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MEN / WOMEN
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LEVI’S® VINTAGE CLOTHING
MEN / WOMEN
Faithfully capturing the spirit & heritage of American work wear, Levi’s® Vintage Clothing reproduces the fits, fabrics and details of bygone eras. Our source material is our own archive and our inspiration is the hardworking men and women that the Levi’s® Brand has equipped for the last 140 years. Through our seasonal tribute collections, iconic reissues and special editions, we relive our treasured history and offer timeless products to discerning connoisseurs that are as obsessed with it as we are.
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THE LEVI’S® ARCHIVES
MEN / WOMEN
Safely preserved in a vault deep inside our headquarters in San Francisco lies an archive of over 20,000 rare and unique examples of Levi’s® clothing and artifacts dating back to as early as 1873. Kept at an even temperature and wrapped in unbleached cotton, these delicate specimens are carefully protected by the Levi’s® Historian and strictly reserved for the use of our designers. Each season, our team pours through the archives with whitegloved hands, uncovering the secrets of our past and then bringing them back into the world through faithful reproductions that are as fresh now as they were back then.
THE HISTORIC 501’S®
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MEN / WOMEN
Since introducing its iconic riveted denim jean over a century ago, Levi’s® has periodically tweaked the fit, fabric and features of the 501® to suit the needs and preferences of the modern worker. Although oftentimes subtle and only apparent to the discerning eye, the differences between the historic 501’s® help tell the story of the Levi’s® brand and the ever-evolving landscape of the American frontier. Levi’s® Vintage Clothing reproduces each of the most historically significant 501’s® from the past 122 years exactly as they were when they were first introduced. Every last detail — including the fabric, fit, sundries and even packaging — are obsessively recreated so that today’s fanatics can purchase and wear a pair of Historic 501’s® as if they were living in a bygone era.
1890
A Loose, Anti-Fit Waist Overall
1922
A High Waisted, Wide Leg Fit
1933
A Wide, And Relaxed Fit
1937
A Relaxed Fit, Rounded Top Block And Straight Leg
1944
A High Waisted, Regular Fit
1947
The Classic Slim Fit With A Straight Leg
1954
A Narrow Tapered Leg And A Zip Fly
1955
A Square Top Block And A Straight Leg
1966
A Rounded Top Block And A Tapered Leg
1978
A Slim Fit, Square Top Block And Low Rise
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REPRODUCING THE HISTORIC 501’S®
MEN / WOMEN
The process of reproducing a Historic 501® begins with the denim. Levi’s® has been working with the legendary Cone Mills and their White Oak facility since 1915 and, because of this rich relationship, the two legends of denim are able to go back into the records to determine exactly how the denim from each year was constructed. They consider the cotton weight, texture, and weave, as well as the exact formula and shade of indigo dying. With this recipe, they are able to reweave the denim so that it looks, feels and functions as it originally did. Once the denim is recreated, Levi’s® Vintage Clothing examines other archival information related to the 501® from the target year. The primary reference points are the actual jeans that are protected under lock and key in the Levi’s® Archives. Additional information is drawn from old catalogues, advertising, photography and written accounts. With this information, they are able to reproduce every last construction detail including the fit, stitching and sundries. The pattern for each jean is accurate to the last inch. The garment itself is meticulously sewn true to era. All rivets and shanks are recast in the original metals. And finally, once the jean itself is reconstructed, the exact packaging, including any hangtags or pocket flashers, is reprinted and affixed so that the Historic 501® looks the same on the shelf as it did decades or even a century ago.
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ICONIC TEES AND SWEATSHIRT
MEN
Although the Levi’s® 501® is arguably the most important garment of the modern age, Levi Strauss and Company is also responsible for introducing or popularizing a series of other iconic pieces of clothing throughout the last two centuries. Each season, Levi’s® Vintage Clothing offers a selection of the most notorious of these “Icons”, reproducing the fits, fabrics and details of the original garments found in the Levi’s® Archives.
1950’s Sportswear Tee In the 1950’s, the humble T-shirt was transformed from a simple piece of underwear to the iconic garment that it is today. For the first time, style icons of a postwar America, like Marlon Brando in A Streetcar Named Desire, wore T-shirts as standalone tops, oftentimes pairing them with their Levi’s® 501s®. The Levi’s® Vintage Clothing 1950s Sportswear Tee is a reissue of a classic Levi’s® shirt from this period. It is slim fitting, has capped sleeves and a single chest pocket. It is made from 100% cotton and includes the Levi Strauss Sportswear of California label.
1960’s Striped Tee Levi’s®
In the 1960s, began to evolve the plain white tee by introducing simple jersey cotton shirts in a rainbow of colors and striped patterns. The Levi’s® Vintage Clothing 1960s Striped Tee is a slim, neat jersey cotton T-shirt with a higher neckline and a single chest pocket. Each season, it is offered in a selection of exciting colored stripe patterns that reflect the palette of the seasonal collection.
1950’s Crew Sweatshirt
1920’s Short Sleeve Henley
Like the T-shirt, many of today’s sportswear standards can be traced back to the 1950’s, when cotton jersey rose to prominence as a warm yet soft alternative to wool. The Levi’s® Vintage Clothing 1950s Crew Sweatshirt is made from a 100% cotton, medium weight fleece that has been slightly washed down for a soft hand and authentic look. It is regular fitting and features saddle sleeves, a classic V insert on both the front and back of the neck line, and features the Levi’s® Discus Sportswear label.
Hardworking men in the early 1900s began wearing short sleeve 3-button Henley T-shirts as a soft first layer under their hardworking denim clothing. The Levi’s® Vintage Clothing 1920s Short Sleeve Henley is a reproduction of one of Levi’s® most iconic henley shirts. It is made from 3 different fabrics: a cotton linen blend that has been dried and textured to look like jersey, a woven placket and a herringbone tape.
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ICONIC SHIRTS AND JACKETS
MEN
Although the Levi’s® 501® is arguably the most important garment of the modern age, Levi Strauss and Company is also responsible for introducing or popularizing a series of other iconic pieces of clothing throughout the last two centuries. Each season, Levi’s® Vintage Clothing offers a selection of the most notorious of these “Icons”, reproducing the fits, fabrics and details of the original garments found in the Levi’s® Archives.
1955 Sawtooth Denim Shirt This is one of the many versions Levi’s® made of the Western denim shirt, and certainly the most classic. Dating to 1955, it’s referred to as the Sawtooth shirt due to it’s distinctive pocket flap shape, which resembles the teeth of a saw blade. It is slim fitting and has western yoke detailing, mother of pearl snaps and bears the Levi’s® Western Wear Label.
1920’s 2-pkt Sunset Shirt Levi’s®
In the early 1900’s produced a line of shirting with a neck label depicting a sunset that had red radiating sun-rays, collectively known as Sunset Shirts. These products ranged from underwear to “fancy” shirts. Levi’s® Vintage Clothing reproduces many styles from this range, the most iconic being the 1920’s 2-pocket shirt, which features a chin strap, bone buttons, one regular chest pocket and one smaller “watch” pocket.
1967 Type III Trucker
1950’s Shorthorn Shirt
Worn by ranchers, rock stars, truck drivers and rebels, the Type III is second only to the 501® in the Levi’s® portfolio of iconic garments. The Type III denim jacket, given the lot number 70505 in 1967, is often referred to as the ‘Trucker Jacket’. The Levi’s® Vintage Clothing Type III Jacket is true to the model from 1967. It is made from 14oz. pre shrunk denim and has a slim tapered fit with two chest pockets, copper shank buttons, side-waist adjusters and a big ‘E’ Red Tab.
Born from the Levi’s® Western Wear range, the Shorthorn Shirts retained the bold colors and inventive check patterns of western shirts, but were stripped of the flashy details that the Rodeo circuit preferred to flaunt. They were constructed out of 100% cotton flannel and featured 2 flap pockets, a shorter body and a slightly boxy fit. A staple of the Levi’s® Vintage Clothing collection, each one is reproduced by referencing extensive examples from the Levi’s® Archives.
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HOT ROD – CIRCA 1958
MEN / WOMEN
The term Hot Rod first appeared in California in the 1930s to describe cars with large modified engines built for linear speed. These early cars (usually called soup-ups) were typically old Model T’s from scrapyards, customized by young enthusiasts with little or no money but a D.I.Y. punk attitude. After WWII, hot rodding exploded and became one of post-war America’s biggest crazes. The cars were raced at tremendously high speeds on dry lakes or riverbeds. To achieve these high speeds the cars were fitted with Flathead engines and stripped of non-essential parts including fenders, hoods and windshields. Money in their pockets and mechanical skills gained in the military made the production of dream cars possible. By the 1950s sophisticated paint designs decorated the body and competition in customizing became so fierce that top cars barely saw daylight except for drag strips and exhibition halls. Levi’s® jeans and sportswear were the first choice for the sharply dressed car owners and spectators. With ankle-cropped pants, short sleeve shirts and straw hats their look was as considered as the machines themselves. The Spring/Summer 2013 Hot Rod collection is a tribute to the golden era of this distinctly American sport and all of the people that were there.
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DESIGN HIGHLIGHTS: HOT ROD – CIRCA 1958
MEN
1960’s Suede Bomber Jacket In the 1960s, Levi’s® began making more casual versions of the military bomber jackets that the GI’s had been wearing since the 1940s. As part of it’s Hot Rod collection, Levi’s® Vintage Clothing has reproduced one of these jackets in a dark indigo-dyed sheepskin suede. Made in Italy, it is medium weight, has a short, regular fit, cotton ribbing on the collar, cuffs and bottom hem, and it features the Levi’s® Jackets label, which is lovingly referred to as the Pine Tree label.
1960’s Long Sleeve Shirt in Stars and Stripes As a tribute to the Brand’s all American roots and the bold styling of American hot rod culture, Levi’s® Vintage Clothing has taken a classic slim fitting button-down and built it using stars and stripes fabrics. Made in Italy, these shirts are slim fitting and feature a neat button-down collar, two chest pockets and the Batwing label.
1960’s 605’s® During the 1960s, Levi’s® expanded its product range to reflect the shifts in American culture and introduced the 605® as a slim-fitting alternative to the 501® . Many of the hardworking frills disappeared, including Levi’s® patented copper rivets at the stress points, instead, the jeans were constructed as simply as possible and priced to suit the needs of the new generation of youth. The 605®, easily recognized by its Orange Tab, quickly found its way into many counter culture groups and will be forever remembered as an integral part of the rebellious wardrobe of the 60’s and 70’s.
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DESIGN HIGHLIGHTS: HOT ROD – CIRCA 1958
MEN
1950s Suede Trucker Jacket Dating to the late 1950s and considered one of the first “trucker” jackets, this suede jacket actually preceded the 1960’s-era denim jacket officially known as the Type III. It became a favorite of that generation of Hot Rodders, who put the durable leather garment to the test both on and off the road. The Levi’s® Vintage Clothing 1950’s Suede Trucker Jacket is made in Italy from a premium rust-colored suede. It is slim fitting and features 2 chest pockets, branded snap buttons, hip adjusters, a contrast dark brown collar, and the “Shorthorn” label.
1950’s Hawaiian Shirt The end of World War II brought waves of homeward bound GI’s to the shores of Hawaii, where they bought and returned home with colorfully printed “Hawaiian Shirts”. Levi’s® was quick to offer its own version of the Hawaiian shirt as part of its already growing Sportswear line. For Spring/Summer 2013, Levi’s® Vintage Clothing offers an exact reproduction of one of the earliest Hawaiian shirts in the Levi’s Archives. Every detail, including the 4 color print, coconut buttons and 100% rayon fabric, is true to the original.
1950’s Space Shirt In response to the rising popularity of casual attire in the 1950s, Levi’s® produced many Sportswear shirts that featured bold prints and patterns. Hot Rod culture all over the American West adopted this brand of flashy clothing and wore it while working on and racing their souped-up rides. The Levi’s® Vintage Clothing reproduction of this short sleeve shirt features an all-over graphic depicting the planet Saturn. Made from 100% rayon, just as the originals, it has mother of pearl buttons, one chest pocket, a spread collar and a relaxed, casual fit.
519® Bedford Pant In the 1960’s, Levi’s® developed a casual corduroy pant, known as the 519®, as an alternative to its other denim 5-pocket offerings. Made from bedford corduroy, a fabric often used for military jackets due to its hardwearing strength and clean look. They had a zipper fly and tapered from the inseam to the ankle opening for an impeccable, slim fit. The Levi’s® Vintage Clothing 519® Bedford Pant is reproduced to the exact specifications of the original and comes in a range of colors as a tribute to the colorful hot rod culture of that era.
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MINER – CIRCA 1890
MEN 1870’s Levi’s® Shield Henley Originally found in a mine that dates back to the 1870’s, the one-and-only surviving version of this early Levi’s® shirt has branded, sewn-on Levi Strauss and Co. buttons and a unique shield-shaped placket that conceals a 1-button placket underneath. Levi’s® Vintage Clothing’s version of this archival garment is true to the original, featuring a short cut body, sewnon buttons and buttoned cuffs. It is constructed of a cottonlinen loopback fleece which gives the appearance of twill.
1910’s Sunset Shirt This version of one of Levi’s® earliest Sunset work shirts is cut generous and constructed of a natural indigo gingham. It features all of the signature Sunset Shirt details but is heavily washed and distressed, as it would have been if it had been worn in the mines of California at the turn of the century.
1878 Triple Pleated Blouse The Triple Pleated Blouse dates back to at least 1878 and is considered the earliest jacket style that Levi Strauss and Co ever produced. Despite its age, it is a relatively modern and slim-fitting jacket, cut short to hit at the hip and featuring 3 front pleats as well as 2 back pleats in the form of a V. It has 2 rounded copper riveted pockets and metal, sewn-on LS&Co buttons. The first Triple Pleated Blouses from the Miner Collection is constructed of Cone Mills selvedge Duck Canvas. The other is constructed from 100% cotton, natural indigo gingham; heavily washed and distressed to reproduce the exact wear pattern of an archival item that was found in a Nevada mine.
1870’s Duck Canvas Pant
For the first time, Levi’s® Vintage Clothing celebrates its beginnings as the outfitter of miners in California with a small collection of essential clothing, presented as though it was unearthed from a forgotten mine.
Dating to the 1870’s, these work pants are exact replicas of a pair that Levi’s® houses in their Archives in San Francisco. In the beginning, LS&Co was known for riveted denim garments as well as other work wear made from a durable canvas known as “Duck”. Levi’s® Vintage Clothing replicates every aspect of this 130+-year-old duck canvas garment, including the sewnon suspender buttons, cinch back, single back pocket and a pre-501® leather patch.
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MINER’S DAUGHTER: CIRCA 1890
WOMEN Customized Type I Jacket Cropped with an A-line shape, this ¾ sleeve jacket is an extremely customized version of Levi’s® famous Type I jacket. It features gathering under the back yoke to create feminine volume and has an additional back panel. There is hidden pocket in the center pleating, and hand-sewn patches with ditzy-spindle and red polka dot fabric.
Bib Dress The top portion of this dress is constructed from a weatherbeaten pair of overalls. Voluminous layers of voile, which have been indigo dyed over a vintage “ditzy-spindle” pattern, create the skirt. The buckles have been cut off and replaced with lovingly hand-worked, customized straps.
1940’s Tee - Desert Rust Life for the miner’s family was as difficult as it was for the miner. The daughters and wives of miners had to be resourceful and hard-working, taking on jobs cooking and cleaning outside of the home, running boarding houses, even scavenging and carrying coal, in order to bring in extra money and resources for their families. For our Miner’s Daughter collection we imagine a woman who takes torn and discarded miner’s clothing, even her children’s clothing, and customizes them into garments that fit her body and taste. She takes a sun-bleached waist overall from the 1870’s and turns it into a skirt. She makes a dress out of the Levi’s® Youthwear Bib and Brace. She adds a feminine back panel to a Front Pleated Blouse and crops it to her size. Even a men’s 1914 LS&Co Shirt becomes both a jacket and a skirt. The collection combines these repurposed men’s garments and a few of the Miner’s daughters own hand-sewn dresses and jackets — all lovingly mended and customized. The Miner’s daughter collection is feminine and tough, thoughtful and distinctive, just like the woman who made it and the woman who wears it.
The Levi’s® Vintage Clothing design team found a the original version of this unassuming and beautifully weathered tee shirt during a research trip to an abandoned mine in Nevada. For the Miners Daughter collection, they have replicated the fabric and unique distress patterns but evolved it into a sexy and feminine silhouette.
COVERALLS Inspired by a 1920’s Levi’s® Coverall found in the Archives, this one-piece jumper has been customized to make it feminine and easy to wear. It is fitted at the shoulder and eases downward. The collar has been cut off and replaced with indigo dyed “ditzy-spindle” printed fabric. It is sleeveless and has deep arm holes, front slash pockets and a ditzy-spindle fabric belt.
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SEASONAL SPECIALS: LIMITED EDITION VON FRANCO SWEATSHIRTS
MEN / WOMEN
Flashy paint jobs were as much a part of hot rod culture as the fast cars themselves. But the painting didn’t stop at the cars. At hot rodding events around the country, T-shirts and sweatshirts were also airbrushed with customized designs, offering fans a one-of-a-kind collectible that was as personalized as the soup-up cars they drove. Soon the popularity of “Monster Shirts” grew and Ed ‘Big Daddy’ Roth, Denis ‘The Great One’ Reniro and other Godfathers of the craft became famous both in and out of the hot rod circuit. Von Franco was another one of these customization titans. Studying under a multitude of the greats, Von Franco started in the late 60’s and still champions this genre today. For Spring/Summer 2013 Levi’s® Vintage Clothing and Von Franco have collaborated to create an extremely limited offering of 25 1950s Crew Sweatshirts hand painted by the legendary Von Franco himself. Each piece is completely unique, numbered and signed.