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contents Editor’s Note ...three Opinion by Sive Booi ...four Opinion by Siya Baliso ...six Opinion by Jermaine Charles ...eight Grooming ...ten Editor’s Choice ...sixteen Street Style ...eighteen profile... Armando Shoes ...twenty profile... Laurenceairline ...twenty-two profile... Keith Henning ...twenty-four The Interview... Bhubesii ...twenty-six
The Interbiew... Laduma Ngxokolo ...thirty-four The Interview... Egya Appiah ...forty-four 1 Suit 5 Ways ...fifty CityShades ...fifty-six Fashion Forward ...sixty-six Basic Instincts ...seventy-four Pool Boys ...eighty-four Stockists ...one hundred Last Word / #Throwback ...one hundred and one
masthead\\contributors MONDE MTSI
editor
LINDILE NDWAYANA - managing editor contributor - JERMAINE CHARLES BUNTU SOTYANTYA - copy editor contributor - SIVE BOOI SONGZ NKOMO - layout designer contributor - SIYA BALISO Questions, comments, and contribution enquiries can be forwarded to renaissancemensa@gmail.com 2
editor’s note To a certain degree, putting together this digizine has been a sneak peak into fatherhood. Having been pregnant with the idea since 2011 and only going into labour a mere twelve months ago, I have a higher appreciation for creatives who work passionately to put together publications, time and time again. It’s not easy but I am sensing the rewards of seeing the finished product alive are priceless. This little baby of ours, in its first entry into the world, comes as a more introspective installation. A revisit to some of our favourite moments on the blog, with one or two inclusions of new content not previously published on the blog. For us, this is a subliminal test to whether we can really take our work to the next level. We trust the profiles and interviews will be enjoyed and that the opinion and advice pieces will be taken to heart and consumed with an open mind. For now all we can ask for is that you take in what you can and let us know what you think of it all, so we know what to do next. Help us better ourselves so we can create an amazing next issue - the autumn winter issue.
monde mtsi
On The Cover Armando Carbral by Adrien Sauvage Image copyright A. Sauvage
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VOX POPULI
Your Style IsYour Skin Personal style is as informative as it is informed by other things. Depicting all sorts of interests and opinion one has to mould a specific identity, much like their own skin. Sive Booi talks about his personal interpretation of style and explains why he considers it his first skin.
Often I am asked to define what style is; this is quite a precarious topic of conversation in that style is an individual thing and everyone has their own rendition. Some mistake fashion for style. There is a slight difference in that fashion comes and goes but style is eternal. Stylish people are at ease with themselves. Whether you are daring or conservative it’s irrelevant as long as what you put across is who you are. More often than not people have formed a perception of you long before you even say a word; so your style is your voice. In any conversation it’s never what you say, it’s how you say it. One can learn about fashion but with style, you have to almost know it already in order to execute it correctly. Style for me includes many factors; including how one puts their wardrobe together, to elements such as the interior space of their living quarters. Essentially, it’s about the aesthetics of their life as a whole. The concept of style is subjective. It is informed by your experiences, your perception of self and how you want to be seen by the world. For me it’s your ‘first skin’ and you might as well be comfortable in it.
My style is informed by my interests. This varies from film, literature, architecture, music, everyday people, nature and obscure things that I come across ever so often. These days male consumers can travel anywhere with a specific budget and they will find a designer or shop catering to their specific preference. Options available for men include young designers, department stores, small boutiques, established designers, and even online shopping. With style variants from smart and conservative; bold and urban, the possibilities are currently adundant. I feel the challenge for men in general is to escape the archetypal box. The trick is to discover what you like best that works the greatest for you. Then you have to ensure that what you wear reflects this characteristic and is of your own independent thought. It’s okay to buy something that is trending; it’s even better to fuse it with an item only you love. Someone once said as long as you have a clean pair of socks and underwear you are halfway there. So you first have to be comfortable in your own skin, know and appreciate your form, give it your own personal touch and have fun doing it. 4
Illustration by Christian Cimoroni // rebelrebelblackandwhite.tumblr.com
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African Snapshot
Photography is tricky business, being subjective and all. Then comes fashion photography and you have to add an entirely contrived set of rules to the game. Siya Baliso investigates whether South African photographers can make the big break.
Fashion photography has changed the fashion game. Essentially, people decide what to wear because of it and they are not instructed or dictated for by big fashion houses. I am not going to start rambling on about who my favourite fashion photographers in South Africa (SA) are, not that I don’t have any, instead, I am going to get into the gist of things about them. It is often said that SA has an adopting culture, it is then for this piece that the former is counter-argued, for I am speaking from a Southern African context with authenticity - no need to take you to Hollywood Boulevard to make you understand the goings-on in your own fashion street. When you zoom in at fashion photographers in SA, it is undeniable that many of them are not fazed by living glamorous lives and displaying vast amounts of wealth in ostentatious ways. This is why many people would pass them off as still climbing the ladder; I could be wrong. With that said, there seems to be a vast difference between our home grown photographers and the ones abroad in terms of wealth, and the often dreadful term, ‘making it’. On a larger scale, the fashion industry is on the receiving end of the magnifying glass abroad than it is
in SA. There are South African photographers who have managed to break into the international arena - Kevin Macintosh, Koto Bolofo,Gerda Genis, David Sessions, even Chris Saunders. You might ask yourself whether fashion photography is a viable career in SA. The answer is yes. Like with many industries, the fashion industry in SA is at its prime and is expanding; dominating in Africa and in the process of being recognised fully, with no reservations, by international players and critics. Another thing is that SA magazines and fashion designers need to recognise, appreciate and utilise young and upcoming photographers as well as those that are already established, to eliminate the ‘breaking international arena’ trend and rather create their own standards and wealth in their own country. There is so much we can do in this country, we just need to invest in the talent. So many opportunities and such creativity. All it takes is mutual relations and development. There are many chances within fashion photography; it creates desire and the fashion industry is growing at a fast pace; there is hope for SA photographers to create their own reputable empires. 6
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The Man &The Mouse
Click click, we’re in the Twenty-first Century and men are buying their clothes via the interweb. Or are they? Jermaine Charles deciphers the pros and cons of being a man shopping in the digital age.
My best friend is getting married and I will be his best man. I am wracked with a double dose of anticipation, as this rite of passage reaffirms my adulthood in ways I haven’t begun to fathom. In my mind, numerous images brought to mind, nothing seems more significant than the image of myself and the other best men, dressed in beautifully tailored black suits, crisp white shirts, knotted silk ties with a dimple or two, cufflinks and well crafted shoes. A league of gentlemen, a brotherhood; a Kodak moment the style dons would be proud of.
to bite an apple or not. A friend who has more insights on my tastes than I do of myself.
And that is why I fear that online shopping for men is a challenge we have yet to fully comprehend. Trust is earned not given. On purchasing online, do I trust that the garment will arrive? Will it suit me when I try it on? Is the fear monster called Disappointment, nagging at us when we consider buying online? Can we wait or are we too ill disciplined to delay gratification to wait a day or a week for our garments Just one thing: I haven’t seen my suit yet. to get to us? I know how much it costs. I know it will be my size; I know its black, wool, 2 button There are a myriad of reasons why not a lot single breast, single back vent, peak la- of men shop online. But perhaps it’s about pel, and slim cut. Would having a picture what they are buying rather than if they with 360 views, detail shots, descriptions of are buying at all. The thing with clothing is the weight of material, the lining, the tai- that it isn’t a ‘cold product’. A beautifully lors, make a difference? Maybe it would designed ticket, will probably not inspire calm my spirit a bit more. However the prose. It will function and be forgotten. I real question here is TRUST. Trust in a friend I would say it would be the same for a tshirt, have known since university. A friend who a hoodie, a cap or a pair of jeans. Howaspires for more much like me. A friend ever a suit from Ozwald Boateng or House whose couch I slept on for 4 months when of Ole, with the textures that inspire touch, I decided to leave Johannesburg and the drape of the fabric as a jacket rests settle in Cape Town. My friend has chosen on your shoulders, the break of the trouit for me. A friend who has seen enough sers just as the hem lies on your brogues. years with me to know when I’m going You more than pictured it didn’t you? 8
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groomSCENTED
Versace Eros, god of love
Aptly titled, Versace’s Eros fragrance for men presents a scent fused with all the right ingredients to ensure your manhood is exalted without any of the chauvinistic characteristics included. Heavy enough to stand its ground in the summer sun with notes of cedarwood and oak moss, and light enough to seduce summer nights with Italian lemon zest, mint leaves and green apples; this perfum drips of soft-spoken
virility grounded by oriental notes such as amber, vanilla and Tonka beans. Designed with the concepts of beauty, passion, desire and love in mind; Versace Eros will incite therapeutic nuances of romance, flirtation and sexual power in a new way for every dapper man this season. Versace Eros is available is 50ml and 100ml bottles from selected retailers.
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groomSKINCARE
SunFun,
protection to keep the fun going
Living in the southern hemisphere means extremely amazing summer days. To make sure one doesn’t land up looking like burnt wood, protection is required. With its superior broad spectrum protective qualities, this lightweight sunscreen can be used as a daily applicatant thanks to its non-oily cream base. Sun-C has an easy to apply texture with every drop scientifically formulated to nourish the skin with active ingredients
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such as Vitamins C and E to activate skins collagen synthesis and Yeast Polysaccharides to protect against premature ageing. Nimue has ensured that every man gets his just desserts of protection and with the added plant based emulsion base which also makes it suitable all skin types. Nimue Sun-C SPF40 is available in a 60ml tube from all leading retailers. RRP R295.
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groomEYECARE
Beauty Sleep, sleep your way to better eyes
Some time ago we had a thing for the Wicca lifestyle. Potions and spells and all sorts of rudimentary behaviour. If we thought we were alone, we were wrong. Kiehl’s presents a potion, much more than just a lotion, designed to do much more than the fountain of youth promises. Mixed with natural ingredients, free of paraben or fragrance with no mineral oil, Kiehl’s Midnight Recovery Eye is the treatment you really want instead of a midnight snack. De-
signed as a restorative concentrate of, the eye treatment will improve the youthful appearance of the skin around the eye contour. Your lower eye-lid will feel strengthened and replenished while the upper eye-lid light as a feather. This baby might come with a slightly higher price tag but it packs a much better punch and your skin’s longevity won’t be compromised. Kiehl’s Midnight Recovery Eye – RRP R355 – 15ml
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groomFACE
No Scrub,
treat your face and it will reward you
Scrub scrub scrub your face, gently once a week. Merrily merrily merrily your skin will feel just like a dream. A procedure so simple it could afford plastic surgeons and dermatoligists less work - scrubbing your face with a great product with targeted ingredients could see you wash your face to longer youthful skin through a less rigorous effort. Baxter of Carlifornia, a new brand in South Africa, presents men of today with a range of products to suit everyday require-
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ments in a very less complicated manner. This facial scrub, gently polishes away dead surface cells and impurities in the skin. While stimulating skin renewal, the exfoliant improves smoothness and revitalizes the complexion. This product is also fantastic for all preshave requirements - it lifts the facial hair and creates a smoother surface for your razer. Baxter of California Facial Scrub RRP R255 - 120ml
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groomFACE
Clean Slate,
get a clean start toy our day - everyday
L’Oréal Men Expert is slowly but surely becoming a household brand in our family. The product, we’re discovering, are starting to make a great impression. Sometimes a complete set, and sometimes one specific product works amazingly well with another group of products form other brands to produce insanely awesome results in a hassle free manner for everyday gents who want convenience as their bottom-line when it comes to grooming products. L’Oréal’s Hydra Energetic Daily Purifying Wash is one such product. With its purifying char-
coal active ingredient, the wash has a ‘magnetic’ effect that pulls impurities, oil an dpollution from the skin to leave you with healthy and clean skin. Its active defense system ensure skin is regenerated and prepares the skin for close shaves that won’t leave you feeling burnt. We recommend you follow this product with a moisturizer that hydrates with active ingredients and leaves you feeling fresh. L’Oréal Men Expert Hydra Energic Wash - RRP R160 - 150ml
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groomFACE
Wet Face,
keeping your face hydrated just got easy
paya with Lemon and Seasons change and it Olive leaf soften stubtakes certain strains on a man’s skin. You are alble, slow re-growth and ways safe when drinking tighten pores, while its plenty of water, however, patent complex of Bison Grass plus Chinese Ginmaking sure you’re hyger energise the skin. This drated all day requires a little extra help. Easy to balm is geared at ensuring apply and difficult to run you stay on top of things dry, ClarinsMen’s Super without thinking about Moisture Balm packs a punch of ingredients to what’s happening on your face. help control your skin’s balance, firmness and levels of moisture. Light and protective, it’s ac- Clarins MEN Paris Super Moisture Balm - RRP tive ingredients; Sunflower firms the skin, Pa- 325 - 50ml
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VOX POPULI
Editor’s Choice
Wish lists are not for the end of the year only, they are for the beginning too. Our editor, Monde Mtsi makes a wish, or two, with this Editor’s Choice of all his dream items for a perfect 2014 experience. 4.
2. 3.
1.
From left to right: 1. JawBone JamBox from LOOM; 2. Alexander Wang for Beats by Dre in-ear earph Camera by Lomography; 6. Tom Ford Noir perfum; 7. Neon Neff Watch by LuksBrands; 8. TUMI San 16
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6.
7. 9.
8.
5.
hones; 3. Ftr Trnmc Slipstream PUMA’s in Animal Print; 4. Okapi pouch in Crocodile; 5. FishEye nta Monica Latimer leather bag; 9. Vertu Constellation Quest Black Leather and Chrome Smartphone 17
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Arm
Fashion is a fu that it’s new, jazz. Truth be times a lot of immediate de innovat
In the world o nated by wom serves to ensu put his best fo Armando Cab nate life-long epon
Needless to s values with a of attention be in Marche, wh With a moder collections con teristics that ar archetype of a ualism and pe the inimitable Italian sensibi construction a a life-long bra 20
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#thePROFILE
mando
unny business. It’s built on the guise cutting-edge, original and all that e told once fashion hit the modern those adjectives died a certain and eath. All that was left after that was tive, crafty and possibly fresh.
of fashion almost completely domimenswear lingers quietly a brand that ure every man continues to always foot forward. Young and beautiful, bral decided to capitalize on his inpassion for shoes with starting his nymous collection in 2009.
say the composition of minimalist classic approach show a great deal eing paid to the shoes manufactured hich is Italy’s shoe-making district. rn and metropolitan perspective the ntinue to reveal the brand’s characre somewhat entrenched in Cabral’s a lifestyle filled with style, individersonality. If it’s anything to go by; e creativity shown through these ilities depicted via fabrication and are to go by; Armando Cabral has and here built on a life-long passion. 21
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#thePROFILE
LA
l a u r e n c e a i r l i n e Laurenceairline is a small Paris-based menswear label. Founded a few years ago, the label has managed to put out collections that are exciting thus far and are turning up the heat on menswear fashion on a global front. I’m always a bigger fan of menswear brands form Africa if they are based in Africa, however, Laurenceairline is churning out designs I wish to own, so I’ll overlook their HQ base and cling on to the fact that the designer, Laurence Chauvin Buthaurd, was born in Ivory Coast. The clothing line is not exactly your typical African tribal print type of design style. It’s more of a reinterpretation of what seems and feels African and is then paired with modern design and sleek tailor work. The brand also boasts an entirely ethical manufacturing process by hosting their production workshop in Ivory Coast, training locals and hiring them to make-up the garments for retail. I won’t bog you down with too many details, just know that thanks to a chance encounter with male “blufunk” musician, Keziah Jones, who commissioned Laurence to make him an outfit for an upcoming show, Laurenceairline would not be what and where it is today. 22
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#thePROFILE
keith Keith Henning is a South African born designer who graduated with a degree in Industrial and Furniture design, but made a radical career change to self trained fashion designer. The label ADRIAAN KUITERS, named after his grandfather, is the product of his love for the golden age of travel and attention to simplicity, function and classicism; a menswear label offering beautifully tailored, locally produced pieces with classic lines in a muted palette that exude a timeless style that harks back to an altogether more elegant age. Adriaan Kuiters humbly stocked the Neighbourgoods Designergoods market in Cape town since its inception, an important platform for Young South African design of all mediums, carrying a limited capsule collection of menswear and luggage. After a resoundingly enthusiastic response to the market, Keith Henning opened the first Adriaan Kuiters shared retail outlet with at 73 on Kloof.
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#theINTERVIEW
bhubesii
With a multitude of layers and a Swiss-army knife of skills and talents to match, Khanyisile ‘Bhubesii’ Sibiya reveals himself as possibly one of the more distinct definitions of a South African Renaissance Man. We interchange questions for answers and discover new gems about a man we already know too little about. interview by MONDE MTSI photographs SUPPLIED In a nutshell, who is Khaya Bhubesii Sibiya? KBS: I am an artist, fuelled by creativity in all forms. Although I specialise in music, fashion and creative direction, in no particular order, they’re all just as important as the other. It’s what I’m good at and what defines me if you had to take a look at my portfolio. Besides that, I have a chronic case of sweet teeth (yes more than one sweet tooth). I’d sell your mother for a cupcake lol.
director. Which of these comes first and why? KBS: They all come first. I’m either making music or styling. Both require creative direction. I’m passionate about them all. Fashion and music go hand in hand.
You’ve been noted as having worked for some pretty top-notch employers, including True Love Babe, Shine and Glamour Mechanics. Has the move to working for yourself truly been a move into greener Do you differentiate between Khaya Sibiya and Bhu- pastures? KBS: Definitely. It has given me more leverage. I can besii or do you consider those two names as part of afford to do way more projects than I would’ve if I had one person? KBS: Initially it was two different characters. Khaya was stayed with one employer. Mind you, there’s no disremore fashion orientated and Bhubesii was music. It’s gard for my previous employers, who played a pivotal funny because I’d run into acquaintances who would role forth my becoming. It’s just that if I had been comask me after years of knowing me if I was Bhubesii or placent and settled for what I had, then I wouldn’t have vice versa. So for a while the two were separate enti- had that urge/hunger to want and know that I could ties making headway in each respective medium. And be better. Me being with an employer meant learning it got to a point where I had to fuse the two to make enough to carry myself through what I was going to go one super Saian. I had to bring everyone up to speed. through. It was a form of preparation. You have to learn The fashionistas had to know about my music and the the rules to break them. music industry had to know about my work in fashion. Why do you think this move has worked for you? KBS: I always had a vision that matched or surpassed Some positions/job titles under your belt include musician (rapper), fashion stylist, artist and creative my employers. I always strived for dopeness and was 26
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very competitive (I don’t know, blame it on the all boy mandments. Same shit different toilet. We stays on it. school memo). And when it came to creative shit, I was Nothing changed but the shoes… always arming myself with what’s next. Looking for inOn that note, do you consider yourself of the hip-hop/ spiration everywhere. rap genre or do you classify yourself as something entirely different in the realm of music? So now you’re a freelance agent. What exactly does KBS: I am Hip-Hop. That’s where I started. Even though that entail? What is you typical day or week like? KBS: Briefs, meetings-sourcing, shooting, writing and I cast my net far and wide in terms of the sounds I exrecording in studio, performing and djing. periment with. I love music. And that’s the bottom-line. I will play with what I like. Whether it’s shit I heard as a With music, there seems to be quite a bit of movement kid or how I wanna feel. It’s about capturing moments. in the field, past and present. Do you agree with most Documenting the now. That’s why I can’t just do that people’s perceptions that your hip-hop/rap career was radio club shit. I don’t always feel that way. And I don’t launched during the fury of Black Sunday in Soweto? conform or feel the need to do a certain kind of song KBS: Actually even slightly before then. By the time we just because some douche bag playlist editor doesn’t did Black Sunday, I was already on the move. So it kinda think it’s a hit. I’m a storyteller or social commentator played a vehicle for me to get to point B. When we cre- if you may. So that means I talk about everything. Hipated that movement it was about setting up platforms Hop is the mentality and music/creativity is the outfor us to showcase the music we were making amongst come. the folks who saw us go through/support those tribulations of being an artist. And once we got that, it was in- What is it about music, laying down lyrics and beats, evitable that others outside our neighbourhoods would that attracted you to the point of actually producing wanna get a peek of what was popping. We just repli- your very own mixtapes? cated the templates that were already in place regarding KBS: The thrill of writing my own history. The powHip-Hop. Those were our guidelines. The 10 rap com- er of documenting my life and of those around me. I 28
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could take a track you grew up listening to and flip it on its head and create something that redefines where you are right now. It’s all about worthwhile moments. Past, present or future and encapsulating them into something that can be experienced/reflective right now. Nahmean? I once ran into some ninja I didn’t know from a bar of soap and he asked me when I was dropping (this was when I was on my hiatus) my new shit. I was like – “eish, I’m taking a break from music and I had shit to handle”. His response really shook me. He was like – “DUDE! Fuck YOUR problems. I need your music to get through my problems! Tjooo! That was really humbling and inspiring at the same time. My music has made such a difference to so many peoples lives and that’s what keeps me going. After listening in on your tracks available on Soundcloud, one finds your lyrics seem so anecdotal on the surface, but I gather there is plenty of fact to them. Do you see yourself as just another artist making music, or do you consider yourself a social commentator, bringing light to the every day struggles of township dwellers dreaming the big dream? KBS: The latter. Although I don’t dwell on struggles. Don’t wanna be a preacher. I touch on every aspect of
life. I make music that plays a soundtrack to life and captures different moments one experiences. Are there any local and/or international producers you’re keen on working with in the new future? KBS: Kabomo, Klein Baas and Taz Arnold. So when should we expect something new, musically, from you? KBS: I’m launching my new ‘Members Only’ mixtape, blog and video on the 30th May 2012. Art is a realm you’ve delved into, very successfully I might add. In what I’ve been exposed to, you tend to depict popular culture and the influences of mass media on the general African population, a theme that seems to run through your fashion work too. These depictions are sometimes done in a highly hyperbolic manner. Do you see yourself possibly becoming the South African Neo-Pop Art movement? KBS: Definitely. Africa has such a rich history and there’s so much inspiration to draw from. So I always attempt to include our [African] culture in whatever I do. We have to re-interpret that history to create something new. Otherwise, we’ll stay in the past and/or oth30
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ers will do it for us. Kudzanai Chiurai is considered one of Africa’s most prominent artists. He has seemingly created a dialect that most young Africans understand and identify with. Can you talk us through your participation in his magazine: Lines, Volume 2 – The Black President? KBS: I’ve contributed to both volumes. With the second one we were asked to interpret Black President in way we wanted. So Zac (graphic designer) and I decided to do an assassination of a dictator with a pig head sitting on a gold human throne carried by child soldiers. We felt that represented the continent in terms of greedy leaders (or other continents) that rape us off our wealth, belief and livelihood. We created the human throne by painting me gold head to toe and posing in different angles that’ll fit into the end design of the chair. After that I dressed up as a dictator that would be sitting in the throne with a bullet between his eyes. You see all of this through the snipers’ scope in which the measurements make a symbol of the cross. Touching on Africa and religion. It’s a very powerful and intense piece. It was so intense that we decided to have the gold human throne as its own contribution next to the as31
sassination. So you can imagine my excitement months later when the Goodman Gallery asked me if we’d be keen on getting the chair made into a sculpture for Kudzis’ exhibition. Because after creating it, Zac and I were like; we HAVE to make this chair into a sculpture. And it happened, with a slight change. Instead of my face they wanted to put his face. The sculpture was made of bronze and weighed 300kg and has since been exhibited worldwide. What kind of creative knowledge, skill or technique did you incur from the experience and how have you applied it to your work/projects since? KBS: Nothing that I didn’t know and apply to my work already. That’s the reason they approached me. We created something amazing and submitted it. And they loved it. I strive for continuous improvement with my creativity. Okay, jumping into fashion, I have to ask. GQ SA’s Top 50 Best Dressed Men in SA 2011 list… What does it feel like to get nominated? KBS: It felt awesome to find out I was nominated. Although I was very disappointed when I discovered I wasn’t in the top 10. There’re cats in that top 10 who got
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nothing on me. Even on a bad day. Whatever. You can’t keep a good thing down. Hence, I’ve been handpicked by GQ UK to work with legendary photographer Peter Hugo in creating a spread using the new collection by Kim Jones, head designer at Louis Vuitton, for the GQUK Style issue, 14 May 2012. Done. Does it change how people approach you, generally and professionally? KBS: Not really. Instead people were like – Finally! Lol. In your point of view, what is the current state of menswear in South Africa? KBS: It has improved dramatically. Guys are paying more attention to what they wear and that’s great. There’s still room for improvement though. Who do you think are the current key role players in the menswear industry in our country? KBS: Boy$in Buck$ The Smarteez popped hot like Chappies no so long ago. It was stated by their founders that guys forming part of this movement are not necessarily gay, but are hetero and brave enough to express themselves
through bold fashion. Do you think we will see more guys taking risks with their wardrobe and style? KBS: I certainly hope so. Although there’s a thin line between stylish and just gay. What do you think is the defining attribute between a man who’ll wear a tangerine pair of socks with a brown suit, as opposed to the gent who plays it safe with his department store uniform? KBS: It’s all about looking good and comfy. And sometimes the guy who tries too hard might not always look good. I know guys who wear all black all year and they’re very stylish. Digging through my stack of One Small Seed magazines, I found a fashion spread you styled for the cult pop culture portal. ‘African Warrior’, one of my favourite fashion spreads in SA print publishing. Here you worked with Tebogo George Mahashe, a gem in the fashion photography quarters of SA. Walk us through the processes of, 1) developing the concept of the editorial from idea to shoot, and 2) the creative experience of working with Tebogo George Mahashe. KBS: We were approached by Angolan model Karina Da Silva who’s based in Brazil and she wanted to do 32
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some African shoot for her portfolio. She had to do it here in S.A because of our infrastructure and aesthetic. She wanted to do something very African but couture as well.
malumkoolkat, the gooddokta and kool urk) has been very influential on the fashion scene especially on the streets. Who do you think bought back skinnies and hi-tops. Boy$in Buck$!
And when George got her brief, he felt I was the right person for the job because him and I had always spoken about doing a high fashion shoot together. She gave us carte blanche and we just went crazy. I wanted to style something that would be distinctly African but very high fashion. And George wanted to go very dark (non glossy). So the styling and photography just gelled coz of the textures, extreme make up and the model. We had a good team.
Any chance of us seeing you behind the lens, as a director, creating a fashion film in the near future? KBS: Yebo yes. That is part of the plans. I recently directed my 1st music video for my single –Members Only. It’s all about fashion. So you’ll tell me what you think once you see it.
Looking back at the styling work done within fashion, and looking at the current state of fashion in South Africa, do you think your work has shaped or influenced any part of the industry? And how? (or) Why not? KBS: Oh hell yeah. I’ve done so many shoots for magazines, ads, music videos etc. I been styling the people that the masses look up to and emulate. A lot of the trends I see now are what we were busting years ago. Boy$in Buck$ (my crew – scoop, mkay frash, ok33
Who are your ultimate muses? KBS: Don’t know about ultimate but right now it has to be my crew Boy$in Buck$ and my girlfriend Bianca Miles. Define the South African version of a renaissance man. KBS: Intrepid. Bold. Relevant locally and respected globally. What’s next for Khaya Bhubesii Sibiya? KBS: Same thing we do every night Pinky…Taking over the world! (Insert evil laugh here)
Image courtesy of Ross Adami
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#theINTERVIEW
MA
HOSA
Every now and then something great is born. Something wonderful and new is discovered and all of a sudden, there’s a breath of fresh design making its way to consumers. MaXhosa Knitwear, is just such discovery. We chat to Creative Director, Laduma Ngxokolo about the brand, its produce, and where the future lies for this proudly South African entity. interview by MONDE MTSI photographs by ROSS ADAMI / ASTRID ARNDT
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What is a textile and fashion entrepreneur? What do they do? Textile and fashion entrepreneurs guide the development process of clothes or textiles from fibre to finished products. My design/production process starts from fibre to assembled knitted garments, so that is why I prefer to establish myself as new generation textile and fashion entrepreneur. As a textile and fashion entrepreneur, as you like to be known, why choose mohair and wool as the immediate medium to showcase your talents over, let’s say, silk or leather? Firstly because mohair and wool are one of the commodities we possess in South Africa, being the biggest mohair producer in the world and Port Elizabeth being the trade capital of those commodities. Above all that, they are special fibres that have good properties like: longevity, good colour fastening and are breathable, which make them perfect for knitwear. What is it about the work your mother, Lindelwa Ngxokolo, created with her hands that resonated
with you enough to encourage the decision for you to follow in her ‘handprints’? I consider myself as an extension of her philosophy, Xhosa people would say in this instance ‘ndiy’ncance ebeleni’ (I was breast fed what I do from her). I grew up helping her a lot with her handcraft work like crotchet, hand machine knitting and beadwork. My mother was a great patriot of Xhosa anthropology, she used to read anthropology books to us as bed time stories. So she has been a big influence in my career path. Your sister, Somikazi Ngxokolo, received a fashion design award herself. How has she influenced your work ethic and helped you get to where you are now? My sister together with my mother where fashion enthusiasts way before I was attracted to fashion. They bought a lot of fashion books, so we predominantly spoke about fashion at home. My sister has always been there to assist me to take my work from fabric to fashion after I play around with the surface design. Your speciality submission to the South African Society of Dyers and Colourists was what started this 38
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incredible wheel turning in a dynamic pace. Your submission was titled, “The Colourful World of the Xhosa Culture”. Talk us through this work and the process of putting it together. The criteria of the competition was to demonstrate an imaginative, creative and original use of colour in either fashion, while considering sustainability and environmental impact of the product. I entered the competition as part of my BTech project at the Nelson Mandela Metropolitan University in 2010. The brief came at a time when I was trying to find my BTech topic. So eventually I came to the decision of creating Xhosa-inspired knitwear for Amakrwala (initiates). Fortunately at the time, I got to showcase my work at an exhibition held by the Nelson Mandela Metropolitan Art Museum in PE during the 2010 soccer world cup. During my research, I found out about the profound history of traditional Xhosa beading, motifs, colours and techniques. I then briefed the [SA Society of Dyers and Colourists] judges how my interpretation of traditional Xhosa aesthetics can be turned into knitwear classics and how they can be made using material that 39
is at my disposal while being considerate of the environmental impact. What do you believe was or were the key factor(s) in your submission that attributed to you being awarded the international accolade? It was the background story behind my project. How expressed my own voice and my reinterpretation of traditional Xhosa motifs into modern aesthetics that suit the Xhosa initiates market that is being influenced by modern trends. As well as my use of South African merino wool and mohair to as part of my knitwear collection that forms part of creating sustainable jobs. What were the major technical challenges that you’ve had to overcome to successfully take your idea from seed to wearable knitwear? I couldn’t access any technology support in the country that I could use to make my vision a reality, so I had to think of ways of bending hand machine-knitting techniques that where at my disposal, so that they could work for my design style.
Image courtesy of SDRPhoto / Simon Diener
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Just how far-reaching is the dream or vision for MaXhosa Knitwear? Although the footprint of the brand is knitwear there is quite a number of products that I am aiming to branch into. My vision is to sustain the brand for the next decades to come so that it serves as a reminder for the next generation of where we come from as a people. At the same time, I also want the brand to be relevant to the social development of the community it has emerged from. At least the brand has a recognizable handwriting of its own now. The jet setter that you are, in 2011, you along with Stiaan Louw, showcased your designs at London Fashion Week. Can we expect a similar showcase on our shores any time soon? Yes sure, either late this year or early next year. What is your opinion on menswear in South Africa? Most of it is filtered from a range of styles that comes from overseas mainstream fashion. However I do think there is huge potential to grow indigenous distinctive styles locally. There are a few designers in SA that you
can tell that they design from a blank page. Do you see potential for a knitwear market to emerge? The overseas market already has a big luxe knitwear market, we haven’t got a significant one yet locally, so I think there is still potential to grow one in South Africa. Is there opportunity/potential to develop talent to cater to the industry of menswear from youth in the less urbanised provinces such as Eastern Cape and maybe Mpumalanga, for example? Yes there is, I think that there is a potential of getting deep-rooted distinctive craftsmen and designers. We’ve seen that from musicians that come from the Eastern Cape. What kind of influence do you see MaXhosa Knitwear having on menswear in South Africa? I envision MaXhosa Knitwear as a footprint that will set a clothing range that will dress South African men from head to toe. I would like my work to be appreciated for its aesthetics, quality patronage rather than have consumers who feel obligated to wear [my designs] because 40
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they are proudly South African.
industry.
When you qualify and finally become a fully-fledged textile and Fashion Entrepreneur, what kind of change or influence would you like to see yourself become? I would like to contribute in economic growth in the South African fashion and textile industry. Above all that I would like to change the mindset that indigenous African fashion cannot make a significant influence in the mainstream fashion industry, and most importantly, preserve African heritage cultures for the coming generation
Who do you consider to be a South Africa renaissance man? I do consider myself so. I live in the new South African spirit which allows me the freedom to express what I feel. On the other hand, as I move forward towards the future, I go back to the past and collect the pieces that define me as an individual so that I know where I come from.
Do you think if enough young entrepreneurs, such as yourself, band together and tackle socio-economic challenges creatively, we could see visible results, like maybe the rise of local mohair and wool mills? Yes definitely. Given the support by the government we can tackle socio-economic problems by creating sustainable jobs, however, I think that should be done in an ethical way to make sure we don’t come back to the situation that is being faced by SA fashion and textile 41
What can we look forward to next from MaXhosa Knitwear? A new collection will come either late this year or early next year. However my aim is to position MaXhosa Knitwear as a heritage brand that can survive decades. What’s next for Laduma Ngxokolo? Having successfully launched my first collection of blankets with Hinterveld, it’s now time to focus on putting together a new collection and ensuring the brand’s online presence is as competitive as all international retail websites.
Image courtesy of Astrid Arndt
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#theINTERVIEW
EGYA APPIAH
Set against impeccable quality standards, President For Life presents a collection for your jewels that proves that luxury can be left unseen and completely felt. Egya Appiah spearheads the brand which produces limited edition garments with unique Dutch wax fabrics and manufactures proudly in Ghana. interview by MONDE MTSI photographs by J. QUAZI KING Describe the brand, President For Life… President For Life is a purveyor of premium boxer shorts for men. Our signature products feature bright, authentic African prints designed to be beautiful and unique. Each pair of boxer shorts is one of a kind from limited editions handmade in Ghana by old-school tailors who are masters of their craft. President For Life is about living the life you wish to live, doing things differently and celebrating individuality, aspiration and strength as the foundation of happiness.
Egya Appiah, Founder of President For Life… Confident. Adventurous. Meticulous. Opinionated. Thoughtful. How did a lawyer get into fashion, especially underwear of all things? Seeking balance and fulfillment, I wanted a creative outlet from my professional endeavors. As a lawyer, many of my skills are oriented around very particular and intangible analytical activities. President For Life is my first foray into the fashion industry and it is a passion project that has allowed me to make tangible my vision of well-crafted, wearable and unique clothes that connected to my heritage, but which appeal to a broad audience.
Briefly describe your background… World-travelled, American African and lawyer by training with roots that span Ghana, The Gambia, Sierra Leone and Dominica. I live in Brooklyn, New York, where President For Life’s retail operations are based, Do you, due to your law background, consider yourbut all our manufacturing is done in Ghana. self more of a technical or conceptual fashion creative? Five personality characteristics to best describe you, 45
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As a transactional lawyer my job is to clearly communicate ideas along with priorities and to seek mutual agreement between negotiating parties in situations that are often complex. Fashion for me is about socializing ideas as well, but the medium is quite different since it centers quite purely around aesthetics that are evocative of people’s aspirations. So, my legal background helps me parse through the message I wish to transmit into functional, wearable art that can be personal to each wearer. Though my grandmother was a well-respected seamstress, I do not personally have a technical background in fashion. I have partnered with a talented creative team who can translate my vision into clothing that speaks to the ideas I wish our customers to respond to.
Obviously, you can find many cheaper options to President For Life. There are also several boutique boxer brands who charge more for much less interesting boxers. I think President For Life has succeeded in colliding fashion with art and luxury in an unexpected but intimate way and we ask a price similar to what other high end men’s basics companies ask for mass-produced replicas. Culturally, I believe our boxer shorts are a bold statement of rebellion against the sameness of fast fashion or the glossy consumerism we are bombarded with daily. We are answering a question that few, if any, others have asked: shouldn’t your most personal/intimate garment be unique to you as opposed to a mass produced copy? We make small, limited edition runs of our boxers for people who truly care about luxury, which we define as personal, classic, and about how you feel and less about how other people feel about you. Our brand equity is the time and effort put into the individualized attention each pair of boxer shorts receives so that we can confidently guarantee that each pair is a unique part of a limited edition series that has been handmade in Ghana by old-school tailors who are masters of their craft.
President For Life is made by expert, African craftsmanship with the high quality materials. The beautiful fabric has a rich, cosmopolitan legacy and we use it in a contemporary utilitarian way. The name “President For Life” is as aspirational as it is subversive and controversial as it reclaims the honorific seized upon by tinpot dictators that are caricatured in still persisting popular notions of the typical African leader - a bloodthirsty kleptocrat. Through satire, the brand channels these emotions into a positive statement about commerce The boxers are made from wax prints originally made and African productive capacity. in Ghana. Why is that, and how has it moulded the brand’s positioning in the market? Obviously, a name like this presents a bit of a moral African print fabrics are a hot commodity in mainthicket - great art about really bad types of people - stream fashion these days. Just about every major however, I’d like to think that what elevates President designer label has appropriated “tribal” as opposed to For Life above shock or crass exploitation is our lavish Ghanaian or Nigerian or Ivorian or South African, etc. attention to detail, style, and storytelling. The logo, that fabric styles charging huge premiums as they do their sits on the front of each pair of shorts, is inspired by the best Picasso or Elvis Presley, while actual African demilitary epaulets of real presidents for life and is a sly signers/fashion labels go unheralded. bit of sexual innuendo as the ‘I” in “President” forms an arrow that points at the wearer’s “president for life” Our vision is authentic and modern and our goal is as it were. classic, quality output that transcends the purely commercial end of the moment. We go to the source to buy One gets a sense of luxury when looking through the carefully selected, high quality cotton fabric in Ghana collections and reading through President of Life’s from one of the country’s oldest and most renowned website. Where is that stemming from? textile companies and we make our shorts there.
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What kind of man have you been exposed to buying We tell our story in context and we place the quality of President For Life? our products at the center of the buying proposition. I think the type of man who buys our products is adWe do this with the understanding that our audience is venturous, confident and wishes to make a statement. global and united in its appreciation of a different per- He walks quietly but carries a big stick. As a testament spectives. to the cosmopolitan nature of the fabrics we use and the universally appealing ideas of aspiration and confiMenswear is challenging, underwear steeps even dence, I’m happy to report that since we launched our further into the harder parts of the industry. Why online store in August 2013, we have had orders from was underwear the first choice to move into a fashion all over the United States and the world. Quite a few career with? of our purchases have been from women who buy our For me, underwear is not just a basic item of clothing shorts as gifts for the men in their lives. unworthy of investment that is subordinate to socks, ties, shoelaces, hats and other currently trendy accesso- Which African menswear designers are you currently ries. In my opinion, comfortable, durable, and beauti- buying and wearing? ful underwear is actually the foundation of any worth- I wear President For Life at all times. There are a few while wardrobe. I chose to make underwear after tiring menswear designers that I enjoy and occasionally watch of what was generally available. I figured that my most to see what they are doing. Chances are your favorites personal garments should not feel like a uniform or if are among them. it were a uniform it would at least be one that represented me. Think about it like this: when you’re seen What are your Top 3 Wardrobe Essentials every Afriin your boxers, is it ever unimportant how you look? can man should own? That’s what I thought. Re-up with quality pieces often. Well, after a pair of President For Life boxers, I’d say a good pair of leather shoes, a well-loved pair of jeans, I think most people would agree that they have found and a fine suit. that what a person hides shows as much about the person if not more than what they show off. Just like hav- Your Top 3 Fashion Tips for looking dapper and efing to take your shoes off unexpectedly when you have fortlessly stylish? a hole in the big sock of your shoe is embarrassing, Take care of your skin, hair and other grooming. Wear getting caught with an unsightly or unattractive pair of clean, well-fitting and ironed clothes. Make sure your underwear on is probably even more humiliating since, socks and underwear represent the best you at all times chances are, on such occasions (e.g., a hot date) you ac- - you never know who might see them. tually wish to look impressive or at least your best. What is next on the fashion agenda for President For What has the process been like bringing these collecLife? tions to life? We are focused on boxer shorts as our cornerstone, and It’s been a great exercise in patience, learning and ful- have plans to expand our product base down the line. fillment. I have been blessed to work with talented pro- We are working on our distribution channels too as we fessionals to bring this collection to the market and I’m believe that experiencing our garments in person is an excited about how the story of President For Life will essential experience for our customers. Watch out for evolve. us at a boutique near you. 47
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ONE SUIT
FIVE WAYS
Maximize a single item with minimal effort and create illusions of facets of style. We take a shorts suit from Markham and give it extra legs on the streets. Styling Monde Mtsi Photographs Larry English Grooming Phumza Sonto Model Irvine B (D&A Model Management Cpt)
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CASUAL
Wear your shorts suit with a grey and white striped crew neck tee from Studio W at Woolworths
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SMART
Top up that casual look with a straw hat from Woolworths and lemon V-neck cardigan from Studio W at Woolworths
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SPORTY
Get active in your shorts suit with a PUMA high neck hoodie and panel snap-back in tropical flavours from Markham
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DENIM
Look the part with a denim shirt and jacket from RE at Woolworths for that Saturday braai with the boys 54
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FORMAL
Give your shorts some authority with a tailored dress shirt with leather shoulder detail by Craig Port for that dinner party appeal
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JEAN PIERRE wears albino tortoise shell eyewear from PEDRO'S BITCHIN EYEWEAR suit with matching shirt by AGI & SAM from TOPMAN CONVERSE ALL STAR high-top sneakers in ultra blue from STUTTAFORDS 57
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WANDILE wears nude owl sunglasses from PEDRO'S BITCHIN EYEWEAR aztec dress from TOPSHOP apple green ankle-cut heels by PLUM from STUTTAFORDS
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JEAN PIERRE wears gold frame rose-tinted lens sunglasses from PEDRO'S BITCHIN EYEWEAR lemon double-volume vest and mocha harem pants both from STIAAN LOUW sneakers model's own accessories by MISSANKE 59
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WANDILE wears pop-up gold frames from PEDRO'S BITCHIN EYEWEAR silk shorts suit with leopard shirt in cotton from STIAAN LOUW heels model's own accessories by MISSANKE
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JEAN PIERRE wears cyan and speckled fuscia frames from NEFF ombre knit top from TOPMAN leggings from SIVE CONVERSE ALL STARS high-top in ultra blue from STUTTAFORDS accessories by MISSANKE
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JEAN PIERRE wears cyan and speckled fuscia frames from NEFF, ombre knit t high-top in ultra blue from STUTTAFORDS, accessories by MISSANKE
WANDILE wears electric blue BURBERRY EYEWEAR, neon red dress from TOPS
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top from TOPMAN, leggings from SIVE, CONVERSE ALL STARS
SHOP, boots model's own, accessories by MISSANKE
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JEAN PIERRE wears: tortoise shell frames with gold strip from PEDRO'S BITCHIN EYEWEAR ombre knit from TOPMAN owl coat by AGI & SAM from TOPMAN leggings from SIVE sneakers model's own 64
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fashion fashion fashion forward forward forward See no evil, hear no lies, speak no untruths as we showcase the best of menswear from Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Cape Town 2013. Photography Larry English Grooming Nicole Grant Styling Monde Mtsi Model Jacel (D&A Model Management) Assistant Aphiwe Fopeni
GOAT CLOTHING
All clothes by Goat. Sneakers by PUMA.
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CRAIG PORT
All swimming trunks by Craig Port. Leather sandals by Adriaan Kuiters + Jody Paulsen.
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CRAIG PORT
All clothes by Craig Port. Leather sandals (left) by Adriaan Kuiters + Jody Paulsen. Patent leather shoes (right) with red lace detail by Cignal from Markham. 71
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ADRIAAN KUITERS + JODY PAULSEN
All clothes by Adriaan Kuiters + Jody Paulsen
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BASIC
INSTINCTS Workwear need not be completely boring, nor completely formal. Buy basics that can be worn everyday in most ways. The key is to stay smart looking in a casual way
photography make-up artist styling assistant
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larry english phumza sonto monde mtsi nikita manyeula
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(Both Spreads) Georg wears mustard and navy check shirt, black tailored shorts with pleated leather belt and gray casual shoes - all from Markham
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Nick wears red and navy check shirt from Markham, Red day shorts from Strato, Tan casual shoes from Markham
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Jamel wears navy and white checked shirt, gray checkered tailored shorts, and leather in tan with navy day shoes - all from Markham
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(Both Spreads) Jamel wears suit and crew neck with pocket detail both from Ben Sherman, Shoes are model’s own; Georg wears bull’s eye tee and suit from Ben Sherman, shoes are model’s own 80
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(Both Spreads) Georg wears suit and crew neck bull’s eye tee both from Ben Sherman, Shoes are model’s own
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POOLB
Photography Mpumelelo Macu Make-Up/Grooming Phum Models Thobela + Tyrese + Siya + Olwethu Venue VIP Sky
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BOYS
mza Sonto Styling Monde Mtsi Bar at the Cape Royale Hotel
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Olwethu wears board shorts by Dax Martin
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Siya wears board shorts by Dax Martin
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Thobela wears board shorts by Dax Martin Tyrese wears board shorts by 69 Slam from G’s Menswear
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Thobela wears briefs by ES Collection from G’s Menswear 90
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Siya wears briefs by ES Collection from G’s Menswear
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Tyrese wears trunks by Dax Martin
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Olwethu wears briefs by Pistol Pete from G’s Menswear
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Siya wears shorts by Speedo 94
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Olwethu wears shorts by Speedo 96
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Thobela wears board shorts by Speedo; Tyrese wears shorts by 69 Slam from G’s Menswear
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Thobela wears board shorts by Speedo; Siya and Olwethu both wear shorts from Speedo; Tyrese wears shorts by 69 Slam from G’s Menswear 99
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CREDITS
Where to Shop this Issue A Adriaan Kuiters B Ben Sherman C Craig Port D Dax Martin G GOAT Clothing G’s Menswear M Markham missAnke N Neff
P Pedro’s Bitchin Eyewear Puma S Sive Speedo Stiaan Louw Strato Stuttafords Sunglass Hut T Topshop Topman W Woolworths Please note all contact details were correct at time of publishing. Publisher cannot be held liable for an unforseen or late changes. 100
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LAST WORD
#ThrowBack 101