Available on Gale and Factiva affiliated international databases through Asianet Pakistan
Printed at: Color Plus Korangi, Karachi.
Published by Nadeem Mazhar from D-16, K.D.A. Scheme No.1. Karachi.
CORPORATE NEWS
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DYES AND CHEMICAL
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PERSONALIA
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FEATURES
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WEAVING
Pakistan’s Role in the Global Denim Market
by Nadeem Mazhar,
Managing Editor, Pakistan Textile Journal.
Techtextil and Texprocess
Techtextil & Texprocess score with growth and set as drivers of innovation the course for future-proof industries
Glimpses of Techtextil and Texprocess2024
IGATEX PAKISTAN 2024
IGATEX Pakistan 2024 concluded with global participation and high hopes for the textile industry
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Picanol at IGATEX Pakistan 2024
Andritz at IGATEX PAKISTAN
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Diversify your denim dyeing with the Monforts Thermex
Erbatech’s excellent solutions for continuous knit processing
Rieter: The Easy way to Upgrade your Yarn
Baldwin’s sustainable solutions at IGATEX Pakistan 2024
FABRIC and yarn DYEING with Thies
Karl Mayer Warp Preparation at IGATEX Pakistan
Stäubli: Trend-setting technology for the industry
Goller’s wide range of premium machinery
Temsan Air Engineering: Combining experience with ours will lead to perfection
COLOURizd™ Partners with (TEP) to Bring QuantumCOLOUR Technology to Pakistan
Mayer & Cie MFC 3.2: Our performance for your profit
Glimpses of IGATEX PAKISTAN 2024
Textile Exports in Pakistan: Growth Amidst Challenges
The textile sector, a cornerstone of Pakistan's economy, has shown a promising rebound in recent months, providing a beacon of hope amidst a sea of economic challenges. In May 2024, Pakistan's textile exports surged by 18% year-on-year to approximately USD 1.56 billion, continuing the positive trend since December 2023. This uptick, primarily driven by the clearance of backlog orders and the advent of the summer season, also represented a 26% increase on a month-over-month basis.
However, the year-to-date performance paints a more nuanced picture. For the first eleven months of FY24, cumulative textile exports reached around USD 15.2 billion, marking a marginal 1% increase from the same period last year . The breakdown of textile exports reveals divergent trends within the sector. While basic textile exports declined for the third consecutive month, value-added exports surged by 29% year-on-year, driven by higher exports of knitwear, bedwear, and ready-made garments.
Despite these gains, the sector faces formidable challenges. The government's FY25 budget proposes significant changes that could impede the sector's growth. The planned increase in the power tariff by 2 cents/kWh, bringing it to 16.4 cents/kWh, and the shift from a final tax regime on exports to a normal tax regime with taxes rising to 39% including a super tax, are likely to strain the industry's profitability . Additionally, the proposed increase in sales tax from 15% to 18% on local supplies will further erode margins.
Moreover, adverse weather conditions pose a serious threat to the sector. A heatwave has already damaged 50,000 acres of cotton plantations in Sindh, and the Pakistan Meteorological Department has forecasted a flash drought due to low rainfall and high temperatures . These factors contribute to the overall uncertainty and volatility facing the sector.
In light of these challenges, the government's recent announcement to reduce the industrial electricity tariff by PKR 10.69/unit is a welcome move. This measure aims to enhance the competitiveness of export-oriented industries by reducing production costs, potentially stimulating further growth in exports .
The textile sector's future hinges on the government's ability to balance fiscal measures with the need to support key industries. The proposed budgetary changes, if not carefully managed, could undermine the sector's recent gains and exacerbate the economic challenges facing the country. It is imperative for policymakers to consider the long-term implications of these measures and work collaboratively with industry stakeholders to ensure sustainable growth and stability.
June 2024
1
Pakistan earned $13,683.251 million from the export of textile products during the first 10 months of the current financial year (2023-24), according to a report by the Pakistan Bureau of Statistics (PBS). This represents a slight decline of 0.19 percent compared to the $13,709.246 million earned during the same period in the previous financial year (2022-23).
2
The All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) has called for significant economic reforms to boost the country’s textile industry, which plays a crucial role in the national economy through exports, investment, and employment. At a press conference held at the APTMA office, Central
Chairman Asif Inam outlined key demands, including a reduction in the power tariff to 9 cents/kWh, lowering the interest rate to 12 percent, and the restoration of zero rating for the textile sector.
3
A delegation from the Pakistan Cotton Ginner Association (PCGA) recently met with Provincial Minister for Industries and Commerce, Chaudhry Shafay Hussain, to discuss pressing issues affecting the ginning industry. Key topics included the excise highway tax on ginning factories, imported cotton seed, and the tax on Binola, among other concerns.
4
Punjab's Minister for Industries, Commerce, and Investment, Shafay
Textile Briefs International
1
Bangladesh has recently implemented a substantial increase in the minimum wage for workers in the cotton textile sector. The new gross monthly minimum wage has been set at Tk 10,001 ($91.06), a notable rise from the previous Tk 5,710 ($51.99) established in 2018. This adjustment, which encompasses ten worker grades, aims to improve the financial stability and quality of life for textile sector employees.
2
China’s textile and garment exports saw a modest increase in January-April 2024, despite facing various challenges in the global market, including supply chain disruptions and fluctuating consumer
Hussain, has announced a series of initiatives aimed at bolstering the textile sector and attracting Chinese investors to the province. During his visit to the All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) on Wednesday, Hussain emphasized that Punjab will offer incentives surpassing those provided by Bangladesh to enhance apparel exports through the development of industrial parks.
5
The All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) has urgently requested the intervention of Prime Minister Shehbaz Sharif to address the critical issue of detained imported cotton consignments at ports. The prolonged detention, caused by what APTMA
describes as illegal actions by the Directorate General of the Department of Plant Protection (DG DPP) Karachi, has resulted in significant financial burdens and threatens the textile industry's stability.
6
Pakistan and China signed 32 memorandums of understanding (MoUs) across various sectors including IT, textiles, leather and footwear, minerals, pharmaceuticals, and agriculture and food processing. This landmark event took place during the second day of Prime Minister Shehbaz Sharif's visit to China, aimed at attracting much-needed foreign direct investment (FDI) into Pakistan.
demand. This growth reflects the sector’s adaptability and competitiveness, highlighting China’s continued prominence in the global textile and garment trade.
3
The textile sorting and recycling industry across Europe is facing an unprecedented crisis, with urgent alarms sounding from the Netherlands, Germany, and the UK. Without immediate intervention, this crisis could lead to irreversible economic and environmental damage.
4
India is to witness a significant decline of nearly 31 percent in cotton stocks during the 2023/24 season, marking the lowest levels in over three decades. This drop is attrib-
uted to reduced production and increased consumption within the country.
5
Efforts led by the International Labour Organisation (ILO) alongside various stakeholders are making significant strides in ensuring compliance with labor standards and protecting workers’ rights in Kenya’s textile industry. This initiative is part of the ILO’s All Hands in Kenya (AHK) project, emphasizing the importance of strong labor institutions and effective regulations in fostering fair and productive employment practices.
6
The Nigerian Minister of Industry, Trade, and Investment, Doris Uzoka-Anite, revealed that
the Federal Government has successfully attracted $3.5 billion in investments aimed at revitalizing Nigeria’s textile, cotton, and apparel industry within just one year.
7
The United States announced a ban on imports from numerous China-based textile companies due to concerns over forced labor in their supply chains. The move targets 26 new entities added to the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act (UFLPA) list, with 21 of these companies identified for sourcing and selling cotton from the Xinjiang region on the wholesale market. An additional five companies were found to procure cotton from the same region.
Pakistan's Textile Exports Signals Mixed Trends in First 10 Months of FY 2023-24
Pakistan earned $13,683.251 million from the export of textile products during the first 10 months of the current financial year (2023-24), according to a report by the Pakistan Bureau of Statistics (PBS). This represents a slight decline of 0.19 percent compared to the $13,709.246 million earned during the same period in the previous financial year (2022-23).
Despite the overall decline, several textile commodities experienced positive trade growth. Notably, the exports of raw cotton saw a remarkable increase of 319.91 percent, rising from $13.357 million last year to $15.944 million this year. Similarly, the exports of cotton yarn grew by 32.83 percent, from $636.832 million to $845.923 million, and bed wear exports increased by 1.82 percent, from $2,249.778 million to $2,290.796 million.
Other products that saw an uptick in exports included towels, which surged by 4.81 percent from $824.879 million to $864.547 million. Made-up articles also experienced a modest increase of 0.67 percent, growing from $585.102 million to $589.026 million.
Conversely, some textile commodities witnessed a decline in exports. Cotton cloth exports fell by 7.53 percent, from $1,684.724 million to $1,557.909 million. Exports of cotton carded or combed dropped by 15.93 percent, from $0.996 million to $0.837 million, and yarn other
than cotton yarn decreased by 20.76 percent, from $36.302 million to $28.766 million.
Knitwear exports also saw a decline of 3.92 percent, from $3,712.066 million to $3,566.624 million, while exports of tents, canvas, and tarpaulin decreased by 16.52 percent, from $116.959 million to $97.632 million. Ready-made garments saw a slight decline of 0.57 percent, falling from $2,904.693 million to $2,888.177 million.
The exports of art, silk, and synthetic textiles also fell by 12.08 percent, decreasing from $342.917 million to $301.496 million, and the exports of all other textile materials went down by 0.87 percent, from $600.642 million to $595.432 million.
On a year-on-year basis, textile exports showed a slight increase of 0.37 percent, rising from $1,232.803 million in
April 2023 to $1,237.316 million in April 2024. However, on a month-on-month basis, textile exports decreased by 4.84 percent, dropping from $1,300.288 million in March 2024.
APTMA Calls for Urgent Reforms to Boost Pakistan’s Textile Industry
The All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) has called for significant economic reforms to boost the country’s textile industry, which plays a crucial role in the national economy through exports, investment, and employment. At a press conference held at the APTMA office, Central Chairman Asif Inam outlined key demands, including a reduction in the power tariff to 9 cents/kWh, lowering the interest rate to 12 percent, and the restoration of zero rating for the textile sector.
Chairman Asif Inam emphasized the need for a reduced power tariff, advocating for a rate of 9 cents/kWh. He pointed out that the industry is currently burdened with Rs 240 billion in cross subsidies and over Rs 150 billion in stranded costs. According to Inam, supplying electricity at the proposed rate would not only generate an additional 300 megawatts of grid demand but also yield Rs 500 billion in revenue.
Inam highlighted the disparity between the current interest rate of 22 percent and the country’s reduced inflation rate of 11.8 percent. He argued that lowering the interest rate to 12 percent could save the government approximately Rs 3 trillion in interest
payments. This adjustment is critical for fostering a conducive environment for investment and growth in the textile sector.
The APTMA has called for the restoration of zero rating across all manufacturing stages of the textile value chain. Chairman (North) Kamran Arshad explained that levying sales tax solely on the sale of end products suitable for consumer use would help arrest the decline in production and exports of textile products. This shift would also mitigate the liquidity crunch faced by exporters and curb malpractices such as fake invoices and tax frauds.
Inam proposed that the government collect sales tax at the retail stage, which has the potential to generate over Rs 250 billion. This approach would relieve exporters from the mounting liquidity crunch and streamline tax collection.
Senior Vice Chairman Asad Shafi noted that the textile sector previously benefited from regionally competitive energy tariffs (RCET) of 9 cents/kWh in 2021-22, leading to a record growth in textile and apparel exports by 54 percent, from $12.5 billion in FY20 to $19.3 billion
in FY22. However, current power tariffs for export-oriented firms have escalated to approximately 17.5 cents/kWh, making production financially unfeasible. In comparison, regional competitors like Bangladesh, India, and Vietnam offer significantly lower power tariffs to their textile industries.
Arshad underscored the importance of maintaining positive real interest rates to ensure the persistence of declining inflation. With overall inflation projected to remain between 13 and 15 percent next year, the State Bank of Pakistan (SBP) should aim for a medium-term inflation target of 5-7 percent by September 2025, making single-digit inflation a tangible possibility.
Cotton Ginner Association Meets Provincial Minister to Address Industry Challenges
A delegation from the Pakistan Cotton Ginner Association (PCGA) recently met with Provincial Minister for Industries and Commerce, Chaudhry Shafay Hussain, to discuss pressing issues affecting the ginning industry. Key topics
included the excise highway tax on ginning factories, imported cotton seed, and the tax on Binola, among other concerns.
The delegation emphasized the burden of the excise highway tax on ginning factories and sought relief from the government. Additionally, they raised issues related to the importation of cotton seed, which is crucial for the industry's productivity and competitiveness.
The ginners also addressed the taxation on Binola (cottonseed oilcake), a by-product of the ginning process, requesting a review to support the financial viability of ginning operations.
Chaudhry Shafay Hussain,
The delegation proposed the establishment of a new industrial estate in Multan to foster economic growth and support the local ginning industry.
Minister Chaudhry Shafay Hussain responded positively, assuring the delegation that their problems would be prioritized and addressed efficiently.
Minister Hussain acknowledged the economic significance of cotton as a cash crop and the need for awareness among farmers. He noted that while sugar mill owners reap substantial profits, they often delay payments to farmers, an issue that the government is keen to address.
Highlighting the importance of the textile sector as a major employment source, Minister Hussain mentioned the development of Garment City near Lahore, which spans 2,000 acres and aims to promote the textile industry. Additionally, a business facilitation center has been established in Multan, staffed by officers from 25 federal and provincial departments to assist industrialists.
To further support industrial growth, Minister Hussain ordered a survey to identify barren land in Multan for the establishment of a new industrial estate. This initiative is expected to provide much-needed infrastructure for the ginning and broader textile industries.
The delegation comprised notable figures from the Pakistan Cotton Ginner Association, including Chairman Chaudhry Waheed Arshad, Sohail Haral, Muhammad Akram, and others. Their proactive engagement with the government highlights the industry's commitment to addressing its challenges and fostering growth.
Punjab Government to Offer Competitive Incentives to Boost Textile Sector and Attract Chinese Investment
Punjab's Minister for Industries, Commerce, and Investment, Shafay Hussain, has announced a series of initiatives aimed at bolstering the textile sector and attracting Chinese investors to the province. During his visit to the All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) on earlier this month, Hussain emphasized that Punjab will offer incentives surpassing those provided by Bangladesh to enhance apparel exports through the development of industrial parks.
Hussain assured that the Punjab government is working on a mechanism to ensure policy stability, irrespective of political changes. This stability is crucial for maintaining investor confidence. Additionally, the government will
guarantee full-scale security for Chinese investors operating within the province, addressing one of the primary concerns for foreign businesses.
Under the direction of Chief Minister Maryam Nawaz, a highpowered committee has been established to study global best practices, particularly from Bangladesh, for setting up and operating garment cities. These industrial parks will follow the ‘Plug and Play Model,’ providing state-of-the-art infrastructure designed to attract both foreign and local investors.
The committee is tasked with making comprehensive recommendations on all aspects of establishing garment parks, whether in existing industrial estates or new locations. This initiative aims to create a conducive environment for investment and boost the region's textile manufacturing capabilities.
The minister expressed hope that APTMA would offer technical assistance and expertise to the Punjab government in this endeavor. He also pledged to resolve outstanding issues, including waiving penalties related to social security for textile mills.
Chairing a subsequent meeting, Minister Hussain revealed that significant progress has been made towards the establishment of a garment city in Punjab. The fifth meeting of the
Maryam Nawaz; Chief Minister Punjab
committee tasked with recommending the garment city's setup reviewed various proposals, including the utilization of rooftop areas for solar energy and options for land selection.
The committee aims to finalize its recommendations in the next meeting, which will then be presented to the Chief Minister for approval. This garment city, envisioned to be a unique project in the province's history, will span an area of 2,000 acres, equipped with modern facilities to support large-scale textile manufacturing.
Hussain's announcements are part of a broader strategy to enhance industrial growth and economic stability in Punjab. By offering competitive incentives and ensuring policy consistency, the Punjab government aims to attract substantial foreign direct investment, particularly from China. This initiative aligns with Pakistan's broader goals of increasing exports and improving the industrial sector's contribution to the national economy.
APTMA Urges Prime Minister's Intervention for Release of Imported Cotton Shipments
The All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) has urgently requested the intervention of Prime Minister Shehbaz Sharif to address the critical issue of detained imported cotton consignments at ports. The prolonged detention, caused by what APTMA describes as illegal actions by the Directorate General of the Department of Plant Protection (DG DPP) Karachi, has resulted in significant financial burdens and threatens the textile industry's stability.
For the past three to four months, cotton imports from the USA and Brazil have been blocked at the ports, incurring demurrage charges exceeding Rs 50 million. These charges, paid in dollars to
foreign companies, are exacerbating Pakistan’s economic strain. APTMA emphasized that the ongoing blockage is disrupting operations, jeopardizing export targets, and diminishing the industry’s global competitiveness.
The shipments in question were dispatched under valid import permits. However, unforeseen transit delays, beyond the importers' control, led to the shipments arriving after the permits had expired. Despite submitting detailed documentation of these delays and the import permits for review, the DG DPP has not granted the necessary release orders.
APTMA highlighted that despite multiple appeals to the Ministry of National Food Security and Research (MNFSR), the Ministry of Commerce, the Ministry of Interior, and other relevant authorities, no action has been taken by the DG DPP. This is despite assurances from the MNFSR following a letter from the Prime Minister's office. The DG DPP's refusal to act is attributed to ongoing Federal Investigation Agency (FIA) investigations against his department.
The DG DPP is withholding release orders, ostensibly to exert pressure on the FIA regarding its investigations. This arbitrary decision has led to numerous cotton shipments languishing at ports, accruing heavy demurrage charges detrimental to both the involved foreign companies and the Pakistani economy.
APTMA accused the DG DPP of misusing his authority, causing unjust punishment for the entire industry. This standstill persists despite earnest appeals and interventions from the Secretary of the MNFSR. APTMA highlighted those similar cases had been resolved in the past by the DG DPP, who has the authority to grant release orders.
APTMA has requested that Prime Minister Shehbaz Sharif direct the MNFSR to instruct the DG DPP Karachi to issue a one-time release order for the blocked cotton shipments. This release should be facilitated by leveraging the advisory powers of the MNFSR and should be contingent upon importers submitting an affidavit agreeing to comply with any fines or regulations following the amendment of the Pakistan Plant Quarantine Rules 2019 (S.R.O).
Pakistan and China Forge Stronger Economic Ties with 32 MoUs Signed
Pakistan and China signed 32 memorandums of understanding (MoUs) across various sectors including IT, textiles, leather and footwear, minerals, pharmaceuticals, and agriculture and food processing. This landmark event took place during the second day of Prime Minister Shehbaz Sharif's visit to China, aimed at attracting much-needed foreign direct investment (FDI) into Pakistan.
The agreements, signed during the Pakistan Business Conference in Shenzhen, underscore the deepening economic ties between the two nations. The focus of Prime Minister Sharif’s visit has been on fostering business-tobusiness (B2B) engagements and seeking enhancements for the China-Pakistan Economic Corridor (CPEC), a pivotal component of President Xi Jinping’s Belt and Road Initiative. Since 2015, China has committed over $60 billion to Pakistan under CPEC.
The Prime Minister's Office (PMO) hailed the signing ceremony as a historic moment, emphasizing the potential for these agreements to introduce Pakistani products to regional markets and enhance government-business relations.
National Bank of Pakistan President Rehmat Ali Shamsi, part of the delegation, highlighted the productive nature of the conference, noting the active participation and multiple MoUs signed. This initiative is expected to usher in an unprecedented level of industrial cooperation between the two countries, potentially transforming Pakistan's economic landscape.
Additional Secretary of the Board of Investment, Dr. Erfa Iqbal, expressed optimism about the high-level industrial cooperation anticipated from China, which is crucial for boosting Pakistan's exports and enabling local products to penetrate international markets. This enhanced cooperation is also expected to significantly strengthen CPEC as it enters its second phase.
M. Shehbaz Sharif, Prime Minister of Pakistan
BANGLADESH
Bangladesh Announces Significant Increase in Minimum Wage for Textile Sector Workers
Bangladesh has recently implemented a substantial increase in the minimum wage for workers in the cotton textile sector. The new gross monthly minimum wage has been set at Tk 10,001 ($91.06), a notable rise from the previous Tk 5,710 ($51.99) established in 2018. This adjustment, which encompasses ten worker grades, aims to improve the financial stability and quality of life for textile sector employees.
The Labour Ministry issued a notification announcing the new wage structure, which will take effect from March 1 this year. The breakdown of the new wage includes a basic pay of Tk 5,162 for town areas in sub-districts, supplemented by several allowances: 55% of the basic pay (Tk 2,839) for house rent, Tk 750 for medical expenses, Tk 400 for travel, and Tk 850 for food.
For grade 10 workers in district towns and divisional cities, the house rent allowance is set at 60% and 70% of the basic pay, respectively. The Labour Ministry has slightly increased the basic pay and reduced the house rent percentage from the wage board's initial proposal, maintaining the overall gross amount unchanged.
The government has outlined the new monthly minimum wages for various worker grades as follows: Tk 10,001 for grade 10, Tk 10,417 for grade 9, Tk 10,643 for grade 8, Tk 10,962 for grade 7, Tk 11,250 for grade 6, Tk 11,570 for grade 5, Tk 11,889 for grade 4, Tk 12,723 for grade 3, Tk 13,250 for grade 2, and Tk 14,307 for grade 1. In addition to these, six employee grades have been incorporated into the sector with minimum wages starting at Tk 10,001 for grade 6 employees.
The wages for employees in grades 5, 4, 3, 2, and 1 are set at Tk 10,547, Tk 11,378, Tk 13,250, Tk 15,361, and Tk 18,545, respectively. This wage increase is expected to provide better economic security for workers, addressing the inflationary pressures and enhancing their living standards.
CHINA
China’s Textile and Garment Exports Show Resilience Amid Global Challenges
China’s textile and garment exports saw a modest increase in January-April 2024, despite facing various challenges in the global market, including supply chain disruptions and fluctuating consumer demand. This growth reflects the sector’s adaptability and competitiveness, highlighting China’s continued prominence in the global textile and garment trade.
The incremental rise in exports underscores China’s longstanding position as a major player in this industry, driven by its robust manufacturing capabilities, extensive supply chain networks, and
cost-effective production processes. However, amidst evolving trade policies, shifting consumer preferences, and geopolitical dynamics, the future trajectory of China’s exports warrants close attention from industry stakeholders.
Despite challenges such as rising production costs, labor shortages, and competition from emerging manufacturing hubs, China’s textile and garment sector has maintained its momentum. Manufacturers have been
proactive in leveraging technology and innovation to stay competitive, contributing to the sector's resilience in the face of adversity.
Keeping abreast of these developments will be crucial for industry players navigating the dynamic landscape. While China's textile and garment exports have shown resilience in the early months of 2024, staying ahead of evolving trends and challenges will be essential for sustaining growth and competitiveness in the long run
EUROPEAN UNION
European Textile Recycling Industry on the Brink of Collapse: Urgent Action Needed
The textile sorting and recycling industry across Europe is facing an unprecedented crisis, with urgent alarms sounding from the Netherlands, Germany, and the UK. Without immediate intervention, this crisis could lead to irreversible economic and environmental damage.
The industry is grappling with escalating operational costs and a significant drop in sales due to intense global competition and legislative gaps. These challenges are putting valuable reusable textile resources and the circular economy at risk. Unsold second-hand clothing, stemming from a global sales decline, exacerbates the problem as the lack of viable business models for recycling could result in discarded textiles being incinerated rather than reused or recycled.
Mariska Boer, President of EuRIC’s Textiles Branch, expressed grave concern: “The prospect of incineration becoming the only remaining option if sorting discarded textiles becomes financially unviable is deeply alarming. All industry efforts to create a sustainable textile value chain in a circular economy would be in vain when textiles can no longer be collected and sorted in Europe. When second-hand clothing can no longer be supplied to countries that depend on it, this will have a massive economic impact both locally and within the EU.”
EuRIC has consistently called for urgent EU-wide action to prevent the collapse of the continent’s textile reuse and recycling sector. Key measures proposed include:
Supportive EPR Schemes: Implementing Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) schemes under the revised Waste Framework Directive (WFD) to ensure producers take responsibility for the end-of-life management of textile products.
Green Public Procurement: Introducing measures that require the use of recycled content in public sector procurement to drive demand for recycled textiles.
Mandatory Recycled Content: Setting mandatory recycled content requirements in textile products to stimulate the market for recycled materials.
Recyclability Criteria: Introducing recyclability criteria through the ecodesign regulation (ESPR) to encourage
the design of products that are easier to recycle.
The failure to address these issues could have severe economic and environmental repercussions. The collapse of the textile recycling industry would not only lead to a loss of valuable materials but also undermine efforts to build a sustainable circular economy. The incineration of textiles would contribute to increased carbon emissions and the loss of potential resources that could otherwise be reused or recycled.
INDIA
India's Cotton Stocks Expected to Drop to 30-Year Low, Impacting Global Market Dynamics
India is to witness a significant decline of nearly 31 percent in cotton stocks during the 2023/24 season, marking the lowest levels in over three decades. This drop is attributed to reduced production and increased consumption within the country.
The dwindling cotton stocks are anticipated to restrict exports from India, the world's second-largest producer, which could support global prices while posing challenges to domestic textile companies in terms of margins. For the marketing year 2024/25, India’s cotton production is forecasted to decrease by 2 percent to 25.4 million 480 lb. bales, with
farmers shifting focus to crops offering higher returns.
However, despite reduced production, domestic mill consumption in India is expected to rise by 2 percent, driven by growing demand for yarn and textiles in major international markets. Moreover, with the removal of import duty on extralong staple (ELS) cotton, imports are projected to surge by 20 percent.
Cotton futures prices witnessed a 1.7 percent increase, closing at INR 58,680, buoyed by robust demand for Indian cotton from countries like Bangladesh and Vietnam, despite sluggish domestic mill demand. The International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC) forecasts growth in cotton-producing areas, production, consumption, and trade for the upcoming 2024-25 season.
From a technical standpoint, the cotton futures market is experiencing fresh buying, with open interest rising by 1.84 percent to settle at 332 contracts, accompanied by a price surge of 980 rupees. Presently, support for cotton futures stands at 57,920, with a potential test of 57,160 if this level is breached. Resistance is expected at 59,120, with a move above likely testing 59,560. While demand remains robust, market dynamics and technical indicators will play a crucial role in shaping price movements in the cotton futures market.
KENYA
ILO and Partners Drive Labor Standards Compliance in Kenya's Textile Sector
Efforts led by the International Labour Organisation (ILO) alongside various stakeholders are making significant strides in ensuring compliance with labor standards and protecting workers’ rights in Kenya’s textile industry. This initiative is part of the ILO’s All Hands in Kenya (AHK) project, emphasizing the importance of strong labor institutions and effective regulations in fostering fair and productive employment practices.
In collaboration with key players such as the Federation of Kenya Employers (FKE), the Central Organisation of Trade Unions, and the Ministry of Labour and Social Protection, the ILO facilitated the
development of a comprehensive Code of Practice aimed at promoting workplace compliance in Kenya's textile sector.
This Code of Practice provides clear guidelines and procedures for managing grievances, outlining the evolution of grievance mechanisms and aligning with national labor laws and international standards. It also incorporates best practices to support collective bargaining and enhance collaboration between employers and workers.
Recognizing the inevitability of conflicts in workplaces, the Code focuses on establishing effective dispute resolution processes to prevent and address disputes promptly. These mechanisms are vital for maintaining a conducive work environment that prioritizes fairness and equity.
NIGERIA
Nigerian Government claim’s Securing $3.5 Billion Investment to Revitalize Textile Sector
The Nigerian Minister of Industry, Trade, and Investment, Doris UzokaAnite, revealed that the Federal Government has successfully attracted $3.5 billion in investments aimed at revitalizing Nigeria’s textile, cotton, and apparel industry within just one year.
Speaking during a ministerial press briefing in Abuja, Uzoka-Anite emphasized that this significant investment is part of the government's
initiative to breathe new life into the long-dormant textile sector, which encompasses the entire clothing value chain in Nigeria.
The minister highlighted that investment in the textile industry will create employment opportunities for both skilled and unskilled labor across the country. "The Ministry is developing a resurgence plan for the Nigeria cotton, textile, and apparel industry in collaboration with development partners and private sector stakeholders. We have attracted $3.5 billion to unlock the textile, cotton, and apparel industry," she stated.
Uzoka-Anite highlighted the importance of the textile sector as a major contributor to Nigeria's manufacturing sector, with immense potential for employment generation and export earnings. She emphasized that the revitalization of this industry would contribute significantly to poverty reduction in the country.
However, despite the government's efforts, Nigeria's textile industry continues to face challenges. Once a thriving hub with about 180 textile mills and over a million employees in the 1970s, the sector has experienced a decline due to issues like smuggling, unchecked importation, power shortages, inconsistent government policies, and growing insecurity.
Recent data from the National Bureau of Statistics (NBS) revealed that the textile industry contributed a negative 1.75 percent to Nigeria’s Gross Domestic Product (GDP) in the first quarter of 2024, highlighting the need for urgent intervention to revitalize this crucial sector.
USA
U.S. Blocks Imports from Chinese Textile Companies over Forced Labor Concerns
The United States announced a ban on imports from numerous China-based textile companies due to concerns over forced labor in their supply chains. The move targets 26 new entities added to the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act (UFLPA) list, with 21 of these companies identified for sourcing and selling cotton from the Xinjiang region on the wholesale market. An additional five companies were found to procure cotton from the same region.
These targeted entities include cotton traders and warehouse facilities across China, primarily operating outside of Xinjiang. This action follows accusations against Beijing of detaining over one million Uyghurs and other Muslim minorities in a network of facilities in Xinjiang, allegations that Chinese officials have consistently denied.
The UFLPA prohibits the import of all goods from Xinjiang unless companies can provide verifiable evidence that forced labor was not involved in their production. "We will continue to enforce our textile strategy and hold the PRC accountable for their exploitation and abuse of the Uyghur people," stated Secretary of Homeland Security Alejandro Mayorkas, referencing the People's Republic of China.
Italian Textile Machinery: Orders remain stationary for the first quarter of 2024
For Italian textile machinery sector, 2024 has begun without anything seemingly special. The first quarter has seen the orders index, as reported by the Economics Department of ACIMIT – the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers – remain stationary compared to the same period the previous year. In absolute terms, the index came in at 61.2 points (basis: 2021=100).
This result is due to entirely different trends between the domestic and foreign markets. On the home front, orders were up 15% compared to the first three months of 2023, whereas orders abroad fell by 4%. The absolute value of the index on foreign markets came in at 59.4 points, in comparison to a 73.9 points in Italy. In both cases, new orders remained well below the numbers recorded for 2021, considered as a base year. During
the first quarter, order backlog reached 4 months of assured production.
ACIMIT president Marco Salvadè thus commented the data: “The orders intake for the period from January to March 2024 confirms an overall sense of caution on foreign markets in planning new investments. The global geo-political framework remains complex, and these uncertainties are reflected in the buying decisions of many textile manufacturers. Therefore, our primary markets, which include China, Turkey and India, have failed to record any clear signs of growth in demand.”
On the contrary, domestic orders appear to be slightly on the rise.
“Following a sharp decline in 2023, new orders from the beginning of the current year have recovered partially,” states ACIMIT’s president. “However, I don’t believe conditions are yet right for a clear inversion of this trend. Here in Italy as
well, many investments remain on hold, awaiting the implementation of Transition 5.0 plan. Subsequently, we’ll be in a position see whether the domestic market will react positively to the adoption of these new measures.”
Marco Salvade, President, ACIMIT.
The Good Cashmere Standard Boosts Its Sustainability Credentials With Focus on Animal Welfare and Transparency
By revising the standard’s criteria and embarking on a new collaboration with TextileGenesis, A Lectra Company, the Aid by Trade Foundation (AbTF) is boosting the credentials of The Good Cashmere Standard® (GCS) as an independent seal for sustainably produced and traceable cashmere fibres from Inner Mongolia. Version 2.0 of the standard, its latest, places greater emphasis on animal welfare in cashmere production. In addition, AbTF is underlining its commitment to transparency and traceability in the production chain by working with TextileGenesis, A Lectra Company, which provides a platform for tracing textiles.
“We are certain that the Aid by Trade Foundation’s revision of The Good Cashmere Standard will serve to further prioritise the welfare of the goats,” states Tina Stridde, the managing director of the Aid by Trade Foundation, adding, “To accelerate progress towards achieving transparency and traceability from raw cashmere to the final product, we are also working with TextileGenesis, an established, technologically innovative platform.”
The Good Cashmere Standard 2.0
Following its revision by the Aid by Trade Foundation, GCS Version 2.0 is built on four pillars that encompass the key aspects of sustainable cashmere
production: cashmere goat welfare, the environment, people, and management. With these pillars and the accompanying criteria, GCS is effectively and comprehensively moving cashmere production towards greater sustainability, both at the farms and in the first stage of processing cashmere fibres, which takes place at buying and dehairing stations.
The revision revolves around goat welfare. This is also the first pillar, which was developed on the basis of David J. Mellor’s model of five domains of animal welfare. In accordance with the model, the standard’s first pillar addresses five clearly defined aspects: nutrition, environment, health, behaviour, and mental state. Fulfilling the criteria of this
pillar means not only meeting the goats’ physical needs but also providing them with positive emotional experiences.
Also coming up this year is the launch of a pilot project for animal welfare assessments. The assessments are based on the Animal Welfare Indicator Protocol (AWIN) and, taken together with GCS criteria, paint a comprehensive picture of animal welfare conditions. To supplement the detailed information collected through audits, at least one indicator was selected for each of the assessment’s four sections—nutrition, environment, health, and behaviour—as a way of taking the animals’ perspective into account as well. Some auditors in China have already been trained as animal welfare assessors for this purpose. As part of the evaluation of the pilot project, the further implementation of the programme for animal welfare assessments on farms in Inner Mongolia is planned.
Beyond its focus on animal welfare, the standard’s revision also addresses three other pillars: people, management, and the environment. It provides clear guidelines for protecting biodiversity and land through land management, achieving dignified labour conditions for all people involved in cashmere fibre production, and ensuring compliance with responsible business practices, the verification process, and GCS values.
The implementation of The Good Cashmere Standard 2.0 and its criteria will be mandatory as of 2025 and will be monitored through independent verifications at regular intervals.
Collaboration With TextileGenesis, A Lectra Company
Transparency and traceability in cashmere production are core concerns for the Aid by Trade Foundation with regard to the implementation of The Good Cashmere Standard. AbTF thus plays a major role in ensuring that companies and brands can comply with the rising requirements for responsible textile production. Since the very beginning, the standard has required producers to separate verified cashmere from non-verified cashmere. Compliance with these requirements is monitored through audits, and only products that really contain verified cashmere wool may bear the GCS label. In addition, a product
with The Good Cashmere Standard label must contain only verified cashmere.
Until now, the implementation of these requirements for processing cashmere wool has been documented in AbTF’s proprietary tracking system; going forward, GCS-verified cashmere will be traced through TextileGenesis, A Lectra Company. “For fashion brands, guaranteeing the transparency and reliability of their supply chain has become a key issue. By entering into this partnership with The Good Cashmere Standard, our aim is to promote full traceability of responsible cashmere, from the place where the goats are reared to the point of sale," explains Amit Gautam, the founder and CEO of TextileGenesis, A Lectra Company.
Christian Barthel, the head of business development at the Aid by Trade Foundation, adds, “At The Good Cashmere Standard, we place great value on traceability and transparency. We began by investing in a robust system that enables us to trace every order back to the cashmere producer. Now, we are excited to reinforce this commitment by partnering with TextileGenesis to offer both current and future partners the option of working through an established and technologically innovative platform.”
About The Good Cashmere Standard
Through The Good Cashmere Standard (GCS), the Aid by Trade Foundation has been setting the benchmark for the production of sustainable cashmere from Inner Mongolia since 2020. GCS criteria cover the most important aspects of cashmere production. Aiming to protect nature and to improve the welfare of cashmere goats and the living conditions of goat herders, the standard was developed with input from goat herders as well as experts in animal welfare and the industry. There are now some 9,100 farms with a total of 4.3 million goats participating in The Good Cashmere Standard. Around 2,200 tonnes of cashmere wool are currently verified by The Good Cashmere Standard. More than 50 international textile companies and household-name brands—including Bestseller, J.Crew, Galeries Lafayette, H&M, s.Oliver, and The White Company—use the verified cashmere wool for their products.
About the Aid by Trade Foundation
Founded in 2005, the Aid by Trade Foundation (AbTF) is now an internationally renowned non-profit organisation that works throughout the world to promote sustainable raw materials. Its activities make a decisive and measurable contribution to improving the living conditions of people and animals while protecting the environment. AbTF takes a practical approach by creating and maintaining a variety of standards to verify raw materials: Cotton made in Africa (CmiA), Cotton made in Africa Organic (CmiA Organic), the Regenerative Cotton Standard (RCS), and The Good Cashmere Standard (GCS). A global alliance of textile companies and brands purchases the verified raw materials, paying a licensing fee to AbTF’s marketing company, ATAKORA Fördergesellschaft GmbH. AbTF collaborates closely with industry experts and with specialists in animal and nature protection.
About TextileGenesisTM, A Lectra Company
Founded in 2018, TextileGenesis, A Lectra Company, provides a Software as a Service (SaaS) platform that enables fashion brands and sustainable textile manufacturers to ensure a reliable, secure and fully digital mapping of their textiles, from the fiber to the consumer, and thereby guarantee their authenticity and origins. The platform provides traceability for textiles, leather and footwear, employing fiber forwards traceability for sustainable and certified materials and Supply Chain discovery approach to traceability for conventional materials. Its innovative traceability mechanism, which addresses both ends of the textile value chain, as well as its network of partners for material certification, and its technology platform guarantee the exchange and tracking of reliable and secure data throughout a material's life cycle. TextileGenesis platform also identifies and flags supply chain compliance/legal risks across the value chain from tier 1-4 for brands.
Archroma brings Super Systems+ solutions to the global denim community
‘PLANET CONSCIOUS+’ innovations to be showcased at two of the world’s most influential denim fairs: Denim Première Vision Milan and Denimsandjeans Vietnam Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, is bringing its new SUPER SYSTEMS+ concept and key denim innovations to Denim Première Vision Milan on June 5 and 6 and Denimsandjeans Vietnam on June 26 and 27.
From classic blue jeans to fashionforward designs with fresh cuts, colors and finishes, denim remains one of the most popular fabrics worldwide. At the same time, the industry is beginning to question traditional production methods that use considerable water and energy and also have limitations in terms of the selection of chemicals and dyes that are clean and safe.
“Guided by our ‘PLANET CONSCIOUS+’ vision of innovation and partnership, Archroma is committed to leading the change for denim brands and mills worldwide. We consistently challenge the status quo to develop solutions that not only set trends in fashion, but that can be cleaner and more sustainable too,” Umberto De Vita, Market Segment Director for Denim, Archroma Textile Effects, said.
Archroma will demonstrate an array of breakthrough solutions at Denim Première Vision Milan and Denimsandjeans Vietnam, including SUPER SYSTEMS+ for Denim. SUPER SYSTEMS+ are powerful end-to-end systems developed by Archroma to allow brands and mills to make an impact by saving resources, delivering more durable apparel or adopting cleaner chemistries, or by choosing enhanced outcomes in all
three areas at once. The suite encompasses wet processing solutions from sizing to finishing; durable colors and functional effects that add value; and cleaner chemistries that go beyond compliance to anticipate future restrictions.
Trade show visitors will also be able to explore Archroma’s new DENIM HALO, a laser-friendly and easy washable denim, as well as a range of other product innovations, such as DIRESUL® EVOLUTION BLACK, DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 and EarthColors®
DIRESUL® EVOLUTION BLACK is Archroma’s cleanest sulfur black dyestuff. Manufactured using fewer resources, it has an overall impact reduction to 57% during dye synthesis compared to standard Sulfur Black 1 liquid.* Importantly, it also offers mills the opportunity to deliver unique shade and wash-down effects that stand out in the market.
DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 LIQ is an aniline-free** pre-reduced indigo that creates authentic denim look with the same performance and efficiency as conventional indigo dye, but in a way that can reduce the risk of pollution. Furthermore, it is produced in an aniline-
free** process to help enable cleaner denim production.
EarthColors® is a patented Archroma technology that creates highperformance biowaste-based dyes from non-edible food and agricultural waste, leaving the edible part available for consumption. EarthColors® dyes are fully traceable and help reduce the industry’s overall impact on the water footprint. Since they upcycle waste from other industries, they also help contribute to a circular economy.
Meet Archroma denim experts at Denim Première Vision Milan 2024
Held twice a year, in June and November, Denim Première Vision is a celebration of denim trends, markets and culture. The June 2024 event will present the latest innovations and AutumnWinter 2025-2026 collections from leading manufacturers and suppliers.
Meet Archroma denim experts at Denimsandjeans Vietnam 2024
Now in its sixth year, Denimsandjeans Vietnam attracts large denim producers from Vietnam and other leading textile manufacturing hubs. The show is organized by Denimsandjeans.com, a website dedicated to the global denim industry since 2007.
Tofflon Itema opens the doors of its new headquarters for a grand opening event
Nibbia, San Pietro Mosezzo (NO), Italy – Itema, leading global provider of advanced weaving solutions, and Tofflon Science and Technology Group Co. Ltd., Asiatic giant company in the pharmaceutical industry, organized a Grand Opening Ceremony on May 16th, 2024, to inaugurate Tofflonit, the new company dedicated to the production of industrial lyophilizers for the biopharmaceutic sector that operates with the name of Tofflon Itema Srl.
In the new premises of Nibbia, in the municipality of San Pietro Mosezzo in the province of Novara, the manufacturing plant has been working since October and features high levels of quality and innovation and, on May 16th, the Opening Ceremony took place here with the participation of more than 100 representatives of biopharmaceutical companies from all over Europe.
The inauguration ceremony was in fact welcomed with interest and great participation by companies in the sector from 13 different countries, namely Italy, Finland, France, Greece, Germany, Latvia, Morocco, Holland, Serbia, Slovakia,
Spain, Switzerland, and Hungary, who attended an event where the usual presentations were followed by a detailed technical tour of a complete freeze-drying system. The ceremony started with the usual message of the authorities, here represented by the Mayor of San Pietro Mosezzo, Giuseppe Brognoli, who underlined the importance of new industrial undertakings for the growth of the territory, from the point of view both of technology and employment.
The mayor was then followed by Anthony Zheng, CEO of Tofflon Group,
who thanked Itema for its valuable contribution in the development of the new headquarters of the Group in Italy and, during the year of the 31st anniversary of Tofflon he stated “As one of the founders, I am proud of our journey, full of numerous challenges and many achievements. Now, during the year of our 31st anniversary, we have reached a new milestone establishing the first Tofflon manufacturing plant in Europe, which testifies our commitment to offer even more efficient and convenient services to our customers in
Europe and America. On the journey ahead, we look forward to collaborating closely with companies, universities and research institutes in Novara, Italy and across Europe.”
Ugo Ghilardi, CEO of Itema Group, then took the stage and reviewed the last three years of collaboration between Itema and Tofflon which brought to life the new production site which was designed and industrialized according to the most modern principles of lean manufacturing by Itemalab, Itema’s engineering company. Ghilardi then underlined how “quality is the hallmark of this new company. Tofflon Itema was created to guarantee its customers quality in products, quality in innovations, quality in service and quality in relationships. Ours is a promise of quality to the market.
During the event, a key testimony has come from a special guest, Margherita Verga, Owner of Sacco System Group, a company of Cadorago, in the province of Como, that since 1934 has been offering a wide range of innovative products, including starter cultures for food fermentation (in particular dairy products) and nutritional supplements (probiotic
cultures), as well as food improvement tools. Margherita Verga has talked about her company’s experience with Tofflon, which has been supplying machinery to the Sacco Group for more than 10 years, underlying the quality and the timeliness of the services offered.
In closing, the history of the company’s foundation and its objectives were summarized by Ted Dai, General Manager of Tofflon Itema. The technical tour dedicated to discovering a complete freeze-drying line was preceded by an accurate technical presentation.
The event concluded with the signing of a sale contract between Tofflon Itema and the Slovakian company HelgeHeim.
Tofflon Science and Technology Group Co. Ltd.
Tofflon was founded in Shanghai in 1993. It is a comprehensive pharmaceutical equipment supplier to provide process support, core equipment, integrated system and pharma engineering for the pharma and biotech industry in the world. Tofflon focuses on studying drug manufacturing science and process equipment manufacturing science to design and build “Advanced Drug
Manufacturing Platform” from small molecule to large molecule and cell and gene therapy applications. Tofflon has established joint ventures and technology collaborations with global partners from USA, Europe and Japan.
Furthermore, Tofflon has built six modern pharmaceutical equipment manufacturing bases with global competitiveness. In the following years, Tofflon will dedicate itself to grow from “China Tofflon to Global Tofflon”, from “Equipment Supplier to Solution Provider” to professionally support global pharma and biotech industry continuous innovations and commercialization to contribute to the maximum benefits and welfare of its served society, customers, stockholders, employees and their families.
Itema Group
Itema is an Italian multinational leading provider of advanced weaving solutions, including weaving machines, spare parts and integrated services. The Company is the only manufacturer in the world to provide the top three weft insertion technologies: rapier, airjet and projectile, with an ample product portfolio and a steadfast commitment to continuous innovation and technological advancement of our weaving machines.
Itema owns the majority stake of Lamiflex, leading supplier of technical composite products and Schoch, leading producer of weaving accessories.
Sixty percent of Itema is held by Gianni Radici’s heirs: the siblings Angelo, Maurizio, Paolo, Maria Grazia and Bruna Radici. The remaining part is held by Arizzi and Torri families.
B.I.G. Yarns at Clerkenwell Design Week: merging sustainable color and design to create the spaces of the future
B.I.G. Yarns hit Clerkenwell Design Week 2024 with a splash, showcasing sustainable craftmanship that merges color and design with sustainable yarn materials to redefine the spaces of the future.
As one of the most important design hubs in the world, Clerkenwell Design Week is a perfect showcase for B.I.G. Yarns’ future yarns that help architects, designers and project managers create sustainable spaces with soft, beautiful and colorful materials.
Sustainable Yarns for Spaces of the Future
Future yarns include those produced with renewable sources, recycled content yarn and low-impact PA6 carpet yarn. B.I.G. Yarns is now a one-stop-shop for Solution Dyed BCF PA6 nylon, and the Eqo-range of PA6 yarns – the sustainably
focused EqoBalance, EqoCycle and EqoYarn.
“This portfolio demonstrates our commitment to reducing climate impact across the carpet pile industry supply chain, and strategically positions the company to help carpet manufacturers meet sustainability targets,” said Glenn Hyzak, Global Sales Director Yarns. “At the same time, we believe that sustainability shouldn’t stand in the way of color freedom which is why our current range of eco-friendly yarn solutions offers designers the ability to choose any imaginable color with a lower impact on the environment.”
Unlimited Colors Without the Environmental Impact
At Clerkenwell, B.I.G. Yarns highlighted its Sustainable Yarns platform,
a guide for responsible manufacturing professionals and designers in the search for sustainable yarns for commercial, residential, and automotive carpet solutions. Also on display was its Color Studio, where visitors found a vibrant explosion of color with endless and sustainable design options.
“Design, color and sustainability are the building blocks that will create future spaces designed for diverse uses and we believe carpet yarns fit perfectly in the shift from ‘form follows function’ towards ‘form follows feeling’ to meet people’s sensory needs.
Initiatives like B.I.G. Yarns’ Catch the Color even enable designers to select their own customized color designs and combinations with sustainable solutiondyed nylon,” said Belinda Ottevaere, B.I.G. Yarns Key Account Manager.
Sourcery and Rizq Joins Forces for regenerative cotton farming in Pakistan
Sourcery announced today its partnership with Rizq, a social enterprise in Pakistan that is focused on food security and sustainable futures for smallholder farmers. Together, they will onboard approximately 500 cotton farmers into Sourcery's Direct-toGrower™ Programme. This partnership will allow Sourcery to pilot its Impact and Assurance Programme in Pakistan, which will empower Rizq farmers to earn additional income by collecting and selling primary data through the Sourcery Connect App.
Rizq will be an Agronomic Partner in the first cotton season and will later establish a for-profit entity to be enrolled in the Direct-to-Grower™ Programme as an official Grower Partner. This move will help Sourcery collect baseline farmer data and develop solutions to challenges such as limited access to smartphones on the ground. Sourcery will also provide training for regenerative practices and data collection and establish monitoring processes for Rizq staff. By doing so, Rizq will have a significant impact on sustainable farming practices and the well-being of farmers across Pakistan.
"Through our partnership with Sourcery, we are thrilled to transform Pakistan's agriculture landscape by ensuring premium prices for smallholder farmers committed to sustainability. Sourcery's expertise in fostering transparent, and fair transactions aligns seamlessly with Rizq's strength in cultivating a robust network of smallholder farmers. This data-driven collaboration circles back, creating enhanced livelihood opportunities for millions of small farmers, ensuring equitable value chains," said Qasim Javaid, CEO and Co-Founder of Rizq.
This partnership was initiated through the donations Sourcery had collected for the devastating floods in Pakistan in 2022. Sourcery sought a trusted partner that met the transparency, integrity and impact requirements to invest in and establish a regenerative cotton program in Pakistan that would support growers in rebuilding and sustaining their livelihoods in this climate-changing world. Therefore, Sourcery reallocated the funds to the Rizq project originally intended for another organisation that could not meet the requirements to support Pakistani cotton farmers in a meaningful way. These donations covered the enrollment fees for 500 farmers into the Direct-to-Grower™ Programme.
“Rizq is following a progressive vision and is aligned with our values as they are dedicated to creating for-profit social enterprises which will create commercial value so that farmers can sustain themselves through their agriculture.”, said Imran Asghar, Managing Director South Asia and Co-Founder of Sourcery. “We believe that this partnership holds great potential for both our organisations and the farming communities in Pakistan. Together, we can make a significant impact on sustainable farming practices and the future of farmers.”
The Impact and Assurance Programme enables unmatched transparency, authenticity, and trust using regional-specific verified primary data that is collected for each individual grower enrolled in Sourcery’s Direct-toGrower™ Programme. The Sourcery Connect app, which is the digital nexus of the Programme, is thereby free to all growers, everywhere. Growers can demonstrate their commercial and environmental excellence by collecting and licensing primary data that is thirdparty verified to Sourcery Partners and third-party entities and receive financial compensation for sharing their data.
Archroma, G-Star RAW and Advance Denim promote cleaner denim production
With the aim to help the denim industry reduce the environmental impact of its wastewater and move towards circularity, three leaders from across the denim supply chain have renewed their joint commitment to the production of aniline-free denim apparel based on Archroma’s DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30.
Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, has been working with innovative Dutch denim brand G-Star RAW and sustainable denim leader Advance Denim since 2019.
Their joint aim is to produce highquality denim in authentic blue shades without the aniline impurity carried through from the synthesis of standard synthetic indigo. In traditional denim production, this aniline remains bound
with the indigo pigment on the fabric; the remaining aniline is discharged during the dyeing and washing process. This can be a problem because aniline is toxic to aquatic life and two-thirds of aniline waste currently ends up in wastewater discharge where it could potentially pollute waterways and the ocean.
Archroma developed DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 to answer this key challenge. A 30% pre-reduced indigo solution, DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 makes it possible to produce indigo-dyed denim without aniline impurities throughout the process.
Easy to use with automated dosing, DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 significantly reduces the water needed for preparation, washing and wastewater treatment
compared to indigo grains. It also reduces hazardous chemical consumption while allowing high reproducibility and creating the authentic and iconic deep indigo shades traditionally associated with denim.
“If we remove aniline from the indigo dyes, we also remove it from the denim production process and its wastewater, and thus eliminate the risk of pollution. Denim that is free of aniline can also be more efficiently and sustainability recycled and reused, making circularity a more viable option,” Umberto De Vita, Market Segment Director for Denim, Archroma Textile Effects, said. “We are delighted to see trendsetters like G-Star RAW ramping up aniline-free production with DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30, proving that sustainability is achievable
with improved productivity and authentic deep indigo shades.”
“To be here as the denim brand in the future, G-Star RAW challenges industry standards,” Rebecka Sancho, G-Star RAW said. “We push boundaries in our journey to further close the loop by using sustainable materials, clean chemistry and by designing for durability and reuse. DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 helps us to minimize pollution and improve the environmental impact of our products without compromising on iconic indigo colors.”
G-Star RAW is working towards making 20% of its entire collection from Cradle to Cradle Certified® fabrics by 2025. Its partnership with Archroma and Advance Denim contributes to this goal,
since the aniline-free DENISOL® holds a Gold Level Material Health Certificate from the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute. DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 is also compliant with other major eco-standards and the requirements of leading retailers and brands.
“As a company that is dedicated to the production of denim that is both authentic and sustainable, Advance Denim is proud to work with industry innovators like Archroma and G-Star RAW,” Amy Wang, Managing Director, Advance Denim, said. “We were the first mill in China to launch an aniline-free collection with Archroma and our new plant in the resort town of Nha Trang in Vietnam is a 100% aniline-free indigo factory with DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 by Archroma.”
Dyes and Chemicals
Johan Van den Heede, Director – Europe Marketing, Advance Denim, added, “We are honored to stand alongside Archroma and G-Star RAW to pioneer cleaner denim production methods that reflect our unwavering commitment to sustainability and innovation.”
Advance Denim’s aniline-free indigo collection offers various rich authentic indigo shades in different yarn characters and sustainable fiber compositions with multiple innovative constructions.
Advance Denim, G-Star RAW and Archroma have previously collaborated to launch collections based on Archroma’s EarthColors® technology, which upcycles plant waste from the herbal industry to create sustainable colorways.
Exciting prospects for composites
Interview with Lovis Kneisel, CEO of FUSE, about an alpine ski made from hemp-based composites
FUSE is one of the main players in a current project to develop an alpine ski with an overall more sustainable and ecological production process than before. Specifically, the CO2 footprint is to be significantly reduced. To achieve this, the value chain is to be converted to a circular economy and production is to be switched to processing the renewable raw material hemp in composite production. FUSE is working together with KARL MAYER Technische Textilien on the latter task.
Ulrike Schlenker from Corporate Communication team at the KARL MAYER GROUP spoke to Lovis Kneisel, Managing Director of FUSE GmbH, about the background and expectations surrounding the project.
Why did you choose to build an alpine ski for the joint project?
LK: We had already been working on the development of adapted semifinished products for biocomposite products in various market sectors for some time before the start of the project. Alpine sports is an industry that is fundamentally very open to innovations in the field of sustainability and, due to the many small players, provides rapid feedback on the suitability of new material systems and process approaches. Alpine skiing as such is an enormously exciting product, as the focus here is very much on performance. In close cooperation with SPURart in particular, our team has succeeded in substituting 100% of the glass fiber used and still developing an extremely highperformance ski. Even the SPURart pros are impressed by this innovation both on and off the slope.
Flax fibers are already being processed in the composites sector. What fascinates you about hemp? Are there any concrete figures on the benefits of this natural fiber in terms of environmental impact?
LK: Flax and hemp are largely related in terms of their performance in composite materials. The advantage of
lies in its ecology, but also in its economy. Unlike flax, hemp can be grown completely without chemical pesticides and is also available in good quality outside Belgium and France. As we consistently rely on secondary fibersthe so-called value fibers - for our semifinished products, we are not in the usual procurement competition with the clothing industry for flax long fibers and can therefore pass on a very attractive cost structure to our customers.
What are the main advantages of using natural fiber tapes compared to natural fiber yarns in terms of the process chain and impregnation behavior?
LK: The tapes are produced directly from the fiber as a flat structure, which saves the entire spinning process and also parts of the subsequent surface formation. The advantage of this is an essentially streamlined process.
What impact do you expect the project to have? What potential is there for the composites industry in other market segments? In your opinion, what other applications are possible apart from sports and automotive?
LK: Natural fiber composites can be used in many different areas of application. The focus is not only on mobility or sports applications. They also offer advantages when used in loadbearing components in the building and construction sector or in the logistics
sector. We are currently working together with a Swiss start-up to develop a circular Euro pallet.
How can natural fiber-based composites be paved the way for widespread applications? What challenges are there?
LK: The industry's interest in biobased materials is very high and growing rapidly in light of the urgent need to decarbonize the industry. Biogenic raw materials in general, and fibers in particular due to their high performance requirements, are growth-dependent in terms of their qualitative and quantitative character. The main challenges are therefore always the reliable provision of high-quality and homogeneous materials and the continuous reduction of supply costs for industrial semi-finished products.
Let's talk about the cooperation with KARL MAYER Technische Textilien. How long have you been working with this partner in the composites industry and what do you value about them?
LK: The cooperation with KARL MAYER developed in the course of initial preliminary investigations for the HempSki project described above and has been steadily expanded since then. We value the company for its innovative spirit and its constant willingness to try out new things.
Thank you very much for this interesting interview
hemp over flax
Jakob Müller Group, Frick: CEO Andreas Conzelmann celebrates 100 days in office
Andreas Conzelmann has taken over the management of the Jakob Müller Group (JMG) since the beginning of the year and is focusing on innovation and customer orientation. Under his leadership, key positions have been strengthened and the opening of an "Innovation Lab" in Frick is being planned. The JMG is part of Jakob Müller Holding AG (JMH). The group of companies relies on digital investments and global competencies to secure its leading position in the industry.
Andreas Conzelmann took over the leadership of the Jakob Müller Group (JMG) on January 1st. He quickly recognized the challenges and opportunities for JMG in a demanding global economic situation. JMG plays a leading role in the global textile machinery industry and is holding its own in the market - despite the high competitive pressure, the great rivals and its Swiss production site. The requirements have changed significantly in the past 10 years and the economic conditions are also currently very challenging. "We are facing these challenges and investing. There are positive signals from the market that make us optimistic," explains Conzelmann.
Focus
on customer orientation, innovation and a strong corporate culture
In recent months, the management team and other key positions have been expanded to strengthen management. "Our focus is on using the competencies within the group worldwide and on innovations that support our customers," explains Conzelmann. "The customer is at the center and we will focus even more on this in the future." As an example, he introduces the planned "Innovation Lab" in Frick, which will open this year. In "LAB1887", new solutions are developed on Müller machines together with customers and technologies are combined. "Customers have the opportunity to try out initial ideas with us in Frick in a realistic environment and to test solutions," says Conzelmann. In addition to "LAB1887", innovation projects have been launched in which new technologies and applications for the machines are developed together with universities, partners and customers.
After 100 days in office, Andreas Conzelmann summarizes two other important development focuses for the future of the Jakob Müller Group, in addition to customer orientation. The team is seen as the decisive factor in which JMG will continue to rely and
invest in the future. "Despite advancing digitalization - the best ideas still come from the employees," emphasizes Conzelmann. Together with his management, he also wants to make even better use of the global presence in the international environment, for example by designing the supply chain more efficiently.
Commitment to the location and the will to innovate
The Jakob Müller Group is part of the Jakob Müller Holding, which also includes Benninger AG and List Technology AG. According to owner Stephan Bühler, the time is currently being used intensively to "rethink" the strategy, which will take JMG a big step forward in terms of competitiveness. Bühler sees this as an important part of an investment in the future: "We are continuing to expand our core business in industry and supporting our companies so that they grow healthily and profitably. And we are investing heavily in digital solutions." The upcoming Innovation Lab "LAB1887" in Frick is also an example of the commitment to position and further develop the Jakob Müller Group at the forefront of the textile machinery industry, says Bühler.
Fairs and Exhibitions
Patricia Urquiola x Heimtextil: immersive installation enables cohesive design experience in 2025
Heimtextil and Patricia Urquiola, together, provided a glimpse into the highly anticipated design installation to be realized at Heimtextil 2025, reinforcing the special collaboration with the celebrated Spanish architect and designer. The partnership further enhances Heimtextil's design expertise in the field of home and contract textiles. The immersive interior design installation focuses on ready-made textiles, with a strong emphasis on hospitality and design.
Heimtextil, the foremost global trade fair for home and contract textiles, is pleased to unveil new details on its collaboration with design luminary Patricia Urquiola during Milan Design Week. This partnership signifies a convergence of vision, innovation, and sustainability, setting the stage for a meaningful experience in textile design to be showcased at Heimtextil 2025 in Frankfurt.
Patricia Urquiola, the creative force behind Studio Urquiola, shares Heimtextil's steadfast commitment to pushing boundaries and reducing complexity. Both brands approach transformations and sustainability holistically, enabling change and shaping the future of interior design concepts in hospitality, retail, and beyond.
"The collaboration with Studio Urquiola further elevates Heimtextil’s strong design expertise," states Olaf Schmidt, Vice President Textiles & Textile Technologies, Messe Frankfurt Exhibition GmbH. "Urquiola's visionary approach perfectly complements our mission to inspire, convey knowledge, and drive the business viability of the global textiles industry forward."
Experience Design at Heimtextil 2025
At Heimtextil 2025, attendees can expect to immerse themselves in a curated interior design installation by
Patricia Urquiola, focusing on readymade textiles emphasizing hospitality and design. Aptly named "Among-us”, the new showcase places human experience at its core.
The installation enables a cohesive design experience for buyers and exhibitors alike. Heimtextil’s expertise in Interior.Architecture.Hospitality with the unrivalled design capability of Patricia Urquiola provide a seamless experience, bridging hospitality design concepts as well as global suppliers of functional contract textiles and retailers. This offers further opportunities to showcase upskilling design for attendees, reinforcing Heimtextil's role as a go-to platform for designers, exhibitors,
architects, retailers, and hospitality decision-makers seeking to redefine textile design.
“Working with Heimtextil, we continue research on textiles that the Studio has been doing for years, developing textiles as products and their application in product design, interiors, and architecture in a large spectrum of scales. “Among-us” will be an installation that will propose our vision and open a larger conversation inside and outside the industry, including topics such as sustainability in materials, conviviality, and the perception between virtual and reality,” says Patricia Urquiola.
A Shared Goal for Sustainable Design
Moreover, collaborating with Patricia Urquiola advances discourse on sustainability, particularly in the realm of regenerative materials. By showcasing tangible examples of sustainable practices and fostering innovation, Heimtextil and Studio Urquiola aim to encourage the adoption of sustainable practices throughout the textile industry.
Heimtextil x Studio Urquiola 2025 promises to be an unmissable event for anyone passionate about textiles, design, and sustainability.
Olaf Schmidt, Vice President Textiles & Textile Technologies, Messe Frankfurt.
Online visitor registration for ITMA ASIA + CITME 2024 opens
ITMA ASIA + CITME 2024, Asia's leading business platform for textile machinery, can register their visit online to take advantage of early bird rates. The combined exhibition will be held from 14 to 18 October 2024 at the National Exhibition and Convention Centre, Shanghai, China.
Visitors who pre-register on the combined show websites (itmaasia.com and citme.com) by 13 October will enjoy early bird rates which are at a 40% discount. The early-bird rates are US$9 (RMB 60) for a five-day badge and US$5 (RMB 30) for a one-day badge. Standard onsite rates are RMB 100 for a five-day badge and RMB 50 for a one-day badge.
The combined show ownersCEMATEX and the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT (CCPIT-Tex), China Textile Machinery Association (CTMA) and China Exhibition Centre Group
Corporation (CIEC) are pleased with the positive response received for space application. Compared to the previous edition, the scale of the exhibition is expected to be bigger.
To-date, about 1,700 leading textile machinery manufacturers have applied for space. Among them are CHTC, Cixing, Fadis, Groz-Beckert, Itema, Karl Mayer, Memminger-Iro, Murata, Picanol, Rifa, Saurer, Savio, Shima Seiki, SPGPrints, Staubli, Tsudakoma, Truetzschler, Toyota, Vandewiele and Yoantion.
Mr Ernesto Maurer, President of CEMATEX said: “The textile industry is undergoing rapid transformation due to factors such as digitalisation and sustainability. Automated systems are driving efficiency across fibre processing, yarn production, weaving, dyeing and finishing. Textile machinery manufacturers are excited to promote
these technologies at the upcoming ITMA ASIA + CITME exhibition.”
Mr Gu Ping, President of China Textile Machinery Association concurred: “The textile industry is witnessing rapid changes driven by the progress of the Internet and AI technological advancements, and textile processing technologies are also developing rapidly. ITMA ASIA + CITME 2024 will showcase the latest development trends of the global textile machinery sector. We warmly invite buyers to visit the exhibition to source the highest quality and efficient technologies.”
Featuring 18 product chapters of the textile-making manufacturing chain, ITMA ASIA + CITME 2024 will showcase a comprehensive range of machinery, from spinning, weaving, knitting, nonwoven, printing and inks, dyeing and finishing, to garment making, recycling, testing and packaging.
The previous edition - ITMA ASIA + CITME 2022 – was successfully staged, grossing over 160,000 square metres of the exhibition venue. It featured more than 1,500 exhibitors from 23 countries and attracted visitorship of 100,000 from 105 countries and regions.
ITMA ASIA + CITME is organised by Beijing Textile Machinery International Exhibition Co., Ltd and co-organised by ITMA Services. Japan Textile Machinery Association is a special partner of the combined show.
Campos, leading Spanish textile producer starts its own finishing with Brückner stenter frames
The Campos company in northern Spain is a leading European textile manufacturer that has special-ized mainly in mattress fabrics and stretchable knitted fabrics since it was founded in 1997 and is a global pioneer in "Damask stretch". Campos combines technical know-how with innovation and crea-tivity in textile design. The result is products of outstanding quality that meet even the most demand-ing requirements and the highest expectations of customers. The company is certified according to OEKO-TEX 100®, GRS® and ISO 9001 and supplies customers all over the world with high-quality fabrics for mattresses, upholstered furniture, and home textiles. A wide range of natural and synthetic yarns are processed for this purpose - tailored to the respective needs of the customers.
In 2020, the Spanish manufacturer decided to finish all the textiles it produces itself. What applied to the circular knitting machines also became the top priority for the finishing systems: only the best manufacturers were considered. A visit to Brückner in Germany to gain an understanding of the pro-duction of the lines as well as the technology convinced Campos of the professionalism of the German market leader in the field of dry finishing. Therefore, in 2023 Campos bought a Brückner
POWER-FRAME stenter frame with vertical transport chain for the production plant in the Spanish province of Valencia.
The countered heating and ventilation elements in the Brückner POWER-FRAME stenter ensure a completely uniform air impingement across the entire width of the fabric. The POWER-FRAME impresses with the highest possible drying performance and a process control system tailored to the fab-ric quality thanks to the technically mature and proven split-flow ventilation system and low specific energy consumption. An extremely robust and low-maintenance chain ensure a long service life and low wear.
The decisive factor for Campos was not only the quality of the Brückner machines, but also Brückner's company philosophy. Both companies are family-run in the second generation and attach great importance to treating employees and the environment with respect and appreciation.
From left to right: Dirk Städter (Brückner), Enrique Campos (owner), Vicente Campos (owner), Regina Brückner (owner), Fernando Campos (owner), Jorge FerrerDalmau (Brückner Agent)
From left to right: Manuel Romero Delgado (Brückner), Fernando Campos (owner), Dirk Städter (Brückner), Rudi Hollands (Brückner), Alfons Serano (Consultant Prosultex)
Trützschler service goes digital
Everybody has felt the pain of digital tech that creates more problems than solutions – but our new service will make sure that won’t happen to you. Digital Start-Up is a special service that helps our customers get maximum value from Trützschler’s digital solutions. From personalized configurations through to analyzing data and optimizing production processes in real time, you can rely on Digital Start-Up to support your yarn production processes.
Entering the virtual space
Every day, technical service experts from Trützschler visit customers around the globe. We travel to Brazil, India, Türkiye, the USA… and now we’re adding another location to the list: The virtual space. Our Trützschler Services team works with you to make sure you feel the full benefit of our digital solutions for yarn production.
Digital Start-up: A new and exclusive service
Now, all customers that commission a new installation can also access our new service: Digital Start-Up. This comprehensive onboarding program generates quick wins from Day One and will help you achieve top levels of performance for many years. It offers: Guidedonboarding for our all-in-one platform My Trützschler including My Mill, Training, Shop and much more.
On-site training for all machines and services.
Digital audits that combine online and on-site guidance, training and troubleshooting.
During digital audits, technical experts from Trützschler guide and train each customer’s team based on specific real-time data from our mill monitoring system My Mill. By working closely in this way, you can get your mill to 100 % performance faster than ever, while also learning how to finetune your unique processes on your own. Online support is always available to help you solve issues quickly and achieve stable yarn quality.
With you everywhere
The My Trützschler platform offers the best way to keep track of all digital
solutions. It provides seamless access to your digital Trützschler world, with important insights from digital services including My Mill, Training, Shop and My Wires. The My Identity tool ensures safe access on any device, anywhere – and it saves you time with single sign-on authentication. The digital Trützschler world is growing all the time. Find out about the latest apps and services on My Trützschler.
Stay up-to-date, anywhere and all the time.
Order parts and components online quickly and easily (My Shop).
Upskill your employees with online training activities (My Training). Expert know-how to improve the performance of your Mill (My Mill).
Altor Acquires Remaining Assets of Renewcell, Ushering in a New Era as Circulose®
Renewcell, a leader in cotton textile recycling, is pleased to announce that its remaining assets have been acquired by Altor, a respected investment firm based in Sweden. This acquisition marks a new chapter for Renewcell, now renamed Circulose.
With Altor's ownership, there is secure financing for the future of Circulose, ensuring that the company’s pioneering cotton recycling technology continues to thrive on a global scale.
The technology of recycling cotton to make a dissolving pulp for MMCF producers, such as viscose, has been a cornerstone of the company’s operations.
CIRCULOSE® pulp, the innovative solution for textile-to-textile circularity, will remain at the forefront to create a sustainable future for the fashion and textile industry. This commitment to innovation and sustainability is further strengthened by Altor's investment, which provides the resources and network needed to scale Circulose’s impact and reach.
The current inventory of CIRCULOSE® pulp and fiber is ready to meet market demands, supported by our dedicated CIRCULOSE® Supplier Network (CSN) partners who continue to provide high-quality materials. This ensures that the market can confidently move forward
with the assurance of an uninterrupted supply chain.
“We extend our deepest gratitude to our customers, partners, and stakeholders for their unwavering support and collaboration during this journey,” remarks Magnus Lundmark, Chief Executive Officer at Circulose.
“Together, we will continue to drive positive change, leveraging Altor's expertise and resources to enhance our capabilities and secure a confident future for Circulose and the broader textile community.”
Circulose is committed to maintaining the highest standards of quality and reliability through the transition into this exciting new phase of building a resilient, innovative, and circular future for the textile industry.
For further information, please contact iTextiles
Email: info@itextiles.com.pk
Website: www.itextiles.com.pk.
U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol Growers Can Now Apply for the Level 2 Climate Smart Cotton Program
The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol announced that U.S. cotton growers can now enroll in Climate Smart Cotton Program Level 2. This program, led by the Trust Protocol, gives Level 1 growers the opportunity to receive additional financial support for implementing Climate Smart Practice Changes into their operations.
With implementation of Climate Smart Practice Changes, growers can be eligible to receive up to $45 per acre for three years.
Qualify for $35/acre for three years if you plant any cover crop, single or mixed species for the first time in the past three years.
Qualify for $5/acre if you begin to manage a field with no-till or strip-till farming practices for the first time.
Qualify for $5/acre if you add your nutrient management plan information in addition to implementing a new cover crop or tillage practice.
“Participating in Level 2 of the Climate Smart Cotton Program gives growers the opportunity to de-risk the implementation and adoption of Climate Smart Agriculture practices,” said Charles “Chaz” Holt, U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol Director of Field Programs. “Additional practice options were also added this year increasing the number of growers eligible to participate in the level.”
To qualify for Level 2, growers must meet Level 1 requirements, adopt a new Climate Smart Agriculture practice, verify practice adoption, participate in soil health target setting, and quantify greenhouse gas emissions on all practice change acres.
Grower Enrollment Specialists are also available to help every step of the way. Email info@trustuscotton.orgto be connected with the representative for your region.
About the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol
The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol is the voluntary sustainability program for U.S. cotton growers and traceability platform for all U.S. Cotton. It is the only system that provides quantifiable, verifiable goals and measurement and drives continuous improvement in six key sustainability metrics – land use, soil carbon, water management, soil loss, greenhouse gas emissions, and energy efficiency. It is also the world’s first sustainable cotton fiber program to offer article-level supply chain transparency to all members.
The Trust Protocol is also proud to lead the U.S. Climate Smart Cotton Program, a 5-year, collaborative initiative that presents a transformative opportunity for cotton growers to enhance their profitability, operations, and environmental stewardship, all while contributing to the long-term viability of the U.S. cotton industry.
Uster presents FiberQ and RSO 3D to Reduce waste and boost profits in spinning
Spinners seeking profitable investments for sustainable mill operations would do well to check out Uster FiberQ and RSO 3D. Both these systems offer attractive ROI. They also help spinners control the most expensive stages in the mill process, cutting waste and boosting profits.
Field tests show that comprehensive raw material management can save 0.5% to 2% of waste. Every spinner wants maximum profitability from yarn production, so this evidence should be examined seriously. For example, if barré faults and quality consistency are major headaches, spinners are recommended to read on.
Manage the big cost factor
Raw material accounts for 65% to 75% of the production costs for cotton yarn. Saving even a single percentage of waste here can be significant: a cost reduction of USD 255,000 (€ 239,000) per year, is typically achieved for a mill with 50,000 spindles, based on Ne 30 yarn with a price of 1.8 USD per kilogram of cotton. This savings potential can be tapped with Uster FiberQ – the complete solution for raw material utilization –supporting spinners’ daily processes, quality consistency, profitability and further growth.
Optimum sourcing and use of raw material needs to take account of inventory levels, required yarn quality, and cotton parameters. FiberQ software simplifies the process and integrated Uster Application Intelligence cuts through the complexity, unlocking maximum potential.
Uster FiberQ works with powerful software, analyzing fiber data from available inventories and creating consistent and reliable laydowns for optimum quality and performance. The basis is reliable raw material data, measured by Uster HVI1000. With FiberQ, the Uster fiber classification and analysis system is accessible through a subscription model.
Think Quality next level
FiberQ has three elements. It combines data-enabled software, cuttingedge hardware and textile expertise. So the global know-how and experience of Uster experts opens new perspectives for quality and profitability. Textile expertise brings all the capabilities of equipment, data and software tools into the mill context. Uster textile experts work with the mill’s own personnel to train them and help shorten the road from testing to real results.
The FiberQ quality promise is already proven in practice. Spinners report significant quality improvements. For example, no barré faults occurred after the FiberQ solution was installed. The overall IPI quality improvements showed a level of >25% and greater consistency was observed.
Potential in the most cost-intensive process
Many Uster customers are convinced that investing in quality equates to increasing profitability. Uster RSO 3D is another example of a secure investment in the mill’s future. It’s an intelligent combination of Uster Sentinel ring spinning optimization system, Uster Quantum 4.0 yarn clearers and a linked winding machine with spindle identification. It adds up to a unique
preventive quality control for textile mills. These three dimensions of quality measurement in one system achieve the ultimate goals of process optimization and traceability.
Individual data for each spindle enables quality mapping throughout the ring spinning machine, and any poor quality production is indicated right there. Outlier cops are ejected through direct machine intervention, before winding. This significantly reduces winder stops and clearer cuts. The system also guides operators to the exact position where an issue is identified, enabling fast action for minimum losses – and maximum profitability.
Typically Uster
Spinners know they need to adopt innovative techniques and technologies to meet business challenges and ensure long-term sustainability and profits. Previously, quality management has been largely based on the experience of mill personnel, with available tools at the level of Excel files. This resulted in low utilization of data, because of the complicated and time-consuming processes – which even then could not offer best results.
Data-enabled software is the key to progress and success. Uster offers reliable measuring systems and powerful software, analyzing data from different sources for optimum yarn quality and performance, every day.
Pakistan’s Role in the Global Denim Market
by Nadeem Mazhar, Managing Editor, Pakistan Textile Journal.
Pakistan has become a Denim Hub in the region in less than a decade and is considered as one of the leading suppliers of quality denim fabric to the world's known brands for the garments. The denim industry is contributing substantially towards exports and creating job in the denim sector. At present, Pakistan makes it to the top three denim manufacturers in Asia.
The global market value of denim fabric was US$ 27.1 billion in 2022 and is expected to increase to US$95 billion by 2030. Denim or blue jeans are by far the most valuable product in the denim industry, though there has been an increase in value for every type of denim clothing item.
Western wear, a style of clothing originating from the 19th century American old west region, uses a large amount of denim. As such, the market value of western wear was also projected to increase through 2024, to reach a value of US$ 99 billion. At present, the major manufacturers countries of denim fabric are concentrated in China, India and Pakistan.
The major driving factor of global denim jeans markets are rising disposable income of the individuals, surging ecommerce industry and increasing preference for wearing denim jeans.
Manufacturers are adopting the leading fibre technology that has enabled them to offer denim jeans products for at leisure and activewear besides the workwear and casual wear. The major restraining factor of global denim jeans markets are changes in consumer lifestyle & preference and the introduction of yoga pants and other active wear.
The denim jeans are a specific type of trousers which are made of denim or dungaree cloth. The denim jeans are one of the most significant parts of the clothing and apparel industry.
Increasing demand for denim jeans products is further expected to impact the global market growth of denim jeans positively.
Denim is now one of the key apparel sectors and the driving force behind the apparel exports of the country. The United States were the major denim producer throughout the years, but now with the emergence of the countries like China, India, Pakistan and Bangladesh, it is evident that denim is not an American product anymore.
Pakistan’s Role
Pakistan has become denim hub in the region in less than a decade and is considered one of the leading suppliers of quality denim fabric to the world's known brands for the garments.
Table 1: Export of Cotton Woven Denim Fabrics
Source: Pakistan Bureau of Statistics
Denim fabric has been developed and over the last few years; there is rapid growth and expansion in its use and production capacity in Pakistan. There are about 40 major players in the denim industry of Pakistan. Some of them, like Artistic Fabric Mills, Pak Denim Limited, Al-Ameen Denim Mills Limited, S.M Denim Mills Ltd, Denim International, Classic Denim, Rajby Industries, Soorty, etc. are producing more than 50 million square metres of finished denim fabrics monthly.
Supply of denim fabric from Pakistan is a specialised textile product with its diversified increasing use in jeans, fancy and fashion apparel, curtain, bed sheets, canvas, uniforms, fire-resistant apparels for all seasons and all ages.
Export of cotton denim fabrics from Pakistan decreased from 102 million square metres in 2021-22 to 62 million square metres in 2022-23 thus showing a steep decline of 39.32%. However due to the continuation of weaking of Pakistani Rupee against US dollar, the total value of export showed almost no difference, Table 1.
Bangladesh, Turkiye, Egypt, Sri Lanka and Italy are the major markets for denim fabrics exports from Pakistan. With about 30 billion sq. meters of cotton denim fabric being exported to Bangladesh in 2022-23, it is a major market for Pakistan. Country-wise exports of cotton denim fabrics from Pakistan are given in Table 2.
The world's top denim fabric exporting country in 2023 was China while the top denim fabric importing country was Bangladesh. Mexico was the largest supplier of denim jeans to the USA while Bangladesh was the largest supplier of denim jeans to the EU. America tops the list of denim jeans users and an average estimate puts the figure at 450 million pairs a year. The top global denim fabric exporting countries are China, Hong Kong, Turkey, Italy, Pakistan, India, Spain and Brazil.
Future Prospects
Traditionally the denim fabric is made of 100% cotton indigo dyed warp and white weft yarn of coarser counts. The fabrics are woven on projectile, rapier, airjet and shuttle looms.
Initially the denim fabric was developed as work wear. Now the scenario is different. Denim fabric has gained immense popularity and accepted by all irrespective of gender, age-groups and profession. So, there is tremendous challenge on the part of denim product manufactures to innovate and develop products to suit requirements of different consumers.
Table 2: Exports of Cotton Woven Denim Fabrics
Source: Pakistan Bureau of Statistics.
Currently, jeans are available in a variety of colors and styles to suit various consumer needs. Denim represents an evergreen fashion trend. Denim sales based on styles and fits are heavily dependent on street fashion and celebrity fashion trends. Growth in the market is influenced by economic, social and demographic trends.
The innovation remains critical to market growth and jeans have been reinvented from time to time over the last few decades. The manufacturers are focusing on newer designs, styles, and fit to suit changing consumer preferences and fashion trends.
The market situation does not allow the global players in the denim to increase consumer prices and therefore
they have to absorb the price increases from denim fabric producers worldwide.
Since major denim importing countries are opting for vertical integration, export markets are shrinking and margins are under pressure.
Manufacturers can either improve their production practices to enhance productivity and hence reduce costs or increase value addition at the fabric stage by producing premium quality denim.
In this scenario, Pakistan has emerged as a key supplier of this highly demanded fabric due to the competitive prices and in house innovations by the denim manufacturers in Pakistan. In conclusion, it is well accepted that denim is an evergreen fashion and liked by all irrespective of gender, age and profession. A lot of innovation and research are to be done on continuous basis to fulfill requirements of diverse consumers keeping in mind its impact on society and environment.
References
1.Pakistan Bureau of Statistics.
2.State Bank of Pakistan-Annual Reports.
3.Trade Development Authority of Pakistan.
Techtextil & Texprocess score with growth and set as drivers of innovation the course for futureproof industries
High-tech textiles in twelve application areas, the global innovative power of technical textiles and nonwovens as well as the digitalisation of the textileprocessing industry: with 38,000 visitors from 102 countries and 1,700 exhibitors from 53 countries, Techtextil and Texprocess have grown in terms of exhibitor numbers and recorded a 29 percent increase in visitor numbers. At the leading trade fairs, the density of forward-looking textile solutions that are transforming entire industries was particularly noticeable.
Techtextil and Texprocess 2024 ended with 1,700 exhibitors from 53 countries, 38,000 visitors from 102 countries and a 29 percent increase in visitor numbers. The top visitor nations were Germany, Italy, France, Turkey and the Netherlands.
The top exhibitor nations were Germany, Italy, China, France and Turkey. Countries such as Egypt, China, Indonesia, Kosovo, Luxembourg, Moldova and Thailand contributed to the expansion of exhibitors, among others.
In times of emerging AI technologies, increasing legislative requirements and high energy costs, both trade fairs offered the markets the most important international marketplace for product innovations along the textile value chain at the right time: "With an overwhelming atmosphere and growth in size, exhibitors and visitors, Techtextil and Texprocess made it clear: textile innovation for a wide range of industries can only be found in this global width and strength here in Frankfurt. The textile industry, through both leading trade fairs, becomes the driving force and enabler for cross-
industry transformations and a globally future-proof economy", said Detlef Braun, Member of the Executive Board, Messe Frankfurt GmbH.
75 percent of visitors - including producers, engineers from various industries, architects, processors, industrial designers, clothing and construction material manufacturers, R&D decision-makers, medical developers, product developers and other top executives - thoroughly leveraged the cross-networking opportunities, spanning from the preliminary stages of Techtextil to the wide array of processing and clothing technologies offered at Texprocess. The trade fair duo thereby set the stage for numerous international collaborations and business initiations, fostering innovation across sectors and making them market-ready.
Visitor satisfaction at a very high level
Exhibitors and visitors made intensive use of the trade fairs as efficient sales channels, made new international contacts and gained a concentrated overview of the global spectrum of hightech textiles that can be used across industries, as well as the latest machines and technologies for textile processing.
Visitor satisfaction at both events was at a very high level: 95 percent of visitors were satisfied overall with their trade fair visit, achieved their trade fair objectives and were impressed by the range of exhibitors.
20 years of Techtextil: biggest edition sets new standards
In its anniversary edition, Techtextil set a record in terms of size and underlined the dynamic growth and innovative strength of the textile industry.
Studies confirm the enormous future prospects of technical textiles: Fortune Business Insights[1] estimates the global market at 225.99 billion dollars in 2023 and forecasts an increase to 346.67 billion dollars by 2030. Similar forecasts by Allied Market Research[2] expect an increase to 331.8 billion dollars by 2032. Within the EU textile industry, technical textiles are the most dynamic drivers of demand in sectors such as medicine, agriculture, construction, outdoor clothing and automotive.
Techtextil is the only platform in the world to showcase the entire range of high-tech textiles across 12 application areas. In addition to examples such as medical textiles with a virus barrier, fibre structures for sound insulation in the construction industry or technical nonwovens for the automotive industry, these also included innovative world firsts in 2024: from the latest weaving technology with an open shed from the start-up Casmue, a new type of coating for self-cooling textiles from the German Institutes of Textile and Fibre Research Denkendorf to recyclable insulating textiles made of bio-based aerogel fibres from the start-up SA-Dynamics. Techtextil also placed a clear focus on sustainable action and production. More than 15 percent of the exhibitors presented natural fibres and materials.
"Techtextil is the most important industry event of the year for us and
went really well for us in 2024. Once again, we were able to showcase our technology expertise to visitors. The special aspect about this global industry meeting place is that it not only brings us potential new customers, but we also meet our partner companies and suppliers here. The connection with Texprocess creates fantastic synergies. Techtextil 2024 has made it clear that the industry is on the move and sustainability is the overarching theme. We were surprised and pleased that we were visited by a particularly large number of young visitors - students as well as young innovators - with very specific requests for cooperation, also with regard to our sustainable solutions," says Holger Michael Steingräber, Senior Vice President Global Marketing & Communications, Freudenberg Performance Materials.
"Techtextil 2024 has shown: We are on the right track with investments in circular economy. The response to our scalable solution that recycles garments into multifibres was downright enthusiastic. The trade fair went very well for us. We met existing and new customers, especially from Scandinavia and Southern Europe. What we really appreciate about Techtextil: Our end customers come to the show and exchange ideas with us in order to understand the benefits of our developments for their employees. And last but not least, Techtextil is simply the right place to present your innovation," says Amaury Sartorius, Managing Director, Klopman.
"Techtextil is extremely important and very valuable for us. We see and feel the market, meet our customers, suppliers
and new interested parties from all over the world, especially from Europe and overseas. Sustainability is the hot topic here in the exhibition halls and is much more present than it was two years ago. Textile companies around the world are working hard to reduce CO2 emissions and comply with CSR regulations. The tightening European regulations are playing a large part in this. Accordingly, the demand here at Techtextil for our sustainable developments, such as our PVC alternative with fifty percent CO2 savings, is strong," says Michèle Sioen, CEO, Sioen Industries.
"Techtextil was an outstanding experience for us at Lenzing. The trade fair was very well attended and we were able to maintain valuable customer contacts and gain new ones. The diversity of visitors was particularly impressivefrom experienced experts to curious students who came to find out about our innovative and sustainable fibre technologies. It is clearly noticeable that the topic of recycling is becoming increasingly important. Techtextil was a complete success for us," says Oliver Spöcker, Global Sales Director, Lenzing AG.
[1] Fortune Business Insights (2024): Market Research Report (Database: 2022)
[2] Allied Market Research (2024): Technical Textile Market by Material (Natural Fiber, Synthetic Polymers/Fibers, Mineral Fiber, Regenerated Fiber, Metal Fiber, and Others), Process (Woven, Knitted, Non-Woven, and Others) and End-Use Application (MobilTech, InduTech, SporTech, BuildTech, HomeTech, ClothTech, MediTech, AgroTech, ProTech, PackTech, GeoTech, and OekoTech): Global Opportunity Analysis And Industry Forecast, 2023-2032.
Texprocess strengthens its pioneering role in digitalisation and automation
At Texprocess, a vast array of cuttingedge machines, processes, and services for textile and apparel processing were exhibited, spanning from innovative AI technologies to design systems and visualization tools, along with highly efficient cutting and state-of-the-art sewing machines. Texprocess presented pivotal solutions harnessing the latest technologies.
"For the Texprocess exhibitors, this trade fair was more important than ever before. The entire textile processing industry is facing enormous challenges worldwide, such as changing trade conditions or labor shortages. Many new technological solutions to these challenges were on show at Texprocess. There are great new developments, especially in the areas of digitalisation, automation and AI. Texprocess has thus focused on the future and highlighted many new opportunities", says Elgar Straub, Managing Director, VDMA Textile Care, Fabrics and Leather Technologies.
"Against the backdrop of the current industry situation, our expectations were rather muted. The trade fair really exceeded them. The visitors were very well balanced in terms of internationality and fields of application. Europe was there entirely, but also the Middle East, Bangladesh, India, Pakistan, the USA and Mexico. Our customers drive automation and process optimisation. We presented future-oriented solutions in this fieldincluding our CNC sewing unit with rotating sewing kinematics, which won the Innovation Award, as well as an AIbased seam correction," says Michael Kilian, COO, Dürkopp Adler.
In the areas of sewing technology and cutting solutions, Texprocess offered the world's most comprehensive range of suppliers presenting pioneering solutions for efficient and advanced manufacturing processes - also through AI: "This year, we presented our latest innovation, which integrates AI directly on the machine. Texprocess is exactly the right platform for this: a meeting point for technology, partnerships, customers from all over the world and indispensable for the global fashion industry. We made numerous new contacts, including from markets new to us such as South Africa and
Australia," emphasises Marta Maiandi, CTO, Orox Group. The exhibitor Eurolaser was also delighted: "The trade fair went excellently for us. Visitors came from all over Europe, the USA, Mexico and further interesting markets and, of course, from very diverse application areas such as protective clothing, medicine and automotive. The format trade fair is back in full force. Our biggest innovation is our camera system, which sits directly on the bar. It scans the entire table in three seconds and optimises the cut and contours," says Laura Capone, Chief Sales Officer, Eurolaser.
The exhibitor Assyst provided insights into what a completely digital, sustainable and profitable future for the fashion industry looks like - with AI-driven solutions that support design in the creative process and visualise styles in real time: "Texprocess 2024 was extremely successful for us. Our visitors were enthusiastic about how uncomplicated digitalisation becomes for the apparel industry when AI, 3D simulation and 2D CAD are seamlessly integrated. With a highly interested international trade audience, the trade fair offers the ideal environment to present this type of product innovation," says Hans Peter Hiemer, Managing Director, Style3D | Assyst.
Trade fair duo shines with research, knowledge transfer and high-quality content
A powerful mix of topics drove the intensive exchange between research and industry and provided visitors with
important impulses on the newest textile solutions, intelligent materials and the latest research results in the sectors. Numerous exhibitors, start-ups and renowned research institutes demonstrated at both trade fairs that AI, digitalisation and automation are significantly advancing the industry. Whether textile recycling, fault detection in production and processing, networked production steps or smart clothing that monitors the wearer's physical functionsthe new opportunities offered by AI and digitalisation are multifaceted. These technologies are paving the way for the future of the industry.
Latest materials and recycling technologies in times of legislative requirements
In times of upcoming legislative requirements as part of the EU strategy for sustainable textiles, Techtextil and Texprocess focussed on recyclable solutions and the latest research results on resource efficiency and recyclability. This was also reflected in the increased number of exhibitors in the Econogy Finder: more than twice as many exhibitors were checked against the criteria of recognised labels and certificates as well as the Sustainable Development Goals and were included in the Finder. In addition, the Econogy Talks provided a platform for dialogue on resource-saving solutions, while the Econogy Tours led by an independent expert provided first-hand insights on sustainable products.
IGATEX Pakistan 2024 concluded with global participation and high hopes for the textile industry
IGATEX PAKISTAN – Country’s Largest Garment, Textile & Digital Printing Machinery and Accessories Exhibition organized by Fakt Exhibitions (Pvt.) Ltd. opened its doors on 1st May 2024 at Expo Centre Lahore. The exhibition was inaugurated by Guest of Honors Mr. Zaki Aijaz, Regional Chairman –The Federation of Pakistan Chambers of Commerce & Industry, H.E. Mr. Ladislav Steinhübel – Ambassador of Czech Republic, Dr. Salvatore ParanoTrade Commissioner of Italy, Mr. Saleem Khan Tanoli – CEO Fakt Exhibitions (Pvt.) Ltd. and other renowned names of the industry.
On this occasion, the Guests stated that “Fakt Exhibitions (Pvt.) Ltd. has taken a wonderful initiative by organizing IGATEX PAKISTAN Exhibition, which provides a worthy opportunity for the textile industry to showcase their innovative technology and services. The event has played a pivotal role in strengthening the economic ties between Pakistan and rest of the world”.
Speaking on the occasion, Saleem Khan Tanoli, CEO of Fakt Exhibitions (Pvt.) Ltd. stated, "We are glad to see such an overwhelming response for IGATEX PAKISTAN 2024. The massive
turnout and positive feedback from exhibitors and visitors reaffirm the importance of this event as a catalyst for innovation and growth for the textile industry. IGATEX PAKISTAN has brought together industry leaders, innovators, and stakeholders to unlock unlimited opportunities for growth and collaborations.”
IGATEX PAKISTAN the pioneer event of its kind has continually set the benchmark for excellence over its 22-year history. This year's edition surpassed all expectations, showcasing cutting-edge garments, textiles, digital printing machinery, and technology. Over 500 companies from 30 countries, including Austria, Belgium, China, Germany, Italy, Japan, Pakistan, Spain, Switzerland, Turkey, the UK, and the USA showcased their latest innovations, technologies, and next-generation solutions aimed at transforming the textile industry.
Alongside the exhibition, IGATEX PAKISTAN Conference also took place on 2nd May 2024 at Expo Centre Lahore. The
conference provided a platform for industry stakeholders and thought leaders to exchange insights and explore innovative solutions, sustainability and technological advancement in the textile industry.
The exhibition received an overwhelming response as a huge number of visitors turned to the exhibition and showed keen interest in the technology and cutting-edge machinery on showcase. From state-ofthe-art textile machinery models to sustainable applications, visitors were treated to a wide range of innovations and services poised to revolutionize the textile industry.
Saurer showcased sustainable technologies during IGATEX 2024
At the IGATEX exhibition in Lahore, Saurer showcased cutting-edge textile technologies. Visitors witnessed highspeed air spinning technology
Autoairo, the latest Autocoro 11 technology, and a model of the BD 8 semiautomatic rotor spinning machine. Additionally, the booth featured the new features and digital settings of the Autocard SC 7 card model.
Saurer aims to assist Pakistani customers in achieving their textile production goals, whether it's producing commodity yarns cost-effectively, recycling yarns from OE machines, or creating high-quality ring yarns while maximizing spinning mill productivity.
beneficial for towel yarns with high demands for absorbency and sustainability. Autocoro 11, especially in its Recycling Xtreme version, leads in short fiber spinning, minimizing yarn breaks, reducing energy consumption, and maximizing yarn quality.
The BD series, renowned for over 50 years, including the BD 8, sets new standards in semi-automatic rotor spinning, emphasizing economy, efficiency, and sustainability. Ring spinning technology, exemplified by Saurer's ZI 72XL and Zinser 51, offers flexibility and productivity, especially in processing recycled materials.
Autocard SC7, emphasizing automation and digitization to enhance production and quality while reducing labor.
Saurer's expertise extends to spinning preparation with carding machines like
Automation is integral to Saurer's vision, exemplified by solutions like the Bobbin Transport System and studies presented at ITMA 2023, tailored to mill structures and customer needs.
SUN (Service unlimited) underscores Saurer's commitment to sustainability and customer support, offering retrofit and upgrade solutions to reduce energy consumption and extend machine life.
Texparts, showcased at booth B36, Hall 3, presents product innovations including drafting arms, rings, travelers, and energy-saving spindles for various spinning methods.
Picanol at IGATEX Pakistan 2024
Together with our agent Madhani Associates, Picanol presented at the 13th International Garment and Textile Machinery Exhibition and Conference at the Expo Centre in Lahore (Pakistan) from May 1st to 4th, 2024.
For more than eighty years, Picanol has played a pioneering role in the global textile industry and it is currently the world’s leading weaving machine manufacturer. Picanol develops, manufactures, and sells high-tech weaving machines based on airjet and rapier technology. Picanol offers upgrade kits, spare parts, training, troubleshooting services and also digital services for its weaving machines through PicConnect. Picanol has its headquarters in Ieper (Belgium) and it employs more than 1,200 people worldwide.
“We were delighted to be
participating in IGATEX, which is an important date on the calendar of the Pakistani textile industry. During the exhibition, our guests had the opportunity to visit our new training center in Lahore where our rapier and airjet machines are in operation. Pakistan remains one of the most important and largest markets for us. Next to our training center, we continuously invest in service to guarantee our customers fast and efficient technical support. A strong team of no less than 11 engineers, headed by the experienced Service Engineer Clinton
Andritz at IGATEX
Mr. Swen Schwen, Area Sales Manager: Andritz Kuesters offered solutions for textile finishing textile calendars. with a huge reference list in Pakistan, Pakistan remains one of the most important markets for textiles. However, we offered solutions in other fields that are getting more and more interesting in the Pakistani market. We saw an increasing demand for non-wovens, hygiene products and for medical treatments as well as geotextiles and so on.
“We have been working in this market for more than 30 years together with Nazer & Co with Mr. Abbas Mooraj who is well known in the market and the Nazer name is one of the most respected in Pakistan. I was happy to be at the IGATEX exhibition and I find that such activities are important for the growth of the industry.”
Blackler, is serving the Pakistani market with dedication and professionalism. Installations, troubleshooting, and training sessions are the daily commitments they make to our valued weavers. The best performing machines in combination with the best team really make the difference and are key for success!” explains Bruno Caffieri, Sales Manager.
We excitedly shared our latest innovations in textile machinery engineering and technologies with the visitors of IGATEX.
PAKISTAN
RIFA shared exciting products during IGATEX 2024
RIFA presented their Blow-room machinery, RS51 rotor spinning machine and MK8 Carding Machine attracting numerous industry experts, customers, and professional visitors to their booth for observation, interaction, and exchange.
Blow-room machinery is a set of machines used in the textile industry for the initial processing of raw cotton or other fibers. The primary function of this machinery is to clean, open, and blend the fibers to prepare them for further processing. The process involves several stages, including opening the bales of raw material, removing impurities and dust, blending different types of fibers for uniformity, and finally, creating a consistent sheet or lap of material. This machinery plays a crucial role in ensuring the quality and consistency of the final textile product, making it an essential part of any textile production line.
RS51 rotor spinning machine adopts single spindle take-up yarn technology which is a product with simple operation and advanced automation. It has the characteristics of more rotor no., high speed, multiple varieties, and high efficiency.
The MK8 Carding Machine from Rifa is developed from the original technology
of Crosrol in the United Kingdom. Thanks to the powerful technology research and development platform of Rifa Textile Machinery, through continuous technological innovation, it dares to innovate and gradually form full-process pre-spinning equipment with core competitiveness. Rifa is committed to providing customers with excellent intelligent solutions.
Diversify your denim dyeing with the Monforts Thermex
More than 40 Monforts Thermex continuous dyeing ranges have been installed in Pakistan in recent years, many of them at the mills of the country’s’s leading denim manufacturers, who appreciate the major benefits of the Econtrol®* continuous dyeing and drying process, which is suitable for all woven cellulosic fabrics.
“With this process, reactive dyestuffs are very effectively fixed into the fabric with a controlled combination of steam and air,” explains Monforts Head of Service Volker Gingter, who is here at Igatex 2024 along with the company’s Area Sales Manager Manfred Havenith.
The parameters for fixing reactive dyes, he adds, are the temperature, the duration and the alkali content, but reactive dyes need a certain temperature in order to be fixed quickly. The entire
Econtrol®pad-dry process takes just twoto-three minutes at a temperature of between 120-130°C and a relative humidity volume of 25-30%
“The process is suitable for pale to dark shades with very good fastness properties and waste water treatment is also improved by this technology,” says Manfred Havenith.
“Monforts technologists can provide full training with this process as an additional service. During IGATEX we also happily discussed this with the visitors at the stand of our long-term local partner Al Ameen.”
* Econtrol is a registered mark of Dystar Colours Distribution GmbH.
Erbatech’s excellent solutions for continuous knit processing
Erbatech GmbH, based in Erbach, develops, designs and manufactures high-quality machines for continuous wet finishing of knitted and woven fabrics. With 50 years of experience, Erbatech is the market leader in the development of machines and systems for the wet finishing of knitwear.
According to Timucin Benal, Sales Manager Erbatech, the difference because they are successful in knit fabrics is that since the beginning, they have focused on knitted fabrics developing machinery to process knitted fabrics with very little tension. The reason why people are jet dyeing the knitted fabrics is because previously it was not possible to dye it on continuous lines. When woven fabrics are mostly dyed or treated on continuous bleaching lines, dye padders and washing machines, knits were not
Rieter: The
your Yarn
The compacting device COMPACTeasy from Rieter offers higher yarn quality and better performance in downstream processes, as well as the ability to switch between the production of ring and compact yarn.
From ring to compact yarn with COMPACTeasy
COMPACTeasy features a compacting system with an y-shaped channel, enabling intensive double compacting without any additional energy consumption.
The yarn quality is determined by both the y-channel of the compactor and the integrated pin. The pin acts on the fibers while they are in the drafting system area – the area where they have the least guidance. The compacting device can be easily retrofitted on existing machines.
processed on continuous lines as the technology wasn’t available earlier. Therefore, the focus of Erbatech from the beginning was to solve the issues of processing the knit fabrics on continuous machines, resulting in savings in water, utilities, and labor costs while providing better fabrics quality.
“We currently have two major installations in Pakistan, at “Style and Masood Group” running successfully.
I will have to say that Pakistan's textile industry is very experienced, we are really happy with the level of knowledge that people have about this market and we can see that people have been making textiles here for a very long
time. The companies are very professional and we also believe that there is a great future potential in Pakistan. “We have been working with Nazer and Co. for a long time and we are very happy working with them, they are very professional, they are present and well established. We are honored to be working with them and we have a very good working partnership with them.”.”
Easy way to Upgrade
Boosting productivity and quality
For example COMPACTeasy on ring spinning machines G 37. With the production of combed compact yarn, productivity on the G 37 has increased by 7%. To compare the yarn quality produced on the G 37 with and without COMPACTeasy, the compacting device was plugged out at several spinning positions. As a result, combed ring and combed compact yarn (from 100% cotton with a yarn count Ne 30) was produced on the same machine. The results for unevenness were similar for
both the ring and compact yarn. In terms of hairiness and tenacity, the compact yarn achieved a significantly better quality: tenacity was 12% higher and hairiness 28% lower.
Excellent performance in downstream processes
Thanks to COMPACTeasy, the customer now benefits from all the advantages of a compact yarn. These advantages are not only noticeable in higher yarn quality, but also have a positive impact on downstream processes.
Baldwin’s sustainable solutions at IGATEX Pakistan 2024
Baldwin, a leading global manufacturer and supplier of precision spray systems and technology for sustainable textile manufacturing, to optimize performance and resource saving in the finishing department, introduced Texcoat G4 at the ITMA trade show, in Barcelona, 2019, and till date the textile industry is taking advantage of Texcoat G4 to save valuable resources like water and energy.
“The Igatex was busier than expected . Since Baldwin started our journey in Pakistan with Al Ameen as our partner two years ago, we have several TexCoats running with key manufacturers on both wovens and knits in Pakistan. Our customers tell us their energy, water and chemical savings are earning them money every month while lowering their carbon footprint.”
The TexCoat G4 offers the possibility of unprecedented tracking and control of the finishing process to secure a consistent quality. Changeovers are easily and quickly performed thanks to the recipe management including automated chemistry and coverage selection. Furthermore, the system offers automated speed tracking, fabric width compensation, real-time monitoring possibilities to track system uptime, performance, and chemistry usage, as well as active care alerts.
The TexCoat G4 can process a wide range of low-viscosity water-based chemicals, such as water-repellants, softeners, anti-microbials and more, in wet-on-wet applications and lamination processes. Additionally, the system is completely sealed encapsulating all aerosols and thereby securing a healthy working environment for the operator.
The non-contact spray technology brings numerous advantages compared to conventional methods of applying finishing chemistry. The chemistry is uniformly distributed across the textile surface and is applied only where it is required – on one or both sides of the fabric. This is highly beneficial e.g. when applying water repellants on laminated fabrics as it eliminates the problem of chemistry affecting the quality of the adhesion layer. Furthermore, the noncontact technology eliminates chemistry dilution in wet-on-wet processes, allowing full control of maintaining consistent chemistry coverage rates. Additionally, with no bath contamination during the finishing process, there is zero downtime during color or fabric changeovers.
The TexCoat G4 significantly improves sustainability, leading to increased profitability. 100% of the over sprayed chemistry is recycled and 0% chemistry is wasted during changeovers of chemistry, color or fabric. As only the
necessary amount of chemistry is applied to the fabric, a reduced wet pick-up level of 50% can be achieved, further leading to a 50% reduction of water and energy consumption. The low wet pick-up levels together with a single side spray application enables combined processes and can completely eliminate drying steps, e.g. for laminated fabrics and in finishing of upholstery textiles.
About Baldwin Technology Company Inc.
Baldwin Technology Company Inc. is a leading global manufacturer and supplier of innovative process-automation equipment, parts, service and consumables for the printing, packaging, textile, plastic film extrusion and corrugated industries. As a total solutions provider, Baldwin offers our customers a broad range of market-leading technologies, with a focus on improving the economic and environmental efficiency of production processes. Through a global footprint of 21 company-owned locations and an extensive network of partners, our customers are supported globally, regionally and locally by dedicated sales and service team members who add value by forming long-term relationships. Baldwin is privately owned by BW Forsyth Partners, a Barry-Wehmiller company.
FABRIC and yarn DYEING with Thies
Thies fabric- dyeing systems cover the entire spectrum of piece-dyeing applications. Natural and synthetic fibres are dyed and finished in a wide variety of fibre types and structures as knitted and woven goods.
The yarn dyeing machines, material carriers and pressure dryers from Thies set standards in terms of gentle process control, quality, reproducibility and costeffectiveness. Our planning department, with its practical experience, is the right partner for the project planning of complete dyeing plants and the expansion of existing plants. We offer you intelligent automation solutions for growing demands.
Signature Series: Signature Series is the transformational technology for greater energy efficiency and sustainability. Unique to this disruptive technology are the low consumption data for water, dyes, salts and energy. Three different operating modes, with and without air support, open up a wide range of applications for diverse fiber types and product structures, including woven fabrics, knitted fabrics and circular knits.
iMaster H2O: Due to the low consumption of resources and the short process times, the iMaster series is a highly economical shor-liquor dyeing machine from many different kinds of woven and knitting goods. It's well proven functions offer the highest flexibility and process safety. For the treatment of small batches, the iMaster Mini is recommended.
Soft-TRD SIII: The gentle treatment of surface and creased sensitive articles is one of the main assets of the soft-TRD. It is suitable, for example, for dyeing unfixed polyester goods. The soft-TRD combines excellent running properties with the latest short liquor ratio technology, starting at 1:5. Woven and knitted fabric as well as non-wovens are treated gently. The modern control system ensures that the temperature is evenly distributed within the kier. So even the most sensitive polyester articles are processed successfully.
iCone: Water, effluent, chemicals, dyes, electricity and thermal energy are significant cause factors of dye applications. The newly designed flow reversal system and the heat exchanger offer the flexibility to optimize these consumption figures. With the liquor ratio starting at 1:3.6 for short liquor operation and one 1:5.6 for the fully flooded system, the iCone can handle yarn packages, muffs, warp beams, loose stock and tops “Green” Functions increase the machine's performance even further and help users to reduce costs.
Karl Mayer Warp Preparation at IGATEX Pakistan
Peter Obrist, Senior Sales Manager, Warp Preparation, gave his comments at Igatex Pakistan 2024.
“I am in charge for Pakistan since many years. My first visit to Pakistan was in 1995, next year I will be celebrating 30 years anniversary with Pakistan.
I remember that in 90s along with Picanol we introduced the first wide width warping and sizing machine, 3 meter 40 centimeter in single beam. Over the years it has become the world standard. So one can say that Pakistan incollaboration with Picanol and Karl Mayer in those days set a new standard.
I believe that textile industry historically has been important in Pakistan and the technicians and the engineers have a very good reputation, they are among the best in the world if not the best, so I see a very bright future of textile industry in Pakistan. Madhani Associates represent us
in Pakistan, we are very pleased to work. we have very good understanding and mutual trust in each other which is the foundation of good business.
Stäubli: Trend-setting technology for the industry
Stäubli is a global industrial and mechatronic solution provider with four dedicated Divisions: Electrical Connectors, Fluid Connectors, Robotics and Textile, serving customers who aim to increase their productivity in many industrial sectors. Stäubli currently operates in 28 countries, with agents in 50 countries on four continents. Its global workforce of 6,000 shares a commitment to partnering with customers in nearly every industry to provide comprehensive solutions with long-term support. Originally founded in 1892 as a small workshop in Horgen/Zurich, Switzerland, today Stäubli is an international Group headquartered in Pfäffikon, Switzerland.
Stäubli manufactures high speed textile machinery and offers solutions adapted to the requirements of each user. Our machines and accessories include automated weaving preparation systems, shedding solutions for frame and
Jacquard weaving, weaving systems for carpet and technical fabrics.
Weaving Preparation
Stäubli offers machines for multi-layer leasing, automatic drawing-in, and warp tying for optimising the weaving preparation and ensuring continuous production.
Frame Weaving
With its proven technology of cam motions and dobbies, Stäubli provides shedding solutions for any type of weaving machine and ensures best weaving quality.
Jacquard Weaving
The broad range of Jacquard machines includes high-productivity weaving solutions for all types of flat fabrics, terry cloth and technical fabrics.
Schönherr carpet weaving machines for single or double-face, pile, loop, or flat carpet for residential, contract and transportation end uses.
Technical Weaving
Stäubli weaving machines for complex technical textiles, including reinforcement fabrics for lightweight applications and heavy industrial textiles.
Goller’s wide range of premium machinery
GTM Goller Textilmaschinen GmbH with over a century of recognition in Germany, has been a part of FONGS Group since 2006. Goller’s becoming a part of FONGS ensured that the company continues to develop and produce the renowned Goller’s textile wet finishing machinery and auxiliaries for the global market, and meanwhile helps to strengthen the overall product portfolio of the Group by offering customers a “one-stop service” with a wide range of premium machinery.
Richard Fander, sales director Goller, shared “Pakistan is one of the most important markets for the Goller continuous lines in our product portfolio. A lot of people know, of course, Goller is a long-lasting partner in the textile industry. Together with Al Ameen since
1956, Goller’s presence in the market is substantial.”
Mr. Fander addressed the concern of how a supplier can survive this long in an environment battled by competition: “The answer is that we have a good partnership with our partners in the textile industry but also good partners with our agents Al Ameen. Together, this leads to synergies that we are still able to
convince customers to buy our machines. We have a good service, This is mainly provided by Al Ameen, but also by our longstanding experienced technicians who are permanently here in the market and we provide good quality and further develop constantly to meet the demands of the market and that is the main reason why we are still successful and happy to work here with all the customers in pakistan.
Carpet Weaving
Temsan Air Engineering: Combining Your Experience with Ours Will Lead to Perfection
The major aim is to ensure that your textile mill produces at the highest efficiency. As one of the biggest manufacturers we offer complete process solution in textile humidification system, highest reliability for efficiently performance, energy saving and quality of your mill.
Since 1960 we combine the KnowHow concept and dedication to follow the cutting edge technologies to provide flawless humidification systems. Thanks to our agencies all over the world, we are just next to you, resulting with effective and quick service solutions.
Our project department and R&D center design, develop and improve to answer your special requirements. With the support of our professional development team and collaborations with universities, our design and automation innovations we are always one step ahead. This has already been tested by numerous amount of applications since almost 60 years.
Just a machine manufacturer, but fabric manufacturer at the same time.
A solution partner, but we are a lifetime partner.
Close to you, we are right next to you.
Temson Air Engineering is an air engineering company which focuses in textiles, we are working since 30 years in this sector. In Pakistan, in this beautiful country right now, we have 60 projects
and more than 40 customers. As a worldwide company we were glad to be part of the IGATEX show. We enjoyed meeting visitors, our friends, our existing and potential customers. Inshallah, the productive disscusions during the show will lead for the more exciting projects in the future. And within this year, our new recycling machine will also be run in Turkey. We are confident that we will sell new machines in Pakistan altogether.
Valuable Asset
not obligatory, it is within our soul. We live, work, communicate and manufacture in this way.
Efficient Together
The group companies of Temsan has more than 1000 employees, all skilled to provide quality output in every phase. As the most valuable asset of our company, we are always looking forward to finding new ways to improve dedication. Dedication to quality, time management, efficiency and perfection.
Each and every employee in our group of companies are being educated for a more sustainable workflow. Our main aim as a leading global manufacturer is to develop our brand to a further extend and to continue to be the role model of the industry.
Temsan Discipline
It is the discipline; what brings perfection. As Temsan, we are truly dedicated to bringing our products on time, above the expected quality with a maximized efficiency. Each and every segment of our employees embrace this notion and work within a totally disciplined way. It is
Our relation with the concept of efficiency can be described with the word ‘Obsession'. Each and every step we take is focused on quality are accompanied with efficiency. But is that enough?
Efficiency cannot be achieved alone. We are only efficient when we act together.
It all depends to actions of all players in this game. We design, manufacture, install our products and cooperate with our clients to run them in the most efficient way. This is about the future of sustainability. This is about our core values.
Better Together
This notion is our priority. That is why we value to be on your side. After installing our products to your facility, our team delivers an on-site education for your employees to get the maximum of your Temsan product. Our after sales team regularly visits your site for maintenance and update educations. We love our products running in maximum efficiency. We love being together, because it is better together.
COLOURizd™ Partners with (TEP) to Bring QuantumCOLOUR Technology to Pakistan
COLOURizd™ represents a groundbreaking technology for dyeing cellulosic yarn sustainably. This method eliminates the discharge of harmful chemicals, drastically reduces water consumption by over 98%, optimizes chemical usage, minimizes infrastructure requirements, and slashes energy consumption by 50% compared to traditional fiber reactive dyeing processes.
COLOURizd™ is an innovative continuous yarn coloration method that imparts color to yarn structures sans traditional textile processing equipment, excessive water consumption, or high energy demands. The substantial efficiencies achieved translate into significant cost savings per kilo of colored yarn.
The yarns created through this process are favored by prominent industry brands for their exceptional quality. This technology provides yarns with a pre-washed appearance, minimizing the necessity for washing during the garment or fabric stage, a feature highly sought after by many brands targeting the casual wear market in clothing and home textiles.
During IGATEX, Mr. Nadeem Mazhar, Senior Editor at Pakistan Textile Journal, engaged in an insightful one-on-one conversation with Jennifer Thompson, the CEO of COLOURizd.
PTJ: Could you kindly introduce yourself and elaborate on the company you lead?
Jennifer Thompson: Hello, I’m Jennifer Thompson, CEO of COLOURizd. We've pioneered a transformative method for coloring yarns sustainably. Our process involves using a mere liter of water per kilo of yarn, ensuring extreme
sustainability. Moreover, we completely eliminate wastewater discharge, obviating the need for water treatment during yarn coloring.
PTJ: Can you delve into the genesis of this innovative process and its commencement?
Jennifer Thompson: Our process entails injecting color and a binder into the yarn structure, resulting in unique yarn properties. The concept originated in the linen industry, particularly from Delavan linen, known for its costly process of achieving a soft, washed-down
appearance in yarns. We aimed to replicate this effect on cotton costeffectively. Subsequently, we not only mimicked the look of cotton but also gained meticulous control over color application on yarns, enabling us to create dimensional effects without additional dyeing steps or harsh washes.
PTJ: Could you showcase the capabilities of your system?
Jennifer Thompson: Certainly, a prime example is the Breeze shirt by Contour Brands under Wrangler, crafted using our technology. This fabric showcases exceptional quality and unique features. With our method, they colored yarns using only one liter of water per kilo, eliminating the need for further processes like garment washing, ensuring direct delivery to consumers without compromise. This aligns with their commitment to reducing water usage within their brand.
PTJ: Are there any fabric limitations to your technology, or does it cater to a wide range, including knits and woven denim?
SJennifer Thompson: Surprisingly, our technology exhibits versatility across fabric types, as pigments and binders adhere efficiently to various fibers in a single pass. We can effortlessly color cellulosic fibers like cotton, linen, spun
polyester, as well as viscose and regenerated fibers, including complex blends. Presently, we primarily focus on filament-based fabrics, effortlessly tackling spun yarns. Furthermore, ongoing research involves working with recycled yarns, where we’ve observed enhanced strength and significant resource savings.
PTJ: How has your experience engaging with Pakistani customers and prospective clients been?
Jennifer Thompson: Our interactions in Pakistan have been enriching. It's my inaugural visit, and I've encountered warmth and hospitality, coupled with incredible cuisine experiences. I might be heading back a bit heavier due to the amazing food!
PTJ: What are your impressions of Pakistan as a market for your technology?
Jennifer Thompson: Pakistan has been an inspiring market. The companies here exhibit a keen interest in our
innovative approach and display a genuine openness to embracing new technologies that propel sustainability and competitiveness. The receptiveness and forward-thinking mindset of Pakistani businesses are commendable, setting the stage for transformative advancements in the industry.
Mayer & Cie MFC 3.2: Our performance for your profit
Mayer & Cie’s MFC. 3.2 machine is displayed at Nazer & Co’s stand at IGATEX 2024. It is based on a completely new design concept for perfect 3-thread fleece structures.
In the MFC 3.2, the fleece thread collects the binding thread. In contrast to common procedure, the fleece thread is not positioned in the needle hook. This means there are hardly any limits to the fleece thread’s thickness.
The MFC 3.2 is an attractively priced solutions when it comes to lightweight and elastic 3-thread fleece fabrics. It’s perfect plating results are due to the presentation and laying of the fleece yarn around the needle shaft.
Whenever fabrics for outer war and sports and leisure wear are needed, the MFC 3.2 is the machine to go with.
Mayer & Cie. (MCT) is one of the world's leading manufacturers of circular knitting machines. The company offers the full range of machines needed for the production of modern textiles – from fabrics for home textiles, sportswear, nightwear and swimwear, seat covers and underwear to technical textiles. In addition, Mayer & Cie. regularly develops new approaches.
