IN THE BIZ DINING
A Legacy On The Move With Tujague’s recent move, Mark Latter is continuing to ensure the success of his family’s restaurant. BY POPPY TOOKER
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BIZ NEW ORLEANS
NOVEMBER 2020
I L LU ST R AT I O N BY T O N Y H E A L E Y
A native New Orleanian, Poppy Tooker has spent her life devoted to the cultural essence that food brings to Louisiana, a topic she explores weekly on her NPR-affiliated radio show, Louisiana Eats! From farmers markets to the homes and restaurants where our culinary traditions are revered and renewed, Poppy lends the voice of an insider to interested readers everywhere.
Soon after Claret’s debut, Mark was M A R K L AT T E R WA S J U S T 4 Y E A R S O L D when Tujague’s Restaurant became his approached to consider opening a fine second home and favorite playground. The dining restaurant in the same developbar’s shiny, brass foot rail became his balance ment. Fronting Magazine Street, The Bower beam, when he wasn’t peeking into pots in expands on the Latters’ love of fine, fresh the kitchen or sneaking down the street for flavors, something evident both on the plate beignets at Café du Monde. Eventually, his and in the glass. Sixty-five percent of the dad, Steven Latter, encouraged him to work menu focuses on vegetables grown specially in the kitchen, bus tables, whatever was at Sugar Roots Farms, complimented by needed at the moment. During Thanksgiving house-made pastas and small farm proteins. In 2019, constant issues with Tujague’s and Christmas, the busiest days of the year, Mark staffed the kitchen while his sister, ancient, decaying building combined with Shane, greeted guests on the second floor. It what Mark saw as unfeasible lease renewal terms, caused Tujague’s future to again was a true family affair. After college, Mark pursued a career in be in question. Rather than close, Mark sports, but after three seasons as the Saints’ courageously faced a move, the second in operations manager, he said the hospitality the 164-year-old establishment’s history. industry beckoned. First working as a (In 1914, Tujague’s moved to the corner of server at Bacco, and later as floor manager Madison and Decatur Street from its first at Redfish Grill, Mark returned to Tujague’s, location, three doors down.) The new Tujague’s is located three blocks where he began to learn the wine business. It was something that would become his closer to Canal at 429 Decatur Street. Mark said he sees the move as the only way to true passion. As much as he loved Tujague’s, however, ensure the survival of a New Orleans culiMark longed to be his own boss. He and his nary treasure. “Aside from my father’s legacy, the wife, Candace, began to plan a wine shop of their own. They had signed a lease on a Tujague’s name ties back to the Guichets, the Magazine Street storefront when his father Castets, even Madame Begue.” The most stalwart Tujague’s patron should passed away suddenly on February 18, 2013. feel at home in the new location thanks to “That changed everything,” said Mark. With Tujague’s future uncertain, he said trademark elements like Steven Latter’s he felt compelled to secure his father’s legacy prized collection of miniature liquor bottles and ensure his mother’s care so he doggedly and the bar’s beloved brass foot rail. The pursued financing until he was able to buy restaurant’s three floors encompass balcony out the family and make Tujague’s his own. and courtyard dining. Mark said he is eager Candace stepped in to help and found for the day when the restaurant can host herself at the helm of Bin 428, the wine happy hours, jazz brunches, wine dinners store named in a nod to their son Braden’s and weddings. “Tujague’s can now match the best of any birthday, April 28. The couple’s expansion continued in 2016, as the Latters became classic New Orleans restaurant,” he said. Perhaps most excited of all is Mark’s son, part of Freret Street’s revitalization with the opening of Bar Frances, a wine bistro Braden. Before closing the old restaurant last where 21st century flavors mingled with July, the Latters hosted a weekend of “last adventurous and obscure wines by the glass. suppers.” On the final evening, 8-year-old After being forced to close Bin 428 due to Braden could be found refilling water glasses lease and zoning issues, the Latters found a and delivering plates to tables of surprised home for their dream wine bar, becoming guests, further proof that in some families, the first tenants of Magazine Street’s hospitality is in the blood.n Framework complex. Custom-built to Mark’s design specifications, the new bar, Claret, brought together all the elements he had craved in previous projects. A huge center bar seats 24, while exterior walls roll up, joining the lush, live landscaping outdoors and the indoors. Small plates featuring house-made charcuterie and cheese compli- Catch Poppy Tooker on her radio show, ment a carefully curated wine and beer selec- “Louisiana Eats!” Saturdays at 3 p.m. and tion and seasonal craft cocktails. Mondays at 8 p.m. on WWNO 89.9 FM.
