling, we are happy to bring a collection that inspires and supports those facing mental health struggles.”
Santoni finalizes acquisition of Terrot, a pivotal realignment of the circular knitting machine industry
Acquisition establishes Santoni as the world’s top circular knitting machine producer, unifying the fragmented industry through its robust Ecosystem Strategy.
Santoni Shanghai Knitting Machinery Co., Ltd., made an appearance at the ITMA Asia + CITME, and is honored to announce that it has received regulatory approval from Chinese authorities for its proposed acquisition of Terrot GmbH, a leading manufacturer of circular knitting machines in Germany.
The acquisition represents a pivotal step in Santoni's strategy to advance the circular knitting machine industry. The integration of Terrot into the Santoni ecosystem is projected to increase Santoni's production capacity and boost its market share, and in conjunction with other strategic objectives, firmly solidify Santoni's position as the leading manufacturer in the industry, with unrivaled scale, depth of innovation and expertise.
Seeking to meet rising demand for high-end circular knitting products, Santoni has pursued an Ecosystem Strategy in recent years, aiming to unify a highly fragmented industry and enhance innovation, sustainability and digitalization to more effectively meet market needs. The deployment of both parties' latest innovation practices, textile automation offerings, integrated enterprise services, C2M solutions, and a platform for designers "Materialliance", will allow Santoni Shanghai and Terrot to connect and bridge demand and offer of circular knitted products, delivering substantial added value to clients.
By incorporating Terrot's offerings, particularly in the double jersey and jacquard sector, Santoni stands to gain a competitive edge in offering high-
efficiency machines known for their superior performance, low maintenance, and cost-effectiveness. Highlighting this shift, Terrot's patented UCC 572-T will be showcased during ITMA Asia + CITME in the Santoni's Shanghai premises. This state of the art high-feeder transfer jacquard machine for sports and leisurewear in fine gauges will offer a glimpse into the potential of future collaboration.
"I am very excited about today's announcement," said Gianpietro Belotti, CEO of Santoni Shanghai. The acquisition of Terrot, including the reputable Pilotelli brand, will allow us to deliver on our commitment to building a stronger, more consolidated global ecosystem capable of yielding a sustained competitive advantage in the circular knitting machine industry. Looking ahead, we aim to cultivate an even more extensive talent pool and solutions portfolio, creating synergies that empower us to deliver a superior knitting experience to our customers."
"Today's excellent news represents the coming together of two outstanding
teams," said Robert Czajkowski, Managing Director of Terrot GmbH. "Santoni Shanghai's strategic acquisition broadens our global manufacturing capabilities, augments our technological expertise, and strengthens every link along the supply chain, allowing us to offer innovative textile performances to the global market more effectively."
"We look forward to upholding Terrot's 'Made in Germany' heritage while further growing its strong brand at Santoni," said Dirk Lange, Terrot GmbH Co-Managing Director. "With our shared passion for innovation and our mutual vision for a more efficient and sustainable textile and apparel industry, we are poised to drive incredible transformation by enhancing the production of superior textile machinery and inspiring customers with fresh approaches to growth."
Following the acquisition, Terrot will continue to operate under the leadership of managing directors Robert W. Czajkowski and Dirk Lange. Santoni plans to maintain Terrot’s headquarters in Chemnitz, Germany, along with its facilities, brands, and practices.
KARL MAYER successfully launches the TM 4 EL in the four-bar high-speed all-rounder tricot market
At the end of last year, KARL MAYER launched the TM 4 EL – a new, highly flexible machine for the mid-range segment in the four-bar tricot machine sector. The all-rounder produces fabrics for upholstery, automotive interiors and outerwear, as well as sportswear items and home textiles, all while offering excellent value for money.
“When developing the TM 4 EL, we particularly focussed on our customers’ needs. A high degree of versatility and efficiency were important. Using this leading machine, our customers can produce the majority of common items and benefit from maximum speed at an attractive price,” explains Kay Hilbert, Product Owner for Global Tricot Machines at KARL MAYER. Featuring KARL MAYER’s proven CFRP technology, the TM 4 EL is up to 30% faster than the
previous four-bar tricot machine designed for the commodity sector.
This development has been very wellreceived on the market. When it was launched during a product show on the occasion of the ITMA ASIA from 19 to 23 November 2023 at KARL MAYER (CHINA) in Changzhou City, the newcomer certainly drew in the crowds. The displayed machine was even sold during the exhibition.
Guests from the fashion sector were particularly interested. Turkish customers appreciate the potential that the TM 4 EL represents as part of the scope to develop their business with major international brands. South American producers of apparel fabrics envisage opportunities to expand their cooperation with local brands. In particular, chic seersucker items are bringing the powerful machine with a
competitive price to the attention of trend-conscious fashion manufacturers.
About the TM 4 EL
The new TM 4 EL is offered in gauges E 28 and E 32. The available working widths are 210” and 280”, with a working width extension also available. Further width varieties are also planned. Equipment highlights include an integrated Laser Stop to detect yarn breakages early, and functional LED lighting, which illuminates the warp knitting area for easy handling and signals unplanned machine stops using the corresponding colour. The machine can be networked with KM.ON’s secure cloud via the k.ey device to utilise the KARL MAYER GROUP’s digital solutions. This includes, for example, the webbased lapping editor CORE LITE.
Innovation partnership Speidel and Mayer & Cie delighted by the idea of receiving live images of a fabric during the production process
A Mayer & Cie. knithawk has been in use for several months at the lingerie manufacturer Speidel in Bodelshausen. A tool for optical detection of fabric defects during the production process, knithawk is used by Speidel to gain experience with an MV4-3.2 II circular knitting machine with a 30-inch open width frame. An additional knithawk in Bodelshausen will soon help detect plating and other defects and call a halt to production before a fault finds its way into finished products. The two companies have collaborated closely for decades. Speidel mainly uses
Mayer & Cie. machines and in the current development partnership they are putting to the test the defect detection tool developed by the circular knitting machine expert. In this interview Speidel’s knitting line manager Matthias Wernet and Speidel director Scott Wernet report on their experiences with knithawk and its potential as they see it.
MCT: How many machines do you have in your knitting department and how much fabric do you manufacture on average daily?
Speidel: We operate 125 circular knitting machines with a daily output of four to five tons of fabric. We work three shifts and our output in 2023 was about 900 tons, a figure that depends partly on the fabric qualities.
Where are your focal points in the knitting sector?
We specialize in the production of body widths without a side seam, so we knit an undergarment in different sizes on different machines of the same type with different diameters.
Matthias Wernet, knitting line manager, Swenja Speidel and Scott Wernet (from left to right)..
What does your quality control look like? At which points in the knitting process do you carry out quality checks?
We have a fabric inspection machine on which we check about ten per cent of our daily output. The fabric can also relax on that machine and we can then prevent a Moiré effect. But the machine runs fast and you need a trained eye.
When we retool a circular knitting machine the first piece of fabric is always checked. We retool or retrofit about twenty machines a day, which involves a change of quality. Our tester works to a system by which she checks successively machines that are more error prone, such as older jacquard machines that drop stitches more frequently. We can’t check transfer machines because, due to the hole pattern, there is no system.
Have you installed special quality control systems?
We have installed a drop mesh guard, but it only works with hose and not with open width machines. We also have a system that checks needles and shuts down the machine if one is broken.
When or where do knitting faults normally come to light? Are there differences that depend on the kind of fault?
In theory always when a piece is cut off. Once a ten-kilogram bale has been knitted the knitter pulls out the first two or three metres and checks them.
Can
faults be made good
retroactively?
Once they are knitted, nothing more can be done. In the best case the fault is detected in the knitting department, in the worst case in the finished product that has undergone every process and has cost money.
After inspection in the knitting department the fabric goes to the finisher, where colleagues may draw our attention to faults. If they send fabric back, we tend to check colour, shrinkage and so on, but knitting faults are also identified there.
Where do you see potential for knithawk?
On the machine on which knithawk is installed, an MV4-3.2 II with a 30-inch open width frame, we make the highest quality fabric that costs about 30 euros
Apparel and Knitwear
per kilogram. That makes any fault costly. We also have in mind a new textile finisher who wants the material in a roll and not folded. We could then no longer check it in-house. The finisher has offered to check the finished fabric charging up to 50 cents per kilogram, which for our quantities adds up to a fair amount of money.
Using knithawk and its protocols the process outlined above enables us to carry out a goods inspection of our own. With knithawk we can also optimise our processes by leaving out individual steps or making them more transparent, thereby cutting costs and operating more economically. We have a lower reject rate, a faster throughput, and waste neither time nor energy on goods that will later be of poor quality.
How much do you estimate the cost of knitting faults to be in terms of losses due to rejects and subsequent error correction?
In euros that is hard to say. It depends on the qualities, the frequency of the fault and many other parameters. Let us take an example. For an order volume of 20 tons the machine makes two plating
What are the benefits of knithawk and how to make use of it? Speidel sees potential in terms of sustainability and efficiency increase.
Apparel and Knitwear
errors per ten-kilogram bale. That may not be many, but for the order volume it makes a difference. Fortunately, we usually see plating faults in the raw, unfinished fabric.
Knithawk detects faults during the knitting process. What has been your experience with this special system?
We were delighted from the outset by the idea of receiving live images of a fabric during production. That was not previously possible. As with any development, we face challenges. We still have too many software updates with the result that we don’t yet have lengthy error protocols. In addition, knithawk detects faults invisible to the human eye and switches the machine off. We have carried out many experiments imitating plating and needle faults and the system detects them and switches the machine off.
At the same time the machine has produced as good as no faults since it was equipped with knithawk. The knitter watches out like a lynx and the knitted fabric is perfect. You might imagine that knithawk controls not only the knitting machine.
Where do you see room for improvement?
There is still scope for improvement in software. Learning, for example, takes too long. When we retool a machine, the system must adjust to the new settings faster.
Can the system play a part in your sustainability strategy?
It certainly can, by enabling us to reduce the quantity of faulty goods and our entire carbon footprint.
Do monitoring systems of this kind to help ensure efficient/sustainable production already play any part in your customers’ perception? Do you see any potential for that in the future?
knithawk can be an important sales argument but one must bear in mind that the market is highly dependent on margins. Digitisation is another area in which knithawk has a part to play, but one that at the same time is still very much in its early days.
The majority of the about 125 circular kntítting machines at Speidel are a Mayer & Cie. make.
SHIMA SEIKI to Exhibit at Pitti
Filati 94
Shima Seiki Italia S.p.A., Italian subsidiar y of leading Japanese computerized knitting solutions provider SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD., will exhibit at the 94th edition of the Pitti Immagine Filati exhibition in Florence, Italy. It will exhibit as part of the CustomEasy section, which involves the concept of Fashion at Work and explores customization in the presence of textile machinery and design software, represented in part by SHIMA SEIKI's lineup of WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machines and APEXFiz® design software.
As pioneer of seam-free complete garment knitting, SHIMA SEIKI has been setting the standard almost exclusively with nearly 30 years of experience with its WHOLEGARMENT® knitting technology. WHOLEGARMENT® knitting has recently gained heavy interest from the apparel industry due to the shrinking workforce of skilled sewing and linking personnel. In this light SHIMA SEIKI intends to gain even more interest with its new SWG-XR® flagship machine that raises the benchmark for WHOLEGARMENT® knitting even further. SWG-XR® features 4 needle beds for all-needle knitting of high quality
WHOLEGARMENT® products using the company's original SlideNeedle™, in addition to a re-designed sinker system and a compact, light-weight carriage featuring 4 systems as well as auto yarn carriers. All contribute to increased productivity of more than 25% over the previous MACH2®XS machine, as well as increased product range using a wider variety of yarn for supporting knits for all seasons, and higher quality for knitting beautiful fabrics and silhouettes; even items that were impossible to knit with the MACH2® series, including punch-lace patterns, variable stitch knitting and intarsia knitting. Setting new standards for the next generation of waste-free, sustainable WHOLEGARMENT® knitting, SWG-XR® at Pitti Filati will be shown in 15L and 18L as well as a prototype machine in 22L.
APEXFiz® subscription-based design software supports the creative side of fashion from planning and design to colorway evaluation, realistic fabric simulation and 3D virtual sampling. Virtual samples are a digitized version of sample making that are accurate enough to be used effectively as prototypes. By replacing physical samples, virtual samples reduce time, cost and material that otherwise go to waste. APEXFiz®
thereby helps to realize sustainability and digitally transform the fashion supply chain.
The product planning capability of APEXFiz® is enhanced by several web services featured as part of the SHIMA SEIKI Online Services (SHIMA online) web platform. These include SHIMA Datamall™ digital content web service that allows users to search, browse and purchase a variety of useful data for streamlining the planning and production of fashion items, as well as the recently renewed yarnbank® digital yarn sourcing web service that offers digitized yarn data by yarn companies from around the world for download and use in virtual sampling. SHIMANAVI® e-learning system is also part of the online platform.
The booth also features several companies exhibiting in collaboration with SHIMA SEIKI, including yarn manufacturers, human resource development companies, factory automation software developers and more.
Continuing from past editions of Pitti Filati are knit samples produced in collaboration with Italian designer Vittorio Branchizio, as well as other knit samples including WHOLEGARMENT® knitwear.
