Bohemian bar magazine issue 11 en

BOHEMIAN BAR MAGAZINE BOHEMIAN BARTENDER JEFFREY MORGENTHALER INTERVIEW WITH JIM MEEHAN OUR GUEST FRANKIE SOLARIK DEDICATION Mr. SUGAR CUBE

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elcome to edition No. 11 of this bitter-sweet herbal magazine filled with bohemian love, friendship, natural soul and passion.

Do you sometimes ponder time and how to catch it; how to capture it for a moment? How do you manage your time, how do you make it run faster or maybe slower, and is it actually possible?

There are pleasant things in our life, and that’s when we simply wish to stay in the present forever; or at least hold on for a bit.

On the other hand, there are occasions along our journey which we’d rather skip altogether as fast as possible, but this cannot be done. We all live our professional lives, a personal life, family life, or our leisure life, and all of those parts can be touched by either very pleasant things, or very unpleasant ones.

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You can’t slow down time, technically, but you can learn to slow down your perception of time, something we call the “brain time”.

If you learn how to take a step back, to focus your attention, and to break yourself out of your typical routines, then you can slow down your experience of time.

Focus on the little details. You know the theory about us getting older when time flies faster and faster, right? It’s not about us getting older, but rather about us focusing less on details, unfortunately.

When you were a small child, you simply had to pay attention to details, because all things were new to you, and you were learning all about them.

Another example could be a new relationship versus an old one.

In the new one you are focusing on details, as they are all new to you, so your time runs slowly, comfortably and with ease, but once you get into the routine zone, then you start losing focus on the details, and you start feeling like time flies by too fast, and you are suddenly missing out on something.

A dear friend of ours Stanislav Vadrna has been guiding us through the art of being present. Pay attention to your breath and slow down. You do not have to necessarily meditate if you do not want to; just be aware of your breathing. Focus on the details and the little things around you as much as you can, live them all now and try to appreciate them a lot more.

But what about the times when we want to move on, skip forward, or run through time a lot faster?

A long shift at work or something unpleasant happens in your personal life? It’s all about the “brain time” and our perception again. Our brain simply perceives time differently in different situations.

Oftentimes the stimuli that shift our perception are external, such as our environment, while the others are our own responses to activities and data we process from the outside world.

Certain smells can slow down or speed up your time too. If you have a personal problem, have a bath or take a long shower and try to sleep, or entertain yourself: listen to music, go to events you normally do not go to, read a book, get yourself involved in big projects, and get your bum moving whether you feel like it or not.

If you feel bored at work, do not look at your watch every minute!

So the time has come, and we are very happy to bring you new chapters, new articles, faces, and point of views in a bohemian way. We will visit another great cocktail city, and see what bohemian bartenders do with their time in Portland, Oregon.

This time it won’t be only Jeffrey Morgenthaler we visit, but also another great friend of ours, the great Jim Meehan.

We will be asking a lot and writing a lot about mixing up the flavors of life together. And where else to stop by than in such a colorful place with the stunning and very original project called the Tippling Club.

Kamil Foltan (head bartender) and Ryan Clift (Chef & Owner) will talk about pairing flavors, dishes and cocktails.

And do you know how the first sugar cube for your Old Fashioned was invented? It was, of course, in the land of Bohemia!

Read more about the new, the original, the natural and bitter-sweet herbal things in this issue No.11, which was made only for you.

Be a gentle and sensitive manager of your time,

George Nemec International Becherovka Ambassador

B O H E M I A N B A RT E N D E R

JEFFREY MORGENTHALER

B O H E M I A N B A RT E N D E R I J E F F R E Y M O R G E N T H A L E R

“ I’VE ALWAYS DONE MY OWN THING. ”

effrey Morgenthaler is an award winning bartender who currently runs the James Beard Award-nominated bar program at Clyde Common, and the celebrated Pepe Le Moko; both in Portland, Oregon.

Almost two decades on the bar scene made Jeffrey into one of the most sought-after bar experts in the States. He not only works tirelessly behind the stick, he also writes about everything related to drinks, making the subjects meaningful and understandable for bar people and civilians alike.

He authored the first book devoted entirely to cocktail technique, “The Bar Book: Elements of Cocktail Technique”; a must-have for all bartenders. His website jeffreymorgenthaler.com is a go-to resource for product reviews, cocktail recipes, and Jeffrey’s witty musings about bar related topics.

He is accredited for inventing barrel-aging cocktails and bottled cocktail sodas. He is clever, knowledgeable, and always willing to share what he knows with everyone interested.

Jeffrey now continues to push the envelope by promoting the comeback of “cheesy” drinks from the eighties such as the Amaretto Sours and the Long Island Iced Teas. He makes them with the finest ingredients – and an attitude.

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Jeffrey, you have a degree in physics, you studied interior design and baroque architecture. Your science background is obviously helping you (for instance with debunking the many myths bartenders pass down to each other), but how about architecture and design? Do you have an outlet for this passion of yours?

I learned a lot about the design process in school and in the field, so that helps drive a lot of what I do when creating a new menu or putting together a new drinks program. But other than that, it just gave me really nice handwriting.

You love food and cooking. How exactly does it translate into inspiration when it comes to creating drinks?

Cooking at home is what I do to help me relax. It reconnects me to working with flavors and ingredients, and working with my hands.

It keeps me in love with what I do.

At an age where even mainstream media are mocking the pretentious “cocktailians”, you seem to be a proponent of “democratisation of drinking”. So, bringing back “crappy cocktails” – how is it working for you? How are the guests reacting?

I think I’ve been successful because I have never been much for following – I’ve always done my own thing. It took a while for people to understand what we’re doing at Pepe Le Moko, but now that people realize that there is more than one acceptable way to drink, it’s been very popular.

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We’ve even seen you promote a comeback of blended drinks! If you could recommend one blended cocktail to one snobbish cocktail enthusiast, what would it be?

I’ve been drinking blended Negronis all summer. If you’re too “snobby” to appreciate that, I would contest that you don’t really know what you’re talking about at all.

You seem to be very down-to earth when it comes to drinks, you even write a column called “Easy Drinking” for Food Republic (which, by the way, is pretty amazing). Did you yourself undergo a phase of the know-itall, judging-and-schooling bartender?

Nah. I might have been a little more uptight when I was younger, but I’ve never been a know-it-all or particularly judgmental behind the bar. I don’t think a lot of those people know as much as I do about this stuff, and acting pretentious helps hide their insecurities.

What is important to you in your job and career; what drives you? And if there was one thing people could remember you for, what would you want it to be?

Teaching drives me. My mother was a teacher, so I’d like to be remembered as a guy who worked endlessly to teach others how to do what I do.

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Do you enjoy bartenders’ functions and trade shows?

Usually not. I’ll be speaking at the Bar Convent Berlin this year, which I really enjoy. But most of the other events are just too much drinking and partying for me. I’d rather be at home cooking.

Is there something that bothers you when you see young bartenders?

Nah. I live and let live.

One piece of advice for the young‘uns who want to make it in the business (and preferably make good money, too): Get a really good, comfortable pair of shoes, read everything you can, and don’t be an asshole.

What is your relationship with Becherovka?

We love working with (and drinking!) Becherovka at our bar all year round. But we’re especially enamored with it during the Fall and Winter, when the beautiful, sweet clove and cinnamon flavors are mixed with all manner of whiskey, apple cider, and fresh citrus juices. No bar would be complete without it.

PÉPÉ LE MOKO 407 S W 10 T H AV E P O RT L A N D, O R E G O N

CLYDE COMMON 1014 S W STA R K ST P O RT L A N D, O R E G O N

I N N OVAT I O N

THE PERFECT BAR BOOTH

I N N OVAT I O N

OWNER OF SEVERAL BARS, INCLUDING THE ANVIL BAR & REFUGE IN HOUSTON, TEXAS, A JAMES BEARD AWARD NOMINATED BARTENDER, TEQUILA LOVER, AND A THINKING MAN.

e single-handedly revived and energised the Houston bar scene, and continues to think up clever ways to make bars and bar guests’ experience better.

Bobby tirelessly helps communities, he is vocal about important issues, and is a true leader. His restaurant OKRA Charity Saloon gives 100% of the profits to charities, while the diners themselves choose which cause the money goes to.

Bobby is also into smart bar design, and he dreamt up and created this impeccable seating in Anvil.

“I spent a lot of time thinking about these booths. They’re perfect for a nightclub, just perfect.

They can fit up to five or six who want to pack it in on a crowded Friday, or two comfortably on a slow Tuesday. No bases other than a pole, so people can easily swing around the booth’s curve. Takes up minimal space. No good or bad seat in the booth.

Sits on a ten inch deck which the pole runs into, making it stable.

The height also raises the level of the guest slightly below the bar stool level or the average height of a guest walking by. Copper table top. I love bar design and think about it constantly.”

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TIPPLING CLUB IT’S ALL ABOUT THE TASTE

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ingapore’s Tippling Club gained its reputation not only for its superb upscale dining, but also for its amazing bar – in 2013 The World’s 50 Best Bars named it amongst the top drinking establishments in the world.

With their recent move to a new location, the restaurant spanning three shophouse units now features a bar, a dining room and an upstairs private dining room. At this new location, Tippling Club continues to pair its award-winning cuisine with world-class cocktails, pushing the extremes of ingredients and textures to create an ever-evolving dining experience.

Tippling Club’s Chef and owner Ryan Clift closely cooperates with the head bartender Kamil Foltán, so they can together provide their guests with a unique opportunity to enjoy a truly unbeatable night.

“ THERE IS NO ONE FORMULA FOR A PERFECT PAIRING. ” ~ Kamil Foltán

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RYAN CLIFT The Chef & Owner Tippling Club, Singapore

What was the moment you fell in love with food pairing?

When I first started cooking decades ago, I was fascinated by all the different textures, flavours and techniques you could play with. Understanding food and drink pairings is essential for any chef. When we started pairing food and cocktails that opened up a whole new world.

What is needed in order to be good at food pairing?

Lots of dedication and hard work, and understanding the natural flavours and provenance of every ingredient. My team and I spend many hours every week testing new combinations until we get the pairings right, that’s how we got our hard-earned reputation.

Do you see food pairing as a fashion trend, or do you think mixing drinks with food has got strong enough status in communities around the world?

I think it’s great that people are starting to view pairings as essential to a great dining experience. We’ve definitely reached new levels in food and drink pairings.

What is your suggested formula for food pairing?

What’s the ideal balance for you?

It changes every time and we’re constantly making tweaks to existing recipes. We always keep in mind the flavours and ingredients of the dishes and cocktails, as well as the techniques used for them.

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KAMIL FOLTĂ N The Head Bartender Tippling Club, Singapore

What was the moment you fell in love with food pairing?

I grew up helping my parents around the kitchen, especially when we had lots of barbecues and outdoor cooking activities. My father always had different types of beers to try with the food we cooked and I was encouraged to take ‘cheeky sips’ of them while we ate. It really made me develop an interest in how drinks complement food.

What is needed in order to be good at food pairing?

Which skills or talents are useful?

You need to be able to really understand the products you work with and respect them the way they are. The approach is different all the time. The flavours don’t necessarily have to complement or contrast each other. A cocktail can offer an entirely new flavour profile to a dish and give it more depth – acting more as a sauce or gravy, so to speak.

Do you see food pairing as a fashion trend, or do you think mixing drinks with food has got strong enough status in communities around the world?

I’ve never felt that food pairing was a fad. We’ve been pairing food and wine for centuries, and many classic wine pairings today are a result of the evolution of that culture. In the same way, we’re exploring new food and drink pairings as customers increasingly look for new experiences and their palates are much more mature.

What is your suggested formula for food pairing?

Stronger drink, followed by a lighter dish? Or the other way around? What’s the ideal balance for you?

There is no one formula for a perfect pairing as every dish and cocktail has a different flavour profile and preparation method, among many other factors. The most important consideration for me is to enhance certain flavours and provide unique flavour combinations for our guests.

Do you have a truly heavenly experience with food + drinks yourself?

This is a tricky one! I’ve visited many places with great food and drink programmes. If I had to choose, it would be the special dinner the guys threw to welcome me to the team here at the Tippling Club. It showcased a range of wines, sakes and cocktails during the dinner with truly unexpected flavours and textures.

What are the elements you like about Becherovka in terms of tasting notes?

I love its diversity. It can be used as a cocktail base, served straight up as a chilled shot, or added to drinks and desserts for a bittersweet touch to enhance flavours. My favourite way to drink it is simply in a classic gin & tonic, as a replacement for gin. In the words of my grandma, “A little glass of Becherovka every morning and you’ll never get sick.”

Can you give us three combinations of a Becherovka cocktail and a Tippling Club dish?

1) Classic Becherovka Sour (Becherovka, citrus, egg white and honey shaken and strained into a chilled sour glass) paired with our selection of sweet treats at the bar.

2) Karl’s Fizz (Becherovka, gin, lemon, sugar and mint topped up with soda). It’s very refreshing with a hint of herbal spiciness from the Becherovka, best paired with Charred Peppers with Soy and Wasabi, one of our bar snacks.

3) Can You Afford It? (Becherovka, chamomile vermouth, citrus, Krug Champagne) is a dry champagne cocktail. Floral, not too sweet, great with most dishes and the perfect celebratory tipple.

Can your dish perhaps open other flavours of Becherovka / Becherovka cocktail?

Certain ingredients such as jamón ibérico and sea bream enhance the herbal notes of Becherovka, which are usually less prominent on the first sip. Likewise, the Becherovka can highlight the rich, savoury flavours of jamón ibérico and the fresh, delicate sea bream.

Are there any top five nuances/ingredients paired in perfect combination with Becherovka’s main tasting notes?

Chamomile tea, sea bream, lavender-infused honey, green tea and jamón ibérico.

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JIM MEEHAN “ IT’S A HUGE SOURCE OF MOTIVATION TO HEAR THAT MY WORK INSPIRES OTHERS. ”

I N T E RV I E W I J I M M E E H A N

he admired bartender and journalist Jim Meehan was born in Chicago and schooled in Wisconsin, where he also started out by making drinks in a college bar. He then continued to work his way up from simple crowded drinking dens to the most respected bars in New York.

Jim has worked with Eben Freeman at wd-50 and with Audrey Saunders at Pegu Club. He later opened his own super famous establishment in the East Village. The legendary speakeasy Please Don’t Tell became one of the top must-visit spots on the bar map of the world, along with collecting numerous awards and accolades.

In 2007, Jim was named a StarChefs.com New York Rising Star Mixologist.

His book, The PDT Cocktail Book: The Complete Bartender’s Guide from the Celebrated Speakeasy, was mentioned by The New York Times as “the most buzzed-about cocktail guide in the country”; and earlier this year, Jim was awarded the first ever James Beard Award, the highest honor for food and beverage professionals in America for his Outstanding Bar Program. He has authored a cool cocktail app called PDT Cocktails. (You can find it in the Apple App Store.)

Jim’s recent move to Portland, Oregon meant that he brought all his experience and expertise onto a completely different bar scene; but Jim Meehan doesn’t need a lot of time to figure things out. He now focuses not only on his family, but also on training bartenders all over the US, as well as working on a new book.

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Jim, how do you feel about being a role model? Many bartenders quote you as their inspiration…

It’s a huge source of motivation to hear that my work inspires others. I recall hearing someone describe leadership as “lonely”. I agree, but it’s also deeply gratifying, and something I’d never willingly give up.

How did you feel about winning a James Beard Award?

I saw one (the medal) for the first time when I moved to NYC and always wondered if they would offer one to bars or bartenders one day. Winning the first one was unbelievable! I’ll always be grateful for that.

How important are awards to a bartender?

Tending bar, or running them for that matter, is a process-oriented occupation. You’re only as good as the last guest you served.

I’d be lying if I told you my accolades weren’t important to me personally, but they only place more pressure on me to live up to them. I’ve seen awards propel recipients to new heights, and weigh others down like kryptonite because they let them go to their head. It’s all relative.

I N T E RV I E W I J I M M E E H A N

You have travelled more than most US bartenders... what have you seen that impressed you?

I’m always surprised by the hospitality I receive in bars around the world. Despite differences in culture, language barriers, and different rules governing operations, I’m always amazed by how similar we bartenders are.

How do you manage to travel 380 days per year, and keep your family happy and yourself motivated?

I love my job, so it’s easy to stay motivated and connected with friends, as most work in the business. The biggest challenge is finding balance between taking care of myself and devoting enough time to my family. It’s important to remember that you can’t take care of others without taking care of yourself, so sometimes you have to slow down.

How important is marketing of individual bartenders in todays’ world? It looks like marketing of individuals is rising more and more. Is it necessary? And where are the limits?

While bars and restaurants don’t compete against each other directly, bartenders do in an increasing number of highly publicized competitions. Many of the competitions are great showcases for individual talent, but winning a competition doesn’t make you a better team player. As long as we remember that individual accolades are less meaningful than the success of the team, I don’t see any problem celebrating our best bartenders.

Restaurants and bar staff are like sports teams: we have our own version of captains, star players, role players, coaches, owners and trainers. Many follow teams, or go to bars, because they’re enamoured with one of the better players. I think this is fine, but it’s important to remember that a player wouldn’t be as successful without the team.

How do you feel about Craft Spirits?

The term craft has been misappropriated in the U.S. so it ceases to mean much anymore. With that said, it’s exciting to see so many new spirits producers. Diversity is a good thing: especially when quality isn’t compromised.

What comes to your mind when you hear the term MIXIBILITY? Ha, sounds like a marketing term! An accomplished bartender should be able to mix just about anything into a reasonably delicious drink. Oftentimes, the most challenging (least mixable) ingredients yield the most pleasure for maker and imbiber.

Is there anything on the current bar scene you are truly excited about?

The bar scene is always changing, and I’m always trying to stay one step ahead. I’d say the availability of good tools, and innovation that’s led to better ones, year after year is very exciting. You used to have to travel with a full kit, and now you can leave it behind!

If for whatever reason you could not work in the bars anymore, what is the one field of work you would be attracted to?

I spend a lot of time writing, and would probably devote the balance to it. I’m far from a natural, but I respect the process and always enjoy the cheap thrill of seeing my name in print.

RE T RO

G N ST U D I O

FRUITS OF PASSION

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PASSION IS SOMETHING THAT CAN’T BE TAUGHT, RIGHT? PASSION MUST COME STRAIGHT FROM YOUR HEART.

assion is one of the most important elements of our Bohemian Bar Club concept. It’s also something the family of Jan Becher, the creators of Becherovka, would not survive without; and they certainly would not be as successful for hundreds of years.

Passion shows most clearly through your skills, your work etiquette, and finally, your results.

Another two crucial characteristics of true bar professionals (but also characteristics of the Becher’s family) are of course knowledge and individual approach. But let’s leave those two for now, and let’s get a closer look at what passion means to me.

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Passion is usually a long lasting story. The most common passion we can have in our life is passion towards someone precious to us; or passion for certain philosophy or values, while those values are shaping our way of thinking, acting and behaving. Passion is something so strong, that we are able to put our friends, our need for sleep and food, or our usual habits aside. Passion can bring us to interesting places or situations, which can only be appreciated by the one who possesses the passion. If we have a passion, we are able to spend a fortune on it, or walk through unbelievable obstacles. For us, the carriers of passion, nothing is a problem, and nothing is too difficult.

You can have loads of money, or an amazing investor for your bar opening at the best spot in town, but does it really matter, when you and your staff feel no passion?

Whether you are sitting at home by the fire on top of a pillow full of bank notes or whether you are counting every penny because you just opened your very own tiny bar, remember one thing folks: passion is very healthy, so don’t be afraid of it and accept it with open arms. Passion can be an endless source of energy, perseverance and will.

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PASSION IN PROFESSIONAL LIFE

My personal passion for bars and traveling brought me in 2001 over to the other side of the world – to Sydney, Australia.

Of course I had to sacrifice many things in my life, but the passion was stronger, and eventually it won over my comfort zones and routines. Many times, when I was having a really hard time (and it happened often at the beginning of my journey) I was questioning myself: “Why the hell are you doing this buddy?”

The answer to that was difficult, yet quite simple. “It’s just passion for what you do, and what you want to achieve, nothing else, just passion!”

I am pretty sure that every single one of you has done or is currently doing things not only because of money, but also because of love and passion. Can you imagine not having passion for something? Just how empty can a person feel inside?

How many almost sleepless nights did you have, and how many heart-breaking relationships did it cost you to love what you do and to keep pursuing it?

My personal inspiration, someone of a bohemian mind and someone with an endless source of passion is Sherlock Holmes.

Doyle described him as an incredible specialist in his field, a tireless researcher, an artist, a man with his own style, who is not looking to the left or to the right; he always marches on, powered by his intuition and passion. A similar story is connected to Karlovy Vary and to the creators of the secret Becherovka formula – Josef Vitus Becher and Dr. Frobrig. Their passion for chemistry, herbs and spices research was endless.

This is why it took several years until they considered the recipe for Becherovka to be finalized. They tirelessly worked together and separately, experimenting, playing with herbs and spices, tuning an tweaking the formula until its perfection.

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PASSION IN A COCKTAIL

And how would I use my passion in a bohemian mixture with Becherovka? Well, when I think of passion, then words and ingredients like honey, elderflower, cherries or grape wine come up.

From tropical islands it would be perhaps the fruit of hospitality, a pineapple, or a pomegranate, or a citrus fruit, as passion can be sometimes slightly sour or a little bitter. There is perhaps an endless array of combinations and possibilities while creating the perfect drink filled with passion. I will share one with you, a very simple one, but passion in this one is real, and it is mine. Let’s take a look…

It’s a combination of Becherovka, a spirit created over 200 years ago, where passions from the family of Jan Becher came together in this beautiful creation. Passion can be sour sometimes as I already mentioned, so I will be adding something tangy in it as well.

From the fruits of passion above I picked elderflower, a great combo which works well not only with Becherovka’s herbs and spices, but also with my other ingredients.

And the number three ingredient will be pineapple. Fruit of hospitality, but also one of the most common fruits in the streets of Shanghai, where I lived and worked for four years, right after my Australian experience.

I use a cucumber garnish which I mastered in Sydney – I learned it from one of the most passionate local sushi chefs. In the following short picture story I will also share with you how you can create this cucumber dragonfly yourself.

O U R G U E ST

FRANKIE SOLARIK “ HARD WORK AND PASSION ARE THE KEY TO SUCCESS IN ANY FORUM. ”

O U R G U E ST I F R A N K I E S O L A R I K

he co-owner of Toronto’s popular bar BarChef – rated by Food and Wine magazine as one of the Top seven new and innovative bars in the world – Frankie Solarik is a true pioneer of the progressive and contemporary approach to cocktails.

Solarik isn’t just changing the way drinks are made; he’s changing the way cocktails are perceived in general, by applying the same detail and passion to preparing cocktails as a food chef would to haute cuisine. His visually stunning creations provide an unparalleled experience to the captivated customers of his extremely sought-after bar.

He is trying to present each drink as a dish, by striving to compose cocktails with the same visual, visceral and taste appeal and complexity that is possible with food. Solarik successfully challenges the conventional thought as to what’s possible within the medium of a glass.

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He has been profiled in major international magazines, newspapers and TV, as well as a guest judge on The Food Network’s “Top Chef Canada”. He has authored a beautiful and informative book “Bar Chef” with detailed recipes, shedding some light on the creative process behind his cocktails, introducing his unique work to passionate bar geeks all over the world.

“ IT’S ALSO VERY IMPORTANT TO ALWAYS BE OPEN MINDED AND ACCEPTING OF CRITIQUE. ”

Frankie began bartending when he was 18 years old in a cigar bar, it was there that his interest began in flavor and aromatics, flavor paring and nuances of flavor that can be found in particular vehicles of food and drink.

“I found it very interesting how guests would be able to pick out notes of chocolate, oak, vanilla, damp moss, spice, etc. from the pairing of cigars and scotches, ports or cognacs.

My personality has always been extremely driven, so I decided that I wanted to create an experience for my guests that they cannot have anywhere else. I want to give the guest an opportunity through the use of aromatics and flavor to have a very special emotional experience,” he explains.

O U R G U E ST I F R A N K I E S O L A R I K

Frankie Solarik always viewed the trade a little bit differently – he was trying to incorporate ingredients from the kitchen like spices and herbs, and at his bartending job at the time he would go into the kitchen to prepare infusions and syrups.

When he opened BarChef, the concept was aimed at reducing the limitations from an employer and at providing full freedom and creativity for the cocktail program, which would allow him to create a new expression and experience for the guest. While doing renovations for the space Frankie came across a video of Anthony Bourdain visiting El Bulli with Chef Ferran Adria: “His facial expressions and reactions to the dishes during his meal there changed my life, and it really clicked for me; that was the experience I wanted to provide for my guests. I immediately ordered all the ingredients from Texturas, and I began experimenting at home.”

The guests’ experience has always been the most important ingredient for his compositions. “I do what I do to create a multi-sensory, emotional and visceral experience for the guest. Part of the desired outcome for the guest is to be presented with something out of the general comfort zone, maybe introduced to a new texture, or aroma – the idea is to excite the guest and translate your love, hard work and passion for what you do artistically into an experience for your guests.”

When it comes to the creative work with the cocktail program at the bar, Frankie prefers to work with a clear vision. His style of cocktails is very specific, and therefore the inspiration and the process itself is a very personal journey; there is usually a very specific direction of creative expression for the new pieces he is working on. Frankie adds: “It’s also very important to always be open minded and accepting of critique, and other people’s ideas.

My Sous Chef Ilya Khalyapin has been working very hard, and is doing a tremendous job at executing and maintaining my standards when I am not in the kitchen.”

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WHAT DOES FRANKIE THINK OF FIRST WHEN ASKED ABOUT MIXIBILITY? “Flavor pairing. It seems

ents just to do so, but it just

At the end of the day, re-

to be a common trend and

never works. Good flavor

gardless of how crazy or

a problem nowadays for

pairing is key. Build a ref-

beautiful the presen-

people behind the bar – to

erence of flavors and aro-

tation is, it must first

purposely throw together

mas that pair well together

and foremost taste

the most obscure ingredi-

and work from there.

amazing.”

The crucial ingredient for working at BarChef is passion. Frankie makes it clear: “As we always say, you cannot teach passion, so it is very important to us that everyone on our team is truly passionate and excited to be there. Hard work and passion are the key to success in any forum.”

Team work is also key, and all the members of the team work extremely hard. Frankie’s business partner Brent VanderVeen has always shared Frankie’s love and vision for BarChef, and they both want the guest to truly feel this when they walk through the doors.

Frankie professes his total obsession with what he does; he is always fascinated with the creative process, from the initial inspiration and the detailed concept, to the finished piece.

“It’s an exciting and magical journey for me, and I truly enjoy capturing a specific moment or inspiration, and reformatting that inspiration into a tangible object for my guests.”

There is a very specific aesthetic to each one of his pieces: first the visual element, the color, depth, and the texture; he composes as you would a painting, the flavor as it could be perceived through color, aroma and texture.

Solarik’s inspiration comes from all sorts of places. Nature is always a fascinating reference for him; a lot of his pieces are inspired by natural compositions, flavors, ingredients, aromas and experiences; for example, the “Spring Thaw” which recreates that wonderful moment of walking through a forest, just as the thaw of winter occurs with the smell of damp soil, colors, and the blossoming of flowers and plants. The complete opposite can be found in the “Abstract Ice”; where the focus is on an idea of completely challenging our perspective of flavor. It is frozen with different textures and melting points of different ingredients, and presented as “ice”; like “frozen rhubarb paper”, “black licorice shards”, and “frozen cucumber vessels”.

His most current piece, which will be released in fall called the “Night Blossom”, is recreating a beautiful blossoming tree Solarik came across one evening. He took a picture of it and began to work on the piece the following day.

D E D I C AT I O N

Mr. SUGAR CUBE

D E D I C AT I ON

WHERE DO SUGAR CUBES COME FROM? WHO CAME UP WITH THE IDEAL, NEAT SHAPE FOR OUR COFFEE AND TEA SWEETENER; THE PERFECT RECTANGULAR PACKAGE THAT’S SO PLEASANT TO TOUCH AND SIGHT?

ugar was traditionally sold to households in the form of hard rocks or loaves, which had to dry for long periods of time, and were difficult to package and to manipulate with. The large rocks then had to be hacked and chopped into smaller pieces, and the process was not only arduous, but also held its dangers, making one good woman very upset. When Juliana Radova cut her hand while trying to piece a sugar loaf into small chunks, she wasn’t having it anymore – she asked her husband Krystof to come up with something better. It is said that she was the one who suggested the idea of tiny cubes.

Jakub Krystof Rad, a Swiss physician and sugar refinery manager of Czech origin, created a machine he had had patented in 1843 - a specialised press which produced beautiful, identical cubes of sugar. Rad managed a local Czech sugar factory in the town of Dacice, where his discovery was first produced and then shipped to many places. Factories around the world followed suit, and soon enough no woman needed a machete to sweeten her afternoon tea.

D E D I C AT I ON

Sugar cubes were later sold in Vienna as “tea sugar”, they came in boxes of 250 pieces and cost 50 kreuzers. Modernized version of Rad’s machine is still used to produce sugar cubes to this day.

Sugar cubes were later associated with the use of various medicinals, making the bitter taste much easier to go down. And some 60’s contemporaries may remember the infamous “acid cube”, served to aficionados liberally laced with LSD. After WWII, the invention of simple sugar packets made of paper allowed to cut the manufacturing price of sugar cubes to one half. The packets were perhaps less romantic, but definitely more hygienic, and after they became printed with ads, they created an unprecedented opportunity for relatively cheap marketing. The days of the sugar cube were numbered.

When the modern sugar sachets spread like wildfire, effectively pushing the cube out of the market, the poor cube became almost extinct, only to be rediscovered with the current history-loving trend sweeping the world of bars and restaurants. Sugar cubes were always to be kept in beautiful jars, and were meant to be picked out not with hands, but with the use of elegant tongs. You can now come across this charming relic in upscale and old-school bars and restaurants, all with fancy porcelain sugar bowls and silver tongs; and in line with the “back to nature” fashion, the cubes are more rustic, less cube-y, and often made of brown sugar.

D E D I C AT I ON

The sugar cube fascinates some artists to this day, and for Liz and Kyle von Hasseln, the designers from The Sugar Lab, it became an inspiration to create their own cool “cubes”, using the 3D printer.

The result is as mesmerising as a close-up of snowflakes: these stunning and intricate sugar creations are almost too beautiful to just dunk into coffee.

It’s actually pretty easy to make your own sugar cubes – even though they might not be as beautiful as the ones by the Hasselns – and the actual prep time is only a few minutes! It also allows you to either color the cubes or infuse them with various scents or flavors, from vanilla or cinnamon, to bitters and syrups or booze of your choice. You can even play with different types of sugar and use either refined white sugar, or opt for your preferred shade of brownness found in demerara or muscovado sugars.

Mix granulated sugar with water, until the mixture is crumbly and wet, but not soppy.

Firmly press into a tray or candy mold. Let it dry for at least ten hours and voila - your very own sugar cubes can now grace your original drinks!

SEASONING

THE MODERN HERBALISTS

SEASONING

árka Hurdálková and Andrej Minárik are young freelancers, who made the courageous move from a city to the tiny mountain town of Banská Štiavnica, Slovakia to fulfil their dream and open a coworking space.

This magical highland region at the heart of Europe is full of intriguing vegetation, so when they’re not running their business, they are undoubtedly browsing meadows, picking botanicals and making herbal teas, syrups and potions.

We spoke to these supercool herb aficionados about modern herbalism, discerning and collecting plants, and utilising their edible and healing properties in today’s world.

SEASONING

How did you first get into the world of herbs?

Andrej: With me it started in my childhood, with walks through the Stiavnicke vrchy meadows. My grandmother knows a lot about herbs and she’d teach me by showing me how to tell herbs apart, pick and dry them. It somehow stayed with me till now. Herbal tea in the winter is unbeatable in my book. Šárka: My love for herbs was also planted by my grandma, who probably knew all the flowers of the world. When I got older, I got my hands on a book about growing and using herbs, and I was hooked.

Where did you learn from? Š: I am mostly self-taught. I learn from books and also from the Internet. If someone wants to start studying herbs, their best bet is buying a proper illustrated book on herbs.

Is it possible to collect herbs for basic medicinal or kitchen use without the years of study?

A: Collecting and either drying or directly using the basic herbs can be done by pretty much anyone. Peppermint, sage, wild thyme, lemon balm - those are all easily recognisable classics and their use is not astrophysics either. Š: Getting to those more rare herbs requires some study though.

Simply because discovering them usually takes more time and effort.

What should people be wary of? Š: Aside from the danger of mixing up the various types (a typical example would be mistaking the healing field horsetail for the poisonous wood horsetail), it’s also important to be mindful of the drying process and proper storage. Each herb requires specific care.

Some can be dried in direct sun, some require shadow. Wrong type of storage can also result in tasteless, scent-less “hay”.

The best time to pick herbs is usually mid-morning, when the dew on the plants has already evaporated, thus the possibility of mould development on your batch is lower.

A: Using a plastic bag for picking plants is not the best idea! Cotton bags are perfect for carrying freshly plucked herbs. Pick only healthy, strong plants without signs of rotting or disease. Also, just like with mushrooms, the plants growing in close proximity to highways will have a high lead content and should be avoided.

When picking herbs, it’s not necessary to destroy the whole plant – try to clip off just a portion and leave the rest to flourish for the future.

What do you use herbs for?

A: I use them mostly in herbal teas, but I’ve done some medicinal potions as well. Š: I am crazy about herbal syrups. And then cooking, of course, and as medicinal support when I’m sick. Rose hip tea is great for preventing colds, and it’s wonderful to drink throughout all autumn.

Do you have any favourites?

A: Mint and lemon balm. I used to love sage, but it seems to be hard to find it nowadays. Š: For me it’s mostly cooking herbs, particularly thyme and basil.

And elderflower and basswood flowers.

Are there any herbs that are unique to our region (Czech Republic and Slovakia)? Š: I don’t think there are herbs you cannot find anywhere else, but then again, I’m not a botanist. We can talk about areas not widely inhabited by certain herbs, as the conditions are not suitable.

For instance, wild garlic needs a lot of humidity, and lemon balm thrives in drier, sunnier spots. This goes for soil types as well, but many herbs are grateful for any kind of soil and will grow almost anywhere – for instance the aforementioned elder, basswood, buckhorn, as well as many others.

Is there a particularly cool herb people don’t really know about?

A: We actually just recently discovered fireweed, a beautiful, widely spread plant that grows even in Alaska, but people rarely know of it and its fantastic medicinal capabilities. In the past it was utilised by Native Americans and also in Russia; it helps to heal cuts and contains loads of vitamins. It’s unfortunately largely forgotten nowadays.

What would be your advice for people who want to grow herbs at home? Š: The proper placing of flower pots is maybe more important than correct watering. Not all plants can take direct sunlight, while some require it. If you want to grow a specific herb at home, always try to search for this type of information – you can most certainly find it on the internet.

We mostly pick herbs in nature, and at home we have them in pots and don’t use any fertiliser, so they usually don’t survive winters.

SEASONING

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SEASONING

How can we protect herbs from diseases? Š: First and foremost, buy healthy plants and follow the instructions for their care. A healthy plant does not get attacked by pests easily. When you already spot some aphis but want to avoid chemical insecticide, a common ladybug or earwig can help. Both these insects feed on aphis.

A great preventive move is to plant flowers that directly repel pests or diseases – marigold deters aphis, nasturtium works against some types of moulds, and so on.

Can you tell us more about the usage of fresh vs. dried herbs? Š: Definitely fresh! Their aroma and taste is far more intense. Dried herbs are just an out of season necessity.

A good idea can also be to freeze fresh herbs in oil in ice cube trays, and use them for cooking all year long – their flavour is really similar to the fresh stuff.

Is it worth buying prepackaged herbs in a supermarket, if we’re looking for the medicinal properties?

A: I guess the packaged seeds are okay, but fresh-cut herbs in plastic boxes are quite useless. The ones you can buy in pots are somewhere in between, but they most probably did not enjoy a lot of sun in a meadow. Š: For me the question comes down to ethical shopping. Why buy accelerated herbs in a supermarket, when they don’t live long, and after you plant them into proper pots they die anyway? You can get the same thing from a local farmer, but it’s a strong, healthy plant that will last several seasons, and it’s just a tiny bit more expensive!

So I’d say a resolute no to prepackaged herbs.

Is there a herb in our region with truly amazing healing properties?

A: For example buckhorn – it’s pretty much a weed that grows everywhere, and you can make potent ointments, syrups and all sorts of healing potions from it.

How about edible herbs? It seems they are not as widely known as they should be… Š: That’s true! There’s plenty of herbs growing wildly all around us but people have no idea they are edible. Wild garlic got its well-deserved attention recently; you can buy it at every farmer’s market in spring. Lesser known is a plant called garden nasturtium, which actually grows in gardens all over the place for its beautiful flower.

It has a pleasant zingy taste and it works pretty amazingly in salads.

Common daisies could be eaten as well, just like borage (starflower) with its cucumber-like taste. Confectioners appreciate violet flowers; they use them to decorate cakes or chocolate. And we could go on: field pansy is stunning in salads, orchid petals can be used as a cool garnish for cocktails…

How do we store herbs so they last as long as possible let’s say, in a bar? Š: If we’re talking about already cut off herbs, they’ll thrive in a cold place for a while, and a good trick is to shorten their stalks and get rid of the wilted or spoilt bits. The remaining parts can be put into a glass with a bit of water, and covered with a plastic bag before being stored in a fridge. Check in on the herbs every couple of days, and repeat the process of throwing out the “weaker” pieces.

Dried herbs just need to stay dry, so make sure the container is covered, and you can enjoy them for up to five years.

Can you share a simple herbal recipe with us?

A: Summers are great for just throwing some mint, strawberry leaves or thyme into water, and letting it marinate. They add a lovely touch of flavour to the water. Š: I love herbal syrups, they’re wonderful as a base for lemonades.

You can use the same recipe to process all sorts of herbs, including mint, sage, or the very popular elderflower. First boil one litre of water and let it cool down. Then add the herbs (approximately 2 to 3 fistfuls of smaller flowers) and let them marinate over night.

The next day strain the liquid through a piece of cloth, add juice of one lemon, a half a kilo to a kilo of sugar (depending on preferred sweetness), and bring to boil.

P. S .

“ MIXING ONE’S WINES MAY BE A MISTAKE, BUT OLD AND NEW WISDOM MIX ADMIRABLY. ” Bertold Brecht

BOHEMIAN BAR MAGAZINE II/MMXV PUBLISHER Jan Becher - Karlovarská Becherovka, a.s.

EDITOR IN CHIEF George Nemec MANAGING EDITOR Lenka Jíleková PROJECT DIRECTOR Martin Komora, Luboš Rácz EDITOR Lenka Jíleková LANGUAGE EDITING Аndrea Pfaundler ART DIRECTION Мartin Komora PHOTOGRAPHY Ryan Ffrench, Leanne Neufeld, Jana Martišková, George Nemec, Lubo Balko VIDEO Ryan Ffrench

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“ WHEN PICKING HERBS, IT’S NOT NECESSARY TO DESTROY THE WHOLE PLANT – TRY TO CLIP OFF JUST A PORTION AND LEAVE THE REST TO FLOURISH FOR THE FUTURE. “