Features
30 Best of Dining
The best restaurants, dishes, atmosphere and more throughout the region
42
Fall Fun in Ruston
Football, festivals, food and the great outdoors are just a few great reasons to visit
Dîner Dehors
Tchoup’s
62
De La Cuisine
Render tougher cuts of meat tender and flavorful with this age-old technique 56
Spicy bourbon balances the lush fruitiness of blackberry and orange liqueurs for a robust holiday cocktail
EDITORIAL
Editor Melanie Warner Spencer
Art Director Sarah E.G. Majeste
Associate Editor Ashley McLellan
Copy Editor Liz Clearman
Lead Photographer Danley Romero
Web Editor Kelly Massicot
ADVERTISING
Sales Manager Rebecca Taylor (337) 298-4424 (337) 235-7919 Ext. 230 rebecca@acadianaprofile.com
RENAISSANCE PUBLISHING
PRODUCTION
Digital Director Rosa Balaguer
Senior Designer Meghan Rooney
Production Designer Ashley Pemberton
MARKETING
Marketing Manager Greer Stewart
CIRCULATION
Subscriptions Jessica Armand
Distribution John Holzer
ADMINISTRATION
Office Manager Mallary Wolfe
Chief Executive Officer Todd Matherne
For subscriptions call 877-221-3512
Nobody is more suprised to read the following words than me, but here goes: This is my final issue as editor of Acadiana Profile. My husband and I are moving even farther south to the Fort Myers, Florida area, where I will assume the role as executive editor of a lovely magazine covering that region. It is bittersweet to leave Southwest Louisiana. I spent a long time yearning to come to this special place before we finally got here, but we are excited about a new adventure and plan to visit often. There isn’t enough space in this editor’s note to say everything I’d like to, so this is my attempt at keeping it brief.
The time I’ve spent as managing editor and editor of this publication has been an incredible experience. The people of Acadiana have taught this native Kentuckian so much, including that we have an awful lot in common from the way we gather, the food we eat and the music we create.
Meanwhile, I’ve had the great fortune to work with incredible writers, photographers, our copy editor Liz Clearman, sales executive Rebecca Taylor and the rest of the behind-the-scenes staff. However, and you probably don’t know this, but art director Sarah E.G. Majeste is the backbone of this magazine. (She will tell me to edit this out, but I won’t do it.) I could not have done this job without her creativity, generosity and insane work ethic. Sarah, you’ve made me a better editor. Thank you. From the beginning, I felt my role for this magazine and in Acadiana was one of stewardship. It was important for me to listen, immerse myself in the culture, tread lightly and turn to native Acadianians and the area’s experts to learn the people, history, traditions and rituals, and reflect that in the pages. My fingers are crossed that I achieved that goal.
I’ve loved hearing from those who have taken the time to email or call to tell me a story, point out an error or just say hello. If you want to stay in touch, you can find me on Instagram at @melaniewarnerspencer. I’m sure my replacement, the talented Reine Dugas, whom you will soon meet in these pages, will learn as quickly as I did that when you love Acadiana and its inhabitants, it and they love you back. Thank you for inviting me into your homes and lives for a few years. It enriched my life in more ways than I can count. As always, I hope you enjoy this issue as much as we enjoyed making it. Cheers!
The Full Names and Complete Mailing
Addresses of the Publisher and Editor are: Todd Matherne and Melanie Spencer, 110 Veterans Memorial Blvd. Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005.
Acadiana Profile is owned by Renaissance Publishing, LLC, 110 Veterans Memorial Blvd. Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005.
The
Melanie Warner Spencer Managing Editor Melanie@AcadianaProfile.comWine and Dine
Round up of what's new in Acadiana
BY LISA LEBLANC-BERRYSip and Savor
Something delicious awaits visitors in Donaldsonville’s circa 1895 former power building, reopened in May as the Noël Family Distillery (noeldistillery. com). Private classes and tastings of ultra-premium craft spirits are enticing tequila aficionados, weekend imbibers and spirits industry veterans to Louisiana’s only distillery offering 100% blue Weber agave tequila. Master distiller and retired jet pilot Chip Noel and his daughter Natalie’s offerings include small-batch barrelaged rum, aged reposado tequila and a briny pickle-infused vodka for praiseworthy Bloody Marys.
SPLATTER AND GLOW IN BROUSSARD
For aspiring artists yearning to replicate Jackson Pollockstyle masterworks of abstract expressionism, check out the new Pinspiration studio’s Glow Splatter Room where customers can unleash their creativity by flinging coils of luminescent paint onto canvases with complete abandon. Tip: Fun for date nights; includes suits, caps, goggles and booties. The new arts and crafts studio provides over 40 guided projects.
Chime Time
For more news briefs visit AcadianaProfile.com
Lafayette, Baton Rouge
The newly constructed Chimes Restaurant & Tap Room, underway since July 2022, is making its debut as the fourth location of the Baton Rouge-based original Chimes (minus the rooftop bar and 25-year patronage of LSU football fans). Lafayette’s 11,000-square-foot, 300-seat site is enhanced by a climatecontrolled patio featuring garage doors that open on breezy days. Expect half-shell oysters, gumbos, po’ boys, seafood platters and beer galore (thechimes.com).
Jazzy Guest Chefs
Lafayette Jazz buffs and foodies have been anticipating the fall debut of Antique Alley’s Bistro & Lounge, a welcome novelty for downtown Lafayette (212 N. Chestnut St.). Instead of a head chef, the 2,300-square-foot live jazz bistro features an ever-changing roster of guest chefs and menus. Legendary Ribs is the premiere food vendor (between guest chefs). Caterer and food truck Chefowner Logan Alfred provides his signature crack wings and sauce from Southern Kreole Cravings.
FESTIVALS UNITE IN HOUMA
Voice of the Wetlands is making its longawaited return for the new and improved Bayou Arts Fest (Oct. 28), which has officially merged with the White Boot Stroll for one, massive downtown festival featuring aerial artists, songwriting sessions, cooking demos and art installations. Headliners appearing on Voice of the Wetlands’ stage include Tab Benoit, Randy Jackson and Chubby Carrier while the White Boot Stroll stage features crowd-rousing sets by Nonc Nu & Da Wild Matous and Cedric Watson (bayouarts. org/bayou-arts-fest).
CARENCRO
Pupcakes and Cupcakes
Follow your nose to Smallcakes, recently reopened under new ownership featuring 12 signature cupcakes made fresh every morning. Specials include Wedding Cake Wednesdays and Carrot Cake Fridays. Pupcakes are made especially for dogs. Also recommended: small-batch (made in-house) ice cream and the original Cupcake Smash, split in half and stuffed with double scoops of signature ice cream (facebook. com/smallcakescupcakerycarencro)
For more news briefs visit AcadianaProfile.com
Fido-Friendly Patio Pub
Lafayette, Sunset The Yard Goat, a new patio bar and beer garden, is Lafayette’s latest dog-friendly haven heightened by a special menu for canines. Chef Sean “Pooch” Rivera’s menu incorporates pasture-raised pork and poultry from T. Moise Farms in Sunset. Expect food trucks, fire pits and football fans. Set amid live oaks with bicycle parking, the 11,000-squarefoot patio supports multiple TVs. Modeled after the owners’ popular New Orleans patio bar, Wrong Iron.
Bargain Hunter’s Playing Field
Lake Charles Shoppers who like to haggle until the price is right are anticipating the annual Flea Fest (Nov. 11-12) in Burton Coliseum. Expect an abundance of antiques and art, retro and vintage clothing, jewelry, toys and comic books plus a farmer’s market as lagniappe (fleafest.com).
The Reel Louisiana
Hollywood’s love of Louisiana hails to 1917. The first Tarzan movie was filmed in Morgan City. Heralded as the first film to gross over $1 million and first on location, followed by many others, making the area a hot spot for filmmaking.
BY CHERÉ COEN1
Café JoJo’s DINE
Touring film sites makes one hungry. Enjoy some of the riverfront restaurant’s seafood dishes with bounty brought in from right outside the doors. Or indulge in trademark martinis and margaritas.
Café JoJo’s, a local fine dining hangout in Morgan City’s Historic District, serves up “Southern cuisine with an Italian influence” in a casual atmosphere.
CAFÉ JOJO’S
624 FRONT ST., MORGAN CITY 985-384-9291
INTERNATIONAL PETROLEUM MUSEUM 111 FIRST ST. MORGAN CITY 985-384-3744 RIGMUSEUM.COM
HISTORIC DISTRICT VISIT THE WEBSITE FOR DOWNLOADABLE
WALKING TOUR
BROCHURE 985-380-4639
CAJUNCOAST.COM/ LISTINGS/MORGANCITY-HISTORICDISTRICT
CAJUN COAST TOURISM CAJUNCOAST.COM
2 3
CLIMB ABOARD
Just a bit outside the city’s Historic District is the International Petroleum Museum at 111 First St., where the public may walk aboard “Mr. Charlie,” the first submersible and transportable offshore rig that drilled more than 200 oil and gas wells in its day. The rig was used in the 2014 film “The Best of Me,” based on a Nicholas Sparks’ novel. Louisiana’s oil industry in film goes back further to the 1950’s film “Thunder Bay” with Jimmy Stewart, also filmed in Morgan City.
Historic District
WALK ABOUT
Downtown Morgan City and its Historic District runs from Front Street at the river to Federal Street and from Greenwood Street to Railroad Avenue. Look for historic churches and homes dating from the 1870s to 1900s but also shops and restaurants.
“The Curious Case of Benjamin Button” and “All the King’s Men” were filmed along the riverfront.
FOCUSING ON FLORA AND FAUNA
LeeAnn Hepler
BY JOHN R. KEMPOver the last seven years photographer LeeAnn Hepler of Patterson has traveled the remote back roads and levees of St. Mary Parish at those golden moments after sunrise or before sunset, capturing images of exotic birds that inhabit the marshes and swamplands of South Louisiana. It has been a serene and challenging journey of self-expression that has resulted in a collection of stunning landscapes and the creatures that live there.
“I am an amateur photographer with a passion for capturing and sharing images of the local flora and fauna of South Louisiana,” says Hepler in an artist statement that accompanies her current show at the Wedell-Williams Aviation and Cypress Sawmill Museum in Patterson. “Growing up in St. Mary Parish has given me a deep appreciation for the natural beauty and biodiversity found here. Many of my images focus on the common and colorful birds that reside throughout South Louisiana, but I also enjoy capturing landscapes of the bayous and cane fields that are so synonymous with St. Mary Parish.”
All of these images were captured within a 10-mile radius of her home in Patterson. What makes her photographs even more fetching is that she takes most of
travels the Patterson back roads to satisfy curiosity and her soul(Left) Eastern Phoebe hunting bugs from a hydrant perch (Middle) Burning the cane at sunset in Franklin (Right) Barred owl, Stephensville, St. Martin Parish.
Born
1979, Morgan City
Residence
Patterson, St. Mary Parish
Inspiration
Swamplands in St. Mary Parish
Medium Photography
Favorite Imagery
Birds and Landscapes
them sitting in her car. She also journeys alone to these remote sites, sometimes with a gun handy, for as she says, “you never know who or what else is back there.” It’s a journey she describes as “always rewarding and strangely relaxing” and a “time for silent, personal reflections.” With a natural eye for composition, light, color and love of place, Hepler’s personal reflections have produced remarkable photographs.
It’s a talent, however, that has developed later in her life. Born in 1979 in Morgan City, Hepler has a bachelor’s degree in education from LSU and a master’s in educational leadership from the University of Louisiana at Lafayette. After graduation from LSU, she taught middle school math for about 17 years in a Morgan City before moving on to working in technology at the St. Mary Parish school board. Although she had taken photographs for the middle school’s yearbooks, her attention didn’t turn to serious nature photography until the COVID-19 epidemic.
Because she was a teacher and the schools were shut down, Hepler was home every day. She figured this was a perfect time to improve her photography skills. With her camera in hand, she went out prac-
tice and, as she says, for her “own wellbeing.” While driving along those back roads, she has “lots of conversations in my brain.”
That practice and dedication has paid off, not necessarily in sales but certainly in proficiency. Though she has sold a few photographs to friends and family, she has no immediate plans to turn professional.
“It’s really just about taking the pictures,” she says. “The challenge of capturing images of these small little birds and sharing the local wildlife. So many people have said they didn’t know that we had that here. It’s there, people just haven’t seen it. My goal is to open people’s eyes as to what is right here in St. Mary Parish. These birds are in your backyard. Take the Prothonotary Warbler, the bright yellow bird. I didn’t know that bird existed around here. It’s a spring migrant and it comes every year. The first time I saw one, that was it. I wondered what other things are out there.”
Fortunately, Hepler continues to explore for “what other things are out there.”
Her show, “Back Roads to Back Yards: The Flora and Fauna of South Louisiana,” at the Wedell-Williams Museum will be up through Oct. 28.
Built to Last
BY MARIE ELIZABETH OLIVER PHOTOS BY HAYLEI SMITHOne of the best compliments someone gave Paige LaVergne about her home came in the form of a question. “A carpenter who came in to work on the house recently asked when we renovated,” laughs LaVergne, a designer and owner of Paige LaVergne Home.
Perched on a three-acre stretch of oak and cypress tree covered land in Sunset, the LaVergnes’ Southern neoclassical house evokes the mid-1800s. In reality, it’s circa 2020.
“My goal was to make it feel like it has always been here,” says LaVergne. “I would love for one of my kids to want to take over the home one day and raise their family in it, too.”
Designing a forever home is one thing, but LaVergne’s vision of constructing a livable family heirloom took the building’s plans to a whole new level. LaVergne chronicled the design and construction process on her blog (porchesandporcelain.com), where she admits to sketching out “hundreds of floor plans.”
In the end, she brought in as many features of historic Southern architecture as possible: double porches, rounded columns, painted brick and transom-topped windows. Other inspiration came in the form of the home’s natural surroundings. From the lush, rural South Louisiana landscape and unobstructed skyline, LaVergne pulled greens and blues that appear in both the interior and exterior of the home.
Creating a family home in Sunset that’s never going out of styleLaVergne says she wanted the interior colors to reflect the home’s exterior. The powder blue of her office chairs is a nod to her traditional haint blue porch ceilings.
LaVergne infused the home with timeless treasures, like this antique chandelier from Italy, which punctuates the home’s formal dining room.
When choosing the finishes, LaVergne leaned into natural materials to accentuate the home’s timelessness. Pine floors, unlacquered brass hardware and antique furniture were chosen for their ability to look better with age.
“I love the feel of a lived-in home and these materials will wear over time and add so much character,” she says.
LaVergne and her husband are avid cooks, and a high functioning kitchen ranked high on their list of must haves. She says the investment is already paying
off, as their 3-year-old has inherited their culinary passion and can often be found stationed at the Calacatta gold, marble island assisting with meal prep.
“That’s the showstopper for me in our kitchen,” says LaVergne, who chose to run the same marble from the counters up the wall on her backsplash. “There’s golds and rusts and whites — it’s amazing that it came from the earth.”
LaVergne incorporated even more glamour to their formal dining room. The focal point is a largescale, paper mural of a swamp scene, complete with
herons, spoonbills and an alligator. She also sourced an antique Italian chandelier, which hovers above a table handed down from her husband’s parents. The stage is set for future memories of holidays and family celebrations.
For now, while her children are still in high chairs and booster seats, she’s enjoying the comforts of her home in this particular season. “I really wanted a family home,” says LaVergne. That’s been her guiding light from day one.
(Left) A row of French doors overlook an outdoor living and dining space. LaVergne says the expansive backyard and pond sold them on the property the first time they saw it. (Right, Top) The open kitchen, bar and living room flow seamlessly and showcase dentil molding for a more formal feel throughout. A transom between the living room and kitchen provides an architectural sense of separation between the rooms from above. (Middle) The home’s exterior is painted Benjamin Moore’s China White and features double porches.
DETAILS
Design Paige
LaVergne Home
Builder LHA
Construction
Floors Antique Woods of Louisiana
Brick Mike Baker
Brick
Hardware Distinctive Hardware & Décor
Fixtures Facets of Lafayette
BEST OF DINING
For Acadianians, food is life, art, a hobby and — for some — practically a sport. Each year, with that visceral and deep connection to sustenance and where we get it, we set out to discern the best restaurants, dishes, types of atmosphere and more throughout the region. Here’s our 2023 lineup. We think you’ll come away from this hungry and ready to explore the Best of Dining in Acadiana.
Best Restaurant
THE JAMES 710
Lake Charles Chef/restaurateur Ben Herrera is one of a tight-knit group of Lake Charles food pros enhancing the city’s culinary scene.
Herrera has three restaurants operating in the Lake City: 121 Artisan Bistro, Restaurant Calla and The James 710.
Each eatery represents a concept Herrera conceived of and then executed with talented front and back of the house staff.
Yet, it is The James 710 where a mix of cool yet nuanced restaurant atmosphere gells with Southern/Latin-esque menu items. Diners leave the restaurant feel revived, refreshed and rejuvenated.
He could not get away from cooking. Ben Herrera, 52, was born into a restaurant family. His great-grandfather opened an eatery in Colorado in 1910. The place eventually closed in 2018. Herrera got his big break in the restaurant world at the age of 15 inside his grandparents’ business. He started washing dishes. Eventually, after the cook quit, Herrera worked his way up to the proverbial cooking line. Today, he owns three Lake Charles restaurants and has been involved in several start-ups, including Waitr, which he worked with in the early stages.
“Our mission is to provide an authentic, informative dining experience; with globally inspired cuisine, locally sourced ingredients, Southern flair and a team dedicated to presentation, creativity and knowledge,” states the restaurant’s website (thejames710.com).
In real taste time — the meaning of those words is conveyed via a mélange of produce, meats and spices fused to create delicious and unique-flavored dishes.
The appetizer menu alone is quick entry into an international palate adventure with offerings like Guac and Trash (corn tortilla chips, chorizo hash with coconut rice, pico de gallo, roasted salsa, cilantro and lime) kimchi fries (braised brisket, Cotija cheese and a dark roux hoisin) or the Caribbean rice (pineapple, butter, lemon vinaigrette, cilantro, crispy garlic and lime).
But the around-theworld trip in this Lake City restaurant gets amped up with main dishes like carnitas confit (duroc pork shank, poblano crema, avocado, cortido, Tajín-spiced fruit and flour tortillas); red curry lamb shank (braised lamb shank, curry sauce, caramelized fennel, mushroom, Caribbean
rice and naan); and the 1855 short rib (braised short ribs, coconut glaze, cauliflower purée, smashed heirloom tomato-cucumber salad and gremolata).
The menu also includes a lighter section featuring lentil soup (pico de gallo, crumbled bacon, queso fresco and poblano crema); sesame tuna salad (Bibb lettuce, Asian pear, black grapes, Asiago, toasted almonds, and coconut ranch) and a smoked salmon salad (avocado, radish,
cucumber, pickled red onion, everything bagel seasoning, cured egg yolk and lemon vinaigrette).
“Our food has a modern theme with strong Latin influences, Herrera said. “Executive Chef Renda Ruiz is from Puerto Rico and brings a lot of talent and understanding with all our dishes and flavors.”
For Herrera it is important to have created a restaurant where culinary enthusiasts see and taste intentional passion.
“Not to mention, we are upscale casual,” he said. “People come in with shirts and ties or flip flops and shorts. This is the kind of place I really wanted to make happen for Lake Charles.”
THREE DISHES TO TRY HUEVOS RANCHEROS
A Saturday brunch offering consisting of flour tortillas, eggs, guajillo chile sauce, black bean chorizo hash, pico de gallo, avocado crema, Cotija cheese and and James potatoes with the option of adding brisket or shredded chicken.
YELLOWFIN
TUNA
TACOS
Take the plunge and enjoy delicious handheld food with Bibb lettuce shell, sesame seed jicama-citrus slaw, radish, mint and sriracha mayo.
1855 HANGER STEAK (CUBAN STYLE)
Top shelf cocktails, an airy and comfortable restaurant ambiance, finger food and curry-based dishes are what keep crowds lining up for more from owner Ben Herrera and Chef Renda Ruiz. The Strawberry Fields cocktail is vibrant in flavor and pleasing to the eyes. Meanwhile, a favorite of longtime customers is the red curry lamb shank which oozes exotic flavors.
Ancho crust, salsa verde, sweet plantains and Caribbean rice. Casino (a style of Cuban salsa dancing), rum and delicious dreams await after this dinner.
Best Dish
REDFISH
When the Millers initially put this dish on the menu, catfish was used. Redfish was substituted to elevate the concept.
Atchafalaya Cafe regulars will love this gift of scrumptiousness as an appetizer. The Millers added it to the Redfish Lagniappe and the mix of white and brown crab meat melds wonderfully with the sauce.
SEAFOOD
CREAM SAUCE
It is a secret. All the Millers will give up is that cream sauce is one of the ingredients. You must visit, order Redfish Lagniappe and eat this gift from culinary heaven to figure out the rest.
Redfish Lagniappe at Atchafalaya Cafe
Johnny and Bella Miller moved to Morgan City from New Orleans and opened the Atchafalaya Cafe
more than 17 years ago. As Bella recalls, Johnny likes to tinker with recipes. Some kind of way, the guy concocted the seafood sauce that is spread over a piece of redfish and
served with a crab cake, shrimp and asparagus. If you really want to know how good this sauce is, let us just say this — the ingredients, flavor and consistency will elicit pure lust in foodies.
“It is my husband’s recipe. You could put this sauce over a boot and make it taste good,” Bella Miller said. “It is definitely one of our top five sellers on the menu here.” atchafalayacafe.com
CRAB CAKEBest Family Spot
RiverFront A Louisiana Grill
The spirit and taste of Abbeville is celebrated at this restaurant nestled along the southern end of the Vermilion River. RiverFront serves all your Louisiana favorites, while also offering new innovative items with tuna, alligator, filet mignon and fresh-caught Gulf fish on the menu. Breaking bread here with family makes for a strong, shared culinary experience. riverfrontla.com
Best For Date Night BEST LATE
Mazen’s Restaurateur Mazen Hijazi has a slogan about his Lake Charles eatery. “Memories are made at Mazen’s.” A night of romance can be had at this restaurant featuring classic white tablecloths, top-notch front of the house staff and a kitchen crafting sensuous entrées using duck, quail, beef and trout, along with wonderful finger food like grape leaves and hummus, plus desserts, including bananas Foster. mazengrill.com
NIGHT EATS
Shakebacks
First, the place is open Tuesday to Sunday (with the team off on Mondays) from 6 p.m. until 6 a.m. in Lafayette. Second, the menu will satisfy the evening, late evening, early morning and breakfast crowds.
Pro-tip: Get the Eggs Fonteneaux (Gulf shrimp or catfish fried or grilled, served over two open-faced biscuits and two eggs with Cajun queso). linktr.ee/ shakebacks
From the moment you walk through the front entrance at Mazen’s, every detail that dials up feelings of comfort and intimacy is intentional accomplished by the restaurant staff. Deftly crafted cocktails, vibrant white table linens and soft music enhance the senses during a dinner at Mazen’s. Owner Mazen Hijazi understands what it takes to make sure memories are made. At Mazen’s, longtime customers joyfully return to the eatery in order to relish flavor and a sensual atmosphere.
Best Wine Selection
Wild Child Wines
Intimate places to shop for and sip wine should figure prominently when locals are celebrating quality of life amenities. Wild Child Wines in Lafayette is such a place. The owners meticulously curate a selection of small production wines and conservas, (artisan-made tinned seafood). Visitors will appreciate the atmosphere and focus on special, quality goods. wildchildwines.com
BEST TAKEOUT BJ’s Po’ Boys and Plate Lunches
Whether a person wants to buy a bottle, indulge in delicious snacks with their friends or share the latest news of the day, the center of attention at Wild Child is the wine. The staff is skilled at pairing wine with discriminating palates. Perhaps even more impressive is the menu of snacks from tinned fish to baked good. The staff at Wild Child work diligently to make sure fans of the vine have an unforgettable experience.
A tasty and home-cooked meal is a birthright in Acadiana, especially during lunch. BJ’s in Broussard offers two get-it-and-go options — po’ boys and plate lunches. The Old Tyme Special Poor Boy on its own is enough to make the body do a twostep (ham, turkey, roast beef and Swiss). A good example of a plate lunch can include round steak with rice, gravy, corn, and white beans.
bjsinbroussard.com
Best Patio
Rikenjaks
Owner Jay Ecker is a stickler for Lake Charles having a place for locals and visitors to enjoy food, drinks and music. He hit a home run designing the outdoor patio surrounded by stately trees. Live entertainment, games and craft beer are featured at Rikenjaks. rikenjaks.com
When matters of music, film and food are discussed there are certain examples of artistic expression that supersed the space-time continuum.
In this installment of Acadiana Profile’s Best of Dining, Chef Veronica Alexander has the spotlight on her — deservedly so — as being a modern-day standard bearer in the regional culinary scene. She has honed her kitchen skills to fill up time and space with flavor and love.
Bite into a morsel of stuffed pork roast prepared by Alexander and then ask yourself if you have ever eaten anything better prepared in a restaurant.
Alexander, 58, is the owner of Veronica’s Cafe in Carencro.
The woman earned her kitchen credibility cooking for her family after paying close attention and learning from one of her grandmothers and her father while growing up in the Breaux Bridge area.
Alexander got married, had children and moved around the country with her husband who worked as a grocery store manager.
They came back to Acadiana and Alexander found herself cooking for her church family which led to her cooking at Gethsemane Church of God in Christ in Lafayette.
In 2010, Alexander decided to open the café.
As she tells it, the eatery has run out of food every day.
What is her secret?
“First, I love what I do. I know I can cook well. But it all starts with love. I cook to make my customers feel like they are part of my family,” Alexander said.
Best Homestyle Cook
Best Cocktail Program
Palmyre
The team here wants visitors to “feel transported without leaving Lafayette.” Classic handmade cocktails, French and American wines and delicious food are featured. Yet the lounge’s interior will compel anyone to visit, sit, relax and imbibe. Try a Port of Call, Paper Plane or Penicillin to get the cool vibes going.
Décor, décor, décor ... did we mention the décor? Palmyre is equally known for its cocktails and interior décor by Nashville-based interior designer Lindsay Rhodes and famed stylist Lindsey Dupuis Bledsoe. This place is a true gem in Acadiana. Eating and drinking is not just something to do here, it is an inspired action. At Palmyre, European flair is paired with Southern hospitality to much applause.
BEST BRUNCH The Max
Located at the National Golf Course in Westlake, The Max has developed a loyal following for brunch on Saturdays and Sundays. Menu items include: eggs Benedict topped with soft shell crab, oysters or a crab cake, and the Louisiana omelet (three eggs, crawfish, tasso, onion and pepper). themaxrestaurant.com
There’s much to celebrate
in Ruston this fall, home to both Louisiana Tech and Grambling universities and affectionately known as “Louisiana’s College Town.” The northeastern Louisiana town resides in Lincoln Parish, which is commemorating its 150th anniversary this year and Ruston’s downtown was awarded semifinalist status in the Great American Main Street Awards. ¶ Meanwhile, there’s football. ¶ If that wasn’t enough, Buc-ee’s, that Texas-based gas stationconvenience store on steroids taking America by storm, opened its first location on Interstate 20, just outside Ruston. ¶ Here are a few more reasons to visit Ruston this fall.
Fall Festivals
Ruston opens its doors wide to Bulldog alumni, friends and fans for Loyal Blue Weekends during Tech home games. For three days, visitors may enjoy live music, downtown festivities and pep rallies at Railroad Park. There’s even the “Tech Trolley” shuttling fans back and forth from Joe Aillet Stadium.
“Everyone’s decked out in all the Tech gear,” said Emily Stogner, former director of marketing and communications for Experience Ruston. “You can tell the students really appreciate it.”
When that autumnal chill arrives, it’s time for ARToberfest, the annual fundraiser for the North Central Louisiana Arts Council. The town comes alive with entertainment, food trucks, exhibits and spirited samples from area breweries.
“It’s basically an arts market with beer or a play on Oktoberfest but with art,” Stogner said.
On Oct. 7, it’s Pumpkins in the Park with pumpkin carvings, fall decorations and a community-wide movie, and on Oct. 27, locals come out for the Wine Walk among downtown shops — wine included, naturally. Then on Nov. 16, the Holiday Open House sets the stage for holiday festivities, with shops open late to preview holiday products. The community gathers ‘round to sing carols as they light the Christmas tree.
Regular events include the Ruston Farmer’s Market every Saturday and Big Creek Trade Days held the weekend before every second Monday. The Farmer’s Market sells fresh produce, meats and organic goods but also offers live entertainment, cooking demonstrations, children’s activities, breakfast meals and more. It’s about a 20-minute drive from Ruston through rural roads to reach the massive “barns” and grounds of Big Creek Trade Days. On any month visitors will find 100-plus indoor and outdoor vendors selling everything from antiques and vintage clothing to home décor. There’s even a “Man Cave” with TV for those who’d rather watch football than shop. Holidays are big events at Big Creek and an extra date happens on Black Friday, this year on Nov. 24.
Things to Do
Ruston’s quaint and historic downtown features boutiques, restaurants and entertainment venues but it’s also an art-lover’s heaven. In addition to numerous art galleries such as Ruston Artisans, Fringe and the Creative Exchange, the town is immersed in murals and The Bulldog Project, a trail of ceramic bulldogs created by regional artists in honor of Louisiana Tech’s mascot. This year, look for seven new canines around town.
The historic Dixie Center for the Arts began in 1928, then as the New Astor Theatre to showcase silent films. It quickly morphed into talkies as the Rialto,
Pumpkins in the Park
Mark your calendars for Oct. 7th. There will be pumpkin carvings, fall decorations and a community-wide movie.
Peach Farm
If you want to learn why Ruston is Louisiana’s peach capital, visit Mitcham Farms and Peach Orchard, the largest of the peach producers in the area.
Heard Freighthouse Food Park
The park adjacent to the railroad tracks offers five food trucks, including Grown and Grazed by Chef Desi Bourgeois that serves up organic and locally sourced dishes. Occasionally, there’s live music on site as well.
then as the Dixie when a group from New Orleans took over ownership. After suffering neglect, the theater was resurrected as the Dixie Center for the Arts and now offers theater performances, live music concerts and more.
In nearby Grambling, on the campus of Grambling University, visitors can learn about college football’s “winningest” coach at the Eddie G. Robinson Museum. Coach Rob, as he was known, was inducted into the College Football Hall of Fame, won 408 games during his 57 years coaching at GSU, graduated 80 percent of his players and moved more than 200 of his athletes into the NFL.
Bike Trails
Lincoln Parish Park, where its 10-mile mountain bike trail is rated as one of the best in the country for both beginners and advanced riders.
The Bulldog Project
A trail of ceramic bulldogs created by regional artists in honor of Louisiana Tech’s mascot.
If you want to learn why Ruston is Louisiana’s peach capital, visit Mitcham Farms and Peach Orchard, the largest of the peach producers in the area. Fall may not be the season for peaches — do return in June for the annual Peach Festival — but visitors can tour the farm and purchase a variety of peach products, arts and crafts and gourmet foods.
Of course, there’s also college football. Tech home games include Western Kentucky Oct. 5, New Mexico State Oct. 24 and Sam Houston Nov. 11 (homecoming). Grambling’s home games at the Eddie G. Robinson Memorial Stadium include Alabama A&M Oct. 14 (homecoming) and Bethune-Cookman Oct. 28.
Get Outdoors
Three state parks lie within a short drive from Ruston: Lake Claiborne, Jimmie Davis and Lake D’Arbonne state parks. Closer to town is Lincoln Parish Park, where its 10-mile mountain bike trail is rated as one of the best in the country for both beginners and advanced riders. Mountain Bike Action Magazine ranked the trail among the nation’s top venues and professional biker Ned Overend called Lincoln Parish Park “one of the most challenging trails.”
New to Ruston is the Rock Island Greenway, a shared-use walking, running and cycling path through the city. Known locally as the “RIG,” the greenway connects neighborhoods, schools and recreational areas and provides a great way for visitors to view the city, including checking out the unique mural gracing the I-20 underpass.
Grown and Grazed Chef Desi Bourgeoist serves up organic and locally sourced dishes.This popular downtown food truck will curb your cravings for ‘cue.
Dining
Word on the street — literally — designates the Heard Freighthouse Food Park as one of the best places to eat in town. The park adjacent to the railroad tracks offers five food trucks, including Grown and Grazed by Chef Desi Bourgeois that serves up organic and locally sourced dishes. Occasionally, there’s live music on site as well.
Downtown Ruston offers a variety of dining options, from Ponchatoula’s South Louisiana fare to Sundown Tavern’s live music. One spot not to be missed is Utility Brewing, the first brewery to open in Ruston where visitors may enjoy craft beers created on-site and exquisite wood-fired pizzas. There’s even a Nutella pizza for dessert. If the weather’s nice, take the meal outside to enjoy the fall breezes on the back deck.
Where to Stay
Hotel chains such as Best Western Plus and Hampton Inn exist along I-20 but Ruston offers short-term rentals on both Airbnb and VRBO. The former Lewis
The first brewery to open in Ruston where visitors may enjoy craft beers created on-site and exquisite woodfired pizzas.
Boutique department store in downtown Ruston, built in the 1920s, has been renovated into the Ruston Lofts, offering suites and a common area on the second floor.
Nearby Lincoln Parish Park has full-service RV campsites, some right on the lake, with hiking trails, lake fishing and paddling opportunities and the elaborate children’s playground that’s accessible for all abilities called Legacy Park. White Oak event venue north of town offers several cozy cottages on-site that are perfect for retreats and family reunions.
For more information on Ruston, visit rustonlincoln.com. ■
The former Lewis Boutique department store in downtown Ruston, built in the 1920s, has been renovated into the Ruston Lofts, offering suites and a common area on the second floor.
Toasting the Season
Spicy bourbon balances the lush fruitiness of blackberry and orange liqueurs for a robust cocktail for holiday soirées
BY LISA LEBLANC-BERRY PHOTO BY ROMERO & ROMERODuring Louisiana’s fall harvest, our anticipation for Thanksgiving accelerates as November’s sweetest satsumas abound at roadside stands, backyards are strewn with the cracked husks of pecans destined for holiday pies and the tantalizing aroma of cinnamon-laced Beauregard yams are bubbling in ovens throughout Acadiana.
The J McDaniel craft cocktail, a signature libation created at 121 Artisan Bistro, incorporates the flavors of the season, heightened by the bittersweet tang of Cointreau blended with Chambord’s luscious blackberry, cognac, vanilla and citrus notes, melding seamlessly with the French orange liqueur.
Chambord’s vanilla notes cozy up beautifully with Wild Turkey as the base spirit. It has a classic bourbon flavor but is set apart from its peers with a peppery finish redolent of orange peel, cloves and cinnamon that dances on the tongue. Fresh lemon juice and simple syrup balance the cocktail’s rich, fruity elements. As the ice melts, a cinnamon stick garnish releases its flavor, adding subtle sweetness to the popular drink.
Cocktail connoisseurs may notice the J McDaniel has striking similarities to the Black Demure created by celebrated bartender Franky Marshall, formerly of NYC’s Dead Rabbit (slated to expand into New Orleans’ French Quarter later this year). Chambord prevails instead of Black Demure’s less complex crème de mûre and its lone garnish.
Smooth and refreshing without being too sweet, strong or cloying, the J McDaniel is an easy, crowd-pleasing drink suitable for imbibers interested in exploring bourbon cocktails.
GETTING SMOKED
Tchoup’s MidCity Smokehouse in Lafayette perfects the art and science of barbecue
BY ERIC CORMIER PHOTOS BY JOSEPH VIDRINEIn order to understand the MidCity Smokehouse ethos, a person needs to have their senses at attention.
From the moment you park in the gravel parking lot, owner Ryan Pécot wants you to feel, smell, see and taste.
Why?
Because he intentionally created a barbecue joint in a town where the smoked meats science has not always been appreciated by the general populous.
“It comes down to the whole package. From parking, to entering through the back deck or front door. Then when you get in, you realize this is a house and you feel warm and comfortable. Soon, you smell the food. Then you see the bar, then you see the tables and chairs like at your grandmother’s house. Every part of this restaurant you have to touch. It is a total experience,” Pécot said.
Pork, pork, pork and more pork. At Tchoup’s, the team has figured out how to prepare and serve bacon burnt ends. The result? Lafayette-area food lovers flock to the restaurant in order to relish succulent pork imbued with smoke flavor.
By the way, after letting the sensory stimulation get your body tingling, it is essential to understand the main card — barbecue — is darn good, too.
It starts with bacon burnt ends.
“They are a cult favorite,” Pécot explained.
Most people who eat at the restaurant for the first time order the Whole Hog plate consisting of brisket (chopped and sliced), pulled pork, chicken, turkey, NuNu’s sausage, ribs and shrimp.
Pécot’s staff serves the Whole Hog on a pan with brown butcher paper.
“Optics, it plays into the optics,” Pécot said.
What is regarded as an unsung hero on the menu is the smoked turkey. Staff will suggest the meat on the quesadillas, wedge salad or even the sandwich.
Brussel sprouts, which Pécot was not a believer in, have also become a fan favorite.
“We did this special with the sprouts pan sautéed after being roasted. My chef thought it was a good idea. I didn’t. The dish just blew up, people love it,” he said.
Pécot, who opened the restaurant during the pandemic, is an experienced retail leasing and development advisor. A self-professed foodie and cocktail connoisseur, Pécot traveled with his family to many locales. Along the way, Pécot was inspired by restaurant concepts he found in out-of-the-way places.
“I love going off the beaten path and finding stuff not on the main drag,” he said.
Over a decade of reflecting on restaurant concepts he observed led Pécot to a barbecue restaurant.
The home MidCity operates out of was built in the mid 1940s near the Oil Center in Lafayette. When Pécot
TRY THIS! 1
Smoked Margarita tequila, fresh lime juice, triple sec, and salted turbinado rim. What is smoked you ask? The agave syrup. You gotta try it!
2
Smoked BBQ Burger
Old fashioned goodness prepared in this way… smoked patty, with a heaping pile of pulled pork that has been tossed in Carolina-style barbecue sauce. To add to the scrumptiousness, the team adds a pinch of coleslaw, and pepper jack cheese on a toasted potato bun. 3
Quesadilla
Ok, most foodies understand the concept of veggies and melted cheese between a toasted tortilla. MidCity provides you the opportunity to add turkey, chicken, pulled pork, brisket, sausage or shrimp from the smoker. Wow!
decided to develop it, he knew what the floor plan would look like, including a customized bar.
Customers who enjoy well prepared cocktails will be impressed by the MidCity bartenders.
At any time the restaurant has 33-plus whiskeys, and over a dozen specialty draft beers.
Three cocktails that stand out are the Smoke Fashioned (Tin Cup bourbon, bitters, smoked simple syrup and muddled orange), Tchoup 75 (Calamity gin, fresh-squeezed lemon juice, smoked simple syrup topped with prosecco) and Nanny’s Lemonade (Tin Cup bourbon, fresh-squeezed lemon juice, smoked simple syrup, rimmed sugar, salt and lemon zest).
MidCity is joint designed with a cause and vision. “Again, it is the whole experience,” he said. “The food, the drink, the smell, the ambience. You gotta get it all!”
The Tchoup’s team prides itself on mixing some of the best drinks in the Hub City. Special attention is paid to cocktail recipes. As a result, a loyal customer following has developed.
BRAISING FOR A HEARTY AUTUMN SUPPER
Render tougher cuts of meat tender and flavorful with this age-old technique
BY MARCELLE BIENVENU PHOTO & STYLING BY EUGENIA UHLBraising meats is a favorite cooking method, especially when heartier fare can be enjoyed in cooler months. It’s a simple process. Meat — pork, veal, beef, poultry or wild game — is seasoned, seared in hot oil and simmered long and slow with liquid (broth, water, wine, beer or a combination) in a vessel with a lid (think Dutch oven) or slow cooker. It’s a great method to cook less expensive, tougher cuts of meat and the result is both tender and flavorful.
One of my favorite dishes to serve this time of year is ossobuco, an Italian dish made of veal shanks braised with olive oil, white wine, stock, tomatoes, garlic and other good stuff. Traditionally, it is garnished with gremolata (or gremolada) which is made of minced parsley, lemon peel and garlic.
Since this is a hearty meal, offer a refreshing salad of fruit. Make it several hours in advance and refrigerate until serving.
STARTER
Strawberry, Kiwi and Orange Salad
1½ cups fresh orange juice
1 ⁄3 cup fresh lemon juice
¼ cup sugar
2 teaspoons arrowroot
2 tablespoons orange liqueur
4 navel oranges
4 kiwis , peeled and cut lengthwise into eighths
5 pints strawberries , hulled and rinsed in cool water
Fresh mint for garnish
1. In a nonreactive saucepan, combine juices and sugar. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer about 10 minutes.
2. Dilute arrowroot in one tablespoon cold water. Stir into syrup and return to a boil. Remove from heat and cool. Stir in orange liqueur. Cover and refrigerate for at least two hours.
3. Peel oranges, remove white pith. Cut into sections. Toss oranges, kiwi and strawberries with dressing. Garnish with mint sprigs. Makes about 8 servings
MAIN DISH Ossobuco
4 pounds veal shanks , cut into 2-inch pieces
¼ cup all-purpose flour salt , cayenne and freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 cups chopped onions
½ cup minced celery
2 medium carrots , sliced into ¾-inch pieces
2 tablespoons minced garlic
1 cup dry white wine
1½ cups stock (equal parts chicken and beef broth)
1½ cups canned crushed tomatoes and juice
¼ cup chopped fresh basil leaves
1 teaspoon dried rosemary
GREMOLATA
2 tablespoons grated lemon rind
¼ cup parsley, minced
1 garlic clove , minced
2. Heat butter and olive oil in heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Brown veal. Transfer to roasting pan. Add water to skillet to deglaze, then add onions, celery, carrots and garlic. Reduce heat to medium. Cook for 5 minutes, or until vegetables are slightly soft. Transfer mixture to roasting pan.
3. Put roasting pan over medium heat. Add wine and cook for 1 minute. Add stock, tomatoes and herbs. Cover roasting pan. Bake for 1½ to 2 hours, or until veal is tender. Remove fat that has risen to surface. To thicken sauce, cook over high heat for 5 to 10 minutes.
4. To prepare gremolata, combine lemon, parsley and garlic. Serve sauce over veal, garnish with gremolata and accompany with risotto or pasta. Makes 4 to 6 servings
ON THE SIDE
Classic Risotto
1½ quarts chicken stock , heated
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion , finely-minced
1½ cups Arborio rice
½ cup dry white wine
3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons heavy cream
1 tablespoon chopped chives
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese , plus extra for garnish truffle oil, for drizzling (optional)
1. Heat chicken broth to simmering in saucepan and leave on very low heat. In a heavy-based, wide saucepan heat olive oil, add onions and cook until golden over medium heat. Add rice and stir to coat each and every grain with oil.
2. Add wine and cook until it evaporates. Add 1 cup of hot stock, stirring with a wooden spoon to mix. Allow liquid to be absorbed, add ½ cup stock, stirring until evaporated. Continue adding broth by ½ cupfuls, stirring after each addition. Continue until rice begins to soften. Last addition of stock should just absorb into rice, leaving it slightly tight.
To get the recipe for Apple Cobbler, visit AcadianaProfile.com
1. Preheat oven to 350 F. Dredge veal in flour and season with salt and peppers.
3. Stirring quickly with a wooden spoon, add butter and cream. Stir in herbs and cheese. Remove from heat and adjust seasoning to taste. Serve topped with freshly grated cheese and drizzle with truffle oil, if using. Makes 4 servings
La cuisine française en Acadiana
Un petit coin de la France en Louisiane française
PAR DAVID CHERAMIE ILLUSTRATION PAR SARA WILLIALa cuisine française de renommée mondiale est presque entièrement le produit d’un homme, Auguste Escoffier, qui, au XIXe siècle, a inventé plusieurs des plats qu’on associe avec ce qu’on appelle la haute cuisine, le système de brigade qui divise les tâches dans la cuisine et, avec César Ritz, le concept d’hôtellerie de luxe. Vous aimez la pêche Melba, la poire belle Hélène ou la crêpe Suzette? Ce sont tous des desserts inventés par Escoffier en honneur des célébrités de l’époque. Vous avez déjà travaillé en tant que chef, sous-chef ou même plongeur dans un restaurant? Merci, M. Escoffier. Et encore aujourd’hui, le mot Ritz est synonyme de la plus haute qualité possible. Ce n’est pas un hasard qu’on dit « ritzy » en anglais pour « faraud ». De notre côté de l’océan, des influences qui ont contribué à la riche tradition culinaire en Acadiana, celle de la France n’est pas, contrairement à ce qu’on peut croire, la plus importante. Certes, le roux qui est littéralement à la base de beaucoup de nos plats est d’origine française. Paradoxalement, c’est Escoffier qui a éliminé la farine de ses recettes en faveur des bouillons et des réductions de viande. Mais pour le reste, les saveurs venues de l’Afrique et des Caraïbes ont largement contribué aux cuisines cadienne et créole. Même le célèbre mirepoix français composé d’oignon, de céleri et de carotte se trouve transformer en Sainte-Trinité louisianaise avec le remplacement de cette dernière par le poivron, ou le piment doux, originaire des Amériques. Heureusement d’ailleurs car j’aurais du mal à digérer un gombo avec des carottes flottant dedans.
Tandis qu’on peut trouver à la NouvelleOrléans plusieurs restaurants qui perpétuent la vieille tradition de la cuisine
française, en Acadiana, le cœur de la Louisiane francophone et francophile, les restaurants authentiquement français sont rares. Jane’s French Cuisine, comme le nom l’indique, à Lafayette et la Truffe Sauvage, en français dans le texte, au Lac Charles offrent des mets français dans un cadre qui n’est pas trop loin de ce qu’on trouverait dans un restaurant de qualité en France.
Dans un petit coin caché parmi des bureaux et des terrains de tennis, la Truffe Sauvage offre une expérience authentique. Chef Mohamed Chettouh a travaillé au Ritz-Carleton à Houston. D’origine algérienne, il a commencé sa carrière à Oran où il est monté les échelons de la brigade. Comme la Louisiane, ancienne colonie française, l’Algérie connaît une forte influence française aussi. Avec son partenaire Arthur Durham, ils ont ouvert la Truffe Sauvage en octobre 1998. Consommé de bœuf, soupe à l’oignon, du veau avec du riz au safran, un vivaneau avec de la viande de crabe et un soufflé de Grand Marnier sont parmi des plats offerts. Jane’s French Cuisine, installé depuis 2019 dans l’ancien magasin de meubles français tenu par la grand-mère du chef cuisinier William Baxter, propose des classiques comme le lapin à la moutarde, la bouillabaisse et le foie gras. Diplômé de l’Institut culinaire français de New York, Baxter est, avec Chettouh, un des héritiers d’Escoffier. ■