New Orleans Magazine October 2018 by Renaissance Publishing

october 2018

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october 2018 / VOLUME 52 / NUMBER 11 Editor-in-Chief Errol Laborde Managing Editor Ashley McLellan Art Director Tiffani Reding Amedeo Contributing Writers Mary Lou Eichhorn, Fritz Esker, Kathy Finn, Dawn Ruth Wilson, Brobson Lutz, M.D., Jason Berry, Carolyn Kolb, Chris Rose, Eve Crawford Peyton, Mike Griffith, Liz Scott Monaghan, Lee Cutrone, Dale Curry, Jay Forman, Tim McNally, Robert Peyton, Mirella Cameran Digital Media Editor Kelly Massicot Social Media Assistant Becca Miller Staff Writers Topher Balfer, Kelly Massicot, Melanie Warner Spencer Vice President of Sales Colleen Monaghan Advertising Sales Manager Kate Sanders Henry (504) 830-7216 / Kate@MyNewOrleans.com Senior Account Executive Claire Cummings Account Executives Katie Gray, Meggie Schmidt, Rachel Webber Director of Marketing and Events Cheryl Lemoine Event Coordinator Abbie Dugruise Digital Media Associate Mallary Matherne For event information call (504) 830-7264 Production Designers Emily Andras, Rosa Balaguer, Meghan Rooney Special Projects Art Director Molly Tullier Traffic Manager Topher Balfer Chief Executive Officer Todd Matherne President Alan Campell Executive Vice President Errol Laborde Distribution Manager John Holzer Administrative Assistant Mallary Matherne Subscriptions Manager Brittanie Bryant For subscription information call (504) 828-1380 WYES DIAL 12 STAFF (504) 486-5511 Executive Editor Aislinn Hinyup Associate Editor Robin Cooper Art Director Jenny Hronek NEW ORLEANS MAGAZINE Printed in USA A Publication of Renaissance Publishing 110 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005 MyNewOrleans.com

New Orleans Magazine (ISSN 0897 8174) is published monthly by Renaissance Publishing, LLC., 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005; (504) 828-1380. Subscription rates: one year $19.95; Mexico, South America and Canada $48; Europe, Asia and Australia $75. An associate subscription to New Orleans Magazine is available by a contribution of $40 or more to WYES-TV/Channel 12, $10.00 of which is used to offset the cost of publication. Also available electronically, on CD-ROM and on-line. Periodicals postage paid at Metairie, LA, and additional entry offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to New Orleans Magazine, 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005. Copyright 2018 New Orleans Magazine. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the consent of the publisher. The trademark New Orleans and New Orleans Magazine are registered. New Orleans Magazine is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts, photos and artwork even if accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. The opinions expressed in New Orleans Magazine are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the view of the magazine managers or owners.

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Contents Features

Local Color

Pearl River

Chris Rose

Coming Unstrung 50

Spontaneous Altars 36

Fashion

Modine Gunch

Fall Finds for Cool Weather 56

Waxing Poetic 38

Doc Hawley

Joie d’Eve

The Captain at the Calliope 62

Sister Struggles 40

In Tune In the Groove 42

Jazz Life Louis’ Muse 44

Home In Like Flynn 46

The Menu Table Talk Longway Tavern 76

Restaurant Insider News from the Kitchens 78

Food All Treat, No Trick 80

Last Call Aperol Spritz 82

Dining Guide Plus Restaurant Spotlights 84

The Beat

In Every Issue Inside Down the Rivers 16

Marquee

Speaking Out

Entertainment calendar 26

Editorial, plus a Mike Luckovich cartoon 20

Persona Benjamin Watson 28

Julia Street

Biz MSY Goes First Class 30

Questions and Answers About Our City 22

Education

Streetcar

Classic Instrucion 32

A Russian Landing 128

on the cover Pearl River photo by Denny Culbert

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DIAL 12, D1 How does the state solve the teacher shortage and create incentives to education careers? Learn more in a special WYES-TV live Community Forum hosted by WYES Community Projects Producer Marcia Kavanaugh. Watch it Thursday, October 25 at 7:00 p.m. LIVE on WYES-TV/ Channel 12 and online at wyes.org.

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inside

Down the Rivers

y 1832, the Red River in upstate Louisiana was so clogged with dead wood, miscellaneous logs and snags that it, along with many other American rivers, was no longer navigable. Tellingly, the river was even referred to as “the Great Raft.” The U.S. Secretary of War ordered the Superintendent of Western River Improvements to do something about it. Thus began a seven-year project utilizing a special “snag boat,” designed by the Superintendent, to clear the river. With the boat’s high-powered ability to push away loads of wood, a 150 mile stretch of the river was cleared. Because rivers served as America’s highways there could be commerce again. The spot where the Great Raft was the most clogged was eventually named after the Superintendent. He was Henry Shreve. A city would grow there. It would be called Shreveport. Louisiana is best known for its biggest and most important river, the Mississippi, but the state is also blessed with several smaller, but historically significant rivers that shaped cultures and political boundaries. To the west, the Sabine River was once the subject of a boundary dispute between the United States and Spain. As a compromise the two countries agreed to establish neutral zones on each side of the river with no presence from their troops. What became badlands would, through a later treaty, become the border between Louisiana and Texas. Near the town of Simmesport in Pointe Coupee Parish, branches of the Red River and the Mississippi form the Atchafalaya, which begins its ramble toward Morgan City and the Gulf of Mexico, and forms one of the nation’s most important estuary systems. At 605 miles long, the Ouachita, which runs through Arkansas and north central Louisiana, is the 25th 16

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longest river in the country. Its region was once an epicenter of early American Indian populations, including Choctaw and Chickasaw groups. Though later destroyed to build a bridge, the largest Indian mounds ever discovered in North America were along the banks of that river. There are other streams, including some rivers that are no longer rivers at all. They are the “ox-bow lakes,” which were once curves in rivers that were gradually cut off by shifts in flow. False River in New Roads is an example; another is Cane River Lake at Natchitoches. Our cover story is about the Pearl River, which forms part of the boundary between Mississippi and Louisiana. It connects Jackson, Mississippi to the north with Lake Borgne and the Rigolets to the south. It is an important estuary and habitat for wildlife, but, as happens often with streams, there are issues, this time having to do with Jackson’s growth. To many New Orleanians, the Pearl is what you cross on I-10 to and from the coast. The river faces serious challenges. Controversies can be like logs in a river. Sometimes they need to be cleared so that the flow can continue.

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meet the sales staff

Kate Sanders Henry Sales Manager (504) 830-7216 Kate@myneworleans.com

Claire Cummings Senior Account Executive (504) 830-7250 Claire@myneworleans.com

Rachel Webber Account Executive (504) 830-7249 Rachel@MyNewOrleans.com

Meggie Schmidt Account Executive (504) 830-7220 Meggie@myneworleans.com

Katie Gray Account Executive 504-830-7263 Katie@MyNewOrleans.com

Colleen Monaghan Vice President of Sales (504) 830-7215 Colleen@myneworleans.com 18

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speaking out

Could This Be the Season? Pelicans back on court

e remember the moment, January 26, 2017. After 16 years, New Orleans’ NBA franchise had proved that it could win, not only on the court, but also in the hearts of fans. With only 15 seconds left in a game against the Houston Rockets, who had the league’s best record, the Pelicans were about to clinch a big win. Up 113 to 109 Demarcus “Boogie” Cousins could add icing to the Pelican’s score as he took a foul shot. The shot bounced off the rim, no big deal. As the clock ticked, Cousins ran to the sideline where the ball 20

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was heading and swatted it back to the court. Victory was only a few seconds away, but then something went wrong. While the rest of the players ran down the court Cousins stayed behind and then fell to the floor. The scene was tense as play stopped. Players, including former local favorite Chris Paul, now wearing a Rockets uniform, looked on. (Ironically the ball that Cousins swatted wound up in Paul’s possession though he missed the ensuing jump shot.) As Cousins grabbed for his leg the situation was bleak. At the moment of the Pelicans’

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arrival as a serious performance, a star player was in pain from what appeared to be, and was, one of the game’s worst injuries, a torn Achilles tendon. Though still blessed by the presence of superstar Anthony Davis (with whom Cousins made an awesome scoring combo) the playoff hopes were suddenly diminished. (Only two weeks earlier, New Orleans fans had suffered another crushing disappointment, when a desperate touchdown completion by the Minnesota Viking knocked the Saints from a win that would have put them one game from the

Super Bowl.) Now this. In the first few games after Cousins’ injury, the team struggled and seemed to be moving in reverse. However, a few deft player deals (including acquiring three point specialist Nikola Mirotić from the Chicago Bulls) and the team was winning again and qualified for the playoffs. In one of the franchise’s best moments, the Pelicans swept the Portland Trailblazers in the first round of the playoffs before having to face the era’s best teams, and the eventual champion, the Golden State Warriors. The Pelicans lost in five, but considering the circumstances it was a great season. Teams are at their most endearing when they provide not only performance on the field but also storylines around which the fans can live the drama. Last season provided plenty of that. This season will mark the 17th year since the former Charlotte Hornets moved here. The franchise’s existence here has been rocky, including evacuating to Oklahoma City after hurricane Katrina. There have been stars, but they always seemed to be looking to be somewhere else. Davis may be the franchise’s first long term dominator. It has been said that New Orleans is a football town, but that is true of most cities during football season. There is still plenty time, and mental capacity, to worship another winner. We are optimistic about what the season promises. (The home opener is October 19.) There have been some strange developments, most notably Boogie Cousins retuning, but in a Warriors uniform. There is no doubt that the 2018-19 edition of the New Orleans Pelicans will be very good. We just need luck to be that way too.•

AN ORIGINAL ©MIKE LUCKOVICH CARTOON FOR NEW ORLEANS MAGAZINE

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julia street

with poydras the parrot

You are remembering Keswany’s Indian Cuisine, located in what was then the Uptown Square shopping center at 200 Broadway. The upscale restaurant operated from 1985 to 1988 and occupied a third-level space above Godchaux’s department store and was owned by Har Keswani, who had previously operated Taj Mahal on Causeway Boulevard.

Dear Julia, I am reading Dave Fulmer‘s latest novel “Eclipse Alley” and was wondering if any part of that street still exists? I don’t see it listed on a map but they is an unnamed small street that would be close to where the street is depicted in the novel (Liberty and St. Louis) where Treme Street is now. Thank you, Jon Lubitz (New Orleans)

Dear Julia and Poydras, City of Lafayette was established, labels Why are a series of streets in the Garden the street as Washington. District named First Street through Ninth The exact date or circumstances under Street? They start after Jackson and Philip. which the street name changed from Fifth to Washington Avenue appears Washington may be impossible to be the equivalent of Fifth to determine. Subdivision and Plan of the City of Street. I assume these streets street dedication regulations, Lafayette (detail were named when this area such as those used in present showing Washington/ was a separate entity, then day New Orleans, were not Fifth Street) incorporated later into New the norm in the 19th century; Orleans. Thanks, Mary L. Pretz-Lawson sometimes an early map or plat may be (New Orleans) the only written evidence that a particular street name was planned or used. In the early 1830s, when Jefferson Parish was in its infancy, the area in question was Faubourg Livaudais, which included Dear Julia, sequentially numbered streets. The same In the mid-1980s, my wife and I had area soon formed much of the City of an incredible meal at an elegant Indian Lafayette, which existed from 1833 to restaurant located in a shopping mall 1852, when it was annexed to the City of somewhere around the Riverbend. I have New Orleans. An undated plan of the City been widowed many years but I still have of Lafayette is the sole published source I fond recollection of the gracious host and have found which clearly shows the street his wonderful muligatawny soup. Does between Fourth and Sixth Streets was any of this ring a bell with you? Jackson once known as Fifth Street. The Zimpel Miller (Alexandria) Map of March 1834, drawn soon after the 22

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Eclipse Alley was a narrow passage immediately behind St. Louis Cemetery No. I. It extended from Marais to and N. Liberty (now Treme) and divided the block between Conti and St. Louis. The passageway was eradicated in the early 1930s to make way for part of the Iberville Housing Development. For most of the second half of the 19th century, the passage was called Sturcken’s Alley in honor of H. F. “Papa” Sturcken, who lived nearby and operated the Marais Street Steam Brewery at Marais and Conti. A native of Hanover, Sturcken had been in New Orleans since the 1830s. A former city assessor, he was active in numerous benevolent associations. H. F. “Papa” Sturcken died in 1887 at the age of 71. The area around Sturcken’s Alley became progressively rougher in the years following Strucken’s death as the neighborhood was earmarked to become a legalized prostitution zone. In 1901, Sturcken’s grandchildren petitioned the city to change the alley’s name because the neighborhood had ceased being respectable. Councilmen disagreed about whether the alley should be renamed Eclipse or Story, but Eclipse was quickly ratified as the new name.

Have a question for julia? Send your question to: Julia Street, c/o New Orleans Magazine, 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005 or email: Errol@MyNewOrleans.com. artwork courtesty of the historic new orleans collection

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The Beat MARQUEE . PERSONA . BIZ . EDUCATION . CHRONICLES

greg miles photo

Saints Tight End Benjamin Watson

THE beat . marquee

October Our top picks for this month’s events By fritz esker

Beignet Fest

Carnaval Latino

New Orleans Film Festival

Oktoberfest NOLA

New Orleans’ signature sweet treat has its own festival on October 6 at the Festival Grounds in City Park. More than 30 beignet dishes from some of New Orleans’ finest restaurants will be served, along with other culinary delights, a kids’ village, and live music from bands including the Imagination Movers. BeignetFest.com.

Dubbed “A Celebration of the Americas,” Carnaval Latino celebrates Latin food, music, and culture with a parade from the Marigny to Generations Hall, where the festivities will continue with music, food and beverages, and more. The festival takes place from October 13-15. CarnavaLatiNOLA.com.

From October 17-25 at theaters across the city, the event once dubbed “Cannes on the Mississippi” returns to give New Orleanians a taste of both local and international cinema. The full lineup is not known as of press time, but last year’s festival included future Oscar winners like Call Me By Your Name; I, Tonya and Darkest Hour. NewOrleansFilmSociety.org.

On Fridays and Saturdays from October 5-20, Oktoberfest returns to New Orleans in its new digs at the Deutsches Haus on Moss Street along Bayou St. John. Try over 20 different German beers, 20 different schnapps and 9 wines. There will also be German meats, cheeses, desserts and oompah music. OktoberfestNOLA.com.

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calendar Events, Exhibits & Performances Sept. 26-Oct. 7: Aladdin, Saenger Theater. SaengerNOLA.com.

Oct. 18: Lord of the Dance: Dangerous Games, Saenger Theater. SaengerNOLA.com.

Oct. 3: The Miseducation of Lauryn Hill 20th Anniversary Tour, UNO Lakefront Arena. arena.uno.edu.

Oct. 19: Paw Patrol Live!: Race to the Rescue, UNO Lakefront Arena. arena.uno.edu.

Oct. 3-21: A Doll’s House

Part 2, Southern Rep Theatre. SouthernRep.com. Oct. 5: Art for Art’s Sake,

Magazine Street & Warehouse District. MagazineStreet.com. Oct. 5-7: Treme Fall Fest, St. Augustine Church. FaubourgTreme.wixsite.com/ TremeFest. Oct. 10: Fall Out Boy - “Mania Tour”, Smoothie King Center. SmoothieKingCenter.com.

Oct. 19: Soiree and Street Party, Southern Food & Beverage Museum. natfab.org. Oct. 19: Praise Fest, Bayou St. John. PraiseFestNOLA.com. Oct. 20: Trombone Shorty’s “Hometown Threauxdown”, Champions Square. Champions-Square.com. Oct. 20: NOLA Mac ’N’ Cheese Fest, Armstrong Park. NOLAMacNCheeseFest.com. Oct. 20: Krewe of Boo, French Quarter. KreweOfBoo.com.

Oct. 12: MercyMe’s “The 1magine Nation Tour”, Smoothie King Center. SmoothieKingCenter.com.

Oct. 20-21: Country Smooth Festival, NOLA Motorsports Park. CountrySmoothFest.com.

Oct. 12: Rupaul’s Drag Race Werq the World, The Joy Theater. TheJoyTheater.com.

Oct. 20: Hannibal Burress, Saenger Theater. SaengerNOLA.com.

Oct. 12: Ron White, Saenger Theater. SaengerNOLA.com.

Oct. 20: Dance Theater of Harlem, Mahalia Jackson Theater. MahaliaJacksonTheater.com.

Oct. 12-14: Gentilly Fest, Pontchartrain Park Playground. GentillyFest.com. Oct. 12-14: World War II Air, Sea, and Land Festival, New Orleans Lakefront Airport. AirSeaLandFest.com. Oct. 12-14: Crescent City Blues and BBQ Festival, Lafayette Square Park. JazzAndHeritage.org/Blues-Fest. Oct. 15: The Breeders, Civic Theater. CivicNOLA.com. Oct. 18: Kevin Hart - “The

Irresponsible Tour”, Smoothie King Center. SmoothieKingCenter.com.

Oct. 23: Alice in Chains, Saenger Theater. SaengerNOLA.com. Oct. 24: Maxwell, Saenger Theater. SaengerNOLA.com. Oct. 26-28: Voodoo Music + Arts Experience, City Park. VoodooFestival.com. Oct. 30: Nicki Minaj & Future “Nickihndrxx Tour”, Smoothie King Center. SmoothieKingCenter.com. Oct. 30-Nov. 4: School of Rock, Saenger Theater. SaengerNOLA.com. Oct. 31: Ed Sheeran, Mercedes-Benz Superdome. MBSuperdome.com. m y ne w orleans . com

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THE beat . persona

in Iraq and Pakistan; he hosts “The Big BENefit” each year, an event that provides holiday gift cards to local families in need; is active in the International Justice Mission, which works to end human trafficking; and has published two books, “Under Our Skin: Getting Real on Race,” which tackles social justice, bias, and racial relations, and “The New Dad’s Playbook,” which provides his unique take on fatherhood. Watson took some time to answer New Orleans Magazine’s get-to-know-you inquiries, but, for us, one question remains: is there anything this Saint can’t do?

Benjamin Watson Saints Tight End by Ashley McLellan

ith 15 years of experience with the NFL, Saints tight end Benjamin Watson is a veteran player who takes his leadership job seriously. A Saint from 2013 to 2015, he returns to the team after spending two years with the Baltimore Ravens,

and is ready to hit the ground running. While Watson is passionate about his job on the field, he is equally, perhaps even more so, passionate about his volunteer activities off the field. He has traveled with the USO to visit troops

Q: How old were you when you started playing football? When I was a kid we used to play football in the street with tackling in the sideline (where there was a strip of grass). I played one year of youth football and my dad was my coach. Then I didn’t play organized football again until I was 14 in 9th grade. Q: What does it mean to you to be back in New Orleans with the Saints? I’m thankful for another year to play in the NFL. It has been a long journey with many unexpected twists and turns. I’ve learned to cherish each year and embrace the challenges they bring. We enjoyed being a part of this city while we were here previously and it has been great to reconnect and rekindle those relationships. The Saints are a different team in many ways than the last time but there are a few familiar faces. This will be an exciting year.

greg miles photo

Q: Off the field, what does volun- Q: How do you stay motivated as a teering with your organization One player during the football season? More mean for you? I believe that As much as I have enjoyed football each of us has the ability to be a throughout my life it is definitely blessing to someone else in some a grind. Sunday’s are only the tip way. When we take our time talent of the iceberg. There are times or treasure to do that we make when the body or the mind (or an investment not only in that both) struggles to continue. I stay individual’s life, but motivated because for all of us football is not in the lives of countless others that will a hobby, it is our job. be impacted through It is how we provide True Confession: them. We can always for our families, but I’m scared of heights spread love and hope most importantly it to “One More” soul. is how we glorify the We consider it a privilege and God who has given us the opporresponsibility to be involved in tunity to play. Taking the focus off the communities where God has of me and thinking about these placed us and we hope to leave things gives me proper perspective a legacy of kindness that extends and the will to give my very best long after we are gone. whether I feel like it or not. Q: What was the motivation behind Q: Is there anyone that has inspired writing your book “Under Our or motivated you in life and/or on Skin?” “Under Our Skin” was an the field? My father has always extension of a Facebook post I been my hero. Growing up I wrote after witnessing the killing of wanted to be like him. Even today Michael Brown by a police officer he is the standard for manhood in Ferguson, Missouri in 2014. I in my life and the one I seek to wrote about the many emotions emulate. I was feeling as I witnessed the events and reactions unfold. I Q: What has been your favorite believe we were all affected in moment as a player? My favorite some way. After an overwhelming moment as a player dates back response to the post from people of to 2002 when we, the Georgia all ethnicities and economic back- Bulldogs, won the SEC championgrounds, I started to unpack and ship for the first time in 20 years. address our nation’s continuing It was a special time and a team struggle with race and all of its I’ll never forget. implications. Since our birth as a nation, race has been a defining factor in so many facets of life. And while relations have improved we still have more victories to claim, mountains to climb and conversations to have. Thankfully there are many people who are willing to At a Glance engage, listen and do this work together. I believe we are one blood Age: 37 Born/Raised: Norfolk, Va and we ought to treat each other Education (college): University of with this truth in mind. Through Georgia (Duke as a freshman) “Under Our Skin” I wanted to give Favorite movie(s): Rudy, Glory, an honest assessment of the racial Black Panther Favorite music: climate in America, as well as a Gospel Favorite food: Gumbo challenge for all of us to engage (made by Kirsten Watson) Hobby: in the conversations and actions Writing Favorite vacation spot: Anywhere as a family needed to improve it.

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THE beat . biz

MSY Goes First Class  New Orleans air travel gets big-ticket upgrade By Kathy Finn

n just a few months, one of the biggest construction projects in New Orleans’ history will be ready for its close-up. The new Louis Armstrong New Orleans International Airport is slated to open for business in February, whereupon local travelers will get to see for themselves the results of a nearly $1 billion investment that created a completely new terminal on the north side of the existing airport campus. The project has been a long time coming, as the city made do over many years with upgrades and remakes of old facilities within the original airport footprint. But early indications are that the new terminal will not disappoint. Its features include: • An arc-shaped terminal that encompasses 650,000 square feet, with a giant skylight in the main arrivals hall; 30

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• Two connected concourses with 35 gates and a single, consolidated security checkpoint; • About 80,000 square feet of retail space, most of which will be located down the center of each concourse, allowing for maximum use of windows and views of all the gates; • A concessions lineup that mixes local restaurants (including Leah’s Kitchen, Ye Olde College Inn, Angelo Brocato’s, MoPho, Emeril’s, Munch Factory and Mondo) with national brand names (such as Chick-Fil-A, Shake Shack, Chili’s, and Panda Express). • A new 2,100-space parking garage and surface lots, with the old garage remaining in place to serve long-term parking needs; • Shuttle service between the new airport and the existing rental car facility. The new airport, which

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completely replaces the old facility, aims to better accommodate rising passenger numbers now and well into the future. Airport statistics show that total passenger counts topped 12 million last year, rising nearly 8 percent over the 2016 figure. Through the first half of 2018, passenger totals were up about 11 percent from the count a year earlier. Total aircraft operations are also on an upward trend, as airlines have expanded their flight schedules, including adding more nonstop service from New Orleans. And the Federal Aviation Administration predicts a continued increase in air traffic through the next two decades. Aviation experts have warned for years that the need for improved air travel facilities is nearing a crisis point. “America’s airports have significant infrastructure

needs that must be addressed in order to remain competitive and support our economy,” Airports Council International President Kevin Burke said in releasing a comprehensive survey of airport needs last year. Development of the new local airport tracks a trend that has been playing out around the country. Capital investments approaching $100 billion have begun in 50 U.S. airports, including New York’s Laguardia, Denver International and San Francisco International. Jeff Davis, a senior fellow with the Washington, D.C., research institute Eno Center for Transportation, said that cities such as New Orleans that are seeing increased demand from tourism-related travel, are scrambling to find ways to expand capacity at their airports. But he added that development of a whole new airport, such as that in New Orleans, is unusual due to the high cost. To help fund the construction, New Orleans has turned to the usual sources, including fees paid by airlines and grants from funding pools available from the FAA. The bulk of the funding is coming from revenue bonds that will be paid off from future Passenger Facility Charges paid by travelers. While this is a common method of funding airport construction, Davis sais the term of the indebtedness – some of the local bonds extend through 2043 – is unusual. The only other big U.S. airport that has borrowed against PFC revenue that far into the future is Sea-Tac in Seattle, he said. •

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THE beat . education

rom the depths of hell, Caitlin Meehan-Draper found her life’s calling. A teacher’s discussion of the nine circles of hell created in an epic poem by Dante Alighieri so fascinated a young Meehan-Draper that she was transformed. “I’m hooked,” she recalled. “I’m going to read books forever.” Now, after six years of teaching New Orleans eighth graders the joys of Shakespeare and other important writers, the state has recognized her as a finalist for Louisiana’s 2019 teacher of the year award. The ultimate prize went to a teacher in Bossier Parish, but Meehan-Draper feels honored just the same. “Just to get nominated is – wow, it’s very validating,” she said. After obtaining a bachelor’s degree in literature and completing a Teach for America stint in Alabama, Meehan-Draper’s love of the written word brought her to New Orleans and Samuel J. Green Charter School. Green nominated her for the state teacher of the year award last year, but that application didn’t yield a nod. This academic year, the state asked her to resubmit because she had come so close to being a semi-finalist the first time around. At the time, she thought “this will never happen to me. This is reserved for a certain echelon.” But it did happen. She gives Green charter school credit for

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Classic Instruction Teacher of the Year finalist begins a new year and new chapter of teaching By Dawn Ruth Wilson

the recognition. She learned her craft at Green, she said, a school that welcomed her with warmth in 2012 when she first arrived in New Orleans. She also furthered her own learning by getting a master’s degree in English and teaching at the University of New Orleans. Impressive scores earned by Meehan-Draper’s students on state achievement tests fueled

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the recognition, an outcome she believes reflects her own discovery of Dante and Yann Martel’s “Life of Pi,” when she was an eighth-grader herself. Martel’s 2001 novel about a teenage boy claiming to have survived months on a life boat with a tiger “shifted the way I saw the world,” she said. “I saw it in a broader, more beautiful way.” Although she always wanted to be a scholar, teaching teenagers to

enjoy reading became a priority. That first-year teaching high school students in Alabama taught her what not to do, she said. One of her favorite books to teach is “Night,” an autobiographical account of Elie Wiesel’s teenage experience in a Nazi concentration camp. The first teaching attempt flopped. “A kid threw the book in the trash right in front of me,” she said. “I was devastated.” Reflection on the incident led to teaching style changes. She developed techniques that encourage students to “discover” the wonders of the text themselves. Now the presentation includes “a lot of conversation” and “a lot of movement,” she said. Discussion of Shakespeare’s “Romeo and Juliet,” for example, includes tackling questions such as: “Are Romeo and Juliet really in love?” Students write an answer and then find a partner for discussion. About half believe Romeo and Juliet are not really in love, she said. Some peg Romeo as a “player.” Meehan-Draper left classroom teaching recently to develop curriculum at Bricolage Middle School, located on Esplanade Avenue. Literature still dominates her days, though. “I get to talk about books all day,” she said. “I am so lucky.” •

cheryl gerber photo

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Local Color CHRIS ROSE . MODINE GUNCH . JOIE Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;EVE . IN TUNE . JAZZ LIFE . HOME

Rachel Kaplan photo

Martin Garrix performs at voodoo music + arts experience

LOCAL COLOR . CHRIS ROSE

Spontaneous Altars A candle store and so much more By Chris Rose

y now, it’s a familiar sight at the location of a tragedy or some other form of communal loss: The spontaneous altar. Candles, tokens, potions, holy cards, incense and other spiritual, ecclesiastical -and often supernatural -- ephemera to express collective mourning or sorrow. We’ve all seen these sidewalk memorials -- if not in person, certainly in news coverage: Tranquil, solemn, heartfelt and often colorful and uplifting tributes dedicated to the memory of celebrities who died unexpectedly or victims of senseless violence or simply to commemorate the closure of a beloved institution. So it was bittersweet, and perhaps fittingly ironic, that such a shrine materialized, suddenly and surprisingly, in the final dog days of summer in front of a modest, unimposing storefront at the corner of Broad and St. Ann. It’s a street corner dominated by the clubhouse, business offices and retail store of the Zulu Social Aid & Pleasure Club, whose better known activities -- charitable outreach, parades, buck jumping and general revelry and celebration of New 36

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Orleans street life -- are a stark contrast to what went went on at 801 N. Broad, the location of the memorial: F&F Botanica Spiritual Supply. On a stretch of road better known for second lines, wig shops, soul food, gas stations and bail bond shops, F&F was an off-the-radar and otherworldly respite from the day to day hustle of the city -- and the material world. Therein lies the irony of the recent display at its front door: From a retail space the size of a typical Starbucks, F&F peddled candles, tokens, potions, holy cards, incense and other spiritual, ecclesiastical -and often supernatural -- ephemera. The stuff of memorials, altars, tributes and well wishes. If you’re a local, it’s likely that you either LOVED this place, or you’ve never heard of it until now. It was what would be called in the commercial milieu, a specialty boutique, to be sure. To walk into F&F was to enter a quiet, softly lit cathedral of alchemy and enchantment where peace, romance, happiness, success, fortune and divinations of the

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mystical realm were packaged into wax candles, aerosol sprays, bath gels and floor wash and sold to mere mortals at bargain basement prices. Call it retail salvation. Shoe Town for the soul. Botanica, as the shop was generally known peddled wares of a decidedly curious lot: Lucky # 13 candles, Saint Expedite medallions, “Keep Away Evil” air fresheners, Dr. David’s Famous Road Opener Spray and all manner of love potions, #1 through 9 and beyond. I’m not making this up. That’s what Botanica sold. Hope, redemption and eternal love, at about $3.99 a pop. The store was cramped and crowded with candles for any purpose and desire. Candles for the saints, for the astrological calendar, for grief, luck and good health. Bottles filled with miracles. Struggling with unrequited love? There’s a floor wax for that. Mix 1 part Love Stay solution with 4 parts water, apply liberally to wood, tile or linoleum floors and invite the target of your ardor to your home and once he or she crosses the threshold -- bingo!

On a losing streak and the Lions Club bingo night? There’s a candle for that, too. Or…..there was. F&F shut down suddenly at the end of August, due to a sudden string of deaths in the Figueroa family, who operated the shop since its opening in 1983. It was stunning news to the shop’s remarkably diverse and fiercely loyal clientele of true believers, card readers, bone rollers, gift shoppers, culture vultures, hipsters, passersby looking for a better day and … my family. My kids, they loved this place. Its exotic smells and spell-casting silence, its magic and mystery. Its promise of possibility. You can’t find that at the mall. They loved to browse the shelves, picking out candles that celebrated their birth signs, their favorite saints, their favorite colors and -- in the case of one of whom shall not be named -- candles to improve their grades at school. Hey, whatever works, right? Burning a candle through the night while you sleep beats the hell out of cramming for an exam, right? Hence, the memorial outside Botanica. A memorial comprised mostly of the products sold inside Botanica. A karmic tribute, to be sure. And the sign of a sad passing, another on the ever-growing and soul-crushing list of our city’s Ain’t Dere No Mores. “Thank you for all the help and hope you provided when we needed it the most,” said an anonymous handwritten note outside the store amid the collection of tributes. “You will be missed.” True Dat. In this city of tough luck, hard love and true romance; of lucky breaks and losing streaks; where the triumph of the human spirit renders all hope found -we have all lost another friend. A guardian angel. A crazy little shop on Broad Street unlike any other. • Jason Raish Illustration

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LOCAL COLOR . modine gunch

Waxing Poetic Sometimes less is not more By Modine Gunch

“S

ooooo,” my sister-in-law Gloriosa announces, “I just had a BIG misunderstanding at my waxing appointment. I wanted a bikini-line wax for my water aerobics class. Someone wrote down “Brazilian wax”— bald as Elmer Fudd— and I didn’t find out until too late. It’s Halloween, and we are at the Sloth Lounge in the Quarter. She is dressed like Marilyn Monroe, but her voice is NOT low and whispery. The room has suddenly gone quiet. “It was awful. I had to apologize for yelling and scaring people in the waiting room. The cosmetologist had done just one side, so I told her to even it out and leave the front. I left without looking down. I don’t know what ended up happening down there.” And now the Sloth Lounge is dead silent. I got to explain.

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Other places, Halloween means little kids in cute costumes looking for candy treats. In the Quarter, it means grown-ups looking for a different kind of treat. They want to look sexy, but it’s Halloween, so they also want gory: cheerleaders with tiny skirts, miles of cleavage, and fake blood everywhere; guys flashing their pecs in tank tops with a fake knife handle sticking out their eyeball. Like that. And they forget how they look, and try to chat with you about the upcoming election or something. It’s distracting. On Halloween, the Sloth Lounge is like the bar scene in Star Wars, New Orleans style: a nun with a beard, a bloody bride, The Scream, Winnie-the-Pooh with a knife in his back, all lined up sociably sipping drinks. I am wearing my Wonder Woman outfit, with my top a little augmented, but no hatchet in my head or nothing.

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That’s when Gloriosa waltzed in, ready to prove to herself she is still young and hot. She don’t need to prove it to anybody else. Gloriosa got every last good-looking gene in the Gunch family. Huge eyes, high cheekbones, pouty lips, perfect skin, enormous bosom. She will NEVER be asked to be anybody’s bridesmaid. She makes a perfect Marilyn Monroe, in a blonde wig, a low-cut white dress with a billowy skirt, and her own boobs. Except she got a voice like a trumpet. After her little speech, I see eyes bugging out from behind all those masks up and down the bar, and I grab her elbow and zip her upstairs to the balcony. My gentleman friend Lust, who owns the Sloth, is there along with a mummy, a skeleton with a rubber snake in its nose, and my mother-in-law, Ms. Larda, in

a witch hat. We got a great view of the crowd below, milling and leering and taking selfies. Immediately Gloriosa repeats the whole Brazilian wax story to the balcony group, which also goes silent. Then Ms. Larda says —she sounds more like a French horn than a trumpet— “Well, I don’t wax nothing but my kitchen floor, and I use Flo-Glo Wax, not Brazilian.” She gets quiet for a minute. I know she is thinking things she is embarrassed to be thinking. She says, “Are Catholics even allowed to do this? What does the pope say?” I don’t know if the pope has ever thought about waxing. I hope not. She goes on, “Is it like mustache wax? Couldn’t you just use hair spray? Extra hold?” Immediately, the mummy walks into the balcony table and knocks over the big umbrella in the middle of it. The umbrella teeters over the balcony railing, and Gloriosa leaps to catch it. A breeze catches her skirt as she bends over the railing, and we all get a unexpected view. “Gloriosa! Never wear underpants you caught off a Carnival float,” Ms.Larda says. Then she and me jump up to help, and we wrestle this umbrella back onto the balcony. I realize not one of the men pitched in to help. Actually, I don’t think any of them have blinked yet. Later on, I ask Lust what he saw. He says, “What? Nothing! Innocent of all charges. I didn’t even know the Bacchus parade threw purple-green-and-gold panties.” He should of remained silent. •

LORI OSIECKI ILLUSTRATION

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LOCAL COLOR . JOIE D’EVE

Sister Struggles The pain and joy – and OMG, the bickering – of sisterhood By Eve Crawford Peyton

f, in the course of “get to know you” questions, I tell you I’m an only child – which is what I usually say – and you subsequently go on to get to know me better, you will probably be thrown for a loop when I refer to my late brother and sister in casual conversation. The thing is that “both my siblings are dead” is kind of small talk poison, a cocktail party conversation killer. So I don’t typically bring it up. The other thing is that I am in many ways legitimately an only child – I am my mother’s only child, and my siblings were 20+ years older. We were never raised together, and although I loved both my brother and my sister and miss them, they weren’t my peers or my friends in any significant way. I don’t want to say my childhood was lonely without siblings because it wasn’t particularly. I had friends in my neighborhood, and we did 40

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the typical childhood things: biking back and forth between houses, playing video games, climbing fences, watching TV, spraying each other with cheap sampler perfume at K&B, roller-skating through the mausoleum where the floors were smoother than the broken sidewalks. I was also very close to my mom – she and I watched movies and went to plays and scoured yard sales for weird stuff and took random road trips to nowhere and cooked and read books to each other. Sure, Christmas Day could be kind of depressing when it would just be me and my mom and I’d get a new game that required four players, but overall, I didn’t hate being an only child. I still don’t. I do sometimes long for a big, sprawling family, for nieces and nephews, for family reunions with matching T-shirts and enthusiastic games of Frisbee

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– but as much as I hate the phrase would be better: just clobber each “it is what it is,” some things just other and move on. But then I’ll are what they are, and this is one come upon them cuddling and of them. whispering and giggling, and I Siblings remain a mystery to feel like maybe they’ll be OK. me, though, and I have trouble “It’s just sibling rivalry,” I understanding how my daughters overheard Ruby whispering can be screaming at each other tearfully to Georgia Sunday night one minute and snuggling up after a particularly long day of together the literal next minute. feuding. “I never mean to be mean “I gave you a playmate!” I yell to you; I love you so much. It’s just at them sometimes. “I made an that I’m the big sister, so it’s my entire other human for you to job to make you do stuff for me.” love! You’re lucky to have each And Georgia handed her a other! GET ALONG!” tissue, waited while she blew her It doesn’t work. nose, and then threw Georgia worships Ruby it away for her. but also resents her for Excerpted from Eve Then they hugged Crawford Peyton’s being older. Ruby is and then Ruby read her blog, Joie d’Eve, protective of Georgia a story and made them which appears from everyone else in both hot chocolate. each Friday on My life wasn’t lonely the world – but treats MyNewOrleans.com her like crap herself as an only child. But I half the time. They don’t fight think – I hope; I pray – theirs will physically, but the bickering is so be so much richer. • intense I almost wonder if boys jane sanders illustration

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LOCAL COLOR . in tune

calendar must-see music october 2

Mothers experiment at Gasa Gasa. october 3

Ms. Lauryn Hill holds court at Lakefront Arena. october 5

Hinds rock Gasa Gasa. october 6 ODESZA

Father John Misty professes at The Civic. october 7

In The Groove Voodoo Fest Celebrates 20 Years By Mike Griffith

s we get the first hints of fall weather, it is time to look to Halloween and—of course—the Voodoo Music + Arts Experience. This year the festival celebrates its 20th installment with another all-star lineup. The headlining spots go to Mumford and Sons, Childish Gambino and the Arctic Monkeys. Mumford and Sons are arguably the biggest thing in indie folk and Americana right now. Childish Gambino is on his “This is America” tour, which was inaugurated with his amazing Saturday Night Live performance and groundbreaking video. The Arctic Monkeys are touring in support of their outstanding record from May—“Tranquility Base Hotel and Casino”—a concept album of glam and lounge inspired tracks depicting a luxury hotel on the moon. As usual, the festival has booked a great lineup for the PLUR

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electronic music stage featuring swing by and see some of Rainbow ODESZA, Martin Garrix and Sofi Kitten Surprise, Lizzo, Tinashe, Big Tukker. For those in the mood Thief, White Reaper, Mt. Joy and for something a bit harder, the CAAMP. I particularly recommend reformed A Perfect Circle will be Big Thief—Adrianne Lenker and out playing from their April release company have released two of the —“Eat The Elephant.” This year great indie folk albums of the last will also see a performance from five years. You’ll want to see that local favorite Marilyn Manson. one for sure. If all of this wasn’t enough Of course, while the music may entertainment for one weekend, be the main draw of Voodoo, there the incomparable Janelle Monáe is a whole lot more to see and do. rounds out the excellent The food is great. The slate of headliners at costumes are amazing. this year’s event. Her There’s a carnival and Playlist of latest release—“Dirty the grounds are host to mentioned bands Computer”—is one of a number of art instalavailable at: http:// the great records of the bit.ly/InTune10-18 lations. Over the past year. Regular readers 20 years Voodoo has of this column know insinuated itself into that when it comes to festivals the Halloween experience in New I’m always looking for the great Orleans so completely that it’s bands in the smaller fonts of impossible to imagine them apart. the poster. Voodoo has delivered We’ll see you out there. here as well. Make sure to take the time to

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Jungle brings the soul to Republic. october 11

Chvrches pop into the Joy. october 15

The Breeders rock The Civic. october 17

Bob Moses make Republic move. october 24

Too Many Zooz funk up One Eyed Jacks. october 24

Kero Kero Bonito pop into the Hi-Ho. Dates are subject to change; email Mike@ MyNewOrleans.com or contact him through Twitter @Minima.

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LOCAL COLOR . jazz life

ugust marked 117 years since Louis Armstrong’s birth. With the city’s greatest native son on a rise of planetary value, we should remember the woman who played an early pivotal role. When Armstrong left for Chicago in 1922 to join his mentor Joe “King” Oliver in the Creole Jazz Band, the petite Lil Hardin, a pianist with classical training at Fisk University, had moved to the Windy City with her mother. Working in a music store, learning ragtime, she met different piano players, buying scores. “One day Jelly Roll Morton came in,” she told Studs Terkel in a long interview (And They All Sang: Adventures of an Eclectic Disc Jockey.) “Oh, boy, he sat down at the piano and his long skinny fingers were hitting those keys and he was beating out a double rhythm and the people were just going wild. I was going wild, too! Jelly Roll is the first pianist that influenced my playing.” Three years younger than Lil, Louis with a fourth-grade education had a downhome, rough-edge quality (his ex-wife was a streetwalker) offset by the soaring poetics of his horn and a charming joviality. Her mother wasn’t happy as Lil turned to jazz,

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Louis’ Muse A shout-out for Lil Hardin Armstrong By Jason Berry

joining the Creole band in ’23. Armstrong’s powerful lyricism as second horn drew white musicians to the cavernous Royal Gardens on the South Side, with elegant Lil on piano an added draw for the house. The early Hot 5 recordings became jazz classics. In the electricity between Lil and Louis that led them to marry, she saw his stylistic voice getting crimped by Oliver’s lead horn. “Oliver was his idol,” she recalled.

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“I told him I definitely didn’t want to be married to a second-trumpet player.” Helping him refine his music reading, Lil pushed Louis to leave the Creole Jazz Band for a better showcase to his talent. He took a job in New York with Fletcher Henderson; she pressed Henderson to give him a raise: $55 to $75. An obvious question rises. What if Lil hadn’t pushed him to leave King Oliver? Louis would have

stayed in Chicago, content in the Creole band, a likely successor as lead trumpet when Oliver’s gum disease made his solos short and painful. All that, and Chicago domesticity. As Louis’s star soared in New York, he spent long stretches on the road; the breakup was slow, they divorced in 1938. Lil kept a place for him in her heart, went back to school, recharged her career. “In the meantime, I did have a 16 piece girls band. Oh, yeah, I tried everything…four years, 45 towns in France, 15 towns in Switzerland. Berlin, Frankfurt, Copehagen, Amsterdam, London.” She sang in several Broadway musicals, recorded as a vocalist for Decca in the 1940s and 50s. In later life she spent long periods at a Michigan lake house she and Louis had bought during the salad years in Chicago. Louis married a dancer after Lil, divorced again and settled into a long final marriage and a house in Queens with Lucille. (The house is now a museum.) Lil never remarried. With the news of his death in July 1971 she agreed to appear in a Chicago musical tribute a month later. In the middle of her set, she collapsed and died. •

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LOCAL COLOR . home

In Like Flynn A Custom Home To Fit Their Family By Lee Cutrone

n 2017, when Kristine and Joey Flynn of Flynn Designs built a new home for their family of four, the 6-month process was swift and smooth. Not surprising when you consider their level of experience. The couple worked on more than 100 other residential projects last year as well. “Word of mouth has really been building our business,” said Joey. ‘We recommend the contractors we work well with and they recommend a lot of business to us.” The couple met while both attending design school at University of Louisiana in Lafayette, married and began separate practices – she in interior design, he in architecture. Then in 2011, they joined forces as Flynn Designs (flynndesignsnola.com).

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A huge island topped with quartzite is the focal point of the kitchen. Kristine whitewashed the pecky cypress boards for the ceiling of the breakfast area and Joey installed them. Bar stools by Gabby Home.

“She can envision the design before anyone else can,” said Joey. “The space planning, layout and flow are my strong suit.” The Flynn’s own home - the fourth they’ve designed for themselves, but the first new construction - is a prime example of their strengths. The couple learned of the Harahan location when a developer-friend asked them to partner on the building of a spec house. Instead, they purchased the property and built a house that would suit the needs

Greg Miles photographs

of a young family (their son and daughter are six and five, respectively) and showcase their design talents. In fact, they often take clients through the house, which was built by RMC Construction. The lot, 50 by 120 feet, was a good standard size with which to work, so the couple used the project as a way to see what they could do. The idea was to build a 3,000 square-foot house that wouldn’t look out of scale in the neighborhood and to get as much as possible out of the square footage. By designing a one and a half story house with dormers rather than a two-story house, they were able to save on building costs while still incorporating four bedrooms, three and a half baths, laundry and mud rooms, a work area, a playroom, a butler’s

Top, left: The landing at the top of the stairs is used as a homework area with built-in desk and storage space. Top, right: Joey, Paxton, Norah and Kristine Flynn in front of the rock-climbing wall and nook in Paxton’s room. Bottom: By making the house one and a half stories with dormers instead of two full stories, the Flynns kept the house in scale with the lot and the surrounding houses.

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Facing page: Top, left: Daughter Norah’s room is pretty-in-pink with velvet, ruched-top curtains, a whimsical tent and a porcelain-flowered drum shade light fixture. Top, right: Five second story dormers make space for the upstairs rooms, which have sloped ceilings that follow the pitched roof-lines of the dormers. Bottom, left: A patterned cement tile floor from Jim Owens Flooring, built-in storage and gold-toned lanterns add polish to the utilitarian mudroom. Bottom, right: The downstairs playroom features a contemporary light fixture and doors with a distressed faux finish that imparts the look of age. This page: A pair of matching sofas and contemporary wing-back chairs with a Greek key pattern provide seating in the living room. Rug by Loloi.

pantry and plenty of closets in an informal, light-filled interior. The one traditional piece that’s missing is a formal dining room. The Flynns also designed the house to be versatile and employed creative alternatives to box-shaped rooms, storage areas and common design problems. The playroom, which shares a bath with the guest room, could be used as a fifth bedroom or office and is handicap accessible. “Anyone can draw a box,” said Kristine, who finds unusually shaped rooms to be more interesting. Inspiration for the house came from both “the comfortable beach feel” of the homes along Florida’s 30A and from New Orleans’ rich architecture.

“It’s an eclectic mix of all the things we’re exposed to,” said Joey. A decade of working with clients helped Kristine know where to spend and save the budget. She outfitted the entire house with striking light fixtures without breaking the bank, but insisted on custom cabinetry, which allows for greater flexibility with colors and finishes, and splurged on details like hardware. “We did a custom house on a spec house budget,” she said. The interior’s white palette is warmed with natural woods, distressed touches, and faux finishes. The floors are engineered white oak, there is a white-washed pecky cypress ceiling over the breakfast room and the painted doors leading to the playroom have the weathered look of salvaged antiques. The cool canvas of white reads as simple, clean, and understated, while the custom touches relay both the patina of age and the designer signature that the Flynns are known for. Kristine’s transitional mix of modern and traditional furnishings is in perfect sync with the architecture’s thoughtful origins. The Flynn’s style and expertise have engendered such trust among clients that several have allowed them carte blanche with all design choices. Video reveals of those clients happily viewing their remodeled spaces are posted on Flynn Designs’ website. Each time they’ve moved, their own homes have sold within 48 hours. “We definitely pride ourselves on being custom home designers,” said Kristine. “We try very hard to go through all the details and figure out how people live.” m y ne w orleans . com

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Would a plan to alter the Pearl at Jackson damage the downriver Louisiana area?

Coming

Unstrung b y C a r o ly n K o l b

p h o t o g r a p h e d by D e n n y C u l b e rt

nvironmental fiascos are not unusual around New Orleans. After all, it is in a state that measures its vanishing wetlands in football-fields-per-month. The current expected crisis is not the encroaching Gulf of Mexico: it’s quietly flowing from the east: the Pearl River. A planned lake and residential development (One Lake) in upriver Jackson, Mississippi, may forever change the Pearl, including “downriver,” as it is known. And, the changes to New Orleans and the surrounding area could be catastrophic. What could be bad about One Lake? Construction would dredge seven miles of the river and destroy that area’s ecosystem, remove hundreds of acres of bottomland forest, block the migration route of the threatened gulf sturgeon, damage habitat for endangered map and sawback turtles. Keeping the lake level steady would mean lessening flow downriver in time of drought or releasing torrents in heavy rain: water levels in the lower Pearl would change erratically. The Pearl flows for 115 miles along the toe of the Louisiana boot. Besides setting up a committee to study the Pearl, the Louisiana State Legislature came out against One Lake as did the governments of the bordering parishes of Washington and St. Tammany. Environmental groups in both states are up in arms. One Lake began when a multi-million-dollar flood devastated Jackson, Mississippi, in 1979. There were immediate calls for a comprehensive local flood control project. Years passed: no idea gained traction. By 1996, Jackson land owner and developer John McGowan, fueled by funds from his oil and gas company, proposed adding a lake encircled by commercial and housing developments below the Ross Barnett Reservoir, already sited on the Pearl River above Jackson. In the years since then, his tenacity has paid off. His One Lake Project collected support from city and state government. Business groups got on board, as did the powerful Mississippi Congressional delegation. Touted as a flood control project for the two counties surrounding Jackson (Rankin and Hinds), approval from the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers required environmental and economic studies, since completed, only from that immediate area. The effect downriver was not even considered (although the government has required a biologic study of effects along the Pearl’s downriver length to be done by September.) One Lake is progressing toward construction as it wends its way through legal hurdles and financial questioning. At this point, the decision to allow construction may come as early as the end of 2018. Most Orleanians know the Pearl only as the brown water under Interstate 10 between Slidell and the Mississippi coast. Those who live along its banks know it in a different way. State Representative Malinda White of Bogalusa has a family camp on the Pearl River. “I could be in the middle of a safari, but I’m right here in Washington Parish: it’s peaceful, it’s tranquil, you see all kinds of wildlife.” she explained. But, there are problems. “Over the years, the river has changed,” she noted. “The river bank is getting closer to our camp.” The current Ross Barnet Reservoir above Jackson can cause the water level to shift. “It can be completely dry here, with dust on the road. If it rains up north and they release the water, it might go up very fast. In the past 15 years we’ve seen it happen – the banks cave in, the trees go down. All of that is going south.” White serves on the Legislative committee, chaired by State Sen. Sharon Hewitt of Slidell. The goal is to find funding for an authority to manage the Pearl River. Hearings in Baton Rouge and Slidell were held in late August. One problem is being eliminated: federal money has been found to remove

a miles-long log and trash jam in the Bogalusa area. Another problem – a canal dug in the 1950s for transportation but deactivated – may result in Louisiana assuming the land and waterway. The Pearl’s problems can have effects closer to New Orleans. Dr. John Lopez, Director of the Coastal Stability Program for the Lake Pontchartrain Basin Foundation noted that one fifth of the lake’s fresh water comes from the Pearl. Should there be a more restricted flow or less fresh water in the Pearl, the salinity of the lake and its surrounding land could change. Oyster beds in Lake Borgne and along the Mississippi coast could be affected adversely by an influx of fresh water. One happy result of the closing of the Mississippi River Gulf Outlet in 2009 was that the salt level in the land around the lake decreased. Cypress trees cannot tolerate too much salt: nowadays they have a chance to thrive. “We have actually been planting cypress seedlings for 5 years and have an 80 percent survival rate.” Lopez said. “Anything that brings the salinity up would threaten the really massive recovery that has been happening all around Lake Pontchartrain and the wetlands.” The LPBF has sent letters of objection concerning the One Lake project. Jessica Gauley from Honey Island Kayak Tours grew up in Pearl River, Louisiana, and makes her living on the Pearl. “I’m really concerned about our mussel species. They are considered keystone species: without them we are not going to have a healthy river,” she said. “When I was a child the bluefer mussels would be big as dinner plates: now they are about the size of my hands.” A 2011 black liquor spill from the Bogalusa paper mill was hard on the mussels. “We are down to 23 species from 29.” The Pearl was named for the pearly interior of old mussel shells on the river bottom shining through the water. Andrew Jackson’s engineer noted this while chronicling the General’s route to battle in 1815: they crossed the Pearl near Angie, Louisiana, and followed the path of Louisiana Highway 21 (Military Road) to Madisonville on their way to New Orleans. Abby Braman, formerly a military helicopter pilot, moved to Jackson, Mississippi, with her family two years ago and quickly grew to love the Pearl River. After getting concerned with trash along the riverbank, she followed directions from the national Waterkeeper Alliance and became the Riverkeeper for the Pearl. Massive CleanSweep trash removal days were held Saturday, September 15 and 22 in both states. Braman said the nearly 100 companies with dumping permits are also concerned: changes in flow and “having a wide-open lake with the sun shining on it: their permits have limits on flow and temperature.” Josh Mitchell, of the Walkiah Bluff area near Picayune, Mississippi, has long hunted and fished the Pearl (and found an ancient steam engine and boards from old flatboats from the Pearl’s navigable days.) “This One Lake project has the potential to do even more damage down here before they fix the real issues we already have.” he pointed out. The Pearl splits into several streams as it nears its end, and this is the area Mitchell is most concerned about. The Louisiana side is capturing more water than the Mississippi side - the now-closed canal, the log jam, the many low dams (weirs and sills) that block water flow already. These are the areas that both locals and environmentalists agree need attention and support now, before time runs out for good on the Pearl’s delicate ecosystems. Do your bit to help our watery neighbor: check out PearlRiverKeeper.com and take part at a CleanSweep location. And, register at http://rankinhindsflooddistrict.ms.gov/report/ to download required reports. Editor’s Note: U.S. Rep. Steve Scalise has recently introduced legislation requiring that the One Lake project must be approved by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers before it receives federal funding. Originally, such funding could have been made prior to Corps approval.

Alice + Olivia Tabitha Slit-Shoulder Sapphire Dress with detachable Fox Fur Cuffs at Saks Fifth Avenue Canal Place, Saksfifthavenue.com; Simon Miller “Lunchbag” clutch at Pied Nu, Piednunola.com

Make It Work When the season changes, it’s time to change with it. Boost your fashion profile with effortless dressing in dazzling color, luxurious accessories and exotic trim. By Lisa Tudor Photographed by Theresa Cassagne Makeup by Wendy Karcher Hair by Ainsleigh Callaghan for Salon Callidora Model Kelly Murtagh Gilchrist Photographed at NOPSI Hotel, Nopsihotel.com

Sea Dark Green Classic Cuffed Pant and Orange Puff Sleeve Cashmere Sweater, Dahl Shearling mules, Gabriela Artigas Curve Earrings and Cuffs, Janessa Leone Bronze Hat and Clare V Gold Suede Mini Stripe Tote at Piednunola.com.

Emotional Essence Jersey Shift Dress and Glossy Ambition Pull-On Boots by Dorothee Schumacher with Gabriela Artigas Curve Earrings at Piednunola.com.

Draped Front Gown by Rick Owens and Spinelli Kilcollin Leda Ring at Weinsteinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s New Orleans, Weinsteinsinc.com. Rachel Comey Straddle Cuff at Pied Nu, Piednunola.com.

Alice + Olivia Delora Textured Leopard dress at Saks Fifth Avenue Canal Place, Saksfifthavenue.com; Gold Cuffs and Curve earrings by Gabriela Artigas at Pied Nu, Piednunola.com.

Russian Green Feather Sequin Dress by Odeeh and Rachel Comey Malachite Earrings at Pied Nu, Piednunola.com

Doc

By B i l l C a p o

P h oto g r a p h by G r e g M i l e s

Hawley T h e C a p ta i n at t h e C a l l i o p e

he Steamboat Natchez floats brilliantly on the Mississippi River, white sides gleaming, flags waving, the 26 ton red paddlewheel churning the brown water, black smokestacks reaching skyward in celebration of her power over the giant river. And she sings, her voice a melodic cry from

the calliope. When Clarke “Doc” Hawley touches the calliope keys, the French Quarter hears the music. Few listening know they are hearing not just a musician, but a Mississippi River legend. Doc climbs to the top deck behind the pilothouse, flips the lever to send steam from the boat’s boilers into the instrument, then begins playing the 32 keys to create the bright sound from the showboat era. As Doc plays, the hot steam swirls around him, causing the brass whistles to sweat, their shriek so loud up close that he has to wear ear protection. His fingers pound the keys, because while modern keyboards activate the steam whistles electronically, the calliopes he learned on were hand powered. His fingers had to hit the keys hard enough to pull wires that opened valves to emit the steam. On the dock, passengers in line for the cruise look up and applaud. “That goes to my mother’s era, the music,” said Barbara Robillard of Springhill, Florida.

“I’m really excited to go on there, because I haven’t been on a steamboat,” added Moe Robillard. Doc has been playing the calliope for 63 years, yet it was a career that started accidentally in 1952, when the 17 year old saw the steamboat Avalon arrive in Charleston, West Virginia, but her calliope was silent. When he learned the boat had lost its calliope player, he applied for the job. “I taught myself to play the parlor organ,” Doc recalled. “When I interviewed for the job, I told the captain I don’t need music, in fact, I don’t read music.” He got the job when he played “Mairzy Doats,” a well known song at the time, and one he still plays, along with “Alexander’s Rag Time Band,” “Here Comes The Showboat,” and other songs from an earlier time. “I had no dream of ever working on a steamboat,” Doc said. “The Avalon went everywhere. She was like a floating carnival, a circus. In the winter, we went down to New Orleans. In the summer, we went up north. My first year, I worked on nine rivers in 17 states. I was working with guys who got their pilot’s licenses in the 1880s and 90s.” He learned steamboat history and operations from them, and Doc was hooked, beginning a career of 13 hour workdays, six to seven

days a week, becoming a deck hand, then a mate and pilot. By age 22, he was a captain. But the steamboat masters of legend were big, burly guys able to impress a crew by their size. Doc was only five feet, seven inches tall, but he was no pushover, and earned respect in multiple ways. “On that boat we had a lot of fights,” Doc remembered. “I could duke it out. I ended up with a sore lip.” “I had plenty of respect,” he added. “Mainly reputation. I had a good reputation in the passenger boat world, first for the calliope.” “I worked with the crew,” he continued. “I knew everybody’s name. It’s something my father, who was a boss, told me: ‘Treat everybody

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like you want to be treated. It’ll make your job a whole lot easier.’” Now Doc is welcomed like a legend, crew members and dining room staff smile and shake his hand in admiration. “He is the most knowledgeable, has the most experience of anybody on the whole river system alive today. I’m so glad he’s around, so glad he’s here,” said current captain Don Houghton, who was hired by Doc as a deck hand 36 years ago, and worked his way up to master of the boat, with his mentor’s help. “He was very important to me,” Houghton said. “When I first started here, I didn’t really have a father figure that taught me the ropes. I started here when I was 19, and he taught me about the ropes on the boat, and the ropes in real life.” “He’s a fine young man, and a damn good pilot,” Doc noted succinctly. Doc became pilot of the steamboats American Queen and President, captain of the Delta Queen, and returned to the Avalon as captain when she became the Belle of Louisville. But as he steamed across the heartland of America, he never forgot one town: New Orleans. “I made 63 trips down here on the Delta Queen, as a mate, master, and pilot,” Doc said. “Every one of those trips left me thinking ‘This is an amazing place, this is the best town I’ve ever been in.’” In 1975, the New Orleans Steamboat Company hired Doc as captain of their brand new steamship Natchez, the ninth to carry that name. “I quit the Belle of Louisville, and took this job,” Doc said, “simply because I was going to live in New Orleans full time.” Doc bought a French Quarter town home that was built in 1829, and he treasures the shady courtyard, balconies, and curving stairway. His shelves are filled with steamboat books, including some he has written, and the walls are covered with paintings and pictures of the Natchez, and other legendary boats. His hands caress nick-nacks that came from steamboats. Doc loves the Natchez. He knows every inch of her, and he even painted the boat name on her sides in 1975. He did a lot of media interviews that spring, including one with a college student, me, for one of my very first television reports. Doc treated me like I was Edward R. Murrow, and I remember the huge excitement he had

for his new job, and new boat, and it is still evident today as he mentions the steam engines that date to 1927. “It’s a very, very maneuverable, powerful boat,” Doc said. “The engines are actually from a boat that pushed barges, just perfect for a boat like the Natchez.” Doc points out an eddy, a giant swirl in the current close to the Natchez dock. He knows the Mississippi may look placid, but can be unexpectedly violent. He learned to master immense, unpredictable rivers like the Mississippi and Missouri. “They’re really tough, you can get in trouble easier, especially downbound (heading down river). You are going with the current. Going upbound it is easy to stop your boat, going downbound it is hard to stop your boat. You’ve got to back up a whole lot more. “The Mississippi is as clear as drinking water from St. Paul to St. Louis, and when you pass the mouth of the Missouri, then you have mud from there on to the Gulf, café au lait water.” He still feels pain about the worst day, three decades ago, when a ship lost steering and struck the Natchez where she was tied up at the dock. “She had a big hole in the hull,” Doc recalled. “She’s got 33 compartments, and just enough of those compartments had been damaged that we thought she was going to go down. We were really afraid of that. But the Fire Department helped pump her out.” She went to the dry dock for repairs. “The biggest catfish that I had ever seen floated out of the Natchez’ hull.” Doc has seen so much of America up close. “Different foods, different variations in the English language,” Doc said. “Omaha has great steak. Omaha and Kansas City are steak, that’s beef country. Get a little further north, St. Paul area, a lot more lamb, and stuff that the Norwegians, and the Swiss, and Swedish, would eat. The best chili is Cincinnati, Ohio.” “Nothing compares to New Orleans. Nothing food-wise can equal New Orleans’ different varieties in the same city. I eat everything.” He got the nickname Doc as a teenage soda jerk in a drug store. “I gave my school chums lagniappe. If you were nice to me, I might give you two cherries instead of one. They called the druggist ‘Doc,’ and I was ‘Little Doc,’ that’s how I got the name.” Steamboats are irresistible, even to celebrities. “I’ve met President Bush, father and son, I had Gerald Ford on the Natchez, I had Ronald Reagan on the Belle of Louisville, and Jimmy Carter on the Delta Queen, and lots of movie stars,” Doc said. “On the Natchez we’ve had more than any other boat, we’ve had Muhammad Ali.” I heard you arm-wrestled Muhammad Ali? “Yeah, Yeah!” You beat him? “He let me beat him.” But Doc still raves about the visit one star made to the Natchez for a TV show. “Dolly Parton, absolutely my favorite person that I’ve met,” Doc recalled wistfully. “Dolly came on the boat, and the first thing I said, ‘Hello Miss Parton,’ and she said ‘Captain, there’s one thing: I am Dolly. Dolly. Don’t call me Miz Parton, that’s my Momma’s name.’ I said ‘Well you call me Doc then.’” Doc retired as Natchez captain in 1995, but still loves playing the calliope, and living in New Orleans. “I didn’t leave New Orleans. I’m still here, I wasn’t about to go up north. I didn’t want any more winters.”

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Southern woman has infamous mystique. Books, ballads, TV shows and films have long tapped into the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fascination with a woman who is at once feminine, but not afraid to speak her mind; gracious, but in no way a pushover; and with the strength and force of hurricane winds whipping across the Gulf Coast. The southern woman has earned her fitting nickname: Steel Magnolia.

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Jackie Levy Hughes Owner, Pel Hughes Companies Jackie Levy Hughes’s broad range of interests and talents have done more than simply enrich her personal life— they’ve also served as guides through her business career. When her 50-year-old family-owned printing company suffered devastating losses from Hurricane Katrina, Jackie’s family created two new businesses: Toulouse Gourmet Catering/The Cannery and Floor de Lis Flooring, which are now celebrating ten years of success and quality service. Original company Pel Hughes Printing, also revived and flourishing, is one of the region’s largest printing and marketing companies. Jackie contributes her spare time and talents to Boys Hope/Girls Hope New Orleans and the Sisters of the Holy Family Development Board, and she serves as a counselor in The Leading Ladies Guild of JPAS (Jefferson Performing Arts Society). As her children become more active in the daily operations of the family businesses, she is also enjoying more time on the tennis courts. Clothing by Saks Fifth Avenue: Kalgan Lamb Vest, Etro, AG Jeans

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New Orleans Magazine would like to thanks Saks Fifth Avenue for providing the clothing and styling, H20 Salon & Spa for providing hair and makeup, Hollywood Makeup Bootcamp for providing makeup and The Cannery and Toulouse Gourmet for providing the venue and catering for our 2018 Steel Magnolias photoshoot.

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Clothing from Saks Fifth Avenue (from left to right): Chiara Boni; Teri John; Herve Leger; Pyeo Fox â&#x20AC;&#x201C; The Fur Salon at Saks Fifth Avenue; Basix; Chiara Boni; Chiara Boni; Chiara Boni; St. John; Chiara Boni.

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Dottie Belletto President/CEO NOCCI Dottie Belletto has been gracefully overcoming obstacles, defying expectations and creating a diverse range of client experiences for 32 years. Through her masterful approach to event planning, she has catered to several United States Presidents, religious leaders, community members and even international royalty. She is an unstoppable force in the New Orleans event scene and is proud that the company she built is far from a traditional destination management company. NOCCI touches a wide range of projects, from conferences and fundraisers to festivals and sporting events, but Dottieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s impact in the city goes far beyond her work and extends to several community boards supporting women and children. She is proud to serve as the Vice Chair of Board Development & Government Relations for the New Orleans Ballet Association and as a Commissioner on the Ernest N. Morial New Orleans Exhibition Hall Authority Board. Clothing by Saks Fifth Avenue: Etro

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Shirley “Toni” McCord, cpa Founder & CEO Shirley “Toni” McCord, CPA, APAC Toni McCord believes that the key to her success is providing all the expertise of a national CPA firm but with local, personal service. This commitment to her clients led Toni to establish her firm in 2000, which now has offices in Metairie and Mandeville. In addition to running her successful CPA firm for 18 years, McCord has received numerous awards and accolades for her work; in 2014, she received Sophisticated Woman’s Best of the Northshore award, and was named one of CityBusiness’ Money Makers in 2016. Along with balancing books, McCord believes in the value of a wonderful life and work balance. She generously gives back to the community through local organizations, including Executive Women International, for which she is a former president, the National Association of Women Business Owners, and Fidelity P.O.W.E.R. She has a true heart for New Orleans and says, “Making the most of every opportunity adds up to a successful and happy life!” Clothing by Saks Fifth Avenue: Alexander McQueen

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Dee Allen Clubb Founder & CEO, OMNI Advertising•Marketing•PR, Inc. Communications strategist Dee Allen Clubb founded OMNI Advertising in 1991, and for the last 35 years, she has used her wisdom and expertise to help clients spread the word about their exceptional products and services. She defines herself and her success through her faith, family and friends, along with an absolute commitment to those she serves. Wishing to share her insider marketing knowledge even further, Clubb wrote and published The Art of The Message, a practical guide designed to help business owners connect with their customers through strategic messaging. As a true believer in giving back, Clubb has served as former president of professional boards including NAWBO (National Association of Women Business Owners), EWI (Executive Women International) and Louisiana Guardianship Services, in addition to serving on the board for East Jefferson Business Association and as a trustee of her church, First Baptist New Orleans. Clubb’s best advice is, “What you say matters, so choose to say it well!” Clothing by Saks Fifth Avenue: Etro

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Christine M. Vinson President, Vinson Guard Service, Inc. Christine M. Vinson grew up watching her grandfather – and then her father – grow Vinson Guard Service, Inc.’s reputation and business. As the thirdgeneration owner of the 55-year-old family business, she works side-by-side with second-generation leadership, including her aunt Maria Vinson Landry, CPP, Vice President of Sales & Marketing. With over five decades of service across a variety of industries, the family business has seen it all – encounters with active shooters, strikes and natural disasters, to name a few. And with 250 clients, Vinson is proud to build upon the reliability and trustworthiness her family is known for. When she’s not busy ensuring a business’s security, she is giving back by volunteering with Junior League of New Orleans and Crimestoppers GNO. “After 54 years, certifying as a WBE via WBENC was exciting as a business owner,” Vinson said. “It’s wonderful to continue our tradition of great service while recognizing what sets us apart.” Clothing by Saks Fifth Avenue: Etro

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Maria Vinson Landry, cpp Vice President of Sales & Marketing, Vinson Guard Service, Inc. Although she would never call herself an expert, Maria Vinson Landry’s years of hard work and experience have certainly earned her that designation. Landry has more than 35 years of work experience and is a designated Certified Protection Professional, which is globally recognized as the standard of excellence for security management professionals. Her extensive volunteer experience with the National Council of Investigation and Security Services (NCISS), including serving as former president and chair, earned her NCISS’s highest honor – the NCISS John J. Duffy award, presented to a member who exemplifies the highest conduct and service standards in private investigation and security services. “I’m extremely grateful to work in the family business,” Landry said. “I’ve had the opportunity to work alongside my father and mother, brothers, and now my niece – it’s an incredible experience which I’m honored to be a part of.” Clothing by Saks Fifth Avenue: Michael Kors

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Ashley C Geoghegan, dvm, cva, cvft Founder, VetNaturally by Dr G Dr. Ashley Geoghegan is no ordinary veterinarian: she joined the army as a veterinary officer and traveled the world treating President Bushâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s guard dogs, bomb dogs, and search and rescue dogs. Her thorough understanding of both eastern and western approaches to medicine have helped her to understand the need for alternative treatments for chronic conditions. By marrying these schools of thought, Dr. Geoghegan has built her business on the foundation of healing pets naturally, without resorting to expensive procedures and prescription medication. Her work speaks for itself: over 25,000 social media followers tune in to her educational video series, and she is a frequent speaker at LSU Veterinary School, teaches at the Chi Institute, runs a private practice in Mandeville and started the Plays for Pets program, which brings safe toys to shelter pets each Christmas. Clothing by Saks Fifth Avenue: Chiara Boni

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Kim Moore Co-Founder, Irwin Fritchie Urquhart & Moore, LLC Kim E. Moore, founding member of Irwin Fritchie Urquhart & Moore LLC, enjoys a practice focused on national and international product liability law for Fortune 500 pharmaceutical and medical device companies. She and her partners started their firm with a focus on providing excellent service to their clients while supporting each other, their families and the community. This commitment has earned the firm recognition as a leading workplace in several publications. For Kim, the key to a meaningful life is making a difference in the lives of others, and she believes that itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s often the little things that make these differences. Whether dealing with the president of a company or a person on the street, she believes everyone deserves respect. Kim and her husband, Kenny Bordelon, have been intimately involved in community support for many years with volunteer efforts including House of Ruth, New Orleans Women and Childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Shelter and Habitat for Humanity. Clothing by Saks Fifth Avenue: Black Halo

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Katie Witry Realtor® and Co-Owner of The Witry Collective Katie Witry believes the customer’s experience should be the core value of a company. In the Witry household, work and family life were blended. Both of Katie’s parents were small business owners and worked hard to form relationships with their clients, so Katie saw firsthand how the customer’s experience shapes a business. She was part of a local firm for 14 years, and in January 2018, she opened a brokerage called the Witry Collective with three partners she has collaborated with for over a decade. When asked to sum up the Witry Collective difference she states, “We are a mission-driven company that is client-centric, focused on creating community within our vibrant historic neighborhoods.” Witry’s work has also earned her several accolades: She was named a 2018 CityBusiness Excellence in Construction & Real Estate Honoree and was the 2016 Women’s Council of Realtors® New Orleans Metropolitan Chapter Member of the Year. Clothing by Saks Fifth Avenue: Herve Leger

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Amy Bakay, shrm-scp Founder, HR NOLA, LLC Anyone who has worked with Amy Bakay can tell you that she’s as gentle as a magnolia but possesses the strength and fortitude of an oak tree. It’s a fine balance that anyone in human resources hopes to achieve, and Bakay does it with grace. For years, she dreamed of creating a team of talented HR practitioners who could provide tailored support to small and mid-sized companies, and with her own business HR NOLA, she’s become a trailblazer not only in her industry, but in advocating for women’s issues, employee development and compliance. In addition to growing her business, Bakay is also an Adjunct Professor for the Master of Jurisprudence in Labor & Employment Law program at Tulane Law School, the Vice President of Membership for NOLA SHRM Board of Directors, and is a Senior Certified Professional with the Society of Human Resources. Bakay’s latest honor is a nomination for the 2018 Woman of the Year by New Orleans City Business. Clothing by Saks Fifth Avenue: Michael Kors

The Menu TABLE TALK . RESTAURANT INSIDER . FOOD . LAST CALL . DINING LISTINGS

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Fried Calamari at Longway Tavern

THE MENU . TABLE TALK

meet the chef Chef John Sinclair

Radishes & Butter and Chopped Chicken Sandwich

Neighborhood Haunt Longway Tavern By Jay Forman

t can be easy to forget that the French Quarter is a neighborhood. Not a normal one, but a neighborhood nonetheless. As such, it has a neighborhood’s needs, like a place to relax without yard-long beers or novelty shirts. Leave

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it to the LeBlanc + Smith Restaurant Group to come up with solutions. They’ve carved out an identity by opening places designed to appeal to locals through thoughtful approaches to both food and spirits. Meauxbar and Sylvain are two

Chef John Sinclair hails from Connecticut where he was admittedly not a particularly motivated high school student. He caught the cooking bug while working for the Boy Scouts in their Order of the Arrow program, where he did demos that emphasized how to easily cook healthier and better meals while camping. From there he enrolled in a culinary program before moving to New Orleans. He gained fine dining experience at Herbsaint and Coquette (as well as its spinoff pop-up Little Bird) and also worked as a bar back at Barrel Proof – perfect experience for his new, greatly expanded role with Longway Tavern.

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examples. To this you can now and I was totally on board with add Longway, their latest offering. that, so we came up with this Housed in one of the Quarter’s as an alternative,” Sinclair says. oldest buildings just a few steps Longway’s menu emphasizes off Bourbon, Longway benefits sharing, and toward this end they from a respectfully contemporary employ a clever method by which redesign that opens into a spacious diners fill out a card for their courtyard. Liam Deegan handles table’s order, akin to what you’d the bar side of the equation, while find at a sushi restaurant. It also Chef John Sinclair handles the has the added bonus of speeding kitchen. Both worked together up service. The card also has a at Barrel Proof prior to Longway check box for “One of Everything,” and bring their chemistry into this an easy option for larger groups. new endeavor. As you might expect given this Sinclair has fine dining chops – restaurant group’s portfolio, the he has worked at both Herbsaint cocktails at Longway are top-notch. and Coquette – and while those “Liam’s approach is pretty clean skills are evident the approach and simple. He’s not a crazy ‘We’re is more casual. “Like a lot of making our own bitters!’ kind of people, some of my favorite dining guy,” Sinclair says. “He wants experiences have not been at a classics that are made well with the crazy-expensive right ingredients. restaurant but at They are classics a picnic table with for a reason, Longway Tavern, 719 friends. We want right?” There is Toulouse St., French it to be that kind an emphasis on Quarter, 962-9696. of comfortable cocktails like the D Nightly. L Fri-Sun. Sazerac and the place,” he says. Longwaytavern.com Old Fashioned. Fo r S i n c l a i r, While the drinks it boils down to using familiar elements as are not necessarily paired with the starting points then branching menu, both Deegan and Sinclair out into components that stretch have a feel for each other’s styles expectations. The menu is gently having worked together at Barrel shaped by the shared New Proof. England backgrounds of both Longway is a good choice for Sinclair and Deegan. For example, late-night dining with the kitchen the fried calamari comes with open every night until midnight. charred lemon and blistered grape They serve lunch (it’s the same tomatoes in an elevated play on its menu as dinner) Friday through more traditional accompaniments. Sunday as well.• “I know Liam would have preferred a paper basket, lemon wedge and side of marinara, but I couldn’t leave it at that,” Sinclair adds. Try the radishes and butter, a simple dish that is salty, spicy, Pub Eats fatty and crunchy all at once. For suds aficionados, Port Orleans The home fries, cubed potatoes Brewing Company offers an studded with pork belly chunks impressively broad selection and caramelized onions, is a crowd of proprietary brews on tap in pleaser and easy to share. For their showcase brewpub on sandwiches, the chicken layers Tchopitoulas Street. Beers are flavors with a silky chicken mousse complemented with a menu to complement the chopped thigh including pretzel rolls made with meat. There is also a Wagyu beef spent grain from the brewing sandwich made with flank steak process and fish and chips with a from the heritage breed. “Liam Vietnamese twist (Nuoc Cham in didn’t want a burger on the menu lieu of malt vinegar). my ne w orleans . co m

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THE MENU . restaurant insider

News From the Kitchen Couvant, Hot & Spicy Corner, Estaño By Robert Peyton

Skate

Couvant

Hot & Spicy Corner

Estaño

Couvant, a French brasserie, opened recently in the Eliza Jane Hotel in the CBD. Chef Brad McDonald got his start at City Grocery in Oxford, Mississippi, worked with renowned chefs here and abroad, and most recently helmed a Southernfocused restaurant in London. Look for innovative takes on standards such as Pissaladière, mussels prepared several ways, steak frites and escargots. Couvant: 317 Magazine St., 324-5400; Sun.-Thurs. 7 to 10, Fri. and Sat. until 11, Sun. brunch from 10 to 3, Couvant.com.

Hot & Spicy Corner, a restaurant serving Pakistani and Indian cuisine, opened in August. The restaurant’s diverse menu includes several dishes not often seen locally, such as Dahi Bhalle: lentil dumplings with yogurt and chutneys; multiple goat dishes and a curry with hard boiled eggs. A large variety of breads and desserts are made in-house. Hot & Spicy Corner 3431 Houma Blvd.; 702-8660; Tues. – Sun. 10 to 10, Fri. 4 to 10. Hotspicycorner.com.

New Orleans has a new spot for tapas: Estaño. The restaurant features a traditional take on the Basque small plates, both in the dishes offered and how they’re served. Here, “pintxos” such as croquettes, grilled octopus and bread topped with cured meats, cheese, seafood and tomato are put out on a bar for diners to choose while sipping Spanish wines and dry ciders. Estaño: 2266 St. Claude Ave.; 930-8038; Tues. – Sat., 10 to 10. Facebook.com/estanonola/.

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THE MENU . food

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styled by photographed by eugenia uhl

All Treat, No Trick Fall in love with this easy pumpkin soup

RECIPE PUMPKIN SOUP IN BREAD BOWLS

BY Dale Curry

Ingredients

hey say the weather is beautiful everywhere in October. Because it is one of our most comfortable months, I try to stay at home and enjoy the snappy chill in the air and the first chance for hot soups. And, although the food police may tell you not to, I always use my jack-o-lantern to make something yummy the next day. No one has gotten sick because I refrigerate it about one hour after dark when the usual two or three trick-or-treaters have passed by my house. My favorite use for it is pumpkin soup. I’ve always admired pictures of it served in real pumpkin shells, but carving out raw pumpkin (cooking it first would ruin the texture) is about as easy as jack-hammering concrete. And, ceramic pumpkin bowls are beautiful, but I’ve never owned one. This year I had the idea of serving it in bread bowls, but on second thought, that might fall into the jack-hammering scenario in terms of time spent. Then, it occurred to me that some bakeries have bread soup bowls or large, crusty rolls that might be used. Pumpkins are easy to grow, are highly nutritious and are in the squash family. In early New Orleans, cooks baked them in pies called tarte de citrouille, laced with brandy. Pumpkin was also served as a side dish for dinner accented

6 to 8 crusty bread bowls for soup* with cinnamon and nutmeg, alongside lamb, pork, fowl or beef. The color stands out especially in soups to which cream and sometimes potato are added. Bright orange and deep green vegetables star in the Louisiana fall crop with not only pumpkins but butternut squash; collard, turnip and mustard greens, and kale. Extremely healthful, these tasty veggies are a good match for the exercise we can do in beautiful October - biking on the levees, playing sports in the parks and taking long walks without even breaking a sweat. After enjoying plenty of the great outdoors, there’s nothing like a good soup and crusty bread for dinner.

5 cups pumpkin, freshly cooked or canned 4 tablespoons butter 1 large onion, chopped 1 stalk celery, chopped 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 tablespoon fresh ginger, minced 8 cups chicken stock, homemade or canned or made from chicken base in jars 1 large potato, peeled and cubed Freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 1/2 teaspoon cumin ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg Salt to taste, if needed 1 cup heavy cream 6 slices bacon, cooked and crumbled Directions 1. Hollow out rolls, if necessary, leaving room for 1 cup of soup. Set aside. 2. If cooking pumpkin, peel and cut into 2-inch cubes, and mash to measure. 3. In a large pot, melt butter and saute onion and celery until

Pumpkin prep

wilted. Add garlic and ginger and cook a minute or two. Add

a how-to guide

stock and heat to a boil. Add potato, pumpkin, pepper, cumin,

Cooking a pumpkin should be done before peeling. Seed and scrape the inside of the pumpkin, discarding all but the meat. If using a jack-o-lantern, this step is already done. Bake seeded pumpkin whole or in pieces in a 350-degree oven until fork tender. When cool enough to handle, peel with a sharp knife. Pumpkin should mash easily. It can be frozen at this point for later use.

cinnamon and nutmeg. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook until potato is done. Taste and adjust seasonings. You may not need salt if the stock is salted. Add salt now if needed. 4. Use a hand blender to puree soup. If you do not have a hand blender, puree in batches in a regular blender or food processor. 5. Add heavy cream and heat but do not boil. Remove from heat. 6. Cook bacon until completely done. Cool and crumble. 7. When ready to serve, heat oven to 350 degrees. On the stove top, heat soup to hot. When oven is hot, heat rolls until hot. Place on plates and fill with soup, about 1 cup. Top with crumbled bacon. Serves 6 to 8. *I found bread bowls for soup at Panera Bread. Some bread bakeries make crusty rolls that could be hollowed out and used as bowls. Buy as many as needed, and freeze leftovers for later use.

THE MENU . last call

Playing the Middle Aperol Spritz By Tim McNally

n the hospitality industry, October is classified as a “shoulder month.” It’s still very warm; even the memory of hot weather has not faded. Life’s cyclical happenings of work, school, vacation are more in a work mode. Around here, the seasonal challenges of hurricanes are winding down and there is a bit of cooler weather, plus those longer days are in the air. For New Orleans, the festival scene does not take any break. We continue to stage incredible amounts of distinguished celebrations, any of one of which would be uniquely noteworthy in any other community. But around here, they all have to jostle and compete for our attention and patronage, which they all do with impressive and satisfying styles. Keeping tipples simple and delicious is still the siren call, and the creative gang at La Boucherie have hit the perfect notes, emphasizing our town’s Italian heritage which we celebrate frequently. Aperol is an Italian digestive, bitter in character but also sweet, and quite the refreshing change of pace, especially when it is the centerpiece of a sparkling beverage.

RECIPE Aperol Spritz

2 ¼ oz. Bianca Vigna Prosecco 1 ½ oz. Aperol ¾ oz. soda water 1 healthy mint sprig (garnish) 1 half-wheel of orange (garnish) Combine all ingredients gently in 16 oz. tumbler. Add ice to fill. Garnish with mint and orange half-wheel. La Boulangerie, 4600 Magazine St., 269-3777, LaBoulangerieNola.com.

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THE MENU . dining listings H= New Orleans Magazine award winner

Abita Springs Abita Brew Pub Gastropub 72011 Holly St., (985) 892-5837, AbitaBrewPub.com. L, D Tue-Sun. Better-than-expected pub food in its namesake eatery.“Tasteful” tours available for visitors. $$ Akers Middendorf’s Seafood Interstate 55, Exit 15, 30160 Hwy. 51 S., (985) 386-6666, MiddendorfsRestaurant.com. L, D Wed-Sun. Historic seafood destination along the shores of Lake Maurepas is world-famous for its thin-fried catfish fillets. Open since 1934, it’s a Sun. drive tradition. $$ Avondale

H Mosca’s Italian 4137 Hwy. 90 W., 4368950, MoscasRestaurant.com. D Tue-Sat. Italian institution dishes out massive portions of great food, family-style. Good bets are the shrimp Mosca and chicken à la grande. Cash only. $$$ Bywater H Pizza Delicious pizza 617 Piety St., 676-8482, PizzaDelicious.com. L, D Tue-Sun. Authentic New York-style thin crust pizza is the reason to come to this affordable restaurant , that also offers excellent salads sourced from small farms and homemade pasta dishes. Outdoor seating a plus. $ Carrollton Bourré AMERICAN 1510 S. Carrollton Ave., 510-4040. L, D Tue-Sun.“Elevated” street food along with quality daiquiris and wings are the draw at this newcomer from the team behind Boucherie. $$ Breads on Oak Bakery/Breakfast 8640 Oak St., 324-8271, BreadsOnOak.com. B, L WedSun. Artisan bakeshop tucked away near the levee on Oak St. serves breads, sandwiches, gluten-free and vegan-friendly options. $ City Park Café NOMA AMERICAN 1 Collins Diboll Cir., NO Museum of Art, 482-1264, CafeNoma. com. L, (snacks) Tue-Sun. Sleek bar and café in the ground floor of museum offers a thoughtful array of snacks, sandwiches and small plates that are sure to enchant, with a kids’ menu to boot. $$ Morning Call Bakery/Breakfast 56 Dreyfous Dr., City Park, 885-4068, NewOrleansCityPark.com/in-the-park/ morning-call. 24 hours a day; cash-only. Chicory coffee and beignets make this the quintessential New Orleans coffee shop. $ CBD/Warehouse District H Annunciation Louisianian Fare 1016 Annunciation St., 568-0245, AnnunciationRestaurant.com. D Mon-Sat, Br Sun. Chef Steven Manning brings a refined sensibility to this refined Warehouse District oasis along with his famous fried oysters with melted brie. $$$ Balise Louisianian Fare 640 Carondelet St., 459-4449, BaliseNola.com. L Tue-Fri, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Chef Justin Devillier turns back the clock at this turn-of-the-century inspired bistro in the CBD. Carefully crafted fare fits 84

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well alongside the excellent cocktail and beer list. $$$

$$ = $11-15

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pleasing lunch and dinner fare. $$

Canal St., 533-6111, HarrahsNewOrleans. com. D daily. Acclaimed chef John Besh reinterprets the classic steakhouse with his signature contemporary Louisiana flair. $$$$$

H Herbsaint Louisianian Fare 701 St. Charles Ave., 524-4114, Herbsaint.com. L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat. Enjoy a sophisticated cocktail before sampling chef Donald Link’s menu that melds contemporary bistro fare with classic Louisiana cuisine. The banana brown butter tart is a favorite dessert. $$$$$

H Borgne Seafood 601 Loyola Ave., 613-3860, BorgneRestaurant.com. L, D daily. Coastal Louisiana with an emphasis on Isleños cuisine (descendants of Canary Islanders who settled in St. Bernard Parish) is the focus of this high-volume destination adjacent to the Superdome. $$$

Johnny Sanchez World 930 Poydras St., 304-6615, JohnnySanchezRestaurant. com. L, D daily. Contemporary Mexican mecca offering locally sourced produce accompanying the Bistec a la Parilla. Popular happy hour and downtown locale next to South Market District add to the appeal. $$$

Calcasieu Specialty Foods 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 588-2188, CalcasieuRooms.com. For large and small gatherings, the catering menus feature modern Louisiana cooking and the Cajun cuisine for which chef Donald Link is justifiably famous.

H La Boca Steakhouse

H BH Steak Steakhouse Harrah’s Casino, 8

Chophouse New Orleans Steakhouse 322 Magazine St., 522-7902, ChophouseNola.com. D daily. In addition to USDA prime grade aged steaks, Chophouse offers lobster, redfish and classic steakhouse sides. $$$

870 Tchoupitoulas St., 525-8205, LaBocaSteaks.com. D Mon-Sat. This Argentine steakhouse specializes in cuts of meat along with pastas and wines. Specials include the provoleta appetizer and the Vacio flank steak. $$$

H Lüke World 333 St. Charles Ave., 3782840, LukeNewOrleans.com. B, L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Germanic specialties and French bistro classics, house-made pâtés and plateaux of cold, fresh seafood. $$$

H Cochon Louisianian Fare 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 588-2123, CochonRestaurant.com. L, D, Mon-Sat. Chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski feature Cajun and Southern cuisine. Boudin and other pork dishes reign supreme, along with Louisiana seafood and real moonshine Reservations recommended. $$

Manning’s AMERICAN 519 Fulton St., 5938118. L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. A partnership between New Orleans’ First Family of Football and Harrah’s Casino, Manning’s offers sports bar fans a step up, with a menu that draws on both New Orleans and the Deep South. $$$

H Desi Vega’s Steakhouse Steakhouse

St., 571-9580, MerchantNewOrleans.com. B, L daily. Coffee, creative crêpes, sandwiches and more are served at this sleek and contemporary café on the ground floor of the Merchant Building. $

628 St. Charles Ave., 523-7600, DesiVegaSteaks.com. L Mon-Fri, D Tue-Sat. USDA Prime steaks form the base of this menu, but Italian specialties and a smattering of locally inspired seafood dishes round out the appeal. $$$ Drago’s Louisianian Fare Hilton Riverside Hotel, 2 Poydras St., 584-3911, DragosRestaurant.com. L, D daily. This favorite specializes in charbroiled oysters, a dish they invented. Great deals on fresh lobster as well. $$$$

H Domenica Italian The Roosevelt Hotel, 123 Baronne St., 648-6020, DomenicaRestaurant.com. L, D daily. Authentic, regional Italian cuisine. The menu of thin, lightly topped pizzas, artisanal salumi and cheese, and a carefully chosen selection of antipasti, pasta and entrées features locally raised products. $$$$ Emeril’s Louisianian Fare 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 528-9393, EmerilsRestaurants.com. L Mon-Fri, D daily. The flagship of superstar chef Emeril Lagasse’s culinary empire, this landmark attracts pilgrims from all over the world. $$$$$ Gordon Biersch Gastropub 200 Poydras St., 552-2739, GordonBiersch.com. L, D daily. Local outpost of this popular chain serves specialty brews made on-site and crowd-

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H Merchant Bakery/Breakfast 800 Common

Morton’s The Steakhouse Steakhouse 365 Canal St., One Canal Place, 566-0221, Mortons.com/NewOrleans. D daily. Private elevator leads to the plush, wood-paneled environs of this local outpost of the famed Chicago steakhouse popular with politicians and celebrities. $$$$ Mother’s Louisianian Fare 401 Poydras St., 523-9656, MothersRestaurant.net. B, L, D daily. Locals and tourists alike endure long lines to enjoy iconic dishes such as the Ferdi poor boy and Jerry’s jambalaya. Come for a late lunch to avoid the rush. $$ Mulate’s Louisianian Fare 201 Julia St., 5221492, Mulates.com. L, D daily. Live music and dancing add to the fun at this world-famous Cajun destination. $$ Palace Café World 605 Canal St., 523-1661, PalaceCafe.com. B, L, D daily. Cassic New Orleans restaurant, the Dickie Brennan and Palace Cafe team evolve traditional Creol dishes. Enjoy specialty cocktails and small plates at the Black Duck Bar. $$$

H Pêche Seafood 800 Magazine St., 5221744, PecheRestaurant.com. L, D Mon-Sat.

$$$$$ = $25 & up

Award-winning southern-inspired seafood destination by Chef Donald Link serves whole roasted Gulf fish from its massive, wood-burning oven, and an excellent raw bar. $$$ Q&C Hotel/Bar AMERICAN 344 Camp St., 587-9700, QandC.com. B, D daily, L Fri-Sun. Boutique hotel bar offering a small plates menu with tempting choices such as a Short Rib Poor Boy and Lobster Mac and Cheese to complement their sophisticated craft cocktails. $$

HRed Gravy Bakery/Breakfast 4125 Camp St., 561-8844, RedGravy.com. B, Br, L, Wed-Mon. Farm-to-table brunch restaurant offers a creative array of items such as Cannoli Pancakes and Skillet Cakes, as well as delectable sandwiches and more. Homemade pastas and authentic Tuscan specialties round out the menu. $$ H Restaurant August AMERICAN 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 299-9777, RestaurantAugust.com. L Fri, D daily. James Beard Award-winning menu is based on classical techniques of Louisiana cuisine and produce with a splash of European flavor set in an historic carriage warehouse. $$$$$ Rock-N-Sake Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 823 Fulton St., 581-7253, RockNSake.com. L Fri, D Tue-Sun, late night Fri-Sat. Fresh sushi and contemporary takes on Japanese favorites in an upbeat, casual setting. $$$ Ruth’s Chris Steak House Steakhouse Harrah’s Hotel, 525 Fulton St., 587-7099, RuthsChris.com. D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Filet mignon, creamed spinach and potatoes au gratin are the most popular dishes at this steak institution. There are also great seafood choices and top-notch desserts. $$$$$ Sac-A-Lait Seafood 1051 Annunciation St., 324-3658, Sac-A-LaitRestaurant.com. D Tue-Sat, L Fri. Cody and Sam Carroll’s shrine to Gulf Coast and Louisiana culinary heritage melds seafood, game, artisan produce, and craft libations in an ambitious menu that celebrates local and southern cuisine. $$$$ The Grill AMERICAN 540 Chartres St., 522-1800. B, L, D daily. A diner with local character staffed by local characters. $ The Grill Room AMERICAN Windsor Court Hotel, 300 Gravier St., 522-6000, GrillRoomNewOrleans.com. B, L, D daily, Br Sun. Modern American cuisine with a distinctive New Orleans flair, the adjacent Polo Club Lounge offers live music nightly. Jazz Brunch on Sunday. $$$$$ Tommy’s Cuisine Italian 746 Tchoupitoulas St., 581-1103, TommysNewOrleans.com. D daily. Classic Creole-Italian cuisine is the name of the game at this upscale eatery. Appetizers include the namesake oysters Tommy, baked in the shell with Romano cheese, pancetta and roasted red pepper. $$$$$ Walk-On’s Bistreaux & Bar AMERICAN

1009 Poydras St., 309-6530, Walk-Ons. com. L, D, daily. Burger, sandwiches, wraps and more with a Louisiana twist are served at this sports bar near the Mercedes-Benz Superdome. $$ Warehouse Grille AMERICAN 869 Magazine St., 322-2188, WarehouseGrille.com. L, D daily, Br Fri-Sat. Creative fare served in an art-filled environment. Try the lamb spring rolls. $$ Victory Gastropub 339 Baronne St., 522-8664, VictoryNola.com. D daily. Craft cocktails served by owner and acclaimed bartender Daniel Victory, as well as refined small plates and gourmet pizza. $$ Central City Café Reconcile Louisiana fare 1631 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd., 568-1157, CafeReconcile. org. L Mon-Fri. Good food for a great cause, this nonprofit on the burgeoning OCH corridor helps train at-risk youth for careers in the food service industry. $$ Covington Don’s Seafood seafood 126 Lake Dr., (985) 327-7111, DonsSeafoodOnline.com. L, D Daily. Popular neighborhood seafood joint offers an array of crowd-pleasing south Louisiana dishes, including char-broiled oysters and Zydeco shrimp. Kid’s Menu makes it a good choice for families. $$$ Darrow Café Burnside Louisianian Fare Houmas House Plantation, 40136 Hwy. 942, (225) 473-9380, HoumasHouse.com. L daily, Br

Sun. Historic plantation’s casual dining option features dishes such as seafood pasta, fried catfish, crawfish and shrimp, gumbo and red beans and rice. $$ Latil’s Landing Louisianian Fare Houmas House Plantation, 40136 Hwy. 942, (225) 473-9380, HoumasHouse.com. D Wed-Sun. Nouvelle Louisiane cooking served in an opulent setting features dishes like rack of lamb and plume de veau. $$$$$ Faubourg Marigny Feelings Cafe, Bar and Courtyard Lounge Louisianian Fare 535 Franklin Ave, 446-0040, FeelingsCafeBar.com. D Tue-Sat, L Fri. The All New Feelings Marigny is a complete relaunch of the much beloved “Feelings Cafe”. Executive Chef Scott Maki has transformed the menu with an emphasis on contemporary Creole-Louisiana fare.$$$$ Langlois AMERICAN 1710 Pauger St., 934-1010, LangloisNola.com. L Fri-Sat, D Wed-Sun. *Reservations only Supper club and boutique cooking school in the Marigny serves up culturally informed, farm-to-table fare with the added bonus of instruction. Open kitchen and convivial atmosphere add up to a good time. $$$

H Mona’s Café World 504 Frenchmen St., 949-4115. L, D daily. Middle Eastern specialties such as baba ganuj, beef or chicken shawarma, falafel and gyros.The lentil soup and desserts, such as sticky sweet baklava, round out the menu. $

H Ruby Slipper Café Bakery/

Breakfast 2001 Burgundy St., 525-9355, TheRubySlipperCafe.net. B, L daily, Br Sun. Homegrown chain specializes in breakfast, lunch and brunch dishes with unique local twists such as bananas Foster French toast and barbecue shrimp and grits. $$ The Marigny Brasserie AMERICAN 640 Frenchmen St., 945-4472, MarignyBrasserie. com. L, D daily. Chic neighborhood bistro with traditional dishes like fried green tomatoes and innovative cocktails such as the cucumber Collins. $$$ Faubourg St. John H Café Degas French 3127 Esplanade Ave., 945-5635, CafeDegas.com. L, D Wed-Sat, Br Sun. Salad Niçoise, Hanger steak and frites are served in a lovely enclosed courtyard at this jewel of a French bistro. $$

H 1000 Figs World 3141 Ponce De Leon St., 301-0848, 1000Figs.com. L, D Tue-Sat. Vegetarian-friendly offshoot of the Fat Falafel Food Truck offers a healthy farm-totable alternative to cookie-cutter Middle Eastern places. $$ French Quarter Angeline AMERICAN 1032 Chartres St., 308-3106, AngelineNola.com. B Mon-Thu, D daily, Br Sat-Sun,. Modern southern with a fine dining focus is this bistro’s hallmark. Southern Fried Quail and Duck Confit Ravoli represent the style. $$$ Acme Oyster House Louisianian Fare 724 Iberville St., 522-5973, AcmeOyster.com. L, D daily. Known as one of the best places to

eat oysters. $$

H Arnaud’s Louisianian Fare 813 Bienville St., 523-5433, ArnaudsRestaurant.com. D daily, Br Sun. Waiters in tuxedos prepare Café Brûlot tableside at this storied Creole grande dame; live jazz during Sun. brunch. $$$$$ Arnaud’s Remoulade Italian 309 Bourbon St., 523-0377, Remoulade.com. L, D daily. Home of the eclectic menu of famous shrimp Arnaud, red beans and rice and poor boys as well as specialty burgers, grilled allbeef hot dogs and thin-crust pizza. $$ Antoine’s Louisianian Fare 713 St. Louis St., 581-4422, Antoines.com. L, D Mon-Sat, Br Sun. This pinnacle of haute cuisine and birthplace of oysters Rockefeller is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant. (Every item is à la carte, with an $11 minimum.) Private dining rooms available. $$$$$ Antoine’s Annex Specialty Foods 513 Royal St., 525-8045, Antoines.com/AntoinesAnnex. Open daily. Serves French pastries, including individual baked Alaskas, ice cream and gelato, as well as panini, salads and coffee. Delivery available. BB King’s Blues Club Barbecue 1104 Decatur St., 934-5464, BBKings.com/neworleans. L, D daily. New Orleans outpost of music club named for the famed blues musician with a menu loaded with BBQ and southern specialties. Live music and late hours are a big part of the fun. $$$ Bayou Burger Burgers 503 Bourbon St.,

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529-4256, SportsBarNewOrleans.com. L, D daily. Sports bar in the thick of Bourbon Street scene distinguishes its fare with choices like Crawfish Beignets and Gator Bites. $$

BourbonHouse.com. B, L, D daily, Br Sun. Classic Creole dishes, such as redfish on the halfshell, and an Oyster Bar. Its extensive bourbon menu will please aficionados. $$$$

Bourbon House Seafood 144 Bourbon St., 522-0111, BourbonHouse.com. B, L, D daily, Br Sun. Local seafood, featured in both classic and contemporary dishes, is the focus of this New Orleans-centric destination. And yes, bourbon is offered as well. $$$

Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse Steakhouse 716 Iberville St., 522-2467, DickieBrennansSteakhouse.com. L Fri, D daily. Nationally recognized steakhouse serves USDA Prime steaks and local seafood. Validated Parking next door. $$$$

Bayona World 430 Dauphine St., 5254455, Bayona.com. L Wed-Sat, D Mon-Sat. Chef Susan Spicer’s nationally acclaimed cuisine is served in this 200-year-old cottage. Ask for a seat on the romantic patio, weather permitting. $$$$$

620 Chartres St., 267-3500, DorisMetropolitan.com. L Fri-Sun, D daily. Innovative steakhouse plays with expectations and succeeds with modernist dishes like their Classified Cut and Beetroot Supreme. $$$$

Broussard’s French 819 Conti St., 581-3866, Broussards.com. D daily, Br Sun. Creole-French institution also offers beautiful courtyard seating. $$$$

El Gato Negro World 81 French Market Place, 525-9752, ElGatoNegroNola.com. L, D daily. Central Mexican cuisine along with hand-muddled mojitos and margaritas made with freshly squeezed juice. A weekend breakfast menu is an additional plus. $$

H Cane & Table Gastropub 1113 Decatur St., 581-1112, CaneAndTableNola.com. L Fri, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Open late, this chefdriven rustic colonial cuisine with rum and “proto-Tiki” cocktails make this a fun place to gather. $$ Chartres House Italian 601 Chartres St., 586-8383, ChartresHouse.com. L, D daily. This iconic French Quarter bar serves terrific Mint Juleps and Gin Fizzes in its picturesque courtyard and balcony settings. Also famous for its fried green tomatoes and other local favorite dishes. $$$ Court of Two Sisters Louisianian Fare 613 Royal St., 522-7261, CourtOfTwoSisters. com. Br, D daily. The historic environs make for a memorable outdoor dining experience. The famous daily Jazz Brunch buffet and classic Creole dishes sweeten the deal. $$$$$ Criollo Louisianian Fare Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 681-4444, CriolloNola. com. B, L, D daily. Next to the famous Carousel Bar in the historic Monteleone Hotel, Criollo represents an amalgam of the various Louisiana cultures, with a contemporary twist. $$$ Crazy Lobster Seafood 500 Port of New Orleans Place, Suite 83, 569-3380, TheCrazyLobster.com. L, D daily. Boiled seafood and festive atmosphere come together at this seafood-centric destination overlooking the Mississippi River. Outdoor seating a plus. $$$ Creole Cookery Seafood 508 Toulouse St., Suite C110, 524-9632, NewOrleansCreoleCookery.com. L, D daily. Crowd-pleasing destination in the French Quarter offers an expansive menu of Creole favorites and specialty cocktails served with New Orleans flair. $$$

By Mirella Cameran

Galatoire’s Louisianian Fare 209 Bourbon St., 525-2021, Galatoires.com. L, D Tue-Sun. Friday lunches are a New Orleans tradition at this world-famous French-Creole grand dame. Tradition counts for everything here, and the crabmeat Sardou is delicious. Note: Jackets required for dinner and all day Sun. $$$$$

H GW Fins Seafood 808 Bienville St., 581-FINS (3467), GWFins.com. D daily. Owners Gary Wollerman and twice chef of the year Tenney Flynn provide dishes at their seasonal peak. On a quest for unique variety, menu is printed daily. $$$$$ Galatoire’s 33 Bar & Steak Steakhouse 215 Bourbon St., 335-3932, Galatoires33BarAndSteak.com. L Fri, D Sun-Thu. Steakhouse offshoot of the venerable Creole grande dame offers hand-crafted cocktails and classic steakhouse fare and inspired dishes. Reservations accepted. $$$ Hard Rock Café AMERICAN 125 Bourbon St., 529-5617, HardRock.com. L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Local outpost of this global brand serves burgers, café fare and drinks in their rock memorabilia-themed environs. $$ House of Blues Louisianian Fare 225 Decatur St., 310-4999, HouseOfBlues. com/NewOrleans. L, D daily. Good menu complements music in the main room. World-famous Gospel Brunch every Sunday. Patio seating available. $$ Irene’s Cuisine Italian 539 St. Philip St., 529-8881. D Mon-Sat. Long waits at the lively piano bar are part of the appeal of this Creole-Italian favorite beloved by locals. Try the oysters Irene and crabmeat gratin appetizers. $$$$

H Italian Barrel Italian 430 Barracks St., 569-0198, ItalianBarrel.com. L, D daily. Northern Italian dishes like Braciola di Maiale as well as an exhaustive pasta menu tempt at this local favorite that also offers al fresco seating. $$$

H Dickie Brennan’s Bourbon House Seafood 144 Bourbon St., 522-0111,

Killer Poboys Louisianian Fare 811 Conti St., 252-6745, KillerPoboys.blogspot.com.

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GAME DAY CAJUN COOKERY

H Doris Metropolitan Steakhouse

Deanie’s Seafood Seafood 841 Iberville St., 581-1316, Deanies.com. L, D daily. Louisiana seafood, baked, broiled, boiled and fried is the name of the game. Try the barbecue shrimp or towering seafood platters. $$$

restaurant spotlight

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New Orleans Cajun Cookery has always been a fun and lively spot in the heart of the French Quarter. Open 7 a.m. until 9 p.m. every day, the breakfast, lunch and dinner menus are populated with perennial favorites such as chicken and waffles, burgers, shrimp poorboys and shrimp ettoufee. A new large screen TV and new game day menus make it a great spot during football season to gather together and see the Saints win. Local beers join a robust bar menu and specials, such as the Bacon Bloody Mary, are favorites with regulars. 719 S. Peters Street, 302-7496.

cheryl gerber photo

L, D Wed-Mon. This quasi-popup operating out of the Erin Rose Bar serves some of the city’s best poor boys. $

restaurant – unless you’re cocktailing only, then it’s all about the Monsoons. $$

K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen Louisianian Fare 416 Chartres St., 596-2530, ChefPaul.

Bienville St., 553-2277, RevolutionNola.com. L Fri, D daily, Br Sun. An opulent place that combines the local flavors of chef John Folse with the cosmopolitan influence of chef Rick Tramonto. Chef de cuisine Jana Billiot and executive sous chef Gabriel Beard are in charge of day-to-day operations, which include house-made charcuterie, pastries, pastas and more. $$$$$

com/KPaul. L Thu-Sat, D Mon-Sat. Paul Prudhomme’s landmark restaurant helped introduce Cajun food to the nation. Lots of seasoning and bountiful offerings, along with reserved seating, make this a destination for locals and tourists alike. $$$$

H Kingfish Seafood 337 Charters St., 5985005, KingfishNewOrleans.com. L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Regionally inspired seafood dishes with carefully sourced ingredients and southern influence is the focus at this chefdriven French Quarter establishment. $$$ Le Bayou Seafood 208 Bourbon St., 5254755, LeBayouRestaurant.com. L, D daily. Blackened redfish and Shrimp Ya-Ya are a just a few of the choices at this seafoodcentric destination on Bourbon Street. $$$

H Marti’s French 1041 Dumaine St., 5225478, MartisNola.com. L Fri, D daily. Classic French cuisine, small plates and chilled seafood platters like Grand Plateau Fruits De Mer are the calling cards for this restaurant with elegant “Old World” feel. $$$ Muriel’s Jackson Square Italian 801 Chartres St., 568-1885, Muriels.com. L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Enjoy local classics while dining in the courtyard bar or any other room in this labyrinthine, rumored-to-behaunted establishment. $$$$ Napoleon House Italian 500 Chartres St., 524-9752, NapoleonHouse.com. L Mon-Sat, D Tue-Sat. Originally built in 1797 as a respite for Napoleon, this family-owned Europeanstyle café serves local favorites gumbo, jambalaya and muffulettas. A Sazerac or Pimm’s Cup are perfect accompaniments. $$ NOLA Louisianian Fare 534 St. Louis St., 522-6652, EmerilsRestaurants.com/NolaRestaurant. L Thu-Mon, D daily. Emeril’s more affordable eatery, featuring cedar-plankroasted redfish; private dining. $$$$$ Oceana Grill Seafood 739 Conti St., 5256002, OceanaGrill.com. B, L, D daily. Gumbo, poor boys and barbecue shrimp are served at this kid-friendly seafood destination. $$ Orleans Grapevine Wine Bar and Bistro Gastropub 720 Orleans Ave., 523-1930, OrleansGrapevine.com. D daily. Wine is the muse at this bistro, which offers vino by the flight, glass and bottle. A classic menu with an emphasis on local cuisine. $$$

H Patrick’s Bar Vin Gastropub 730 Bienville St., 200-3180, PatricksBarVin.com. D daily. This oasis of a wine bar offers terrific selections by the bottle and glass. Small plates are served as well. $$ Pier 424 Seafood 424 Bourbon St., 309-1574, Pier424SeafoodMarket.com. L, D daily. Seafood-centric restaurant offers long menu of traditional New Orleans fare augmented by unusual twists like “Cajun-Boiled” Lobster. $$$ Port of Call Burgers 838 Esplanade Ave., 523-0120, PortOfCallNola.com. L, D daily. It is all about the big, meaty burgers and giant baked potatoes in this popular bar/

H Restaurant R’evolution Italian 777

Ralph Brennan’s Red Fish Grill Italian 115 Bourbon St., 598-1200, RedFishGrill.com. L, D daily. Chef Austin Kirzner cooks up a broad menu peppered with local favorites such as barbecue oysters, blackened redfish and double-chocolate bread pudding. $$$$$ Rib Room AMERICAN Omni Royal Orleans Hotel, 621 St. Louis St., 529-7046, RibRoomNewOrleans.com. B, D daily, L Mon-Sat, Br Sun. Old World elegance, house classic cocktails and Anthony Spizale’s broad menu of prime rib, stunning seafood and on Sundays a jazz brunch. $$$ Richard Fiske’s Martini Bar & Restaurant Louisianian Fare 301 Dauphine St., 586-0972, RichardFiskes.com. B, Bar Lunch daily. Just a few steps off of Bourbon Street is this relaxing bar featuring an innovative menu with dishes like Crawfish, Jalapeno-andBacon Mac and Cheese garnished with fried oysters. Live music a plus. $$$ Royal House Louisianian Fare 441 Royal St., 528-2601, RoyalHouseRestaurant.com. L, D daily. B Sat and Sun. Poor boys, jambalaya and shrimp Creole are some of the favorites served here. Weekend breakfast and an oyster bar add to the crowd-pleasing appeal. $$$ SoBou Louisianian Fare 310 Chartres St., 552-4095, SoBouNola.com. B, L, D daily. There is something for everyone at this “Modern Creole Saloon.” Decidedly unstuffy with an emphasis on craft cocktails and wines by the glass. Everything from $1 pork cracklins to an extravagant foie gras burger on an accomplished yet eclectic menus. $$

H Tableau Louisianian Fare 616 S. Peter St., 934-3463, TableauFrenchQuarter.com. B Mon-Fri, L Mon-Sat, D daily, Brunch Sat-Sun. Gulf seafood such as Redfish Bienville and classic Creole brunch dishes like eggs Hussard are the highlights of this Dickie Brennan restaurant that shares space with Le Petite Théâtre. $$$

H The Bistreaux Louisianian Fare New Orleans Maison Dupuy Hotel, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000, MaisonDupuy.com/ dining.html. B, L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Dishes ranging from the casual (truffle mac and cheese) to the upscale (tuna tasting trio) are served in an elegant courtyard. $$ The Bombay Club Louisianian Fare Prince Conti Hotel, 830 Conti St., 577-2237, TheBombayClub.com. D daily. Popular martini bar with plush British décor features live music during the week and late dinner and drinks on weekends. Nouveau Creole menu includes items such as Bombay drum. $$$$ The Pelican Club AMERICAN 312 Exchange Place, 523-1504, PelicanClub.com. D daily.

Serves an eclectic mix of hip food, from the seafood “martini” to clay-pot barbecued shrimp and a trio of duck. Three dining rooms available. $$$$$

H Tujague’s Louisianian Fare 823 Decatur St., 525-8676, TujaguesRestaurant.com. L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. For more than 150 years this landmark restaurant has been offering Creole cuisine. Favorites include a nightly sixcourse table d’hôté menu featuring a unique beef brisket with Creole sauce. $$$$$ Garden District Cheesecake Bistro by Copeland’s AMERICAN 2001 St. Charles Ave., 593-9955, CopelandsCheesecakeBistro.com. L Mon-Fri, D daily, Br Sun. Shiny, contemporary bistro serves Cajun-fusion fare along with its signature decadent desserts. Good lunch value to boot. $$ District Donuts Sliders Brew AMERICAN 2209 Magazine Street, 570-6945, DonutsAndSliders.com. B, L, D daily. Creative sliders (hello, pork belly) and super-creative donuts (think root beer float) are the hallmarks of this next-generation café. $ Hoshun Restaurant Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 1601 St. Charles Ave., 302-9716, HoshunRestaurant.com. L, D daily. A wide variety of Asian cuisines, primarily dishes culled from China, Japan, Thailand and Malaysia. Private dining rooms available. $$

H Mr. John’s Steakhouse Steakhouse 2111 St. Charles Ave., 679-7697, MrJohnsSteakhouse.com. D Tue-Sat, L Fri-Sat. Wood paneling, white tile and USDA Prime Beef served sizzling in butter are the hallmarks of this classic New Orleans steakhouse. $$$ Gretna H Tan Dinh Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 1705 Lafayette St., 361-8008. B, L, D daily. Roasted quail and the beef pho rule at this Vietnamese outpost. $$ Harahan

H Oak Oven Italian 6625 Jefferson Highway, Harahan, 305-4039, OakOvenRestaurant.com. L, D Mon-Sat. Wood-fired pizza and seasonal Italian cuisine with a locavore philosophy brings respite to the burbs. Family friendly with patio seating to boot. $$ Kenner H Fiesta Latina World 1924 Airline Drive, 469-5792, FiestaLatinaRestaurant.com. B, L, D daily. A big-screen TV normally shows a soccer match or MTV Latino at this home for authentic Central American food. Tacos include a charred carne asada. $$ Lacombe H La Provence French 25020 Highway 190, (985) 626-7662, LaProvenceRestaurant.com. D Wed-Sun, Br Sun. Time-honored Provençal cuisine rewards guests with a true farm-life experience, from house-made preserves, charcuterie, herbs, kitchen gardens and eggs cultivated on the property. $$$$$ Lakeview H Cava Louisianian Fare 789 Harrison Ave., 304-9034. D daily. Fine dining (and excellent wine list) at this high-end Cajun and Creole restaurant that makes customer service a big

part of the experience. $$$ Lakeview Harbor Burgers 911 Harrison Ave., 486-4887. L, D daily. Burgers are the name of the game at this restaurant. Daily specials, pizza and steaks are offered as well. $ Lakeview Pearl Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 6300 Canal St., 309-5711, LakeviewPearl. com. L, D Mon-Sat. A long list of specialty rolls rounds out the offerings of this AsianFusion restaurant. $$

H Mondo World 900 Harrison Ave., 2242633, MondoNewOrleans.com. L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat, Br Sun. Chef Susan Spicer’s take on world cuisine. This place has a deserved reputation for good food and good times. $$$ Lower Garden District

H The Green Fork Vegan/Vegetarian 1400 Prytania St., 267-7672, GreenForkNola.com. B, L Mon-Sat. Fresh juices, smoothies and vegetarian-friendly fare make The Green Fork a favorite for lovers of healthy food. Catering is offered as well. $$ The Tasting Room Gastropub 1906 Magazine St., 581-3880, TTRNewOrleans. com. D Tue-Sun. Flights of wine and sophisticated small plates are the calling cards for this wine bar. $$ Voodoo BBQ Barbecue 1501 St. Charles Ave., 522-4647, VoodooBBQAndGrill.com. L, D daily. Diners are never too far from this homegrown barbecue chain that features an array of specialty sauces to accompany its smoked meats and seafood. $$ Metairie H Andrea’s Restaurant Italian 3100 19th St., 834-8583, AndreasRestaurant.com. L Mon-Sat, D daily, Br Sun. Osso buco and homemade pastas in a setting that’s both elegant and intimate; off-premise catering. $$$ Acme Oyster House Louisianian Fare 3000 Veterans Blvd., 309-4056, AcmeOyster.com. L, D daily. Known as one of the best places to eat oysters. $$ Austin’s Louisianian Fare 5101 W. Esplanade Ave., 888-5533, AustinsNo.com. D Mon-Sat. Mr. Ed’s upscale bistro serves contemporary Creole fare, including seafood and steaks. $$$ Boulevard American Bistro AMERICAN 4241 Veterans Memorial Blvd., 889-2301. L, D daily. Classic American cuisine including steaks, chops and more is augmented by regional favorites like Boulevard Oysters at this Metairie bistro. $$$ café B AMERICAN 2700 Metairie Road, 9344700, cafeB.com. D daily, L Mon-Fri. Br Sun. Ralph Brennan offers New American bistro fare with a Louisiana twist at this familyfriendly neighborhood spot. $$$ Caffe! Caffe! AMERICAN 3547 N. Hullen St., 267-9190. B, L Mon-Sat. & 4301 Clearview Parkway, 885-4845. B, L daily; D Mon-Sat. CaffeCaffe.com Healthy, refreshing meal options, and gourmet coffee and espresso drinks create a tasteful retreat for Metairie diners at a reasonable price. $ Crabby Jack’s Louisianian Fare 428 Jefferson Highway, 833-2722, CrabbyJacksNola.com. my ne w orleans . co m

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L Mon-Sat. Lunch outpost of Jacques-Imo’s. Famous for its fried seafood and poor boys including fried green tomatoes and roasted duck. $ Deanie’s Seafood Seafood 1713 Lake Ave., 831-4141, Deanies.com. L, D daily. Louisiana seafood, baked, broiled, boiled and fried, is the name of the game. Try the barbecue shrimp or towering seafood platters. $$$ Don’s Seafood seafood 4801 Veterans Memorial Blvd., 889-1550, DonsSeafoodOnline.com. L, D Daily. Metairie outpost of historic local seafood chain that dates from 1934. Features an array of Cajun and seafood classics like their original ‘Jacked Up’ Oysters and seafood platters. Don’t miss their happy hour specials. $$$ Drago’s Louisianian Fare 3232 N. Arnoult Road, 888-9254, DragosRestaurant.com. L, D Mon-Sat. This favorite specializes in charbroiled oysters, a dish they invented. Great deals on fresh lobster as well. $$$$ Heritage Grill AMERICAN 111 Veterans Memorial Blvd., 934-4900, HeritageGrillMetairie.com. L Mon-Fri. This lunch-only destination caters to the office crowd offers an express two-course lunch along with its regular menu. $$ Martin Wine Cellar AMERICAN 714 Elmeer Ave., 896-7300, MartinWineCellar.com. Wine by the glass or bottle to go with daily lunch specials, burgers, soups, salads and deli-style sandwiches. $ Mr. Ed’s Seafood and Italian Restaurant Seafood 1001 Live Oak St., 838-0022, AustinsNo.com. L, D Mon-Sat. Neighborhood restaurant specializes in seafood and Italian offerings such as stuffed eggplant and bell pepper. Fried seafood and sandwiches make it a good stop for lunch. $$

H Royal China Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 600 Veterans Blvd., 831-9633. L daily, D Tue-Sun. Popular and family-friendly Chinese restaurant is one of the few places around that serves dim sum. $$ Ruth’s Chris Steak House Steakhouse 3633 Veterans Blvd., 888-3600, RuthsChris.com. L Fri, D daily. Filet mignon, creamed spinach and potatoes au gratin are the most popular dishes at this steak institution, and great seafood choices and top-notch desserts. $$$$$ Sucré Specialty Foods 3301 Veterans Blvd., 834-2277, ShopSucre.com. Desserts daily. Open late weekends. Chocolates, pastry and gelato draw rave reviews at this dessert destination. Beautiful packaging makes this a great place to shop for gifts. Catering available. Vincent’s Italian Cuisine Italian 4411 Chastant St., 885-2984, Metairie, VicentsItalianCuisine.com. L Tue-Fri, D Mon-Sat. Snug Italian boîte packs them in, yet manages to remain intimate at the same time. The cannelloni is a house specialty. $$$ Voodoo BBQ Barbecue 2740 Severn Ave., 353-4227, VoodooBBQAndGrill.com. L, D daily. Diners are never too far from this 88

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homegrown barbecue chain that features an array of specialty sauces to accompany its smoked meats and seafood. $$ Mid-City H Blue Dot Donuts Specialty Foods 4301 Canal St., 218-4866, BlueDotDonuts.com. B, L Tue-Sun. The Bacon Maple Long John gets all the press, but returning customers are happy with the classics as well as twists like peanut butter and jelly.

restaurant spotlight New Fall Offerings At Red Gravy By Mirella Cameran

H Café Minh Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 4139 Canal St., 482-6266, CafeMinh.com. L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat. Chef Minh Bui and Cynthia Vutran bring fusion to Vietnamese cuisine with French accents and a contemporary flair. $$

H Crescent City Steaks Steakhouse 1001 N. Broad St., 821-3271, CrescentCitySteaks.com. L Tue-Fri & Sun, D Tue-Sun. One of the classic New Orleans steakhouses. Steaks, sides and drinks are what you get. $$$$ Five Happiness Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 3605 S. Carrollton Ave., 482-3935, FiveHappiness.com. L, D daily. This longtime Chinese favorite offers up an extensive menu including its beloved mu shu pork and house-baked duck. $$ Gracious Bakery + Café Bakery/Breakfast 1000 S. Jeff Davis Parkway, Suite 100, 301-3709, GraciousBakery.com. B, L daily. Boutique bakery offers small-batch coffee, baked goods, individual desserts and sandwiches on breads made in-house. Catering options available. $ Juan’s Flying Burrito World 4724 S. Carrollton Ave., 486-9950, JuansFlyingBurrito.com. L, D daily. Hardcore tacos and massive burritos are served in an edgy atmosphere. $

H Katie’s Restaurant and Bar Louisianian Fare 3701 Iberville St., 488-6582, KatiesInMidCity.com. L, D Mon-Sat, Br Sun. Creative poor boys, local dishes such as gumbo and Sunday brunch make this a neighborhood favorite. $$

H Liuzza’s Italian 3636 Bienville St., 482-9120, Liuzzas.com. L, D daily. Classic neighborhood joint serves favorites like the “Frenchuletta,” stuffed artichokes and andouille gumbo. Kid’s menu offered. $$ H Mandina’s Louisianian Fare 3800 Canal St., 482-9179, MandinasRestaurant.com. L, D daily. Though the ambiance is more upscale, the food and seafood dishes make dining here a New Orleans experience. $$

H Mona’s Café World 3901 Banks St., 482-7743. L, D daily. Middle Eastern specialties such as baba ganuj, beef or chicken shawarma, falafel and gyros. The lentil soup and desserts, such as sticky sweet baklava, round out the menu. $

H MoPho Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 514 City Park Ave., 482-6845, MoPhoNola.com. L, D Wed-Mon. Vietnamese cuisine meets southern Louisiana in this upscale casual hybrid by chef Michael Gulotta. Mix-andmatch pho and an interesting poor boy menu rounds out the appeal. $$$

Roseann Melisi Rostoker has been cooking and, as she likes to say, “feeding” people her entire life. In her comfortable, casual cafe, Red Gravy, she has also won awards for being one of the best places for brunch in America. Recipes handed down through generations are lovingly prepared by hand using local ingredients. As the seasons change, the menu does as well. This fall, new dishes will include brisket poutine and handmade ricotta gnocchi with butternut squash and sage served over bacon and eggs. There will also be six new sliders and a new skillet cake with bacon, sautéed apples, cinnamon and cheddar. Open 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Wednesday through Monday, a visit to Roseann is always worth it. 125 Camp Street, 561-8844, RedGravyCafe.com.

Parkway Bakery and Tavern AMERICAN 538 Hagan Ave., 482-3047,

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ParkwayPoorBoys.com. L, D Wed-Mon. Featured on national TV and having served poor boys to presidents, it stakes a claim to some of the best sandwiches in town. Their french fry version with gravy and cheese is a classic at a great price. $ Ralph’s On The Park Italian 900 City Park Ave., 488-1000, RalphsOnThePark.com. Br Sun, L Tue-Fri, D daily. A modern interior and contemporary Creole dishes such as City Park salad, turtle soup, barbecue Gulf shrimp and good cocktails. $$$$

H Ruby Slipper Café Bakery/Breakfast 139 S. Cortez St., 525-9355, TheRubySlipperCafe. net. B, L daily, Br Sun. Homegrown chain specializes in breakfast, lunch and brunch dishes with unique local twists such as bananas Foster French toast and barbecue shrimp and grits. $$

H Taqueria Guerrero World 208 N. Carrollton Ave., 484-6959. B, L, D, Tue-Sat. Friendly staff and authentic Mexican cuisine make this affordable neighborhood restaurant a neighborhood favorite. BYOB $

H Toups’ Meatery Louisianian Fare 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 252-4999, ToupsMeatery. com. L, D Tue-Sat. Charcuterie, specialty cocktails and an exhaustive list of excellent à la carte sides make this restaurant a carnivore’s delight. $$$ Trèo Gastropub 3835 Tulane Ave., 304-4878, TreoNola.com. L Fri-Sat, D daily. Craft cocktail bar also serves a short but excellent small plates menu to accompany its artfully

composed libations. $$

oysters both charbroiled and raw. $$$

Multiple Locations Byblos World Multiple Locations, ByblosRestaurants.com. L, D daily. Upscale Middle Eastern cuisine featuring traditional seafood, lamb and vegetarian options. $$

Reginelli’s Pizzeria pizza Multiple Locations, Reginellis.com. L, D daily. Pizzas, pastas, salads, fat calzones and lofty focaccia sandwiches are at locations all over town. $$

Tyler St., (985) 892-9992, GallaghersGrill. com. L, D Tue-Sat. Chef Pat Gallagher’s destination restaurant offers al fresco seating to accompany classically inspired New Orleans fare. Event catering offered. $$$

Theo’s Pizza Multiple Locations, TheosPizza.com. L, D daily. The crackercrisp crust pizzas are complemented by a broad assortment of toppings with local ingredients at cheap prices. $$

Riverbend H Ba Chi Canteen Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 7900 Maple St., 373-5628. L, D Mon-Sat. The kitchen plays fast and loose with Vietnamese fare at this eclectic outpost on Maple Street. Try the caramelized pork “Baco”. $

CC’s Coffee House Bakery/Breakfast Multiple locations in New Orleans, Metairie and Northshore, CCsCoffee.com. Coffeehouse specializing in coffee, espresso drinks and pastries. $

Zea’s Rotisserie and Grill AMERICAN Multiple Locations, ZeaRestaurants.com. L, D daily. Drawing from a wide range of worldly influences, this popular spot serves a variety of grilled items, appetizers, salads, side dishes, seafood, pasta and other entrées. Catering services available. $$$

H Boucherie Louisianian Fare 1506 S. Carrollton Ave., 862-5514, Boucherie-Nola. com. L Tue-Sat, D Mon-Sat, Br Sun. Serving contemporary Southern food with an international angle, chef Nathaniel Zimet offers excellent ingredients presented simply. $$

Copeland’s Louisianian Fare Multiple Locations, CopelandsofNewOrleans.com. L, D daily, Br Sun. Al Copeland’s namesake chain includes favorites such as Shrimp Ducky. Popular for lunch. $$

Northshore Acme Oyster House Louisianian Fare 1202 N. Highway 190, Covington, (985) 246-6155, AcmeOyster.com. L, D daily. Known as one of the best places to eat oysters. $$

Brigtsen’s Louisianian Fare 723 Dante St., 861-7610, Brigtsens.com. D Tue-Sat. Chef Frank Brigtsen’s nationally famous Creole cuisine makes this cozy cottage a true foodie destination. $$$$$

Little Tokyo Asian Fusion/Pan Asian Multiple locations, LittleTokyoNola.com. L, D daily. Multiple locations of this popular Japanese sushi and hibachi chain make sure that there’s always a specialty roll within easy reach. $$

Dakota AMERICAN 629 N. Highway 190, (985) 892-3712, TheDakotaRestaurant.com. L Tue-Fri, D M on-Sat. A sophisticated dining experience with generous portions. $$$$$

HCarrollton Market AMERICAN 8132

Café du Monde Bakery/Breakfast Multiple Locations, CafeDuMonde.com. This New Orleans institution has been serving fresh café au lait, rich hot chocolate and positively addictive beignets since 1862 in the French Market 24/7. $

Mr. Ed’s Oyster Bar & Fish House Seafood Multiple Locations, MrEdsRestaurants. com/oyster-bar. L, D daily. A seafood lover’s paradise offers an array of favorites like shrimp Creole, crawfish etouffée, blackened redfish and more. A raw bar featuring gulf

H Del Porto Ristorante Italian

Hampson St., 252-9928, CarrolltonMarket. com. L Sat-Sun, D Tue-Sat. Modern Southern cuisine manages to be both fun and refined at this tasteful boîte. $$$

501 E. Boston St., (985) 875-1006, DelPortoRistorante.com. L, D Tue-Sat. One of the Northshore’s premier fine dining destinations serving Italian food that makes use of locally sourced meats and produce. $$$

729 Burdette St., 872-9628. B, L daily, D Mon-Sat. Thai food and breakfast favorites like waffles and pancakes can both be had at this affordable college-friendly hangout. $

Gallagher’s Grill Louisianian Fare 509 S.

H Cowbell Burgers 8801 Oak St., 298-8689,

H Chill Out Café Asian Fusion/Pan Asian

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Cowbell-Nola.com. L, D Tue-Sat. Burgers and homemade sauces on potato rolls are the specialty here, along with other favorites. $$ Upper 9th Ward St. Roch Market Louisianian Fare 2381 St. Claude Ave., 615-6541, StRochMarket.com. B, L, D daily. Historic St. Claude Marketplace with open dining space houses a broad collection of independent eateries including craft cocktails and more. $$

been a favorite of locals for years. $$$ Commander’s Palace Louisianian Fare 1403 Washington Ave., 899-8221, CommandersPalace.com. L Mon-Fri, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. The grande dame is going strong under the auspices of James Beard Awardwinner chef Tory McPhail. Jazz Brunch is a great deal. $$$$

H Coquette French 2800 Magazine St.,

Chef John Harris’ innovative menu draws discerning diners to this highly regarded bistro. Desserts are wonderful as well. $$$$$

H Magasin Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 4201 Magazine St., 896-7611, MagasinCafe.com. L, D Mon-Sat. Pho, banh mi and vegetarian options are offered at this attractive and budget-friendly Vietnamese restaurant. Café sua da is available as well. $

265-0421, CoquetteNola.com. L Fri, D daily, Br Sun. The food is French in inspiration and technique, with added imagination from the chefs. $$$

Martin Wine Cellar AMERICAN 3827 Baronne St., 899-7411, MartinWine.com. Wine by the glass or bottle with cheeses, salads, sandwiches and snacks. $

Dick and Jenny’s Louisianian Fare 4501 Tchoupitoulas St., 894-9880, DickAndJennys.com. D Mon-Sat. A funky cottage serving Louisiana comfort food with flashes of innovation. $$$$

H Panchita’s World 1434 S. Carrollton Ave.,

H Apolline Louisianian Fare 4729 Magazine St., 894-8881, ApollineRestaurant.com. D Tue-Sun, Br Sat-Sun. Cozy gem serves a refined menu of French and Creole classics peppered with Southern influences. $$$

Domilise’s Louisianian Fare 5240 Annunciation St., 899-912. L, D Mon-Sat. Local institution and rite-of-passage for those wanting an initiation to the real New Orleans. Wonderful poor boys and a unique atmosphere make this a one-of-a-kind place. $

Audubon Clubhouse AMERICAN 6500 Magazine St., 212-5282, AudubonInstitute. org. B, L Tue-Sat, Br Sun. A kid-friendly menu with local tweaks and a casually upscale sandwich and salad menu. $$

Frankie & Johnny’s Seafood 321 Arabella St., 243-1234, FrankieAndJohnnys.net. L, D daily. Serves fried and boiled seafood along with poor boys and daily lunch specials. Kid-friendly. $$

Pascal’s Manale Italian 1838 Napoleon Ave., 895-4877, PascalsManale.com. L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat. A neighborhood favorite since 1913 and the place to go for the creation of barbecued shrimp. Its oyster bar serves freshly shucked Louisiana oysters and the Italian specialties and steaks are also solid. $$$$

Bouligny Tavern Gastropub 3641 Magazine St., 891-1810, BoulignyTavern.com. D Mon-Sat. Carefully curated small plates, inventive cocktails and select wines are the focus of this stylish offshoot of John Harris’s nationally acclaimed Lilette. $$

H Gautreau’s Louisianian Fare 1728 Soniat

Uptown Amici Italian 3218 Magazine St., 300-1250, AmiciNola.com. L, D daily. Coal-fired pizza, with an impressive list of authentic and Creole Italian specialties as well. $$

H Ancora pizza 4508 Freret St., 324-1636, AncoraPizza.com. D daily. Authentic Neapolitan-style pizza fired in an oven imported from Naples. The housemade charcuterie makes it a double-winner. $$

H Café Abyssinia World 3511 Magazine St., 894-6238. L, D daily. One of a just few authentic Ethiopian restaurants in the city, excellent injera and spicy vegetarian fare make this a local favorite. $$

St., 899-7397, GautreausRestaurant.com. D Mon-Sat. Upscale destination serves refined interpretations of classics along with contemporary creations. $$$$$ Jacques-Imo’s Cafe Louisianian Fare 8324 Oak St., 861-0886, Jacques-Imos.com. D MonSat. Reinvented New Orleans cuisine served in a party atmosphere. The deep-fried roast beef poor boy is delicious. The lively bar scene offsets the long wait on weekends. $$$$

Camellia Grill AMERICAN 626 S. Carrollton Ave., 309-2679. B, L, D daily. A venerable diner whose essential character has remained intact and many of the original waiters have returned. Credit cards are now accepted. $

Juan’s Flying Burrito 2018 Magazine St., 569-0000, JuansFlyingBurrito.com. L, D daily. Hard-core tacos and massive burritos are served in an edgy atmosphere. $

Casamento’s Louisianian Fare 4330 Magazine St., 895-9761, CasamentosRestaurant.com. L Thu-Sat, D Thu-Sun. The family-owned restaurant has shucked oysters and fried seafood since 1919; closed during summer and for all major holidays. $$

JungsChinese.com. L, D daily. This Chinese destination is a real find. One of the few local Chinese places that breaks the Americanized mold. $

Chiba Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 8312 Oak St., 826-9119, Chiba-Nola.com. L Wed-Sat, D Mon-Sat. Contemporary restaurant features fresh, exotic fish from all over the world and fusion fare to go along with typical Japanese options. Extensive sake list and late night happy hours are a plus. $$$ Clancy’s Louisianian Fare 6100 Annunciation St., 895-1111, ClancysNewOrleans.com. L ThuFri, D Mon-Sat. Their Creole-inspired menu has

H Jung’s Golden Dragon Asian Fusion/ Pan Asian 3009 Magazine St., 891-8280,

H La Crêpe Nanou French 1410 Robert St., 899-2670, LaCrepeNanou.com. D daily, Br Sun. Classic French bistro fare, including terrific moules and decadent dessert crêpes, are served nightly at this neighborhood institution. $$$ La Petite Grocery French 4238 Magazine St., 891-3377, LaPetiteGrocery.com. L Tue-Sat, D daily, Br Sun. Elegant dining in a convivial atmosphere. The menu is heavily French-inspired with an emphasis on technique. $$$ Lilette French 3637 Magazine St., 895-1636, LiletteRestaurant.com. L Tue-Sat, D Mon-Sat.

281-4127. L, D daily. Authentic, budgetfriendly Mexican restaurant serves tamales, mole and offers free chips and salsa as well as sangria. $

H Patois World 6078 Laurel St., 895-9441, PatoisNola.com. L Fri, D Wed-Sat, Br Sun. French food, with influences from across the Mediterranean as well as the American South, all filtered through the talent of chef Aaron Burgau. Reservations recommended. $$$ Pizza Domenica pizza 4933 Magazine St., 301-4978, PizzaDomenica.com. L Fri-Sun, D daily. A pizza centric spinoff of the popular Restaurant Domenica brings Neapolitanstyle pies to Uptown. Excellent salads and charcuterie boards are offered as well. $$

H Ruby Slipper Café Bakery/Breakfast 200 Magazine St., 525-9355; 1005 Canal St., 525-9355, TheRubySlipperCafe.net. B, L daily, Br Sun. Homegrown chain specializes in breakfast, lunch and brunch dishes with unique local twists such as bananas Foster French toast and barbecue shrimp and grits. $$

H Shaya World 4213 Magazine St., 891-4213, ShayaRestaurant.com. L, D daily. James Beard Award-winning menu pays homage to Israel at this contemporary Israeli hotspot. $$$ St. James Cheese Company Specialty Foods 5004 Prytania St., 899-4737, StJamesCheese.com. Open daily. Specialty shop offers a selection of fine cheeses, wines, beers and related accouterments. Look for wine and cheese specials every Friday. Sucré Specialty Foods 3025 Magazine St., 520-8311, ShopSucre.com. Desserts daily & nightly. Open late weekends. Chocolates, pastry and gelato draw rave reviews at this dessert destination. Beautiful packaging makes this a great place to shop for gifts. Catering available.

2604 Magazine St., 897-5413, TraceysNola. com. L, D daily. Neighborhood bar with one of the best roast beef poor boys in town. The gumbo, cheeseburger poor boy and other sandwiches are also winners. Also a great location to watch the game. $

H The Company Burger Burgers 4600 Freret St., 267-0320, TheCompanyBurger. com. L, D daily. Custom-baked butterbrushed buns and fresh-ground beef patties make all the difference at this excellent burger hotspot. Draft beer and craft cocktails round out the appeal. $ The Delachaise Gastropub 3442 St. Charles Ave., 895-0858, TheDelaichaise.com. D daily. Cuisine elevated to the standards of the libations is the draw at this lively wine bar and gastropub. Food is grounded in French bistro fare with eclectic twists. $$ H Upperline AMERICAN 1413 Upperline St., 891-9822, Upperline.com. D Wed-Sun. Consummate hostess JoAnn Clevenger presents this nationally heralded favorite. The oft-copied fried green tomatoes with shrimp remoulade originated here. $$$$ H Wayfare AMERICAN 4510 Freret St., 309-0069, WayfareNola.com. L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Creative sandwiches and southerninspired small plates. $$ Ye Olde College Inn AMERICAN 3000 S. Carrollton Ave., 866-3683, CollegeInn1933. com. D Tue-Sat. Serves up classic fare, albeit with a few upscale dishes peppering the menu. $$$ Vincent’s Italian Cuisine Italian 7839 St. Charles Ave., 866-9313, VicentsItalianCuisine.com. L Tue-Fri, D Tue-Sun. Snug Italian boîte packs them in yet manages to remain intimate at the same time. The cannelloni is a house specialty. $$$ Warehouse District Lucy’s World 710 Tchoupitoulas St., 523-8995, LucysRetiredSurfers.com. L, D daily. Island-themed oasis with a menu that cherry-picks tempting dishes from across the globe’s tropical latitudes. Popular for lunch, and the after-work crowds stay into the wee hours. $ West Bank Nine Roses Asian Fusion/Pan Asian 1100 Stephen St., 366-7665, NineRosesResturant. com. L, D Sun-Tue, Thu-Sat. The extensive Vietnamese menu specializes in hot pots, noodles and dishes big enough for everyone to share. $$ West End Landry’s Seafood Seafood 8000 Lakeshore Drive, West End, 283-1010, LandrysSeafood. com. L, D daily. Kid-friendly and popular seafood spot serves of heaping platters of fried shrimp, Gulf oysters, catfish and more. $$

Tracey’s Irish Restaurant & Bar AMERICAN

If you feel that a restaurant has been misplaced, please email Managing Editor Ashley McLellan at Ashley@MyNewOrleans.com

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ADVERTISING SECTION

Education: Open House Guide

ouring new schools is part of the fun in education exploration. New Orleans offers a diverse smattering of schools, from Catholic and charter to arts-integrated and Episcopal. Every fall, open houses offer a sneak peek for parents and prospective students, giving than an opportunity to walk the halls, see classrooms, hear presentations, and experience school culture. In addition to open houses, many schools offer private tours. If your little one is in line for a new school experience, checking out the many open houses this month may answer some questions and help you decide which schools share your personal values and value the same attributes in a young learner as you. From early and primary education to high schools and schools offering a continuous K-12 experience, each institution offers its own unique advantages. Get to know each school better with a little help from our Education Open House Guide.

Early Education Trinity is a co-educational, Prekindergarten through Eighth Grade school. Their campus is located in the Garden District and offers a pleasant and stimulating learning environment for students and faculty. Trinity continues in the tradition of its predecessor school, Miss Edith Aiken’s Little School, and in that of Trinity Episcopal Church. Trinity nurtures a child’s mind, body, and spirit through a fun and challenging program that offers the best in the academic disciplines, uses best practices, and is taught by a skillful, experienced, and loving faculty and staff. The School's mission is to build confident, resilient upstanders on a foundation of academic excellence, moral responsibility, and faith, who are prepared to make a positive 92

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difference in the world. Characteristics of Trinity graduates include being an empathetic upstander, a reflective person, an ardent questioner, a fluent communicator, and a collaborative learner. For more information or to schedule an individual tour, please visit trinitynola.org or call the Admission Office at 504-525-8661. Open Houses for grades PK – 8 will take place at 9 a.m. on October 12, and 9 a.m. on January 11. St. Andrew’s Episcopal School is the oldest Episcopal school in New Orleans with 61 years of experience in educating the mind, body, and spirit of young children. St. Andrew’s enrolls boys and girls 18 months through Grade 8, offering ten+ years of nurturing yet challenging education that focuses on the Decade of Childhood. St. Andrew’s utilizes small classes to promote a challenging learning environment where students interact with teachers and grow spiritually, socially, and intellectually. A strong academic program, enhanced by state-of-the-art technology, includes Spanish, music, chapel, fine arts, athletics, and library skills. Student publications, dramatics, interscholastic sports, and community service round out St. Andrew’s program. See their students and teachers in action at an upcoming Open House (October 25 for Cottage at 9 a.m., November 15 for PK-Grade 4 at 9 a.m., December 6 for the Middle School Preview at 4 p.m.), or call for a personal tour. For more information, please visit the school’s website at saesnola.org/admissions. For a strong primary education combined with the unique qualities of an outdoor country environment minutes from downtown, consider

ADVERTISING SECTION Arden Cahill Academy. Nestled on a 12-acre tract of land along Bayou Fatma in Gretna, the campus provide state of the art classroom learning facilities in addition to an equestrian arena, stables, and petting farm that provide unique learning experiences outside of the traditional classroom environment. The school focuses on cultural enrichment as one part of its primary education and tradition of academic excellence. Their STEM Lab, 300-seat theater, art studios, music rooms and foreign language programs ensure students’ abilities to excel in the arts, while a sports field, competition pool, gymnasium, and extra-curricular athletics allow students to excel in physical competition as well. Before and after school care are available and a specialized Infant Center accepts children as young as six weeks. The academy also hosts Camp Corral, a 10-week summer camp. For more information, please call 504-392-0902 or visit ardencahillacademy.com. Join Open House on November 13. Tours for infants through 7th grade are at 9 a.m., and 8th and 9th grade tours are at 1 p.m. The mission of the Stuart Hall School for Boys is to live the words of Catholic educator, Janet Erskine Stuart, RSJC: “Education is formation, not just information.” Faculty and staff are dedicated to working with parents to help each child build a foundation for a life centered on a love for learning, a desire to help others, and a commitment to Gospel values. Now in its 35th year, Stuart Hall School is the only school in the greater New Orleans area to offer a Catholic, independent, all-boy education in a traditional, elementary school configuration (PK37th). Faith, honor, leadership, and scholarship are the foundations upon which Stuart Hall builds future community leaders who have

an unselfish commitment to the service of others. It truly is a school “Where Good Boys Become Great Men.” Open House for Middle School will be held on October 2 at 6:30 p.m., and Preschool and Lower School Open House takes place October 24 at 8:30 a.m. Tours are available by appointment throughout the year. Tours are available by appointment. For more information on Stuart Hall School for Boys or to tour the campus, please call 504-8615384 or visit stuarthall.org. Cathedral Montessori School (CMS) is a non-profit, co-educational, certified Montessori school. Having grown from the benevolence of the Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Cathedral, it celebrates diversity, tradition, and faith. While it currently serves students three years to second grade, it will eventually serve students through sixth grade. CMS opened its doors after Hurricane Katrina, demonstrating hope and leadership during a time of rebuilding. After nearly a decade, it has expanded once again to meet the needs of the community and the call for an elementary level Montessori program to guide students beyond their preschool years. With this expansion, CMS aims to provide an education of hope, self-motivation, and discovery to a greater population of students who will go on to contribute creatively and positively to the community and world. Growth, transformation and change are celebrated at CMS, but the curriculum and culture remain constant and support independent academic inquiry and discovery, emotional confidence and empathy, and social justice and collective responsibility. Visit the Open House on November 3 at 9 a.m. Private tours are available by appointment. For more information, visit info@ cathedralmontessori.org or call 504-252-4871.

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Continuous Education / K-12 Ecole Bilingue de la Nouvelle-Orléans is the only private French school in New Orleans that is accredited by the French Ministry of Education and State of Louisiana. Founded in 1998, the mission of the school is to provide a strong and distinctive education by combining the best of French and American academics. Ecole Bilingue follows the curriculum of the French Education Nationale, considered to be one of the most rigorous educational systems in the world. Ecole Bilingue also offers a rich English language arts and American mathematics and social studies programs designed to balance out and complement the strength of the French curriculum. The school has a campus of three buildings off Magazine Street in Uptown New Orleans with students and teachers from the U.S. and around the world. Classes are offered for children in preschool (18 months) through 8th grade. The student-to-teacher ratio is 8 to 1, allowing each student an opportunity to have personalized attention for a better, differentiated education. Open House takes place Thursday, October 25, from 4:30 – 6:30 p.m. For more information the school, please visit ebnola.net. To schedule a tour, call 504-896-4500. Lusher Charter School, a National Blue Ribbon School in partnership with Tulane University, offers a rigorous, interdisciplinary, college-focused curriculum. Lusher students engage in a comprehensive program, enhancing critical, analytical, and creative thinking. Serving 1,800 students in its K-12 program, Lusher maintains two Uptown campuses, the Lower School on Willow Street, and the Middle and High schools on Freret Street. Arts integration starts in the Lower School; many Lusher students continue artistic pursuits in high school Certificate of Artistry programs. Students may choose an area of concentration 94

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in Humanities/Communications or Math/Science/Engineering. Beginning with introductory Engineering classes in Lower School, STEM options expand to include Aerospace Engineering, Biomedical Science and AP courses in all sciences. A Learning Resource Center and state-of-the-art science laboratories support academic excellence. Qualifying juniors and seniors earn college credit at Tulane. Lusher’s numerous extracurricular offerings include 27 sports teams that operate with the support of Saints quarterback Drew Brees, who provided funding for Lusher’s Brees Family Field. Call 504-862-5110 (Willow) or 504-304-3961 (Freret) to find out more about Lusher’s outstanding program Founded in 1867, the Academy of the Sacred Heart is a Catholic, independent, college prep school for girls, ages 1 through Grade 12. The school is committed to values of faith, intellectual advancement, social awareness, the building of community, and personal growth. As part of a network of 150+ Sacred Heart schools, its global exchange program allows students to visit other sister schools in the U. S. and abroad. With global exchange opportunities, thought leadership, service learning activities, a tech-forward campus, design thinking and more, Sacred Heart girls are truly inspired to go out and make change in the world. Open House for Grades 5-12 is Wednesday, October 17 from 5 – 7 p.m. Tuesday Tours for Ages 1 – Grade 4 are October 16, October 23, October 30, November 6, and January 8 from 8:30 – 10 a.m. For more info, call 504-269-1213 or visit ashrosary.org/openhouse. St. Martin’s Episcopal School is a coeducational, independent college preparatory day school for students from 8 weeks through 12th grade. St. Martin’s curriculum and programs are designed to stimulate growth at the different stages in a child's life. A rigorous

ADVERTISING SECTION curriculum, balanced with small class sizes and emphasis on critical thinking, collaboration, creativity and leadership, prepares students not only to thrive in excellent colleges, but also to lead meaningful and productive lives with knowledge and skills that enable success long after graduation. St. Martin’s is leading the way with a student-centered innovation and design approach to education that is unlike any other in the region. Learn more about St. Martin’s when you visit the beautiful 18-acre campus for a personal tour or attend the Open House on Saturday, October 20 at 9:30 a.m. For more information or to schedule a personal tour, please call the Admission Office at 504-736-9917. Visit St. Martin’s on the web at stmsaints.com. Founded in 1903, Isidore Newman School is committed to the intellectual, ethical, emotional, and physical development of each student. Newman offers a challenging, comprehensive, and developmentally appropriate curriculum from pre-kindergarten through 12th grade, with Green Trees Early Childhood Village enrolling children ages six weeks to four years. A Newman education encourages critical and independent thinking, leadership in academic and extracurricular activities, and provides superior guidance and support for high achieving students and families. Newman invites guests to explore the school’s offerings by visiting the November 13 Open House at 6 p.m. or the January 23 Open House at 9 a.m. Individual visits are always welcomed. You may arrange a visit by calling 504-896-6323. Visit newmanschool.org for more information.

grade. Founded in 1727, Ursuline Academy enjoys the distinction of being both the oldest school for girls and the oldest Catholic school in the United States. Ursuline’s educational approach combines tradition and innovation and is validated by its dedication to the moral, spiritual, intellectual, and social growth of each student. The Academy’s strong musical, visual, and performing arts are matched by the excellence of STEM, and Ursuline is the first all-girls school in Louisiana to implement a full K-12 engineering and computer science pathway program known as Project Lead The Way. High School Open House (Grades 8-12) will be Thursday, October 25 from 4 p.m. – 6 p.m. Elementary Open House (Toddler 2-7) will be Friday, October 26 from 8:30 a.m. - 10 a.m. Private tours are available by appointment. For more information, visit uanola.org or contact the Office of Admissions at 504-866-5292 or admissions@uanola.org. Established in 1929, Metairie Park Country Day School is a coeducational, non-denominational, independent school where care and cultivation of each child, from Pre-K through Grade 12, come to life with exciting and innovative approaches to teaching. The use of advanced technology and expansive, rigorous curriculum opens the world to Country Day students, and faculty teaches them the importance of individual achievement through a depth of inquiry rather than a mere recitation of facts. Visit an Admission Open House or email admissions@mpcds.com for a private tour. Upcoming Open Houses include Pre-K on October 25 at 6:30 p.m.; K/1/2 on January 10 at 8:30 a.m.; Grades 3/4/5 on January 15 at 8:30 a.m.; 6th-12th grades on November 14 at 6:30 p.m. and January 17 at 8:15 a.m.

Ursuline Academy is an all-girls Catholic school offering a diverse educational environment from Toddler 2 through 12th

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High School The Mount Carmel Academy experience is filled with opportunities for each student to pursue her passions, uncover new talents, grow spiritually, and discover the person God created her to become. The challenging curriculum enables students to cultivate critical thinking skills, communicate effectively, weigh social and religious values, and prepare for higher education. A 1:1 MacBook program enhances instruction and offers powerful collaborative and in-class possibilities. Small class sizes (average of 15) ensure each student receives individualized attention while developing meaningful connections with her teachers and peers. As they navigate through a diverse selection of elective offerings and more than 50 extracurricular activities, students are encouraged to expand interests and become active participants in the community. Service to others is an integral part of a Mount Carmel education. Through hard work and reflection, students develop a deep respect for God, their families, and all of God’s creation. Teamwork and perseverance are found on and off the field on 11 athletic teams. Visit their Open House, Thursday, October 11, 2018, 3 - 7 p.m. Private tours are available by appointment. For more information, visit mcacubs.com, call 504-288-7626, or email admissions@mcacubs.org. Archbishop Chapelle High School is a leading private Catholic high school for girls in grades 8-12 offering exceptional academics alongside spiritual formation and leadership development. Chapelle women excel in college and their future careers while always remembering Deus Providebit... God Will Provide. Chapelle provides a rigorous college preparatory curriculum with AP and Dual Enrollment classes and a strong emphasis on STEM and Fine Arts. Chapelle’s 1:1 student technology initiative integrates technology into every subject through the use of individualized Google Chromebooks and a new STEM Center for interdisciplinary learning. In addition to impressive academics, Chapelle's competitive athletics and array of student activities ensure a well-rounded educational experience within a close-knit family environment. Over 96

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90% of students join more than one extracurricular activity where they develop talents, cultivate school spirit, and make lifelong friends. At Chapelle, students are challenged to deepen their Catholic faith through religion classes, liturgies, class-level retreats, and ministry programs. Service learning is also an integral part of the Chapelle experience, with students completing over 26,000 service hours each year. Chapelle’s Open House is Thursday, November 8 at 6 p.m. For more information, visit archbishopchapelle.org.

Education for Individuals with Intellectual & Developmental Disabilities St. Michael School educates over 200 students each year age six through adulthood with intellectual and developmental disabilities in a Catholic environment. Established in 1965 by Sr. Lillian McCormack of the School Sisters of Notre Dame and the Archdiocese of New Orleans, the school has served over 6,000 students in more than 50 years as a prized New Orleans institution. Individualized instruction develops the whole child—academically, physically, emotionally, and spiritually. Curriculum includes reading, religion, language arts, math, science, social studies, technology, creative arts, culinary science, independent living, community integration, industrial arts, music, and job training. Extracurricular activities include speech therapy, music therapy, adaptive physical education, club participation, student council, sports, cheerleading, and various inclusive activities with respective peer groups. In 2017, a new transition program was added for recent high school graduates. Exploration Academy focuses on job readiness through self-determination, independent life skills and community work experiences. St. Michael is accredited by LDOE, AdvancEd, and recognized as a NASET School of Excellence. Open House takes place October 18, 2018 and February 7, 2019. Sign up for a tour at stmichaelspecialschool.com/ admissions or call 504-524-7285. •

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Stella Plantation’s Fall Festival

Fall Weekends

all is one of the most beloved seasons around New Orleans. From football madness to fall festivals and the allure of Halloween costuming, there’s something for everyone during this more temperate time of year. Fall weekends are perfect for enjoying a little time with friends and family, and whether you choose to hit the town for a little food, shopping, and entertainment or plan a weekend getaway, you’ll find there’s more options than there are fall weekends. Make the most of the season with adventurous meals, new accessories for your wardrobe, and excitement in the form of arts, music, history, and travel. Texas, Mississippi, and Florida have their own exciting fall events and destinations for those looking to hit the road with the windows down. Whether you’re packing a cooler or packing a costume, October’s a great month to pack it all in.

New Orleans Area Entertainment, Shopping, & Dining French Quarter Phantoms Ghost & Vampire Tours are fun for visitors and locals alike. Listed as #5 in TripAdvisor's Top Ten Ghost Tours in the World, their tours should be on everyone's "Must Do" list. Grab a cocktail and walk along with their Master Story Tellers for a lot of great laughs and chills up your spine. Their fun, exuberant guides are passionate about entertaining guests. Year-round tours begin at 6:00pm and 8:00pm nightly and are appropriate for all ages. For daytime adventures explore St Louis #1 Cemetery, 11 a.m. and 1 p.m. daily, or walk amidst shady live oaks and grand houses on a tour of the Garden District available at 10:00 a.m. daily. For adultsonly fun, try Saints & Sinners, a dirty little French Quarter history tour beginning at 1:00 p.m. daily. French Quarter Phantoms offers a variety of tours throughout the day and evening. Pick your favorite, grab your friends, and have some fun. Online discounts are available through FrenchQuarterPhantoms. com. For more information, call 504-666-8300.

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Since 1852, Fair Grounds Race Course has been a part of the cultural fabric of the wonderful city of New Orleans. The Fair Grounds welcomes back the excitement of Thoroughbred Racing this fall on November 17. With extensive experience, southern hospitality, and unique facilities, the Fair Grounds is able to make your occasion truly memorable. Whether it's a group for "A Day at the Races," a meeting or an evening party, Fair Grounds provides an ideal setting for your next event. A major strength is its flexibility; event settings range from elegant to casual and reception-style to sit-down with your choice of view of the racetrack or downtown New Orleans. With grounds fit for even the most special of occasions, Fair Grounds would consider it a privilege to share in any big day. Host your ceremony or reception in the Paddock and be among the many greats in history that have paraded around this historic site. For groups of 25 or more, request the Fair Grounds Race Course brochure and “Win, Place and Show” your guests an afternoon to remember. Call 504-948-1285 or email groupsales@fgno.com. Visit online at FGNO.com. Shoppers looking for fall style that combines natural beauty with eco-friendliness and superior function will want to visit Queork, located in two of New Orleans most popular neighborhood shopping areas, the French Quarter and Magazine Street. Queork is locally owned and specializes in fine handbags, shoes, and accessories for fashion, home, and office that are made from natural cork fabric, which has the look and feel of a soft leather but has the fabulous qualities of being water, scratch, and stain resistant. Cork fabric comes from the same raw material as wine corks—the outer bark of the cork oak tree, mainly grown in the Mediterranean. Once the bark is removed, the tree is left to regrow its bark before it is harvested again. This process takes place every 9-12 years, which makes the tree live longer, typically anywhere from 250-300 years. Cork is not only beautiful; it is also one of the most sustainable products in the world. Visit Queork in the French Quarter and on Magazine Street to learn more. From handbags, wallets, belts, bowties, boots, jewelry,

ADVERTISING SECTION aprons, hats, etc.—there’s something for everyone at Queork.

Gautreau's Restaurant

New Orleans Opera Association is proud to celebrate its 76th season. The Association was formed in 1943, but the company and opera originally date back to April 22, 1796, and will turn 222 during the city's Tricentennial. The 2018-2019 New Orleans Opera season includes Puccini's Turandot, a fairy tale fantasy; Rameau’s Pygmailion, a French Baroque evening where art comes to life; Mozart’s Abduction, an exciting comedy; Lera Auerbach’s The Blind, a unique immersive acapella opera, and Verdi’s Rigoletto, a popular fast-paced drama. New for this year is an expansion of the Opera Nouvelle series, which consists of exciting interactive events at Xavier University, Lusher Lion’s Gate Theater, Deutches Haus, The Jazz Museum, The Ogden & NOMA sculpture garden. NOOA is also presenting 19 “Opera on Tap” performances at Abita Brew Pub, Four Points Sheraton, and The Rusty Nail. For more information, contact 504529-3000 or go to NewOrleansOpera.org. Each year, Royal Sonesta New Orleans pulls out all the stops to celebrate the holidays in the heart of the French Quarter. The hotel proudly partners with Children’s Hospital of New Orleans and hosts in its Grand Ballroom the highly anticipated Royal Teddy Bear Tea event series, a multi-layered community outreach program that provides patients with unique and memorable experiences while supporting the hospital with meaningful financial resources and contributions. Take advantage of all Royal Sonesta New Orleans has to offer, including its Papa Noel Holiday Package to receive the hotel’s best rates, starting at only $149 per night Sunday through Thursday, and from $199 per night on Friday and Saturday. Plus, all Papa Noel guests automatically receive the tremendous Sonesta Savings Pack, containing more than $500 in discounts to New Orleans’ most popular attractions and museums. Visit Sonesta.com/RoyalNewOrleans to book now; terms and conditions apply, based on availability. Twenty-two years ago, owner and designer Candice Gwinn moved from New Orleans to Georgia to open her first Trashy Diva boutique in the historic French Quarter. Trashy Diva’s four locations across the city and two Atlanta locations provide women of all shapes and sizes with impeccably tailored, meticulously designed pieces to transcend fashion fads, ranging from sizes 0-24. Visit Trashy Diva Clothing and Lingerie Boutiques for a fresh shopping experience with tons of brand-new arrivals for fall. From

unique dresses to luxury lingerie to retro-inspired shoes, Trashy Diva offers a highly curated selection of clothing and must-have accessories to complete your fall look. Trashy Diva has everything you need to build a variety of Halloween looks, including corsets, petticoats, jewels, and more. Planning a fall wedding? Be sure to schedule your private lingerie shopping party with the divas to get everything you need for your big day. For more information visit TrashyDiva.com. Enjoy football and fall festival season this month by stopping in any of the Tropical Isles, home of the Hand Grenade®, New Orleans’ Most Powerful Drink® and the Hand Grenade® Martini. Also, enjoy a Hand Grenade® at Funky Pirate Blues Club or Bayou Club. Experience Trop Rock, Cajun/Zydeco, and the Blues, with Tropical Isle’s nightly entertainment, the best on Bourbon. State-of-the-art sound systems plus great live bands will keep you dancing the night my n e w or l e a n s . com

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ADVERTISING SECTION away at Tropical Isle Bourbon, Tropical Isle Original, Little Tropical Isle, Funky Pirate, and the Bayou Club. While there, ask about the Hand Grenade® Martini. Enjoy big screen TVs at Funky Pirate, Bayou Club, Tropical Isle Bourbon, and Top of the Trop. For more on Tropical Isle, visit TropicalIsle.com. For a quiet escape, visit local favorite The Orleans Grapevine Wine Bar & Bistro right off of Bourbon at 720 Orleans Avenue, which has more than 200 varieties of wine by the bottle and plenty of wine by the glass, plus a Bacon Happy Hour! For sample menus and wine lists, visit OrleansGrapevine.com. In its 35th year as a celebrated culinary New Orleans destination, Gautreau’s courts its guests with distinctively elegant yet approachable surroundings and a menu both inventive and down-to-earth. Nestled in a lush garden spot in Uptown New Orleans, Gautreau’s has been fortunate to see a succession of great talent in its kitchen, winning several national awards. Chef Baruch Rabasa has been the quiet genius influencing the restaurant’s two previous talented chefs, and now he’s at the helm, creating sensational new dishes that highlight influences from his native country of Mexico. Appetizers like the Marinated Hamachi with avocado, mango, and aji sauce and the Seared Sea Scallops with Leche de Tigre and Fresno chilies and fresh hearts of palm showcase a vast spectrum of flavors that greet guests prior to entrees such as the Sauteed Shrimp with Coconut-Kafir Lime Jus, the Roasted Duck Breast with Mole Reduction, and Sauteed Red Snapper with Thai Pesto. Decadent desserts such as the Caramelized Banana Split with Vanilla Ice Cream, Vanilla Bean Crème Brulee, and Mexican Chocolate Semifreddo provide a perfect ending to Gautreau’s exceptional fine dining experience. For reservations and info, visit GautreausRestaurant.com. Chef Charles House of Creations is a culinary experience altogether new to the metro area. A personal chef from Baton Rouge with over 30 years experience, Chef Charles is bringing a fresh idea and his freshest recipes to town and catering directly to you in your home or business. As a personal chef, Chef Charles is able to travel to you, supplying you and your guests with exciting, unique flavors and a personalized experience. Don’t you ever wish you didn’t have to fight traffic or do a ton of research to find that perfect spot to celebrate your anniversary, birthday, or other occasion? Transform your home or private space with the creative table settings and decorating skills of Lady Lecia, Chef Charles’ wife and business partner. Together, they’ll transform your home into a romantic getaway exclusive to you, preparing one-of-a-kind meals to celebrate your special day. Visit ChefCharlesHouse.com for information. Give him a call to set up your personal one-on-one consultation. The experience is in the creation. Cheer on your favorite team as you dine riverside at the hottest sports bar downtown! Poppy’s Time Out Sports Bar features 18 beers on tap, including loads of local brews. Poppy’s carries all of the DIRECTV sports packages and displays over 20 TVs for fans to keep up with all the excitement around the leagues. Poppy’s menu 100

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Fair Grounds Race Course

includes handcrafted, juicy gourmet burgers made using brisket, short rib, and ground chuck. Amazing wings, loaded nachos, and seafood poor boys round out the menu’s top picks for gamewinning appetizers and entrees. Bring your entire team to Poppy’s party pavilion to watch all the action. Poppy’s Time Out Sports Bar is located in Spanish Plaza across from Harrah’s Casino at 500 Port of New Orleans, Ste. 80. Happy Hour runs Monday-Friday, 3 p.m. - 6 p.m. and features daily specials. Thanksgiving Day is also game day—Poppy’s will be open. For photos, menus, party reservations and more, visit PoppysTimeOutSportsBar.com or call 504-247-9265 for more information. Stop in at New Orleans Creole Cookery this fall and enjoy authentic Creole fare and the time-honored tastes of classic favorites such as Gumbo, Shrimp Creole, Crawfish Etouffee, and Snapper Pontchartrain. Autumn is perfect for patio dining and game-day specials in the Courtyard Bar. Recent winner of the 2018 Trip Advisor Certificate of Excellence, New Orleans Creole Cookery also features the charming Toulouse Lautrec dining room and a lively oyster bar. Stop in for Oyster Happy Hour Monday through Friday and get your fill of $.50 raw and $1 chargrilled oysters with the purchase of an entrée. Located at 510 Toulouse Street, New Orleans Creole Cookery is open seven days a week (11 a.m.-10 p.m.) for lunch and dinner with a jazz brunch on Saturday and Sunday (9 a.m.-2 p.m.). The Creole Cookery is also open on Thanksgiving. Live jazz adds to the authentic New Orleans dining experience Friday through Sunday. Learn more at NewOrleansCreoleCookery.com. Call 504-524-9632 for reservations. This fall, visit the Warehouse District’s new addition, Briquette, the new restaurant at 701 S. Peters Street by Anna Tusa, owner of New Orleans Creole Cookery. Helmed by Chef Hosie Bourgeois, Briquette puts seafood and contemporary coastal cuisine at the center of the dining experience. As the name indicates, the restaurant features a large charcoal grill to highlight the fresh coastal flavors. The menu emphasizes small plates for sharing the variety of fish and seafood, including whole grilled fish. Other flavorful menu items include aged beef, pastas, and more. The bar at Briquette features a curated wine list to accompany the menu

ADVERTISING SECTION along with specialty, handcrafted cocktails. Start a new tradition this season with delicious food shared with friends and family together at Briquette, which is open on Thanksgiving. For more information and reservations, visit Briquette online at Briquette-Nola.com or on Facebook. Lunch is available Monday through Friday beginning at 11 a.m. Find all of “Nawlin’s” favorites at New Orleans Cajun Cookery, located just outside the French Quarter at 719 S. Peters Street in the CBD. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, the Cajun Cookery is perfect for visitors and downtown professionals alike. Highlights of the menu include Chicken & Waffles, Shrimp & Grits, seafood platters, and po-boys. The Cookery’s full bar features handcrafted cocktails and a vast selection of craft beers from Louisiana’s growing list of breweries. Pony up to the bar between 3-6 p.m. and enjoy $5 drinks and appetizers. Outdoor seating is available and perfect for those breezy autumn mornings, afternoons, and evenings. The Cajun Cookery will be serving up “Nawlins” favorites on Thanksgiving Day. For more information on the restaurant and its offerings, call 504-407-0653. Mr. Ed’s has been a local favorite since 1989 and is still regarded as among the best eateries in New Orleans today. Mr. Ed’s Oyster Bar serves your choice of chargrilled, fried, or raw oysters as well as long time favorites such as Oyster Rockefeller and Bienville. Offering both a stand-up oyster bar and cocktail bar, it's the perfect place to relax and enjoy. With four unique locations open across Greater New Orleans and a fifth opening this fall, Mr. Ed’s Oyster Bar & Fish House brings its

fresh seafood, poboys, platters, and specialties to Mid-City, Metairie, St. Charles Avenue, and the French Quarter. The newest location will bring a second Mr. Ed’s Oyster Bar & Fish House to the French Quarter at 821 Iberville Street. “Mr. Ed” McIntyre also oversees Mr. Ed’s Seafood & Italian Restaurant of Metairie and Kenner, Austin’s Seafood & Steakhouse of Metairie, and The Pearl Room of Harahan. Explore each savory menu at MrEdsRestaurants.com. October is one of the best times of the year, especially for New Orleans. The Saints rule the season, and A. Renee Boutique has black and gold styles to celebrate. Additionally, Halloween is a cult holiday for New Orleans, and A. Renee Boutique has beautiful autumn stripes, burn out velvet dresses, funky Aztec skirts, silver tulle and gold lame skirts, feather tops and tunics—all the funky, fun, fabulous clothing for fall and winter. Browse the boutique’s website, AReneeBoutique.com, or visit the store to experience the best boutique in the Quarter. A. Renee Boutique is located at 824 Chartres Street, east of Jackson Square. For more information, call 504-418-1448, and follow the boutique on Instagram and Facebook at @AReneeBoutiqueNOLA. Enjoy some fall shopping and pop into Fleur d’ Orleans for some of the most iconic and traditional New Orleans designs in art, jewelry, accessories, and gifts. Located just around the corner from Jackson Square at 818 Chartres Street, as well as at 3701-A Magazine Street (Uptown), Fleur d’ Orleans has designed more than 150 different pieces of sterling silver jewelry, inspired by art and architectural designs found around the city.

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ADVERTISING SECTION Whether you need handmade sterling silver earrings, brooches or pendants, semi-precious jewels set in sterling, beautiful silk scarves, or handmade paper notecards, you will find a rich array of designer accessories at Fleur d’ Orleans. Their newest line of earrings, inspired by the wrought iron and cast iron of the French Quarter, is available and priced from $27- $60. Fleur d’ Orleans designs are exclusive to their shops. You can view their designs online and order with free shipping from fleurdorleans. com. For more information and hours, call 504-475-5254 (Chartres) or 504-899-5585 (Magazine St.). The MySquad App is savings made social! A free local app that provides exclusive specials to local bars, restaurants, gyms, boutiques, and activities, MySquad makes it easier to have fun with your friends. How it works is simple. Open the app, find a deal that appeals to you, and invite your squad. Once your squad arrives and checks in at the allotted time, you are ready to start saving. Start living your best life, and get your Squad together to start eating, having fun, and saving money all at the same time. Life is better as a party. MySquad is a local startup founded by three friends who met in high school while attending Newman and McGehee. The app is 100 percent free to you as a user, so why not give it a try? Who doesn’t like saving money and having fun while doing it? Have a business and want to join MySquad for a free trial? Call 504-908-1182.

Nearby Travel Destinations From October 1 through November 4, historic St. Joseph Plantation offers its annual, sought-after “Mourning Tour,” which features the grieving and funeral customs and rituals of 18th- and 19th-century Creole Louisiana. The house will be “dressed in full deep mourning,” according to the old prescribed protocol of mourning. Due to popular demand, St. Joseph Plantation will now be open seven days a week. On the weekends of October 6-7 and October 20-21, St. Joseph Plantation features live actors portraying some of St. Joseph’s long-ago residents and the mourning customs they followed. Both educational and entertaining, these live re-enactments include protrayals of Dr. Cazemir Bernard Mericq and Josephine Aime Ferry who lived at St. Joseph on separate occasions. Regular tours are offered every day, and the guided mansion tour is one hour followed by a self-guided grounds tour. Photography of the interior is welcomed. The ground floor and gift shop are handicap accessible. For more information on St. Joseph Plantation, tours, and private events, visit StJosephPlantation.com or call 225-265-4078. On October 14 and 21 as well as November 4, nearby Stella Plantation welcomes visitors for Fall Fest, a seasonal celebration for families with additional days made available for school groups. With a $10 ticket, festival goers enjoy choosing their own mini pumpkin, shooting the Corn Cob Cannon, taking a hayride through beautiful Stella Plantation, playing in bouncy houses, taking photos, and gathering in the picnic area. Also available for purchase at Fall Fest will be face painting and professional photos from NOLA Mini Sessions. Tickets are required for attendees over one year of age, and attendees are welcome to bring a picnic blanket and lunch, although delicious food and beverages are available and part of the festival fun. While Stella Plantation offers a limited number of Fall Festival tickets at the door, there is a daily cap. To ensure you are able to attend Fall Fest, please purchase your tickets in advance. From October 2 through November 15, school groups are welcome with Tuesdays open to K-2nd grades, Wednesdays open to 3rd-5th grades, and Thursdays for nursery school. For information and tickets, visit StellaPlantation.com. 102

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New Orleans Cajun Cookery Just 40 miles north of the Big Easy, the historic City of Covington lies enveloped by scenic rivers, live oak trees, and fragrant long-leaf pines. Covington’s charming downtown offers an abundance of world-class dining and entertainment options, as well as unique boutiques and art galleries where you can discover one-of-a kind treasures. Every Thursday in April and October, the city hosts the Rockin’ the Rails free concerts at the Covington Trailhead. The concerts take place from 5 p.m. to 7:30 p.m. and feature some of the Greater New Orleans area’s most celebrated musicians. The October 2018 series will feature The New Orleans Mystics, Big Daddy “O” & Uneven Ground, The Rick Samson Project/LeRoux and Tyler Kinchen & The Right Pieces. After a concert, simply walk to one of Covington’s many popular restaurants in the historic district to enjoy delectable local fare. Then, blissfully end your evening with an overnight stay at one of many charming bed and breakfasts. Come experience all that Covington has to offer! Visit covla.com for more information. Rediscover the magic of fall at Historic Pensacola, America’s first multi-year European settlement. A walkable cultural and heritage museum complex located in downtown Pensacola and situated within the footprints of the original Spanish and British forts, Historic Pensacola is the perfect place to scare up a little fun! Relive Pensacola’s ghostly past during the 28th Annual Haunted House Walking and Trolley Tours—choose from five tours! Next, explore Death and Mourning in the Victorian Period or Talking to Death: History of the Victorian Séance. Love sci-fi? Transport to another dimension and attend The Pensacola Museum of Art’s screening of The Invasion of the Body Snatchers and drop by their annual Spooktacular Halloween Party. Lastly, the season is about imagination and The Big Draw delivers. Come to the world’s largest celebration of drawing, a free event at Historic Pensacola. For dates, times and ticket information, visit HistoricPensacola.org (850-595-5990) and PensacolaMuseum.org (850-432-6247). Fall is the perfect time to head to the beach for Harvest Wine & Food Festival. Produced by Destin Charity Wine Auction Foundation (DCWAF), this lavish event provides attendees the opportunity to sip and savor some of the world’s finest wine and culinary selections

ADVERTISING SECTION while enjoying the beautiful beach town of WaterColor, Florida. Labeled one of the premier fall wine events in the Southeast, Harvest Wine & Food Festival showcases over 400 wines paired with food stations designed to highlight the best in Gulf Coast fare. Each event during the three-day festival is tailored to fit the different tastes and preferences of wine and food aficionados, kicking off with three intimate Celebrity Winemaker Dinners on Thursday, October 25. Fridayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Al Fresco Reserve Tasting provides patrons a selection of library wines featuring rare vintages not easily accessible to the average consumer, while Saturdayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Grand Tasting main event highlights harvest season at the beach. Large seafood, barbeque, and provisional stations manned by celebrity chefs and supplemented by the best restaurants along the Gulf Coast are combined with tasting stations featuring over 400 wines. Visit HarvestWineandFood.com for information and to purchase tickets.

Harvest Wine & Food Festival

Big Bay Lake is a one-of-a-kind planned community on Mississippi's largest private recreational lake. Located just outside of Hattiesburg, Big Bay Lake blends seamlessly into its natural

surroundings. Home sites are available on the water starting at $100,000. Both the homes and home sites within this community provide unique opportunities to create the perfect home or weekend getaway.

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ADVERTISING SECTION It’s time to relax, unplug, make memories and create new traditions at Big Bay. Whether you are a boating or fishing enthusiast, or just a family who loves to make a big splash, Big Bay Lake is simply about the lure of the water. Come enjoy sun-kissed, fun-filled days at Big Bay Lake, where the little things make life… “Big!” Big Bay Lake is only 90 minutes from New Orleans. Call for a boat tour today at 877-4BIG-BAY or visit bigbaylake.com. Fall into Vicksburg this season for unforgettable events you don’t want to miss! Whether you want to join a race, experience the sites on two wheels, or enjoy The Best Air Show in the World, you want to make the trip to Vicksburg for a true historic experience. Live Mississippi music from the Delta Blues to country and rock can be enjoyed at venues throughout the city. Learn American history by visiting the site of the defining battle of America’s defining war at the Vicksburg National Military Park. Enjoy the southern charm of Vicksburg by strolling the brick-paved streets of its historic downtown bustling with eclectic boutiques, art galleries, and various eateries. Enjoy sweeping views Ole Man River and some of the most beautiful sunsets imaginable. Relax and let it all run on river time! For more to see and do in Vicksburg, go to VisitVicksburg.com or call 1-800-221-3536. Cruise into Scarlet Pearl Casino Resort this October, and discover “The New Way” on the Mississippi Gulf Coast. View the nationally famous Scarlet Lady, a ’56 classic resto-mod Lincoln Continental Mark II, on October 2 from 5:30 p.m. -7:30 p.m. during Cruisin’ the Coast; pick up a discount coupon to enjoy a Scarlet Lady cocktail at Butler’s Bar & Lounge at Scarlet Pearl.

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Win a 2018 Infiniti QX30 or Free Slot Play on Saturday, October 13 at 10 p.m.; one winner every 30 minutes will receive $150 Free Slot Play from 6 p.m. - 9:30 p.m. Earn 25x entries every Monday. On Saturday, October 20 at 8 p.m., Scarlet Pearl Casino Resort, in partnership with Susan G. Komen, will present its 3rd Annual Pink Pearls to Save the Girls Fashion Show. Scarlet Pearl will recognize those who have survived breast cancer, those still facing it, as well as those who have lost their lives to it. Visit ScarletPearlCasino.com for more details. Experience the magic of the Texas Renaissance Festival, the nation’s largest Renaissance and most acclaimed theme park. Enter an enchanted kingdom filled with kings, queens, knights, nobles, peasants, pirates, fairies, elves, heroes, villains, dragons, and other mythical creatures. Established in 1974, the Texas Renaissance Festival attracts over half a million visitors each year to its 55-acre recreation of a 16th Century European village. This immersive experience features world-renowned live entertainment, works by master artists and craftspeople, award winning food and drink, hand-powered rides and games, and over 100 interactive characters during its nine themed weekends from September 29 through November 25, 2018. The festival is also open on Friday, November 23, the day after Thanksgiving. The festival and the adjacent Fields of New Market Campground are located in Todd Mission, Texas, 50 miles northwest of downtown Houston. For more information, please visit TexRenFest.com. •

ADVERTISING SECTION Home Care Solutions Care Managers navigate the care of your loved ones with expertise and heart and are experienced advocates with creative solutions for complex situations and all care concerns. Care Managers’ familiarity with local resources saves you time and often saves you money while their compassionate understanding of the aging process saves you unnecessary distress. Home Care Solutions, a licensed Personal Care Attendant Agency, is a member of Home Care Association of America and Aging Life Care Association™. Call 504-828-0900 or visit HomeCareNewOrleans.com. Home Care Solutions would be honored to assist your family in navigating elder care.

Cancer Care

ctober is breast cancer awareness month, when pink ribbons dominate the décor at awareness events, fundraisers and walks, and professional athletes don pink cleats, wristbands, and other gear. As we are reminded of the importance of breast cancer awareness this month, let’s also be cognizant of screenings and treatments that can protect and affect us all from every type of cancer. The region is stocked with award-winning cancer centers, hospitals, and clinics whose specialists offer expert knowledge and the treatments needed to beat this prevalent disease. This fall, make a point to find out what screenings and preventative measures you can employ to keep a cancer diagnosis at bay. If you or someone you love is facing cancer treatment, rest assured you can seek quality help here at home. As Louisiana’s only MD Anderson affiliated hospital, East Jefferson General Hospital (EJGH) has access to the latest treatment protocols/plans used by the cancer center voted #1 by US News and World Report. But beyond that affiliation, EJGH’s outcomes and commitment to personalized care separate it from any other cancer center in the region. State-of-the-art technologies allow the hospital to treat prostate, head and neck, breast, and other cancers in ways that are more successful and patient friendly than ever before. EJGH’s Cancer Care Navigators give patients someone to turn to in setting appointments, understanding treatments/medicines, and helping the patient concentrate on only one thing: getting better. Most of all, the hospital’s oncology division is comprised of physicians, nurses, and ancillary staff who choose to work in the unique and everchanging field of fighting cancer. These individuals thrive on helping people through their toughest challenge and seeing them beyond treatment to being cancer free. That commitment from EJGH’s team to each patient is the reason the hospital was voted the #1 hospital in Louisiana for Medical Outcomes. Find out more about EJGH offerings at EJGH.org. Home Care Solutions, newly acquired by Poydras Home, specializes in compassionate in-home care, Alzheimer’s care, and Aging Life Care Management™ services to help your elderly loved ones extend their independence at home. They are committed to providing the highest quality of care, keeping loved ones safe and comfortable while giving families peace of mind. Caregiver’s are carefully matched to meet both your loved one’s needs and personality.

Thibodaux Regional Medical Center, located in Lafourche Parish, recently announced plans to construct a new state-of-the-art cancer facility. The new cancer facility will accommodate the growth the Center is experiencing, and will position Thibodaux Regional for the future of care, treatment, and support for those affected by cancer. According to Greg Stock, Thibodaux Regional CEO, “The new Cancer Institute will provide the springboard for continued growth and development of cancer services—into the future. That future aligns with our vision and includes important innovations such as integrating wellness into the clinical aspects of cancer care.” The five-story building will provide nearly 100,000 square feet, allowing for growth of the hospital’s cancer program, and will include Radiation Therapy, Chemotherapy/Infusion Area, Medical Oncology Clinic, Education Center, Wellness Services, Activity Center, Library, Diagnostics Center, Conference Center, Laboratory, Pharmacy, and a Chapel. Construction is expected to begin December 2018. For more information on Thibodaux Regional Medical Center, visit Thibodaux.com. Touro Infirmary was recently awarded the 2017 Outstanding Achievement Award by the Commission on Cancer of the American College of Surgeons. Touro is one of a select group of 16 U.S. accredited cancer programs to receive this national honor for cancer surveys performed July 1 through December 31, 2017. The purpose of the award is to encourage cancer programs to raise the bar on quality cancer care, with the ultimate goal of increasing awareness about high quality, patient-centered care. “CoC accreditation is recognized as the gold standard in cancer care. Touro is honored to be among a select few programs nationwide to receive the commission’s 2017 Outstanding Achievement Award,” says Susan Andrews, Touro President and Chief Executive Officer. “This elite designation reflects Touro’s commitment to provide the highest level of cancer care for our patients.” Learn more about the Cancer Program at Touro online at www. touro.com/cancer. The LaNasa-Greco Center for Cancer and Blood Disorders at Children's Hospital treats more than 1,100 children with cancer or blood disorders each year, more than all other facilities in Louisiana combined. The hospital provides treatment and transplantation for children with leukemia, lymphoma, sickle cell anemia, hemophilia, and other childhood cancers and blood disorders. Children's Hospital's Cancer Program is accredited with an outstanding achievement award by the American College of Surgeons and is a member of the Children's Oncology Group (COG), a national study group of premier research institutes in the United States and Canada. The Bone Marrow Transplant Program is FACT-accredited since 2008. Hospital physicians have access to the most modern therapies for treatment of malignancies and blood disorders in children. Children's Hospital also received accreditation from the Department of Health and Human Services as a federally recognized Hemophilia Treatment Center (HTC), to provide state-of-the-art comprehensive multispecialty care to Louisiana children with all types of bleeding disorders. For more information, contact Children's Hospital's Cancer Center at 504-896-9740 or chnola.org/cancer.• my n e w or l e a n s . com

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ADVERTISING SECTION Dr. Ralph. Katz is a board certified and fellowship trained orthopedic specialist who has performed over 500 minimally invasive procedures with consistently excellent outcomes. For the right patient who has failed conservative treatment (e.g. medication, physical therapy, injections), a minimally invasive microdiscectomy can be done in an outpatient setting with an incision that can be covered by a Band-Aid. The procedure typically takes less than an hour. Most patients can return to normal activities within three to six weeks. Additionally, Dr. Katz performs cervical and lumbar spinal fusions, utilizing small incisions with minimally invasive systems. He is one of few local surgeons who perform both cervical and lumbar disc replacements. Westside offers full-service, in-house x-rays, EMG/NCS, as well as physical therapy services with access to new rehabilitation equipment. Same day appointments can be accommodated. For more information, visit westsideortho.com or call 504-347-0243.

Dermatology

Specialty Medicine

hile we might catch the latest medical buzz from the evening news and articles posted online by friends and family, there are likely too many new technologies, procedures, and breakthroughs to keep track of. We’re bound to miss some information that might be helpful to us or a loved one. When you’ve got a complex medical situation that requires a specialist’s expertise, it’s helpful to know what local physicians and surgeons are available and what their offerings entail. From diagnosing and treating your lower back pain to tracking changes in potentially dangerous moles, treating varicose veins, or identifying the best weight-loss method for your body, specialists across Greater New Orleans have answers for a variety of questions. Many of these specialists make it a point to stay updated with the latest and greatest advances in their fields in addition to utilizing the cutting-edge technologies that make previously complex surgeries minimally invasive. Get the latest from the following specialists and specialties across the city.

Aesthetics Chronos Body Health and Wellness is a wellness center for the whole you. Chronos offers a comprehensive venue that combines fitness, nutrition, and beauty resources all under one roof, from the first-class, 24-hour fitness center with live and virtual classes and personal trainers to physician supervised weight-loss programs, dayspa, and medical-spa services. From coolsculpting to laser treatments, dermal fillers to hydrafacials, massages and nail services, the center has you covered and eliminates the need to drive to multiple providers. Dr. Mace Scott has 15 years of experience in medicine and is certified in aesthetics. He performs procedures in the clinic and oversees the team of medical aestheticians. The goal of Chronos Body Health and Wellness is to help people become their best through personalized treatment that focuses on the individual. Every relationship between a provider and an individual is therefore unique to each person’s needs. For more information call 504-267-4549.

Orthopedics Serving the West Bank and Greater New Orleans region, Westside Orthopaedic Clinic provides superior general orthopaedic treatment with a specialty in spinal care. The clinic has been in operation since 1961, making it one of the longest standing orthopaedic clinics in the city. 106

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Led by Erin Boh, MD, PhD, Tulane’s Department of Dermatology employs experts in dermatologic care, including treatment of psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, and skin cancer. These doctors offer the latest and most cutting-edge treatments for skin disease. Tulane Dermatology offers comprehensive skin checks for patients at risk for skin cancer. Tulane’s Total Body Photography studio is a noninvasive tool in the early detection of melanoma by utilizing digital photography to track changes in moles. Tulane dermatologists treat all spectra of skin diseases in pediatric and adult populations and also provide cosmetic treatments and services such as neurotoxins for wrinkles, fillers for deep wrinkles, and chemical peels. The faculty are national leaders in dermatology who train the next generation of dermatologists while providing state of the art treatments. Tulane faculty serve as principal investigators in clinical trials and research and are able to offer new therapeutic modalities not yet offered by other dermatologists. To schedule an appointment, call 1-504-988-1700 (Downtown) or 985-893-1291 (Covington).

Vein Care Your solution for varicose veins and venous disease is now located on both the south shore and north shore. At La Bella Vita Laser and Vein Center, Dr. Randall S. Juleff works to resolve venous insufficiency problems with a non-invasive laser therapy called Endovenous Laser Ablation. Performed in a comfortable office setting under oral or IV sedation, the procedure requires no down time and, due to its medical nature, is covered by numerous insurance plans. According to Dr. Juleff, varicose veins are much more than an aesthetics issue—they are signs of venous disease, which can jeopardize one’s health. Venous insufficiency is a chronic and often hereditary condition that affects 80 million Americans. When left untreated, it can cause leg swelling, chronic pain and cramps, restless leg syndrome, varicose veins, and even skin damage. Dr. Juleff is triple-board-certified in Phlebology, General Surgery, and Cardiovascular and Thoracic Surgery. For information, a consultation, or Center locations, call 504-836-6000 (Metairie) or 985892-2950 (Covington) or visit LaBellaVitaVein.com.

Pharmacy, Insurance, & Other Health Resources The CBD Store of New Orleans is located at 3613 Magazine Street and specializes in all things CBD. Cannabidiol or CBD has been a big topic of conversation in the media and elsewhere due to its medical qualities. CBD is a cannabinoid found in the cannabis/hemp plant; our bodies also naturally produce cannabinoids, though most of us don't produce enough for one reason or another. The products carried at The CBD Store promote your body to produce more, which puts your Endocannabinoid system (ECS) into homeostasis. In turn, this can help with inflammation, chronic pain, anxiety, depression, migraines, Crohns, fibromyalgia, arthritis, and even addiction.

ADVERTISING SECTION According to Dr. David Allen, retired Cardiac Surgeon and member of the ICRS, "The discovery of the Endocannabinoid System (ECS) is the single most important medical scientific discovery ever, and the manipulation of the ECS will save more lives than are currently saved by surgery." When you ready for an all-natural alternative, then come to The CBD Store of New Orleans to get the help without the high. For more information call 504-702-8989 or visit the store website at CBDRX4U.com. With over 50 years of experience in the healthcare industry, over 30 years of experience in Medicare, and over 14 years in Louisiana, Humana has long been a trusted local provider of health insurance, Medicare guidance, and other health resources. This year, Medicare Open Enrollment begins on October 15 and ends on December 7. The freedom to choose your Medicare plan is a good thing, but if you're new to it, the choices may seem overwhelming. Humana is committed to keeping things simple and to helping you make confident decisions about what’s right for you. In addition to providing assistance with insurance and Medicare, Humana is excited to offer community seminars for locals interested in taking more control of their health. Humana invites visitors to their new neighborhood location, where health and wellness educational seminars are hosted by local physicians and Humana’s own health educator. These wellness seminars are open to the public at no cost. To learn more about how you can take control of your health, visit Humana’s neighborhood location at 747 Veterans Memorial Blvd. or call 504-840-0906. When a local patient was recently recommended to have a prostate MRI exam by his physician, he went to Diagnostic Imaging Services (DIS) which saved him nearly $650 when compared to the hospital he was told to go to for the study. DIS also saved a woman over $7,500 when she needed four exams and had no insurance coverage; the hospital wanted over $2,700 per scan.

Independent imaging providers such as Diagnostic Imaging Services provide the high quality people and their doctors want at much more affordable rates than area hospitals. Almost every diagnostic test can be performed at DIS at the same—if not better—quality than hospitals so you don’t sacrifice quality for cost. Just because a medical procedure is more expensive doesn’t mean it’s better quality. When not urgent or an emergency, choose independent imaging and save money. Choose the largest independently owned imaging organization in Louisiana. Choose Diagnostic Imaging Services. Doctor trusted. Patient preferred. DIS offers locations in Metairie, Marrero, Slidell and Covington. For more info, visit disnola.com. Generations of families have turned to Patio Drugs for assistance in managing their healthcare needs. Family owned and operated since 1958, Patio Drugs helps customers understand their medications, both prescription and over-the-counter, and provides free prescription delivery throughout East Jefferson. A full-service pharmacy and the oldest independent pharmacy in Jefferson Parish, Patio Drugs is also a leading provider of home medical equipment. For everything from a Band-Aid, to medication, to a hospital bed, Patio Drugs is the one-stop source for your family’s healthcare needs. In addition to providing retail and medical equipment, Patio Drugs can assist with long-term care as well as specialty and compounding services. Patio Drugs is accredited by The Joint Commission in Home Medical Equipment, Long Term Care, and Consultant Pharmacy Services. Their Compounding Pharmacy is PCAB accredited through ACHC. Patio Drugs is located at 5208 Veterans Boulevard in Metairie. For more information, call 504-889-7070. Patio Drugs, “Large Enough to Serve You, Yet, Small Enough to Know You.” •

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PROMOTIONAL

New Orleans Magazine hosted its annual People to Watch soiree where the 2018 class of exceptional people were recognized. Held at The Chicory, over 150 guests attended to toast this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s honorees which include: Allison Albert Ward, Sherwood Collins. April Dupre, Kevin Fitzwilliam, Jeremy Fogg, Leigh Isaacson, Ashley Porter, Katy Hobgood Ray, Wendy Rodrigue Magnus, Caroline Rosen, Michael J. Sawaya, Cleveland Spears, Zach Strief, Dr. Catherine Wilbert and Edward Wycliff. The event was sponsored by:

PROMOTIONAL

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ETC.

Renee Boutique Turns 3 and Goes Digital When so many Main Streets look the same these days, one of the wonders of our city is the boutique fashion industry. A Renee Boutique, just off Jackson Square is a great example. Owner April Renee seeks out small designers to create a stylish inventory for sizes XS to XXL. You will find handmade bags from Madagascar, unique clothing in fabulous colours and beautiful fabrics. Celebrating its third anniversary, the boutique has also opened up online with free shipping and returns. 824 Chartres Street, 418-1448, AReneeBoutique.com.

Historic Creole Mourning Tour Opens at St. Joseph Plantation Built by slaves in 1830, St. Joseph’s sugar plantation was home to some of the most high profile figures of the 19th century. From October 1 to November 3, it will host its annual “Creole Mourning Tour,” featuring the customs and rituals of the 18th and 19th century Roman Catholic Creoles. The house will be dressed in full deep mourning with a black-draped coffin. On certain weekends, there will be live reenactments of the people and customs who lived there. Tickets are available online. 3535 Highway 18, Vacherie, LA, 225-265-4078, StJosephPlantation.com.

By Mirella Cameran

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streetcar

A Russian Landing

woman I know tells the story of a day when she, as a young girl, was riding her bicycle. Right at noon there was a loud blast in the otherwise quiet summer day. She was so startled by the sudden noise that she fell from the bike and scraped herself in several places. Blame it on the Russians. There is a generation that remembers the days of the “Cold War” when we were taught to be prepared for nuclear attack by the evil Soviet Union. Nikita Khrushchev, the Russian Premier, had given the world a warning when he infamously yelled “We will bury you!” Fallout shelters, in which we were supposed to survive the nuclear aftermath, if we were lucky, were built throughout the country. Civil defense sirens that 128

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spooked not only little girls, but also everyone else, were tested periodically. They were the sound of doom. For several years the U.S. Air Force’s Strategic Air Command, had bombers prepared to be in the air at all times. They were loaded with nuclear missiles. If Russia ever sent anything our way it would be annihilated. In all aspects of our lives, fact and fiction, the Russians were the enemy. Good and evil were easy to distinguish. I thought about that as I walked from the cruise boat to the tour bus in St. Petersburg. Take away the past and the town looks like most other grandiose but slightly bruised European cities. Its new generation, which knows Khrushchev only from the history books, is part of

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by errol laborde

the backpack-toting, smartphoneobsessed, headphone-wearing global nation. Communism? Ha! Two days earlier in Estonia, a free nation that was once part of the Soviet empire, a tour guide half-joked that there are two religions there, capitalism and basketball. The gospel of the former is certainly prevalent in Russia. A hot item, especially in the tourist areas, is those Matryoshka dolls, the roly-poly figures in which several versions of the same doll are packed in descending order inside. They come big, elegant and expensive, and also thimble sized for souvenirs. At one store some of the dolls were made to the likeness of Vladimir Putin and to Donald Trump. The proletariat is dictating. Rather than ruling the world, the “Communist Party of the Russian Federation,” the successor to the original communist party, is a distant second in membership in its own country, far behind the more flexible United Russia party. Nevertheless, I occasionally reminded myself that, to my astonishment, I was in Russia. On the first day, getting off the boat was the most demanding, as nononsense stern-faced authorities closely checked and computerized our identities. On subsequent days the process was less stringent. By the third day, instead of handing the inspector my passport that was in one hand, I absentmindedly handed him my cup of coffee from the other. We laughed. I offered to him a cookie. He declined. After stepping on Russian soil for the first time, a military helicopter happened to fly over. I thought that for the first time in my life I am under the protection of the soviet armed forces. Only now there are no sirens.

There is love in some places. Several times I would see a girl in a white dress, usually escorted by a guy in a coat and tie, and maybe a few family members or friends, walking by. As is common in much of Europe, weddings are made official by going to some government office where papers are officially signed. The couple has the option to follow up with a ceremony in a church or public place, but the real marrying is done by a bureaucrat rather than a priest. One couple was doing photo-ops on the lawn of Peter the Great’s fountain-rich palace. It was Peter whose idea it was to, in 1703, found the city. Located at the western top of Russia, he wanted a city on the Nivea River that would lead to the Baltic Sea where his country could gain contact with the rest of the world. As a young man he travelled through the other great cities of Europe. Like New Orleans, St. Petersburg was built on a river with designs influenced by Paris. Moscow would be cold and gray; St. Petersburg would be colorful and enlightened. It would also eventually be battered both physically and spiritually by Nazis and the internal politics of the cold war. In Peter’s day he needed an outlet to fight the Swedish Navy. Now there is a different seaborne invasion -- tour boats bringing several thousand visitors each day. “I know someone I would like for you to meet,” a tourist told a particularly effervescent Russian female tour guide. “He lives in California.” “I love California,” the tour guide answered enthusiastically. The old Russia was looking for an ideology. The new Russia is looking for a life.

ARTHUR NEAD Illustration