NOSH B Y JY L B E N S O N
Friday Feast
A new Lenten classic from GW Fins For Catholics, the practice of forgoing the consumption of meat during Lent (Ash Wednesday until Easter Sunday) has its roots in the early days of the church and the “Black Fast,” when the righteous were expected to partake of no more than one meal each day throughout the season, with that one repast being devoid of meat, dairy, oil, or wine. Over the ages church law evolved to view the seasonal avoidance of meat on Fridays-only to be sufficient to fulfill the Lenten obligation for penance. In Louisiana, the absence of meat is replaced by an abundance of seafood, which starts to hit its annual stride in early spring—fortuitously right about the time when Lent hits. Crawfish season is underway, both brown and white shrimp are available, finfish are plentiful, crabs are just coming in, and oysters are still going strong. Yes, truly, in a region so rich in delicious seafood this penance seems less of a sacrifice and more an indulgence. Regardless of your religious affiliation, which would you rather have, another pot roast or this vibrant shrimp-based meal? Thought so. Because I am not ashamed to ask favors of friends in high places, I asked Michael Nelson, executive chef at GW Fins, to create a custom, Lent-appropriate, seasonal recipe for our NOSH readers. This easy, healthy, flavorful meal is the result. Enjoy.
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Take the time to pick through beets in the grocery or farmer’s market. Acquiring small to medium-sized beets that are all about the same size will ensure even cooking and a nicer final presentation.
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MARCH 2022
If buying shell-on shrimp that you will peel and devein yourself, start with two pounds as you will lose half the weight to shells (use them to make a quick stock for the freezer). If buying shrimp that are pre-peeled and deveined, they will most likely be frozen. You will need one pound. Factor in time for them to defrost before starting the recipe.
3 With a deep red hue, a glossy appearance, and trademark citrusy tartness, sumac is a common spice in Middle Eastern cooking and lauded worldwide for its bold flavor and health-giving properties. Its culinary history dates back beyond the Roman empire. It is inexpensive and available locally at Mediterranean markets such as Mona’s Café & Deli, 3901 Banks St., 482-7743, monascafeanddeli.com; and the International Market, 3940 Barron St., 888-8832.
