RENASCENCE magazine Issue No.2 / Designer Africa / Spring Summer 2015 Kwesi Ansah / Keagan Troskie / Kwen Akomaye Babatunde Oyeyemi / Brian Ndienze / Ian Audifferen
contents Editor’s Note Editor’s Choice opinion... Jermaine M. Charles opinion... Aviwe Phika grooming... Hold & Protect profile... Kwesi Ansah profile... Keagan Troskie profile... Kwen Akomaye theinterview... Babatunde Oyeyemi theinterview... Brian Ndienze theinterview... Ian Audifferen 7 Must-Have Bags Urban Chase Knock Out 7 Shades of Lit Stockists Last Word / #Throwback
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masthead\\contributors MONDE MTSI editor-in-chief LARRY ENGLISH - contributor contributor - LUXOLO POYO JERMAINE M. CHARLES - contributor contributor - AVIWE PHIKA
Questions, comments, and contribution enquiries can be forwarded to renaissancemensa@gmail.com
editor’s note Wow. Another quarter of months has passed. To think, I did not think the year would move this fast nor that we’d have another issue to publish by the end of the year. Working with a small team of contributors can be extremely challenging and highly rewarding at the same time. Between our personal lives, other jobs and general distractions from life - we have managed to put together a small bite of content for you. Focusing on designers, we look at three African designers who are making waves in their own rights in their respective regions. We profile three model faces to watch out for in 2016 and we return with some other standard moments, including 7 grooming essentials for the season and some kick-ass fashion editorials. Enjoy the season, be jolly, and step into 2016 with a brand new perspective on being in style for eternity.
monde mtsi On The Cover Production - Monde Mtsi Photography - Larry English Hair & Make-Up - Kelly Van Reenen Model - Olwethu Sokanyile Olwethu wears Maxhosa Crew-neck
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Editor’s Choice
Black epitomises grandeur, and there’s never enough of it to go around. Editor-at-Large, Monde Mtsi makes his selection of the top lavish must-have items for this season.
Clockwise (From top left): 1. Diners Club Privé Card | 2. Tom Ford Black Orchid Fragrance | 3. Bose QC25 Headphones in Triple Black | 4. Apple Watch | 5. Sony Experia E3 | 6. Clinique Dark Spot Corrector | 7. Samsonite Lite-Shock Luggage Case | 8. Oakley LATCH Sunglasses
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The Business Of STREETWEAR
Streetwear has a lineage that can be traced back decades. Jermaine M. Charles takes a stitch at discovering how it’s fairing in the fashion industry within South African borders. Human beings have valued self-expression from as far back as time goes. One only has to look at the thousands of rock paintings, hieroglyphs and carvings our ancestors left behind to be reminded of that. Those forms of expression told the story of their present, along with their desires, hopes and spiritual aspirations. In contemporary society we now record these same things through various means. Without a doubt, fashion is a major vehicle for transmission of ideals. Streetwear, high fashions’ rebellious sibling is a juggernaut in its own right. It is the youth movement of our time and the most accessible canvas for individual creativity. Our local musicians, especially hip-hop artists, travel through Africa and the world, purchasing clothing items that resonate with their ‘brand’. The artists take risks in creating their fashionista personas. We get to see the birth of trends, one Instagram post at a time. We like, we want and we search. The celebrity status as a fashion influencer has huge impact. However, the most significant channel to disperse what is new and fresh is the music video. A four minute hip-hop video can paint a picture of nostalgia or aspiration. What’s more evidence of the influence of the musicians is the fact that a local track can now get over a million views on Youtube. Not only is the audience local, but thanks to channels such as Mtv Base, global awareness is almost a given.
brands know it is also cheaper than a full page spread in a magazine or a TV advert. Whether or not they can see the return on investment in Rands and Dollars remains to be seen. For the local streetwear brands, getting a celebrity to be an ambassador is a challenge. This is when the importance of creating business relationships comes into play, as you may not get a response from management. This also means streetwear brands need to put in work to build awareness organically and strategically, over time to get to a point where the conversation can be had. There are no short cuts. The South African based retailers have also taken notice of the streetwear movement and the energy of the youth entrepreneurs. Chains such as Sportscene and Shesha stock local Head Honcho, Butan and Cash Time Life merchandise. The gap in the market for more distribution outlets has also lead to newer retail players such as Boaston Society, Lost Property Store, Dope Store, Strato, Shesha, ShelfLife, Anatomy, RHTC and The Corner Store. A few of these even have online stores as well to support their physical locations. Retail focused events that use the ‘pop up’ market model such as StrCrd, Vmswenko Pop Up by Styla Gang and Boaston Society’s Levels Brand Weekend are the new distribution channels available as well.
So who has taken notice? How has the reach of mass media channels impacted the bottom line for local brands? It is very clear to see that celebrity artists have moved from endorsing local brands, to becoming paid ambassadors. The streetwear brands face added competition from local artists producing merchandise like headgear, t-shirts and naturally, music listening devices such as headphones.
The streetwear scene has come a long way since the likes of Loxion Kulca, Circus Monkey and Ama Kip Kip first hit the scene. Aspiring streetwear brand entrepreneurs need more formal business and design education as well work experience to go with their desire to succeed. Collaborative projects, that are on the increase, between brands also needs to happen more regularly. From a design perspective, current brands need to take more risks and go beyond just making the same things year in and year out.
It is a victory for the industry that you can now get paid as well as get ‘free’ products as long as you have a significantly large audience. You can even do well if you have a smaller high quality audience too. Multinational
A focus on global distribution via online stores, given the currency exchange rate, will enable brands to grow. A lot has been achieved and a lot needs to be done. Aluta Continua.
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The Business Of
BLOGGING
Gone are the days when only top magazine Editors graced the seats of front row at fashion week. Aviwe Phika investigates how bloggers have gone from no industry cred to owning front row seats by taking their hobby into career mode. The business of blogging, well a while back I wouldn’t have put those two words together: business and blogging. Maybe I could just say that society was not aware that there’s a serious side to blogging. For example, let’s compare a blogger to an accountant: people will take the accountant more seriously. I bet you, at some point have looked down on blogging. Now let’s talk about the word blogger. Like you, the first thing that pops up in mind is the opinionated guy or girl behind a computer. I guess the word business did not come to mind now did it. Blogging is now seen as a respected career and has expanded tremendously. Nowadays we see bloggers in the lime light doing their thing and not just behind their computer. Bloggers now hire people to do some of their work. Bloggers are now using their business skills; we see them doing their marketing, events, some PR in there as well and making some money here and there…well after some time of course. One could say that blogging as a career is for the rebellious souls or simply those are not afraid to take a risk and challenge themselves. This is because we see many bloggers start their blogs as a career with absolutely nothing and have to use what they have. This includes challenges such as making very little money or none at all. Quitting your daily job to focus on this passion but it does not see to pay off. Maybe you are one of those bloggers and you know exactly what I’m talking about. Now we see a huge increase in the number of bloggers taking their blogging as a career. Initially all these bloggers start their blogs as a way of expressing their views on fashion or whatever they are interested in. Since this career is now taken seriously, there are more opportunities present. These include making money through advertising but that depends if selling products is one of your gaols. There are more special opportunities that can come from being a blogger: in fact, the more your blog grows or becomes a business, the more opportunities you will find.
Those opportunities can be from serious business deals for marketing to product reviews and some freebies here and there. Now the question is does that make blogging a trend or a desirable for many? Maybe and maybe not. For some they go for blogging because they get to be their own boss, go to events, not much experience needed and there is more freedom that goes with it. For some they go for this ‘new career’ because they see the opportunity and also want to be their own boss too; they go for the business side of it and take it seriously. I can say those are the bloggers that are still doing very well with their blog. There is a fair share of those that are doing well and I look up to as well but don’t worry I won’t bore you with a long list of names. I guess those are the ones who did not succumb to the idea of blogging is for bored people and is not a ‘real career’ - it is just a fad. Blogging has not become just a trend, it is growing fast and one may ask themselves about the changes that are happening in the environment and how does it affect bloggers. Blogging is slowly becoming a medium and a way for pod casting. There will be more evolution when it comes to this business and more opportunities for bloggers, so bloggers relax. There is a bright future for this business that is why now we see bloggers integrate their blogs with their Facebook, Twitter and Instagram accounts. But at this point we cannot deny the fact that for some blogging is still a vogue. For some it is a serious full time job. That is why we as the society should change our views on blogging and bloggers and take it seriously. This is because we live in a society where some careers are looked down on and not taken as a serious job. People stay in jobs where they are no longer passionate about only because of the status and money. Blogging is a business and if you are passionate about it, go for it. 11
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Hold & Protect
Fix your hair and put your face on like a pro this season. Here are seven key items in grooming that are sure to get you noticed for all the right reasons.
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From top to bottom: 1. Post Shave Balm - Dermalogica - R570 | 2. Powerful Strength Line Reducing Concentrate - Kiehl’s - R1’512 | 3. Shaving Cream - Santa Maria Novella - R700 | 4. Night Lift - Dr. Gobac - R495 | 5. Eau De Toilette - Balmain Homme - R1’095 | 6. Molding Cream - Moroccanoil - R320 | 7. Deep Purifying Mask - DX Smooth Pro Series - R59.99 13
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#thePROFILE
kwesi Your full name is… Daniel Kwesi Ansah Koranteng. But you prefer being called… Kwesi Ansah.
outside modelling and with whom? I love making music and I also enjoy keeping fit by playing beach volleyball.
You are represented by… XA! International.
What’s the last song you listened to? More by Lawrence Flowers.
How long have you been a professional model? A year and a half.
What do you always carry with you? Good attitude, positive vibes and my earpiece (laughs).
Did you walk into an agency or were you discovered? I was discovered on Facebook by Model of Africa Competition Founder and Creative Director of XA! International, Mr. Ovo Ogufere.
What do you aspire to have or achieve in 5 years? To be able to balance my education, modelling and music career. I also hope to be an inspiration to others that nothing is impossible if you believe in your goals.
What do you love about being a model? I love meeting talented people and being in social environments.
Your Top 3 African menswear brands/designers? Abrantie The Gentleman, Lukhanyo Mdingi and Orange Culture.
What do you enjoy doing
You model. Your face is your
commodity. What’s your industry-insider to grooming perfection? Healthy living, preparedness, focus and most importantly a relationship with God. Any advice for young guys looking to get into modelling? Be confident, focused, prepared. Never underestimate yourself. Trust in God and believe in yourself. What do you do outside modelling? I am currently pursuing Environment Science studies at the Central University College here in Ghana. Any shout outs? To everyone who has helped me thus far: Mr. Ovo Ogufere, Ralph Zillary, Focus GH, Mr. David Iop Richardson, my buddy Dav, Peroni Designs, my sister, Bella; in fact anyone who knows me (laughs). 15
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keagan Your full name is… Keagan Troskie. But you prefer being called… Keagz. You are represented by… Ice Model Management. How long have you been a professional model? 2 years now. Did you walk into an agency or were you discovered? I was discovered via Facebook. What do you love about being a model? I love travelling and the opportunity to work with really amazing and talented people who inspire to be the best at what they do. What do you enjoy doing outside modelling and with whom? I love doing adventurous things, hiking, being at the
beach with friends and family. What’s the last song you listened to? Charged Up by Drake. What do you always carry with you? A book, my zcards and my cellphone. What was the last country (or city) you visited and what did you do there? I was in Sweden playing soccer. What do you aspire to have or achieve in 5 years? I aim for great success as a model and would like to start my own company. Who is your favourite designer to model runway for? Fabiani remains my favourite because it was my first show kicking off my modelling career. Your top 3 South African
menswear designers? Fabiani, Naked Ape and Palse Homme. You model. Your face is your commodity. What’s your industry-insider to grooming perfection? I tend to keep it simple: Face wash in the morning and evenings and I drink a lot of water during the day. Any advice for young guys looking to get into modelling? Believe in yourself and find someone who also believes in you to encourage you. Stay simple: be yourself and everything else will into place. What do you do outside modelling? I play soccer. Any shout outs? My shout out goes to everyone who has supported me this year and to you guys for this opportunity. Thanks and stay blessed. 17
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kwen Your full name is… Kwen Akomaye.
to meet new people and know about their cultures.
But you prefer being called… Kwen.
What’s the last song you listened to? Celine Dion and NeYo - Incredible
You are represented by… ISIS Nigeria. How long have you been a professional model? 2 years now. Did you walk into an agency or were you discovered? I was discovered during a fashion casting. What do you love about being a model? Modelling is one way I get to express myself a lot and when I’m up there I am always free. What do you enjoy doing outside modelling and with whom? I enjoy reading about other people’s countries. I love
What do you always carry with you? My phone and water. What was the last country (or city) you visited and what did you do there? I visited Cape Town. I was there for the South African Menswear Week - a fashion week showcasing men’s clothes. What do you aspire to have or achieve in 5 years? My own clothing line. I dream about that everyday. Who is your favourite designer to model runway for? Dolce & Gabbana.
Your Top 3 African menswear brands/designers? That would be difficult because there are a lot of amazing designers in Africa and my list may be too long (laughs). You model. Your face is your commodity. What’s your industry-insider to grooming perfection? Eating healthy, a good work-out plan, always looking clean and fit is what matters as a model. Any advice for young guys looking to get into modelling? Don’t give up. Keep on pushing. What do you do outside modelling? I have a part-time job. Any shout outs? Shout out to all the amazing models in the world, keep doing what you do best. 19
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TUNDE MADE + OneNigerianBoy + UrbanMen + Ynaija + BellaNaija + The Nation + Leadership + Mania; These are just SOME OF THE PUBLICATIONS BABATUNDE OYEYEMI HAS DISCOVERED HIMSELF IN. WORKING AS THE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF AT ROUGH AFRICA, PUSHING HIS DREAM AS CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF MAXIVIVE COUTURE IS LIKE CHILD’S PLAY FOR THE YOUNG AND TALENTED LAGOS-BASED NIGERIAN DESIGNER, AND WE’RE HAPPY TO PLAY WITH. interview by MONDE MTSI photographs by KADARA ENYEASI 21
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RENASCENCE Magazine: Congratulations on your recent showcase at Lagos Fashion and Design Week 2015 presented by Heineken. How did it feel to watch your collection float down the catwalk on day 1 of fashion week? Babatunde Oyeyemi: It felt so cool that I couldn’t wait to hear the feedbacks from the audience. RM: What was it like working towards that moment at LFDW? BO: It was very S-T-R-E-S-S-F-U-L but worth it. Paid off at the end of the day. RM: Harmattan, showcased at LFDW, was preceded with Pre-Harmattan, a smaller, capsule version of the collection. What 22
was the preparation like developing the idea from a capsule collection into a full collection? BO: The inspiration behind the collection was from some three personalities called “dark triad”, it was somewhat an elaborate read and research in putting the ideas that lead into the collection. RM: Where do you get your inspiration for your collections? BO: My inspiration is very fluid, diverse and versatile. It comes from various places, angles or what have you. Writing this inspires me too. RM: You’ve been designing since around 2007. What has the development of you
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and the brand Maxivive been like between then and now? BO: Whew! It’s been a very tough one with rough roads, however, my development has been a product of my environment and maturation. The good thing is that, I have grown, scars or not. RM: Has the industry been good to you? Have you been able to tap into the industry to further yourself as a designer and Maxivive as a brand? BO: Hmmm, lets say the industry is getting better. The opportunities are popping right about now. RM: How has the Maxivive man grown with the brand in recent years? BO: With trust and brand loyalty, the Maxivive man has helped in creating a stable brand with his encouragement. 26
RM: Do you think consumers’ appreciation for the more Eurocentric African designers is influenced by the changing landscape for menswear or is it something else; perhaps socio-economic or being exposed to international media and trends maybe? BO: I personally feel that where there’s consumer acculturation, all the above words holds a great stand in the consumers’ appreciation of brands like mine. RM: What do you think for Maxivive is the single quality or characteristic that makes the brand and its collections stand out from the crowd of African designers today? BO: It’s a brand that evolves with constant innovations in designs by looking way into the future. Maxivive designs for the world.
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RM: 2015 saw the release of some great moments for Maxivive. The brand launched Leyqon Wet, a collection for the rainy West African season and the launch of the Spring Summer 2015 ad campaign. What has the consumer and industry response been like and what lessons have you learnt as a brand owner through those two moments in your fashion career? BO: The reactions have been very positive with great energy. Have learnt a million and one lessons but, above all, to stay positive. Never to give up before “UP”comes.
designers are on your radar? BO: Bloke & PAL – that’s all I can think of for now. RM: Besides Maxivive, which local brand are you currently wearing quite a bit of? BO: I am presently wearing PAL, an urban street wear brand here in Lagos and also some pieces from ‘Bodun.
RM: Where can we get Maxivive online? BO: We are presently in talks with Osengwa but for now. We are also currently reachable via email, website and our Instagram account.
RM: What’s next for Babatunde and Maxivive? BO: For Babatunde, focusing on my “papa Oyeyemi” brand which is a psychology entertainment brand and for Maxivive, presently working our next season’s collection which we will be showcasing fully at the Toronto Men’s Fashion Week and South African Menswear Week.
RM: Which menswear brands by African
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bonjour
br!an French speaking with English nuances, Cameroon’s export in Gandhi Square, attributes the birth of his fashion label and successes to his late mother - a woman who herself, was in fashion. Monde Mtsi gets to chat to the Creative Director and Fashion Designer of Hauz Of Lenze Brian Ndienze, about being Cameroonian in a forgeign country, the new African silhouette and what it takes to retain a balance when designing for an international man. interview by MONDE MTSI photographs by PHILLY MOHLALA 34
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RENASCENCE Magazine: Hauz of Lenze is a young fashion brand in South Africa. When did you decide to start the brand and what sparked the inspiration for the name? Brian Ndienze: The brand officially started in 2012. I remember before this, I went to enquire at Lisof Rosebank about fashion and fees. The lady by the name of Buhle, who assisted me, asked if I could sit for an assessment. That was on a Wednesday. On a Friday, I got an email from Lisof saying I was amongst the first 3 students who passed with distinction and they were ready to admit me immediately. They sent me an admission letter, from that moment I knew fashion was the way forward for me as the passion had started from childhood.
The name ‘Hauz Of Lenze’ is derived from my surname, “Ndienze”. Coming from a bilingual country, I feel the word ‘Lenze’ sounds refreshing by the way it’s pronounced; plus its addition to a French connotation. RM: You officially launched Hauz of Lenze this year, October. What was the response like from both media and public? BN: Amazing response I must admit; from both parties and a lot of support (and orders) to the growth of the brand since then. Bloggers doing write ups and publishing my collection online; its an amazing feeling watching the brand grow. I am grateful. RM: You are Cameroonian. How does 37
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that culture influence your designs and collections? BN: I draw a lot of inspiration from my culture since the people in my country are vibrant. They love wearing bright ethnic colors in a vast range of African prints, and that is very evident in my designs. RM: You’ve mentioned in interviews before that helping your late Mother with her fashion work, behind the scenes and in her store, was one of the moments you realized your love of fashion existed. “A mustard seed planted at birth” you’ve said. Do you think if you didn’t help your Mother out when you were growing up you would have still landed up in fashion? BN: I owe a lot of inspiration that I get from 38
my late mom because growing up, I would see her amazing craft, how passionate she was about creating clothes and that kind of planted a seed in me and I knew then that one day I will follow in her footsteps. I am a prime example of my mother’s prayers. RM: Do you have any formal training within fashion? BN: Honestly, not. Aside from what I learnt from my mom, having passed the assessment at Lisof was a result of what my mom had taught me. RM: How do you think being Cameroonian and currently living and working in South Africa, downtown Johannesburg, to be exact, affects or influences your in-
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spiration, work and vision for your collections and brands? BN: I think being a Cameroonian, living in Johannesburg South Africa, I have been very priviledged to use the diversity of both countries and other people living in Johannesburg. As a result, I try to create clothes that can be worn by anybody but still staying true to my Cameroonian roots. Since I sometimes draw inspiration from structures, the vast diversity in infrastructure has given me a lot of different ideas in technical skills, and these are some of the skills I didn’t realize I had. The more I work, the more I experience other skills. RM: Ones origins is usually filled with excess culture and tradition, how do you this culture and tradition from Cameroon has fused into your perception of your world and fashion in general? BN: To stay relevant as a designer, I keep drawing inspiration from around the world and trying to fuse it with my tradition and culture, because I feel fashion should be progressive and should keep evolving. RM: A lot of African designers are adapt42
ing a highly European looking aesthetic. There’s a drop in the incorporation of African prints and a focus on a mood that is almost neutral in origin and destination. What is your take on this move in the men’s fashion industry? BN: I think as a designer it’s important to stay true to your roots. That’s why my brand tries to always incorporate African fabrics season after season. Because first and foremost before a designer I am an African and I would be doing a disservice to my brand if I didn’t show the world where am from. RM: And what about the silhouette? There has been a visible African designer break-away group that is introducing a silhouette traditionally understood as unconventional for men, especially African men. Do you think there is room for such a bold move in the menswear sector? BN: Fashion is always evolving and there’s always room for new trends that’s what makes fashion exciting because of its ever changing nature. Years from now we will definitely see fashion becoming more genderless.
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RM: Your collections portray a dapper kind of guy with an African aesthetic. How do you create a balance that works for both more traditionalist dressers and the more adventurous fashion lover? BN: My collection is definitely meant for a fearless young African man who’s not afraid to switch it up. He can be conservative or traditional, so I always try to design each collection keeping that in mind that it could be adventurous or traditional without being boring. RM: How do you perceive the African man’s fashion choices have changed in say the last five (5) years? BN: Men’s fashion in Africa has gone through a drastic change. You now see more African men taking risks and putting more thought into how they dress. It’s no longer just jeans and t shirts. Boring is just not acceptable anymore. RM: How has or is the menswear industry developing in South Africa from your point of view, especially being Cameroonian? BN: Whether we like it or not, South Afri-
ca is the New York of Africa and as a result of that, men set the trends. They are more fashion forward and they usually the first to take fashion risks because they are naturally a very liberal people. RM: Are we headed in the right direction? Are we creating opportunities for more new designers and a healthy competitive environment? BN: I think togetherness is almost non existent among African designers, there’s more unhealthy competition. I wish African designers would realise there’s more than enough room for all of us to be successful without taking each other down. RM: Talking competitive: What is it, do you think/believe, gives you a competitive edge over other designers? BN: I try not to compete with other designers because that can make you lose your creative edge. Rather, I try to stay as authentic as possible and I guess that’s what sets me apart. RM: Your first collection, AW15 is a warm and tactile story featuring hues of yellow, 43
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I think zips are mysterious They make you wonder what could b I guess I’m secretly obsessed
reds and emerald. What inspired this color palette and bravely distinct fusing of textured fabrics? BN: My first collection was inspired by a ‘Muse’ (Francis Buseko) who happens to be a model. I tried to create a color scheme such as emerald green, caramel, and use structural fabrics to bring attention to his most positive features. Being a kid who had a lot of trouble growing up and being accepted, so the collection was more like a rebellious stand; almost saying “I don’t care what you think about my long legs and arms, they are all God’s creation.
browns, introducing color with the single print selection made. What inspired this turn of events, as compared to your previous collection? BN: I wanted to create a collection that was loud but very understated at the same time. That’s why you see a lot of neutral colors being mixed with African prints to try and create a balance because also men have evolved in fashion. I feel this collection speaks confidence, a risk taker, a smart man who can use any piece of material to create a fashion statement.. Hence the theme of the range 2015/16 ‘The New Man’.
RM: With your SS15/16 collection, you seem to have taken a turn: you’ve gone very neutral with nudes and desert
RM: You introduced swimwear with this new SS ‘15/’16 collection. What was the learning curve like embarking on that
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without being overly sexy. be underneath. I guess that’s why. So with using zips in my designs.
task and having to adjust your technical skills from full body wear to somewhat very little garment pieces? BN: I feel a little bit of sexiness without being too forward was the idea behind the swimwear pieces. I want every one to wear these pieces whether six packs or lean bodies and still feel good and confident in them. So the “mesh fabric” was also a mystery fabric item. RM: Generally speaking, who are your top 3 African menswear designers at the moment? BN: Orange Culture, Keith Henning and Laduma Ngxokolo. RM: What are your top 3 or 5 essentials
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every man should do or own to stay on top of their game? BN: A crisp white shirt, well-fitted formal pants, a good pair of shoes, a well-fitted trench coat and a good men’s fragrance. RM: How would you define the ideal African Renaissance Man? BN: This is a new African man who is not afraid to take risks, whether in fashion or their personal lives. RM: What’s next for Hauz of Lenze? BN: I try not to plan too far ahead but I hope to keep seeing my brand grow from strength to strength and reaching a larger market. RM. 47
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I am A smart tongue, sharp intellect and a whole lot of down to earthness. One can’t help but sit and pay attention. Tzar Studio’s Creative Director, Ian Audifferen might have a strong fetish for the monochrome but there’s nothing taboo about his confident style and fashion gray matter. From modernly rebellious shirts to the splendor of a full retail offering, Ian has taken Tzar from 0 - 100 in seconds and there seems to be no stopping the visionary arbiter of style. interview by MONDE MTSI photographs by JERRY ROTIMI 50
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RENASCENCE Magazine: A few years back we did an interview with you and back then, Tzar Studios was pretty much a ready-to-wear shirt line. Right now, it’s developed into something much bigger. What sparked the change/growth in product offering? Ian Audifferen: I would say my hunger to create more. I’ve come to realise that as individuals we always get to a phase where we have to challenge ourselves and see what else we can accomplish. Making silk shirts was not enough anymore. I wanted more. I wanted to make an impression by challenging the conventions of menswear through my concepts and designs. RM: As the brand is in part a represen52
tation of your emotions, is it safe to say you’ve grown emotional without losing your inner child – based on the evolution of your prints? IA: Yes you can absolutely say that. I have explored new terrains concerning silhouettes and fabrics most especially with my SS16 collection soon to be released. There’s an undertone of minimalism with the shapes and colours but still staying true with some pieces; the reason why this brand was birthed in the first place - my love for prints. RM: Your aesthetic is highly Euro-centric with an identifiable African influence. How do you keep the balance and prevent the brand from looking too European or
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too African? IA: To be honest the balance is a result of expressions of my thoughts and experiences. I am an African man that is highly influenced by the western world and my community, so it is bound to reflect in my designs. I try not to come off too African or too European because I think too much of either stereotypes you into either of these categories but being in the middle is so much fun. The balance comes from a fusion of African elements in design with western technical know-how. RM: Where do you get your inspiration for your collections? IA: I am inspired mostly by things that affect me, by things that I have experienced and things that have a significant impact in the time line of my existence. It could be a trip I took, an art piece I saw and fell in love
with or something tragic or hilarious that happened to me. RM: We stalk your social media. Your Instagram and Tumblr accounts resonate profoundly with someone who is open-minded, a little risqué and unashamedly a global citizen. Is this the Tzar man? IA: LOL at stalk. You can say that. The Tzar man is definitely not your average man, there’s a little oomph about him or how do they say ‘je ne sais quoi’. He wants more out of life, most certainly risqué, meticulous about his appearance and how he influences his environment and his interaction with it. The Tzar brand is built around this ethos. RM: And what about the Nigerian man who has immediate access to Tzar in the country. Are they too this global citizen 55
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your digital mood boards speak of? IA: A certain percentage of the Nigerian men are, they totally represent the character of the man the brand exudes. RM: What has the African man’s response to the newer, matured Tzar been like? IA: I would say all of the above. Menswear is changing drastically globally but I would say what triggers the consumer base here is the exposure to international media and trends. It’s that but most importantly I feel that most Eurocentric African brands have put themselves on a pedestal where African men want to be associated with the dose of fashion that is being served. RM: What do you think for Tzar Studios is the single quality or characteristic that makes the brand and its collections stand out from the crowd of African designers 58
today? IA: I think that factor would be my use of very distinctive fabrics. RM: We’ve noticed a few hints into the development of footwear from Tzar being introduced with the SS16 collection – is this a new product category the brand is strongly considering moving into? What kind of footwear can we expect from the brand? IA: You never know I might just take it up in the nearest future but for now the slides created were part of a story for the SS16 collection so I will observe how it is received and act on it. What kind of footwear can you expect? Any kind. I never know where my creative instinct may take me. RM: And online? We’ve seen you’re now stocking with the online platform Oseng-
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wa. How has the move to being available on online stores been for the brand? What kind of challenges have you had to overcome and lessons learnt? IA: The online platform I must say is a breath of fresh air due to the burgeoning demand of merchandise from overseas, so it just bridges that gap of not being able to cater to a wider demographic of people and I’m super excited about it. It’s been slow and steady so far, it just launched so we shall be learning and taking notes as time goes by.
RM: Which menswear brands by African designers are on your radar? IA: I would say Laurence Airline. Absolutely love that brand. RM: Besides Tzar, which local brand are you currently wearing quite a bit of? IA: To be honest I wear my pieces almost every time. But asides me I would say Sisiano. He has a very urban twist to contemporary menswear. Watch out for him. RM.
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7 BAGS Must-Have Production - Monde Mtsi | Photography - Larry English Make-Up Artist - Kelly Van Reenen Assistant 1- Thabo Dhlamini | Assistant 2 - Yolanda Willie Model - Luvuyo N (TWENTY Management)
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The
Tote Bag: White vertical tote - Ferves | R 2’950 Jacket: Organza Iver hoodie - Leigh Schubert | R 895
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The
Nomad Bag: Black Nomad backpack - Ilundi at SAM | R 1’700 Jacket: Hibiscus Dream - AYA Goods | R 1’200
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The
Crossbody Bag: Alpha Bravo Beale Crossbody - TUMI | R 4’599 Jacket: Parka in Red Hot - Unknown Union | R 1’800
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The
Ruck Bag: 40th Anniversary Rucksack - TUMI | R 11’499 Jacket: Tulip Charcoal/Grey Coat - Selfi at SAM | R 1’300
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The FoldOver Bag: Fold-Over Sandwich - Imprint ZA | R 875 Jacket: Sotho Duffle - Unknown Union | R 5’500
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The
Holdall Bag: San Telmo Holdall - Missibaba | R 6’030 Jacket: Jaded Bliss - AYA Goods | R 1’200
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The
Traveler Bag: Alpha Bravo Leather Commuter - TUMI | R 11’499 Jacket: White Denim Biker - Topman | R 999
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URBAN CHASE photography by randolph garrett styled by britney outen model is shawn outen (Chase Models NY) All garments by Creative Recreation
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James wears Shirt, Indigo jeans, denim high-tops - all from Levi’s Strauss 88
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KNOCK-OUT
photography Luxolo Poyo assistant Amahle Cishe production Monde Mtsi assistant Thuso Motumi assistant Liviwe Gobeni make-up artist Kelly Van Reenen models James Fabrice & Tshimaro Mbiola (Wicked Talent) Special Thanks to One Up Lifestyle & Cape Town Fight Club for the location of the shoot
Tshimaro wears Shirt, Indigo jeans, denim high-tops - all from Levi’s Strauss 89
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Tshimaro wears dungaree from Topman Dunk Pitch lo-cut sneakers from Levi’s Footwear
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James wears dungaree from Boaston Society Dunk Pitch hi-cut sneakers from Levi’s Footwear
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James wears Denim twill shirt & Denim shorts from GUESS Dunk Pitch hi-cut sneakers from Levi’s Footwear 92
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Tshimaro wears Denim shirt & Denim shorts from GUESS Dunk Pitch lo-cut sneaks from Levi’s Footwear
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(Left) Tshimaro wears Indigo denim jacket & Blue denim shorts from Levi Strauss (Right) James wears Stone-wash denim jacket & 501’s cut into shorts in faded blue from Levi Strauss
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(Front) James wears Blue denim jacket from Topman Denim shirt (on waist) from Levi Strauss Stone-Wash denim jeans from Levi Strauss Dunk Pitch sneakers from Levi’s Footwear
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(Front) Tshimaro wears Black denim jacket from Topman Denim shirt (on waist) from Levi Strauss White stretch jeans from Topman Dunk Pitch sneakers from Levi’s Footwear
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7 Shades Of
LIT Production - Monde Mtsi | Photography - Larry English Make-Up Artist - Kelly Van Reenen Assistant 1- Thabo Dhlamini | Assistant 2 - Yolanda Willie Model - Olwethu S
Shades: Hand-stitched Leather & Wood - Prada | R 8’400 Shirt: Reverse Leopard Print with Straps - Stiaan Louw | POA
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Shades: Black rims with Gold Detail - Dolce & Gabbana | R 2’770 Shirt: Denim Chinese Collar Shirt - Topman | R 599
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Shades: Polarized Rounds with Translucent Rim - Ray-Ban | R 1’540 Shirt: Madiba Shirt with Orange Stars - WildFlower | R 685
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Shades: Mirror-lens Cat-eyes - Giorgio Armani | R 3’520 Shirt: Nasian Sleeveless - LaurenceAirline | R 1’836
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Shades: Mirror-lens Bames in Walnut - Ballo at SAM | R 1’390 Shirt: Blue Strips on White Day Shirt - Topman | R 599
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Shades: Tortoise Shell Rim Roundies - Prada | R 3’220 Shirt: Kanga in Black - Unknown Union | R 950
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Shades: Translucent Turquoise Frames - Burberry | R 2’160 Shirt: Kanga in White - Unknown Union | R 950
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stockists 7 MUST-HAVE BAGS AYA Goods Ferves Ilundu Leigh Schubert Missibaba South African Market (SAM) Selfi Topman TUMI Unknown Union
...Facebook.com/AyaGoods ...The ShowSpace ...ilundi.co.za ...The ShowSpace ...Missibaba.com ...ilovesam.co.za ...selfi.co.za ...Instagram.com/Topman_SA ...V&A Waterfront – 021 419 4253 ...UnknownUnion.co.za
URBAN CHASE Creative Recreation ...Cr8rec.com KNOCK OUT Boaston Society GUESS Levi’s Footwear Levi Strauss SA Topman 7 SHADES OF LIT Ballo Eyewear LaurenceAirline Luxottica WildFlower at Merchants On Long Stiaan Louw
...Instagram.com/BoastonSociety ...Guess.com ...011 630 4000 ...Levis.co.za ...Instagram.com/Topman_SA
...Ballo.co.za ...LaurencAirline.com ... 021 486 6100 ...MerchantsOnLong.com ...Instagram.com/StiaanLouw
Merchandise correct at time of publishing. RENASCENCE Magazine cannot be held liable for any changes that may have occurred without its knowledge. 116
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#creditsLAST_WORD
#ThrowBack 117