THE GERLÓCZY CAFÉ PAPER
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THE CRAB FISHERMAN – OUR EMPLOYEES’ SECRET LIVES - BLONDE BOMBSHELL - GERLÓCZY TEATIME 4-6
TAMÁS T.NAGY ---->
THE CRAB FISHERMAN TAMÁS THE BUTCHER IS ONE OF THE LANDMARKS IN VÁROSHÁZ STREET. HE’S KEPT ALIVE THE TRADITIONS OF HUNGARIAN STREET FOOD FOR OVER TWENTY YEARS. PEOPLE WEARING TIES GO TO HIS SHOP TO EAT FRIED SAUSAGE AND BLOOD SAUSAGE, OTHERS GO TO SEARCH FOR THEIR ROOTS. Last time I enquired about his apprentice whom I hadn’t seen for a while. Tamás said I should find him on the Bering Sea. The apprentice of the downtown butcher went off and became a crab fisherman. Fried sausage goes well with pickles and jokes. But when I heard the story I realized it was way more than just another one of the funny Pest anecdotes. Gutsy Hungarians don’t think twice before going to places no sane people would ever go. And those who follow are just as insane as the person they follow. I wouldn’t be surprised if I only met familiar faces on a ship. The housemaid from housekeeping or the chef from Pilvax Café. But I shouldn’t look for barbers from Pest on board, for on the crab fishing boat in the icy waters everyone lets their hair grow out. I’ve only seen crab fishermen on TV before, and as for fishing, I’ve only ventured up to the bow of my bow on the Danube. But now things have taken a new turn, and I’m already excited. If I feel like it, I can head to the Bering Sea. I might make it there... I don’t hesitate. I learn everything there is to know about king crabs, and by the time I set sail I’ll be as up-to-date as an encyclopaedia. “The king crab has only three pairs of walking legs and one pair of scissors, as opposed to other crabs that have four pairs of walking legs and one pair of scissors. We differentiate between king crabs by their scissors. Three king crab species have smaller “feeder” scissors and a larger “killer” pair of scissors to eliminate their prey. Red king crabs can be very large, sometimes reaching a leg span of 2-2.5 metres and weigh 5 kilos, but the average red king crab has a leg span of 90-120 centimetre and weighs 2.5 - 4.5 kilos. The 3S strategy (sex, size, season) is the main principle of crab fishing. Only the fishing of male specimen with at least a 132 millimetre-long shell is allowed from September to February.” The season is over, so I can improve my knowledge only by the fish counter or on my plate. I’ve never tried to establish the gender of a spider, or, to be honest, have looked under the legs of a king crab. I have chased a rooster with a murderous intent. I have seen a pig running around with an axe in its head. But I’ve never thought to learn about the sex life of crabs. I thought I might ask the fish chef of Gerlóczy. He knows the sea, has seen crabs before. Although he hasn’t yet been a gynaecologist or a urologist, he sunbathes the crabs on the grill every day. I never bother people directly with my problems, so before I pose them I order something from the smoky grill. Smoke in Gerlóczy is sometimes bigger than the fish on my plate, and when it’s choking it’s a sign that the fish chef is enjoying his day off. I think if gas and electricity were turned off in Pest, the majority of chefs would die of smoke inhalation before their time. I always say that sushi would be less of a hassle. The burden of preparation has already worn me down, so I put aside my lust for adventure. I’ve changed my mind. I’d rather create jobs than go crab fishing. I eat fish and seafood for everyone’s benefit. The survivors of the Bering Sea will be rich, the Markos of the world will have something to put on the grill, and I’ll be healthier. And if there’s wine, I’ll be happier, too. When I get bored of crab, I’ll eat liver. Fat duck liver. To soothe my conscience, I’ll sometimes have it with lobster and crab. There’s nothing sinful in that. Those who’ve done it know that duck liver goes with anything, even king crab.
Illustration: Péter Flanek
That should console the crab fishermen at the end of the season. Until then, good fortune may watch over them on the wild waters.
? GERLÓCZY Guests’Response WHAT IS A GUEST AT GERLÓCZY LIKE? WE ASKED OUR REGULARS, AND WE KEEP ASKING THREE OF THEM FOR EVERY ISSUE, HOPING THAT WE CAN SOLVE THE MYSTERY OF WHAT MAKES A GERLÓCZY GUEST
JULO UGRIN
ORSOLYA EGRI
TAMÁS BENCE
Both. I live in Pest and work in Buda.
1.Budapest! What a question! Who do you prefer, your mum or dad? Belgrád Embankment and Bem Embankment! Raoul Wallenberg Street and Lövôház Street! Sion Steps and Wekerle Estate. Kós Károly Walk. Hajadon Street and Balta Close beside it.
1. Pest.
2. - What will you surely eat in May?
In spring I make sure to eat lots of vegetables, lettuce, fresh radish, and tomatoes that taste like tomatoes, with delish meat and fish. And dark chocolate in shape or form.
2. My mother’s cooking that I love. If I could I would have lunch at home every day in May. Asparagus soup, asparagus with béchamel, or plain with Hollandaise sauce. And fresh strawberries in the morning, at noon, and in the evening.
2. Panna cotta in Gerlóczy.
3. - How do you get around Budapest?
In wintertime, I usually use overground BKV (Budapest Public Transport) services, especially trams. Now that tram no. 2 is back in service, it’s quite refreshing to rattle along the Danube in the morning. With spring comes the time for cycling, as soon as I fixed the wheels. It’s probably the best means of transportation in the city centre, except for the angry drivers who are still upset about us gaining space. If I go farther away, I still get behind the wheel.
3. By a red bicycle and yellow tram. On foot in spotted or striped tights.
3. By public transport and by car.
1. - Pest or Buda?
4. - Your worst habit.
Jameson, with one ice cube.
5. - Your favourite street/square in Budapest.
Can I only pick one? I have plenty: Böszörményi Street, Pozsonyi Street, Fehér hajó Street, Falk Miksa Street. But I’ll never forget that I used to play around in the Szomori Dezs ô Square fountain when I was a little girl. I love this city!
6. - What do you do and what have you been up to lately?
The fast-spinning wheel of filmmaking caught me many years ago, and hasn’t released me since. I mainly work on documentaries, but some features are also on the cards. We’ve just finished ‘Stream of Love’ with Ági Sós, and we’re making ‘Zene Felemel’ (Music Lifts You Up) with Tamás Almási, ‘Gyermekvasút’ (Children’s Railway) with Klára Trencsényi, ‘Meleg Férfiak, Hideg Diktatúrák’ (Gay Men in Cold Dictatorships) with Mari Takács..., the list could go on. And the rest remains to be seen by the dear readers/audience.
4. My niece, Miss Lola. She makes me do all kinds of silly things. 5. Kosztolányi Dezsô Square has it all: Feneketlen tó (Bottomless Lake) and the surrounding park, and the sweet little streets: Edömér, chieftain Tas, Fadrusz. The statues, with everyone’s childhood favourite in the park, the Bear, Béla Bartók with the bells, whose arms could carry two kids, the bust of Dezsô Kosztolányi, and the painful reminder of Géza Ottlik... And Tranzit Café is just a stone throw away at the late coach station. 6. I’ve been the manager of Tranzit Café for 10 years. I’m preparing for the anniversary, and, on the other hand, I’m organizing popular events, such as the summer open-air cinema, monthly exhibitions, book launches and readings, literary-psychological productions and discussions in cooperation with Magadért alapítvány (Yourself Foundation), and for the exhibiting artists an opportunity to get introduced abroad. .
4. Good quality coffee, which is not really a bad habit. 5. Szabadság Square and Pozsonyi Street.
6. I’m busy with the Vespresso mobile café project. Together with the owner of the other such magical vehicle we want good coffee to be available even on the street. We can take our vehicle to events, festivals, film shoots, and weddings. You can find me this spring and summer next to the Dohány Street Synagogue, on the corner of Wesselényi Street.
OUR EMPLOYEES’ SECRET LIVES /// SECOND PART
>> ZSÓFI SÁMSON - pastry chef, at the Valhrona pastry chef workshop
>> CSABA BARANYAI - Maitre’d, the diplomat
the numismatist
>> ZSOLT GRIVANT - head waiter waiting for the catch
in the Alps on the field
LET’S BUBI TO GERLÓCZY! You won’t have to worry about parking anymore, you can visit us by Bubi (Budapest Bike). There’s a Bubi docking station right next to Gerlóczy, yay!
Find all Bubi docking stations at http://www.bkk.hu/bubi/terkep/
BOOK AND READ Has it ever happened to you that you didn’t take a book when you went abroad, or that you finished your book too soon? It’s not a nice thing to happen, is it? Guests at Gerlóczy can take their pick from a mini English-language library during their stay. Shakespeare, Rushdie, Murakami, Huxley, Brontë, Yann Martell, and many more are waiting for you to book your room at Gerlóczy.
Try any of our delicious desserts +a cup of real Yemaya tea or Kimbo coffee for 1500 Ft.
GERLÓCZY TEATIME 4-6 Andrea Reisz is a cosmopolitan from the house across the square, where Robert Capa was born. She’s always on the go, but she makes time for a cup of extraordinary tea and her favourite pistachio tarte. Is it possible that afternoon tea is the secret? Let’s find out. Order a cup of Yemaya mood tea, let’s say the one named Forever Young, and your favourite cake and become a Femme Fatale and radiantly charming at the same time!
THE DEVIL’S IN THE DETAILS Tomas Opitz photographer and Gerlóczy regular has captured the minutest details of Gerlóczy. The first six photos of the series printed on watercolour paper can be taken away to remind you of your stay and Gerlóczy and the lazy mornings under the elm tree. The series will continue, for the devil’s in the details! Visit Tomas and his wife, Bea Puskás’s TOBE Gallery, to see his other works and current exhibitions.
THE SEA ON FIRE
Open: E
very day from 6 p.m . Closed on Monday. On Friday and Satu rday from noo n.
GERLÓCZY FISH TERRACE SOLE
(Solea) The best tasting flatfish got its name from a sandal.
It belongs to the family of flatfish. Due to its shape, its name in English and French originates from the Latin solea for sandal. In other languages, it is named for the tongue, e.g. Seezunge in German, sogliola in Italian, lenguado in Spanish, dil in Turkish, and nyelvhal in Hungarian. Sole is found in the Baltic Sea and the Mediterranean Sea. It’s skinned before steaming. After steaming, its backbone can be easily removed in one piece.
SQUID (Loligo Vulgaris) The most vulgar ink. Lives in warm waters. Two of its ten tentacles are especially long. Its body, tentacles and ink sac are all edible. In English-speaking countries, squid as food is often marketed using the Italian word calamari. Squid are found abundantly in certain areas, whereas crabs prefer solitude. Squid dishes are usually black, and squid ink is used in black risotto and black Italian pasta.
TIGER PRAWN (Penaeus monodon) A prawn family where the women wear the pants. Tiger prawn of the prawn family is the second most popular prawn species in the world’s restaurants. Females can reach 25–30 cm long and weigh 200–320 grams. Males are slightly smaller and 20-25 cm and 100-170 grams. Its natural distribution is the Indo-Pacific, ranging from the eastern coast of Africa and the Arabian Peninsula, as far as Southeast Asia, the Sea of Japan, and northern Australia.
MACKEREL (Scomber scombrus) The fish that fasts in winter. It also occurs in the North Sea, in the western part of the Baltic Sea, and the Black Sea as well. The swift swimming mackerel lives in the open water, and forms large schools near the surface. During the winter months it descends to deeper waters and ceases feeding. It feeds on smaller fish and prawns. It’s excellent for frying, smoking, and grilling. It can be cooked in white wine, or be enjoyed raw with lemon juice.
SPINY KING CRAB (Paralithodes californiensis) Rough from the outside, soft from the inside.
Photo: Péter Flanek, László Balkányi
King crabs live a solitary life in the cold seas. Because of their large size and the taste of their meat, many species are widely caught and sold as food, the most common being the red king crab, which gives 90 percent of all king crab fishing. They weigh 2-8 kilos. Before consumption, watching a tutorial video is highly recommended.
GERLÓCZYRecommends: WHEN A FRENCH, A HUNGARIAN, AND AN ITALIAN MEET ON A PLATE. ROSÉ DUCK BREAST WITH GOOSE FOIE GRAS MOUSSE RAVIOLI To go with the tender French Rougie duck breast we prepare home-made ravioli in keeping with the Italian tradition, which we stuff with a mousse made from Hungarian goose foie gras. The latter has already proved itself, it doesn’t need further introduction. With a glass of Konyári rosé, it’s a perfect dish for summer evenings.
THE MOST EXPENSIVE HUNGARIAN AT LUMÚ Ludwig Museum –Museum of Contemporary Art is hosting an exhibition of the works of Simon Hantai, the most expensive painter of Hungarian origin currently on the international art market. The first ever Hantai retrospective exhibition showcases almost 60 huge pieces. As a major artist of abstract painting, Hantai represented France, his chosen country, at the Venice Biennale in 1982. Signalling the importance of his oeuvre, Hantai´s works are on display in the most prestigious collections all over the world. However, a large-scale retrospective exhibition, attracting more than 200,000 visitors, in the Centre Pompidou in Paris was only organized posthumously, in the spring of 2013. Ludwig Museum is privileged to organize Simon Hantai´s solo exhibition in collaboration with the artist´s family as co-curators, thus also showcasing twelve never before seen pieces.
EAT ON ART During the Simon Hantai exhibition at Ludwig Museum, his artwork will be on display on our tablecloths as well.
Until 17 August, 2014. Aperol Spritz goes well with Hantai.
ELDERBERRY AND LAVENDER CIDER AT GERLÓCZY Ervin Tamás and family had experimented for two years on their Csopak estate (Tamás Cellar) before they developed the perfect lavender and elderberry cider. We recommend this refreshing alcoholic beverage (vol. 4.5%) to lovers of sparkling wine who also like even lighter drinks with extraordinary aromas. The lavender and elderberry cider is an essential ingredient of summer nights on Kamermayer Square...
BLONDE BOMBSHELL DULCEY TARTE Dulcey, the blonde chocolate needs no introduction. Now you can experience what it tastes like when the whipped and unwhipped versions of Dulcey and cream meet. All that paired with strawberry and basil confit. It will surely be a Summer favourite.
Jelly with gold dust Chocolate mousse with cream Dulcey chocolate cream Strawberry and basil confit
Linzer pastry
SPEND WITH US! ANNYWERSARY, CLASS REUNION, WEDDING DINNER, BIRTHDAY, PRESS CONFERENCE... Contact our restaurant manager András Kákonyi at: rendezveny @gerloczy.hu
A REGULAR WITH MERMAID TAIL Old Gerlóczy regulars play cameos on the cover of our May issue. Beautiful Juli Szilbek and her charming partner, Zoli Belényi know Gerlóczy well, they’ve already celebrated two anniversaries in our balcony room
ZSÓFI BITTÓ - Tour Guide ---->
THE SECRETS OF BUDAPEST III. KÁROLYI GARDEN A couple of weeks ago the city changed tangibly. Chairs appeared outside cafés, and some people even sit in the grass with a bottle of wine. Fortunately, there are more and more places where people can have a chat, read, daydream, and sunbathe. One of the old, rare treasures is Károlyi Garden, beloved by locals, students, and children. It hasn’t always been this popular; until the early 20th century it was a private garden belonging to the Károlyi Palace. It hosted balls, for example the one to honour the wife of Palatine Joseph lit by hundreds of candles, and Reform Age parties. Legend has it the garden was King Matthias’s hunting ground. Even Maria Therese might have walked in the garden when she stayed in the palace before the Károlyis’ time. Later, in a sadder period, Haynau had his military practice here at sunrise. Young Frigyes Podmaniczky could marvel at the mulberry tree from the window of his childhood home. It occurred to Mihály Károlyi once to get rid of the garden and the palace (he needed the cash to settle his gambling debts). Fortunately, his wife, Katinka didn’t agree to the sale. After World War I it was confiscated and opened to the public. It’s one of the best maintained public parks with separate areas for the playground, for the dog park and the garden. It used to have a kitchen garden and a greenhouse with award-winning plants, thanks to attentive gardeners. The garden has been the location of many a film shoot. In World War II drama “Good,” it plays a Berlin park where Viggo Mortensen’s character argues with his friend. It’s worth taking it slow for a few minutes, half an hour, to enjoy nature enclosed in the middle of the city.
Fancy hearing more interesting stories about the city? Join a „Fabulous Budapest” tour! Visit the front desk for details.
Storiesfromthebarcabinet SMOKEY FRIENDS SMOKING AS A PRESERVATION METHOD AND AS A FLAVOURING IS KNOWN ALL AROUND THE WORLD. WHEN IT’S MENTIONED WITH REGARDS TO WHISKY, MANY WILL SHOUT OUT LOUD ‘I KNOW, I KNOW. THE CASK GIVES THE SMOKY FLAVOUR, FOR THE INSIDE OF THE CASKS HAVE BEEN CHARRED.’ Although heavily charred casks can transfer a slightly smoky flavour to the whisky, the smokiness of the drink is due to peat exclusively. The wetlands with accumulated decayed vegetation or organic matter are unsuited for agricultural use, but are an ideal source of fuel. Over time, the formation of peat is often the first step in the geological formation of other fossil fuels such as coal. Peat contains centuries, or even millennia-old layers, so peat harvests might reveal such interesting finds as tools from the Bronze Age. Beside clean water peat is available in large quantities in Scotland, so it’s not surprising that with the decrease of coal peat is used to dry soaked barley (malt). The smokiness of the whisky depends on the duration of peating and the quantity of peated barley in the distillate. The phenol level of widely available whiskies ranges from 35 to 55 ppm (parts per million), while the current smokiest whisky in the world has 169 ppm. That’s how the smoky whisky, loved by many and despised by some, is produced. Its richness can be likened to a number of things, such as oil, tar, soot, ember, iodine, remedy, moor, moss, wetland, and smoked fish/ham. Although smoky whisky is usually drunk in itself as a digestive, it pairs with food excellently. Try it with aromatic cheeses or fishes, salmon, or trout. In Gerlóczy, pair your grilled seafood (mackerel, tiger prawn, squid, etc.) with a good peated malt, such as the creamy sweet smoke bomb, the Ardberg! Don’t miss out on the Japanese whisky with the magical fish, Yoichi with mullet, or the slightly smoky, yet, due to the seaside aging, seaweed and fishy aromas of Old Pulteney. www.whiskynet.hu
THE WINE OF THIS SUMMER AT GERLÓCZY: Fancy-free summer nights require the sea and a little rosé. All you have to do is to relax and we take care of the rest.
Etyeki Kúria Prime Rosé, 2013 - Etyek Salmon-coloured, bright pinot-rosé full of fruits, raspberry, strawberry, fermented in steel container and bottled fresh without added carbon dioxide.
GERLÓCZY:Café with rooms There are many exciting people staying in Gerlóczy from all over the world. Who are they? In each issue, we introduce one of them...
THE PROFESSIONAL WE’RE SITTING IN THE ELM SNOWFALL ON THE TERRACE OF GERLÓCZY WITH GUARDIAN JOURNALIST JOHN BRUNTON AND HIS WIFE MARIE. HE’S COVERING BUDAPEST FOR THE PAPER. IT WAS TEN YEARS AGO WHEN HE LAST WROTE ABOUT THEN PRE-TEEN GERLÓCZY CAFÉ. THIS TIME THEY TOOK A LOOK AT THE ROOMS, TOO. ABOUT THEMSELVES THEY ONLY SAY THAT THEY ARE LAID BACK, THEY DON’T BELIEVE IN NETWORKING BUT IN SPONTANEITY. You have a dream job. How did it begin? It began with me leaving Europe and its formalities behind. In Europe, people think that journalism can be learnt in a traditional school environment. I upped and left for Malaysia. When I got there I was untrained in journalism and photography. Five years later I returned to Europe to write for the biggest British papers. You recently published the Top 40 destinations in 2014 in the Guardian. The list is very varied with places ranging from Macedonia to Yunnan Region in China. Which one is your personal favourite? Phenang Island in Malaysia. You first visited Budapest about ten years ago. What was your first impression of the Budapest of today? I found the city just as impressive as ten years ago. You have three homes in Paris, London and Venice. Where would you choose to be the fourth? Actually, I do have four. The fourth is in Kuala Lumpur where I lived for five years and I often go back. The fifth would be either Istanbul or Barcelona. Based on your writings and tattoo you appear to be a wine lover. I started out with writing travel pieces, then I took on gastro subjects, and I’ve been focusing on wines recently. My approach to all three is that of keen curiosity rather than expertise. That’s why I was a little frightened when I was invited to be one of the 100 judges at Vinitaly, one of the most prestigious wine competitions in the world. I pictured myself thrown amidst all those wine experts. That’s when I decided to have a tattoo on my hand just to give them a little fright myself. Then my tattoo lent the title of my new blog: www.thewinetattoo.com. Do you have a favourite Hungarian wine? I liked Hungarian wines even ten years ago, and now I like them even more. Furmint and pinot noir are my favourites. What places do you like in the city? I like the new Borkonyha, Bors Gasztrobár, Café Kör, which is an excellent place even after ten years, and Léhûtô, where you can test the new Budapest fad, craft beers. The Széchenyi Bath has been splendidly revamped, whereas the Gellért Bath was disappointing. The Central Market’s become too touristy, but there’s a great market in Szófia Street near Oktogon. What makes a good place in your opinion? As for pubs and cafés, it’s the people who work there first and foremost. Then come the décor and music. As for restaurants, fresh ingredients and seasonality are prime concerns. It’s important that chefs reinterpret traditional Hungarian cuisine heritage. You travel a lot. What do you do when you’re at home? We like having friends around. We returned from Budapest with huge spoils, we took smoked beef tounge, duck liver and pickles to Paris. Marie (John’s French wife) cooked dinner for 20 of our friends. It’s a shame we didn’t have Hungarian wines to go with the dinner.
The rooms rates are:
ARE Y OUR F OREIG BUSIN N ESS PA RTNER COMIN S G T O TOWN Sleep ? them in Ger lóczy! Reser +36 8 vation at 0 102 toll fre 600 e num ber.
WITH FREE WIFI AND FREE IN ROOM MINIBAR WITH DAILY REFILL!
standard room for two: 95 euro/room/night+ 12 for Breakfast /each Attic room for two: 80 euro/room/night+ 12 for Breakfast /each Balcony room: 95 euro/room/night+ 12 for Breakfast /each + 15 euro balcony charge Address: Gerlóczy Rooms deLux 1052 Budapest, Gerlóczy u. 1 - above Gerlóczy Café IMPRESSUM: Contributors: Regina Bruckner, Eszter Szegô, Tamás T. Nagy, Zsófi Bittó English Editor: Aranka Szabó Design/Photo: Péter Flanek , Ervin Tamás, László Balkányi Printed by: Intruder --- e-mail: marketing@gerloczy.hu Published in 1500 copies by Gerlóczy Kávéház Kft., 1052 Budapest, Gerlóczy utca 1. --- Open: all days 7am - 11pm