Pakistan Textile Journal, March-2021 by Pakistan Textile Journal

Calendar of Events ISTANBUL YARN FAIR Dates: February 22nd to 26th 2022.

Techtextil 2021, Frankfurt Dates: May 4th to 7th, 2021 Venue: Frankfurt am Main.

iCADEX Pakistan 2021, Lahore Dates: September 15th to 18st 2021.

Venue: Istanbul, Turkey.

Venue: Expo Centre, Lahore.

Heimtextil 2021 Dates: May 4th to 7th 2021.

Index 2021

Venue: Frankfurt am Main, Germany.

Dates: September 7th to 10th, 2021.

ITM 2022

Venue: Palexpo, Geneva, Switzerland

Dates: June 14th to 18th, 2022. Venue: Istanbul, Turkey.

DOMOTEX HANNOVER 2021 Dates: May 18th to 20th 2021. Venue: Hannover, Germany.

Textile Asia 2021, Lahore Dates: October 22th to 24th 2021. Venue: Expo Centre, Lahore.

Textile Asia 2022, Karachi Dates: March 26th to 28th 2022. Venue: Expo Centre, Karachi.

ITMA 2023 Dates: June 8th to 14th, 2023. Venue: Milan, Italy.

ITMA ASIA + CITME 2021 Dates: June 12th to 16th, 2021. Venue: NECC, Shanghai, China.

INTEX SOUTH ASIA 2021 Dates: July 7th to 9th 2021. Venue: Colombo, SriLanka.

IGATEX Pakistan 2021, Lahore Dates: September 15th to 18st 2021. Venue: Expo Centre, Lahore.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2021

Pool them..

Founded in 1951 by Mazhar Yusuf (1924-2009) Vol. LXX No. 03 March 2021

Publisher Nadeem Mazhar

Rs. 450.00

EDITOR’S PAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 Value added textile exports must retain the growth momentum

Editor in Chief Amina Baqai

TEXTILE BRIEFS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Associate Editor Dr. Noor Ahmed Memon

NEWS & VIEWS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Production Manager Mazhar Ali

AROUND THE WORLD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Hony-Editorial Board

CORPORATE NEWS

Dr. Hafizur Rehman Sheikh

Seamless chic swimsuit demonstrates the performance of RASCHELTRONIC® . . .18 Picanol Group acquires minority stake in Rieter Holding Ag . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19

Ph.D (UK) F.T.I. (UK)

Syed Mahfooz Qutab

C.TEX, F.T.I (U.K), B.Sc. Fellow I.C.T.T Atlanta, GA; (USA)

Mian Iftkhar Afzal B.S.N.C State, M.Sc. (Leeds) C.TEXT.F.T.I (UK)

Dr. Zubair Bandukda PhD (Textiles), CText ATI

Editorial & Advertising Office B-4, 2nd Floor, 64/21, M.A.C.H, Miran M. Shah Road, Karachi - Pakistan Tel: +92-21-34311674-5 Fax: +92-21-34533616 Email: info@ptj.com.pk URL: http://www.ptj.com.pk

PTJ Europe Ltd. Correspondence & Mailing address: PTJ Europe Ltd. 93 Fleming Place, Bracknell, RG12 2GN, United Kingdom Tel: +44 792 2228 721 Registered Office: Dairy House, Money Row Green, Holyport, Maidenhead, Berkshire, SL6 2ND, UK Registered no. 09141989

PERSONALIA Change in the Board of Directors of Rieter Holding AG . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 Christian Straubhaar – New Head of Sales at Rieter Machines & Systems . . . . . .20 Gerald Vogt as new CEO of the Stäubli Group . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21

FAIRS AND EXHIBITIONS Online visitor registration commences for ITMA ASIA + CITME combined exhibition . .22

Available on Gale and Factiva affiliated international databases through Asianet Pakistan

Printed at: Color Plus Korangi, Karachi. Published by Nadeem Mazhar from D-16, K.D.A. Scheme No.1. Karachi.

EVENTS CECA conducted skill training under University-Industry Linkage Program . . . . .24

48 36 FEATURES Asia Pacific Rayon to ramp up viscose fibre production to meet market demand . .26 The Montex®Coat ticks all the right boxes for coating success in 2021 . . . . . . .28

SWISS REVIEW

Swiss machinery manufacturers lead in global innovation & technology . . . . . .30 Bilateral relations Switzerland–Pakistan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33 by Prof. Dr. Noor Ahmed Memon, Associate Editor, Pakistan Textile Journal.

“We are hopeful and reasonably confident that textile business will flourish with the present boom.” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 Interview: Mujtaba Rahim, President and CEO, Archroma Pakistan Limited.

Archroma and Jeanologia join forces to launch ‘PAD-OX G2 COLD’, a new Water-Saving Dyeing Process for Denim and Casual Wear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Archroma celebrates 3 years of working with aniline-free(1) Indigo heroes . . . .40 Archroma Awards and achievements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Rieter: Ring and Rotor Spinning of Recycled Fibers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44

Jakob Müller AG : Best in class in narrow fabrics weaving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 Benninger Machines and systems for textile finishing solutions . . . . . . . . . . . .48 Retech Godet rolls made to meet topmost expectations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 EspriTech specializes in automated textile folding machinery . . . . . . . . . . . . .51 Santex presents ground-breaking stenter, combines top performance . . . . . . .52 ROTORCRAFT offers NGD Next Generation Drafting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53 SSM offers Air-Covering Process for Spinning Corespun Yarns with a Dual Core .54 Swiss weaving machinery manufacturers at forefront of novel applications . . . .56 New Uster Quantum 4.0 yarn clearer offers spinners the best of both worlds . .58 Partnership extends vision for yarn contamination detection . . . . . . . . . . . . .60 Graf AG offers card clothing with up to 30% longer lifetime . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62 BRÄCKER traveller with up to 50% longer lifetime and shorter running-in period . .62

EDITOR’S PAGE

Value added textile exports must retain the growth momentum The value-added exports of knitwear and bedwear fell 13% and 1.2% year-on-year, respectively. The downtrend was mainly due to the downbeat value-added sector that is a key to drive exports growth. In February, basic textiles exports – cotton yarn, cotton cloth, noncotton yarn, and raw cotton increased 13% month-on-month. However, the value-added

Established 1951 March 2021

Swiss Review

sector and other textiles witnessed a decline of 11% and 10%, respectively. The exports declined 6.7% in dollar terms and 7.3% in rupees term while cotton yarn increased 40% month-on-month to $120 million. This increase in raw material exports is indicative of the post covid recovery of competing economies. The value-added sector is demanding a moratorium on yarn exports as without an abundant supply of local raw material, enhanced export targets cannot be met. Within the value-added segment, knitwear, bedwear, towel and ready-made declined 10%, 7%, 11% and 15% respectively in February 2021 as compared with January 2021. The value-added sector for the first eight months of March 2021

2020-2021 witnessed an increase of 12% to $6.9 billion. While there is a decline in exports of value-added textiles, a major part of exports remain in this higher quality and better-priced segment led by the knitwear sector and followed by readymade garments bedwear and towels. The momentum gained by the textile exporters in making inroads in established and new markets must continue. The current issue as in the past is devoted to Switzerland. The highlight of the issue is a special report on Archroma Pakistan, the global chemical leader from Switzerland that continues making waves through innovative developments such as Aniline free denim that are contributing significantly to the global sustainability initiative. Mr Mujtaba Rahim, the Managing Director and CEO of Archroma Pakistan shares his views on how Pakistan can help retain the edge in value-added textiles achieved through hard work and perseverance.

Textile Exports February 2021 (000 US$) Knitwear Readymade Garments Bedwear Cotton Cloth Cotton Cloth Towels Made-up articles Other Textile Materials Synthetic Textiles Tents Canvas & Tarpaulin Yarn other than Cotton 0

50000

100000

150000

200000

250000

300000

Textile Briefs National

The cotton production in Pakistan has plunged 34% to 5.57 million bales (of 155 kg per bale) in the current fiscal year 202021 compared to the same period of last year. This output was in line with the full-year production estimated at a four-decade low in the ongoing year.

The Chinese Ambassador to Pakistan Nong Rong has said that the startling success of Challenge Textile Factory with the Chinese investment of $60 million has paved the way for numerous investments under CPEC.

Pakistan Readymade Garments Manufacturers & Exporters Association

(PRGMEA) has called for the final approval of the new textile policy 2020-25 by the Economic Coordination Committee (ECC) of the Cabinet as it is vital for new investment and marketing plan in this major export-oriented sector. The July-February figures showed that growth in textile and clothing exports came from the value-added sector. The value of exports reached US$ 9.99 billion in the July-Feb period this year as against US$ 9.37 billion over the corresponding months of last year, showing a growth of 6.69%.

Exporters are demanding that the textile industry should

be provided electricity at 7.5 cents per unit for five years and the subsidy issue should be resolved between the Power Division, Petroleum Division and Finance Division but not through additional DLTL on gas and electricity. The Khyber Pakhtunkhwa Textile Mills Association (KPTMA) has rejected the decision of the federal cabinet committee on energy (CCoE) to place a moratorium on the supply of gas to textile units for selfgeneration of electricity.

The government has withdrawn a 5% regulatory duty (RD) on the import of cotton yarn. The Federation of Pakistan Chambers of Commerce and

Industry (FPCCI) said the move would greatly support the textile sector and contribute to economic stability. German Consul General Holger Ziegeler has advised Pakistan to pivot from traditional exports and promote high valueaddition by utilising human capital and developing industries.

Sapphire Textile Mills and Britain-based Carrington Textiles have formed a joint venture in Pakistan – Carrington Textiles International, with new textile dyeing and finishing operations in Lahore that would provide up to 20 million meters a year of dyed and grey fabric.

Textile Briefs International

The Australian cotton industry is seeking to substitute in South East Asia its 611 million Australian dollars cotton trade to China. Australia’s cotton industry is entirely dependent on exports and China is one of the country’s main markets. The cotton industry is one of Australia’s most important contributors to the agricultural sector, with yearly exports worth around US$ 2 billion.

One of the leading apparel manufacturers in Bangladesh, Maksons Group is going to set up three industrial units at the Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujib Shilpa Nagar (BSMSN) in Mirsarai at a combined investment of US$ 111 million.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2021

The US companies are ready to offer expertise and systems, including those to reduce congestion and boost efficiency, to improve the infrastructure at the Chittagong Port, according to the US Embassy in Dhaka JoAnne Wagner.

Being Europe’s largest producer of cotton with more than 45,000 registered cotton farmers Greece is going to promote more sustainable Greek cotton as “Better Cotton” from the 2020-21 cotton season.

China´s export growth spiked to the highest of 60.6% in over two decades on-year in the January-February period, well above analysts´ expectations, while imports rose 22.2%.

The Southern India Mills’ Association (SIMA) has appealed to the Prime Minister for withdrawal of the 10% import duty on raw cotton that was previously allowed to be imported duty free.

Being Europe’s largest producer of cotton with more than 45,000 registered cotton farmers Greece is going to promote more sustainable Greek cotton cultivation. Which makes them able to sell their cotton as Better Cotton from the 202021 cotton season.

The Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI), the apex association of the apparel industry of the country has hailed the announcement on setting up of seven mega textile parks in the Union Budget.

4 5

7 8

More efforts have been made in South Africa to localise the production of personal protective equipment (PPE) to boost the retail, clothing, textile, footwear and leather (RCTFL) sectors in light of the devastating effects of the COVID-19.

Vietnam textilegarment exports set to fall 15% to US$ 34 billion Exports to the US and European markets will continue to face difficulties due to a shortage of orders, according to Vietnam’s Ministry of industry and trade, which recently said in a report that the 15% decrease in exports is, however, still lower than the 20%-25% plunge in global demand this year. 

News & Views

Industry decries the absence of policy to boost cotton output The textile industry has termed it unfortunate that no concrete policy to enhance cotton production has been announced by the government while the price of cotton has soared to an 11-year high of Rs12,000 per maund. Pakistan Hosiery Manufacturers and Exporters Association (PHMA) Zonal Chairman Faisal Mehboob Sheikh and Chief Coordinator Adil Butt noted that Pakistan was expected to produce 5.6 million bales of cotton in the current season, which would be the lowest in the last 30 years. On the other hand, demand from the textile industry stood at 18 million bales, hence, over 8 million bales worth $4 billion had to be imported, they pointed out. According to Sheikh, the reason behind the unprecedented increase in cotton prices was the steep decline in its production and bullish trend in the international market. He appealed to Prime Minister Imran Khan to immediately formulate a strategy to overcome the cotton yarn crisis so that

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2021

thousands of workers could continue to work in the largest export-oriented industry of Pakistan.

Exporters, spinners spar over yarn imports from India While the value-added sector terms the situation as a crisis, spinners insist a false picture is being presented. “As per Customs data, yarn is already being imported from 59 countries,” Chairman of the All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (Aptma) Sindh-Balochistan Asif Inam said. “India’s hostile attitude towards Pakistani products is worrying,” the Aptma representative said. “The data is strangely fabricated to portray a doom and gloom scenario. There was a slight decline in exports when comparing exports of 28 days of Feb 2021 with 29 days in the same month last year (2020 was a leap year),” he added. The seven-month data (7MFY21) shows that Pakistan has already imported cotton worth $1.336 billion. The massive imports highlight the cotton shortage in the country, with production at its record lowest level. Mr. Inam said the government should not allow imports of cotton yarn or cotton from

India until the “country goes for trade normalization with Pakistan”. “The value-added garment and home-textile industries are facing jeopardy in the wake of unavailability of cotton yarn and abrupt decrease in the value of rupee against the dollar,” said Pakistan Apparel Forum Chairman Jawed Bilwani. “During the past three months, cotton yarn 30/1 prices have been increased by 15pc while it is not available in the market,” he said. In the last six months, the dollar has also depreciated against the Pak rupee by 5.58pc — down from Rs166.5 to Rs157.2. Exporters previously had negotiated and finalized their export orders at a dollar rate of Rs166.5, Mr. Bilwani said. The fortnightly report of the Pakistan Cotton Ginners Association shows that 72,000 bales of cotton were sold to exporters. “Cotton prices are high in the market while arrival for this year is almost over. There is a need to import more cotton but more important there is a need for a policy to improve cotton growth with high-quality seeds and increased cultivation area,” said Karachi Cotton Brokers Forum Chairman Nasim Usman.

Chinese envoy visits Challenge Textile Factory Chinese Ambassador to Pakistan Nong Rong has said that the startling success of Challenge Textile Factory with the Chinese investment of $60 million has paved the way for numerous investments under CPEC. He expressed these views during his visit to $60 million Challenge Textile Factory on Lahore-Multan Road where he was briefed by Karen Chen, managing director of the company. The ambassador said Pakistan and China are not only neighbours but also brothers and after CPEC, Pakistan has gained historical significance, as China now see many investment opportunities that will create thousands of jobs in Pakistan. More Chinese companies are ready to invest billions of dollars in various sectors in Pakistan, which will see an improvement in Pakistan’s economy. Rong said with the resumption of export of textile products from the factory, Pakistan’s foreign exchange reserves will also increase.

Later, the ambassador visited various sectors of the textile factory and appreciated the arrangements made. Chen briefed him on the investment in the textile sector. Employees have been provided with good pay, as well as transport, food and accommodation, he said, adding that after the $60 million Chinese investment, the group will now invest another $150 million in textiles. In Phase one in only eight months, they have been able to establish a 370,000 square feet stitching facility that houses 4000 employees. Through this new facility, their exports are already going up to $70 million from $45 million last year, and are estimated to go up to $100 million next year if work continues at this rate. The group deals mostly in outdoor and sports apparel, and has been in the technical circular knit business for two decades, starting out in 2001. In China, they have been declared one of top three most innovative companies in the textile industry because of their creative product lines. China’s ministry of industry and information technology has also declared them one of the four most sustainable companies in the textile industry.

News & Views Duty-free yarn imports demanded to save textile exports

highest foreign exchange and supports approximately 40 allied industries. Zubair Motiwala and Jawed Bilwani said 4.5 percent decrease in exports endorses the viewpoint of exporters that unavailability of cotton yarn would hurt the export orders, which will further be diverted to other competing countries if the cotton yarn is not made available in the required quantity.

Value-added textile exporters have urged the government to allow duty-free import of cotton yarn to reverse downtrend in exports. Addressing a news conference, representatives of Council of All Pakistan Textile Association and Pakistan Apparel Forum said they have been drawing the attention of the government, through appeals and press statements, towards unavailability and shortage of cotton yarn – which is the basic raw material – for the last five months. If cotton yarn’s duty-free import is not allowed, exporters will go for

Mohammad Zubair Motiwala

countrywide protests, they said without elaborating whether or not protest implies shutdown of factories. Value-added textile contributes to around 62 percent in total exports, provides 42 percent urban employment particularly to female workforce, earns

Exports fell 4.5 percent year-on-year to $2 billion in February after maintaining the growth pace for five months. They cautioned the government about the dire consequences of not allowing duty-free import of cotton yarn and not banning export of cotton yarn to save the exports, industries and employment.

Sapphire forms JV with Britain-based Carrington Textiles Sapphire Textile Mills and Britainbased Carrington Textiles have formed a joint venture in Pakistan – Carrington Textiles International, with new textile dyeing and finishing operations in Lahore that would provide up to 20 million meters a year of dyed and white fabric. “Sapphire Textile Mills has agreed to form a Joint Venture (JV) with Carrington Textiles, a British company. Both the companies will combine their strength in manufacturing, marketing and research and development to bring value to the customers. The JV will be formed in United Kingdom,” a bourse filing said. Carrington Textiles noted in a statement that a new production facility, now in operation, had some of the most

is an excellent project we are excited to be part of, and we are pleased our longstanding relationship with Carrington Textiles has developed into this joint venture.” modern European dyeing and finishing plant and machinery, which would further enhance the capabilities of the JV. “With the closeness to Sapphire’s existing spinning and weaving operations, as well as to other existing local suppliers, this adds to the ability of Carrington Textiles International to provide a vertically integrated manufacturing solution, reducing lead times and further enhancing service to customers. Finished stock will be warehoused in Lahore, Asia and the South African port of Durban, ensuring the best possible service to all major markets.” This new venture with Sapphire Textile Mills would increase Carrington’s capacity to 130 million square meters a year. It is the start of a series of investments that Carrington Textiles’ parent company, the RTS Group, is implementing across the rest of its production facilities.

Nabeel Abdullah, Sapphire’s COO.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2021

Nabeel Abdullah, Sapphire’s COO says, “Carrington Textiles International

Carrington Textiles’ CEO John Vareldzis said, “Following years of working closely with Sapphire as one of our strategic loomstate suppliers, we have made the next logical step together and invested in a new state of the art dyeing and finishing factory in Lahore.” He said this not only gave Carrington its own European engineered manufacturing plant in Asia, but also would provide access to a vertical operation, from spinning through to weaving, dyeing and finishing. “All of the dyeing and finishing machinery has been specified by our technical experts to meet the exacting standards of the work-wear market and we are confident this integration of our supply chains will help to give our customers the best chance to succeed in a challenging and exciting market,” he added. Carrington is the largest producer of work-wear fabrics in the UK, exporting to more than 80 countries worldwide. Carrington produces over 55 million meters of fabric annually.

News & Views Decision to suspend gas supply to textile mills rejected The Khyber Pakhtunkhwa Textile Mills Association (KPTMA) has rejected the decision of the federal cabinet committee on energy (CCoE) to place moratorium on the supply of gas to textile units for self-generation of electricity. The decision was made at a meeting recently with Salim Saifullah Khan in the chair. The meeting rejected the CCoE decision to curtail the supply of gas to the export-oriented textile industry and divert the gas supply to the IPPs for power generation. Salim Saifullah.

The KPTMA urged Chief Minister Mahmood Khan, the federal energy minister, the PM’s special assistant, the chief minister’s adviser on energy & power and the provincial chief secretary to intervene to resolve the issue. The association also stressed the need for taking up the issue with the Council of Common Interest. Briefing media persons after the meeting, Salim Saifullah showed his serious concerns over the adverse effects of the decision on textile industry, and asked government to review it. He urged the Khyber Pakhtunkhwa government to intervene in the matter, otherwise the mills would close down their operations, and large scale workers would lose jobs.

Germany advises Pakistan to learn from neighbours for exports German Consul General Holger Ziegeler has advised Pakistan to pivot from traditional exports and promote high value-addition by utilising human capital and developing industries. In a recent meeting he said Pakistan has been sending mostly textile, leather and some other products to Germany. It must make good use of human capital, develop industries and produce highvalue products for more exports to Germany and other countries, he said. “You must look at the region and see how your competitors like Bangladesh and others have improved their exports to Germany and other countries,” Ziegeler said during a meeting with the officials of the Karachi Chamber of Commerce and Industry (KCCI). “Pakistani exporters should not confine to producing raw material or semi-finished goods for exports but they must also be able to produce all classes of the entire value-chain of not just textile sector but other sectors as well,” he said. “We are also suffering right now from the absence of trade fairs and limited possibilities of travelling. “Joint ventures between the business communities of Germany and Pakistan are possible as soon as we start visiting

again. We have to deal with the first step which is the fear of entering into Pakistan due to security concerns. I will try my best to bring German businessmen and once they are here, it’s your game to make them partners.” Prior to assuming charge as Consul General in Karachi, he served as Consul General in Jeddah for four years and before that he was head of Export Promotion at the ministry of foreign affairs in Berlin and then preferred to get posted in Karachi because of the economic importance of the port city and because of the potential this city has for development of bilateral trade with Germany. KCCI President Shariq Vohra stressed the need for joint ventures in agricultural and automotive sectors. Most of the agricultural products being harvested in Germany are also farmed in Pakistan. German business community must come forward, improve ties and explore investment opportunities in Pakistan. “Unfortunately, we have not been able to take advantage of what is being offered which is something that needs special attention,” Vohra said. He also appreciated Germany’s constant support to Pakistan in the form of aids and grants for various socioeconomic development projects and also the vocational training initiatives which helped a lot in further improving the skills of Pakistani workforce and proved favorable for the economy.

He warned the government that such unsolicited decision would result in high cost of production, unemployment, loss of investment and decline in export of textile products. He further said it would also be a challenge for the government to provide uninterrupted electricity to the industry as available grid stations were already overloaded. Mr Saifullah said shifting of manufacturing units to Wapda electricity was also not possible on such short notice. He suggested the government in consultation with stakeholders devise some workable plan if implementation of the decision was necessary.

AUSTRALIA Australia seeks alternative market for its cotton in South East Asia The China and Australia relationship continues to worsen, after year-long rhetoric of indirect allegations, declining common trust and repressed trade agreements. The Australian cotton industry is seeking to substitute in South East Asia its 611 million Australian dollars cotton trade to China. Australia’s cotton industry is entirely dependent on exports and China is one of the country’s main markets. The cotton industry is one of Australia’s most important contributors to the agricultural sector, with yearly exports worth around US$ 2 billion. Australia is one of the world’s top four cotton exporters, competing in a deeply subsidized international market. In a recent opinion piece for ‘Queensland Country Life’, Michael O'Reilly, chairman, Chairman, Australian Cotton Shippers Association, says that the industry needs to move on, which “means reviving established markets and

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2021

growing markets where consumption of Australian cotton is smaller.” Australian cotton earned its reputation as a reliable supplier of highquality fibre in the tradition markets such as South Korea, Japan, Indonesia and Vietnam. Unlike China, India, or Pakistan, these traditional markets for Australian cotton do not have any source of local production, making them completely dependent on imported cotton. Japan and South Korea remain significant purchasers of Australian cotton, according to O’Reilley, even if they have seen their respective spinning companies relocated to other more competitive markets including Indonesia, China and Vietnam.

BANGLADESH Maksons invests US$ 111 million in Bangabandhu economic zone One of the leading apparel manufacturers in Bangladesh, Maksons Group is going to set up three industrial units at the Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujib Shilpa Nagar (BSMSN) in Mirsarai at a combined investment of US$ 111 million. Mohammad Ali Khokon, Managing Director of Maksons Group and three other concerns under the group, signed a land-lease agreement with the Bangladesh Economic Zones Authority (Beza) in Dhaka to establish the units on 30 acres of land by 2022.

Though the number of spinning companies in Indonesia and Thailand demanding Australian cotton has declined since the late 1990s, these markets still recognize and appreciate Australian cotton’s quality.

Metro Spinning Ltd will invest US$ 40 million and create jobs for 1,200 people. Maksons Spinning Mills Ltd. will invest US$ 30 million to create 800 jobs. Also, another unit of the Group will invest US$ 41 million.

Australian cotton must compete with Brazil and US cotton not only in Indonesia but also in Vietnam, another potential expansion market.

Maksons Group will produce fabric and export-oriented apparel items at the proposed industrial units. The group has a target to start production by 2022.

US ready to help improve Chittagong Port infrastructure The US companies are ready to offer expertise and systems, including those to reduce congestion and boost efficiency, to improve the infrastructure at the Chittagong Port, according to the US Embassy in Dhaka JoAnne Wagner. Wagner said the US Trade and Development Agency is eager to support infrastructure projects in high-growth emerging markets such as Bangladesh with feasibility studies, technical assistance and pilot projects. Wagner visited Chittagong recently to support the robust economic partnership between Bangladesh and the United States. She discussed expansion plans for the Chittagong Port, including opportunities for participation by US companies; engaged with female entrepreneurs pursuing successful businesses and overcoming gender discrimination; and explored further opportunities with the operators of Pahartali Textile and Hosiery Mills for using US-grown cotton.

CHINA China exports rise to highest in two decades after coronavirus hit With imports sharply bouncing back from the coronavirus outbreak, China´s export growth spiked to the highest in over two decades. Exports spiked 60.6% on-year in the JanuaryFebruary period, well above analysts´ expectations, while imports rose 22.2%. The latest figures stand in stark contrast to last year´s fall of around 17% in exports and 4% drop in imports. The country struggled to contain the spread of Covid-19 early on, with consumers staying home and businesses seeing a slow return to operations. Electronics and textile exports such as masks contributed to the spike in outbound shipments, as demand for work-from-home supplies and protective gear against the virus outbreak soared during the pandemic.

EGYPT Absence of indicative price affects cotton sowing in Egypt The Egyptian government has been announcing an indicative price for buying cotton before the planting season commenced every year in the past. However, for the first time, the government had not announced indicative prices in the current year. This has affected cotton cultivation in 2020-21, which is expected to decline 35% to 65,000 hectares.

cotton and cotton waste which is currently under nil rate of import duty is being subjected to 10% import duty through the budgetary announcement comprising of 5% Basic Customs Duty and another 5% Agriculture Infrastructure and Development Cess (AIDC) on cotton and 10% BCD on cotton waste. The new import duty comes into effect from February 2, 2021. This has come as a severe blow for the ailing cotton textiles and apparel industry, said SIMA chairman Ashwin Chandran.

The indicative price was a subtle attempt by the Egyptian government to urge the textile industry to buy cotton from farmers at the indicative price, However, it was not priced support or commitment from the government to buy the crop.In MY 2020-21, the total cotton area harvested in Egypt is expected to decrease by approximately 35% to 65,000 hectares (ha), from 100,000 ha in MY 2019-20. The low cotton prices were another reason for farmers sowing less cotton. In MY 2019-10, price averages were US$ 133 per 50 kg of lint cotton to US$ 146 per 50 kg of lint cotton for extra-long varieties and US$ 120 per 50 kg of lint cotton to US$ 133 per 50 kg of lint cotton for long-medium staple cotton. In MY 2020-21, cotton consumption of Egypt is expected to plunge by 5,000 bales to 6,25,000 bales, a drop of 1% over last year attributed to lower domestic demand due to a decrease in demand from public spinners.

GREECE Greece has entered into ‘The Better Cotton’ era The Better Cotton Standard System has decided that the Greek AGRO-2 Integrated Management Standards will equally run with the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI)’s Better Cotton Standard System (BCSS). Being Europe’s largest producer of cotton with more than 45,000 registered cotton farmers Greece is going to

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2021

promote more sustainable Greek cotton cultivation allowing them to sell their cotton as Better Cotton from the 202021 cotton season. By the end of 2022, it is estimated that 5,000 farmers will grow AGRO-2 licensed cotton (equivalent to Better Cotton), on 270,000 hectares, producing around 185,000 bales covering 10% of the total agricultural land. The Greek cotton producer complies for several years with high environmental and social ISCC (International Sustainability & Carbon Certification) to achieve a reduction in water and pesticide use while increasing yields and profits. Because thirteen of the world’s biggest clothing and textile companies signed a pledge to source 100% sustainable cotton by 2025 in a deal brokered by the UK’s Prince of Wales.

INDIA SIMA appeals for withdrawal of import duty on cotton Stating that the imposition of 10% import duty on cotton is a severe blow for the cotton textile value chain, the Southern India Mills’ Association (SIMA) has appealed to the Prime Minister for withdrawal of the duty. However, it has hailed the announcement of MITRA scheme aiming at developing seven mega textile parks with plug and play facility. India has been globally competitive only in the cotton textile manufacturing, thereby accounting for 80% of its total exports. As per Union Budget 2021-22,

He appealed to the Prime Minister to immediately withdraw the levy of 10% import duty on cotton and cotton waste to sustain the global competitiveness of Indian textiles and apparel industry and prevent job losses for several lakhs of people, prevent fall in the exports and also curb cheaper imports of value-added products from the SAFTA countries like Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, etc.

Seven mega textiles parks highlight of Budget The announcement on setting up of seven mega textiles parks is the highlight of the Union Budget 2021-22, directly impacting the textile industry according to The Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI), the apex association of the apparel industry of the country. Several announcements impacting consumer spending will also help the apparel sector. The increase of import duty on cotton and cotton fibre may not impact the industry too adversely, since the current imports are at a miniscule level. However, this does come at a time when the industry is reeling from an unprecedented increase of raw material prices, especially yarn, and could send a wrong signal. In an indirect manner though, the Budget has made several announcements which will have a positive impact on consumer spending such as increases in infrastructure and overall government expenditure – and this will help the industry, especially the apparel sector. The textile industry welcomed the Union Budget presented by Finance Minister Nirmala Seetharaman, particularly the announcement on textile and apparel parks. In a statement, the Indian Texpreneurs Federation (ITF) appreciated the thrust given to the textile

Around the World sector by proposing the seven mega integrated textile region and apparel parks (MITRA). With the concept of the parks with a plug-and-play model, the textile and apparel sector, particularly the SMEs (small and medium enterprises), can build competitiveness in manufacturing, ITF convenor Prabhu Dhamodharan said in the statement. Further, the parks can be aligned with environmental, social and governance goals to attract international buyers as well as investors, he said. Welcoming the budget, president of Tirupur Exporters Association Raja M Shanmugham termed it as a pragmatic one presented to address all issues in the sectors. While appreciating the parks scheme, he said as expected, this would create global champions in exports and was hopeful that Tirupur exporters would opt to set up the units in the parks. He thanked the government for allotting Rs 700 crore for the Amended Technology Upgradation Scheme (ATUFs) against Rs 545 crore in the last budget which, he said, would help clear the pending capital subsidy.

SOUTH AFRICA SA minimising COVID-19 impact on textile-apparel More efforts have been made to localise production of personal protective

equipment (PPE) to boost the retail, clothing, textile, footwear and leather (RCTFL) sectors in light of the devastating effects of the COVID-19. South African Deputy Minister of Trade, Industry and Competition Fikile Majola informed about these efforts to parliament’s select committee on trade and industry, economic development, small business development, tourism, employment and labour. He said government is committed to reviving the sector as it focuses on rebuilding manufacturing and to enable it to expand its capacity. He mentioned that the government is working towards significantly reducing illegal imports to eliminate unfair competition against local retailers and manufacturers. The R-CTFL value chain’s total gross domestic product contribution is R74 billion, while its employment contribution is more than 210 000. The R-CTFL Master Plan was signed in 2019 with seven commitments. These include growing the domestic market, driving domestic sourcing, ending illegal imports and value chain transformation. During this period of the pandemic specific focus has been placed on intensifying support for products such as surgical and consumer masks, respirators, medical textiles, leather and footwear products, gloves and body bags, according to a press release from the department of trade, industry and competition (DTIC).

VIETNAM Vietnam textile-garment exports set to fall 15% to US$ 34 billion Exports to the US and European markets will continue to face difficulties due to a shortage of orders, according to Vietnam’s ministry of industry and trade, which recently said in a report that the 15% decrease in exports is, however, still lower than the 20%-25% plunge in global demand this year. Many companies expect new trade pacts will help boost exports. Domestic companies have been making efforts to pump up revenue by producing low-value products to ensure cash flow, according to Vietnamese media reports. HCMC-based Dony Garment is focusing on small orders, including those of masks, whose price is 5%-10% of other products made before the pandemic. The company’s revenues in the first 11 months actually surged 2.7 times year-on-year because of masks. Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association (VITAS) chairman Vu Duc Giang said the recently-signed Regional Comprehensive Economic Partnership (RCEP) is likely to boost China’s demand for garments made in Vietnam.

Corporate News

Seamless chic swimsuit demonstrates the performance of the new RASCHELTRONIC® Sunny prospects with the RJ 5/1 N.

Now stylish swimwear from KARL MAYER’s Textile Product Development department shows the potential of this five-bar newcomer.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2021

KARL MAYER is continually adapting its RASCHELTRONIC® range to the needs of the market. With adjusted performance profiles, the efficient raschel

machines are intended to give customers the edge in their usually dynamic business fields.

It was only at the end of last year that the manufacturer launched a highly productive model, the RJ 5/1 N, which sets trends in the production of chic lingerie articles and inelastic, lacelike fabrics. Now stylish swimwear from KARL MAYER’s Textile Product Development department shows the potential of this five-bar newcomer. The RJ 5/1 N can be used to produce typical RSJ articles, such as locknit produced with three guide bars, SpotNet qualities and elastic or rigid Powernet qualities, and to create effective seamless constructions. Front and back parts are produced directly on the machine, into which opaque areas and open pattern parts are alternately incorporated as required, and even lettering is seamlessly incorporated. Appropriately designed leg, neck and back cut-outs can also be integrated and do not require seams thanks to the free-cut design. Only the side seams need to be closed as part of the confectioning process. However, it is not only the making up that is efficient, but also the textile production itself. The RJ 5/1 N reaches a maximum speed of 1,100 rpm and is therefore just as fast as the previous five-bar RASCHELTRONIC®, the RSJ 5/1. The finished fabric for the swimsuit developed by KARL MAYER was produced at a speed of 12.8 m/h. Like the RSJ 5/1, the new raschel machine also works with four ground bars and one split jacquard bar. The patterning is done by a standard N gear. It is also offered in gauges E 28 and E 32. However, the RJ 5/1 N, which is produced at KARL MAYER (CHINA), is superior to the established model in terms of its price performance ratio. “The RJ 5/1 N is up to 60% better than the RSJ 5/1 in terms of investment per production. We expect that it will become established with customers in the five-bar RASCHELTRONIC® sector,” says Sascha Müller, Product Owner Local Lace & Raschel at KARL MAYER.

Picanol Group acquires minority stake in Rieter Holding Ag Picanol Group has acquired a minority stake in Rieter Holding AG (SWX: RIEN), amounting to a total of 467,236 shares for a price of 45.4 million EUR (or a price per share of 107.5 CHF). Rieter is the world’s leading supplier of systems for short-staple fiber spinning. The company develops and manufactures machinery, systems and components used to convert natural and man-made fibers into yarns.

As a result of the transaction, Picanol Group is now holding 10% of the share capital of Rieter Holding AG. With the financial participation in Rieter Holding AG, Picanol Group wants to further diversify its activities in the textile industry and secure a stable shareholding for Rieter Holding AG in the long term. Financial Calendar: Picanol Group will announce its financial results for 2020 on March 25, 2021 (before opening of the stock exchange).

Personalia

Change in the Board of Directors of Rieter Holding AG Michael Pieper, a member of the Board of Directors of Rieter Holding AG since 2009, has informed Rieter that Artemis Beteiligungen I AG has sold its 11.5% block of shares to the Picanol Group (Picanol NV), Belgium, and that he thus will not stand for re-election at the Annual General Meeting on April 15, 2021. Michael Pieper has supported and helped to significantly shape the development of Rieter for more than ten years. He joined Rieter as a major shareholder in 2008, and since then has been strongly involved in the strategic realignment of the group. “On behalf of the Rieter Group, I extend our sincere gratitude to Michael Pieper for his extremely successful and valuable work on the Board of Directors and, above all, for his commitment as a long-term major shareholder,” said Bernhard Jucker, Chairman of the Board of Directors of Rieter Holding AG. The Board of Directors of Rieter

Holding AG today announced its intention to propose Stefaan Haspeslagh for election to the Board of Directors at the Annual General Meeting on April 15, 2021. Stefaan Haspeslagh (born 1958) holds a Master’s degree in Applied Economics from the University of Antwerp, Belgium. He has been Chairman of the Board of Directors and Chief Financial Officer of the Picanol Group (Picanol NV), Belgium, since 2010. In addition, Stefaan Haspeslagh has also been Chairman of the Board of Directors, Chief Operating Officer and Chief Financial Officer of the Tessenderlo Group NV, Belgium, since Michael Pieper, a member of the Board of 2014. As a director of Cellpack NV, Directors of Rieter Holding AG Belgium, he has been in office since the textile sector and is very well 2001. connected in the industry”, stated “Rieter welcomes the new major Bernhard Jucker, Chairman of the Board shareholder, Picanol NV. Luc Tack, of Directors. majority shareholder and CEO of Picanol, has been a member of the Board of Directors of Rieter for four years. Stefaan Haspeslagh is characterized by broad, international management experience in

All other current members of the Board of Directors will stand for reelection at the Annual General Meeting.

Christian Straubhaar – New Head of Sales at Rieter Machines & Systems Christian Straubhaar took on the position of Senior Vice President Sales at Rieter Machines & Systems in Winterthur on January 1, 2021. Straubhaar succeeded Reto Thom who retires this year. Christian Straubhaar holds an Engineering Master’s Degree in Industrial Management from the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology in Zurich (ETH) and is a sales executive with 20 years of extensive experience in the textile industry. Recently, Straubhaar was responsible as Group Sales & Marketing Director at Itema for the world-wide sales of

machines and spare parts. Prior, he held various positions in Operations and as Business Unit Head in Itema and other global textile companies. His professional career shows a solid track record in identifying new market potentials and growing the business for the company. Straubhaar has longstanding experience in selling to both large and small customers and developing key accounts within our industry. Reto Thom has very successfully led the Sales department at Rieter Machines & Systems for many years and made an enormous contribution to the success of the company. Christian Straubhaar.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2021

Personalia

Gerald Vogt as new CEO of the Stäubli Group Stäubli is one of the leaders in industrial and mechatronic solutions, is starting the new year with a new Chief Executive Officer. Gerald Vogt, previously responsible for the global business of the Robotics Division. He took charge as CEO from Rolf Strebel on January 1, 2021.

Gerald Vogt becomes new CEO of Stäubli Group.

With Gerald Vogt, an experienced manager from within the company's own ranks will take over the management of the diversified and growing family-owned company. The 50-year-old FrancoGerman engineer and business economist has been responsible for the global Robotics business as Group Division Manager since mid2016 and is already a member of the Group Management. When he joined Stäubli almost 20 years ago, Gerald Vogt initially moved from the development and production site in Faverges, France, to the US for several years. As Division Manager he significantly expanded business for Stäubli Robotics North America. Afterwards he returned to Faverges as Head of Development before taking over responsibility for the German business as Head of Stäubli Robotics in Bayreuth. To ensure a smooth transition and prepare for his future tasks as CEO, the Stäubli Board of Directors nominated Gerald Vogt as the designated successor to Rolf Strebel at the beginning of 2020. Since then, Gerald Vogt has accompanied the current

CEO and is responsible for the introduction and implementation of the new business strategy for Stäubli until 2030. "We are delighted to have found in Gerald Vogt a forward-looking manager with an extensive international experience and a clear entrepreneurial spirit who is already very well connected within the Group. He has our full confidence to further advance the business of the entire Stäubli Group worldwide," said Yves Serra,

Chairman of the Board of Directors. "On behalf of the entire Board of Directors and the Stäubli family, I would like to take this opportunity to thank Rolf Strebel for more than 40 years of dedication to Stäubli and his outstanding work as CEO of the Stäubli Group over the past 14 years. We wish him all the best for the time ahead," added Serra. Christophe Coulongeat will assume the global responsibility for the Robotics

Division on January 1, 2021. The French manager has been Deputy Division Manager since 2018 and previously gathered extensive experience in the packaging and automation industry in France, Austria, the United Arab Emirates and Switzerland. With this succession in management, Stäubli is setting the course to consistently pursue its growth and further expand its market position worldwide, especially in North America and Asia. 

Online visitor registration commences for ITMA ASIA + CITME exhibition Online visitor registration for ITMA Asia + CITME 2020 which will be held during 12 to 16 June 2021 at the National Exhibition and Convention Centre (NECC) in Shanghai is now open. Visitors who purchase their badge at www.itmaasia.com and www.citme.com.cn will enjoy special online rates. Early-bird rates available till 6 June are RMB 60 for a five-day badge and RMB 30 for a one-day badge. Standard onsite rates cost RMB 100 for a five-day badge and RMB 50 for a oneday badge. Visitors who register online will be also given access to the exhibition e-catalogue. The show owners and organisers are committed to working closely with the authorities, such as the Joint Prevention and Control Mechanism of the State Council and the Shanghai Convention and Exhibition Industries Association (SCEIA), to implement preventive and social distancing measures to enable the combined exhibition to be held safely.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2021

“We would like to assure that the safety of our participants, partners and staff during the exhibition is of utmost importance to us. Strict safety measures will be implemented onsite. Visitors should purchase their badge online to avoid onsite queues and allow better and smooth entry process,” urged Mr Ernesto Maurer, President of CEMATEX. “Taking into consideration the needs of the industry, we have decided to continue with the staging of the combined exhibition. Since the certificate of admission and stand details were issued last December, many exhibitors have responded positively to the news that the combined exhibition will be staged as planned,” said Mr Wang Shutian, Honorary President of China Textile Machinery Association (CTMA). He added, “The pandemic has created pent-up demand for quality machinery for sectors such as nonwovens and technical textiles as there was a lack of sales and marketing opportunities last year. Therefore, our

machinery manufacturers are eager to reconnect with the market.” Despite the ongoing Covid-19 challenge, the seventh edition of the combined exhibition is expected to feature a gross exhibition space of 170,000 square metres. To-date, it has attracted the participation of 1,500 exhibitors, including many established machinery manufacturers from 24 countries. ITMA ASIA + CITME is owned by CEMATEX and Chinese partners - the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT (CCPIT-Tex), China Textile Machinery Association (CTMA) and China Exhibition Centre Group Corporation (CIEC), and organised by Beijing Textile Machinery International Exhibition Co Ltd and co-organised by ITMA Services. Japan Textile Machinery Association is a special partner of the combined show. The last combined show in 2018 attracted 1,733 exhibitors from 28 economies and registered a visitorship of over 100,000 from 116 countries and regions.

Events

Imtiaz Rastgar.

CECA conducted skill training under UniversityIndustry Linkage Program

National Textile University Faisalabad established (CECA) Center of Excellence in Compressed Air for capacity building of Industry professionals as well as university faculty and students on Industrial Air Engineering and relevant topics in collaboration with the Asian Institute of Industrial Air. Participants from 19 different public and private sector organizations participated in one Day Professional Training Course on “Understanding of Compressed Air Systems” held on January 27, 2021. CECA, Centre of Excellence in Compressed Air training facility was inaugurated on 16th October 2020.

Compressed Air is the most important but least understood utility in the textile sector. Realizing the needs of this important knowledge, CECA organized a oneday Professional Certificate course on “Understanding of Compressed Air Systems”. Industry Expert trainers having a strong practical background in maintenance management of Industrial compressors provided an in-depth understanding of compressors and compressed air-related issues faced by the technical managers. CECA has published an annual training calendar for a series of the training program which will cover the complete domain of compressors and compressed air systems. The training calendar also includes the training programs related to manufacturing processes and other technologies.The next two days Professional Certificate training program scheduled in February will cover the topic of “Compressor Maintenance.”

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2021

Asia Pacific Rayon to ramp up viscose fibre production to meet market demand Asia Pacific Rayon (APR) plans to increase its production capacity to 600,000 tonnes to meet the strong growth potential of viscose staple fiber (VSF) and strengthen its market position in Indonesia and export markets across the region. The additional capacity will be achieved through improved optimisation and efficiencies, and by adding 300,000-tonne viscose production facility in Pangkalan Kerinci - Riau, Indonesia where APR is colocated with sister company and fiber supplier APRIL Group. The expansion will utilise APRIL’s current rayon grade AE pulp capacity from existing pulp production lines, with fiber supply sourced from APRIL’s existing responsibly managed renewable fiber plantations in compliance with internationally recognised forest certification standards and its sustainability policy and in keeping with the recently announced APRIL2030 commitments and targets. Construction of the additional APR production lines is scheduled to com-

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2021

mence in the second half of 2021 and will include features such as a chemical recovery process upgrade, slush-pulp processing installation and other investments aimed at reducing APR’s energy use and environmental footprint. Upon the additional lines’ completion in 2023, APR will be the world’s largest single-site integrated viscose manufacturing facility, seamlessly integrating dissolving wood pulp from APRIL’s renewable fiber plantations. “As a relatively new entrant in the VSF market, APR has established a strong market presence within two years with a growing network of customers in Bangladesh, India, Pakistan and Turkey. Our VSF business will continue to expand into the international markets by partnering with others in the textile value chain. With the advantage of economies of scale, we are committed to responding to customer demand for sustainable viscose with quality, differentiated product offerings, and competitive pricing,” said Sachin Malik, APR Sales Head. Formally inaugurated by Indonesia President Joko Widodo in February 2020, APR is a vertically integrated operation

from renewable fiber plantations to highvalue textile development, located in Riau, Sumatra. In the same year, Asia Pacific Yarn (APY) and Jakarta Fashion Hub (JFH) were established to respectively support yarn research and development, and promote fashion design talent and collaboration. APR ensures that dissolving wood pulp sources come from internationally recognised, credible forest certification systems such as PEFC™ which guarantee the wood fibre to be from sustainably managed forests and controlled sources. APR will continue to maintain 100% PEFC™ Chain of Custody certification for our viscose. APR’s products carry the labels MADE in GREEN by OEKO-TEX®, USDA Biobased, Seedling, OK biodegradable, and Medically Tested-Tested for Toxins by FKT. The company obtained ISO 9001 quality management and 14001 environmental management systems, and 45001 for occupational health and safety management systems. For further information: nauman_ilyas@asiafibre.com.

A recent Montex®Coat installation at a European mill.

The Montex®Coat ticks all the right boxes for coating success in 2021

Monforts Head of Technical Textiles Jürgen Hanel.

Flexibility, product uniformity and automation are the keys to success for coating businesses in today’s rapidly-changing technical textiles industry, explained Jürgen Hanel, Monforts Head of Technical Textiles, at the recent 1st World Congress on Textile Coating. Introducing the latest Montex®Coat magnetic roller coating option to virtual delegates from around the world at the conference organised by International Newsletters, Hanel explained why this technology makes perfect sense now “The magnetic roller system allows a wide range of coatings and finishes to be carried out, while being easy to handle for operators and much easier to clean at the end of the process.”

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2021

The touchscreen control of the Montex®Coat allows simple and easy adjustment of previously complicated settings.

Features He said. “It provides textile finishers with an expanded range of options due to the fully-adjustable positioning of the magnet within the roller and with four different magnet positions possible, can be set to operate both as a direct coating system and as an indirect coater.” With traditional dip coating systems, he added, as well as with many standard knife coating technologies, there is always a difference in the tension between the centre and the edges of the wide width fabrics being treated – and hence the amount of pressure with which the coating is applied. With the use of a magnetic roller, equal pressure is applied across the full width of the fabric, with consistent results even at wide widths of over 2.4 metres. In addition, adjusting the roller surface, rather than changing the coating formulation to match the required add-on and viscosity for each coating effect required, leads to much higher output from the line.

Cleaner and less wasteful The contribution of such flexible and resource-saving new technologies to a

cleaner and less wasteful textile industry was a key theme at the congress – held virtually across the four afternoons of February 11th, 12th, 18th and 19th – as was digitalization and the many advantages it is providing. “A typical integrated Monforts coating line is automated from the inlet feed to the winder,” Hanel told delegates. “Adjustments can also be made simply and easily from the touchscreen and with the new hand-held remote controller which has recently been introduced for the Montex®Coat unit.” Manual adjustment, he added, is time consuming and needs the attention of an experienced operator or the reproducibility will not be accurate between coating operations. The adjustment by motors allows each coating to be stored and downloaded again for 100% reproducibility. The motors can be fully controlled from the touchscreen and all necessary adjustments carried out remotely, making switching from one process to another extremely quick and easy.

The accuracy that is now being demanded by today’s most exacting customers is met with an optional carbon fibre roller – especially in dealing with the winding tension required in the processing of materials such as prepregs for composites and other heavyweight fabrics. Typical applications for the Montex®Coat include the finishing of tents and awnings, black-out roller blinds and sail cloth, automotive interior fabrics and medical disposables. Full PVC coatings, pigment dyeing or minimal application surface and low penetration treatments can all be accommodated. “The World Congress on Textile Coating was characterised by some very stimulating presentations and forums between the speakers and a global audience of textile specialists,” Jürgen Hanel concluded. “It truly reflected the high level of positive changes now taking place in not just textile coating, but the entire textile industry. I look forward to the next edition, which hopefully will be a face-to-face event for even deeper level discussions and debate.”

Stimulating forums between textile specialists took place at the 1st World Congress on Textile Coating.

Swiss machinery manufacturers lead in global innovation and technology

by Prof. Dr. Noor Ahmed Memon, Dadabhoy Institute of Higher Education / Associate Editor, Pakistan Textile Journal. The Swiss are known for innovation, quality and precision in this everchanging fast-paced world of manufacturing technology. Over the years, Swiss companies have introduced innovative ideas and developments that have forever changed the industrial environment in the country. At present Switzerland is the largest producer of textile machinery in the world and the competitors themselves consider its outstanding quality and innovative potential. With an estimated global market share of 33%, the Swiss play a leading role in the textile machinery world. Textile machines are the machines which mainly used in the fabrication and processing of fabrics, textiles, and other woven and nonwoven material. These machines used in processes such as spinning, weaving and dyeing. Textile equipment also used to manufacture dye and finish materials such as fiber, yarn,

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2021

and thread. It also used for the extrusion of non-woven synthetic fibre and various plastics. Swiss mechanical and electrical industry originated in textile machinery industry, now, textile machinery industry is still the mechanical and electrical industry is an important part of Switzerland.

Although Switzerland is a small landlocked country, it is the worldfamous textile machinery production power. Swiss production of textile machinery products and textile testing instrument to sophisticated technology, excellent quality and innovative potential is famous all over the world.

Table 1: Exports of Swiss Textile Machinery Exports (CHF million)

Exports ±(CHF %)

2015

1,064.3

-20.6%

2016

909.8

-14.5%

2017

880.7

-3.2%

2018

821.7

-6.7%

2019

694.0

-15.5%

2020

510.6

-26.4%

Year

Source: Swissmem.

Swiss Review Swiss textile machinery sector is founded on a strong innovative power and unmatched quality, as well as the creativity to solve customer challenges and focus on mutual success.

Of late, Swiss-based industries like mechanical and electrical have flourished worldwide, making Swiss-made products a well-known brand. As the country’s economy grew, so did the need for a strong system to cater to the needs of various sectors. This saw the emergence of two associations – the Swiss Association of Machinery Manufacturers (VSM) and the Association of Swiss Engineering Employees (ASM). Both of them are over 100 years old. Since 1999, the two were merged under one name, which saw the inception of Swissmem. Today, Swissmem comprises 26 subassociations, each catering to mechanical, electrical and metal industries. The textile division of Swissmem is one such association representing the entire spectrum of the textile industry of Switzerland. The rapid pace of technological innovations taking place in the textile machinery market resulted in the

Million CHF

The Swiss are known for innovation, quality and precision in this everchanging fast-paced world of manufacturing technology. Over the years, Swiss companies have introduced ideas and developments that have changed the industrial environment in the country.

Exports of Swiss Textile Machinery

production of more efficient machines at lower prices. Demand for sophisticated machines that produce high quality cloth with fewer defects is increasing. Swiss textile machinery holdings employ well over 28,000 people in over 100 companies and branch units around the world. In recent years, Swiss entrepreneurs have been able to extend their financial and technological share of the textile machinery industry. The 80th anniversary of the Swissmem textile machinery division was celebrated on December 9, 2020 . The Swissmem textile machinery division will celebrate its next future milestone in 2030. Openness to global trade and investment has enabled Switzerland to become one the world’s most competitive and innovative economies. Subsidiaries in India, China and other Asian countries became very important for Swiss textile

machine manufacturers, taking them inside the world’s leading textileproducing regions. World textile machinery manufacturers face challenges in the days ahead, including fluctuations in demand and increased competitive pressure. The growing demand for environmentally friendly fibres is expected to push demand for textile machinery and equipment that employ eco-friendly textile processes.

Exports The Swiss textile machinery industry is strongly export-oriented and has a presence with its own companies, sales and service organizations in all the world's key markets. The Swiss textile machinery industry is comprised of suppliers of machinery manufacturers for spinning, weaving, knitting, dyers, printers, finishing,

Swiss Review packaging and special machines for technical textile applications. The COVID-19 pandemic has caused considerable damage to various industries worldwide. Availability and supply of a wide range of raw materials, intermediate goods, and finished products have been seriously disrupted. According to Swissmem, total exports of Swiss textile machinery have decreased by 26.4% to CHF 510.6 million in 2020 as compared to CHF 694.0 million in 2019. Exports of Swiss textile machinery are given in Table 1. Some 87% of all textile machinery exported from Switzerland went to customers in those regions. At present, over one-third of Swiss textile machinery is exported to Asian markets. Bangladesh remained a major market for Swiss machinery, especially in the post-spinning machinery range. Top export markets during 2020 for the Swiss textile manufacturers are China, Germany, Turkey, USA, India, and Pakistan. Country-wise exports of Swiss textile machinery are given in Table 2. The most important market for Swiss textile machinery in 2020 was China with an export volume of CHF 76.9 million with a share of 15.1% of the whole export volume. While China continues to be the most important market Swiss textile machines, it is emerging as an increasingly strong competitor as well.

Future Prospects Swiss Textile machine manufacturers are masters of their speciality and supply the machines themselves as well as the measuring, regulating and process software. Swiss companies are at their best in making the equipment that could meet meticulous requirements of their customers. Today, the producers of machines and components and service providers in Swiss Textile Machinery sustain that heritage by a commitment to ongoing innovation that will influence the textile industry worldwide in the future. The textile machinery specialist group brings together manufacturers of machines and components and service providers to the textile industry. These companies offer solutions across the entire textile value chain from spinning to weaving, knitting, finishing, embroidery and quality control.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2021

Table 2: Exports of Swiss Textile Machinery (Jan-Dec 2020 vs Jan-Dec 2019) Country

Rank

Exports Mio. CHF

Exports ± CHF%

Exports Share CHF

510.6

-26.4%

100.0%

World China

76.9

-22.1%

15.1%

Germany

54.7

-10.6%

10.7%

Turkey

53.1

+11.6%

10.4%

USA

39.9

-36.5%

7.8%

India

28.9

-38.3%

5.7%

Pakistan

22.4

-41.9%

4.4%

Italy

18.0

-41.3%

3.5%

Czech Republic

17.6

+12.3%

3.4%

Japan

16.2

-9.5%

3.2%

Bangladesh

16.1

-49.0%

3.2%

Uzbekistan

15.9

-49.0%

3.1%

Vietnam

12.5

-52.4%

2.5%

Thaliand

11.6

-27.1%

2.3 %

Source: Swissmem.

After quite a few years with “bestever” order volume and results, Switzerland, as many other industrial countries, encounters a heavy slowdown of textile industry. It has become apparent that 2020 was very difficult year for all market players due to the global corona pandemic. Switzerland not imposed lockdown for the industry, so most of the companies continued production on a lower level, due to postponement of

orders and projects, supply chain difficulties and the insecure situation in general. But as long as consumers don’t start shopping again, the business will not recover, therefore, the prospects for 2021 are globally not very favourable in the near future.

References 1. 2.

Swissmem. Swiss Federal Customs Administration.

Bilateral relations Switzerland–Pakistan

by Prof. Dr. Noor Ahmed Memon, Dadabhoy Institute of Higher Education / Associate Editor, Pakistan Textile Journal. The economy of Switzerland is one of the world's most advanced free market economies. Switzerland is ranked 1st among 45 countries in the Europe region, and its overall score is well above the regional and world averages. Most Swiss firms (over 99%) are smalland medium-sized enterprises (SMEs). The Swiss economy has been rated free for more than a decade. GDP growth has slowed in recent years because of risks from the escalating trade war between China and the United States, the rising Swiss Franc, and the drastic economic slowdown in neighbouring Germany. According to United Nations, Switzerland is the third richest landlocked country in the world. Switzerland and Pakistan have good, long-standing relations. The two countries have signed a range of economic agreements that have helped to develop bilateral trade. The Swiss embassy in Pakistan has been located in Islamabad since 1968. The Swiss Agency for Development and Cooperation (SDC) opened a cooperation office in Islamabad in 1977 when Pakistan was upgraded to a priority

Table 1: Pak Swiss Trade

Value: US$ Million

Year

Exports

Imports

Balance of Trade

2015-16

736

-671

2016-17

850

-793

2017-18

128

1,084

-956

2018-19

926

-831

2019-20

649

-551

Source: State Bank of Pakistan.

country for Swiss development cooperation. In 1966, Switzerland and Pakistan signed a technical cooperation agreement which was supplemented in 1975 by an agreement on disaster relief. There are numerous bilateral agreements between Switzerland and Pakistan in fields as wide-ranging as investment protection, debt consolidation, aviation, double taxation and disaster relief. Swiss Business Council had also been set up for guiding Pakistani businessmen to enhance trade volume which had also signed several memorandums of

understanding (MoUs) to increase trade volume between the two counties. Both sides recognised the vast potential of the two economies for mutually beneficial cooperation. They agreed to take concrete steps, including the exchange of business delegations and supporting SMEs to further enhance and expand bilateral economic and commercial interaction. Switzerland ranks fifth in terms of foreign direct investment (FDI) in Pakistan and a reliable trading partner, the Swiss-based multinational companies have invested 1.2 billion dollars in

Swiss Review Pakistan, in various sectors including food processing, pharmaceuticals, chemicals, machinery and engineering, banking.

Table 2: Exports of Swiss textile machinery to Pakistan

The Swiss multinational companies that operate in Pakistan, do not just market their world class products and services, but also create employment opportunities in the country. Major Swiss companies that have invested in Pakistan include ABB, Archroma, Clariant, Sika, Gate Gourmet, Nestle and Novartis.

Pak-Swiss Trade The long-standing bilateral relations between Switzerland and Pakistan are good and a range of economic agreements has aided the development of bilateral trade.

Year

Exports Mio. EUR

Exports ±EUR%

2015

37.3

+22.9%

2016

24.4

-34.5%

2017

35.5

+45.5%

2018

26.8

-24.5%

2019

38.5

+44%

2020

22.4

-42%

Source: Swissmem.

million and consisted mainly of machinery, chemical and pharmaceutical products, and watches. Imports from Pakistan mainly textile goods such as cotton yarn, cotton fabrics, readymade garments, hosiery, made-up textiles, and synthetic textiles amounted to US$ 98 million.

Switzerland has traditionally run a trade surplus with Pakistan and has been one of the country's biggest direct investors for many years. Pakistan and Switzerland enjoy close and friendly relations and cooperate closely at multilateral fora and Switzerland is an important development partner of Pakistan. In the fiscal year 2019-20, Swiss exports to Pakistan amounted to US$ 649

Over the past five years, trade between Pakistan and Switzerland has increased, but the rise in imports has been greater than the exports. The total

Table 3: Imports of Textile Machinery from Switzerland’s to Pakistan

Machinery

2019-20

2018-19

Qty.

Value

Qty.

Value

Carding Machinery

1,395

112

1,214

Combing Machines

517

244

Drawing / Roving Machines

131

121

Blow Room Machinery

699

304

Preparation of Textile Fibres

122

Textile Spinning Machines

595

Textile Fibre Machines

131

204

Weaving Machines (Shuttleless)

398

589

188

392

Auxiliary Machines

156

214

Source: Pakistan Bureau of Statistics.

Quantity: Numbers Value: Rs Million

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2021

trade volume between Pakistan and Switzerland in 2019-20 was over US$ 1.20 billion with the balance of trade favouring Switzerland. The exports from Pakistan to Switzerland are decreased from US$ 128 million in 2017-18 to US$ 98 million in 2019-20, thus showing a decline of 23%. cotton fabrics and yarn, readymade garments, towels, hosiery, agricultural products are the major items exported from Pakistan to Switzerland. The import from Switzerland to Pakistan also decreased from US$1,084 million in 2017-18 to US$ 649 million in 2019-20, thus showing a decline of 40%. Pak Swiss Trade for the last five years is given in Table 1. Textile machinery, pharmaceutical products, organic chemicals, electrical, electronic equipment and plastics are the main items imported from Switzerland. Import of textile machinery from Switzerland to Pakistan decreased from Euros 38.5 million in 2019 to Euros 22.4 million in 2020, thus showing a decline of 42%. Imports of textile machinery from Switzerland to Pakistan in terms of Euros are given in Table 2 and imports of major textile machinery in terms of rupees from Switzerland’s to Pakistan are given in Table 3.

References 1. 2. 3. 4.

Pakistan Bureau of Statistics. Swissmem. State Bank of Pakistan-Annual Report-2019-20. Trade Development Authority of Pakistan.

Swiss Review

SPECIAL REPORT “Best time to convert challenges into opportunities is now.” “We are hopeful and reasonably confident that textile business will flourish with the present boom.” Interview: Mujtaba Rahim, President and CEO, Archroma Pakistan Limited.

Archroma and Jeanologia join forces to launch ‘PAD-OX G2 COLD’ ‘PAD-OX G2 COLD’ is a new Water-Saving Dyeing Process for Denim and Casual Wear. Archroma celebrates 3 years of working with aniline-free Indigo heroes. More than 18 tonnes Aniline removed from the enviorment. 300,000,000 pairs of jeans Aniline-free. More than 18,000 workers protected.

Swiss Review

“We are hopeful and reasonably confident that textile business will flourish with the present boom.” Mujtaba Rahim, President and CEO, Archroma Pakistan Limited.

The crisis and tragedies inflicted by Covid 19 have engulfed the entire 2020. Now with signs of recovery, what aspects do you see for the textile industry?

death toll, disabilities, and financial losses.

Businesses diversified themselves, for

We had never come across a lockdown

example, the textile industry took fast

situation in our lives. So, our industry was

action towards designing, producing and

Whilst there have been enormous disasters, disease, and calamities, I would say that the world did not experience this type of catastrophes at least in recent times. We are deeply saddened by the

scenarios. During the lockdown, in

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2021

unaware of how to make adjustments but we adapted fast to the changing addition to the travails of keeping the

marketing medical textiles e.g. face masks, protective gears, and numerous application areas for the health and

businesses afloat, the industry also

hygiene sector. Pakistan is now able to

contemplated how to re-model internal

capture some of the export markets of

costing systems with supply chains.

PPEs.

Swiss Review What initiatives did Archroma take to be in line with the “new normal”? At the very onset, we promptly adopted the SOPs laid down by our global and local Safety & Health teams and Government directives. Strict checks were implemented during the lockdown period from MarchAugust 2020. Safety gates were installed at our sites along with changes in office ergonomics on social distancing, frequent handwashing, mandatory use of masks for everyone. In mid-year, our Jamshoro site completed Two Million Safe Working Hours which is a compliment in its own right. In line with our sustainability vision, we assessed the impact of the COVID 19 pandemic on communities. On a war footing, the R&D Team at Archroma Center of Excellence developed the Kieralon® hand sanitizer range in three formulations, strictly based on WHO recommended formulation. Kieralon is now registered with the Pakistan Council of Scientific & Industrial Research (PCSIR) and Chemicals Regulation Division, Health & Safety Executive, UK. Kieralon®, due to its specific hygienic properties is being used within our organization as well donated to charitable institutions enabling public to fight the pandemic. Since June 2020, Kieralon® hand sanitizes have been adopted by Serene Air in Pakistan and presented to all air

passengers in their commercial flights as a complimentary gift.

How do you see the textile market dynamics in the present scenario? The government announced relief policies e.g., soft loans, rebates, reduced interest rates on bank loans to support the industry. These measures provided the much-needed oxygen for business especially for entrepreneurs, small & medium-sized enterprises. Now the industry is gradually reviving. The textile industry is in good shape. Our mills are getting sizeable orders for export and the local market is also gaining strength. Medical textiles emerged as a new sector and here too, our industry is performing very well. The

windfall orders we received during the peak of the pandemic should be capitalized permanently. Keeping costs and quality balance coupled with perfection in the supply chain will enable continuous growth. The best time to convert challenges into opportunities is now. We are hopeful and reasonably confident that the textile business will flourish with the present boom.

Mujtaba Rahim, CEO of Archroma Pakistan comments, “Within Archroma we are cognizant of the acute community need for high-quality hygiene products that are also comfortable for users, as hand sanitizers tend to be harsh on the skin, so we took on the challenge to develop and start production in record time. The Archroma team in Pakistan won’t rest in fighting the COVID-19 pandemic, and hopes this new product will help to stop the spread of the virus and the suffering that it causes.”

Denim overdyed using Pad-Ox G2 (Photo: Jeanologia)

Archroma and Jeanologia join forces to launch ‘PAD-OX G2 COLD’, a new Water-Saving Dyeing Process for Denim and Casual Wear Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, and Jeanologia, world leader in sustainable and efficient technology development, today the launch of ‘Pad-Ox G2 Cold’, a water-saving dyeing process at room temperature for casual looks. Archroma initially introduced its ecoadvanced Pad-Ox dyeing process for woven fabrics, and then used it as part of its ADVANCED DENIM concept. The idea was fairly simple, yet technically revolutionary at the time. By combining the oxidation and fixation steps, it is possible to shorten the dyeing process and thus real-

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2021

ize substantial resource savings in water, wastewater, cotton waste, and energy. Over the years the company has worked with its textile manufacturers and partners to improve the Pad-Ox process, in particular woven applications such as chinos and casual wear. To achieve maximum positive impact, Archroma is using its Diresul® range of low sulfide sulfur dyes and, more recently, its innovative plant-based range of EarthColors®. A wide selection of dyes from these two ranges have received the Cradle-toCradle Product Innovation Institute’s Platinum Level Material Health Certification. Meanwhile, Jeanologia has been working on the technology side, with

laser and eco-finishing solutions for more than 25 years, accompanying the textile industry on their way to producing with zero discharge. In 2008, the company introduced its G2 Dynamic the first ozone treatment for continuous fabric that dramatically reduces the amount of water and chemicals used, while at the same time saving costs at the mill and eventually at the garment finishing facilities. This technology makes fabric more stable and consistent and prepares the fabric better for the use of other technologies like laser. This machinery can be used along with Pad-Ox technology to help cleaning fabric thus improve fastness results. While it allows process to work at room temperature.

Swiss Review

Chinos dyed using Pad-Ox G2 (Photo: Archroma)

Project focus on water saving Archroma and Jeanologia therefore understandably decided to team up and combine their expertise in sustainable dyeing and finishing technologies. The objective of the project was to improve the Pad-Ox dyeing process even further,

in particular in one area that still offered room for positive impact: temperature and fastnesses. After several months of development, they have come up with a way to apply the PadOx dyeing process at room temperature, whilst still improving fastnesses and allowing higher contrasts after washdown. A binder-free technology to obtain end articles that are softer and have greater color durability to repetitive washing and solidity against rubbing than other wash-out processes.

The new ‘Pad-Ox G2 Cold’ dyeing process works thanks to the insertion of very small machinery into the existing finishing range process, using cold processing and thus operating with much less water, carbon footprint and energy than traditional benchmark fabric finishing processes, whilst retaining the water and other resource savings offered by the Pad-Ox technology.

Maximum savings can be achieved by mills and garment manufacturers who wish to switch from a conventional dyeing process straight to ‘Pad-Ox G2 Cold’ to obtain high quality fabrics for comfortable and casual wear. With this, Archroma and Jeanologia are again breaking the boundaries of what is considered feasible in the industry. Manel Jimenez, Business Development Manager at Archroma’s Competence Center for Denim & Casual Wear, who was the project leader for this new development, comments: “At Archroma, we strive to develop solutions in line with our principles of “The Archroma Way to a Sustainable World: Safe, efficient, enhanced, it’s our nature”. It was therefore very inspiring to work with a partner who shares the same values of developing efficient new processes to bring all know-how to our customers to maximize results.” For Jean Pierre Inchauspe, Business Director of G2 Dynamic at Jeanologia, “this association is another step to change traditional, more polluting and water consuming processes in the textile industry for new ones using technology, improving, and boosting subsequent production stages up to the finishing of the garment, making them more efficient and allowing companies to be more competitive, increase productivity and offer a product that is completely sustainable with high quality.

Jeanologia G2Dynamic machine (Photo: Jeanologia)

Archroma celebrates 3 years of working with aniline-free Indigo heroes Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, celebrates nearly three years of successfully converting the denim industry to anilinefree(1) pre-reduced liquid indigo. Archroma launched its anilinefree(1) Denisol® Pure Indigo in May 2018(3). Archroma has built a very strong reputation as a leader in developing innovations and solutions that help make its industry more sustainable. The Company calls its vision and commitment: “The Archroma Way to a Sustainable World: Safe, efficient, enhanced, it’s our nature.”

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2021

Swiss Review Aniline is a key ingredient to make the indigo molecule. Unfortunately, during this process some aniline impurities are carried through into the indigo dyestuff. When the indigo is dyed on the fabric, a lot of the aniline impurity is locked into the pigment in the fabric. The remainder of the aniline impurity, approximately 300 metric tons annually, is discharged during dyeing. This can be an issue as aniline is toxic to aquatic life. In addition, exposure levels to factory workers can be high. The new Denisol® Pure Indigo 30 liq was therefore developed as an aniline-free(1) indigo solution for designers, manufacturers and brand owners who long for authentic indigo inspiration. Since the launch of Denisol® Pure Indigo, several denim manufacturers, such as front-runner Absolute Denim, as well as Advance Denim, Azgard 9, Kilim Group, Nuevo Mundo, Rantex, Shasha Denim and Tuong Long, have taken the matter in their hands and converted their production or dedicated lines to anilinefree denim to brands and retailers. The innovation is also supported by denim partners such as Be Disobedient and The Denim Window. Almost 3 years later, Archroma and its partners can pause and proudly look back to all the aniline they have removed together- from the market, thus preserving the health of many denim workers and the aquatic life in our rivers. Archroma evaluates that, based on the total quantity of Denisol® Pure Indigo sold until its introduction, its partners helped remove almost 18 metric tons of aniline from the denim supply chain. That represents an equivalent to about 300’000’000 pairs of jeans free of aniline and more than 18’000 garment workers protected from its toxicity(2). “Aniline is a key ingredient of indigo, says Heike van de Kerkhof, CEO at Archroma. “Because of the toxicity of aniline, we really wanted to do something about it – although we initially faced some resistance as not everyone was ready to shed light on the issue of aniline, especially in the indigo industry. That is why we are so grateful to the many likeminded denim partners who decided to take the hand we were offering with Denisol® Pure Indigo.”

(1) Below limits of detection according to industry standards (tested & proven). (2) Based on 15 minutes of work to produce one pair of jeans, produced over 8-hour working days and 300 working weeks per year.

Swiss Review

First Prize on Occupational Safety & Health Archroma bagged first prize on Occupational Safety & Health after being adjudged best performer in the corporate sector. The nationwide contest was organized by Employers Federation of Pakistan. The Award is a recognition of our best practices in occupational safety and health specially at our Jamshoro & Landhi sites. Of special importance were the tools & SOPs practiced during the Covid19 pandemic and guidance provided to employees to safeguard them against the pandemic. Their environmental protection measures, enormous water saving at Sustainable Effluent Treatment plant, daily supply of 11,000 liters of clean drinking water to the neighboring communities absolutely free of cost, process of organic waste recycling to convert it into useful compost, green office initiatives, vast fruit and vegetable gardens developed at open spaces and energy conservation enabled them to win this most prestigious national award.

Awards and Achievements

Top 25 Companies Award Pakistan Stock Exchange ranked Archroma in 3rd position for the year 2019. A remarkable feat achieved for the 17th time in a row that Archroma wins positions amongst Top 25 companies at the Stock Exchange. This consecutive achievement is a recognition of sustainable compliance with the high standards of corporate governance set by the Stock Exchange. The winning criteria are based on capital efficiency, good corporate governance, listing regulations, transparency and timely distribution of profits.

Corporate Excellence Award Archroma Pakistan was adjudged winner of the 35th Corporate Excellence Award in the Chemical Sector by the Management Association of Pakistan for the 9th time in a row. We take great pride inthis continuous recognition of our best practices in management, finance, corporate social responsibility initiatives and employee motivation. The Award was presented by Mr. Asad Umar, Federal Minister for Planning & Development, Government of Pakistan, to Mr.Vaqar Arif in March 2020 in the presence of a large gathering from the corporate sector.

Affordable and Clean Energy Corporate Social Responsibility Award Living The Global Compact Business Sustainability Award Archroma is the founding signatory of the Global Compact rolled out to the corporate world in December 2005 by the Employers Federation of Pakistan. Its ten complying principles relate to Human rights, Labor, Environment and AntiCorruption. Within Archroma, we observe all principles with full sanctity and discipline. Our conformity earned the GC Sustainability Award in February 2020.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2021

Archroma Pakistan won CSR Award in the protection area of Biodiversity & Conservation in recognition of its many actions aimed at environment protection and water conservation. The national contest was organized by the National Forum for Environment & Health. We continuously challenge the status quo with the deep belief that it can make our industry sustainable.

The energy supply accounts for approximately 60% of greenhouse gas emissions. We have taken strict measures to control energy consumption simultaneously adopting innovative solutions to reduce electricity usage. As our measure on resource optimization, Sodium lights were replaced with LED lights at all sites. This change brought a reduction in cost, energy efficiency as well as made the environment cleaner.

Swiss Review

Recognition of a Hat Trick Employer of the Year Award & CEO of the Year Archroma is the only company in the corporate sector with a hat-trick in winning the First Prize as "Employer of the Year" in the category of Multinational Companies and accordingly Mr. Mujtaba Rahim being declared "CEO of the Year" in recognition of his leadership acumen of winning company for the years 2015, 2016 & 2017. At the 7th contest, the Employers Federation of Pakistan recognized Archroma's unbeatable record and presented a Shield of Appreciation. It was presented by Mr. Anwar Solangi, Provincial Secretary Labour & Manpower, Government of Sindh in November 2019.

Tree Plantation Award Archroma promotes tree plantation in schools, civil administration offices and neighborhood. At our production sites in Jamshoro and Landhi, it is our motto to plant fruit trees with the result that mangoes, guavas, Sapota (Chikoo), dates, grapefruit, papayas and coconuts are available in abundance every season. They utilized designated open spaces for growing vegetables. Archroma contributes to a cleaner environment by converting organic solid waste into compost. So far 7000 kgs of organic compost have been made to enrich the soil. Composting is a new initiative of our team and is done in-house using recycled items in recognition of our efforts to conserve the environment, National Forum for Environment & Health presented us with the Tree Plantation Award for the second year in running in September 2020.

Archroma Pakistan wins Fire Safety Award Archroma recently announced that it has won the Fire Safety Award in a nationwide contest organized by the Fire & Safety Association of Pakistan in collaboration with the National Forum for Environment & Health. The award was received by Qazi Naeemuddin, Head of Operations in the Jamshoro site of Archroma, at a ceremony held on December 17, 2020, in Karachi. The award is a recognition of continuous efforts on fire safety at the Archroma’s site of Jamshoro and Landhi,

Clean Water and Sanitation We, in Archroma, are cognizant of the growing water scarcity that has become more pronounced in the past decades. Sindh being water stressed land is more affected by water scarcity. A state-of-the-art Sustainable Effluent Treatment (SET) Plant was constructed by our engineers and technicians at the Jamshoro site and is fully operational since December 2013. It works on the "Zero Liquid Discharge" principle which means that not a single drop of water is wasted. Being a responsible corporate citizen, our second Biological Effluent Treatment Plant is located at Landhi site, Karachi wherein waste water is recycled and re-used. In recognition of our efforts, Archroma received the"Global Water Stewardship Award" at Paris in 2014. Our project was selected out of 600 global nomination entries in water management.

implemented. They are pioneers ineffective implementation of safety awareness amongst their employees and society.” Mr Nasir Hussain Shah, provincial Minister said in his keynote speech.

Qazi Naeemuddin holding the Fire Safety Award.

as well as their offices in Korangi and Karachi. Regular training sessions are organized on the implementation of fire emergency plans, mock exercises for quick-fire control and rescue operations, and first aid. “We highly appreciate the services of organizations wherein fire safety laws and regulations are accurately

“We follow a ‘Safety First’ principles at Archroma and make no compromise when it comes to safety. This is why that our best practices are recognized year after year at this forum. Our safety model is an integral part of sustainable business initiatives in line with the principles of “The Archroma Way to a Sustainable World: Safe, efficient, enhanced, it’s our nature” and we will continue to strive for higher standards in the years to come.” Commented Mujtaba Rahim, CEO of Archroma Pakistan. 

Swiss Review

Ring and Rotor Spinning of Recycled Fibers The increasing importance of recycled fiber processing. With barely one percent of garments being recycled and three quarters of the world’s clothing ending up in landfill, the textile industry is actively seeking ways to make production patterns more sustainable and pay more attention to the entire life cycle of items of clothing. Rieter is offering solutions for the integration of recycled raw material into yarn production to help close the textile loop. The results of the latest study show that it is possible to spin not only rotor, but also ring yarns of different quality with a considerable amount of recycled raw material on a Rieter system. In recent years, better use of raw materials has become very important in the textile sector due to growing environmental awareness, legal requirements for more sustainability, and the cost of raw materials. As a result, more research and development is being carried out in the various areas of textile recycling. Coordination and cooperation between the different industrial sectors, from the procurement of raw materials through to the new final product, will be vital. Only then will it be possible to expand and optimize the entire recycling process to help it grow into a larger market. In the next few years, the realistic market potential for the staple fiber industry for recycled raw materials amounts to around 7.6 million tons annually if the current trend continues.

Fig. 1: The Rieter Recycling Classification allows a very good estimation of processability and yarn quality of the used material.

Fig. 2: Process sequences for recycled materials.

Classify the raw material To help spinners in the area of recycled fibers, Rieter has established a classification system for the typical recycled raw material quality available on the market (Fig. 1). The Rieter Recycling Classification makes it easier for spinners to estimate what targets can be reached depending on the material.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2021

Fig. 3: The rotor spinning machine is well suited for processing fibers with a high short-fiber content, which is reflected in better evenness.

Swiss Review The short-fiber content, the mean fiber length and the 5% fiber length are important parameters after the tearing process because they help to determine which subsequent spinning process (ring or rotor) should be used and which quality (uniformity) and maximum spinning fineness (yarn count) can be achieved in this context.

Defining the optimal spinning process for recycled materials A very interesting recycling example is the re-spinning of used cotton clothes, e.g. T-shirts. Typically, the recycled raw material is blended with virgin cotton. This application was also used in the Rieter trial to determine the optimum spinning process. Both the requirements for raw-material preparation and the best machine configuration for spinning staple fibers were considered. The raw material in the trial was a blend of virgin cotton from Chad and bleached cotton recycled fibers which were mixed in varying proportions. The graph shows the process sequences within the spinning process (Fig. 2).

Fig. 4: The ring spinning process achieves significantly higher yarn tenacities than rotor spinning.

Rotor yarn has the best unevenness In essence, the rotor spinning machine is well suited for processing fibers with a high short-fiber content (>30%), which is reflected in better evenness (Fig. 3). This is due to better fiber feeding of the opened fibers in the closed fiber feed channel and the doubling of the individual fibers in the rotor groove. For acceptable yarn quality and operational reliability, a blend containing up to 75% recycled content is possible in this raw material configuration.

Ring yarn has the highest tenacity Ring yarn, by contrast, has the highest yarn tenacity on account of more intensive fiber integration (Fig. 4). This opens a wider range of applications, namely the increased use of these yarns in weaving mills. It is important to note that tenacity reduces as the recycled and short-fiber content increases.

Is it economical to produce yarn from recycled fibers? The economic efficiency depends on the proportion of recycled material in the

Fig. 5: The Return on Investment (ROI) is best for blends containing 25% to 50% recycled material.

yarn, as this has an influence on the yarn conversion costs and the yarn sale price. In the Rieter trial a yarn count between Ne 12 and Ne 20 was used and the yarn conversion costs were calculated for ring yarns and rotor yarns in Turkey. (Fig. 5). The economic analysis assumes a slightly cheaper recycled raw material price compared to a medium-quality virgin cotton. The calculation is also based on the realistic view that trade will accept a higher price for yarn made of recycled fibers. Depending on the amount of recycled fibers there is little loss of yarn or fabric quality, but raw material resources are better utilized and meet the need of many companies to become more sustainable. A blend containing 25 to 50% recycled raw material should therefore

achieve a yarn sales price which is at least 0.1 to 0.2 cents per kg higher than that of virgin cotton raw material, depending on the end-spinning process and yarn count. Graph 5 shows that the Return on Investment (ROI) is best for blends containing 25% to 50% recycled material. There will be greater or lesser scope for the economic viability of the staplefiber yarn production process depending on whether it is a case of yarn trading or a fully integrated process. In any case, the economic analysis shows interesting opportunities for processing recycled cotton raw materials using staple-fiber yarn production. Detailed information on spinning recycled fibers can be found here: https://www.rieter.com/products/spinningsystems/recycling-spinning-system

Swiss Review Müller innovations and wealth creation drive narrow weavers’ business to achieve a competitive advantage and to secure their position in the market. Photo: MÜGRIP® MBJ8 MDW®.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2021

Swiss Review

Jakob Müller AG : Best in class in narrow fabrics weaving Jakob Müller AG shows great ambition and success in developing outstanding systems and solutions. Belts, tapes, laces, cords, ribbons, labels and so much more, covering applications from apparel to industry and from underwear to automotive, behind its smart, safe and creative functions usually stands a machine made by Jakob Müller AG. Nothing is too narrow for the Swiss company to introduce innovation. The core competence of Jakob Müller AG (Müller) lies in systems and solutions for ribbons and narrow fabrics: Müller researches, develops, plans and produces top technology. With its product range, the company covers every requirement of the ribbon and narrow fabrics industry from yarn warping to the finished product, from crochet knitting to woven labels, and from individual machines to complete system solutions.

World records in softness and speed Using a high degree of innovative capacity and the latest technologies, Müller develops its products in line with current or future customer needs. An excellent example is MÜGRIP® MBJ8 MDW®, technology designed for

VELVEDGE® – the softest label edge ever. The MDW® technology combines traditional weaving with a new and highly flexible weft laying device, and VELVEDGE® guarantees best slitting quality for smoothest edges.

and reproducible narrow fabric quality with selvedges of a very high standard, an intuitive operation and control system, outstanding machine and operator safety as well as a minimum maintenance requirement.

The multidirectional weaving MDW® is ideal for processing sustainable materials and perfect for the production of functional, intelligent textiles such as community masks, SMART textiles like textile bus systems, luminous textiles, heating/cooling textiles, conductive textiles for battery systems etc. as well as fashionable textiles from decorative ribbons and gift tapes to club-/fan scarfs. And the good news is that MDW® can be retrofitted to existing MBJ8 label production systems.

Müller innovations and wealth creation drive narrow weavers’ business to achieve a competitive advantage and to secure their position in the market.

Müller’s NG3 series are the world’s fastest narrow fabric needle looms. This series represents a technical and technological development quantum leap. The heald frame drives and movement, as well as the shafts and healds are designed for high speeds, and for medium-weight articles now offer a maximum of 2,750 rpm (using the S5 weaving system). The excellent machine efficiency goes with extremely reliable

Fit to satisfy – everywhere Müller manufactures components and modules that determine the performance of its own machinery. 132 years of experience are the solid foundation on which Müller builds its innovative products made in high quality. The Swiss company makes a lasting contribution to the training of skilled personnel and takes strong efforts that all activities are characterized by the employment of eco-friendly processes and the economic use of raw materials. Müller is globally represented at 12 locations and active in 82 markets. The subsidiaries and a tight net of experienced agents take care of customers and prospects. 

Benninger’s bleaching range.

Benninger Machines and systems for textile finishing solutions The Swiss company Benninger develops and produces machines and systems for textile finishing and tire cord production and has many years of experience in the automation of these machines. The machines and systems are an important link in the textile value chain and run as complete system solutions. In 2019 Benninger had its 160 years anniversary. This anniversary stands primarily for 160 years of commitment to textiles, but also for responsibility towards sustainable textile production. Typical

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2021

consumer products such as clothing, home textiles, bed linen and car tires are very often produced with Benninger technology. Benninger machines and systems are also used whenever textiles have to satisfy the highest technical demands, such as those required for airbags, medical textiles or sails. Benninger offers complete solutions for all major textile finishing processes, with a special expertise in the field of continuous open width processing of woven, knitted and technical textiles with minimum resource consumption. The product range covers the whole textile

finishing processes – from Bleaching to Washing, Mercerizing and Dyeing.

Expanded product portfolio in growing markets In January 2020 Benninger took over LAB-PRO GmbH, a Swiss company, that succeeded in building up a complete range of world-leading technological products for discontinuous wet finishing. Thus the Benninger portfolio has been extended by technologically advanced discontinuous dyeing machines such as Jet and Jigger dyeing machines as well as Beam dyeing and laboratory dyeing

Swiss Review significant competitive advantages such as increased productivity and optimized quality, lowest water and energy consumption and highest reproducibility.

important machine data, the maintenance status and the ecological footprint of the current production batch at any time and from any place.

Smart technology incorporated

Last but not least the newlydeveloped online measurement of the degree of contamination of the washing water helps our customers with the optimisation of water consumption.

All Benninger plants are equipped with our innovative automation solutions. True to the principle "trust is good, control is better", the important operating parameters of the Benninger systems are continuously monitored in a closed control circuit. Particularly qualitycritical parameters are forwarded to those responsible by means of modern IoT technologies and an alarm is sounded in the event of limit value violations. A newly revised maintenance manager provides information about the maintenance status of the system at any time and generates a recommendation as well as a schedule for the next maintenance cycle. The well established management information system BENiDATA allows the customer to query all

Benninger is renowned by its comprehensive process knowledge both in application consulting and project planning as well as its close relationship with the customers in the entire life cycle of installed plants. Our clients are looking for solutions and not products! High quality delivery, throughout process knowledge, the history of Benninger and number of years of experience and flexibility makes us the most reliable solution provider of the textile industry resulting in premier quality clothing and textiles as an end product when we say to the world “You can feel it’s Benninger!”

apparatus. Fully automatic chemical, salt, soda or dye dosing systems, which ensure the highest accuracy and reproducibility, complete the portfolio. By combining the know-how and experience of both companies, Benninger is one of the leading system suppliers in the field of continuous and now also discontinuous dyeing and finishing technology. The product range is constantly optimized and extended, and we draw on our tremendous innovative strength, comprehensive technical and process expertise as well as knowledge gained from a large number of projects. New findings are always incorporated into the development of solutions, always with the aim of boosting the success of our customers. Textile Finishing Process solutions offered by Benninger are extremely innovative and provide customers with Benninger FabricMaster.

Swiss Review

Retech Godet rolls made to meet topmost expectations The popular phrase ‘hanging by a thread’ really means something in yarn applications for protective wear, as well as in medical, automotive and aviation. Man-made fibers for these sectors have to fit specifications precisely, to be on the safe side for both producers and end-users – and Retech develops godet rolls as the key manufacturing components to ensure these standards are met. These threads – some literally lifesaving – are made of polyamide, polyester, polypropylene, aramid, carbon, bio-based and many other polymers, categorized as technical yarns and highperformance fibers. Retech launched two innovative godet rolls lately: the Ø 250 mm model developed for technical yarns and the Ø 320 mm model, reaching out to today’s temperature conditions, as needed for high-performance fibers such as aramid.

High-tech for a secretive business Yarn engineering is a secretive business when it comes to sensitive applications, as well as future developments. Customers build on Retech expertise and trust its wide range of key components in perfectly meeting requirements such as temperature, speed and torque. But only in rare cases does the customer provide any information about the yarn and its final characteristics. “Comparing required customized solutions shows us trends regarding the market demand for godet rolls. It becomes our ambition to innovate the one godet roll meeting these latest customer needs,” says Ralph von Arx, CEO, Retech AG. Identifying a strong demand for technical yarns with maximum strength, Retech addressed this with the newlylaunched type Ø 250 mm roll, with an ideal length of 420 mm to process eight or twelve threads at a time. The extended diameter of 250 mm allows a significantly higher speed with the same dwell time. Additionally, the higher motor torque

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2021

Retech Godet Roll 320 mm.

guarantees the very best results in yarn tenacity. Further technical parameters are as remarkable: speed can be ramped up to 6500 m/min – applying a torque value of 15 Nm through the full speed range – and the temperature reaches 250°C with an excellent temperature profile of +/- 1.5°C over the whole working width of the godet roll. When comparing its performance with the popular type of Ø 220 series, the achievements become even more impressive, since the speed can be increased further, as well as the torque. These differences make it possible to process a much wider range of yarn counts.

Reaching to the limits of strength boundaries Retech has built a strong reputation for using technology enable a larger diameter and the required heating capacity within limited space. The new type Ø 320 mm, specially developed for high-performance fibers, has become Retech’s latest pride. Featuring various length, this type is ideal for serpentine yarn paths to multi-

enlacement, and suits practically all machine concepts and yarn paths. For high-performance fibers it’s essential to optimize heat entry into the yarn, so the first step must be to extend the dwell time, which in turn is influenced by speed and diameter. The top diameter of Ø 320 mm allows the number of revolutions per minute to be reduced, resulting in optimum dwell time – while taking the advantage of an enlarged contact area. Unique yarn characteristics are made possible by impressive temperatures up to 400°C, along with torque values of 35 Nm and speeds up to 1500 m/min. Aramids are today the strongest textile fibers. Para-aramids generally have high glass transition temperatures nearing 370°C. Heat treatment under tension increases crystalline orientation for unique tension values – all perfected when mechanical drawing orients the polymer chains in the fiber direction. For two reasons, the Ø 320 mm model is the ideal godet to produce sophisticated products such as aramids: it meets technical requirements for heat, torque and speed and it performs at the required precision.

Swiss Review Retech’s reliability in use is founded on precise temperature measurements and adjustments – a major aspect of continuous developments.

Until the ultimate Committed to constant innovation and improvement, Retech engineers have already worked on perfecting the new generation of temperature transmitters successful launched at ITMA 2019. Changes in the temperature control of the individual

induction heater zones have improved power input and load distribution. More uniform power input into the inductor reduces the pulsation of the induction heat and prolongs the lifetime of the induction heater itself, as well as of the motor bearings. The smooth-running highprecision drives become even smoother, which brings significant advantages. For example monofilament, producers are able to make yarn of finest titer without the slightest variation in diameter. Last but not least, the changes additionally have a

positive effect on the power grid, making its utilization more even, with fewer peaks, and facilitating a more balanced running of the mill’s system load. The culture of ongoing enhancement and the desire for perfection make Retech a reliable partner when it comes to yarns for challenging – and especially life-saving – applications. “Producers can rely on us. We never stop until we can draw our customer’s fibers to perfection,” says von Arx. 

EspriTech specializes in automated textile folding machinery Swiss company EspriTech specializes in high-tech Automated Textile Folding Machinery for home textile industry. The company by using a range of mechatronic competencies can reliably fold to measure all kind of fitted or flat sheets as well as curtains and apparel. It is important to note that folding automation allows faster and smoother production through-put at much lower cost per fold. With attractive folding patterns, espriTech also creates additional and

more sustainable value for its customers. Some of the references include Sadaqat Limited (Pakistan), Trident Group and Welspun (India). The flag ship Black Diamond MultiPurpose Folding Machine with its 90° feeding table sets a standard for worldwide unique attractive “Border All Around”folding patterns. The Black Opal folding machine is for the folding and stacking of towels and other flat products, - woven, non woven, non-elastic flat pieces. This installation is

a stand-alone unit. The folding machine is able to work up various material types including terry, cotton, sateen, mixture fabric, polyester/cotton and flannel. The feeding edges of the pieces are shown as outside fold or hidden as inside fold. The apparel folding machine type Blue Sapphire designed for the folding and stacking of Apparels and other flat products. The folding machine is able to work up various material types including cotton, mohair, cashmere, mixture fabric as polyester/cotton. 

The Black Opal folding machine is for the folding and stacking of towels and other flat products.

Swiss Review

Santex manufacturing facilities and offices in Tobel, Switzerland.

Santex presents ground-breaking stenter, combines top performance with customer value Santex leads the way in the finishing of knitted fabrics of cotton, blends and viscose. With a combination of low energy use and top performance, its specialized technology delivers the triple benefits of low residual shrinkage, excellent surface lustre and soft handle. Now, the Santex high-performance stenter is set for a return to popularity – in a new version offering high-quality processing and rapid payback on investment. Several big-name fashion houses have depended on Santex know-how since the company’s foundation in Switzerland in 1982. The story began in response to the demands of householders, at a time when tumble dryers were becoming essential equipment in the modern home. Unfortunately, they soon found a problem: knitted items were shrinking quite dramatically in the heat of the tumbling process. That’s where Santex came in, with a solution to control residual shrinkage during finishing of the knitgoods.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2021

Swiss attributes

SANTAFRAME: back and better

Santex has always stood by the traditional Swiss attributes of innovation and precision, and its machinery ranges today support that with specialized machines for finishing open-width and tubular knitted fabrics. Added to that are energy-saving options which benefit customers through sustainable production and low CO2 values.

Within the finishing community, there remained widespread appreciation of the unique qualities of the original SANTAFRAME. This sparked a passion in the developers to create a new product, with all the most popular qualities of the original, allied to the changing needs of modern customers.

Typifying those values is the SANTAFRAME – a stenter originally launched in the late 1990s, offering unmatched performance and groundbreaking technology. Using a novel air-flow technique, it conveyed the fabric on a cushion of air, giving a softer handle and better shrinkage values. Customers were immediately impressed with these, and other advantages, in heat-setting and drying. Despite the acclaim, SANTAFRAME eventually struggled to compete in a market that was becoming increasingly price-driven.

Today, the new SANTAFRAME brings ingenious solutions for heated air distribution and exhaust. Its heating element is uniquely positioned, after the circulating air turbine (on the pressure side), in a sealed chamber above the fabric track. This arrangement avoids the risk of condensation dropping onto the fabric. Improved loading of the circulating and exhaust air with water results in less exhaust air than conventional stenter frames. Positioning the heating on the pressure side also significantly increases evaporation – with unchanged energy consumption – thanks to the higher air speed and the specially-designed nozzles.

Swiss Review

Santex SANTAFRAME.

Further highlights of the new SANTAFRAME include a built-in exhaust ducting device, an emergency standstill system and the choice of heating devices. Of course, the renowned AERO-SURF Nozzle System is still a key element, promoting softest handle, excellent shrinkage and even heat-setting. Along with high performance and precision, SANTAFRAME now gives unrivalled customer value and fast investment payback. Savings in both time

and cost start right away: installation is much quicker, as each machine is preassembled, erected, wired and tested in the Santex plant before delivery. Drying sections are shipped as fully-mounted units and the PLC programming unit is ready to go.

Leading group, global network Santex is a core brand for textile finishing machines. It is part of Santex Rimar Group, a leading player in global

textile machinery markets for weaving, textile finishing, technical textiles and green technologies for water treatment and drying processes. Santex Rimar Group has a worldwide presence through network of nearly 200 agents, as well as experienced local service teams for all brands. Headquartered in Italy, the group maintains subsidiaries in Switzerland, China and India. 

ROTORCRAFT offers NGD Next Generation Drafting ROTORCRAFT is one of the leading providers of innovative, high quality spinning components. In today's environment, this means ROTORCRAFT's main focus of all our products is on three issues:  Power saving in a world power becomes more and more expensive and scarce.  Simplicity of operation in an industry dealing with staff shortage and high labour cost.  Seamless service to optimise and safeguard of our customers' operations. Next Generation Drafting GC-P is the premium compact drafting solution for most model and make ring spinning frames available for ring frames with short- or long bottom aprons.

NGS - Next Generation spinning bottom aprons can be replaced individually while the frame is running. In this context, the spindle beam and drive move - all other components remain stationery. The central low-pressure channel is fitted between the working elements of the frame.  Lift and yarn tension are constant at any time during build-up of the cop.  Ring frames > 2'00 spindles are possible.  No additional drive for the bottom rollers is needed at half-length of the frame.  Both sides of the frame operate independently - like two seperate frames.  The central low-pressure channel is suitable for both broken ends and compacting. NGS - Next Generation Spinning.

Swiss Review

Fig. 1: Air covering machine SSM XENO-AC TWIN for producing core yarns with a dual or triple core.

SSM offers Air-Covering Process for Spinning Corespun Yarns with a Dual Core

In the past, items of clothing such as jeans were produced purely from cotton. Some time ago now, elastic woven fabrics became established in the clothing industry thanks to their positive characteristics. To produce these elastic yarns, so-called corespun yarns with a dual core that are spun on a ring spinning machine are used for weft threads and sometimes also warp threads. Due to the increased demand for elastic yarns, traditional ring spinning mills are upgrading their machines to compete in this market.

Two production possibilities

Corespun yarns that are used to produce woven stretch fabrics consist of an elastic core with a second spinnable fibre wrapped around its entire length.

There are essentially two methods of producing corespun yarns with a dual or triple core. In the first method, the elastane yarn and textured filament yarn

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2021

The core can only be made from elastane. Or alternatively, it is made from an elastane yarn and a textured filament yarn. This is known as a “dual-core yarn.” Today, there is even a trend for making the core from two elastane yarns with different drafts and yarn counts together with a textured filament yarn. These “triple-core yarns” further improve the characteristics of these woven stretch fabrics in terms of their stretch and shape-retaining characteristics.

are spun directly on a Rieter ring spinning machine with the spinnable fibres that act as sheathing. In the second method, the elastane yarn and textured filament yarn are doubled, air-covered and wound up together on a SSM XENO-AC TWIN machine (Fig. 1) before being processed on the ring spinning machine. In a second step, cotton is spun over the dual- or triple-core yarn located on the “cheese packages” (Fig. 2), for example using a Rieter ring spinning machine (Fig. 3). Both methods require specialized superstructural parts to be fitted on existing ring spinning machines. For the direct method in which the dual- or triple-core yarn is not prewound, these superstructural parts are

Swiss Review very tall. In order to reload the ring spinning machine, it must be switched off. This causes a productivity loss of around 13% in comparison to the indirect method. Furthermore, the operating personnel have to climb onto the ring spinning machine in order to place the bobbins with the textured filament. This is not only dangerous but also means that additional personnel are temporarily required who could be utilized for other operational tasks.

Advantage indirect method As discussed above, producing corespun yarns with a dual or triple core using the indirect method requires an additional work step: preparing the core yarn using the air covering machine SSM XENO-AC TWIN. The bobbin holder on the ring spinning machine needed for this Fig. 2: Cheese packages made of air-covered elastane and textured filament yarn.

solution is much lower and more userfriendly. A further advantage is that each spinning position can be loaded while all the other positions continue to operate. This means there is no production downtime while the machine is being reloaded. The conversion costs for both methods are around the same, with the SSM XENO-AC TWIN method being slightly cheaper.

operator to detect a non-centered core yarn in the yarn. This flaw can only be seen once the fabric has been woven and dyed. Since elastane cannot be dyed, poor centering of the core yarn can create flawed spots in the woven fabric that disrupt its overall appearance. The air covering machine ensures consistent quality and consequently reduces complaints.

Air covering machine ensures consistent quality

Excellent entry opportunity for traditional ring spinners

The main advantage of the indirect method with the air covering machine is that the core yarn is centered better during processing on the ring spinning machine and is very well covered with the spinning staple fibres as a result. This ensures that the core yarn is optimally protected. It is very difficult for the

Corespun yarns with a dual or triple core where the filament has already been doubled and air-covered on an air covering machine are therefore of a higher quality than corespun yarns produced directly on a ring spinning machine. The method with the SSM XENO-AC TWIN offers traditional ring spinners an excellent opportunity to enter the elastic corespun yarn market and achieve success. This method is also very userfriendly and safe. No compromises on yarn quality have to be made. For further information about the SSM applications and possibilities: www.ssm.ch. 

Fig. 3: Spinning dualor triple-core yarn on a ring spinning machine.

Fabrics of the future…

Swiss weaving machinery manufacturers are in the forefront of novel application development. Shoes and electronic calculators are probably not the first products people would associate with the textile weaving process. But they certainly signpost the future for woven fabrics, as two examples of the ever-wider possibilities of latest technology in the field. Fashion and function already combine in the increasing popularity of woven fabrics for shoes, and this is a present and future trend. Calculators in fabrics? That’s another story of ingenious development, using so-called ‘meander fields’ on the back and keys printed on the front of the material. These glimpses of the outlook for modern weavers are among the highlights of developments now being pioneered by Swiss textile machinery companies.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2021

The weaving markets require innovation, as well as speed, efficiency, quality and sustainability. Member firms of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association respond to these needs at every point in the process – from tightening the first thread in the warp to winding the last inch for fabric delivery. They also share a common advantage, with a leading position in the traditional weaving industry as well as the expertise to foster new and exciting applications.

Technology and research cooperation The concept of a ‘textile calculator’ was developed by Jakob Müller Group, in cooperation with the textile research institute Thuringen-Vogtland. Müller’s patented MDW® multi-directional weaving technology is able to create the

meander fields which allow calculator functions to be accessed at a touch. A novel and useful facility, which suggests limitless expansion. Today, the latest woven shoes are appreciated for their precise and comfortable fit. They score through their durability, strength and stability, meeting the requirements of individual athletes across many sports, as well as leisure wear. Stäubli is well known as a leading global specialist in weaving preparation, shedding systems and high-speed textile machinery. Its jacquard machines offer great flexibility across a wide range of formats, weaving all types of technical textiles, lightweight reinforcement fabrics – and shoes. It’s possible to weave new materials such as ceramics, mix fibers such as

Swiss Review aramid, carbon and other, and produce innovative multi-layers with variable thicknesses. Such applications put special demands on weaving machines which are fulfilled by Stäubli high-performance TF weaving systems.

soft-feel selvedge. It also focuses as much as possible on the processing of recycled, synthetic materials. Both PET bottles and polyester waste from production are recycled and processed into elastic and rigid tapes for the apparel industry.

Great weaving results are impossible without perfect warp tension, now available thanks to the world-leading electronic warp feeding systems of Crealet. Some market segments in weaving industry today demand warp letoff systems which meet individual customer requirements. For example, the company has recognized expertise to understand that geotextile products often need special treatment, as provided by its intelligent warp tension control system. Individual and connective solutions are designed to allow external support via remote link. Crealet’s warp let-off systems are widely used in both ribbon and broadloom weaving, for technical textiles applied on single or multiple warp beams and creels.

For efficient fabric production environments, it is now recognized that automated quality solutions are essential. Quality standards are increasing everywhere and zero-defect levels are mandatory for sensitive applications such as airbags and protective apparel.

Functional, sustainable, automated Trends in the field of woven narrow fabrics are clearly focused on functionality and sustainability. The Jakob Müller Group has already embraced these principles – for example using natural fibers for 100% recyclable labels with a

Uster’s latest generation of on-loom monitoring and inspection systems offers real operational improvements for weavers. The fabric quality monitoring prevents waste, while the quality assurance system significantly improves first-quality yield for all applications. Protecting fabric makers from costly claims and damaged reputations, automated fabric inspection also removes the need for slow, costly and unreliable manual inspection, freeing operators to focus on higher-skilled jobs. Smart and collaborative robotics (cobots) offer many automation possibilities in weaving rooms. Stäubli’s future oriented robotics division is a driver in this segment with first effective installations in warp and creel preparation.

Control and productivity Willy Grob’s specialized solutions for woven fabric winding focus on reliable control of tension, keeping it constant from the start of the process right through to the full cloth roll. Continuous digital control is especially important for sensitive fabrics, while performance and productivity are also critical advantages. In this regard, the company’s large-scale batching units can provide ten times the winding capacity of a regular winder integrated in the weaving machine. The customized concept by Grob as well as design and implementation result in great flexibility and functionality of the fabric winding equipment – yet another example of Swiss ingenuity in textile machinery. There is even more innovation to come in weaving – and in other segments – from members of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association in future! This confident assertion is founded on an impressive statistic: the 4077 years of experience behind the creative power of the association’s member firms. It’s proof positive that their developments grow out of profound knowledge and continuous research.

New customer-centered user interface with a 16:9 touchscreen on control units.

New Uster Quantum 4.0 yarn clearer offers spinners the best of both worlds Which yarn clearing technology should spinners choose? Now there’s only one answer, as Uster launches the new Quantum 4.0 clearer generation. This world-beating innovation combines both capacitive and optical sensors in one – delivering comprehensive security, prevention and flexibility. The Smart Duo system offers the best of both worlds for intelligent yarn quality control and optimized profitability. It means mills can now focus on meeting the fast-moving market challenges, instead of pondering technical options.

Security and reliability: the basis of yarn quality Quantum 4.0 is like a dream come true for the industry. For years, spinners

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2021

have wished for a way to bring the best of different technologies together, for secure quality and maximum flexibility. Spinners can now access full security in quality control, ensuring the best clearing mode is applied. The Quantum 4.0 enables this through a simple Capacitive/Optical switch. This allows greater flexibility in the types of yarn which can be produced, while also dealing with factors such as humidity variations.

Intelligent sensors in tandem The capacitive and optical sensors work intelligently in tandem through an innovation known as Cross Clearing. This locates and eliminates hidden defects by means of a double check, in which the

main sensor’s signal is supported by the assistance sensor. This deals with issues such as unnoticed fluff events, which might otherwise cause breaks downstream. Today’s market trends show strong demand for compact yarns. Here, spinners can trust Quantum 4.0 to tap this potential and deal with any quality issues. The density feature, for example, protects mills from substandard cops caused by ring spinning malfunctions such as blocked compacting zones, or twist problems. The Smart Duo has the advantage of monitoring yarn density continuously and after every splice. “No matter where density variations originate, be it compacting, different twist levels due to slip spindles or otherwise, Uster Quantum 4.0 takes care of it – and this is

Swiss Review a real technical innovation,” says Katrin Hofer, Product Manager at Uster Technologies.

No more material mix-ups A further valuable innovation with Quantum 4.0 is the Blend Mix-up option, which now enables mills to identify mixups of different types of raw materials. This long-awaited market request detects any wrong raw material in greige and white yarns, combating the infamous, but serious, barré effect in fabrics. Cop mixups can happen in mills, since differences are hardly visible to the human eye. But Quantum 4.0 stops the problem before it becomes an issue, thanks to significantly improved hardware and software – all underpinned by the Smart Duo. The higher processing power of the new sensors brings additional benefits such as the enhanced Continuous Core Yarn option, which detects both missing and off-center core continuously. Innovations in Quantum 4.0 also focus on contamination, with deeper analysis of polypropylene and foreign matter. A new PP classification gives users the overview of polypropylene content, while the Advanced FD classification now shows extra classes below the 5% lines. Both these features add to the value of the contamination function, together with Total Contamination Control (TCC).

Quantum 4.0 gives spinners the ultimate confidence through the intelligent interaction of capacitive and optical sensor technology. It achieves ‘one of a kind’ security levels in basic clearing, while also cutting only what’s necessary.

Prevention pays off As well as identifying defects at winding, preventing defects at source is also in focus with the clearer’s new Expert System. The new Quantum Expert is now included in the product offering. Thanks to many added intelligent analytical features, the Uster Quantum Expert enhances process control and prevention of defects, through Total Contamination Control, Ring Spinning Optimization and the RSO 3D Value Module. Latest innovations in the new clearer protect spinners from claims and waste – but enabling business success is the real purpose of Quantum 4.0. Latest clearing technologies work with Uster’s unique data analysis to enable flexible databased decisions using Application Intelligence. “Failure prevention is the key to success and tackling issues at source is the way to do it. Uster Quantum 4.0 plays an important role in this, offering options to strengthen it,” says Hofer.

Secure and user-friendly The secret of true innovation is how well it is designed through to the point of user interaction. No matter how much data – in terms of quantity and different parameters – is collected for analysis, Uster Quantum Expert manages the complexity, while staying as intuitive as ever. With Quantum 4.0, a new central Smart-Limit button enhances flexibility, since operators can adjust all available smart limits with a single tap, based on the unique Yarn Body concept. Each individual limit can be simply fine-tuned as preferred. Users enjoy the established Quantum workflows and embrace the new customer-centered user interface with a 16:9 touchscreen on the 7th generation control units`. Nothing gets in the way of success with this prevention strategy. Uster recognizes that today’s challenges are tough, can be overcome with prevention, security and flexibility on your side – and Quantum 4.0 on your winding machine.

Uster Quantum 4.0 – The connected yarn quality assurance system.

Swiss Review

Partnership extends vision for yarn contamination detection

Loptex Srl and Loepfe Brothers Ltd. have on March 09, 2021 announced a distinguished strategic collaboration targeted at further improving yarn quality and productivity for spinning mills. Both companies have a long track record supporting spinning industry customers with latest technology to improve their performance and profitability. Today, this new collaboration brings Loepfe’s YarnMaster Prisma and YarnMaster Zenit+ yarn clearers together with Loptex Exa and Centra sorters for a complete solution supplied by Loepfe. This integrated offering combines the advantages of eliminating contamination at the opening stages of production with additional refinement of the yarn further down the line at the winding stage. The net result for spinning mills is production of highest quality yarns while generating less waste, greater machine efficiency and less energy consumption.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2021

Renato Gerletti, CEO, Loptex.

Dr. Ralph Mennicke, CEO, Loepfe.

Loptex CEO Renato Gerletti commented:” We welcome this collaboration which harnesses the strengths of both the Loptex and Loepfe products for our customers. There are many synergies between the approaches of our two companies, not least of these being our dedication to using leading edge technology to deliver great results for spinning mills everywhere.” Loepfe CEO Dr. Ralph Mennicke added: “We are looking forward to working with the Loptex team. Next to our in-house R&D commitments, this is a complementary partnership that puts customer needs first and will deliver a vital combination of top quality and greater productivity to textile mills. As the industry emerges from one of the most difficult trading periods in living memory, we continue to be committed to rolling out new and innovative solutions over the months and years to come.”

Swiss Review

Graf AG offers card clothing with up to 30% longer lifetime Graf, one of the world’s leading suppliers of clothings and combs in the field of carding-, combing- and nonwovenprocesses, is a subsidiary of the Rieter Group. Graf, based in Rapperswil SG (Switzerland), creating customer value through system expertise, innovative solutions, after sales excellence and global presence. The manufacturing of flexible flat clothings, metallic card clothings for flatand roller cards, advanced combs – extensive know-how in metallurgy and in the precise processing of steel are core competencies of the company. The high level of vertical integration lays the foundation for the superior quality of Graf’s products and services. MULTISHARP, the unique wear resistant alloy for card clothings, increases the lifetime of metallic card clothings on the cylinder by up to 30%. Additionally, the work load of the maintenance team

can be minimized by providing longer service cycles and less unplanned downtimes. The yield on raw material can be increased without compromising the quality requirements – thanks to the continuous height adjustability of the new combs series. The continuous and exact gap setting between nipper and circular comb on each individual combing head provides customers a new level on raw material utilization. Additionally, the maintenance people will appreciate the comfortable and easy installation of the circular comb. With the card clothing management the overall investment costs can be

Graf multisharp card clothings.

reduced. This is based on minimizing the operational expenses including optimizing the overall equipment effectiveness. Graf’s card clothing management prolongs the lifetime of flexible flats by up to three times without comprising on the quality parameters throughout the entire life cycle.

BRÄCKER traveller with up to 50% longer lifetime and shorter running-in period Uncompromising quality and extensive industry knowledge make Bräcker the market leader in the manufacture and marketing of key components for ring spinning machines. This is evident not only in the wide range of excellent products but also in the distinctive competence of the staff to advise and provide solutions. The new CARBO traveller for ring spinning machines is specially designed for man-made fiber spinners. CARBO is a new coating technology

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - March 2021

which improves the sliding properties. This results in up to 50% longer lifetime and a shorter running-in period. Furthermore, the recommended applications next to man-made fibers are also their blends, core yarns and all yarn counts.

BRÄCKER CARBO Traveller.

In addition, Bräcker exhibits its well-known portfolio of high-quality products which meets the continually rising demands on the textile market like higher speeds and productivity. The rings and travellers offer long service lives, lowest yarn breaks and no thermal damages when processing man-made fibers.

Classified

ADVERTISERS INDEX

Archroma ..................................................................FC APR Sateri .................................................................27 AVM Chemicals ...................................................6 & 64 Biancalani .................................................................IFC Benninger..................................................................15 Chhipasons................................................................64 CCI USA.....................................................................1 DNG Brand Denge Kimya...........................................3 DyStar ........................................................................9 Graf...........................................................................23 iTextiles .....................................................................BC ITMA ASIA + CITME 2021 ........................................IBC IGATEX 2021 .............................................................61 Established 1951

ICADEX 2021.............................................................63 Jet Logistics................................................................64 Rastgar.............................................................. 25 & 64 SSM...........................................................................11

February 2021

Spinning Review

Pakistan Textile Journal, March-2021

Articles inside

Swiss weaving machinery manufacturers at forefront of novel applications

Partnership extends vision for yarn contamination detection

New Uster Quantum 4.0 yarn clearer offers spinners the best of both worlds

ROTORCRAFT offers NGD Next Generation Drafting

SSM offers Air-Covering Process for Spinning Corespun Yarns with a Dual Core

Santex presents ground-breaking stenter, combines top performance

EspriTech specializes in automated textile folding machinery

We are hopeful and reasonably confident that textile business will flourish with the present boom.” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Archroma Awards and achievements

Retech Godet rolls made to meet topmost expectations

Archroma celebrates 3 years of working with aniline-free(1) Indigo heroes

Rieter: Ring and Rotor Spinning of Recycled Fibers

Water-Saving Dyeing Process for Denim and Casual Wear

Benninger Machines and systems for textile finishing solutions