Pakistan Textile Journal – September 2021 by Pakistan Textile Journal

Calendar of Events

Techtextil 2022, Frankfurt

Dornbirn GFC 2021 Dates: September 15th to 17th 2021. Venue: Webinar week - Online event.

Dates: June 21st to 24th, 2022

Apparel Sourcing Paris Autumn

Venue: Frankfurt am Main.

Dates: February 7th to 9th 2021. Venue: Paris

INTEX SOUTH ASIA 2022

Index 2021

Dates: July 27th to 29th 2022.

Dates: October 19th to 22th, 2021. Venue: Palexpo, Geneva, Switzerland

Venue: Colombo, Sri Lanka.

Apparel Sourcing Paris Autumn Dates: February 7th to 9th 2021. Venue: Paris

IGATEX Pakistan 2022, Lahore

FESPA 2021 Dates: October 12th to 15th 2021.

Dates: September 1st to 4th 2021.

Venue: Amsterdam.

Venue: Expo Centre, Lahore.

Istanbul Yarn Fair Dates: February 22nd to 26th 2022. Venue: Istanbul, Turkey.

Cinte Techtextil China Textile Asia 2021, Lahore

International Trade Fair for Technical Textiles and Nonwovens

Dates: October 22th to 24th 2021. Venue: Expo Centre, Lahore.

Textile Asia 2022, Karachi Dates: March 26th to 28th 2022. Venue: Expo Centre, Karachi.

Heimtextil 2022 Dates: January 11th to 14th 2022. Venue: Frankfurt am Main, Germany.

Dates: January 13 to 16

2022.

Venue: Hannover, Germany.

Dates: March 8th to 10th, 2022

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - September2021

Dates: September 6th to 8th, 2022. Venue: Shanghai New International Expo Centre, Shanghai, China

Venue: Cologne, Germany.

DOMOTEX asiaCHINAFLOOR 2022 Dates: May 27th to 27th 2022. Venue: NECC ,Shanghai, China.

DOMOTEX Hannover 2022 th

FILTECH 2022

ITM 2022

ITMA ASIA + CITME 2022 Dates: November 20th to 24th, 2022. Venue: NECC, Shanghai, China.

ITMA 2023

Dates: June 14th to 18th, 2022.

Dates: June 8th to 14th, 2023.

Venue: Istanbul, Turkey.

Venue: Milan, Italy.

Founded in 1951 by Mazhar Yusuf (1924-2009) Vol. LXX No. 09 September 2021

Publisher Nadeem Mazhar

Rs. 450.00

EDITOR’S PAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Editor in Chief Amina Baqai

TEXTILE BRIEFS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Associate Editor Dr. Noor Ahmed Memon

NEWS & VIEWS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Production Manager Mazhar Ali

Hony-Editorial Board

AROUND THE WORLD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 CORPORATE NEWS NOWOtex GmbH puts its faith in Oerlikon Nonwoven meltblown technology . . .22

Dr. Hafizur Rehman Sheikh

U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol adds global apparel leader, PVH Corp., and its iconic

Ph.D (UK) F.T.I. (UK)

brands as Members . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

Syed Mahfooz Qutab

ANDRITZ to supply textile recycling system to Renewcell, Sweden . . . . . . . . . .25

C.TEX, F.T.I (U.K), B.Sc. Fellow I.C.T.T Atlanta, GA; (USA)

Mian Iftkhar Afzal B.S.N.C State, M.Sc. (Leeds) C.TEXT.F.T.I (UK)

Dr. Zubair Bandukda PhD (Textiles), CText ATI

Editorial & Advertising Office B-4, 2nd Floor, 64/21, M.A.C.H, Miran M. Shah Road, Karachi - Pakistan Tel: +92-21-34311674-5 Fax: +92-21-34533616 Email: info@ptj.com.pk URL: http://www.ptj.com.pk

22 MILL REPORTS BRÜCKNER success in Turkey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Quality, efficiency and good service

Rieter customer Norfil benefits from flexible production with Comber E90 . . . .28 Consistent quality thanks to reliable real-time information with Rieter Quality Monitor

PTJ Europe Ltd. Correspondence & Mailing address: PTJ Europe Ltd. 93 Fleming Place, Bracknell, RG12 2GN, United Kingdom Tel: +44 792 2228 721 Registered Office: Dairy House, Money Row Green, Holyport, Maidenhead, Berkshire, SL6 2ND, UK Registered no. 09141989

Available on Gale and Factiva affiliated international databases through Asianet Pakistan

Printed at: Color Plus Korangi, Karachi. Published by Nadeem Mazhar from D-16, K.D.A. Scheme No.1. Karachi.

28 30 34

SPECIAL REPORT Sustainable and intelligent: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 The TC 19i sets the benchmark for energy-efficient carding

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DYES AND CHEMICALS

Archroma introduces the ‘Safe Edge’ online regulatory & compliance platform .38

PERSONALIA New CEO at SANITIZED AG: Michael Lüthi to assume leadership of the SANITIZED AG company group . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40

FAIRS AND EXHIBITIONS Intex South Asia International Business Matching week . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42

FESPA GLOBAL PRINT EXPO 2021 Fespa Brings the Colour Back . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44

EFI Reggiani Terra Silver debuts at FESPA 2021 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 It’s Time to Experience Print – Mimaki to Bring New Innovations and Application Opportunities to FESPA 2021 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47

INDEX20 GENEVA An opportunity to meet with customers and suppliers of nonwovens under . . . . .50 AUTEFA Solutions- INDEX 2021, Booth No 4035 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52 Right fiber, right fabric Automatically . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54 Uster offers a combined solution for nonwovens quality control

Italian Textile Machinery at Index, The World’s Leading nonwovens trade Sshowr .56

RadiciGroup at INDEX with new nonwovens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57 Beaulieu Fibres International showcasing its ‘fibres that build futures’ at INDEX20 . . . . .58 Asahi Kasei: Sustainable nonwoven fabric Bemliese™ certified as marine biodegradable by TÜV AUSTRIA Belgium . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60 Erhardt +Leimer to Introduce EL NETat INDEX . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62

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EDITOR’S PAGE

Supply chain disruption, a serious threat for Pakistan’s textile exports The Covid 19 pandemic has disrupted the well established inter-dependent global supply chains in the last 1.5 years in an unprecedented and unforeseen way. The freight cost for trade through sea routes has skyrocketed by approximately 700% with an acute shortage of container vessels. Therefore, due to which the delivery time has increased from 45 days to 90 days. On the one hand, this has increased the cost of production due to the imported raw materials needed, primarily cotton that is in short supply in Pakistan. The shortest route to import cotton and cotton yarn is through India by land and Uzbekistan through the Afghan Transit Trade. The extraordinary hike in the logistics cost, have severely affected the bottom line of exporters primarily the SMEs in the value-added sectors. The young entrepreneurs, who have been working mostly online, have been affected severely due to continuous hikes in rates of DHL parcel service. As a shortterm solution, the government should waive taxes on courier services, especially for the export-oriented SME sector to reduce its cost of doing business. As a long-term measure, we will have to revive and upgrade our PIA cargo service, national shipping line and Pakistan postal service to reduce dependence on global cargo and courier services. The inactive Pakistan National Shipping Corporation (PNSC) should be reactivated to facilitate the exporters, as this strategy could help the government keep freight costs in control and making textile exports competitive in the global market.

Established 1951 September 2021

Belgian Review

September 2021.

A long term threat to exports to faraway markets such as the USA and Europe is a shift to local or regional suppliers. Logistics managers plan to pivot towards regional/domestic supply chains. For years, supply chains have focused on reducing inventory levels and cutting costs by embracing lean, just-in-time management in their logistics plans. These efforts negatively impacted the resilience and agility of the supply chain. The pandemic exposed weaknesses in contingency planning and risk mitigation strategies across the world. From the initial scarcity in personal protective equipment to the shortage in micro-processors, challenges emerged in linking suppliers of goods on one side of the planet to sources of demand on the other. As a result, companies are growing more risk-averse with their global manufacturing footprint. Almost two-thirds of shippers in a recent survey (68%) conducted in the US believe supply chains have become too global and must be balanced towards more regional and local/domestic ecosystems. Nearly 70% of companies in the survey said supply chains have become too global and the risks associated with a single source of supply have increased dramatically during the pandemic. A single outbreak of COVID-19 at a far away from manufacturing hub can have reverberations thousands of miles away. What is of great concern for our exporters is that a new definition of a single source of supply now includes a single country or region, not just exposure to one company. Growing thinking is that when a global link breaks, regional links need to be selfsustainable. Until these links can be established reliably, risks associated with raw material shortages, rising transportation costs and delays will likely continue. The traditional textile suppliers in Europe such as Spain, Portugal and even Turkey will be more viable in the future due to this new yet supposedly long term and lasting trend.

Textile Briefs National

Pakistan’s textile

skyrocketing prices and allow

exports surged by 17

China and other neighbouring

duty-free import of cotton and

diversion of the orders out of

percent to $1.49 billion

Asian countries. The focus on

cotton yarn.

in July, the first month of cur-

more value addition and new

rent fiscal 2021-22, as com-

textile policy of the country

pared to $1.28 billion in the

will support the organic

same month of last fiscal year.

growth in exports.

The Cotton Crop Assessment Committee was informed that Pakistan is expected to produce 8.46 million cotton bales this year, mainly due to the climatic condition which remained better than last year.

The strong growth fig-

ures, despite the slowdown posed by the

The United States and

Pakistan agreed to enhance economic and

Covid-19, have come as a

trade ties in different areas of

welcome development as

the economy and also decided

Pakistan eyes higher foreign

to look for new avenues of

exchange receipts. It is also

trade.

believe that the growth momentum would continue in the coming months.

PYMA has appealed

Prime Minister to take measures for reducing

Pakistan’s textiles and

the cost of production of

clothing exports are

value-added textile industry, in

expected to rise in the

view of the shortage of

coming months due to the

cotton, cotton yarn and the

The first fortnightly report of the Pakistan Cotton Ginners Association said that out of the total, 1.51 million bales were sold to the mills, 200 to the exporters, while 280,388 bales were in stocks.

The prices of cotton have dropped in Punjab and is being sold at Rs13,900 per maund. In Sindh, the cotton is being sold at Rs13,700 per maund. The exports of Ready-

made garments during the first month of FY

2021-22 grew by 9.83 per cent as compared to the exports of the corresponding period of last year. The Ministry of

Commerce has released Rs6 bil-

lion under duty drawback on local taxes and levies (DLTL)

scheme, informed Advisor to

while cotton and man-made textiles are estimated to have grown by over 50 per cent year-on-year, readymade garment exports have increased by nearly 15 per cent.

Turkey has launched a Sustainability Action Plan for its textile industry in a bid to increase global market share by reducing environmental impact.

Cotton prices have fallen by Rs200 to 300 per maund in Pakistan.

PM on Trade and Investment Abdul Razak Dawood. 

Textile Briefs International Bangladesh has regained its position as the second largest apparel exporter by earning $1.94 billion more than Vietnam in the first seven months of this year, according to the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA). Bangladesh exported apparel products worth $18.80 billion during the period, against Vietnam's $16.86 billion.

Readymade garment exporters in the country had been requesting the government for sometimes to make yarn import open through all land ports, alleging that the price of the item had increased by 50-60 per cent in the domestic market compared to that in the international market, according to Bangla media reports.

Turkey’s textiles, apparel and home textiles exports are expected to rise in the rest of the year due to consistently rising freight rates and high transport costs on the China-Europe routes. Turkey exported textiles, apparel and home textiles worth $2.33 billion in January 2021, which increased by 14.99 per cent in Q1 2021 to reach $2.68 billion in March 2021.

India’s textile and apparel exports to the United States, its single largest market, were up 55 per cent in the first seven months of 2021. This is the fastest pace of growth among the top five countries exporting textile and garments to the US.

Textiles and garments exports from India have shown a positive growth in the month of August 2021,

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - September 2021

The Indonesian textiles Industry is expected to record a CAGR of greater than 5%. Accelerating exports growth is a major driving factor for the market with high dependency on imported raw material is likely to act as a restraint for the market.

In recent years, nonwovens production has grown on a global scale, much more significantly than the traditional textile industry. According to figures, the global association of nonwovens companies grew by 7.2 per cent in 2020 to reach 3 million tonnes, with a total estimated turnover of €9.6 million.

UKFT is working with IBM, Tech Data, and the Future Fashion Factory to design, prototype and pilot a new technology platform to help the UK fashion and textile industry to drive sustainability and profitability through increased transparency within the supply chain.

The import of textiles and apparel by the United States increased by 29.29 per cent to $60.393 billion in the first seven months of 2021, compared to $46.712 billion in January-July 2020.

Pakistan's textile industry starts new fiscal year with exports surge by 17%

produce the value-added and finished products which will further increase by 20 per-cent by the end of current fiscal 2021-22”, he said.

Pakistan’s textile exports surged by 17 per-cent to $1.49 billion in July, the first month of current fiscal 2021-22, as compared to US $1.28 billion in the same month of last fiscal, as per the export data of textile products.

Under the value-added products, the export of articles of apparel and clothing accessories, knitted or crocheted has increased up by 26 per-cent to US $398.384 million in July if compared with the export of US $315.194 million of the said items registered in the corresponding period of 2020 in the same period.

The value-added sector that represents 78 per-cent of the textile export has also registered an unprecedented growth of more than 17 per-cent cumulatively. “This is a landmark achievement with a 17 per-cent increase in export of textile products”, said Shahid Sattar, Secretary-General and Executive Director of All Pakistan Textile Association (APTMA). He mentions that 10 years back, the Pakistan textile sector used to get a benefit of US $2.50 by using cotton of one US dollar. Now its capacity has increased to benefit up to US $6.50 with the use of cotton valuing one dollar. “The textile sector has substantially Shahid Sattar, Secretaryincreased its General and Executive Director capacity to of (APTMA).

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - September 2021

The data also says that articles of apparel and clothing accessories, not knitted or crocheted went up by 11 percent to US $303.383million, whereas the export of the same items during the period under review in the last year 2020

stood at US $273.895 million. However, the exports of other valueadded products such as made-up textile articles, worn clothing and worn textile articles and rags showed growth of 7 percent to US $459.155 million in July 2021 if compared with the export of US $428.571 million of the same items in the corresponding period of 2020. The cotton products have also shown growth in exports by 29 per-cent to US $275.858 million against the exports of $213.614 million in July 2020. The exports of man-made filaments; strip and the like of man-made textile materials has also climbed up by 29 per-cent and manmade staple fibres went up by 19 per-cent in July.

Despite pandemic, global demand for Pakistan textile to remain strong The strong growth figures, despite the slowdown posed by the Covid-19, have come as a welcome development as Pakistan eyes higher foreign exchange receipts. Analysts say this is a testament to the strong demand for the country's textiles in the global market, adding that they believe the growth momentum would continue in the coming months. “We believe that the demand for Pakistan’s textiles globally is likely to remain strong due to continued rerouting of orders out of China and other regional Asian countries,” wrote an investment analyst, in a recent report. “The capacity enhancements by various textile exporters is an indication of strong order flows, while exports’ competitiveness is also supported by recent PKR depreciation, the continued rationalization of imports tariffs on raw materials and power subsidies from the government.” As per the Pakistan Bureau of Statistics (PBS) latest figures, Pakistan’s textile group exports declined by 11.32% on a month-on-month basis and remained US $1.471 billion in July 2021 compared to a record-setting US $1.658 billion in June 2021. However, textile group exports have witnessed a growth of 15.61 per-cent on a year-on-year basis and remained US $1.471 billion in July 2021 compared to US $1.272 billion in July 2020. The analyst added that a renewed focus on value addition may also allow for organic growth in exports in the coming months, whereas the arrival of the new Textile Policy will further ensure sustained competitiveness of the sector, “and will be another impetus for Textile stocks.” Pakistan needs higher exports to ensure its trade deficit remains manageable. As the government targets faster economic growth, it is likely to put pressure on Pakistan's import cover. Hence, stakeholders and policymakers are looking to promote the country's exports as well as other earners of foreign exchange to ensure the deficit remains under control.

Diversion of orders out of China to benefit Pakistan's textile exports Pakistan’s textiles and clothing exports are expected to rise in the coming months due to the diversion of the orders out of China and other neighbouring Asian countries. The focus on more value addition and the new textile policy of the country will support the organic growth in exports. The depreciation of PKR has also boosted textile exports. North American and European countries have placed orders for textiles and clothing goods in China, Bangladesh and other Southeast Asian economies, which is why the textile mills and processing units of these countries are working at full capacity. Hence, new orders are being diverted to Pakistani suppliers and the rate is rising consistently. The government of Pakistan is also supporting the exporters by minimizing duty and taxes on imports of most

News & Views raw materials to bring down the input costs of exportable products. The Ministry of Commerce has allotted PKR 6 billion under duty drawback on local taxes and levies (DLTL) scheme. Out of the total fund, PKR 5.60 billion is allotted to the textile sector as it is a major earner of foreign exchange. This has resolved the liquidity issues to some extent in the country’s export sector. In addition to the above, the largescale manufacturing (LSM) sector of the country grew at a rate of more than 10 per-cent in the last fiscal year owing to the country’s effective industrial growth policies. The Sino-US trade tussle has also played a pivotal role in boosting the textile and clothing exports of Pakistan. The monthly average of apparel exports from Pakistan was US $565.60 million in H1 2021, which is expected to rise by 13.44 per-cent in H2 2021 to reach US $641.60 million. The US, the UK, Germany, Spain and France were the top importers of Pakistani apparel in H1 and accounted for approximately 68.27 per-cent of total apparel exports of the country. Pakistan’s monthly average of textile exports was US $278.77 million in H1 2021. It is expected to drop by 6.52 percent in H2 2021 to reach a monthly average of US $260.58 million. Bangladesh, the US, Turkey, Italy and Sri Lanka were the top five importers of Pakistani fabrics in H1 2021 and accounted for approximately 46.64 percent of the total fabric exports of the country. France, the Philippines, the US, the UK and Taiwan were the top five destinations for Pakistani textile fibres in H1 2021 and accounted for approximately 56.40 per-cent of total textile fibres export of the country. China, Bangladesh, Portugal, the US and Turkey were the top five markets for Pakistani textile yarns in H1 2021 and accounted for approximately 85.63 per-cent of total textile yarns exports of the country. The monthly average of home textile exports of Pakistan is expected to go up from US $393.22 million in H1 2021 to US $448.23 million in H2 2021. The US, the UK, Germany, Netherlands and France were the top five importers of Pakistani home textiles in H1 2021 and accounted for approximately 70.09 per-

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - September 2021

cent of total home textiles exports of the country. The collective monthly average of textiles and clothing exports of Pakistan was US $1237.55 million in H1 2021. This is expected to increase by 9.12 percent in H2 2021 to reach US $1350.40 million.

US, Pakistan agree to enhance economic ties The United States and Pakistan agreed to enhance economic and trade ties in different areas of the economy and also decided to look for new avenues of trade. Adviser to Prime Minister on Commerce and Investment Abdul Razak Dawood and US Secretary of Commerce Gina M Raimondo held a telephonic conversation to discuss the obstacles in the way of promoting trade and investment between the two countries. According to a press release issued by the Ministry of Commerce, it was the second such engagement at the top level on trade and investment since the inauguration of the Biden administration in Washington. The first dialogue was held with the US trade representative in May 2021. The adviser highlighted the trade and investment opportunities for US enterprises in Pakistan in the areas of textile, agriculture, IT, engineering and pharmaceutical. The US secretary of commerce showed keen interest in investment opportunities in the digital economy in Pakistan.

Both sides underlined the importance of enhancing collaboration to remove trade barriers and subsequently deepen bilateral trade between the two countries.

Textile exporters seek steps to reduce the cost of production The Pakistan Yarn Merchants Association (PYMA) has appealed to Prime Minister Imran Khan to take measures for reducing the cost of production of the value-added textile industry, given the shortage of cotton, cotton yarn and the sky rocketing prices and allow duty-free import of cotton and cotton yarn from Turkey, India and Uzbekistan by land to help exporters compete in the ongoing price race in international markets. In an appeal to the prime minister, Hanif Lakhany, vice president of the Federation of Pakistan Chambers of Commerce and Industry (FPCCI) and senior vice chairman of Pakistan Yarn Merchants Association (PYMA), Farhan Ashrafi, vice chairman of PYMA and convener FPCCI’s Central Standing Committee on Yarn Trading, said that the value-added sector in the country is facing immense difficulties due to the shortage and price of cotton and cotton yarn, which are at record levels, as the cotton yarn is not available to these export industries even at high prices as per the production demand. “If this situation continues, not only will it be difficult to fulfil export orders, but Pakistani exporters will also lose the

ability to compete in the global markets, which could harm the country’s exports, so the government should seriously consider PYMAs proposal in the best interest of the country’s economy,” they feared. The PYMA office-bearers said the exporters in the valueadded sector are reluctant to accept new orders due to difficulties in procuring basic raw materials due to which these orders can be transferred to other countries. Lakhany and Ashrafi appealed to Prime Minister Imran Khan to assist exporters in fulfilling old export orders on time and taking new orders, while also issuing directives to allow duty-free import of cotton, cotton yarn from Turkey, India and Uzbekistan by land.

Estimated production of 8.46 million cotton bales The Cotton Crop Assessment Committee was informed that Pakistan is expected to produce 8.46 million cotton bales this year, mainly due to the climatic condition which remained better than last year. Sindh, which suffered a heavy loss of cotton crop last year, is expected to produce 3.5 million bales this year. The cotton production in Punjab is expected at 4.5 million bales this year which will be an increase of 8.5 per-cent over the last year’s crop. Presiding over a meeting of the assessment committee, Minister for National Food Security and Research Syed Fakhr Imam attributed this year’s cotton production to the intervention price, which he said, was announced after eight years, and encouraged growers to invest in crop management and harvest high yields. The government has announced an intervention price of Rs 5,000 per 40 kg for cotton this year. Mr Imam said that growers from Sindh and Punjab also praised this act and requested the government to replicate the intervention price for sugarcane and wheat. The minister informed the meeting that 2020 witnessed 398.6 mm rainfall which had a devastating impact on cotton production, whereas this year the rainfall was recorded at 78.6 mm which has improved the prospect of overall production. Mr Imam said the government had performed exceptionally well in the last season as Pakistan had the highest production in the top five crops, including wheat, with a record production of 27.5m tonnes. “The government aims to transform the cotton production as well, as the PTI government was supporting the cotton grower in every capacity,” he concluded.

Cotton stockpiling reaches 1.79 million bales in September The country stockpiled 1.79 million bales up till September 1, 2021, a report showed, with a 100 per-cent increase expected by the mid of this month. The first fortnightly report of the Pakistan Cotton Ginners Association said that out of the total, 1.51 million bales were sold to the

News & Views

mills, 200 to the exporters, while 280,388 bales were in stocks.

Assessment Committee held this season’s first meeting on September 1.

Sources in the industry expected arrivals of around 2.22 million bales by September 15, which would be an increase of around 100 per-cent, compared with 1.03 million bales in the same period last year.

It revised the cotton production target with a reduction of 2.0 million bales to 8.5 million bales from earlier estimates of

Sindh contributed 1.21 million bales in the total arrivals led by Hyderabad district with 91,061crops Analysts said the crop size would reach 9.5 million bales if weather conditions remained favourable. This year, the cotton season was early. Due to attractive rates of phutti (seed-cotton), farmers gave full attention to their crops. Besides, expected good weather can further help the crop, the analyst added. Karachi Cotton Brokers Association Chairman Naseem Usman said the cotton crop was satisfactory in the country, the weather remained suitable and pest attacks were low compared with the past years. “Per acre yield is also higher this year and seed-cotton prices are increased, while more ginning factories have commenced operations.” On the other hand, Cotton Crop

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - September 2021

10.5 million bales. One analyst said that since it was the start of the season, nothing could be said regarding the estimated production. Crop production might improve, he concluded.

Readymade garment exports witness a record increase of 9.83 per-cent The exports of Ready-made garments during the first month of FY 2021-22 grew by 9.83 per-cent as compared to the exports of the corresponding period of last year. During the period from July 21, ready-made garments worth the US $301,188 were also exported in the current financial year as compared to the exports of valued at the US $ 274,237 of the same period of last year. According to the data released by the Pakistan Bureau of Statistics, the exports of Bed wear were increased by 8.28 percent, worth the US $263,343 were exported as compared to the US $ 243,198 of the same period last year. During the period under view, other textile materials export increased by 17.98 per-cent as worth US $57,537 were exported in the current fiscal year as compared to the exports of valuing the US $48,769 of the same period of last year.

Govt releases Rs. 6 billion under DLTL scheme for exporters The Ministry of Commerce has released Rs 6 billion under duty drawback on local taxes and levies (DLTL) scheme, informed Advisor to Prime Minister on Trade and Investment Abdul Razak Dawood. The Ministry of Commerce (MOC) has released a total of Rs 6 billion under DLTL schemes including Rs 5.6 billion for the textile sector and Rs 400 million for the non-textile sector. “I hope this will contribute to improving the liquidity issues of our exporters and enable them to enhance Pakistan’s exports,” he said. The government has initiated a 'Make in Pakistan' trade policy, which aims to introduce Pakistan's traditional and non-traditional export sectors and local products in the international trade market. Just days ago, Dawood expressed hope that by the last fiscal year of the current government's tenure, i.e, 2023, the country's exports would reach US $50 billion by following the policy of trade diversification in potential trade sectors and markets. As per the Pakistan Bureau of Statistics (PBS), during FY 2021, exports increased by 18.3 per-cent to US $25.3 billion ($21.4 billion last year). Major exported commodities included knitwear, posting growth of 36.6 per-cent, Readymade garments; 18.8 per-cent, Bed wear; 28.9 per-cent, Towel; 31.8 percent, carpet, rugs & mats; 36.9 per-cent, leather manufactured; 18.7 per-cent. Meanwhile, Pakistan’s exports figures during the first month of the current fiscal year amounted to US $2.3 billion, the highest figures in July showing a percentage growth of 17.3 per-cent as compared to US $2 billion in July 2020. 

BANGLADESH BGMEA & WRAP to join forces for apparel market expansion Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers Association BGMEA President Faruque Hassan and Vice President Miran Ali met with Avedis Seferian, President and CEO of Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production (WRAP) in the US and discussed ways of collaboration and market expansion. Hong Mei, senior director of compliance assurance at WRAP, and Srishti Sharma, director of compliance administration, were also present at the meeting in Washington DC. Mark Jaeger, vice-president of stakeholder engagement, Aimee Dobrzeniecki, vice-president of administration, joined the discussion virtually. The BGMEA president discussed matters related to the expansion of Bangladesh's business interests in the Western Hemisphere, particularly in North America.

The talks also included ways of cooperation and future engagement between the BGMEA and WRAP for Bangladesh's apparel industry. They also had discussions on how more cooperative and coordinated efforts can be made to facilitate WRAP certification for garment factories in Bangladesh and enhance the reputation of the country as a safe and compliant source of apparel sourcing in the world. During the meeting, BGMEA President Faruque Hassan highlighted the progress of Bangladesh's garment industry in the areas of workplace safety, social and environmental sustainability. The readymade garments (RMG) industry of Bangladesh has earned global recognition for its unprecedented strides over the years in safety, sustainability and social compliance, he said. Faruque sought cooperation and support from Avedis to portray the positive picture of the Bangladesh apparel industry internationally.

BRAZIL Rise in cotton index by 7.9% in August 2021 Between July 30 and August 31, Brazil's CEPEA/ESALQ Index for cotton increased by 7.9 per-cent, closing at 5.3540 BRL/pound on August 31. The rise in Index during the month was due to slightly higher demand and low cotton supply in the national spot market and international valuations for the product as reported by CEPEA In general, during the month, "Brazilian cotton farmers were focused on the harvesting, cotton processing and the accomplishment of contracts. The sellers interested in closing deals continued to increase asking prices along the month, based on the lower output in the 2020-21 season, the high volume already traded and lower inventories. In the last week of the month, however, agents from trading companies were more interested in the domestic market, where prices have been more attractive than export values," the CEPEA report said. Some of the buyers needed cotton for prompt delivery, while others were not interested expecting values to decrease as cotton processing advances and contracts are closed. Some processing plants reported higher sales in August, but these agents were still cautious about purchasing high volumes, fearing difficulties to pass on production costs, the report concluded.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - September 2021

CHINA Shipping disruptions, material price spike squeeze profits of China’s textile makers After reaping the benefits from the large amount of personal protective equipment (PPE) exports in 2020, textile mills in China now face an export dip as disruptions in global shipping industry are causing prices to spike, squeezing the profits of the low-margin clothing and textile sector. In July, China's textile products exports dropped 26.78 percent to $11.7 billion, official customs data revealed. From January to July, China's textile industry exported $80.25 billion worth of textile products, down 10.8 percent compared with the corresponding period of 2020 when medical supplies were in short supply due to the raging coronavirus. Overseas orders placed in July were down from March and April levels. The sky rocketing shipping prices and rising raw material costs squeezed profits amongst Chinese textile firms. Some are even unwilling to receive new orders and ship goods. The containers held up at ports overseas had led to the latest decline in textile exports. In tandem with a flare-up of the coronavirus within China, the partial shutdown of the world's third-busiest container port - Ningbo-Zhoushan port - further affected already fragile supply chains. The shipping prices for large containers jumped four to eight times from last year, leaving vendors to consider air freight as an alternative. For the low-margin textile industry, when transport spending accounts for one-fourth of the total costs, the economics stop making sense for many textile firms, according to Chinese manufacturers. Surging raw material costs worsened the situation. For textile plants, if they don't operate they would break the contracts; but if they do, they incur heavy losses. However, the exports drop didn't mean textile mills in China have been idle. When the garment manufacturing factories in emerging economies in Southeast Asia and South Asia ground to a halt due to the Delta variant, orders again shifted to China, expanding the businesses of Chinese mills from producing upstream textile materials to garment processing.

EGYPT Cotton harvest to increases by 30 percent A US Department of Agriculture report has highlighted that it expects Egypt’s cotton harvest to increase by over 30 per-cent on an annual basis reaching 280,000 bales in the current year of July 2021 to June 2022 period. The growth in the cotton harvest is anticipated to be accompanied with an expansion of the land allocated for the crop by 20 per-cent to reach 85,000 hectares.

Around the World

The rise in demand, coupled with a hike in prices during 2021, has incentivised farmers to keep growing cotton even when the season ends. However, despite such promising increases, Egypt’s cotton harvest will not record its pre-coronavirus levels, when 305,000 bales of cotton were collected in 2019-20. This could mean a substantial recovery from the onset of the pandemic, shedding light on an even better outcome that may be expected in the future. Egypt exports a large part of its cotton, especially that planted in Lower Egypt. With 66 per-cent going to India and 17 per-cent to Pakistan, making the two the largest importers of Egyptian cotton, followed by Bangladesh.

INDIA Record cotton consumption, strong exports: USDA India’s 2021/22 cotton consumption is forecast at a record 25.5 million bales (Mb) and exports are projected at the second-highest level in eight years at 5.8 million, according to the latest report from the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA).

Stock levels nearly doubled to a record two years ago primarily due to the these factors.

reporting three consecutive quarters of double-digit growth thereafter, according to rating agency ICRA.

The International Monetary Fund’s October Update projected India’s GDP growth at 9.5 per cent in 2021 and 8.5pc in 2022, which is expected to support domestic consumption of cotton textiles and garments.

“India’s home textile exports grew at a healthy rate of 9 per cent in FY21 despite pandemic-led operational disruptions. This followed a muted trend in the previous years.

India’s textile exports rise 13 per cent over pre-pandemic level The government of India has approved a production-linked incentive (PLI) scheme worth Rs 10,683 for the textile industry in a major boost to domestic manufacturing and exports. Incidentally, India’s textile exports shot up this year even as the deadly second Covid wave shook the country. Between January and July, India exported textile products worth Rs 1.77 lakh crore, which is 52.6 per cent more than the same period last year and 13.7 per cent more than the pre-pandemic level of 2019.

Among product categories, blankets, curtains, etc. remained the fastest growing segment with a 28 per cent growth in FY21, followed by carpets and floor coverings with a 12 per cent growth. The Indian textile market, despite its size, has continued to struggle in the global arena. “With Vietnam being the world’s third-largest garment manufacturer and Bangladesh continuing to boost its garment export from $26 billion to more than $33 billion in the last five years, India’s export has remained stagnant at around $36 billion,” according to rating agency Infomerics. While the magnitude of textile exports is on a rise, the share of textile in India’s overall exports is on continuous decline, from 14.1 per cent in 2015, it fell to 10.9 per cent in the current year.

This level of total use is forecast to lower ending stocks to 12.4 million bales, down nearly 4 million bales compared with the record level two years prior.

The highest proportion of India’s textile exports worth Rs 44,923 crore went to the United States, followed by Bangladesh, the United Arab Emirates, China and the United Kingdom. Interestingly, the value of exports to the US is thrice than that of Bangladesh.

Garment and Textile Exports increase by 28%

A robust recovery from the COVID19 pandemic and stronger domestic consumption and exports of cotton yarn, fabric, and products are projected to support a significant downfall in stocks.

The home textile exports was one of the first few textile segments to recover from the impact of the pandemic last fiscal, with companies reverting to onyear growth from Q2 FY21 itself and

From January to June, Sri Lankan industry was the beneficiary of a low rate of Covid-19 infections. The value of textile and garment exports from Sri Lanka increased by 28 per cent year-on-

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - September 2021

SRI LANKA

year to $2.5 billion in the January to June period, according to statistics released by the Central Bank of Sri Lanka. Exports of textiles increased 47.8 percent to $156.6 million, while garment exports were up 30.8 percent to $2.27 billion. The two categories accounted for 56.43 percent of all industrial exports from Sri Lanka during the first half of 2021, the report said. From the start of 2021 until the end of May, Sri Lanka was able to maintain a low level of Covid-19 infections, helping it gain a competitive edge over neighbouring textile and garment producers that were struggling with major Covid-related disasters. The second half of the year is likely to tell a different story. From June onwards, Sri Lanka’s own infections have climbed, reaching historic highs in August 2021. Sri Lanka’s government has rejected calls for a lockdown or curfews to help stem this rise in infections, saying the country is on track to vaccinate everyone over the age of 18 by September. Leading international buyers are looking elsewhere to place orders, with estimates that 20 percent of business has already moved to Bangladesh, Sri Lanka and Vietnam.

Joint Apparel Associations Forum draws 5point plan to sustain industry’s long-term growth The Joint Apparel Associations Forum (JAAF) of Sri Lanka has formulated a 5-point framework to coordinate the industry’s response to challenges stemming from COVID-19 and to drive stakeholder collaboration towards ensuring sustained long-term growth of Sri Lanka’s entire apparel sector. 1. Ensure a safe working environment for employees. 2. Enhance backward integration. 3. High-level collaboration with the authorities on retaining and improving export market access. 4. Position Sri Lanka’s apparel industry globally for the future. 5. Develop the competitiveness of the Small and Medium Enterprise (SME) players in the sector. “At this crucial juncture, the entire industry must collaborate if we are to effectively address challenges stemming from the pandemic and create conducive conditions for long-term growth of the sector,” JAAF Secretary General, Tuli Cooray said. “This Five-Point Plan is a framework which all industry stakeholders can use to collaborate in achieving our shared vision for Sri Lanka.” Action on the plan’s first priority – worker safety – has already been initiated, with an accelerated vaccination programme. As of August, 90 per cent of the workforce has received first doses, and up to 50 per cent of workers have received their second doses. In enhancing backward integration, the Eravur Fabric Processing Park will be a key development. It will aid in increasing the sector’s local value addition from the current 52 to 65 per cent, a significant increase. JAAF expects to

Around the World TURKEY Rising China-Europe freight rates to benefit Turkey's textile exports Turkey’s textiles, apparel and home textiles exports are expected to rise in the rest of the year due to consistently rising freight rates and high transport costs on the China-Europe routes. The freight costs for exporting goods from China to Italy are over five times more than the same for Turkey to Europe, thus giving Turkey a competitive advantage. The global demand for clothing and textiles is also rising due to vaccination drives in most countries and implementation of strong measures and business models to deal with the impact of the pandemic. This will also drive Turkey’s textile and apparel exports. collaborate with the authorities to develop a conducive policy framework to attract investments to Sri Lanka for fabric production. Effective backward integration also requires raising the standard of locallyproduced fabric (particularly by smaller participants in the industry) to globally accepted levels, for such inputs to be used for exports. JAAF will partner with the government to ensure the continuation of GSP+ by the EU; and also to ensure continued benefits for its members from the United Kingdom’s GSP scheme. JAAF will also engage with the Sri Lankan government on improving market access for apparel exports through bilateral trade agreements – including with the UK and via the proposed Free Trade Agreement (FTA) with China. Similarly, the possibility of greater penetration into the Indian market will be explored. Further, JAAF will work towards positioning Sri Lanka as the hub for global apparel manufacturing operations. JAAF will work with local authorities to create a conducive business environment where Sri Lanka can be the headquarters for global apparel manufacturing. This would facilitate the inflow of highly skilled front-end design and development job opportunities to Sri Lanka from around the world.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - September 2021

In positioning Sri Lanka’s apparel sector globally for the future, especially as a premium apparel exporter, the industry will look to go beyond the success of its ‘Garments without Guilt’ initiative. Emphasis will be placed on excellence in sustainable and ethical manufacturing, aspiring to become the standard by which other countries are measured. Certain industry initiatives have already been launched (circularity in fashion, sustainability, and carbon neutrality). In fact, even today, Sri Lanka plays host to the world’s first net-zero carbon apparel manufacturing facility, the world’s highest-rated LEED platinum building, South Asia’s only Passive House, and the world’s first apparel group to have all its facilities certified as a net-zero carbon emitter. JAAF will also work towards supporting sustainable growth in Sri Lanka’s apparel sector by adopting a series of coordinated measures to strengthen the SMEs in the industry. These initiatives will include providing assistance to improve the compliance capabilities of these players, advocating for greater government support on their behalf on aspects such as financing and export market access and engaging with the Department of Labour to improve its awareness of issues faced by the SMEs.

Turkey exported textiles, apparel and home textiles worth $2.33 billion in January 2021, which increased by 14.99 per cent in Q1 2021 to reach $2.68 billion in March 2021. Exports further increased to $2.79 billion in June 2021 and are now expected to touch $2.96 billion by December 2021.

USA US textiles & apparel imports up 29.29% in Jan-July 2021 The imports of textiles and apparel increased by over 29 per cent to US $60 billion in the first seven months of 2021, compared to US $46 billion in JanuaryJuly 2020. China having the largest share of textile and clothing exports that stood at 27 per cent followed by Vietnam at 14 per cent. The bulk of imports were of apparel made by the US during the first seven months of this year which was valued at US $42 billion. While non-apparel imports accounted for the remaining US $18 billion, according to data released by the US department of commerce. Segment-wise, among the top ten apparel suppliers to the US, imports from El Salvador, Honduras and Pakistan shot up by 75 per cent, 74 per cent and 69 per cent year-on-year respectively

Around the World In the non-apparel category, among the top ten suppliers, imports from India, Turkey, Italy and Pakistan soared by 75 per cent, 70 per cent, 56 per cent and 42 per cent, respectively. The sharp rise could be attributed to the slowdown in imports due to Covid-19 the previous year, which resulted in such accelerate growth of imports. Of the total US textile and apparel imports of $60.393 billion during the

current period cotton products were worth over US $26 billion, while manmade fibre products accounted for US $31 billion, followed by US $1.4 billion of wool products, and US $1.2 billion of products from silk and vegetable fibres. In 2020, the US textile and apparel imports had decreased sharply, mainly due to the Covid-19 pandemic induced disruption, from US $111 billion in 2019 to a significant fall to US $89 billion.

VIETNAM Vietnam Overtakes Bangladesh in Garment Exports Vietnam sold $29 billion worth of apparel to the world in 2020, while Bangladesh’s ready-made garment exports were valued at $28 billion, the World Trade Organisation’s (WTO) latest World Trade Statistical Review shows. Bangladesh had been the world’s second largest garment exporter since 2010, according to WTO rankings. Garment exports from both Vietnam and Bangladesh fell in 2020 due to Covid-19, but Bangladesh’s exports declined at a faster pace than Vietnam’s, the WTO report said. The Southeast Asian nation was a particular beneficiary of orders shifted from China at the very beginning of the pandemic. China remains the world’s largest exporter of apparel with 31.6 percent of the global total, despite a 7 percent yearon-year drop in 2020 of the total value of its apparel exports, to $142 billion.

Corporate News

NOWOtex GmbH puts its faith in Oerlikon Nonwoven meltblown technology High-performance meltblown system with ecuTEC+ commissioned Oerlikon Nonwoven has commissioned a high performance meltblown system with ecuTEC+ electro-charging unit at NOWOtex GmbH & Co. KG in Eichenzell, Germany. The Hesse-based company specializes in needled nonwovens and – with the new system – now also has meltblown nonwovens manufacturing capacities, allowing NOWOtex to expand its product portfolio. As of now, the company is producing polypropylene filter nonwovens, which are particularly suitable for protective masks. The coronavirus pandemic has not only increased demand for protective masks, the domestic manufacture of these products is now also be promoted and supported by the German Government. Using the new meltblown system, NOWOtex will in future be manufacturing first-class filter nonwovens that can be used to produce up to 600 million operating room filter masks or 300 million highly effective FFP2 masks per year. The system has been optimally equipped with the ecuTEC+ electrocharging unit for the production of

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - September 2021

mask nonwovens. “Thanks to the excellent collaboration, the system has been operating under stable production conditions for several weeks now, with optimum nonwoven quality of the very highest standards”, summarizes Vincent Bach, Managing Director of NOWOtex. And the system is also ideal for manufacturing other high-end filtration nonwovens for industrial applications. “The Oerlikon Nonwoven system offers us maximum flexibility, allowing us to not just manufacture nonwovens for masks. Demand is huge and, thanks to the meltblown system, we have been able to launch our new NOWOmelt product range. This is providing our clients with an even broader range of innovative nonwovens,” explains Bach, talking about the investment in the new Oerlikon Nonwoven system. And Dr. Ingo Mählmann, Senior Vice President Sales & Marketing Oerlikon Nonwoven, adds: “Many systems exclusively designed for mask nonwoven production were commissioned during the pandemic. In contrast, we are focusing on sustainability.

Our meltblown systems have been designed in such a way that they can be converted for other applications – both quickly and without great expense. This means that our customers are wellequipped for future requirements.”

About Oerlikon Oerlikon (SIX: OERL) is a global innovation powerhouse for surface engineering, polymer processing and additive manufacturing. Its solutions and comprehensive services, together with its advanced materials, improve and maximize performance, function, design and sustainability of its customers’ products and manufacturing processes in key industries. Pioneering technology for decades, everything the company invents and does is guided by its passion to support its customers’ goals and foster a sustainable world. Headquartered in Pfäffikon, Switzerland, the Group perates its business in two divisions – Surface Solutions and Polymer Processing Solutions. It has a global footprint of more than 10,600 employees at 179 locations in 37 countries and generated sales of CHF 2.3 billion in 2020.

Corporate News

An Oerlikon Nonwoven meltblown system – here with integrated ecuTEC+ unit for electrostatically-charging the

About the Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions Division With its Oerlikon Barmag, Oerlikon Neumag and Oerlikon Nonwoven brands, the Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions Division is focusing on manmade fibers plant engineering and flow control equipment solutions. Oerlikon is one of the leading providers of manmade fiber filament spinning systems, texturing machines, BCF

systems, staple fiber systems and solutions for the production of nonwovens and – as a service provider – offers engineering solutions for the entire textile value added chain. Furthermore, Oerlikon has a high precision flow control components business that currently offers a large selection of gear metering pumps for the textile and other industries, including the automotive, chemical and paint markets.

As a future-oriented company, the research and development at this division of the Oerlikon Group is driven by energy-efficiency and sustainable technologies (e-save). With its range of polycondensation and extrusion systems and their key components, the company caters to the entire manufacturing process – from the monomer all the way through to the textured yarn and other innovative polymer processed materials and applications. The product portfolio is rounded off with automation and Industrie 4.0 solutions. The primary markets for the product portfolio of Oerlikon Barmag are in Asia, especially in China, India and Turkey, and – for those of Oerlikon Neumag and Oerlikon Nonwoven – in the USA, Asia, Turkey and Europe. Worldwide, the division – with more than 3,500 employees – has a presence in 120 countries with production, sales and distribution and service organizations. At the R&D centers in Remscheid, Neumünster (Germany) and Suzhou (China), highly qualified engineers, technologists and technicians develop innovative and technologically leading products for tomorrow’s world.

U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol adds global apparel leader, PVH Corp., and its iconic brands as Members The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol is pleased to announce the membership of PVH Corp., one of the largest global apparel companies. This membership will help PVH achieve its commitment to sustainably source 100% of its cotton by 2025. By joining the Trust Protocol, PVH will receive verified data on sustainability practices from U.S. cotton growers and access to aggregate year-over-year data for water use, greenhouse gas emissions, energy use, soil carbon, soil loss and land use efficiency. “Joining the Trust Protocol helps us move forward in reaching our sustainability goals and driving continuous improvements in sustainable cotton sourcing for our brands Marissa Pagnani, McGowan. and at scale for the industry,” said Marissa Pagnani McGowan, Chief Sustainability Officer, PVH Corp. “This program will enhance our ability to provide sustainable product offerings to our consumers.” “We are proud to welcome PVH as a new member and to help them meet their bold sustainability ambitions as established

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - September 2021

in their Corporate Responsibility strategy Forward Fashion,” said Dr. Gary Adams, president of the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol. “In a period of growing demand for verifiably sustainable supply, the Trust Protocol empowers U.S. growers to demonstrate their stewardship and be recognized for the environmental efforts they’ve increasingly undertaken.”

Dr. Gary Adams, President of U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol.

The Trust Protocol has welcomed more than 450 brand, retailer, mill and manufacturer members since its launch in 2020. This includes Levi Strauss & Co. and its legacy brands, Gap Inc. and its collection of purposeled lifestyle brands as well as global apparel manufacturer Gildan. The Trust Protocol has also welcomed UK retailers Tesco, Byford and Next Plc. Other Trust Protocol member announcements include the first 10 U.S. mills to join and the first members in Latin America. The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol is aligned with the UN Sustainable Development Goals, recognized by Textile Exchange and Forum for the Future, and part of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, Cotton 2025 Sustainable Cotton Challenge, Cotton 2040 and Cotton Up initiatives.

ANDRITZ to supply textile recycling system to Renewcell, Sweden

International technology Group ANDRITZ has received an order from Renewcell to supply textile recycling equipment to its greenfield recycling plant in Sundsvall, Sweden. Start-up of the plant is scheduled for the first half of 2022. Core elements of the new recycling system will be ANDRITZ ADuro shredders, which will shred used textiles in only one shredding step. With unique capabilities, the ADuro shredders cut the incoming material uniformly and cleanly while enabling a very high throughput. In the subsequent separation stages, contaminants like buttons and zippers will be removed from the shredded textiles. Renewcell uses this pre-treated material to produce a pure, natural dissolving pulp made from 100% recycled textiles. In addition, the scope of supply includes additional key pieces of equipment. With the state-of-the-art equipment from ANDRITZ, up to 60,000 tons of used textiles per year can be handled in the new recycling plant. Since 2016 Renewcell has cooperated with ANDRITZ to develop its process in its test plant in Kristinehamn, Sweden, convincing the company of the high performance and quality of ANDRITZ technology in processing challenging materials such as textiles. Renewcell, headquartered in Stockholm, Sweden, was founded in 2012 and is specialized in the recycling of textiles. The recycling technology employed by Renewcell dissolves used cotton and other cellulose fibers and transforms them into a new raw material, the so called Circulose® pulp, which is further used to make biodegradable virgin quality viscose or lyocell textile fibers for the fashion industry.

ANDRITZ GROUP International technology group ANDRITZ offers a broad portfolio of innovative plants, equipment, systems and services for the pulp and paper industry, the hydropower sector, the metals processing and forming industry, pumps, solid/liquid separation in the municipal and industrial sectors, as well as animal feed and biomass pelleting. Plants for power generation, flue gas cleaning, recycling, and the production of nonwovens and panelboard complete the global product and service offering. The publicly listed group has around 26,950 employees and more than 280 locations in over 40 countries.

Mill Report

One of the many BRÜCKNER stenters at ARIKAN

BRÜCKNER success in Turkey Quality, efficiency and good service The Turkish family-owned company ARIKAN Mensucat Industry and Trade Inc. was founded in 1993 and is located in Kahramanmaras, one of the southernmost cities of the country. In addition to the classic textile trade, ARIKAN was involved in yarn production in the early days and initially built a spinning mill. This was followed in 2008 by the construction of a knitting mill, and a few years later the dyeing and finishing divisions were added. In the Kahramanmaras region, ARIKAN is one of the oldest companies ever and has been developed into a solid and successful textile company. Today, the family-owned company employs around 1,500 people and finishes around 55 tons of knitwear every day. In addition to many wellknown Turkish fashion manufacturers, ARIKAN also supplies international manufacturers in Europe, Russia, the Gulf States and other leading international markets.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - September 2021

The German machinery manufacturer BRÜCKNER supported the Turkish company from the very beginning. From the foundation of the dyeing and finishing plant, BRÜCKNER supplied three stenters for the finishing of the highquality knitted fabric in 2014. Two more lines followed in 2016. For decades, BRÜCKNER has been the market leader for the finishing of knitted fabric. Especially for very fine and elastic fabric, special line configurations and technological know-how are necessary to be able to produce a highquality end product. During the drying and heat-setting process, for example, extremely accurate and uniform temperature distribution over the entire length and width of the dryer is essential. In the BRÜCKNER stenter this is achieved, among other things, by the alternating arrangement of the thermal zones every 1.5 meters and by the proven split-flow air system.

Besides these advantages, the machine operators at ARIKAN also appreciate the easy control of BRÜCKNER lines. The visualization is intuitively designed and offers many intelligent auxiliary systems for an optimized production process. Also the very good accessibility of the line for maintenance and cleaning is also a plus point. In addition, significant energy savings can be achieved with just a few changes to the machine parameters. Sophisticated software provides machine operators with valuable information for this purpose. With all these advantages, the decision for another BRÜCKNER stenter in 2019 was an easy one to make. The management at ARIKAN attaches great importance to energy saving, especially in the fabric finishing department. The drying process is one of the most energyintensive in the entire process chain, therefore the biggest savings can be made here. These have a direct impact on the manufacturing costs of the textiles

and thus on competitiveness in the market. In the meantime, talks are already in progress for another BRÜCKNER line which will include a very special feature: a combined heating system for the dryer. For many customers - and so also for ARIKAN in Turkey - e.g. steam energy is available free or very cheap. With the combined heating system developed by BRÜCKNER it is possible to use this steam energy for heating up the dryer and thus to achieve significant savings. If the available steam is not sufficient for a running process, it is automatically switched over to gas heating. This mode of operation does not only have an effect on the energy costs, but also makes a considerable contribution to environmental protection. BRÜCKNER has been offering combined heating systems for many years, depending on the customer's requirements and the available resources. Thanks to the development over many years of these combined systems and to a sophisticated software, the changeover to another energy source is nowadays carried out without any problems. During the last years a close friendship has developed between the companies ARIKAN and BRÜCKNER. The Turkish BRÜCKNER agency INTER TEKSTIL is always the link between the two family companies. Production manager Harun Bilginer is very satisfied: "The BRÜCKNER brand stands for quality, efficiency and innovation. What we also appreciate very much is the open exchange, the professional contact with customers and the good service. Of course, the representative in many countries also plays an important role. With INTER TEKSTIL BRÜCKNER is well represented in Turkey. We feel very well looked after, they simply take care. This is not a matter of course." Soon when the latest line has been put into operation, a total of seven BRÜCKNER stenters will produce highquality knitwear for the whole world at ARIKAN. 

Harun Bilginer, Production manager.

Mill Report

The comber E 90 achieves the highest level of productivity available on the market.

Rieter customer Norfil benefits from flexible production with Comber E90 Consistent quality thanks to reliable real-time information with Rieter Quality Monitor Rieter’s latest comber E 90 achieves the highest level of productivity available on the market. Together with the high raw material utilization and the economical energy consumption, this results in the lowest production costs per kilogram of combed sliver. In addition to these capabilities of the E 90, the Rieter customer Norfil was particularly impressed by the continuous monitoring of the sliver quality. This makes unpleasant surprises in the yarn a thing of the past. The comber E 90 produces up to 100 kilograms of combed sliver per hour. The high combing speed of 600 nips per minute, as well as the stable and faultfree running behavior of the machine, enable this highest standard of productivity (Fig. 1). In addition, the E 90 delivers all quality levels with high consistency: from yarns with low noil extraction to fine yarns in a class of their own.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - September 2021

High flexibility and consistent quality This flexibility was also an important aspect for Brazil based Norfil S.A. to invest in the comber E 90. Founded in 1989, Norfil is a family-owned business in the state of Paraiba, Brazil. Thanks to continuous investments in technology and automation, the company now produces 2400 tons of yarn per month. Using raw material from their own cotton plantation, Norfil manufactures high-quality yarn for the apparel industry, with combed cotton yarns as their main product. The company was looking for a comber that could not only deliver consistently high quality; it should also have the capability to produce different quality levels with high consistency. Their new comber E 90 meets these expectations. The operating unit is very easy to use, which enables Norfil to flexibly change the quality requirements. The new technology components

developed for the E 90 significantly reduce the noil extraction and lead to improved raw-material utilization.

Real-time information on sliver quality The whole production at Norfil takes place with total control over the sliver quality thanks to the Rieter Quality Monitor (RQM). This proven Rieter draw frame technology is now fully integrated in the comber E 90. A sensor continuously monitors the sliver quality produced by the comber and constantly delivers exact and reliable information regarding the current quality level. This allows deviations in sliver weight and sliver evenness to be detected early. As a result, unpleasant surprises in the yarn due to changed settings in the comber are a thing of the past at Norfil. Its owner, Fabio Borger, states: “The new comber E 90 takes many things off our hands so that we can concentrate on our priorities. This is mainly due to the Rieter

Mill Report Norfil was able to implement new ideas, resulting in a new combing process designed for their specific needs. The comber E 90 is the best solution for Norfil and they have already ordered the next batch of combers.

Fabio Borger, owner of Norfil, appreciates the reliable real-time information provided by the Rieter Quality Monitor.

About Rieter

Quality Monitor (RQM). It is easily adjustable, and we can trust the settings. The comber delivers the promised quality very consistently at a high productivity rate.”

Quick change of noil level Another requirement of Norfil for the new comber was the ability to quickly change the noil level. Using the E 90, they can quickly change from 14% to 24% – this extends their working range and saves raw material. The company can now produce sliver with a low noil level of 14% with maximum consistency for Ne 30 at a rate of 550 nips/min – with enough headroom to easily accelerate to 600 nips/min if needed (Graph). Thanks to the huge noil savings with the E 90, Norfil also managed to cut costs while maintaining quality. Rieter has developed new technology components for the E 90 that significantly increase the range of applications of the top comb and circular comb. With this new development, it is possible to reduce the noil extraction amount by 3%,

without the need to change the settings of the top comb and circular comb. As a result, raw material utilization is improved significantly with low noil extraction. Maximum output remains consistent even when producing high-quality yarns. Norfil is very satisfied with the ongoing support from Rieter technicians throughout the E 90 installation project. In cooperation with Rieter technologists,

Rieter is the world’s leading supplier of systems for shortstaple fiber spinning. Based in Winterthur (Switzerland), the company develops and manufactures machinery, systems and components used to convert natural and man-made fibers and their blends into yarns. Rieter is the only supplier worldwide to cover both spinning preparation processes and all four end-spinning processes currently established on the market. Furthermore, Rieter is a leader in the field of precision winding machines. With 15 manufacturing locations in 10 countries, the company employs a global workforce of some 4420, about 21% of whom are based in Switzerland. Rieter is listed on the SIX Swiss Exchange under ticker symbol RIEN.

The comber E 90 delivers consistent CV-values at a lower noil level compared to the former model E 62 and E 66.

Ralf Helbig, R&D Engineer for Air Technology (left) and Christian Freitag, Head of Air Technology at Trützschler. (right).

Sustainable and intelligent: The TC 19i sets the benchmark for energy-efficient carding Global energy consumption reached a record high in 2019, following a 40-year trend for rapidly increasing energy demand that was only halted by the Coronavirus pandemic.1 It’s estimated that more than 80% of this energy is still generated from fossil fuels that produce CO2 emissions and contribute to climate change.2 Renewable energy offers a solution to this problem, but saving energy whenever possible is an even more effective approach. That’s why Trützschler has developed the intelligent card TC 19i, which sets a new benchmark for energy-efficient carding. 30

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - September 2021

Only the intelligent Trützschler card TC 19i features the unique T-GO gap optimizer, which continuously and automatically monitors and adjusts the carding gap to an ideal position during production. By now, more than 2000 intelligent cards sold worldwide prove quality and production leaps in the double-digit percentage range daily, thereby reducing energy demand per kilogram produced.3 Innovative driveand air technology further reduce energy consumption of the TC 19i. In this way, the TC 19i saves energy to help protect the planet – and also boosts profitability for yarn production.

The most energy-intensive elements in a carding machine are the drive, the dust suction process and the compressed air system. Permanent suction is needed to remove dust and cotton waste in key places. In contrast to Trützschler cards, many cards on the market also use compressed air for suction hoods in the pre-carding and post-carding areas, for example. Smart optimization of these areas has made the intelligent card TC 19i a benchmark for energy efficiency in carding because it uses less electricity, lower suction pressure and less compressed air than other machines, while providing the highest production rates currently available on the market.

Special Report In a head-to-head comparison between the TC 19i and a highperformance card from a competitor, the TC 19i consumed at least 10% less energy per kilogram of material produced when manufacturing rotor yarn from a cotton and cotton waste mix. The compared energy values included electric power consumption and energy required for suction and compressed air and were measured in both cards at the same production of 180 kg/h. A 10% reduction in energy per kilogram of sliver produced, as proven here by TC 19i, can have a significant impact on a spinning mill’s profitability; annual savings worth a five-digit sum are frequently possible, depending on factors such as the output of the mill. The customer trial also showed TC 19i’s excellent reliability at the customer’s usual production rate of 180 kg/h, and even demonstrated stable performance at 300 kg/h in the same application. Because the TC 19i with TGO gap optimizer realizes maximum production rates at no compromise in quality, manufacturers can reduce their energy demand and investment costs

drastically: Less machines are needed to achieve the desired output, and energy consumption per production is reduced.

Energy-efficient air technology Next to increased productivity, air technology plays a pivotal role in the energy balance of the TC 19i. Christian Freitag, Head of Air Technology at Trützschler, explains how he optimized the TC 19i in this area: “First, we reduced the need for compressed air wherever possible,” he says. “And second, we reduced suction pressure and air requirements for suction. All of our air collectors, for example, are carefully developed to eliminate potential resistance and facilitate an ideal flow.” This improvement was made possible by a long and sometimes challenging innovation process involving mathematical models of air flows, as well as flow simulations and prototypes. By combining the final flow optimized parts in the TC 19i, Trützschler’s experts have developed a card that operates with suction pressure of just -740 Pa and with an air requirement of only 4200 m³/h.

This translates into 40% less energy demand for air technology compared to the latest high-performance competitor model. “These achievements are fantastic – but we didn’t stop there,” says Ralf Helbig, R&D Engineer for Air Technology at Trützschler. “We have also made it possible to further reduce energy demand in polyester applications, which are increasingly important to our customers. In a polyester configuration, the TC 19i can reduce the necessary pressure for waste suction by a further 14% because of improvements to elements in the precarding and post-carding areas, and the removal of suction hoods. The suction is still just as reliable – but it needs much less energy.”

Good for the environment – and for the balance sheet With its unique gap optimizer T-GO, its state-of-the-art drives and optimized air technology, the intelligent card TC 19i is leading the market for energy-efficient carding. No other card can match its stable performance at such high levels of

Sets the benchmark for energy-efficient carding: the intelligent 19i

Special Report

Numerous trials and simulations are needed for air flow modeling.

productivity, or its consistent quality and energy efficiency. As a result, the TC 19i makes a valuable contribution to global

About Trützschler

into the business units Spinning, Nonwovens, Man-Made Fibers and Card

The Trützschler Group is a German textile machinery manufacturer

Clothing. Machines, installations and accessories for spinning preparation, the

sustainability – and makes mills even

headquartered in Mönchengladbach,

nonwovens and man-made fiber industry

more profitable too.

Germany. The family business is divided

are produced in nine locations worldwide. In addition to four factories in Germany (Mönchengladbach, Dülmen, Egelsbach, Neubulach), Trützschler has production sites in China (Shanghai, Jiaxing), India (Ahmedabad), USA (Charlotte) and Brazil (Curitiba) as well as a development location in Switzerland (Winterthur). Service companies in Turkey, Mexico and Uzbekistan as well as service bases in Bangladesh, Vietnam, Indonesia and Pakistan ensure customer proximity in other important textile processing markets.

References 1

2 3

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - September 2021

https://www.statista.com/statistics/265598/consumption-of-primary-energy-worldwide/. https://ourworldindata.org/energy mix. Increased production leads to higher power consumption per hour. The increase in output outweighs this factor so that power consumption per kilogram of card sliver produced is lower. 

Features

SSM offers proper tool for the competitive DTY Market The SSM single-position machine concept for various applications Falsetwist texturing is a costcompetitive sector of the textile industry. A winning strategy in this area is to produce specialty yarns with added value. With the launch of the new false-twist texturing machine DP5-FT, SSM is offering the right tool for this specialties market. Polyester DTY (Drawn Textured Yarn) was first produced in the 1960s and has since become a commodity yarn. However, over time, polyester yarns have evolved to be used in a variety of specialty yarns, ranging from coarse denier per filament (dpf) to microfilament and even super-micro-filament yarns. These yarns can be used to produce fabrics with a very soft touch and a light weight. Filaments with different crosssectional shapes improve perspiration evaporation or provide the fabric with a distinctive luster. Another specialty is achieved by encapsulating functional chemicals directly into the polymer to create fabrics with additional characteristics such as anti-bacterial properties to eliminate odors or using infrared body emissions to increase body temperature. Furthermore, an increase in dope dyed POY (Partially Oriented Yarn) brings advantages for color fastness and in terms of environmental friendliness, as no subsequent dyeing is required. All these specialties are the new standard in DTY and bring new challenges for texturizers, e.g., the need for more flexibility in production, as more specialties mean more but smaller lots to be produced. Thanks to the DP5-T, SSM is already in a strong leading position in the airtexturing market; now it is solidifying this position by launching the most flexible false-twist texturing machine, the DP5-FT (Fig. 1).

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - September 2021

Fig.1: SSM's false twist-texturing machine DP5-FT.

A single-position machine concept for full flexibility An entire DP5-FT machine with 40 positions can be set up with up to 40 different recipes. Every position is almost a standalone false twist (FT) machine with its own heater, control board and is furthermore equipped with individually driven, programmable motors. Several draw ratios and temperatures can be adjusted between different positions to achieve the best possible result for every color shade of a dope dyed POY – an advantage that sets the machine apart from others in the market. There is no need to invest in an equivalent laboratory machine. Customers can simply dedicate one or multiple positions of the DP5-FT to trials and sampling. The position(s) can be reassigned back to normal production later to maximize efficiency and reduce sampling costs. The individual position concept also brings advantages in terms of power consumption and production efficiency. Unlike shaft machines, the power consumption of a position is reduced when it is not in use, as all affected motors are stopped. Moreover, a powersaving function can be activated after a certain amount of idle time has elapsed to reduce the temperature of the heater and godet – maximizing the potential savings.

On a running shaft machine, it is also common to find positions without yarn, because a wrap after a yarn break cannot safely be removed while running, or because a faulty position is awaiting the next machine stop. There are no such limitations with an individual position machine concept because each position can be stopped individually and serviced immediately, resulting in higher machine efficiency. Further savings can be made by lowering the heat-setting godet’s temperature without altering the machine efficiency, as the SSM induction-heated godets recover their set temperature in a very short time. Last but not least, the DP5-FT is the first choice for manufacturers whose top priority is personal safety, as the individual position concept allows the use of much smaller motors, limiting the risk of severe injuries to operators.

Impressive reduction of waste during doffing Developing specific software features enables the yarn delivery speed to be reduced during doffing, which in turn significantly reduces yarn waste – a unique benefit compared to shaft machines that use the same motor for all positions and varying doffing times. The higher the yarn count, the higher the savings. Reducing the doffing waste

Feature by up to 73% for a 1200 den (4 times 300 den) yarn (Fig. 2), corresponds to an impressive reduction of waste of more than 5 tons per year. With a price of 1.3 USD/kg for polyester POY, this feature allows savings of up to 6500 USD per year on raw materials for a machine with 40 positions.

Flexibility to increase production capacity The high flexibility of the DP5-FT is reflected in the minimum available number of five positions only, making it the perfect solution for customers entering the DTY business. It enables full flexibility in terms of lot sizes, types and counts of DTY yarns as well as better control of the supply chain. If a customer later wants to increase the DTY production capacity, the machine can be extended to include up to 40 positions without changing the head stock and using the same machine terminal.

A substantial cost reduction The optional elastane feeder is another asset of the DP5-FT. It allows a single-step production of air covered yarns, which consist of DTY and elastane that are combined using an airjet. SSM comparative tests proved that a higher quality of air covering is achieved if both the texturing and air-covering processes are combined in one single step. Freshly produced DTY features higher elasticity and thus allows optimum relaxation in the air-jet for superior covering quality – compared to a conventional two-step process where DTY is air covered on a dedicated machine. Reducing the air-jet pressure from four to three bar does not just lead to superior yarn quality – it also reduces costs. In numbers, it means a substantial cost reduction of more than 4000 USD annually for a 40-position machine operating for 8000 hours. The DP5-FT is supplied in a double density version with two spindles per position as standard to produce 2-ply yarns at the highest level of efficiency. Optionally, up to four spindles per position can be installed to produce 4-ply yarns without losing productivity, as all take-up is used in this configuration. Carpet yarn producers highly appreciate this setup, as it enables them to produce 1 200 denier (4 times 300 den) balanced

yarns (2 S twists + 2 Z twists) in one single step and thus maximizes their productivity. The DP5-FT can also be equipped with a second drawing roller for producing plied yarns using various materials. For example, polyester/polyamide can be used Fig. 2: Waste saving with polyester. simultaneously on the same position, machine, enabling full control and as both materials can be drawn inspection of the entire yarn path at any independently at different levels. This time without stopping the machine. option means trendy DTY yarns can be Instead of using a tube heater with a produced, e.g. two-tone yarns made of predefined length, using a godet also the same material but drawn at different allows operators to influence the duration levels, resulting in differing dye of the heat setting process by increasing absorption to get special color effects. or decreasing the number of wraps These types of yarn are in high demand around the godets. from the fashion industry. With this modern machine concept, Full control and inspection without SSM offers texturizers a proper tool to stopping the machine A unique feature of stay at the forefront of the competitive SSM texturing machines is the heated DTY specialty market. godet (Fig. 3) to heat-set the DTY yarn and achieve the required elasticity. This is state-ofthe-art in the production of polyester DTY yarns. Due to their length, tube heaters on competitors’ machines are installed at the rear of the machine or underneath the catwalk. Therefore, operators can’t inspect them during production or remove the internal tube periodically for cleaning. On SSM texturing machines, the heat-setting godet is located at the front of the Fig. 3: Heated godets DP5-FT.

Features

YARNMASTER® PRISMA RGB full-color monitoring RGB foreign matter detection is the new benchmark for spinners when managing contamination control precisely to individual requirements. The YarnMaster PRISMA F-sensor illuminates the yarn in the full spectrum of light using the additive RGB color model. This absolutely unique technology for yarn quality control which uses the three primary colors red, green and blue, adding wavelength for wavelength to enable world unique full-color monitoring. This unparalleled full color functionality heralds in a new era of foreign matter detection. Enabling unprecedented reliability in the detection of foreign matter – in all colors – even delicate shades and whatever the glossiness differences, in any type of yarn, or indeed in any color and mixtures thereof! Beyond that, the RGB technology allows a new color-based determination of organic materials within the yarn to separate them from regular disturbing foreign matter. These organic materials, in particular, do not necessarily have to be removed from the yarn during the winding process, as they are eliminated in subsequent processes anyway. Important factors such as these are taken into account by YarnMaster PRISMA and given the highest priority.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - September 2021

This is because the precise detection and classification of a disturbing or nondisturbing defect leads directly to a lower cut rate, which immediately results in higher efficiency and waste reduction. This is an absolute MUST for the efficient and effective performance of a spinning mill. The YarnMaster PRISMA yarn clearer system is the right choice for every spinning mill. Starting in basic yarn clearing where already a massive increase in efficiency - while keeping the chosen quality - can be achieved. Going further, through all quality levels up to the absolute super-yarn that is free from defects which could not even be seen by the human eye. In summary, the YarnMaster PRISMA enables the spinner to reliably guide the yarn quality control completely according to his needs while balancing its efficiency and quality. This aligns fully to meet Loepfe’s ultimate goal - ‘we want YOU to perform’. 30 years ago, in 1991, Loepfe took a pioneering role in the introduction of foreign matter detection based on the SIRO yarn clearing principle. The degree of raw material contamination has not improved since then. The ability to control the contamination in yarns is

therefore still of greatest importance to spinners. With YarnMaster PRISMA, Loepfe once again assumes the leading role and elevates yarn clearing to a new level - providing maximum reliability in foreign matter detection.

OPEN UP NEW WORLDS - THE YARNMASTER® PRISMA GENERATION! This next-generation yarn clearer system focuses entirely on the spinners’ needs. The foursensor technology guarantees the four key benefits Productivity, Profitability, Versatility and Reliability - at all times. YarnMaster PRISMA represents the new benchmark that opens up new worlds where efficiency and quality are in balance, yarn waste and energy are reduced, one device covers all challenges and Swiss-made quality is the standard.

Get ready to dive into new worlds  Productivity: Balanced efficiency and

quality.  Profitability: yarn waste and energy  

reduction. Versatility: No limits in material, color, climate, yarn count. Reliability: Swiss-made and first-class service. 

Dyes and Chemicals

Archroma introduces the ‘Safe Edge’ online regulatory & compliance platform Instant access to ecotoxicological and regulatory information and certificates for Archroma specialty chemical products Faster decision-making and time-to-market for manufacturers, brands and retailers in the textile, paper, packaging, paint, and construction industries. Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, recently announced the launch of The Safe Edge, an online platform for instant access to product related regulatory & compliance certificates and information. With continuously growing public awareness around the social, health and ecological impacts of human and business activities, the need for transparency and traceability in supply chains has become essential. Time to market is equally critical, and manufacturers, brands and retailers need access to reliable information in real time. The Safe Edge platform has been designed with that in mind: It allows brands, retailers and manufacturers of textile, fashion, packaging, paper, paints, to verify with just a few clicks the regulatory & compliance status of Archroma products, including regulations, eco-toxicological information & certifications, and brand requirements. The Safe Edge covers standards, regulations and information such as air emission factors, animal origin, halal, kosher, plant origin, food contact, Blue Angel, Bluesign®, Cradle-to-Cradle, chemical inventories, Composability EN 13432, conflict minerals, EU Flower/Ecolabel, GOTS, CONEG, ISEGA, Nordic Swan, Oekotex® Standard 100, California Prop 65, REACH, RoHS (Restriction of Hazardous Substance), Screened Chemistry, SDS, SVHC (Substance of Very High Concern), VOC (US), ZDHC (Zero Discharge Hazardous Chemicals), and brand standards (like Coats A&F MRSL, Decathlon RSL 2020, Jack Wolfskin RSL and The List IV by Inditex.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - September 2021

Screen capture of the Archroma ‘Safe Edge’, an online platform for instant access to product related regulatory & compliance certificates and information.

With the launch of The Safe Edge, Archroma continues to assert its leading role in driving sustainability in its industries, in line with its commitment to the principles of “The Archroma Way to a Sustainable World: safe, efficient, enhanced, it’s our nature”. The “Safe” principle in particular is at the core of the Archroma approach to sustainability, with the deeply rooted goal to protect people and the planet with products that are safe to use, and safe to wear. The Safe Edge is already accessible for manufacturers, brands and retailers in

Europe and Asia, and will be launched in North America in September 2021, and in Latin America by the end of the year. "We wanted to offer a step change improvement in our service to all our customers and partners comments Carole Mislin, Global Head of Product Stewardship at Archroma, who is at the initiative of the project. "Time is of the essence, and The Safe Edge offers them instant online access to up-to-date regulatory and eco-toxicological information and certificates. Because it's our nature!.

Personalia

New CEO at SANITIZED AG: Michael Lüthi to assume leadership of the SANITIZED AG company group Michael Lüthi, a member of the founding family, became the CEO of the SANITIZED company group on August 1, 2021. He has taken over the position from Urs Stalder, who will join the administrative board after working for the company for over 30 years. Michael Lüthi will assume leadership of a company that, for starters, has a legacy marked by over 80 years’ expertise and industry acclaim thanks to its innovative, safe, and reliable products. The additives that SANITIZED develops and markets deliver odor-free textiles, long-lasting hygiene function, protects the material of artificial surfaces, and prevents paints and coatings from degrading in quality due to impurities. Moreover, Sanitized® is a globally respected and established brand. Around 520 companies actively use the Sanitized® ingredient brand in their final products. Longtime CEO Urs Stalder consistently promoted the brand. Furthermore, he managed to internationalize the company, establish subsidiaries in the U.S., China and India, and focus on innovative products. The Swiss Innovation Award that the company won under his leadership is a testament to these accomplishments. Michael Lüthi, a member of the founding family, will now assume the leadership position. The 38-year-old business economist has been working for SANITIZED since 2018. Over the past three years, Michael Lüthi has helped to shape the course of the company. “We will continue to combine tradition and innovation: SANITIZED is a fourth-generation Swiss family company, and we will continue to expand our leadership position in the world with our safe and innovative products and services for the textile, polymer, and paint industries,” explains the new SANITIZED

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - September 2021

Handover from Urs Stalder to Michael Lüthi. (Photo: SANITIZED AG)

CEO Michael Lüthi. American company Consolidated Pathways was recently acquired with this objective in mind. SANITIZED now has a presence with its own subsidiaries in the U.S., China, the European Union, and India. Their all-inclusive services for technology guidance, marketing support, and regulatory matters make SANITIZED AG stand out from its competitors around the world. “Adding value since 1935” is the company's guiding motto for not only developing innovative products but also giving textiles, polymer products, paints, and coatings modern, useful, and marketable added value.

Sanitized® adding value since 1935 Sanitized® enhances textiles, polymer products as well as paints and coatings. The company develops its innovative technologies in Switzerland and markets them worldwide. Sanitized® ensures odorfree textiles, the responsible protection of paints and permanently treats polymers with a hygiene function and material protection.The all-embracing service for customers is unique: Standardized tests in the TecCenter, technical and regulatory advice, marketing support. Manufacturers and consumers have relied on the globally trusted Sanitized® brand for decades. It enables differentiation in the market and creates tangible added value for customers.

Fairs and Exhibitions

Intex South Asia International Business Matching week Intex South Asia International Business Matching Week is being held from 1519 November 2021 on Bee2Bee (www.bee2bee.asia), showcasing international manufacturers and suppliers of fibers, yarns, apparel and denim fabrics, clothing accessories and allied services. As one of the biggest and most established international textile sourcing show of South Asia having completed seven successful editions in Sri Lanka and Bangladesh and connecting over 1,000 global textile suppliers with 25,000+ leading buyers from 30 countries and regions, Intex South Asia’s virtual fair serves as a one-stop online sourcing platform to help global manufacturers connect to discerning buyers in South Asia and other international economies and enable business opportunities across the textile & apparel industry. Rajesh Bhagat, MD, Worldex India and organiser says, “The pandemic has changed business and sourcing patterns thus increasing demand for genuine online business matching services to

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connect suppliers with buyers and viceversa. Intex South Asia has taken a proactive approach to create newer and stronger business opportunities through the Bee2Bee virtual business platform.” International Textile Suppliers from 15 Countries & More Bee2Bee is a smart and user-friendly virtual trade fair and business matchmaking platform which has already successfully arranged 4000+ B2B meetings for 1200+ exhibitors and 10000+ buyers from 15 countries & regions till date. With participation from India, Bangladesh, China, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Thailand, Korea, Turkey, Pakistan, Vietnam, UK and Spain - the Virtual International Business Matching Week will fulfil growing demand for innovative & trendy fabrics & accessories for one of the largest apparel manufacturing region in the world. With multiple pavilions being organised by trade bodies including FIEO and SRTEPC, the Intex South Asia International Business Matching Week is

shaping up to be a tremendously dynamic and vibrant event. Interactive Business Forum Series This international platform is endorsed by the KOTRA Colombo, Taiwan Textile Federation (TTF), Malaysia Knitting Manufacturers Association (MKMA), Thailand Textile Institute (THTI), TEXMAS - Textile Merchants Group, Joint Apparel Association Forum (JAAF), Sri Lanka Apparel Exporters Association (SLAEA), Sri Lanka Apparel Brands Association (SLABA), Pakistan Readymade Garments Manufacturers and Exporters Association (PRGMEA), Pakistan Knitwear & Sweater Exporters Association (PAKSEA), Bangladesh Garment Buying House Association (BGBA), Federation of Indian Export Organisations (FIEO), The Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI), Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI), Tirupur Exporters Association (TEA), The Textile Association (India), Synthetic & Rayon Textiles Export Promotion Council (SRTEPC) and many more.

Fairs and Exhibitions

Fespa Brings the Colour Back FESPA Global Print Expo provides exhibitors with an effective tool to reach new customers and develop international opportunities. It is a unique event where exhibitors can meet key decision makers, print service providers, brand managers and designers. FESPA Global Print Expo 2021 is Europe’s largest international speciality print exhibition. The event will be open from the 12th - 15th October 2021 at the aRAI Exhibition Centre in Amsterdam. Hundreds of exhibitors will showcase their latest innovations and product launches for the digital and screen printing sectors for graphics, signage, décor, packaging, industrial and textile applications. Visitors to Amsterdam can attend to share knowledge, explore new trends, invest in new machinery or consumables, and discover the different applications bringing colour to life! Global Print Expo will be co-located with European Signage Expo. FESPA has been organising market specific events since 1963 and has grown its portfolio to serve regional and international print and signage professionals across the world. At its events, participating suppliers have the chance to meet with a focused, quality audience of senior decision-makers, and attendees have the unique chance to explore the latest product innovations live in action from leading providers.

Connecting Through Fespa ESPA can connect you to a variety of senior print professionals looking for products and services that will help them increase productivity, reduce costs, attract

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - September 2021

more customers, improve the customer experience, enhance security and sell more. FESPA Global Print Expo is Europe's only dedicated trade fair for the various sectors of the specialty print industry including: screen printing, digital imaging, textile printing and decoration, interior decoration, packaging, and industrial printing, with some 600 global exhibitor brands to meet and all the latest technology innovations to explore. As an exhibitor, you will receive access to the online Exhibitor Manual providing you with downloadable promotional material, including event website banners, event logos, ability to create visitor invitations, implement tips and techniques for your marketing campaign, view press information and much more. Through the Exhibitor Showroom you can also upload your company videos, press releases, news articles and details of your new product launches.

Printeriors Now in its 5th year, Printeriors 2021 brings together the world's print community in a celebration of interior design and decoration. Each and every product on display is bespoke and created utilizing multiple technologies in partnership with the print community for FESPA Global Print Expo. Join designers, printers, and manufacturers from all over Europe in discovering the innovative print applications and technology open to the printed interior design market.

The World Wrap Masters The World Wrap Masters Europe 2021 will take place 12th - 15th October 2021 at the Global Print Expo 2021 at the

Rai exhibition centre in Amsterdam, The Netherlands. The competition will feature training workshops, demonstrations and the competition. The competition schedule will be made available soon. Visitors will discover the latest vinyls, films and print and cut machinery at the FESPA Global Print Expo 2021 exhibition that runs alongside this event. This event is an official qualifying event for the World Wrap Masters Series. The winner of this event will qualify to compete in the World Wrap Masters Final 2022.

European Sign Expo What an incredible start to European Sign Expo 2021! The RAI, Amsterdam has already welcomed thousands of professionals after a long 18 months, ‘bringing colour back’ to the industry. The aisles are buzzing with visitors eager be a part of the latest innovations and witness inspiring new technology, tools, and software. European Sign Expo exhibitors will be showcasing the very latest in signage; channel lettering, LED’s, illuminated displays, engraving, and etching, out-of-home media, sign tools and much more. While the show didn’t have all the scale of a pre-COVID FESPA Global Print Expo, due to continued travel restrictions from outside mainland Europe, what they achieved with this first international ‘recovery’ event was to kick-start of the community, give fresh impetus to business owners and spark valuable face-toface conversations for worldwide exhibitors.

Fairs and Exhibitions

EFI Reggiani Terra Silver debuts at FESPA 2021 The new, industrial, entry-level Reggiani Terra Silver textile printer from Electronics For Imaging (EFI) has debuted at the ongoing FESPA Global Print Expo 2021 in Amsterdam. The EFI Reggiani Terra Silver uses unique Terra pigment ink for high-quality, highly sustainable direct-to-textile printing without steaming or washing for a short, smart and green process. “This is one of the first trade shows to return after the pandemic, and we are very excited to again meet customers in person and showcase an innovative offering that delivers superior printing results while using less time, water and energy,” said EFI Reggiani vice president and general manager Adele Genoni. “We are introducing this advanced EFI Reggiani Terra Silver solution to the many print service providers at FESPA, presenting them with an ideal path to enter the industrial textile segment with a short, smart and green production process.” The new-version Terra Silver printer is part of EFI’s complete Terra line-up of pigment ink printer solutions. It is a 180cm wide printer that can print up to 190

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - September 2021

sqm per hour with eight dual-channel print heads. The printer also features a new recirculating ink system for superior reliability and minimum maintenance, several printing modes to ensure maximum flexibility in terms of design capability, new, real-time image processing that eliminates time spent in image pre-calculations, a user-friendly, intuitive interface and a more-efficient polymerisation process that takes place as printed textile goes through the printer’s on-board dryer, the company release said. In FESPA stand 1-G71, attendees can see the EFI Reggiani Terra Silver print smoothly and precisely on knitted and woven fabrics. The printer’s quality is evident in its high-uniformity printing modes, and it delivers numerous features that enhance the production process, including an accurate WYSIWYG interface and flexible queue management. EFI Reggiani is also a leading developer of textile inks. The EFI Reggiani Terra pigment inks used on the Silver model deliver excellent wet and dry fastness properties and remarkable sharpness in detail. Designed to leverage EFI Reggiani digital printers’ market-proven industrial performance capabilities, these ecofriendly, water-based inks provide an extraordinary level of print durability and

yield longer print head life with reduced maintenance costs. The high-performance digital pigment inks also use an innovative binder technology for fast, sustainable, and costcompetitive industrial textile printing on the widest range of fabrics. This year, EFI Reggiani celebrates 75 years of heritage and innovation in the textile world. Always committed to deliver to the market new cutting-edge technologies, EFI Reggiani has world-class products offering boosted uptime and reliability, high performance throughput, and remarkable printing uniformity and accuracy – all while helping customers increase the sustainability of their textile manufacturing activities. Green EFI Reggiani processes give users fast, complete and sustainable solutions across a broad range of textile applications. In this 75th anniversary year, EFI Reggiani has also launched several other ground-breaking solutions, such as EFI Reggiani Hyper, the fastest scanning digital printer on the market, and the EFI Reggiani Blaze, an industrial entry-level, easy-to-use printer designed to give new textile companies the opportunity to adopt digital inkjet production with a compact solution to blaze a successful path into the industry. 

Fairs and Exhibitions

As FESPA 2021 will take place ‘on home soil’ for Mimaki Europe, visitors will have the unique opportunity to visit the company’s Amsterdam Experience Centre and tour the entire 3D and textile portfolio.

It’s Time to Experience Print – Mimaki to Bring New Innovations and Application Opportunities to FESPA 2021  Mimaki’s latest cutting-edge technologies for sign, 3D and textile industries to make trade show debut  Customer innovation to be central to Mimaki’s FESPA presence with immersive customer and partner application gallery

Amsterdam, September 16th, 2021 Mimaki Europe, the leading manufacturer of inkjet printers and cutting systems, will showcase its broad portfolio of market-leading, profitgenerating digital print technologies at FESPA Global Print Expo 2021 (12-15 October 2021, RAI Amsterdam, The Netherlands, Stand: 1-F45). Taking full advantage of the first in-person FESPA event since the COVID-19 pandemic, the company will premiere live demonstrations of its most recently announced innovations, while also inspiring visitors with outstanding applications produced by customers. As

FESPA 2021 will take place ‘on home soil’ for Mimaki Europe, visitors will also have the unique opportunity to visit its Amsterdam Experience Centre and tour Mimaki’s entire 3D and textile portfolio with one-to-one demonstrations from Mimaki’s expert team. Proudly announcing that “the real print experience is back”, Mimaki is committed to bringing the print community back together with all possible COVID-safety measures in place. On the stand, customers can immerse themselves in technology from Mimaki’s latest product portfolio, including brandnew releases such as the high-volume UV flatbed printer, the JFX600-2513, the high-speed, high-quality UJF Series printers, and the full-colour desktop 3D printer, the 3DUJ-2207. Mimaki will also celebrate its customers and partners in an interactive exhibit of success stories and

application examples from its print ambassadors. “We are thrilled to invite customers to join us in-person at FESPA this year. As well as being packed with cutting-edge technologies, inspiring customer stories and plenty of buzz and excitement, the show, and our booth, will be a safe and COVID-compliant set-up. We have done everything to ensure visitors can enjoy the event safely, such as integrating additional online content to avoid unnecessary crowding and physical contact.” Danna Drion, General Manager Marketing, from Mimaki Europe explains. “FESPA 2021 is the optimal chance for the industry to join forces and reinvigorate business with new technologies and applications. For such a visual and vibrant industry to have been apart for so long, this year will be centered around the full print experience,

Fairs and Exhibitions

Mimaki will showcase its advanced JFX600-2513 LED-UV large-format flatbed inkjet printer at an in-person show for the first time at FESPA Global Print Expo 2021

something you can only truly enjoy inperson. As such, our theme is “Experience Print”, and what better place to do it for the first time in almost 2 years than at FESPA!” With so many ground-breaking technologies yet to be seen at a physical event, the Mimaki stand is sure to be an extraordinary experience. The JFX6002513 LED-UV large-format flatbed inkjet printer, designed to address the highvolume UV market, will be among the new solutions to have its trade show debut this FESPA. Engineered for high speeds and high productivity, the new model offers print service providers a broader variety of applications thanks to a wider range of ink types and increased media flexibility. Announced just this month, the UJF7151 plusII and the UJF-MkII e Series will also take centre stage on the Mimaki stand. Designed for seamless and reliable high-speed production, the UJF-7151 plusII allows for faster print speeds of up to 190% compared to the previous UJF7151 plus model. The printer is capable of handling high-quality print jigs and ideal for accurate industrial printing of heavy media, such as wood, metal, and glass. Representative of Mimaki’s varied portfolio and yet another brand-new product, the Mimaki 3DUJ-2207 will also make its debut. This easily scalable, desktop 3D solution is designed to open the full colour, 3D printing door to those who previously felt the benefits of 3D printing were out of reach.

PAKISTAN TEXTILE JOURNAL - September 2021

Visitors are also sure to savour the chance to finally see Mimaki’s renowned “100 Series” in action. Launched during the height of the pandemic as costeffective, business-enhancing solutions, these printers are designed to meet current market challenges and enable users to drive success despite market uncertainty. With high productivity and reliability, as well as extreme flexibility to

diversify an application range, these highly competitive price-performance printers have already been added to print operations in all sectors. Don’t miss out on this unprecedented opportunity to reconnect with Mimaki and the wider industry, register for free entry to FESPA 2021 or express your interest in touring the Amsterdam Experience Centre here: 

Announced just this month, the UJF7151 plusII is designed for seamless and reliable high-speed production and is also set to take the spotlight at FESPA.

An opportunity to meet with customers and suppliers of nonwovens under one roof Index is one of the world´s leading nonwovens exhibitions and the place where nonwovens producers, converters, raw materials suppliers and machinery manufacturers meet to show their latest advances and to learn what’s happening in their own industry and parallel fields throughout the world. High-level professionals from both technical and non-technical applications convene to find out how nonwovens can contribute to their company’s growth. Index will be accompanied by a range of events, enabling participants to experience the industry’s dynamism first-hand, and to exchange information and network with like-minded professionals. Since the beginning of the global pandemic, the desire to provide the nonwovens community with an outstanding industry showcase, whilst ensuring the best possible health protection and safety to a broad

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international audience, has been of paramount concern to the INDEX™ Organisers. Due to on-going travel restrictions and unforeseen delays in vaccination programmes, the Organisers are forced to recognise that the lifting of the Swiss federal governmental restrictions regarding sizeable gatherings of people and a consequent return to normal business, may take a little longer than anticipated. From October 19 to 22 2021, Palexpo welcomes INDEX20, the world's leading trade show for nonwoven materials. This exhibition is a showcase for the latest advances in the development of nonwoven materials. The diversity and versatility of nonwovens offers countless prospects for all sectors of the industry with tailor-made, low-cost solutions that meet the very diverse expectations of users.

INDEX20, the world’s largest nonwovens exhibition, held in Geneva, closed a resounding success, featuring over 500 exhibitors on more than 45,000 square meters of exhibition space. “With over 9300 visitor entries over the four days, and an overwhelming sentiment among exhibitors of an unexpected attendance and quality of key decision-makers from across the globe, we are told by all those we have met that this is undoubtedly a resounding success under the circumstances” says Pierre Wiertz, general manager of EDANA. Following a record year for nonwovens production in Greater Europe, with a growth of 7.2% in 2020 to reach 3,075,615 tons (largely due to the highest ever demand for materials intensively used to fight the pandemic) this was the first opportunity in four years

for the community of professionals from across the whole supply chain to meet in person. The visitors count is even more remarkable considering that over a thousand further professionals joined the on-line version of INDEX™, as the show was presented for the first time ever in a hybrid format, allowing exhibitors to march their live with virtual stands featuring their products and services. The virtual platform will stay accessible until 15 November to allow all on-site and virtual participants to watch the content from the six sector seminars (Sustainability, Filtration, Geosynthetics, Transportation, Smart Nonwovens and Infection Prevention) as well as the content provided by all the exhibitors. “We are delighted to note that this “augmented reality” offer was so well received, and since the Swapcard platform which supported this will continue to be accessible to the 2500 pre-registered delegates for several weeks, as well as any other new visitors, we expect that those who missed the numerous side events such as the six sector seminars, or wish to prolong their contacts with exhibitors, will continue to benefit from INDEX in an innovative way” says Magali Fakhry Dufresne, INDEX™ Exhibition Director, PALEXPO. “Our business contacts at INDEX are usually all about long-term relationships

and contracts, with additional new opportunities a plus; for this edition it has been first and foremost a matter of once again meeting business partners face to face after so many videocalls, and the pleasant surprise is that over all the result has exceeded our expectations. The level

of engagement and quality of visitor makes INDEX a vital business development tool for industry players of all sizes, it remains the flagship exhibition of the nonwovens industry,” says Mikael Staal Axelsen, CEO of Fibertex Nonwovens.

AUTEFA Solutions- INDEX 2021, Booth No 4035 Face mask production line for 50,000 units per day A fully automated production line for protective face masks has been developed by AUTEFA Solutions. The HiPerMask system can output over 50,000 masks per day, meeting international standards EU FFP2 and FFP3, as well as US N95 and N98. AUTEFA Solutions is a leading manufacturer of nonwovens machines and automation systems and has designed the new line in recognition of current and likely future requirements for mask-wearing on a continuing basis. André Imhof, CEO AUTEFA Solutions Switzerland AG, says: "The production of FFP/N protective masks is about quality, efficiency, design and output. We will all continue to wear masks, so it is important that they can be produced autarch regionally in high volumes. At AUTEFA Solutions, we have focused on improving production quickly and sustainably with our know-how and upgrade packages for existing machines. We are able to upgrade ear loop and head loop welding stations, mask shape stamping (for different mask shapes) and mask folding

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(with sensor-controlled centering), and of course quality control of the processes and the entire production.”

numbering and company logos; and a mask folding unit has automatic centering using a vision sensor and linear unit.

The HiPerMask line consists of a material feed, nose clip feed and positioning, ultrasonic welding units, ear loops or head loop stations, mask folding, punching, and dispensing of the masks into a collection container. A vital factor is high process reliability, with reproducible product quality at an output of over 50,000 masks per day. EMERSON Branson ultrasonic assembly technology is used for respirator and mask shape welding. The nose clip unit ensures precise feeding of the clips; there is a printer for labelling on both sides, including individual

As an option, mask strip welding can be carried out as an ear loop station or as a headband station, with band length adjustment. Another outstanding feature is the ability to shape and weld the protective mask contour for different shapes and sizes.

Market growth and technical progress... AUTEFA SOLUTIONS to focus on productivity, quality and energy savings at INDEX Soaring demand in some critical nonwovens applications has made the global pandemic a period of both market growth and technical progress for companies at the forefront of the sector. The upcoming INDEX event is an ideal opportunity for equipment providers to present their latest innovations, and AUTEFA Solutions will be featuring novel systems targeting higher productivity, assured quality and energy efficiency. The sales boom in some areas – notably spunlaced products for hygiene and sanitizing wipes – has clearly been driven by virus-related requirements. But AUTEFA is confident that the resulting “huge demand” will continue, as producers discover the benefits of the technological advances made.

Says AUTEFA Solutions CMO Marco Fano: “Our unique web-forming technology ideally meets our customers’ needs at this time, and we see the upward trend in order intake being sustained in future, particularly in combined card and crosslapper solutions. Our advanced spunlace manufacturing systems are able to deliver high standards of quality and performance, with the all-important advantage of rapid investment payback.” Sustainable manufacturing is a key goal for Autefa, with a focus on manufacturing solutions which preserve both energy and raw materials. Spunlace processes can require relatively high energy usage, so AUTEFA has developed the unique combination of V-Jet FUTURA hydroentanglement machine and SQ-V Square Drum Dryer, which can reduce energy consumption by up to 30%. The V-Jet Injector also enables customers to modernize existing production lines with the newest hydroentanglement technology.

Savings in raw material costs and excellent fabric uniformity are major features of the Topliner crosslapper series. In combination with the WebMax and CLOSED LOOP system, this prevents weight increases at fabric edges – known as the smile effect – which would otherwise waste material. AUTEFA Solutions offers a complete range of nonwovens machinery, covering needlepunch lines, aerodynamic web forming, spunlace and thermobonding equipment. Application sectors range from hygiene and wipes through filtration, geotextiles, automotive, carpets, technical felts, wadding and insulation. In the premium nonwovens segment, AUTEFA Solutions is renowned for the quality, durability and performance of its technology for both forming and bonding processes, incorporating the famous brands Fehrer, FOR and Strahm.

Right fiber, right fabric Automatically Uster offers a combined solution for nonwovens quality control Nonwovens producers need their products to be flawless – but they know this objective takes some doing in practice. ‘Ordinary’ fabric inspection routines simply can’t deliver: only automated systems using highperformance spectroscopes are able to achieve the required standards, ensuring that quality is always significantly better. So, nonwovens manufacturers might be interested to hear first hand at the upcoming INDEX from the only provider of an effective fiber and fabric quality monitoring solution. EDANA and INDA, the leading global nonwovens associations, recently issued the 2021 edition of their ‘Standard Procedures’ guidance for nonwovens and related industries. These authoritative documents aim to define, in technical

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terms, relevant products – including 107 individual test regimes. This special article covers a range of intermediate measures and test processes for spunlace and other nonwoven technologies – leading ultimately to products with top class designations.

Pure fibers only Nonwoven materials can’t really be better than the fibers they are made of. But there is a real threat to the quality of nonwovens caused by contamination. Fiber cleaning is the solution and bundle size is the key detail: small contaminant particles can hide inside bigger bundles, making them especially difficult to locate when the material is more compressed. Uster Jossi Vision Shield N is ideally positioned in the line to overcome this,

directly behind the fine opener. This ensures that the fiber bundles pass the spectroscopes in their most open state. Uster Jossi Vision Shield N is the result of surveys, close collaboration with international nonwovens companies and countless hours of field tests. Installation is easy, since the fiber cleaner’s slim design fits perfectly into existing lines – and readily copes with the high output of standard production lines. For best detection results, the fiber cleaner is tuned to identify the typical contamination types in nonwovens, including colored fibers.

Growing demand, growing needs In Europe last year, medical applications recorded an increase in demand of 118% and wipes personal

“With improved quality, as well as improved first-quality efficiency, Uster EVS Fabriq Vision N offers an additional advantage for all applications,” says Winiger. The combination of a full map of fabric defects and the cut optimization module means more first-quality rolls can be produced and bad quality taken out.

Complete quality solution The combination of Uster automated contamination removal and quality assurance is the best solution today for nonwovens producers to protect quality, avoid material waste and take full advantage of the potential for process optimization. “The combination of Uster Jossi Vision Shield N and Uster EVS Fabriq Vision N means that Uster can offer a complete and unique quality monitoring solution for the nonwoven industry,” says Winiger. Uster will present this solution at INDEX 2020, in Geneva, Switzerland from October, 19th to 22nd 2021. Uster experts are ready to welcome visitors, pass on information and answer visitors’ questions at Booth 1402 in Hall 1.

About Uster Technologies

Uster EVS Fabriq Vision N, they can guarantee quality compliance and protect their business,” says Grégory Winiger, Area Sales Manager at Uster Technologies.

care plus 22%. These are the top two growing segments according to EDANA – and they are also the ones showing a trend towards zero tolerance levels for defects larger than 1 mm. While other technologies use conventional color cameras, the built-in spectroscopes of Uster Jossi Vision Shield N operate on a much greater wavelength range. This enables detection of contamination within the ‘invisible’ range of infrared and ultraviolet light, and even contamination fragments of the same or similar shade as the fibers themselves – down to the fineness of a human hair.

The Uster nonwovens systems lead to total fabric quality assurance by using automated control during intermediate inspection. Uster EVS Fabriq Vision N locates any visible faults objectively and consistently. Defects in every roll are located and recorded in a defect map, at full line running speeds.

For the record: Uster Jossi Vision Shield N is made in Uster, Switzerland. So is Uster EVS Fabriq Vision N, the nonwovens quality assurance system which ensures a consistently high rate of fault detection using automated inspection during the production process. “Our customers aim for confidence in delivering the right quality to strengthen their own customer relationships. With

Uster EVS Fabriq Vision N enables seamless integration of an inspection system into any production process – and ideally into nonwovens manufacturing lines – detecting contamination, holes, irregularities and any other defect. Installation is simple and flexible: a fixture bar bridges the full width of the process line, holding as many spectroscopes as required for the application.

The right quality on the roll

Uster is the world’s leading provider of quality management solutions from fiber to fabric. Uster Technologies offers hightechnology instruments, systems and services for quality control, prediction, certification and optimization in the textile industry. This includes systems for quality management, laboratory testing and in-line process control for fibers, staple and filament yarns, fabric inspection as well as value-added services. Uster provides the globallyacknowledged Uster Statistics benchmarks for trading, textile knowhow training, consulting and worldwide after-sales services – always aspiring to fulfill the textile market’s needs, to drive innovation forward with ‘quality in mind’. Uster Technologies AG is headquartered in Uster, Switzerland and operates worldwide. It has sales and service subsidiaries in the major textile markets and Technology Centers in Uster (Switzerland), Knoxville (USA), Suzhou (China) and Caesarea (Israel). 

Italian Textile Machinery at Index, The World’s Leading nonwovens trade Sshowr From 19 to 22 October, 2021, INDEX, the reference trade fair for the nonwovens sector, will take place in Geneva. Also for this edition there will be more than a hundred Italian exhibitors, of whom about eighty are machinery manufacturers. As in the past editions, Italian Trade Agency will organize an Italian Pavilion, where 13 Italian manufacturers will exhibit. The following ACIMIT member companies will be exhibiting in this area: A. Piovan, Bianco, Bombi, Color Service, Guarneri Technology, Monti-Mac, Officina Master, Ratti, Texera, Toscana Spazzole, Unitech. Other ACIMIT member companies will exhibit with their own booth. In recent years nonwovens production have grown on a global scale, much more significantly than the traditional textile industry. According to figures collected and compiled by EDANA, the global association of nonwovens companies, production of

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nonwovens in Europe grew by 7.2% in 2020 to reach 3 million tonnes (and 85.9 billion square metres), with a total estimated turnover of Euro 9.6 million. “Index is the leading trade fair for the nonwovens industry, comments Alex Zucchi, president of ACIMIT. It is therefore particularly important for ACIMIT and the Italian textile machinery industry to be present at the reference exhibition for nonwovens, a sector that has shown strong growth during the period of the Covid-19 pandemic. The increased demand for nonwovens, especially those intended for the medical sector (surgical masks, but also other personal protective clothing and equipment) has rewarded the Italian technological offer, rich in innovative solutions”. The demand for nonwovens has boosted the Italian production of nonwovens machinery during the last year. The increased demand for innovative solutions is precisely what

Alex Zucchi, president of ACIMIT

enhances the role of Italian textile machinery manufacturers. The Italian exports of machines used for producing nonwovens (HS code 844900) reached a value of 59 million euros in 2020. In the first six months of 2021, then, the growth was impressive: +142% over the first half of 2020, worth 37 million euros.

RadiciGroup at INDEX with new nonwovens Enhanced portfolio with spunbond from recyclate and meltblown: sustainability and performance, the keywords at the fair RadiciGroup's nonwoven innovations are on display at the INDEX trade fair (stand 2629), to be held from 19 to 22 October 2021 in Geneva, Switzerland. Active in the spunbond production business for more than 30 years with the dylar® product line, the Group is introducing Respunsible®, a reduced environmental impact spunbond made from recycled polypropylene, and radimelt™, the brand name for the Group’s line of meltblown nonwovens and composite materials (e.g., SMS). “Compared to the last edition of the fair," said Enrico Buriani, CEO of the RadiciGroup Nonwovens Business Line, "we are introducing new products that, on the one hand, satisfy the ever-increasing demand for sustainability coming from our target markets, and, on the other hand, meet the need for local European industries to manufacture meltblown nonwoven, a material with extremely high filtering properties, until recently mostly imported from Asia.” Mr. Buriani continued: “Additionally, during the pandemic, we set out to use our dylar® as the main component of protective gowns for medical use. Starting from scratch and in record time, we set up a local supply chain for the production of personal protective equipment that is still going strong today and has led to the creation of a new business. In short,

today we are at INDEX with a much more varied offering, which, I am proud to say, once again demonstrates the resilience of our Group." Respunsible® is a spunbond made from recycled polypropylene, a material appreciated for its excellent chemical properties and its versatility. Its high technical performance makes it suitable for any application, even the most demanding ones in terms of resistance and duration. Through recycling and recovery, production scraps are converted into polymers and then into spunbond, eliminating the need for additional virgin raw materials. The company has received certification through International Sustainability and Carbon Certification PLUS (ISCC PLUS) and can thus produce spunbond from ISCC-certified materials. Radimelt™ is the brand name identifying the Group’s meltblown nonwovens, materials used for the manufacture of protective face masks and other personal protective equipment (PPE). This nonwoven fabric has excellent filtration performance even for microscopic particles, such as viruses, and ensures breathability and protection. In 2020, the Group made a sizeable investment in a new technologically advanced meltblown production line. The machinery is very versatile and

can produce products endowed with special technical characteristics, not only from polypropylene but also other polymers, such as polyester, polyamide and TPU polymers, products that find application in the medical and filtration sectors. “At the fair, we are exhibiting samples of our main products," Mr. Buriani concluded. "But, above all, we will be at our customers disposal, ready to work together to come up with tailor-made solutions that meet specific requirements, both in terms of product quality and performance and in terms of sustainability, the circular economy and a reduction in environmental impact. Our production site is certified according to the ISO 9001, 14001 and 45001 standards and is 100% powered by green energy from the Group hydroelectric plants.”

Beaulieu Fibres International showcasing its ‘fibres that build futures’ at INDEX™20  Beaulieu Fibres International is back

and ready to reconnect at its first trade fair presence in 2021  The company’s fibre innovation for

sustainable design is helping customers to increase nonwoven performance  Discover optimized Meralux and

Meraspring BICO PET hygiene fibres and the awardwinning industrial fibre, UltraBond, for its sustainable contribution to 100% recyclable nonwovens  Visit Beaulieu Fibres International at th

stand 1340, at INDEX™20, 19 – 22 October,

Palexpo, Geneva Wielsbeke, Belgium – October 14, 2021 – Beaulieu Fibres International, the leading European polyolefin and BICO fibre supplier, is attending INDEX™20 in Geneva and is excited to accelerate its work helping customers to exceed in product performance and sustainability. “We are thrilled to be ‘back on the ground’ after the challenges of the pan-

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demic, to reconnect with all of our stakeholders and to keep pushing the boundaries of performance, sustainability and efficiency with our next generation fibre technology. Our solutions provide innovation for nonwovens manufacturers and are driving new, environmentally friendly product designs,” said Maria Teresa Tomaselli, General Manager at Beaulieu Fibres International. For nonwoven converters serving the hygiene segment, a feature at INDEX™20 will be the company’s optimized Meralux specialty fibre, with fit for use performance and sustainability properties. It offers opacity improvements (reduction of TiO2 for the same opacity levels), higher coverage, higher bulkiness, and improved liquid management. In addition, Meralux fibres deliver substantial sustainability benefits including about 55% savings in raw materials, with equivalent carbon emission savings, thanks to weight reduction in nonwovens for the same coverage, and higher recyclability of PP/PE.

The latest additions to the hygiene fibres portfolio are Meraspring BICO PET fibres, answering the market trend for increased comfort. Meraspring enables nonwovens to combine a softness and loftiness that provides a cushioned, even “well-being”, experience for end-users of applications such as diapers and fempads. The fibres are available in a range from 1.7-8.9 dtex with hydrophilic, hydrophobic and wellbeing finishes depending on the properties required in the final product. In the industrial fibres segment, UltraBond thermal bonding fibre will finally be presented with its INDEX™20 Nonwovens Award in the category "sustainable raw material". The jury of EDANA, the leading global association of the nonwovens and related industries, chose the fibre for its sustainable contribution to 100% recyclable nonwovens. In addition, Beaulieu Fibres International’s new range of MONO low count and BICO fibres are setting new performance standards for the fast-grow-

Asahi Kasei: Sustainable nonwoven fabric Bemliese™ certified as marine biodegradable by TÜV AUSTRIA Belgium Asahi Kasei’s sustainable nonwoven fabric Bemliese™ has been certified as “OK biodegradable MARINE” by TÜV AUSTRIA Belgium. Made of cotton linter, this material that can be utilized for a diverse array of disposable goods and applications, ranging from cosmetic facial masks, hygienic applications and medical sterilization, to cleaning equipment for high-precision machinery and laboratories. As a further step of expansion, Asahi Kasei is also looking at the European market.

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Bemliese™ is a nonwoven fabric sheet made from cotton linter – tiny hair-like fibers on cotton seeds. Asahi Kasei is the first and only company in the world that has developed a clean proprietary process for treating this linter to produce sheets that can be integrated in a diverse array of product designs. Linter was originally a pre-consumer waste byproduct of the traditional cotton harvesting process, and now has been converted to roughly 3% of the total yield. TÜV AUSTRIA Belgium NV, a globally recognized organization that certifies product biodegradation, has

recognized the material’s biodegradability in water and has certified Bemliese™ as “OK biodegradable MARINE”. Prior to this, the material had already obtained certifications for industrial compost, home compost and soil biodegradability by TÜV AUSTRIA Belgium.

Suitable for a wide range of applications Next to its sustainability, Bemliese™ has unique material properties, that make it an ideal material for applications in various industries. When dry, Bemliese™ leaves virtually no lint, scratches, or chemicals on the surfaces it touches,

making it an ideal material for cleaning equipment in industrial, laboratory, or medical environments that must remain contamination-free. Its high purity keeps the material free from excess oils or chemicals that may be inherent in similar materials. It also has a higher rate of absorbency than cotton gauze, rayon/PET, or nonwoven cotton. On the other hand, unlike cotton, a sheet of Bemliese™ becomes extraordinarily soft after moistening and drapes well over any surface it touches with little to no abrasion. Its extraordinary absorption of moisture and ability to hold onto tiny particles makes it an ideal material for hygienic applications or medical sterilization. When soaked, it can grip the surface of an object tightly and hold the material in place while it dries. The reclaimed cellulose filament structure created by using cotton linter as a material provides a much higher level of liquid retention than regular cotton.

Sustainable Beauty Cosmetic facial masks made from Bemliese™ have made waves in sustainable beauty throughout Asia, attracting world-class cosmetics developers like L’Oréal and KOSÉ Group with its unrivaled absorbency and performance. These face sheets made from cotton linter absorb and hold formulas that rejuvenate skin far more

efficiently and stick to every contour of the face from the moment it touches the skin and stays in place. This allows for the even application of formula to the skin, yielding superior results. In addition, unlike traditional face sheets that commonly contain plastics, those made from cotton linter are a 100% natural source, clean production, and fast biodegradability within four weeks that has resonated in the industry where consumers have begun abandoning their usual products in favor of those that are more environmentally friendly.

Asahi Kasei now also eyeing the European market After the success in Asia, Asahi Kasei is currently launching Bemliese™ in North America via its trading arm in the USA, Asahi Kasei Advance America. As a future step, the company is also planning to establish contacts on the European market. With tightening regulations and also driven by changing consumer demands, the European industry’s shift towards lowering the CO2 footprint throughout the value chain is accelerating at a fast pace, increasing the needs towards sustainable materials. “The OK biodegradable MARINE certificate will help to increase the awareness towards the ecofriendly aspects of materials made of regenerated cellulose, especially in regard to the

marine microplastics issue. In addition, the EU recently banned single-use plastics. This opens up new opportunities for cellulose-based fiber materials, which are not part of this ban”, says Koichi Yamashita, Head of Sales at Bemliese™, Performance Products SBU at Asahi Kasei.

About the Asahi Kasei Corporation Asahi Kasei Corporation is a globally active diversified technology company with operations in the Material, Homes, and Health Care business. The Material division encompasses fibers & textiles, petrochemicals, performance polymers, performance materials, consumables, battery separators, and electronic devices. The Homes division provides housing and construction materials to the Japanese market. The Health Care division includes pharmaceuticals, medical devices, and acute critical care devices and systems. With more than 44,000 employees around the world, the Asahi Kasei Group serves customers in more than 100 countries and achieved sales of 17.3 billion euros (2,106 billion yen) in the fiscal year 2019 (April 1, 2020 – March 31, 2021). Asahi Kasei is “Creating for Tomorrow” with all operations sharing a common mission of contributing to life and living for people around the world.

Web guider DRB14

Erhardt +Leimer to Introduce EL NETat INDEX At Index 2021, which runs from October 19 to 22 in Geneva, Erhardt+Leimer will present its comprehensive networking concept EL.NET, which, thanks to the many new products and features, clearly focuses on the customer and their requirements. E+L web guiders are I 4.0-ready AE+L web guiders are I 4.0-ready The DRB pivoting frame series offers all the benefits of networking, from brushless small web guiders through to large pivoting frame systems. All the components of the DRB series are networked using Ethernet and form their own network. Besides the rapid and transparent data exchange within the system, this data is now available for Industry 4.0 applications. In principle, Erhardt+Leimer has let itself be guided by the open architecture and offers this benefit irrespective of the hardware and software. This means that any user with standard terminals, such as a PC, tablet or even smartphone, can access the system with a browser, make settings or operate

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it in a simple way. The precondition is simply access via the machine or the Intranet of the user. In addition, this technology now offers real Plug & Play functionality, which E+L will present at its stand.

Wide band sensor for the evaluation of up to four edges The networking concept is rounded off with the FR 61 infrared wide band sensor, which is available with a fork length of up to 480 mm and allows itself to be equally seamlessly integrated into the described system architecture.

Web tension measurement and control The PA 62 web tension measuring amplifier and the DC 62 web tension controller can of course be networked with the machine in the same way as the

Wide band sensor FR 61

products named above, thus closing the circle of complete networking. The benefits for the customer: a two-channel measuring amplifier, LCD display for displaying the actual web tension value, a trend curve or the individual values for the left and right side of the web. Alarm functions on exceeding limit values, which can be configured individually, are included, too. Erhardt+Leimer is at stand 4443. 

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Classified

ADVERTISERS INDEX SEPTEMBER 2021

Archroma..................................................................IFC AVM Chemicals ...................................................6 & 64 Benninger....................................................................15 Brueckner ..................................................................21 Chhipasons................................................................64 Cotton USA...............................................................BC DNG Brand Denge Kimya..........................................33 DyStar ........................................................................3 Groz-Beckert .............................................................27 Fongs ........................................................................23 IGATEX Pakistan 2022 ...............................................45 ICADEX Pakistan 2022...............................................59 iTextiles .....................................................................41 Intex South Asia ........................................................IBC Jet Logistics................................................................64 Loepfe .......................................................................11 Monforts.....................................................................1 Picanol ........................................................................9 Rieter .........................................................................39 Rastgar.............................................................. 29 & 56 Santex Rimar Group...................................................19 SSM AG ....................................................................13 Swissmem ..................................................................25 Suessen......................................................................37 Truetzschler.................................................................FC Uster ...........................................................................17 Zhejiang Rifa ..............................................................49

Established 1951

Established 1951 July 2021

Italian Review

August 2021

Pakistan Textile Journal – September 2021

Articles inside

Erhardt +Leimer to Introduce EL NETat INDEX

Italian Textile Machinery at Index, The World’s Leading nonwovens trade Sshowr

Asahi Kasei: Sustainable nonwoven fabric Bemliese™ certified as marine biodegradable by TÜV AUSTRIA Belgium

Beaulieu Fibres International showcasing its ‘fibres that build futures’ at INDEX20

RadiciGroup at INDEX with new nonwovens

Right fiber, right fabric Automatically

Opportunities to FESPA 2021

An opportunity to meet with customers and suppliers of nonwovens under

AUTEFA Solutions- INDEX 2021, Booth No 4035

New CEO at SANITIZED AG: Michael Lüthi to assume leadership of the SANITIZED AG company group

EFI Reggiani Terra Silver debuts at FESPA 2021 It’s Time to Experience Print – Mimaki to Bring New Innovations and Application

Intex South Asia International Business Matching week

Fespa Brings the Colour Back

Archroma introduces the ‘Safe Edge’ online regulatory & compliance platform

SSM offers proper tool for the competitive DTY Market

Sustainable and intelligent

YARNMASTER® PRISMA RGB full-color monitoring

Rieter customer Norfil benefits from flexible production with Comber E90

brands as Members

BRÜCKNER success in Turkey

ANDRITZ to supply textile recycling system to Renewcell, Sweden

NOWOtex GmbH puts its faith in Oerlikon Nonwoven meltblown technology U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol adds global apparel leader, PVH Corp., and its iconic