Pakistan Textile Journal – November 2021 by Pakistan Textile Journal

Established 1951 November 2021

Environment and Sustainability

Calendar of Events

FILTECH 2022 DOMOTEX Hannover 2022 Dates: January 13th to 16th 2022.

Dates: March 8th to 10th, 2022 Venue: Cologne, Germany.

Dates: September 1st to 4th 2022. Venue: Expo Centre, Lahore.

Venue: Hannover, Germany.

DOMOTEX asiaCHINAFLOOR 2022 Apparel Sourcing Paris Autumn

IGATEX Pakistan 2022, Lahore

iCADEX Pakistan 2022, Lahore

Dates: May 25th to 27th 2022.

Dates: September 1st to 4th 2022.

Venue: NECC, Shanghai, China.

Venue: Expo Centre, Lahore.

Dates: February 7th to 9th 2022. Venue: Paris

Cinte Techtextil China FESPA 2021 Apparel Sourcing Paris Autumn

Dates: May 31st to June 3rd 2022.

International Trade Fair for Technical Textiles and Nonwovens

Venue: Berlin, Germany.

Dates: September 6th to 8th, 2022. Venue: Shanghai New International Expo Centre, Shanghai, China

Dates: February 7th to 9th 2022. Venue: Paris

ITM 2022 Dates: June 14th to 18th, 2022.

Istanbul Yarn Fair

Venue: Istanbul, Turkey.

ITMA ASIA + CITME 2022 Dates: November 20th to 24th, 2022. Venue: NECC, Shanghai, China.

Dates: February 22nd to 26th 2022. Venue: Istanbul, Turkey.

Techtextil 2022, Frankfurt Dates: June 21st to 24th, 2022

Index 2023 Dates: April 18th to 21th, 2023. Venue: Palexpo, Geneva, Switzerland.

Venue: Frankfurt am Main.

Textile Asia 2022, Karachi Dates: March 26th to 28th 2022. Venue: Expo Centre, Karachi.

Textile Asia 2022, Karachi Dates: March 26th to 28th 2022. Venue: Faisalabad Expo Centre.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - November 2021

INTEX SOUTH ASIA 2022

ITMA 2023

Dates: July 27th to 29th 2022.

Dates: June 8th to 14th, 2023.

Venue: Colombo, Sri Lanka.

Venue: Milan, Italy.

Founded in 1951 by Mazhar Yusuf (1924-2009) Vol. LXX No. 11 November 2021

Publisher Nadeem Mazhar

Rs. 450.00

EDITOR’S PAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 Energy crisis hampering growth of textile sector

Editor in Chief Amina Baqai

TEXTILE BRIEFS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Associate Editor Dr. Noor Ahmed Memon

NEWS & VIEWS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Production Manager Mazhar Ali

AROUND THE WORLD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 CORPORATE NEWS James Heal presents new AirPro instrument for air permeability testing . . . . . . . . . . . . .22

Hony-Editorial Board

Trützschler establishes the Foundation for Children and Youth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 LYCRA Company driving digital transformation for the apparel industry . . . . . . . .25

Dr. Hafizur Rehman Sheikh Ph.D (UK) F.T.I. (UK)

Archroma awarded Ecovadis Platinum Medal CSR performance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

Syed Mahfooz Qutab C.TEX, F.T.I (U.K), B.Sc. Fellow I.C.T.T Atlanta, GA; (USA)

Dr. Zubair Bandukda PhD (Textiles), CText ATI

Editorial & Advertising Office

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26 PERSONALIA A new dynamic for the TMAS board . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Dr. Suzanne Thoma to not stand for re-election in 2022 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 Christophe Aussenac assumes Fespa presidency . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

DYES AND CHEMICALS Bolger & O’Hearn: Shell-Tech Free, the latest in ultra-durable, fluorine-free water repellence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

CONFERENCE Belt and Road Textile Conference 2021 concluded with success . . . . . . . . . . . .34

FAIRS AND EXHIBITIONS INDEXTM 20 exhibition concludes successfully . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38

Dilo Group reports successful participation at INDEX . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 GKD generates geat interest in its solutions for the nonwovens industry . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 New ITMAlive series features textile industry trending topics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 JIAM 2022 OSAKA set to return in November 2022 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Leading brands of weaving technologies will launch at ITM 2022 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 Kingpins24 Amsterdam Program + Fabric Sourcing Component Added to Digital Event . . .46

FEATURES 10th ITMF Corona-Survey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48

TMAS members showcase sustainable finishing technologies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 Peter Haettenschwilerhe doyen of silk testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52

EVENTS The Multan Chamber of Commerce and Industry honors Syed Mahfooz Qutab . .54

EDITOR’S PAGE

Energy crisis poses the biggest threat to the textile sector Wrong decisions and priorities of different governments over the last few decades have led to the fast depletion of natural gas in the country. More than 35% of energy, the highest in the energy mix of the country is from natural indigenous gas. Oil is 31 per cent of the total energy needs. At present Pakistan

Established 1951 November 2021

Environment and Sustainability

imports 33% of energy including oil, LNG, liquified natural gas, liquified petroleum gas and coal. The deficit in the balance of payments is getting worse every year as we import more than US$ 20 billion of our energy mix. Almost all the oil we consume is imported. At the rate, natural gas reserves are depleting the crisis is expected to be even more acute and reach a crisis in the next few years. Due to the unreliability of the national power grid, the industry over the decades has invested in captive power plants run on natural gas to ensure reliable,

November 2021.

uninterrupted and inexpensive electricity to meet the local demand of goods as well as exports which are the most important source of foreign exchange for the country. Almost all the hard-earned export proceeds are spent on importing oil and gas to meet the energy requirements domestic and industrial. Currently, the situation of gas supply has reached a crisis. Supply to the industries has been stopped or the pressure is too low to operate and run the mills to meet export orders gained in the last year. The target to increase exports to US$ 30 billion is doubtful as the textile sector cannot operate without gas to run the industries. Factories are facing interruption of gas supply for nearly 16 hours a day. The situation according to Jawed Bilwani, former president of SITE Association and industry representative the supply of gas is getting worse every day and export consignments are at risk. While it is believed, that the government has exempted export sectors from gas load-shedding and it is being supplied to their captive power plants for industrial use, the factories are experiencing a widespread interruption in gas supply. According to Bilwani, many export industries that have RLNG connections are paying US$ 15.67 per MMBtu. Even with this high tariff, gas is available for just eight hours a day. Adding to the woes, Pakistan State Oil (PSO) has stopped supplying furnace oil and diesel to the exporters. The bulk of textile mills are cogeneration and use gas to produce electricity. The national power sector is inefficient with transmission and distribution losses and unable to ensure a reliable supply of power required to run the export industries efficiently. The entire textile sector is facing a dire situation and stands to lose hard-earned gains due to the woeful energy situation. Important to note that both short term solutions and long term policies are needed to meet the immediate crisis and develop a comprehensive road map to ensure energy security for the country. 

Textile Briefs National

Czech Ambassador has

development between the

Bureau of Statistics (PBS) and

said his country is keen

two countries also create

All Pakistan Textile Mills

to strengthen eco-

broad space for closer coop-

Association (APTMA).

eration.

Exports of various categories of value-added textile goods went up substantially in July-October period of this financial year compared to the corresponding period of previous year, as per latest figures released by Ministry of Commerce.

nomic relations with Pakistan and asked the Pakistan investors to take full benefits from (GPS+) status – grant-

Pakistani Consul

General, Shanghai, Hussain Haider has

ing duty-free access to

said that 2021 has been an

Pakistani manufacturing

excellent year for Pakistan-

products to the European

China bilateral trade. Driven

Union market and making

by China-Pakistan Free Trade

the investment in potential

Agreement Phase, Pakistan

sectors in the Czech Republic.

exports to China have

Vice President of

increased more than 76%

CCCT has said that

year-on-year in the first three

China and Pakistan are

quarters despite the pan-

both major producers and exporters of textiles and surely there is a degree of competition between both

demic. Country’s textile

exports stood at $4.76 billion in July-October

countries. However, the dif-

period of last fiscal year, as

ferent stages of industrial

per the figures of Pakistan

yarn import in recent meeting for value added textile Sector. He said that this would not only reduce the price of yarn but also help in controlling the availability of yarn as well as speculation.

Surging cotton rates in local and global markets are feared to hit Pakistan’s textile exports hard as a huge increase in cost of production would drastically compromise their competitiveness, industry officials said recently.

PHMA Zonal Chairman, welcomed the decision of government to reduce the duty on

The rate of quality cotton remained stable at Rs18000 per maund while the rate of Phutti remained stable at Rs 9000 per 40 kg and the spot rate remained stable at Rs 17500 per maund. 

PHMA called on the government to take back its decision to remove gas subsidy for the export-oriented sector, and urged to continue supplying subsidised gas at Rs6.5/unit.

8 9

Textile Briefs International

BGMEA has urged the government to intensify its efforts in attracting more FDI in potential sectors as Bangladesh needs more investments in the backward linkage textile sector, particularly woven.

The textile industry of China grew steadily during the first three quarters of this year with textile firms collectively raking in profits worth 171.1 billion yuan (approximately $26.80 billion), a 31.7 per cent increase year-on-year (YoY).

The pilot project on skilling of design/commissioning technical personnel associated with application of geotextiles in infrastructure projects been approved by the Indian ministry of textiles. It will be conducted concurrently by Indian Institute of Sciences Bangalore, Indian Institute of Technology (IIT) Madras; and IIT Roorkee.

Exports of machinery from Germany recorded high growth in the third quarter 2021, rising by 8.8 percent year-on-

Italy's textile machinery sector has welcomed the latest statistics from ACIMIT, which show that the index of orders intake for the

2 3 8

year to 44.6 billion euros, as reported by the Federal Statistical Office based on provisional figures.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - November 2021

industry was up by 66 per cent for the period from July to September 2021 compared to the same period in 2020. The Philippine Textile Research Institute has developed an environment-friendly shoes insoles, through the 'Diversification of Philippine Textiles through Nonwoven Innovations R&D Programme' or with natural textile fibre-based nonwovens and knitted and woven fabrics.

After registering a steep fall of 21 per cent year-on-year to $4.423 billion last year, textile and garment exports from Sri Lanka are likely to cross $5-

billion mark in 2021, as the island nation has already earned $3.893 billion until September, growing at 18.5 per cent year-on-year. The U.S. Cotton Trust

Protocol, a farm level, science-based program

developed as a new standard for more sustainably grown cotton, is officially a year old. And it’s been a busy and productive year. Vietnam’s ministry of

industry and trade (MoIT) recently fore-

cast that the total importexport revenue this year may reach $640-$645 billion, with a slight trade deficit.

Czech envoy keen to strengthen economic ties with Pakistan Ambassador of the Republic of Czech to Pakistan, Tomas Smetanka has said his country is keen to strengthen economic relations with Pakistan. He Ambassador of the asked the Pakistan Republic of Czech , investors to take full Tomas Smetanka benefits from Generalized Preferences Scheme-Plus (GPS+) status – granting duty-free access to Pakistani manufacturing products to the European Union market and making the investment in potential sectors in the Czech Republic that would help strengthen the economy and relations. The envoy was speaking to the members of the business community during a meeting, chaired by Sarhad Chamber of Commerce and Industry (SCCI) President Hasnain Khurshid. Barrister Asad Saifullah Khan, Honorary Consul General of the Republic of Czech in Peshawar and Deputy Head Malik Riaz Ahmad Awan, Iftikhar Khan, others were present in the meeting.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - November 2021

Tomas Smetanka said that his country was making efforts to improve trade and economic ties with Pakistan. He said Pakistan had been granted GPS+ status, through which Pakistani exporters, mostly textile, leather sectors, were taking full benefits from this special scheme. However, he emphasized that Khyber Pakhtunkhwa businessmen should take advantage of this golden opportunity of GPS+ scheme and make investments in potential sectors of the Republic of Czech. The SCCI chief stressed the need for bolstering trade between Pakistan and the Republic of Czech said that the mutual trade volume between the two countries would go up by reaping the benefits of GSP+status. He said there was a huge potential to boost mutual trade and economic relations between Pakistan and the Republic of Czech, which should be exploited effectively and efficiently. Ahmad Ghani, Minister for Labour and Culture Shaukat Yousafzai, former governor Iqbal Zafar Jhagra, and others. The day is celebrated on October 28 which is known as the foundation of the Independent Czechoslovakia State in 1918 when Czechoslovakia came into being. But the celebration was delayed in KP due to Covid-19.

Sino-Pak cooperation in textile industry untapped; President CCCT “China and Pakistan are both major producers and exporters of textiles and surely there is a degree of competition between both countries. However, the different stages of industrial development between the two countries also create broad space for closer cooperation,” noted Zhang Xi'an, Vice President of China Chamber of Commerce for Import and Export of Textiles (CCCT), while taking an exclusive media interview. Pakistan is one of the world's leading cotton producers, ranking among the top five in terms of yield, with cotton textile products accounting for 40% of its exports. Talking about competition, “Pakistan’s cotton industry has obvious edge. Compared with China, Pakistan’s home textiles and garment products have certain competitive advantages in the European Union and the United States,” Zhang told to media. In terms of bilateral cooperation and exchange, “Pakistan and China are perfect partners and there’s a lot that can be done,” remarked Zhang. According to Pakistani customs statistics, Pakistan’s imports of textiles and apparel from China accounts for 62% of its total imports, which makes

News & Views Zhang further said, “the potential of a ‘combination of strengths and weaknesses’ provides opportunities for deepening cooperation between the two countries' textile industries.” “China is willing to strengthen investment cooperation with Pakistan in the textile and garment industry,” Zhang highlighted, adding that collaboration and competition coexist for textile industry in both countries and Sino-Pak co-operation in textile industry is untapped.

China its largest source of textile and garment imports. As per statistics released by General Administration of Customs of China, imports from Pakistan are mainly cotton yarn and Pakistan ranks third among China's import sources of cotton yarn. As a major garment producer, Pakistan's export of home textiles, clothing and other processed products to the European Union, the United States

and other countries and regions has witnessed a rapid growth these years, which has also driven the rapid growth of yarn and fabric imports from China, promoting the cooperation between China and Pakistan in the industrial chain. Also, China is competitive in brand building, enterprise management, capital operation, talent cultivation, industrial facilities and other aspects, which are of great use for Pakistan's textile industry.

Established in October 1988, China Chamber of Commerce for Import and Export of Textiles (CCCT), as part of Ministry of Commerce, China, is the largest textile and apparel trade agency both in China and the world. Its member companies comprise the majority of Chinese textile and apparel enterprises incorporating domestic manufacturers, export and import enterprises as well as jointly-funded operations, the trade volume of which accounts for 70% of the total export and import volume of Chinese textile and apparel industry as a whole.

News & Views

Exports to China up 76 percent in first third quarters Pakistani Consul General in Shanghai, Hussain Haider has said that 2021 has been an excellent year for Pakistan-China bilateral trade. Driven by China-Pakistan Free Trade Agreement Phase, Pakistan exports to China have increased more than 76% year-on-year in the first three quarters despite the pandemic. “We believe that by the end of this year, our exports to China will cross US$3 billion and that will be one of our highest-ever exports to China,” he elaborated. Expressing pleasure over Pakistani businesses’ expansion in the Chinese market via the CIIE, he said that China is Pakistan’s largest trading partner. He said that it’s always our priority to take effective participation in the CIIE. This is a very good opportunity for Pakistani companies to further benefit from the enormous Chinese market as well as the liberal import policy of the Chinese government. “We would like to thank the Chinese government for making excellent arrangements. It was a very successful event,” he said. Hussain Haider said that at this year’s CIIE, Pakistani textiles including carpets, handicrafts like Himalaya salt lamps, jewellery and agricultural products, etc. were in display online and offline.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - November 2021

Meanwhile, at the expo, information and communication technologies of the emerging sector were highlighted in Pakistan’s national pavilion. All of these depict Pakistan’s potential export growth engine. Looking into the future, Pakistan’s global textile exports are over US$13 billion. Asif Inam, Chairman We see large APTMA potential in the Chinese market for more value-added textile products like home textiles, garments for ladies, children and men,” Hussain Haider said. Besides, value-added leather products, agriculture products including rice, mangoes and citrus, etc. also look to further grow in the Chinese market in the days to come. And there’s lot of potential of Pak-China cooperation in the sectors of information and communication technology, as well as tourism after the pandemic ends,” he added. Benefitted from the FTA Phase, now increasingly more Pakistani enterprises are trying to enhance their presence in China. Hussain Haider made suggestions as to how Pakistani companies could better benefit from the largest consumer market in the world.

Textile exports hit US$ 6.04 billion in July-Oct 2021 Pakistan's textile exports surged to an all-time high of US$6.04 billion in the first four months (July-October) of this fiscal year led by value-added sector. The country’s textile exports stood at US$4.76 billion in July-October period of last fiscal year, as per the figures of Pakistan Bureau of Statistics (PBS) and All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA). According to data, export of textile products registered 25.6 percent growth in October in fiscal year 2021-22 compared to the corresponding month of last fiscal year, whereas export of textile goods posted a growth of almost nine percent against US$1.49 billion export in preceding month of September of current financial year. ATPMA, the largest representative body of textile mills in the country, attributed the phenomenal growth in the export of textile goods to subsidised energy tariff, which provided a big relief to the textile sector on account of cost. “The concessions on energy tariff helped textile sector post high growth in exports”, Asif Inam, Chairman APTMA (South Zone). Asif also counted host of other reasons contributing to the growth of textile sector and said that demand increased after Covid-19 related

restrictions lifted in the world. He said Pakistan’s textile sector had capitalised the increased demand of textile products. He pointed out that a big chunk of textile products found its way in USA and European markets where Pakistani textile goods had been consumed in large quantities in the recent months. He said all-textile categories especially value-added sector has posted high growth in exports except yarn as textile sector had largely shifted focus towards end products for export purposes. Inam said huge investment came in textile sector recently, which was unmatchable in the last twenty years. He disclosed that textile machinery worth US$ 4 billion had been imported for expansion in the sector and another US$ 4 billion would be invested in the form of purchase of land, construction and other equipments in the sector. “In terms of Pakistani rupee, this investment comes to Rs1,200 billion in textile sector,” Inam said. He said strong check on smuggling of textile products had also helped the sector as currently it was producing more goods for the local consumption and it was on the higher side. APMTA South Zone Chief said he was anticipating more growth in the months ahead on the back of increasing demand of textile goods in the markets of Pakistani products, which would benefit the local textile industry and country in terms of exports.

Rising exports set to spur new investment in textiles With textile exports, especially value-added, marking a significant growth in first four months of this fiscal year, industry officials has said a wave of new investment in the sector was on cards. Officials said the sector invested US$3 to 3.5 billion on modernisation and expansion in the last few years and the investment is likely to match US$ 5 billion, witnessed during Musharraf era when the sector was undergoing major modernisation, balancing and replacement (BMR). “The figures can be matched in next six to eight months provided the government provides the sector level-playing field”, Zubair Motiwala, a leading textile industrialist told the media. Exports of various categories of value-added textile goods went up substantially in July-October period of this financial year compared to the corresponding period of previous year, as per latest figures released by Ministry of Commerce. Exports of men’s garments jumped by a massive 32 percent to US$1.584 billion in the months under review compared to US$1.201 billion in the same period last year. Home textile exports grew 22 percent to US$1.575 billion in July-October of 2021-22 against US$1.294 billion in the same months a year ago. Exports of cotton fabric increased 20 percent to US$745 million in first four

News & Views

months of current fiscal compared to US$622 million in the same months of last fiscal. Likewise, exports of jerseys and cardigans soared 60 percent and women’s garments increased 20 percent in the period under review compared to same months during the last fiscal. He pointed out that export figures of value-added textile goods would have been much bigger if the shipping charges had not been raised massively in recent times. “Textile sector only wants evenplaying field from the government in the form of continuous supply of gas to the sector as disruption will pose serious threat to the sector, which is presently buoyant by registering the much-needed growth for the country.” He said more investment in the import of machinery for textile sector expansion and modernisation would boost sector’s prospects in terms of high growth in exports. “We believe that US$ 5 billion investment in Musharraf era would be matched in next six to eight months as the sector has invested US$5 billion so far,” Motiwala hoped.

PHMA seeks subsidised gas Pakistan Hosiery Manufacturers and Exporters Association (PHMA) called on the government to take back its decision to remove gas subsidy for the export-

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - November 2021

oriented sector, and urged to continue supplying subsidised gas at Rs 6.5/unit. PHMA Central Chairman Shahzad Azam Khan appealed the government to fulfil its commitment of continuing electricity and gas subsidy for exportoriented sectors to maintain the momentum of growth in exports during fiscal year 2021-22. He said the government, in August this year, had approved Rs 68 billion for extension of concessional rates of electricity and gas, which should now be utilised for sustained increase in exports by providing energy at regionally competitive rates. Khan observed that by showing comparatively better performance, the value-added textile category has proved that it has been the main driver of growth in the country's overall exports.

He said the value-added sector achieved growth because of preferential access to the 28-nation European Union under the GSP Plus scheme, which could be enhanced further with government support. He said Pakistan direly needed to establish an aggressive marketing plan for garment export to get maximum benefits of GSP-Plus status.

PHMEA welcomes Dawood's decision of reducing yarn import duty Pakistan Hosiery Manufacturers and Exporters Association (PHMA)'s Zonal Chairman, Mian Kashif Zia welcomed the decision of Advisor to the Prime Minister on Commerce, Textiles and Investment Abdul Razak Dawood to reduce the duty

News & Views on yarn import in recent meeting for value added textile Sector. He said that this would not only reduce the price of yarn but also help in controlling the availability of yarn as well as speculation. He said that at present the prices of yarn are out of control, which is not only affecting our export orders but also creating a volatile situation in the market. He lauded the Prime Minister of Pakistan Imran Khan and Advisor to the Prime Minister on Commerce, Textiles and Investment Abdul Razak Dawood and said that they have always tried to solve the problems of value added textiles on priority basis. He hoped that a notification on reduction of duty on yarn import would be issued soon.

Textile exports in jeopardy as cotton goes north Surging cotton rates in local and global markets are feared to hit Pakistan’s textile exports hard as a huge increase in cost of production would drastically compromise their competitiveness,

industry officials said recently. Spike in the cotton prices comes at a time when textile exports are on an upward trajectory, while the largest exporting sector struggles with high cost of energy, shortage of gas, rising shipping charges, etc. Pakistan’s textile exports in the first quarter of this fiscal year rose 27 percent to US$4.420 billion compared to US$3.469 billion in the same period of the previous year. Cotton rates surged to Rs16,000/maund (37.2kg) in Sindh, the highest in the season, whereas they are also witnessing a rising trend in Punjab and Balochistan, according to cotton arrival reports. Because of the high cost of cotton, the textile sector has started pondering over how to deal with the situation. The textile millers in Faisalabad region recently huddled up to find a solution to maintain the growth momentum in textile exports. According to cotton brokers, high prices of cotton are putting textile mills

into tight financial spot as they are compelled to buy cotton on credit, creating debt. On the other side, prices have also gone up in world market and this hike has become more pronounced for Pakistani importers due to a massive depreciation of rupee against dollar in the last several months. Pakistan is more or less bound to import the natural fibre to meet textile industry demands as local production is not sufficient to feed the industry. Pakistan registered the lowest cotton production in the last season when it fell to its lowest level in 30 years to 5.5 million cotton bales. The government has set a target of over eight million bales this year. Brokers believe that production numbers would be higher than the last year; however, it might fall short of target. For the current fiscal year, the government has set a target of US$ 20 billion for textile goods exports, which stood at US$15.5 billion in the last fiscal year.

BANGLADESH BGMEA urges Bangladesh govt to intensify efforts to attract FDI24 Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) has urged the government to intensify its efforts in attracting more FDI in potential sectors as Bangladesh needs more investments in the backward linkage textile sector, particularly woven. It added that areas like manmade fibre-based yarns and fabrics and functional fabrics like polyester, viscose, spandex etc have a high potential for investment.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - November 2021

BGMEA representatives and Salman F Rahman MP, private industry and investment advisor to the Prime Minister, recently had a meeting to discuss the present business situation, challenges being faced by the RMG industry in Bangladesh and possible course of actions to deal with the challenges, the association said in a press note. Faruque Hassan, BGMEA president, stressed on the importance of improving ease of doing business, especially addressing the bottlenecks, reducing time, process and cost in all criteria of doing business to attract more foreign investment in the sectors. BGMEA also expressed concerns over the recent surge in COVID-19 cases in

some European countries as the EU is the largest export market for Bangladesh’s RMG. The BGMEA delegation expressed their hope that the government would continue its support to the RMG industry to help the sector to face possible challenges in the coming days.

RMG industry to play pivotal in role next phase of Bangladesh’s development: BGMEA President The RMG industry is not only making contribution to the socio-economic development of Bangladesh, but also bringing glory for the nation, said

Around the World Faruque Hassan, President of BGMEA. “The apparel industry is carrying the “Made in Bangladesh” trade mark across the world and we are all proud of it. The industry belongs to all people of this country — development of the sector means development of Bangladesh and betterment of its people,” he said. “The next phase of Bangladesh’s economic growth will hugely depend on the industrial sector where the apparel industry would play the pivotal role. So it’s the responsibility of all people to protect the industry for the greater interests of our country,” he said. Faruque Hassan came up with the observations while speaking at an event titled “Sustainability of the Apparel Industry of Bangladesh: Policies, Scopes and Constraints” organized by Solidaridad Network Asia and ESTex Foundation at a hotel in Dhaka on November 25. The program aims to provide a platform to policy makers and sectoral stakeholders for highlighting the policy gaps and needs and constraints, exploring new opportunities and initiating

pathways for implementing solutions to the environmental, social, and economic issues to achieve sustainability of the apparel industry of Bangladesh. In his address BGMEA President Faruque Hassan called on brands and retailers to be rational in terms of pricing to make the supply chain resilient and sustainable. “There is a sharp disconnect between sustainability and pricing mechanisms.

CHINA Chinese textile firms raked in US$ 26.80 bn profits in JanSept 2021 The textile industry of China grew steadily during the first three quarters of this year (January to September 2021)

Around the World with textile firms collectively raking in profits worth 171.1 billion yuan (approximately US$ 26.80 billion), a 31.7 per cent increase year-on-year (YoY), according to the Ministry of Industry and Information Technology (MIIT). The collective value of textile companies with an annual operating revenue of 20 million yuan (approximately US$ 3.13 million) or more went up by 6.3 per cent compared to 2020. The combined operating revenue reached 3.67 trillion yuan, up 15.6 per cent compared to the first three quarters of 2020, as per MIIT. Online clothing sales in China also grew by 15.6 per cent YoY between January and September. Additionally, China’s apparel exports went up by 5.6 per cent YoY to reach US$227.6 billion during the same period.

GERMANY Germany machinery exports INDIA converging towards pre-crisis Indian ministry approves pilot level projects for geotextiles Exports of machinery from Germany recorded high growth in the third quarter skilling 2021, rising by 8.8 percent year-on-year to 44.6 billion euros, as reported by the Federal Statistical Office based on provisional figures. In the first quarter, exports were up 0.9 percent. In the second quarter they were 24.5 percent above the previous year’s level. However, it should be noted that machinery exports fell by 21.1 percent in the second quarter of 2020 – the peak of the Corona pandemic. Overall machinery exports in the first three quarters of this year increased by 10.8 percent year-onyear to Euro 133.2 billion. In contrast, machinery exports declined by 10.1 percent in 2020. “Mechanical engineering is once again benefiting from its strong presence abroad. The pre-crisis level of machinery exports from 2019 is close at hand thanks to good demand from foreign customers. But the widespread material and logistics bottlenecks put a burden on export performance,” says VDMA chief economist Dr. Ralph Wiechers.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - November 2021

The pilot project on skilling of design/commissioning technical personnel associated with application of geotextiles in infrastructure projects (roads, highways, railways, water resources) has been approved by the Indian ministry of textiles. It will be conducted concurrently by Indian Institute of Sciences Bangalore, Indian Institute of Technology (IIT) Madras; and IIT Roorkee. The coordinating faculty of the respective fields of engineering will look after the implementation of the special courses in consultation with the other concerned centres/offices of the respective institute. Ministry will coordinate, for all matters related to conducting these courses, with prof G I Sivakumar Babu, IISc, Bangalore; prof Rajagopal Karpurapu, IIT, Madras; and prof Satyendra Mittal, IIT Roorkee, the ministry of textiles said in a media release. A batch will consist of minimum 75 to maximum 100 candidates. During the pilot phase, 2 batches are scheduled per

institute. Further, continuation of the special skill development course will be subjected to a review by the Mission Directorate of National Technical Textiles Mission (NTTM) or the ministry of textiles. The institutes will conduct these courses on no-profit/no-loss basis. The Institutes will advertise/ publicise the courses and invite application from willing and eligible candidates (who are Indian citizens with relevant educational qualifications and adequate experience related to the field). The Institute will charge 1,000 per candidate as a token fee. Once batch(es) with minimum 75 candidates are formed, the ministry will provide full amount or 4.50 lakh per batch as an advance to the respective Institute. On completion of the batch/course, the institute will furnish a Statement of Expenditure/UC to the ministry and surplus grant, if any, will be returned to the government. On its part, ministry of textiles will coordinate with other concerned Central government departments/ state governments for mobilising the trainees. Respective institutes have been advised to utilise their networks (including social media platforms/alumni network) for wider participation of suitable candidates.

Around the World ITALY Italian machinery sector buoyed by healthy order intake Italy's textile machinery sector has welcomed the latest statistics from ACIMIT, which show that the index of orders intake for the industry was up by 66 per cent for the period from July to September 2021 compared to the same period in 2020. The latest figures from the machinery association show that the value of the index stood at 119.8 points (basis 2015=100). This growth has been seen on both the Italian and foreign markets, with an increase in domestic orders of 130 per cent compared to the same period in 2020, and up 54 per cent for foreign orders. However, ACIMIT President Alessandro Zucchi, also noted that the index of orders intake showed a -17 per cent drop when compared to the previous quarter this year, due mainly to the summer break and a demand for machinery that has stabilized over the last few months. “Overall, the numbers for new orders remain positive, in spite of a slight decline compared to the months prior to the summer period," Zucchi said. "This proves that Italian companies have been capable of responding quickly to new market conditions, as has often happened in other historical periods. The ability to adapt, coupled with a remarkable flexibility, are part of our DNA as Italian businesses, not just in our specific sector.” This positive moment for Italy’s textile machinery sector is expected to continue through to the year’s end, as ACIMIT’s analysis notes. Indeed, Italian machinery manufacturers are forecasting an increase in the orders intake for the last quarter of

the year, both abroad and domestically. "The resumption in trade show attendance we’ve witnessed has improved the climate of confidence among companies," Zucchi added. "However, we need to make the most of this moment, since the difficulties are not yet entirely behind us. In particular, we must continue on the path of digitalization and sustainability.”

Positive third quarter for Italian textile machinery The index of orders intake for Italian textile machines, as compiled by ACIMIT, the Italian textile machinery producers’ association, rose by 66% for the period from July to September 2021 compared to the same period in 2020. The value of the index stood at 119.8 points (basis 2015=100). The growth concerns both the Italian and foreign markets, with an However, the index of orders intake shows a 17% drop when compared to the previous quarter this year, due mainly to the summer break and a demand for machinery that has stabilized over the last few months.

ACIMIT President Alessandro Zucchi comments: “Overall, the numbers for new orders remain positive, in spite of a slight decline compared to the months prior to the summer period. This proves that Italian companies have been capable of responding quickly to new market conditions, as has often happened in other historical periods. The ability to adapt, coupled with a remarkable flexibility, are part of our DNA as Italian businesses, not just in our specific sector”. This positive moment for Italy’s textile machinery sector is expected to continue through to the year’s end, as ACIMIT’s analysis notes. Italian machinery manufacturers are forecasting an increase in the orders intake for the last quarter of the year, both abroad and domestically. “The resumption in trade show attendance we’ve witnessed has improved the climate of confidence among companies. However, we need to make the most of this moment, since the difficulties are not yet entirely behind us. In particular, we must continue on the path of digitalisation and sustainability,” ACIMIT’s President concludes.

Around the World PHILIPPINE Philippine Textile Research Institute develops ecofriendly insoles The Philippine Textile Research Institute of the Department of Science and Technology (DOST-PTRI) has developed an environment-friendly shoes insoles, through the 'Diversification of Philippine Textiles through Nonwoven Innovations R&D Programme' or the Nonwoven Innovations Programme, with natural textile fibre-based nonwovens and knitted and woven fabrics. Prototypes have already been developed using pineapple leaf fibre needle punched nonwovens, with combination of two or more layers: the upper lining, the lignocellulosic-based nonwoven textile and the optional backing support. The middle nonwoven layer acts as the cushioning component of the shoe insole that provides comfort as well as protection to the feet of the wearer. The Intellectual Property (IP) for the shoe insole has already been filed and discloses a desired embodiment that is made from 100 per cent natural textile fibres, from the linings to the nonwoven, DOST said in a press release. Because of this new technology, a partnership with Creative Definitions was also forged to use the developed nonwovens in the insoles of their own line of footwear, thus supporting the objective to bridge the gap between research and industry. To put more value to the product using SmarTex technologies, DOST-PTRI is currently in the process of improving the technology with added features like odour control and antimicrobial finishing. Despite being in its initial stages, it is already showing potential as a competitive option in the footwear industry. Meanwhile, the Nonwoven Innovations Programme of DOST-PTRI aims to utilise local natural textile fibres from different sources such as pineapple leaf, abaca, bamboo, and banana in the production of nonwoven textiles for various industrial use for automotive, filtration, and alternative leather applications, the release added.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - November 2021

SRI LANKA Sri Lanka's textile & garment exports on path to cross US$ 5 billion this year After registering a steep fall of 21 per cent year-on-year to US$ 4.423 billion last year, textile and garment exports from Sri Lanka are likely to cross US$ 5billion mark in 2021, as the island nation has already earned US$ 3.893 billion until September, growing at 18.5 per cent year-on-year, according to the statistics released by the Central Bank of Sri Lanka. Exports of garments were up 21.4 per cent year-on-year to US$ 3.544 billion during the first three quarters of this year, while textile exports increased by 40.3 per cent and fetched US$ 254.8 million, the central bank said in its report ‘External Sector Performance – September 2021’. Exports of other made-up textile articles fetched US$ 94.2 million, registering a huge decline of 49.2 per cent year-on-year. Textiles and garments exports accounted for 56.43 per cent of all industrial exports from Sri Lanka during the nine-month period, the report showed. Imports of textiles and textile articles too rose by 32.4 per cent to US$ 2.206 billion, while clothing and accessories imports were up marginally by 2.4 per cent to US$ 156.8 million during JanuarySeptember 2021. In September 2021, Sri Lanka’s earnings from textiles and garment exports increased 5.7 per cent to US$ 458.5 million, compared to exports of US$ 433.7 million in the same month of 2020. Expenditure on textiles and textile articles shot up by 25.8 per cent year-onyear to US$ 262.2 million, while clothing and accessories imports were up 17.4 per

cent to US$18.1 million. In 2020, Sri Lanka's clothing exports fetched US$3.939 billion, a fall of 24.3 per cent over US$ 5.205 billion in 2019. On the other hand, imports of textiles and textile articles decreased by 19.7 per cent to US$ 2.335 billion.

VIETNAM Vietnam's import-export revenue projected to hit US$ 640-US$ 645 bn in 2021 Vietnam’s ministry of industry and trade (MoIT) recently forecast that the total import-export revenue this year may reach US$640-US$ 645 billion, with a slight trade deficit. The ministry attributed that to the efforts of the business community in overcoming pandemicinduced difficulties to maintain production, especially those in the garment, textile and leather sectors. By the end of the year, domestic businesses can regain a growth rate like it was before the pandemic broke out, according to the ministry. Sectors that are traditionally strong in export like telephone, electronics, machinery and accessories are also likely to post export growth of 15-25 percent this year, it said. MoIT said that after three years of implementing the Comprehensive and Progressive Agreement for Trans-Pacific Partnership (CPTPP) and a year of the European Union-Vietnam Free Trade Agreement (EVFTA), the positive impact of those deals on the country’s exports has shown clearly, especially in markets without any FTA with Vietnam before, a news agency reported. For example, exports to Canada, Mexico and Peru have been increasing at 25-30 per cent per year. 

Corporate News

James Heal presents new AirPro instrument for air permeability testing James Heal has announced the launch of the new AirPro air permeability tester. The latest addition to the manufacturer’s ‘Performance Testing’ range, claims to be an ‘evolution’ and ‘innovative alternative’ to air permeability testers currently on the market. Manufacturer of precision textile testing instruments, James Heal, has developed an innovative solution to air permeability testing, the AirPro. Used to measure the resistance of the flow of air through products including performance apparel, medical textiles, PPE, infant products such as bedding, nonwovens, geotextiles and more. “Air permeability has always been a popular area of testing”, explains James Heal’s Head of Technical, Peter Goodwin. “It’s important for a variety of reasons in performance testing, for the indication of

thermal loss which can impact wearer comfort and safety, particularly in garments designed to be windproof, medical textiles such as face masks and wound dressings, and infant bedding - all where breathability is a key measure of performance.” The testing instrument manufacturer explains that their new AirPro machine is a natural addition to their growing performance testing range, a suite of instruments designed specifically for testing technical and performance fabrics. A key feature of the instrument is the easy to use TestWise software, a proprietary system developed in-house by James Heal, says Goodwin. “TestWise makes testing extremely simple, and instrument usability is a key part of our product development process with all of our products.”

AirPro - Quick Change Heads.

With TestWise software, operators can select from a suite of pre-loaded standards, and the software recommends which test heads are required for testing to each standard. There are a number of clever features, from the software automatically warning the operator of any errors, such as the wrong test heads; to the ability to create your own standards, which makes the instrument useful as a research and development tool in addition to day-to-day quality assurance testing.

AirPro - TestWise Software.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - November 2021

“Air permeability is an important part of the R&D process,” explains Goodwin. “Outside of traditional apparel textiles, a variety of different sectors and applications are looking to innovate with new, novel materials and test marketing claims particularly applicable to geotextiles and performance sports equipment such as boat sails and tents.

Corporate News procedure, something which is commonly seen in alternative air permeability testers. This takes up valuable testing time. James Heal’s focus is to make testing simple, fast and intuitive; for greater throughput, and accurate, consistent and reliable results”, concludes Goodwin.

Notes to editors:

AirPro instrument.

The key features benefits of AirPro include:

Established in 1872, James Heal is an international engineering company renowned worldwide for delivering premium quality, reliable and innovative materials testing solutions. From its core manufacturing and commercial headquarters in the United Kingdom, the company specialises in the design and production of Testing Instruments and Test Materials (consumables), supported by industry-leading service and support. At the core of the company is the seamless interaction between high

quality, precision, reproducibility and reliability combined with innovation, imagination and industry-leading technical expertise. This combination has resulted in James Heal becoming one of the most trusted and valued materials testing companies in the world. James Heal designs its Testing Instruments with the users in mind, offering the most user-intuitive and innovative solutions in textile testing. The company also works closely with some of the biggest names in the rubber, paper, wood, plastics and glass industries to develop first-rate materials testing solutions. James Heal is part of the PPT Group of companies. The PPT Group is a family of brands, expert in the design and production of solutions for testing a range of physical properties including compression, light fastness, moisture, dry rate, water repellency, abrasion, flammability, tensile and torque properties.



Start testing straight away with easyto-use TestWise software: preloaded standards and a ‘quick test’ function, full flexibility to create new standards, with a comprehensive reporting and export option.  Large illuminated test bed: accommodates large samples and suitable for testing a range of materials and finished garments.  Supplied with a range of different ‘quick change’ test heads depending on application and standard, ranging from 5 cm2 to 100 cm2, with many sizes in between.  Useful integrated storage drawer to keep the test area organised and tidy.  Wheel-based for easy movement around the laboratory or factory floor.  Quality components that are easy and cost-effective to maintain and replace. “There are indeed alternative and well-established instruments on the market which offer the ability to conduct standards-based air permeability tests. What differentiates James Heal’s AirPro is that there is no requirement for compressed air. This makes changing of test heads efficient, as there is no requirement to disconnect the air supply or change air pressure during the testing

AirPro With Operator.

Corporate News

Caroline Lange (left) and Georgina Schrötgens (right), Board of Directors, Trützschler Foundation.

Trützschler establishes the Foundation for Children and Youth The Mönchengladbach-based family-owned Trützschler company has created a charitable foundation: the Trützschler Foundation. The Foundation’s main focus is on supporting children and young people with learning and education, sport and exercise, and science and research.

“As part of the fifth Trützschler generation, we have a social responsibility that we would like to express in a special way through the Trützschler Foundation,” explains Caroline Lange, who, together with Georgina Schrötgens, is a member of the Foundation’s Board of Directors. “We see the foundation as a supporter and companion and want to give something back by offering young adults equal opportunities for education and support for personal, free development,” adds Georgina Schrötgens.

projects for children and youths in the Mönchengladbach area. In the long-term, the Foundation also wants to get involved beyond the limits of Mönchengladbach. At its production sites in USA, Brazil, India and China, Trützschler has been supporting charitable projects for many years, such as the German Language and Culture Foundation in North Carolina or the Trützschler Training Academy in India.

Many exciting projects are already in the planning stage. The initial focus is on supporting local educational and sports

Social commitment and the dedication to sound training opportunities for youths and young adults have a long

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - November 2021

Social commitment as part of the Trützscahler DNA

tradition at Trützschler: Ever since the company was founded more than 130 years ago, Trützschler has promoted civic engagement. At the parent plant in Mönchengladbach, young people have been accompanied on their way to their first vocational qualification for more than 70 years. The special value orientation and partnership for which the company stands are also reflected in the personal motivation of those involved: “I consider voluntary work as an absolute enrichment. Making an active contribution to the lives of many children and young people also expresses my personal gratitude,” says Caroline Lange. 

The LYCRA Company launches online customer portal, driving digital transformation for the apparel industry The LYCRA ONE™ portal includes the latest innovations, fabric library, knowledge center, certification services, and merchandising assets, allowing mills and retailers to collaborate digitally The LYCRA Company, a global leader in developing innovative solutions for the apparel and personal care industries, today announced the launch of their LYCRA ONE™ Online Network Exchange. The new online customer portal empowers brands, retailers, and garment makers to connect to a global network of mills all in one convenient platform focused around the science of comfort, fit and performance. Prior to the pandemic, there was already a need in the marketplace for a digital experience allowing brands and retailers to connect with mills and manufacturers in a virtual capacity without losing the inherent advantages of an in-person connection. Through the LYCRA ONE™ portal, users can source innovative fiber solutions using the digital fabric library. Users can also directly connect with mills to begin or expand on business relationships, learn about capabilities, and view product catalogs. “The LYCRA Company has a rich legacy of innovation, and we must embrace digital transformation. The launch of the LYCRA ONE™ portal leverages our connectivity across the apparel and personal care value chains and offers a one-stop seamless solution to rapidly move our customers’ ideas from concept to launch,” said CEO of The LYCRA Company, Julien Born. LYCRA ONE™ features a knowledge center where users can access exclusive content such as webinars, white papers,

and videos covering new fiber technologies, industry trends, marketing, sustainability, and more. These resources help educate users on maximizing the value of The LYCRA Company and its innovative solutions to deliver products that can meet their consumers’ needs and provide inspiration for new ideas. Customers will discover innovative marketing and merchandising solutions through the LYCRA ONE™ portal, including brand assets and garment hang tags. Additionally, requests can be submitted for trademark license agreements and fiber certifications that help to reinforce the quality of products backed by the power of the LYCRA® brand. To learn more and register for the LYCRA ONE™ portal, visit one.lycra.com and select the signup button, or contact info@itextiles.com.pk to know more about the LYCRA ONE® portal.

About The LYCRA Company The LYCRA Company innovates and produces fiber and technology solutions for the apparel and personal care industries. Headquartered in Wilmington, Delaware, The LYCRA Company is recognized worldwide for its innovative products, technical expertise, sustainable solutions, and unmatched marketing support. The LYCRA Company owns leading consumer and trade brands: LYCRA®, LYCRA HyFit®, LYCRA® T400®,

COOLMAX®, THERMOLITE®, ELASPAN®, SUPPLEX®, and TACTEL®. The LYCRA Company’s legacy stretches back to 1958 with the invention of the original spandex yarn, LYCRA® fiber. Today, The LYCRA Company focuses on adding value to its customers’ products by developing unique innovations designed to meet the consumer’s need for comfort and lasting performance. For more information, visit www.thelycracompany.com.

About iTextiles® iTextiles® is the sales representative of The LYCRA Company in Pakistan. It is a multi-disciplinary textile solutions company that creates, manages and innovates the entire value chain in performance textiles. Started in 2006 as a trading concern for fibers, the company has rapidly evolved to become a leading value chain manager in the region, supplying raw material to and representing some of the biggest international companies and their brands.

LYCRA® and LYCRA ONE™ are trademarks of The LYCRA Company. 

Corporate News

Archroma awarded Ecovadis Platinum Medal CSR performance, joining top 1% best rated companies Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, announced that it has been awarded the EcoVadis “Platinum” rating in corporate social responsibility (CSR), placing the company within the top 1% of the best rated companies in its industry. Archroma was evaluated by EcoVadis, an organization specialized in assessing the CSR performance of companies on a global basis. The assessment focuses on 21 criteria which are grouped into 4 themes: Environment, Labor & Human Rights, Ethics, and Sustainable Procurement. EcoVadis assesses more than 75,000 companies in more than 160 countries and 200 industries.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - November 2021

Participating in the assessment for the fourth consecutive year, Archroma had set itself the target to reach the EcoVadis “Platinum” rating. Archroma has built a strong reputation as a global leader in developing innovations and systems that help minimize resources, increase productivity and create value for its customers. The company refers to this commitment as “The Archroma Way to a Sustainable World: Safe, efficient, enhanced, it’s our nature”. "Sustainability is a process”, comments Heike van de Kerkhof, CEO at Archroma. “We started our journey with the EcoVadis assessments only 4 years ago. Our progress all the way to the Platinum rating is testament to our

Heike van de Kerkhof, CEO at Archroma.

continuous efforts and hard work to improve our societal, environmental and economic performance, and that of our customers!"

Personalia

The new TMAS board members (left to right) Sven Öquist, Jerker Krabbe and Semir Pavlica.

A new dynamic for the TMAS board TMAS – the Swedish Textile Machinery Association – has appointed three new members to its board. Jerker Krabbe of Eton Systems, Semir Paclica of Baldwin Technology and Sven Öquist of Coloreel will contribute a wealth of experience from a wide range of industries to the association. Jerker Krabbe joined Eton Systems - a leader in intelligent overhead conveyor systems - as CEO six months ago, and has more than 25 years of commercial, operational and international experience within several well-known companies such as Electrolux, Husqvarna, Gunnebo and Assa Abloy, and most recently as CEO of Sector Alarm AB. “Eton Systems has implemented a number of growth and innovation strategies in recent years that have contributed to the company’s leading market position,” he says. “After six months, I’m finally getting to grips with the complexity of the textile industry and happy to be contributing my commercial experience to both Eton and the board of TMAS. I want to continue to broaden my knowledge within the textile industry, but also learn and share my experiences with the team.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - November 2021

“The textile machinery industry is moving forward fast on a digitalization journey which I believe will benefit countries like Sweden,” he adds. “There is a growing trend of reshoring manufacturing back to developed countries and therefore a need for further automation. Here I think many members of TMAS can contribute and really take advantage of the change. It will also be increasingly important to have an environmentally positive footprint and I think that is a huge opportunity for us as an association to work together.” Semir Pavlica has a master’s in finance and started his career at the SEB banking group before joining Baldwin Technology five ago. He is now managing the company’s process improvement and performance. “This is an exciting role as Baldwin Technology continues to make inroads with its game changing non-contact spray technology for the textile finishing sector,” he says. “I’m data driven, have an analytical mind-set and an eye for marketing, combined with a drive and an enthusiasm to learn. I’m happy to be contributing to improving the market exposure of all TMAS members and the

targeted customer approach taken by the association.” Sven Öquist joined Coloreel as Vice President of Sales in April this year. He has an international background with previous positions as Managing Director/CEO for a number of Swedish companies. He has also led the global sales team at Polestar, the electrified brand of Volvo Cars. “We grew the company from being a small privately-owned brand to becoming Volvo Cars third best selling accessory globally,” he says. “I think I can contribute a lot of what I learned on that journey to both Coloreel and the TMAS board. My job at Coloreel is to build a global sales team and structure with local presence in several markets as the company continues to generate industry excitement with its instant thread coloring technology for more creative and more sustainable embroideries.” “I’m happy to welcome Jerker, Semir and Sven to the TMAS board,” says TMAS Secretary General Therese PremlerAndersson. “They will bring fresh perspectives and experiences and an altogether new dynamic to the table.”

Personalia

Dr. Suzanne Thoma to not stand for re-election in 2022 Dr. Suzanne Thoma has decided not to stand for re-election at the 2022 Annual General Meeting of shareholders of OC Oerlikon Corporation AG, Pfäffikon.

The Board of Directors of OC Oerlikon Corporation AG, Pfäffikon will inform on the succession plan in due time.

Dr. Suzanne Thoma has informed the Board of Directors that she would like to focus on her activities outside Oerlikon. She has therefore decided not to stand for re-election to the Board of Directors of OC Oerlikon Corporation AG, Pfäffikon at the next Annual General Meeting in 2022. Dr. Suzanne Thoma has been a member of the Board of Directors since 2019.

About Oerlikon

Prof. Dr. Michael Süss, Chairman of the Board of Directors of OC Oerlikon Corporation AG, Pfäffikon says: "On behalf of the Oerlikon Group I would like to thank Dr. Suzanne Thoma for her considerable commitment and contribution to Oerlikon. Oerlikon wishes Dr. Suzanne Thoma all the best for the future."

Oerlikon is a global innovation powerhouse for surface engineering, polymer processing and additive manufacturing. The Group’s solutions and comprehensive services, together with its advanced materials, improve and maximize the performance, function, design and sustainability of its customers’ products and manufacturing processes in key industries. Pioneering technology for decades, everything Oerlikon invents and does is guided by its passion to support customers’ goals and foster a sustainable world. Headquartered in Pfäffikon, Switzerland, the Group operates its business in two Divisions – Surface

Solutions and Polymer Processing Solutions. It has a global footprint of more than 10 600 employees at 179 locations in 37 countries and generated sales of CHF 2.3 billion in 2020.

Christophe Aussenac assumes Fespa presidency Christophe Aussenac has taken charge as FESPA’s 18th President at an assembly of FESPA’s national Associations that took place during FESPA Global Print Expo 2021 in Amsterdam. The Presidential term runs for three years. Founded in 1962, FESPA is a global federation of Associations for the screen printing, digital printing and textile printing community. Christophe replaces outgoing president Christian Duyckaerts, whom he has supported as Vice President since 2017. Christian has been appointed FESPA’s Asia Ambassador and also returns to the general duties of a FESPA Board Member,

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - November 2021

in addition to his active involvement with the Belgian national Association, FESPA Belgium. Christophe Aussenac has been a FESPA Board member since 2014 and also leads FESPA France, the national Association serving the French digital and wide format printing community. He has been a driving force in the establishment of FESPA’s Southern European Congress and is a vocal advocate for improved sustainability in speciality printing. Christophe is a founding director of Lyon-based ATC (Autorise Toute Creativité), which he established with his business partner in 1991. The company employs 60 people and provides a range of interior and outdoor signage, graphics, display and POS services to corporate and agency clients. Christophe Aussenac comments: “Assuming the Presidency during FESPA’s

first live event since 2019 is a proud and emotional moment after such an extraordinary period in our professional and personal lives. As a speciality printer myself, I believe that FESPA has a vital role to play in supporting our global community to continue to evolve, innovate and rise to the challenges and opportunities that face us, in particular the imperative to place more emphasis on environmental responsibility.” He continues: “This is a critical time for our members. The prolonged global pandemic has put multiple pressures on print businesses, and owners are now re-building and re-imagining their future, with a stronger focus than ever on topics like production efficiency, diversification and automation. Looking ahead to 2022, we hope for the successful resumption of all our global FESPA events, and to being able to re-engage with all members of our community in the real world.”

Dyes and Chemicals

Bolger & O’Hearn: Shell-Tech Free, the latest in ultra-durable, fluorinefree water repellence Bolger and O’Hearn is proud to introduce Shell-Tech Free, an advanced, premiumperformance, fluorine-free durable water repellent that provides the same repellency, wash durability and runability as a quality C-6. A versatile DWR that can be used on a wide variety of end products, Shell-Tech Free has also been engineered for sustainability and easy application at the mill. Additional information about this breakthrough technology will be available at IFAI Expo 2021, November 2 to 4, 2021, Booth A1114 in the Advanced Textiles section of the show at Music City Center in Nashville, Tennessee, USA. Fabrics finished with Shell-Tech Free are resistant to water, stains from soda, wine, sports drinks, mud, fruit juices, syrups and are durable up to fifty launderings and several dry cleanings. In many cases, repellency will last the life of a treated article. At the same time, ShellTech Free will not change or interfere with an article’s natural hand, drape, breathability or comfort. Shell-Tech Free is the ideal DWR for a wide variety of end products, including medical wear & PPE, workwear, athleisure apparel, hats, gloves, socks, tarpaulins, boat covers, awnings, tents and more. In addition, Shell-Tech Free is waterbased, highly biodegradable, recyclable, doesn’t contain fluorine, VOC’s (volatile organic compounds) or PFA’s, doesn’t emit dangerous off-gasses and is manufactured using solar energy in a bluesign-accredited facility. “The industry is steadily shifting to more sustainable options for repellents and other finishing solutions,” said Shawn Honeycutt, Sales and Marketing Manager at B&O. “Shell-Tech Free was developed to meet that need and fits the bill for an eco-friendly, high performance water repellent that gives finishers a

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - November 2021

Shell-Tech Free is engineered for sustainability, high performance and trouble-free application at the mill.

drop-in replacement for conventional systems.” At the mill, Shell-Tech Free can be applied at lower finish add-on levels compared to competing fluorine-free repellents. This produces repellent fabrics with significantly reduced mark-off issues. The lower finish add-on also reduces color change and hand stiffening, plus tolerates non-uniform fabric preparation and doesn’t require high tem32peratures for application. Meanwhile, lower temperature curing preserves fabric properties such as color, hand and dimensional stability. It can also be applied successfully over fabrics that have received sub-optimal cleaning. While many fluorine-free DWR products demand scrupulous pre-cleaning before finishing to achieve high repellency, ShellTech Free can tolerate less rigorous cleaning and still perform at a high level. “Shell-Tech Free represents another step by our company to provide the textile industry with products that are both highly effective and kind to the

environment,” Honeycutt added. “Consumers are asking for both and we are committed to helping our customers meet that demand."

Bolger & O’Hearn Since its founding in 1969, Bolger and O’Hearn has been selling uniquely efficient and consistently high-quality chemicals. Its personalized service approach has been the pillar of its success. From its traditional beginnings in the textile industry, B&O has expanded into paper coatings, nonwovens and other non-textile manufactured products, all of which find applications in a wide range of industries. Today its diverse and comprehensive product line totaling over 2,500 products is sold and distributed globally. Committed to a zero-carbon future, B&O currently produces its products using renewable energy. The solar voltaic array on its facilities allow it to displace more than 100,000 pounds of carbon each year. B&O is also a bluesign® System Partner.

Belt and Road Textile Conference 2021 concluded with success Belt The Belt and Road Textile Conference 2021, was held in Huzhou, Zhejiang province on October 15, which saw the participation of government officials from ministerial and local levels, and representatives from the China National Textile and Apparel Council (CNTAC), foreign government agencies and business associations, and industry-leading companies.

Themed on “Sustainable Dual Circulation of Trade and Investment”- the conference aimed to accelerate the integration of domestic and international trade with a focus on increasing domestic demands, assess policy trends for industry growth, and launch insightful guidelines. The Belt and Road Textile Conference 2021 was guided by CNTAC and the Huzhou Municipal People’s Government,

and hosted by the Sub-Council of Textile Industry of China Council for the Promotion of International Trade (CCPIT TEX), China Textile Go Global Union (hereinafter referred to as the Union), and CCPIT Huzhou Committee.

Foresights Evolving challenges and opportunities in a new era Xu Yingxin, Vice Chairman of CNTAC and Chairman of CCPIT TEX, stated in his welcome speech that this year marked the 8th anniversary of the Belt and Road Initiative (BRI). Since its launch in 2013, the initiative has become one of the largest platforms for international cooperation with the most countries involved, bringing huge opportunities and dividends to all countries in the world. As the world is undergoing profound changes unseen in a century, the outbreak of COVID-19 has accelerated changes to the global landscape. In such a complex and volatile era, all countries are bound to share weal and woe. One of the options that can benefit all countries is making committed efforts to pursue high-quality progress in the BRI and strengthen amicable relations and cooperation between China and its

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Conference neighbors to deliver more opportunities and benefits. China’s textile and apparel industry, a steadfast supporter and participant of the BRI, has upheld principles of mutual benefits and win-win cooperation, yielding great achievements. China’s textile and apparel sector has played a leading role in the Belt and Road Initiative with fruitful cooperation along the route. Since 2000, the total foreign direct investments (FDIs) of the sector have exceeded 11 billion USD, of which more than 70% have flowed to countries along the Belt and Road route. Making joint contributions to the BRI has become the consensus of the industry. Xiang Lemin, Deputy Mayor of Huzhou Municipal People’s Government,noted that during the 13th Five-Year Plan period (2016-2020), Huzhou’s GDP grew at an average annual rate of 7.1%, 0.6 percentage points higher than that of the province. The total fiscal revenue and general public budget revenue saw an average annual growth rate of 12.2% and 12% respectively, making the city rank number one in the province. Huzhou has been rated twice as one of the cities with stable industrial growth and remarkable achievements in transformation and upgrading by the General Office of the State Council. Under the guidance of the China National Textile and Apparel Council, the

modern textile industry in Huzhou has taken steps towards high-quality growth. For one thing, as the city speeds up in achieving green and quality growth, it has established a whole supply chain that encompasses all processes from raw materials, weaving to end products. The annual output of the industry exceeds 70 billion RMB, and four textile companies in the city have gone public. For another, the Huzhou government encourages local companies to “go global” by participating in the BRI. From January to July, exports of textile and apparel products to countries along the Belt and Road reached 6.12 billion RMB in Huzhou, a year-on-year increase of 24.7%, accounting for 25.8% of the total exports to the BRI, which demonstrated huge potentials of the emerging city. Cao Xuejun, a senior official from the Department of Consumer Goods of the Ministry of Industry and Information Technology (MIIT), pointed out that as China has achieved moderate prosperity, the 14th Five-Year Plan period (20212025) is crucial for China to embark on a new journey of modernization. During this new journey, the textile industry should pursue high-quality growth for the good of the public, further the supplyside structural reforms, and build a more reliable and innovative supply chain with greater flexibility and value added, thus boosting China’s competitiveness in textile. High-quality industry growth

requires further international cooperation. The textile industry in China should focus on enhancing the competitiveness of domestic companies, strengthen the awareness of risk prevention and control, and build a supply chain that features mutual benefits and win-win cooperation, so as to explore diversified markets. This is in line with the requirements of the BRI in pursuing high-quality growth, and remains a necessity for building China into a textile giant. The Department of Consumer Goods of MIIT will promote policy coordination, support independent innovation and technological transformation, enhance industry upgrading, and create a sound business environment for textile companies to achieve quality growth.

Insights Enhancing industry sustainability Gao Yong, Secretary General of China National Textile and Apparel Council, gave a keynote speech on “A New Era Leading to a Sustainable Dual Circulation of Trade and Investment in Textile Industry”. Mr. Gao observed that the textile industry has witnessed extraordinary outbound investments and cooperation in the past two years despite the heavy blow dealt by the COVID-19, and that the industry has managed to resume work and production despite challenging circumstances. He also analyzed challenges lying ahead that

Conference value products and services and securing a steady economic growth. The business environment is sound, as evidenced by a large number of multinational companies placing their African headquarters in Kenya. Also, the country is a regional transportation and logistics hub owing to its strategic location.

were brought by the pandemic and the new development pattern. He appealed to all the industry actors to work towards a safe, stable and sustainable future for the sector. According to Mr. Gao, outbound direct investments (ODIs) in China’s textile industry reached 950 million USD, a year-on-year increase of 101.3%, accounting for 11.5% of the outbound investments in the country’s manufacturing sector. Sector performance varied though. Outbound direct investments in the textile & apparel sector and clothing accessories sector totaled 80 million USD, which remained the same as last year, accounting for 8.4% of the total of the textile industry. ODIs in the textile sector reached 250 million USD, a yearon-year decrease of 26.5%, accounting for 26.3% of the total. While the chemical fiber manufacturing sector saw a total of 620 million USD outbound direct investments, a year-on-year increase of 1027%, accounting for 65.3% of the total. Hong Kong China, Vietnam and Singapore were main investment destinations. Mr. Gao believed that it is essential that companies evaluate the industry layout when doing business abroad, ensure the safety of the supply chain, and establish a safety early warning system. He highlighted the need to upgrade the industrial base, modernize the supply chain, and enhance high-end manufacturing capabilities. He also noted that peaking CO2 emissions before 2030 and achieving carbon neutrality by 2060, major strategic decisions made by the Party Central Committee, are inherent requirements for high-quality growth and

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harmonious co-existence between mankind and the nature. All industry stakeholders need to build a consensus that industry growth should go in-line with national ecological strategies and do no harm to climate security for humankind, and practicing sustainable development is the responsibility of a textile giant, and an important way to increase industry value.

Experience Exchanges Sustainable cross-border investments in textile under the Belt and Road Initiative In the first session of the Conference, representatives from governments, institutions and enterprises from home and abroad gave speeches on “Sustainable Cross-Border Investments in Textile Under the Belt and Road Initiative,” which presented opportunities for experience exchanges and crossborder cooperation. Dr. Moses Ikiara, Managing Director at Kenya Investment Authority (KenInvest) attended the conference via video link and talked about investment opportunities in Kenya’s fiber, textile and garment sectors. He pointed out that Kenya, a gateway to eastern and central Africa, is endowed with competitive advantages in terms of location that facilitate its engagement with neighboring and global markets. He mentioned several advantages of investing in Kenya. For instance, the country has a hard-working, innovative, and highly skilled labor force, a diversified economy, a free market, and no foreign exchange control. The middle-class keeps growing, driving up demands for high-

He also mentioned that the textile and apparel industry is the core of the national economic agenda and has made significant contributions to exports and job creation in Kenya. As a beneficiary of the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA), Kenya has played a leading role in exporting clothing to the United States. Dr. Ikiara also talked about Kenya’s investments, capital security and investment opportunities in the industry value chain. Mr. A. Sukumaran, Chairman of the Joint Apparel Association Forum (JAAF) in Sri Lanka, shared his insights into trade and investment opportunities of the country’s textile and apparel industry via video link. He began with an introduction to JAAF. According to him, exports of the local textile and apparel industry totaled 5.6 billion USD in 2019, making it the largest export industry in Sri Lanka. More than 42% of the imported fabric comes from China, the biggest supplier for Sri Lanka, with the trade volume totaled 968 million USD. The United States, the European Union, and the United Kingdom are major trading partners for Sri Lanka’s exports. As to investment advantages in Sri Lanka, Mr. Sukumaran mentioned the high ease of doing business, world-class manufacturing facilities/services, a capable and flexible labor force, as well as the preferential market access in the EU and the UK. He observed that looking ahead, the textile and apparel industry in Sri Lanka will strengthen backward integration, and work with more foreign governments to maintain and improve export market access, so as to expand into more markets and bring itself to a new level. Qian Anhua, Chairman and General Manager of Antex (Deqing) Fashion Co., Ltd. shared his experience in overseas operations in his speech “Antex Group’s Overseas Investment Path”, and noted that the implementation of the BRI has great influence worldwide, with the

Conference

textile and apparel industry as a pioneer of the initiative. Antex Group has brought its production and operations to Spain, New York, Vietnam, and Ethiopia, where there is strong growth potential, especially African economies. Mr. Qian elaborated on the global business environment, demographic structures, resource allocation and government support in African markets, and introduced his company’s management team and technologies which help the company to break into new markets. Chen Yan (Karen Chen), CEO of Challenge Fashion (Pakistan) Limited, attended the conference via video link. In her speech, “Challenge’s Experience in Textile Industry Investments in Pakistan”, Ms. Chen introduced the company’s operations in Pakistan and advantages of local export policies, investments in Pakistan made by companies with Chinese investment, and the Pakistani government’s emphasis on Chinese investments. Ms. Chen said that Pakistan has investment advantages in terms of bilateral relations with China, people-topeople exchanges, labor costs, production technologies, business management, tariff treatments and export policies.

Expert Perceptions A mutually reinforcing dual circulation of domestic and foreign markets Zhao Mingxia, Vice President of Industrial Economy Research Institute at

CNTAC, shared her views on challenges and opportunities facing China’s textile and apparel industry in foreign trade and investment patterns in her speech “Demand Trends in the International Textile and Apparel Market.” From the perspective of market demands, she observed that China has witnessed the fastest growth in total consumption in the past years, contributing to 48% of the global economy. This shows that emerging economies and developing countries have driven up demands, while developed economies still play a significant role in fiber consumption.

The report was commissioned to a research team from CCPIT TEX by the Department of African Affairs of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. The report analyzes 54 countries in Africa from a multi-dimensional perspective, establishes a model evaluation system to further study the industry conditions and trade and investment environment in eight key countries with investment and trade potentials (Egypt, Ethiopia, Kenya, Morocco, South Africa, Nigeria, Nigeria, Tanzania and Tunisia), and to discuss cooperation opportunities between China and Africa.

She believed that every endeavor made and experience shared by companies remains the corner stone and a driving force during the journey of advancing the Belt and Road Initiative.

To give better play of the Union as a platform for further cooperation, the Union decided to set up overseas liaison offices in Egypt, Cambodia, Myanmar, Vietnam, and Zambia, which were announced at the Conference. Representatives from the liaison offices extended their congratulations via video.

Special Event Deepening international capacity cooperation The third session of the conference witnessed the issuance of the report, African Countries’ Textile Industry Development Capabilities and the Cooperation Potential between China and Africa in Textile Industry, and an establishment ceremony of the first batch of overseas liaison offices of the China Textile Go Global Union.

The Belt and Road Textile Conference 2021 offered excellent speeches on and insights into the sustainable dual circulation of trade and investment, and served as a platform for industry stakeholders to discuss new paths towards more diverse and higher-quality growth. All players in the textile industry are well-prepared and determined to embark on a new journey towards highquality growth. 

INDEX 20 exhibition concludes successfully INDEX™20 opened its doors to welcome the nonwoven industry back to Geneva with open arms. The exhibition floor was busting with activity and anticipation at the prospect of new business. Over 500 exhibitors from 44 countries were present at the event, premiering their latest innovations. The resounding message was one of a positive outcome and an inspiring vision of the industry’s future across the spectrum of applications sectors. The industry continued to evolve dramatically during the pandemic, and expectations were high as players from across the industry worldwide came

together for the first time since 2017. Exhibitors said their expectations were exceeded, citing the high quality of the visitors present, converging on INDEX™ to conclude new business projects. Over 9,300 visitor entries were recorded on-site, and over a thousand on the virtual platform. As the industry’s first hybrid industry event, many attendees made the most of the interactive INDEX™ virtual platform by arranging video meetings and messaging as well live exchanges. It also meant those unable to attend personally benefitted from the rich Sector Seminar programme and a wide variety Exhibitor Product Presentations.

The presentations will remain available for the next two weeks on the virtual platform: The Innovation Lab opened its doors for the first time, demonstrating the sheer diversity of applications in which nonwovens are employed. The spotlight was on nominees of the INDEX™ Innovation Awards, and the winners presented with their coveted bronze statues designed by Belgian artist Olivier Strebelle. This initiative demonstrates the innovative properties and uses of nonwovens across a wide range of sectors, demonstrating the exciting future of the industry and its suppliers.

Dilo Group reports successful participation at INDEX

DiloGroup would like to thank all customers and interested parties for visiting the Dilo booth in Geneva. Despite the existing worldwide Covid, we were able to welcome a great number of wellknown faces as well as meet new contacts, among them the most important nonwovens producers from across the world in all application areas: hygiene and lightweight nonwovens, technical textiles and needled nonwovens including geotextiles, filter media and

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - November 2021

automotive. The interest in using resource saving plant engineering, energy saving and the processing of natural fibres remains.

lines in our Textile Research Centre. The

Dilo presented its latest developments in industry 4.0. Systematic plant monitoring and analysis of machine data allows simplified operation and more effective production. This smart system was illustrated with the aid of live analysis of the performance, quality and availability parameters of the production

led to a very positive responsive from the

new production systems Hyperpunch Alpha, HyperTex and 3D-Lofter were explained with the aid of videos which many different producers which are interested in running trials at the Dilo Textile Research Centre to further explore these subjects. These highlights and further new developments were the basis for fruitful technical discussions.

Successful trade fair appearance GKD generates great interest in its solutions for the nonwovens industry

GKD Group (GKD) also saw a very well attended stand on all four days of the event. Visitors from the sector displayed particular interest in the new process belt meshes and enhanced, proven products for both nonwoven forming and thermal bonding.

Special topography and short delivery times The new GKD CONDUCTIVE 2215 process belt material – a cross twill weave produced from special polyester filaments for airlay and meltblown nonwoven forming – received positive feedback. Here, carbon-coated filaments ensure secure discharge of unavoidable electrostatic charges which occur during forming processes. The innovative interaction of material choice, filament diameter, weave technology, and air permeability also creates a special texture to the new forming fabric from GKD. It guarantees precise and homogeneous nonwoven deposit, while at the same time delivering good extraction and a minimized risk of fiber entanglement or loss. These characteristics in particular qualify this new fabric type for processing short-fiber, bleached cotton using airlay forming. For the end user, good delivery time secured through end-to-end production at GKD in Germany is another benefit associated with this product. This eliminates the usual uncertainties and long delivery times associated with sourcing from other providers with supply chains in the Far East or overseas and subsequent assembly in Europe. In today’s climate of supply chain woes, customers at the stand displayed a keen

interest for additional information and concrete quotations.

Glass hybrid lightweights with anti-stick coating The glass hybrid fabric belts with antistick coating for sophisticated thermal bonding processes were a second attraction to visitors at the GKD trade fair stand. Numerous existing and prospective customers took the opportunity to learn about the reinforced fabric design of this belt type, which was being presented at INDEX for the first time. Glass hybrid fabric belts from GKD have been successfully established for years in thermal bonding of highly voluminous or heavily compressed products in double-belt ovens. Thanks to their singleply mesh design, employing stainless steel wires in the weft direction and warp wires produced from fiberglass strands, they are energy-efficient lightweights and thereby particularly economical in use.

Field-proven products for drying and filtration The seamless spiral belts produced by GKD also proved to be popular problem solvers at the INDEX exhibition. In sophisticated nonwoven production operations, the PPC belts designed to meet specific customer or application based requirements in terms of air permeability, tracking stability and dimensional stability guarantee drying processes that are gentle on products, despite operating at up to

180°C. The products showcased by GKD at the exhibition were rounded off by metal filter media for central filters and spinning beams, as well as blower screens for polymer filtration. Many users and machine builders took the opportunity to get a close up look at the high-performance product range of the world's leading technical weavers and directly discuss concrete challenges in nonwoven production with the experts from GKD.

GKD Group As a privately owned technical weaver, the GKD - Gebr. Kufferath AG is the world market leader in metal, synthetic and spiral mesh solutions. Three independent business divisions bundle their expertise under one roof: Industrial Mesh (woven metal mesh and filter solutions), Process Belts (belts made of mesh and spirals), Architectural meshes (facades, safety, interior design and transparent media facades / Mediamesh® made of metal fabrics). With its headquarter in Germany and six other facilities in the US, South Africa, China, India and Chile – as well as its branches in France, Spain, Dubai and worldwide representatives, GKD is close to markets anywhere in the world.

New ITMAlive series features textile industry trending topics The second season of ITMAlive, a content series created to support the ITMA exhibition has been launched. Comprising four industry discussions, the ITMAlive series seeks to offer deeper discussions amongst industrialists on trending topics affecting the global textile and garment industry. The discussions are based on ITMA 2023’s overarching theme of Transforming the World of Textiles and its focused areas: advanced materials, automation and digital future, innovative technologies, and sustainability and circularity. Mr. Charles Beauduin, Chairman of ITMA Services – organiser of ITMA 2023, commented, “This new season follows last year’s Forging Ahead amidst a Pandemic series which consisted of interviews with 8 prominent leaders of textile and garment industry companies that had remained agile and resilient during the global coronavirus crisis.” He added, “For this year’s series, we are privileged to have established leaders

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - November 2021

of the textile and garment industry to share in-depth views, create awareness to anticipate future demand and ideas to future-proof their business. Such discussions also create a more vibrant community within our industry.” Each of the ITMAlive panel discussions features three industry members with the session moderated by a key media representative.

The four panels are: Advanced Materials Moderated by Adrian Wilson, Analyst and Writer in technical textiles, nonwovens and composites industries from AWOL Media, the session covers the new technologies for the production of advanced materials and an overview of

the current state of the industry and what can be expected in the near future.

The panel members are: 

Lutz Walter, Secretary General, European Technology Platform for the Future of Textiles and Clothing (ETP)



Jerome Ville, CEO, Fibroline SA



Dr. Thomas Schmidt, Director of Innovation and RSL, Huafeng Textile Group

Fairs and Exhibitions Automation and Digital Future Spotlighting on the digital future, barriers to automation, and challenges to creating a sustainable future for the textile industry, the discussion is moderated by Madelaine Thomas, Content Lead, World Information Textile Network (WTiN).

The panellists include:  Hayato Nishi, Public Relations

Manager, Shima Seiki USA. 

Jonas Larsson, Senior Lecturer, Faculty of Textiles, Engineering and Business, The Swedish School of Textiles.



Uwe Gansfort, Managing Director, Canda International, C&A FIT (Factory for Innovation in Textiles)

Innovative Technologies Focusing on current smart textiles trends and developments, and their impact on textile manufacturing technologies, the discussion is moderated by Claudia van Bonn, Editor-in-Chief, TextileTechnology, dfv media group.

The panel comprises: 

Jean-Marc Senecot, Global Head of Research & Development, Porcher Industries.

 Michael Kieren, Product Manager,

New Textile Technologies, Karl Mayer Stoll R&D.  Prof Yoel Fink, Professor of Materials

Science, Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT).

Sustainability and Circularity As circularity becomes more crucial for the textile industry, the discussion will zoom in on why the textile industry needs to move towards more circular model, the opportunities/challenges around the implementation of these solutions and the way forward. It is moderated by John Mowbray, Environmentalist and Founder, Ecotextile News.

Panellists include:  Karla Magruder, Founder,

Accelerating Circularity.  Petri Alava, CEO, Infinited Fiber.  Baptiste Carriere-Pradal, Chairperson,

The Policy Hub.

The series is available online at www.itma.com with a new panel discussion uploaded every Tuesday till 23 November. The world’s largest textile and garment technology exhibition, ITMA will be held at Fiera Milano Rho, Milan, from 8 to 14 June 2023. It is expected to draw strong response. The last ITMA exhibition, held in Barcelona in 2019, featured exhibits from the entire textile and garment making value-chain, including raw materials and fabrics. It drew a record-breaking participation of 1,717 exhibitors from 45 countries and visitorship of over 105,000 from 136 countries.

About CEMATEX & ITMA The European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers (CEMATEX) comprises national textile machinery

associations from Belgium, France, Germany, Italy, Netherlands, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom. It is the owner of ITMA and ITMA ASIA. Considered the ‘Olympics’ of textile machinery exhibitions, ITMA has a 70-year history of displaying the latest technology for every single work process of textile and garment making. It is held every four years in Europe.

About ITMA Services Headquartered in Brussels with a subsidiary in Singapore, ITMA Services is the appointed organiser of ITMA 2023 and future ITMA branded exhibitions. It is managed by professionals with extensive experience in organising ITMA and other major trade exhibitions around the world. It aims to maintain and expand ITMA’s unique selling proposition and relevance to a global audience.

Fairs and Exhibitions

JIAM 2022 OSAKA set to return in November 2022 JIAM 2022 OSAKA, organised by the Japan Sewing Machinery Manufacturers Association (JASMA), will start accepting exhibitor applications for its next edition to be held from 30 November to 3 December, 2022 in the INTEX OSAKA. JIAM 2022 has decided its exhibition theme as “It all connects at JIAM -the forefront of technology and master craftsmanship” and the show will serve as a global platform for the resolution of issues required in this era of change. The 2022 edition will be providing solutions catered to each and every needs by combining existing high-level skill sets that has survived the drastic market change in the past, with the latest technology that has built on knowledge and the history. JIAM, one of the world's leading sewing equipment trade fairs, is an international trade fair that brings

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - November 2021

together cutting-edge technologies,

JIAM 2022 OSAKA Outline

products, and services from domestic and

Name: JIAM 2022 OSAKA – Japan International Apparel Machinery & Textile Industry Trade Show.

overseas manufacturers. The previous edition of JIAM 2016 welcomed 258 exhibitors from 15 countries and regions as well as 15,257 visitors from 72 countries and regions, mainly from Bangladesh, Pakistan, China, India, Korea, Taiwan, Sri Lanka, and Vietnam.

Organiser: Japan Sewing Machinery Manufactures Association (JASMA). Date: 30 November – 3 December, 2022. Venue: INTEX OSAKA, Hall 4-6.

Fairs and Exhibitions

Exhibitor classification: Planning, design, CAD, cutting, spreading, CAM, sewing equipment, embroidery, printing, laser design processing, finishing, laundry, inspection, testing, home-sewing, supplies, accessories, fiber, sewing products, weaving, knitting, dyeing, textiles, fibers, nonwoven fabrics, automotive and aircraft related, interior, furniture, housing, fashion accessories, household goods, sundry industrial

textiles, IT-information technology, distribution, logistics, facilities, equipment, environment, education and human resources, information services, others Visitor classification: apparel manufacturer, sewing industry, textile manufactures, textile processing industry, machine manufacturer and sales industry, embroidery and printing, manufactures

and dyeing and finishing industry, automotive, aircraft and aerospace industry, cleaning laundry industry, supplies and accessories, fashion, accessories and household goods dealers, interior goods manufacturers, distribution and logistics, retailers, specialty store retailer of private label apparel, trading companies, governmental agency and association and embassy, students, others.

Fairs and Exhibitions

Leading brands of weaving technologies will launch at ITM 2022 The world's leading weaving machine manufacturers are preparing to launch the machines they have developed in the last 3 years at the ITM 2022, which will be held between 14-18 June 2022.

business partners and friends in person. Itema will welcome visitors at ITM 2022 with a product line-up designed to meet and exceed the most demanding customers' needs and to confirm once again its dedication to innovation and the Made in Italy excellence in the weaving sector.”

International Textile Machinery Exhibition ITM 2022, one of the most important events that bring together the world's textile technology leaders, will be held at Istanbul Tuyap Fair and Congress Center on 14-18 June 2022. Weaving Technologies manufacturer companies, which took their place in ITM 2022, the first international textile machinery exhibition to be held after a 3-years break, are also preparing to launch their latest machinery, just like all the participants.

Picanol launches PicConnect, OmniPlus-i Connect and OptiMax-i Connect Picanol Marketing and Communication Manager Erwin Devloo explain the importance they attach to the Turkish market with the following words. “Turkey has a very long tradition in the textile industry and up-to-date production facilities. When we add the textile knowledge they have gained thanks to the ongoing investments in recent years, I think that Turkey has everything it takes to be successful.”

Toyota offers the latest model in Air-Jet technology

Erwin Devloo; Marketing and Communication Manager, Picanol.

Itema presents innovations developed during the last two years Ferdinando De Micheli, Itema Sales Director said; "The ITM 2022 Exhibition will be the first exhibition after the long forced stop caused by the pandemic.

The exhibition is an unmissable opportunity to meet again our customers,

A few years ago, Toyota started a new approach to conquer this important market and has meanwhile achieved the number one position in Air-Jet technology in Turkey. It is Toyota’s strategy to underpin this position even more in the future. Our expectations from ITM are always high as Turkey has become one of our most important markets in the world.”

Ferdinando De Micheli; Sales Director, Itema.

Markus Lichtenstein; Director, Toyota.

That's why ITM 2022 will provide the perfect stage to present all the latest innovations we've been working on over the last two years.

“With the recent evolutions on the world market, the distributors realized the danger of being dependent on China as the only supplier. Therefore they are returning to other textile producing countries such as Pakistan, India, Bangladesh and also Turkey. Especially the geographical proximity of Turkey to Europe is a big advantage. In this perspective, we foresee substantial growth for the Turkish textile industry in the coming years. ITM 2022 will be the first international textile machinery exhibition where the recently introduced novelties will be on display: PicConnect, OmniPlusi Connect and OptiMax-i Connect.”

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - November 2021

Turkey is undeniably one of the major textile markets worldwide, not only concerning its production volume but also in terms of fabric quality, creativity and local know-how, Toyota Operations Director Markus Lichtenstein said: “Turkey has become one of the major markets for textile production in the western hemisphere. As long as the political and economical situation remains stable, we strongly believe that this trend is going to continue for the next few years.

Kingpins24 Amsterdam Program + Fabric Sourcing Component Added to Digital Event Panels and conversations for the fourday event held from October 27-30 revolved around the themes of Inspiration, Innovation, Fiber and Raw Materials and People and Social Responsibility. Expanding beyond education, for the first time during a Kingpins24 event, attendees were able to review collections from denim mills. Daily livestream portion of Kingpins24 Amsterdam ran from 10:00 AM to 1:00 PM CET. In addition, for the first time, denim buyers were able to access Kingpins Exchange, the new online sourcing platform that digitizes denim collections from mills around the globe. “When we started with Kingpins24 in April, our focus was on creating community and holding space for our industry to gather and share ideas,” said Vivian Wang, managing director of Kingpins Show and head of global sales. “Now, with the addition of Kingpins Exchange, we are also able to offer our industry a multi-purpose tool to give denim supply chain members, brands and denim buyers a centralized online sourcing hub. The combination of the two – education and sourcing – brings us a bit closer to our pre-covid Kingpins shows.”

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - November 2021

The Kingpins Exchange platform, launched on October 27, will be available year-round. Buyers will be able to sign up on the Kingpins Show website. For Kingpins24 Amsterdam event, four days of short-form content were organized around the central themes of Inspiration (Oct. 27), Innovation (Oct. 28), Fiber + Raw Materials (Oct. 29) and People + Social Responsibility (Oct. 30). Each day featured three hours of live streamed content, beginning at 10:00 AM CET. Panels and conversations tackled the topics ranging from transparency, blockchain and vertical production to hemp, climate commitments, ethics, legislation and gender equity.

About Kingpins The Kingpins Show is an invitationonly, boutique denim sourcing show featuring a highly-edited selection of vendors that includ e denim and sportswear fabric mills from the U.S., Japan, China, India, Italy, Turkey, Egypt, Pakistan, Thailand, Spain and Mexico; wash houses; full package manufacturers; trim providers; and makers of technology, wash chemicals and business solutions. Kingpins, which launched in 2004, produces biannual shows in New York and Amsterdam, as well as annual shows in Hong Kong and China. In 2020, Kingpins launched KINGPINS24, the first online-only denim supply chain event, in response to the COVID-19 pandemic.

Features

Professional sewing machine.

10th ITMF Corona-Survey Companies see mostly a good business situation and anticipate an even more favourable business in six months’ time. Some differences between regions and segments persist. Between the middle of August and the middle of September 2021, the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) has conducted the 10th ITMF Corona-Survey among companies around the world covering all segments of the textile value chain. The latest results reveal that on average the business situation of the companies is mostly positive. The balance between companies finding themselves in a “good” and a “poor” business situation has reached +10 percentage points (pp) in September 2021 after +5 pp in July and +14pp in May 2021. The business expectations in six months’ time remain on a relative high level. 48% of companies are expecting a

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - November 2021

more favorable and only 13% a less favorable business which results in a positive balance of +35 pp (48% minus 13%).

Looking at regions it can be observed that those regions with a slow vaccination campaign are lagging those with high vaccination rates when it comes to business situation and expectations.

Fairs and Exhibitions

As for the segments, upstream segments have been faring somewhat better since the recovery is under way than the downstream ones, but the latter seem to be catching up. One important reason for this are the supply chain disruptions the industry is faced with. Further down the value chain the disruptions are felt more pronouncedly due to the cumulative effects in delays of

raw and intermediate materials.

around 2.4 months. Differences between

Compared to May and July order intake has increased significantly in September on a global level and companies anticipate a further increase in the next six months.

regions and segments remain.

A look at the order backlog since May 2021 reveals that companies have a stable order backlog on average of

More information about the results of the 10th ITMF Corona-Survey, please contact the ITMF-Secretariat at secretariat@itmf.org.

Features

TMAS members showcase sustainable finishing technologies Members of TMAS – the Swedish textile machinery association – are proving instrumental in pioneering new sustainable processes for the dyeing, finishing and decoration of textiles. The wasteful processes involved in these manufacturing stages are only one component in the development of viable

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - November 2021

circular supply chains for textiles that are now being aggressively established in Sweden. At the recent Conference on Sustainable Finishing of Textiles, held across three separate afternoons on September 30th, October 1st and October 7th, delegates heard that Sweden will

introduce extended producer responsibility (EPR) for waste textiles and clothing at the beginning of 2022, ahead of the adoption of a similar European Union-wide EPR system in 2025. In Sweden, this is already leading to the establishment of advanced digital sorting and recycling infrastructure and

Features from a brand perspective, H&M now leads the field in both addressing circularity from its suppliers and minimizing its own waste.

New fibers Swedish companies are also active in the development of new fibers derived from waste clothing, building on the country’s legacy leadership in pulp and paper production. At the Sustainable Finishing of Textiles Conference, however, it was said that all of the environmental gains made by such sustainable new fibers can potentially be cancelled out in the further processing they are subjected to – and especially in resource-intensive conventional dyeing, finishing and decoration. TMAS members Baldwin Technology and Coloreel have both developed solutions to address this issue.

TexCoat G4

Instant coloring

During the conference, Baldwin’s VP of Global Business Development Rick Stanford explained that his company’s TexCoat G4 non-contact spray technology significantly reduces water, chemistry and energy consumption in the finishing process. It consistently and uniformly sprays chemistry across a fabric surface and applies it only where needed, on one or both sides.

Coloreel’s CEO Mattias Nordin outlined the benefits of his company’s technology which enables the highquality and instant coloring of a textile thread on-demand and can be paired with any existing embroidery machine without modification. This enables unique effects like shades and gradient to be achieved in an embroidery for the first time.

“Customers can expect no bath contamination during the finishing process, as well as minimal downtime during changeovers, which are made easy with recipe management that includes automated chemistry and coverage selection,” he said.

“Our technology is now commercialized and we are scaling up our business globally,” Nordin said. “The foundation of the company was based on the idea that there were millions of varieties of thread reels out there, many of which would become obsolete and turned into waste and that it would be simpler to dye the thread as you use it. That’s what we have achieved.”

The TexCoat G4 also wastes no chemistry during color, fabric or chemistry changeovers, and because only the required chemistry volume is applied to the fabric, wet pick-up levels can be reduced by up to 50% – leading to 50% less water and energy consumption compared to conventional finishing processes. Furthermore, several customers are combining TexCoat Spray and back-coating in series prior to the stenter. This simplifies the production process from two steps to one, delivering both drying savings and productivity increases.

Based on a CMYK ink system, Coloreel’s advanced rapid coloring software and high-speed drive technology allow a single needle to carry out what previously required multiples of them to do – and with much more consistent stitch quality, In addition, existing thread dyeing plants can add a single solid color to a thread, but by instantly coloring a white base thread during production, Coloreel enables complete freedom to create

unique embroideries without any limitations in the use of colors. Color changes along the thread can either be made rapidly from one solid color to another, or gradually, to make smooth transitions or any coloring effect desired. This provides big benefits when it comes to sustainability. There is a significant reduction in wasted inks, while water usage is minimized, and production speeds are increased. The technology allows set-up and lead times to be reduced as well as significant flexibility in production quantities, while eliminating the need for large thread inventories. “Our system is allowing customers to achieve color effects that have never been seen before – and at a new level of efficiency,” Nordin said. “It’s great to see TMAS members playing a pioneering part in what is now shaping up to be a vital rethinking of the textile supply chain here in Scandinavia,” added TMAS Secretary General Therese Premler-Andersson. “All of these ideas are now gaining momentum and likely to be adopted throughout the world. A more circular and sustainable industry will be the result, to the benefit of everyone.” The Conference on Sustainable Finishing of Textiles was organised by International Newsletters, UK. www.technical-textiles.net 

Features

The doyen of silk testing Pioneer of a little-known aspect of Uster Technologies Silk would not normally spring to mind in relation to a company known worldwide for quality management in traditional yarn spinning – but there is a chapter on silk in the Uster story which certainly deserves to be highlighted. It’s about a man who was dedicated to silk and its use as a delicate fiber for the finest yarns and amazing fabrics. This look into an interesting history is presented to honor the life and work of a true silk expert.

moths and butterflies. His knowledge and dedication allowed him to assemble the world’s largest collection of moths of the family known as bagworm moths, today housed in the Entomological Collection of ETH Zurich, Switzerland. He became a recognized expert on this species, and first identified and named over 30 new varieties not previously recorded. He also edited numerous specialist literature, enhancing his name and reputation among international experts in the field of Lepidoptera.

The year 1948 was a major milestone for Uster Technologies, as the first yarn evenness tester was introduced to the market. Peter Haettenschwiler was an assistant involved in the development of the tester and then in showing the diagrams and test results to spinners. Actually, he brought quality management to the mills, where the diagrams were seen as aids to accurate pricing, improved quality and forecasting how the yarns would suit processing stages. In this role, he became Uster’s first textile technologist.

Silk testing progress

Haettenschwiler also had a very special hobby. He collected bagworm

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - November 2021

Silk is often praised as ‘the queen of all textile fibers’ and a natural wonder. It’s no surprise therefore, that the quality parameters of spun silk fibers were of interest. Haettenschwiler tested silk spun yarn, but it must be said that it was some years along in the manufacturing of raw and spun silk until the first trials were made with commercially available testing systems. In the course of this work, cooperation with experts from silk institutes in Switzerland, Italy and later China were started.

The European silk trade was first to hear about the new test technologies. Early studies quickly showed that even very fine silk could be tested after certain adaptations of the devices. The test results were more neutral, more meaningful and more precise than the data obtained with traditional testing methods. Based on the test results, certificates were issued, and these were used to set the commercial values of the products. It was especially important for both trade and the subsequent treatment processes that the test results were accurate, so attention was closely focused on optimizing the testing methods.

The height of the silk business At the beginning of the 18th century, the ‘silk courts’ in Zurich were world famous and by 1900 the silk industry was one of the most important industries in Switzerland. Silk processing reached its peak at the beginning of the 20th century. What remains today are a handful of silk producers focusing on niche markets, as well as Testex, founded as `Zuerich Seidentrocknungsanstalt´

Features

silk drying) 175 years ago and the financial institutes which arose to provide capital to support the industry’s profits. Silk has never been a big business for Uster – only a niche for which Haettenschwiler showed his passion. There were Uster Statistics editions for both spun silk and raw silk, however, not surprisingly, as Haettenschwiler also played an outstanding role in developing Uster Statistics in its early years and through the decades. This story opens another page of Uster history. Haettenschwiler died this year on August 17. “He was a formative personality for the company and a highly engaged colleague who dedicated his working life to the textile industry with respect to an advanced quality management in staple and filament spinning. Silk was one of his great passions and the development of possible objective quality testing possibilities with Uster products was always his intention and he was always pushing for investigations and publications,” says Wolfram Soell, Senior Textile Technologist at Uster Technologies AG. “We would like to honor his working life and we should inspire future generations of textile professionals with his story.”

About Uster Technologies Uster Technologies offers hightechnology instruments, systems and services for quality control, prediction, certification and optimization in the textile industry.

benchmarks for trading, textile knowhow training, consulting and worldwide after-sales services – always aspiring to fulfill the textile market’s needs, to drive innovation forward with ‘quality in mind’. Uster Technologies AG is

This includes systems for quality management, laboratory testing and inline process control for fibers, staple and filament yarns, fabric inspection as well as value-added services.

headquartered in Uster, Switzerland and

Uster provides the globallyacknowledged Uster Statistics

(Switzerland), Knoxville (USA), Suzhou

operates worldwide. It has sales and service subsidiaries in the major textile markets and Technology Centers in Uster (China) and Caesarea (Israel). 

Events

The Multan Chamber of Commerce and Industry honours Syed Mahfooz Qutab A great interactive session was held on Friday, 26th Nov 2021 at the Multan Chamber of Commerce with Mr S M Qutab, Pakistan’s leading textile consultant and Chairman Textile Institute Manchester Pakistan Lahore Chapter. President Chamber of Commerce Multan Mr Khawaja Muhammad Hussain presided over this session. Mr Nadeem Ahmad GM Marketing Fatima Enterprise, Muzaffargarh organised this great function. Mr S M Qutab delivered a very informative lecture on the future of the Textile industry of Pakistan. In his address, he mentioned that Pakistan's textile future is very bright. According to him, we should focus on our quality standards and R & D. According to Mr Qutab, we should learn from our own experiences as well as researches carried out globally by different organizations. He strongly advised all participants to read magazines and research papers to remain updated. Mr Khawaja Muhammad Hussain, President Multan Chamber of Commerce and Industry also addressed the audience on this auspicious occasion. He apprised them about the government policies and the role of MCCI to enhance textile capabilities in the Multan region. He also guided participants on how to avail themselves of different incentives offered by the government.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - November 2021

Highly professional and learned participants were representing different textile weaving organisations of the Multan region. Some respectable participants Following are the name of some respectable participantsMr Khuwaja Muzaffer, Mehmood group, Mr Faisal Shoukat and Mr Aitizaz, Fazal Cloth Mills, Mr Imran Saeed, Masood Fabric, Mr Qamar Muhiuddin, Mehmood Textile, Mr Saqib Majeed, Ahmad Fine Weaving Mills, Mr Raza Shouq, Ahmad Fine Weaving Mills, Mr Saleem Matla, Fazal Rehman Weaving, Mr Sohail, Fazal Cloth. Besides the above mentioned, many senior managers especially UMT alumni participated in this informative session. The event was followed by dinner hosted by Mr Nadeem Ahmed GM Marketing Fatima Enterprises. 

Events

Classified

ADVERTISERS INDEX NOVEMBER 2021

Archroma ..................................................................BC AVM Chemicals ...................................................6 & 56 Chhipasons................................................................56 Cotton USA...............................................................FC Fongs ........................................................................11 IGATEX Pakistan 2022...............................................IBC ICADEX Pakistan 2022...............................................47 iTextiles .....................................................................31 ITMA Asia + Citme 2022 ...........................................45 ITM 2022 ..................................................................33 Jet Logistics................................................................56 Marzoli SpA ...............................................................29 Oerlikon......................................................................9 Picanol.........................................................................1 Rastgar.............................................................. 27 & 56 Saurer AG ..................................................................21 Thies GmbH ...............................................................17 Truetzschler .................................................................3 Uster .........................................................................13 Zhejiang Rifa..............................................................IFC

Established 1951 October 2021

Dyeing, Printing and Finishing II

Pakistan Textile Journal – November 2021

Articles inside

Spinners know what they want

TMAS members showcase sustainable finishing technologies

The doyen of silk testing

Kingpins24 Amsterdam Program + Fabric Sourcing Component Added to Digital Event

Leading brands of weaving technologies will launch at ITM 2022

JIAM 2022 OSAKA set to return in November 2022

Archroma awarded Ecovadis Platinum Medal CSR performance, joining top 1% best rated companies

Belt and Road Textile Conference 2021 concluded with success

James Heal presents new AirPro instrument for air permeability testing

Successful trade fair appearance

A new dynamic for the TMAS board

Trützschler establishes the Foundation for Children and Youth

Bolger & O’Hearn: Shell-Tech Free, the latest in ultra-durable, fluorine-free water repellence