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BOHEMIAN BAR MAGAZINE BOHEMIAN BARTENDER: PAUL TVAROH INTERVIEW WITH ONDREJ KOBZA ANGUS WINCHESTER: BRING BACK THE APERITIF JAN SAUDEK

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W ELCO ME

am on my way to Singapore. Sitting at the airport in the capital of Holland, waiting for my connecting flight and thinking of what is awaiting me on this journey. Are you gonna meet everyone’s expectations buddy?

Or will you try to exceed them?

Well, I would love to, but what exactly are the expectations of the people I have never met before?

Some might say: “Do not care about what others expect from you, just do your best and enjoy the ride!”

What’s your point of view on this matter? Do you have personal expectations of yourself, or is it more important what others think?

While speaking of expectations, I have to say that it has been quite a while since I wrote up the last editorial for this mag, and no I did not expect our break to take this long. However, here we are, dressed in a slightly different graphic coat, and with new bohemian blood in our veins. In the following year you can expect four different issues to come out. They will be sprinkled with pop-ups or, if you wish, newsletters in between. What remains the same is that we will be speaking Bohemian again, and I very much look forward to it.

In this jubilee issue No.10 I interviewed one truly Bohemian personality, this time from my home country of the Czech Republic. Prague based Ondrej Kobza will talk about his dreams in coffee culture within the Prague café scene; and what would the tenth issue be without another true Bohemian bar personality, one who owns and runs a truly original place called the Bohemian Lounge in London?

Did you think that Bohuslav Pich, our secret recipe keeper for Becherovka, was still hiding his own secrets? Well, not anymore as we asked him some very personal questions.

I am also very happy that my public speaking and knowledgeable hero Angus Winchester contributed with his Aperitif themed article as well.

Have you heard about the most controversial photographer in Europe Jan Saudek? If not, then he will explain what a true bohemian life is about…

But I better stop stirring this cocktail now….before it gets too diluted.

I hope you enjoy this issue as much as we and our brand new team enjoyed making it for you.

George Nemec International Becherovka Ambassador

B O H E M I A N B A RT E N D E R

BOHEMIAN BARTENDER PAUL TVAROH, LOUNGE BOHEMIA, LONDON

B O H E M I A N B A RT E N D E R I PAU L T VA R O H

here’s not many bartenders who epitomize the word bohemian better than Paul Tvaroh. Although, as a true Bohemian (literally, as he comes from Czech republic – the real Bohemia), he refuses to be pigeonholed or labelled.

Paul runs one of the best and most interesting bars in London, intriguing the guests with fascinating concoctions served in charming, cosy underground premises. Lounge Bohemia is frequented by those who are in the search of something unique yet prefer intimate conversation and comfortable seating, and above all the feeling that they are being treated as real guests.

Paul Tvaroh loves everything theatrical, but hates all pretense.

He serves the strangest, magically playful drinks and successfully avoids snobbery. We talked to him about his bar, his creativity, the life in London and his love for the work he does.

B O H E M I A N B A RT E N D E R I PAU L T VA R O H

What does Paul Tvaroh think about when he gets up?

Usually it’s the day to day running of the bar. But if I’m working on an event for a private client, then I might be thinking about how to solve a logistical problem without compromising on creativity - sometimes these challenges can lead to even better ideas.

What is your go-to bar in London?

I don’t really visit other bars because I don’t drink, so when I do go, it’s usually because I’m having a meeting with someone and I let them pick the place. But if I have friends visiting London, I would take them to Pachamama - currently the best Pisco Sours in town and the food is amazing.

How important is it for you to cultivate relationships with other people in the bar industry?

I don’t really get involved in industry functions. I prefer to be behind the bar, not networking in front of one. But I have a lot of good friends in the industry who I can share ideas with and I respect their opinions.

How is it possible to work in this industry and not drink?

It wasn’t something I planned. Health is precious and mine was already second-rate, so I didn’t really have a choice! But I don’t think you need to drink alcohol to understand how flavours work.

Is there a place in the world you like more than the others?

I really like Tokyo - not for its bar scene necessarily (I’m not a fan of the foot long spoons!), but I really love the city, its fashion, the strange kind of calm (even though the town is bursting at the seams with people), the culture, and most of all the food. I would not want to live there permanently, but a summer flat wouldn’t hurt.

Can you imagine your bar in 20-30 years’ time? Are you still going to be tending it?

It won’t be in the same place for sure as we are having problems with a greedy landlord, and we also recently had a fire. Here’s a piece of advice from Paul Tvaroh: don’t open your bar underneath a kebab shop! But for now I can certainly see myself working behind a bar until retirement. I’m doing what I love and if that love changes then maybe I’ll do something else, maybe shoemaking... who knows? Eight years ago I couldn’t have imagined that I would be in a position that I am in now: I am my own boss and I can be as creative as I like, but it happened and I’m deeply grateful to all the people who helped me get here.

What are the most pleasant moments spent at work for you?

Everyday things make me happy: like fixing the ice machine if it’s broken, happy customers, or just the fact that the Friday shift is over and no one shouted at us because we wouldn’t let them have a seat without a reservation (some of these guys piss in our hallway to “reward” us…)

If nothing has been destroyed or nicked that night, everyone is satisfied and life goes on - and that’s what makes me happy.

You seem to be working behind the stick quite a lot.

Where do you find time to create new inventions? Can you describe the process of coming up with new drinks?

I work long hours, but most of the creative process takes place in my head, so it doesn’t really matter where I am. I get some of my best ideas in the shower.

In Lounge Bohemia we can do whatever we want, so new cocktails emerge in different ways. Sometimes it’s the discovery of a new ingredient or a new technique, or some unusual glassware that’s crying out to be used.

With events it’s more complicated because there are a lot more constraints like the budget, the head count, the venue etc. And there is usually a theme which can sometimes be challenging. But on the other hand it’s really satisfying when I manage to design a drink that works well with all the limitations of the event, and yet is still very creative and excites the client.

B O H E M I A N B A RT E N D E R I PAU L T VA R O H

What is a guest to you? What would your ideal guest be like?

My ideal guest is someone who understands why we have rules.

The reservations, the no standing and no suit policy - these have all been put in place to make the experience of Lounge Bohemia feel really intimate and special, and to make sure everyone gets the highest standard of service possible. I also love customers who are adventurous and like to try new things - these guys will always be rewarded! One of my pet peeves are people who can’t take no for an answer, and seem to think there is one set of rules for them and another set of rules for everyone else. The ones who don’t understand when I say we’re fully booked, it’s because we’re fully booked. Telling me you have money to spend, or you’re going to write a bad review will never work...

Can you imagine bringing in a successor - an “heir” of Lounge Bohemia? If so, what would be the requirements for the position?

I actually never thought about that. Does the world need another Paul Tvaroh? Isn’t molecular mixology on the way out? Was Jesus the first molecular mixologist because he turned water into wine?

You certainly have your own, very specific style. Is this the way you presented yourself in adolescence or maybe as a kid? What did you enjoy doing in your childhood?

I’ve pretty much always lived by the motto “Why blend in when you can stand out?” I guess you could say I was a bit counter culture as a kid - skateboarding and graffiti were my big passions for a while. I don’t know why, but I’ve always enjoyed being different. It hasn’t always worked in my favour, but it’s helped me to get where I am today. You never forget a man in a funny hat.

Is honing a certain style behind the bar important for you? Or should it be just a natural extension of the bartender’s personality?

What is “style behind the bar”? Are we talking about movements?

For instance Marian Beke –who has many followers and a lot of copycats, but he’s the true original! – it’s always a pleasure to watch him work. Or are we talking about a certain way of presenting your cocktails, or using certain ingredients? But yes, in a way, I think style should be a natural extension of the bartender’s personality. I think bartenders should do what they like and what they’re best at. It doesn’t matter if the style isn’t ‘in fashion’; if the drinks are really good people will come back for more. If you stay true to your strengths it won’t look like you’re following the crowd.

Of course you can evolve your style over time, but I’d avoid visiting other bars for inspiration - you don’t want to become a copycat.

Do you remember when the thought of opening your own bar first crossed your mind? Did you manage to create it exactly according to your dream?

I dreamt about my own bar for a very long time and before it happened I cooperated on a project with a friend, plus I had a lot of experience working for other people. The advantage of that was the regular monthly wages turning up on my account, no matter what. The downside is the curb on your creativity (unless you are called Alexino Kratena.)

Lounge Bohemia definitely didn’t turn out the way I expected.

Like any good bar the concept was shaped by the venue. I didn’t set out to open an underground bar, but when I saw the basement creating a discreet, private space felt right. As far as I know, when we first opened only private members clubs were taking reservations for cocktails. We made the bar ‘by appointment’ to create the feel of a private members club, but wanted to make it accessible to everybody. We wanted it to be a relaxed space where people could have a conversation and focus on the drinks, so we made it a non-standing bar with table service. We often get referred to as a speakeasy, but I think that’s lazy journalism - I don’t know how you can be a speakeasy if you’re selling alcohol legally! I guess being in a basement automatically makes you a speakeasy these days...

B O H E M I A N B A RT E N D E R I PAU L T VA R O H

What was your first “molecular” cocktail, and what is your newest concoction?

My first molecular drink was Old Castro - my take on an Old Fashioned. It consisted of Cuban rum infused with a Cuban cigar, orange bitters and Madagascar vanilla served with vanilla cotton candy instead of sugar. The rum is chilled in the freezer inside a cigar tube. The cigar tube is then served inside an old cigar box with a glass filled with the cotton candy (the ‘smoke’) and a cinnamon stick (the ‘cigar’). The rum is poured over the cotton candy, which disappears, and the drink is stirred with the cinnamon stick.

My last creation made me really happy, maybe because it turned out even better than I anticipated. Last December we were creating drinks for one of our clients who was hosting an event at the opening night of Alice in Wonderland at the Royal Opera House.

The theme was set, I just had to brush up on my knowledge of the book and that’s how the idea for the drink was born. There is a scene where the Queen of Hearts orders her servants to paint white roses red. The drink was a clear vanilla-chocolate Martini, into which the server dropped a white heart in front of the guest.

The heart turned red when touching the surface and within a minute or so it disappeared completely and coloured the whole cocktail red, adding a strawberry flavor. A simple classic combination of chocolate and strawberries with a visual twist.

Why did you, out of all possible cities, choose London?

And what’s it like to live there?

I picked London in 1996 because my buddy lived here and it was 65 Czech crowns to the pound, so you could work a shitty job during the summer (in my case washing dishes), and earn enough for a great winter of snowboarding. And then it just kind of continued.

After my studies ended, I got an offer from my former employer - this time not to wash the dishes, but to wait tables. And after 11 years of getting to know new people and grabbing new opportunities I opened Lounge Bohemia.

London is very multicultural - I have friends from all over the world - and it’s got a lot of interesting art and culture. But my life isn’t that glamorous. I get up and go to work like anyone else, and still have to clean the toilets. London is a busy place - 10 million people live here - so the traffic can be a nightmare. You could get from Plzen to Prague in the time it takes me to do my daily shopping. But London has given me a lot of learning opportunities, customers and clients. Plus I met my wife here, so the city has been pretty good to me.

How often do you get to visit the place of your birth (the village of Mezibori in the Czech Republic)?

Unfortunately, almost never. My parents moved away and I have no contact with old friends who still live there. If I went there I would probably stand out - just like I did when I was growing up there!

Is there someone in the current bar or food scene who inspires you?

When it comes to food it’s certainly Magnus Nilsson. He works in a small restaurant in the north of Sweden where he serves only local ingredients. He also has a very specific take on customer service which I admire (you have to read his book to find out more.)

What are you into, besides your bar and design?

I am into loads of things, the problem is finding the time. I would love to get into hand made books. Ask me in a few years time maybe one will materialize...

What were the beginnings of Lounge Bohemia? Was it hard to find a solid customer base without marketing?

The beginnings were difficult. We deliberately wanted our only PR to be word of mouth, but that takes time. And not everyone understood the reservation and no suit policy, which led to a few negative customer reviews. The food and drink enthusiasts really got us though; and some very positive articles on a couple of key food and drink blogs helped get the right people through the door.

What does the word Bohemian mean to you?

On our menu and business cards we have a little description of Bohemia (I think it was taken from the Oxford dictionary) which sums it up quite nicely: bo•he•mi•a [boh-hee-mee-uh] 1. region in the west Czech republic; formerly a kingdom in central Europe.

2. district inhabited by person, typically artists, writers and intellectuals, whose way of live, dress, etc., are generally avant-garde.

B O H E M I A N B A RT E N D E R I PAU L T VA R O H

What is your view on international

competi-

tions? It seems they are mostly focused on their own marketing than the bartender and the development of the local bar scenes…

I don’t really follow the bar scene or any competitions - local or international. Everybody has their own style, taste and a vision to put across - how can you judge that?

Is there something new we can look forward to in your

bar?

We are always trying to improve and surprise or challenge our customers. The best showcase is our tasting menu which presents different textures and flavours based on a theme. Currently it’s a “Walk through the woods” - which needs to be pre-ordered at least 24 hours in advance. There also might be a little surprise coming up in the summer for all of those who would like to try our drinks but London is too far away for them.

LOUNGE BOHEMIA 1 E G R E AT E A ST E R N ST R E E T LO N D O N

B R A N D E D U C AT I O N

I WOULD FALL ASLEEP TO THE CLINKING OF BOTTLES.

B R A N D E D U C AT I O N

here’s not many people in this world with closer ties to Becherovka: he’s been helping with, and overseeing a crucial part of the production process of this delicious Czech national treasure, for three decades. Bohuslav Pich is the Master Blender who’s been mixing the unique blend of herbs for the liqueur for years; and now he’s allowed us to take a closer look at his life and what has and has not changed in the process of making Becherovka throughout his reign at the company.

Mr. Pich, where and how did you grow up?

I was born here in Carlsbad. My mother was a simple clerk and my father was the head of a factory.

What did you want to be as a child?

I guess just like every other kid back then – I wished to become a mechanic or a TV repairman. At school I enjoyed chemistry and mathematics; I use a lot of both at work today. Especially counting, I practically use it all the time, for instance in communicating with customs.

B R A N D E D U C AT I O N

What else did you enjoy as a kid?

Because I’m not exactly the sporty type, I gravitated more towards artistic activities: painting, woodwork, and also conjuring. In Carlsbad there was a certain Mr. Ourada who was the chairman of the World Union of Wizards, so I worked with him and he taught me some magic.

Do you ever pull your magician equipment out of the wardrobe?

Not in a long time – it was, after all, 45 years ago…

What was your very first contact with Becherovka? Do you have any memories?

It was when I was still in elementary school. I was just deciding on where to go after I finish and I came in contact with Becherovka, so I went to visit the production site with my mom. At that time we lived maybe 150 meters from Becherovka, so I would fall asleep to the clinking sound of bottles...

What impression did the initial visit leave on you?

It was a big surprise for me because the company was completely different than any other factory I had encountered. The guys showed me the production itself, they took me to the cellar and into warehouses where the barrels, vats, and all the smaller and larger tanks were stored… I was really intrigued.

What was your very first work experience like?

I began my mandatory internship while still at school – this was my first job at Becherovka. At first I just helped out in the cellar, in the production of semi-products: I would melt the sugar, clean the centrifuge of sediment, pump the alcohol from the barrels… and then after five or six years I was doing all the work – from beginning to end.

What was the most interesting part of the work?

Definitely the diversity. You did some manual labour, but you also had to think a lot: what goes into the barrels, where does it need to proceed afterwards, where and how do you emit the liquid and so on. It was not a boring job by any means.

And what was the most difficult part?

The most difficult was to master the paths – what, where and how should it be flowing. And filling the barrels wasn’t simple either: you had to be able tell if they were already full according to the sound the liquid made. Tapping on the barrel was another method of knowing where the water table is. Today the process is obviously different; we have these large stainless steel barrels with gauges that accurately indicate the water level.

How did you work your way to your current position in the company?

It took quite a long time. At first I worked as a temp, then I became a cellarman, later a technician, and then the chief technician. This was followed by the production manager position, and in 1998 I finally got to mix herbs – a position I still hold today. It was neither a quick nor an easy journey.

B R A N D E D U C AT I O N

What do you consider to be the most important moment of your career?

I don’t think it’s possible to pinpoint one moment out of the many, but the first breakthrough was certainly when I got the job; that was a great feeling. And when they later revealed the secret composition of Becherovka to me it was a really special day. There were plenty of important moments and each of them held something unique.

What is your favorite place in the factory?

Those are multiple: the production line, the cellar, the warehouse…

You know, in the cellar you can watch how it all begins. At the production line you can see the bottling, and the warehouse is a place where the fully loaded trucks start delivering Becherovka to people.

All these places have their own charm and there you can gradually observe the entire creation and shipping of Becherovka.

What had changed in Becherovka since you started?

Well, perhaps the most important thing is what had not changed – and that’s the technological process of production. The means and gadgets have of course changed, we now have modern filters, pumps, tanks, and the measurement system is much more precise.

But the making of Becherovka as such, i.e. the technological process is absolutely unchangeable.

What is the atmosphere in the company like?

I think it’s very good. It could not be any other way; we are a relatively small factory and without us trusting each other Becherovka could not be produced. It is simply not possible that someone here would not be on speaking terms with someone else; openness is necessary, people must communicate with each other so the production can carry on smoothly.

Is Becherovka itself different than when it was first created?

Even if it was any different I could not tell you, because in 1805 I wasn’t even born! Also, the fact is our taste buds – or rather their ability to accurately remember taste – are quite tricky. To say you can precisely recall a certain taste from 40 years back you’d have to be a true taste specialist, and even then you’d most probably still have to compare the taste with other flavors, so you have something to collate it with. So when people say that this sausage tastes just like the one they used to eat as a kid, they maybe just don’t know how difficult it is to store and recall taste memories accurately.

Have you noticed any changes in public perception of Becherovka during your time with the company?

I think that this perception is largely the same as it was in the past.

The impression of Becherovka is as a popular, established brand; well known by younger and older consumers alike. We do our best to maintain the superior quality of the product; we make it using the same procedure, in the same place – here in Carlsbad. We are also trying to keep public perception constant: we want them to see Becherovka as a high quality brand that is easily recognizable; its bottle and its taste alike.

What herbal products besides Becherovka do you enjoy?

I really like KV 14 with its bitter herbal taste, and then also Cordial with the pleasantly sweet taste. I could never say no to these two!

B R A N D E D U C AT I O N

Do you go to bars for a post-work drink?

I rarely go to bars because I do not have much time for that. Occasionally, when we have a special visitor, I go b ut I am certainly not sitting in a pub every night.

Do you encounter herbs outside of work – for example, in your garden?

Although I do not own a garden myself, my grandmother has a little house where she grows some herbs with my wife. The house is in the mountains where nothing but herbs grow anyway!

Does your profession make you a family “expert” on herbs? Do they ask for your advice?

They never ask, although I would be able to advise a bit… but I’m not a great herbalist by any stretch of the imagination.

What kind of a customer are you when you go to a bar?

I think as a guest I am a little bit more discerning. I’m also a guest who likes to try everything, preferably something I have not tasted before. Anywhere I go, especially when in a foreign country, I try to sample the local food and drink so I can form my own opinion. I am definitely not the guy who says “I would never put that into my mouth!” – until I have tried something, I try to avoid any judgements. Different cultures and different types of people prefer different flavors, and I am always very happy to get to know them.

I N T E RV I E W

“ MY GREATEST AMBITION? GREAT ATMOSPHERE! ”

I N T E RV I E W I O N D R E J KO B Z A

t has been four years since Ondrej Kobza opened his first café bar. Formerly a DJ, he knew nothing about running a bar, but he proved to be a quick learner. “I had never studied it. I did not even know how to pour a beer. But I knew how to get people in”, says Ondrej. And that is exactly what he did. Café v Lese turned out to be a hit. He now owns another café in the centre of Prague, and co-owns a little bar on the embankment of the Vltava river, both of which became the IT places of the respective locations.

“ I NEVER SPEND MUCH TIME BEHIND THE BAR, I AM ALWAYS THE HOST, THE ONE WHO WELCOMES AND SEATS THE CUSTOMERS. ”

I N T E RV I E W I O N D R E J KO B Z A

Ondrej, why did you open a café bar?

I wanted a clubroom, a place where I could organize events. What I really love doing is to host people, not only with food and drinks, but also to create an atmosphere. I am more of an “entertainment man” – I used to be a DJ, I held parties… I have only learned what it actually means to run a café bar in the process.

In hindsight, is there something you would have done differently having had the chance?

When I first opened I invited some of my friends who I knew were experienced bartenders to work with me. But since they were my friends it was next to impossible to criticize them. I don’t regret it, but it was hard for me as I had no idea how to tell them to go and do something.

I did not know how to be a manager, how to be in charge of people.

What makes a good employee?

Everyone says they have some experience, but only a few people have the right kind of experience. If there comes a moment when all the guests seem to have something to drink, and you use that moment to check your Facebook page, you are probably not a good bartender. A good barman will always find something to do. He should also be kind and move with some elegance… that’s what I appreciate. And I am sorry to say that people here in Czech republic are not quite there yet.

“ SURE, YOU MUST HAVE GOOD COFFEE AND GREAT BEER, BUT THE MAIN THING PEOPLE COME FOR IS ALWAYS THAT ‘SOMETHING’ IN THE AIR. ”

What was your secret formula to create the right atmosphere in a bar?

I was there in person. I greeted and seated every guest, and quickly got a free chair from somewhere if there was no seat available.

The people felt the owner was there – I was like a guarantee that they would be well taken care of. And they felt good. The details are just as important. My clientele appreciates when things are personal – the beer comes from a small brewery, plum brandy from one friend, and wine from another – everything has a story.

How does your busy schedule influence your private life?

I think I am unable to fall in love at the moment. I believe this intimate energy you put into relationships is not that different from the energy you put into your work. They have the same roots. And as I am realizing my potential at work, I have no passion to spare.

But I have no complaints.

G N ST U D I O

PINE & PEPPER CO.

G N ST U D I O

THINKING OF ANOTHER CHAPTER FOR THE GN STUDIO I ASKED MYSELF: DUDE, UNLESS YOU WANT TO VISIT ONE OF YOUR CHEF FRIENDS, WHAT THE HECK ARE YOU GOING TO CREATE TODAY?

ather than giving you another master molecular creation, which have been out of fashion for years anyway, or presenting you with another extraordinary way of serving drinks, I decided to introduce an inspiring person to you.

I greatly admire this person, who is well respected not only on Australian shores, where I spent most of my professional life behind a bar; he is also very much beloved around the world.

He is a true original, a master of dry English humor, he is knowledge himself, a great bar industry influencer: Jason Crawly.

Even if it does not really seem that Jason cares about accolades and fame himself we have to admit that this gentleman, a sporty husband and a father of two, is a highly awarded industry figure. Since graduating from London’s famous Goldsmith’s University Crawley’s career has spanned over two decades of international experience with diverse bar operations.

Crawley served most of his tenure in London with the likes of the Ian Schrager Hotels and many others. He has also built educational training strategies throughout Italy and South East Asia, and more recently works as an independent consultant for a diverse range of creative initiatives in the Australian market.

G N ST U D I O

During his stay in Australia starting in 2000, Jason has become widely recognized by the industry. He won the Brand Ambassador of the year in 2008 and 2009, and his educational program ‘Mixxit’ collected the title of the training program of the year in both 2009 and 2012.

He, and his lovely personality with a constant cheeky smile on his face, was also recognized to be in the top three most influential industry heads by Australian Bartender Magazine in 2010. He’s also widely known in the USA for his creative and knowledgeable input into the drinks industry, and passionate work raising awareness for The Museum of The American Cocktail.

Today, Crawley spends most of his time building the Crawley’s Bartender Brands as a wider part of his Simple Syrup Co., writing for the trade media, or being a panelist and a judge for Tales of the Cocktails.

As mentioned above, Jason has been a great inspiration to my professional and personal life, and this is why I decided to dedicate my GN Studio to him. Jason, only a few years ago, launched his very own brand of artisanal syrups The Simple Syrup Co. – go and check out more about it on his website.

I decided to create my very own unusual syrup, and guess who and what has been my motivation?

G N ST U D I O

PINE AND PEPPER CO. I cut a fresh pineapple into very small pieces and throw them in a small, preheated pot along with a teaspoon of coconut oil. I leave it to simmer for about three minutes until the pieces soften and they acquire a golden color. At this moment I add a pinch of ground black pepper and three parts of brown caster sugar. I stir it for a few minutes. Then it’s time for three parts of water. The mixture is ready and needs to simmer for another five minutes.

When the final product is ready to be used, I mash small chunks of pineapple, and fine strain it at the end. Now we can rock and roll!

G N ST U D I O

BECHER CRACKER SOUR

30ml Becherovka 25ml Beefeater Gin 15ml Pine & Pepper syrup 20ml fresh lemon juice ½ egg white is optional Shake all ingredients with ice and strain.

Serve straight up or over rocks.

Garnish with dehydrated pineapple disk with cracked pepper.

O U R G U E ST

“ BRING BACK THE APERITIF! “

O U R G U E ST I A N G U S W I N C H E ST E R

“ I LOVE BARTENDING. BUT LET’S BE HONEST, WHAT WE DO CAN HURT PEOPLE. ”

hey come into the bar early, well dressed and well mannered, and even better: they appreciate your skills. They love your drinks, and your passion and skills. Yet, four hours later they have enjoyed and appreciated too much. They are a mess, annoying others, getting into trouble... and it’s all your fault.

One of the great shames of the Cocktail Culture is that for some, it seems to have changed in history from an almost Culinary Art form to just a good way of getting drunk without properly tasting the booze.

Furthermore, it is a shame that people have lost many of the skills that go with drinking. The Aperitif is a good example of a habit and art form that should be reclaimed as it is classy, culinary and useful, as well as traditional, authentic and interesting. And thankfully, as we barmen have become more professional, we are doing what we can to bring this elegant drinking style back.

The aperitif habit is an excellent one, providing a pre-prandial intermission, a period of détente, socially dividing aspects of the day. As one author eloquently puts it “it provides a cloak to jump the puddle from day to night.”

O U R G U E ST I A N G U S W I N C H E ST E R

A LITTLE BIT OF THEORY The word “aperitif” derives from the Latin aperture – to open. It is therefore as an “opener” to the appetite that aperitifs are usually taken; a liquid prelude to eating. The basic function is to cleanse the palate and give the stomach a ‘nudge’ to prepare them for the food to follow. Literally making your mouth water.

From this point of view the aperitif can be seen as anything to which one cares to give the title: from Champagne to a Martini, or a Negroni – all have been taken as an aperitif. But as you dig deeper, you will quickly see that some aperitifs are better than others.

A DASH OF HISTORY Some say that the concept of drinking a small amount of alcohol before a meal dates back to the ancient Egyptians. Many records, however, show that the aperitif first appeared in 1786 in Italy, when Antonio Benedetto Carpano invented vermouth in the city of Turin. In later years, vermouth was produced and sold by such well-known companies as Martini, Cinzano, and Gancia.

Aperitifs were already widespread in the 19th century in Italy, where they were being served in fashionable cafés in Rome, Venice, Florence, Milan, Turin, and Naples. Aperitifs also became very popular in Europe in the late 19th century. Their fame in Europe crossed the Atlantic, and by 1900 they were also commonly served in the United States.

The aperitif later again re-crossed the Atlantic in the 1970s: the habit of a food offering with the purchase of a drink during “Happy Hour” in the United States pushed the development of a more food-heavy aperitif, as well as in Italy. Moreover in Spain and in some countries of Latin America, aperitifs have been a staple of tapas cuisine for centuries.

O U R G U E ST I A N G U S W I N C H E ST E R

TYPES AND STYLES OF APERITIFS Confronted with the vast array of drinks taken as aperitifs, trying to classify them could prove difficult and hazardous; some categorization is nevertheless possible based on the drink’s main ingredient. In this way we can basically split aperitifs into two main types: wine and spirit based aperitifs. As ‘mixologists’ we have created a third category of mixed drinks in the form of aperitifs, and they serve another purpose than the traditional: they require the guest to come to us before they go through to the restaurant.

aperitifs

spirit based

wine based

In addition to these ‘classic’ aperitifs, many cocktails can also be considered or used as aperitifs. But not just any cocktails – when looking at the mixed drink element we see that there are certain characteristics of a drink that appear to work ‘better’ than others.

Firstly, using ‘bubbles’ in a drink is beneficial. The bubbles (via champagne, tonic water or ginger ale for example) almost give a texture to the drink that scrubs the palate, and the carbonation certainly excites the stomach. Secondly, the use of citrus with its inherent sharpness can act in the required way, though be wary of the need to balance the sour with the sweet – but more of that later.

The spirituous (or ‘see through’ so named due to its lack of citrus) can also be a punchy pre-lunch potion. Plus, of course any cocktail that contains either the wine or spirit based ingredients from above is good.

Looking at this rationale one could claim that almost any drink can be an aperitif as long as one does not have too much sugar in it. Sugar in aperitifs coats the tongue (making it less sensitive to taste) and it also quickly fills the stomach. So the right amount of sugar is essential.

Sugar is certainly dandy as a digestif, that’s a whole other matter though… and article actually!

Cheers, Angus Winchester.

D E D I C AT I O N

JAN SAUDEK

D E D I C AT I ON

AT THE BEGINNING OF THE 80s, SAUDEK RECEIVED HIS FIRST BIG PAY CHECK. MONEY MIGHT HAVE BROUGHT A SENSE OF SECURITY TO HIS LIFE BUT NOT PEACE.

rilliant art for some, obscene kitsch for others – that is Jan Saudek’s work in a nutshell. The most celebrated Czech photographer of the present day is famous for his provocative, often erotic, pictures staged in front of a shabby wall, Saudek’s trademark. His unmistakable style is impossible to classify. His is a genre all of its own: simply Saudek.

Fascinated by the opposite sex, he usually portrays more or less nude females of all shapes and sizes, and skinny girls as voluptuous women. The scenarios he creates are often dreamy or grotesque, and at times bordering on pornography, which is why his work has been subject to censorship more than once in the past.

While the world remains mesmerized by his photographs, on the home front he is more of a celebrity than a serious artist. His notso-private life is as controversial as his artwork, but – being a natural showman – he is always ready to play the role of an eccentric ladies’ man. It is no secret that his love for women does not end with the last shot. Saudek himself conservatively estimates the number of his lovers to be more than five hundred (and still counting). Shortly before his 79th birthday he got married for the fourth time, and he often states that the past few years have been the happiest time of his life.

D E D I C AT I ON

Saudek was born in 1935 in Prague as the younger of twins. His mother was Czech and father Jewish; on the whole not the luckiest combo at that time. At the beginning of 1945, Saudek’s father was deported to a concentration camp. The twins were sent to Poland and only narrowly escaped the fate of Doctor Mengele’s guinea pigs. Their father survived, but his six brothers were not so lucky.

Jan hit puberty just as the Communists seized power in Czechoslovakia. At the age of 15 he got a Kodak Baby Brownie, his first camera, and began working in a print shop shortly after that. In 1963 he saw Edward Steichen’s catalogue from the famous Family of Man exhibition which inspired him to pursue the career of a professional photographer, whatever the cost may be.

He entered the 1960s as a newlywed. It was his wife Marie who gave him a Flexaret 6x6, the camera he has been using ever since.

They had two lovely sons, David and Samuel, and a seemingly idyllic family life. The years leading to the Prague Spring were full of hope and regained freedoms. Borders were no longer impenetrable and Saudek could travel to the United States, where he met Hugh Edward, a curator of the Art Institute of Chicago, whose encouragement meant the world to him. The future looked promising…

And then things went downhill. Saudek himself often describes the 70s as the most desperate years of his existence. After having spent many years abroad his little boys did not recognize him and he never had the opportunity to fix things, as Marie, fed up with his affairs, left him and took the kids with her.

The Soviet invasion thwarted political liberation and life in Czechoslovakia was getting back to the former (read: heavily socialist) state of things. Saudek had to move into a cold, wet cellar to avoid the unwanted attention of the secret police. In 1976, both his father and his new partner Veronika died, and Jan attempted to follow them by poisoning himself. Needless to say, he did not succeed.

AS IT OFTEN OCCURS WITH EXCEPTIONAL ARTISTS, THESE MISERABLE YEARS MARK A TURNING POINT IN HIS CAREER.

It was in that mouldy, depressing cellar where he first discovered the Wall, his artistic trademark. While he scraped along living on the verge of poverty in Prague, the West had already taken his pictures to heart.

At the beginning of the 80s, Saudek received his first big pay check.

Money might have brought a sense of security to his life but not peace, at least not for long. Just as before, his life went from one extreme to another, from one day of happiness to another day of depression.

After the Berlin Wall tumbled down in 1989, and the Velvet revolution brought the Communist regime to an end, Saudek, who was already a star abroad, could finally come out and shine in his homeland too.

D E D I C AT I ON

He soon became famous, but the loss of privacy seemed to not bother him as much as the fact that his fellow Czechs were – at best – reluctant to consider his photographs a work of art. Outraged by his work, the public eye zoomed in on his eccentric persona instead: His “weird” manner of talking, his children (at least the ten that he was aware of), his habit of wearing sunglasses everywhere, or his love affairs, particularly the one with Sára.

Sára was the proverbial femme fatale of Jan’s life. They met in 1991, when this young, clever and inexperienced girl appeared on his door step. Over the ten years they lived together she grew into a confident woman, changed her name to Sára Saudek, and became his model and manager. She beamed next to him as if she did not mind the crowds of Jan’s lovers, and maybe she did not.

But then one day she left Jan for his own son Samuel.

Their split was a bit strange even for someone like Jan. Not just because Sára and Samuel got married and had four kids, but also because by then it was she who owned most of his property and – more importantly – the copyright for his works.

Taken aback or not, Jan dealt with this unprecedented situation with a grace of his own. Living in poverty was nothing new for him anyway. He re-established his studio in a little flat Sára left him, stocked up on wine and continued in his quest for the good shot, which – as he always points out – has always been the most important thing.

SEASONING

GO NATURAL OR GO HOME!

SEASONING

hen modern science got its clever little fingers into our food, it changed the way we eat and drink forever; from the modest, simple cuisine of our grandfathers we quickly progressed to some really great stuff that flooded the supermarkets: new tastes, new flavors, and new hedonistic experiences. There is an incredible variety available, but there is also a price to pay: overly-processed, scarily chemically enhanced foodstuffs that virtually would not be recognized by our ancestors as edible or drinkable. And we are not quite sure what it does to us in the long run.

In the past decade, this dependency on artificial ingredients has been widely criticised and, of course, it brought a wave of companies filling the market with more natural products. We are going back to our roots! It’s all about home-made, artisanal, additive-free, home-grown and organic.

This hot new trend has not bypassed the producers of soft drinks.

And so we picked three exceptional makers of their own natural drinkables from Europe to represent this fresh movement on the sugary drinks scene.

SEASONING

DALSTON COLA Great Britain Dalston cola is a cool, fresh British brand producing natural sodas with slightly citrusy and spicy flavor, with sugars of superb quality, and absolutely free of sulphites. We spoke to its director Duncan about the idea and how it all came together for these young hip Londoners.

SEASONING

Duncan, how was the idea of creating your products born? And why did you choose the “natural way”?

The idea for Dalston Cola was born out of the Passing Clouds nightclub (In Dalston, unsurprisingly). They wanted mixers that weren’t made by the big soft drinks producers. The initial concern was ethical; the big companies have taken a lot of flak in the past. That got us researching soft drinks production, and when we found out about how most soft drinks were made, going ‘natural’ and steering away from chemical shortcuts seemed like the only way forward.

A lady called Isabelle Legeron started the Raw Wine Fair the same year that we got going and she invited us along, it was the first (and only) trade fair we’ve done and was an incredible experience. They were big on sulphite free wines and biodynamic wines. Speaking to all these natural wine makers had quite a big impact on us.

What was the most difficult part of the process since the inception to production?

Two main things: 1 - getting the recipes right and consistent! It’s harder to get consistency when using fresh fruit and spices than it is with flavouring compounds. Also, you find out just how varied peoples tastes are when you go outside the norms of what people expect. For a while we had a definite marmite effect with our product but we eventually settled on a recipe which balances intricate flavours with mass appeal.

Do you have any experience with mixing your product into cocktails?

Yes! We are used as a mixer in The Tramshed and we’ve started to be used a lot more as a cocktail mixer. J J Goodmans London Cocktail Club just started stocking us in all of their bars for use in their Long Island Iced Teas – which is a great customer for us both in terms of profile and volume. Bodeans BBQ are about to start stocking us as a long soft drink and for use in their cocktails.

The Mezcaleria bar in Hackney run by Melanie Symonds who has Quiquiriki Mezcal – they’ve been experimenting with our stuff recently and have found that our slightly lower sugar content means the drinks react in cocktails in a totally different way, especially when it comes to layering. Our drinks have quite strong flavours, but they don’t use flavourings and use natural citrus instead (we squeeze it ourselves). For some reason they seem to go very well with premium spirits, which is of course pretty exciting for us. The lemonade also goes very well with Pisco. And the ginger beer and cola was originally developed for use with rum.

Also we were used by Background Bars solely as cocktail mixers at Night Tales in Shoreditch over the winter. It was crazy popular, a really spectacular night market, sort of like a semi-outdoor club with food... very cool.

What is your strategy in competing with competitors on the market? What are you betting on?

This is a good question. When you’re planning on growth you should have several strategies in play at any one time, and about 55 backup plans. Thus far we’ve tried to spread the risk so if one key customer delists us we aren’t completely up the creek, and this is something we will continue – and why we probably wouldn’t approach a multiple/supermarket.

At the moment we’re betting on holding on to manufacturing. Everybody outsources production and it leads to slightly generic products (although Fever Tree tonics are excellent). We recently had one competitor emerge with the same range as us, with funky branding, but they outsource production and I genuinely don’t think their drinks taste half as good as ours (It’s called Karma Cola by the way - give it a try and let me know what you think). By doing this we can keep testing the market reactively; try out new drinks at relatively low cost. A very experienced successful drinks company founder recently spent a morning convincing me that to build manufacturing was financially dangerous, and that it takes time away from sales and marketing which are your most important activities. I’ll admit it pains me that we don’t do much in the way of sales and marketing, but we will hopefully be able to soon, and we love what we do.

If we lost our production capacity we’d lose our connections with our suppliers and our ingredients and that would just seem sad. We actually like making drinks and I think we can build great brands and a great manufacturing operation at the same time. I think this gives us a bit of competitive edge.

At the moment we’re betting a lot on our upcoming move next to Trumans Brewery and the installation of our first automatic bottling line. But it might not happen at all... It’s an exciting time.

What kind of feedback are you getting from your customers?

We’ve actually taken on a lot of feedback and changed the recipes accordingly – which is what you can do when you produce your own products rather than outsourcing. The tiniest and simplest recipe changes have very noticeable effects, 0.5 BRIX or PH in either direction and you will get wildly different reactions.

We have recieved criticism in the past, and we usually contact the person and find out what the problem was and then we figure out if it’s just the palate of one particular consumer or whether it’s a broader change we need to make to the drinks. And we are now getting excellent feedback from our customers!

And what are your plans for the future?

To make more drinks!

SEASONING

HERBERT SYRUPS Slovakia You don’t need to introduce syrups to kids from the post-Soviet block: they all grew up sipping this sweet colorful liquid pretty much since their birth. Then sugary drinks went out of fashion and we forgot all about them: until they were triumphantly brought back

by Herbert.

Within a couple of years the company, with its high quality syrups with quirky flavors, became pretty much the only household name on the market.

The driven man behind this unpretentious young brand from Slovakia describes his rise to glory.

SEASONING

Mario, how was the idea of creating your products born?

The idea struck me about five years ago while I was bartending in London’s Shoredich house where, as is the case in every proud cocktail bar, we were making our own home made syrups. The ingredients we used where always fresh, but the preparation method was quite simple. From that point on I started experimenting with much more sophisticated ways of blending and infusing fresh herbs, spices and fruits, depending on their characteristics. From the very beginning I knew I wanted to use only the finest ingredients, and create honest products; and also stick to the rule “do it as if you were doing it for yourself”. The result now is that we produce premium quality syrups, with all their natural flavours, essentials and nutritional elements intact.

What was the most difficult part of the process since its inception to production?

Probably the whole bureaucracy around legislation. Then it was about finding the right suppliers. Also, I had virtually no budget for the workshop or the heavy equipment, not even a car, so I had to produce everything at home in the kitchen and distribute it by bus, train, through friends, whichever way possible. It was also challenging to be so precise on a larger scale. So basically, nothing was easy, but it was well worth the effort.

Which product are you most proud of?

Oh man! If I had to be fair, then of all of ‘em… They are all different, and there’s a story behind each and every one. I really enjoy situations when someone hesitates to try one of our “weird” combos such as Basil & Green pepper, or Cucumber & Lime, but after the first sip they realize that these ingredients can be used and enjoyed in other ways then just in salads or pasta. I simply love them all and there is more to come in the future.

What is your experience with mixing your product into cocktails?

To be honest, mixing was my prime motivation. Many of our syrups actually have their background in cocktails. For example Lavender & Blueberry syrup was originally made as a L&B Martini, or Thyme & Lemon, originally T&L Whiskey sour, Cucumber & Lime is an amazing base for Gin Fizz, and of course all the other ones are perfectly suitable for refreshing drinks and cocktails. The great thing is if you have a high quality element in the form of a syrup, it’s easy to build the next steps and be creative with a cocktail. Also, what’s no less important is the fact that ready-made syrup helps you to speed up the service, especially during hot summer days and nights, when you don’t want to let your customers wait for too long.

But this does not apply to bartenders only – you can just grab your favorite syrup at home and impress your guests with something delicious at a garden party.

What kind of feedback are you getting from your customers?

I am very happy and grateful to say that our customers truly appreciate the quality of our syrups and our work. Whether it’s a bar or the final buyer at the market stall, they can really tell the difference.

At the moment we produce 10 different flavors, and there are more to come during the spring and summer time. Starting in May we’ll come out with limited editions – Herbal Calendar – depending on which herbs and fruit are in season each month. We also communicate a lot with people: what do they prefer, what would they like us to create and so on.

What are your plans for the future?

At the moment we are still exploring opportunities in our homeland, but we are slowly getting ready to expand into foreign markets as demand picks up. Making macerated natural syrups is just step No.1, there are more things you can look forward to. The bottom line for our company will always be the quality and realness in everything we do. So next time when someone says Herbert Syrups, you can think of a bunch of guys who are passionate about what they do, and who are bringing you a pleasant experience with only the finest ingredients. That is our top priority. Cheers to all of you!

SEASONING

MADE BY THE BARTIST Denmark Humberto Marques, also known as “The Bartist�, views bartending as a true art form, so creativity is an important part of it. He started mixing his own syrups with bartenders in mind; he says he wants to encourage fellow barmen to create their own original concoctions. Until then, you can buy some of his high quality products in his e-shop. The syrups are produced with some of the best syrup makers in France and Portugal, and new flavours are always in the making.

SEASONING

Humberto, how was the idea of creating your products born and why did you choose to go the “natural way”?

The idea came from experimenting with new ingredients during my bartending years in the UK. It all started in 2004 in Edinburgh when I made some eucalyptus syrup for a cocktail. And natural products are simply the best, especially when they don’t have any artificial ingredients or additives. I always wanted my syrups to stand out when it comes to quality.

What was the most difficult part of the process since its inception to production?

I made my own recipes and tested them myself, defining the right ratio of water and sugar, as well as the main ingredient. But I still needed to find an artisanal syrup producer to produce large batches for me, following my recipes, and that was the difficult part.

Which product are you most proud of?

I’m very proud of my eucalyptus syrup, because it is such a versatile product for making cocktails, from adding a twist to lots of classic cocktails to more modern creations. I am also proud of being the first bartender using it or producing it. The most famous cocktail with it was probably the “Eucalyptus Martini” (2004) featured in the Gin Compendium book by Gary Regan.

What is your experience of mixing your products into cocktails?

Absolutely delicious. My syrups add really surprising flavors to the mix.

What are your plans for the future?

I will always be looking to produce new syrups, some flavors that have not yet been done or discovered, but most importantly I will be using my artisanal syrups in my cocktails at my new cocktail bar that I will be opening in April here in Denmark. The bar is going to be called “Curfew” and it will be located in Stenosgade No. 1 in Copenhagen.

What kind of a bar is it going to be? Can you tell us more?

Curfew is going to be a modern speakeasy style bar e.g. the 1920s style that relies as much on aesthetics – low lighting, creaky jazz tunes, braces-wearing bartenders – as it does on cocktails; serious, classic, often bespoke. Curfews were often enacted during the Prohibition time, when speakeasies and gang violence sparked anxieties about the youth, so the name is inspired from that era.

P. S .

“BY THREE METHODS WE MAY LEARN WISDOM: FIRST, BY REFLECTION, WHICH IS NOBLEST; SECOND, BY IMITATION, WHICH IS EASIEST; AND THIRD BY EXPERIENCE, WHICH IS THE BITTEREST.”

Confucius

BOHEMIAN BAR MAGAZINE I/MMXV PUBLISHER Jan Becher - Karlovarská Becherovka, a.s.

EDITOR IN CHIEF George Nemec MANAGING EDITOR Lenka Jíleková PROJECT DIRECTOR Martin Komora, Luboš Rácz EDITOR Lenka Jíleková LANGUAGE EDITING Andrea Pfaundler, Andrew Melia ART DIRECTOR Martin Komora PHOTOGRAPHY George Nemec, Peter Mikuš VIDEO Peter Mikuš

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