Pakistan Textile Journal, May 2022 by Pakistan Textile Journal

Established 1951 May 2022

German Review / Techtextil 2022 / ITM 2022

Calendar of Events

FESPA 2022 Dates: May 31st to June 3rd 2022. Venue: Berlin, Germany.

INTEX SOUTH ASIA 2022 th

Dates: June 16 to 18

2022.

Venue: Dhaka, Bangladesh.

Cinte Techtextil China International Trade Fair for Technical Textiles and Nonwovens Dates: September 6th to 8th, 2022.

Dates: July 27 to 29

2022.

Venue: Colombo, Sri Lanka.

Venue: Shanghai New International Expo Centre, Shanghai, China

Dates: December 8th to 10th 2022. Venue: New Delhi, India.

ITM 2022 Dates: June 14th to 18th, 2022.

ITMA ASIA + CITME 2022

Venue: Istanbul, Turkey.

Dates: November 20th to 24th, 2022. Venue: NECC, Shanghai, China.

Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles Dates: August 15th to 17th 2022.

HIGHTEX 2022

Venue: Shanghai, China.

DOMOTEX Hannover 2023

Dates: June 14 to 18 , 2022.

Dates: January 12th to 15th 2023.

Venue: Istanbul, Turkey.

Venue: Hannover, Germany.

Techtextil 2022, Frankfurt

DOMOTEX asiaCHINAFLOOR 2022

Dates: June 21st to 24th, 2022

Dates: August 31th to Sep. 2nd 2022.

Venue: Frankfurt am Main.

Venue: NECC, Shanghai, China.

Istanbul Yarn Fair Dates: February 16th to 18th 2023. Venue: Istanbul, Turkey.

Heimtextil 2022, Frankfurt Dates: June 21st to 24th, 2022 Venue: Frankfurt am Main.

IGATEX Pakistan 2022, Lahore Dates: September 1st to 4th 2022. Venue: Expo Centre, Lahore.

Texworld Paris th

iCADEX Pakistan 2022, Lahore th

Dates: July 4 to 6

2022.

Venue: Paris

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2022

Index 2023 Dates: April 18th to 21th, 2023. Venue: Palexpo, Geneva, Switzerland.

ITMA 2023

Dates: September 1st to 4th 2022.

Dates: June 8th to 14th, 2023.

Venue: Expo Centre, Lahore.

Venue: Milan, Italy.

Founded in 1951 by Mazhar Yusuf (1924-2009) Vol. LXXI No. 05 May 2022

Publisher Nadeem Mazhar Editor in Chief Amina Baqai Associate Editor Dr. Noor Ahmed Memon

Rs. 565.00

EDITOR’S PAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 German companies remain strong partners for Pakistan’s textile industry

TEXTILE BRIEFS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Associate Editor Nimrah Nadeem Associate Editor Shahnawaz Khan Production Manager Mazhar Ali

NEWS & VIEWS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 AROUND THE WORLD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 CORPORATE NEWS

Hony-Editorial Board

ANDRITZ to supply a second Needlepunch Line to MANIFATTURA FONTANA . . . .17

Dr. Hafizur Rehman Sheikh Ph.D (UK) F.T.I. (UK)

Syed Mahfooz Qutab C.TEX, F.T.I (U.K), B.Sc. Fellow I.C.T.T Atlanta, GA; (USA)

Mian Iftkhar Afzal B.S.N.C State, M.Sc. (Leeds) C.TEXT.F.T.I (UK)

Dr. Zubair Bandukda PhD (Textiles), CText ATI

Editorial & Advertising Office B-4, 2nd Floor, 64/21, M.A.C.H, Miran M. Shah Road, Karachi - Pakistan Tel: +92-21-34311674-5 Fax: +92-21-34533616 Email: info@ptj.com.pk URL: http://www.ptj.com.pk

PTJ Europe Ltd. Correspondence & Mailing address: PTJ Europe Ltd. 93 Fleming Place, Bracknell, RG12 2GN, United Kingdom Tel: +44 792 2228 721 Registered Office: Dairy House, Money Row Green, Holyport, Maidenhead, Berkshire, SL6 2ND, UK Registered no. 09141989

Available on Gale and Factiva affiliated international databases through Asianet Pakistan

Printed at: Color Plus Korangi, Karachi. Published by Nadeem Mazhar from D-16, K.D.A. Scheme No.1. Karachi.

PERSONALIA Association Director stands down from the BTMA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 Peter Zimmer passes away at 98 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 Eastman appoints general manager for its textiles business . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 Avery Dennison Names Deon Stander President and COO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

FEATURES Post Covid Fashion Trend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 MS Printing: Digital Textile Printing is the answer to sustainable production . . . . .24 Rieter: The Easy Way to Upgrade Your Yarn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 CCI: Trust in a Smarter Cotton Future . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28

34 30 GERMAN REVIEW Oerlikon Barmag celebrates 100th anniversary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 TC 19i outperforms competitor’s card in head-to-head trials . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 Brückner: Investment in BRÜCKNER ensures high quality and efficient production .36 ARTE EN DENIM extends its machine park with BRÜCKNER POWER FRAME . . . . .39 VDMA: Dr. Janpeter Horn New Chairperson of Textile Machinery Association . . .40 Growing Together: The Karl Mayer group Turns 85 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 Monforts: Real energy savings are more important than ever . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Setex: Measurement of characteristic fabric-design parameters . . . . . . . . . . . .44 DiloGroup highlights production technologies with a focus on needle felts . . . .46 AUTEFA Solutions - committed to technology that is both innovative . . . . . . . .48 Saurer TechnoCorder TC2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49

Mahlo to present variety of solutions at ITM 2022 in Istanbul . . . . . . . . . . . . .49

TECHTEXTIL 2022 Techtextil, Texprocess and Heimtextil : Re-start for global textiles fairs in Frankfurt .50 VDMA: Next Stop Techtextil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54 Swiss Textile Machinery makes its mark in the expanding world of technical textiles .56 TMAS, the Swedish Textile Machinery Association . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58 ACIMIT shows technical & innovative solutions with 29 companies . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60 BMS Vision: Wide range of systems aimed at productivity, quality . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61 FET highlights laboratory and pilot melt spinning equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62 Lenzing Instruments presents innovative testing systems for optimum quality . . . . . .63

ITM ISTANBUL 2022 Leading Brands of Textile Technologies to Make their World Launch at ITM 2022 . .64 Monforts: Spotlight on the Montex stenter at ITM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .68 Picanol to present latest weaving machines at ITM Istanbul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70 Oerlikon: Energy-efficient manmade fiber systems for the Turkish market . . . .71 Rieter presents Autoconer X6 is the key machine for highest efficiency . . . . . .72 USTER: Controlling contamination: it starts at the beginning… . . . . . . . . . . . . .74 Stäubli at ITM 2022 – Solutions delivering greater benefits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .76 Savio presents strong portfolio to maximize machinery return on investment . .78 E+L: New inspection technologies for improved production processes . . . . . . .79

56 68

EDITOR’S PAGE

German companies remain strong partners for Pakistan’s textile industry Germany has been a prominent trading partner of Pakistan and has always extended its support for the betterment of the country in both commercial and social sectors. Pakistan’s textile industry owes a great deal to the innovative technological solutions provided by German textile machinery suppliers over the last seven decades. Several German companies have been instrumental in laying down the foundation of Pakistan’s textile industry. German textile machinery manufacturers have left their mark on our textile industry, from spinning, weaving, finishing and knitting to textile chemicals and accessories. From the archives of Pakistan Textile Journal, we can determine a clear timeline of the German Pakistan relations in this vital economic sector of Pakistan. Schlafhorst, Suessen, Truetzschler, Zinser are the brands that Pakistan’s industry embraced in the spinning sector, while in the weaving sector technology companies such as Dornier made their mark. In the development of textile finishing sector several names such as Brueckner, Monforts, OsthoffSenge, Goller, Brueckner, Thies and Andritz are most active and very well respected in Pakistan. In addition, Groz Beckert, Mayer & Cie, Stoll and Karl Mayer are renowned for their knitting technologies. These companies have a solid commitment to Pakistan and serve this market through extensive aftersales support.

Established 1951 May 2022

German Review / Techtextil 2022 / ITM 2022

May 2022.

Many decades ago, these German companies helped determine the future of the textile industry of Pakistan. They continue to provide the best sustainable technologies to the industry to meet new challenges to achieve even higher value addition in new areas such as technical and functional textiles. These innovative technologies are on display for the industry at three exhibitions in June. The first one is ITM Istanbul held from 14-18 June, where 113 German companies participate with a wide range of solutions for the textile industry.

Suessen (PTJ 1956).

Techtextil and Texprocess 2022 are the other two exhibitions for technical textiles and value addition in the garment sector. They are planning a strong re-start with over 1,300 exhibitors from 51 countries to present the high degree of innovation in the industry. Our textile industry benefitted tremendously from the prowess of German technology in its early years. The innovative solutions provided by the German companies, include new applications that hold remarkable opportunities for our textile sector to venture into the highest value-added technical textiles that will be in demand in the future. The addition of technical textiles will open new vistas for those companies that are willing to take on the future challenge. Techtextil exhibition will showcase the best innovative textiles as well as the technology needed to produce them. German companies remain at the forefront of providing solutions for technical textiles, including some of our earliest advertisers from Germany who are still with us through advertising as well as editorials in our publication.

Karl Mayer (PTJ 1958).

Monforts (PTJ 1956).

Schlafhorst (PTJ 1956).

Truetzschler (PTJ 1964).

Textile Briefs National

Pakistani cotton experts expressed confidence in the development of local cotton-related industry and yarn export to China as well as other parts of the world, which is increasing every year despite the Covid19 pandemic. China imported more than US$168 million worth of cotton yarn from Pakistan in the first three months of this year.

Despite a decrease in import of cotton and other raw materials, Pakistan has to pay 25 % more on imports of textile group commodities due to higher international prices in the first nine months of the fiscal year 2021-22.

On the 70th anniver-

sary of Japan-Pakistan diplomatic relations,

Japanese Prime Minister Kishida Fumio has expressed the resolve to further increase bilateral relations in the days ahead .In a message, he congratulated his Pakistani counterpart, Shehbaz Sharif, for assuming the PM's office, and wished him success. Textile owners have

asked the government to provide sales tax

incentives, saying a relief would benefit the industry as well as the country’s economy. Naveed Qamar to discuss issues related to the

industry, where the minister assured of his full support to textile owners.

years, thanks to key manufacturing industries that gave promising outputs.

Pakistan’s Generalised Scheme of Preferences (GSP+) status is about to end in December 2023, but the country is yet to take full advantage of the scheme. Contrary to the objective of GSP+ status, i.e. trade diversification, Pakistan is heavily relying on only textiles to date.

Pakistan’s Textile group exports during JulyApril, 2021- 2022 hit a record high of US$15.981 billion against US$12.688 billion during the corresponding period of last year showing an increase of 25.96 percent, says Pakistan Bureau of Statistics (PBS).

Pakistan’s large-scale manufacturing (LSM) production increased 10.4 percent in July-March 2021-22, the fastest threequarter growth rate in 17

The Peshawar High Court (PHC) has directed the Sui Northern Gas Pipeline Company (SNGPL) to ensure uninterrupted gas supply to textile mills.

Textile Briefs International

The Australian Wool Production Forecasting Committee (AWPFC) has updated its forecast of shorn wool production for the 2021-22 season to 314 million kilograms (Mkg) greasy, a 6.5 percent increase on 2020-21 estimated shorn wool production of 294 Mkg greasy.

Since the readymade garment sector of Bangladesh is a significant export-oriented industry, diplomacy has an important and direct bearing on the sector’s sustenance and overall growth.

In the period, the added value of textile firms with annual operating revenue of at least 20 million yuan (about 3.15 million U.S. dollars) climbed 6.7 percent year on year, accord-

3 8

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2022

ing to the MIIT. MIIT data also showed China’s textile exports from January to February rose 11.9 percent year on year to 24.7 billion U.S. dollars. In 2021, EU exports of textile and clothing articles increased by 10.6 percent, while imports dipped by 7.5 percent, as per the EURATEX spring report which offers a detailed insight into trade figures for the European textile and apparel industry in 2021. The numbers for 2021 are encouraging when compared with the dramatic coronayear 2020.

Cotton yarn prices increased by INR 5 per kg in Ludhiana and Delhi markets because of better demand and rate hikes by spinning mills. North

India’s cotton yarn market remained bullish today due to better buying. The country’s textile industry especially unique and creative fabrics such as weaving and batik have great potential to bring the nation to the international stage and become a profitable commodity, said Prime Minister Datuk Seri Ismail Sabri Yaakob.

Philippines’ Department of Science and Technology’s (DOST) Secretary, Fortunato de la Peña, recently announced that a regional yarn production and innovation center (RYPIC) will soon rise in Ilagan, Isabela.

Apparel exports from Turkey increased by 18.06 percent year-on-year in

January-March 2022, according to the data from the Turkish Statistical Institute and the country’s ministry of trade. Consumers accustomed to inflation continued to spend in April 2022 as retail sales in the US overcame higher prices to show both monthly and year-over-year (YoY) increases, the National Retail Federation (NRF) said.

Vietnam-UK trade has recovered from the impact of the pandemic, reaching nearly US$6.6 billion at the end of last year—up by 17 percent from the previous year, according to the ministry of industry and trade. Vietnam’s exports to the United Kingdom exceeded US$5.7 billion—up by 16.4 percent year on year.

News & Views

Yarn exports to China reach $168m Pakistani cotton experts expressed confidence in the development of local cotton-related industry and yarn export to China as well as other parts of the world, which is increasing every year despite the Covid-19 pandemic. According to the General Administration of Customs of the People’s Republic of China (GACC), data showed that China imported more than $168 million worth of cotton yarn from Pakistan in the first three months of this year. Uncombed single cotton yarn, containing 85% or above, crossed $133 million in the first quarter of 2022. Data showed that the export of cotton yarn (commodity code 52051100) from Pakistan to China crossed $33.30 million, while last year in the same period it was $34.06 million. The export of uncombed cabled cotton yarn to China crossed $1.50 million. In the first quarter of 2022, more than 51,147.28 tons of cotton yarn was imported from Pakistan. As affected by Covid-19, last year the import of cotton yarn was more in terms of quantity and value. Ministry of National Food Security and Research’s Pakistan Central Cotton

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2022

Committee (PCCC) Director Dr Tasawwar Hussain Malik told China Economic Net that price is the main reason for cotton yarn export, and both farmers and exporters get a good price advantage from China. He added that Pakistan has top quality cotton because manual picking ensures its quality. Experts believe that cotton plant protection is still a big challenge to cotton production and authorities need to take it seriously while about 20% of the cotton crop/ production is lost on a yearly basis. They said that in the last five years following are the reasons for damaged cotton crops – PBW (10-15%), white fly (10-12%), other insects (5-6%), cotton leaf curl disease (CLCuD) (10-15%), and insects disease complex (40-45%). They added that streamlining seed trait technologies for insect resistance and strengthening national and provincial plant protection systems are required while back-to-back heavy rainfall spells in 2019 and 2020 created drainage problems in Sindh where around one million bales are damaged each year.

group commodities due to higher international prices in the first nine months of the fiscal year 2021-22. According to statistics issued by the Pakistan Bureau of Statistics, the total value of imports of the textile group in first nine months of the fiscal year 202122 was recorded at $ 3,499.68 million which is 25.59 percent higher than the corresponding period of the fiscal year 2020-21. Import volume of the textile group remained $ 2,786.5 million in JulyMach 2020-21. The PBS data shows that the import of raw cotton, synthetic fiber, and synthetic and artificial silk yarn decreased in terms of quantity during the period under review while the value of the import recorded increase due to higher prices of the commodities in the international market.

Import’s bill of Pakistan’s textile group increases by 25%

During three quarters of the current fiscal year, 533,871 metric tons of raw cotton worth $1,205.47 million were imported while in the corresponding period of the previous year 624,945 metric tons of raw cotton worth $1,032.08 million were imported showing 14.57% decrease in terms of quantity while 16.8 percent increase in terms of value.

Despite a decrease in import of cotton and other raw materials, Pakistan has to pay 25 % more on imports of textile

The same trend was seen in the import of synthetic fiber as its quantity slid down 15.85 percent to 291,364 MT

News & Views from 346,248 MT while import value rose 27.51 percent from $ 440.986 million to $ 562.281 million. Import of synthetic and artificial silk yarn has recorded a 30 percent increase in value while a 7.64 percent decline in quantity as 293,191 MT of synthetic and artificial silk yarn worth $ 650.219 million were imported during the first 9 months of 2021-22 while 317,440 MT of the same commodity worth $ 499.788 million were purchased from abroad during JulyMarch 2020-21. Meanwhile, import of worn clothing recorded a 56.87 and 66.47 percent increase in terms of both quantity and value respectively. As per PBS data 764,139 MT of worn clothing worth $341.319 million were imported during the period as compared to 487,107 MT of worn clothing having a value of $205 million last year.

i.e. trade diversification, Pakistan is heavily relying on only textiles to date.

Pakistan yet to take full advantage of GSP+

For the continuation of GSP+ status beyond 2023, Pakistan would need to make a fresh application seeking extension of the scheme, underlined the Pakistan Businesses Forum (PBF).

Pakistan’s Generalised Scheme of Preferences (GSP+) status is about to end in December 2023, but the country is yet to take full advantage of the scheme. Contrary to the objective of GSP+ status,

The European Union (EU) has recently announced that the countries must commit to implementing 32 EU conventions against the current 27 conventions, in order to qualify for the

GSP+ status (2024-34). “Now, we need to present strong evidence of progress made since the last report,” the PBF said, adding, “It has to be tangible with visible effects on the ground in order to convince the EU lawmakers about Pakistan’s commitment to the conventions.” PBF Vice President Ahmad Jawad was of the view that there was no institutional support from the government despite getting concessions on around 6,300

News & Views items under the GSP+ status. The country was unable to take full advantage of the facility, he said. “The textile sector was able to Mr. Ahmad Jawad; Vice increase President PBF exports, but the potential for exports from other sectors like agriculture and other items was not tapped,” he said, adding that even the horticulture sector, despite fulfilling EU’s requirements, was not able to capture the European markets. Envoys from different European countries on regular intervals urged the local businessmen to tap the potential sectors under the extended facility. “We have not taken the advantage in a way we could have taken from the GSP+ scheme,” Jawad lamented. There was a lack of proper export strategy for the EU, he pointed out. “Ideally, we should have identified a marketing strategy with roadshows as Europe is a very big market,” he said. “Our ministries and foreign missions did not work on this front,” he argued. Jawad noted that there was a lot of focus on promoting textiles, owing to which other sectors like leather, halal meat and jewellery were neglected. Exports to the EU are dominated by textiles and clothing, which accounted for 75.2% of Pakistan’s total exports to the EU in 2020. From 2010-20, EU imports from Pakistan almost doubled from euro3,072 million to euro5,537 million. “The growth in imports from Pakistan accelerated particularly after the award of GSP+ status (euro 5,515 million in 2014).”

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2022

LSM grows 10.4pc in July-Mar FY22, highest since FY2006 Pakistan’s large-scale manufacturing (LSM) production increased 10.4 percent in July-March 2021-22, the fastest threequarter growth rate in 17 years, thanks to key manufacturing industries that gave promising outputs. Broad-based expansion was seen during these nine months. Major manufacturing sectors, including textile, food, beverages and tobacco, automobile, chemicals, apparel, and iron and steel, gave a promising performance in output. Leather products and paper and paperboard also increased their outputs. However, pharmaceuticals, electrical equipment, and rubber products declined compared to over a year ago. Interestingly, during these nearly two decades, LSM growth in FY2009, FY19, and FY20 went underwater, while other fiscals gave small growths. LSM output grew to 26.6 percent in March 2022 over the corresponding month a year ago and an 8.2 percent expansion over the previous month, showing a healthy performance in almost all categories, the Pakistan Bureau of

Statistics (PBS) reported recently. Figures are calculated while considering fiscal year 2015/16 as the base year. In Pakistan, the large industries occupy four-fifths of the country’s manufacturing sector, which contributes 12.79 percent to the gross domestic product (GDP) and employs 16.1 percent of the country’s labour force. The manufacturing industry consists of LSM, small-scale manufacturing, and slaughtering. According to official documents of the Finance Ministry, LSM contributed 9.73 percent to GDP, small scale manufacturing (SSM) with 2.12 percent, and slaughtering contributed 0.94 percent in FY21. During July-March FY22, the food sector grew 11.7 percent, beverages 0.7 percent, tobacco 16.7 percent, textiles 3.2 percent, wearing apparel 34 percent, leather products 1.5 percent, wood products 157.5 percent, paper and board 8.5 percent, coke and petroleum products 2 percent, all chemicals 7.8 percent (in which chemical products output was up 15.2 percent and fertilisers 3.3 percent).

AUSTRALIA Australian wool production forecast updated to 314 Mkg for 2021-22 The Australian Wool Production Forecasting Committee (AWPFC) has updated its forecast of shorn wool production for the 2021-22 season to 314 million kilograms (Mkg) greasy, a 6.5 percent increase on 2020-21 estimated shorn wool production of 294 Mkg greasy. The average cut per head is expected to increase by 3.2 percent to 4.54 kg greasy. AWPFC chairman, Stephen Hill said, “Abundant summer feed in many major wool producing regions together with an early break to the season continues to

favor sheep and wool production.” Australian sheep producers are continuing to rebuild the flock with an expected 3.1 percent increase in the number of sheep shorn to 69 million head during 2021-22. New South Wales continues to have the largest sheep flock with 22.35 million sheep shorn resulting in-state production of 103.9 Mkg greasy. Interstate transfers and sheep slaughter from Western Australia have returned to normal levels, indicating a rebuild in their sheep flock, Australian Wool Innovation Limited said in a media release. The AWPFC’s first forecast of shorn wool production for the 2022-23 season is 321 Mkg greasy, a 2.9 percent increase on the 2021-22 forecast because of modest increases in the number of sheep shorn (up 2.8 percent).

BANGLADESH Bangladesh apparel diplomacy gains momentum Since the readymade garment sector of Bangladesh is a significant exportoriented industry, diplomacy has an important and direct bearing on the sector’s sustenance and overall growth. With competition growing worldwide, the role of a diplomatic service exclusively for the RMG industry has never been more urgent than it is today because of the imminent graduation of Bangladesh from the least-developed country (LDC) category to the grouping of the developing countries. Ironically, the economic success of Bangladesh could become an enemy of sorts to itself because it will no longer be the underdog expecting or receiving special considerations. The RMG industry, in particular, has grown to become a world leader and requires a fresh approach to building on the success achieved. Astute, planned, and relentless diplomacy will go a long way in helping us retain and extend market access facilities in the post-LDC era. Besides, economic diplomacy is imperative for exploring new markets and new avenues for profitable growth. With this understanding and vision in mind, the present board of the

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2022

Around the World

Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) has launched its brand of economic diplomacy entitled ‘apparel diplomacy’ to meet the challenges ahead. Apparel diplomacy aims to leverage the power of diplomacy for the betterment of the industry and benefit the millions of Bangladeshis employed in the sector. As part of the apparel diplomacy, we are striving tirelessly with our professional team as well as through our missions abroad. With the support of our government, the BGMEA is making concerted efforts so that the RMG sector can achieve greater success. This will increase the industry’s profits handsomely and bring greater prosperity to the nation.

CHINA China’s textile sector notches steady growth in the first two months China’s textile industry posted robust growth in the first two months of this year, data from the Ministry of Industry and Information Technology (MIIT) showed. In the period, the added value of textile firms with annual operating revenue of at least 20 million yuan (about 3.15 million U.S. dollars) climbed 6.7 percent year on year, according to the MIIT. The operating revenue of the aforementioned firms totaled 706.9 billion yuan, increasing by 13.5 percent from the same period a year ago. Profits of these companies came in at 24.8 billion yuan, down 1.8 percent year on

year. MIIT data also showed China’s textile exports from January to February rose 11.9 percent year on year to 24.7 billion U.S. dollars.

EUROPEAN UNION EU's exports of textiles and clothing articles went up by 10.6% in 2021 In 2021, EU exports of textile and clothing articles increased by 10.6 percent, while imports dipped by 7.5 percent, as per the EURATEX spring report which offers a detailed insight into trade figures for the European textile and apparel industry in 2021. The numbers for 2021 are encouraging when compared with the dramatic corona-year 2020. As a result, the EU trade deficit improved, even though it remains significant (-Euro48 billion). Furthermore, import prices went slightly down in clothing and dropped in textiles, following a strong decrease in Chinese import prices of face masks and protective medical supplies, as per the report. The boost in exports was mainly due to strong performance in the Swiss, Chinese, and US markets. On the other side, EU sales of textile & clothing to the United Kingdom fell sharply (-23 percent), due to Brexit new requirements, customs delays, and a shortage of truck drivers. Imports from the EU's top supplier, China, plunged by -28 percent, corresponding to euro13 billion. Similarly, textile and clothing imports from the United Kingdom recorded a sharp decrease over the period (-48 percent, equal to -euro3 billion).

“The 2021 export figures, presented in this Spring report, confirm that EURATEX members have gained momentum; even if energy prices are causing some serious short-term disruptions, our long-term ambition remains to be a world leader in sustainable textiles,” director general Dirk Vantyghem said. The international trade dimension is indeed critical for the competitiveness of the European textile ecosystem and needs to be fully embedded in the EU’s strategy for sustainable and circular textiles. The commission insists that “all textile products placed on the EU market, are durable, free of hazardous substances, produced respecting social standards”. This is an essential condition to create a level playing field between all textile and apparel companies, regardless of their production base. With euro100 billion of imports and over 20 billion of 'foreign' textile items put on the single market, this requires a dramatic upscaling of market surveillance, without however disrupting fluid supply chains.

PHILIPPINE The Philippines to open a regional yarn innovation center in Ilagan Philippines’ Department of Science and Technology’s (DOST) Secretary, Fortunato de la Peña, recently announced that a regional yarn production and innovation center (RYPIC) will soon rise in Ilagan, Isabela. In a report, he said the RYPIC will be located at the Isabela State University (ISU), and its faculty and staff will run the center.

Around the World He also mentioned the staff and faculty underwent a five-day training last month at the DOST-Philippine Textile Research Institute (PTRI) in Bicutan, Taguig. The training is part of the capability-building component of the RYPIC north Luzon project under the "DOST–PTRI Inclusive Innovation TELA (Textile Empowering Lives Anew)" program. Participants also gained knowledge and skills on how fibers are converted to yarns in the cotton system. "The training provided the participants with knowledge of textile raw materials and products, the process of textile manufacture, and techniques for testing and evaluating their common properties," De la Peña said.

TURKEY Turkey's apparel exports rise 18% in January-March 2022 Apparel exports from Turkey increased by 18.06 percent year-on-year in January-March 2022, according to the data from the Turkish Statistical Institute and the country’s ministry of trade. During the first three months of the current year, Turkey exported apparel worth $4.91 billion, compared to exports of $4.16 billion during the same period of 2021. Category-wise, exports of knitted and crocheted clothing and accessories (HS chapter 61) earned $2.730 billion in January-March 2022, registering a growth of 17.2 percent over $2.330 billion earned during the same months of the previous year. Exports of non-knitted apparel and accessories (HS chapter 62) were valued at $2.181 billion, showing an increase of

19.2 percent compared to $1.829 billion in exports made in January-March 2021. Exports of old clothing and other textile articles and rags (HS chapter 63) also grew by 7.6 percent year on year to $777.684 million during the period under discussion. However, exports of carpets, mats matting, and tapestries (HS chapter 57) fell by 7.1 percent to $723.676 million during the three months. Meanwhile, Turkey's imports of cotton, cotton yarn, and cotton textiles (HS chapter 52) increased by a sharp 93.7 percent to $1312.987 million, over $677.974 million in the first three months of 2021. Likewise, man-made filament (HS chapter 54) imports too shot up by 85.9 percent year-on-year to $856.687 million, the data showed.

USA US clothing retail sales up 11.2% YoY in April 2022 Consumers accustomed to inflation continued to spend in April 2022 as retail sales in the US overcame higher prices to show both monthly and year-over-year (YoY) increases, the National Retail Federation (NRF) said. Clothing and clothing accessory store sales were up 0.8 percent month over month (MoM) seasonally adjusted and up 11.2 percent unadjusted YoY in April. Online and other non-store sales were up 2.1 percent MoM seasonally adjusted and up 11.3 percent unadjusted YoY, according to a survey report. The US Census Bureau said overall retail sales in April were up 0.9 percent seasonally adjusted from March and up 8.2 percent YoY. That compared with increases of 1.4 percent MoM and 7.3 percent YoY in March. NRF’s calculation of retail sales – which excludes automobile dealers, gasoline stations, and restaurants to focus on core retail – showed April was up 0.9 percent seasonally adjusted from March

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and up 6.4 percent unadjusted YoY. In March, sales were up 1 percent MoM and up 3.9 percent YoY. NRF’s numbers were up 7.1 percent unadjusted YoY on a three-month moving average as of April. “April retail sales demonstrate consumer strength and willingness to spend despite persistent inflation, supply chain constraints, market volatility, and global unrest,” NRF President and CEO Matthew Shay said. “While consumers are facing higher prices, they are preserving their budgets by shopping smart. Retail businesses are also facing increased costs like higher energy bills and rents as well as the cost of goods, transportation, and wages. Despite already tight margins, retailers remain committed to their customers and are doing everything they can to absorb these costs to keep products affordable. With the Federal Reserve already raising interest rates, the Biden administration and Congress have an opportunity to provide targeted relief to American households by lifting the China tariffs, passing legislation to fix the supply chain, and addressing immigration reform to ease the tight labor market.”

VIETNAM Vietnam's exports to the UK up by 16.4% YoY in 2021 Vietnam-UK trade has recovered from the impact of the pandemic, reaching nearly $6.6 billion at the end of last year—up by 17 percent from the previous year, according to the ministry of industry and trade. Vietnam’s exports to the United Kingdom exceeded $5.7 billion—up by 16.4 percent year on year. The rise is attributed to the UK-Vietnam Free Trade Agreement (UKVFTA) that took effect in August 2020. The country exported more than $4.8 billion worth of goods to the United Kingdom in the first four months of 2022. Textiles and garments were part of major currency earners, a news agency reported. Sharp growth was seen in shipments of fruits and vegetables (67 percent), coffee (17 percent), pepper (49 percent), iron and steel (1,269 percent), and toys and sports equipment (19 percent). Meanwhile, imports from the United Kingdom rose by 23.6 percent to nearly $850 million last year.

ANDRITZ card in operation at Manifattura Fontana in Romano d’Ezzelino, Italy © ANDRITZ

ANDRITZ to supply a second Needlepunch Line to MANIFATTURA FONTANA ANDRITZ has received an order from Italy-based Manifattura Fontana, part of Sioen Group, to supply a complete neXline needlepunch line for the production of geotextiles to its site in Romano d’Ezzelino, Italy. Start-up of the line is planned for the fourth quarter of 2022. The Andritz needlepunch line will cover all process steps from fiber opening to automatic packaging of the product. The line will also include the latest ProWin profiling technology to enhance web weight evenness on cards and

crosslappers. Another important feature is waterproof roll packaging, which is increasingly in demand on the market. Thus, Manifattura Fontana will be one of the very few players in the world to deliver fabric rolls with waterproof protection. This will be the second line in only three years to be supplied by Andritz to Manifattura Fontana, which is one of the fastest growing geotextiles producers in Europe and well known for the high quality of its products as well as its customer focus.

ANDRITZ needlelooms © ANDRITZ

The customer trusted once again in Andritz thanks to the success story of the first production line. Orwig Speltdoorn, head of the Nonwovens Division of the Sioen group, said: “Operating the Andritz line turned out to be a great success because of the excellent cooperation between our two companies. The followup on progress and training by the ANDRITZ technicians quickly put our operators at ease with the new technology. With the second line, we are confident that the plant will become the most productive and cost-efficient unit, producing geotextile nonwoven fabrics of the highest quality standards.” Manifattura Fontana is part of the Belgium-based technical textile group Sioen Industries. The company provides its customers with added-value geotextiles for many applications, such as the construction of roads, railways, reservoirs, dams, and tunnels, as well as for earthworks, foundations, erosion control, drainage, waste disposal, or containment. The company belongs to the Belgian Sioen Industries Group, a leading producer of technical textiles in the global market with an annual turnover of more than 600 million euros and around 4,500 employees in plants located in 15 countries.

Personalia

Association Director stands down from the BTMA Alan Little, Association Director of the British Textile Machinery Association for almost 20 years, is standing down at the age of 79 and is leaving the Association. During his tenure at the BTMA he has managed and directed the Association, undeterred by a recession and a pandemic, through changing times and evolving markets and technologies; and representing the industry at government level. Educated at the University of Manchester Institute of Science and Technology as part of a University Apprenticeship Scheme in association with Mather and Platt Limited, Manchester, Alan graduated in Mechanical, Electrical, Process and Marine Engineering. Alan’s career in the

textile industry reaches across a remarkable seven decades; with over 45 of those years being spent in senior sales and marketing positions. Furthermore, he has organised participation and attended at every ITMA-branded exhibition since 1965 in Basle. He began full time employment at Mather & Platt in its Textile Machinery Design and Development Department in 1960 and was responsible for the design of bleaching, dyeing, printing and finishing machinery, as well as conducting technical audits at large textile complexes in North and Central African countries. By 1971, Alan became the company’s Sales Manager, responsible for textile machinery sales in the Middle East, North Africa, Asia, Asia Pacific, and China. In 1982 he became a founder member and director of Mather Machinery and took control of the sales and marketing of textile machinery in the UK, North Africa, Middle East, Asia and the Far East. In 1989 Alan joined David Bentley Limited, and became the Sales and

Technical Director responsible for the worldwide sales of calendar bowls and development of specialised rollers in the textile, paper, steel and automotive industries. In 1989 he also joined the Executive Committee of the BTMA, eventually taking over as the Association Director in 2003. Jason Kent, BTMA CEO adds: “Alan leaves the BTMA in prime condition for its onward journey. He has worked tirelessly both on the world stage and behind the scenes to help promote and market the BTMA members’ products and services. This has been on a day-to-day basis as well as long term strategy, such as organising much of the detail for many international trade exhibitions, seminars and missions.” Alan says that he is not ready to retire completely and will see what the future brings, however, in the meantime he will spend more time with his wife Anne and also try and find time to get his golf handicap back down to a single digit. 

Peter Zimmer passes away at 98 Peter Zimmer, former managing partner of Zimmer in Kufstein/Austria and the pioneer of modern textile printing, passed away in Kufstein at the age of 98. For more than 70 years until his death, Zimmer was occupied with new ideas for textile printing, inventing and developing processes and machines, leading the way for the entire textile printing industry. He began his career in his parents' business. The company was re-established in Kufstein in 1950 after the turmoil of World War II and displacement from Bohemia (now part of the Czech Republic). A large number of important developments, underpinned by corresponding patents, helped the company to strive and prosper within a very short period. Rotary screen printing, the magnetic roll rod system, directly patterned galvanic

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screens, rotary screen carpet printing with widths of up to 5 m and repeats of over 3 m as well as the first digital carpet inkjet printer, the Chromotronic, are associated with the name of Peter Zimmer. However, Peter Zimmer was not only a good developer, but also a valued consultant and salesman in all markets of the world with a focus on the Middle East, Pakistan, Bangladesh and India. During the last years of his life, Peter Zimmer worked intensively within his Peter Zimmer KG, Kufstein, on a new type of process for digital printing on fiber strands and sliver, with which reproducible color shades can be achieved by means of additive color.

Personalia

Eastman appoints general manager for its textiles business A success story written with passion, hard work and drive; Ruth Farrell has been named General Manager for Eastman’s Textiles Business. She is promoted to this position at Eastman, as of 1 April 2022, from her global marketing director role. Previously, a senior marketing leader at DuPont de Nemours, Ruth’s industry experience spans across Food Ingredients and Fibers where she specialized in marketing and

branding, developing new products, and creating new markets. Her passion lies in sustainability, and she believes that partner collaboration in the textiles industry can deliver exciting innovations while improving environmental footprints. Her motto at Naia™ is to make sustainable fashion accessible to all. “Ruth’s passion and tireless energy for Naia™ has led to growth, strong value chain partnerships and increased brand

Ruth Farrell General Manager, Textiles

awareness. It’s with great pleasure that we promote Ruth, whose inspiring leadership has been recognized during her time at Eastman,” said Burt Capel, President Fibers for Eastman. Based in Switzerland, Ruth holds an engineering degree from the University College Dublin and a master’s in business administration from Michael Smurfit School of Business, Dublin.

Avery Dennison Names Deon Stander President and COO

Avery Dennison Corp. today announced that Deon Stander has been appointed as president and COO, effective March 1, 2022.

responsible for the company’s global business operations, with all business unit leaders reporting to him. Mitch Butier continues as chairman and CEO

Stander, 53, has been the vice president and general manager of the company’s Retail Branding and Information Solutions (RBIS) division since June 2015, where he led a significant transformation of the business. In addition, as Avery Dennison’s sustainability leader, he has served as a key architect in shaping the company’s sustainability strategy and partnering across the company’s businesses to develop and implement an ambitious roadmap. As COO, Stander will be

“Deon has led the remarkable transformation of our RBIS business, establishing a strong foundation for profitable growth, and he has been an excellent thought partner at the enterprise level,” Butier said. “He is highly respected throughout the company for his exemplary vision, and I look forward to our continued partnership. This appointment reflects the next evolution of our leadership capabilities that will enable our continued success over the long term, as we

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2022

accelerate our strategies to deliver value for all of our stakeholders.” Stander joined Avery Dennison in 2007 as part of the acquisition of Paxar, where he had worked since 2003. Prior to being named vice president and general manager, RBIS, he served in a number of roles of increasing responsibility in positions based in Europe, Asia, and North America. He received his MBA from Lancaster University, England.

Features

Post Covid fashion trends Contributed by Itextiles team As we emerge from our time of isolation, it’s clear as water that we have all been changed by the pandemic and our clothing is yet another reminder of that unintended and undeniable transformation. The feeling of having old clothes feel at once too restrictive and too drab, too cumbersome, too inconvenient, too not-me or the casual feeling of “I’m different now makes sense that my clothing should be too”. This feeling is not unique, anecdotally, most of the people affected by the pandemic have expressed a similar dilemma, peek at the internet and you’ll find countless strangers confused about how to dress for their return to in-person work, if you go out on the town you would feel the vibrancy is on parade. With bright colors, florals, prints, and big silhouettes, after such a bewildering rollercoaster, it seems like everyone wants to dress happy, take up space, and present themselves as their true selves. Traditional work wear transcending to causal. Throughout history, big global events like war, disease, depression, and revolution have directly impacted what we wear. “The periods of greatest shifts in fashion are in line with great shifts in society,” Dasher noted. Some of those moments are easy to pinpoint: the glitz of the Roaring '20s after emerging from World War I and the Spanish flu; pants for women after the factory fashions of

World War II. Now casual sneakers on top of chinos with a shirt are considered wearable attire in an office. Most of the people who spent time working from home wearing casual attire as they spent 8 hours changed the perspective of not just the employees but also the employer of the company since then many businesses have changed their dress code from traditional office wear to casual. Today, major players like Apple, Google, & Quicken Loans have casual dress codes. That's trickling into traditional companies too as JP Morgan, IBM, BlackRock, Goldman Sachs, and General Electric have recently relaxed their dress code restrictions, as Silicon Valley culture has gone mainstream and relaxed dress

codes are a way to attract millennial top talent. Now the main question comes: Do casual clothes lead to a casual attitude, and in turn, less productivity? If you’re always dressed in “play mode,” is it harder to be focused, alert and productive? Not. Adam Glinsky, a professor at the Columbia Business School found that clothing does, indeed, affect performance to a certain extent. Why? It’s what Glinksy calls “enclothed cognition” clothing influencing performance, if you feel confident in the attire you are wearing, you’re likely to try harder and perform better at a specific task.

Comfortable wear is the new norm The "Netflix & Chill" concept is making people care less about the fear of missing out and more about the joy of missing out. In a lockdown, people had rediscovered the joy of staying inside, this period has given rise to a new apparel category: i.e., loungewear which can be worn outdoors as well as indoors, becoming a better choice for the environment by producing minimum waste. The next normal saw all kinds of sartorial revolutions and disruptions from Hollywood celebrities attending award galas in their PJs, to people ditching high heels and women giving up wearing makeup. The relationship one had with one’s wardrobe transformed completely.

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Features Staying at home, meant looking for comfort and more importantly, that’s easy to wash, iron, and get work ready.

Rise of dopamine dressing To offset the adverse effects of 2022, dopamine dressing has transpired for consumers to boost their moods through fashion. Endorphin-inducing colors (yellow, orange, green, pink, red & blue), summer camp jewelry, and psychedelic 70s prints are being injected into retailers’ upbeat assortments, resonating with Gen Z’s affinity with nostalgia and experimentation. Keep these bold hues and fun patterns in mind for summer designers showcased joyous colors and optimistic themes on the Fall 2022 runways confirming their longevity in the cooler months. The loungewear hype may be slowing down amid these new trends. However, consumers will still be vying for aspects of comfort in their wardrobes, buoyed by the Gen Z consumer, the softcore subculture perfectly meshes dopamine dressing with coziness to carry sweats into the postpandemic age. With the seasonal and cross-category appeal, it's a risk-free investment as softcore is a bonafide trend in home and streetwear. Tactile fabrications are key think terry toweling and teddy textures in pastel and neutral hues across knitwear & outerwear.

Sustainability a new emerging trend The Fashion industry has accelerated its commitment toward environmental sustainability, especially related to the elimination of hazardous chemicals, the reduction of CO2 emissions, and, also in the adoption of circular economy practices. This pandemic reveals the

vulnerability of global supply chains as countries restricted international trade, supply chain logistics were disrupted, and orders were canceled due to sudden diminishing orders. The new business framework compelled the whole industry to review its strategies and plans. According to States of Fashion 2022, today’s consumers are more inclined toward sustainable fashion products and after COVID the consumer is opting for more sustainable fashion than in the past. According to research, the principal factor of sustainability in fashion is the customer atop of other competition or environmental activists. Eco-friendly and sustainable fashion is the focus of every fashion designer. No doubt nonsustainable fashion will still be in demand but would become critical for brands to fulfill audience needs. Garments and accessories that can be reused in a different number of ways without missing fashion trends will be in demand in the post-COVID era.

Masks becoming a new way to express ourselves. Fashion always finds a way. Human beings are undaunted in their search for ways to stand out, communicate, to thrive in a treacherous environment. And so, the face mask once purely functional, once perceived as an exotic accessory has evolved at breakneck speed into something more. It’s more essential because the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention has recommended that people wear a mask when interacting with others. It’s more aesthetically pleasing but also a more complicated cultural proposition. As the countries around the world move toward reopening, masks are assuredly part of our future. And in some ways, their evolution is the perfect encapsulation of how much life has changed in a blink of an eye and how challenging, both intellectually and emotionally, it will be for us to go forward.

“The question about face masks is how will they morally change us? To some extent the answer depends on our motivation for wearing them,” says Liz Bucar, a professor of religion at Northeastern University. “If you are wearing a mask to protect yourself from others, you are forming a habit of fear. Every time you put a mask on, every time you see someone else wearing one, you will reinforce this fear. “But if you are wearing the mask to protect others, wearing it will create a feeling of connection to those in your community,” she says. “You’ll see others wearing masks as a sartorial sign that they are willing to sacrifice some freedom and comfort for the common good. There are masks for every taste and budget. Some are printed with Edvard Munch-like open-mouthed screams, goth masks mimic skeletal jaws. Disney is offering a preorder on four packs of masks featuring its signature characters. High-end versions are constructed from fine Italian fabrics that really should be hand-washed rather than thrown into the Maytag, others are covered in sequins. Some masks look to be so dense that they’d impede breathing; nonetheless, they’re stunning. Gamers’ leading lifestyle brand Razer has designed a face mask under “Project Hazel” which consists of N95 medical-grade respirator protection innovated using detachable and rechargeable active ventilators, smart pods that regulate airflow for optimal breathability and can filter at least 95 percent of airborne particles and highly resist fluid. The transparent device allows to see facial cues such as a smile or laugh and the interior neon light can automatically activate in the dark plus the built-in microphone and amplifier enhances the user’s speech for clear communication. 

Sustainability is a matter of actions, not of words. Digital Textile Printing is the answer This is what we think; and drives our day-to-day actions in helping the Textile Printing companies to implement a sustainable production chain. In 2011 – anticipating the times the Lario Singlepass digital printing machine was designed, which today is even more relevant than ever before, to reduce chemical waste, CO2 emissions, and water consumption.

printing technology combined with a partial reshoring of productions is the way to deal with the ongoing increase of logistics and process costs and prevent new supply chain disruption in future crises, choosing a sustainable high quality performing technology.

The pandemic has marked a turning point in the Textile Printing Industry.

Single-pass technology revives - in a modern twist - the conventional textile printing: print heads remain stationary while the fabric runs underneath by a rotating belt. It provides reliability and productivity close to the conventional ones so much that, today, 32 MS's Lario printing machines are working worldwide with a printing production speed up to 75 m/min.

Since 2020, the pandemic and market turbulence have radically changed the Textile market. One of the main effects of these events is the speed-up of the customers' migration from retail to online shopping, which implies an increasing pressure on the global supply-chain, due to the shorter time to market. Digital

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Fast, versatile, and sustainable, digital printing right fits the production needs of our time.

The online-shopping demand stands out for less re-order predictability and the collections' high customization. The single-pass tech perfectly fits these requests, even if printing runs decline has reduced the gap in production capacity compared to the last generation scanning machines. The Lario single pass makes the most out of printing heads' performance, offering high and constant productivity over time. This result has been possible thanks to the advancements in the development of print heads – last generation ones- and inks and the designing of customized inks and waveforms, thanks to the cooperation between MS and JK R&D Teams. The maintenance of a single-pass printing machine is as simple as it seems.

Features It is comparable to the last generation of digital scanning machines. A cleaning environment and regular maintenance assure the long life of printheads, electronic components, and the machine itself. Moreover, for Lario a multiple service set is conceived that helps to control costs and simplify the activities of the users, optimizing performance and return of investments. Lario benefits from the attention and recommendations for the inks through the JK Group service engineers. The multiple service set ensures the best production efficiency, maximizing profits. There are lots of reasons for preferring Digital Textile Printing. It is a faster, eco-friendly, and less costly process, without forgetting that the space to configure a digital printing department is around 3 times less than the one for a rotary or flat bad printing department. This is possible thanks to the shorter process: 7 working steps instead of the 14 (see diagram) required by the conventional printing process. It is fundamental to consider facts when making decisions in this regard. 6 good reasons for choosing digital textile printing technology are: 1. the water consumption is 60% less, and the energy consumption is 30% less compared to the standard rotary textile printing process.

The Process Carbon footprint is nearly 40% less (see the Green Label by ACIMIT) The inks wastage is 20% less because Colour management is through software, thus using only the ink quantity necessary to achieve colours and designs. The fabric's wastage during the design/colourways change is nearly zero. Thus, expanding the designers' creativity at low costs as well as granting a lean workflow. Digital Printing allows the potential production of infinity colourways and designs. Generally speaking, and for those who already are working in Textile Printing Industry, the process of shifting from conventional printing to digital one is a matter of training. At

MS's Academy, there are different training levels aimed at supporting customers in this change. Consumers are ever more mindful of sustainable and responsible purchases, thus to the entire production chain. Digital textile printing offers the way to realize the sustainable production demanded by consumers worldwide, such as responding to supply and production chains' big challenges, binding for the textile industry. It is possible to return 10L of water to every human being by replacing the traditional cylinder machines with 300 Lario Single-pass. 

Fig. 1: The compacting device COMPACTeasy can be easily retrofitted on existing ring spinning machines.

The Easy Way to Upgrade Your Yarn The compacting device COMPACTeasy was the perfect solution for Fergana Global Textil (FGT) from Uzbekistan to upgrade its ring yarn to compact yarn. FGT installed the compacting device on its existing ring spinning machines G 37. With COMPACTeasy, the company benefits from higher yarn quality and better performance in downstream processes, as well as the ability to switch between the production of ring and compact yarn. Global Textile Group is one of the leading textile companies in Uzbekistan which produces high-quality yarns with modern technology. Its factory Fergana Global Textile (FGT) produces 26 tons of carded yarns and 12 tons of combed compact yarn per day as well as 20 tons of blended yarn from cotton and polyester. As a vertically integrated company, it processes cotton grown on its own fields in a ginning plant and also started to produce dyed knitted fabrics. The yarn and fabrics are certified with Oekotex Standard 100 and are sold to

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sewing and knitting mills of big brands mostly in Europe.

From ring to compact yarn with COMPACTeasy FGT was looking for a straightforward solution to upgrade its ring yarn to compact yarn without any major installation effort and without high investment costs. The compacting device COMPACTeasy in combination with Rieter comber E 86 was the right solution for FGT. COMPACTeasy features a compacting system with an y-shaped channel, enabling intensive double compacting without any additional energy consumption (Fig. 1). The yarn quality is determined by both the ychannel of the compactor and the integrated pin. The pin acts on the fibers while they are in the drafting system area – the area where they have the least guidance. The compacting device can be easily retrofitted on existing machines.

Boosting productivity and quality FGT has upgraded its ring yarn by using the comber E 86 in spinning preparation and by installing the compacting device COMPACTeasy on its ring spinning machines G 37. With the production of combed compact yarn, productivity on the G 37 has increased by 7%. To compare the yarn quality produced on the G 37 with and without COMPACTeasy, the compacting device was plugged out at several spinning positions. As a result, combed ring and combed compact yarn (from 100% cotton with a yarn count Ne 30) was produced on the same machine. The results for unevenness were similar for both the ring and compact yarn. In terms of hairiness and tenacity, the compact yarn achieved a significantly better quality: tenacity was 12% higher and hairiness 28% lower (Fig. 2). “The comber E 86 and the installation of the compacting device COMPACTeasy

Features on our ring spinning machine were accompanied by excellent service and timely support from Rieter field service staff. The compacting device gives us the opportunity to add value to our yarns while using existing equipment. This not only strengthens our own fabric production, but also helps us meet the needs of our customers and forge new partnerships”, says Otabek Nishanov, CEO of Fergana Global Textile (Fig. 3). Trade Press ArticleRieter Trade Press Article: COMPACTeasy FGT, April 2022 Page 2/3

Excellent performance in downstream processes Thanks to COMPACTeasy, the company now benefits from all the advantages of a compact yarn. These advantages are not only noticeable in higher yarn quality, but also have a positive impact on downstream processes. FGT appreciates the better performance of its knitting machines when processing the compact yarn and fabrics are characterized by less pilling. If needed, the compacting device can be easily plugged out from the G 37 without using any tools to switch to the production of ring yarn again. This offers a high level of flexibility when faced with

Fig. 2: Higher tenacity and lower hairiness with COMPACTeasy.

market requirements that are constantly changing.

only supplier worldwide to cover both

About Rieter

four end-spinning processes currently

spinning preparation processes and all established on the market. Furthermore,

Rieter is the world’s leading supplier of systems for short-staple fiber spinning. Based in Winterthur (Switzerland), the company develops and manufactures machinery, systems and components used to convert natural and man-made fibers and their blends into yarns. Rieter is the

Rieter is a leader in the field of precision winding machines. With 17 manufacturing locations in ten countries, the company employs a global workforce of some 4 900, about 18% of whom are based in Switzerland. 

Fig. 3: Otabek Nishanov,CEO of FGT, is satisfied with COMPACTeasy: “The compacting device gives us the opportunity to add value to our yarns while using existing equipment.”

Trust in a Smarter Cotton Future In a period of ever greater supply chain scrutiny and a growing demand for transparency and traceability, The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol (Trust Protocol) sets a new standard for more sustainably grown cotton. It brings quantifiable and verifiable goals and measurement to sustainable cotton production and drives continuous improvement in key sustainability metrics. Choosing Trust Protocol cotton gives you the critical assurances you need that the cotton fiber element of your supply chain is more sustainably grown with lower environmental and social risk. Put simply: The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol helps the apparel industry to measure its sustainability commitments to its customers, to its broader stakeholders, and to itself. We invite you to take part in a smarter cotton future.

Committed to continuous improvement The 16,000 cotton farms in the United States have been committed to continuous improvement for decades.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2022

Over the past 35 years, U.S. cotton production has used less water per bale and reduced greenhouse gas emissions and energy consumption, all while reducing land use per bale. The adoption of practices such as minimal tillage, GPS and sensor-driven precision agriculture, and the growing of winter cover crops have further improved soil health, reducing loss and erosion and increasing soil carbon levels. U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol was named one of Textile Exchange’s preferred fibers

Introducing the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol The Trust Protocol underpins and verifies U.S. cotton’s sustainability progress through sophisticated data collection and independent third-party verification. Brands and retailers will gain access to U.S. cotton with sustainability credentials proven via FieldtoMarket, measured via the Fieldprint Calculator and verified with Control Union Certifications.The Trust Protocol is a complement to existing sustainability programs which cater for cotton grown in

developing countries. It is designed from the ground up to fit the unique cotton growing environment of the United States.

Aligned with the UN SDGs and other industry goals The Trust Protocol helps companies achieve their sustainability commitments. The Trust Protocol is setting a new standard for more sustainable cotton production. Trust Protocol growers are stewards of the land, committed to raising the bar for responsible farming methods and

35 years of reduced environmental impact

Features improving the environment for future generations. The Trust Protocol also contributes to seven of the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) set in 2015 by the United Nations General Assembly. Levi Strauss & Co. “We are in strong support of the introduction of standards – including the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol – that champion sustainably grown cotton and drive wider adoption over the long-term of sustainable cultivation practices.” –Liza Schillo, Senior Manager, Global Sustainability Integration, Levi Strauss & Co.; U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol consultant board member Tesco “In terms of cotton production, we are focused on reducing water, chemical usage and carbon emissions. The Trust Protocol’s year-on-year data will be so useful as we make progress in showing those reductions.” –Joe Little, Head of Technical: Fabric, Color, Sustainability & Garment Technology, Tesco; U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol consultant board member “By capturing data directly from U.S. growers, the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol will monitor and report progress against clearly defined environmental goals. Whether it’s water usage or biodiversity, this data will be a valuable

tool for brands as they look to demonstrate the quantifiable impact of their sourcing decisions.” –Tara Luckman, Former Head of Sustainable Sourcing, ASOS; advisor, U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol consultant WWF “Through the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol, growers have committed to reduce water use by an additional 18% by 2025. I believe that the Trust Protocol will be an important tool to guarantee that cotton growers continue on the path towards zero-impact farming.” –Melissa Ho, Senior Vice President, Fresh Water and Food, World Wildlife Fund (WWF), board member, U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol

Benefits to brands and retailers

Source: Field to Market 2016 Environmental and Socioeconomic Indicators Report. Available at www.omarket.org

Performance metrics Each member of the Trust Protocol will be granted access to third-party verified sustainability performance metrics as well as aggregated grower-sourced data pertaining to six key sustainability elements.

Sustainability reporting The published metrics and associated data can be used by members for sustainability reporting, ESG audits and GRI standards, among other uses.

Independent verification Control Union Certifications is implementing independent, third-party verification to give brands and retailers assurance that the Trust Protocol is meeting the highest standards of sustainability.

Supply chain

Consumer facing assets

The Trust Protocol is needed to help brands and retailors better track the cotton entering their supply chain and to further quantify and report on their individual sustainability goals and objectives.

Logo and materials that can be used at pointof-sale to give consumers confidence they are buying responsibly sourced content. Contact the Trust Protocol for more information.

German Review

In the early-1930s, the rayon spinning machine – in front of which the proud team is standing – was state-of-the-art.

A pioneer of the manmade fiber industry Oerlikon Barmag celebrates its 100th anniversary When the manmade fiber age began a century ago, a German company was responsible for the pioneering work involved. Barmag, established in 1922, was one of the world’s first companies to construct machines for the large-scale production of synthetic staple fibers. To this day, the leading manufacturer of manmade fiber spinning systems and texturing machines in Remscheid – a brand under the aegis of the Swiss Oerlikon Group since 2007 – has shaped technological progress in this sector; in future, with ever more innovations focusing on sustainability and digitalization. Barmer Maschinenfabrik Aktiengesellschaft (Barmag) is founded in Barmen, located in the Bergische Land region, on March 27, 1922. The German and Dutch founders enter unchartered technological territory, one created as the

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2022

After being founded in Wuppertal-Barmen in 1922, Barmag relocated to Remscheid-Lennep, its current site, in 1926. Here, the eventful history of the nascent company was continued on a green field.

result of a groundbreaking invention: in 1884, French chemist Count Hilaire Bernigaud de Chardonnet used nitrocellulose to produce the first socalled artificial silk, later known as rayon.

The following decades see rapid development focusing on the search for synthetic textile fibers and their manufacturing technologies.

German Review

Today, filaments are manufactured at speeds of up to 480 km/h using state-ofthe-art spinning systems.

As one of the first machine factories, Barmag battles its way through the eventful early years of the manmade fiber industry, the ‘Roaring Twenties’ and the Great Depression – and suffers the extensive destruction of its factories at the end of World War Two. Rebuilding is successful. With the unstoppable success story of purely synthetic plastic fibers such as polyamide, the company flourishes from the 1950s through to the 1970s, establishing sites in all international, for the textile industry at the time important, industrial regions and garnering prestige across the globe in the process. In the ups and downs of expansion, global competition and crises, Barmag reaches the very pinnacle of the market and becomes the preferred

technological development partner for the manmade fiber industries in China, India and Turkey. The company has been a high-impact brand under the umbrella of the Oerlikon Group since 2007.

On the wings of innovation Today, Oerlikon Barmag is a leading supplier of manmade fiber filament spinning systems and part of the Manmade Fibers Solutions business unit of the Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions Division. And our aspirations have not diminished: “The striving towards innovation and technological leadership has been, is and will always be part of our DNA”, emphasizes Georg Stausberg, CEO of Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions.

In the past, this has been observable in such trailblazing innovations as the revolutionary WINGS generation of winders for POY in 2007 and WINGS for FDY in 2012. Currently, the focus of new and further developments is very much on digitalization and sustainability. Here, Oerlikon Barmag has as one of the world’s first systems manufacturers been implementing fully networked smart factories for globally leading polyester manufacturers since the end of the last decade. Within this context, digital solutions and automation are also helping to provide greater climate and environmental compatibility. This sustainability commitment is not only

A look at the state-of-the-art assembly of a WINGS winder and at increasingly digital production.

German Review evidenced by the e-save label introduced for all products back in 2004: Oerlikon is endeavoring to also make all its sites carbon-neutral by 2030 and to acquire its energy exclusively from renewable sources. An ambitious target, whose achievement could be helped by the Oerlikon Barmag anniversary, states Georg Stausberg: “Innovation begins with creativity. And remembering the past provides plenty of motivation and inspiration for the future.

Automation, as shown here in the doffing of wound packages, is an important milestone on the journey to digitally-networked Industrie 4.0 solutions.

About Oerlikon

Georg Stausberg, CEO Oerlikon Polymer Processing Division and CSO Oerlikon

Oerlikon (SIX: OERL) develops modern materials, systems and surface technologies and provides specialized services aimed at securing highperformance products and systems with long lifespans for customers. Supported by its technological core competencies and its strong financial footing, the corporation continues its medium-term growth plan by implementing three strategic factors: focusing on attractive

growth markets, ensuring structural growth and expanding through targeted M&A activities. Oerlikon is a globallyleading technology and engineering corporation, operating its business in two segments (Surface Solutions and Manmade Fibers) and employing around 11,000 members of staff at 182 sites in 37 countries worldwide. In 2019, Oerlikon generated sales of CHF 2.6 billion and invested more than CHF 120 million in research & development. 

Texturing machines, such as this eFK, give the spun yarn a textile, ‘bulky’ handle.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2022

From left to right: Ahmet Kapuçam, Technical Director Iskur, Muhammad Yousuf, Technologist Trützschler, Mehmet Açan, Mill Manager Iskur, Hakan Karagöl, General Manager Iskur, Mehmet Dogan, Technologist Trützschler.

TC 19i outperforms competitor’s card in head-to-head trials TC 19i offers high production and more constant quality with less waste compared to latest highperformance card from the competitor, says leading Turkish yarn manufacturer Iskur. This is the final evaluation after several months of intensive head-to-head testing. “We facilitated the comparison of TC 19i with the the competitor card at our premises because we wanted to make an informed decision for our next project” says Hakan Karagöl, General Manager Iskur Group. The aim was to achieve the

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2022

maximum possible production with best possible quality and operating costs. On the basis of a cost-comparison and quality analysis from yarn to fabric, Iskur is now in favor of Trützschler regarding the spinning preparation line. After months of comparative testing during which TC 19i showed better performance and quality, while the competitor card had to be continuously overhauled and reconfigured, the final trials took place beginning of 2022. In the first trial both cards ran at 180 kg/h in

the production of a rotor yarn Ne 6,5 made of a cotton and cotton recycle blend. Both competitors achieved comparable quality (IPI) now, and the final fabrics both matched the customer’s expectation. However, TC 19i showed significantly less unnecessary fiber waste – more than 4 %! The cost savings of operating TC 19i compared to the competitor amount to 160.000 $ per year, which include other aspects like energy consumption and maintenance expenses.

German Review In the second trial, the production target was increased to 250 kg/h. After some adaptations the competitor card now ran at comparable waste levels like TC 19i. However, IPI results of TC 19i were about 30 % lower, yarn breaks about 60 % lower, and clearer cuts 45 % lower. TC 19i produced about 850 kg more in the same time period. “We observed that IPI values and waste percentage of the competitor card varied more from day to day, while Trützschler TC 19i quality and waste values remained comparatively constant. The fabric from TC 19i fully met our expectation, both after the 180 kg/h and the 250 kg/h trial. In contrast, the fabric that stemmed from competitor card production at 250 kg/h did not match our reference fabric anymore”, concludes the customer. The competitor claims that their latest card provides the highest production on the market, due to a 1,5 m working width, 40 active tops and largest active carding area. The results of these headto-head trials demonstrate once again that size alone does not always make the difference. The intelligence of TC 19i – including the permanent, automatic optimization of the carding gap during production and the automaticrecognition and setting of waste removal – leads to better results. The TC 19i provides high production with best possible quality and waste removal, as well as lower energy consumption in direct comparison.

From left to right: Ahmet Kapuçam, Technical Director Iskur, Mehmet Açan, Mill Manager Iskur, Hakan Karagöl, General Manager Iskur.

About Trützschler: The Trützschler Group SE is a German textile machinery manufacturer headquartered in Mönchengladbach, Germany. The company is divided into four business units: Spinning, Nonwovens, ManMade Fibers, and Card Clothing. Trützschler machines, installations and accessories are produced and developed in ten locations worldwide. This includes four factories in Germany (Dülmen, Egelsbach, Mönchengladbach, Neubulach), as well as sites in China (Jiaxing and Shanghai), India (Ahmedabad), the USA (Charlotte), Brazil (Curitiba) and Switzerland (Winterthur). Service companies in Turkey, Mexico, Uzbekistan and Vietnam and service centers in Pakistan, Bangladesh and Indonesia provide customer proximity in key regions for the textile processing industry. 

“Investment in BRÜCKNER ensures high quality and efficient production”

Regina Brückner, CEO, Brückner Textile Technologies

Q. Sustainability is the buzzword of today. How would you define it? Regina: Sustainability describes a system of action in which the lasting satisfaction of needs is ensured only by safeguarding the natural regenerative capacity of systems. Serious sustainability obliges each of us to use only as many resources as the earth can provide us with in the long term. Climate change, as well as the current raging war in Europe, has clearly shown us how dependent we are on many resources and how important it is to conserve them and use them carefully. Every single person can contribute in his private as well as professional environment by e.g. using electricity and water more carefully and consuming and investing much more consciously. We see ourselves at BRÜCKNER absolutely in the duty to develop products which are extremely durable and which are produced as sustainable as possible. In this way, we also support our customers so that they can produce sustainably. After all, it is about saving

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resources: water, chemicals, energy, metals and other raw materials. Process optimization alone could reduce resource consumption in textile finishing by up to 40 or 50 %. This is currently and has always been the focus of our research and development work. Q. How do you see the future of the global textile industry and what are some of the challenges that you foresee? Regina: The challenges lie first of all in being able to plan for the long term again. Currently, there is no demand problem in the world, but a supply problem: many resources are scarce and significantly more expensive than before. The aim of all companies must therefore be to make more optimal use of the equipment available and to plan the right investments in more efficient production for the future. During the pandemic, the way we work has changed in many areas, but we all need to continue to invest in digitalization, training and process optimization. Intensive networking between machine manufacturers, chemical suppliers and customers must

also be pushed even harder in the future in order to continue to be successful. Q. As past Chairperson of the German textile machinery manufacturers Association VDMA, what is the importance of the “Made in Germany” label today? Regina: Made in Germany" stands for the highest standard in efficiency, safety and quality, as well as for durability and innovation. German universities are leaders in many areas, the multi-level German education system is the basis for quality in all areas of manufacturing, planning, developing and commissioning of our machines and lines. In addition, many companies in the VDMA are medium-sized, the employees identify with the products and the company much more intensively and thus make a great contribution at all levels for the products of the VDMA members. Q. What makes Brückner well suited to serve the present and future needs of the industry? Regina: At BRÜCKNER, we identify strongly with the motto "Made in Germany". We do not strive for short-

term profit maximization, but for longterm success and healthy growth. This is exactly what customers also benefit from when they buy our products. They may have to invest a little more initially, but in the long term the costs for energy, maintenance and production are significantly lower and the quality of the goods produced is better. To achieve this goal, we have invested heavily in training and development in recent years, as well as in building up new areas of expertise, e.g. in technological consulting, development or teleservice. With our broad product portfolio, we have a solution for almost every application and always work out individual concepts with customers. To this end, we have also further expanded our Technology Center in Leonberg, which is available at any time for trials and product developments together with our technologists. Q. Brückner has a long-term relationship with Pakistan. What are the strengths of this market and what areas need to be improved? Regina: Pakistan has been an important market for us for a very long

Regina Brückner CEO Brückner

German Review time and has become even more important in recent years. Many of our Pakistani customers have recognized that energy-efficient machines with intelligent assistance systems help them to work more productively and successfully. Added to this is the excellent support from our local representative Nazer & Co. with whom we have been working successfully for many years. Nazer also has well-trained technical service personnel who are continuously supported by a BRÜCKNER technician. These are the most important reasons why we have been able to place so many machines in Pakistan in recent years, i.e. stenters, sanfor ranges but also continuous dyeing lines. One of the biggest challenges in Pakistan at the moment is the gas shortage. We have reacted to this and introduced a stenter with double heating system, which can be heated either with gas or with oil, depending on which medium is currently available to our customers. This means that machine downtimes and production limitations can be avoided as far as possible.

“We achieve perfect dyeing results with our BRÜCKNER Thermosol line and this allows us to extend our production with high-quality products. Our operators have been trained excellently by BRÜCKNER’s experts and therefore we could optimize the performance of the line.” Bashir Ali Mohammad, Chairman Gul Ahmed Textile Mills Ltd.

“Brückner’s European made Power Frame Stenter has been a worthwhile investment allowing us to finish our denim with consistency, reliability at optimal cost of production and the highest quality as required by our discerning international buyers. We are completely satisfied with our decision to invest in BRÜCKNER.“ Aamir Maqbool, Managing Director, Indigo Textile (Pvt) Ltd.

German Review

BRÜCKNER power-frame hn sfp stenter at ARTE EN DENIM

ARTE EN DENIM extends its machine park with BRÜCKNER POWER FRAME ARTE EN DENIM is a vertically integrated Mexican textile company with a history of more than 40 years. Based in Puebla, in the center of the country, the company delivers its products all over the country, to the United States and to the different seaports along the coasts of Mexico. ARTE EN DENIM is known for fast and punctual deliveries.

For years, the company has been developing and producing high quality denim. From fibers, yarns and fabrics to casual wear, ARTE EN DENIM creates textile products of outstanding quality. The company's team of experts assists its customers with product design and development, as well as providing comprehensive denim treatment advice on wet and dry finishing, logistics and shipping, and offers other customized services to meet the needs of its domestic and foreign customers. ARTE EN DENIM's expertise and modern, highquality machinery offer customers the perfect formula for developing, producing and marketing their design ideas. ARTE EN DENIM employs more than 700 people, including textile engineers, textile designers and certified technicians.

A well thought-out human resources development program encourages employees at all levels and contributes to their qualification, training and achievement of degrees in all professional fields. The company's goal is to achieve, with adequate profitability, not only the economic development of the company, but also a better quality of life for its employees. The company places a special emphasis on innovation, technology, textile developments, and fashionable products for demanding customers such as Workwear Outfitters and Dickies, which specialize in workwear, as well as the U.S. VF Corporation, one of the largest apparel companies in the world and the market leader in underwear, workwear, and backpacks. Reliable and trustworthy relationships with customers are one of ARTE EN DENIM's highest values. ARTE EN DENIM products include flat woven, piece dyed or yarn dyed fabrics, denim, PFD cotton and garments, mainly denim pants in the Work & Casual Wear segment. The collection includes the Rigida line, made of 100% cotton, which

offers robustness and durability in classic denim style, the Comfort line, made of 99% cotton and 1% elastane, and Stretch, which is made of cotton blends with polyester and 2% elastane. ARTE EN DENIM has chosen a firstclass BRÜCKNER POWER-FRAME HN stenter with 2 padders for the production of its high-quality fabrics. The high drying and evaporation capacity of the stenter allows the fastest possible drying of cotton fabrics. Due to the high temperature accuracy in the BRÜCKNER machine, also synthetic fiber mixtures can be heat-set efficiently. The very homogeneous air flow and temperature distribution of alternately arranged thermo zones and the proven split-flow design with separately adjustable upper and lower air were some of the features which convinced the customer. Reproducible finishing results and the robust construction which does not only guarantee a long service life of the machines but is also excellently suitable to withstand heavy denim fabric are further plus points for the BRÜCKNER stenter. 

German Review

VDMA: Dr. Janpeter Horn New Chairperson of Textile Machinery Association Dr. Janpeter Horn, Managing Director of August Herzog Maschinenfabrik, is the new Chairperson of the VDMA Textile Machinery. Dr. Horn was elected at the members’ meeting of the Association in Leonberg. The new Executive Board is completed with Ms. Regina Brückner, Managing Associate of Brückner Trockentechnik and Ms. Verena Thies, Managing Shareholder of Thies Textilmaschinen, who were elected as Vice Chairpersons. After his election, Dr. Horn stated: “I am pleased to have Ms. Brückner and Ms. Thies by my side. Both have been serving on the Executive Board of the VDMA Textile Machinery as well as the European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers CEMATEX for many years. With this team, we are well prepared to effectively represent the interests of the industry at national and international level.” Based in Oldenburg, Northern Germany, Herzog is a company with a long tradition and at the same time the most innovative developer and manufacturer of braiding and winding machinery. Worldwide references in braiding and winding technique confirm the company’s technical and quality leadership. The new Executive Board of the VDMA Textile Machinery for the legislative period until 2026 is composed of:      

Dr. Janpeter Horn (Chairperson), August Herzog Maschinenfabrik Regina Brückner (Vice Chairperson), BRÜCKNER Trockentechnik Verena Thies (Vice Chairperson), THIES Peter D. Dornier, Lindauer DORNIER Stefan Flöth, A. Monforts Textilmaschinen Arno Gärtner, KARL MAYER STOLL Textilmaschinenfabrik

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2022

Verena Thies, Vice Chairperson, Dr. Janpeter Horn, Chairperson and Regina Brückner VDMA Vice Chairperson VDMA



Markus Kleindorp, MEMMINGER-



Benjamin Reiners, Reiners + Fürst

IRO



Dr. Uwe Rondé, Saurer Group



Andreas Lukas, ANDRITZ Küsters



Eric Schöller, Groz-Beckert



Benjamin Mayer, Mayer & Cie.



Georg Stausberg, Oerlikon Textile



Dr. Jörg Morgner, Temafa



Heinrich Trützschler, Trützschler

Maschinenfabrik

Group 

German Review

Growing Together: The Karl Mayer group Turns 85 This year, the KARL MAYER Group will be 85 years old. The company is using this anniversary as an opportunity to pay tribute to the people behind its unparalleled success story. Over the years, what was once a family business has developed into an international group of companies at the top of its markets. The global player owes its current size and position primarily to the right course set by its founder Karl Mayer and his successors. Equally important were the workforce and its cooperation with customers. The Mayer family has also laid down this focus in the corporate guidelines, which the company continues to follow consistently to this day. Fairness and trust are the basis of the Karl Mayer Group’s actions and its fundamental values, and they have just also helped it during the pandemic. “Today, we look back on a group of companies with strong roots and business activities in the main sectors of the textile industry,” said says Arno Gärtner, CEO of the Karl Mayer Group. “Like this industry, we are globally positioned and therefore close to our customers. Where we are today is thanks to an international team of people with innovative ideas, passion and the courage to set off. We are looking forward to celebrating our anniversary in the spirit of togetherness,”

A story of growth into a global player Karl Mayer ‘s history is also a history of change. The company was founded in 1937 as a mechanical workshop, delivered the first warp knitting machine in 1948, and subsequently expanded

internationally. Milestones of continuous growth were the establishment of the first foreign subsidiary in Clifton, USA, in 1956, an early presence in Japan as early as 1968 and the establishment of a subsidiary in the main market China in 1995. Today, the Group has additional foreign sites in England, India, Italy, Hong Kong, Bangladesh and Switzerland, and agencies in all parts of the world. The international organization with production sites in the main markets ensures that the Karl Mayer Group operates extremely close to its customers. In 2017, the software start-up KM.ON was founded in order to rapidly advance digitization with its own organization through customized software solutions. The Group also continued to expand in the recent past: in 2020, the flat knitting machine manufacturer STOLL was acquired, and since 2021, the new Beyond Textile Business Unit has been committed to growth outside its traditional business areas in the textile world. Today, the Group offers perfect solutions for warp knitting, flat knitting, technical textiles, warp preparation for weaving, and digitization, and combines the Karl Mayer, STOLL, and KM.ON brands under one roof for this purpose.

A story of innovators and doers with passion The 3,100 employees from over 20 nations are united by the same DNA and passionate work for a better future. People at all Karl Mayer sites have a shared commitment to developing innovations that advance the textile world, but also areas beyond it.

Arno Gärtner, CEO Karl Mayer Group

The focus has always been on the customer. In its anniversary year, the Karl Mayer Group is shining the spotlight on its employees, customers and partners. Under the motto “growing together”, joint projects are presented and insights are given behind the scenes. Activities include a social media and a press campaign in which customers from all over the world have their say. Many of them can report many years of trusting cooperation. Through working together, personal contacts have grown and shared memories have been created. In addition to the voices from the market, a new presentation on the group of companies and an anniversary video on the theme of “People, togetherness, insights” will be launched. The anniversary is also the theme of the upcoming trade fair participations. This year, the Karl Mayer Group will be taking part as an exhibitor at Techtextil in Frankfurt am Main and ITM in Istanbul in June, ITMA ASIA in Shanghai in November, and INDIA ITME Noida near Delhi in December. Last but not least, customers and other interested parties in the industry can look forward to a very special anniversary treat: a new digital platform with specialist news on all the Group’s technologies will go online just in time for the anniversary. The new media format also takes over the information offered by “Kettenwirk-Praxis”. With more topicality and broader reporting, readers are always as up to date as the fast-moving, innovative industry requires.

German Review

Monforts: Real energy savings are more important than ever The Techtextil and Heimtextil Summer Special exhibitions, taking place together in Frankfurt from June 21-24, represent a welcome, once-only opportunity for Monforts to showcase its advanced finishing and coating technologies for two of its major markets – especially at a time when energy prices continue to soar for textile manufacturers in Europe. European-built Montex stenters have earned their leading position on the market for fabric finishing due to their robustness, reliability and economy. Existing customers include many manufacturers in the field of home textiles, as well as those making geotextiles, automotive fabrics and other functional materials – all of whom will be well represented in Frankfurt this June. Dedicated Montex lines have also been supplied to producers of airbags, flame retardant barrier fabrics and spacer fabrics, as well as high-temperature filter materials. Energy prices are rising steeply everywhere and a particular emphasis for Monforts in Frankfurt will be on the energy and heat recovery that can be achieved with Montex stenters, through features such as better insulation of the treatment chambers or the MonforClean system, in which waste heat from the drying process is used to pre-heat the drying air resulting in a radical reduction in the conventional heat supply required

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compared to gas and thermal oil heating. The modular system for heat recovery can also be extended for exhaust air cleaning and odour elimination. Monforts can provide a range of further resourcesaving and energy recovery options tailored to each individual line installation including modification of the heating source. “Montex stenters provide maximum efficiency, the ultimate in flexibility and the ability to switch quickly from one fabric formula to the next,” says Monforts Textile Technologies Engineer Jonas Beisel. “The easy to use humanmachine interface (HMI) makes the

operation of the line much simpler and cuts down the necessary training periods, while at the same time reducing the chance of human error.” With the highly intuitive Qualitex 800 visualization software, all article-specific settings can be stored and the formulations for thousands of treatment processes called up again at any time. Individual operators can also personalise their dashboards with the most important machine functions and process parameters. The Qualitex 800 system is available for the automatic and continuous operation of the company’s Montex

Jonas Beisel and the team look forwardto reconnecting with you in Frankfurt.

German Review

European-built Montex stenters have earned a leading position on the market for fabric finishing.

stenters, as well as its Thermex continuous dyeing ranges, Monfortex shrinking systems and Montex®Coat coating units. Monforts Montex®Coat coating units serve an equally diverse number of markets, including tents, tarpaulins and awnings, black-out roller blinds and sail cloth, automotive interior fabrics and medical disposables. Full PVC coatings, pigment dyeing or minimal application surface and low penetration treatments and solvent coatings (in explosion-proof conditions) with knife coating, roller coating or screen printing can all be accommodated with this system.

perfect finishes via a precise direct application system, as an alternative to conventional padding – where fabrics are immersed in a bath of the required finishing chemicals. It can significantly further reduce the energy and water required and finishes can be applied on just one side of the fabric, or both, and even separately on each side, to be sealed in place via

different heating zones in the stenter. This allows endless differentiation possibilities. “Both home textiles and textiles for a wide range of technical applications are key end-use markets for our technologies, making the joint Techtextil and Heimtexil shows a stand-out event in 2022,” says Monforts Managing Director Stefan Flöth. “We are looking forward to reconnecting with customers old and new in Frankfurt.”

The Monforts EcoApplicator enable perfect finishes via a precise direct application system, as an alternative to conventional padding.

All of these very different materials require expert coating and finishing for maximum efficiency, using Monforts technologies which provide the ultimate in flexibility and the ability to switch quickly from one fabric run to the next, without compromising on the economical use of energy or raw materials. The Monforts EcoApplicator offers further potential for sustainably achieving

German Review

SETEX: Online, stationary and mobile measurement of characteristic fabric-design parameters For over 25 years, the name SETEX has been associated with automation competence in textile finishing. With R&D facilities in Germany and representatives in 65 countries. SETEX is the full-service provider for consultancy, sales, upgrades and modernizations, remote and on-site service. As a one-stop-supplier of controls for textile machine manufacturers and the manufacturing operation IT- and integration software OrgaTEX MES for a sustainable shop-floor strategy, this company provides a solution that perfectly suits individual workflows. SETEX increased the product family of camera-based instruments to provide fabric parameters such as yarn thickness, yarn frequency, fabric geometry and pore size.

GSP INSPECTOR 250/5 for direct measurement of characteristic filter parameters. The effect of functional wear, filters or clinical applications depends on the diameter of the largest particles that can

just pass through the mesh. In the forefront of complex permeability tests, the measurement-based determination of the critical mesh parameters already enables a correlation with the targeted requirements. GSP INSPECTOR 250/5 reports with a simple measurement the pore size, pore shape, and fabric pore count in plain weaves. Developed with input from the filtration industry, the system provides further characteristics such as yarn thickness and the open mesh area. The graphical measurement also visualizes structure defects in addition to the characterizations, and their influence on the result can be tracked interactively. Test results are easy to view and analyze on screen and reports can be customized for print and export to PDF.

FabricINSPECTOR provides fast and simple measurements of the fabric density. Aimed to automotive, workwear and protective wear industries with high quality-criteria, the thread analysis for woven and knitted fabrics gives

Analysis of fiber and pore dimensions.

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consistent results in a fraction of the traditional counting time. If it takes about 4 minutes to determine the thread count of 5 fabrics with a thread density of about 40 threads per cm by counting with a magnifying glass, the FabricINSPECTOR does this in 55 seconds by measuring. The evaluation of KPIs and tolerances keeps a record of quality along the value chain.

FabricINSPECTOR Mobile The lightweight and compact FabricINSPECTOR Mobile is ideal for users who want a quick decision at the location of the operation. Without the need for sampling and punching patterns, you get reliable measured values - even from running fabric. By sharing the database and reporting app with the desktop FabricINSPECTOR, it is an easy to supplement existing units. The family owned and operated, SETEX stands for long-life quality, longterm availability and sustainable innovation. More information at SETEX in Hall 12.0, D68 inside the VDMA area.

Dilo needling line

DiloGroup highlights production technologies with a focus on needle felts For DiloGroup Techtextil exhibition is traditionally a good opportunity to inform customers and interested parties about new developments aimed at improving production technologies with a focus on needlefelts.DiloGroup will be present at Hall 12, booth B95. It becomes more evident that the textile industry comes into the focus of regulatory authorities who push respecting sustainability principles and who initiate a new body of laws. Hence all industrial sectors are requested to achieve savings in material and energy. The textile machine building, of course, plays an important role by seizing this initiative and offering solutions for fibre pulp recycling and reduction of energy, water and ancillaries. DiloGroup has made big efforts to meet these challenges together with a

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needle module holder

German Review circle of partner companies. In this regard focal points of the development work are:

DiloGroup as general contractor in

Intense Needling

Fibre Pulp Recycling

Needling per se is a mechanical

cooperation with partner companies.

Fibrous material in nonwovens and

production method with a high energy

particularly used clothes can be

efficiency. For this reason, the

successfully recycled, if staple length can

development efforts of DiloGroup aim at

be conserved in the tearing process. In

producing nonwovens by “intense

the classical tearing process, staple

needling” instead of water entangling,

lengths are dramatically reduced and

even for light nonwovens made of fine

therefore these fibres can only be used as

fibres for the medical and hygiene sector

base material for inferior uses in thermal

with an area weight of 30 – 100 g/m².

or acoustic insulation or in protective

This would result in a reduction of the

textiles, transportation or protective

environmentally relevant production

covers etc.

costs; per annum to about 1/3 to 1/5 of current. Despite the prospective advantages of

When recycling textile waste in the context of the collection of used clothes, the so called “filament-saving” tearing

the mechanical intense needling method

using special tearing machines and

over the hydrodynamical, water

methods must be used to produce fibres

entanglement is at the moment the most

with longer staple lengths which can be

important production method for low

fed to a nonwoven installation. Hence

area weights and highest production

product characteristics can be better

capacity and is also offered by the

specified and controlled.

Additive nonwoven production The additive production method of the “3D-Lofter” is especially suited for automotive parts with differently distributed masses; but there may also be potential for increasing uses in the sector of apparel and shoe production.

IsoFeed-card feeding In the field of card feeding, the “IsoFeed” method offers great potential for a more homogeneous card feeding at the same time reducing the variation in cross-machine fibre mass distribution and thus the fibre consumption while conserving the end product quality. DiloGroup will highlight above mentioned developments of needling technology as well as modules of Industry 4.0 applications for further digitalization during the Techtextil exhibition. The Group will, of course, also inform about the numerous universal and special applications of the complete nonwovens technology.

3D-Lofter

AUTEFA Solutions - committed to technology that is both innovative and sustainable AUTEFA Solutions as a full line supplier for carded- crosslapped needlepunch lines, aerodynamic web forming technology, spunlace, and thermobonding lines will be present at Techtextil (hall 12 booth D 85). AUTEFA Solutions nonwoven lines meet customers’ requirements for quality web formation, bonding, active weight regulation, and minimal maintenance. The general trend is for weight reduction whilst maintaining physical properties providing savings in material costs and increasing operating speeds. Customers require machines and lines that are able to produce light weight fabrics without any compromises regarding material strength. Furthermore, growth in needlepunching technology remains strong, a good example is Artificial Leather, also in terms of sustainability. AUTEFA Solutions serves the growing demand for needled technical applications e.g., the filtration business and for paper maker felts. Sustainability is a huge topic, worldwide. With the increasing environmental awareness, the demand for renewable textiles is forthcoming, allowing the wood

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pulp technology segment to grow enhanced growth rates. Our customers are increasing the use of replacement fibers like recycled PET fibres, carbon fibers, reclaimed fibers as well as various natural fibers such as hemp or coconut. Therefore, AUTEFA Solutions needlepunching machines have special options like optimized bed and stripper plates, advanced needle patterns with conical bed plate holes, and optimized feeding system for pre-needle looms. A dust extraction system is available and recommended when processing recycled and natural fibers, glass and short fibers, and carbon and mineral fibers. AUTEFA Solutions needlepunching lines distinguish themselves by easy operation, less energy consumptions/gms, excellent and reproducible product quality with reduced operation cots. The needlelooms of the Stylus product family can process all fiber types. The needlelooms are designed to suit the required output and speed by adjusting the number of the drive modules. AUTEFA’s needlepunch lines produce an even and homogenous lightweight fabric with outstanding

technical performance in terms of tensile strength and evenness (MD/CD ratio). Needlepunching lines are composed by several steps, like blending, carding, crosslapping and needling. The performances of such a line and the quality of the product in terms of appearance, evenness and mechanical characteristics depends on all steps. As a full line supplier, AUTEFA Solution has worked on all the different steps of the process to improve the performances and supply high quality line on all its components. AUTEFA Solutions offers a complete range of nonwovens machinery, covering needlepunch lines, aerodynamic web forming, spunlace and thermobonding equipment. Application sectors range from hygiene and wipes through filtration, geotextiles, automotive, carpets, technical felts, wadding and insulation. In the premium nonwovens segment, AUTEFA Solutions is renowned for the quality, durability and performance of its technology for both forming and bonding processes, incorporating the famous brands Fehrer, FOR and Strahm. 

German Review

Saurer TechnoCorder TC2 for opening up new markets for industrial yarns.

Saurer TechnoCorder TC2 Techtextil is the leading international trade fair for technical textiles and nonwovens. As a regular participant, Saurer Twisting Solutions welcomes customers and experts from all over the world to its Booth D77 in Hall 12. The focus is the two-for-one twisting machine TechnoCorder TC2 with several innovations and valuable customer benefits. The Saurer TechnoCorder TC2 is a high-performance machine for twisting single and multiple yarns from a multitude of supply materials in a very wide range of count materials. The further development of the TC2 represents three decisive innovations and offers Saurer customers significant competitive advantages.

PreciWinding: just put more on it With the newly developed take-up area from Saurer, twist packages with precision winding can be produced on the TechnoCorder TC2 Plus in an outstanding quality. With their compact shape, high density and an exact edge structure, the packages demonstrate better unwinding behaviour. The reduced handling effort and the resulting increased productivity are easily noticed by Saurer’s customers. In addition, transport costs can be reduced by increasing the package density. This is an economic advantage, especially in the current environment.

Running smoothly with the oiling device from Saurer The responsible use of resources is

also of particular importance to Saurer‘s customers. For the recycling of big bags, for example, unmixed materials are required also with regard to the sewing thread. For finishing the twisted PP yarn, Saurer offers an oiling device directly after the twisting process. This new option sustainably increases the benefits for Saurer customers.

Maximum quality is indispensable Technical textiles are rightly expected to meet the highest standards, because they must be extremely resilient and guarantee best possible safety. Online monitoring of the quality parameters with our newly developed quality sensor ensures the required quality.

Mahlo to present variety of solutions at ITM 2022 in Istanbul German machine manufacturer Mahlo GmbH, will present its wide portfolio of solutions for the textile industry at ITM 2022 on June 14-18. The company will attend the exhibition together with long-time partner Masters Limited, which focuses on straightening and process control technologies for the growing Turkish textile market. They will also introduce a new generation of weft straightening machines, including the Orthopac RVMC-15 weft straightener

Having made a name with innovative solutions in the Industry 4.0 concept at the ITMA Barcelona in 2019, Mahlo aims to receive a strong return from the Turkish textile industry at the ITM 2022.

As per Adnan Andac, Regional Sales Manager, this will give the company an opportunity to present new equipment. Besides Turkish audience, the event will also be attended by visitors from neighboring countries like Egypt, Uzbekistan, Iran, etc. Mahlo will introduce their latest generation weft straighteners at the exhibition. The company aims to advise textile manufacturers on which systems is right one for their applications and problems.

Techtextil, Texprocess and Heimtextil Summer Special: bundled re-start for global textiles fairs in Frankfurt Techtextil, Texprocess and the Heimtextil Summer Special open their doors in Frankfurt am Main from 21 to 24 June. After the Coronarelated break, exhibitors and visitors are looking forward to personal interaction. Numerous innovations and further developments await the global trade public. The trade fairs taking place in parallel cover textile value chains from textile fibers and processing to the end product. With Techtextil, Texprocess and the Heimtextil Summer Special, Messe Frankfurt brings textile value chains together at its exhibition center. After two years of the pandemic, we are finally able again to look forward to new international face-to-face contacts, inspiring business encounters and a holistic, bundled and efficient market overview. In parallel, the D2C Neonyt Lab (24 - 26.6.2022) of Messe Frankfurt and numerous public events of Frankfurt

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Fashion Week, organized by the City of Frankfurt, are planned to take place in the city itself. This offers unique synergies all at one location. Exhibitors benefit from cross-selling opportunities and can establish business relationships in entirely new constellations. In one place, visitors will find global trends, products and innovations along textile value chains. The range spans from yarns and fibers to functional textiles, textile technologies and finishing processes to end products for textile furnishings, performance textiles, functional clothing and fashion. In the context of the increasing awareness of a sustainable circular economy, modern recycling processes will also be presented. With regard to the current Corona measures, the events can take place without capacity and admission restrictions and thus without proof of vaccination. Hygiene measures such as

online ticketing, fresh air supply, generous hall planning and intensive cleaning processes will continue to be implemented.

Texpertise Network: the global industry under one roof As a framework for Messe Frankfurt's overall global range of textile trade fairs, Texpertise Network offers valuable information on textile trade fair brands with 58 events worldwide and, as a platform for networking and exchange, constantly focuses on the latest resource and climate friendly developments in the industry. "The last two years have shown: As the world market leader for textile trade fairs, we have a great responsibility for the industry. In this role, we have successfully accompanied the textile industry through the crisis. Through our worldwide events, we have not only been

able to maintain orientation and global business relationships in the market in uncertain times - but also our top position," explained Detlef Braun, Member of the Executive Board, Messe Frankfurt, at the joint press conference. Recent global trade show highlights ahead of the strong re-launch in Frankfurt include Texworld Evolution Paris in February 2022,Interior Lifestyle in Tokyo in June 2022, and six other "Techtextil" and "Texprocess" brand events in North America and Asia. Since 2019, the Texpertise Network has been the link for Messe Frankfurt's cooperation with the Conscious Fashion and Lifestyle Network and the United Nations Office for Partnerships. The common goal: to make the UN Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) visible at all Texpertise Network textile events worldwide. Dirk Vantyghem, Director General at the European Apparel and Textile Confederation EURATEX, also gave an outlook on the further development of the textile industry in the joint press conference: “With the EU Textiles strategy now published, we have a clear roadmap ahead of us, how the European textiles industry will need to transform. The gathering in June will be an excellent occasion to present this roadmap, and get the necessary input from textile companies on the ground.”

Heimtextil Summer Special: global commitment and personal business Heimtextil will be held in June as a one-time Summer Special with 800 announced exhibitors and a high level of international participation from 47 countries. Both the international highvolume business and the retail trade are focus topics of the summer edition. Retailer-oriented suppliers can be found specifically in advance via the exhibitor search. Exhibitors with innovative textile solutions in the field of contract textiles will also be showing their new products in the summer. Beginning on June 21, the "Interior.Architecture.Hospitality TOURS" will be held - curated by AIT magazine, the bdia association of interior designers and the World-Architects network.

This summer's Heimtextil Trends "Next Horizons" has a clear focus on sustainability and resource conservation – located at the center of the exhibition grounds in Hall 4.0. The layout of the area is based on the Material Manifesto: local resources, environmentally friendly or loaned materials will be used for the stand design. Visitors can expect inspiring stagings of colors, materials, curated exhibitor exhibits, lectures and DIY activities. In the latest episode of the Heimtextil podcast, curator Anja Bisgard Gaede also looks at the trends from a very special angle and gives retailers practical preparation basics for their visit to the trend area. The "Heimtextil Conference Sleep & More" in Hall 3.0 offers representatives

of the bedding trade, environmentally conscious retailers and decision-makers from the hotel industry a first-class lineup of speakers with, among other things, the latest findings in sleep research, tracking technology and sustainability in the hotel industry. Another highlight are the one-hour Green Tours with an independent consultant to selected exhibitors with an exchange on the latest developments in the green segment. In the Green Village in Hall 3.0. experts for sustainable textile certification will be exhibiting, including the Blue Angel or the Green Button. Exhibitors with sustainable products can be found online via search. On site, their stands are marked with a leaf. The common goal of the cooperation with international partners is an increasing visibility of the SDGs at Heimtextil.

Techtextil and Texprocess await with innovations From June 21 to 24, 2022, exhibitors will present their innovations in the field of technical textiles and nonwovens as well as the processing of textile and flexible materials at the leading international trade fairs Techtextil and Texprocess. More than 1,100 exhibitors from 45 countries, numerous joint stand participants and 13 international pavilions are looking forward to presenting their products to an international trade

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audience. Techtextil and Texprocess highlight innovations, new processes and developments and progressive approaches with a view to sustainability. These include new production processes, materials and machinery. High investments in research and development over the past three years promise high innovative strength. At Texprocess, international manufacturers will showcase the latest machinery, equipment, processes and technologies for garment manufacturing and textile and flexible materials – ranging from design, cutting, sewing, knitting and embroidery to finishing, IT and logistics. "Exhibitors and the public set high expectations for Texprocess, the leading trade fair. After a break of three years, exhibitors present their developments to an international audience and anticipate investments. Visitors are looking forward to innovative solutions for more sustainable, more flexible and also more regional production. Texprocess drives the industry forward and finally enables personal exchanges and the forging and strengthening of business relationships once again," says Elgar Straub, Managing Director of the VDMA Textile Care, Fabric and Leather Technologies Association. With twelve application areas, Techtextil promises a wide variety and breadth of product offerings as well as

innovative strength on the part of suppliers – from car makers, fashion designers, medical technology specialists to industrial specialists. Exhibitors at Techtextil offer innovative materials for all requirements. For the first time, a Digital Extension of the two trade fairs will be offered. This enables visitors who cannot attend in person to experience Techtextil and Texprocess digitally and to exchange ideas in a virtual space. Exhibitors benefit from an additional digital presence alongside their stand on the exhibition grounds. For around four weeks, from June 13 to July 8, 2022, the Digital Extension will be available before, during and after the trade fair days. Sustainability@Techtextil and Sustainability@Texprocess will once again focus on the topic of sustainability this year. Innovative and sustainable materials and their ecological processing with minimal waste and water consumption as well as digital solutions will be presented and awarded at the trade shows. Many highlights await visitors on-site and digitally. These include the Techtextil and Texprocess Forum, the Techtextil and Texprocess Innovation Award or the areas for international start-ups. Techtextil, Texprocess and the Heimtextil Summer Special will take place from 21 to 24 June 2022.

VDMA: Next Stop Techtextil In the run-up to Techtextil, taking place end of June in Frankfurt, nine exhibiting VDMA member companies presented their highlights for the technical textiles market at a virtual VDMA kickoff event themed “Sustainable technologies for technical textiles”. A series of VDMA technology Webtalks are planned up to the fair as well Spotlight Talks during the show. Dr. Janpeter Horn, Chairman of the VDMA Textile Machinery Association and Managing Director of August Herzog Maschinenfabrik Dr. Janpeter Horn. stated in his introduction: “This year’s Techtextil is the first important exhibition and get-together for the textile industry in Europe since 2019. For the first time, VDMA will be present with a group stand in hall 12. Altogether, more than 40 VDMA member companies will exhibit in Frankfurt, underlining the importance of the fair”. The order of the company statements was along the textile chain:

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André Wissenberg, Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions Division explained: “Oerlikon in hall 12.0, booth C60, offers improved performance André Wissenberg. with sustainable solutions for manifold applications within the technical textiles markets: 2-end is antique, 4-end is old-school, 8-end was yesterday … and 16-end is Oerlikon! It’s now! It’s new! That’s modern production of high tenacity PET yarns today. With highest efficiency and best quality, production figures such as >98% full bobbin rate as well as up to 72 hours without a single break and up to 8.5 cN/dtex @1100f192 in AA-quality.” Wissenberg continued: “Oerlikon invites you to ride through modern production technology for high tenacity Polyester and Polyamide yarns with their innovative technology solutions. Furthermore, the company will show its latest meltblown technology called “hycuTec”. The hydro-charging solution can reduce the pressure loss in typical FFP2 filter media to less than a quarter. Even filtration efficiencies of more than 99.99% are easily achieved in typical

filter media of 35 g/m² at 35 Pa. Tests at pilot customers manufacturing FFP2 face masks have confirmed quality increases due to the improved filtration with a simultaneous reduction in material usage of 30%. For end users, the consequence is noticeably improved comfort resulting from significantly reduced breathing resistance.” José Canga Rodriguez, Dienes Apparatebau said: “The development of innovative and José Canga sustainable technical Rodriguez. textiles demands an efficient systematic and, in part, selfoptimising experimental working system. With MultiMode®, we offer maximum process flexibility. DIENES plants consist of intelligent modules that can be easily exchanged and rearranged. We support our customers in their work from the first laboratory tests to the modular construction of their production lines.” Dennis Behnken, Herzog stated: “For us at Herzog sustainability is not only a word. We live it. For already ten years we have been obtaining eco-friendly energy through the solar panels installed on our

roof. With a long-living machine design and energy-efficient motors we supply our customers with sustainable braiding machines. Even recycled yarns can be processed without compromising machine speed or product quality. At the Techtextil we show our second to none corecover braiding technology, Dennis Behnken, Herzog. completed with a new heat-setting device.” “The smart way to ensure more sustainability and greater transparency is to look directly into the machine with the drive as a sensor. This, coupled with the domain expertise to draw the right conclusions from the data obtained, leads to less waste, higher machine availability and improved processes”, said Falk Vespermann, Lenze. Christine Wolters explained what visitors to Techtextil can expect from Karl Mayer: “At Techtextil 2022 the Karl Mayer Group will present technological solutions for integrated and optimized processes that reduce resource consumption, energy use and waste within the textile value chain. Examples include the application of 3D-printed reinforcement structures on textiles and the incorporation of electronics for the production of wearables directly on warp knitting machines. In addition, sustainable alternatives for conventional textile products will be shown, including 4D-KNIT – a clothing solution for less microplastic pollution – and composites made from the renewable raw material flax.“

“Lindauer Dornier weaving machines cover the entire spectrum of fabric production from very fine to very coarse fabrics. Because no Wolfgang Schöffl of matter whether Lindauer Dornier. water, air, blood or gases are to be filtered: The demand for high-quality filter fabrics is growing worldwide. Among other things, this is due to stricter environmental and sustainability requirements, which demand ever more comprehensive performance parameters. In order to continuously improve the tightness and quality of filter fabrics, we are further developing our machines in close cooperation with our customers," said Wolfgang Schöffl of Lindauer Dornier. Dr. Wesley Clements, Baldwin Technology, explained how to eliminate chemical waste and reduce energy consumption in textile finishing: “Traditional textile finishing, by padding, is a wasteful, antiquated process. High pick-ups drive Dr. Wesley Clements, high energy Baldwin.

consumption and frequent foulard changes generate a lot of avoidable chemical waste. There is a revolution. There is a solution. Brands and mills are starting to see the light with the help of Baldwin’s non-contact precision spray systems. These systems increase product quality, improve mill profitability, deliver quantifiable sustainability benefits, and moreover provide traceability via OPC connectivity to the mill ERP system.” Matthias Wulbeck, Mahlo said: “Against the backdrop of current events in Europe and the extreme rise in energy Matthias Wulbeck, Mahlo. prices, online quality control in production processes in nonwovens and textile production is more important than ever before” and his colleague Stephan Kehry added: “Faulty productions, be it for example due to too large or too small an application quantity during coating, have an even greater impact and cause sensitive losses for the manufacturer. For more than 75 years, Mahlo has been supplying optimum solutions for quality control and energy saving, which is reflected in very short payback times and corresponding profit optimisation.” During the fair, VDMA member companies will present their solutions live in Spotlight Talks that will be streamed.

Andreas Mondry, Ontec Automation, summarised his presentation as follows: “For 25 years, Ontec has been offering to the textile industry sustainable and state-of-the art solutions in the field of: coating/winding/automated creel feeding/laid scrim production, robotic & automation, IoT – SPSCOMM, a universal interface for smart production in view of Industry 4.0. Ontec stands for: People driven innovation – our success are our people.”

Swiss Textile Machinery members drive filament yarn production for the expanding world of technical textiles High-performance yarns now offer almost unlimited possibilities for replacing traditional raw materials in a vast range of technical applications. Often tailor-made, these filament yarns go way beyond the conventional idea of ‘textiles’ – finding new uses in sectors such as automotive, aviation, maritime, medical and construction, among many others. Machines and technology from Switzerland are in the forefront of many such developments, producing the yarns which are the basis for these innovations. Technical textiles are everywhere in our daily lives today, even if we may not always realize it. Some are in more obviously textile products, from sewing threads to artificial turf. But then, take cars as an example: modern vehicles are stuffed with parts made from sophisticated yarns. It’s common for producers of automotive parts now to send template material and requirement lists to Swiss Textile Machinery members, trusting their expertise and experience. Members operate development and testing centers with latest machine installations, where their experts devise customized solutions, as well as calling on the pure innovative spirit which is part of their DNA.

At the extremes Technology drives applications beyond our current imagining in the case of Heberlein air splicers. Developed for a wide range of uses with high-strength technical fibers, they have no problems

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splicing aramid fibers up to 16’100 dtex, carbon up to 30’000 dtex, Dyneema up to 5’500 dtex, and glass up to 4’800 tex. Using compressed air, the splicers produce a tear-resistant, homogeneous splice of material without interfering knots. Retech has the technology to achieve impressive specifications for filament yarns, drawing and stretching fibers to perfection. Top heated godet rolls – many customized – are developed for highperformance fibers. Temperatures up to 400 °C can be achieved. Combining the right settings and wide speed ranges for each specific process results in unique end-products. Fabric producers of high-end applications must avoid any quality risk. Yarn producers are well aware of this responsibility, so they use precision package winders for technical yarns, developed by Rieter’s subsidiary SSM. Taking yarns from ring twisting bobbins, its specialist finish winders can produce coarse-count technical yarns up to 50’000 dtex, offering a new level of flexibility and winding quality.

Lifestyle essentials At first glance, motorists might fail to notice many of the technical yarns ‘hidden’ inside their cars. These products have functions such as providing stability with hardly any weight, or absorbing tensile forces at defined elongation. This

kind of controlled elongation behaviour, for example, arises from the choice of textile material and the special construction of the yarns used. Such specifications make twisting and cabling machines essential for the automotive industry. Saurer offers ideal machines for the production of technical yarns made from a variety of feed materials in a very wide yarn count range. They are needed for vehicle products such as tire carcasses, toothed engine belts, seat belts, airbags and lorry tarpaulins. Technical yarns also play a surprising role in our mobile devices. Tapping, scrolling and swiping are second nature for billions, with our phones and a plethora of other lifestyle essentials. Yet, how many people would know that the touch-sensitivity we take for granted on these screens is largely made possible by twisted glass fibers. Bräcker, part of Rieter’s components business, offers a well-balanced selection of vertical sinter metal rings and nylon travelers for glass fiber twisting, so that mills can achieve the highest levels of productivity and quality.

Future unlimited… Automotive and communication technology are already important industries for Swiss Textile Machinery members, along with well-known technical textiles markets in sectors such

The unlimited possibilities of technical textiles will fascinate the visitors at Techtextil exhibition in Frankfurt, Germany. Techtextil showcases latest machinery and technology to drive applications in the fields of technical textiles for architecture, the automotive industry, construction, clothing, hazard protection, aviation and aerospace, medicine etc.

 Steiger SA  Zeta Datatec GmbH

Companies displaying at different booths in Hall 12.0.  Autefa Solutions Germany, Booth D85.  Benninger AG, Booth B55  Gebrüder Maag, Maschinenfabrik AG, Booth B55

24 Swiss Textile Machinery members will present their latest innovations at this leading international exhibition. Some of them exhibit at the Member’s Pavilion of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association and some welcome visitors at a separate booth.

 Graf + Cie AG, Booth A70

Swiss Pavilion in Hall 12.0, B11.

 Saurer Technologies GmbH & Ci. KG (Twisting Solutions),

       

Bräcker AG Crealet AG G. Hunziker Ltd. Grob Willy Ltd. Heberlein AG Jakob Müller AG Loepfe Brothers Ltd. Retech AG

 Itema S.p.A., Booth A50  Luwa Air Engineering AG, Booth D18  Werner Mathis AG, Booth E93  Santex Rimar Group S.r.l., Booth B35

Booth D77  SSM Schärer Schweiter Mettler AG, Booth B55  Stäubli International AG, Booth D89  Trützschler Nonwovens & Man-Made Fibers GmbH, Booth

D80  Uster Technologies AG, Booth B55  Xetma Vollenweider AG, Booth A78

Eton’s automated technology has had a great impact on the productivity of thousands of garment production lines.

TMAS, the Swedish Textile Machinery Association Texprocess, Techtextil and Heimtextil shows – all taking place in Frankfurt from June 21-24 – members of TMAS, the Swedish Textile Machinery Association, will be showcasing a range of solutions aligning with the growing trend for more localised and automated textile manufacturing. Digitalisation and the push for more sustainable, shorter and less expensive supply chains are currently making manufacturing in high-cost countries within Europe more attractive and there have been many other contributing factors to this over the past two years. The Covid-19 pandemic exposed the vulnerability of many countries to shortages of essential items like PPE while at the same time making the full exploitation of new digital options essential during national lock-downs and long periods of restricted travel. The escalating cost of global transportation, as well as the growth of online retailing and the associated benefits of ondemand digital manufacturing, are further reinforcing the many benefits of short-run and near-shore new operations.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2022

Secure supply At Texprocess, for example, Eton Systems will be unveiling its latest Ingenious software solution which further enhances the company’s Opta Unit Production System (UPS) introduced in 2021,

energy and chemicals by as much as 90% compared to conventional jet dyeing systems. It is capable of carrying out the application of a wide range of fabric pretreatments and finishing processes, providing users with unbeatable flexibility in production.

“Our automated technology has already had a great impact on the productivity of thousands of garment production lines,” says Eton’s Managing Director Jerker Krabbe. “Our systems help producers across the world to reduce repetitive manual tasks and increase efficiency, which evens out some of the differences between production in high and low-cost countries, making reshoring a feasible option. Creating a diversified production portfolio with a mix of production facilities, some closer to home, makes for a more secure product supply.”

“Here in Scandinavia, we are currently seeing an explosion of companies developing sustainable new cellulosic fibres – many from waste clothing – but a problem is that all of the environmental benefits they deliver can potentially be lost in the further processing, and especially in conventional dyeing,” observes the company’s Founding Partner Per Stenflo. “The DyeMax system positively addresses this, but interest in it has not just been confined to Europe. We are currently seeing a lot of activity in Turkey – largely as a near-shore partner to European brands – but also in Bangladesh.”

Flexibility

Robotics at Heimtextil

Imogo meanwhile recently installed the first industrial scale dyeing system in Sweden for many years. The Dye-Max spray dyeing line has the potential to slash the use of fresh water, wastewater,

ACG Kinna Automatic specialises in automation solutions for filled products such as quilts, pillows and mattresses and its live demonstrations of robotics in action have proved a magnet for visitors

to Heimtextil. This year’s show will be no exception. “The use of robotics is now standard across many industries dealing in solid goods, but the handling of soft materials such as textiles is a little more complex,” says Managing Director Christian Moore. “Nevertheless, it’s something we have successfully mastered, and our robotic systems are proving highly beneficial to their users. There is no ‘one-size-fits-all’ solution when it comes to automation and our approach is always to carefully examine where it will make the difference in each bespoke system. A focus is on identifying and eliminating bottlenecks which will increase product flows.” During the Covid-19 pandemic, ACG Kinna drew on all of its automation know-how and extensive network of contacts to build a new nonwovens fabric converting and single-use garment making-up plant in a matter of weeks, in order to supply the Swedish authorities with urgently-needed medical gowns.

Instant colour Localised textile production is also booming in the USA, where Coloreel has recently secured multiple orders for its instant thread colouration technology via its US partner Hirsch. “Coloreel technology enables the high-quality and instant colouring of a textile thread while it is actually being used in production and can be paired with any existing embroidery machine without modification, while also making it possible to produce gradients in an embroidery for the first time,” explains VP of Sales Sven Öquist. “Advanced rapid colour formulation software and high-speed drive technology allow a single needle to carry out what it previously required many multiples of them to do – and with much more consistent stitch quality. By instantly colouring a recycled white base thread during production, our system enables complete freedom to create unique embroideries without any limitations. Colour changes along the thread can either be made rapidly from one solid colour to another, or gradually, to make smooth transitions or any colouring effect desired. This provides big benefits when it comes to sustainability and design creativity.”

Milestone Svegea will be promoting its latest EC 300 collarette cutting machine at Texprocess 2022. This machine is used by garment manufacturers around the world for the production of tubular apparel components such as waistbands, cuff and neck tapes and other seam reinforcements. With its E-Drive 2 system and fully automatic FA500 roll slitter, the EC 300 has an output of around 20,000 metres per hour. “Advances in automation are only making the specialised, bespoke machines we Svegea’s latest EC 300 engineer even more collarette cutting machine. efficient and we are expecting a very busy on the screen for complete quality year,” says Managing Director Håkan control. No fabric can be woven without Steene. “The garment components our the appropriate and correct tension.” collarette cutters produce make it logical for them to be integrated into the Fine tuning operations of making-up operations, “TMAS members are constantly finewherever they are.” tuning their technologies, both in terms Sensors of hardware and software, to better meet market demands,” says TMAS Secretary The advanced yarn tension General Therese Premler-Andersson. monitoring technologies of Eltex of “New automated solutions and digital Sweden meanwhile play an essential role technologies – which in many cases have in rectifying defects in weaving, tufting been crash-tested much more rapidly and composite reinforcement operations. than was planned due to Covid-19 “A correct tension of the warp and restrictions – mean localised production is weft threads ensures proper machine now making sense for many operation,” explains Eltex Global manufacturers and their brand customers. Marketing and Sales Manager Anoop K. I think its great that Texprocess, Techtextil Sharma “The constant tension monitoring and Heimtextil are all taking place in and automatic control of the tension of Frankfurt together, giving members of the thread help to overcome unnecessary TMAS the opportunity to showcase a full problems. range of possibilities across the supply “We continue to make advances in chain.” both the hardware and software of our TMAS members Eton Systems, imogo tension monitoring systems, such as the and Svegea will be at stand F41, Hall 8. EyE™ for the warping process. With the Coloreel is jointly exhibiting with EyE™, the yarn tension values from all embroidery machine maker Tajima at yarns are continuously updated and stand H44 in Hall 8. ACG Kinna will be at displayed on screen. In addition, tension stand E27 in Hall 3 as part of the values outside the warning level are Heimtextil show and Eltex will be at indicated both on the sensor’s LEDs and Techtextil in Hall 12, at stand E19. 

ACIMIT shows technical & innovative solutions with 29 companies The next edition of Techtextil, a trade fair for the technical and innovative textile sector, will take place in Frankfurt June 21-24, 2022. The return of Italian textile machinery manufacturers to such an important trade fair after the last edition in 2019 will once again see them in the spotlight. The Covid-19 pandemic has increased the demand for special-purpose textiles, especially in the medical and personal protective equipment sectors. So in 2021, the Italian textile machinery manufacturers registered a growth of their sales for the sector. Exports of machinery for the production of nonwovens have increased by 76 percent over 2019 and 85 percent over 2020. As in past editions, Italian Trade Agency and ACIMIT, the Association of Italian textile machinery manufacturers, are organizing an exhibition space reserved for textile machinery manufacturers. There are 29 companies exhibiting in the Italian pavilion. Of these,

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the following are associated with ACIMIT: 4M Plants, A. Piovan, Aeris, Beschi, Bombi, Bonino, Color Service, Corino, Cubotex, Fadis, Ferraro, Gualchieri e Gualchieri, Kairos Engineering, Lawer, Loptex, MCS, Mesdan, Monti-Mac, Noseda, Salvadè, Sariel, Srs, Stalam, Testa, Toscana Spazzole, Zappa. Other ACIMIT member companies exhibit with their own booths outside the Italian Pavilion. “Techtextil has always been a fair that Italian manufacturers look to with particular interest, commented Alessandro Zucchi, president of ACIMIT. The versatility of the Italian technological supply allows, in fact, Made in Italy machinery to be used in different application fields of technical textiles, meeting the different requests by the many visitors attending the event”. In the 2022 edition, the focus of Techtextil will be on sustainability, which is another strong point of Italian textile machinery. “Italian manufacturers have been committed to designing sustainable

Mr Alex Zucchi, the President of ACIMIT

machinery for years, both from an environmental and economic point of view, says Zucchi. Savings in raw materials, energy and chemicals are the basis of ACIMIT Sustainable Technologies project, and the Green Label, which a growing number of Italian textile machinery manufacturers boast, certifies the commitment of the Italian sector to contributing to the sustainability of the textile supply chain”. 

BMS Vision: Wide range of systems aimed at productivity, quality and energy management BMSvision will be exhibiting at TECHTEXTIL 2022 in Frankfurt with a stand in the Belgium National Pavilion in Hall 12.0, Stand D35, focusing on automatic on-loom fabric inspection, Industry 4.0 and energy monitoring solutions for the entire textile value chain. BMSvision has been a pioneer in the field of camera based on-loom inspection systems. Since the introduction of Cyclops 20 years ago, hundreds of looms are equipped with Cyclops for the on-line quality control of airbag, coating fabrics and many other technical fabrics. With its new product Argus, BMSvision again pushes the boundaries of automatic inspection as it extends the possibilities from inspection of plain fabrics towards complex Jacquard fabrics, such as OPW airbag. Through intelligent wireless networking of all production equipment in the mill, the BMSvision MES solution transfers the huge amount of production

and quality data originating from the various processes to a central data base and translates it into meaningful information for the managers. The BMSvision MES suite of applications includes software modules for real time monitoring, Business Intelligence (BI), scheduling, maintenance, quality, … The Management Dashboard application allows the combined presentation of data from different software modules into one single web-based report showing all KPI’s at a glance. The MyMES app, available for both Android and iOS, allows consulting of all important production and quality data any time, anywhere. With ever rising energy prices, consumption of energy has become a very critical cost component in the entire textile production chain. EnergyMaster, one of the modules of the BMSvision MES solution, makes all energy streams in the plant transparent and allows to allocate the exact energy cost to each

production batch. Excessive consumptions or consumptions while the machine is idle, are immediately detected and highlighted.

About BMSvision BMSvision, established in 2007 as a carve-out from the Barco group, is a leading supplier of Manufacturing Execution Systems (MES) for discrete manufacturing, with focus on the textile and plastics industry. Under the brand name BMSvision (formerly BarcoVision) and with over 40 years of experience as a former division of the Barco group, BMSvision offers a wide range of systems aimed at productivity, quality improvement and energy management. BMSvision is present at key locations around the world, either with own branch offices or through a world wide network of agents and service centers. 

FET-100 Series Melt Spinning System.jpg

FET highlights laboratory and pilot melt spinning equipment Fibre Extrusion Technology Limited (FET) is one of the world leaders in laboratory and pilot melt spinning equipment for a vast range of applications, such as precursor materials used in high value technical textiles, sportswear, medical devices and specialised novel fibres from exotic and difficult to process polymers. Where melt spinning solutions are not suitable, FET provides a viable alternative with pilot and small scale production wet spinning systems.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2022

However, FET will also showcase at Techtextil its more recent laboratory scale spunbond system, which enables client development of nonwoven fabrics in a number of formats and polymers. FET already has a number of spunbond systems in the field, including composite systems which utilise both spunbond and meltspun functions. A major theme to be highlighted on the FET stand is Sustainability. The FET

range of laboratory and pilot extrusion lines is ideally suited for both process and end product development of sustainable materials. FET has successfully processed almost 30 different polymer types in multifilament, monofilament and nonwoven formats, collaborating with specialist companies worldwide to promote greater sustainability through innovative manufacturing processes. 

Lenzing Instruments presents innovative testing systems for optimum quality Textechno group member Lenzing Instruments at hall 12, booth B52 presents quality assurance measurement systems for producers of filament yarn, staple fiber, nonwoven and woven textiles as well as for plastic film. Customers are offered solutions for various automatization requests, including laboratory testing equipment, at-line high volume testing instruments together with online monitoring systems. As a pioneer within the area of online sensor technology, Lenzing Instruments is an acknowledged partner for industry 4.0 solutions offering real-time defect control and continuous monitoring of vital material characteristics. Lenzing Instruments highlight following products:

PROMPT sensor technology for filament yarn The continuous and real-time process control of defects and vital yarn characteristics is given by the PROMPT sensor technology in combination with the PROMPT Visualization software. The system offers high reliability and multipoint access to monitored results. A range of intelligent sensors offers control of defects (fluff, broken filaments etc.), yarn diameter, interlace, spin finish and yarn tension. An even more thorough analysis of yarn defects is offered by Defect View and Fray View: Here, the PROMPT defect control sensors are combined with a highresolution camera, which generates images of detected broken filaments, fluff and other deviations from set quality levels. If used together with a yarn take-off unit, Defect View and Fray View can be applied for offline application in the laboratory; PROMPT LAB. This is also the case with the ELKOMETER: Up to eight yarn packages are simultaneously tested for yarn characteristics and defects. A special defect assessment mode triggers the yarn motion to be stopped immediately after detection which

Thermal shrinkage tester TST2

enables human inspection of the defects. Image capturing with a high-resolution camera is optional.

Inspection System CIS 300. State-of-the-

Spin finish control of single positions

fibers for the crimp distribution along and

art image processing technology enables monitoring of a huge amount of single across the moving fiber tow. Results can

For quick checks of the spin finish content on one single spinning end, the hand-held sensor OPUMETER provides fast and clear information about the momentary OPU/FOY content on the running filament yarn. Within seconds, results are displayed graphically and numerically on a portable evaluation unit.

Thermal Shrinkage Testing TST 2 is part of Lenzing Instruments offer of equipment for thermal shrinkage testing of filament yarn, tapes and plastic film. TST 2 tests up to two samples simultaneously for percent shrinkage and/or shrinkage force. The shrinkage behaviour is either observed at a constant temperature for a certain time period or during a temperature slope. The flexible software program also offers an option of customized testing sequences to be created.

High-volume fiber crimp inspection Online and real-time crimp control of staple fiber is provided by the Crimp

be traced back to specific bale ID’s and are given as average crimp count (counts/cm), long crimp, micro crimp and crimp distribution. The new intuitive and flexible software, higher image frequency and enhanced possibilities for monitoring fibers of a wider colour range characterize the new CIS 300.

Absorption testing of nonwovens Essential material tests for nonwoven topsheet (coverstock) aimed for hygienic applications include verification of performance indicators such as liquid strike-through, rewet and run-off. All three areas are covered by Lenzing Instruments Lister AC, Wetback and RUNOFF. INDA/EDANA-standardized function and design ensure for accurate and reproducible feedback on the fluid management of the nonwoven material.

Leading Brands of Textile Technologies to Make their World Launch at ITM 2022 The world’s leading machine manufacturers are preparing to exhibit their newest machinery and innovations they have developed in the last 3 years at the ITM 2022 Exhibition, which will be held between 14-18 June 2022. International Textile Machinery Exhibition ITM 2022, one of the most important events that brings together the world’s textile technology leaders, will be held at Istanbul Tuyap Fair and Congress Center on 14-18 June 2022. Yarn Technologies manufacturers, which took their place in ITM 2022, the first international textile machinery exhibition to be held after a 3-year break, are also preparing to introduce their latest developed machines and renewed technologies, just like all the participants.

“The ITM Exhibition will Bring Together the Industry’s Best and Brightest” Rieter CEO Norbert Klapper pointed out that Turkey is one of the largest exporters of textiles globally, building on centuries of know-how in textile manufacturing said; “Thanks to smart investments, the country’s textile industry showed remarkable resilience throughout the pandemic and today is more important than ever. What is even more inspiring is that in keeping with its global

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In the face of the climate crisis, customers are increasingly turning to Rieter’s recycling system to help them close the loop. Rieter systems are ideally positioned to support these efforts, as they are roughly 20% more energy efficient than lines made up of machines from different suppliers, thus lowering the carbon footprint.

Norbert Klapper; Rieter CEO

leadership, Turkey is also exploring ways to improve the industry’s environmental footprint. The ITM exhibition will bring together the industry’s best and brightest and we look forward to a stunning display of the latest in yarn manufacturing technology that is both good for business and good for the planet.” Norbert Klapper said the following about the innovations developed by Rieter that they will highlight at the ITM 2022: ” We have been delivering leading-edge technology to customers for decades so they can stay at the forefront of the industry and meet ever-more sophisticated demands from brands in Europe and around the globe.

With the Autoconer X6 now completing our portfolio in ring and compact spinning, we can support our customers even more effectively in their journey to success.”

“ITM is an Excellent Platform to Meet Our Customers” “Considering the importance of the Turkish textile market, ITM is an excellent platform to meet our customers and influences the whole region. There has been a tremendous growth over the past two years in our spinning segment in Turkey, despite the pandemic,” Pia Terasa, Head of Marketing and Market Intelligence Saurer Spinning Solutions continued her words as follows: “The Covid crisis has intensified discussion about on- and near-shoring. The close proximity to Europe offers Turkey an excellent chance to increase its

share of the European textile and apparel market. “

again and discuss the latest innovations of the industry with them.” Stating that they will introduce their new state-ofthe-art combing machine TCO 21 at the ITM 2022 Temath said; “Further, visitors can expect useful insights into our successfully launched pre-cleaner CL-X and our intelligent card TC 19i.

Pia Terasa gave the following information about the innovations and developments they will introduce at the ITM 2022: “For the Autocoro 10 rotorspinning machine, we will be introducing innovations that will profit both flexible recycling mills and high productivity mills. Our developments in both rotor and ring spinning are focusing on optimising productivity, saving resources and increasing machine intelligence in textile mills.

Both innovations contribute to a more energy-efficient spinning mill, especially through advanced air technology. Our goal is to support Turkish yarn producers on their way to find cost-effective solutions for manufacturing high-quality, sustainable end products.” Mauro Moro; Savio CEO

Expressing that they are excited to attend the ITM 2022 Exhibition, Moro said; “Savio will be exhibiting in Istanbul solutions-oriented portfolio to maximize machinery return on investment, both for machinery and for technical service. Savio offers numerous machinery solutions to support the quality of the final yarn product: winding, winding for continuous shrinkage, bulking and heat setting, TFO twisting.” Pia Terasa; Head of Marketing and Market Intelligence Saurer Spinning Solutions

Here our Senses mill management system plays an essential role as well. The Saurer pre-spinning portfolio has also seen two very successful years in Turkey. Visitors to ITM will also be able to learn more about the Autocard and our successful reference installations. Our team will also highlight future-proof options for automation solutions in spinning mills and our components division will have product news to announce at ITM 2022.”

Marzoli Marketing Department Officer Ilaria Scalvini emphasized that ITM 2022 will be Europe’s first international exhibition after a long break and said: “We are very happy to be able

Truetzschler to introduce New Combing TCO 21 Saying “Turkey has always been one of the most important textile markets for us.”, Head of Global Marketing of Trützschler Group Dr.Bettina Temath said the following about the Turkish market and the ITM 2022: “Despite the pandemic, we observed an outstanding demand for our latest spinning preparation machinery solutions in Turkey in 2021. This is why we are very delighted to finally meet new and existing customers and partners at the ITM face-to-face

ITM 2022 Exhibition will provide powerful boost to the Textile Industry: SAVIO

Ilaria Scalvini; Marzoli Marketing Department Officer

to return presence. It will be the occasion to meet our customers and compare with industry professionals, showing Marzoli high-value solutions.” Saying that for Marzoli the Turkish market is one of the most important and has always been a reliable partner,” Scalvini continued her words as follow: “This is why, during ITM we will present special solutions dedicated to this market needs.

Noting that exhibitions have not been held in the last two years due to the effect of the global Covid-19 pandemic, Savio CEO Mauro Moro expressed his views on the ITM 2022 as follows: “It’s very important to be back to physical events and meet in person our customers again, physical connection with buyers is very important for bounding partnership. We expect that ITM 2022 exhibition will further enhance the confidence and give a timely and powerful boost to Turkey’s textile industry.”

Marzoli to present new technologies for Spinning

Dr.Bettina Temath; Head of Global Marketing of Trützschler Group

Moreover we willl present the new technologies for the spinning process developed during these years, with a special focus on the potential of Industry 4.0 for the remote maintenance plant management.”

Fadis to preent the AQUAJET, air texturizing machine for SDY / FDY, PP, PES yarn Fadis General Manager, Raffaella Carabelli stated that they could not meet with their customers face to face for a very long time as a result of the postponement or cancellation of the exhibitions due to the pandemic. “It will be surely a very much expected and sought for exhibition.

Yoshimasa Kitai; Muratec Automatic Winder Product Manager

Manager said, “In the beginning of 2020, market situation was drastically getting worse due to start of pandemic and rockdown in Turkey. However, after 2nd half of 2020 till now, demands from Turkish market is very strong in spite of continous pamdemic situation.

Raffaella Carabelli; Fadis General Manager

Surely more than usual. The first ” real ” and important exhibition after ITMA 2019 If pandemic situation will allow it, we expect many visitors even from other area then usual one visiting ITM 2022, a part from Turkish customers.” Carabelli said. Emphasizing that the Turkish market is becoming more important day by day, especially as big brands try to relocalize their supply chains nearer to end users, Carabelli said: “Turkey is an integrated market processing all types of fibres and products. We are therefore planning to bring our latest devolopement , the AQUAJET, a unique concept of air texturizing machine for SDY / FDY, PP, PES yarn, very flexible, productive, efficient and easy to handle. Various machines are already working in Bursa area very satisfactorly.”

Muratec to exhibit Automatic Cone Winder QPRO EX / FPRO EX and VORTEX Spinning 870 EX Expressing that Turkey is a very important market for Muratec, Yoshimasa Kitai, Muratec Automatic Winder Product

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2022

Export of textile products from Turkey to European market is increasing, and this tendency will continue, so we are sure that importance and presence of Turkish market in textile fields will be stronger and stronger.” Yoshimasa Kitai said that as Muratec company, they will exhibit Automatic Cone Winder – QPRO EX / FPRO EX and VORTEX Spinning 870 EX at ITM 2022. “In Turkish market, for both 2 products, the number of installed machines are increasing thanks to high reliability from our customers with stable machine running and suitable after sales service. We are sure that ITM 2022 will be a good opportunity for us to establish stronger relationship with our customers and improve our products furthermore with actual customer’s voices.” Kitai said

EFFE Will Introduce 3 New Machines for the First Time at ITM 2022 Saying that “ITM Exhibitions are the unrivaled brand of this geography”, İhsan Mokanoğlu expressed his views on the exhibition as follows: “We launched the EFFE new PASHA model Stenter machine on June 1, the first day of the ITM exhibition in 2016, and we had the chance to introduce our machine to the masses. The launch success at this exhibition proved to us that the ITM Exhibition is

İhsan Mokanoğlu; General Manager and Member of the Board

not a local or regional exhibition, but an international one. Many of Europe, Russia and other Turkic Republics, the Middle East, North African countries, Asia, and the Asia Pacific countries care about the ITM Exhibition and participate. For this reason, as EFFE, we will launch our new machinery again at the ITM 2022 Exhibition.”

Demsan Will Exhibit Its Newly Designed Packaging Machine at ITM 2022

Tuncay Demirci; Demsan Export Manager

Demsan Export Manager Tuncay Demirci said that as a company, they continue to reach the needs and demands of their customers and produce solutions with both online and physical overseas fairs they attend even during the pandemic process. Emphasizing that they are eagerly waiting for the ITM 2022, Demirci said, “The fact that the ITM 2022 Exhibition, which is one of the most prestigious exhibitions for our country, is taking place after a long time, is a meeting that is missed for local and foreign exhibitors and visitors.

We hope that; ITM 2022 will provide basis for the development of cooperation between textile machinery manufacturers and suppliers, and a successful exhibition where the demands of the visitors will be met.” Saying that “It is a source of pride for us to be at the forefront of companies that turned the crisis into an opportunity during the pandemic” Tuncay Demirci, expressed the following about his preparations for the ITM 2022 Exhibition: “Our manufacturing technologies have been renewed in the last 2 years, and we have increased our production capacity with new systems and machines that will strengthen the infrastructure. We have become the solution partner of our customers, especially with our designs and applications for technical textiles, by expanding our engineer staff. We have designed and implemented important improvements that will increase efficiency in our Spreading machines and Precision Plaiting machines, and our new projects are mostly focused on the spreading and plaiting groups.

recent years, I think that Turkey has everything it takes to be successful.” “With the recent evolutions on the World market, the distributors realised the danger of being dependent of China as the only supplier. Therefor they are returning to other textile producing countries such as Pakistan, India, Bangladesh and of course also Turkey. Especially the geographical proximity of Turkey to Europe is a big advantage. In this perspective we forsee a substantial growth for the Turkish textile industry in the coming years. ITM 2022 will be the first international textile machinery exhibition where the recently introduced novelties will be on display: PicConnect, OmniPlusi Connect and OptiMax-i Connect.”

Toyota at ITM 2022 with Its Latest Model in Air-Jet Technology

A few years ago, Toyota started a new approach in order to conquer this important market and has meanwhile achieved the number one position in AirJet technology in Turkey. It is Toyota’s strategy to underpin this position even more in the future. Our expectations from ITM are always high as Turkey has become one of our most important markets in the

Itema will Presents Its Innovations Developed for the Last 2 Years at ITM 2022 Ferdinando De Micheli, Itema Sales Director said; “The ITM 2022 Exhibition will be the first exhibition after the long forced stop caused by the pandemic. That’s why ITM 2022 will provide the perfect stage to present all the latest innovations we’ve been working on over the last two years.”

Pointing out that Turkey is undeniably one of the major textile markets worldwide, not only in relation with its production volume, but also in terms of fabric quality, creativity and local know-

Picanol Launches of PicConnect, OmniPlus-i Connect and OptiMax-i Connect at ITM 2022 Picanol Marketing and Communication Manager Erwin Devloo explains the importance they attach to the Turkish market with the following words. “Turkey has a very long tradition in textile industry and up-to-date production facilities. When we add the textile knowledge they have gained thanks to the ongoing investments in Ferdinando De Micheli, Itema Sales Director

“The exhibition is an unmissable opportunity to meet again our customers, business partners and friends in person.” Markus Lichtenstein; Toyota Operations Director

Erwin Devloo; Picanol Marketing and Communication Manager

how, Toyota Operations Director Markus Lichtenstein said: “Turkey has become one of the major markets for textile production in the western hemisphere. As long as the political and economical situation remains stable, we strongly believe that this trend is going to continue for the next few years.

“Itema will welcome visitors at ITM 2022 with a product line-up designed to meet and exceed the most demanding Customers’ needs and to confirm once again its dedication to innovation and the Made in Italy excellence in the weaving sector.” On Wednesday, 15th of June at 11 the Itema Management will share the latest news about technological developments and company strategy with the press as well as to answer any questions.

Spotlight on the Montex stenter at ITM Monforts and its Turkish representative Neotek are looking forward to meeting customers old and new at the forthcoming ITM 22 international textile machinery show which is taking place from June 14-18 at the Tüyap Fair and Congress Centre in Istanbul, after a three-year break. “We will be emphasising the robustness and versatility of the Montex stenter for essential processes such as drying, stretching, heatsetting and coating at the Istanbul show,” said Monforts Area Sales Manager Thomas Päffgen. “The Montex has become the industry standard for the fabric finishing industry, providing a number of

advantages in terms of production throughput and especially in energy efficiency and savings.” “With energy prices rising steeply everywhere, features such as the MonforClean system, or the EcoBooster, in which waste heat from the drying process is used to pre-heat the drying air, are proving more invaluable than ever,” dded Ahmet Kilic of Neotek. “Monforts can provide a range of further resource-saving and energy recovery options tailored to each individual line installation. We expect fruitful discussions on how we can meet the needs of our many mill partners during this key Istanbul event.”

The Monforts and Neotek teams will be pleased to welcome you at ITM 22 in Istanbul.

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With the TwinAir heating chamber system within a Montex stenter, top and bottom airflows can be regulated completely independently of each other, ensuring heat is only applied when and where it is required. The Optiscan balancing system ensures continuous automatic evaluation of the distance between the nozzles and the fabric for highly economical and contact-free drying. The resulting constant evaporation rate within the stenter ensures optimum energy utilisation and also avoids markings on the fabric.With the latest Montex stenters, overall energy savings of up to 40% can now be achieved compared to a

Turkey’s first Montex®Coat coating system has recently been commissioned at Altun Tekstil in Bursa.

conventional stenter with no heat recovery or energy optimisation measures like high-quality chamber insulation.

management data, including full operating cost overviews, as well as maintenance monitoring.

automatic drives and control systems, going far beyond the basic replacement of spare parts.

The Montex stenter also benefits from full digital control, with the Qualitex 800 PLC control system providing ease of operation and rapid access to line and

Advances in digital technology mean that there are also now significant gains to be made in the retrofitting of existing Monforts machines with the latest

“We will be very happy to welcome you on our booth 1209B in hall 12 during ITM,” said Ahmet Kilic and Thomas Päffgen. 

Turkey’s first Montex®Coat coating system has recently been commissioned at Altun Tekstil in Bursa.

Picanol to present latest weaving machines at ITM Istanbul Picanol will be showcasing its latest technology in Hall 2, Booth 219 at the ITM 2022 fair. Four machines from the Connect generation be on display at the Picanol booth as well as the new and fully digital platform PicConnect will also be demonstrated. With these innovations, Picanol has once again confirmed its leading role among weaving machine manufacturers, the company said in a press release. “With our strong presence at this exhibition, we want to make a clear statement on the importance of this market for Picanol. Our team is really excited and looking forward to explaining how our innovations will ensure we continue to grow together with the Turkish textile industry and our customers in particular,” explained Kurt Lamkowski, manager worldwide sales. “On the occasion of the ITM fair, Picanol will also highlight its recently launched PicConnect platform. PicConnect offers Picanol customers a wide range of features, from industrial IoT to service-related applications. This includes, for example, the new webshop for Picanol original quality parts, which is called PartsLine. Therefore, PicConnect truly is a ‘must-have’ for all our customers. Going a step further and connecting Picanol weaving machines to PicConnect will allow Kurt Lamkowski, our customers to leverage the full Manager worldwide sales.

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extent of the machine possibilities. The brand-new functionalities, such as the applications for energy and production monitoring, the file management system, and the style administration application can be discovered at www.picanol.be/machines-features/picconnect,” continued Lamkowski. The Picanol weaving machines that will be on display at ITM Istanbul are OptiMax-i Connect-4-R-220 Fancy denim, OptiMax-i Connect-8-R-360 Curtain, TerryMax-i Connect-8-R260 Terry towel and OmniPlus-i Connect-4-D-220 Double face. OptiMax-i Connect-4-R-220 Fancy denim is a machine that is driven by data, relying on smart performance, with sustainability always in mind. . OptiMax-i Connect-8-R-360 Curtain enables home textiles to be woven without compromise. Available in free flight up to T-380, the machine allows ultimate weft versatility in combination with delicate warps, with e-Leno for perfect selvedges. TerryMax-i Connect-8-R-260 Terry towel is the benchmark for terry weaving. No limitations in design, combining maximum performance with ultimate versatility. OmniPlus-i Connect-4-D-220 Double face is an airjet machine equipped with SmartShed. This is Picanol’s directdriven shedding motion and it combines the best of both worlds: performance, flexibility, and energy efficiency. For complete features visit Picanol stand at ITM 2020 Hall 2, Booth 219.

Energy-efficient manmade fiber systems for the Turkish market Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions presenting at the ITM 2022 The ITM in Istanbul, repeatedly postponed due to the pandemic, will now take place at the Tuyap Fair and Congress Center with around 1,000 international exhibitors between June 14 and 18. The Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions division will be showcasing its solutions and technologies at the Tekstil Servis stand in Hall 3, Stand 313. The focus for the machine and systems builder will be on total solutions – from melt to yarn, fibers through to nonwovens. “Turkey is an extremely active market”, comments Sales Director Oliver Lemke, talking about the current mood in the country. “Our customers are hugely interested in factory projects that comprise everything – from the in-house polycondensation system through to the textured yarn, the accompanying automation and corresponding digital solutions. Basically, From Melt to Yarn and beyond.” The unbeatable benefit of such concepts is that procuring all process steps from a single source promises harmonized technology, whose design guarantees that the produced yarn is high quality. A further information focus will be on the topic of sustainability. There are currently many developments taking place in manmade fiber yarn manufacturing: mechanical and chemical technologies for recycling of bottles, but also of textiles and biopolymers as well as the circular economy – all these are already possible. With partners and subsidiaries, including Oerlikon Barmag Huitong Engineering (OBHE) and Barmag Brückner Engineering (BBE), Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions will be unveiling concrete concepts at the trade fair.

BCF technology: tangling 6,800-dtex yarns with the RoTac³ High-pile carpets and carpets for outdoor use are currently on trend, with demand for these high-margin yarns noticeably rising. The thick BCF yarns made from PP, PET and PA6 required can now be tangled using the RoTac³. In so-called plying, all three filaments are jointly fed through a tangling opening in the RoTac³ and then tangled. “BCF yarn manufacturers can now also use the RoTac³ for yarns of up to 6,800 dtex. They not only benefit from energy savings due to lower compressed air consumption and considerably more even tangling knots, manufacturers can also respond more flexibly to market requirements and hence expand their product portfolio”, explains Arnd Luppold, BCF Sales Director, talking about the

advantages of plying using the RoTac³.Even at high production speeds, tangling knots can be set much more evenly with the RoTac³ than in the case of other conventional tangling units. Frequent tangling glitches are now a thing of the past.This ensures better yarn quality and has a positive impact on further processing. The result: the carpet has a visibly more even appearance. Furthermore, compressed air consumption is reduced by up to 50 percent, depending on yarn type. The 3-in-1 plying package is optionally available for the BCF S+ and BCF S8 with RoTac³ systems and can also be retrofitted on request.

The Autoconer X6 is the key machine for highest efficiency.

Rieter presents Autoconer X6 is the key machine for highest efficiency Rieter is presenting the Autoconer X6 at the upcoming ITM 2022 in Istanbul, Turkey, taking place from June 14-18, 2022, which further improves the attractiveness of the company’s ring and compact-spinning offering by completing the system. In addition, Rieter is showing the roving frame F 40 which doffs at 90 seconds only. SSM’s NEO-YW precision winder is launching into the European market while three key innovations in components are being introduced.

With the integration of the Autoconer X6 into the Rieter system, the mill management system ESSENTIAL will open up over the coming years the potential for end-to-end transparency and optimization throughout all process steps. The roving frame F 40 was already introduced to the market at ITMA 2019. A precise bobbin build-up in combination with a doffing time of 90 seconds only and the option of setting the drafting system electronically are convincing customers to invest in this machine in combination with Rieter systems.

Autoconer X6 is the key machine for highest efficiency The Autoconer X6 is a globally recognized winding machine at the highest performance level, putting it on a par with all other Rieter machines. The winding machine serves as the final quality assurance in the ring and compact-spinning process and is key to the performance of the subsequent process stages. The latest splicer generation OZ1 (Ne 20 to Ne 120 and finer) and OZ2 (Ne 3 to Ne 40) provides an optimum splice quality based on an open prism. When splicing cotton-based elastic core yarns, duo-core yarns and multi-core yarns, the open prisms are used in combination with the Elastosplicer. This has already been successfully introduced in vertically integrated mills. The new Multilink system with Multilot offers maximum flexibility: Up to four ring spinning machines are linked to one Autoconer, with each ring spinning machine able to supply a different type of yarn.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2022

The fully automatic roving frame F 40 sets new standards with a doffing time of only 90 seconds.

NEO-YW to start European roll out in Turkey bringing more efficiency and sustainability to local

SSM is presenting the NEO-YW precision winder which brings to bear SSM’s unmatched winding expertise into one easy-to-use and high-performing machine. NEO-YW will kick off its launch into the European market at ITM 2022.

Components for higher performance and durability The newly acquired Accotex and Temco brands are adding strength to the components family, which now includes Accotex, Bräcker, Graf, Novibra, SSM, Suessen and Temco. Rieter is presenting three key innovations at ITM. Accotex’s new top and bottom aprons NO-79201 offer outstanding tear and abrasion resistance and superior friction properties. They can be applied universally, making service and stocking more efficient.

Accotex’s top and bottom aprons NO79201 feature outstanding tear and abrasion resistance.

Temco’s intelligent bearing solution i-Bearing for filament machines allows condition monitoring online. By identifying critical conditions, bearings can be replaced before they fail which helps to minimize machine downtimes.

Berkolizer pro advances UV treatment making it easily adjustable as an industry first.

Bräcker’s berkolizing technology of treating rubber cots with UV light to improve the surface has become an industry standard. At ITM, Bräcker is introducing the berkolizer pro which stands for consistent, energy-efficient, and adjustable UV treatment.

Opportunities and challenges to the spinning industry 2021 was an unprecedented year for the global spinning industry. Driven by the market recovery after the pandemic and the regional shift of the industry, customers invested in new spinning systems at levels never experienced before. And despite the current uncertainties, customers continue to invest. As market and technology leader, Rieter succeeded in this environment in posting a record order intake for 2021. This is clear evidence of the high level of trust customers have in Rieter. Dr. Norbert Klapper, CEO of Rieter, says: “Systems, machines, components, parts and services from Rieter have ensured competitiveness and Dr. Norbert Klapper, CEO of Rieter, success for customers over many years in the past and will continue to do so in the future.” Dr. Klapper also comments on the challenges that lie ahead for the industry as it takes advantage of market opportunities: “The pandemic is not over yet, and business is exposed to dramatic cost increases as well as shortages in material supplies and logistics. In difficult times, it is important to work together even more closely than under normal circumstances. It’s all about true partnership and trust – the basis of Rieter’s business for 226 years.”

Temco’s intelligent bearing solution i-Bearing reduces machine downtime.

Rieter can be contacted at ITM 2022 at TÜYAP Fair Convention and Congress Center, Istanbul, Turkey in hall 3-314 at booth C07. Once can also register to experience Rieter virtual booth from anywhere, anytime via www.rieter.com/company/virtualworld with the ITM 2022 edition going live June 10, 2022. 

Contaminated fiber

Controlling contamination: it starts at the beginning… Uster solution for flawless fibers and quality webs in drylaid nonwovens In medical, hygienic and cosmetic applications flawless end-products are essential. And that means contamination in the fiber raw material is not allowed. Uster Jossi Vision Shield N is the solution. It works right at the start, within the process line, eliminating even the tiniest unwanted particles and protecting nonwovens manufacturers from damaging claims. Three big upcoming events are ideal platforms for Uster to present its quality assurance solutions for nonwovens, as well as spinners: Techtextil Germany and ITM in Turkey in June.

Optimization in fiber processes Raw fibers from bales are opened and blended in the blowroom before carding, and this stage can significantly influence the quality of the end-product in drylaid nonwovens. Installing an Uster fiber cleaner in the line ensures highest level of

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2022

control over contamination in the carded fleece – and consequently the end product. The risk of contamination, such as small pieces of plastic, reaching the card is that it will be shredded into minute particles and then be incorporated into the material at web bonding. This kind of contamination would be disastrous in a hygiene or cosmetic application which comes into contact with sensitive human skin. With Uster Jossi Vision Shield N integrated in their fiber processing line, nonwovens producers can avoid that risk. Uster Jossi Vision Shield N uses imaging spectroscope technology to identify contamination in a fraction of a second, instantly removing it from the mass of good fiber material. Detection works across a much greater wavelength than conventional camera systems, so that contamination as small as a single

hair and in the lightest colors is pinpointed.

Proven contamination control for bleached cotton Uster Technologies has built experience and technological know-how over nearly three decades of fiber cleaning in spinning. Contamination is unwelcome in yarn, just as it is in fleece! Worldwide, 5,000 installations of Jossi Vision Shield fiber cleaning systems in spinning mills underline Uster’s success in ensuring contamination-free spun yarn. The same expertise also works for bleached cotton. Producers of items for cosmetic, medical and baby care can meet the required zero-tolerance demand for any contamination fragments larger than 1 mm. For best results in contamination detection, Uster Jossi Vision Shield N is integrated right after the opener in the

blowroom. At this stage in fiber preparation, detection is enhanced, since the fiber tufts are open, preventing any small contaminants being hidden inside them. Once identified, the contaminations are automatically ejected by the system, preventing contamination of the web. Some waste here is inevitable, but Uster Jossi Vision Shield N controls this by continuously measuring the speed at which the fiber tufts pass through. It then uses precision valves to time each ejection perfectly, so that only the unwanted contaminant is removed, with an absolute minimum of ‘good’ fiber being lost.

Fitting every line Uster Jossi Vision Shield N is the result of surveys, close collaboration with international nonwovens companies and countless hours of field tests. Installation is easy, since the fiber cleaner’s slim design fits perfectly into existing lines. The system readily copes with the pace of standard production environments – up to a capacity of 2,000 kg per hour. Uster ensures that the system is seamlessly integrated into production lines, adapting the position of the fiber feed and the main components with the imaging spectroscopes, for optimum results. Customers can choose between widths of 1,600 and 1,200 mm, with specific solutions available for challenging environments and with any type of material. Stainless steel inserts, in areas which come into contact with the fibers, guarantee unmatched durability. The future-oriented graphical user interface gives a quick overview of running performance in real-time, on a large high-resolution touchscreen, showing the most relevant data at a glance. User-friendly, quick and intuitive navigation makes data handling easy.

Challenge the experts Managing quality with Uster Jossi Vision Shield N at the fiber preparation stage gives manufacturers the total confidence that only contaminationcontrolled products are delivered. Uster is ready to meet this challenge for the nonwoven community. Expert first-hand information will be available at Techtextil Frankfurt, on the Uster booth B55 in Hall

Uster Jossi Vision Shield N installed at fiber preparation for nonwovens

Uster provides the globally-

12.0. The invitation also extends to ITM in Istanbul.

acknowledged Uster Statistics

About Uster Technologies

benchmarks for trading, textile know-

Uster is the world’s leading provider of quality management solutions from fiber to fabric. Uster Technologies offers hightechnology instruments, systems and services for quality control, prediction, certification and optimization in the textile industry. This includes systems for quality management, laboratory testing and in-line process control for fibers, staple and filament yarns, fabric inspection as well as value-added services.

how training, consulting and worldwide after-sales services – always aspiring to fulfill the textile market’s needs, to drive innovation forward with ‘quality in mind’. Uster Technologies AG is headquartered in Uster, Switzerland and operates worldwide. It has sales and service subsidiaries in the major textile markets and Technology Centers in Uster (Switzerland), Knoxville (USA), Suzhou (China) and Caesarea (Israel).

Stäubli at ITM 2022 – Solutions delivering greater benefits Stäubli is presenting an overview of its latest high-end technologies, machinery, and solutions that offer the textile industry more and greater benefits. Here is a summary of the exhibits. A world premiere for efficient Jacquard weaving SX PRO Jacquard machine answers challenging market demands The new Stäubli SX PRO responds to market demands for higher power efficiency and lower energy consumption. It incorporates all of the proven technology of the predecessor Stäubli Jacquard machines as well as several innovations to reduce energy consumption: low-friction design of the MX PRO module, power supply fully integrated into the machine itself, and a new ventilation system with optimized temperature monitoring. Equipped with up to 2,688 hooks, the SX PRO is perfectly adapted to the needs of the Turkish market, where terry cloth, apparel fabrics, tapestries, and upholstery fabrics are produced.

SX PRO electronic Jacquard machine

Visitors to the Stäubli booth can observe the new SX PRO Jacquard machine in combination with a Stäubli harness at a demonstration stand.

N4L narrow Jacquard machine enthuses weavers of luxury fabrics The N4L narrow Jacquard machine adds value to premium fabrics by weaving the brand name or logo into selvedges, which also safeguards against counterfeiting. It was unveiled at ITMA 2019 and has since become firmly established in the market. Many customers have sent us highly enthusiastic comments about the machine, some praising the revolutionary positioning mechanism, as the machine is easy to place anywhere along the reed with no need for tools. It is perfectly compatible with all weaving machines because the design was informed by our longstanding partnerships with many major players in the weaving industry.

Frame-weaving solutions for high quality and efficiency

N4L Jacquard machine for custom labelling on selvedges

High-speed S1792 cam motion for air-jet weaving Since its launch at ITMA 2019, the exceptional S1792 cam motion has made a name for itself around the world. With impressive speed and reliability, it squarely masters the two main challenges of air-jet weaving: quality and performance. This cam motion is available with a housing size of 10 lifting units. It is another convincing Stäubli solution that allows weavers to stay at the forefront of their demanding markets. S3000 / S3200 electronic rotary dobby family The rotary dobby is a revolutionary machine invented by Stäubli many decades ago, and Stäubli has been continuously developing it further. The third generation of electronic rotary dobbies, the S3000 / S3200 electronic rotary dobby family, is an evolutionary design. It incorporates the unique Stäubli locking system, which provides enhanced security for the selection of

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2022

the heald frames, allowing higher running speeds and superior reliability. This latest generation of electronic rotary dobbies offers astounding benefits to weavers. Newly developed transmissions with lower maintenance The transmission is a vital link in the frame-weaving installation, handling a great many loads and forces. Dedicated to continuous improvement, Stäubli has further developed its range of transmissions and now offers the e32/33 for lowmounted and the de82/83 for top-mounted dobbies. With sealed and patterned bearings, these new transmissions reduce the need for maintenance and enhance the performance of the overall installation.

S3260 electronic rotary dobby

SAFIR S60 automatic drawing-in machine featuring Initial Condition Settings (ICS) and Active Warp Control (AWC)

An S3060 dobby for rapier and air-jet weaving machines can be seen at the booth in operation with frames as well as an S3260 model with 16 frames in combination with latest maintenance-free transmission.

Enhanced warp quality through automation in weaving preparation Active Warp Control (AWC) on SAFIR drawing in machines The renowned SAFIR automatic drawing-in machines make it possible to shorten workflows, resulting in cost savings and expanding the variety of application possibilities. Equipped with state-of the art Stäubli technology, the so-called Active Warp Control (AWC), the SAFIR drawing-in machines feature capabilities such as colour recognition or yarn repeat management. Even warps with multiple colours and without a 1:1 lease can be drawn in, with no error or loss of productivity. The final result is a perfectly drawn-in weaving harness ready for the downstream weaving process. Visitors to ITM 2022 can witness for themselves the impressive efficiency of automatic drawing in with the SAFIR S60 model, dedicated to the needs of cotton fabric mills whose main applications are denim, bed linen, and plain fabrics for printing. Stäubli is exhibiting the SAFIR S60 (2.3 m wide model) drawing in a multi-coloured (5 colours) cotton warp sheet. The warp sheet is 1,750 mm wide and comprised of 8,650 ends (yarn count Nm 135) (Ne 9). The yarn is being drawn into 8 heald frames including healds made of steel with Jshaped end loops, drop wires, and reed. TIEPRO warp-tying machine – the new ‘must have’ Stäubli solution Another crucial process in many weaving mills is warp tying. Stäubli is presenting the TIEPRO warp tying machine together with TPF3B-10 warp tying frame. This

machine offers unique features supporting easy start up and processing of the warp to be tied. New staff can easily learn how to run the machine as the screen guides the operator. A standalone advantage of the TIEPRO tying machine is that if a double end is detected, the machine with its exclusive autoreverse function automatically reverses and redoes that yarn separation step. This process takes place before the yarn is cut. The machine does not require an oil bath and maintains high availability in the mill. Being demonstrated at the booth is the warp-tying process with a unicoloured cotton warp sheet, yarn count Nm 135.

Carpet-weaving systems and design technologies for any type of carpet Stäubli recently launched the ALPHA 560 UNIVERSAL carpet weaving machine. This new weaving system offers many redesigned features to deliver increased productivity while handling a wide range of carpet sizes and varieties. The enormous flexibility of this machine is supported by its real 3position LX2493 Jacquard machine, featuring the proven M6T module. In combination with the Multi Weft Selector (up to 6+6), impressive designs for carpets with weaving widths up to 5.3 metres can be woven. Latest carpet samples woven on the ALPHA 560 UNIVERSAL can be seen at the booth.

About the Stäubli Group / Stäubli Textile Stäubli is a global mechatronics solutions provider with four divisions: Electrical Connectors, Fluid Connectors, Robotics, and Textile. We are an international group based in Switzerland, with a presence in 29 countries. Our global workforce of more than 5,500 shares is a commitment to partnering with customers in nearly every industry to provide comprehensive solutions with long-term support. Stäubli Textile has been developing and producing highquality systems for the weaving industry for over a century. The company holds a strong market position in textile machinery, a position earned through the continual pursuit of customer satisfaction. Organised forward-thinking and in continual quest of the next great innovation Stäubli Textile helps its customers to work more productively, efficiently, and sustainably.

TIEPRO warp tying machine

More examples of Stäubli products in numerous applications with Jacquard machines, dobbies, and cam motions can be seen during ITM 2022 at various booths of Stäubli partners.

Savio at ITM ISTANBUL 2022 exhibition: solutions-oriented portfolio to maximize machinery return on investment Savio will be attending “ITM ISTANBUL 2022” exhibition, taking place in Istanbul, Turkey, from 14th to 18th June 2022. It is very important to be back to physical events and meet in person our customers again. Turkey is one of the biggest textile markets for Savio, so attention to Turkish customers is fundamental to support their new projects with the most advanced and automated machines. Savio will be exhibiting in Istanbul solutions-oriented machinery portfolio: winding, winding for continuous shrinkage, bulking and heat setting and TFO twisting. To decide which spinning technology is best suited to your needs, Savio offers numerous solutions to support the quality of the final yarn product. To quote a few solutions for Turkish market:  SAVIO SOLUTIONS FOR DENIM YARN PROCESSING: Savio automatic winders can easily process special

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - May 2022

yarns, such as the current very demanded product like the dual core spun yarns. The Savio winding unit is equipped with clearing, splicing and tension control devices for ensuring perfect splices and perfect package shape.  SAVIO SOLUTIONS FOR ACRYLIC YARN PROCESSING: Many years of experience and a close collaboration with customers have allowed Savio to offer several solutions for production of acrylic yarns. The effect of the Volufil machine process gives acrylic fibers dimensional stability, higher volume, wrinkle resistance or temperature resistance, which acquires a regular geometrical structure with excellent volume. “Multicone” technology and Sirius twisting machines are also addressed to our customers producing acrylic packages for dyeing, knitting and home furnishing.  SAVIO SOLUTIONS FOR PACKAGES FOR DYEING PROCESS: The yarn package weight and density are two important parameters which are to be

standardized for uniform and trouble free dyeing. The soft package winding is the most important pre-dyeing operation, which directly affects not only the dyeing quality but also post dyeing operations. Savio winding machines for all kind of short staple yarns, are suitable for dye package winding, warping preparation and rewinding with or without waxing devices.  SAVIO SOLUTIONS FOR CELLULOSIC and TENCEL™ FIBER YARNS PROCESSING: According to the complexity in the production process of TENCEL™ fiber, Savio pays great attention to yarn control during the winding process.  SAVIO SOLUTIONS FOR SUPER FINE YARN PROCESSING: Savio Multicone technology and Sirius twisting machines are especially addressed to our customers producing packages for dyeing and very fine counts, from Nm 200 and above.

Look forward to meet you at Hall 3 Booth 311A! 

New inspection technologies for improved production processes Erhardt+Leimer at ITM 2022 in Istanbul Two years later than originally planned, ITM, one of the world's largest trade fairs for textile machines, is taking place again in Istanbul from June 14 to 18. Here the Erhardt+Leimer group will present, along with its proven systems and devices for web automation, two new inspection technologies, a seam sensor and a metal detector, for the detection of cross-seams and pieces of metal in the web. With these devices, production processes can be optimized and made more reliable.

The metal detector MD 1005 protects textile machines against damage due to pieces of metal, e.g. broken needles, in the web

Sensor acquires cross-seams as reliably as the human eye The seam sensor marketed with the identifier SI 1001 detects, optically and therefore without contact, any type of seam on printed or single-color fabrics. New software algorithms make it possible for the first time to acquire cross-seams at the level of human perception. Along with a light transmitter and a matrix camera with lens, the sensor also includes a WLAN card for reliable communication with a smartphone, tablet or any other mobile terminal device. A dedicated app is also available using which, for instance, special seams can be tested offline. If a cross-seam is detected, a digital output in the sensor is switched so that, depending

on the machine, for example the calender rollers can be opened, the shearing blade raised briefly or the seam left to run through the digital printing press without printing. The seam sensor can also be used to calculate the running meters per batch.

(300 mm) a signal LED on the sensor indicates the position of the metal particle in the web. The metal detector can be used for dry and damp web textiles, nonwoven fabrics and carpets. Its function is assured at production speeds from 2 to 500 m/min.

Metal detector with segment-by-segment evaluation

Web cleaning for various application areas

During the production of textiles, small metal particles find their way into the web due to the various processing steps. If these particles are not all detected, extremely costly damage may occur on the downstream calender rollers and shearing tools. In addition, there is also a risk of catalytic reactions in wet finishing. As a result, whole web sections are often converted into scrap. The metal detector ELMETA MDA 1005 / 1006 reliably and accurately detects the smallest metal particles over the entire width of the web. Per The seam sensor SI 1001 detects a very wide range of seams, even on printed textiles, thanks to special algorithms segment

ELCLEAN is a modular web cleaning system for the removal of dust and similar soiling in production lines where there is only little space. The system consists of components such as brushes and fabric rollers, as well as components that operate without contact such as powerful fans and a highly efficient vacuum system. The system is equipped with all components or only with certain components depending on the application. Suitable filter systems make possible straightforward, reliable disposal of the soiling. The system is available in both a cantilever version for narrow webs and with support on both sides for wide webs. It can be integrated into production lines or operated as a standalone machine. E+L will be present at ITM together with ITEKS and other partners in hall 14 on stand 06B.

Classified

ADVERTISERS INDEX MAY 2022

Archroma..................................................................IFC AVM Chemicals .....................................................6 & 80 Brueckner .............................................................FC&38 Chhipasons.................................................................80 CCI USA.....................................................................BC Fongs .........................................................................11 IGATEX Pakistan 2022 ................................................33 Intex South Asia .........................................................53 ITMA Asia + Citme 2022 ............................................45 ITM 2022 ..................................................................IBC iTextiles ......................................................................19 Jet Logistics ................................................................80 MS Printing ................................................................13 Established 1951

Established 1951

Picanol ........................................................................1

March 2022

Swiss Review

“The Archroma Way to a Sustainable World: Safe, Efficient, Enhanced. It’s our nature.”

Rastgar ............................................................... 21 & 80 Rieter ..........................................................................9 Truetzschler .................................................................3

Mujtaba Rahim, President & CEO, Archroma Pakistan Limited

April 2022

Dyeing, Printing and Finishing I / FESPA 2022

Pakistan Textile Journal, May 2022

Articles inside

E+L: New inspection technologies for improved production processes

Savio presents strong portfolio to maximize machinery return on investment

Stäubli at ITM 2022 – Solutions delivering greater benefits

Oerlikon: Energy-efficient manmade fiber systems for the Turkish market

USTER: Controlling contamination: it starts at the beginning

Rieter presents Autoconer X6 is the key machine for highest efficiency

Picanol to present latest weaving machines at ITM Istanbul

Monforts: Spotlight on the Montex stenter at ITM

Leading Brands of Textile Technologies to Make their World Launch at ITM 2022

FET highlights laboratory and pilot melt spinning equipment

TMAS, the Swedish Textile Machinery Association

Lenzing Instruments presents innovative testing systems for optimum quality

ACIMIT shows technical & innovative solutions with 29 companies

BMS Vision: Wide range of systems aimed at productivity, quality

Swiss Textile Machinery makes its mark in the expanding world of technical textiles

VDMA: Next Stop Techtextil

Techtextil, Texprocess and Heimtextil : Re-start for global textiles fairs in Frankfurt

AUTEFA Solutions - committed to technology that is both innovative

DiloGroup highlights production technologies with a focus on needle felts

Growing Together: The Karl Mayer group Turns 85

Setex: Measurement of characteristic fabric-design parameters

Monforts: Real energy savings are more important than ever

VDMA: Dr. Janpeter Horn New Chairperson of Textile Machinery Association

ARTE EN DENIM extends its machine park with BRÜCKNER POWER FRAME

MS Printing: Digital Textile Printing is the answer to sustainable production

Oerlikon Barmag celebrates 100th anniversary

Brückner: Investment in BRÜCKNER ensures high quality and efficient production

Post Covid Fashion Trend

TC 19i outperforms competitor’s card in head-to-head trials

ANDRITZ to supply a second Needlepunch Line to MANIFATTURA FONTANA

Rieter: The Easy Way to Upgrade Your Yarn

CCI: Trust in a Smarter Cotton Future