羅芙奧季刊第38期 RAVENEL QUARTERLY NO. 38

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精采時刻 雋永人生

無限迷戀 草間彌生 INFINITY LOVE

No. 38 Spring 2022


INTERIOR

Quarry

廖韋強 總監 作品集

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INTERIOR QUARRY

唐 林 建 築 室 內

獲獎紀錄

這 樣 室 內 設 計

德國 紅點設計獎

英國 LICC 建築 榮譽獎

德國 I F 設計獎

美國 New York Design Awards 銀獎

英國 倫敦設計金獎

日本 ASIA DESIGN PRIZE 大獎

德國 柏林設計大獎

美國 ID China 2018~2019 百大室內建築師

美國 AIA 設計 銀獎

俄羅斯 EURASIAN PRIZE 金獎

義大利 A’Design Award 金獎

台灣 TID 設計獎

更多作品 >

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CONTENTS No.38 | Spring 2022 | https://ravenel.com

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ART & INVESTMENT

複數魅力!草間彌生的版畫與限量雕塑 The Appeal of Multiples! Yayoi Kusama's Prints and Editioned Sculptures 24

THE ARTIST

變身粉紅「爆」-凱薩琳.伯恩哈特 Pink Panther in Pattern Painting-Katherine Bernhardt 28

LUXURY

在寶石的璀璨中,看見歷史的靈魂

Discover the Historical Spirit Shining through the Gemstones

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32

WINE

全球暖化正在改寫你我所認識的葡萄酒 Global Warming is Rewriting the Wine We Knew About


發行人 Publisher / 王鎮華 Arthur Wang 監製 Managing Director / 李雅欣 Wendy Lee 總編輯 Editor-in-Chief / 陳惠黛 Odile Chen 主編 Managing Editor / 葉子微 Gina Yeh 編輯 Editor / 陳昱良 Iris Chen 發行所 Published / 羅芙奧股份有限公司 Ravenel Ltd. 地址 Address / 106485 台北市敦化南路二段 76 號 18 樓 18F, No. 76, Sec. 2, Dunhua S. Rd., Taipei 106485, Taiwan 電話 Tel / +886 2 2708 9868 傳真 Fax / +886 2 2701 3306 電子信箱 email / info@ravenel.com

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羅芙奧藝術集團台北辦公室 台北市敦化南路二段 76 號 18 樓 電話 Tel / +886 2 2708 9868 傳真 Fax / +886 2 2701 3306 羅芙奧藝術集團香港辦公室 香港中環金融街 8 號國際金融中心二期 19 樓 電話 Tel / +852 2889 0859 傳真 Fax / +852 2889 0850

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TRAVEL

六星級環保精品酒店 Monte Uzulu 44

ART

時尚也瘋 NFT 52

羅芙奧藝術集團上海辦公室 200050 中國上海市長寧區鎮寧路 465 弄 181 號 1 幢 2 樓 2E 電話 Tel / +86 21 2411 9575 傳真 Fax / +86 21 2411 9570

FASHION

米奇&米妮牽手90年

Mickey & Minnie 90th Anniversary

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FASHION

壬寅虎獻春 A 1.05 CARAT RADIANT-SHAPED FANCY DEEP PINK DIAMOND 1.05克拉雷迪恩明亮形深彩粉紅色鑽石

創刊 2012 年 5 月 First issue May, 2012 季刊 Quarterly 登記證 中華郵政臺北雜字第 1883 號執照登記為雜誌交寄 © 版權所有 翻印必究。本刊圖文非經同意,不得轉載或公開播送。 All rights reserved. Use of editorial content without permission is strictly prohibited.


[ CHIEF EDITOR'S NOTE ]

Love and Peace 愛與和平 2022 年適逢壬寅虎年,虎貌似凶險,意味著環境的巨大變動,世界上有 些國家區域在新年開始即遭遇苦難。鄰近的韓國、日本、香港承受新冠肺炎 變種病毒的侵襲,造成醫療癱瘓,人心惶惶。2 月 24 日俄羅斯總統下令進攻 烏克蘭,激起全球輿論譁然與群情激憤,兩國軍民都是輸家,無數的人一起 承受戰爭帶來的經濟重創與環境威脅。天災人禍,考驗著人們的智慧,思考 該如何度過難關。 劇變下的地球,極端天候帶給我們的影響,不可不正視。基於友善地球 的舉措,在墨西哥出現 Monte Uzulu「六星級環保精品酒店」,取之自然用於 自然,和諧共生。全球暖化沒有人能夠倖免於難,它正在改寫你我認識的「葡 萄園版圖」,產區風土恐將重新定義。 草間彌生 Yayoi Kusama 終其一生追求造形藝術,與世界傳達分享愛與和 平理念,透過複數藝術能讓更多人能親近她的創作。草間愛漂亮,總是戴上 鮮豔橙紅或桃紅的假髮,鮮明形象無人不知曉。美國藝術家凱薩琳.伯恩哈 總編輯

特 Katherine Bernhardt,則是戴粗框眼鏡,塗著紫色唇膏與綠色眼影,一副 未來主義嬉皮派的塗鴉畫家形象。本期季刊專欄裡有介紹兩位優質女性藝術 家及關懷你我的地球議題。 虛擬元宇宙裡的藝術收藏,本期季刊披露時尚界的 NFT,還有潮流藝術

內森•帕迪森《老虎不是粉紅色的》 2021年 壓克力 噴漆 炭筆 畫布 146 x 179 cm 羅芙奧2022春拍薈萃國際:現代與當代藝術 Nathan Paddison, Thai Gores are knot Pink, 2021, Acrylic, oil stick, charcoal, pencil and spray paint on canvas, 146 x 179 cm Select: Modern & Contemporary Art, Ravenel Spring Auction 2022

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公仔的前輩迪士尼 Mickey 與 Minnie 攜手九十年的新樣貌。老虎,這個虎虎 生風的東方生肖形象,如何展現於精品界的錶、皮件與珠寶?還有哪些當代 藝術家也描繪地球上快要絕種的百獸之王,且讓我們慢慢看下去。

No War, Please!


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THE APPEAL OF MULTIPLES!

YAYOI KUSAMA'S

PRINTS AND EDITIONED SCULPTURES 複數魅力!

草間彌生 的版畫 與限量雕塑 Text / 陳惠黛 Odile Chen

Photo / Ravenel International Art Group、達志影像、佳士得Chrities's

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[ ART & INVESTMENT ]

2021 年八月盧碧颱風,無情打落了日本瀨戶內海直島地標—草間 彌生(Yayoi Kusama)的巨型黃色南瓜雕塑,在狂濤暴雨裡翻滾浮沉的 影片,令全球藏家心痛哀號,驚悚畫面記憶猶新。2021 年草間彌生的 新聞可謂出盡鋒頭,除了風災意外、博物館回顧展,當然還有拍賣市場 的再攀顛峰。 草間彌生擁有最貴在世女性藝術家的稱號,要從 2008 年秋天說起, 那年已故好友藝術家唐納.賈德(Donald Judd, 1928-1994)的半世紀 遺藏,草間彌生「無限的網」Infinity Nets 系列白色油畫《No.2》,創 下 579 萬 2000 美元的紀錄,儘管當年度還爆發了金融風暴,多年蟬聯 封號至今。「圓點」是草間彌生的執念,「南瓜」是她的標誌代表。 這些年新藝術市場經濟崛起,懷舊風,卻也潮味十足的草間彌生的藝 術,仍然吸引著不同世代的新藏家的加入。2021 年 12 月 1 日兩件圓 點 圖 案 的 南 瓜 作 品, 接 連 創 下 草 間 彌 生 繪 畫 類(Painting) 與 雕 塑 類 (Sculpture)的新高紀錄:6254 萬港元(US$8,058,937 或 2.24 億元台 幣)、5545 萬港元(US$7,145,314 或 2 億台幣)。 根據 Artprice.com 的報告,草間彌生的作品 2021 全年在拍賣市場 ◀

藝術家草間彌生 Press conference for the Japan Art Association's 2006 Praemium Imperiale art awards, Hotel Okura, Tokyo, Japan - 17 Oct 2006

《南瓜》(LPASG)2013 油彩畫布 Pumpkin (LPASG), 2013, acrylic on canvas, 130.3 x 130.3 cm Chrities's Autumn Auction 2021 sold for HKD 62,540,000

《南瓜》2017 聚氨酯漆 玻璃纖維強化塑膠 Pumpkin fiberglass-reinforced plastic and urethane paint sculpture in two parts 215 (H) x 180 x 180 cm Chrities's Autumn Auction 2021 sold for HKD 55,450,000 《新的羊系列》佛朗索瓦-查威爾.萊蘭 1997 樹脂與古銅 Agneau from the Nouveaux Moutons series, FRANÇOIS-XAVIER LALANNE, 1997 epoxy stone and patinated bronze sculpture, 53 (H) x 63 x 20 cm Chrities's Autumn Auction 2021 sold for HKD 4000,000

至少成交七、八百件以上,總成交額約兩億美元,名列全球十大暢銷藝 術家排行,且成交率高達九成,穩坐無數收藏家心中夢幻名單地位。 本人曾於《Ravenel》新季刊 2012 年春季創刊號「藝術與投資」專 欄中力推草間彌生,發表一篇〈圓點女王—草間彌生:無限延伸的藝術 行情〉文章,介紹其藝術與市場概況。十年光陰匆匆流逝,年歲已高的 藝術大師儘管行動不便,仍勤於創作,別無他求,滿懷愛與和平的赤子 之心,打動了全球的草間迷。回顧過去十年的市場行情,除了 2019 年 受新冠疫情影響有所修正之外,草間彌生的行情幾乎一路看漲。根據 Artprice.com 統計數據,過往十年她的價格指數 price index 從 239.96 成長至 851.34 成長有 255% 之多,平均漲幅 2.5 倍。回顧 2021 年草間 作品的全球拍賣交易,版畫作品幾乎佔去一半的份額(398/841),足 見版畫作品市場的規模。 2022 年 新 春 開 始, 讓 我 們 來 談 談 草 間 彌 生 的 複 數 藝 術, 版 畫 以 及限量雕塑,合計絕對超過她個人半數的市場規模。複數藝術原本是 小 資 收 藏 家 入 門 的 好 方 法, 版 畫 收 藏 頗 有 歷 史, 提 供 預 算 有 限 的 藏 家 有 利 的 機 會, 保 存 與 維 護 成 本 相 對 輕 鬆 許 多。 蝕 刻 版 畫 etching、 石 版 畫 lithograph、 木 刻 版 畫 wood cut、 絲 網 版 畫 screenprint、 壓 花 embossing,為藝術家與專業版畫工作室密切合作而成。隨著藝術家市 場行情增長,版畫價值也隨之增加。而如今,草間彌生的版畫價格已非 小資藏家足以負擔,動則數萬美元起跳,全球限量 60 件的《永遠的愛》 (Amour pour Toujours)一套 10 幅圖樣的版畫集,2021 年 10 月 19 日 在紐約拍出 46 萬 6200 美元(約 1300 萬台幣)的新高價。最貴的草間 彌生單幅版畫《南瓜黑色》發行 ed. 8+AP4+HC4),價值 2299 萬日幣(20 萬 1208 美元或 563 萬台幣),也是在 2021 年 11 月 18 日由東京伊斯 特拍賣 New Art Est-Ouest 拍出。

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版畫是生命無盡的足跡 草間彌生保存完整且龐大的檔案與照片,對於自己的創作歸屬與 去向,極為重視。即使如複數作品,也詳細記錄每件發行數量細節, 並集結成冊。2005 年時《草間彌生全版畫集》(Yayoi Kusama Prints

草間彌生《愛麗絲夢遊仙境—路易威登版畫集(一組三件)》 2012 版畫書 65/111(內含一件版畫,一件照片,一本書) 78 x 55 cm(外盒);22.5 x 19 cm(書本); 36.6 x 29.4 cm(版畫);44.1 x 29.4 cm(照片) 羅芙奧台北2021秋季拍賣會 成交價TWD 552,000 Yayoi Kusama, Alice's Adventures in Wonderland Louis Vuitton Deluxe Box Set (a set of 3), 2012,Illustrated book, screen print, and Lambda C-type Print, edition no. 65/111, 78 x 55cm (box); 22.5 x 19 cm (book); 36.6 x 29.4 cm (print); 44.1 x 29.4 cm (photo) Ravenel Autumn Auction 2020 Taipei sold for USD 19,193

草間彌生《穿鞋去田野》1979 第一張版畫作品 The first print work of Yayoi Kusama, Going to the Field with Shoes on, 1979

1979-2004)(341 張圖版)首版發行,日英雙語編年目錄,非常受 歡迎,2011 年、2013 與 2017 年又增補作品重新發行,現今最完整的 內容為 2017 年版本。在《草間彌生全版畫》(Yayoi Kusama Prints 1979-2017)一(457 張圖版)的前言中,她曾經寫下「自從我被版畫 的魅力所吸引,我一直在製作版畫,不斷地被製作過程中所產生的光 彩所震撼。」的字句。因此,可以在三、四十年間不斷投身版畫創作, 華美精緻的版畫主題豐富,本身就是藝術品的化身。 她的理念是:「在藝術創作裡,每天從人們日常活動中發現生命, 人們的存在是短暫的。我不斷地回首過去的日子,提醒自己,版畫是 生命無盡的足跡。帶著這樣的想法,我不斷地藉由版畫將我對萬物無 盡的、強烈的情感傳遞給許多人,大量地複製它們。我全心全意地為 愛它們的人創作版畫。每當我從事版畫工作時,都滿懷著希望,能以 深刻、直接、純粹的方式,將我的思想清朗地傳達給人們。這是何以 我能持續創作版畫。我希望製作無數複數的相同視野,擴展至全世界, 正是我對造形藝術的追求。」 基於追尋造形之美的熱誠,樂於與他人分享,1979 年她發行了第 一幅版畫作品《穿鞋去田野》絲網版畫。從 1979-2017 年間一共發行 了 457 件版畫,創造力豐沛。其中含有以「南瓜」為主題共計有 99 幅, 足見南瓜在她心中的分量。花田蔬果苗圃,都來自於她的童年家庭記 憶。少女時期她曾在京都學習日本畫,描繪過幾個橫列的南瓜,獲得 讚美。造型圓胖可愛的南瓜,帶給草間彌生溫暖與安定救贖的感覺, 詩意的平靜,轉化為神聖的精神寄託,給予受盡精神疾病折磨的她繼 續前進的動力,而南瓜終其一生都是她創作的主題。

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[ ART & INVESTMENT ]

草間彌生《花(AZ)》1993 絲網版畫 69/90 84 x 71 cm 羅芙奧台北2020春季拍賣會 成交價TWD 780,000 Yayoi Kusama,Flower (AZ), 1993, Screenprint edition no. 69/90, 84 x 71 cm, Ravenel Autumn Auction 2020 Taipei sold for USD 26,387 草間彌生《版畫集永遠的愛(十件一組)》2000 版畫 57/60 65 x 50 cm(每件) 羅芙奧台北2019春季拍賣會 成交價TWD 5,040,000 Yayoi Kusama, Portfolio Amour pour Toujours (a set of 10), 2000, Screenprint, edition 57/60, 65 x 50 cm (each), Ravenel Spring Auction 2019 Taipei sold for USD 159,493

其 實 在 紐 約 時 期, 草 間 彌 生 曾 在 她 1963 年 裝 置 作 品《 千 船 會 》 (Aggregation: One Thousand Boats Show)中加入版畫元素,999 張印 著船隻圖樣的石版畫貼滿畫廊牆面,裝載銀色陽具般軟雕塑的船隻,組 成視覺張力強大的場景。1982 年草間彌生在日本舉辦的回顧展,儘管 曾在紐約擁有極高知名度,但她的藝術尚未獲得認可,版畫在當時也只 作為展覽佈景,一直到她認識版畫師岡部 Tokuzo Okabe 之後,才將版 畫視為獨立的藝術作品,與岡部版畫工作室合作多年。期間也曾與版畫 師木村希八 Kihachi Kimura 合作蝕刻銅版畫,還有石田 Ishida Ryoichi 和下岡 Shimooka Yoshiaki 合作絲網版畫與石版畫等。 除此之外,1998 年草間彌生認識了原本在法國從事傳統版畫的弗 蘭克.里瓦 Frank Riva,他娶了大阪女子 Misa 為妻,以夫妻名字縮寫 成立公司—FMR Trading Limited(Les Editions d'FMR)。草間與里瓦 彼此理念契合,後來展開多次合作計畫,特別是草間期待能與巴黎藝壇 交流:如與巴黎鑄幣廠(La Monnaie de Paris)打造知名桌上型銅雕南 瓜,利摩日 Limoges 五色陶瓷南瓜組之外。特別一提,草間彌生目前 最貴的版畫集《永遠的愛》,也由 FMR 發行。草間彌生的版畫從數十 萬台幣至數百萬元不等,南瓜題材永遠最受歡迎。

限量雕塑美感延伸 草間彌生是一位多元發展型的藝術家,除了繪畫、立體作品亦頗為 出色。由於雕塑與裝置類作品需要較大空間,多屬於為展覽或特定計畫 所作,早期結合行為表演,她創作過無數精彩的裝置作品,名留美術史 頁。後期與主力代理畫廊大田秀則畫廊(Ota Fine Arts,1995 年合作至 今),以及海外代理如維多利亞.米羅畫廊(Victoria Miro Gallery, 1998 年合作至今)、高古軒畫廊(Gagosian Gallery,合作期間 20092012)、卓納畫廊(David Zwiner Gallery,2013 年合作至今)協力合作, 因應博物館機構、雙年展、藝博會與特定藏家的需求,創作如大南瓜雕 塑、結合壓克力油畫與人像如維納斯雕塑、花卉雕塑、小狗雕塑、圓球、 家具等等。而與 2012 年草間與時尚品牌 Louis Vuitton 合作,結合大型 展覽,推出點點包、服飾商品與版畫套書的發行,蔚為風行。 13


草間彌生《南瓜(五件一組)》2002 瓷器 100/130 11(長)x 10(寬)x 8(高)cm(每件) 羅芙奧台北2018秋季拍賣會 成交價TWD 1,200,000 Yayoi Kusama, Pumpkin (a set of 5), 2002, Limoges porcelain, edition 100/130, 11(L) x 10(W) x 8(H) cm (each) Ravenel Autumn Auction 2018 Taipei sold for USD 38,923

草間彌生《南瓜(五件一組)》2002 瓷器 125/130 9.5(長)x 9.5(寬)x 7.5(高)cm(每件) 羅芙奧台北2019春季拍賣會 成交價TWD 864,000 Yayoi Kusama, Pumpkin (a set of 5), 2002, Porcelain, edition 125/130, 9.5(L) x 9.5(W) x 7.5(H) cm (each) Ravenel Spring Auction 2019 Taipei sold for USD 27,341

陶 瓷 Ceramic 與 玻 璃 纖 維 樹 脂 Resin 的 材 質, 也 經 常 運 用 於 草 間 彌生近期的複數創作或文創商品。例如 2003 年與德國唯寶 Villeroy & Boch 合作發行《南瓜象棋》(Pumpkin Chess set),全球限量七件, 十年前在紐約即曾拍出 39 萬 8500 美元(約 1200 萬台幣)的高價。還有, 透過前述 FMR 公司於 2000 年與巴黎的杰拉德工作室 Atelier S. Gerard 聯手合作,推出紅、黃直徑約 30 公分、限量 15 件的鏤雕紋樹脂 Resin 南瓜,一對最高可以賣到 14 萬 4272 美元(約 433 萬台幣);也曾經 在 2002 推出由法國利摩日 Limoges France 製作四款五色陶瓷南瓜組, 每件尺寸直徑約 10 公分,分別限量 130 件或 100 件,常見於各大拍賣 市場或藝術博覽會,目前價值約 4-6 萬美元不等。此外,FMR 於 2013 和 2015 年他們出品草間彌生的金銀色高跟鞋,每款限量 30 件 +10 件 AP,這組發行價格自然沒有南瓜主題高貴,平均個別單價落在兩萬美 元左右。

價高之後當心贗品入市 大抵而言,草間彌生的立體作品數量不如油畫作品多,自然其限

隨著草間彌生的市場行情節節高升,多年前偶而可見其油畫偽作。

量雕塑也比版畫數量稀缺。檢視過去全球拍賣市場上出現的複數雕塑作

然而隨著收藏家的小心意識提高,購買前都會先確認是否有藝術家工作

品中,大型銅雕南瓜最受歡迎也最高價。根據本文附表的拍賣市場成交

室的「登錄卡」(Registration Card),作為保證依據。因為若是原作,

排行表中,限量八件、高 67.3 公分的 2016 年鑄造的黃色南瓜銅雕,於

草間彌生工作室有開放藏家申請登錄卡。就連版畫,早些年工作室也接

2021 年 10 月在東京拍出 1 億 8640 萬日幣(約 168 萬美元或 4677 萬台

受電郵認證。不過不肖人士眼看有利可圖,大規模的偽造作品,甚至整

幣),為目前拍賣市場中最高價的限量雕塑作品。不過,過去在一級市

個畫展造假或偽造周邊商品販售。根據「一般財團法人草間彌生記念藝

場也曾釋出多組大型銅雕南瓜,例如 2015 年曾在英國維多利亞.米羅

術財團」Yayoi Kusama Foundation 公布的資料,2018 年在中國大陸境

畫廊展出過的黃色銅雕南瓜(2014 年鑄造)高度分別為 241 公分、187

內七座城市—深圳、青島、武漢、天津、上海、長沙、廣州,都有出現

公分與 110 公分(限量 8 件加上 2 件 AP),當時畫廊對外開價分別為

侵權與造假的草間彌生與村上隆的聯合畫展情事。對於草間彌生工作室

200 萬美元、150 萬美元與 120 萬美元,轉眼七年過去,平均價值至少

而言,詢問版畫認證郵件海量湧入,不堪負荷,甚至發現有登錄卡出現

成長一兩倍以上。目前位於台北南港中信園區 A 棟建築內的企業收藏,

變造的離譜情形。

即屬於最大件 241 公分銅雕,稱之為億元銅南瓜也不為過。 藝術市場較常見為前述 1998 年由 FMR 發行,巴黎鑄幣廠鑄造高 度約 28 公分限量 100 件的銅雕南瓜,紐約拍賣會上最高曾經拍出 15 萬 6250 美元(約 470 萬台幣)的金額,這一版本南瓜銅雕於 2007 年在拍 賣市場出現時僅需一萬歐元左右,價格成長驚人。

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草間彌生《南瓜》1998年構思,2012年翻鑄 銅雕 版次82/100 27(長)x 27(寬)x 28(高)cm 羅芙奧台北2021秋季拍賣會 成交價TWD 3,840,000 Yayoi Kusama, Pumpkin, Conceived in 1998; cast in 2012, Bronze, ed. 82/100, 27(L) x 27(W) x 28(H) cm Ravenel Autumn Auction 2021 Taipei sold for USD 138,528


[ ART & INVESTMENT ]

她的一生自戀 • 你我的永恆敬意 回顧草間彌生的一生,痛苦的時刻多過歡樂。她曾說每天都有想死 的念頭,但是勇敢地靠藝術活到現在,九十三年的奮鬥時光,多麼令人 感動。1929 年出生於日本長野縣松本市,一富裕之家,童年深受父母 失和的創傷折磨,很早患有偏執的強迫症,總感受異於常人的幻境與視 野。1957 年飛往美國展開藝術冒險,參與 1950-1970 年代蓬勃的美國 當代美術運動,嶄露其自由創新精神。1973 年才返回日本。 草間彌生從 1977 年自願住進療養院,至今仍以療養院為家。雖是 病人,平日通勤到療養院附近的三層樓小屋畫畫,從早上九點半到下午 六點,除用餐和少數必要的交談,都坐在二樓工作室畫桌前。周末助手 們休假,或者天候不佳時,她則留在小病房內繼續畫畫。 創作使她能延續生命,一輩子過得比誰都精彩,除了繪畫、素描、 雕塑、電影、行為表演、沉靜式裝置,還擅長寫作小說、時尚設計等。 她無比的自信自戀,在她的世界裡沒有人比她美麗。 ▲

草間彌生《南瓜-黑》2006 蝕刻版畫 限量8 HC ¾ 122 x 100 cm 羅芙奧台北2019春季拍賣會 成交價TWD 3,600,000 Yayoi Kusama, Pumpkin-Black, 2006, Etching, edition of 8, HC ¾, 122 x 100 cm Ravenel Spring Auction 2019 Taipei sold for USD 113,924 草間彌生《蝸牛》1989 版畫 86/100 51 x 56.5 cm 羅芙奧台北2014秋季拍賣會 成交價TWD 240,000 Yayoi Kusama, Snail, 1989, Color silkscreen, edition 86/100, 51 x 56.5 cm Ravenel Autumn Auction 2014 Taipei sold for USD 7,710

她的藝術成就在晚年時期益加輝煌! 1993 年終於代表日本參加威 尼斯雙年展,成為全屆最火紅的藝術家。2011 年起,歐洲大規模的回 顧展於此展開:馬德里索菲亞皇后美術館、巴黎龐畢度中心;2012 年 在倫敦泰特美術館、紐約惠特尼美術館。且在亞洲和中南美洲的主要博 物館有全面性的回顧展;挪威、瑞典、華盛頓特區、西雅圖、多倫多、 台灣、新加坡、雅加達、澳洲昆士蘭、韓國與日本等。 《時代雜誌》在 2016 年評選草間彌生為百位影響人物之一。2017 年東京建立了草間彌生美術館,表彰其藝術成就與貢獻;近期如 2018

2019 年 12 月草間彌生工作室正式對外公告,已調整註冊登錄 費用,且發行新版登錄卡,原來開立的登錄卡仍然有效,收藏家也 可選擇寄回舊登錄卡,更新新型登錄卡。不過,工作室已經言明不

年紐約 MoMA PS1;2021 年在柏林;2022 年新年度持續有以色列台拉 維夫、倫敦泰特美術館的大型展出。草間彌生,多年來已是全球公認最 偉大的女性藝術家之一,早已圓滿了少女時的夢想追尋。

再協助認證複數作品,例如限量版畫、印刷物、商品或奇珍擺件等 等。有興趣購買草間彌生複數作品的藏家,應該如何是好?以下給 藏家幾點建議參考。 (1)必備《草間彌生全版畫》等參考書,目前在網路或實 體書店仍有機會購得。藉此熟悉其版畫發行情況,了 解版畫工作室名稱、類型、幾色印刷、紙張等。 ( 2 )承 襲 日 本 與 法 國 工 藝 美 學 ,草 間 的 版 畫 製 作 工 序 精 良 , 色 澤 美 麗 ,不 會 有 色 偏 或 線 條 模 糊 的 情 況 ,紙 質 講 究 。 也要辨識簽名與字跡是否為真。 ( 3 )有 些 版 畫 工 作 室 或 者 限 量 雕 塑 出 版 商 會 附 有 相 關 文 件 , 原始包裝盒等,可為佐證。 (4)上網查詢藝術家的正式官網 yayoi-kusama.jp,可了解 限 量 雕 塑 與 文 創 商 品 的 發 行 情 況 ,發 行 單 位 是 否 正 確 。 (5)重視複數作品的購買來源,應向有信譽可信賴的經紀

YAYOI KUSAMA

商、畫廊與拍賣公司購買,妥善保存購入發票與相關

憑 證 ,因 為 即 使 萬 一 出 現 爭 議 ,該 公 司 比 較 願 意 負 責 。

15


In August 2021, Typhoon Lupit violently struck the landmark of Seikoku, the Seto Inland Sea—Yayoi Kusama's gigantic sculpture of a yellow pumpkin. The yellow pumpkin was tossed about by the strong waves and battered by torrential rains, and collectors worldwide were heartbroken. That terrifying image remains vivid in their heads to this day. In 2021, the headlines were constantly filled with news related to

草間彌生《南瓜(三件一組)》1991 絲網版畫 48/250 28 x 59 cm(每件) 羅芙奧台北2020春季拍賣會 成交價TWD 780,000 Yayoi Kusama, Pumpkin (a set of 3), 1991, Screenprint edition no. 48/250, 28 x 59 cm (each) Ravenel Autumn Auction 2020 Taipei sold for USD 26,387

草間彌生《永恆的愛》2005 複合媒材 1/15(手繪單一件) 44(高)x 38(直徑)cm 羅芙奧台北2018春季拍賣會 成交價TWD 6,000,000 Yayoi Kusama, LOVE – FOREVER, 2005, Mixed media, edition no. 1/15 (painted; unique), 44(H) x 38(D) cm Ravenel Spring Auction 2018 Taipei sold for USD 201,072

Kusama. Along with stories about the typhoon and her retrospective exhibition at a museum, the news reported that the value of Kusama has been called the "most expensive female artist alive." In autumn 2008, collections compiled over half a century by artist Donald Judd (1928–1994), Kusama's long-deceased good friend, went on the market. Kusama's white Infinity Nets oil painting series "No. 2" sold at auction for a record-setting US$5.792 million. Even though this occurred during the financial crisis, Kusama still holds that record today. Polka dots are Kusama's obsession, and pumpkins are her representative symbols. In recent years, the new art market economy has grown. Kusama's arts, both antiquated and fashionable, continue to attract new generations of collectors. On December 1, 2021, two polka-dot pumpkin pieces consecutively set record highs

for Kusama's paintings and sculptures: HK$62.54 million (US$8,058,937 or NT$224 million) and HK$55.45 million (US$7,145,314 or NT$200 million), respectively. According to a report by Artprice.com, In 2021, over 700 or 800 of Kusama's works are sold at auction, with sales totaling approximately US$200 million. This figure makes her one of the ten bestselling artists worldwide, with a transaction rate of 90%. Kusama has a stable spot on the wish lists of numerous collectors. I strongly promoted Kusama's works in the Arts and Investment column in the first issue of Ravenel , a quarterly first published in spring 2012, in an article titled "Bullish Outlook for Works by Yayoi Kusama ‘The Queen of Polka Dots'". In that article, I introduced her works and the market view. Ten years have passed since then. Although Kusama is advanced in age and mobility-challenged, she still diligently creates new artworks, not to meet any particular goal but to satisfy her child-like heart, which seeks love and peace. Her diligence has moved Kusama fans worldwide. In the last decade, except for in 2019, when the market price was affected by the COVID-19 pandemic, the value of Kusama's works has been constantly rising. According to Artprice.com, in the last decade, the price index of her work increased from 239.96 to 851.34, which is a growth of 255%, or an average increase of over 2.5 times. In the global auctions of Kusama's work in 2021, prints accounted for nearly half of the works (398/841), reflecting the scale of the print market.

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[ ART & INVESTMENT ] English chronologies and became extremely popular. In 2011, 2013, and 2017, more works were included, and new editions were printed. The most comprehensive edition to date is the 2017 edition. In the preface of Yayoi Kusama Prints 1979-2017 (457 prints), Kusama stated, "I have been making prints ever since I was captivated by their allure, and am constantly overwhelmed by the brilliance arising from within the process of making them." Thus, her continuous devotion to creating prints with splendid and intricate topics for 30 or 40 years is in itself an art. Her ideal is, "In creating art, every day is a discovery of life amidst the daily activity of people whose existence is ephemeral. I keep looking back on my bygone days, reminding myself that prints are the endless footsteps of life. With this thought, I keep on sending to many people my inexhaustible, intense feelings toward all things through prints, duplicating them in large numbers. I create prints with all my heart for the people who love them. Whenever I work on prints, I am filled with a wish to convey to the people my thought in a deep, straight and pure way with clear brightness. This is why I can keep creating prints. I wish to make countless duplicates of the same visual field and spread them across the world. This is my longing for formative arts." As spring 2022 begins, we should discuss Kusama's multiples,

草間彌生《自畫像》1995 絲網版畫 56/75 53.5 x 38 cm 羅芙奧台北2019秋季拍賣會 成交價TWD 480,000 Yayoi Kusama, Self-portrait, 1995, Screenprint edition no. 56/75, 53.5 x 38 cm Ravenel Autumn Auction 2019 Taipei sold for USD 15,738

Yayoi Kusama, Pumpkin, 1983, Screenprint. Paper: Peche Soleil. Printer: Okabe Tokuzo. 58.7 x 48.5 cm Ravenel Allin Online Auction 2020 sold for USD 53,100

prints and editioned sculptures, which together account for over half of her personal works on the market. Multiples used to be a good method through which collectors of limited means could start building their collections. The collection of prints has a long history, offering collectors with budget limitations favorable opportunities because preserving and maintaining them have relatively low costs. Etchings, lithographs, woodcuts, silkscreens, and embossing are the results of close collaboration between artists and professional print studios. As the market value of an artist grows, the value of the prints also increases. Today, Kusama's prints are no longer affordable to collectors of limited means—they begin at tens of thousands of US dollars. For example, "Amour pour Toujours", a limited edition print with only edition of 60 worldwide, sold at auction for a new high of US$466,200 (approximately NT$13 million) on October 19, 2021. The most expensive print, Kusama's single-print Pumpkin Black (ed. 8+AP4+HC4), sold for JPY22.99 million (US$201,208 or NT$5.63 million) on November 18, 2021, at the New Art Est-Ouest in Tokyo.

Prints are the endless footsteps of life Kusama has preserved a comprehensive collection of files and photos, and she greatly values where her creations end up. Even for multiples, she records in detail the number of each piece produced and its details, assembling them into a book. In 2005, "All Prints of Yayoi

Kusama 1979-2004 " (341 prints) was first issued with both Japanese and

17


In 1998, Kusama met Frank Riva, who was making traditional prints in France. He was married to Misa, a woman from Osaka, and he founded a company using their initials as the name: FMR Trading Limited (Les Editions d'FMR). Kusama and Riva had matching ideals, and they collaborated several times. Specifically, Kusama wished to engage in exchanges with the Paris art scene. For example, she collaborated with La Monnaie de Paris and created the famous desk-top version of the bronze pumpkin sculptures. She also created the Limoges five-color ceramic pumpkin sets. Notably, the most expensive printing collection of Kusama to date, "Amour pour Toujours," was also issued by FMR. Kusama's prints are worth hundreds of thousands to millions of Taiwan dollars. Those featuring pumpkins are always the most popular ones. With a passion to seek beauty in form and a willingness to share, in 1979, Kusama issued her first print work, "Going to the Field with Shoes on", a silkscreen. Between 1979 and 2017, she released 457 prints, reflecting her ample creativity. Among them, 99 featured pumpkins, clearly reflecting the importance of pumpkins in her mind. She derived the flower beds and vegetable gardens from her childhood memories of her family. As a teenager, she studied Japanese painting in Kyoto. She once earned praise for depicting several pumpkins in a row. The round, fat, cute little pumpkins brought Kusama a feeling of warmth, stability, and redemption. That poetic tranquility was transformed into holy spiritual sustenance, offering Kusama, who was tortured by mental illness, the motivation she needed to keep moving forward. Throughout her life, pumpkins have been a constant focus of her creations.

Editioned Sculptures Kusama is an artist with diverse developments. In addition to her paintings, her three-dimensional works are also outstanding. Because sculptures and art installations take up a large amount of space, they are mostly produced for exhibitions or special projects. In her early years, she integrated performance arts and created countless art installations, cementing her place in art history. In her later years, she has mainly collaborated with her primary agency, Ota Fine Arts (who has represented her since 1995), and overseas agencies such as the Victoria Miro Gallery (since 1998), the Gagosian Gallery (2009 to 2012), and the David Zwiner Gallery (since 2013). Through these collaborations, she has created works to meet the demands of museums, biennales, art exhibitions, and the demands of certain collectors. These works have included gigantic

In fact, in her New York period, Kusama incorporated print elements

pumpkin sculptures, as well as sculptures integrating acrylic oil painting

in her 1963 art installation "Aggregation: One Thousand Boats Show."

and portraits, such as the statue of Venus, flower sculptures, dog

The work included 999 lithographs of boats covering the walls of a

sculptures, balls, and furniture. In 2012, Kusama worked with the fashion

gallery. The boats, filled with soft, phallic silver sculptures, formed an

brand Louis Vuitton to promote a large-scale exhibition and launch

image with strong visual tension. In 1982, Kusama held a retrospective

polka dot bags, clothes, and sets of books about prints, causing a rage in

exhibition in Japan. Although she had earned extremely high regard in

fashion.

New York, her art was not approved, and her prints were only used as the setting for the exhibition. Only when she met the print artist Tokuzo Okabe did she consider her prints as independent artworks, and she worked with Okabe's print studio for many years. During this period, she also collaborated with print artist Kihachi Kimura to produce copper plate etchings and with Ishida Ryoichi and Shimooka Yoshiaki to produce silkscreens and lithographs.

草間彌生《高跟鞋(金)》2015 瓷器 限量30 PP 22(長)x 8(寬)x 20(高)cm (右腳)22(長)x 8(寬)x 16.5(高)cm(左腳) 羅芙奧台北2019春季拍賣會 成交價 TWD 720,000 Yayoi Kusama, High-Heels (Gold), 2015, Porcelain, edition of 30 PP, 22(L) x 8(W) x 20(H) cm (right foot) 22(L) x 8(W) x 16.5(H) cm (left foot) Ravenel Spring Auction 2019 Taipei sold for USD 22,784

草間彌生《富士》1983 版畫 72/75 49 x 60 cm 羅芙奧台北2017秋季拍賣會 成交價TWD 600,000 Yayoi Kusama, Mt. Fuji, 1983, Screenprint, edition no. 72/75, 49 x 60 cm Ravenel Autumn Auction 2017 Taipei sold for USD 19,987

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[ ART & INVESTMENT ]

《南瓜》2010 聚氨酯漆 玻璃纖維強化塑膠 120(長)x 120(寬)x 125(高)cm 羅芙奧2021 秋季拍賣現代與當代藝術 台幣1.41億元成交 (藝術家南瓜原作雕塑排名次高) Pumpkin, 2010, Urethane paint on fiberglass reinforced plastic, 120(L) x 120(W) x 125(H) cm sold for USD 5,102,453 (Top 2 record of artist pumpkin sculpture) at Ravenel Autumn Auction 2021, Modern & Contemporary Art

草間彌生《南瓜》1998-2000 樹脂 限量15 EE 2/2 27(長)x 27(寬)x 28(高)cm 羅芙奧台北2016秋季拍賣會 成交價TWD 2,040,000 Yayoi Kusama, Pumpkin, 1998-2000, Resin, edition of 15 EE 2/2, 27(L) x 27(W) x 28(H) cm Ravenel Autumn Auction 2016 Taipei sold for USD 63,930 草間彌生《南瓜》1998-2000 樹脂 限量15 EE 2/2 27(長)x 27(寬)x 28(高)cm 羅芙奧台北2016秋季拍賣會 成交價TWD 2,040,000 Yayoi Kusama, Pumpkin, 1998-2000, Resin, edition of 15 EE 2/2, 27(L) x 27(W) x 28(H) cm Ravenel Autumn Auction 2016 Taipei sold for USD 63,930

Kusama's three-dimensional works are far outnumbered by her oil

Ceramic and resin are also commonly used in Kusama's recent

paintings. Naturally, her editioned sculptures are rarer than her prints. Of

multiples or cultural and creative products. For example, in 2003,

the sculpture multiples that have appeared at auctions, the large copper

she collaborated with Villeroy & Boch, Germany, and issued 7

pumpkins have been the most popular and most expensive. According to the

limited-edition Pumpkin Chess sets, one of which sold at auction for

transaction list of the auction market in the appendix, one pumpkin, one of a

US$398,500 (approximately 12 million) in New York 10 years ago.

2016 limited edition of eight yellow copper pumpkins 67.3 cm in height, sold

Also, through the aforementioned FMR, in 2000, Kusama and the

for JPY186.4 million (approximately US$1.68 million or NT$46.77 million).

Atelier S. Gerard studio in Paris together issued a limited collection

That was the most expensive editioned sculpture in the auction market to

of 15 red and yellow etched resin pumpkins with diameters of about

date. However, in the top markets in the past, several sets of large copper

30 cm. One pair has sold for as much as US$144,272 (approximately

pumpkins have come on the market. For example, in 2015, yellow copper

NT$4.33 million). In 2002, she launched four types of five-colored

pumpkins (241cm, 187cm, and 110 cm in height, respectively, limited edition

ceramic pumpkin sets, produced by Limoges France. Each pumpkin

of 8 with 2 AP) cast in 2014 were exhibited at the Victoria Miro Gallery in

has a diameter of 10 cm, and only 130 or 100 were released,

the United Kingdom in 2015, with gallery prices of US$2 million, US$1.5

respectively. They often appear at major auctions or art exhibitions,

million and US$1.2 million, respectively. Seven years later, their mean value

and their current value is approximately US$40,000–60,000. Also, in

had at least doubled. The enterprise collection, located in Building A of the

2013 and 2015, FMR released Kusama's gold and silver high heels.

CTBC Financial Park in Nangang, Taiwan, holds the largest piece, which is

Each pair was limited to 30 editions + 10 AP. Their issuing price was

241 cm tall. It is undoubtedly worth NT$100 million.

naturally not as high as that of the works featuring pumpkins; they

The bronze pumpkins with a limited edition of 100 that were only 28

were priced at about US$20,000 each.

cm in height, cast by La Monnaie de Paris, and issued by FMR in 1998 were relatively common on the art market. This pumpkin sold at auction in New York for US$156,250 (approximately NT$4.7 million). A bronze pumpkin from this collection was worth only about 10 thousand euros on the 2007 auction market. The price increase is stunning.

19


As the price rises,

counterfeits enter the market

羅芙奧2019預展照-草間彌生專區 Ravenel Preview 2019, The space of Yayoi Kusama

As the market value of Kusama's work grew over the years, counterfeit oil paintings began to pop up on the market. However, the collectors have become more alert. Before they make a purchase, they check if the work comes with a Registration Card from the artist's studio as a guarantee. For authentic pieces, Kusama's studio

(1) Get references such as Yayoi Kusama Prints 1979-2017 . To

offers registration cards to the collectors. In the early years, even

date, they are available from online and brick-and-mortar

her prints could be registered by email. However, seeing a potential

bookstores. Familiarize yourself with the issuing of her prints,

profit, pirates counterfeited the works on a large scale, even faking

and understand the name of the studio, type of print, color of

copies for an entire exhibition or peripheral products for sale.

the print, and paper used.

According to the Yayoi Kusama Foundation, in 2018, the joint art

(2) Kusama's prints inherited the craftsmanship and aesthetics of

exhibitions of Kusama and Takashi Murakami in seven Chinese

Japan and France, so they are made carefully, with beautiful

cities, namely, Shenzhen, Qingdao, Wuhan, Tianjin, Shanghai,

colors. The paper used is of high quality, and the colors are

Changsha, and Guangzhou, featured copyright infringements and

never off, nor the lines blurry. Collectors should also be able to

counterfeits. At Kusama's studio, the number of emails enquiring

authenticate the signature and handwriting.

about the authenticity of works flooded in, exceeding their capacity to cope with them. Even counterfeit registration cards have been discovered.

(3) Some print studios or producers of editioned sculptures will provide relevant documents, such as the original packaging, as proof.

In December 2019, Kusama's studio officially announced that

(4) Visit Kusama's official website, yayoi-kusama.jp, to determine

it had adjusted the registration fee, and they issued a new version of

whether the status of editioned sculptures and cultural and

the registration card. The old registration cards remained valid, but

creative products, and the number of units issued, are correct.

collectors could mail them in to receive new ones. Still, the studio announced that it would no longer assist in the certification of

(5) Pay attention to the source of multiples for purchase. Purchase them from reputable agencies, galleries, or auction companies.

multiples, such as limited editions (including prints), products, and

Safeguard the receipt and relevant certificates of purchase.

novelties. This raises an important question: What should collectors

Should a dispute arise, the seller from whom you made the

do if they are interested in Kusama's works? I hereby offer these

purchase will be more willing to assume responsibility.

collectors several suggestions:

20


[ ART & INVESTMENT ]

Her life-long narcissism, and our eternal respect Kusama's life has been filled with more pain than pleasure. She has said that she feels like ending her life every day. However, she bravely clings to life through her art. She has been fighting for 93 years—a thought that gives one pause. Born in 1929 to a rich family in Matsumoto in the Nagano prefecture of Japan, she had a childhood filled with trauma and torture due to her parents' marital discord. She developed paranoid obsessive-compulsive disorder early on, and she constantly experienced abnormal illusions and visions. In 1957, she flew to the United States to start her art adventure. She was a member of the contemporary art movement in the United States from the 1950s to the 1970s, revealing her free innovative spirit. She returned to Japan in 1973. In 1977, Kusama volunteered to move into an extended care facility, and she remains in such care to this day. Despite being a patient, she commutes every weekday to a three-story building near the nursing home to paint from 9:30 am to 6 pm. Except for dining and handling a few necessary conversations, she remains in front of her painting table in her studio on the second floor. On weekends, when her assistants are on leave or the weather is inclement, she stays in her small room in the nursing home and keeps painting. The creative process allows her to continue her life. She has had a life more splendid than anyone else's. In addition to creating paintings, sketches, sculptures, movies, performing arts, and immersive installations, she is also a skilled author of fiction and fashion designer. In her world, her incomparable self-confidence and narcissism make her more beautiful than anyone else. Her artistic achievements were even more glorious in her later years. In 1993, she represented Japan at the Venice Biennale, where she was the most popular artist of the exhibition. In 2011, her large-scale retrospective exhibition was featured in Europe at the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía in Madrid and the Centre Pompidou in Paris; in 2012, at Tate Modern in London, and at the Whitney Museum of American Art in New York. Moreover, she also had comprehensive retrospective exhibitions in Asia and in Central and South America, as well as in Norway, Sweden, Washington, D.C., Seattle, Toronto, Taiwan, Singapore, Jakarta, Australia, South Korea, and Japan.

草間彌生《紅花(二)》1992 版畫 31/50 44.6 x 31.7 cm 羅芙奧台北2018春季拍賣會 成交價TWD 384,000 Yayoi Kusama, Vase (2), 1992, Lithograph, edition 31/50, 44.6 x 31.7 cm Ravenel Spring Auction 2018 Taipei sold for USD 12,869

Times Magazine listed Kusama as one of the most influential people of 2016. In 2017, the Yayoi Kusama Museum was founded in Tokyo to foreground her artistic achievements and contributions. In more recent years, such as 2018, her works were included in the New York MoMA PS1. In 2021, her works were exhibited in Berlin. In 2022, large-scale exhibitions are to be held in Tel Aviv-Yafo in Israel and in Tate Modern in London. Kusama, who has long been considered one of the best female artists in the world, has long fulfilled the dream she pursued as a young woman.

21


草間彌生限量雕塑二十大拍賣成交排行 1

2

3

4

5

南瓜 (S) Pumpkin (S) 2016 Bronze (mirror polished) Edition of 8 67.3 x 65 x 63.5 cm

南瓜 (S) Pumpkin (S) 2016 Bronze (mirror polished) Edition 1/8 67.3 x 65 x 63.5 cm

被無限網抹去的維納斯雕像 Statue of Venus Obliterated by Infinity Nets 1998 Acrylic, fiberglass and canvas Edition 5/10 214.6 x 68.5 x 78.7 cm; 227.3 x 146 cm

被無限網抹去的維納斯雕像 Statue of Venus Obliterated by Infinity Nets 1998 Acrylic on fiberglass and canvas Edition 6/10 214.6 x 68.5 x 78.7 cm; 227.3 x 146 cm

南瓜象棋 Pumpkin Chess Set 2003 Ceramic Porcelain, hand painted, leather & wood display Edition of 7 73.7 x 109.2 x 109.2 cm

預估價 Estimate

預估價 Estimate

預估價 Estimate

預估價 Estimate

預估價 Estimate

JPY 80,000,000~130,000,000

US$500,000~700,000

US$450,000~650,000

GBP 280,000~350,000

US$60,000~80,000

成交價 Sold at

US$1,092,500

成交價 Sold at

成交價 Sold at

成交價 Sold at

成交價 Sold at

拍賣日期 Auction Date 紐約佳士得 Christie's New York 2017.11.16

拍賣日期 Auction Date 紐約佳士得 Christie's New York 2013.05.16

拍賣日期 Auction Date 倫敦佳士得 Christie's London 2016.2.12

拍賣日期 Auction Date 紐約富藝斯 Phillips de Pury & Company New York 2012.11.16

6

7

8

9

10

南瓜象棋 Pumpkin Chess Set 2003 Ceramic Porcelain, hand painted, leather & wood display Edition 3/7 71.1 x 116.8 x 116.8 cm

永恆的愛 Love – Forever 2005 Mixed media (painted), unique Edition 1/15 44 x 38 x 38 cm

南瓜象棋 Pumpkin Chess Set 2003 Ceramic Porcelain, hand painted, leather & wood display Edition 4/7 78.7 x 127 x 127 cm

永恆的愛 Love – Forever 2005 Fiberglass, acrylic, fabric cushion Edition 14/15 44 x 38 x 38 cm

永恆的愛 Love Forever 2005 Sculpture, acrylic, FRP, cushion Edition of 15 44.5 x 42 cm

預估價 Estimate

預估價 Estimate

預估價 Estimate

預估價 Estimate

預估價 Estimate

US$120,000~180,000

NT$5,500,000~6,500,000

US$100,000~150,000

HK$350,000~550,000

成交價 Sold at

成交價 Sold at

成交價 Sold at

成交價 Sold at

JPY 7,000,000~12,000,000

US$1,679,464 JPY 186,400,000 拍賣日期 Auction Date 東京伊斯特 New Art Est-Ouest Tokyo 2021.10.01

USD 237,500 拍賣日期 Auction Date 紐約蘇富比Sotheby's New York 2019.11.15

22

US$201,072 NT$6,000,000 拍賣日期 Auction Date 台北羅芙奧 Ravenel Taipei 2021.12.04

US$783,750

US$185,000

拍賣日期 Auction Date 紐約蘇富比Sotheby's New York 2013.05.15

US$ 620,328 GBP 458,500

US$175,158 HK$1,375,000 拍賣日期 Auction Date 香港佳士得 Christie's Hong Kong 2019.03.29

US$398,500

成交價 Sold at

US$169,438 JYP 19,360,000 拍賣日期 Auction Date 東京伊斯特 New Art Est-Ouest Tokyo 2021.11.18


[ ART & INVESTMENT ]

20 MOST EXPENSIVE SCULPTURE EDITIONS OF YAYOI KUSAMA SOLD AT AUCTION

TOP

20

製表 ∕ 陳惠黛 Odile Chen (Update 2022.02.15; Source: Artprice.com, Ravenel, Sotheby's, Christie's, Phillips, Poly, SBI, Est-Ouest, Acurial)

11

12

13

14

15

南瓜象棋 Pumpkin Chess Set 2003 Ceramic Porcelain, hand painted, leather & wood display Edition 3/7 73.7 x 109.2 x 109.2 cm

南瓜 Pumpkin 1998 Bronze, patinated Edition 31/100 27.9 x 27.9 x 25.4 cm

在黑夜中綻放的我的心 My Heart That Blooms in the Darkness of The Night (x Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame) 2020 Resin, copper, UV-coated with lacquer, vintage 2012 champagne) Edition 15/100 46.5 x 35 x 34 cm

南瓜 Pumpkin 2000 Ceramic painted synthetic resin Edition 3/15 28 x 29.8 x 26.5 cm

南瓜 Pumpkin 1998, cast 2012 Bronze Edition 82 / 100 28 x 27 x 27 cm

預估價 Estimate

預估價 Estimate

預估價 Estimate

預估價 Estimate

預估價 Estimate

GBP 80,000~120,000

US$25,000~35,000

HK$300,000~500,000

HK$430,000~630,000

NT$2,400,000~3,600,000

成交價 Sold at

成交價 Sold at

成交價 Sold at

成交價 Sold at

成交價 Sold at

拍賣日期 Auction Date 香港蘇富比 Sotheby's Hong Kong 2021.06.22

拍賣日期 Auction Date 香港伊斯特 New Art Est-Ouest Hong Kong 2021.11.18

拍賣日期 Auction Date 台北羅芙奧 Ravenel Taipei 2021.12.04

US$156,851 GBP 98,500

拍賣日期 Auction Date 倫敦富藝斯 Phillips London 2014.10.16

US$156,250

拍賣日期 Auction Date 紐約富藝斯 Phillips New York 2019.04.23

US$154,115 HK$1,197,000

US$144,272 HK$1,121,000

US$138,528 NT$3,840,000

16

17

18

19

20

南瓜 Pumpkin 1998 Bronze Edition 87/100 28.5 x 26.2 x 26 cm

南瓜 Pumpkin 1998 Bronze Edition of 100 27 x 27 x 25.5 cm

南瓜 Pumpkin 1998 Bronze, casted by Fonderie De Paris, France Edition 70/100 27.5 x 28.4 x 29.9 cm

南瓜 Pumpkin 1998 Resin (painted) Edition 11 / 15 28 x 28.5 x 26.5 cm

南瓜 Pumpkin 1998 Bronze Edition 65/100 28 x 27 x 27 cm

預估價 Estimate

預估價 Estimate

預估價 Estimate

預估價 Estimate

預估價 Estimate

HK$550,000~750,000

JPY 6,500,000~9,500,000

HK$150,000~250,000

EUR 30,000~40,000

NT$1,00,000~2,000,000

成交價 Sold at

US$114,982 HK$900,000

成交價 Sold at

成交價 Sold at

成交價 Sold at

拍賣日期 Auction Date 香港蘇富比 Sotheby's Hong Kong 2018.10.01

拍賣日期 Auction Date 巴黎艾德 Artcurial Paris 2019.06.05

拍賣日期 Auction Date 台北羅芙奧 Ravenel Taipei 2018.12.02

成交價 Sold at

US$137,311 HK$1,071,000 拍賣日期 Auction Date 香港富藝斯與保利 Phillips & Poly Hong Kong 2021.11.29

US$125,996 JPY 14,375,000 拍賣日期 Auction Date 東京SBI SBI Art Tokyo 2021.10.29

US$102,219 EUR 91,000

US$101,121 NT$3,120,000

23


草間彌生版畫二十大拍賣成交排行 1

2

3

4

5

永遠的愛 Amour pour Toujours 2000 Screenprint in colors, with glitter, on Rives BFK paper Edition 34 / 60 38.1 x 45.4 cm each

七彩富士山 Mt. Fuji in Seven Colours (Kusama 394-400) 2015 Woodcut Edition of 120 30.3 x 90 cm each

七彩富士山 Mt. Fuji in Seven Colours (Kusama 394-400) 2015 Woodcut Edition of 120 30.3 x 90 cm each

永遠的愛 Amour pour Toujours 2000 Screenprint in colors, with glitter, on Rives BFK paper Edition AP (60 and 15 AP) 66.5 x 51.5 cm each

南瓜黑色 Pumpkin-Black 2006 Etching Edition of 8 98 x 76 cm

預估價 Estimate

預估價 Estimate

預估價 Estimate

預估價 Estimate

預估價 Estimate

US$150,000~250,000

JPY 17,000,000~ 27,000,000

JPY 20,000,000~ 30,000,000

GBP 60,000~80,000

JPY 10,000,000~ 15,000,000

成交價 Sold at

成交價 Sold at

US$260,980 GBP 200,000

成交價 Sold at

US$466,200

拍賣日期 Auction Date 紐約富藝斯 Phillips New York 2021.10.19

US$319,539 JPY 34,500,000

拍賣日期 Auction Date 倫敦富藝斯 Philipps London 2019.01.24

成交價 Sold at

US$201,208 JPY 22,990,000

拍賣日期 Auction Date 東京SBI SBI Art Tokyo 2019.11.01

拍賣日期 Auction Date 東京SBI SBI Art Tokyo 2021.04.23

6

7

8

9

10

版畫集「永遠的愛」 Portfolio Amour Pour Toujours 2000 Screenprint Edition 56/60 1 & 2. 45.5 x 38 cm; 3-10. 38 x 45.5 cm

南瓜 Pumpkin 1988 Screenprint, printed by Okabe Tokuzo Edition 20/50 90.8 x 67.5 cm

南瓜 Pumpkin 1988 Screenprint Edition of 50, EA 90.8 x 67.5 cm

南瓜MT Pumpkin MT 1999 Screenprint in colors/Arches Edition 102/110+11 AP 44.3 x 36.6 cm

無限的愛(十件一組) Amour pour Toujours 2000 Screenprint in colors Edition 28/60 38 x 45.5 cm each

預估價 Estimate

預估價 Estimate

預估價 Estimate

預估價 Estimate

預估價 Estimate

HK$800,000~1,200,000

KRW 150,000,000~ 200,000,000

KRW 150,000,000~ 250,000,000

US$20,000~30,000

NT$950,000~1,600,000

成交價 Sold at

成交價 Sold at

US$168,750

成交價 Sold at

成交價 Sold at

成交價 Sold at

US$196,667 HK$1,534,000 拍賣日期 Auction Date 香港保利 Poly Auction Hong Kong 2018.03.29

24

US$339,921 JPY 36,800,000

成交價 Sold at

US$176,567 KRW 209,700,000 拍賣日期 Auction Date 首爾K拍賣 K-Auction Seoul 2021.11.24

US$175,525 KRW 200,600,000 拍賣日期 Auction Date 首爾首爾 Seoul Auction Seoul 2021.07.29

拍賣日期 Auction Date 紐約佳士得 Christie's New York 2021.10.22

拍賣日期 Auction Date 東京伊斯特 New Art Est-Ouest Tokyo 2021.11.18

US$167,498 NT$5,040,000 拍賣日期 Auction Date 台北羅芙奧 Ravenel Taipei 2017.06.04


[ ART & INVESTMENT ]

TOP

20 MOST EXPENSIVE PRINT EDITIONS OF YAYOI KUSAMA EVER SOLD AT AUCTION

20

製表 ∕ 陳惠黛 Odile Chen (Update 2022.02.16; Source: Artprice.com, Ravenel, SBI, K-Auction, Seoul, Est-Ouest, Sotheby's, Phillips)

11

12

13

14

15

版畫集永遠的愛 (十件一組) Amour pour Toujours 2000 Screenprint in colors Edition 57/60 38 x 45.5 cm each

南瓜 (黃色T) Pumpkin (Yellow T) 1992 Edition 42 / 120 +12AP 72.3 x 60.4 cm

南瓜 Pumpkin 1988 Screenprint, printed by Okabe Tokuzo Edition of 50 & 5 AP 90.8 x 67.5 cm

南瓜-紅 Pumpkin - Red 2006 Etching in colors on handmade thick weave wovepaper, published by Atelier Moret, Paris Edition 3/8 97.8 x 76.4 cm

南瓜 / 檸檬蘇打 / 草 Pumpkin / Lemon Squash / Weeds. From Print for Specially Bound Edition "Yayoi Kusama: Print Works" 1992 Screenprint; lithograph; etching Edition of 150 28 × 23 cm; 28 x 23 cm; 27 x 22 cm

預估價 Estimate

預估價 Estimate

預估價 Estimate

預估價 Estimate

預估價 Estimate

NT$2,400~3,400,000

KRW 120,000,000~ 180,000,000

KRW 120,000,000~ 200,000,000

GBP 60,000~80,000

JPY 3,000,000~5,000,000

成交價 Sold at

成交價 Sold at

US$138,811 GBP 107,100

成交價 Sold at

成交價 Sold at

拍賣日期 Auction Date 首爾首爾 Seoul Auction Seoul 2021.10.26

拍賣日期 Auction Date 首爾K拍賣 K-Auction Seoul 2021.07.23

拍賣日期 Auction Date 倫敦蘇富比 Sotheby's London 2020.10.13

拍賣日期 Auction Date 東京伊斯特 New Art Est-Ouest Tokyo 2021.11.18

16

17

18

19

20

南瓜-黃 Pumpkin - Yellow 2006 Etching in colors Ed. HC 3/4 122 x 100 cm

南瓜 Pumpkin 1983 Screenprint Edition of 75 AP 58.6 x 48.5 cm

南瓜-紅 Pumpkin - Red 2006 Etching in colors Edition HC 3/4 122 x 100 cm

南瓜 Pumpkin 1988 Screenprint Edition of 50 E.A 90.8 x 67.5 cm

南瓜-藍 Pumpkin – Blue 2006 Etching in colors Edition HC 3/4 122 x 100 cm

預估價 Estimate

預估價 Estimate

預估價 Estimate

預估價 Estimate

預估價 Estimate

NT$2,800,000~ 4,800,000

KRW 100,000,00~ 150,000,000

NT$2,800,000~ 4,800,000

KRW 90,000,000~ 150,000,000

NT$2,800,000~ 4,800,000

成交價 Sold at

成交價 Sold at

成交價 Sold at

成交價 Sold at

成交價 Sold at

拍賣日期 Auction Date 台北羅芙奧 Ravenel Taipei 2019.06.02

拍賣日期 Auction Date 首爾首爾 Seoul Auction Seoul 2021.08.24

拍賣日期 Auction Date 台北羅芙奧 Ravenel Taipei 2019.06.02

拍賣日期 Auction Date 首爾首爾 Seoul Auction Seoul 2020.10.28

拍賣日期 Auction Date 台北羅芙奧 Ravenel Taipei 2019.06.02

成交價 Sold at

US$ 159,493 NT$5,040,000 拍賣日期 Auction Date 台北羅芙奧 Ravenel Taipei 2019.06.02

US$136,708 NT$4,320,000

US$156,562 KRW 182,900,000

US$136,679 KRW 159,300,000

US$152,032 KRW 174,750,000

US$129,113 NT$4,080,000

US$124,466 KRW 138,000,000

US$137,667 JPY 15,730,000

US$121,518 NT$3,840,000

25


KATHERINEBERNHARDT

PINK PANTHER IN PATTERN PAINTING

「爆」-凱薩琳.伯恩哈特 變身粉紅 26


[ THE ARTIST ]

Text / 陳昱良 Iris Chen

Photo / All right reserved

© Katherine Bernhardt

金麥色直髮搭上超大耳環和粗 框 眼 鏡, 塗 著 淺 紫 色 唇 膏 與 金 綠 色 眼 影, 美 國 藝 術 家 ─ 凱 薩 琳. 伯 恩 哈 特 (Katherine Bernhardt) 曾 形 容 自 我 風 格就像熱帶風情的未來主義嬉皮,想將 最明亮、瘋狂的配色組合在畫布,她筆 下的粉紅豹、加菲貓、米奇有點變形、 有點可愛,怪怪又不修邊幅的樣子,吸 引時尚和藝術界的注目。美國藝術評論 家 傑 瑞. 薩 爾 茲(Jerry Saltz) 描 述 伯 恩哈特就像當代藝術的「女版壞男孩」 (female bad-boy); 創 作 概 念 和 風 格 都忠於自我且無拘無束。

伯恩哈特出生於 1975 年美國密蘇里州聖路易市,1998 年畢業於芝

藝術家照片 Artist photo. Photographs by Dina Litovsky. All right reserved by GQ.

加哥藝術學院(School of the Art Institute of Chicago)後,2000 年於

藝術家畫作 Katherine Bernhardt, Spaceage, 2019, acrylic and spray paint on canvas. Photo courtesy of the artist and Canada Gallery, New York.

限量米奇銅雕公仔 Katherine Bernhardt, What's Up (Disney Collection), 2020, Hand dry brush painting, bronze, edition of 80, 25(L) x 20(W) x 40(H) cm. Produced by APPortfolio.

紐約視覺藝術學院(School of Visual Arts, New York)取得美術碩士學 位,並創作於布魯克林區的工作室。「紐約客」曾評論其風格猶如融和 加勒比海、美洲和非洲文化的新原始主義繪畫。最初以崩壞的時裝模特 兒畫像為藝壇所知,後來加入非洲織物和荷蘭蠟印風格,用色越趨鮮明 大膽。2014 年後更改以「圖式繪畫」(pattern paintings),運用對比 強烈的色彩及流行文化的圖像,呈現於世人眼前。2021 年可說是伯恩 哈特的豐收之年,不僅正式與卓納畫廊(David Zwirner)合作,和品 牌 Heaven By Marc Jacobs 聯名推出秋冬系列商品,原畫作更是為市場 狂熱的支持不斷推升,並屢於國際拍場創造新高,單幅畫作突破二十萬 美元的成交紀錄。 伯恩哈特的創作與個人魅力,被視為美國當代藝術的新力量。流淌 的鮮艷顏料,收放自如的筆觸,主題直白率真的教人難忘:舉凡廁紙、 膠台、球鞋、西瓜、外星人、大嘴鳥、香菸、肺炎病毒;她創作擁有的 趣味性,是全球化時代共同的語言。伯恩哈特的藝術美學灑脫、凌亂、 華麗,如同一盆豐盛的水果沙拉。布魯克林公寓佈滿藝術家好友們的作 品,密蘇里工作室舉辦工藝手織品市集。無論創作或生活,伯恩哈特都 抱予無限熱情和可能性,旅居過摩洛哥、維也納、希臘、波多黎各,她 到墨西哥製作陶瓷,再回到聖路斯改造展覽空間,繪製大型壁畫。「我 很知足,卻也從不滿足。」伯恩哈特說:「我不喜歡浪費時間。人生很 短,因此我儘可能做好做滿。」

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其 作 品 並 為 卡 內 基 藝 術 博 物 館(Carnegie Museum)、高等藝術博物館(High Museum of Art)、 赫 希 洪 博 物 館(Hirshhorn Museum)、 魯 貝 爾 美 術 館 (Rubell Collection)、波特蘭美術館(Portland Museum of Art)、 聖 安 東 尼 奧 美 術 館(San Antonio Museum of Art)等公共機構所收藏。2017 年伯恩哈特於聖路易當代 美術館(Contemporary Art Museum, St Louis)完成公共 藝術項目,長達 18 公尺的超級壁畫「XXL 超扁平鬆餅」 (XXL Superflat Pancake)。而近兩年受疫情影響,回 到密蘇里州的伯恩哈特,於歐美各地推出個人和策展型 聯合展覽,社群活動與展覽依然熱絡。

In her iconic look consisting of straight blonde hair with big

Brooklyn studio. The New Yorker once described Bernhardt's style

earrings, thick framed glasses, lilac lipstick and golden green

as "A gusty batch of neo-primitivism paintings inspired by Afro-

eyeshadows, the American artist Katherine Bernhardt described

Caribbean, African-American, and African culture." Bernhardt

her own unique style as "tropically futuristic hippie." She

was initially notable in the art community for her portraits of

intends to mix and match colors on canvas in the brightest and

exaggerated fashion models. Subsequently, she introduced the

craziest combinations. Her portrayal of Pink Panther, Garfield,

elements of African textiles and Dutch wax-prints into the creation,

and Mickey Mouse as slightly deformed, adorable, strange, and

increasingly vivid and bold colors. She transitioned to "pattern

candid characters have captivated the fashion and art industries.

paintings" in 2014, presenting pop culture graphics in sharply

The American art critic Jerry Saltz has nicknamed Bernhardt the

contrasting colors to the general public. Finally, 2021 was the

"female bad-boy" of contemporary art, whose creative concepts

year of harvest for Bernhardt - not only did she start an official

and styles are truly genuine and boundless.

collaboration with David Zwirner and jointly launch an autumn

Bernhardt was born in St. Louis, Missouri in 1975. After graduating from the School of the Art Institute of Chicago in 1998, she obtained a master's degree in arts from the School of Visual Arts, New York in 2000 before launching her art career from a

winter series with Heaven By Marc Jacobs, her original paintings also continued to rise in market popularity. In the global market, auction prices reached new record breaking highs with a single painting surpassing $200,000 USD.

▲▼ 藝術家海外展覽場景 Exhibition view of Katherine Bernhardt at Galerie Xavier Hufkens, Brussels. Installation view of Katherine Bernhardt Gold at Art Omi in Ghent, New York.

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[ THE ARTIST ]

Bernhardt's creative and personal charisma have injected new energy into American contemporary art. Featuring flowing, vibrant paints, her flexible pen strokes and bold candid themes, such as toilet paper, Scotch Tape, running shoes, watermelons, aliens, toucans, cigarettes, and coronavirus are truly impressive. The sense of delight in her work is a common language in this era of globalization. Bernhardt's artistic aesthetics is unrestrained, chaotic, yet glamorous like a bowl of lavish fruit salad. Her Brooklyn apartment is filled with the works of her artist friends, while her Missouri studio has also hosted craft fairs for handwoven products. Bernhardt holds a passionate, open attitude towards both art and life. She has traveled across Morocco, Vienna, Greece, Puerto Rico, as well as created ceramics in Mexico before returning to St. Louis to upgrade exhibition spaces and paint large murals. "I'm satisfied and yet never satisfied," she says. "I don't like to waste time. Life is short, so I always try to do as much as possible." Bernhardt's works are in the possession of public organizations, such as the Carnegie Museum, High Museum of Art, Hirshhorn Museum, Rubell Collection, Portland Museum of Art, and San Antonio Museum of Art. In 2017, she completed a 18-meter long super mural titled XXL Superflat

Pancake for a public art project at the Contemporary Art Museum, St Louis. While Bernhardt has returned to Missouri under the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic in these two years, she has launched solo and joint exhibitions across Europe and America, remaining highly active on social media.

藝術家作品圖片(由上而下) All right reserved © Katherine Bernhardt. Katherine Bernhardt, Queres tostones, 2020, acrylic & aerosol on canvas, 182.8 x 198.1 cm; Katherine Bernhardt, Untitled, 2019, acrylic and watercolor on paper, 45.7 x 61 cm; Katherine Bernhardt, Plantains, Bananas & Toilet Paper, 2015, acrylic on canvas, 243.8 x 304.8 cm

KATHERINE BERNHARDT 29


DISCOVER THE HISTORICAL SPIRIT SHINING THROUGH THE GEMSTONES Text / 劉允華

Photo / Ravenel International Art Group

在寶石的璀璨中,看見歷史的靈魂

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[ LUXURY ]

在十七世紀,歐洲的探險家與投資者在此地立足,並開發印度知名 的可拉 (Kollur) 礦場前,戈爾康達 (Golconda) 地區已經是世界最重要 的鑽石生產地與交易中心。根據文獻記載,直到當時,此地區的數十個 礦場是全球兩千年來絕大多數的鑽石來源,最早的紀錄甚至可追溯至西 元前 4 世紀。 在引入勞力密集的工業開採後,Kollur 礦場開啟了鑽石大規模生 產的先河。當時 Kollur 地區的人口數約有十萬,而礦場在全盛時期的 僱 員 就 達 三 萬 至 六 萬 人 之 譜。Kollur 礦 場, 乃 至 於 Golconda 全 區 的 榮景一直持續到十九世紀中期,將近兩個世紀,直到礦脈幾乎耗竭為 止, 估 計 在 生 產 高 峰 期 間,Golconda 礦 區 的 產 量 達 到 一 千 兩 百 萬 克

拉,其生產的鑽石更始終以高品質著稱。世界最著名的藍鑽之一 Hope Diamond,即是產自 Kollur。今天,由於其特殊的化學結構與潔淨的品

A 1.02 CARAT RADIANT-SHAPED FANCY VIVID PURPLISH PINK DIAMOND 1.02克拉雷迪恩明亮形艷彩紫粉紅色鑽石 A 1.08 CARAT RADIANT-SHAPED FANCY DEEP PINK DIAMOND 1.08克拉雷迪恩明亮形深彩粉紅色鑽石

質,Golconda 之名,依舊是市場上具有相當重量的象徵。 近代最著名的礦區,則非澳洲阿蓋爾 (Argyle) 莫屬。這個以高品質 粉紅鑽著稱,白鑽產量也相當可觀的礦區,已於 2020 年停止生產並開 始土地復育計畫。

然而,就在礦區舉辦最後一場展售會的同時,世界同時見證了彩鑽 在市場上的地位不斷躍升。2020 年全球受到 COVID-19 疫情的影響, 普遍不振的寶石市場上,彩鑽表現依舊亮眼;而 2021 年的 Q1 已見漲幅, 至 Q3 為止,全年漲幅達 1.1%。其中來自 Argyle 礦區的表現更為優秀。 著名產區的歷史無疑讓這些鑽石更受注目,2021 年中,一場 Argyle 粉 紅鑽私人收藏的展售會便吸引了無數買家,33 顆鑽石的總售價預計將 達到一千八百萬美元。鑽石專業顧問 Anna Cisecki 在會中接受訪問表 示,自己的投顧公司在 Argyle 礦場關閉後,光是上半年收到的相關需 求數量,與以往相比就增加近 50%;另一位珠寶師 David Fardon 則表示, 過去 20 年間,Argyle 的標售價格漲幅高達 500%。整體而言,在過往 10-15 年間,粉紅鑽的價格平穩增漲了至少 10%,已可作為相當好的投 資標的。在傳奇礦場減產甚至停產的影響下,帶著閃耀名號的寶石自然 更為珍貴。 經過時間淬煉,在歷史上留下痕跡的傳奇礦場,在每一顆珍稀的 寶石上都留下了一點古老的靈魂。羅芙奧精品部認為,礦脈耗竭終有 時,但寶石流傳久遠的特性,使得逝去的礦區在市場上獲得新生,反而 成為足以提升價值的象徵。例如上文提到的兩個歷史著名礦區、停產百 年的喀什米爾藍寶石,以及受現實條件影響,隨時可能停產的哥倫比亞 Muzo 產區祖母綠等,都以出產極高品質的寶石而知名,也因此而成為 相當值得注意的投資標的。

The Argyle Diamond Mine is located in the East Kimberley region in the remote north of Western Australia. 阿蓋爾鑽石礦位於西澳大利亞偏遠北部的東金伯利地區

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Before the adventurers and the investors stepped on this land and develop the famous Kollur mine of India in the 17th century, the region of Golconda would have already been the most important production and trading center of diamonds in the whole world. According to the archives, until that date, almost all diamonds in the world have been produced by several dozens of mines in this region for more than 2000 years. The earliest record is up to the 4th century B. C. After introducing the labor-intensive measure of industrial mining, the Kollur mine had a head start on the route of largescale diamond production. The population of the Kollur region was around a hundred thousand at the time, the number of employees of the mines among them was up at 30 to 60 thousand strong. The golden era of the Kollur mine and Golconda region continued to the mid-19th century for nearly two centuries. The Golconda region produced, at its peak, to the scale of 12 million carats of highquality diamonds. The Hope Diamond, which is among the most

The world-famous Koh-i-noor diamond was found in one of the mines of the fort in Golconda. 世界著名的 Koh-i-noor 鑽石是在戈爾康達的一個礦山中發現的

Golconda Fort in Hyderabad, India. Golconda堡壘,位於印度海得拉巴

famous blue diamonds, was discovered at Kollur. Today, the past glory of Golconda keeps its prestige on the global market, due to the special chemical structure and the rare purity of its diamonds.

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[ LUXURY ]

Panoramic view of Kashmir valley in the Himalayan region 位於印度與阿富汗邊界的喀什米爾礦區,在喜瑪拉雅山海拔5000M的高山

In recent years, the Argyle mine of Australia stood proudly among

received 50% more demands for its gems in the first half of 2021; also

the most famous ones in the world. However, with all its high-quality

at the auction, one jeweler David Fardon admits that Argyle diamonds'

pink diamond and huge scale of diamond mining in general, the mine

value increased 500% in the past 20 years. Seen as a whole, the pink

stopped its production in 2020 and started plans of environmental

diamonds' price increased steadily, at the rate of 10% in the past 10-

recovery.

15 years, which is already a good investment. However, as we can see,

Nevertheless, at the same time when the mine held its last auction, the world was witnessing the status of colored diamonds taking leaps

gemstones carrying legendary names of the past would naturally deem a much higher value.

again and again in the market. In the shadow of the COVID-19 pandemic,

Tried by the times, every legendary mine left a trace of its historical

the global gemstone market grinds to a stop, yet the colored diamonds

spirit in every one of the stones it produced. From its observation, the

are still a marvel to behold. In Q1 2021, They have seen some upward

Ravenal group concludes that, regardless of the eventual depletion of

movements; seen at Q3 in the same year, the price would increase 1.1%.

the mines, the enduring character of gemstones will keep the glory of

Among their peers, Argyle diamonds performed even better, largely

old mines alive, and thus their value will undoubtedly increase. Such is

due to their historical origin. A prestigious private auction of Argyle

the case for the two historical mines, the Kashmir Sapphires which has

diamonds in mid-2021 attracted countless buyers and researchers,

seen its last production nearly a century ago, or the emeralds from Muzo,

presenting 33 pieces with the estimated total price of 18 million dollars.

Columbia. They are all known to the world for their unequaled high

At the occasion, diamond industry consultant Anna Cisecki said in

quality, and thus would be assets worthy of investor's intense attention.

an interview that after the closing of Argyle production, her company

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全球暖化正在改寫 你我所認識的葡萄酒 GLOBAL WARMING IS REWRITING THE WINE WE KNEW ABOUT Text / 唐維怡 Eva Tang

疫情稍稍鬆綁,和幾位半年多不見的酒友小酌, 酒友 T 說到:「那天看到一瓶波爾多葡萄酒,

2021 年開春以來,法國葡萄酒產區壞消息不斷,

酒精濃度超高 !!!」

從嚴重的春霜、冰雹、到黴害,一整年接連不斷的氣

「14 度? 14.5 度?」大家紛紛猜測了起來。

候災難讓法國各產區產量大減,總產量來到僅次 2017

「15.5 度 !!!」

年的新低;全球前三大的葡萄酒產國—義大利、西班

「15.5 度 ?! 波爾多以前不是大概都才 13 度左右嗎 ?!!」 T 一說,所有人都驚呼了起來。

牙、法國—2021 年加總的產量也較 2020 年減少 2,200 萬公石。

極端氣候正在成為新日常 儘管作為有著超過千年歷史的農業,葡萄酒農已 經練就一身經驗和功夫,能夠在每一次自然災害發生 的時候有所應對。舉例來說,當葡萄藤正值發芽時節 的冬春交接之際不幸出現春霜,有的葡萄農會在葡萄 園裡點上火爐拉高地面溫度,或是出動直升機來製造 空氣對流;若遇上多雨的年份,為防止濕氣過重而產 生發霉的現象、或是葡萄葉因為過於充足的水分生長 太快導致果實內部的糖分快速累積,也會投入人力來 增加葉子的修剪頻率,或是噴灑硫酸銅製劑以抑制黴 菌侵襲;若不幸遭遇冰雹,導致葡萄果實被打壞打傷, 則會在採收時間出動更多的人力進行果實的篩撿,確 保進入發酵釀製過程的葡萄是完整的;倘若遇上較為 炎熱的一年,則會提早採收的時間,讓葡萄果實的酸 度與糖分維持均衡的比例。越來越多新科技的發明更 讓許多問題有了全新的解決方案。 ▲

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為對抗霜害,部分酒農會對葡萄藤灑水,待水轉化為冰, 便會釋放熱能保持葡萄藤及芽眼不被凍傷(照片來源:Philippe Drouhin)


[ WINE ]

然而,過去十年來,葡萄酒農所遭受的天氣變化遠比 過去一兩百年來得更為激烈,過去偶爾出現一次的冰雹, 近年來在歐洲地區成了每年都要面對的問題。平均溫度上 的變化更是劇烈,過去三十年來,法國香檳區的採收時間 逐漸從九月末十月初提前到 2020 年的八月中旬,然而越來 越炎熱的平均氣溫導致葡萄藤發芽時間提早,春霜問題開 始成為常態;同時,即便提前採收,葡萄果實的酸度也逐 年在下降,幾個香檳大廠更開始提前佈局,擁抱無氣泡靜 態酒 (Coteaux Champenois) 的生產。法國波爾多更意識到 其種植面積最大的葡萄品種-梅洛 (Merlot) 已經在逐漸暖 化的氣候下越來越早成熟,從而導致新鮮水果風味的減少 和成品酒精濃度的不斷提升,因此更在 2019 年由國家原產 地命名與質量監控院 ( 簡稱 IANO) 宣布新增七個產地法定 品種。德國 Mosel 產區過去以酸度極佳的雷司令 (Riesling) 聞名全球,如今已經未雨綢繆地開始種植來自葡萄牙的品 種,對不可預期的未來作出準備。 ◀

美國西岸、澳洲,義大利南部和南法普羅

冰雹襲擊後受傷的葡萄串 (圖片來源:François Nascimbeni@L'Agence France-Presse)

全球暖化下,沒有人可以倖免於難,也沒有人是無辜的受害者

旺斯的粉紅酒產區也都在近年遭受多次熱浪的 猛烈侵襲,熱浪帶來的大火除了讓澳洲阿德雷

「葡萄酒農也太可憐了 ! 又是春霜又是熱浪 !」T 感嘆。

德丘產區失去超過 1/3 的葡萄園,加州許多葡 萄酒老饕所追尋的老藤更在旦夕間消失,周邊 倖 存 的 葡 萄 園 也 飽 受 煙 霧 污 染 (smoke taint); 即便未導致大火,極端高溫也會讓葡萄為求生 存而暫停果實的熟成,也可能因為過大的陽光

葡萄酒農確實是全球暖化之下的受害者,然而,釀酒過程大量的用水和包裝 運 輸 所 造 成 的 溫 室 氣 體 排 放 量 遠 超 乎 想 像, 根 據 UC Davis 化 學 工 程 教 授 Roger Boulton 的研究,釀造葡萄酒的碳排放濃度遠比飛機或是汽車高出五倍之多。

導致葡萄曬傷或脫水,進而影響葡萄酒的風味。

許多人直覺問題出在耕種和釀造方式。確實,根據研究顯示,酒莊在進行葡萄

不斷攀升的氣溫也讓原本靠著安地斯山雪水灌

發酵作業時,一公升的果汁會釋放出 60 公升的二氧化碳,過程中大量的用水和廢水

溉的阿根廷葡萄酒產區,竟也在這幾年面對了

產生也對環境帶來莫大的壓力。同時,採用有機農耕法的土壤從大氣中吸收的碳含

前所未見的缺水問題,產量逐年下降。

量是採用傳統農耕方式的八倍;因此有越來越多的葡萄酒農開始在葡萄園裡放牧牛

國際葡萄酒與葡萄酒組織 (OIV) 秘書長 Pau Roca 表示,近年來惡劣天氣越來越頻繁,令人 憂心的是,氣候變遷沒有疫苗可打,葡萄酒產

羊家畜,一方面控制雜草並增加土壤肥力,一方面停止拖拉機等耕種機械的使用, 既減少柴油的使用與溫室氣體的排放,同時也讓葡萄園中的土壤更有生命力,吸收 封存更多大氣中的碳,達到減碳的目的。西班牙 Torres 酒莊更進一步捕捉發酵時所 產生的二氧化碳,將其轉化為油漆產業所需的一項產品。

業正面臨著比疫情更加嚴峻的問題。

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然而出乎意料之外的是,根據香檳協會 (Comité Champagne) 針 對香檳產區的碳排分析,超過 30% 的碳排來自葡萄酒的包裝環節, 近 20% 來自運輸分銷,10% 來自農耕方式,位於西班牙的 Grupo ARCE 公司也以一瓶典型的西班牙白葡萄酒作為基準,運用英國標 準協會 (BSI) 的碳足跡評價方法學 (PAS 2050),計算出一瓶 750 毫 升的白葡萄酒從生產到酒瓶回收,約莫會產生 1.21 公斤的碳排放, 相當於轎車在正常速度下行駛五公里的排放量。其中,玻璃瓶所產 生的碳足跡占一整瓶酒的 56.1%,紙箱和軟木塞合計也產生近 10% 的碳排量,顯示包裝環節確實較釀造過程的 20% 還要關鍵。 過去酒類產業選擇採用玻璃瓶裝,是因為玻璃密度較高,能有 效阻絕氧氣與二氧化碳的進入,從而延長產品的保存期限。然而, 一個玻璃酒瓶從燒製到包裝前的巴氏殺菌,需要耗費大量能源;玻 璃瓶的重量更造成後續運輸上的碳排放量增加;其易碎的特性也造 成較高的破損率和額外的包材耗廢。更重要的是,由於回收獎勵不 高、再利用也非常麻煩,實際生活中有超過 60% 的玻璃瓶無法回收 再利用,而這樣的掩埋分解需要至少 100 萬年的時間。目前已將自 家酒瓶改為扁平長方形 PET 塑膠瓶的 Garçon Wines 總裁 Santiago Navarro 表示:「儘管很多人反對塑膠瓶,但眼下最大的危機是全 球暖化,若不立即做出改變,我們可能會先被熱死而不是被塑膠瓶

「越來越多的天災,葡萄酒產量越來越少,酒價應該會越來越 高吧 !」T 擔憂的說到。 「重點是,以後我們該不會捧再多錢都喝不到勃根地的 Pinot Noir 吧 !」講話一向犀利的 H 一針見血。 很難想像二三十多後的將來,我們可能再也喝不到來自勃根地 優雅的黑皮諾 (Pinot Noir),代表著甜美與新鮮果香的梅洛 (Merlot)

淹沒。」

將從波爾多的葡萄園中被拔除,原先冷涼的德國產區生產的竟將是 ▲

原先生長於法國南部的格納西 (Grenache),氣泡酒將從香檳產區消

加州北部納帕葡萄酒產區自2017年起多次遭受野火摧殘 (圖片來源:Kent Nishimura/ Los Angeles Times)

▼ ▶

失 ...,全球暖化為葡萄酒產業帶來的危機並非僅是眼前的春霜、

許多酒莊會在葡萄園中點蠟燭或是放置火爐,藉由拉高土地表面溫度, 防止嫩芽凍傷(圖片來源:Domaine Belleville)

熱浪與冰雹,更是全球生產版圖的改寫,產區風土的重新定義和葡

2021年的勃根地從四月份起就遭受嚴重的霜害打擊

萄酒傳統與文化歷史的挑戰。

(圖片來源:Jeff Pachoud / L'Agence France-Presse)

36


[ WINE ]

"You know what?! I saw a bottle of Bordeaux red with super high alcohol level!!!" T suddenly brings up the topic during our long time no see meet up. "How high? 14%? 14.5%?" people start guessing. "15.5%!!" T announced. "15.5%?!!! Weren't Bordeaux wine usually lie around 13%?" we cried out in surprise.

From severe spring frost, hailstorm, to mildew, all sorts of weather-related problems in France have been in the news since spring

the sugar level and acidity. Technologies also bring in new solutions, providing new possibilities.

of 2021. Climatic disasters have drastically reduced wine production in various regions, reaching a new low level for France second to 2017. For the three major wine producing countries including Italy, Spain, and France, the total wine production in 2021 had dropped 22 million hectoliter compared to 2020.

In the past decade, however, grape growers are forced to deal with more and more extreme weather situations than that in the past two centuries. Hailstorm that used to occur occasionally have become an annual problem in Europe. The rise in average temperature was even more drastic. Over the last 30 years, harvest time in Champagne

Extreme Weather is Becoming the New Norm

region has moved forward to mid-August in 2020 from the usual end of September or early October in the past decades. The increasing average temperature also leads to early germination of grape vines,

Grape farming is an agriculture with more than a millennium of

turning spring frost into another annual issue for grape growers.

history. To experienced grape growers, they have mastered solutions in response to various natural disasters. For example, to deal with spring frost that occurs when grape vines are sprouting as winter turns into spring, some grape growers would burn braziers to increase the ground temperature in the vineyard, or dispatch helicopters to create convection currents. In an extremely rainy year, extra workers would be hired to increase the rate of leaf trimming to prevent molds and mildews due to excessive moisture, or to prevent rapid accumulation of sugar inside the fruit due to too much moisture facilitating the fast

At the same time, even if grapes are harvested earlier, the acidity has decreased gradually every year. Thus, several major champagne wineries have made strategic plans to produce Coteaux Champenois (still wine). Grape growers in the Bordeaux region have also become aware that Merlot, the grape variety with the largest growing area in the region, is maturing earlier and earlier in the gradually warmer climate, resulting in a reduction of fresh fruit flavors and ever increasing alcohol concentration in the final product. Thus, the Institut national de l'origine et de la qualité (INAO),

growth of grape leaves. Copper sulfate is sometime sprayed to inhibit

the French national institute of origin and quality, has announced

the mold as well. Should a hailstorm hit a vineyard and damage the grapes, more workers would be hired during the harvest season to select the fruits and ensure that only grapes that are intact are used in the fermentation process. When the weather is above-average-hot throughout the year, grapes are harvested earlier to ensure a balanced proportion between

seven new statutory varieties and corresponding origins. Furthermore, the Mosel area in Germany has also begun preparations for the unpredictable future. Originally famous for making Riesling with excellent acidity, Mosel has begun to plant grape varieties from Portugal and etc..

37


Besides Australia and the west coast of the U.S., extreme heat waves have also affected the rosé wine production areas in southern Italy and Provence region in southern France. In Adelaide Hills, one of the major wine production areas in Australia, heat waves resulted in massive fires and destroyed more than 1/3 of the vineyards. Furthermore, wildfires also destroyed many California old vines sought after by seasoned connoisseurs in an instant, and the remaining vineyards in the neighboring regions were also tainted by smoke. Even without wildfires, extreme high temperature would lead to temporary suppression of grape maturation in an effort for the vine to survive. Excessive sunlight could also damage or dehydrate grapes, which may adversely affect the flavor of wine. In Argentine, many wine production region that used to rely on melting snow from Andes Mountains for irrigation, water shortage caused by continuous rising temperature has also ▲

大火之後,殘存在空氣中的煙霧會對附近的葡萄果實與葡萄藤造成所謂的煙霧污染 (smoke taint)(圖片來源:AP Photos by Eric Risberg)

Secretary-General of International Organization of Vine and Wine (OIV),

永續的葡萄栽種農法,減少化肥與殺蟲劑的使用,可以讓土地對抗自然災害的 耐受力較高,也能增加碳排吸附量。(圖片來源:discovercaliforniawines.tw)

resulted in the decline of production in recent years.

加州北部索諾瑪的一場野火,燒毀許多葡萄園

Pau Roca, has stated that harsh weather has become a frequent occurrence. Unfortunately, there is no vaccination available for climate changes. Wine industry is facing problems much more severe than the pandemic now.

(圖片來源:Josh Edelson@L'Agence France-Presse)

No One Can Escape from Global Warming, nor Claim to be an Innocent Victim

"It's such a pity that Grape growers need to face all those frost and heat!" T sighed. Wine farmers are indeed victims of global warming. However, the tremendous amount of water usage during wine-making process and all those packaging and transportation process create greenhouse gas emissions far exceeding our imaginations. According to research by UC Davis Professor of Chemical Engineering Roger Boulton, the carbon emission concentration level of winemaking is more than five times higher than that of airplanes or cars.

By doing so, not only the soil in the vineyard get fertilized, the weeds

Intuitively, people would believe that the problem lies in the

get controlled from growing, the discontinuation of tractors and other

methods of cultivation and winemaking. Research shows that about 60

cultivation machinery has also reduced the use of diesel oil and thus

liters of carbon dioxide is released to produce one liter of grape juice

lower the greenhouse gas emission. Moreover, the use of livestock

during fermentation process. Great amount of water usage and the

also increases the vitality of the soil in the vineyard, reaching the goal

production of wastewaters during the winemaking process also result in

of carbon-reduction by absorbing and retaining more carbon from the

a lot of pressure on the environment. In addition, when organic farming

atmosphere. In Spain, Familia Torres went even further by capturing

methods are adopted, the amount of carbon absorption by the soil is

carbon dioxide released during fermentation process and transforming

eight times higher than that of traditional farming methods. As a result,

the gas into different applications such as a product needed by the paint

more and more growers begin to keep cattle and sheep in the vineyards.

industry.

38


[ WINE ]

Surprisingly, more than 30% of the carbon emission of the wine

Traditionally, glass has been chosen by the alcohol industry

industry comes from the packaging process, according to carbon

because of its high density which can effectively block oxygen

emission analysis of the champagne production region conducted

and carbon dioxide, thereby extending the shelf life of the product.

by Comité Champagne. Nearly 20% of carbon emission comes from

However, from melting, forming to pasteurization prior to bottling,

distribution and transportation, and 10% from the farming method.

the making of a glass bottle require a lot of energy waste. The heavy

The Grupo ARCE company of Spain also made some calculations

weight of glass bottles also adds to the carbon emission amount during

based on the carbon footprint assessment methodology PAS 2050

the subsequent transportation process. Moreover, the fragility of glass

established by the British Standards Institution (BSI). Using a bottle

also requires additional packaging such as wooden box and bubble

of typical Spanish white wine as the basis, the research found that

bags, resulting in a higher rate of damage rate and material waste. More

a bottle of 750 ml white wine would produce 1.21 kg of carbon

importantly, due to low rewards for glass bottle recycling and trouble

emission in the process from production to recycling of the bottle,

in reuse, more than 60% of glass bottles are not recycled in reality.

which is equivalent to the emission of a car traveling five kilometers

Buried glass may require at least 1 million years to decompose. The

under normal speed. In particular, 56.1% of the carbon footprint of a

CEO of Garçon Wines , Santiago Navarro, who decided to turn their

bottle of wine comes from the glass bottle, while 10% of the carbon

wine bottles into flat-rectangular PET bottles, said that, "Even though

emission comes from the cardboard box and cork, which indicates

many people are against the use of plastic bottles, the biggest crisis of

that packaging process is indeed the most crucial part than the 20%

the moment is global warming. If changes are not made immediately,

emission produced during the wine-making process.

we will die of heat before we are drowning in plastic bottles."

" There are more and more natural disasters, and wine

Burgundy. The Merlot grape variety that represents sweetness and

production are decreasing each year. Sounds like the price of

freshness of berries will be chopped down from the vineyards in

wine will only go up and become more and more expensive in the

Bordeaux. Riesling that was originally suitable for the cool and cold

future!"T murmured.

weather region in Germany will be replaced by Grenache now planted

"The most important thing is, we might not get any pinot noir from Burgundy even if we have the money!" H , a sharp-witted girl who always spoke her mind, points out.

now, we may no longer be able to obtain elegant Pinot Noir from

area.... For the wine industry, the challenge posed by global warming is not just the immediate problem of spring frost, heat waves, or hailstorm, but a complete redrawing of the global wine production

It is difficult to imagine that two or three decades from

in southern France, and bubbly wine will vanish from Champagne

map, redefinition of the natural production environment, as well as a rewrite of wine tradition and cultural history.

39


六 星 級 40

環 保 精品酒店 MONTE UZULU


[ TRAVEL ]

Text / 伊森

Photo / Juan Pablo Tavera y Alfredo Parker

坐 落 在 墨 西 哥 瓦 哈 卡 州 擁 有 1000 年 歷史的茂密叢林中,感動於人和自然 共 處 的 環 保 酒 店 設 計, 一 趟 深 度 旅 行,體認友好地球的真實經歷。

41


42


[ TRAVEL ]

位於墨西哥瓦哈卡州小漁村和聖阿古斯蒂尼約海灘

為了適應當地炎熱的天氣,Monte Uzulu 酒店採取源於

(San Agustinillo) 的 Monte Uzulu 酒店,以重新發現大自然

墨西哥西部傳統的帕拉帕 (palapa) 開放式建構,特點是和

的「真實」與融入在地「和諧」的方式,展現未雨綢繆的

通往瓦哈卡叢林的樓梯相連的六個矩形空間是對稱的結構。

環保意識;一種與自然平衡的體驗重新定義了精品酒店的

至於可移動木牆和人字形茅草屋頂,不但有助自然通風,

價值。

同時又能遮蔽刺眼的陽光。

Monte Uzulu 的 名 字 來 自 gusulú 一 詞, 也 是 該 地 區 土 著薩波特克人意指 " 開始 " 的意思。 委 託 墨 西 哥 設 計 工 作 室 Taller Lu'um 和 建 築 工 作 室 At-te 的酒店坐落在非常原始的叢林中,實際上是距離太平 洋僅幾步之遙的一處沙丘。設計團隊儘可能地保留樹木生

酒店十一個各有特色的房間分別以極簡和波西米亞風 格美學為主調,每間房都有可俯瞰森林和海洋的全景露台。 套房內以帶有地方色彩的稻草燈和手工籃筐為裝飾;瓦哈 卡木匠雕刻的木製家具以及棉紡織品,則是向墨西哥手工 藝的一種致敬。

長原貌,換言之,減少對環境的影響。而大量使用當地天 然材料,如木材、泥土和乾棕櫚葉作為建材,甚至酒店粉 紅色的牆壁都以泥土、石灰和手工混合覆蓋的灰泥完成。

SAN AGUSTINILLO

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對自然環境的關注,除了採用當地木作 和稻草等原生材料為室內裝飾;浴室沐浴產 品全部也都是由可生物分解精油製成。Monte Uzulu 酒店更專業的投入還包括許多以減少對 環境影響的思考,包括回收廢水和再利用系 統。雨水收集、天然水池和生物消化器,提 供將有機廢物和細菌轉化為可再利用的資源。 特別是對於水資源,酒店開發了廢水處 理 系 統, 可 以 做 到 100% 地 再 利 用。 另 外, 通過三個供水源-水管、公共管道系統和收 集雨水來供應酒店洗手間、淋浴和浴缸的用 水。另外被引導到人工濕地,處理後送回酒 店供廁所用水。最後,廢水還可以作為灌溉 花園。 就像太平洋的日落,酒店的照明設計基 於必要性,及運用光影之間尋求平衡以創造 環境的溫暖光線營造放鬆氛圍。即使是夜間, 也考量避免酒店照明過度照射到外面叢林, 力求尊重棲息地和海洋夜間生物的活動週期 和生長環境不受干擾。

44

MONTE UZULU

再利用水資源及尊重棲息地的照明


[ TRAVEL ]

有意識的體驗 薩波特克人的創造之神是月亮、星星和太陽。我們都是平等的,人 與自然的完美和諧,與我們的起源有關,與萬物的開始有關。 這就是 Monte Uzulu 酒店意識到追求平衡的一種體驗。我們是自然 的一部分,希望將地球上所有的基本資源視為共有,並試著維持環境的 和諧;最重要的是,這樣的思考,激勵來此住宿的遊客,希望改變人們 與地球生態的聯結方式。因為,只有創造共同利益,才能享有地球。 酒店的設計來自於對瓦哈卡海岸的熱愛,也試著轉化成為旅客體驗 的一部分。建造過程中不但力求尊重大自然,刻意保存周圍叢林,除了 善用自然資源,尊重綠地最大平方米的規定之外,通過利用在地建材; 收集雨水及循環廢水 100% 再利用,減少污染和干擾,一起有意識地體 認置身平衡的自然環境中,友好地球。

45


NFT NFT 時尚也瘋

NFT NFT

46


[ ART ]

Text / 袁青

Photo / Gucci、Burberry、Louis Vuitton、

Ralph Lauren、Prada

NFT 數字世界中,時尚的商機不可限量; 巨大的,身臨其境的虛擬模式, 讓時尚重新思考行銷和創意靈感的取向。

當 新 冠 肺 炎(COVID-19) 肆 虐 時, 很 多 人 都 上 網 了, NFT 也就真的起飛了。 從「谷歌」搜尋次數和速度,可以確信「NFT」(NonFungible Token 的簡稱)絕對是目前全球最夯的新話題。因為 不論你是否搞不搞得清楚 NFT 是啥 ? 光是 2021 上半年就己創 造了 25 億美元的銷售額。 數 字 藝 術 家 Beeple 在 佳 士 得 拍 會 會 創 下 6,900 萬 美 元 NFT 成交價,一夕成名;也印証了世界級藝術拍賣會也接受 了加密貨幣以太坊的出價虛擬拍賣。 疫情把世界動推向虛擬後,也加速精品線上化的速度。 眼前,「數位化」顯然是時尚精品業下一個跨界合作的發展 趨勢。一向緊盯未來,不放過任何風吹草動的時尚產業當然 不會坐失良機,也紛紛加入與 NFT 的互動。 根據數據統計預測,2025 年將達到 1,000 億美元的奢侈 品市值,預估同年全球虛擬商品市場也將來到 1,900 億美元。 可以想見,隨著越來越多 NFT 時尚精品,將是牽動銷售業績 和創意的決勝點。「結合線上遊戲,」透過虛擬分身活躍於 社群媒體、價值觀與上個世代迥異的 Z 世代,有高達 90% 是 電子遊戲玩家。缺乏品牌忠誠度,但卻重視永續和互動的這群 潛在客群,可能正是決定精品市場變革速度與深度的關鍵 。 電子遊戲絕對是這個世代重要的媒介。當時尚精品意識 到自行打造互動遊戲,比任何置入行銷都有力,因為透過沉 浸在遊戲的互動和體驗感的 NFT 虛擬世界,有利於高端、遙 不可及的精品時尚,變得觸手可及。

47


48


[ ART ]

NFT 化身當代藝術 不過,高端精品對於 NFT,卻是步步為營,也因為舉步謹慎,因此 各有各的切入和盤算,但積極涉足虛擬領域和新世代對話及世界接軌, 甚至不乏跳脫傳統的時尚 NFT,GUCCI 推出 NFT 微電影彷如神來之 筆,再次點亮了精品的藝術價值。 可不是嗎?只要幾分鐘內即被搶售一空的 NFT 精品,證明時尚已 經進入另一種新的消費模式,而奢侈品也不再只是幾件珠寶和衣服配 件,而躍升為足以代表品牌風格的「當代藝術」了。 NFT 時 尚 單 品 的 出 現, 早 在 2019, 美 國 3D 虛 擬 時 裝 公 司 The Fabricant 就 已 經 在 以 太 坊 大 會(Ethereum conference) 上 成 功 拍 賣 過 一件 NFT 高級定製服,成交價 9,500 美元。這件「彩虹裙」Iridescence Dress 被富比士(Forbes)評價為「世界上第一件純數字、只存在於區 塊鏈上的服裝」。 在此之前,把錢花在虛擬衣服上,真的是「很有事」? 但這些原本 牽強的想法,現在隨著 NFT 持續發燒,虛擬概念反而成了時尚的王道,

也迅速成為追逐 NFT 夢想的人的新戰場。「數字所有權」在 NFT 市場 上創造的稀有性和獨一無二,激起數位世代無限渴望。 說到潮, NFT 市場首先發難的是運動鞋品牌。但令人意外的,第 一 個 推 出 NFT 球 鞋 的 卻 是 亞 瑟 士。 一 馬 當 先 在 最 大 的 NFT 拍 賣 網 站 OpenSea 上線 9 款 NFT 球鞋,每款 20 個 NFT 限量款加 1 個黃金限量版。 運動風潮領頭羊 adidas 愛迪達和 Nike 耐吉當然不會閒著;先是愛 迪達和 Decentraland 合作舉辦了一場虛擬時裝展覽,產品也以 NFT 的 形式拍賣。急起直追的耐吉則將 NFT 轉了個彎,運用在訂製運動鞋的 項目,更為 Crypto Kicks 的 NFT 流程申請了專利。 Ralph Lauren 精品透過數位搶攻新世代年輕消費族群的動作就是首 創主題式的虛擬體驗;Ralph Lauren 的平台社群開發團隊精心打造了一 個擬真的冬日情景,玩家可以自由試穿獨家的時尚單品,甚至透過參與 遊戲和每日投票結果改變環境;當然最終的互動來自在「Polo Shops」 試穿和選購時裝,為虛擬的角色設計獨一無二的造型。

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NFT 百年時裝品牌

GUCCI 這家義大利時尚品牌就捨精品而選擇與亞歷山 德羅.米歇爾 (Alessandro Michele) 合作的一部影片敲 開科技藝術之門。 2021 年,Gucci 創 意 總 監 亞 歷 山 大. 米 凱 萊 (Alessandro Michele)和知名攝影師芙羅莉亞 西基斯 蒙 迪(Floria Sigismondi) 共 同 執 導, 為 慶 祝 GUCCI

BURBERRY

GUCCI 第一個推出

一百周年,名為「詠嘆調(Aria)」的 4 分鐘「微電影」 成功地在佳士得秋拍,以 25,000 美元售出。 不過。對於頂級奢侈品牌,NFT 時尚並非只是表 象用數字取代實體服裝;相反地,這倒是是高高在上 的精品運用虛擬的展售作為拉攏年輕世代及拓展新興 市場的機會。 Burberry 有 史 以 來 第 一 次 與 遊 戲 公 司 Mythical Games 的 Blankos Block Party 合 作 推 出 自 己 的 NFT。 開 發 可 在 遊 戲 中 購 買、 升 級 和 出 售 的 可 愛 鯊 魚 Blanko, 吸 引 不 少 年 輕 消 費 者 関 注。「 有 了 令 人 興 奮 的 NFT 概 念, 玩 家 在 藝 術、 設 計 和 探 索 中 體 驗 Burberry。」

50


[ ART ]

LOUIS VUITTON

解決遊戲中的 NFT Louis Vuitton 路易威登不愧是精品龍頭,當下決定以熟悉的遊戲領 域作為虛擬數字 NFT 的。而且立馬找上當紅的美國數字藝術家 Beeple 合作開發了一系列 NFT,展現品牌的藝術高度。 實際上,LV 在 2019 年首次與 Riot Games 的多人在線遊戲英雄聯 盟就建立合作夥伴關係。並為遊戲中的某個角色設計服裝,甚至推出 一個膠囊系列。而慶祝創辦人 200 歲誕辰,LV 特地推出一款免費手遊 《LOUIS THE GAME》,透過一系列結合時尚與科技的 NFT 遊戲,在 屬於「威登式」的冒險故事裡重新認識品牌。 有 趣 的 是, 大 多 數 時 尚 品 牌 都 將 的 NFT 置 於 封 閉 系 統 中, 例 如 Balenciaga 和 Fortnite,擁有一個可以在不同遊戲平台和數字世界中移 動的虛擬壁櫥。而 LV 的 NFT 不可出售或交換,僅存在於遊戲中。 51


Dress from a Dream 豪奢大夢 NFT

顯然,Dolce & Gabbana 對 NFT 的策略與其他奢侈品 牌不同。2021 年高級定製時裝盛會上首次亮相與數字 市場 UNXD 合作推出名為 Genesi 的 NFT 系列。 9 件 獨一無二,涵蓋 Alta Moda、(女裝)、Alta Sartoria (男 裝)和 Alta Goilleria(高級珠寶)的系列作為 Dolce & Gabbana 的第一款 NFT。具有博物館等級手工製作, 名為 "Dress from a Dream" 的數字服裝系列,引起不小 關注。 D&G 決定推出加密貨幣遊戲的 NFT 市場並非瞄準 年輕客人;相反,Domenico Dolce 和 Stefano Gabbana 這對鬼才設計師要吸引的是他們現有的豪奢大戶。 放眼未來,NFT 將以更多話題吸引新興族群。如 何更便捷、簡單的方式提供 NFT 的互動體驗將左右主 流消費,成為時尚未來的決勝點。《華爾街日報》(The Wall Street Journal)形容,NFT 已經成為一種文化現 象。或者可以說,NFT 開始顛覆人們對未來虛擬生活 的想像。

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[ ART ]

NFT?

Non-Fungible Token

[名詞解釋] NFT:

是 Non-Fungible

To k e n 的 簡 稱 , 不 可 替 代 的 代 幣。NFT 將 數 字 藝 術 品 和 其 他 收 藏 品 轉 化 為 獨 一 無 二 的 、可 驗 證 的 、存 儲 在 區 塊 鏈 上 可 交 易 的 資 產 。大 多 數 數 字 文 件 都 可 以 變 成 NFT, 但 在 時 尚 行 業,NFT 主要是通過圖像來實現。

潮牌 NFT

RTFKT Studios 蹭到馬斯克 搶先一步的潮牌 RTFKT Studios 在官方 IG 上發了一

Studios 的品牌知名度。之後,每個月都在自家網站上推

張「特斯拉」總栽馬斯克在 2018 年 Met Gal 典禮上穿著

出平均 15,000 美元左右拍賣價,全數銷售一空的「虛擬」

很酷的球鞋走紅毯的照片,瞬間引發網友們討論。但隨後

鞋,最後連上衣系列都如法炮製。用數位貨幣買到的虛擬

被證實,這雙被 P 上去的鞋,根本沒有實體。馬斯克穿的

球鞋,用戶可以通過 AR 濾鏡,在 IG,Snapchat 等社群媒

是一雙「虛擬鞋」。

體上公開,當然還可以把鞋穿在自己的遊戲角色上炫耀。

儘管這雙存在於虛擬世界的鞋子,但靈感源自馬斯克

RTFKT 品 牌 成 立 於 2019 年, 成 為 銷 售 虛 擬 運 動

推出電動貨卡 Cyber truck,因此,最終仍以 15,000 美元

鞋 的 專 家。 他 們 最 初 和 只 有 18 歲 的 流 行 加 密 藝 術 家

(約台幣 41.5 萬元)的價格售出,而現在在 RTFKT 官網

"Fewocious" 合作,設計了 3 款虛擬運動鞋,競拍者可以

的價格早已經超過 6 萬美元。

通 過 Snapchat「 試 穿 」 鞋, 然 後 競 標。 出 價 最 高 的 還 會

蹭 到 馬 斯 克 的 人 氣 流 量, 也 順 勢 打 開 了 RTFKT

獲得同款實體運動鞋。果然,不出所料,7 分鐘內就售出 600 雙,總價值 310 萬美元的 NFT。

53


MICKEY & MINNIE 90th Anniversary Text / 方紅

Photo / 丹意信實集團

米 奇 & 米 妮 牽 手 90 年 54


[ FASHION ]

距離 1928 年 11 月 18 日,迪士尼第一部有聲動畫片

奇 老 鼠 依 舊 單 身, 但 不 需 要 婚 姻 也 很 快 樂 的 他 卻 決 定 和

首映日,至今己近一個世紀;而這天,也正是沒有任何一

一起主演了 70 多部電影,在粉絲心目中並列留名的女友

個虛構的卡通人物能夠超越其影響力的 Mickey Mouse 米

Minnie Mouse 米妮同慶。自 1928 年首次以標誌性的蝴蝶

奇老鼠的生日!

結亮相後,在交往已久的男友米奇拉檯下,傳遞歡樂能量

眾所皆知,米奇就是一隻大老鼠,但迪士尼動畫對劇

的米妮也成了名列迪士尼明星之一。

中人物的描繪十分生動,甚至塑造了簡直就像大明星一般

隨著時間推移,迎來 Mickey 與 Minnie 誕生 90 週年,

真實的魅力! 1929 年,華特迪士尼決意為米奇畫上了白

迪士尼和義大利陶瓷品牌 Bosa 再度合作。以裝飾風格為

色手套之後,「擬人化」的這個卡通角色幾乎就定了型。

品牌識別聞名的 Bosa 早己建立陶瓷藝術市場地位,而常

一直來到 1978 年,米奇老鼠 50 歲生日,終於成為好萊塢

被 收 錄 在 世 界 級 國 際 博 物 館 和 陶 瓷 藝 術 展 覽, 其 藝 術 價

「星光大道」上第一位刻上名字的卡通人物!

值,可見一斑。2018 年,Bosa 就以一身穿著塗鴨白色短

平均每十年,全球鼠粉就會共襄盛舉為他慶生,今年 是米奇老鼠 90 歲生日,九十個年頭了,Mickey Mouse 米

如 今,90 周 年, 米 老 鼠 新 作《Urban Minerva》 再 一 次展現被收藏家和博物館爭相典藏的名氣與實力!設計師 Elena Salmistraro 跨越插畫、設計和視覺藝術的創意,絕 對是翻玩迪士尼經典的關鍵;而 Bosa 以豐富色彩及黃金、 鉑與銅等貴重金屬的獨特古法陶瓷技藝,也功不可沒。

褲、自行車短夾克、鉚釘綠鞋,帶有都會潮流造型《Mickey Forever Young》,讓這隻紅白黑相間的陶瓷米奇老鼠,一 夕成為搶手的珍藏藝術品。

展示陶藝超越時代的前衛感,也為米老鼠深植人心的青春 活力注入絕妙想像。 右腳烙印有專屬限量序號,穿著鮮艷櫻桃紅短夾克、 街頭藝術圖騰緊身褲的 Minnie 米妮,呼應著塗鴨白色短 褲的 Mickey 米奇,一對向迪士尼歷史「原創」致敬的限

Bosa 金屬色調與特殊啞光效果的陶瓷上釉工藝,刻意

量陶瓷,帶來的不只是人們對 Mouse「米老鼠」強烈情感

點亮了米妮的粗戒指、手鐲及經典蝴蝶結和圓點裙,不但

的連結,也反映 Z 世代對「公仔」藝術價值瘋狂的渴望。

55


壬寅

獻春

56

Text / 袁青

Photo / 蕭邦、古馳、林曉同


[ FASHION ]

「虎」你 ! 躍入壬寅年,

亞洲市場展露對絕佳應景「生肖」 之創意和狂熱。老虎五行屬土, 是 藝 術 創 作 常 見 的 創 意;生 肖 虎 堅 定 樂 觀 , 象徵財富與智慧、聰穎與創意。

57


蒔 繪 虎

自 2013 年以來,蕭邦錶為保存完好蒔繪漆藝,推出面盤飾有 十二生肖為靈感圖案的蒔繪腕錶已成為一項傳統。今年,L.U.C 系 列迎來限量發行 88 只年腕錶,雋永優雅。 蕭邦與百年歷史的日本山田平安堂工坊攜手合作,歷代傳承蒔 繪工藝;L.U.C XP 蒔繪錶面盤,由日本國寶蒔繪大師小泉三教先生 親手繪製,均需耗費至少 160 小時的細緻工序。 遵循蒔繪工藝,L.U.C XP 蒔繪以產自日本漆樹(Toxicodendron vernicifluum)生漆原料製作的漆層之間,灑入金箔,作為熠熠生輝 的襯景。繁星下,老虎揮舞虎爪,轉身一嘯,顯露力量與威嚴,彰 顯寫實與詩意之美。 錶殼以符合倫理道德標的 18K 玫瑰金製成。錶直徑為 39.5 毫米, 厚度僅為 6.8 毫米;如此纖薄精巧的厚度,有賴於腕錶所搭載的 L.U.C 96.17-L 型錶廠自製 3.30 毫米機機芯。儘管尺寸極小,機芯仍具備 自動上鏈功能。由 22K 金質製成的偏心微型擺陀,擺陀具有強力慣 性,提升雙發條盒的高效上鏈效能,使腕錶具備有 65 小時的動力儲 存。即使兩天半不佩戴,腕錶依舊能精準運行,不必掛心上鏈。

典 藏 虎 Gucci 端出 1960 年代末典藏設計;開創品牌經 典 Flora 圖 案 的 藝 術 家 兼 插 畫 家 Vittorio Accornero 以粉嫩繽紛的嬌花嫩草作為映襯的老虎圖騰,反映 對大自然嚮往。但這種充滿玩味的手法連繫過去與 未來,也標誌著時尚與時代的對話,「時間」才是 永不枯竭的靈感。

#GucciTiger 58


[ FASHION ]

獨特風格的老虎形象,浸潤著不同醒目色彩 GUCCI TIGER 印花字樣,與經典扣式 GG 圖樣或源於馬術靈感的 綠紅綠織帶印花相互融合;更採用手工鉤編和印花、貼飾 與刺繡元素呈現手繪風格的「虎」感。 Gucci 2022 虎年首次實現全方位環保材料製造的腕錶 更是一大亮點;主要來自可持續、可再生的生物基原材料, 從錶殼由可回收精鋼鑄造、錶盤與錶帶採用無動物成分原 材料的 Gucci 環保材料 DEMETRA™ 製成;為貫徹 Gucci 永續發展的願景,所有購物袋均採購自負責任管理森林 的 紙 張, 提 繩 採 用 100% 循 環 再 造 聚 酯 纖 維 製 造, 並 以 100% 有機棉的緞帶繫於袋上,避免使用膠水。#GucciTiger

金 臥 虎

傳承七千年東方歷史文化的珠寶 代表「玉石」,是當代華人承載平安 象徵的情感連結。 珠寶藝術家林曉同,以故宮劉松 年《瑤池獻壽圖》為靈感,結合西方 的 時 尚 幾 合 元 素, 開 創 嶄 新 3D 玉 雕 手法,再度翻轉玉石,詮釋跨越時空 與傳統技法的限制,打造「金虎臥福」 溫暖祥和。 穿越時空的珠寶設計,將西王母 贈予,意寓長壽與誕生祝福的蟠桃果 和 12 生肖結合。宛若立體雕塑的造型 老虎,靜臥在立體 3D 心型蟠桃玉上, 取「臥虎、臥福御守」,承載庇佑與 守護之意。

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