THE GERLÓCZY CAFÉ PAPER
HN DOUG
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Y EVERY DA AT FIVE
BREAKFAST SPOT - SAUSKA 113 CUVÉE TO GO WITH YOUR MACKEREL ONE-NIGHT STANDS RELOADED - AN ODD PAIRING: DOUGHNUT WITH RUM
T.NAGY TAMÁS ---->
THE GREEK BREAKFAST
GERLÓC ZY: ’BEST BR EAKFAST IN THE C ITY’ TimeOut Budape st
MORNINGS ARE NOT GOOD FOR LOVE, OR IF THEY ARE, I’VE NEVER HAD ANY LUCK WITH THEM. I EVEN FIND IT HARD TO MAKE FRIENDS AT THAT TIME OF DAY, ALTHOUGH I’M AN EARLY RISER. I HAVE AN IDEA WHAT TO DO AFTER WAKING UP, BUT I’LL SPARE YOU THE DETAILS. THE FEW PUBLIC EVENTS INCLUDE BREAKFAST; BUT I’M NOT TOO PROUD OF MY HABITS IN THIS AREA. IT MIGHT BE WISER TO GIVE YOU OTHER PEOPLE’S HABITS TO SET AN EXAMPLE. In the name of propriety, I’d like to start with my mother. I don’t think anyone could imitate her freshness in the morning. It was due to her profession; she prepared breakfast for a couple of hundreds of kids in a suburban kitchen, six days of the week. She lit the fire at 4 in the morning, as gas was not so fashionable at the time, then started boiling, kneading and baking what she’d kneaded. I was one of the lucky ones even then; I got the first freshly baked milk-loaf. I sat by her side every single morning. I’ve never met a child psychologist in the morning, nor have I been ever told what the struggle at dawn was about. This, or some other abnormality made me unable to regard this morning meal in keeping with the demands of the civilized world. My relationship with muesli is a fundamental deciding factor in all this.The world is changing, so are mornings. My luck hasn’t run out yet, so I woke up in various points of the world. I’ve eaten burek in Beograd, loved it. Scrambled eggs made of egg powder in San Francisco, horrid. In London, I had beans and bacon for two weeks, if I could, I’d give it to everyone for free. In Lyon, I frequented the embankment market, I’ll never forget it. In Nuremberg, I made friends with frankfurters, the Frankfurter one is still my favourite. In Singapore, fried blood with onions is unheard of; in Barcelona my daily morning treat was a meter of churros. So I’ve tried some breakfasts already, but the Greeks had the biggest influence on my habits. I still don’t know if I’ve fallen victim to a marketing stunt or if I learnt what only the Greeks can do in the morning. The Greek breakfast. Let’s start with the marketing. The handsome, curly-haired Greek comes blundering. He picks up a piece of chalk, and scribbles his morning offerings on a slate board. English breakfast for three, American for two, and Greek for one euro. Be honest, coach holidays to Greece are not about lavish spending; although some people are natural born misers. Even if they don’t need to be. Imagine the inner struggle of a Bavarian standing in front of the slate board facing the question of national pride or the honour of hardly earned money. It can’t be decided on an empty stomach, so they skip breakfast. The buffet breakfast at the hotel is different. It’s not a place for idealism. We splash around the orange juice. In the morning, we pay attention to our health. If we don’t have to pay for it. There’s no sadder thing than making breakfast alone (having breakfast alone feels almost like punishment). The social aspect can add a lot to a breakfast; everyone likes something else, as everyone pays attention to details in the morning, and need to have at least their morning drink personalized. By somebody else. Thus a good breakfast can lest till midday. But it’s different in Greece. We don’t waste time, the sea is waiting. We pay and leave. We’ve covered the target group from the marketing viewpoint, let’s move on to the details of supply. First we have to decide between savoury and sweet. Don’t think it doesn’t matter. As I’ve mentioned, the buffet breakfast is a whole other thing, there you can combine the two. Whoever does that, good for them. Where’s the sophistication, the tradition and the childhood, the smile of the mother, the advice,
the longing, and everything that makes us who we are. Don’t do that, I pray! Greeks don’t do identity crisis. They learn the two most important Greek words in the cradle, and they cling to them all their lives. The sequence is not necessarily taught, but perhaps it’s not important. So the first essential expression is phonetically ’siga-siga’. It has multiple meanings. Don’t rush my friend, don’t be hasty, slow down; it has different meanings in different situations. The other important phrase is ’avrio’, that is tomorrow. In Greek it can mean even a week; if I’m not mistaken, Easter is the only adjustment point; but the point is aviro doesn’t mean now by any means. If you know that, you won’t be waiting in vain in front of the corner café, you walk away, you don’t anticipate. The Greek know who has a day off, without time limits, of course. The point is that somebody is up and running, ready to cook ’gliko eliniko’. It’s off topic, but I’ll tell it anyway. As a young adult, I spent summers by Lake Balaton. Don’t draw any far-reaching conclusions; I wasn’t on holiday, I served breakfast. I still don’t understand why we had to open the restaurant at six, but it’s worth mentioning that the sales team were right, we had full house by quarter past six. Not even the host could tell who’d woken up the guests. I didn’t want to let sleeping dogs lie, and decided to find out where they had to rush after breakfast. With two jugs in my hands (rumour had it they had coffee in them); I’m not gonna lie to you, nobody called it coffee, everybody demanded ’kentien mocha’ from me; I hid by the entrance. I noticed many people heading to the lakeshore holding tight to something, apparently crumpled banknotes, then taking position with deck chairs on their backs. They sat down in their deck chairs - don’t forget we’re talking 7 in the morning -, and waited. Béla was already shouting at me to stop being silly and head to table two on the left. Everything was destroyed by 8, so I thought I could return. By that time there was a crowd sitting in deck chairs; but the second wave, the family, the kids were already on their way; then the daddies stretched and gave over the reserved places to the family. Seeing all this all my frustrations were gone, I held onto the two jugs tighter, and I swore never to have breakfast nor to reserve a deck chair at 7 in the morning. I’ve become a gentleman since then, I made my way to the top, and now I know that a free man does whatever he likes in the morning. I don’t take risks, I do my best so that my guests can eat and drink whatever they like. I only care for the croissant made of butter pastry, the frankfurter in sheep gut, the hot and spicy sausage. I’m friendly with the curly-haired Greek. I like the Greek breakfast concept. Coffee, cigarette and the paper. I know. You don’t have to tell me it’s awful, even if I might have counter-arguments. For one, it’s cheap, it comes without cultural misunderstandings, you can get it even at the speed of Greeks, not to mention that it lasts for the whole day. I am in the process of quitting, I’m cold on the terrace, but I need a cigarette and the heat. I might take a while to adapt to a new mode, but come what may, I’ll never reserve a deck chair at 7 in the morning. A Greek would never do that.
BREAKFAST MENUS in Gerlóczy: SIMPLE MENU Cappuccino + croissant CLASSIC MENU Croissant with ham and cheese + 0,2 l fresh orange juice PEASANT BREAKFAST Scrambled eggs with potatoes and onion, fried sausage, peasant ham, paprika, tomato, bread HEARTHY MENU „Sizzling” Vienna frankfurter, fried bacon, scrambled egg, aged cheese, salted butter, roll
GERLÓCZY ---->
? THE GERLÓCZY GUEST WHAT IS A GUEST AT GERLÓCZY LIKE? WE ASKED OUR REGULARS, AND WE KEEP ASKING THREE OF THEM FOR EVERY ISSUE, HOPING THAT WE CAN SOLVE THE MYSTERY OF WHAT MAKES A GERLÓCZY GUEST.
ILDIKÓ MIKLÓS
Dr. TAMÁS BICZI
KATALIN JUDIT ELEK
I was walking in the city centre five or six years ago, and I happened upon a small square with a café on one side. In short, this milieu reminded me of Paris... That’s how I first met Gerlóczy and it was love at first sight. A couple of days later a friend of mine wanted to show me a new place. Shall I tell you where we went? To Gerlóczy. And we’ve kept coming here ever since, to enjoy the magic and the gastronomy of the place in rain or shine.
A French friend of mine introduced us. He said it was a piece of Paris.
In 2007 I worked as a consultant on the Photo Auction of Kieselbach Gallery. We held our meetings in Gerlóczy, that’s how I find the café. It was love at first sight, because the place reminded me of Paris where I spent six months altogether on art scholarships. I studied in Academy Julien, and I’ve loved Paris ever since. Especially in the spring when everyone is carefree, smiley and naughty.
Sure I have, as the winner of Gerlóczy’s ’waiting for spring’ game. I won a one-night-stand including dinner, accommodation in one of the wonderful rooms and breakfast for two. I loved everything; the rooms are stylish, elegant and comfortable. I can only recommend them. My parents got a one-night-stand for their wedding anniversary, but to be honest, their one-night-stand’s been going one for 40 years now. They loved their present, they cherish the memory of it.
Unfortunately I haven’t yet. But I was lucky enough to be given a tour before the opening. It evokes the golden age of Budapest.
No, not yet. But if I ever happen to a tourist in Budapest, I’ll make sure to choose the most romantic attic room.
Spring fairy, probably in kindergarten. It was captured on a photograph, I had a lovely dress and I even managed to get a magic wand.
One of my favourite films is ‘Much Ado about Nothing’ by Kenneth Branagh. I had the characters’ uniform.
I clearly remember my Picúr and Pom-pom (Hungarian cartoon characters, ed.) costumes from elementary school, but my favourite was an angel costume in a project of artist Róbert Szabó-Benke.
What do you do and what have you been up to lately?
As our favourite Misi waiter puts it, I’m a ’busy and important banker’. It’s partly true, I do work in a bank. I’m an economist, and I deal with process development. MA-URI, a Polynesian healing technique is also an important part of my life.
I’m a lawyer. I’m working on the plaintiff side on an environmental case concerning 282 people, hoping to reach a settlement.
I’m the owner and art director of Rododendron Art and Design Shop, so I work with designers, graphic designers and artists. Currently I’m working with Tomi Fluor on an exhibition of his pictures. As I have a qualification in photography and design management, this is an absolutely fitting task.
What’s your favourite breakfast dish here?
I frequently have breakfast at Gerló, I love the cappuccino. It’s great sipping it under the leafy tree in summer mornings. And also in chilly winter mornings. I’d also like to highlight a dish for another part of the day, the grilled mackerel. It’s simply delicious and really addictive. Moreover, the fans of Marco’s mackerels come from far and wide to explore this harmony of flavours again and again. (My other half is one such fan...)
The house pâté. But I also love the French toast.
When I feel like indulging myself, I have an Espresso Crema Shakerato with a croissant. When I want to have a light and healthy breakfast, I choose a spicy smoothy, the mango-green apple-cinnamon one for example. Or I simply sip a freshly squeezed green apple juice. Preferably on the terrace.
How did you find Gerlóczy?
Have you ever slept in Gerlóczy Rooms deLux? What’s your judgement?
What has been your most memorable carnival costume?
MARCI GERLÓCZY ---->
FISH TERRACE As the Croatian European Union membership referendum was held only recently, it’s time to ask Mackerel Marco about his views on the European minority, the hermaphrodite oysters. ‘The Croatian public is divided on this issue’ says Marco. ‘According to the latest poll results, 66% of Croatians are in favour and 34% are against the hermaphrodites.’ It is a well-known fact, that the oysters in the Pacific Ocean live as males in their first year, then part of the population become female and the rest remain male in the second. One of the French oysters in the fridge tells us that ‘the oyster communities of France, Great-Britain, Ireland, the Netherlands and Spain are greatly concerned about the Croatian referendum. The reason of hatred is simple. They know nothing about as, and you’re scared of everything you don’t know. It should be made clear, that we oysters are remarkably nutritious and healthy. Our energy level is relatively low, and we’re rich in vitamins A, B1, B2, B3, B12, D, and E and minerals. No other filter feeders can claim the same. The other reason is jealousy. It is present not only in Croatians, but also in mackerels and shrimps. But we can’t help it. We oysters have been around for 250 million years, whereas the ancestors of the Croats arrived on the Balkan peninsula in the 7th century. It’s well-known that Aphrodite travelled from the sea to the land by an oyster, so basically, this jealousy is the same age as Europe itself, the community the Croatians now wish to join.’ Marco listens to the French patiently; then grabs his oyster knife, opens up its valves and leans closer to it. ‘Say that again.’ ‘That’s what I’m talking about’ confides the oyster. ‘These are animals.’ A small-scale scuffle follows, joined in by two shrimps and a big swarm of mackerels. The shrimps hold down Marco, pushing his head onto the grill, and the big swarm of mackerels sprinkle the Croat’s head with olive oil. ‘How does that feel now? Eh?’ shout the big swarm of mackerels. Marco is struggling, trying to push the barrel with his foot. He manages to break free from the hold of the shrimps. He pulls out a bottle from his pocket. ‘I just wanted to offer you a swig’ he pants with the bottle in his hand. ‘What’s that? What’s in your hand?’ asks the oyster. Marco pours fresh, plankton-rich seawater on the oyster. The big swarm of mackerels wipe the blood off their mouth and hops on the grill, and the shrimps crawl back into the fridge. ‘Vive la France!’ shouts Marco. ‘Zdravo!’ replies the oyster, and turns into a woman. They walked home together at dawn, allegedly.
NESDAY EVERY WED IN THE MACKEREL NU! LUNCH ME
TIBOR BABICZKY ---->
GOT SEN T OUT TO THE S TREET? Have a s moke on the heated t errace of Gerlóc zy!
THANK YOU FOR SMOKING! In my jolly good old days, I liked French cigarettes. That slightly scratchy yet elegantly light flavour. The tiny gesture that made each cigarette individual: although the packet featured the brand names in plural (Gauloises, Gitanes), the ’collar’ of the cigarettes had them in singular (Gauloise, Gitane). It is a littleknown fact that for fifteen years between 1920 and 1925 Gauloises was a ’Hungarian’ brand called Hongroises. Probably in order to emphasize the exotic nature of the tobacco blend. Eventually the state tobacco monopoly ruled that cigarettes must be French patriotic reminders, that’s how the Gauls entered the picture. In the current hysterical situation smoking is in I don’t think it’s cause for regret that the legendary French product no longer bears our ’name’. ’Witches do not exist’ stated Kálmán Könyves. Although we have known this since the 11th century, the past thousand years have, in some regards, been about witch hunts. Sometimes about more than one, simultaneously. Man is a wonderful and paradox creature. In himself he is meek, aspiring for agreement and collaboration. When, realizing the common good, he forms a group, he somehow feels it to be his duty to prosecute something, be it an earthly power or a people, or an 8.5 centimeters-long paper roll filled with finely cut tobacco. And hatred is always stronger from the outside than the disagreements within the group. In Pápa, where I went to school in my jolly good old days, our regular haunt was Café Árkádia. The waiter was a hunting vest wearing, moustached elderly man. He was a funny sight, his back was bent, his hand gestures rigid, and he had a spring in his step. He never seemed to have a day off. But he never looked tired. Nor did he look happy or sad. He had a considerable belly under his vest, yet he managed to look translucent. In Árkádia, everyone, with the exception of the old regulars with reserved seats by the bar, sat on the terrace hidden in the tiny inner courtyard from spring till the autumn. But in the wintertime, we got stuck in the vaulted pastel rooms. I don’t remember if Árkádia had any non-smoker guests. Anyhow, on winter afternoons, you couldn’t see a thing through the smoke. But smokers were also different then; sometimes the terrace door was opened in an attempt to air the room. I can still recall the well-timed exclamations: ‘Close it at once, will you? Stink has never frozen anyone to death.’ Who was the first to say the words and when? How many generations passed on this winter ritual? And where did the sentence come from? My guess is military service. And to complicate things further, as far as I remember, they didn’t sell cigarettes in Árkádia. The maitre d’ jovially directed the interested parties to trafik (tobacconist, ed.) by the church corner. There are no trafiks anymore. So this strange little word that has both a Mediterranean twang and a Central European coolness about it, is slowly but surely deflating and disappearing. Trafik arrived from Italy (traffico means shop) via Austria (Tabaktrafik means tobacconist). Somewhere, in the beginning of chapter seven to be precise, in Krúdy’s novel, My Jolly Good Old Days the Andrássy Avenue tobacconist arrives at the pub called Vienna. ‘A bearded tobacconist, who is
nicknamed Irma due to his popularity in the world of the ladies of the night, is famed for smoking a whole Britannica cigar sourced from his own shop, without any of the ash of the falling off. Irma has often performed his party trick in the winter garden of the Orpheum, sometimes the musicians even stopped playing when the ash of the Britannica seemed to be in danger. He played the trick with Virginia cigars too, but only after lunch in the old Pletánovics restaurant on Andrássy Avenue, at the table by the window. But it is not true that the bespectacled tobacconist smoked cigars for money.’ My regular haunt is not Árkádia anymore, but Gerlóczy in Budapest. Where the reaction to this teacher-like mambo-jumbo passed to protect non-smokers was the only acceptable solution: one of the most authentic achievements of European civilization, the heated terrace. Tamás T. Nagy is a frequently spotted smoking in this open air hall to the world. Gerlóczy protects non-smokers, while –and this is something others seem to have forgotten about –keeping the smokers’ dignity intact. The Smoking Terrace doesn’t force you to loiter about, it’s warm and provides a good view to the square and the street. The guest can remain a guest here. This is one of the last stands of normalcy, ‘a European mid people barbarous, white'. Thanks for that. We have to accept the present, and aspire to understand it. But during long train journeys and in the restaurant upon arrival or before leaving, in the city, in our regular pub and café smoke will be missed. This missing will remind us of a world embedded in and measuring up to eternity. A world where man was considered to be more than only material, where his tendencies and passions were taken into account. In the meantime, a new (real) world was built from literally nothing, where people don’t smoke anymore, but which literally deconstructs itself into subatomic pieces. It finds nothing there, it remembers nothing anymore, so it appoints nothing to be the standard. And it doesn’t see beyond the next second. Gerlóczy keeps perspective alive.
IMPRESSIONISM The show of Károly Ferenczy's oeuvre in the Hungarian National Gallery is part of an exhibition series, consisting of large-scale solo exhibitions that review the history of Hungarian modern art. The name of Károly Ferenczy is mainly remembered in connection with the Nagybánya Colony of Artists that began in 1896. By shaping of a Hungarian version of impressionism and postimpressionism, Károly Ferenczy was considered one of the founders of modern Hungarian painting art. The works of art are not shown in chronological order, does not focus on various periods of the artist in terms of style but are revealed along the line of motifs Károly Ferenczy painted through his career. For Károly Ferenczy family, both as emotional fortress and intellectual medium was extremely important. The material on display consists of nearly 150 and 80 graphics. The selection focuses on the most important works of art from the artist from Hungarian and international public- and private collections. Over sixty works are from private collections. HUNGARIAN NATIONAL GALLERY 1014 - Budapest, Szent György tér 2. Open: Tue-Sun 10-18 Phone: +36 (1) 201-9082
October - 1903
IS TONIGHT THE NIGHT? ONE NIGHT STAND ON THE HORIZON! Every couple dining at Gerlóczy Cafe in February has the chance of spending the night in the nicest room of the Gerlóczy Rooms de Lux and the best breakfast in town. Every night at 9 we organize a raffle and announce the lucky couple winning a marvellous FREE NIGHT in Gerlóczy. DON’T DESPAIR IF YOU DON’T WIN THIS TIME. WE TAKE EVERY COUPLE HOME AFTER DINNER BY TAXI, anywhere in Budapest. Surprise your loved one and book a table on our toll free number: 06 (80) 102600 toll free number
FIND LOVE IN GERLÓCZY! AFTER LAST YEAR’S GREAT SUCCESS, IT IS A MUST FOR US TO CONTINUE WITH THE TRADITION. WE KEEP OUR PROMISE, AND HAVE ONE-NIGHT-STANDS AGAIN IN GERLÓCZY. As mentioned on the first page, ‘mornings are not good for love’, but evenings are very much so. Especially in Gerlóczy. We haven’t asked for the expert opinion and advice from some love guru, so we don’t know for sure if it is due to the connecting streams under the building or the metro lines, but there is a tangible romantic vibe here that makes Gerlóczy a recurring feature in various love stories. It has been the spot of a number of great first dates (last week to be precise), of marriage proposals, of one-night-stands, weddings and wedding nights. Not to mention the romances between waiters and chefs. It’s easy to find love in Gerlóczy you see, especially in February ...
GERLÓC ZY: ’THE BE ST PLAC E FOR A ROMAN TIC DINN ER’ Lonely P lanet
A marriage proposal can occur all of a sudden or after careful consideration. In the case of architect József Martinkó, the milieu and style were two deciding factors in proposing to designer Barbara Szöllôssy in Gerlóczy. That memorable dinner last December is cause for nostalgia...
GIFT CARD
Rita Ruszina and Tibor Vincze spent their wedding night in Gerlóczy in January; and they decided to celebrate their future wedding anniversaries here, too.
Gerlóczy tip (not only for Valentine’s Day) Treat your loved one to dinner and a fabulous night in Gerlóczy. HOW TO DO IT? Buy a Gerlóczy Gift Card at the reception. We top up your card with the amount of your choice. Next time you come to Gerlóczy, you can pay and even open your room’s door with your card. Book your table and room in time! This Valentine’s Day is going to be something special ...
TAMÁS T.NAGY ---->
THE MILKA COW LEANING OVER A GLASS OF WATER, I REMEMBERED TIBOR BARTOS’S THOUGHTS, AND RECITING THE LINES FROM ‘A BLESSING IN DISGUISE’, I HAD A REVELATION. This Tibor is a smart fella, an economist in green disguise. He fathomed the market processes of space management, and summarized his theory as follows: the water is clean when I turn the tap; then I drink it, bathe or wash up in and wash with it, or just madly let it flow and it’s already sewage. I have to treat it like the flood. To divert it, far away from here, never to see it again. Yet if I bought sewage and kept it in a bank where they also launder money, and have it laundered there until the national flood comes –as on schedule as the flood as they say nowadays -, I could even sell it. And if my water really got laundered in the bank, then everybody who’s taken me for a fool would, now that my bank-cleaned water is cheaper than what comes from the waterworks, say I’m a shrewd one after all. All I have to do now is find a bank for my water. Not an emergency reservoir. That one should store the drought, that’s an emergency. In my bank, in the marsh, among the reeds, in a quiet creek, my water gets cleaner by the year. In downtown Budapest, a lot of water ends up in the emergency reservoir; there’s less and less people letting the water flow to the reeds. Emergency reservoir has been locked and barred up, there’s drought in them. They’re being space managed by the smart ones looking for a bank for their water, in order to sell it later on. At this point in the theory, it’s time I cleared the water. I mentioned space management above, where I should have noted emptied shops instead. I’m wondering when this part of the capital (its geographical centre is in Kôbánya) has been flooded by sewage. In the ‘70s and ‘80s, the wind was blowing from the west. That wind was called boutique. It brought along profits of hurricane-ish proportions, only to land in wallets and briefcases. Cash registers were unknown at that time, bookkeeping was based on hearsay. Then things changed. We left the cabbage with the goat, unanimously, in the name of the people. The people moved in the office, the immigration office I reckon, to put things in order. They cast a vote. Streets got paved, public spaces got tasteful restrictive signs, tables, parking meters, barriers. Emergency reservoirs must be protected. They’re protected by men dressed in black. Because black is so friendly.
Dams protect the danger but keep out the clear water; as Bartos says whoever keeps it away is looking for a bank for the water to sell it later on. Whether this strategy will work out, I don’t know. I despondently watch the decline and the empty shops while looking for the old crowd, the hustle and bustle that was. The trust I see on the Gerlóczy terrace in the sunshine is somewhat comforting. I consider it to be strength, hope if you like, because I agree with Bartos that the ‘Milka cows need green pastures and hogs need hogwash. Both of these need water. Winter fodder, hayfields, cornfields, butterfly bushes, and swill: all need water. If we let our sewage flow straight into our drinking water, then sooner or later we will have to draw upon and clean our subterranean water to make it fit to drink for humans and animals alike. For we have heard of helicopters distributing mineral water to flooded villagers in Bereg County, but were the cows given Perrier to drink? If not, then what did they drink?’ I will ponder about all this in the future, I won’t discuss it now. I put aside the water glass, I pour a glass of champagne instead and set myself in festive mood. I look for company, so I sit down to another table. Here in the reeds where I’m cleaning the water, or to put it simply I run a business, I like to have a conversation, especially when there’s champagne in my glass. Champagne is not booze, it’s a way of life, even more so when you don’t like it. A lot more people drink champagne than like it. Maybe the moral absurd applies here, that even bad intentions can lead to something good. I still don’t understand it though. Why is it so easy to let personal ambition, pride and the want of power be the motivation behind our actions? How is one supposed to recognize to be driven by them? I can answer that. Let’s say somebody looks out the windows of Gerlóczy Café and sees the locks and bars on nearby shops. He reaches into his pocket, finds a key that doesn’t belong to him, and starts looking for the owner of the key. He does all this because he realizes that we will have to draw upon and clean our subterranean water to make it fit to drink for humans and animals alike. It takes wisdom to accept that bean is meat. It’s a question of will; but trust me, it will cause trouble when it turns out that not all cows are purple.
GERLÓCZYRecommends: DOUGHNUTS FOR FEBRUARY In February we fry doughnuts with raspberries and apricots, just like the ones our grannies used to make for the carnival season. EVERY DAY FROM 5 p.m. Try one while they last!
ERY NOW EV ES EL COM MACKER ENTARY OMPLIM C A H IT W F WINE GLASS O kaj To Sauska ée 113 Cuv
BUDAPEST CITY OF FLAVOURS Cuisine is an essential segment of Hungarian culture. This book is much more than a simple cookery book; besides describing excellent recipes it also introduces foreign readers to our culinary culture. Embark on an adventure into Hungarian gastronomy from the legacy of ancient Rome through Renessaince feasts to the delicious present. Budapest - City of Flavours (Holnap Kiadó)
MENU: 9 50 FT DOUGH NUTS + RUM PE RUANO 2006
TRIPADVISOR: 7TH FROM 335. Gerlóczy achieved a record-breaking ranking on the travel advice sharing website, TripAdvisor.com. Thanks to all who shared the Gerlóczy experience.
THE USUAL, PLEASE! Most of the time invisible, the embodiment of discretion, at other times firm, polite, like an old acquaintance he might call you by name; as you enter Gerlóczy he opens a time gate. Csaba Baranyai maitre d’, the soul of Gerlóczy is one of those who, by some cheeky accident, got embroiled in this deep-frozen high-tech age. His every move and gesture shows that deep inside he lives in the ’20s, wrapped in the scent of lively cafés, he replies any questions in keeping with the sophisticated requirements of old-fashioned gentlemen and well-bred ladies. His calling is kindness and elegance. ’ A good maitre d’ is like a valuable piece of furniture’ Csaba tries to put it simply. He has to be asked repeatedly to find out how much more complex the maitre d’ ars poetica is. He doesn’t hold the official qualification, but he’s an experienced psychologist. Also, a a real café maitre d’ is really hard to find. In the golden age, it was fashionable in the cafés of Pest that the top of the French hospitality hierarchy, the maitre d’ welcomed the entering guests. The maitre d’ used to be the confidant of regulars, he carried the careful airs of a good master around the house, and he know exactly what was meant by ’Waiter, the usual please!’ It was only a year ago when Csaba left behind a five-star castle hotel in favour of Tamás T. Nagy’s invitation to Gerlóczy, but he says it feels like he’s always been here. Thousands of moments captured, dozens of tiny secrets trusted in him are tucked away in the depths of his suit pocket: ’a maitre d’ doesn’t tell. He listens, and if the guest requires, he chats’ he says. Who knows how many times a day he has to pull out from that pocket the word or gesture suitable for the given situation and the given guest, be they a smart pickpocket, a tired waiter, a heckler or simply moody guest, or even Jeremy Irons. ’I’ll never forget it, I had real stage fright’ he remembers how the Gerlóczy team surprised the actor always buried in books and papers on his birthday. Jeremy Irons frequently came to Gerlóczy when shooting The Borgias, and he was made a customized Gerlóczy t-shirt presented by Csaba in a convenient moment. It was a no frills affair, as always, in perfect discretion. We chat by a tea, Uncle Gergô is playing the harp in the background, and Csaba keeps telling me stories. For example the one of how he made friends with a Norwegian couple over a tiny courtesy on the Gerlóczy terrace. You see? This is how the image of the country improves. Réka Klementisz
KAM-CHAT-KA IN THE HOUSE We asked Márta Schulteisz, the creator of Kam-chat-ka (www.kamchatkadesign.com) to re-create our uniforms while sipping her favourite coffee. She started with the girls. We’re looking forward to seeing the end results.
THE OYSTERS ARE HERE Find the freshest oysters straight from Bretagne on our Fish Terrace before the season ends at the end of April.
«--- Márta is measuring up Heni Hegedüs.
Half a dozen: 3,250 Ft A dozen: 6,500 Ft
SOMETHING’S COOKING IN THE IVORY TOWER Come spring, even our website will be renewed. The two gentlemen in the picture are Attila Ort, owner and managing director of Ombrello Media and Péter Flanek, the graphic artist of Gerlóczy. They often have coffee together to talk, brainstorm and argue about the new Gerlóczy site. We’ve been told they sometimes talk about tennis, too. The new website is available form 1st March. --- www.gerloczy.hu
BAR CABINET BEHOLD OUR NEW BAR CABINET, THE HOME OF OUR NOBLE DRINKS The key to the bar cabinet is hidden in our maitre d’s pocket; he keeps, handles and serves our extraordinary spirits be they gin, rum, cognac, whiskey or vodka.
Gábor B. Antal helped with the selection.
THE CANARY AFFAIR Lóczy is always up for something. This time it’s family planning. Lóczy is incubating her eggs while Jacquette is vigilantly guarding the nest. Meet their family on the gallery. By the time our spring issue comes out, the little one will have already hatched its egg. We’ll be careful to choose a more fitting name this time ...
CHAI LATTE India’s answer to cappuccino has arrived. Ask for your spicy, sweet tea with a touch of milk in Gerlóczy.
«--- Rita Benyó and Szabina Majzik
STRANGE FACES AT GERLÓCZY Photographer Doron Ritter has started a photo portrait series with the most interesting guests of Gerlóczy. He’s been observing patrons for years, and decided to make their portraits week by week. If you’d like to be pictured in your favourite coffee house, email us on info@gerloczy.hu. The portraits will be published in Gerlóczy News and on our Facebook page. STRIKE A POSE!
RUM+DONOUGHT
CAUGHT AN OSTRICH
Originally, the Caribbean sugarcane distillate was called rum. As for the origins of the name, it most probably came from the shortened form of the Latin name for sugar (saccharum). Other sources claim it derived from the word for uproar, rumbillion. As the etymology of its name, the origins of the drink itself are also vague. The first distillations occurred on Caribbean sugarcane plantations in the 17th century. The slaves working on the plantations realized that molasses, a by-product of sugar production can be fermented into alcohol. Distillation increased the alcohol content, and thus rum was created. Tradition has Barbados as the birthplace of rum, other say it comes from Puerto Rico.
Éva magazine had their carnival photo shoot in Gerlóczy. Our red third floor proved to be a great setting for the carnival vibe and the ostrich. The pictures speak for themselves.
The major rum producing hubs of the world are in the Caribbean, and in some Central and South American countries. The Spanish-speaking countries mainly produce white rum; the Englishspeaking islands are famed for their darker, full-bodied rums. French-influenced countries produce rhum agricole, a type of rum not made of the cheaper and more frequently used molasses, but of freshly squeezed sugarcane juice. In keeping with traditions, Carnival season sees doughnuts on the menu at Gerlóczy. We brainstormed on what drink we should recommend to go with our doughnuts, and rum proved to be the perfect ‘chaperon’. We chose the 8-year-old Rum Peruano 2006 to accompany the raspberry and apricot jam doughnuts of Gerlóczy. The intense vanilla and woody notes of the rum nicely compliment the sweetness of the doughnut and the fruitiness of the jam. Leave the car at home and give it a try! Feel like exploring this mythical drink and munching on some doughnuts? Let six types of rum get you in the mood, and embark on an all-Caribbean adventure on 9th March at 6 p.m. Rum Clement Premiere Canne, Rum Clement VSOP, Rum Clement Shrubb Creole - Martinique, Rum Renegade Cuba - Kuba, Rum Millonario Solera 15 éves - Peru, Rum Peruano 2006, 8 éves - Peru Photo: László Emmer
THIS YEAR SPRING COMES BACK! - TEASER Terrace and heart opening: we dust off the garden chairs, tables and our hearts, so that they’re ready for moving out to under the elm tree in March and staying there until November. Take a seat on the most Parisian terrace in downtown Budapest. We turn into bloom and grow a lawn on the terrace, and reveal our spring-summer menu of exciting new dishes and drinks. The rest remains a secret for now... but until then, savour some oysters (still available in April). We always stock the freshest specimen while theirs season lasts... In May, we take the square again. KAMERMAYER PICNIC returns and promises to be more fabulous than ever...
VOILA! WE NOW HAVE ROOMS IN THE ATTIC. BOOK AN ATTIC ROOM ON OUR TOLL FREE NUMBER: +36 80 102 600 INTRODUCTORY PRICE BEFORE 1ST APRIL: 65 EURO + BREAKFAST 12 EURO/PERSON
The renowned levitating bed, the claw-foot bathtub, the spiral staircase and the study corner
ARE Y OUR F OREIG BUSIN N ESS PA R TNERS COMIN G TO T OWN? Sleep them in Ger lóczy! Reser va +36 8 tion at 01 toll fre 02 600 e num ber. The rooms cost 90 euro/night/for 2 + 12 euro/breakfast/person or try our new attic rooms on an introductory price at 65 euro/night+ 12 euro/breakfast/person Gerlóczy Rooms de Lux above Gerlóczy Café: 1052 Budapest, Gerlóczy u. 1. IMPRESSUM: Contributors: Tamás T. Nagy , Márton Gerlóczy, Réka Klementisz, Tibor Babiczky, Regina Bruckner, László Emmer, Doron Ritter English Editor: Aranka Szabó Design/photos: Péter Flanek Printed by Intruder --- e-mail: marketing@gerloczy.hu Published in 1500 copies by Gerlóczy Kávéház Ltd., 1052 Budapest, Gerlóczy utca 1. Open: Monday-Sunday 7am-11pm