THE GERLÓCZY CAFÉ PAPER
A BLONDE AT GERLÓCZY - BÉLA’S CHOICES - BIRD FEEDER DESIGN COMPETITION - GIFT IDEAS
DÓRA ESZE ---->
<---- TIBOR BABICZKY
BORN ON 24 DECEMBER WHAT DO DÓRA ESZE, TIBOR BABICKY AND JESUS HAVE IN COMMON? FIND OUT IF IT’S A BLESSING OR A MISFORTUNE TO BE BORN THAT DAY TWENTY-FOUR
CHRISTMAS CAROLS
If I had as many goldfish as my date of birth received unwanted attention, the largest room in our flat should have long been converted into a fish tank. ‘So Baby Jesus bought you.’ ‘At Christmas?’ ‘You must have been a heck of a present!’ ‘Seriously? On Christmas Eve?’ The truth is, it was on Christmas morning, at ten past ten, the Aquarius ascendant stressing and easing the weight and lightness of the Capricorn sun sign. My name really means present –but aren’t all children that? Without exception. A child by definition is a miracle from above, whichever day of the year it drops to whichever corner of the planet. So it would be fairer and more accurate to give everyone on Earth the first name Dora. I often encounter sympathy. How few presents I must have been given when I was little. Surely I was undeservedly overshadowed. I couldn’t experience what everyone deserves that for one day of the year the world revolves around me from morning till night. At this point I have to do justice to my innocent family. We have always kept vigilias, way before I came around. Unfortunately since my grandmother, the prime minister and gene bank of the family passed away, this tradition has faded into oblivion. But when she was alive, we always celebrated Christmas Eve. Some everyday Catholic traditions, such as giving a boy his father’s first name, are well known. And there’s the second round. It is almost as strong, but for some unfathomable reason it has faded from memory. First-born girls were given the first name of their maternal grandmothers. Vigilia is also one such tradition. Strictly speaking, Christmas Eve is no different: Christmas is on December 25th and 26th, the 24th is the vigilia. To get back to me, my Christmas and birthday presents were really well separated at the time. Only now that I’m an adult the two are blurred, as I basically don’t get any presents for neither occasions. And I don’t regret that for a second. I think parents do not need their own Christmas. At least I seem to have transferred to another dimension where I feel fine. I only care about my sons’ sparkler rain. Once, however, for the sheer sense of adventure, I jumped out of this beautiful bond. I decided to move everything forward by four months and four days. For one night only I experienced the life of a Taurus. In that particular year, for a once in a lifetime event, I gathered everyone I could on April 28th. And I asked for presents. A box of matches. And I got one from all my relatives and friends. Each one of them wrote a single word inside the box. A word that I reminded them of. Of what the two of us shared. Of what I meant to them. The rest is easy to guess. That it’s possible to live without miracles, just not worth it. That a hand-made present is still the best. That turbulent, passionate day only proved to me that Christmas is insanely good all year long, just as being born is a brilliant thing. But when life looks at you then looks at you again, and decides to smooth you onto this world at Christmas, there’s only one thing you can write inside your matchbox: Thank you.
Being born at Christmas is one thing; but when one can come as a surprise, now that’s a big deal. I managed to do just that. I was due on 21 January, yet for some reason I began my journey to the outside world on 24 December. Feet first, of course, but there were no more surprises. That day, at least. A Christmas birthday teaches one to be humble. Make no mistake: Jesus takes it all. Beside him one hasn’t got a chance to build some kind of personality cult. If one’s born on Jesus Christ’s birthday, one has to quit egotism. My father calls me in the morning of 24 December every year to wish me a merry Christmas. I, in a very diplomatic manner, wish him the same, his Christmas to be merry. The we hung up. My father usually calls back the same afternoon, sorry, sorry, I forgot it again, but you know, with Christmas and everything, so, happy birthday, son. Thanks. Overall, I like the elusive nature of my birthday. That I don’t have to pretend that I have anything to celebrate. That I don’t have to do anything with the time from one birthday to the next. My years go by without interruption, I neither age nor stumble, I just stand aboard the ship by the railings looking at the water. I’m not moving, and it seems the ship is also stationary, as if the banks would be on move on both sides, the whole thing slowly passing me by. Being born at Christmas means one doesn’t have to deal with the unnecessary time.
? GERLÓCZY Guests’Response WHAT IS A GUEST AT GERLÓCZY LIKE? WE ASKED OUR REGULARS, AND WE KEEP ASKING THREE OF THEM FOR EVERY ISSUE, HOPING THAT WE CAN SOLVE THE MYSTERY OF WHAT MAKES A GERLÓCZY GUEST.
HELENE BIENVENUE
GÁBOR MURAY
ESZTER HUBBES
If you moved abroad, what would you miss the most from Budapest?
I’d miss Budapest nightlife. That’s what suits me best in Europe. It’s buzzing, diverse, alternative, cheap, with quality music, and there’s always something going on. You can bike or walk anywhere. The ruin pubs are really unique, and many new ones open every year.
The spontaneity, the flow, and the stenk. (The latter word I stole from my musician friend Miklós Both, and it means inspiration and momentum. Or something completely different.)
I would miss terribly the streets, the buildings, especially this downtown area where both Gerlóczy and my office are. I’d miss the panoramic Danube, Andrássy Avenue, my favourite shops, cafés and restaurants.
What do you like doing on Sundays?
It’s a funny question, as I find Sundays pretty boring in Hungary. I don’t understand why the markets are not open on this day. At home in France, we go to the market on Sundays to buy the ingredients for the Sunday lunch. But fortunately, there’s the Farmers’ Market at Szimpla which I love. I also like GOUBA and WAMP.
I try to stop time and relive the solemnity Sundays used to have. Sunday is best suited with the silence of forests, spirituality, snowwhite tablecloths, long, intimate lunches that last well into dinner, great wines, candles and exuberance. In short, humanity.
As I’m very busy during the week and I’m always on the go, I like to spend my Sundays in the classic way relaxing at home. I know it’s unusual for women, but I’m a huge football and sports fan, so my Sundays are mostly spent by watching sport programs.
Uhm, difficult question. In my family we don’t really give presents. ;-) Small, unexpected presents are the best.
The Goldstar double cassette deck, in eighth grade. My dear old granny had no idea what the heck that machine by the tree was, and with a happy astonishment in her voice she said ‘It’s a lovely black, my boy!’
I don’t think I could pick just one, since I’ve been give a lot of lovely presents by my family, friends and boyfriend. Perhaps the most memorable Christmases were in my childhood. I loved the usual schedule of the holiday in our family.
I haven’t seen a full-blow Hungarian advent and Christmas yet, but I know that Christmas candy is important. I prefer the really sugary types, perhaps the ones with fudge filling but definitely not the chocolaty ones. French Christmas candy is usually made of fruity dough.
The one with the fudge filling. The artisan one. The one with the nice wrapping.
I have a sweet tooth, so I’m omnivorous when it comes to Christmas candies, but my favourite is the one with marzipan filling.
A true 21st century café with polite and elegant service, delicious coffee, cute terrace, and Wi-Fi! It’s a great interview spot!
The homeliness in homelessness. The colours in the greyness. The most beautiful shades of the seasons in Budapest. A village in the city. Hospitality. The smell of grilled fish. The espresso macchiato. The familiar faces around the tables. When the server ladies gather around my dog Cserge to welcome it. And Uncle Gergô’s engaging harp music.
Gerlóczy means reliable quality I can always count on. Whether I have time only for a quick lunch with my colleagues, or have coffee with my friends after work, or want to impress foreign clients with a nice lunch or dinner, I know I can always come here and Gerlóczy won’t disappoint.
I’m a French journalist, reporter and guidebook writer working in Budapest. I’ve written and refreshed a number of guidebooks about Hungary and Budapest (for Le Petit Futé). I also make documentary films. I’m working on two projects now. One is an interactive documentary about the Do It Yourself culture in Detroit (www.detroitjetaime.com), and the other is the memoir of the extraordinary life of a Hungarian refugee from Budapest to Paris titled Shortages. I can’t say anything more, but it’s an exciting and huge story. And I write a blog: http://planeteregards.wordpress.com.
As the cultural editor of Magyar Nemzet (daily newspaper, eds.) and senior cultural editor of MNO, my goal is the culture remains culture. With my team we try to lead readers to realize that culture is everything. To give you a clear example, it is much more a part of life than pure politics. Culture is the way we live. In addition, I try to focus on creation, and lately, creation for me means classic photography, both thinking about it and shooting.
I am a lawyer, and for me it is not a Monday to Friday, 9 to 6 job but a profession of no regular hours. On one hand it’s important that my clients know I’m available anytime; on the other, most cases don’t end by the end of the working day but prolong for months, even years. Beside the work carried out for my regular clients, the merger with the international network of a Spanish law firm demands my attention now.
A memorable Christmas present you’ve been given.
Which is your favourite Christmas candy (szaloncukor)?
What does Gerlóczy mean to you?
What do you do and what have you been up to lately?
ANASZTÁZIA BOTOS ---->
CELEBRATING HOSPITALITY I imagined a completely different life for myself, until I fell in love with hospitality during a summer job and realized that was my life and nothing else. As soon as I enter the Café, a tingling sensation comes over me and I’m immersed in the particular world of the room straightaway as I look around the tables... There in the corner a new love is unfolding, and beside me girls are whispering eagerly. By another table a family is preparing for a big surprise, there is food, drinks and a cake, only the celebrated one is missing. At the counter I see a man alone who’s spooning the last of his soup. I don’t know if he’s lonely or not, but I can clearly see from his contented face that he was indeed hungry. Upstairs serious businessmen discuss serious issues, but that too ends in smiles and handshakes. November is here, the holidays are fast approaching. Christmas and New Year’s Eve are all coming... the hustle and bustle begins, with shopping, and of course eating and drinking, music and dance. I get back on duty, running around the tables aiming to please everyone and make them forget their everyday worries. Surely, this profession is not for the idle, as there’s always something going on here. You too come to Gerlóczy to enjoy yourself; and that’s the point of hospitality, that’s what we should always keep in mind. Only if we understand this world and enjoy it, we can become partners to our guests. to enjoy themselves. If we fail to realize this and we don’t feel good in this world, we can never be partners to our guests. They say a brilliantly prepared dish can take your blues away. I agree. It requires a special skill to conjure up the harmony of flavours and sight on a plate. I’d be lying if I said life is only about joy and laughter at ours. At the end of a tiring day I find I wish I were one of the guests. Not to mention the holidays. We work even when others are celebrating. Then in the next moment I’m smiling again as I realize we celebrate every single day. Because at ours cakes are baked, pots and pans rattle, meat sizzles, sauces simmer, glasses clink, cutlery tinkle, corks pop, cups clatter, harp strings are strung and kisses are blown every day. What else would you need at a café? So I say raise your glasses, and Happy Holidays to all!
MARCI GERLÓCZY ---->
SANYI, THE SPARROW It’s dawn in the city centre. Sanyi, the sparrow is clinging to a branch over the café’s terrace. He opens his eyes and as he’s about to move he feels a sudden pain below his beak. He’s a bit hungover so he doesn’t really remember what happened, how he got on that tree and where he actually is. He wriggles his wings and it brings it all back to him. Last night he went to a disco on the Danube bank with his mates and the gull beat him up. ’I didn’t even look at his woman’ he thinks to himself and glances at his watch. Sanyi is standing by the puddle, cleaning his wounds. The water is pleasantly cold and clear, so he drinks a little as he’s dehydrated from those seven whiskeys. He sits down on a stone and ponders. ’This won’t do. I need a proper woman, family, kids.’ he thinks about his grandfather, Vilmos, who was the TV star, Vili the sparrow. He immigrated to England for a woman. They laid twenty-seven eggs. Sanyi’s mother hatched from the nineteenth. He’s never known his dad, and his mother died when he was 8. Since then he’s been drinking and partying. He has no job, no goals. Sanyi descends onto the pine tree in the centre of the terrace. He’s watching when the café opens, when they start serving breakfast which he could peck from. He doesn’t need to wait long. As the waiter with scrambled eggs passes him, Sanyi sails down and steals a slice of baguette. Suddenly he hears the swish of wings and a second later a pretty sparrow girl appears. ’What are you doing handsome?’ she asks. ’Eating.’ She snuggles up to Sanyi. ’Do you like doing it on a full stomach?’ ’I’m a little hungover.’ ’I can give you a massage, but that’s extra. I’m Erika.’ ’I don’t have money. Sanyi.’ ’I can do it for free. It is one of those days. There’s something in the air.’ ’All right then.’ ’There’s only one condition.’ ’What is it?’ ’Bring me some of the scrambled eggs the Spaniard is eating.’ Sanyi shakes himself, flies off and steals a piece from the tourist’s eggs. ’What a man’ Erika sighs. ’Do you have a family?’ ’No. How’s the eggs?’ ’Not bad. How about we make some too?’
PHOTO ----> PÉTER FLANEK
IN RETROSPECT: BIRD FEEDER DESIGN COMPETITION The results of the Gerlóczy Bird Feeder Design Competition. The judges (Petra Hoffmann - Stilblog, Éva Tornyánszky - Kultúrgorilla, József Martinkó - Octogon, Zoltán Orbán - MME) had a difficult decision to make. The results were born in the company of a rain of yellow leaves, chestnut macaroons and nice people. And the winners are: I. ‘ TEA POT ’ - Györgyi Cséffai & Dominika Sándor II. ‘ RADIO SET ’ - Lilien Pfiszter III. ‘ HANGER ‘ - Annamária Szentpétery & Anna Baróthy Kultúrgorilla’s special prize went to: - Dávid Kiss ‘ PLATES ‘- (since then we know it’s a winner with titmice!) - Szilvia Palkó ‘ WINTER ICE CREAM ‘ - Mrs Ferenc Dobi ‘ RECYCLED PET BOTTLE ‘ Thanks to all the competitors for the lovely bird feeders. The competition might return next year; but until then, whenever on the terrace of Gerlóczy, look up!
GERLÓCZY’S SUGGESTIONS FOR THE SEASON - Leone beef ham with balsamic figs - Chestnut cream soup with prunes - Clementine sorbet (not for dessert) - Maple syrup glazed venison with pumpkin potato casserole and cranberry reduction
- Salmon steak in its crispy skin, with spinach Tirol sturdel and Chardonnay sauce - Duck leg confit with dried apricot meringue and Blaufrankisch reduction - Apple strudel mousse with walnut crisp
BEJGLI: Available from 8 December with poppy seeds, walnut, chestnut and dried fruits ALSO FOR TAKEAWAY --->
DÓRI ESZE ---->
BÉLA’S CHOICES BÉCI JUHÁSZ WAS BORN IN A WINE REGION. IT WOULD BE NICE TO SAY HE WAS DESTINED TO BECOME A SOMMELIER, BUT HE SAYS HE WASN’T INTERESTED IN WINE BEFORE HE TURNED 18. BY NOW, THOUGH, HE’S MASTERED PROFESSIONAL TASTING. HE ARRIVED TO GERLÓCZY FROM ANTAL KOVÁCS, WHO HE WORKED WITH FOR A YEAR. BESIDES, HE’S A QUALIFIED PASTRY CHEF, BARTENDER AND BARISTA. It is a very complex job from compiling the wine list to walking from table to table. Do you make suggestions out of the blue or do the guests more or less know what they want? I always enquire what kind of wine the guests are after. Hungarian guests usually have preferred wineries, but foreigners are not so well-versed in Hungarian wines. When it’s decided that they’d like a light or complex red or white, I can always recommend dishes to go with the wine. So you have to learn the menu by heart. Definitely. Antal Kovács placed great emphasis on that I study the harmonies thoroughly. Therefore I can always match a dish with a wine. It’s important that the dish and the drink are nicely coordinated. I keep that in mind. Being a sommelier is not exclusively about wine; one has to be familiar with the aromas of tea, beer, and whisky. Many think wine is just a fad, but it is not. Winemaking is an organic production, a natural job based of artisan principles. No chemicals or additives are added to the wine and that’s a great achievement amidst the dominance of mass production. Winemakers are warriors. Christmas wines are already available at Gerlóczy. Yes, for a few weeks we offer a Christmas menu with heavier, spicier, sweeter wines. And with fish and dessert? With everything. We have late harvest Furmint with honey and fruity notes, which, however, is dry and wintery. Noble wines aren’t light either, sugar makes their structure oily. What is the peak of this profession? Is it winemaking? My family used to have a vineyard; I know that world, it’s noble and hard work. When I was little I carried the grapevine, dug the ground and went out to the mud in cold mornings too. I respect winemakers, especially the artisans. Yet, I would like to manage a small hotel in fifteen years’ time. Is there a Cinderella in the wine world? For instance, Turán from Szecskô Winery deserves to be more well-known. This 16.5 % wine from the Eger region beats all the great French wines in quality, for a quarter of the price. Szecskô Winery developed it by cloning various grape varieties. The result is a thick Cabernet Sauvignon or Shyraz, which is both full-bodied and silky at the same time, with rich fruity and flowery aromas. I show it to foreign guests who are very open to Hungarian wineries they’re yet unfamiliar with. Can you suggest wines to go with moods? I haven’t tried that yet, but I think it’s possible. It is a myth, though, that dry red wine is the best there is, and that vintage and grape variety are the deciding factors. It’s more important actually where the grapes come from, how they were cultivated, how much it yielded, how many grape clusters were left on the vines, what king of yeast was used... Prefab bags of wood yeast powder provides a safe alcohol content and aroma, but gives every wine the same flavour. The yeast of artisan wines gives wines a more extraordinary aroma. The importance of vintage and grape variety can only come later. How come dry red wine is not the best there is? Dry red wine is truly a cult figure, but Tokaji Aszú is much harder to make. They cover the trunk and wait for botrytis to develop, then comes the soaking and the maturation in oak barrels. I recommend white wine with food more often than red wine. Eastern flavours go better with slightly sweet wines too. The harmony is only complete when the food and wine literally meet, when a bite is immediately followed by a sip. When the pairing is good, a third flavour is born in our mouth. The texture of the dish should be the deciding factor when choosing a wine. We need to know if it’s steamed, roasted or grilled. Also, we need to take into account the acidity, the alcohol content, the tannins and the quality of the aromas of the wine. It is a very complex profession, but now that I’ve mastered it, I would like to go ahead with it in the future. I’m going to try Gerlóczy’s grilled salmon with lentils. What do you suggest with it? Try the Szecskô Turan. It won’t disappoint.
GERLÓCZY ---->
GERLÓCZY GIFT IDEAS HAVE A NICE SNACK AT GERLÓCZY BEFORE YOU GO CHRISTMAS SHOPPING IN OUR FAVOURITE SHOPS WITHIN A MILE.
Lush Gift Pack Secret Santa - 2 690 Ft LUSH
Crocheted Badge - 3500 Ft Design: Pom-Pom Design Bori Nánai (WAMP)
Lush Gift Pack From The North Pole - 11 490 Ft LUSH Budapest Purse - 1 790 Ft RODODENDRON
Porcelain Tea Pot - 4 500 Ft Cup + Plate - 4 500 Ft PRINTA
Folka Doll - 5 590 Ft RODODENDRON
Rabbit - 4 500 Ft Design: Nyúlgyár PRINTA
Fisheye Baby Camera - 14 990 Ft RODODENDRON
Fridge magnets - 2500 Ft/pcs Design: Anna Holló HOLLÓ MÛHELY
GIFT CARD Christmas? Birthday? Give a Gerlóczy Gift Card. This stylish little card works like a top-up card. You buy it, top it up with a certain amount, and your friends use it to settle their bill in the café.
Blacklist Purse - 8 500 Ft PRINTA
Valid for a year!
Icipici Pet Key Ring - 3 500 Ft RODODENDRON
Lush Gift Pack T’was The NIght before Christmas - 21 990 Ft LUSH
Play Bag - 27 600 Ft RODODENDRON
Absolut Plate - 5 600 Ft RODODENDRON
SHOP LIST: PRINTA - VII. ker Rumbach Sebestyén u. 10. -- +36 70 280 2509 RODODENDRON - 1052 Budapest, Semmelweis u. 19. -- +36 70 419 5329 LUSH - 1052 Kristóf tér 3. (Váci utca) -- +36 70 610 8679 POMPOM DESIGN - Nánai Borbála. -- +06 20 974 9575 HOLLÓ MÛHELY - 1052 Budapest, Vitkovics Mihály u. 12. -- +36 1 317 8103
ZSÓFI SÁMSON - THE EXPERIMENTING TYPE Did you expect to see something surprising at the master class? I encountered a number of new recipes and methods. In Hungarian gastronomy, macaroon is just becoming a standard piece, although gastro blogs have been on the subject for years. They’ve been available at Gerlóczy for years, yet it’s a completely different experience seeing how a French master confectioner prepares them. Does he prepare the queen of desserts differently? The portions were only slightly different, the technology was new. Do you bake much at home? A lot. Just when I got my degree in something else, I realized I wanted to be a pastry chef. Despite the battle with calories? I’ve lost 15 kilos since I became a pastry chef. Apparently, professionals crave sweet things less. The question is whether having a sweet tooth is a professional requirement. The answer is tasting is a must, but you don’t have to wolf down a whole pastry or cake. What’s the most difficult pastry to make? Everything can be done, it’s only a question of time. Sometimes what appears simple is more complex than a multilayered cake. Take the Opera slice for instance. It’s not too difficult, but the coffee beans need to rest for a night, then it’s enriched by a certain amount of cream, then it rests again for a day. So when I make Opera slice, I start it three days before the actual preparation. Your family must be really happy that you provide for them on birthdays and holidays. They are. They can’t wait for me to show them something new. When I bake something at Gerlóczy I have to make it at home the same week too. Are you the experimenting type? Absolutely. I prefer the French way to traditional fluffy creamy cakes. My world of flavours consists of a little cream and ground seeds instead of flour as the binding agent. Your personal favourite? The Gerbaud cake and the Linzer torte. Always. So I guess I’m pro jam. At Gerlóczy we used strawberry jam with balsamic vinegar; the two flavours are a perfect match. I often go to restaurants and confectioners, learning their tricks of presentation, and trying to figure out the ingredients of their pastry, and how they’ve achieved certain flavours. Can you figure out a recipe by taste only? I can’t guess how much it consists of what ingredients, but I notice if it’s been made with white chocolate, orange, or caramel. So I can sense the basic flavours, and then I try to develop them. I more or less feel the secret recipes, but there’s always an ingredient one cannot guess.
FROM MADRID WITH LOVE
GERLÓCZY, ONE OF THE 15 BEST HOTELS IN THE WORLD
In November, our own ‘Smurfette’, forever smiling Rita Sápi was searching for the perfect café in Madrid. She’s obviously biased when she claims she didn’t find anything better than the Gerlóczy croissant in the Spanish capital. And we are happy to believe her, and ask for yet another fresh croissant with butter.
According to the Australian Travel & Living Magazine Gerlóczy Rooms deLux is one of the 15 most amazing city hotels in the world.
TAMÁS T.NAGY ---->
A BLONDE AT GERLÓCZY THE BLONDE AND HER PARTNER ARRIVED BY THE EVENING FLIGHT, WITH THE MAIN GUEST HIDING AT THE BOTTOM OF THE SUITCASE. THE AIRPORT DOGS COULDN’T SNIFF HER OUT, SHE MANAGED TO AVOID THE CUSTOMS OFFICERS, AND SHE PASSED ALL THE CHECKPOINTS WITHOUT MUCH ADO. THE TAXI TURNED TO GERLÓCZY A LITTLE BEFORE MIDNIGHT. THE BLONDE CHECKED IN UNDER THE NAME DULCEY. The next day her partner Christophe, after the morning coffee and croissant, picked up the blonde and they left to introduce themselves to the audience at the end of the day. In the tiny workshop Christophe melts the blonde at 40 °C, and adds glucose. Meanwhile, he boils milk in a pot and dissolves hydrated gelatin in it. He gradually pours the latter onto the melted Dulcey, so a shiny, smooth and elastic texture begins to form. He unites it all with cream. He puts it in the fridge, and we wait for the miracle to happen. While waiting, I ask him about the blonde. If I‘d failed to mention before, Christophe Domange is a modest-looking pastry chef, and as he always says, he started in a kitchen not in the confectionery industry. He goes to work in the morning just like everybody else, to places like the Buerehiesel in Strasbourg, the Pic in Valence and El Bulli in Roses. For six years now he’s been creating and teaching in Valrhona’s school and travelling the world doing what he has to do with an unlimited passion. I ask him about his next goal. He says he would like to win the best worker in France title (M.O.F. Meilleur Ouvrier de France). After a number of Michelin stars and other achievments –while we’re waiting for Dulcey to crystallize – the man is thinkig of what else he could to be named the best worker. With a hint of irony I say ’I keep my fingers crossed for you. And for myself so that the coconut balls roll out of confectioneries’ window displays here’. He doesn’t understand much of this of course. It’s only us who know what life is like on the other side of the coconut balls. In a festive mood on 23 October. ’Well, let’s not get started on that. Instead, tell me who bleached out Dulcey?’ ’As a matter of fact she wasn’t bleached out but had some colour added to her’ he remarks. ’The person sould have tempered white chocolate, didn’t set the right temperature. Everything baked into the container. Everyone rushed up to see what to do with the blonde caramel-looking stuff ...’ Let’s call the rest a sensory test. It underwent tasting. In this field, everything must be tasted, whether one likes it or not. The health officer looks for the stale, the chocolate maker searches for the essential. And behold, the result was in their mouths. The perpetrator escaped punishment, guilt transformed into triumph, and after two years of hard work the error became perfection, opening a new chapter in the literature of chocolate. After white, milk and dark, the blonde chocolate was born and was christened Dulcey. And now she’s hiding in our glass disguised as panna cotta, with mango-banana chutney at the bottom and crispy streuzel on top. So she’s still here at Gerlóczy, and staying for a while. She’s so pretty!
SNACK MENUS FOR TWO ANA'S SWEET SNACKS - 2,600 Ft Raisin Brioche, Mini Vanilla Bundt Cake, Pistachio Milk Loaf, Macaroon, Chocolate Madeleine, Butter, Apricot jam - Coffee or Tea
SNACK 4 PM - 6 PM
ANA'S SALTY SNACKS - 2,600 Ft House Pâté, Aubergine Paste with Olives, Salmon Rillettes, Freshly baked Baguette - Coffee or Tea
GERLÓCZYRecommends: NEW PREMIUM TEAS AT GERLÓCZY THIS WINTER: TRUFFEL TEA Shortbread, almond, pistachio, coriander and sweet pepper in a cup.
ITALIAN LANGUAGE COURSE - Lesson 1.
PANINI IN GERLÓCZY Panino [pa’ni:no] meaning: sandwich that is not made from sliced bread but from a small loaf or roll - ciabatta, rosetta or baguette (when sliced bread is used, the sandwich is called tramezzino or porzo) Panini [pa’ni:ni] plural, but in different languages (e.g. paninis in English, paninik in Hungarian) the mark of plural form is added (incorrectly) Panoteca - sandwich bar Paninaro - Italian hipsters in the ’80s who frequented sandwich bars similar to ’Al Panino’ in Milan. Their attributes were Timberland boots, Ray Ban sunglasses and something by Armani. Pet Shop Boys dedicated a song to them on their Disco & Alternative album titled ’Paninaro’.
PANINI HAS ALREADY CONQUERED THE WORLD. Gerlóczy menu features : - Italian (mozzarella, basil, prosciutto) - Greek (feta cheese, olives, tomato) - French (goat cheese, green apple, red onion, bacon) - Norwegian (Salmon, capers, Horseradish, Fresh cheese, Tomato) - American (Roast beef, Cheddar, Santa Maria sauce, Cucumber, Tomato)
MUSIK, MUSIKK, MUSIQUE In the Katona József Theater - Directed by Réka Pelsôczy 14 December, Friday 7 p.m. and 31 December, Monday 5 p.m. and 9 p.m. We could think making musical theatre is easy, but is not easy at all. (...) The creators of the performance know it perfectly: an absolute precision characterizes all the numbers in which they sing, dance or do circus tricks. It is an elegant composition, in which the sound and the visual parts are equally important components. (...) We see six strong actors on stage, who play numberless characters. (...) It is good to see that everybody in the performance takes seriously whatever they do. It is good to feel that the production has no intention of explaining itself or commenting on itself, and it does not want to be ironic, it just simply speaks about freedom. András Sztrókay, szinhaz.net
1,400 Ft 1,400 Ft 1,400 Ft 1,400 Ft 1,800 Ft
Storiesfromthebarcabinet MACKINLAY’S ON THE ROCKS THE TRUE STORY OF A FORGOTTEN WHISKY There are stories that tend to disappear like a stream, and as we start to believe they are drowned in the darkness of the past they come up again out of nowhere and after a while they come to a conclusion. The ’Mackinlay’s story’ is undoubtedly one such story. When in 1909 the British Antarctic Expedition was forced to leave behind in the ice the three cases of whisky which they brought with them, everybody was rightfully thinking that the shared history of MacKinlay's and the expedition came to an end. However, nearly one hundred years later, it picked up again. So let's see the story. The nectar of Glen Mhor distillery was considered a classic Highland malt at the turn of the century. Thus it’s not surprising that explorer Ernest Shackleton took 25 cases of 10-year old, uniquely labelled Mackinlay’s Rare Old Highland Malt bottles to his Antarctic expedition. The Nimrod Expedition set sail in August 1907, and via New Zealand, it reached the shores of Antarctica on 28 January, 1908. They set up a base camp at Cape Royds. In addition to research work, Shackleton’s goal was to reach the South Pole. Although they were very close to their target –a mere 100 miles (seems both to be too close and too far) – the lack of food and harsh weather forced them to turn back. Subsequently, the expedition's ship had to return to Britain and pass the glory of conquering the South Pole to Amundsen. The story doesn’t end there, though. In 2007, members of a New Zealand team found the whisky crates, and a couple of years later, they excavated them. The crates were transported frozen and then thawed during a long and meticulous process. So the Canterbury Museum received a unique, well over 100 years old whisky that Richard Paterson, the master blender at Whyte & Mackay described as 'a gift from heaven'. He came up with the idea of reviving the long out of production nectar that tells about the style of whisky of old. Due to an arrangement with the New Zealand museum, three of the bottles were flown back to Scotland to recreate this forgotten drink. Lead by Richard Paterson, a team tried to recreate Mackinlay’s 100-year-old malt through several tastings and scientific analysis. The team also established the strength of the whisky at 47.3%, the fact that Orkney peat was used in the malting, and that the spirit had been matured in American white oak sherry casks. In order for us to enjoy the original flavours, Malts from the closed Glen Mhor and Dalmore distilleries were combined with others from Speyside and beyond. The result of that time consuming and meticulous recreation process is a malt with a soft, elegant and refined aroma. That’s where Mackinlay’s long adventures come to an end, as well as come to life again after decades of slumber... just like in a fairy tale. www.whiskynet.hu
OYSTER SEASON KICKOFF! Take your pick of the freshest specimens in Gerlóczy while the season lasts. HALF A DOZEN: 4,500 Ft
JAMES B
OND DR INKS ALSO MA CKINLAY ’S IN SKYF ALL
GERLÓCZY:Café with rooms There are many exciting people staying in Gerlóczy from all over the world. Who are they? In each issue, we introduce one of them.. DÓRA ESZE ---->
MR HARDY
ANDRÉ HARDY ---->
FRENCH DAIRY COMPANY, LACTILIS IS PRESENT IN 150 COUNTRIES. GENERAL MANAGER OF THE REGIONS OF EASTERN EUROPE AND SOUTH AMERICA, ANDRÉ HARDY TRAVELS AROUND THE WORLD. HE FOUND GERLÓCZY ROOMS DE LUX RIGHT AT THE BEGINNING, AND HAS BEEN A REGULAR EVER SINCE. MR HARDY STAYS IN ROOM 3/2 MOST OF THE TIME, AND WE TRIED TO FIND OUT WHY. Kammermayer Károly square is often compared to Paris. Do you agree? I do. With the statue and trees it does remind me of the smaller squares in Paris. What do you think of Hungarian cuisine? I think it is the best cuisine in Central Europe. And the wines are also of a high quality. When abroad, are you interested in the differences or similarities with your usual surroundings? I think both are equally important and interesting. Have you found a Hungarian wine you especially like? Almost every label from the Villány region. At Gerlóczy, you usually stay at room 3/2. Yes, that room oozes last century charm while featuring all the mod cons. What would you recommend Gerlóczy to your friends for? For its prime location in the city, right in the centre. For its excellent restaurant. For the personalized attention and kindness one meets here. For its charm.
ARE YOU R FOREIG N BUSINES S PARTN E R S COMING TO TOWN ? Sleep th em in Ge rlóczy! Reserva ti +36 80 1 on at toll free 02 600 number.
The rooms cost 90 euro/night/for 2 + 12 euro/breakfast/person or try our new attic rooms on an introductory price at 75 euro/night+ 12 euro/breakfast/person Gerlóczy Rooms deLux above Gerlóczy Café: 1052 Budapest, Gerlóczy u. 1. IMPRESSUM: Contributors: Tibor Babiczky, Tamás T. Nagy, Anasztázia Botos, Marci Gerlóczy, Regina Bruckner, Dóra Esze, Eszter Szegô English Editor: Aranka Szabó Design/photo: Péter Flanek Printed by: Intruder --- e-mail: marketing@gerloczy.hu Published in 1500 copies by Gerlóczy Kávéház Ltd., 1052 Budapest, Gerlóczy utca 1. Open: all days 7am - 11pm