Pakistan Textile Journal, June 2022

Page 1

Established 1951 June 2022

Weaving / ITM 2022




Calendar of Events

INTEX SOUTH ASIA 2022

ITM 2022 Dates: June 14th to 18th, 2022. Venue: Istanbul, Turkey.

Dates: June 16th to 18th 2022. Venue: Dhaka, Bangladesh.

Cinte Techtextil China International Trade Fair for Technical Textiles and Nonwovens Dates: September 6th to 8th, 2022.

Dates: July 27th to 29th 2022. Venue: Colombo, Sri Lanka.

Venue: Shanghai New International Expo Centre, Shanghai, China

Dates: December 8th to 10th 2022. Venue: New Delhi, India.

HIGHTEX 2022 ITMA ASIA + CITME 2022

Dates: June 14th to 18th, 2022. Venue: Istanbul, Turkey.

Dates: November 20th to 24th, 2022. Venue: NECC, Shanghai, China.

DOMOTEX asiaCHINAFLOOR 2022 Dates: August 31th to Sep. 2nd 2022.

Techtextil 2022, Frankfurt Dates: June 21st to 24th, 2022

Venue: NECC, Shanghai, China.

DOMOTEX Hannover 2023

Venue: Frankfurt am Main.

Dates: January 12th to 15th 2023. Venue: Hannover, Germany.

Heimtextil 2022, Frankfurt

IGATEX Pakistan 2022, Lahore

Dates: June 21st to 24th, 2022

Dates: September 1st to 4th 2022.

Venue: Frankfurt am Main.

Venue: Expo Centre, Lahore.

Istanbul Yarn Fair Dates: February 16th to 18th 2023. Venue: Istanbul, Turkey.

Texworld Paris th

iCADEX Pakistan 2022, Lahore th

Dates: July 4 to 6

2022.

Dates: September 1st to 4th 2022.

Venue: Paris

Venue: Expo Centre, Lahore.

Index 2023 Dates: April 18th to 21th, 2023. Venue: Palexpo, Geneva, Switzerland.

Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles th

Dates: August 15 to 17

th

Venue: Shanghai, China.

2

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2022

2022.

Textile Asia 2022, Faisalabad Dates: October 29th to 31th 2022. Venue: Quilim Marquee, Canal Road Faisalabad, Pakistan

ITMA 2023 Dates: June 8th to 14th, 2023. Venue: Milan, Italy.



Founded in 1951 by Mazhar Yusuf (1924-2009) Vol. LXXI No. 06 June 2022

Publisher Nadeem Mazhar Editor in Chief Amina Baqai

Rs. 565.00

EDITOR’S PAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 Pakistan has become denim hub in the region in less than a decade and is now

Associate Editor Dr. Noor Ahmed Memon

one of the leading suppliers

Associate Editor Nimrah Nadeem

TEXTILE BRIEFS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Associate Editor Shahnawaz Khan

NEWS & VIEWS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Production Manager Mazhar Ali

AROUND THE WORLD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Hony-Editorial Board

CORPORATE NEWS

Dr. Hafizur Rehman Sheikh Ph.D (UK) F.T.I. (UK)

Shareholders approve all resolutions via the Independent Proxy . . . . . . . . . . .18 BB Engineering shortlisted for Plastics Recycling Awards Europe . . . . . . . . . . .20 Trützschler sets ambitious targets for climate neutrality . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22

Syed Mahfooz Qutab C.TEX, F.T.I (U.K), B.Sc. Fellow I.C.T.T Atlanta, GA; (USA)

RadiciGroup closes 2021 with positive results. Continued focus on sizeable investments in innovation and sustainability. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

Mian Iftkhar Afzal B.S.N.C State, M.Sc. (Leeds) C.TEXT.F.T.I (UK)

Dr. Zubair Bandukda PhD (Textiles), CText ATI

Editorial & Advertising Office B-4, 2nd Floor, 64/21, M.A.C.H, Miran M. Shah Road, Karachi - Pakistan Tel: +92-21-34311674-5 Fax: +92-21-34533616 Email: info@ptj.com.pk URL: http://www.ptj.com.pk

PTJ Europe Ltd. Correspondence & Mailing address: PTJ Europe Ltd. 93 Fleming Place, Bracknell, RG12 2GN, United Kingdom Tel: +44 792 2228 721

17

22

DYES AND CHEMICALS Archroma bridges the gap between art and science with a ready-to-use swatch book dedicated to its DEEP DIVE sustainable dyeing system for dark, popular color basics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Huntsman to highlight solutions for highly sustainable, high-performance outdoor

Registered Office: Dairy House, Money Row Green, Holyport, Maidenhead, Berkshire, SL6 2ND, UK Registered no. 09141989

wear at outdoor retailer summer 2022 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28

FAIRS AND EXHIBITIONS Stage set for 9th Intex South Asia – Bangladesh Edition in June 2022 in Dhaka . . . .30

Available on Gale and Factiva affiliated international databases through Asianet Pakistan

Printed at: Color Plus Korangi, Karachi. Published by Nadeem Mazhar from D-16, K.D.A. Scheme No.1. Karachi.

30


32 FEATURES Catering for diversity – Monforts at Techtextil North America . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 About the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34

34

Card C 80: High Productivity with a Challenging Raw Material . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36

MILL REPORT YARNMASTER® PRISMA for clear reasons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Kohinoor Textile Mills Limited Relies on Unique Technology

WEAVING Pakistan has become a Denim Hub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 by Prof. Dr. Noor Ahmed Memon, Dadabhoy Institute of Higher Education.

Inauguration of Groz-Beckert’s first weaving showroom in India . . . . . . . . . . . .44 ITEMA: Cutting-Edge innovations and a complete range of weaving solutions at ITM 2022 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46

36

TEXO Compfelt looms – built to scale, and built to last . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48 Vandewiele Bonas shows JIL Jacquard at ITM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49 Karlmayer presents more efficiency and less environmental impact in warp preparation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49 One-stop source for warp feeding and weaving preparation . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 Crealet partnerships offer added value and extended range

ITM ISTANBUL 2022 Mayer & Cie. at the ITM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51 ITM in Istanbul: Saurer Spinning Solutions presents innovations in

34

intelligent spinning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52 DiloGroup at ITM + Hightex 2022

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54

®

MESDAN the Italy-based leading manufacturer of Yarn Joining Solutions and Laboratory Testing Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55

52

68



EDITOR’S PAGE

Pakistan has become denim hub in the region in less than a decade and is now one of the leading suppliers The exports of textile commodities continue to show remarkable growth during the first 11 months of the current fiscal year as compared to the corresponding period of the last year.

Established 1951 June 2022

Weaving / ITM 2022

Pakistan’s textile exports seem to have largely recovered from the Covid-19 pandemic shocks and are still growing. Export of cotton denim fabrics from Pakistan increased from 408 million square metres worth Rs 66 billion in 2019-20 to 181 million square metres worth Rs. 73 billion in 2020-21, thus showing an increase of 12% in terms of value. Bangladesh, Turkey, Egypt, Sri Lanka, Italy and Cambodia are the major markets for denim fabrics exports from Pakistan. The global market value of denim fabric was US$ 90 billion in 20 and was expected to increase to US$105 billion by 2023. Denim or blue jeans are by far the most valuable product in the denim industry, though there has been an increase in value for every type of denim clothing item.

June 2022.

Western wear, a style of clothing originating from the 19th century American old west region, uses a large amount of denim. As such, the market value of western wear was also projected to increase through 2023, to reach a value of US$ 99 billion. At present, the major manufacturers countries of denim fabric are concentrated in China, India and Pakistan. The denim jeans are a specific type of trousers which are made of denim or dungaree cloth. The denim jeans are one of the most significant parts of the clothing and apparel industry. Increasing demand for denim jeans products is further expected to impact the global market growth of denim jeans positively. Pakistan has become denim hub in the region in less than a decade and is considered one of the leading suppliers of quality denim fabric to the world's known brands for the garments. Denim fabric has been developed and over the last few years; there is rapid growth and expansion in its use and production capacity in Pakistan. There are about 40 major players in the denim industry of Pakistan. Some of them, like Artistic Fabric Mills, Pak Denim Limited, Al-Ameen Denim Mills Limited, S.M Denim Mills Ltd, Denim International, Classic Denim, Rajby Industries, Soorty, etc. are producing more than 50 million square metres of finished denim fabrics monthly. Bangladesh, Turkey, Egypt, Sri Lanka and Italy are the major markets for denim fabrics exports from Pakistan. With about 207 million sq. meters of cotton denim fabric being exported to Bangladesh in 2019-20, it is a major market for Pakistan. The world's top denim fabric exporting country in 2020 was China while the top denim fabric importing country was Bangladesh. Mexico was the largest supplier of denim jeans to the USA while Bangladesh was the largest supplier of denim jeans to the EU. America tops the list of denim jeans users and an average estimate puts the figure at 450 million pairs a year. The top global denim fabric exporting countries are China, Hong Kong, Turkey, Italy, Pakistan India, Spain and Brazil.

7


Textile Briefs National

Exports of cotton yarn

1

from the country during the 10 months

of the current financial year grew by 22.11pc as compared to the exports of the corresponding period of last

Several textile indus-

3

tries across Punjab have been shut down

amid the closure of the gas supply. The SNGPL confirmed to the media that gas sup-

The government has

5

decided to offer incentives to the farmers to

enable them to switch over from the water-intensive sugarcane crop to cotton production in a bid to rely less

year. During the period from

plied to captive power plants

on cotton imports and

July-April, 2021-22, about

of the textile mills has been

enhance textile exports amid

284,670 metric tons of

suspended.

a rapidly widening trade

Pakistan’s textile exports are set to dramatically dip as the sector is hobbled by a nationwide energy crisis forcing daily power cuts on factories, with an industry leader warning about “a state of emergency” for the manufacturing hub.

7

in the same period last year,

under review, compared to

cotton in Punjab and Sindh is

showing a significant slow-

$13.76 billion in the same

between Rs 21,000 to Rs

down in growth.

months of last.

22,000 per maund.

A delegation of Trade and Investment Officers posted in Pakistan’s missions abroad for promoting exports and foreign direct investment visited PHMA House to seek suggestions from apparel exporters for trade expansion abroad with made in Pakistan tag.

Cotton Exporters Association (ANES) - are exploring trade opportunities in Bangladesh,

Cambodia will eliminate duties on 93.8 percent of imported goods.

The textile industry in China is the largest in the world in overall production, exports, and retail, with an output of 58 million tons a year in the fiber categories alone, accounting for more than 50 percent of the world’s total; with textile and garment exports of $316 billion.

Denmark’s Novozymes has launched bio-polishing for manmade cellulosic fibers (MMCF) with Fiber life. It minimizes fuzz and pilling in viscose, modal, and lyocell. Bio polishing uses enzymes to remove loose fiber ends, leaving a clean, new-looking surface, which lasts for at least 60 washes.

cotton yarn valuing $1.006b exported. The textile sector grew

2

by 3.2% during JulyMarch in the fiscal year

2021-22 as compared to 8%

Pakistan’s textile

4

exports surged 28 percent to $17.67 billion

in July-May of this fiscal, the highest ever for the period

deficit. The local cotton

6

market remained steady and the trading

volume remained low. Cotton Analyst told that the rate of

8

Textile Briefs International

Australia has reportedly expressed interest to develop a manufacturing hub in Bangladesh and buy back goods to be produced there or export to European and other countries. This was discussed at the meeting under the Trade and Investment Framework Arrangement (TIFA) in Canberra.

1

Ghana has signed an agreement with the Chinese fast-fashion brand Shein to improve textile waste management. The $15 million partnership will run for three years and will help limit the health and environmental risks of the fashion industry.

2

Armenia’s industrial output in the first 4 months of 2022 grew by 2.6% from the same

3 8

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2022

period of 2021 to about 754.7 billion drams (in current prices), the National Statistical Committee (NSC) said recently. The output of the processing industry increased by 10.1% to 428 billion drams. The Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA) recently asked the government to reconsider the revised source tax on exported products in the proposed budget for fiscal 202223 (FY23).

4

Brazil is trying to increase its cotton export to Bangladesh to expand the global market of the item. Two Brazilian trade bodies - Brazilian Cotton Growers Association (ABRAPA) and Brazilian

5

6

8

The Cambodia-Korea Free Trade Agreement (CKFTA) was signed into law in Cambodia in January 2022 and is expected to be ratified by June 2022. The CKFTA should boost trade between the two countries with South Korea agreeing to remove tariffs on 95.6 percent of products imported from Cambodia while

UK’s Worn Again Technologies (WAT) has launched the Swiss Textile Recycling Ecosystem. Bringing together key industry players, the initiative will support the creation of a circular economy based on WAT’s innovative polymer recycling technology. 

7

9



Cotton yarn worth $1.006b exported in 10 months Exports of cotton yarn from the country during 10 months of current financial year grew by 22.11pc as compared the exports of the corresponding period of last year. During the period from July-April, 2021-22, about 284,670 metric tons of cotton yarn valuing $1.006b exported as against the exports of 327,519 metric tons worth $832.952m of same period last year, according the data of Pakistan Bureau of Statistics. Meanwhile, cotton cloth valuing $2.00b also exported in last 10 months of current financial year as compared the exports of $1.581b of same period of last year, it added.During the period under review, exports of yarn other than cotton yarn also witnessed 100pc increase as 17,533 metric tons of yarn other than cotton valuing $54.016m exported as compared the exports of 11,797 metric tons worth $26.997m of same period last year.In last 10 month of current financial year country earned $4.218b by exporting about 135,968 thousand dozens of knitwear as against the exports of $3.212b and 502,093 thousand dozens of same period last year. It is worth mentioning here that textile group exports from the country during last 10

10

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2022

months of current financial year grew by 25.96pc and reached to $15.981b as against $12.688b of same period last year.

Economic Survey 2021-22 shows textile sector's growth slows to 3.2% The textile sector, which has the highest weight in the Large Scale Manufacturing, grew by 3.2% during July-March in fiscal year 2021-22 as compared to 8% in the same period last year, showing a significant slowdown in growth, according to the Economic

Survey 2021-22 unveiled recently. Textile sector's weight has been reduced from 20.9 to 18.16% in QIM 2015-16 but it is still the highest among all sectors of LSM. Major growth originated from woolen segment production with the highest surge of 38.9% in blankets, 27.9% growth in woolen and carpet yarn, and 19.1% in woolen worsted cloth. Production of yarn and cloth showed marginal growth of 0.7% and 0.3%, respectively. Wearing apparel has been separated from the textile sector with 6.08 weight in the LSM. It showed a significant growth of 34% against the contraction of


35.6%. The sector has gained traction locally as well as in the international market as garments production grew at 34% during the period. The export of garments also escalated with 33.9% growth in terms of quantity. Textile is the most important manufacturing sector of Pakistan and has the longest production chain, with inherent potential for value addition at each stage of processing, from cotton to ginning, spinning, fabric, dyeing and finishing, made-ups and garments. This sector contributes nearly one-fourth of industrial value-added and provides employment to about 40% of the industrial labour force. Barring seasonal and cyclical fluctuations, textiles products have maintained an average share of about 61.24% in national exports. Meanwhile, the export of knitwear showed a contraction of 4.8% in quantity terms, while it increased by 34.1% in terms of value during the period under review. The ready-made garment industry has emerged as one of the important small-scale industries in Pakistan and is a good source of providing employment opportunities to many people at a very low capital investment. Owing to huge potential and demand, its exports show a massive growth of 33.9% in quantity and 26.2% in value from 27.8 million dozen to 37.3 million dozen worth $2.8 billion as compared to $2.27 billion for the same period last year. Exports in the towel sector stood at $819.6 million against $692.1 million, showing an increase of 18.4% in terms of value and 5.1% in terms of quantity. Meanwhile, Pakistan exported synthetic textile fabrics worth $343.59 million as compared to $269.20 million the same period last year - showing an increase of 27.6%. In quantitative terms, the exports of synthetic textile decreased by 33.6%.

Implementation of providing cheap electricity to textile sector hailed Chief Executive Officer Pakistan Furniture Council Mian Kashif Ashfaq hailed the role of Federal Tax Ombudsman Dr Asif Mahmood Jah in implementation of the Economic Coordination Committee decision of providing cheap electricity to textile sector. Talking to a delegation of young educated women led by Ambreen Noor from Depalpur district Okara, he said the ECC in principle had approved for providing cheap electricity and gas to textile industry to boost exports but Federal Board Revenue didn’t implement in time without any plausible reason that caused immense loss to national kitty besides hitting the exports targets in this period. He said textile sector approached FTO Advisor Dr Sarfraz Ahmad Warraich who summoned FBR senior officials for not honouring ECC decision.


News & Views

FBR pleaded that ECC decision was conditional subject to submission of APTMA recommendations. Mian Kashif Ashfaq said that FTO taking strong exception to the negligence of FBR where genuine case was stuck up despite the completion of all codal formalities directed the FBR to implement the ECC decision forthwith rejecting their point of views besides terming the extraordinary delay as mismanagement. He said finally, intervention of FTO prevailed and FBR issued notification in this regard which will also apply to such identical all applications. He said entire business community is proud of the meritorious services being rendered by FTO in mitigating the sufferings of tax payers without acquiring the service of any lawyer within sixty days.

Textile factories starting to close as they stop receiving gas Several textile industries across Punjab have been shut down amid the closure of the gas supply. Sui Northern said that the supply was suspended for two days, however, it still has not resumed. According to the details, the gas shortage was created owing to a delay in the purchase of imported LNG. A spokesman for the Sui Northern

12

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2022

Gas Pipeline Limited (SNGPL) confirmed to the media that gas supplied to captive power plants of the textile mills has been suspended. On the other hand, the Oil and Gas Regulatory Authority (OGRA) has proposed a 45 percent increase in gas prices from July. In addition to gas closure, the textile industry has also faced power cuts. The Lahore Electric Supply Company (LESCO) ended exemption to the industry while issuing a four-hour load management plan with effect from June 03, 2022. Important to note that it had previously claimed that it will provide an uninterrupted energy supply to the textile industry. However, it abandoned its policy for textile industries.

Textile exports rise 28pc to $17.67bn in July-Mar Pakistan’s textile exports surged 28 percent to $17.67 billion in July-May of this fiscal, the highest ever for the period under review, compared to $13.76 billion in the same months of last, the industry reported recently, warning the severe energy constraints were a major risk to the future growth of the sector. All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) data showed the exports of textile goods posted 59 percent growth to $1.69 billion in May 2022 against

$1.06 billion in May last. “Despite the significant growth in the textile exports, the gas/RLNG supply to the Punjab textile sector, which was at only 25 percent of required volumes (50 percent of August to November actual consumption), was shut down two days prior with the guarantee that supply would be restored on the morning of Friday June 3, 2022,” the APTMA said in a statement. However, it has now been stated that the gas/RLNG supply will not be restored for an indefinite period, the trade body said. “In the wake of energy supply constraints, the production of textile production has decreased by$300-400 million every month from November 2021 till date owing to which the textile exports are most likely not to touch the target of $20 billion rather exports will hover around at $19.6 billion,” Executive Director of APTMA told media. APTMA Chairman Rahim Nasir in the trade body’s statement said tragedy was that even with a 59 percent increase of textile exports in May 2022 exports were not being given their due importance. “Gas/RLNG is being continuously supplied to non-export industries – ceramics, glassware, steel etc. and not the export sector, against all economic rationale.”


Nasir said the government’s decision to halt the supply of gas/RLNG to exporters was highly illogical as it was a critical input to textiles, the single largest contributor to Pakistan’s exports and the mainstay of Pakistan’s economic future. The sector has sizable investments in state-of-the-art machinery and high efficiency generation, with over $5 billion worth of investments for expansion and modernization made in the last one and a half years, said the APTMA chief. “The potential losses thus accruing to the shutdown of gas/RLNG supply are phenomenal. On the contrary, the industry can bring substantial economic benefit from enhanced exports if the stable and consistent supply of gas/RLNG is guaranteed.”

Cotton market remains steady, trading volume low The local market is remained steady and the trading volume remained low. Cotton Analyst Naseem Usman told that rate of cotton in Punjab and Sindh is in between Rs 21,000 to Rs 22,000 per maund. He also told that spot rate witnessed a decrease of Rs 1,500 per maund in three days. Punjab Governor Muhammad Baligh-urRehman has underscored the need to work on high quality cotton seeds in order to promote the textile industry and get maximum yield. He said this while talking to a delegation of Cotton Ginners Association (CGA) who called on him at Governor’s House. The delegation included Chairman Pakistan Cotton Ginners Association Sohail Ahmed Hurl, senior vice-chairman Mukesh Kumar and others. During the meeting, the delegation apprised the Governor of the problems faced by the cotton ginners. Talking on the occasion, the Governor said that textile sector has an important role to play in the country’s exports and economy; increase in exports of textile products would strengthen the country’s economy. He said that cotton and allied products provide lot of foreign exchange to the country. Sohail Ahmed Hurl said on the occasion that the previous government had imposed 17% tax on cotton seeds, cotton seeds’ oil and raw cotton which affected the production of cotton crop, adding good production of cotton crop will bolster the country’s economy. Pakistan faces potential economic collapse as inflation jumps and widespread civil unrest could be nearing. The latest sign the South Asian country is spiraling into the abyss is rising electricity costs that threaten to close tens of thousands of businesses. International media reported that as many as 40,000 factories in Karachi, the country’s commercial capital, are being slapped with high power costs that make operating near impossible. Rising power costs are so severe that nine business groups in Karachi told the government that an immediate plan needs to be formulated to lower power costs or face economic disaster. Any shuttering of factories and mass layoffs could trigger social unrest in the commercial capital, home to more than 16 million people.


AUSTRALIA Australia keen to develop manufacturing hub in Bangladesh Australia has reportedly expressed interest to develop a manufacturing hub in Bangladesh and buy back goods to be produced there or export to European and other countries. Australian businesses will provide inputs like wool, cotton, timber, meat, hides and grains to Bangladeshi industrialists, who will produce goods and re-export to Australia or Europe. This was discussed at the first joint working group meeting under the Trade and Investment Framework Arrangement (TIFA) held late last month in Canberra. Both countries will facilitate industry connections between Australian exporters of agricultural raw materials and Bangladesh importers and manufacturers, the meeting decided. It was also decided that both sides will jointly identify the opportunities for Australian producers and Bangladesh manufacturers to engage with global value chains, according to Bangladeshi media reports. Canberra agreed to continue to connect Bangladesh and Australian business chambers through its high commission in Dhaka for encouraging commercial ties between enterprises.

14

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2022

Trade officials in Dhaka said Canberra has pledged continuation of duty-free and quota-free (DFQF) market access of Bangladesh products to the Australian market even after Bangladesh's leaving the least developed countries club in 2026. Trade between the two countries now hovers around $1.5 billion.

AFRICA GHANA: Shein pledges $15m for the development of sustainable fashion by 2025 In Ghana, the Gold Foundation, an environmental organization, has signed an agreement with the Chinese fastfashion brand Shein to improve textile waste management. The $15 million partnership will run for three years and will help limit the health and environmental risks of the fashion industry. With the second-hand clothing trade generating 160 tonnes of textile waste every day in Ghana, the Gold Foundation, an environmental organisation, is receiving $15 million (more than 118 billion Ghanaian cedis) from the Chinese ready-to-wear brand Shein to develop sustainable fashion by 2025. The money, spread over three years, will support the industry’s waste

management efforts in local communities overrun by textile waste. This support is part of Shein’s Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) Fund, which aims to strengthen sustainability strategies in the textile industry. “The resources will be used to expand our Mabilgu (sisterhood) apprenticeship programme for young women wearing bales of second-hand clothes on their heads, to incubate community-based businesses turning textile waste into new products, to pilot fibre processing initiatives with Ghanaian textile manufacturers.

BANGLADESH Bangladesh's knitwear makers urge govt to reconsider new source tax The Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA) recently asked the government to reconsider the revised source tax on exported products in the proposed budget for fiscal 2022-23 (FY23). BKMEA executive president Mohammad Hatem expressed over the rise in the source tax from 0.5 per cent to 1 per cent against exports. In a video message sent to the media, he said the price of raw materials, transport and freight costs have


witnessed a sharp hike after the pandemic and the ongoing Russia-Ukraine war has made the situation further volatile. “There is no logic regarding this rise in such a volatile global situation. So, we are making a polite request to the government to reconsider it,” he was quoted as saying by Bangladeshi media reports. “Production costs have risen significantly but we are not getting the fair price from the buyers accordingly,” he added. Last week, finance minister AHM Mustafa Kamal presented the proposed budget in the parliament.

CHINA China’s Textile Industry — From Big to Strong The textile industry in China is the largest in the world in overall production, exports and retail, with an output of 58 million tons a year in the fiber categories alone, accounting for more than 50 percent of the world’s total; with textile and garment exports of $316 billion, accounting for more than a third of global shipments, and a retail scale of more than $672 billion, with online retailing of about $298.9 billion. Behind these figures is China’s massive textile industry supply. Its success is based on a solid foundation and ongoing innovation, developing new technologies and green strategies, understanding global and local industry trends, and extensive investment in R&D, consumer-oriented personalization and flexible production. China has ranked as the world’s largest manufacturer for 11 consecutive years since 2010 and is the only country playing a major role in all industrial categories. According to data from the Chinese Academy of Engineering, five of China’s 26 manufacturing industries are at the world’s most advanced level, with the textile industry helping to lead the way.


Around the World CAMBODIA The Cambodia-South Korea Free Trade Agreement: Increasing Potential for Downstream Sectors The Cambodia-South Korea Free Trade Agreement can help boost Cambodian exports of garments, textiles, and footwear to South Korea. The agreement also presents opportunities for value-added investments in Cambodia’s downstream processing industries through a ‘plus one business model’, in which South Korean companies could expand their supply chain network developed in not only China but also Vietnam or Thailand. The Cambodia-Korea Free Trade Agreement (CKFTA) was signed into law in Cambodia in January 2022 and is expected to be ratified by June 2022.The CKFTA should boost trade between the two countries with South Korea agreeing to remove tariffs on 95.6 percent of products imported from Cambodia while Cambodia will eliminate duties on 93.8 percent of imported goods. Cambodia-South Korea bilateral trade was valued at US$885 million in 2020 and grew by nine percent to US$965 million in 2021 (bilateral trade had reached over US$1 billion before the pandemic). Further, Cambodia imported over US$600 million from South Korea in 2021 while exports reached US$341 million to the East Asian nation.

INDIA Cotton price rally could lift Indian planting to record high Cotton planting in India, the world's biggest producer of the fibre, could jump as much as 15% in 2022 to an all-time high, as strong prices prompt farmers to switch away from other crops, an industry association said. Higher output could help cool the rally in global and local cotton prices, which is hurting Asian apparel makers. Area planted to cotton in India could rise as much as 15% from last year because the crop is providing far better returns than alternatives, said Atul Ganatra, president of the Cotton Association of India. Local prices have more than doubled over the past year, because heavy rainfall during harvesting slashed 2021's crop to the lowest level in a decade.

A 15% rise in India's cotton crop area would lift it to around 13.8 million hectares in 2022 from 12 million hectares last year. The association expects the largest expansions in cotton area to be in the western states of Gujarat and Maharashtra, which together account for nearly half of the country's production.

UNITED KINGDOM UK's Worn Again launches Swiss Textile Recycling Ecosystem UK’s Worn Again Technologies (WAT) has launched the Swiss Textile Recycling Ecosystem. Bringing together key industry players, the initiative will support the creation of a circular economy based on WAT’s innovative polymer recycling technology. WAT aims to replace the use of virgin resources by recapturing raw materials from non-reusable products. The Swiss Textile Recycling Ecosystem is a network comprising fabric and textile manufacturers, waste collectors and sorters, as well as retailers, brand owners and technology providers. To cause a paradigm shift in the fashion industry and realise true circularity requires all members of the value chain to be on the same page and working towards the same goals. All these parties will cooperate to make their shared sustainability vision for the sector a reality, WAT said in a press release. The partners will provide different types of textile waste to WAT’s demonstration plant, which will process 1000 tonnes of material per year and is

16

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2022


Around the World VIETNAM Vietnam's garment-textile exports to EU up by 34.6% in Jan-May 2022

being built near the WAT’s technology scale-up partner, Sulzer Chemtech. After advanced chemical processing, virgin-like recycled fibres, such as polyethylene terephthalate (PET) and cellulose, will be provided to the same industry players to produce new high-quality fabrics. More precisely, the consortium will be composed of WAT’s main shareholders, Sulzer, Oerlikon, and H&M group. In addition, Rieter will support short-staple spinning, Monosuisse will take care of PET fibre production, Coop will act as retailer, TEXAID will manage collection, sorting, and provide feedstock together with Sallmann (ISA) and Serge Ferrari – all coordinated by Swiss Textiles.

The creation of Swiss Textile Recycling Ecosystem marks a key milestone in the upscaling of WAT’s recycling process technology. It also supports its ambition to create a circular economy where nonreusable, hard-to-recycle textiles can be reintroduced into supply chains to become new fibres, textiles and other products, according to WAT. The construction of WAT’s first demonstration plant will start this year in Winterthur, Switzerland. This represents a crucial step towards upscaling and commercializing the company’s recycling process technology.

Vietnam’s exports to the European Union (EU) grew further between January and May this year, with a trade surplus of $13.4 billion—up by nearly 47 per cent, thanks to their bilateral free trade agreement. Exports of garments and textiles and footwear rose as well, and were up by 34.6 per cent and 19 per cent during the period respectively. The general statistics office (GSO) said that Vietnam’s export expanded despite lingering impacts of the pandemic and the Russia-Ukraine war that have pushed material and fuel costs, a news agency reported. Vietnam-EU trade exceeded $57 billion last year, an increase of 14.5 per cent year on year as businesses have known how to maximize the deal. Vietnam is now the EU’s biggest trade partner in the Association of Southeast Asian Nations and among the top 10 largest goods suppliers of the market.


Corporate News

Shareholders approve all resolutions via the Independent Proxy     

Dividend payout of CHF 0.35 per share was approved Prof. Dr. Michael Süss was re-elected as the Chairman of the Board Zhenguo Yao was elected as a new Board Member All Board Members who stood for reelection were voted in All members of the Human Resources Committee (HRC) who stood for reelection were voted in. Irina Matveeva and Zhenguo Yao were elected as new members of the HRC

A total of 68.05% of share capital were represented at the 49th Annual General Meeting of Shareholders (AGM) via the authority that was granted by shareholders to the Independent Proxy, Proxy Voting Services GmbH. Shareholders did not attend the AGM in person in line with the ordinance from the Swiss Federal Council as a measure to combat the Coronavirus (Covid-19). Following the instructions given to the Independent Proxy, all resolutions were approved, including the maximum aggregate of total compensation of the Board for their term of office (AGM 2022 to AGM 2023), the maximum aggregate of fixed compensation of the Executive Committee (EC) for the period July 1, 2022 through June 30, 2023, the

18

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2022

retrospective additional fixed compensation for the EC for the period July 1, 2021 until June 30, 2022 and the retrospective variable compensation of the EC for 2021, as well as the dividend payout of CHF 0.35 per share. Prof. Dr. Michael Süss was re-elected as the Chairman of the Board of Directors. Mr. Zhenguo Yao was elected as a new member of the Board, while Paul Adams, Jürg Fedier, Irina Matveeva, Alexey V. Moskov and Gerhard Pegam were all re-elected as members of the Board. Furthermore, shareholders approved the re-election of Paul Adams, Alexey V. Moskov and Gerhard Pegam as members of the HRC and the election of Irina Matveeva and Zhenguo Yao as new members of the HRC. All elected Board members will serve a one-year term. All voting results from Oerlikon’s 2022 AGM can be found at https://www.oerlikon.com/agm. Further information and the short biographies of all Board Members can be found at www.oerlikon.com.

About Oerlikon Oerlikon (SIX: OERL) is a global innovation powerhouse for surface engineering, polymer processing and

Prof. Dr. Michael Süss additive manufacturing. The Group’s solutions and comprehensive services, together with its advanced materials, improve and maximize the performance, function, design and sustainability of its customers’ products and manufacturing processes in key industries. Pioneering technology for decades, everything Oerlikon invents and does is guided by its passion to support customers’ goals and foster a sustainable world. Headquartered in Pfäffikon, Switzerland, the Group operates its business in two Divisions – Surface Solutions and Polymer Processing Solutions. It has a global footprint of more than 11 800 employees at 207 locations in 38 countries and generated sales of CHF 2.65 billion in 2021.



Corporate News

3D Rendering of VacuFil® Visco+ for fiber-to-fiber inline recycling

BB Engineering shortlisted for Plastics Recycling Awards Europe BB Engineering has been shortlisted for the prestigious Plastics Recycling Awards Europe 2022 for the category Recycling Machinery Innovation with its PET recycling line VacuFil® Visco+ for fiber-to-fiber inline recycling. “We are still a recycling newcomer and are therefore particularly proud that our technology has already convinced so far that we are now among the finalists. Our origin lies in extrusion, filtration and spinning technology. We have incorporated our decades of know-how in these fields into the development of our VacuFil® Visco+ process. We have succeeded in developing a fiber-to-fiber recycling process that produces highquality rPET yarn. Being named a finalist is already a great achievement for us.” said Mr. Matthias Schmitz, Head of Engineering Recycling Technology. BB Engineering GmbH (BBE) is a German machine building company founded in 1997 as a joint venture between Oerlikon Barmag, a subsidiary of Oerlikon Textile GmbH & Co. KG, and Brückner Group GmbH. Today, the company employs more than 160 members of staff at its location in Remscheid, Germany. BBE is the

20

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2022

exclusive supplier of its mother companies for extrusion systems, melt filtration technology, recycling technology (VacuFil® Visco+), compact spinning technology (VarioFil®) and air-texturized yarn (ATY) technology. Beyond that, the entire portfolio is offered to third parties within the plastics and textile industry. The process presented as part of the award is the combined VacuFil® Visco+ with VarioFil®. This machinery enables the textile industry to perform closed-loop inline recycling of post-consumer polyester (PET) textile waste. The given recycling technology is a thermomechanical recycling process optimized for the textile industry. Key component here is the liquid state polycondensation reactor, known as Visco+, to adjust the intrinsic viscosity. Compared to existing fiber recycling processes, which address rather less demanding textile applications and don’t include subsequent spinning, BBE’s solution is a whole-in-one process that enables the textile industry to perform closed-loop inline recycling of post-consumer PET fiber waste even into high-tech textile yarns with low dpfvalues.

Mr. Matthias Schmitz, Head of Engineering Recycling Technology

The Plastics Recycling Awards Europe 2022 winners will be announced on 23 June, during the second day of the Plastics Recycling Show Europe taking place at the RAI Amsterdam. Open to organisations and individuals across Europe who are involved in the recycling of plastic materials, the Plastics Recycling Awards Europe are organised jointly by Plastics Recyclers Europe (PRE) and Crain Communications, organisers of the Plastics Recycling Show Europe.



Corporate News

Our production processes are transformed to minimize our environmental impact.

Trützschler sets ambitious targets for climate neutrality Trützschler is taking action! We are now striving to achieve three specific and measurable targets that will support our impact on the biggest challenge our planet has ever faced. Our commitment For over 130 years, Trützschler has provided resource-efficient technologies for customers worldwide. As a familyowned company, we’ve always placed a strong focus on ensuring sustainability for future generations. Today, that focus is sharper than ever – because our planet’s precious climate is changing. In response, Trützschler is taking decisive action to further minimize our environmental impact and maximize our contribution to sustainability. Our actions are focused around three specific targets for cutting emissions: 1) Reduction of CO2 emissions by 50 % at our headquarters in Mönchengladbach, Germany, by 2025 2) Climate-neutrality* at all Trützschler locations in Germany by 2030 3) Climate-neutrality* at all Trützschler locations worldwide by 2035

22

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2022

By pursuing these ambitious targets, we are going to transform our business. Trützschler’s global teams are now stepping up efforts to accelerate innovative energy management approaches, our shift to renewable power and more sustainable logistics processes. “The shareholders of the Trützschler Group SE set these goals for climate neutrality as part of our commitment to protecting the planet and secure the long-term success of our company”, says Charlotte Fontaine, Deputy Chief Spokesperson for the Hans Trützschler family. Florian Schürenkrämer, Deputy Chief Spokesperson for the Hermann Trützschler family, adds: “That commitment has been a central part of our identity for more than 130 years – and we, the fifth generation of shareholders, are excited about taking the next steps forward in this long tradition.”

Our contribution How are we going to achieve our sustainability targets? With our technologies, our processes and our people! Trützschler’s technologies save resources, cut waste and reduce emissions for customers worldwide. Our own production processes are shaped by our passion for energy savings and resource-efficiency. And our people and partners actively promote a safer and more sustainable future. Together, these three factors will contribute to tangible results in our commitment to promoting environmental and social progress.

Our technologies Innovations from Trützschler support the textile industry in becoming more sustainable. Our WASTECONTROL system, for example, features sensors that help to make sure every fiber is used.


Corporate News Specially designed machines and equipment from Trützschler also support the transition to a circular economy by making it possible to produce yarn by recycling old material, production waste, or even plastic bottles. And our Wetlaid/Spunlace technologies support the production of fully biodegradable wet wipes that are made from pulp and cellulose.

Our processes Our production facilities are designed to maximize sustainability, and we constantly seek ways to further reduce energy consumption and boost resource efficiency. We go beyond regulatory expectations, and proactively integrate environmental considerations into every aspect of our business. This involves using renewable energy from sources like solar panels, wind turbines and hydropower. We also operate a continuous improvement approach to cut waste in our value chain. We are investing in climate-friendly logistics processes such as our fleet of low-emissions company cars. All Trützschler sites are certified in line with the ISO 50001 standard for energy management, and we are a partner of the Blue Competence sustainability initiative from the Mechanical Engineering Industry Association (VDMA).

Florian Schürenkrämer, Deputy Chief Spokesperson for the Hermann Trützschler family (left), and Charlotte Fontaine, Deputy Chief Spokesperson for the Hans Trützschler family (right).

Our employees As a family-owned company, our business is shaped by a firm belief in the importance of creating a sustainable future for generations to come. Health and safety are our top priority at all times. We provide a working environment with flat hierarchies and fast decision-making – where strong values define our leadership approach. And we empower our people

to learn and grow throughout their career via targeted programs for training and development.

Making a measurable impact Our company has a strong passion for sustainability, and we are relentless in our efforts to turn that passion into progress. Our three new targets provide a clear and measurable indication of our performance.

23


Corporate News

RadiciGroup closes 2021 with positive results. Continued focus on sizeable investments in innovation and sustainability. Underway in India, the acquisition of the Engineering Plastics business of Ester Industries Ltd. with the objective of keeping up the Group’s global growth trend With total sales of EUR 1.508 million generated by over 30 production and sales units in Europe, Asia and America, RadiciGroup closed its 2021 financial year with positive results, despite the difficulties due to the lingering effects of the pandemic and the steep increase in the cost of raw materials and energy, especially during the latter part of the year. The Group – led by brothers Angelo, Maurizio and Paolo Radici – continued to pursue its strategy of focusing on the core businesses considered to be strategic and synergistic, such as nylon chemicals, engineering polymers and advanced textile solutions, while, at the same time, introducing new products, such as a line of personal protective equipment for medical and industrial use.

EBITDA reached EUR 268 million, and net income for the year was EUR 150 million. “The figures recorded in 2021 were good, but certainly very difficult to replicate,” Angelo Radici, president of RadiciGroup, commented. "The reason is that the increase in sales came about more as a result of the ‘price increase’ effect caused by a sharp jump in the cost of raw materials and energy. However, we demonstrated our great ability to react, seizing opportunities that we were able to realize fast and efficiently, with the help of our collaborators at all levels. The year 2022 started off with the entire industrial world facing great difficulties, created by the uncertainties related to the precarious international geopolitical situation. This new state of affairs

24

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2022

prevents us from forecasting cost trends, energy and gas in particular, which, in a company like ours, affect both raw materials and processing costs. We entrepreneurs find ourselves dealing with a situation that makes medium- to longterm planning almost impossible. In this context, the second half of 2022 remains a matter of great concern, especially if the negative variables relating to the war – gas and energy costs – do not change. Nevertheless, we can always count on our people, who, even in such adverse circumstances, have been working with great commitment, flexibility and a spirit of adaptation." Despite this situation, RadiciGroup considers it essential to continue making investments. “In 2021, the Group invested EUR 53 million financed from cash flow,” Alessandro Manzoni, CFO of RadiciGroup, emphasized. “There was no impact on net financial position, which registered an improvement over 2020, as did all our balance sheet ratios." Furthermore, in spite of the complexity of the period, in 2022 the Group shareholders have kept on with their significant investment plan aimed at

strengthening RadiciGroup’s presence in global markets and improving its competitiveness. Indeed, the Group has moved forward, according to plan, with the acquisition of the Engineering Plastics business of Ester Industries Ltd., an Indiabased company engaged for decades in the production of engineering polymers and listed on the Bombay Stock Exchange. RadiciGroup’s EUR 35 million investment in this transaction furthers the internationalization strategy of its High Performance Polymers business area. “In the Indian market, a strong presence is required to react to growth opportunities in sectors with short and responsive production chains,” Maurizio Radici, vice president and COO of RadiciGroup, said. “From the start, the strategy of our High Performance Polymers business area has been based on working locally in the closest proximity to customers, in order to offer not only products but also prompt and efficient service near to their industrial sites. Presently, the compounding business accounts for one-third of the Group's total sales; it has helped make the Radici name recognized worldwide”. 



Dyes and Chemical

Archroma bridges the gap between art and science with a ready-to-use swatch book dedicated to its DEEP DIVE sustainable dyeing system for dark, popular color basics Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, launches its first ever ready-to-use swatch book, dedicated to creating sustainable black and dark color basics for faster time to market, to support its popular DEEP DIVE 2.0 system. In 2018, Archroma launched its system solutions, a holistic approach aimed at addressing the growing expectations of the public in terms of keeping consumers, and the environment, safe. Under the umbrella of "The Archroma Way to a Sustainable World: Safe, efficient, enhanced, it's our nature", the Archroma systems are designed to create innovation and performance, whilst reducing the impacts on water, energy and other natural resources. The savings generated by these 70+ system solutions are demonstrated by Archroma's proprietary ONE WAY Impact Calculator, a ground-breaking tool launched in 2012 and continuously upgraded to simulate and optimize the footprint of textile application processes. One of these systems, DEEP DIVE 2.0, has attracted a lot of interest not just from textile manufacturers but also from major brands and retailers worldwide. This popular system combines Drimaren® Ultimate HD, highperformance reactive dyes, with Blue Magic, an all-in-one pretreatment, Optifix® RUB New liq and Siligen® SIH-S New liq, a finishing treatment improved rub fastness and elegant hand feel, and an effective hydrolyzed dye remover, Cyclanon® XC-W New liq. The result is a shorter dyeing process combining right-first-time productivity, an improved fabric quality for longer lasting end-articles, as well as dramatically reduced water and energy utilization for brands committed to drive more sustainable production. Savings can reach

26

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2022

up to 31% water and 34% energy. The system is ideally suited for medium and dark cottons that have high performing fastness to light, multiple home laundering, saliva – in other words: apparel used for fashion, sports and baby’s wear.

The new Archroma DEEP

At the same DIVE 2.0 swatch book. time, interested manufacturers and often have and sell up to 60% of medium brands were facing the constant to dark shades in their seasonal palettes. challenge of the fashion industry: time to It’s also the dark shades that use the most market. water and energy in production, so prioritizing these colors would have the Often design is separated from execution in the factory and as such often largest ecological positive impact. designers initially select color that cannot The 48 colors swatched in the DEEP be met in reality on different fibers or DIVE 2.0 book have been selected based production routes in terms of color flare, on market popularity to allow brands and metamerism, brightness, depth and now manufacturers to match that very stable sustainable metrics – leading to lengthy market demand. Customers may use delays and compromises in function, these colors as presented, or as performance and/or color. inspiration whereby Archroma can create and match new custom colors using the Archroma decided to create a DEEP DIVE 2.0 system. dedicated tool aimed at addressing these issues. The company developed a new, Christophe Maestripieri, Global Head unique book with color swatches made of the Archroma Brand Studio, the with the system that is ready to company’s department dedicated to implement immediately into production support brands’ projects and innovations, thanks to engineered color standards and explains: “We wanted to make sure our specifications. partners have all the tools they need to convert to more sustainable colors. We This new tool offers a path to bridge had the ideal dyeing system to do that, the gap between “art and science” by DEEP DIVE 2.0, with its high performance providing at inspiration phase fully and reduced impacts on resources. Now, executable deep colors for cotton with with the new DEEP DIVE 2.0 swatch controlled color metamerism and at the book, we also offer to brands and same time demonstrate water, energy manufacturers a way to select sustainable and chemical savings, enhanced color color options that meet the market fastness using safe chemistry for the end demand for high quality medium to dark consumer. shades which can be implemented into As a wardrobe staple, medium to dark production right away.” shades are very popular with consumers. ® Trademarks of Archroma registered As a result, most brands and retailers in many countries. 



Dyes and Chemicals

Huntsman to highlight solutions for highly sustainable, high-performance outdoor wear at outdoor retailer summer 2022 Huntsman Textile Effects, a global leader in innovative solutions and environmentally sustainable products, will be at Outdoor Retailer in Denver, Colorado to present end-to-end solutions that enable outdoor apparel brands to achieve the functionality that outdoor adventurers crave with on-trend aesthetics and a high degree of sustainability. “Whether hiking, climbing, backpacking or making a statement with their everyday wear, today’s consumers want outdoor wear that delivers enhanced performance, comfort and protection. But they also increasingly expect brands to be eco-friendly and transparent about their sustainability efforts. With the right dye recipes and finishing chemistries from a trusted partner like Huntsman, brands can meet all of these expectations and differentiate themselves in a cost-efficient way,” said Ben Powell, Commercial DirectorAmericas, Huntsman Textile Effects. “We are excited to bring some really exciting innovations to this year’s Outdoor Retailer Summer show. These solutions make it possible for brands and their mill partners to produce garments that dry quickly, resist stains and prevent odors, with improved breathability and long-lasting good looks.”

Resource-saving solutions Huntsman will highlight the AVITERA® SE Fast process at Outdoor Retailer. This revolutionary technology delivers the lowest environmental impact for dyeing polyester-cellulosic (PES-CO) blends. It combines alkali-clearable TERASIL® W/WW disperse dyes and AVITERA® SE reactive dyes to cut processing time from around nine hours to just six, helping mills to reduce the water and energy required for production by up to 50% and to increase output by up to 25% or more. The new process also delivers outstanding wet-fastness during home laundering or while in storage or transit.

28

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2022

EROPON® E3-SAVE is another nextgeneration water-saving innovation. An all-in-one textile auxiliary for PES processing, it allows pre-scouring, dyeing and reduction clearing to be combined in a single bath and eliminates the need for anti-foaming products, which shortens processing time and further saves water and energy.

Eco-friendly stain and rain resistance Huntsman will also present ecofriendly finishes that repel water and stains to help garments look new for longer. Continuing its long-standing relationship with Chemours, Huntsman is highlighting Teflon™ EcoElite with Zelan™ R3 technology. The industry’s first renewably sourced water-repellent finish, it contains 63% plant-based materials and exceeds performance levels possible with traditional fluorinated technologies, preserving breathability while offering excellent water repellency and durability. Another breakthrough for brands and mills is PHOBOTEX® RSY for outerwear. A next-generation nonfluorinated water-repellent finish, its performance is comparable to formulations based on per-fluorinated chemicals (PFCs), delivering sustainable protection that keeps the wearer dry, even in the most demanding environments. It is a perfect combination of excellent water repellency and extremely high wash durability.

Innovative odor control solutions Huntsman will also showcase revolutionary antimicrobial and odorcontrol solutions as part of its partnership with Sciessent. Sciessent’s latest anti-odor technology, NOBO™, has been specifically developed to reduce odors in natural and synthetic fabrics. It can be incorporated into virtually any fabric, making it ideal for everything from base layer and activewear tops to socks and underwear to hiking pants, chinos and hard shell jackets. It offers a costeffective way to upgrade everyday garments. In addition, the partners will also present Sciessent’s Agion Active X2®, a next-generation odor-control solution that combines advanced antimicrobial and odor-absorbing technologies to both capture and fight odor-causing bacteria, and Lava X2®, a standalone odor adsorption product and key component of Agion Active X2® that attracts, adsorbs and degrades odors for long-lasing odor protection.

Meet Huntsman Textile Effects at Outdoor Retailer Summer The summer edition of North America’s largest outdoor industry tradeshow, Outdoor Retailer Summer, will take place from June 9 -11, 2022 at the Colorado Convention Center in Denver. You are invited to visit Huntsman at booth 50008-UL. 



Stage set for 9th Intex South Asia – Bangladesh Edition in June 2022 in Dhaka Bangladesh is ready to host the Intex South Asia, the Biggest International Textile Sourcing Show of South Asia, in physical format in Dhaka from 16-18 June 2022 at Hall IV International Convention City Bashundhara (ICCB). Intex South Asia Bangladesh would be the first international textiles sourcing show in Bangladesh post the pandemic. After two successful Bangladesh editions in 2019 (physical) and 2020 (virtual), Intex South Asia will bring together textile and apparel industry stakeholders from Bangladesh to meet and conduct business with 150+ local and international suppliers of fibers, yarns, apparel fabrics, trims, laces, embroidery, textile design software, as well as to grow international business by interacting with textile parks owners, trends forecasters and more under this unified textile sourcing platform. This, the 9th Intex South Asia - Bangladesh edition will witness more than 75 companies from India and Bangladesh, along with international participants from South Korea, Turkey, Italy, Indonesia, Thailand, China, UAE, Singapore and UK showcasing their innovative, sustainable and latest textile offerings for 2023-24 SS/AW. Alongside the exhibition, there will be an Interactive Business Forum Seminar Series. This knowledge sharing platform has hosted cutting-edge industry seminars, presentations and workshops on supply chain, innovations, sustainability, global fashion trends by global industry experts such as The Woolmark Company, Cotton USA, Italtex Italy, QIMAone (Hong Kong), Oeko-Tex (Germany), BCI Better Cotton Initiative (Switzerland) and more. The 2022 edition’s IBF Seminar Series Agenda will be announced shortly. With Bangladesh’s textile and apparel exports aiming to reach US$ 100 billion in the next 10 years, the Intex South Asia

30

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2022

platform will offer excellent opportunities for the textile & RMG industry stakeholders to reconnect with new and existing international textile suppliers, explore sourcing opportunities for new product development and learn about the latest innovations, trends and sustainability in textiles by international experts. Furthermore, our platform will assist Bangladesh’s large and SME textile manufacturers to showcase “Made in Bangladesh” trendy & quality products and promote backward linkage to leading garment manufacturers, exporters, sourcing / buying offices of international brands and retailers, domestic apparel brands, fashion labels, etc. in Bangladesh.


Fairs and Exhibitions Speaking on the occasion, Ms. Arti Bhagat, Director of Worldex India, Organiser of Intex South Asia Bangladesh said, “The 2022 edition presents a curated collection of new products and innovations by India and international suppliers to create assured, new business opportunities for the Bangladeshi industry. This show delivers a two-fold advantage for Bangladesh; It creates opportunities for Bangladesh to increase its global market share and strengthen its reputation as a sourcing destination for high-fashion and value-added garments. I believe our platform would further assist the growth and development of the textile and apparel industry of Bangladesh”. We are pleased to welcome Arise Integrated Industrial Platforms (ARISE IIP) as our Africa Investment Partner at Intex South Asia Bangladesh. ARISE IIP identifies industrial gaps in Africa and designs sustainable solutions to locally transform raw materials, boost exports and promote trade. We request everyone to visit their booth and attend their Session on ‘Investment Opportunities in Africa’ at the IBF Seminar Series. We invite all industry representatives to visit the show inperson and make the best of this opportunity at the 9th Intex South Asia Bangladesh. To receive your complimentary badge, register yourself at https://bd.intexsouthasia.com/buyer_reg.html

Intex South Asia is organised by Worldex India Exhibition & Promotion Pvt. Ltd and endorsed by International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF), Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers & Exporters Association (BKMEA), Bangladesh Garment Buying House Association (BGBA), India-Bangladesh Chamber of Commerce & Industry (IBCCI), Taiwan Textile Federation (TTF), Korea Textile Center (KTC), Thailand Textile Institute (THTI), The Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council (TEXPROCIL), Federation of Indian Export Organisations (FIEO) and the Malaysian Knitting Manufacturers Association (MKMA) to name a few.

Fact Sheet Exhibition Title

Intex South Asia Bangladesh

Edition

9th

Dates

16-17-18 June, 2022

Venue

Hall 4, ICCB, Dhaka

Major Exhibiting Countries/Regions

 India  Sri Lanka  Bangladesh  Pakistan  Thailand  Indonesia  Malaysia  Korea  Taiwan  Turkey  United Kingdom  Germany  USA  Australia and more

Major Exhibiting Categories

 Fibres  Yarns  Apparel Fabrics  Denim Fabrics  Clothing Accessories  Dyes & Chemicals w Software & ERP solutions  Design Studios  Testing Equipment & Compliance Solutions  Trends & Fashion Forecasters  Allied Services

Buyers’ Profile

 Apparel Manufacturers & Exporters  Apparel Brands & Fashion Labels  International Sourcing Offices  Buying Houses & Agents  Apparel Retailers & E-tailers  Importers, Distributors & Wholesalers  Intimate & Undergarments Brands  Textile Manufacturers & Exporters  Govt. & Trade Body Representatives  Sales & Marketing Consultants  Textile Trading Houses and more

31


A wide width Monforts Montex line for the production of technical textiles.

Catering for diversity – Monforts at Techtextil North America Monforts will highlight its advanced finishing and coating technologies for the production of technical textiles at Techtextil North America, which takes place at the Georgia World Congress Center in Atlanta from May 17-19.

fabrics, as well as functional materials. Dedicated Montex lines have also been supplied to producers of airbags, flame retardant barrier fabrics and spacer fabrics, as well as high-temperature filter materials.

The company and its US representative PSP Marketing, of Charlotte, North Carolina, will be part of the centrepiece VDMA German Pavilion at the show (Stand 1936 in Hall B3).

“Technical textiles are extremely diverse in their end-use applications but the needs of the manufacturers of very different materials are still uniform in many respects,” says Monforts Managing Director Stefan Flöth. “Montex stenters provide maximum efficiency, the ultimate in flexibility and the ability to switch quickly from one fabric formula to the next. Many of our customers need to operate 24 hours a day over seamless shift systems.”

European-built Montex stenters have earned their leading position on the market for fabric finishing due to their robustness, reliability and economy. Existing technical textiles customers include manufacturers in the fields of home textiles, geotextiles, automotive

32

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2022

Energy prices With energy prices continuing to go through the roof, an emphasis at Techtextil North America will be on the energy and heat recovery that can be achieved with Montex stenters, through features such as the MonforClean system, in which waste heat from the drying process is used to pre-heat the drying air. This results in a radical reduction in the conventional heat supply required. A range of further resource-saving and energy recovery options can be specified per individual line installation. Advanced machine operation With the highly intuitive Qualitex 800 visualization software, all article-specific settings can be stored and the


Features “The easy to use HMI makes the operation of the line much simpler and cuts down the necessary training periods, while at the same time reducing the chance of human error,” observes PSP vice-president Alex Franco. The Qualitex 800 system is available for the automatic and continuous operation of the company’s Montex stenters, as well as its Thermex continuous dyeing ranges, Monfortex shrinking systems and Montex®Coat coating units.

Versatility is the key Monforts Montex®Coat coating units serve an equally diverse number of markets, including tents, tarpaulins and awnings, black-out roller blinds and sail cloth, automotive interior fabrics and medical disposables. Full PVC coatings, pigment dyeing or minimal application surface and low penetration treatments and solvent coatings (in explosion-proof conditions) with knife coating, roller coating or screen printing can all be accommodated with this system.

formulations for thousands of treatment processes called up again at any time. Individual operators can also personalise

their dashboards with the most important machine functions and process parameters.

“Technical textiles are a key pillar of our production programme and North America is one of our major markets, which makes Techtextil North America a very important show for us,” Flöth concludes. “We are looking forward to reconnecting with customers old and new at this always-vibrant show.”

Monforts Montex®Coat coating units serve a diverse number of markets.

33


About the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol In a period of ever greater supply chain scrutiny and a growing demand for transparency and traceability, The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol sets a new standard for more sustainably grown cotton. It brings quantifiable and verifiable goals and measurement to sustainable cotton production and drives continuous improvement in key sustainability metrics. The Trust Protocol underpins and verifies U.S. cotton’s sustainability progress through sophisticated data collection and independent third-party verification. Choosing Trust Protocol cotton will give brands and retailers the critical assurances they need that the cotton fiber element of their supply chain is more sustainably grown with lower environmental and social risk. Brands and retailers will gain access to U.S. cotton with sustainability credentials proven via Field to Market, measured via the Field Calculator and verified with Control UnionCertifications. The Trust Protocol is a complement to existing sustainability programs. It is designed from the ground up to fit the unique cotton mass-growing environment of the UnitedStates.

40

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2022

Continuous Improvement The 16,000 cotton farms in the United States have been committed to continuous improvement for decades. Over the past 35 years, U.S. cotton production has used 79% less water per bale and 54% less energy, reduced greenhouse gas emissions by 40%, all while reducing land use per bale by 49%. The adoption of practices such as minimal tillage, GPS and sensor-driven precision agriculture, and the growing of winter

cover crops have further improved soil health, reducing loss and erosion by 37% per acre and increasing soil carbon levels.

Industry-wide regulation and quality control Source U.S. cotton with confidence, knowing that the United States has one of the most comprehensive and strict regulatory environments to ensure responsible growing practices as well as cotton trackability and quality-control, making it a safe and more sustainable


Features

choice: The U.S. regulatory framework is extensive and covers environmental regulations on pesticides, labor, wages, working conditions, safety and health. U.S. cotton is also regulated as a food crop, making it safe for people and the environment. The Permanent Bale Identification system, which assigns a unique barcode to every bale of U.S. grown cotton at the gin, provides farm to-mill trackability for each bale. The USDA Classification System, used the world over, underpins the quality and consistency of every order of U.S. cotton that enters the supply chain – long staple length, minimal contaminants and bright, uniform color.

Data-driven analysis and trusted verification To meet the ever-increasing demands for apparel brands to demonstrate their environmental credentials, the environmental performance of Trust Protocol cotton is measured and analyzed at field- level. The Fieldprint Calculator, devised by Trust Protocol data partner, Field to Market: The Alliance for Sustainable Agriculture, illustrates in graphic form the progress of Trust

Protocol growers which optimize yield, minimize water and chemical inputs, and leave healthy soil for future seasons and generations. This data is then made available, in aggregate form, to brands partnering with the Trust Protocol for use in their own sustainability reporting. In addition, the Trust Protocol incorporates a comprehensive program of verification against Trust Protocol benchmarks, in the form of both secondparty and independent thirdparty audits of grower performance through Control Union Certifications – the latter through allocated on-site visits. The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol is overseen by a multi-stakeholder Board of Directors comprised of representatives from brands and retailers, civil society and independent sustainability experts as well as the cotton-growing industry, including

growers, ginners, merchants, wholesalers and cooperatives, mills and cottonseed handlers. Our aim is to have more than half of all U.S. cotton production included in the Trust Protocol program by the 2025 growing season.

Improved sustainability and reduced risk Brought together, this offers to brands and retailers a unique set of assurances that, in choosing Trust Protocol cotton, they can be sure that they are demanding responsibly produced, quality fiber, and reducing environmental and social risk in their field-to-mill supply chain. Put simply: The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol helps the apparel industry to measure its sustainability commitments to its customers, to its broader stakeholders, and to itself. The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol: Trust in a smarter cotton future.

41


Fig. 1: The denim fabric made of 70% cotton and 30% post-consumer material was of a flawless quality.

Card C 80: High Productivity with a Challenging Raw Material The potential for recycling applications is huge – as are the challenges during processing. The card plays a decisive role in the yarn production process by opening and cleaning the material. The C 80 is perfectly equipped for recycling applications. The machine runs with high production rates and allows goodquality yarn to be manufactured even with a high proportion of post-consumer material. In a direct comparison at a customer spinning mill, the card C 80 with a production rate of 270 kilograms per hour achieved around four times the production rate of an older model of a competitor machine. 70% cotton and

36

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2022

30% post-consumer material were used as the material blend for producing rotor yarn with a count of Ne 12. Despite the high production rate of the C 80, the yarn quality was significantly better than the limit value defined by the customer. The thoroughly prepared fiber material also resulted in greater efficiency for the rotor spinning machine. The number of ends down was between 118 and 156 per 1 000 rotor hours. The finished product also convinced with its appearance and quality (Fig. 1).

75% lower energy consumption The significantly higher production rate with very good sliver quality enabled

the customer to use fewer cards during production and therefore to make considerable savings on energy costs. With a production rate of 270 kilograms per hour, the card C 80 replaced four cards with a working width of one meter. Energy consumption at the same production volume therefore decreased by 75%, which is equivalent to USD 40 000 per year.

Raw material with 90% post-consumer material Another customer processed a blend of 90% recycled, bleached cotton from postconsumer material and 10% polyester for its rotor yarn with a count of


Features Ne 8 to Ne 24. With this challenging material blend and a yarn count of Ne 9, the card C 80 achieved a production rate of 120 kilograms per hour. In a direct comparison with the previous model C 70, with the same working width of 1.5 meters, the C 80 can achieve double the production rate and a higher yarn quality. Yarn imperfections are reduced by around 50% with the C 80.

Proven benefits for all raw materials The C 80 is the card with the largest

About Rieter Rieter is the world’s leading supplier

active carding area on the market (Fig. 2).

of systems for short-staple fiber spinning.

The working width of 1.5 meters and 40

Based in Winterthur (Switzerland), the

active flats of the C 80 are key advantages also for recycled material with a low separation level and a high number of neps. The longest pre- and post-

company develops and manufactures machinery, systems and components used to convert natural and man-made fibers

carding zones can be individually

and their blends into yarns. Rieter is the

Tailor-made Graf clothings

equipped and configured to suit the raw

only supplier worldwide to cover both

Specially developed Graf clothings are used for processing recycling material. The material is thoroughly pre-separated with a sawtooth clothing on the licker-in unit. Non-compliant materials, such as unopened pieces of fabric, are efficiently eliminated at the mote knife of the lickerin. With the freely adjustable position setting of the mote knife and the licker-in speed, the quantity of waste can be easily set on the display and therefore specifically adjusted to the requirements of the material.

material. The reliable web guide with

spinning preparation processes and all

optimally designed guide lips provides a

four end-spinning processes currently

flawless card sliver that is compacted in

established on the market. Furthermore,

three stages. This is very important due to

Rieter is a leader in the field of precision

the high short-fiber content of recycled materials and the high delivery speeds. Thanks to these benefits, the card sliver of the C 80 also offers theoptimal

winding machines. With 17 manufacturing locations in ten countries, the company employs a global workforce

condition for a ring yarn made of

of some 4 900, about 18% of whom are

recycling materials. This considerably

based in Switzerland. Rieter is listed on

increases the range of potential recycling

the SIX Swiss Exchange under ticker

products.

symbol RIEN.

Fig. 2: The card C 80 offers outstanding performance and high-quality card sliver.

37


The LYCRA Company launches online customer portal, driving digital transformation for the apparel industry The LYCRA ONE™ portal includes the latest innovations, fabric library, knowledge center, certification services, and merchandising assets, allowing mills and retailers to collaborate digitally The LYCRA Company, a global leader in developing innovative solutions for the apparel and personal care industries, today announced the launch of their LYCRA ONE™ Online Network Exchange. The new online customer portal empowers brands, retailers, and garment makers to connect to a global network of mills all in one convenient platform focused around the science of comfort, fit and performance. Prior to the pandemic, there was already a need in the marketplace for a digital experience allowing brands and retailers to connect with mills and manufacturers in a virtual capacity without losing the inherent advantages of an in-person connection. Through the LYCRA ONE™ portal, users can source innovative fiber solutions using the digital fabric library. Users can also directly connect with mills to begin or expand on business relationships, learn about capabilities, and view product catalogs. “The LYCRA Company has a rich legacy of innovation, and we must embrace digital transformation. The launch of the LYCRA ONE™ portal leverages our connectivity across the apparel and personal care value chains and offers a one-stop seamless solution to rapidly move our customers’ ideas from concept to launch,” said CEO of The LYCRA Company, Julien Born. LYCRA ONE™ features a knowledge center where users can access exclusive

44

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - April 2022

content such as webinars, white papers, and videos covering new fiber technologies, industry trends, marketing, sustainability, and more. These resources help educate users on maximizing the value of The LYCRA Company and its innovative solutions to deliver products that can meet their consumers’ needs and provide inspiration for new ideas. Customers will discover innovative marketing and merchandising solutions through the LYCRA ONE™ portal, including brand assets and garment hang tags. Additionally, requests can be submitted for trademark license agreements and fiber certifications that help to reinforce the quality of products backed by the power of the LYCRA® brand. To learn more and register for the LYCRA ONE™ portal, visit one.lycra.com and select the signup button, or contact info@itextiles.com.pk to know more about the LYCRA ONE® portal.

About The LYCRA Company The LYCRA Company innovates and produces fiber and technology solutions for the apparel and personal care industries. Headquartered in Wilmington, Delaware, The LYCRA Company is recognized worldwide for its innovative products, technical expertise, sustainable solutions, and unmatched marketing support. The LYCRA Company owns leading consumer and trade brands:

LYCRA®, LYCRA HyFit®, LYCRA® T400®, COOLMAX®, THERMOLITE®, ELASPAN®, SUPPLEX®, and TACTEL®. The LYCRA Company’s legacy stretches back to 1958 with the invention of the original spandex yarn, LYCRA® fiber. Today, The LYCRA Company focuses on adding value to its customers’ products by developing unique innovations designed to meet the consumer’s need for comfort and lasting performance. For more information, visit www.thelycracompany.com.

About iTextiles® iTextiles® is the sales representative of The LYCRA Company in Pakistan. It is a multi-disciplinary textile solutions company that creates, manages and innovates the entire value chain in performance textiles. Started in 2006 as a trading concern for fibers, the company has rapidly evolved to become a leading value chain manager in the region, supplying raw material to and representing some of the biggest international companies and their brands.

LYCRA® and LYCRA ONE™ are trademarks of The LYCRA Company. 



®

YARNMASTER PRISMA for clear reasons

Kohinoor Textile Mills Limited Relies on Unique Technology Perfection for compact yarns – The General Managers of Kohinoor Textile Mills Limited Pakistan know exactly what they need for their business and are again relying on the latest Loepfe technology for, clear reasons – a new level in yarn quality with increasing profitability. Mr. Muhammad Irfan, General Manager of the Gujar Khan plant and Mr. M. Jahanzaib Baloch, General Manager of the Rawalpindi plant lead one of the most successful textile businesses in Pakistan. They operate nine units with 180,000 spindles, covering the complete range of coarse and fine count yarn from natural to man-made fibers. Kohinoor Textile Mills Limited is known for its consistent yarn quality. The focus on satisfied customers has proven itself and is continued meticulously. This is achieved, among other things, through the constant integration of the latest technologies.

improve our yarn appearance and customer satisfaction. We are delighted to continue our relationship with Loepfe by installing YarnMaster PRISMA on our lines – and, in fact, we are already seeing the benefits of this new leading-edge sensor technology.” With PRISMA, Kohinoor Textile Mills Limited achieves a new level in yarn quality while increasing profitability. This is accomplished through the unique foursensor technology combined with the intelligent clearing algorithm. Especially important for Kohinoor Textile Mills Limited and their mainly compact ring

yarn production are the additional fine classes of SFI/D and OffCount clearing. The refined matrices simplify the settings and provide flexibility to adapt the clearing curve to all market needs. Thereby the compact spinners are given the best yarn structure overview of their produced yarn. Kohinoor Textile Mills Limited uses the unique feature based on the continuous monitoring length of 80 meters for SFI/D clearing and 50 meters for OffCount clearing. Removing long faults in one piece delivers significant advantages:

A total of 5,500 Loepfe yarn clearers are integrated into the spinning process, with the first 1,112 winding units now being replaced with the new yarn clearer generation, YarnMaster PRISMA. The motives are clear. Mr. Muhammad Irfan commented: “Loepfe yarn clearers have helped us to Mr. Umair Mansoor Service Manager, Service Traders (Pvt) Ltd. Pakistan and Mr. Martin Bace Service Manager Loepfe

40

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2022


Mill Report  Increased machine efficiency due to

less splice cycles and immediate alarm of bad bobbins after the first few meters  Increasing yarn quality due to complete removal of long faults  Certainty in yarn quality since no remnants of longer faults are processed further. As this is the case with other yarn clearer models which are cutting longer faults on their set curve and therefore slicing faults into piecesMr. M. Jahanzaib Baloch added: “KTML is a vertically integrated set up producing yarn for its own requirement and selling in the local market at the same time. Finished goods are sold to world-famous brands in the US and Europe. Quality is ensured in each and every step. The export market is very sensitive to contamination. To achieve this objective Loepfe and Service traders are our partners for decades. PRISMA is an excellent product made it possible to optimize at the deepest levels. There is a world full of opportunities in a single sensing head. For us, Loepfe is a brand we trust on.“

Monitoring length of 80 meters for SFI/D clearing

Immediate and professional support in all matters is a pillar of Loepfe customer care. If our customers are satisfied. Then so are we. Thank you Kohinoor Textile Mills Limited for your loyalty and we look forward to hearing more about your successes in the coming months!

Monitoring length of 50 meters for OffCount clearingclearing

Mr. Muhammad Irfan, General Manager of the Gujar Khan plant and Mr. M. Jahanzaib Baloch, General Manager of the Rawalpindi plant and Mr. Martin Bace Service Manager Loepfe

41


Weaving

Pakistan has become a Denim Hub by Prof. Dr. Noor Ahmed Memon, Dadabhoy Institute of Higher Education. Pakistan has become a Denim Hub in the region in less than a decade and is considered as one of the leading suppliers of quality denim fabric to the world's known brands for the garments. The denim industry is contributing substantially towards exports and creating job in the denim sector. At present Pakistan makes it to the top three denim manufacturers in Asia. Pakistan’s textile exports seem to have largely recovered from the Covid-19 pandemic shocks and are still growing. Export of cotton denim fabrics from Pakistan increased from 408 million square metres worth Rs 66 billion in 2019-20 to 181 million square metres worth Rs. 73 billion in 2020-21, thus showing an increase of 12% in terms of value. Bangladesh, Turkey, Egypt, Sri Lanka, Italy and Cambodia are the major markets for denim fabrics exports from Pakistan.

expected to increase to US$105 billion by 2023. Denim or blue jeans are by far the most valuable product in the denim industry, though there has been an increase in value for every type of denim clothing item. Western wear, a style of clothing originating from the 19th century American old west region, uses a large amount of denim. As such, the market value of western wear was also projected to increase through 2023, to reach a value of US$ 99 billion. At present, the major manufacturers countries of denim fabric are concentrated in China, India and Pakistan. The major driving factor of global denim jeans markets are rising disposable income of the individuals, surging ecommerce industry and increasing preference for wearing denim jeans.

Manufacturers are adopting the leading fibre technology that has enabled The global market value of denim them to offer denim jeans products for at fabric was US$ 90 billion in 20 and was leisure and activewear besides the workwear and casual wear. The major Table 1: Export of Cotton Woven Denim restraining factor of global denim jeans Fabrics markets are changes in consumer lifestyle & preference and the Quantity Value introduction of yoga pants and other Year (Million Sq M) (Rs. Millions) active wear. 2015-16

426

47,983

2016-17

363

45,394

2017-18

434

57,473

2018-19

492

65,963

2019-20

408

66,279

2020-21

181

73,281

Source: Pakistan Bureau of Statistics

42

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2022

The denim jeans are a specific type of trousers which are made of denim or dungaree cloth. The denim jeans are one of the most significant parts of the clothing and apparel industry. Increasing demand for denim jeans products is further expected to impact the global market growth of denim jeans positively.

Denim is now one of the key apparel sectors and the driving force behind the apparel exports of the country. The United States were the major denim producer throughout the years, but now with the emergence of the countries like China, India, Pakistan and Bangladesh, it is evident that denim is not an American product anymore.

Pakistan’s Role Pakistan has become denim hub in the region in less than a decade and is considered one of the leading suppliers of quality denim fabric to the world's known brands for the garments. Denim fabric has been developed and over the last few years; there is rapid growth and expansion in its use and production capacity in Pakistan. There are about 40 major players in the denim industry of Pakistan. Some of them, like Artistic Fabric Mills, Pak Denim Limited, Al-Ameen Denim Mills Limited, S.M Denim Mills Ltd, Denim International, Classic Denim, Rajby Industries, Soorty, etc. are producing more than 50 million square metres of finished denim fabrics monthly. Supply of denim fabric from Pakistan is a specialised textile product with its diversified increasing use in jeans, fancy and fashion apparel, curtain, bed sheets, canvas, uniforms, fire-resistant apparels for all seasons and all ages.

Exports There is a constant increase in the export of denim fabrics from Pakistan. Export of cotton denim fabrics increased from 408 million square meters worth Rs


Weaving 66 billion in 2019-20 to 181 million square meters worth Rs 73 billion in 2020-21, thus showing an increase of 12% in terms of value. Exports of cotton denim fabrics from Pakistan are given in Table-1. Bangladesh, Turkey, Egypt, Sri Lanka and Italy are the major markets for denim fabrics exports from Pakistan. With about 207 million sq. meters of cotton denim fabric being exported to Bangladesh in 2019-20, it is a major market for Pakistan. Country-wise exports of cotton denim fabrics from Pakistan are given in Table 2. The world's top denim fabric exporting country in 2020 was China while the top denim fabric importing country was Bangladesh. Mexico was the largest supplier of denim jeans to the USA while Bangladesh was the largest supplier of denim jeans to the EU. America tops the list of denim jeans users and an average estimate puts the figure at 450 million pairs a year. The top global denim fabric exporting countries are China, Hong Kong, Turkey, Italy, Pakistan India, Spain and Brazil.

Future Prospects Traditionally the denim fabric is made of 100% cotton indigo dyed warp and white weft yarn of coarser counts. The fabrics are woven on projectile, rapier, airjet and shuttle looms. Initially the denim fabric was developed as work wear. Now the scenario is different. Denim fabrics has gained immense popularity and accepted by all irrespective of gender, age-groups and profession. So, there is tremendous challenge on the part of denim product manufactures to innovate and develop products to suit requirements of different consumers. Currently, jeans are available in a variety of colors and styles to suit various consumer needs. Denim represents an evergreen fashion trend. Denim sales based on styles and fits are heavily dependent on street fashion and celebrity fashion trends. Growth in the market is influenced by economic, social and demographic trends.

Table 3: Exports of Cotton Woven Denim Fabrics Quantity: 000 sq. Meters Value: Rs. Million Country

2020-21

2019-20

2018-19

Quantity

Value

Quantity

Value

Quantity

Value

Bangladesh

88,948

35,779

207,381

34,641

245,972

32,476

Turkey

46,039

16,907

68,698

10,902

8,079

11,796

Italy

2,990

1,074

6,922

1,088

11,440

1,469

Vietnam

1,786

892

7,327

1,219

10,167

1,350

Egypt

13,670

6,494

39,340

6,030

47,029

5,612

Sri Lanka

3,212

1,650

14,213

2,116

152,264

248

UAE

1,075

361

8,331

1,303

1,255

160

Peru

814

518

4,147

708

6,699

943

Tunisia

525

227

1,007

161

80,789

11,706

Spain

368

148

2,217

375

1,791

260

China

848

234

2,061

343

1,372

192

All others

20,500

8,997

46,340

7,393

75,161

249

Total

180,775

73,281

407,984

66,279

491,696

65,963

Source: Pakistan Bureau of Statistics.

few decades. The manufacturers are focusing on newer designs, styles, and fit to suit changing consumer preferences and fashion trends. The market situation does not allow the global players in the denim to increase consumer prices and therefore they have to absorb the price increases from denim fabric producers worldwide. Since major denim importing countries are opting for vertical integration, export markets are shrinking and margins are under pressure. Manufacturers can either improve their production practices to enhance productivity and hence reduce costs or increase value addition at the fabric stage by producing premium quality denim.

In this scenario, Pakistan has emerged as a key supplier of this highly demanded fabric due to the competitive prices and in house innovations by the denim manufacturers in Pakistan. In conclusion, it is well accepted that denim is an evergreen fashion and liked by all irrespective of gender, age and profession. A lot of innovation and research are to be done on continuous basis to fulfill requirements of diverse consumers keeping in mind its impact on society and environment.

References 1. 2. 3.

Pakistan Bureau of Statistics. State Bank of Pakistan-Annual Reports. Trade Development Authority of Pakistan. 

The innovation remains critical to market growth and jeans have been reinvented from time to time over the last

43


Weaving

Inauguration of Groz-Beckert’s first weaving showroom in India Albstadt, Germany/Ichalkaranji, India: On Wednesday, March 30, 2022, Groz-Beckert opened its first showroom in India – in the emerging weaving market in Ichalkaranji. Part of the official inauguration was an evening event with customers. The highlight of the weaving showroom is the new fully automatic WarpMasterPlus drawing-in machine. KnotMaster series knotting machines and accessories from the weaving preparation portfolio are also available for training, testing and demonstrations. The WarpMasterPlus is the latest generation of fully automatic drawing-in machines. The system of the WarpMasterPlus was completely redeveloped from the ground up. The latest technologies were consistently used to bring a machine to the market that is already equipped today for future requirements with regard to increased automation in view of Industry 4.0. With this machine generation, Groz-Beckert continues to rely on the globally proven drawing-in concept, where drawing-in takes place via a single bobbin. Further advantages of the WarpMasterPlus include optimal flexibility combined with maximum performance and minimal setup

requirements, as well as problem-free drawing in of critical warp yarns. In addition, the number of cycles has been increased and sophisticated functions such as pre-setting drop-wire magazines and CNC axes for adjusting the heald length have been added. The WarpMasterPlus combines all properties offered by the established WarpMaster concept to date: This includes the minimal training requirements for operating and maintenance personnel and the extremely easy operation thanks to sensors and video support. Video support in particular is a feature that has been appreciated by customers for years. It enables people without prior knowledge of drawing-in to operate the machine quickly and reliably. Groz-Beckert is thus countering the increasing shortage of skilled workers in the industry. The company presented the WarpMasterPlus for the first time at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona, Spain. Group Picture (from left to right):      

44

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2022

Raj Kumar Yadav Sr., Manager Sales Weaving, Groz-Beckert Asia Private Limited, India Sanjay Chawla, Vice President Sales & Marketing, GrozBeckert Asia Private Limited, India Renato D'Agostino, Senior Vice President Sales & Head of Weaving, Groz-Beckert KG, Germany Peter Daub, Area Sales Manager Weaving, Groz-Beckert KG, Germany Stefan Leser, Managing Director, Groz-Beckert Asia Private Limited, India Sales and Service Team Weaving, Groz-Beckert Asia Private Limited, India 



Weaving

ITEMA: Cutting-Edge innovations and a complete range of weaving solutions at ITM For Itema one of the most strategically important markets in the world and the Itema technology is very well represented and loved by Turkish weavers as confirmed by the excellent 2021 sales results. The set-up of the new company in Turkey reaffirms the Itema commitment of being closer than ever to its valuable customers in the country. For ITM 2022, Itema prepared a product lineup specifically designed to meet and exceed its visitors needs and desires, including an absolute new market launch and interesting new applications of key innovations. Weaving Machines on Show The brand-new Itema Rapier R9500-2terry The most reliable, popular and guaranteed technology on the market to boost the production of terry fabrics comes at ITM 2022 in its Second Generation. The rapier terry machine preferred by worldwide terry weavers, with an impressive number of machines installed in more than 35 countries, and the absolute protagonist of terry fabrics production in Turkey, is now back in a new version that further increases textile

46

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2022

mastery, eco-efficiency and performances.performances. Textile mastery is a core competitive advantage of the R9500-2terry. The unique Itema Pile Formation Unit has been completely redesigned to ensure increased productivity, maximum ease of use and excellent terry quality. The system provides an optimal pile warp tension guaranteeing – unique in the market - both positive and negative control, hence ensuring excellent terry fabric quality. Key improvements – such as the main motor with oil cooling and the optimization of the machine lubrication system – ensure reduced energy consumption and improved heat management, achieving peerless ecoefficiency standards. Moreover, the optimized Pile Formation Unit features a reduced number of cylinders compared to the previous machine version thus leading to increased operational weaving space and user-friendliness and reduced style change time. Performance is achieved through tangible advancements. Monitoring the machines efficiency and performances has never been so easy: thanks to the

Itema plant management software iMANAGER, it is possible to effortlessly control and access machines data and statistics. In addition, the Itema in-depth knowledge of terry segment allowed the development of dedicated solutions to further improve fabric quality and weaving efficiency. The R9500-2terry on show at ITM 2022 is a courtesy of the Itema Customer Ceylan Havlu based in Denizli. In weaving width 3800mm, the machine will weave fashion hand towels. The best-seller Itema Rapier R9500-2 with iSAVER® for new applications The most versatile rapier machine in the market, the Itema R9500-2, comes at ITM 2022 loaded with an absolute innovation: iSAVER® for apparel applications. iSAVER®, the device that revolutionized the denim weaving providing tangible benefits in terms of sustainability and money saving thanks to the left side waste selvedge elimination, has been further developed to successfully weave a wider range of yarns. The device is now available also for the benefit of apparel weavers and it can successfully process cotton, Lycra, Tencel and polyester yarns.


Weaving Another innovative feature on display on the R9500-2 is iCARE™, a future oriented system – based on an advanced sensors mechanism able to monitor realtime the state of health of the Itema tapes and sprocket wheels, suggesting possible adjustments or interventions through the machine latest generation console. iCARE™ brings significant benefits to weavers, including the possibility to run the machine at the highest speeds without compromising components reliability, thanks to its breakthrough preventive maintenance function. Courtesy of the Itema customer Erka, based in Bursa, the R9500-2 on show in weaving width 2200mm will weave a stretch apparel style. The effective Itema Airjet A9500-2 The A9500-2 is designed for high productivity, whilst ensuring reduced levels of energy and air consumption as well as top machine reliability. The A9500-2 on display features the Itema heald frames SKYFRAME®, combining the highest machine speeds with maximum reliability. In addition, the machine textile mastery will be demonstrated by the weaving of double pick insertion.

Courtesy of the Itema customer Erka, the A9500-2 in weaving width 2200mm will run a typical Turkish apparel style. The most versatile Itema Rapier R9500-2 Wide Version for Curtain Fabrics The last machine on show at ITM is the wide version of the most successful rapier machine in recent history, the Itema R9500-2. Traditionally renowned as the preferred supplier for furnishing and upholstery fabrics weaving machines, Itema does not miss the opportunity to demonstrate the superior versatility of the R9500-2 by weaving sophisticated curtain fabrics. The R9500-2 in weaving width 3600mm and fully loaded with best-in-class Itema devices comes directly from Berteks Tekstil, leading producer of high-quality curtain fabrics.

damaged or broken parts with original spare parts. Choosing original spare parts represents the best way to protect the investment long-term, in fact rectifying problems due to non-original parts and non-original service can have dire and expensive consequences. Designed by professionals with a longstanding experience in the textile machinery sector, Itema original spare parts ensure maximum performances and increased durability, while maximizing the return on investment and the value retention. At ITM 2022 the latest solutions to upgrade the existing Itema – and previous brands Sulzer, Somet and Vamatex – looms will be exhibited.

The Full Range of Weaving Solutions on Show

Advanced Weaving Accessories: Lamiflex and Schoch

Itema OEM Spare Parts

The Itema Group companies Lamiflex and Schoch will be present at ITM in Itema booth with their advanced weaving accessories offering.

At Itema, our mission is to be close to our customers providing them not only advanced weaving machines but a complete range of services to guarantee a comprehensive and attentive support for the entire lifetime of the Itema weaving machines, including upgrade and conversion kits, and replacement of

The Lamiflex branded portfolio of rapier tapes and sprocket wheels and the Schoch wide range of weaving reeds for airjet and rapier weaving machines and drop-wires will be on display. 

47


Weaving

TEXO Compfelt looms – built to scale, and built to last TEXO AB, a member of TMAS, the Swedish textile machinery association, is currently seeing a surge in demand for its Compfelt weaving looms for press felt base fabrics. “These are far from standard machines,” explains TEXO President Anders Svensson. “Off-theshelf industrial weaving machines generally range in their working widths from 1.9 to 3.2 metres, with those purpose-built for technical applications such as geotextiles extending to wider widths of six metres and beyond. Meanwhile, one of the machines we have recently successfully delivered and commissioned has a working width of 23 metres and is not even the widest of the many such machines the company has engineered and delivered worldwide since its formation.” A second recently-delivered line has a more modest working width – in relative terms – of 13 metres.

Paper machines The demand for such machines comes from the suppliers of paper machine clothing (PMC) to paper mills, who in turn operate colossal machines for paper manufacturing. All paper machines require a regular supply of PMC fabrics which are employed in three separate areas of the paper machine – the forming section, the press section and the drying section.

Press felts TEXO Compfelt weaving machines are specifically employed for the production of endless (tubular) woven base fabrics for the press section of paper machines., where water is mechanically removed from the newly formed sheet of fibres. In the simplest press, the sheet is carried by the PMC fabric between two rolls, where water is squeezed out by the application of load and pressure. This can also be assisted by the use of vacuum and heat. The PMC fabrics here need to be replaced regularly, with a maximum lifespan of six months. These looms operate at between 30 to 55 picks per minute with shuttles that are almost a metre long. They have a maximum warp tension of 1,500 kilograms per metre and a maximum beat-up tension of 3,000 kilograms per metre.

Dobby harness “A major refinement of the machine has been the ability to equip it with up to 24 dobby harness frames to meet the

48

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2022

demand for sophisticated structures from the PMC manufacturers. Although the PMC business represents a small proportion of the total cost of manufacturing paper, it can have a significant impact on the quality of the paper, the efficiency of a machine and machine production rates.”

Retrofits TEXO’s looms are built to last, but technology moves forward, and the company is also currently very active in the retrofitting of existing machines built as far back as the 1970s. “The mechanical engineering of the 1970s, 80s and 90s was perhaps a little too good,” said Svensson. “The machines out in the market are rigid and strong and we are still supporting many of them with mechanical spare parts. They can, however, also be equipped with the latest technology for automation. With new controls, drives and motors they can perform as well as the latest machines.”

Integration TEXO has also just integrated its offices and production centre at its base in Älmhult, Sweden, to create a unified 5,000 square metre site. “This is a big step forward for efficiency and cooperation between our engineers and production workforce and is already resulting in enhanced team work and savings for us,” Svensson says in conclusion. “The new office is built with an open Scandinavian design and has all of the latest technologies required for a sustainable and environmentally-friendly work place, including a solar panelled roof. We are expecting a busy year.” “TEXO is a company that is now benefiting from both the increased e-commerce trend and the move towards sustainable packaging solutions, as well as with its traditional and wellproven technology foundations,” adds TMAS Secretary General Therese Premler-Andersson. 


Weaving

Vandewiele Bonas shows JIL Jacquard at ITM During ITM VANDEWIELE will show its newest addition to the highly successful Bonas JI range of jacquards: the JIL. The JIL represents the logical extension of the JI range allowing the customers higher hook capacities within the same range of machines. Hook capacities up to 11520 are now possible within the JI range. If even bigger capacities are required, Vandewiele offers the SI machine going up to more than 31000 hooks in a single machine.

superstructure resulting in a very compact installation with a required roof height much lower than classical gantry installations. This allows the machines to be installed in all weaving halls. The company will show a 9600 hook JIL weaving furnishing fabric with a full repeat design.

The JI has been a tremendous success since the introduction. In many textile countries Vandewiele strengthened or gained its market leader position thanks to the introduction of the new 96 technology used in all the jacquard machines today. Extending the range from a maximum of 5760 to a new maximum hook capacity of 11520 will make the JI the preferred choice for most customers. The Bonas JIL at ITM will be shown at the Vandewiele booth on a Picanol Optimax 190cm loom using Vandewiele's special

Karlmayer presents more efficiency and less environmental impact in warp preparation

More efficiency and less environmental impact in warp preparation with trendsetter solutions For ITM 2022 visitors from the Warp Preparation sector, Karl Mayer will have visual and information material for the top themes of denim, sizing and sample warping in its trade fair luggage. Greendye presents an environmentally friendly indigo dyeing process that relies on nitrogen technology and, thus,

significantly reduces chemical consumption. In addition, water can be saved in the washing process thanks to the unique dye fixation. In sizing, the Prosize® sets industry standards in terms of maximizing weaving efficiency and minimizing costs and environmental impact with an innovative application process. The use of sizing agents alone can be reduced by up to 10%. Further reductions are possible in energy

consumption and wastewater volumes. For the production of stencil and shorter production warps, the Multi-Matic® warp sampling machine is unbeatably flexible and efficient. The basis for its unique performance is above all an automated color change and leasing process at maximum production speed, patterning with up to 128 individually controlled yarn guides and a maximum working width of 3,600 mm.

49


Weaving

One-stop source for warp feeding and weaving preparation Crealet partnerships offer added value and extended range

require standardized processes for consistent high quality," says Crealet CEO Andreas Wirz.

Perfect preparation and feeding

Crealet has developed as a one-stop source for comprehensive consulting and solutions, with two key business partnerships bringing synergies and added value. The world-leading Swiss manufacturer of electronic warp feeding systems has joined forces with COMSAT and AEI to broaden the expertise and technology range available to customers and expand into a new industry segment. Since its start-up nearly 20 years ago, Crealet has earned the reputation as a global leader in the development and manufacture of electronic warp feeding systems for both wide and narrow fabric weaving. Two decades of knowledge and experience underpins its latest high-quality warp let-off systems for weaving from warp beams and creels. Customized warp letoff applications, especially for technical, sophisticated and sensitive fabrics, are regarded as Crealet specialties. The market for smart electronic warp let-offs has now become a core business. "We see growth opportunities in the production of warp let-off devices for high-tech fabrics that

Constant tension throughout the warp – from full to empty beam – is essential for quality end-products. Accurate feeding of the warp threads from beams is possible only if warp beam preparation is impeccable. The new partnership will enable a wider view of end-product optimization for Crealet customers in key markets such as Germany, Austria and Switzerland. COMSAT (Construcciones Mataró Servicios y Asistencia Tecnica) is a Spanish company producing sectional and direct warping machines and creels, as well as inspection machines, batching motions and selvedge thread warpers. Its products have brought extra value to Crealet solutions since its initial linkup in 2016. Today, the united competences of the firms provide a winning combination for weavers in the D-A-CH region.

New partner, new market Always attempting to extend its customer offering, Crealet was seeking the chance to cover more options in weaving preparation. The new partnership with Appalachian Electronic Instruments (AEI) provided the answer. This US company has specialized in quality and process control for the textile industry for 60 years, developing and manufacturing Andreas Wirz CEO Crealet quality assurance solutions in warp knitting and warp preparation for global markets. AEI engineers transform customer suggestions into practical applications for the textile industry’s constantly changing needs. Combining AEI know-how with Crealet’s depth of knowledge in warp feeding opens up a promising market opportunity in warp knitting – a new area for Crealet. Now, customers wishing to upgrade their machines with automatic warp feeding have an appealing new option. “With our partnerships, we’re convinced we can offer ideal solutions, especially in the areas of electronic warp yarn feeding for warp knitting machines and warp preparation for small and large warp beams in weaving mills,” says Wirz.. 

54

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2022


An assembly line at Mayer & Cie. in Albstadt-Tailfingen.

Mayer & Cie. at the ITM Turkish circular knitting market offers prospects in turbulent times Mayer & Cie. presented three machines: the D4-2.2 X interlock machine, the OV 3.2 QCe for double jersey structures and the MV 4 3.2 II for single jersey fabrics.

dial cam. No matter which of these tasks is assigned to the D4-2.2 X, it performs it with impressive productivity.

MV 4 3.2 II for flexibility in the single jersey sector

OV 3.2 QCe for double jersey structures The OV 3.2 QCe is a specialist for interlock fabrics and double jersey structures that it knits in both filament and synthetic fibre yarns. With a conversion kit the OV 3.2 QCe also qualifies as a producer of 8-lock structures, spacer fabrics and fine gauges. The machine is available in a choice of three frames: from open-width and industrial to giant frame. Stefan Bühler, regional sales manager for Turkey, has this to say: “Not for nothing has the OV 3. 2 QCe been one of our most popular machines for years. It is mainly used for sportswear and for leisure- and outerwear.” The OV 3.2 QCe on show was a 30inch, E40-gauge model.

D4-2.2 X for fine rib and interlock fabrics The double-jersey D4-2.2 X is an obvious choice for knitting fine rib fabrics of up to E28 gauge. Spacer and interlock fabrics are also part of the machine’s established repertoire. And it can produce elastomeric plating in both cylinder and

In the single jersey sector, the MV 4 3.2 II on show at the ITM knits to an E38 gauge. Despite the many challenges global economy faces, Mayer & Cie. The machine can also sees good perspectives for the Turkish market. be supplied for gauges Large orders, especially for standard from E14 to E60. It is, in addition, highly products, are on the increase, Kahraman flexible, with a repertoire that ranges Güveri explains. That leads to new from piqué and double piqué to oneinvestments, new companies and a thread fleece and smooth single jersey. growing demand for refurbished Turkey is a market with prospects machines that then need to be replaced by new machines elsewhere. And former Stefan Bühler, Mayer & Cie. Turkey commission merchants are now specialist said: “The challenges that the enterprises in their own right. global economy faces are at present “Apart from that, Turkey benefits enormously wide-ranging. The Russian from its proximity to Europe, transport invasion of the Ukraine, supply chain routes are manageable,” says Stefan outages, shortages of raw materials and Bühler. “This location advantage attracts skyrocketing energy prices all create brand manufacturers who together with uncertainty.” their orders bring new approaches, new And then there is galloping inflation designs and new technologies into the in Turkey and elections in 2023. Yet country.” And Turkey’s already very despite, and in part because of, this state highly developed textiles sector benefits of affairs Bühler and Kahraman Güveri, too. That, says Kahraman Güveri, is why CEO of Mayer & Cie.’s Turkish one can be confident for the next few representative MMÜ, hold a positive view years, “at least for as long as nothing of the market outlook for the years unforeseen happens.” ahead.

51


ITM in Istanbul: Saurer Spinning Solutions presents innovations in intelligent spinning

Autocoro 10

Saurer Spinning Solutions looks forward to welcoming visitors at Booth 310A in Hall 3 and will present the latest innovations in machinery, digitalisation, and components for prespinning as well as in ring, rotor and air spinning. Spinning Solutions offers high-quality, technologically advanced, and customer-specific automated solutions for staple fibre processing from bale to yarn. Saurer Autocard – create further value in the fibre preparation chain The new Autocard’s higher carding area means 18% higher output and even cleaner sliver. It also features LED lights for intelligent operator guidance. It was developed to create further value in the fibre preparation chain. It offers the right solutions to prepare all kinds of fibres for

52

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2022

the subsequent processes in the textile value chain. The right combination of blow room and carding machinery ensures excellent fibre utilisation and sliver quality, thus increasing the efficiency of the spinning process and improving the quality of yarn.

Autocoro – the most popular rotor-spinning machine in Turkey Clever solutions for more productivity, flexibility, yarn quality and sustainability are the recipe for success for Saurer spinning machines. The automation solutions of the Autocoro rotor spinning machine and the Autoairo air spinning machine pave the way to more independence from the availability of personnel, more output and quality assurance and also reduce spinning and raw material costs.

The Autocoro has an outstanding market position. In just 10 years, Saurer installed one million of Autocoro spinning positions with individual drive technology. The Autocoro is the market and technology leader, revolutionised automatic rotor-spinning technology and opened the door to more productivity, flexibility and sustainability for numerous customers worldwide.

ZR 72XL and ZI 72XL – the global benchmarks for intelligent spinning ZR 72XL/ZI 72XL are two highly productive ring- and compact-spinning machines. They set the global benchmarks for intelligent spinning, low energy consumption, user friendliness and flexible automation solutions. From the finest compact yarns for high-quality shirting fabrics to coarse denim effect yarns and recycled yarns – with their


Z172 XL

flexibility, the Saurer ring-spinning machines open up access to almost all applications. Equipped with the proven Optisuction and Twinsuction energysaving modules, the ZR 72XL/ZI 72XL additionally impress with highlights such as Impact FX, Draftbox, Spinnfinity and Optispeed. ZR 72XL/ZI 72XL, two all-rounders which, linked with any package winding machine, prove their efficiency on a daily basis and reduce labour and space requirements to a minimum.

Sun – Service Unlimited offers life cycle partnerships for all Saurer machines Profitable, durable and sustainable: Saurer offers customers a lifelong partnership for their rotor- and ringspinning mills. The company has been

CarpetCabler

present in Turkey for years with its own Customer Service Centre in Kahramanmara Saurer invites visitors to ITM to the Sun area at its booth: the company’s service experts will show them the latest offers for updates and upgrades, original parts and clever preventive services for their existing machinery. Visitors will also discover how they can also make older Autocoro and BD machines fit for the demanding processing of recycled fibres with profitable conversions and software upgrades. Saurer also offers free test versions for many Autocoro software upgrades.

See the full picture with Senses Senses is Saurer’s IOT platform that allows customers to connect all Saurer and third-party machines in one system. The application increases overall product

quality and productivity through detailed and transparent data monitoring across various production processes along the textile chain. In addition, Senses supports the user with important information to quickly find problem-solving solutions. Senses reduces textile mills’ labour costs by automatically collecting and analysing data – even for future use without loss of data. Senses Elements are modular extensions of Senses to manage customers’ mill and widen the function range in the areas that are particularly important depending on a customer’s individual needs. Customers can easily purchase the Senses Elements via the Saurer Senses Software Shop.

Texparts – Introducing the new E-shape spindle with 17.5 mm wharve diameter Eshape has a reduced wharve diameter. The double elastic spindle is based on CS 1 S, which has proven its worth over many decades. Outstanding running properties up to 30 000 rpm and about 4% energy saving are the key performance factors. Eshape combined with the best system for spinning without underwinding, Spinnfinity, is the perfect fit for automated and efficient ring spinning. Dirt-resistant, durable and lightweight – these are the qualities that enable Spinnfinity to reduce costs, increase productivity and improve ergonomics. The Saurer team looks forward to answering all visitor questions at the ITM Booth 310A in Hall 3 from 14 to 18 June 2022.

53


DiloGroup at ITM + Hightex 2022 Hall 9 (Hightex) the exhibitors will present the complete industry value chain from nonwovens raw materials, production machines and accessories to the endproduct. The related industries covered include hygiene, filtration, fabrics and apparel, medical, automotive, wipes, home furnishings and upholstery. DiloGroup offers tailor-made production systems from one supplier and will inform on booth # 905A about its portfolio and the latest equipment developments from fibre opening to the finished felt. As a leading group in the field of staple fibre nonwoven production lines DiloGroup will inform about complete lines as well as high speed needlelooms for spunbonds from fibre opening to the finished felt. A new, simplified elliptical needle beam drive makes Hyperpunch technology also attractive for standard application. Hyperpunch HαV allows a more uniform stitch distribution in the preneedling process especially in combination with the new needle pattern 6000X. In a complete needling line this felt homogenization process can be improved further. The new needle pattern 8000X is a milestone in the needle pattern development process and results in endproduct surfaces with low markings over a wide range of advances/stroke. Another strong pillar of Dilo’s sales program over decades has been fibre preparation and high speed webforming

successfully engineered and integrated. Until recently, Dilo did not supply complete lines including water-jet units, ovens and end-ofline equipment to the important hydroentanglement market segment. This has changed and Dilo is glad to confirm the partnership with Sicam, Italy. Together with Sicam, we have combined know-how for hydroentangling technology and therefore can provide complete lines as general contractor including equipment for cutting, winding and packaging. equipment for other nonwoven technologies. During these years, there has been a shift to higher throughput rates, and in some cases in Asia, a requirement for improved MD/CD strength ratios of hydroentangled products. In addition, our further development of the high-speed layering principle “Hyperlayer” made considerable progress for better CD strength through a combination of inline cards and crossline card with crosslapper. Particularly, carding machines in a working width above 3.5 m up to 5.1 m have been supplied by DiloSpinnbau as complete high speed carding systems, comprising two or even three cards in a line to directly feed the hydroentangling units of various suppliers. Together with Dilo, Temafa not only have high throughput rates been achieved in the fibre preparation section of the line but also dedusting filtering and air-conditioning systems have been

3D-Lofter

54

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - June 2022

Another interesting machine is the 3D-Lofter, first presented during ITMA 2019 in Barcelona, which offers a wider range of nonwovens applications by exploring the third dimension. A series of single web forming units which work according to the aerodynamic web forming principle deliver defined fibre masses in varied patterns on a base needlefelt. A stress oriented production of technical formed parts resulting in fibre savings or patterned DI-LOUR or DILOOP felts with or without repeat are two examples for this technology which explores new application areas for needlefelts. The 3D-Lofter technology may also be used “inverted” as “IsoFeed” for filling up bad spots in web mats and thus achieves a better homogeneity of spunlace or airlay products. The DiloLine 4.0 concept offer I4.0 modules which not only support the user but also facilitate quality control and maintenance by a maximum data transparency in production and control of operation. The Dilo solutions “Smart Start” for a fully automatic start of the production line or “DI-LOWATT” for energy savings are accompanied by Siemens solutions which can be selected via App or Data Cloud “MindSphere”. With more than 400 installations delivered to the nonwovens industry worldwide, DiloGroup has the necessary know-how and the complete equipment portfolio to engineer the perfect production line for any product specification. The efficiency of Dilo production lines is the result of long-term research work and experience.


MESDAN® the Italy-based leading manufacturer of Yarn Joining Solutions and Laboratory Testing Equipment MESDAN® S.p.A., the Italy-based leading manufacturer of YARN JOINING SOLUTIONS and LABORATORY TESTING EQUIPMENT will be again in the spotlight at two important forthcoming events: ITM exhibition (14 – 18 June), the most important textile machinery exhibition of Turkey. Mesdan will attend this show for the first time in its new Vandewiele corporate vest. Mesdan will be exhibiting in two locations on its agents booth: Hall 3, stand no. 309A with SARTEKS MAKINA, agent for the spinning sector (for both splicers and laboratory equipment). AUTOFIL, the very new fully automatic tensile strength tester for yarns and fabrics will be on display. Autofil is the spearhead of the Mesdan dynamometer range, which has been recently completely revised with the latest technology available. MOISTAIR, the milestone in the yarn joining technology supplied along the Savio automatic winders, today available also in the hand-operated version for the installation on assembly winders, twisting machines, creels, etc. Moistair is the ideal solution for splicing twisted cotton or when the range of plied yarns is very wide, from pure cotton to pure synthetics through all kinds of blends. MOISTAIR completes the range of other Mesdan automatic and handoperated splicers, like the famous JOINTAIR, AQUASPLICER and HOT JOINTAIR models. Hall 12 stand no. 1211 with SPOT TEKSTIL, agent for the fabrics/garments testing and for the dyeing and finishing sector.

Mesdan can offer complete laboratory solutions for all fabric testing (weaving, knitting, dyeing, garment) as well as for third party testing Labs and testing institutes. Physical testing (strength, elongation, tearing, abrasion, pilling, air & water permeability, dimensional stability, etc.), colour fastness (to washing, rubbing, light exposure, perspiration), fire and comfort testing are part of the Mesdan-Lab catalogue as well.

TECHTEXTIL show (21 -24 June), Frankfurt. Mesdan will be present at the ACIMIT/ITA (the Association of Italian textile machinery manufacturers/Italian Trade Agency) exhibition space along with other 28 Italian textile machinery manufacturers.

    

Bursting & tearing Air and water permeability Water vapour absorption Static electricity Wear (Martindale) and pilling, Impact Abrasion  Flammability and evalauation of burn risks  All kind of dimensional stability and color fastness testing (rubbing, sunlight, washing, etc.) Finally, Mesdan is the European sales & service station of THERMETRICS USA, manufacturer of precision instruments for measuring and evaluating the thermal comfort properties of textiles, garments, protective apparel, as well as dynamic thermal environments such as car, truck and aircraft interiors.

When technical and PPI (weather protective, fire protective, against mechanical risks) are concerned, here is a condensed list of the main testing parameters that can be assessed with the Mesdan-Lab range:  Strength (up to 50kN capacity), perforation, fatigue (cycle testing), stretch recovery, elongation, tear, adhesion, etc.  Cutting resistance (with circular and linear blades)

63


Classified

ADVERTISERS INDEX JUNE 2022

Archroma ...................................................................9 AVM Chemicals .....................................................6 & 56 Benninger....................................................................15 Chhipasons.................................................................56 CCI USA.....................................................................FC DyStar ........................................................................3 Epson ........................................................................25 Fine Industries ..........................................................19 IGATEX Pakistan 2022..............................................IBC ITMA Asia + Citme 2022 ...........................................27 Intex South Asia .........................................................45 iTextiles ......................................................................29 Jet Logistics ................................................................56 Picanol........................................................................21 Rastgar .............................................................. 39 & 56 Rieter.........................................................................1 Santex Rimar Group...................................................17 Established 1951

Established 1951

SPGPrints...................................................................BC SSM ...........................................................................13 Suzhou Liansheng Chemistry.....................................IFC Swissmem .................................................................11

April 2022

Dyeing, Printing and Finishing I / FESPA 2022

May 2022

German Review / Techtextil 2022 / ITM 2022




Turn static files into dynamic content formats.

Create a flipbook

Articles inside

DiloGroup at ITM + Hightex 2022

3min
page 56

Laboratory Testing Equipment

3min
pages 57-60

intelligent spinning

3min
pages 54-55

Mayer & Cie. at the ITM

2min
page 53

TEXO Compfelt looms – built to scale, and built to last

3min
page 50

One-stop source for warp feeding and weaving preparation

2min
page 52

Inauguration of Groz-Beckert’s first weaving showroom in India

1min
pages 46-47

solutions at ITM 2022

4min
pages 48-49

YARNMASTER® PRISMA for clear reasons

3min
pages 42-43

Pakistan has become a Denim Hub

6min
pages 44-45

Card C 80: High Productivity with a Challenging Raw Material

6min
pages 38-41

About the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol

3min
pages 36-37

Shareholders approve all resolutions via the Independent Proxy

2min
pages 20-21

Trützschler sets ambitious targets for climate neutrality

3min
pages 24-25

Catering for diversity – Monforts at Techtextil North America

2min
pages 34-35

Stage set for 9th Intex South Asia – Bangladesh Edition in June 2022 in Dhaka

3min
pages 32-33

color basics

3min
pages 28-29

investments in innovation and sustainability

3min
pages 26-27

wear at outdoor retailer summer 2022

3min
pages 30-31

BB Engineering shortlisted for Plastics Recycling Awards Europe

2min
pages 22-23
Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.