New Orleans Magazine October 2023

Contents

DIAL 12, D1

The World War II drama, "World on Fire,” returns to MASTERPIECE on WYES for Season 2 on Sunday, October 15 at 8:00 p.m. That same night, catch some of PBS' most awaited dramas including HOTEL PORTOFINO, MASTERPIECE “Annika, Season 2,” and new to PBS — LITTLE BIRD. Watch all-new seasons on Sunday, October 15 on WYES-TV, wyes.org/live and on the WYES and PBS Apps.

Photograph by Kat Kimball

FROM THE EDITOR

This month’s issue is pretty as a picnic, with plenty of food, festivals and some spooky history sprinkled in. Our cover feature has all you need to pack the perfect picnic brunch, lunch or early-evening outing. In fact, our blanket had so many delicious offerings at the photo shoot, we attracted a gaggle of small white ibises looking to snag some snacks. It’s the perfect time to take advantage of (somewhat) lower humidity and temps, so grab a basket, backpack or tote and enjoy!

October naturally has us thinking about all things spiritual and celestial, and to that end we have a primer on and appreciation of the history of our beautifully haunting historic cemeteries. Our “cities of the dead” are unlike any in the world, and now is the perfect time to reflect on New Orleans history and those that made the city from its very beginning.

We also have our 2023 fall festival guide. From food to music, culture and the arts, we’ve got your calendar guide through the end of the year. It’s packed with things to do each month, including annual favorites, like the Oak Street Poboy Festival and City Park’s Ghosts in the Oaks, as well as new fests, such as Sober Fest, offering a fun alternative to celebrating with plenty of food and entertainment without the hangover.

Fall may be my favorite season. From outdoor fun to football season, gumbo cooking and not-so-scary haunts, it’s a great time to get out and enjoy the city.

ASHLEY MCLELLAN, EDITOR

Film Seen

HELLO JULIA AND POYDRAS,

Driving around and seeing the Halloween decorations make me think about scary movies. Wasn’t the movie “The Blob” filmed in Louisiana?

ARHTEL FREEMAN, LAPLACE.

Depends which “Blob” you are talking about, Arthel. There were three to the series. The third, released in 1968, was filmed in and around the Vermilion parish town of Abbeville, which played the role of Arborville, California. For the plot, (don’t you hate when this happens?) an amoeba-like organism crashes down to Earth in a military satellite. As it grows, the acidic thing devours and dissolves anything in its path.

Soldiers and scientists are the implied villains. We won’t tell you how the blob was eventually subdued, partially because Poydras was afraid to watch the final scene and missed the ending. We do know that the whole mess could have been avoided at the beginning if they had just tossed the blob into a pot of boiling crawfish.

HI JULIA,

Feeling sad about Jimmy Buffett, I was just wondering, is Poydras a Parrothead?

LILLY FRENCH, HARAHAN

Yes Lilly, very much so, in both body and mind.

HEY JULIA, Football season reminds me of a movie set around the Saints. Do you remember what it was?

RYAN RHONE

Do I remember? Of course! That was a film called “Number One,” staring Charlton Heston. It was released in 1969. The Saints franchise was still new then, having been founded in 1966. I remember the producer staying that the Saints team was chosen for the story since it was so new that there would be less identification with actual players.

Heston played Ron “Cat” Catlan, the Saints quarterback who was reaching the end of his career. He was also facing marital turmoil, alcoholism and tough knocks on the football field.

(“Bill Kilmer, who was the real Saints Quarterback at the time coached Heston to look the part, although his unform reportedly looked a little baggy.)

Originally to be known as “The Pro,” the movie’s title was changed along the way.

In addition to his wife’s threat to leave him, Catlan has other bumps along the way. In one scene, the team was playing the Dallas Cowboys. The Cowboy defense, played by actual Saints’ players, overplayed their role by crushing Heston with a violent sack.

On a better day, Catlan is shown arriving at his French Quarter home and parking right in front. Must have been some sort of quarterback privilege.

“Number One” did not live up to its name at the box office. It lost money, although Heston won some favorable reviews from critics.

He also established a still standing NFL credential. Those who remember Heston in the Movie “The Ten Commandments” could have witnessed Moses before he was a quarterback.

Associate Publisher Kate Henry

EDITORIAL

Editor Ashley McLellan

Creative Director Tiffani Reding Amedeo

Digital Media Editor Kelly Massicot

Style Editor Andy Myer

Executive Editor Errol Laborde

Contributing Writers Jyl Benson, Cheré Coen, Lee Cutrone, Fritz Esker, Scott Gold, John Kemp, Misty Milioto, Liz Scott Monaghan, Elizabeth Pearce, Eve Crawford Peyton

ADVERTISING AND MARKETING

Vice President of Sales and Marketing Kate Henry, Kate@MyNewOrleans.com

Account Director Meggie Schmidt

Senior Account Executives Erin Chiartano, Brooke Genusa, Rachel Webber

MARKETING

Marketing Manager Greer Stewart

RENAISSANCE PUBLISHING

PRODUCTION

Manager Rosa Balaguer Arostegui

Senior Designer Meghan Rooney

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CIRCULATION

Subscriptions Jessica Armand

Distribution John Holzer

ADMINISTRATION

Office Manager Mallary Wolfe

Chief Executive Officer Todd Matherne

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Executive Editor Aislinn Hinyup

Associate Editor Dominic Massa

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NEW ORLEANS MAGAZINE

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SEND US YOUR QUESTIONS

Poydras is looking for something to do. Send your questions to julia@myneworleans.com and be sure to include your name and information. For the subject line use: Julia and Poydras Question.

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Tricks and Treats

Check out the second season of our not-too-scary podcast “Beyond the Grave” for spooky stories, haunted history and chilling tales about life after death in New Orleans. Plus, season one is also available, so be sure to like and subscribe to stay up to date on all. MyNewOrleans.com

COMFORT COOKING

This month’s NOSH features a cozy fall risotto, perfect for a family gathering or friendly gettogether at home. Follow along with Mamou’s chef Tom Branighan on Instagram for inside tips and tricks for our special recipe series each third Tuesday of the month. @ neworleansmag

ON ASSIGNMENT

Looking for fun things to do, places to go and special events to try? Catch up with New Orleans Magazine editor Ashley McLellan’s weekly rundown of her upcoming city calendar.

EDITORS’ PICKS

What are the best places to find Saints’ gear? Who has the top pizza pies? Where can you get the perfect hostess gift? Each Friday, check out our team of editors’ personal picks and see if your favorites made our list.

BY FRITZ ESKER

“LET THE RIGHT ONE IN”

This stage adaptation of the haunting Swedish horror film is both a scary vampire story and a touching coming-of-age love story, Oct. 5-22 at Le Petit Theatre. LePetitTheatre.com

“A WONDERFUL WORLD”

A new musical about the life and music of the Crescent City’s favorite son, Louis Armstrong, comes to the Saenger from Oct. 1-8. SaengerNOLA.com

DEPECHE MODE

Eighties new wave legends Depeche Mode are coming to the Smoothie King Center on Oct. 7 for their “Memento Mori” tour, performing old favorites as well as their new single “Ghosts Again.” SmoothieKingCenter.com

GRAND KYIV BALLET

Ballet fans will want to circle the date of Oct. 7, for the Grand Kyiv Ballet’s performance of “Snow White” in a matinee performance, and an evening performance of “Swan Lake” at the Jefferson Performing Arts Center. Tickets for each event must be purchased separately. jpas.org

CELTIC THUNDER

Celtic Thunder’s new show “Odyssey” takes the audience on a breathtaking journey through traditional and contemporary Irish music, Oct. 28 at the Saenger. SaengerNOLA.com

WINSTON CHURCHILL: THE BLITZ

Actor and speaker Randy Otto embodies Winston Churchill in this one-man performance set during the terrifying days of the Blitz, Oct. 13-15 at BB’s Stage Door Canteen at the National World War II Museum. NationalWW2Museum.org

KREWE OF BOO

If you miss Mardi Gras, get a fall parade fix with the Krewe of Boo. Rolling from the Marigny through the French Quarter and the CBD on Oct. 21, this parade features delightfully ghoulish floats from Kern Studios. KreweOfBoo.com

“THE SEAGULL OR HOW TO EAT IT”

The NOLA Project updates Anton Chekhov’s play “The Seagull” to modern Louisiana. The Andrepont family camp is full of romantic longing and complicated relationships in this dark comedy. Performances run Oct. 12-30 at the New Orleans Museum of Art. NOLAProject.com

JANELLE MONAE

The R&B singer and star of “Glass Onion: A Knives Out Mystery” comes to the Orpheum on Oct. 7 as part of her “The Age of Pleasure” tour, with special guests Jidenna, Flyana Boss, and Nana Kwabena. OrpheumNOLA.com

LPO: “GET OUT” IN CONCERT

The Oscar-winning 2017 horror film “Get Out” will screen at the Orpheum on Oct. 12 with a live performance of the score by the Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra. OrpheumNOLA.com

“ASSASSINS”

“THE EXORCIST”

Movie fans looking to get into a Halloween frame of mind should check out Fathom Events’ 50th anniversary screening of “The Exorcist,” with screenings Oct. 1 and 4 at AMC Elmwood Palace, AMC Westbank Palace, and AMC Clearview Palace. FathomEvents.com

LEANNE MORGAN

Comedian Leanne Morgan comes to the Saenger for one night only on Oct. 14 as part of her “Just Getting Started” tour. SaengerNOLA.com

Rivertown Theaters for the Performing Arts presents “Assassins,” Oct. 20-Nov. 5, Stephen Sondheim’s darkly comic study of John Wilkes Booth, Lee Harvey Oswald, and history’s other infamous assassins. RivertownTheaters.com

“YOUNG FRANKENSTEIN”

The beloved 1974 Mel Brooks comedy classic about the misadventures of Dr. Frankenstein’s grandson gets a delightfully zany musical treatment from the Jefferson Performing Arts Society, Oct. 27-Nov. 5. jpas.org

Check all event websites for the most up-to-date information.

BY MISTY MILIOTO BAR TAB

Tropical Paradise

Birdy’s Behind the Bower, the charming restaurant in the Lower Garden District, has released an array of fall cocktails with a flair for the tropics. For example, the Chinola Aperol Spritz features Dominican Chinola, Aperol, sparkling wine and soda. Meanwhile, the Spicy Green Bird perks things up with tequila blanco, Ancho Reyes green poblano, and fresh lime and pineapple juices. Or try the Caipirinha, Brazil’s national drink made with cachaça, muddled lime, sugar and plenty of ice. 1320 Magazine St., 504-302-2992, birdysnola.com

BRING ON THE BOURBON

Bib & Tucker

Small Batch

Bourbon launched its new savory and smoky Double Char Bourbon in May, and it’s now available in New Orleans. The Double Char Bourbon is first aged for six years in new white American oak, followed by a minimum of five months in a second heavily charred and smoked new barrel. bibandtuckerbourbon.com

TOP TASTINGS

The Bombay Club is partnering with a featured spirit each month through the end of the year to offer a tasting event with straight tasting pours and a choice of three curated cocktails - all accompanied by small bites and live music. The event takes place on the first Wednesday of every month (Oct. 4, Nov. 1 and Dec. 6), and tickets are $40. 830 Conti St., 504-577-2237, bombayclubneworleans.com

BUBBLY JUBILEE

Bubbles at Brennan’s, the iconic pink restaurant’s happy hour, Thursday through Monday, 9 a.m.-6 p.m., features Champagne sabering in the courtyard (at 5 p.m.), reduced prices on selections of top Champagnes and sparkling wines, and bar snacks (available beginning at 2 p.m.). 417 Royal St., 504-5259711, brennansneworleans.com

IN THE SPIRIT

Anna’s, a local pub in the Marigny, is offering a spooky cocktail menu this month. Expect cocktails built around Halloween hues with beverages that are blood red, the darkest black and an eerie orange. 2601 Royal St., 504-766-8376, annasnola.com

ART + LIBATIONS

Café NOMA at the New Orleans Museum of Art hosts

Wednesday Night Happy Hour, 3-6 p.m., featuring $6 cocktails like the NOMA-Groni (gin, Campari, sweet vermouth and an orange wedge), along with $6 wines by the glass and $5 beers and a rotating selection of small plates. 1 Collins Diboll Circle, 504-3815107, cafenoma. com

TINY BUT MIGHTY

Atlanta-based canned cocktail company Tip Top Proper Cocktails has brought its bartender-crafted selection of classic ready-to-drink cocktails to New Orleans. Crafted by acclaimed Atlanta mixologist and seven-time James Beard Award nominee, Miles Macquarrie, the 100ml cocktails include Old Fashioned, Espresso Martini, Bee’s Knees, Daiquiri, Gin Martini, Manhattan, Margarita, Negroni and, most recently, Jungle Bird. An eighth cocktail, the Boulevardier, will be released this month. tiptopcocktails.com

SIGNATURE SPARKLING

Commander’s Palace has released its first nationally available private wine label, Crémant de Bourgogne Brut. The signature pinot noir-based sparkling wine is produced in partnership with Terres Secrètes and made with grapes from the Mâconnais region of Burgundy. Expect hints of red berries and light spice-forward notes with a toasty richness to finish. Try the wine by the half-glass, glass and bottle at the historic restaurant. Commander’s Palace also will release a collection of branded cocktail mixers before the end of the year. 1403 Washington Ave., 504-899-8221, commanderspalace.com

BY MISTY MILIOTO

Warm Welcome

Dario Montelvere has joined Four Seasons Hotel New Orleans as executive chef, leading all culinary operations at the hotel, including catering and events, in-room dining, pastry and the culinary teams in Miss River, Chemin à la Mer and Chandelier Bar (working with the hotel’s chef partners Donald Link and Alon Shaya). A 21-year veteran of Four Seasons, Montelvere previously worked alongside Four Seasons Hotel Sydney’s pioneering chef Serge Nasreau and chef Lynn Crawford of Iron Chef America. 2 Canal St., 504-434-5100, fourseasons.com/neworleans

While at the Four Seasons Hotel New Orleans, be sure to check out Chemin à la Mer’s Oyster Hour (3-5 p.m. daily in the Purple Grackle Bar and on the terrace), with a rotating selection of $2 oysters with $10 wine and spritz pairings from sommelier Emily Kitzmiller. In addition to raw oysters, an all-day raw bar menu is available featuring tuna crudo with snow peas, mint and sauce chien; peel-and-eat steamed Louisiana shrimp; and Ōra King salmon ceviche with cucumber, red onion, lime, mint and chiles. 2 Canal St., 504-434-5898, fourseasons.com

PINK PARTY

Brennan’s - the historic pink restaurant in the French Quarter - is serving a pink cotton candy cake with a hidden baby-sized pink ice cream-topped cupcake to anyone on their birthday. This offering is only available to those in the know (as it’s by special request only). Be sure to pair it with some pink cocktails for a truly festive fete. 417 Royal St., 504-525-9711, brennansneworleans.com

ART OF COOKING

The George Rodrigue Foundation of the Arts has launched a new cookbook, “The Pot & The Palette Cookbook II” ($30), featuring artwork by talented high school students and more than 100 recipes contributed by renowned chefs from across the state. The book also contains a dedication to the late Chef Paul Prudhomme, serving as a lasting testament to his influence on Louisiana’s culinary landscape.

BUDDIES WHO BRUNCH

Compère Lapin recently brought back its popular Sunday brunch. In addition to boozy cocktails and bottomless brunch punch, guests can enjoy dishes like tater tots with crème fraiche and caviar, buttermilk biscuits with jam and whipped ricotta, fried chicken with biscuits and hot honey, shrimp and grits with Creole sauce, and French toast with Chantilly cream and rum caramel. 535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504599-2119, comperelapin.com

Meanwhile, Tujague’s - the second-oldest restaurant in New Orleans - is offering brunch Fri.-Sun. Enjoy the restaurant’s famous shrimp and grits, the Croque Madame, or the cochon de lait Benedict. Also be sure to order the bottomless mimosas. 429 Decatur St., 504-525-8676, tujaguesrestaurant.com

PINK PROTECTOR

Camellia Brand, which celebrates its 100th anniversary this year, is highlighting its pink beans this month to coincide with Breast Cancer Awareness month. Pink beans, a miniature and lighter version of red beans, are known for their zesty, meaty flavor and powdery texture. camelliabrand.com

WINE AND DINE

Josephine Estelle, the osteria located within the Ace Hotel New Orleans, is celebrating National Pasta Day (Oct. 17) with a pastamaking and wine-tasting event from 2-4 p.m. Join Executive Chef Trey Williams as he shows how to create and hand-roll pasta dough, followed by a cooking demo. Meanwhile, Sergi Fernandez will talk participants through a wine-tasting to cap off the meal. Tickets are $120. 600 Carondelet St., 504-930-3070, josephineestelle.com

Inspired by a traditional tartan pattern, this polo features a toile depicting scenes from the Scottish Highlands. With a knit rib collar and banded cuffs, and crafted from Greyson’s signature performance fabric, it’s a hole in one and off the green year. Available at Greyson Clothiers, greysonclothiers.com.

BY ANDY MYER

Mad for Plaid

It’s hard to think plaid without conjuring classic Ralph Lauren prep vibes. This greatlooking color combo, woven on a rustic cotton, has a timeless look and is finished with a hidden zipper. Toss a few in your favorite space and instantly change the feel. Available at Sunday Shop, sundayshop.co.

With a thick pile that is super soft under foot, West Elm’s Grid Plaid Shag Rug is handcrafted in India from a wool and cotton blend in a Fair Trade Certified™ facility. Perfect for a family room, study or any other area you want to fill with luxe coziness. Available at West Elm, westelm.com

The Bailey Giger Multiweave Panama Hat from Meyer the Hatter is handwoven in Ecuador and finished in the U.S. Featuring a teardrop crown, snap brim and Japanese grosgrain band, this stately topper will stylishly finish your ensemble. Available at Meyer the Hatter, meyerthehatter.com.

Veronica Beard’s popular Beacon Dickey Blazer pairs well with jeans, slacks, dresses –you name it. The popular jacket has been updated in a menswear plaid on a breathable yet substantial linen base with an elongated silhouette for a laid-back look. Available at Saks Fifth Avenue, saksfifthavenue.com.

‘Tis the season for a Nola take on plaid, with lightweight fabrics and airy colors that transition from fall to spring.

BY KELLY MASSICOT PERSONA

NICK SPITZER

Music is a universal language, and New Orleans has been fluent for centuries. Over the last two decades, Nick Spitzer has used New Orleans as a host and backdrop for his weekly public radio show “American Routes,” which highlights and celebrates all genres of music and the cultures that produced them. In September, Spitzer was honored at the Library of Congress as one of nine National Heritage Fellows by the National Endowment of the Arts for his aid in preserving cultural heritage. Spitzer talks about the road to “American Routes,” plus some of his favorite interviews and stories.

Q. What do you think makes the show click so well with listeners? I like to think that a lot of people are looking for entertainment, if you give them enough that they recognize they like it. And if you play something that sounds near it, it keeps the right mood. It’s not like we’re pointing a finger and saying, “You like Western swing music, you should like jazz,” or “You like jazz, you should like country jazz or bluesy jazz.” So, we’re not telling people what to do. We’re just trying to hold them with the greatness of the sound and the song. And to me, that’s more persuasive than arguing with people about things. I feel like you only persuade people by reaching them through aspects to their hearts. I think there’s a lot of great music we have in New Orleans, Louisiana, the Gulf South. I call our format, “Gulf South by Southwest.” It allows for out migration to California; you can argue to the north of Detroit and Chicago. We’re reaching the country and there is no other public media that I know of, on the air, and I mean television and radio weekly, from Austin to at least Chapel Hill, North Carolina. Cultural performance music radio, we’re really one of the only two or three in the country. And in that zone, we are the only service of any kind that’s a weekly service. I’m proud of what we built. And yes, I do think the diversity draws people, but I also think that all the years in radio, I’ve gotten used to helping people by programming as much by mood, as by genre. Mood keeps people attuned and entertained. I think giving people something to listen to, in the foreground and background. That’s sort of the entertaining magic of radio.

that period in the ‘60s and ‘70s, when you had all this new music, but even now, in the era of podcasts. I think radio is subtle, and reaches people in all kinds of places. I always feel like I’m in a kind of a conversation with that huge number of listeners out there that I rarely get to see unless I go do an event somewhere. It makes me feel good to deliver things that people enjoy. I’m an anthropologist, I admit, in folklore. I teach at Tulane; it fits my sense of what people with scholarly research background should do, which is find ways to communicate with more people about what they value in society, and what can help people live together in a complicated social order. In a sense, I think it helps people feel like they’re part of a larger cultural realm. That doesn’t threaten them, it entertains them first. And then if they’re entertained, like I say then follow your heart to the next level.

Lagniappe: What area of the city do you like to go to listen to music in the city? Frenchman Street.

Is there a local artist you’re watching now or is a favorite? Aurora Nealand

Favorite artist of all time? Jerry Lee Lewis

Q. What’s your favorite part of hosting the show? Radio, you can have it in your car, and there’s no screen to look at. It functions in the visual imagination, even though it has no visual, and I love that. It’s really an older medium that we’ve been able to bring back to life. Particularly, in

Q. What do you think has been the lasting impact of New Orleans on the culture of music outside of the city? Well, I mean, there are debates about its power to beginnings with jazz. In jazz itself, many elders always say, you could have gospel, you could have some blues, you could have a Sousa march, you could have a pop song, and we jazz it up. I think jazz begins in a mingling of dominantly, African, Caribbean and European instrumentation and some influences. It just becomes more and more inclusive of more people. It gets on the radio, it gets heard. Armstrong goes first to Chicago and then to New York. Jelly Roll Morton goes out to California; eventually it spreads

to the major metropoles. And then finally, it becomes a global music, and it remains a global music. After jazz does come the brass bands and the continuing tradition of the second lines, and in turn it folds, soul and R&B, and now hip hop and some rap. And so I think New Orleans remains relevant. I think New Orleans remains a city where people come to hear not just traditional jazz, but brass bands and all kinds of music. I think it’s a place people have moved to, because they like the idea of music, not just in going to some huge concert hall or expensive nightclub, but they can walk down the street and buy a beer for $3. And listen to jazz for four hours for free. That has an enormous liberating effect on people. There’s really no place in America quite like that. The people love the city. Musicians and our audiences have created something that has staying power. Yeah, that’s admirable in the modern world for culture.

Q. Is there an interview or moment over the last few years that sticks out as a favorite?

I have so many favorite interviews. I’ve done 1,200 of them. Among the favorites are certainly Willie Nelson and Dolly Parton. Santana. And Jerry Lee Lewis. He was my first interview in college radio. But there’s so many great ones. I’m lucky to interview current artists of all kinds. I’m blessed. I’d love to interview Bob Dylan. He never does interviews. I’m hopeful that it’ll happen one day.

GREG MILES PHOTO

Stuck on You

Looking your best

My gentleman friend Lust has a brother we call Little Larry, because he’s named after his father, Big Larry. Although Little Larry took pains to tell me once that he ain’t really “little.” I said, “That’s nice,” and changed the subject. Men!

Now Little Larry is finally getting married, thank God.

Lust’s side of the family is throwing a big wedding rehearsal dinner over at the Roosevelt, and I want to look decent for this thing. So I buy a long dress and high-heeled sandals from Dillard’s.

Then, the day of the dinner, I happen to look down at my feet, and my toenails look terrible — all uneven and stubby. And I got no time for a pedicure.

I call my daughter Gladiola at school and ask, “Can I use a set of your fake toenails? I’ll get you some more at Walmart.”

She says okay. She “don’t got any big plans until Halloween and…” but I am in too much of a hurry to listen to her plans for Halloween, so I say I’ll call back tomorrow.

Her room is a mess. But I found this pack of toenails on top her dresser. It includes glue. These toenails actually look orange to me, so I lay them on the counter and paint them shell pink with my own nail polish.

I get my makeup on, and my hair all fixed, and my dangly earrings hung from my ears, but before I pull my long dress over my head, I squat down on the bathroom floor to glue on the toenails.

Evidently, there is something wrong with the glue cap, because a lot of glue glops out the wrong end of the tube.

I jump up to grab some tissue to wipe it up, and accidentally step in the glue puddle. Turns out this is VERY strong glue. I had no idea. My foot is now glued to the bathroom floor.

Lust is around somewhere, but I ain’t going to yell for help. I refuse.

I use water out the tub faucet, and work at

it with my hands. I lose a few layers of skin but finally I wrench my foot off the floor and finish the toenails. They are kind of long, but I file them down into nice ovals.

I pull my dress on and slip my feet in my sandals and take Lust’s arm — he’s actually wearing a suit and tie—and we walk out to an Uber, feeling real snazzy.

The dinner is very nice, and we all toast with Champagne, and eat fish or chicken or beef, and there’s dancing after. I stand up to dance with Lust, and that’s when I realize my thighs are glued together. I must have had glue on my hand when I braced myself to stand up and put my hand on my leg. Or something.

So I need to excuse myself and hobble to the powder room and rip my legs apart. When I am walking back to Lust, I bump into Little Larry. “You missed your chance, Modine, but I couldn’t wait forever,” he whispers. What? I should haul off and smack him one. But I am a lady. “I know you’ll be very happy, um, Medium-size Larry,” I tell him. And then I strut away on my unglued legs.

Next day I talk to Gladiola about her Halloween plans. She says she went all the way to a Halloween store in Metairie or somewhere to get special orange glue-on fingernails which she and all her friends are going to be flashing with their sexy witch outfits.

“Um,” I say.

“How did my little pink press-ons you borrowed work out? The ones in my top drawer?”

So that’s why I am elbowing my way through a lot of creative creepy costumes at this Halloween place to scoop up the last pair of glue-on orange nails. “Maybe you’d like the matching nosewith-warts too?” asks the sales guy “The label says ‘little witch nose’ — but it ain’t little.” And he chuckles.

Enough is enough. “I LIKE them little,” I say, kind of loud. I slap down my money and storm out.

Men.

BY JOHN R. KEMP

Action heroes, spy thrillers, political drama, war, hurricanes and impressive art – those stories are all here at the New Orleans Lakefront Airport as seen in 1933 shortly after its construction. In its early years, it ranked among the nation’s largest and most advanced airports. And its main terminal building was, and is, an architectural splendor with a magnificent Art Deco interior that reflected the age of Amelia Earhart, the Great Gatsby, Bogart and Bacall, and a new age of international air travel.

Constructed by the Orleans Levee Board between 1929 and 1933 at a cost of about $4.5 million, the airport was one of Gov. Huey Long’s pet projects. True to political times in Louisiana, the Levee Board hired architects Weiss, Dreyfous and Seifert to design the airport. The firm also headed many of the governor’s favorite building projects including the “new” state Capitol in Baton Rouge as well as buildings on the LSU campus. Plans for the airport called for runways to extend out into Lake Pontchartrain and the main terminal to include a restaurant (as it does now), post office and overnight accommodations

for travelers, one of whom was Amelia Earhart who slept here in May 1937 during her ill-fated trip around the world. Fortunately, the architects who designed the terminal were masters of the Art Deco style. The company hired the Mexican-born New Orleans sculptor Enrique Alférez to create basrelief friezes for the building’s interior and exterior and Newcomb College art instructor Xavier Gonzalez to paint murals for the upstairs atrium walls, depicting the wonders of international air travel. Initially, the airport bore the name Shushan Airport for levee board chairman and Huey Long crony Abe Shushan, who emblazoned his name and initials throughout the airport, including doorknobs. That changed after the political scandals of the late 1930s when Shushan and other Long allies fell from power. Out went Shushan’s name and initials. And in 1939 the Levee Board renamed the airport New Orleans Airport, which remained the city’s primary airport until 1946 with the opening of Moisant Field, now Louis Armstrong International Airport, in Kenner.

Over the years, the lakefront airport has continued to service private, corporate, military and commercial flights. Architecturally speaking, however, it did suffer a bleak period beginning in 1964 when officials decided to “modernize” the airport. Interior ceilings were lowered and the walls, including Gonzalez’s murals, were covered with wooden panels. Large sections of Alférez’s exterior Art Deco designs were destroyed to make way for large, drab concrete slabs that covered the building’s exterior. And then came Hurricane Katrina in August 2005. Turning tragedy into opportunity, and thanks to hurricane restoration grants from the Federal Emergency Management Administration, or FEMA, the Orleans Levee District restored the terminal to its original and stunning architectural glory.

As a historical sidebar, the airport terminal served as a location for almost a dozen movies, including the James Bond 1973 spy thriller “Live and Let Die,” the 2011 superhero “Green Lantern,” and the Ray Charles 2004 biopic “Ray.”

New Orleans Lakefront Airport (Shushan Airport), 1933, The Historic New Orleans Collection, gift of F. Lee Eiseman

PICNIC

PICNIC

By Misty Milioto

PICK A SPOT

Audubon Park

With its ancient live oak trees, a 1.8-mile jogging path, lagoon, picnic shelters and playgrounds, Audubon Park is a local favorite spot for picnics. However, large groups (25 people or more) or picnics that include a barbecue or a boil, require a permit one month in advance. Meanwhile, Riverview Park (affectionally referred to as The Fly by locals) is located behind Audubon Zoo across the Mississippi River levee. It’s a great spot to bring Fido, toss the Frisbee and, of course, picnic. 6500 Magazine St., 504-8612537, audubonnatureinstitute.org

Coliseum Square Park

After this year’s brutally hot summer, we can all rejoice with fall’s cooler temps. And what better way than with a picnic in the park? Whether with a romantic partner, a group of friends or family, or even solo, picnics are a great way to embrace autumn breezes, maybe play some games (croquet anyone?) and enjoy a satisfying meal (or hey, even snacks). Forget the peanut butter and jelly sandwiches and six-pack of beer. Instead, elevate your next picnic with fantastic food and to-go drinks, fun yard games, and all of the accessories to make it a full-on event. Here’s how to make the most of your next picnic—and, with some practice, it may just become your new favorite activity.

Designed by Barthélémy Lafon in 1806, Coliseum Square Park originally was intended to be the focal point of the the Lower Garden District’s social and intellectual life. Today, it’s a bustling spot where bands sometimes play, neighbors gather with their dogs and locals spread out a blanket for picnic get-togethers. 1708 Coliseum St., tclf.org/coliseum-square

Crescent Park

One of the city’s newer parks, Crescent Park—part of the French Market District—is a 1.4 mile, 20-acre urban linear park. In addition to bike paths, a dog run and pavilions, the park features native landscaping and gorgeous views of the city. 2300 N. Peters St., 504-636-6400, crescentparknola.org

Jackson Square

A popular wedding spot, Jackson Square in the heart of the French Quarter also is a lovely spot for picnics. Grab some to-go food and drinks at one of the many surrounding restaurants and bars and enjoy your lunch while taking in the sights and sounds of this happening locale. 751 Decatur St.,504- 658-3200

Lafayette Square

Home to Wednesday at the Square (a free summer concert series featuring local acts) and a fall blues music festival, Lafayette Square is a beautiful refuge in the heart of the Central Business District. S. Maestri St., 504-658-3201

Lakeshore Drive

Lakeshore Drive, which hugs the south bank of Lake Pontchartrain, offers grassy areas that are perfect for picnics—all while watching the sunset over the lake. Post up by The Blue Crab Restaurant and Oyster Bar so you can grab a few frozen drinks while you’re at it. 7900 Lakeshore Drive, 504-284-2898, thebluecrabnola.com

It’s always a good time for a picnic, but especially so in the fall.

Photography by Kat Kimball

Picnic Styled by Pretty Little Picnics

Louis Armstrong Park

Louis Armstrong Park is not only home to Congo Square and Mahalia Jackson Theater, but also sculptures, duck ponds and plenty of open spaces for picnics. On Oct. 21, be sure to catch L.O.C.A.L.S’ Fest featuring Brass-A-Holics, Bobbie Rae and Daria & The Hip Drops. 835 N. Rampart St., 504-658-3200

Magnolia Bridge at Bayou St. John

A popular neighborhood gathering spot on Harding Street at Bayou St. John, Magnolia Bridge dates back to the late

1800s. While the bridge itself is often used for weddings, the green space surrounding Magnolia Bridge is a great spot to picnic while watching kayakers and paddle boarders on the water. Harding Drive

Woldenberg Park

Offering some of the best views in New Orleans, Woldenberg Park offers plenty of green space perfect for a picnic and yard games. Make a day of it, and include a visit to the nearby and newly reimagined Audubon Aquarium & Insectarium. 1 Canal St., 504-861-2537, audubonnatureinstitute.org

City Park

City Park has numerous venues that are perfect for hosting a picnic. For example, the Festival Grounds include a 50-acre green space; the Peristyle (a neo-classical open-air pavilion with colonnade) is a picturesque spot overlooking Bayou Metairie; the Reunion Shelter offers space for gatherings of up to 500 guests; and Shelter No. 1 is a covered open-air structure located near the Carousel Garden Amusement Park that is equipped with picnic tables, on-site restrooms and lights. A park permit is required for organized gatherings of more than 100 people.

1 Palm Drive, 504-482-4888, neworleanscitypark.org

FOOD + BOOZE

St. James Cheese Co.

Acorn

Acorn, a Dickie Brennan & Co. cafe located just past the Big Blue entrance to the Louisiana Children’s Museum within City Park, offers a healthy menu of bowls, salads, sandwiches, tacos, sides and dessert. Try the ancient grain bowl with arugula, tomatoes, quinoa, farro, cucumbers, onions, cauliflower, avocado, Creole pecans and oregano vinaigrette. The blackened shrimp tacos also are a great bet. 15 Henry Thomas Drive, 504-218-5413, acornnola.com

Avenue Cafe

Avenue Cafe, which is convenient to Coliseum Square Park, offers locally roasted coffees (from Orleans Coffee, Mojo Coffee Roasters and Hey! Coffee) plus sandwiches, salads, fresh-squeezed juices, smoothies, and sweet and savory pastries (from Maple Street Patisserie and Gracious Bakery). We love the chicken salad sandwich (made with curry, tomato, celery, chives and greens on a croissant). 1907 St. Charles Ave., 504-301-2097, avenuecafenola.com

Bittersweet Confections

Perfect for birthday picnics, Bittersweet Confections offers a bevy of cakes—all Instagram worthy—on its menu (plus custom cakes available for pre-order). Try the zodiac birthday cake (available in vanilla, red velvet, almond or chocolate) decorated with pretty blue icing and the birthday boy’s or girl’s zodiac sign. 725 Magazine St., 504-523-2626, bittersweetconfections.com

Cafe Du Monde

For a sweet dessert, be sure to pick up beignets (served in orders of three) from Cafe Du Monde. Just be sure to pack plenty of napkins. 800 Decatur St., 504-587-0833, shop.cafedumonde.com

A perfect place to grab picnic grub, St. James Cheese Co. has two locations (one Uptown and one in the CBD) so it’s convenient to plenty of top picnic spots. Try the smokey blue sandwich (rare roast beef, house smoked blue cheese, tomato, greens and Worcestershire mayo on Wild Flour multi-grain toast), the Manchego salad (shaved Manchego cheese, pears, sliced almonds and quince vinaigrette over arugula), an olive plate (a sampling of three types of olives), and a cheese and charcuterie plate (a selection of rotating artisanal cheeses and cured meats).

5004 Prytania St., 504-8994737, 641 Tchoupitoulas St., 504-304-1485, stjamescheese.square.site

Galaxie Tacos

Over on St. Claude Avenue, Galaxie Tacos not only has fab tacos, but also tempting frozen drinks (a margarita and a rotating special), plus tequila and mezcal drinks, and an Oaxacan daiquiri. 3060 St. Claude Ave., 504827-1443, galaxietacos.com

Clesi’s Restaurant & Catering

If you’d rather skip the hassle of a boil yourself, be sure to pick up one of Clesi’s seasonal boils (crab or shrimp, or a combo of both). The restaurant also offers a nice selection of po-boys (try the shrimp, hot sausage or fried oyster) with a side of jambalaya or crawfish mac & cheese. 4323 Bienville St., 504-909-0108, clesicatering.com

Cane & Table

Cane & Table in the French Quarter not only serves delicious frozen drinks (piña coladas and Palomas) and but also a large selection of specialty cocktails (such as the Hurricane & Table, What’s the Dill and Topical Negroni), reserve cocktails (Balla rum old fashioned and select mezcal margarita), mai tais (classic, Haitian and reserve) and non-alcoholic drinks (such as hibiscus limeade, and passionfruit and ginger lemonade).

1113 Decatur St., 504581-1112, caneandtablenola.com

Manolito

Located in the French Quarter, Manolito is known for its daiquiris. The blended cocktails are made to order and include an amaretto sour, a guava daiquiri and the popular jazz daiquiri. There are also double-blended, shaken, thrown, effervescent and built-in-glass cocktails on the menu. 508 Dumaine St., 504-603-2740, manolitonola.com

Domilise’s Po-Boy & Bar

Another great spot for po’ boys is Domilise’s. Try the surf & turf (a roast beef po-boy topped with shrimp). The restaurant and bar also has sausage and hamburgers on the menu. On Tuesdays and Thursdays, Tulane and Loyola students get a 20-percent sandwich discount with their student ID. 5240 Annunciation St., 504- 899-9126, domilisespoboys.com

Devil Moon Barbecue

A new restaurant in the CBD, Devil Moon Barbecue offers snacks like pimento cheese and smoked onion dip; plates (choice of meat, two sides, pickles, bread and barbecue sauces); sandwiches; and sides (such as potato salad and mac & cheese). The new grab-and-go section includes items like prime beef brisket, smoked ribs, smoked turkey breast, house-made sausages (just throw any of these meats on a grill to warm) and sides. 1188 Girod St., 504-788-0093, devilmoonbbq.com

Gris-Gris to Go Go

Gris-Gris chef and owner Eric Cook recently opened Gris-Gris to Go Go, offering popular dishes to go. Small and large orders of gumbo, chicken and dumplings, red beans and rice, and bread pudding are all on offer, plus sandwiches, salads and sauces. You can also pick up turkey necks and baked macaroni here from Cook’s other restaurant, Saint John. 1804 Magazine St., 504-3541520, grisgrisnola.com/gg-to-go-go

Larder Gourmet Market & Eatery

Larder Gourmet Market & Eatery is a picnicker’s dream thanks to the deli case (with items available by the half pint, pint or quart). Choose from items like Asian noodle salad, lemon poppyseed chicken salad, rosemary shrimp and potato salad. 3005 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Metairie, 504-7666157, lardereatery.com

The Cupcake Collection

Stock up on sweet treats from The Cupcake Collection. Try the classic yellow cupcake (vanilla butter confetti cake finished with rich chocolate buttercream icing and colorful confetti sprinkles) and the red velvet cupcake (buttermilk cake with a hint of chocolate topped with a cream cheese buttercream). 2917 Magazine St., 504-383-9322, thecupcakecollection.com

BRING THE GOODS

Picnic Basket/Tote

If Barbie were to have a picnic, she would almost certainly have an adorable picnic basket from West Elm. We love the Picnic Time Providence Woven Picnic Basket for 4, which comes with four ceramic plates; four wine glasses; four sets of stainless-steel forks, knives and spoons; a stainless steel corkscrew; and a cooler compartment. The City Travel Wine Tote is another great option for a wine-and-cheese moment, featuring two stemless wine glasses, a folding snack table, a bottle stopper, a corkscrew and space for multiple wine bottles. West Elm, 2929 Magazine St., 504-895-2469, westelm.com Another great option for picnic baskets—in this case, a tote—is the New Orleans Saints Malibu Picnic Cooler Tote. This tote allows you to show your pride for the New Orleans Saints, and it includes an insulated food section; beverage storage for two wine bottles; two acrylic wine glasses; two plates; two stainlesssteel knives, forks, and spoons; and a cheese knife, corkscrew, hardwood cheese board and two cotton napkins. Saints Team Shop, 1500 Sugar Bowl Drive, 504-587-8937, shop.neworleanssaints.com

If basketball is more your sport of choice, show your pride with the New Orleans Pelicans Crosshatch Picnic Caddy Tote Bag. It has an open top for easy access, reinforced handles and a zippered pocket for smaller essentials. Pelicans Team Store, pelicansteamstore.com

Picnic Blanket

A picnic just isn’t a picnic without the perfect blanket. One we like is the Grand Trunk Adventure Sheet, a waterproof blanket that’s perfect when the ground is a bit damp (or not). It also has an attached stuff sack for easy transport. Massey’s Professional Outfitters, 509 N. Carrollton Ave.,504648-0292, masseysoutfitters.com

Games

What’s a picnic without fun and games? Magic Box Toys has a great selection of kites, croquet sets, Wingman Disks (similar to Frisbees), and light-up soccer balls to take your game from day to night. Magic Box Toys, 5508 Magazine St., 504-899-0117, magicboxnola.com

Lighting

Be sure to pack a few outdoor lanterns for some serious ambiance if you plan for your picnic to last beyond dusk. We love the Tala Muse Rechargeable Lantern in borosilicate glass, aluminum and brass. It has a dimmer and comes in four Farrow and Ball colors. Sunday Shop, 2025 Magazine St., 504-342-2087, sundayshop.co

Picnic Tables

If you’re planning a larger gathering in a place without picnic tables, True Value Rental offers 6-foot wooden picnic tables for rent, a great option for family reunions. 3635 Williams Blvd., Kenner, 504-443-2825, justaskrentalnola.com

The City Travel Wine Tote at West Elm

Picnic Provisions & Whiskey

Picnic Provisions & Whiskey—a restaurant from James Beard Award-winning Commander’s Palace chef Tory McPhail, Commander’s Palace co-owner Ti Martin and Reginelli’s Pizza owner Darryl Reginelli—offers an array of picnic-ready food. Try the Famous Hot Fried Chicken Thighs prepared with a crawfish-boil-spiced batter and served with a side of Picnic Pulp and lemony miso mayo. For sides, try the sugarcane slaw, the Cajun potato salad and the sweetgrass pimento cheese. 741 State St., 504-266-2810, nolapicnic.com

Bourée Cajun

Smokehouse

Bourée is another spot known for its frozen drinks—specifically its fresh-fruit daiquiris. Flavors change with the seasons, but the gin and tonic daiquiri is always on the menu (as the cucumbers used in the drink are grown in Louisiana year-round).

1510 S. Carrollton Ave., 504-510-4040, bourreenola.com

Central Grocery & Deli

For a true New Orleans picnic, grab a classic muffuletta—made with meats sliced in-house, locally baked handmade bread and traditional Italian olive salad—from Central Grocery & Deli. While the French Quarter location is under renovation, you can still pick up sandwiches from several locations across the area. Check their website for the latest information and locations, centralgrocery.com

Pizza Domenica

With locations in Uptown, Mid-City and Lakeview, Pizza Domenica has a large menu available for take-out. Great picnic options include the garlic knots, smoked wings, meatballs, Italian chop salad or even a full-on pizza. For dessert, try the gelato. 4933 Magazine St., 504-3014978, 3200 Banks St., 504-459-2072, 117 W. Harrison Ave., 504-229-6538, pizzadomenica.com

Parkway Bakery & Tavern

Offering some of the best po’ boys in the city, Parkway Bakery & Tavern is a convenient spot to grab a sandwich before hitting City Park or Bayou St. John. Try the James Brown (slow-cooked barbecue beef, Louisiana fried shrimp, melted pepper Jack cheese and hot-sauce mayo) with a side of sweet potato fries or fried pickles. 538 Hagan Ave., 504-482-3047, parkwaypoorboys.com

Surrey’s Cafe & Juice Bar

This organic juice bar offers not only fresh-squeezed orange, grapefruit, carrot and apple juice, but also salads and sandwiches that are picnic-ready. Order the lunch combo for a half sandwich, a cup of soup and a side salad. 1418 Magazine St., 504-524-3828, surreysnola.com

Stein’s Market & Deli

You can’t go wrong with a sandwich from Stein’s Market & Deli. Order the reuben sandwich (hot corned beef, Swiss cheese and sauerkraut on rye bread with Russian dressing) with a side of pickles, chips and a soda (or one of the many craft beers that Dan Stein keeps stocked at his beloved deli and market). 2207 Magazine St., 504-527-0771, steinsdeli.com

Monday Restaurant + Bar

This newish restaurant and bar offers frozen drinks (frosé), plus tasty signature drinks (like the pineapple sage julep and the Bywater Breeze), wine and local draft beer. 4327 Bienville St., 504581-8900, mondaynola.com

Bacchanal Fine Wine & Spirits Stop by Bacchanal on Wednesdays from 4-6 p.m. for free wine tastings. Then choose a few bottles that you like for your next picnic. 600 Poland Ave., 504-948-9111, bacchanalwine.com

Parleaux Beer Lab

If beer is on the brain, and you’ll be picnicking near the Bywater, then stop by Parleaux

Beer Lab for some creative takes on suds. Try the Other Side of Summer NZ Pilsner, the Papillon West Coast “Cold” IPA or the Gonna Have a Good Day Saison. Even better? Grab a few of each. 634 Lesseps St., 504702-8433, parleauxbeerlab.com

The Backyard

This Lakeview restaurant has a great selection of frozen drinks, such as a frozen old-fashioned, the Bushwacker, a frosé and margaritas. 244 W. Harrison Ave., 504-3098767, thebackyardnola.com

The Blue Crab

The Blue Crab has a great selection of frozen drinks, like the Blue Crab Collins daiquiri, a frosé and a Bushwhacker daiquiri. There are also a bunch of specialty cocktails on the menu, plus mocktails (the pom punch and the cucumber lime refresher). 7900 Lakeshore Drive, 504-284-2898, thebluecrabnola.com

Cafe Navarre

Frozen drink options here include a watermelon frosé, a wild berry mojito, a skinny piña colada, Irish coffee, a Bellini, a Negroni and even a Froscrew. 800 Navarre Ave., 504-4838828, cafenavarre.com

CR Coffee Shop

This cozy Uptown coffee shop offers a great selection of to-go drinks of the non-alcoholic variety. Try the Swamp Monster (an iced green coffee latte with pandan—a tropical plant with notes of vanilla, almond and coconut—and autumn spices). Or go for the sweet vanilla cream cold brew. 3618 Magazine St., 504-354-9422, crcoffeenola.com

Erin Rose

For picnics near the French Quarter, be sure to swing by Erin Rose for the bar’s famous frozen Irish coffee. They also offer fantastic bloody Marys, screwdrivers and mimosas. 811 Conti St., 504-522-3573, erinrosebar.com

Nola Snow Snoballs

If you are more in the mood for a snoball (and honestly, who isn’t?), then swing by Nola Snow in Lakeview—open since 1955—for a huge selection of tasty snoballs (like the flan and cafe au lait with Vietnamese iced coffee condensed milk). 908 Harrison Ave., 504-373-6555, nolasnow.com

Pandora’s Snowballs

Offering some of the best snoballs in the city, Pandora’s has flavors like aqua berry, bubblegum, kiwi and nectar cream. Some of the sugar-free options include strawberry, pineapple and wedding cake. 901 N. Carrollton Ave., 504-295-7130, facebook.com/ pandorassnowballs

The Vintage

Offering bites (including delicious beignets, pastries, and cheese and charcuterie boards) and bubbles, The Vintage is a must-stop spot pre-picnic. Crafted cocktails include libations such as the Espresso Yourself, the Black Crowe and the Magazine Mule. 3121 Magazine St., 504-324-7144, thevintagenola.com

Professional Picnicking

These local companies specialize in creating the picnic of your dreams.

Bontemps Luxury Picnics

Whether hosting a picnic in your backyard or at a local park, Bontemps Luxury Picnics will provide the perfect setting with candles, glassware, cutlery, cloth napkins and charcuterie. 504-226-1150, bontempsluxurypicnics.business. site

Luxury Picnics NOLA

Serving the New Orleans metro area, Luxury Picnics NOLA offers intimate and whimsical picnics at your chosen location. The company offers picnic packages serving two to 20 guests at different price points. Each package includes a two-hour picnic with one bottle of wine, brut or sparkling cider; a signature theme; plates, napkins, wine glasses and utensils; and a table with runner, candles, flowers and centerpieces. Add-ons include items like additional time, a charcuterie and fruit board, mini sandwiches, wine, an umbrella, a backdrop, a console table and a fire pit. luxurypicnicsnola.com

Nola Picnics

With Nola Picnics, you simply choose your date and location, a picnic package and a vendor team. Just envision the surprise when they walk up to a gorgeous setup with plush pillows, beautiful dinnerware and flickering lights. nolapicnics.com

Nola Pop-Up Picnic

This Latina-owned picnic company supports other BIPOC, LGBTQA+ and local businesses. Just show up and leave the details to the pros. Expect a luxury experience with plenty of details to make this a picnic you won’t soon forget. Maybe even throw in that marriage proposal?

@nola_popup_picnic

Pretty Little Picnics

A company born out of the pandemic, Pretty Little Picnics offers customized picnics with colorful themes, floral bouquets, signage and gorgeous tablescapes. Just present your ideas, and PLP will bring them to life. 504-252-0321, plpnola.com

CITIES OF THE DEAD

A FINE LINE BETWEEN THE LIVING AND THOSE BEYOND THE GRAVES

by Beth D’Addono / photography by Cheryl Gerber

ew Orleans has been out of this world since it was founded as NouvelleOrléans by the French in 1718. Under colonial rule, life was difficult. The swampy, mosquito-plagued city was originally colonized with many French asylum patients and prisoners, sent on a one-way ticket to New Orleans. The upheaval continued with the first of thousands of enslaved Africans arriving in 1719. No wonder it wasn’t long before people were "dying" to get out of town. For many it was impossible to survive the weather, the pestilence of smallpox and yellow fever, lack of sanitation and brutal working conditions.

THE DEAD INTERRED

What to do with all those dead bodies? That was the conundrum. The first known public cemetery appears on city maps dated 1725, St. Peter Cemetery, situated in what is now a corner of the French Quarter. Officials feared burying disease victims so close to the city center, so the the city’s oldest active cemetery, St. Louis No. 1, was created in 1789 a measured distance away. St. Louis No. 2 opened in 1823, as more tombs were needed to bury some 41,000 people who died of yellow fever.

Over the centuries, the city grew. From pirates to privateers, pagans to voodoo queens, a litany of humanity arrived, stayed, and died, infamously or quietly, with much fanfare or hardly a ripple.

Since New Orleanians don’t do anything according to script, it’s no surprise that locals found spectacle and pageantry even in death. Unique to New Orleans, jazz funerals became popular in the Black community in the late 1800s, a ritualized way to send a loved one into the beyond, with a back beat.

Today, there are more than 40 cemeteries, five on the National Register of Historic Places, in Orleans Parish. There are cemeteries dedicated to Jewish residents, for Protestants, for the poor, for collectives and societies, and for the unclaimed and anonymous dead.

ABOVE GROUND TRADITION

The cities of the dead, from ramshackle to grand, are as much a part of the New Orleans landscape as live oaks and lacy iron balustrades. While the city’s below sea level status and high water table is a contributing factor to burying above ground, it’s not the only reason the dead aren’t dug in. Colonizers France and Spain brought the tradition of building above ground tombs for the lifeless elite.

Wander through most cemeteries today and a range of ornate tombs with crypts, funerary architecture and walls stacked with vaults are on view. Bodies were buried below ground in more modest graveyards, like the historic Holt Cemetery on City Park Avenue close to Delgado.

Taking a historically accurate and entertaining tour of Lake Lawn Metairie, St. Roch and/or St. Louis No. 3 cemeteries is the best way to support the nonprofit Save Our Cemeteries, the organization dedicated to preserving the Cities of the Dead. Local preservationist Mary Louise Christovich founded the group in 1974, harnessing like-minded citizens opposed to tearing down the wall vaults around St. Louis No. 1 for a chain link fence. That was the just the beginning; the group’s accomplishments include securing historic designation, preserving ironwork gates and restoring historic tombs throughout the city.

THE GANG’S ALL HERE

The best part of a cemetery tour for the uninitiated is the explanation of how many bodies might be in each vault.

“The system is quite efficient,” said tour guide Frank Perez, who is on the board of Save Our Cemeteries. “A vault that looks like it holds two caskets may have dozens of remains, or more.”

When a family member dies, cemetery workers unscrew the stone at the front of the vault, remove the casket bits and sweep

what’s left of the last occupant into a burlap bag. They place it in the caveau chamber in the back, a kind of receiving vault for the remains, such as they are. It’s an efficient, space-saving system that has worked for hundreds of years.

Usually, a body is left undisturbed for at least a year and a day, following Catholic tradition, although that’s not dictated by law. In that year's time, conditions in the crypt can hit 150 degrees, with 100 percent humidity - the exact opposite of what preserved the pharaohs in the Egyptian pyramids. “It’s essentially a slow cremation,” said Perez.

WHO'S WHERE AND WHAT YOU'LL SEE

Feeling the urge to commune with the dead? Here are highlights of the best Cities of the Dead to visit, although a few remain closed.

Remember, these are daylight visits only. As darkness falls, the residents, departed or ghostly, don’t like to be disturbed.

ST. LOUIS NO. 1

Situated across from Basin Street Station, the city’s oldest cemetery is on the edge of the Quarter in Treme. The Archdiocese of New Orleans closed both St. Louis No. 1 and No. 2 at the beginning of the pandemic. While No. 2 remains closed, No. 1 is reopened, with access beyond family members limited to Cemetery Tours NOLA. There’s an ongoing legal kerfuffle, as vetted guides seek to lead tours again in the most popular cemetery in the city.

Until then, Cemetery Tours NOLA leads tours daily out of Basin Street Station. The company, owned by hotelier and tour bus operator Michael Valentino, has erected shade and mist canopies inside the walls, helpful during the heat. Taking a tour is a great chance to visit the city’s welcome center, which just may be the only visitor’s center in America with a bar.

Just across the street, the cemetery, with its variety of burial vaults, graves and tombs, is a warren of narrow pathways. Notable graves include Homer Plessy of the Plessy vs. Ferguson case, voodoo queen Marie Laveau and Ernest “Dutch” Morial. One popular oddity is the bone-white pyramid built by Nicholas Cage for his future tomb. There are also massive society tombs, interring members of Portuguese, Spanish and French societies. In the back of the cemetery, there’s a section for Protestants, or as one tour guide called it, the smoking section, since according to Catholic doctrine, they are all "roasting in hell."

Then there’s the Italian society tomb, made completely of imported marble. It is famously featured in a scene from Easy Rider, where the story has Peter Fonda, Dennis Hopper, and Karen Black dropping LSD, with Peter Fonda climbing on top of the tomb. The Archdiocese Of New Orleans, which owns and runs the cemeteries and wasn’t consulted for permission to film, was not amused.

Perez, who has visited every cemetery in town, counts one tomb in St. Louis No. 1 as his favorite. It’s where Bernard de Marigny is buried, the craps-inventing playboy after whom the Marigny neighborhood is named. “My friend Lloyd Sensate, who was active in the Faubourg Marigny Improvement Association, got acquainted with Bob Marigny, a descendent.

Top: Frank Perez, Middle; left: St. Roch; Middle right: Holt Cemetery; Bottom, left: Holt Cemetery; Bottom, right: Metairie Cemetery, Anne Rice's grave

Top, left: St. Louis No. 1 Middle second: St. Louis No. 1 Nicolas Cage's pyramid; Middle third: St. Roch Chapel; Bottom, left: Metairie Cemetery Al Copeland's grave; Top, right: St Louis No. 1 Dutch Morial's marker; Bottom, right: St. Louis No. 1 Marie Laveau's tomb

He gave permission for Lloyd to be buried in Marigny’s tomb when he died in 2011. His partner Gene Cizek will also be there when he dies. As a tour guide, Bernard de Marigny sparks a lot of topics, from plantation culture to the current neighborhood and the gay community.”

ST. LOUIS NO. 2

Located at 300 N Claiborne Avenue, No. 2 remains closed to the public “due to vandalism and other issues.” Opened in 1823, the cemetery spans three city blocks and, unlike the first, is organized with clear rows and pathways. Noteworthy graves include those of Claude Treme’s, who along with his wife Julie Moro, a former enslaved person, owned the land that would become the historic Treme neighborhood. French architect Jacques Nicolas Bussiere de Pouilly is also here, the man credited with designing the aesthetic scheme of New Orleans cemeteries.

The legendary drummer Paul Barbarin and his wife Odelia rest here, along with Paul’s nephew and wife, musicians Danny and Blue Lu Barker. Ernie and Antoinette K-Doe are around the corner. Oscar James Dunn, the first Black lieutenant governor in American history, is here too.

ST. LOUIS NO. 3

Located at the end of Esplanade Avenue, close to Bayou St. John, No. 3 was established in 1854 when No. 2 was busting at the seams with yellow fever victims. Notable for being the former site of a leper colony, the cemetery is open to the public.

Here lies vestiges of the Irish architect James Gallier Sr., known for his Greek Revival buildings including Gallier Hall. Photographer E. J. Bellocq has a grave here, the artist famous for his unflinching portraitures of sex workers in Storyville. New Orleans chefs Leah Chase and Paul Prudhomme's resting places are located here. There are society tombs for groups including Little Sisters of the Poor and the Priest’s Tomb, where fathers without other plans were interred.

ST. ROCH

Named for the 12th century French martyr, St. Roch cemetery, opened on the feast day of St. Roch, August 16, 1876. The cemetery at 1725 St. Roch Ave. exists because of the yellow fever epidemic and a German priest named Rev. Peter Leonard Thevis.

Seeing the pestilence, he turned to God and invoked the intercession of St. Roch, who is said to have cared for victims of the plague, and survived the disease himself with the help of a dog who brought him food. If no one in his parish perished in the coming year from the fever, he swore to build a chapel to honor St. Roch and a cemetery for the parishioners.

Church history says no members of Holy Trinity died that year. Thevis kept his promise, so stands the cemetery that still buries the dead to this day.

Beyond the gothic house-like tombs guarded by a striking pair of angels is the real jewel in this eerie setting. There is a chapel in the back that is open for visits on the first Friday of every month, 11 a.m. to noon. Pass through an arched doorway into a small side room, lined with marble bricks, each one inscribed with the word “merci” or “thanks.”

Here, the walls are lined with ex-votos, offerings of thanks to the saint. There are creepy plastic replicas of hands, feet, livers and brains. There are leg braces, glass eyes, a pink plaster human heart. Handwritten notes, pictures of loved ones, rusted crutches hang from the wall. Anatomical-themed votives line a shelf, adorned with dusty rosaries. And while many of the tokens date back dozens of years, some, like a post-it note bearing the hash tag “stay so very #alive” shows that devotion is ongoing.

CYPRESS GROVE

Situated at the foot of Canal at 120 City Park Ave., this cemetery was founded in 1840 by the Firemen’s Charitable and Benevolent Association as a permanent memorial to the city’s volunteer firemen. Besides honoring first responders, Cypress Grove was also a popular burial spot for non-Catholics. There are at least four mayors here as well as the grave of English-born theater owner James Caldwell, who brought gas streetlights to the French Quarter.

Then there’s the Chinese tomb, dating to 1904, about when New Orleans’ Chinatown was taking shape off of Tulane Avenue. Large enough to walk inside, there was a small fireplace where visitors could burn prayer notes, paper money and other offerings for their dead kin. The idea was for the tomb to be a way station, a temporary stop until family could bring the remains back to China. It was last used in 1991.

CHARITY HOSPITAL CEMETERY & KATRINA MEMORIAL

Charity Hospital began using this land at 5050 Canal St. as a burial ground for unclaimed bodies, many who succumbed to yellow fever and influenza. This is also where parts of you might eventually end up if you donated your body to science.

It is here too that unclaimed and unidentified victims of Hurricane Katrina were laid to rest. The city dedicated a memorial to the victims in 2009.

HOLT CEMETERY

This former potter’s field at 527 City Park Ave. was established in 1879 as a place to bury the poor, mostly Black residents of the city, most below ground. Holt has a homespun vibe, with many graves outlined, if at all, with non-traditional items like PVC pipe and cinder blocks.

Due to the lack of clear markers, it’s hard to know who’s where. Buddy Bolden, the “founding father of jazz,” is buried here somewhere, alongside countless war veterans. Monuments to both are on the grounds.

LAKE LAWN METAIRIE

The Metairie Cemetery, in Orleans not Jefferson parish, is one of the city’s oldest and most historic burial grounds, full of grand sculptures, Greek temples, Islamic style tombs, and live oaks sprawled over 65 landscaped acres.

Originally a racetrack, the land was converted into a cemetery in 1872. Metairie holds the remains of more than 9,000 people, including nine governors of Louisiana, seven mayors of New Orleans, 49 kings of Carnival, and three Civil War generals. Singer Louis Prima is here, same for New Orleans Saints owner Tom Benson and Ruth Fertel of Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse. Popeyes’ founder Al Copeland is buried here, as is vampire-novelist Anne Rice.

LAFAYETTE NO. 1

Established in 1832, Lafayette No. 1 is between Washington, Sixth, Prytania, and Coliseum streets, with an entrance, caddy corner from Commander’s Palace. The oldest of the city-run cemeteries, it’s been closed “for repairs” for a good while now, according to the city.

Besides the many notables interred here, and both the Jefferson Fire Company and Chalmette Fire Company society tombs, Lafayette, may be best known as the inspiration for Anne Rice’s “Vampire Chronicles.” It’s dubious bragging rights include being featured in the films “Double Jeopardy" and “Dracula 2000,” and in a New Kids on the Block music video, which assuredly has somebody turning over in their grave.

FALL

F E S T I V ALS

THE WEATHER IS GETTING TOLERABLE AGAIN, AND THAT MEANS FALL IS HERE! WITH FALL COMES A VARIETY OF FESTIVALS BOTH IN THE CRESCENT CITY AND JUST A SHORT DRIVE AWAY. THERE’S SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE.

Gretna Heritage Festival

Oct. 6-8

GretnaFest.com

Admission: Single-day general admission (ages 13+), $30; 3-day weekend general admission (ages 13+) $60; 3-day child general admission (ages 5-12), $5; Friend of the Fest tickets (private restrooms and viewing areas), $200; river club suite tickets, $7,5008,500; children age 5 and under, free.

Location: Old Gretna riverfront

The Lowdown: As always, the Gretna Heritage Festival features an exciting lineup of national legends and local favorites. This year’s musical acts include Kool & the Gang, the Temptations, Blues Traveler, Lynyrd Skynyrd, Trombone Shorty & Orleans Avenue, Los Lobos, Irma Thomas & the Professionals and Cowboy Mouth. There will be a great variety of food items from more than 50 vendors, as well as a craft beer area and a “Kids' Corner.” The Club Backstage, located in the Gretna Cultural Center for the Arts, will feature football watch parties and live music. This year’s festival will be completely cashless with payments made through a RFID wristband.

Oktoberfest

Oct. 13-14, 20-21, 27-28

OktoberfestNOLA.com

Admission: $10 at the gate (cash only); children 11 and under, free.

Location: Deutsches Haus

The Lowdown: If you can’t afford to travel to Munich for Oktoberfest, New Orleans’ very own Oktoberfest is a blast. There are daily activities like chicken dancing and masskrugstemmen (a beer stein holding contest for men and women). There will also be music from local and out of state bands. Canine aficionados will delight at the schnauzer parade. No description of Oktoberfest would be complete without discussing the delicious German delicacies that will be on hand. The main food tent will feature a schnitzel plate, a three-sausage plate and a roast pork loin plate (all featuring sides of red cabbage, sauerkraut, bread and butter). There will be German street food at the fest food booth with options like doner kebab, curry wurst (sliced bratwurst with a curry-ketchup sauce), sauerkraut balls, frikadellen (hamburger steak) and a vegetarian plate. Mouth-watering desserts like apple strudel, cake, ice cream, and decorated cookies will also be available. Children are welcome but must be accompanied by an adult and not left unattended.

Treme Fall Fest

Oct. 19 (patron party), Oct. 21 (festival)

TremeFest.org

Admission: Free for the festival; $125 early-bird ticket for patron party and $150 for a standard patron party ticket

Location: 1210 Governor Nicholls

The Lowdown: This year’s Treme Fall Fest will feature live music (lineup still TBD at press time), food and fun events for kids and adults. Every year, the patron party raises money for the extensive repairs required for Treme’s historic St. Augustine Catholic Church, home of the oldest African American Catholic parish in the country.

Abita Fall Fest

Oct. 20-21

AbitaFallFest.com

Admission: Friday and Saturday general admission, $40; Friday general admission, $20; Saturday general admission, $20; VIP (Saturday only), $90; kids ages 3-10, $15. Location: Abita Springs Trailhead

The Lowdown: One of the Greater New Orleans area’s newest festivals returns to Abita Springs with music, food, and fun. Musical acts include Imagination Movers, Gal Holiday, Lost Bayou Ramblers, Marc Broussard and Tom Leggett. There will also be plenty of fun activities for kids included in the price of admission, like face painting, a petting zoo, carnival games, tile panting and more. Don’t worry about missing the LSU game; there will be a Tiger Tailgate area with a gaming trailer, television sets and plenty of delicious food nearby.

NOLA Funk Fest

Oct. 20-22

NOLAFunkFest.com

Admission: single-day advance general admission, $40; threeday advance general admission, $92.50; single-day advance VIP access, $110; three-day advance VIP access $260; Saturday symposium: Earl King, $30; Sunday symposium: Dave Bartholomew, $30; symposium combo, $50; single-day VIP + single-day symposium, $135; three-day VIP + two-day symposium, $315. Location: New Orleans Jazz Museum

The Lowdown: This new festival will serve as the coming out party for the Louisiana Music and Heritage Experience, an ambitious museum dedicated to the preservation of Louisiana’s rich musical history. Funk it up with a variety of local luminaries like Ivan Neville, Big Sam’s Funky Nation, Russell Batiste, the Dirty Dozen Brass Band, Irma Thomas and the Bucktown Allstars. The festival will also feature the opening of the exhibit “I Found My Thrill: The Music and Artistry of Fats Domino and Dave Bartholomew,” as well as two symposiums.

Brews and Boos

Oct. 27-28

NewOrleansCityPark.org

Admission: general admission, $35; VIP admission, $60. Location: Carousel Gardens

The Lowdown: City Park’s other Halloween fundraiser is for guys and ghouls over 21. Attendees are encouraged to dress up in their Halloween finest and enjoy access to the amusement park, as well as copious amounts of beer.

NOLA Reggae Fest

Oct. 27-29

allevents.in/org/theinternational-reggaegroup/17640932

Admission: One-day, $25; Twoday, $40; Three-day, $45. Location: Congo Square

The Lowdown: Come to Congo Square for a celebration of Jamaican culture and reggae music. Performers will include Ha Sizzle, Warrior King, The Meditations and Sister Nancy. There will also be food, art and DJs.

Ghosts in the Oaks

Oct. 19-22

NewOrleansCityPark.org

Admission: early admission, $30; general admission, $25; Friends of City Park members, $22; children under 36 inches tall, free.

Location: City Park’s Carousel Gardens

The Lowdown: Children and the young at heart are both encouraged to dress up in their best costumes and enjoy unlimited rides, arts and crafts, trick-ortreating and much more at City Park’s all-ages Halloween fundraiser. Proceeds will benefit the preservation and beautification of City Park.

Top Taco Oct. 26

TopTacoNOLA.com

Admission: general admission, $85; 1st tasting, $105; VIP, $135.

Location: Lafreniere Park

The Lowdown: More than 40 restaurants will compete for awards at Top Taco NOLA 2023. Awards include top creative taco, top traditional taco, top vegetarian taco, top margarita and top cocktail. There will be three stages of music and a tent devoted to mezcal tastings. Food and drink are included in the price of admission. A VIP ticket includes gourmet desserts and private restrooms and bars. Sell-outs are common, so do not wait until the last minute to buy tickets. The event is for people age 21 and older and no attendee will be allowed entrance without an ID.

Bayou Classic

Nov. 24-25

MyBayouClassic.com

Admission: Ticket pricing for events in the Caesars Superdome vary based on seating location. Other events are free.

Location: Caesars Superdome and Downtown New Orleans

The Lowdown: The Bayou Classic is more than just a football game between archrivals Southern and Grambling. There is also a parade on Thanksgiving Day that starts at the Superdome and makes its way down Poydras and Canal. The Louisiana Chamber of Commerce Foundation will sponsor a Black business showcase highlighting various nonprofit, corporate, and local businesses. Visitors can network with business representatives and purchase items from small Black-owned businesses. There will also be a “Greek Show & Battle of the Bands” inside the Superdome. A fan festival will take place on the morning of the game in Champions Square.

Crescent City Blues & BBQ Festival

Oct. 13-15

JazzAndHeritage.org/events/crescentcity-blues-bbq-festival/

Admission: Free

Location: Lafayette Square

The Lowdown: Lafayette Square hosts the best in blues and barbecue. This year’s music lineup features Tab Benoit, the Honey Island Swamp Band, Samantha Fish, Cedric Burnside and more. Food options will feature many different regional variations of barbecue, but with an emphasis on Louisiana barbecue as the state’s barbecue scene has grown in recent years. There will also be an art market with handcrafted artworks and artisan jewelry.

New Orleans Film Festival

Nov. 2-12

NewOrleansFilmSociety.org

Admission: Pricing details were not available as of press time. However, the festival always gives discounts to New Orleans Film Society members. Moviegoers can purchase single film tickets as well as an all-access pass.

Location: Various theaters

The Lowdown: Our press time is too early to know anything about this year’s festival lineup, but cinephiles should be ready for some exciting films. Past lineups have featured Best Picture winners like “12 Years a Slave” and “Moonlight,” as well as other high-profile films like “Knives Out,” “Women Talking,” “Belfast,” and “The Silver Linings Playbook.” But it’s not just about the Oscar winners and the star-studded efforts. Every year, the festival places a special emphasis on the works of Louisiana filmmakers in both short and narrative form.

CHERYL GERBER PHOTOS

NOLA Christmas Fest

Dec. 21-30

NOLAChristmasFest.com

Admission: TBD

Location: Ernest N. Morial

Convention Center

The Lowdown: Celebrating its 10th anniversary, NOLA Christmas Fest returns to bring holiday cheer to the Big Easy. Once again, guests can buy tickets for either a morning entry or an afternoon entry on each day except Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, which will have a single-entry period. The signature ice rink will be newly redesigned this year. There also will be carnival rides, a carousel, visits from Santa Claus, a gingerbread village, a bocce court, and much more. Check the website as the date gets closer for announcements on special activities to honor the festival’s birthday.

Celebration in the Oaks

Nov. 23-30

CelebrationInTheOaks.com

Admission: Driving tour is $25 for cars/SUVs on value night, $40 for cars/ SUVs on standard nights (limit 8 guests per vehicle). $150 for limos (limit 15 guests per vehicle). Sprinter vans are $225 (limit 20 guests per vehicle). Bikes are $5 per guest. The walking tour is $35 per person for a standalone ticket and $25 per person for a combo ticket with the driving tour.

Location: City Park

The Lowdown: City Park’s winter wonderland returns with a walking tour and a driving tour. The walking tour includes unlimited rides, marshmallow roasting, a cup of hot chocolate, photo opportunities, a train ride, a snow area, and beautiful lights in Carousel Gardens and the Botanical Garden. The driving tour takes 30-45 minutes and treats visitors to a display of more than a million twinkling lights.

Sober Fest

Nov. 18

BridgeHouse.org

Admission: $10 in advance; $15 at the gate; children under 12, free (must be accompanied by a paid adult).

Location: The Sugar Mill

The Lowdown: Bridge House/Grace House debuts a new alcohol-free festival this year featuring a variety of local foods, live music and non-alcoholic beverages with all proceeds benefiting Bridge House/Grace House. A special in memoriam area will be dedicated to those who have lost their battle with addiction or passed away while in recovery. The festival will accept names for this memorial area through Oct. 27. A brief memorial ceremony will also be held during the festival.

Water Lantern Festival

Nov. 12

WaterLanternFestival.com

Admission: $35.99 until Nov. 4; $45.99 until Nov. 11; $55.99 on day of event.

Location: Louis Armstrong Park

The Lowdown: Enjoy the beauty of floating water lanterns at the Water Lantern Festival. A wristband gives attendees access to food trucks, a floating lantern kit, a LED candle, a commemorative drawstring bag, a marker and playing cards. Festival fees also cover the cost of lantern retrieval and water cleanup.

Oak Street Po Boy Festival Presented by Tony Chachere’s Nov. 19

PoBoyFest.com

Admission: The festival is free to attend, but a wristband is required to purchase a po-boy. Early-bird pricing is $10 for a general wristband, $25 for a fast pass, and $125 for VIP. Day-of pricing is $15 for a general wristband, $35 for a fast pass, and $150 for VIP.

Location: 8100-8700 blocks of Oak Street

The Lowdown: Once again Po Boy Fest will host nearly 40 food and beverage vendors, as well as live music on multiple stages and a po-boy competition juried by celebrity judges. There will be an arts market, kids’ zone and VIP area. Don’t worry, Who Dats, this year’s fest falls on the Saints’ bye weekend, so you won’t miss a Saints game. There will also be a special focus on the history of the humble po-boy. Proceeds from the event will benefit Son of a Saint.

FARTHER AFIELD FESTIVALS

Festivals Acadienes Et Creoles

Oct. 13-15

FestivalsAcadiens.com

Admission: Free

Location: Girard Park, Lafayette, LA

The Lowdown: Lafayette’s celebration of French culture returns with a stacked music lineup of local musicians and a food festival featuring more than a dozen vendors. Attendees who want to sweat off some of the calories they eat at the festival can participate in the festival’s run/paddle duathlon. There will also be local crafts available for purchase.

Rougarou Fest

Oct. 20-22

RougarouFest.org

Admission: Free

Location: Houma, LA (near civic center and library)

The Lowdown: This free, familyfriendly festival celebrates the rich folklore of Southeastern Louisiana. Like any good festival, there will be food, music and carnival rides. One of the highlights of the Rougarou Fest is the Atchafalaya Narrative Stage, which features guest speakers and panels discussing all sorts of topics like hurricane stories, costume making, Louisiana French, First Nation crafts and traditional knowledge of medicinal plants. Costume aficionados will want to check out the costume contest. “USA Today” ranked Rougarou Fest one of its top 10 costume parties in the United States in 2014. There’s also a parade and a nutria pardoning! Proceeds go the South Louisiana Wetlands Discovery Center.

Festival of the Bonfires

Dec. 9-11

FestivalOfTheBonfires.org

Admission: $5 daily entry.

Location: Lutcher Recreational Park

The Lowdown: A short drive from the Crescent City will take you to Lutcher in St. James Parish and one of Louisiana’s most unique holiday celebrations. The Festival of the Bonfires features a Friday night bonfire on the levee and a Saturday night bonfire on the festival grounds with a fireworks show. Musical acts this year include Supercharger, The Chee-Weez and The Chase Tyler Band. There will also be crafts, food, carnival rides and Santa’s Very Merry Forest for all ages to enjoy.

A special thank you to SOSUSU, The Cannery, Toulouse Gourmet, and H2O Salon & Spa.

Photography by Theresa Cassagne / Styled by Julia Craig

Adrinda Kelly: Prabal Gurung silver sequin dress. Dr. Mia Burney: Rachel Gilbert Bambi dress and Rupert Sanderson silver pump. Sandra Herman: Costarellos Virna gown and Cult Gaia Nyala choker. Sonam Sadhwani: Costarellos Marceau gown. Dr. Claire Melancon: Greta Constantine Sloane Gallant in violet and Rupert Sanderson silver pump. Rena Jolly: Roland Mouret asymmetric diamante maxi gown.

Jess Donelon: Staud Kiera dress and Greta Constantine Marina coat.

DDS, FICOI

Dr. Mia Burney’s passion lies in elevating the health and self-esteem of her patients. With unwavering compassion and a commitment to continuous learning, Dr. Mia offers all general dentistry services at Smile Snob with expertise in Invisalign, veneers, implants, and implant dentures. The patient-focused culture she created at Smile Snob sets it apart as an hospitable haven for patients, where they feel valued and cared for. Driven to make a profound impact, Smile Snob has partnered with Families Helping Families of Greater New Orleans. The practice’s donations to the organization provide support and resources to parents of individuals with special needs. Through exceptional dental skills and giving back, Dr. Mia is proud to transform lives and foster an inclusive community.

Clothing from SOSUSU Boutique: Leo Lin: Cameron jumpsuit

Mia Burney,

Cosmetic Dentist & Owner of Smile Snob

Dr. Claire Melancon

&

This month, Dr. Claire Melancon celebrates the two-year anniversary of Audubon Facial Plastic Surgery. One of few local female facial plastic surgeons, Claire takes a uniquely natural, feminine, and artful approach to aesthetic surgical and nonsurgical procedures of the face. As in surgery, her appreciation for artistry and finesse is evidenced by her stylish, boutique Magazine Street practice. Personally, Claire adores her role as mother to toddler twins William & Adeline. She also enjoys giving back to the community through involvement in JLNO, YAYA Arts Center, and sponsorships to local charities. An avid advocate for women, Claire is a member of the national FACE to FACE committee, which funds international surgical missions and pro bono surgeries to domestic abuse victims and veterans.

Clothing from SOSUSU Boutique: Leo Lin: Maxima puff sleeve

Facial Plastic Surgeon Owner

Founder, Audubon Facial Plastic Surgery

Sandra Thompson Herman

President & CEO, New Orleans Entertainment Coalition

Widely acknowledged as one of the most accomplished women in Louisiana governance, Sandra Thompson Herman has spent the last four decades blazing countless trails that paved the way for dreamers to become doers. She is most proud of her work in support of culture, recreation, and tourism, as well as in women’s issues. Turning 77 this month and newly single, Sandra’s energetic outlook welcomes new challenges and projects. She and her team at the New Orleans Entertainment Coalition bring joy and unity to the city while benefiting local artists and musicians in support of events such as the Spirit of Louisiana Second Line and Illuminations New Orleans.

Clothing from SOSUSU Boutique: Staud Ramble Jumpsuit

Adrinda “Drin” Kelly

“Some of the best parts of who I am are because of New Orleans Black educators,” says Drin Kelly. Starting with her first teacher, Oretha Castle Haley, Drin was held to high expectations by Black educators who lovingly taught her to be smart and committed to community—so why, historically, has there been a lack of investment in them? As Executive Director of BE NOLA, Drin, along with her co-leader, Stevona Elem-Rogers, developed a solid pedagogy for supporting New Orleans Black educators. A graduate of Harvard and NYU, Drin has worked in education for 20 years. She is a member of the McDonogh #35 Alumni Association and the Education Leaders of Color Network and is an alumnus of the Pahara NextGen Fellowship and Loyola Institute of Politics.

Clothing from SOSUSU Boutique: Philosophy: Printed Tulle top and black print skirt

Executive Director, Black Education for New Orleans (BE NOLA)

An esthetician and registered nurse, Sonam Sadhwani utilizes her knowledge, skills, and passion for natural, holistic skincare and technology-driven facials at Glasskin. A stunning, design-led space, Glasskin addresses clients’ overall skin health with an emphasis on improving self-confidence and self-love. Sonam and her team employ holistic methods of facial massage, skincare technologies, and Gua Sha to improve skin health. Her search for effective, non-invasive, and natural approaches led Sonam to advanced, massage-based facial treatments and numerous skincare certifications.

In the community, Sonam is deeply committed to safeguarding children. A devoted mother to twin daughters, Sonam volunteers with the MVP Task Force, a specialized group committed to supporting and educating law enforcement agencies on handling human trafficking and child exploitation cases.

Clothing from SOSUSU Boutique: Christy Lynn: the Alice jacket and Ashley skirt

Sonam Sadhwani

Owner & Creative Director of Glasskin

Jess Donelon

Patient Experience Manager, Stalder Plastic Surgery

After spending the past five years helping breast cancer patients navigate their diagnosis and treatment, Jess Donelon suddenly found herself in their shoes. Diagnosed with breast cancer herself, Jess underwent bilateral mastectomies with DIEP free flap breast reconstruction using her own tissue with Dr. Mark Stalder, all while serving as the manager at Stalder Plastic Surgery. This personal experience with the reconstructive process has led to a deeper connection with patients.

“I feel honored to share my experience with them and to help ease what is typically an overwhelming and frightening time in their lives,” she says. “My own diagnosis and experience with breast cancer has solidified my purpose in both educating and compassionately supporting our patients.”

Clothing from SOSUSU Boutique: Beyond by Vera: Emilia dress

Rena Jolly

Director of Operations, Louisiana Pain Specialists

Rena Jolly’s journey exemplifies how a passion for healing and a foundation in business can harmoniously transform the healthcare landscape. As a critical care nurse, Rena quickly recognized the potential for efficiency and excellence in healthcare operations, and she skillfully implemented strategies that elevated patient care while streamlining healthcare processes. Rena prioritizes access and affordability to all patients in pain and was able to break barriers preventing access to the most underserved and vulnerable patients, thus creating the largest interventional pain practice in Louisiana. Rena’s philanthropic ventures focus on organizations empowering women. She recently served as the Co-chair for Dress for Success New Orleans’ 2023 Luncheon.

Clothing from SOSUSU Boutique: Cult Gaia: Carmita top and Valencia pant Destree: Elizabeth single chain sun choker

BY CHERÉ COEN TRAVEL

In the Spirit

Spooky season travel haunts

It’s that time of year when the shadows grow long and the veil between living and dead stretches thin. Here in the deep South, we don’t scare easily — we have roaches that fly! — and no matter how close those who have passed move into our sphere in autumn, the weather’s finally bearable so what do we care about a few apparitions.

Okay, so maybe a few can be disarming. But if love the ghouls and ghost stories, here are a few southern destinations to get your scare on while enjoying the balmy weather and autumnal foliage.

MOUNTAIN SPIRITS

It’s always fun to slip 250 feet underground to enjoy the majestic Ruby Falls on Lookout Mountain, but this month the attraction offers lantern

tours where guides relate ghost stories. Other haunts in “Nooga” include the former train depot now known as the Chattanooga Choo Choo and the Hunter Museum of American Art, which may house five on the “Other Side.” If you dare, stay in haunted Room 311 at the 151-year-old Read House hotel, where in 1927 Annalisa Netherly was nearly beheaded in the bathtub after her husband allegedly caught her with another man. Visitors have reported being touched in the room (not by the living) and witnessing unexplained noises and shadow figures.

GO BOWLING

Horror filmmaker John Carpenter didn’t shoot “Halloween” or “Christine” in his home town of Bowling Green, but he formed ideas for his films from the southwestern Kentucky town. Visitors can join the

“Reel Sites, Real Scary Driving Tour” and view 17 spots that gave Carpenter inspiration, including the log cabin where Carpenter lived as a boy on the Western Kentucky University campus. While you’re in Bowling Green, stop by the “scream park” Skeleton’s Lair, where actor Tyler Mane, who played Michael Myers in “Halloween,” visits Oct. 21-22.

HISTORIC HAINTS

The old Virginia town of Abingdon dates to the American Revolution with its quaint historic district on the National Register of Historic Places. Naturally, there are numerous haunted sites in town, including the courthouse, a home once used as a Civil War hospital and the identical double-winged Greenway-Trigg house built by architects who married sisters who couldn’t stand each other. One of the most often reported ghosts

in Abingdon is Union soldier James Wyatt’s steed, known as the “ghost horse of Abingdon.” Yes, a haunted horse! Stay at the 1832 Martha Washington Inn & Spa and enjoy a meal at the 1779 Tavern, where a “professional woman” is known to still frequent. On a recent visit we were told not to call the apparition a “tart” or she’d mess with us.

CLOSE TO HOME

English-born William Loyd was thought to have worked both sides during the Civil War in Louisiana and was hanged in front of his circa1820 plantation near Cheneyville. Today, Loyd Hall Plantation claims several ghosts who refuse to check out, including Loyd, who some say favors the front porch. Or maybe it’s the Union soldier killed on the property who walks the bed and breakfast’s guest rooms, or the jilted relative Inez Loyd, who jumped to her death from the third-story attic.

BLUFFING ANGELS

The Natchez City Cemetery puts on a show every November that’s so popular it sells out quickly. If tickets are still available for “Angels on the Bluff,” snatch them up and enjoy costumed reenactors portraying Natchez personalities buried within the cemetery. This ancient and oversized cemetery along the Mississippi River is lighted with luminaries to enhance the experience. For more information and tickets, visit TheNatchexCemetery.com.

LOYD HALL PLANTATION

Chief Daniel H. Wallis

Louisiana Office of State Fire Marshal

October is Fire Prevention Month (Oct. 8-14 is Fire Prevention Week), a century-old tradition established by the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) in 1922. So, we asked the Louisiana Office of State Fire Marshal (SFM), helmed by Louisiana State Fire Marshal Daniel H. Wallis, for fire safety awareness tips to educate and protect locals.

The theme of this year’s Fire Prevention Month is “Pay attention to Fire Safety, Cooking Safety Starts with You.” According to the NFPA, unattended cooking is the #1 cause of home fires. At the top of the State Fire Marshal’s list of fire safety tips when cooking, is never leave the kitchen when cooking is underway.

“There’s a tried-and-true motto

when it comes to cooking safety and that is ‘Stand by Your Pan,’” said Ashley Rodrigue, Public Affairs Director for the SFM.

The rule applies to all appliances – stove, oven, microwave as well as outdoor grill. The SFM recommends keeping the cooking area free of flammable items, including rags, boxes, bags and plastics and making sure children stay at least three feet clear of the cooking area to prevent burns. They also emphasize that working smoke alarms are critical to safety when cooking.

In New Orleans, the New Orleans Fire Department will install smoke alarms free of charge to the community and change smoke alarm batteries for the physically challenged and elderly. Nine-volt smoke detector batteries should be changed every six months. Newer smoke alarm

models with a 10-year battery life are also available.

On a state level, Operation SaveA-Life is a program that partners the State Fire Marshal’s Office with local fire departments across Louisiana to install, for free, 10-year sealed smoke alarms in homes of families that need them most.

Knowing what to do if a fire does occur when cooking is equally important. The SFM recommends the following: in case of an oven fire, leave the oven closed and turn it off. In case of a small stove fire, smother it with a lid and turn the stove off. If a fire is too large, use a fire extinguisher if you have one (a Class B fire extinguisher is most ideal for kitchen fires). And if not, get out and call 911. Finally, the SFM stresses “Remember, oil and water don’t mix.” If you have a grease fire,

1

Remember

acronym

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5

do not try to put it out with water (use a lid to suffocate it as stated above). And do not place frozen foods into hot oil for frying – always let them defrost first.

“The most common mistake people make is thinking a fire incident won’t happen to them,” said Rodrigue, who suggests the below websites for more information on cooking safety.

For additional information on general fire safety guidelines, including getting everyone including pets out of the house swiftly and safely, visit: Sfm.dps.louisiana.gov.

ABOUT THE EXPERT

Chief Daniel H. Wallis has been part of the fire service for 40 years. He began his career as a Junior Firefighter in the 1970s and worked his way through the ranks to being named State Fire Marshal in 2022.

the

PASS: Pull, Aim, Squeeze, Sweep

Pull the pin to break the tamper seal.

Aim low, pointing the extinguisher nozzle (or its horn or hose) at the base of the fire.

Squeeze the handle to release the extinguishing agent.

Sweep from side to side at the base of the fire until it appears to be out.

BY SCOTT GOLD TABLE TALK

Give the Devil His Due

Devil Moon BBQ in the CBD

In the realm of regional American barbecue styles, almost every southern state seems well represented for their local specialties. From Texas brisket to Kentucky’s mutton, vinegary pulled pork in North Carolina, to Alabama’s chicken with white sauce, it seems as though every southern locale has its unique spin on the business of smoked, meaty delights. Well, everywhere except for Louisiana, which surprisingly appears to have evaded all attempts at being lumped in with any particular barbecue identity.

For Shannon Bingham, chef and pitmaster of the recently opened Devil Moon BBQ in the CBD, the lack of any defined Louisiana barbecue style doesn’t indicate the state’s lack of devotion to the delicate art of smoking. Quite the opposite, in fact.

“For me, growing up in Louisiana, having a family that’s been in south Louisiana that goes several generations back, you think about the things that make our food so special, that makes it taste so deep and layered, and so much of that is smoke,” Bingham said. “We have all these crucial elements to our cuisine: tasso, andouille, boudin, all these things that come out of the smoker. We haven’t ever and probably will never call that stuff ‘barbecue,’ but inherently what we’re doing isn’t different traditionally than stuff that happened in Texas or North Carolina or Tennessee. We’ve just never branded it that way.”

What you’ll find at Devil Moon, other than a bright, contemporary dining room that shares its space with Brewery Saint X, is a style of barbecue that incorporates both traditional American BBQ techniques as well as culinary methods and ingredients heralded by south Louisianians for generations. It is the best of both worlds. Pulled pork, ribs and burnt ends nestle comfortably next to chaurice and boudin, dirty rice and meaty white beans. It’s the kind of natural synthesis that makes perfect sense to any lover of both Cajun cuisine and classic barbecue flavors alike.

It’s clear that Bingham and his crew take great pride and care in bringing all these flavors to the table. Take,

for instance, the cracklins, a simple treat usually enjoyed in greasy paper bags purchased at gas stations in and around southwest Louisiana. “Cracklins to me are a ‘if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it’ kind of food. ” Bingham said. “We follow real standard cracklin’ cooking procedure, with one exception: the first thing we do is that we smoke the bellies just enough to get that perfume on them. But from there it’s the straight Cajun gratton-style.” And that chaurice? “It’s probably the most important thing we do with our ‘south Louisiana BBQ angle’ is to really nail the sausages,” he said. His version does just that, using 100% pork shoulder, tons of fresh, local vegetables and a labor-intensive two-step smoking process. The effort does not go unnoticed when you snap into that hot casing and experience pure Louisiana carnivorous bliss.

While most of the menu at Devil Moon relies on traditional ingredients and techniques, that doesn’t mean it’s lacking a few surprises. Instead of relying on triedand-true smoked chicken, Bingham instead opts for perfectly smoky, buttery turkey breasts for outstanding BBQ sandwiches, as well as sauced up on a platter. You’ll also find smoked pastrami, the preparation of which takes four days and results in a jaw-droppingly tasty barbecue meat that would be just as at home on the Lower East Side of Manhattan as it is in downtown New Orleans.

More than anything – perhaps more than even getting to run a barbecue restaurant in an air-conditioned space – Bingham appreciates the creative “fluidity” that running a BBQ counter in downtown New Orleans offers. ““We’re getting a lot of feedback daily from our regulars, and it allows us to try new things, and just be a real fluid restaurant in a way that fine dining or seasonal restaurants are, and that’s generally not a thing you see in counter-service barbecue restaurants. For us, it’s great. We’re never in a rut in the kitchen.”

ABOUT THE CHEF

A New Orleans native who grew up in the Bywater, Shannon Bingham got his first culinary job at The Joint when he was in high school. While studying journalism at Loyola, Bingham befriended Chef Sue Zemanick and convinced her to let him spend his weekends staging in the kitchen at Gautreau’s. But the siren song of the barbecue pit eventually pulled him back to pulled pork, and after stints working for Zemanick and Donald Link, the young chef found himself at Blue Oak, where he spent five years refining his techniques and BBQ education. In time, this led to a small pop-up in the St. Roch Market, which sadly didn’t survive COVID, but it did lead to his being tapped as pitmaster for Devil Moon, which opened in the spring of 2023. So far, it’s been a highly positive experience for the young chef. “We’ve felt really welcome so far in the neighborhood,” he said. “Now we’re starting to have people beyond this little CBD/Warehouse bubble come visit us, and it’s really nice to see. We feel like every week we see new faces, and people are leaving happy, and that makes me happy.”

JEFFERY JOHNSTON PHOTOS

BY ELIZABETH PEARCE CHEERS

Heart Song

A cocktail that sings like New Orleans

When Ellie Larios, bar supervisor at the Kimpton Hotel Fontenot’s Peacock Bar began bartending 14 years ago, her trainer told her “it would make my brain tingle.” Early shifts at a San Diego nightclub were full of vodka-sodas, served with YouTube flair techniques. In 2019, ready for a change and challenge, she moved here. “Coming to New Orleans would take me out of a swimming pool and put me in the ocean. Bartenders here are the creme de la creme.” She was also drawn to the city’s culture, because “There is a soul here. You can feel it as you walk around.” Ellie attended music school and sees similarities in bartending’s ability to transcend language. Music and cocktails are both built on layers. “You add here, there and eventually get something that speaks to everyone regardless of language.” She muses, “My friend was right. It does make my brain tingle.”

1

CAN YOU FEEL MY HEART

2 ounces Aviation Gin (or another dry gin)

0.25 ounce Giffard orgeat syrup

0.5 ounce Real Puree raspberry syrup (or make your own**)

0.5 ounce grapefruit juice

0.5 ounce lime juice

Shake all ingredients, strain into a coupe, a Nick and Nora or whatever you think looks cool.

**Raspberry puree

200 ml water

200 grams sugar

50 grams raspberries

Cook all ingredients until the berries break down. Stir and strain. It will keep 7-10 days in the fridge.

Don’t substitute almond syrup for orgeat. It will not give the drink the same smooth mouthfeel and instead be stickysweet. You may substitute locally made El Guapo Creole Orgeat, which is made with pecans instead of almonds. It gives the drink a different, yet still delicious, flavor.

2

Orgeat is a great sweetening agent for mocktails, because it adds flavor without alcohol. It’s also great in regular and Irish coffee.

3

You can batch this drink, serve it in a punch bowl and ladle over ice.

BY JYL BENSON

Like Butter

A fall comfort feast

With the first tease of cooler weather (perhaps a brisk 80 degrees?) thrifty and abundant butternut squash is absolved from its summer banishment and returned to its place at the table. Although botanically a fruit (specifically, a berry), we use butternut squash is used culinarily as a vegetable. This winter variety of squash, denotable by its hard exterior shell and large hard-shelled seeds, originated in Argentina but was being grown in North America by the time European explorers showed up in the 16th century. When ripe, butternut squash turns increasingly deep orange, and becomes sweeter and richer. Historically a cornerstone of the Native American diet, indigenous people thought squash so nutritious that they buried dead with it to sustain them on their final journey.

Chef Tom Branighan says this recipe will feed eight people. These must be eight very hungry people! Either serve this for a large gathering, like a trick or treat party with neighbors, or cut the recipe in half for everyday meals.

COOK WITH US!

Join us each third Tuesday of the month and cook along with New Orleans Magazine and our featured chef on Instagram.

@neworleansmagazine

1

Have a mis en place ready before you begin this recipe. Once you start cooking the risotto it requires constant attention.

2

Risotto is best when the temperature is maintained. Make sure the risotto stays at a boil until done. Cooling down and warming up the rice will make it hard for the rice to release all its starch. This release of starch is key to a well-made risotto. The stock should stay at a simmer, and everything added to the risotto prior to serving should at least be room temperature

3

Take care to keep the spoon in contact with the bottom of the pan. This helps keep from splashing the liquid while stirring.

4

Feeling lazy? Go ahead and use pre-peeled and cubed raw butternut squash from the grocery. You will need about 4 1/2 cups. Adjust the roasting time for the squash to 15-20 minutes. Watch carefully. You want the squash soft but not browned.

ROASTED BUTTERNUT SQUASH RISOTTO WITH BROWN BUTTER, SAGE, AND RICOTTA

Shared by chef Tom Branighan, Mamou

Serves 8

1 medium butternut squash, about 2 1/2 pounds

3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil, in all

Salt and pepper

3 1/2 quarts vegetable stock

4 cups arborio rice

1 large yellow onion, small diced

2 cups dry white wine, such as sauvignon blanc

11 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature

3 1/2 cups grated parmesan

1 cup roughly chopped sage leaves

2 cups whole milk ricotta

2 tablespoons toasted pine nuts

1. Preheat oven to 350ºF.

2. Halve butternut squash lengthwise and scoop out the seeds with a spoon. Discard the seeds or reserve for another use.

3. Brush the inside of the squash with olive oil and liberally season with salt and pepper. Roast the squash until fork tender, about 30 minutes. Cool.

4. Scoop out the cooked flesh from the rind of the squash and puree using a food processor. You can also just work it in a bowl until smooth. Set aside at room temperature.

5. Simmer stock in large pot next to the pot within which you will cook the risotto. Have a ladle at hand for adding the liquid to the rice.

6. Heat a large Dutch oven over high heat. Add the rice and add 1/2 cup of olive oil. Stir constantly. You will begin to smell the rice toasting. Toast the rice until it turns translucent, about 5 minutes. Don’t be afraid to toast the rice longer, this flavor shines in the finished product. Just stay on it and keep stirring.

7. Add the onion and stir quickly. Once the rice becomes sticky, add the wine. Continuously stir until the aroma of alcohol is mostly gone. Don’t worry about cooking it all off as you will burn the bottom of the pan before that happens.

8. Add 1 quart of vegetable stock to the risotto and stir vigorously. Agitation helps release the starch from the rice.

9. Once the rice is thick like oatmeal, add the second quart of stock. Continue to stir. Add 2 teaspoons of salt to the rice. Keep stirring. When the second increment of stock has thickened add the 3rd quart of stock.

10. Once this third addition of stock has cooked for about 5 minutes. Test the rice. It should be almost done. Doneness here is subjective. Some people like slight tooth some people like the rice to be completely done. If it’s not done to your liking just add a little stock and wait.

11. Add the pureed squash, 5 tablespoons of butter, and half the cheese. Stir. Test the consistency. Risotto should be just thicker than soup. While adding more butter and cheese will make it taste better, it will also help thicken the risotto. Taste and adjust with up to 5 tablespoons of butter and the remaining cheese as desired. Use remaining stock to adjust the texture accordingly. Once the final amount of cheese is added, taste again and adjust for salt. Doing this before the cheese can result in an over salted risotto. Remove the risotto from the heat. It should hold its heat with a lid for at least 20 minutes.

12. Prior to serving, melt 1 tablespoon of butter. When the butter is butter is brown and smells nutty, add all the sage. When the sage has wilted and softened, add the butter and sage to the ricotta and mix well.  To serve: Spoon the risotto onto shallow soup plates. Tap the underside of the plate to help the risotto spread out.  Place 3 dollops of ricotta atop each serving and sprinkle the pine nuts on top.

DINING GUIDE

The Dining Guide is comprised of restaurants recently reviewed and visited by New Orleans Magazine The list will change regularly to provide information on others that are also worth noting and acknowledging. Please check restaurant websites for up-to-date hours and locations. If you feel that a restaurant has been misplaced, please email Editor Ashley McLellan at Ashley@MyNewOrleans.com.

$ = AVERAGE ENTRÉE PRICE $ = $5-10 $$ = $11-15 $$$ = $16-20 $$$$ = $21-25 $$$$$ = $25 & UP

AMERICAN

Acorn City Park, $ AcornNola.com

Audubon Clubhouse Uptown, $$ AudubonInstitute.org

Boulevard American Bistro Multiple Locations, $$$ BoulevardBistro.com

Caffe! Caffe! Metairie, $ CaffeCaffe.com

Café NOMA City Park, $ CafeNoma.com

Camellia Grill Riverbend, $ 309-2679

District Donuts Sliders Brew Multiple Locations, $ DonutsAndSliders.com

Five Happiness Mid-City, $$ FiveHappiness.com

Martin Wine Cellar Multiple Locations, $ MartinWineCellar.com

New Orleans Social House CBD/Warehouse District, $$ NOSocialHouse.com

Parkway Bakery and Tavern Mid-City, $ ParkwayPoorBoys.com

Restaurant August

CBD/Warehouse District, $$$$$ RestaurantAugust.com

Rib Room French Quarter, $$$ RibRoomNewOrleans.com

The Grill Room

CBD/Warehouse District, $$$$$ GrillRoomNewOrleans.com

The Pelican Club

French Quarter, $$$$$ PelicanClub.com

Ye Olde College Inn Carrollton, $$$ CollegeInn1933.com

Zea’s Rotisserie and Grill Multiple Locations, $$$ ZeaRestaurants.com

ASIAN FUSION/PAN ASIAN Blue Giant Lower Garden District, $$ BlueGiantNOLA.com

Hoshun Restaurant Uptown, $$ HoshunRestaurant.com

Little Tokyo Multiple Locations, $$ LittleTokyoNola.com

Lotus Bistro Lakeview, $$ LotusBistroNOLA.com

MoPho Mid-City, $$$ MoPhoNola.com

Rock-N-Sake Multiple Locations, $$$ RockNSake.com

Union Ramen Bar Lower Garden District, $$ UnionRamen.com

BAKERY/BREAKFAST

Breads on Oak Multiple Locations, $ BreadsOnOak.com.

Café du Monde Multiple Locations, $ CafeDuMonde.com

CC’s Coffee House Multiple Locations, $ CCsCoffee.com

Gracious Bakery + Café Multiple Locations, $ GraciousBakery.com

Ruby Slipper Café Multiple Locations, $$ TheRubySlipperCafe.net

BURGERS

Bayou Burger French Quarter, $$ 5SportsBarNewOrleans.com

Port of Call French Quarter, $$ PortOfCallNola.com

The Company Burger Uptown, $ TheCompanyBurger.com

FRENCH

Broussard’s French Quarter, $$$$ Broussards.com

Café Degas Faubourg St. John, $$ CafeDegas.com

Coquette Uptown, $$$ CoquetteNola.com

Justine French Quarter, $$$ JustineNola.com

La Crêpe Nanou Uptown, $$$ LaCrepeNanou.com

La Petite Grocery Uptown, $$$ LaPetiteGrocery.com

Lilette Uptown, $$$$$ LiletteRestaurant.com

GASTROPUB

Bouligny Tavern Uptown, $$ BoulignyTavern.com

Cane & Table French Quarter, $$ CaneAndTableNola.com

Copper Vine CBD/Warehouse District, $$$ CopperVine.com

Orleans Grapevine Wine Bar and Bistro French Quarter, $$$ OrleansGrapevine.com

Patrick’s Bar Vin French Quarter, $$ PatricksBarVin.com

Sylvain French Quarter, $$$ SylvainNOLA.com

The Delachaise Uptown, $$ TheDelaichaise.com

ITALIAN

Arnaud’s Remoulade French Quarter, $$ Remoulade.com

Chartres House French Quarter, $$$ ChartresHouse.com

Domenica CBD/Warehouse District, $$$$ DomenicaRestaurant.com

Gianna Restaurant CBD/Warehouse District, $$$$ GiannaRestaurant.com

Irene’s Cuisine French Quarter, $$$$ IrenesNola.com

Josephine Estelle CBD/Warehouse District, $$$ JosephineEstelle.com

Liuzza’s Mid-City, $$ Liuzzas.com

Muriel’s Jackson Square French Quarter, $$$$ Muriels.com

Napoleon House French Quarter, $ NapoleonHouse.com

Pascal’s Manale Uptown, $$$$ PascalsManale.com

Restaurant R’evolution French Quarter, $$$$$ RevolutionNola.com

Tommy’s Cuisine CBD/Warehouse District, $$$$$ TommysNewOrleans.com

Vincent’s Italian Cuisine Multiple Locations, $$$ VicentsItalianCuisine.com

LOUISIANA FARE

Acme Oyster House Multiple Locations, $$ AcmeOyster.com

Antoine’s French Quarter, $$$$$ Antoines.com

BA CHI CANTEEN

Uptown foodies were devastated upon learning that Ba Chi Canteen, the casual, modern Vietnamese eatery on Maple St. would be shutting its doors for good recently. But there’s no need for despair! Ba Chi now has a new, clean and modern home in Metairie. Not only will you find a clean, contemporary dining room there, but all of your favorites, from their classic pho and banh mi to their more adventurous efforts like kimchi fries, “bacos” (Vietnamese tacos - think soft shell crab with eel sauce), and gyoza “nachos.” With fair prices and generous portions as well as outstanding, globe-trotting flavors, Jefferson Parish has never been this lucky to gain a new neighbor!

If you haven’t been to Jack Rose in the Pontchartrain Hotel recently, know that it’s become so much more than Mile High Pie. Of course, you’ll still find one of the quintessential New Orleans desserts there, in all its enormous, chocolate-drizzled ice cream splendor, but Chef Brian Landry isn’t one to rest on either his laurels or tradition. These days, you’re likely to encounter local favorites like blue crab and shrimp-stuffed arancini and a stellar poisson en papillote with crab butter, but also a new fresh pasta program, which recently rolled out (literally) with dishes like pappardelle with oxtail, radiatore with jumbo lump crab, and a gorgeous fettucini nero topped with scallops, wild mushrooms, vermouth cream and parmesan. Whether it’s a bachelorette party, anniversary, date night, or just Wednesday, dinner at Jack Rose is always a fine way to celebrate.

JACK ROSE

Arnaud’s French Quarter, $$$$$ ArnaudsRestaurant.com

Austin’s Metairie, $$$ AustinsNo.com

BIrdy’s Behind the Bower Garden District, $$ BirdysNola.com

Boucherie Carrollton, $$ Boucherie-Nola.com

The Bower Garden District, $$$ TheBowerNola.com

Brennan’s French Quarter, $$$$ BrennansNewOrleans.com

Brigtsen’s Riverbend, $$$$$ Brigtsens.com

Café Reconcile Central City, $$ CafeReconcile.org

Casamento’s Uptown, $$ CasamentosRestaurant.com

Clancy’s Uptown, $$$ ClancysNewOrleans.com

Cochon CBD/Warehouse District, $$ CochonRestaurant.com

Copeland’s Multiple Locations, $$ CopelandsofNewOrleans.com

Commander’s Palace Garden District, $$$$ CommandersPalace.com

Court of Two Sisters French Quarter, $$$$$ CourtOfTwoSisters.com

Crabby Jack’s Metairie, $ CrabbyJacksNola.com

Criollo French Quarter, $$$ CriolloNola.com

Dooky Chase Restaurant Treme, $$ DookyChaseRestaurant.com

Drago’s Multiple Locations, $$$$ DragosRestaurant.com

Emeril’s CBD/Warehouse District, $$$$$ EmerilsRestaurants.com

Galatoire’s French Quarter, $$$$$ Galatoires.com

Gautreau’s Uptown, $$$$$ GautreausRestaurant.com

Gris Gris Garden District, $$$ GrisGrisNola.com

Herbsaint CBD/Warehouse District, $$$$$ Herbsaint.com

House of Blues French Quarter, $$ HouseOfBlues.com/ NewOrleans

Jack Rose Garden District, $$$$ JackRoseRestaurant.com

Katie’s Restaurant and Bar Mid-City, $$ KatiesInMidCity.com

Mandina’s Mid-City, $$ MandinasRestaurant.com

Mother’s CBD/Warehouse District, $$ MothersRestaurant.net

Mr. B’s Bistro French Quarter, $$$$ MrBsBistro.com

Mulate’s CBD/Warehouse District, $$ Mulates.com

NOLA French Quarter, $$$$$ EmerilsRestaurants.com/NolaRestaurant

Palace Café CBD/Warehouse District, $$$ PalaceCafe.com

Ralph’s On The Park Mid-City, $$$ RalphsOnThePark.com

Richard Fiske’s Martini Bar & Restaurant French Quarter, $$$ RichardFiskes.com

Royal House French Quarter, $$$ RoyalHouseRestaurant.com

Saint John French Quarter, $$$ SaintJohnNola.com

St. Roch Market Upper 9th Ward, $$ StRochMarket.com

Tableau French Quarter, $$$ TableauFrenchQuarter.com

The Bistreaux French Quarter, $$ MaisonDupuy.com/dining

The Bombay Club French Quarter, $$$$ TheBombayClub.com

Toups’ Meatery Mid-City, $$$ ToupsMeatery.com

Tujague’s French Quarter, $$$$$ TujaguesRestaurant.com

PIZZA

Pizza Delicious Bywater, $ PizzaDelicious.com

Reginelli’s Pizzeria Multiple Locations, $$ Reginellis.com

Theo’s Pizza Multiple Locations, $$ TheosPizza.com

Pizza Domenica Multiple Locations, $$ PizzaDomenica.com

SEAFOOD

Briquette CBD/Warehouse District, $$$$ Briquette-Nola.com

Deanie’s Seafood Multiple Locations,$$$ Deanies.com

Dickie Brennan’s Bourbon House French Quarter, $$$$ BourbonHouse.com

Don’s Seafood Metairie, $$$ DonsSeafoodOnline.com

Grand Isle Restaurant CBD/Warehouse District, $$$$ GrandIsleRestaurant.com

GW Fins

French Quarter, $$$$$ GWFins.com

Kingfish French Quarter, $$$ KingfishNewOrleans.com

Le Bayou French Quarter, $$$ LeBayouRestaurant.com

Mr. Ed’s Seafood and Italian Restaurant Metairie, $$ AustinsNo.com

Mr. Ed’s Oyster Bar & Fish House Multiple Locations, $$$ MrEdsRestaurants.com/ oyster-bar

New Orleans Creole Cookery French Quarter, $$$ NewOrleansCreoleCookery. com

Oceana Grill French Quarter, $$ OceanaGrill.com

Pêche

CBD/Warehouse District, $$$ PecheRestaurant.com.

Pier 424

French Quarter, $$$ Pier424SeafoodMarket.com

Red Fish Grill French Quarter, $$$ RedFishGrill.com

SPECIALTY FOODS

Antoine’s Annex French Quarter, $$$ Antoines.com/AntoinesAnnex

STEAKHOUSE

Crescent City Steaks Mid-City, $$$$ CrescentCitySteaks.com

Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse French Quarter, $$$$ DickieBrennansSteakhouse. com

Doris Metropolitan French Quarter, $$$$ DorisMetropolitan.com

Galatoire’s 33 Bar & Steak French Quarter, $$$ Galatoires33BarAndSteak. com

La Boca CBD/Warehouse District, $$$ LaBocaSteaks.com

Mr. John’s Steakhouse Uptown, $$$ MrJohnsSteakhouse.com

Ruth’s Chris Steak House Multiple Locations, $$$$$ RuthsChris.com

The Steakhouse at Harrah’s CBD/WarehouseDistrict, $$$$$ HarrahsNewOrleans.com

WORLD

1000 Figs

Faubourg St. John, $$ 1000Figs.com

Barracuda Uptown, $ EatBarracuda.com

Bayona French Quarter, $$$$$ Bayona.com

Bywater Brew Pub Bywater, $$$ BywaterBrewPub.com

Compére Lapin CBD/Warehouse District, $$$$$ CompereLapin.com

El Gato Negro Multiple Locations, $$ ElGatoNegroNola.com

Lucy’s CBD/Warehouse District, $ LucysRetiredSurfers.com

Lüke CBD/Warehouse District, $$$ LukeNewOrleans.com

Mona’s Café Mid-City, $ MonasCafeAndDeli.com

Patois Uptown,$$$ PatoisNola.com

Saba Uptown, $$$ EatWithSaba.com

Saffron NOLA Uptown, $$$ SaffronNOLA.com

Seaworthy CBD/Warehouse District, $$$$ SeaworthyNola.com

Shaya Uptown, $$$ ShayaRestaurant.com

Education

Fall brings a number of open houses and tours at area schools, offering parents and their children an opportunity to see firsthand the academic, athletic, and artistic programs that develop future leaders. From a child’s earliest years through their adolescence, the influences of educators and fellow students will help define the person they become. When considering your child’s education, consider the following unique approaches from K-12 schools as well as those focused on a child’s early or high school years. Many will be hosting prospective students and their families this month.

CONTINUOUS EDUCATION / K-12

Arden Cahill Academy

Arden Cahill Academy combines a strong education with the unique qualities of an outdoor country environment minutes from downtown.

Nestled along Bayou Fatma in Gretna, the 12-acre campus currently serves students from six weeks in its Infant Center through 12th grade in its High School. Arden Cahill Academy graduated its first class of high school seniors in May of 2023 and is proud to continue its tradition of academic excellence and cultural enrichment through its college preparatory curriculum.

Horse stables, a petting farm, a STEAM Lab, art studios, band and music rooms, and a 300-seat theater make the Arden Cahill Academy campus unique. The academy also hosts Cahill Camp Corral, a 10-week summer camp that has been voted the #1 summer camp for three years in a row by readers of Gambit Weekly.

Interested families are encouraged to register online at ardencahillacademy.com to attend a weekly tour or attend the Fall Open House October 24th, 9 to 11 a.m. and 4 to 6 p.m.

EARLY EDUCATION

Kehoe-France

Kehoe-France, with campuses in Metairie and Covington, stands as a beacon for transformative academic journeys. Instilling a lifelong love for learning, leadership, and service, the school welcomes children from eight weeks through 7th grade. At Kehoe-France, students are set on a path to discovery while developing the skills they need to be productive citizens of a global community. Every student engages with a rigorous and balanced curriculum, fostering holistic development and readiness for a connected, innovative world.

As a member of the International Schools Partnership, Kehoe-France is part of a global group of private schools committed to continuous improvement and offering students enriching, beyond-the-classroom learning experiences. To explore the school’s Southshore campus in Metairie, call  504-733-0472 or visit kehoe-france.com. For Kehoe-France Northshore in Covington, call 985-892-4415 or visit kehoe-francens.com

St. Andrew’s Episcopal School

St. Andrew’s Episcopal School is the oldest Episcopal school in New Orleans with 66 years of experience in educating the mind, body, and spirit of young children. St. Andrew’s enrolls boys and girls 12 months through eighth grade, offering a nurturing yet challenging education that focuses on “Cherishing Childhood, Developing Character and Cultivating Leaders.” If you are looking for a school that will nurture your child’s love of learning while helping to build their self-esteem, leadership skills, and social skills, St. Andrew’s just may be the place for your child.

What to learn more about St. Andrew’s? Visit on St. Andrew’s Episcopal

School Day at the Pumpkin Patch on Thursday, October 19 from 3:30 p.m. – 5:00 p.m. Get to know the St. Andrew’s family and interact with administrators, faculty members, staff, parents and students. Enjoy planned, engaging activities for children ranging from 12 months – Grade 8. Registration is required. For more information, visit saesnola.org/ admissions/visit-our-campus.

Cathedral Montessori School

Celebrating over ten years of growth, Cathedral Montessori School (CMS) uses Montessori equipment and materials designed to inspire self-directed learning. A non-profit, co-educational, certified Montessori School, CMS now serves students ages three through twelve and changes the educational landscape of the city by providing a preschool through sixth grade private school Montessori education in New Orleans.

CMS provides an education of hope, self-motivation, and discovery to a greater population of students who will go on to contribute and problemsolve creatively in both the local community and across the world. Growth, transformation, and change are celebrated at CMS, but the curriculum and culture remain constant to support independent academic inquiry and discovery, emotional confidence and empathy, and social justice and collective responsibility.

CMS welcomes you to call for a visit to the campus, learn about the school’s philosophy, and join its community. For more information, visit cathedralmontessori.org or call 504-252-4871.

Ecole Bilingue de la Nouvelle-Orléans

Ecole Bilingue de la Nouvelle-Orléans (EB) is an Independent bilingual school accredited by both the French Ministry of Education and the State of Louisiana. The mission of Ecole Bilingue is to develop globally literate students through a rigorous bilingual French-American curriculum set in a nurturing and multicultural community.

Graduates of EB excel in high schools, locally, nationally, and abroad. The school’s curriculum adheres.

Located off Magazine Street in Uptown New Orleans, Ecole Bilingue spans across a four-building campus. Classes are offered for children in preschool (18 months) through 8th grade. For more information on Ecole Bilingue de la Nouvelle-Orléans, please visit ebnola.com. To schedule a tour, call 504-896-4500.

Jewish Community Day School

Jewish Community Day School of Greater New Orleans (JCDS) is a coeducational independent school for students ages two months through 6th grade, with plans to expand through seventh grade in 2026 and eighth grade in 2027. Balancing challenging academics with an enriching Jewish Studies program, a JCDS education is interdisciplinary, project-based, and holistic.

The school’s small class size and differentiated instruction ensure each child is valued for their individual strengths. Students take what they have learned at JCDS beyond the school’s boundaries, too, using their education to fulfill the Jewish value of tikkun olam, repairing the world.

JCDS is a nurturing school where families of all backgrounds are welcomed and children are prepared to be engaged, compassionate leaders. The school’s Fall Open House takes place on Sunday, October 22 at 12 p.m. To learn more or schedule a tour, please contact admissions@jcdsnola.org or call 504-887-4091.

HIGH SCHOOLS

De La Salle High School

Located on St. Charles Avenue in the heart of Uptown, De La Salle High School is the only private, Catholic, coeducational high school serving the city of New Orleans for students in 8th – 12th grades. Rooted in the 350-year old Lasallian tradition of the Christian Brothers, De La Salle aims to help students reach their highest personal and academic potential by implementing innovative technology, a collegiate model curriculum, and a multitude of extracurricular activities.

In the classroom, De La Salle offers a wide array of AP and Dual Enrollment classes and boasts a 100% college acceptance rate for its seniors. De La Salle offers 16 varsity sports and over 35 clubs and extracurricular activities.

De La Salle invites you to explore the school by scheduling a private tour of the campus, scheduling a Spend a Day for your child, or visiting our Open House on Tuesday, November 7th. For more information, visit delasallenola.com

Mount Carmel Academy

The Mount Carmel Academy experience is filled with opportunities for each student to pursue her passions, uncover new talents, grow spiritually, and discover the person God created her to become. Students collaborate with peers, view failures as opportunities for growth, and approach an everchanging and complex world with an inquisitive mind.

Small class sizes (average of fifteen) ensure an interactive and inclusive learning environment. Students are encouraged to expand their interests as they navigate through more than 50 extracurricular activities and become active participants in the community through the school’s service learning program. Graduates depart from Mount Carmel Academy with confidence in themselves and a love for each other. They are well-prepared for college and beyond.

Explore the Mount Carmel Academy campus, meet students and teachers, and learn more at an Open House on October 12 from 3 - 7:30 p.m. RSVP on mcacubs.com.

RESOURCES FOR STUDENTS

NOLA Speech and Language

NOLA Speech and Language provides a personalized, hands-on approach in all areas of pediatric speech and language skills. Lesley Brown has over 15 years of clinical experience as a speech-language pathologist. She and her team help children overcome a range of delays and disorders by addressing speech and language skills. Conveniently located in Mid-City, her practice offers services that include speech-language evaluations and therapy in all areas of pediatric speech and language skills: articulation, oral motor, voice, fluency, language, processing, and reading.

Sessions at NOLA Speech and Language are available before and after school, and sessions are also available on-site in schools and daycares across the metro area. This team of experienced speech-language pathologists collaborate with parents, teachers, and caregivers to stimulate progress from the classroom to the home.

For more information or to schedule a consultation, visit nolaspeechandlanguage.com or call 504-400-4239. •

Fall Weekends

Whether your favorite fall activity is a leisurely stroll through the garden, a game-day tailgate, or an annual festival that celebrates your favorite harvest, there’s no lack of activities during the months of October and November. Opportunities to experience arts and culture are the perfect complement to a decadent meal or a happy hour cocktail in a brand new outfit. Whether you’re vacationing or staycationing, the following restaurants, organizations, and travel destinations are here to help you relax in style with friends and family. Mark your calendar and make your fall weekend getaway plans now—the holidays will be here before you know it.

FOOD & DRINK

New Orleans Creole Cookery

Celebrate the arrival of fall and football season this year with a return to New Orleans’ favorite traditions: weekend brunch and a new-and-improved Scotch whiskey and oyster happy hour at New Orleans Creole Cookery’s newly renovated oyster bar. Join friends and family in the heart of the French Quarter and enjoy the beautiful fall breezes from the restaurant’s charming courtyard or settle into its traditional dining room. On Saturdays and Sundays in October, the restaurant hosts a Botanist Gin Brunch with refreshing eye openers to accompany dishes like shrimp and grits, crispy chicken and waffles, and signature Gator Hash.

New Orleans Creole Cookery is everything you love about New Orleans in a setting to fit every occasion. Famous for its authentic Creole fare and the timehonored classics such as Gumbo, Shrimp Creole, Crawfish Etouffee, and Snapper Pontchartrain, the restaurant is also perfect for a quick snack or a leisurely weekend feast.

Learn more at NewOrleansCreoleCookery.com. Call 504-524-9632 for reservations.

Briquette

Welcome the fall season with delicious food and wine shared together at Briquette, the celebrated seafood destination from restaurateur Anna Tusa, Owner of New Orleans Creole Cookery. With Briquette, Tusa puts seafood and contemporary coastal cuisine at the center of the dining experience. Briquette is also known locally for its enthusiasm for high quality, often hard-to-find wines and spirits and recently won the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence for its discerning, expansive wine list. Stay tuned for Briquette’s November Spirited Dinner featuring Remy Martin.

With space for hundreds of guests, Briquette is well suited to host your fall

or winter event, whether a corporate dinner, reception, rehearsal dinner, or a cocktail party. Every menu is hand-crafted to suit your needs. Briquette is currently open for dinner daily from 5 - 10 p.m. Briquette is located at 701 S. Peters Street in the Warehouse District.

ARTS & CULTURE NEW ORLEANS OPERA ASSOCIATION

Fasten your seat belts for a powerful journey through the human experience with New Orleans Opera Association’s (NOOA) 2023-2024 season. From The Marriage of Fiagro, a dark comedy surrounding infidelity, to a familial tragedy brought on by police violence in the award-winning production of Blue, a family feud triggered by politics in Lucia di Lammermoor, and a one-night-only concert by New Orleanian and global operatic sensation Lisette Oropesa, this season offers relatable experiences for everyone.

Off the stage, NOOA shares fun and thought-provoking musical experiences across the community through its popular Opera on Tap series and Community Conversations. Upcoming events include Opera on Tap at The Abita Brew Pub (Oct. 25) and The Domino (Nov.1), The Opera Ball (Oct. 7) and Community Conversations at the New Orleans Opera Guild Home (Oct. 5).

For tickets or additional information about these and other programs, visit the New Orleans Opera online at neworleansopera.org.

Evenings With Enrique - The Helis Foundation

Enjoy the cool, breezy evenings of fall with extended hours at the New Orleans Botanical Garden, which hosts Evenings with Enrique presented by The Helis Foundation every Wednesday in October. Stroll through the Garden’s 2,000 blooming flowers and plants from around the world while listening to live music, enjoying food and drink, and taking in the works of Enrique Alférez. Launched in 2016, Evenings with Enrique pays homage to this renowned artist, who has over 20 sculptures featured in the The Helis Foundation Enrique Alférez Sculpture Garden set within sweeping footpaths surrounded by lush, tropical flowers and shrubs.

Alférez was a Mexican American artist who lived in New Orleans for almost 70 years. He was active during the Works Progress Administration (WPA), and his sculptures can be found throughout New Orleans, including Ogden Museum of Southern Art, New Orleans Museum of Art, Poydras Corridor Sculpture Exhibition, and throughout City Park. For more information on Evenings with Enrique and other events supported by The Helis Foundation, visit thehelisfoundation.org.

Gulf Shores Orange Beach

FASHION & DESIGN PERLIS CLOTHING

From classes to games to parties, your one-stop clothing store is PERLIS in Uptown New Orleans, French Quarter, Mandeville, and Baton Rouge. Complement your activewear, casual, and dress casual wardrobe with the latest selections from top quality labels: Barbour, Bonobos, Duck Head, Johnnie O, Patagonia, Peter Millar, Queen of Sparkles, Smathers & Branson, Sparkle City, Southern Marsh, Southern Tide, Tasc, Vineyard Vines, Vuori, 34 Heritage, and more.

“We are continuously adding to our iconic crawfish logo collection of polos, tees, sun shirts, sport shirts, and other items that are recognizable not only locally but around the country,” says David W. Perlis, President. “We constantly seek the best quality clothing and fashion for our customers.”

For 85 years, PERLIS has been committed to complete customer satisfaction and unparalleled service including complimentary lifetime alterations. Stop by any PERLIS location, call 800 725-6070, or shop online at perlis.com.

VACATION & STAYCATION

ACE HOTEL NEW ORLEANS

The Ace Hotel New Orleans and its restaurants, lounges, and music venue—Josephine Estelle, Seaworthy, Alto and Three Keys—offer the best in cuisine, cocktails, and culture for discerning locals and visitors who want to relax with good company and great ambiance. Fall is prime pool time at Alto, where the heated water, glowing fire pits, and winter cocktails make for unforgettable afternoons and evenings. Cool down on Sundays with Easy at Alto’s chill DJ sets from 3 - 7 p.m. and turn Monday into the ultimate fun-day with Service Industry Night deals starting at 11 a.m. and music at sunset. The Kitchen at Alto’s elevated snacks, sandwiches, and pizzas—and boozy weekly frozens—are available daily.

Ace Hotel New Orleans offers cheat codes and charm spells that’ll unlock the fun. From wedding weekend discounts, breakfast credits, poolside feasts, and weekday deals, find your perfect way to vacay or stay-cay at acehotel.com/new-orleans/ offers. Plan your fall weekends and book your dinner or room reservations at  acehotel.com/new-orleans.

Gulf Shores & Orange Beach

Fall is full of events along Alabama’s beaches in Gulf Shores and Orange Beach. Get ready for fresh seafood, live music, craft beer, and exciting races across November. The month kicks off with the Oyster Seafood Festival at The Hangout, November 3-4, featuring demonstrations, an oyster shucking competition, college football, and tons of fresh seafood and live music. From November 9-19, the Frank Brown International Songwriters’ Festival takes over the Alabama Gulf Coast with 11 days of music and over 200 nationally acclaimed songwriters sharing the stories behind their songs.

The Coastal Alabama Food Truck & Craft Beer Festival on November 11-12 features all varieties of cuisine, craft beer from local and regional brewers, live music, lawn games, and an art market. Finally, on November 25, the Coastal Half Marathon & 5 K takes place at Gulf State Park, offering a scenic racecourse for half-marathon and 5K runners as well as a one-mile fun run. With paved trails, the race welcomes runners, walkers, and wheelers.

Plan your trip to Gulf Shores and Orange Beach now at gulfshores.com. •

Brunch at New Orleans Creole Cookery

Purple & Gold Queen of Sparkles dress at PERLIS.

New Orleans Opera Association, The Marriage of Fiagro

Ace Hotel

Specialty Medicine

Whether wielding a scalpel or the controls of a state-of-the-art robotic surgical tool, area specialists move with precision in their work to improve health outcomes. With years of focused training and the support of experienced nurses and allied health professionals, these physicians and surgeons showcase steadfast dedication to their various fields. Health systems, hospitals, and clinics know that you seek the best care possible, and their new programs and technologies bring even more specialized care to the region. From unrelenting sinus problems or back pain to a recent cancer diagnosis, health problems can be overcome with answers from experienced health professionals.

WOMEN’S HEALTH

Tulane Doctors Women’s Services - Lakeside

The expert team at Tulane Doctors Women’s Services provides comprehensive care for the challenges faced in every phase of a woman’s life. Specializing in the areas of general obstetrics and gynecology, maternal-fetal medicine, reproductive endocrinology and fertility, minimally invasive surgery, female pelvic and reconstructive surgery, and gynecologic oncology, the providers at Tulane Doctors Women’s Services at Lakeside operate on the belief that every woman not only has the right to good obstetric and gynecologic care but that she is an active partner in her care.

Tulane OB/GYN specialists provide routine gynecological care, including annual well visits and treatment as needed for conditions that cause pelvic or vaginal pain, abnormal uterine bleeding, and other conditions that can affect your health, all in their state-of-the-art Lakeside facility. Additionally, Tulane OB/GYN specialists provide care before, during, and after pregnancy. For more information, or to make an appointment, visit tulanewomenshealth.com or call 504-988-4213.

Blue Cross and Blue Shield of Louisiana

Blue Cross and Blue Shield of Louisiana is devoted to its mission to improve the health and lives of Louisianians. September is Gynecologic Cancer Awareness Month, which is a good reminder for women 18 and older to schedule an annual wellness visit with a primary care provider or OB-GYN. This yearly checkup should include a Pap smear to screen for cervical cancer. There is no routine screening for ovarian or uterine cancer, though, which is why an annual exam is very important.

Let your healthcare provider know about your menstrual cycle and any changes or unusual symptoms you’ve noticed. Your annual wellness visit is also a great time to talk about your family and personal medical history and

get referred for any additional screenings or tests you need. If you have not had a woman’s wellness exam in more than a year, call your provider’s office and schedule one today.

For more information or find a provider, visit bcbsla.com or call 1-800-495-2583.

ALLERGY & ASTHMA

Breathe Easy Allergy & Asthma

Are you experiencing congestion or upper respiratory issues? Breathe easier with a visit to New Orleans’ premier allergy center, Breathe Easy Allergy & Asthma. Dr. Sonia Kamboj is a board certified allergist with over 13 years of experience in treating adults and children with allergic diseases including asthma, sinus/nasal allergies, skin diseases, and food allergy.

At Breathe Easy, Dr Kamboj provides in-office diagnostic allergy and pulmonary testing to customize a tailored plan to meet each patient’s needs. Whether through allergen avoidance, medical therapy, or desensitization, Breathe Easy Allergy can help patients find relief from their symptoms. Biologic therapies can also provide more targeted therapy for complicated respiratory, skin, and nasal diseases. Dr. Kamboj will take a proactive, comprehensive approach to help you select the treatment best suited to you.

Conveniently located in New Orleans and Marrero, Breathe Easy is here to help you “Breathe Easy in the Big Easy.” Dr Kamboj is a twice-named Castle Connolly Top Doctor® and  a 2023 New Orleans Magazine Top Doctor. For more information, visit breatheeasyallergy.com or call 504-867-6866.

PLASTIC SURGERY & AESTHETIC SERVICES

Dr. Sean Weiss - Facial Plastic Surgery

Are you looking for treatments to help with post-summer sun damage?

The office of Dr. Sean Weiss offers various aesthetic services to treat a variety of concerns including post-summer sun damage, also known as hyperpigmentation. Aesthetic services such as chemical peels are one of the best ways to target hyperpigmentation after a summer spent in the sun.

Chemical peels are used to remove damaged and/or dead layers of skin to reveal new skin that is younger, brighter, and healthier. A medium-depth, medical-grade chemical peel is a minimally invasive treatment that is safe and effective for all skin types. Lightening and brightening boosters may also be applied to specifically target and suppress pigment production as well as promote rapid cell turnover needed to minimize the appearance of sunspots. There is minimal downtime with this treatment, and peeling typically occurs on days three to five post treatment with results showing within seven days.

If you are ready to tackle stubborn pigment, contact Dr. Sean Weiss’ office today to schedule a consultation with him and his aesthetic nurse by calling 504-814-3223 or visiting seanweissmd.com/non-surgical/chemical-peels.

PAIN SPECIALISTS

Southern Pain & Neurological

Low back pain can encompass lumbar, sacroiliac joint (SIJ), and hip pain. For some people living with pain caused by SIJ degeneration and dysfunction, the most effective treatment is minimally invasive SIJ fusion if they do not respond to conservative measures.

A new technological advancement, the PsiF™ DNA Sacroiliac Joint Fusion System couples an inferior operational direction with a posterior approach. This provides the most direct and safest route to access the articular joint space for device fusion. The 10-step surgical process offers maximum fixation and stabilization by utilizing bone-implant interface. The approach from an inferior path allows the implant to be positioned at a “pivot point,” which addresses significant movement within the joint.

Dr. Paul Hubbell is a primary and secondary investigator with Omnia Medical, working to study and develop these non-surgical solutions. Dr. Hubbell has over 25 years of experience in pain management and anesthesia and sits on the board for a variety of medical societies. To learn more or to schedule a consultation with Dr. Hubbell at Southern Pain & Neurological, call 1-800-277-1265.

Louisiana Pain Specialists

Chronic neck and back pain can substantially hinder daily activities and overall quality of life. For those who have exhausted traditional treatment options, spinal cord stimulator (SCS) therapy may be an effective treatment option. At Louisiana Pain Specialists, the largest interventional pain practice in Louisiana, Dr. Neil Jolly and his team of expert physicians use this minimally invasive procedure as an alternative to surgery.

FDA approved for individuals who have chronic pain after spine surgery and for those who have never undergone spinal surgery, SCS therapy involves the implantation of a device that delivers electrical impulses to the spinal cord interrupting the pain signals to the brain. Patients are given a trial period to evaluate its effectiveness before pursuing the permanent device. Technological advancements have enhanced SCS therapy’s effectiveness, extending it as an option also for those suffering from diabetic peripheral neuropathy and chronic arm and leg pain.

To learn more or to make an appointment with one of Louisiana

Pain Specialists’ expert board-certified physicians, call 504-754-2334 or visit louisianapain.com

SENIOR CARE

The Peristyle at Bucktown

Located at 1443 Seminole Avenue in the heart of Bucktown, the Peristyle at Bucktown is the newest of the Peristyle Homes located just one block from Lake Pontchartrain. Peristyle Residences offer Residential Assisted Living and Memory Care in the comfort of luxurious, intimate homes complete with private bedrooms. At The Peristyle at Bucktown, the best of both worlds is at your fingertips. The Peristyle at Bucktown offers senior care services in a true residence that larger assisted living communities can emulate, but never truly compare. Peristyle Residences prides themselves in providing the highest level of care, comfort and compassion to seniors, offering peace of mind to their loved ones.

The Peristyle at Bucktown is specifically designed and built for people living with Alzheimer’s and dementia and is now accepting priority reservations. Schedule a tour today at peristyleresidences.com or by calling 504-285-5188.

CANCER CARE

Ochsner Health

Ochsner is excited to offer patients in Southeast Louisiana the same access to cutting-edge technology and leading cancer care that patients at MD Anderson Cancer Center receive in Houston, TX. Thanks to a partnership between Ochsner Health and MD Anderson, Ochsner MD Anderson Cancer Center provides patients in the region with access to cancer treatments that are among the most advanced in the nation. Just as they would at MD Anderson, patients at Ochsner MD Anderson receive customized treatment plans based on some of the latest research, access to MD Anderson’s protocols and practice standards, and an experienced team that treats common and rare cancers with quality outcomes.

As the only provider in Louisiana with a fully integrated cancer program based on MD Anderson’s practice standards and treatment plans, Ochsner is increasing access to care for new patients by offering expert care in seven locations across New Orleans, St. Tammany Parish, and Baton Rouge. To learn more, visit ochsner.org/EndCancer. •

Season 2 Premieres Sundays, October 15 - November 19 at 8pm

See it first on Saturday, October 7 at 10:30am during WYES MIMOSAS & MASTERPIECE at WYES. Tickets on sale at wyes. org/events.

Picking up in late ‘40s, the series return will take viewers from the war-torn streets of Britain deep into Nazi Germany, the resistance within occupied France and the brutal sands of the North African desert—where troops struggle to adapt to a very different kind of combat.

PROGRAMMING HIGHLIGHTS

Watch all WYES programs on WYES-TV and stream on wyes.org/live and on the free WYES and PBS Apps

BEGINNING ON SUNDAY, OCTOBER 15TH YOUR FAVORITE DRAMAS & MYSTERIES ARE BACK!

THE AMERICAN BUFFALO

Monday, October 16 & Tuesday, October 17 at 7pm & 9pm

In this new documentary from Ken Burns, viewers will see a biography of an improbable, shaggy beast that has found itself at the center of many of the country’s most mythic and heartbreaking tales. The two-part, four-hour series, which has been in production for four years, takes viewers on a journey through more than 10,000 years of North American history.

TURNING THE TIDE: A STORY OF HELL, HEALING AND HOPE

Premieres Monday, October 23 at 8pm; Repeats Wednesday, October 25 at 10pm & Monday, October 30 at 9pm

taken captive in their own backyards. With the clarity of hindsight, they share the warning signs and what makes a child more vulnerable. And with equal candor, they spotlight a growing force of good that is teaming up to fight an evil trade — an unlikely troupe of survivors, law enforcement officers, Louisiana First Lady Donna Edwards and a group of nuns running a secret healing center in the backwoods of Louisiana.

WYES brings the complex crisis of sex trafficking trade in Louisiana in a new documentary narrated by Karen Swensen. The film also shares hope with the growing army that has been formed to fight it.

In shocking transparency, three survivors share their journeys into the depths of depravity, having been lured or

The documentary will be followed by a special program featuring guests from law enforcement, education and health care discussing how Louisiana can better respond to the crisis of human trafficking, what resources are available and where more help is needed.

Produced, written & narrated by Karen Swensen. Directed, edited & photographed by Aaron Brownlee.

Photo Credit: PBS Distribution/Charlie Clift

Photo Credit: Mammoth Screen and MASTERPIECE

Photo Credit: © Black Camel Pictures & All3Media International

Photo Credit: Steve Ackerman

For all event details and to purchase tickets, go to wyes.org/events

WYES MIMOSAS & MASTERPIECE

FEATURING

"World on Fire, Season 2"

Saturday, October 7

10:30am | Screening: 11am

Be the first to see the premiere episode of MASTERPIECE "World on Fire, Season 2" while sipping mimosas!

WYES Studios | 916 Navarre Ave. | New Orleans

$25

Special thanks to our generous sponsor:

PRESENTS

MORGUS MADNESS

Fans of Morgus the Magnificent are invited to join fellow Friends of Science for a fun, wacky evening of food, music and all things MORGUS!

SATURDAY, OCTOBER 28 7-10pm | WYES Studios | 916 Navarre Ave. | New Orleans

$45

FOOD WINE & BEER COSTUME CONTEST MUSIC BY CONSORTIUM OF GENIUS

“Good evening, friends of science.”

Thank you to our sponsors

PRESENTING SPONSOR:

INVITATION SPONSOR:

Tia and Jimmy Roddy

YEAH YOU RIGHT! NEW ORLEANS

SPECIALTY SPONSORS:

Bonnie and John Boyd

Mr. BINGLE SPONSOR:

Anonymous

SECOND LINE SPONSOR:

Gayle and Tom Benson

Charitable Foundation

PATRON PARTY SPONSOR:

Arthur J. Gallagher Risk Management

Baker Donelson

Helaine and Ned Benjamin

Mary Beth Benjamin

Amanda and Ryan Berger

Blaine Kern’s Mardi Gras World

Bourgeois Bennett

Stephanie and Ryan Burks

CAPTRUST

Karen and Henry Coaxum

Corporate Realty

Fidelity Bank

Freeport-McMoRan Foundation

ENTERTAINMENT SPONSOR:

Paulette and Frank Stewart

WHERE Y’AT SPONSORS:

Cox Communications

First Horizon

Gallo Mechanical

Hancock Whitney

Juli Miller Hart

IMTT

James P. Raymond, Jr. Foundation

Lori and Bobby Savoie

Susan and Jimmy Gundlach

Jennifer and Fred Heebe

Erin and JP Hymel

Jones Walker

Lisa and Philip Lapeyre

Metairie Bank

Patrick F. Taylor Foundation

Red River Bank

Mark Romig and David Briggs

Royal Honda & The Brinsons

Alison Toussaint-LeBeaux

True Title

CHAMPAGNE SPONSOR:

Sandra Thompson Herman, Philanthropist

MEDIA SPONSORS:

NATIONAL ESTATE PLANNING AWARENESS WEEK

October 17-23, 2023

Whatever your stage in life, it is a good idea to think about and plan for how your affairs will be handled. A few simple steps today can give you peace of mind tomorrow by ensuring that you and your loved ones are well protected.

Contact us today for a FREE digital guide or booklet Personal Estate Planning Guide or for information on including WYES in your estate plans call Robin Cooper – 504.486.5511.

Make Gift-Giving Easy!

The holidays will be here before you know it. Make gift giving easy this season by purchasing one of WYES’ nostalgic DVDs or signed cookbooks from Chef Kevin Belton and Chef Dook Chase.

Browse and shop our DVDs and cookbooks at the WYES Shop at wyes.org/shop. For inquiries, please call 504-486-5511. Your purchase helps to support the WYES programming you love to watch.

WEEKDAYS ON

6pm

AGATHA CHRISTIE’S POIROT, SEASON 3 “The Mystery of the Spanish Chest” (Pt. 7/10)

10pm POV “Murders That Matter”

11:30pm

AMANPOUR AND COMPANY

3 TUESDAY

6pm PBS NEWSHOUR

7pm

FINDING YOUR ROOTS “Family: Lost and Found”

12:30pm

XAVIER RIDDLE AND THE SECRET MUSEUM

Xavier Riddle, his sister, Yadina, and their friend, Brad, meet heroes from the past – from Eleanor Roosevelt to Leonardo da Vinci. The series is inspired by best-selling kids book series, "Ordinary People Change the World," by New York Times bestselling author Brad Meltzer and illustrator Christopher Eliopoulos.

7pm

PROFESSOR T, SEASON 2 “The Trial” (Pt. 5/6) As a major trial gets underway, Professor T presents the case to his students--it involves a caretaker accused of shooting dead his rich employer. It seems an open and shut case, but the Professor turns expert witness to prove otherwise. Photo Credit: Laurence Cendrowicz/ Eagle Eye Drama

8pm

MASTERPIECE “Unforgotten, Season 5” (Pt. 5/6) Sunny and Jess attempt a reset as they follow the clues in the case.

9pm

MASTERPIECE “Van der Valk, Season

3” ‘Magic in Amsterdam, Part One’ (Pt. 5/6) The team are taken to the edge of reality following the death of a participant in a magical ritual.

10pm

8pm

BECOMING FRIDA KAHLO “A Star is Born (Pt. 3/3)” Explore Frida Kahlo’s life including her affair with Leon Trotsky, her trip to Paris on the eve of WWII with surrealist pioneer Andre Breton, and her return to Mexico where she divorces and then remarries husband Diego Rivera before her death. Photo Credit: The Detroit News

9pm

OF DENALI 6:30am ALMA’S WAY

7am WILD KRATTS

7:30am CURIOUS GEORGE

8am

DANIEL TIGER’S NEIGHBORHOOD

8:30am ROSIE’S RULES

9am SESAME STREET

9:30am WORK IT OUT WOMBATS!

10am DONKEY HODIE

10:30am

PINKALICIOUS & PETERRIFIC 11am ELINOR WONDERS WHY 11:30am NATURE CAT NOON HERO ELEMENTARY 12:30pm

XAVIER RIDDLE AND THE SECRET MUSEUM 1pm

DANIEL TIGER’S NEIGHBORHOOD

1:30pm ARTHUR

LUNA AND SOPHIE “Paradise Lost/ Lost Sons” (Pt. 9-10/10) In German with English subtitles.

2 MONDAY

6pm

PBS NEWSHOUR

7pm

ANTIQUES ROADSHOW “Vintage Hartford 2023” (Hour 1/2) Travel with ROADSHOW to Connecticut’s capital for updated Season 13 finds including a Cartier gold bracelet watch, a Tiffany & Co. sapphire ring, and a Harriman Expedition album with Curtis photos. Guess the top $40,000 to $60,000 treasure!

8pm

CELTIC THUNDER IRELAND Celtic Thunder is coming to the Saenger Theatre October 28. Become a WYES member and get tickets, with a special VIP option to attend the sound check before the show. All payments must be made in full by credit card. Details at wyes.org/tickets..

FRONTLINE “The Astros Edge: Triumph and Scandal in Major League Baseball”

10pm

AMERICAN EXPERIENCE “Roberto Clemente” an in-depth look at an exceptional baseball player and committed humanitarian who challenged racial discrimination to become baseball’s first Latino superstar.

11pm

AMANPOUR AND COMPANY

4 WEDNESDAY 6pm PBS NEWSHOUR

7pm

AMERICA OUTDOORS WITH BARATUNDE THURSTON, SEASON 2 “Utah: Choose Your Path” (Pt. 5/6)

8pm

NOVA “Ancient Earth: Birth of the Sky” (Pt. 1/5) See how Earth transformed from a barren hellscape to a planet capable of sustaining life.

9pm

EVOLUTION EARTH “Grasslands” (Pt. 5/5) Forgotten and overlooked, grasslands could hold the key to our planet’s survival.

10pm

CITY PARK MEMORIES traces the park history from its use by Native American tribes to its present-day enjoyment by generations of New Orleanians.

11pm

AMANPOUR AND COMPANY

5 THURSDAY

6pm

PBS NEWSHOUR

7pm STEPPIN’ OUT

7:30pm

BRITISH ANTIQUES ROADSHOW

8pm

AGATHA CHRISTIE’S MARPLE “The Sittaford Mystery” (Pt. 4/4)

9:30pm

AGATHA CHRISTIE’S POIROT, SEASON 3 “The Theft of the Royal Pub” (Pt. 8/10) The investigation takes Poirot to the English countryside, where he gets to experience the true English Christmas.

10:30pm

CALL THE MIDWIFE, SEASON 10 (Pt. 2/8)

11:30pm

AMANPOUR AND COMPANY

6 FRIDAY

6pm

PBS NEWSHOUR

8pm

WASHINGTON WEEK WITH THE ATLANTIC

8:30pm

WALL $TREET WRAP-UP WITH ANDRÉ LABORDE

9pm

AMERICAN MASTERS “Max Roach: The Drum Also Waltzes” Experience the groundbreaking sounds of bebop pioneer and virtuoso composer Max Roach, whose far-reaching ambitions were inspired and challenged by the inequities of the society around him.

10:30pm

NEXT AT THE KENNEDY CENTER “Let My Children Hear Mingus” The Kennedy Center celebrates jazz icon and social activist Charles Mingus at 100.

11:30pm

STEPPIN’ OUT

7 SATURDAY 5pm

AUDUBON PARK MEMORIES

6pm

THE LAWRENCE WELK SHOW “Salute to Male Singers”

7pm

ANTIQUES ROADSHOW “Vintage Tampa”

8pm

FINDING YOUR ROOTS “Family: Lost and Found”

9pm

BASEBALL “The National Pastime”

(Pt. 6/9) Joe DiMaggio achieves the longest hitting streak in history, Ted Williams becomes the last man to hit 400 in a season and the Brooklyn Dodgers win their first pennant in 20 years.

11:30pm

AUSTIN CITY LIMITS “Rodrigo Y Gabriela”

8 SUNDAY

into a Drugs Squad operation against a major trafficker that appears to implicate one of their closest colleagues.

8pm

MASTERPIECE “Unforgotten, Season 5”

(Pt. 6/6) Can Sunny, Jess and the team bring the clues in the case together and unravel the secrets to solve it?

7pm

INFORMED SOURCES Now in its 39th year, the weekly series hosted by Marcia Kavanaugh and produced by Errol Laborde, gives an in-depth look into the important news of metro New Orleans and Louisiana. Repeats Sunday mornings at 9:30am.

7:30pm

LOUISIANA: THE STATE WE’RE IN

2pm

THE AFRICAN AMERICANS: MANY RIVERS TO CROSS (Pts. 1-3/6)

6pm

AGATHA CHRISTIE’S POIROT, SEASON 3

“The Theft of the Royal Rub” (Pt. 8/10)

7pm

PROFESSOR T, SEASON 2 “Swansong”

(Pt. 6/6) After discovering the body of an undercover police officer in the trunk of a car, the CID team blunder

9pm

MASTERPIECE “Van der Valk, Season 3”

‘Magic in Amsterdam, Part Two’

(Pt. 6/6) As the investigation continues into an occult-related death, Lucienne is forced to confront painful memories buried in her past. Van der Valk himself decides to open his heart once more to Lena. Will he get his happy ever after?

10pm

ROYAL WIVES AT WAR Take a fresh look at the abdication crisis of 1936 through the eyes of the two women at its heart.

11pm

ASTRID, SEASON 2 “The Starling”

(Pt. 1/8) A famous lawyer is brutally shot dead in front of twelve witnesses who deny seeing or hearing anything upon questioning; the mystery is whether they are accomplices to the crime or just innocent people present at the wrong place at the wrong time. In French with English subtitles.

9 MONDAY 6pm

PBS NEWSHOUR

7pm

ANTIQUES ROADSHOW “Vintage

Hartford 2023” (Hour 2/2) Travel to Connecticut’s capital for updated Season 13 finds; one went up to $60,000!

SEASON FINALE

10am

THE DOOKY CHASE KITCHEN: LEAH’S LEGACY

Meet Chase Kamata, Leah Chase’s granddaughter, and the voice behind the 26part cooking series. Kamata has toured the globe as a singer and musical theatre actress, performing in venues that include the Sydney Opera House, as well as historic theaters in South Korea and the United Kingdom. She is also a visual artist whose works can be found in her family’s renowned restaurant, the Louis Armstrong International Airport, and private collections throughout the world.

5am MISTER ROGERS’ NEIGHBORHOOD

5:30am ARTHUR 6am MOLLY OF DENALI

6:30am ALMA’S WAY

7am

J. SCHWANKE’S LIFE IN BLOOM

7:30am

WOODSMITH SHOP

8am THIS OLD HOUSE 8:30am ASK THIS OLD HOUSE

9am KITCHEN QUEENS: NEW ORLEANS

9:30am KEVIN BELTON’S COOKIN’ LOUISIANA

10am

THE DOOKY CHASE KITCHEN: LEAH’S LEGACY

8pm

ANTIQUES ROADSHOW “Vintage Las Vegas” (Hour 2/2)

9pm

GERMAN NEW ORLEANS From the Garden District’s stately homes to the quintessential French bread, the city owes much to its German ancestors. Narrated by Eric Paulsen of WWL-TV.

10pm

INDEPENDENT LENS “El Equipo” A U.S. anthropologist sets out to train Latin American students in the use of forensic anthropology so they can investigate disappearances in Argentina during the "dirty war."

11:30pm

AMANPOUR AND COMPANY

10 TUESDAY

7pm

AMERICA OUTDOORS WITH BARATUNDE THURSTON, SEASON 2

“Maine: Embrace the Cold” (Pt. 6/6)

Baratunde meets a Mainer reviving the timeless craft of harvesting ice, straps on snowshoes to understand how being outside can help folks recovering from addiction and takes an icy plunge in the winter ocean to embrace the cold. Photo Credit: Part2 Pictures/Twin Cities PBS

8pm

NOVA “Ancient Earth: Frozen” (Pt. 2/5) 700 million years ago, Earth was a giant snowball cloaked in ice from pole to pole. How did life manage to hold on through this deadly deep freeze, find creative ways to bounce back, and thrive in the dramatically different world that emerged?

10:30am CHEF PAUL PRUDHOMME'S ALWAYS COOKING

11am

LIDIA’S KITCHEN

11:30am AMERICA’S TEST KITCHEN FROM COOK’S ILLUSTRATED

NOON COOK’S COUNTRY

12:30pm

CHRISTOPHER KIMBALL'S MILK STREET TELEVISION

1pm

GREAT CHEFS OF NEW ORLEANS

1:30pm WINE FIRST 2pm

PATI'S MEXICAN TABLE

2:30pm

SARA'S WEEKNIGHT MEALS

7pm

FINDING YOUR ROOTS “Chosen” Actors David Duchovny and Richard Kind trace their roots from Jewish communities in Eastern Europe to the U.S. Professor Henry Louis Gates, Jr. is host.

8pm

FRONTLINE “Elon Musk’s Twitter Takeover” Elon Musk’s long and often troubled relationship with Twitter. Musk’s journey from one of the platform’s most provocative users to its sole proprietor, exploring the acquisition, free speech and the company’s uncertain future. Explore Elon Musk’s journey from provocative user to sole proprietor of Twitter.

10pm

THE AMERICAN BUFFALO: A STORY OF RESILIENCE The presentation provides an in-depth discussion about the history and legacy of the largest land animal of the Western Hemisphere and is an intriguing introduction to THE AMERICAN BUFFALO ahead of its premiere on Monday, October 16 at 7:00 p.m. THE AMERICAN BUFFALO, a new two-part, four-hour series from Ken Burns.

11pm

AMANPOUR AND COMPANY

9pm

SECRETS OF THE DEAD “The Sunken Basilica”

10pm

AUDUBON PARK MEMORIES

11pm AMANPOUR AND COMPANY

12 THURSDAY 6pm PBS NEWSHOUR

7pm

STEPPIN’ OUT Host and producer Peggy Scott Laborde welcomes regular guests Poppy Tooker, Alan Smason, plus new roundtable visitors every week to discuss New Orleans restaurants, arts and entertainment. Never miss an episode. Watch every episode on WYES’ YouTube channel. Pictured: Host Peggy Scott Laborde with (l-r) Nia Woodside, Sarah Jane McMahon, Poppy Tooker and Alan Smason.

7:30pm

BRITISH ANTIQUES ROADSHOW

8pm

AGATHA CHRISTIE’S MARPLE, SEASON 3

“At Bertram’s Hotel” (Pt. 1/4)

9:30pm

AGATHA CHRISTIE’S POIROT, SEASON 3

“The Affair at the Victory Ball” (Pt. 9/10) Poirot is invited to a masquerade ball and is advised to come as someone famous — so he decides to go as himself. While he is there, he is called on to solve a murder. A fragment of a costume helps him to unmask the killer.

10:30pm

CALL THE MIDWIFE, SEASON 10 (Pt. 3/8)

11:30pm

AMANPOUR AND COMPANY

13 FRIDAY

6pm

PBS NEWSHOUR

7pm

INFORMED SOURCES

7:30pm

LOUISIANA: THE STATE WE’RE IN

8pm

WASHINGTON WEEK WITH THE ATLANTIC features a roundtable of journalists from print, broadcast and online news organizations who provide analysis of the week’s major national news stories and their impact on the lives of Americans.

8:30pm

WALL $TREET WRAP-UP WITH ANDRÉ LABORDE

9pm NEXT AT THE KENNEDY CENTER

“Robert Glasper’s Black Radio”

10pm COMING HOME

11:30pm

STEPPIN’ OUT

14 SATURDAY

5pm

GERMAN NEW ORLEANS

6pm

THE LAWRENCE WELK SHOW “MorningNoon-Night”

7pm

ANTIQUES ROADSHOW “Celebrating Asian-Pacific Heritage” Travel with ROADSHOW as we turn the spotlight on incredible items with Asian and Pacific

Islands origins including a Hawaiian Kou bowl, a Gandhi presentation spinning wheel, and an 1888 Joesph Nawahi painting. Which is valued at $250,000$300,000?

8pm

FINDING YOUR ROOTS “Chosen”

9pm

BASEBALL “The Capitol of Baseball” (Pt. 5/9)

11:30pm

AUSTIN CITY LIMITS “Jenny Lewis/Muna”

15 SUNDAY

2pm

THE AFRICAN AMERICANS: MANY RIVERS TO CROSS (Pts. 4-6/6)

6pm

AGATHA CHRISTIE’S POIROT, SEASON 3 “The Affair at the Victory Ball” (Pt. 9/10)

7pm

HOTEL PORTOFINO, SEASON 2 “Returns”

(Pt. 1/6) Set in the breathtakingly beautiful Italian seaside town of Portofino during the “Roaring 20s,” Season 2 begins in the summer of 1927 as Bella Ainsworth is still devoting all her energy into making Hotel Portofino a success. In the first episode, Bella’s new spa runs over budget amidst an anonymous inspection and a return from someone closer to home.

HIGHLIGHT

8pm

MASTERPIECE “World on Fire, Season 2”

(Pt. 1/6) opens in 1941. WWII has reached the sands of the Egyptian desert while German bombs fall on Manchester in England. Harry introduces an explosive force into Robina’s household. Pictured: Zofia Wichłacz as Kasia Photo Credit: Mammoth Screen and MASTERPIECE

9pm

MASTERPIECE “Annika, Season 2”

(Pt. 1/6) Annika (Nicola Walker, “Unforgotten”) and the team return to solve more murders that wash up from Scotland’s waters. Annika shares her wry insights on the crimes while raising her teen daughter, Morgan.

10pm

LITTLE BIRD “Love is all Around”

(Pt. 1/6) Bezhig Little Bird was adopted into a Jewish family at the age of five as Esther Rosenblum. Now in her twenties, Bezhig longs for the family she lost. Her quest lands her in the Canadian prairies where she discovers that she was one of the generation of children forcibly apprehended by the Canadian government through a policy, later coined the 60s Scoop. Pictured: Darla Contois as Esther Rosenblum/Bezhig Little Bird and Lisa Edelstein (“House”) as Gold Rosenblum Photo Credit: Steve Ackerman

11pm

ASTRID, SEASON 2 “Irezume” (Pt. 2/8) A Japanese gallery owner is found dead. In French with English subtitles.

16 MONDAY

6pm PBS NEWSHOUR

HIGHLIGHT

7pm

THE AMERICAN BUFFALO “Blood Memory” (Pt. 1/2) In this new documentary from Ken Burns, viewers will see a biography of an improbable, shaggy beast that has found itself at the center of many of the country’s most mythic and heartbreaking tales. The two-part, four-hour series, which has been in production for four years, takes viewers on a journey through more than 10,000 years of North American history and across some of the continent’s most iconic landscapes, tracing the mammal’s evolution, its significance to the Great Plains and, most importantly, its relationship to the Indigenous People of North America. In the first episode, newcomers to the continent bring a different view of the natural world, and the buffalo are driven to the brink of extinction. Photo Credit: Craig Melish

SUNDAYS ON

9pm

THE AMERICAN BUFFALO “Blood Memory” (Pt. 1/2)

17 TUESDAY

6pm PBS NEWSHOUR

7pm

STEPPIN’ OUT

7:30pm

BRITISH ANTIQUES ROADSHOW

8pm

AGATHA CHRISTIE’S MARPLE, SEASON 3 “Ordeal by Innocence” (Pt. 2/4)

9:30pm

AGATHA CHRISTIE’S POIROT, SEASON 3 “The Mystery of Hunter’s Lodge” (Pt. 10/10)

10:30pm CALL THE MIDWIFE, SEASON 10 (Pt. 4/8)

11:30am

THE DOOKY CHASE KITCHEN: LEAH’S LEGACY

Love the new cooking series? Then be sure to purchase a revised edition of the 1990 cookbook by Leah Chase. The series’ companion cookbook includes all recipes from the series, plus more family favorites — totaling 252 recipes. All cookbooks are signed by Chef Dook Chase. Purchase yours today for $33.95 at dookychase.wyes.org.

5am MISTER ROGERS’ NEIGHBORHOOD

5:30am ARTHUR

6am MOLLY OF DENALI

6:30am ALMA’S WAY

7am WILD KRATTS

7:30am CURIOUS GEORGE

8am

WALL $TREET WRAP-UP WITH ANDRÉ LABORDE

8:30am

LOUISIANA THE STATE WE’RE IN

9am FIRING LINE WITH MARGARET HOOVER

9:30am INFORMED SOURCES

10am VARIOUS PROGRAMMING

11am

KEVIN BELTON’S COOKIN’ LOUISIANA

11:30am

THE DOOKY CHASE KITCHEN: LEAH’S LEGACY

NOON ANTIQUES ROADSHOW

1pm

RICK STEVES' EUROPE

1:30pm

IRELAND WITH MICHAEL

7pm

THE AMERICAN BUFFALO “Into the Storm” (Pt. 2/2) By the late 1880s, the buffalo that once numbered in the tens of millions is teetering on the brink of extinction. But a diverse and unlikely collection of Americans start a movement that rescues the national mammal from disappearing forever. Their actions provide compelling proof that we are equally capable of pulling back from the brink of environmental catastrophe if we set our minds to it. Pictured: “The Last of the Buffalo” by Albert Bierstadt, 1888 Photo Credit: National Gallery of Art, Washington, DC

9pm

THE AMERICAN BUFFALO “Into the Storm” (Pt. 2/2)

18 WEDNESDAY

6pm

PBS NEWSHOUR

7pm

NATURE “The Platypus Guardian” In the season premiere, a Tasmanian man befriends a platypus while trying to protect the species from urban development.

8pm NOVA “Ancient Earth Sky: Life Rising (Pt. 3/5) See how life made the leap to land, turning a barren landscape into a lush, green world.

9pm

SECRETS OF THE DEAD “Jurassic Fortunes”

10pm

GERMAN NEW ORLEANS

11pm AMANPOUR AND COMPANY

19 THURSDAY 6pm PBS NEWSHOUR

11:30pm

AMANPOUR AND COMPANY

20 FRIDAY

6pm PBS NEWSHOUR

7pm INFORMED SOURCES

7:30pm

LOUISIANA: THE STATE WE’RE IN

8pm

WASHINGTON WEEK WITH THE ATLANTIC

8:30pm

WALL $TREET WRAP-UP WITH ANDRÉ LABORDE

9pm

NEXT AT KENNEDY CENTER

"Embracing Duality: Modern Indigenous Culture”

10pm

ART 21 "Art in the Twenty-First Century"

11pm

STEPPIN’ OUT

11:30pm

AMANPOUR AND COMPANY

21 SATURDAY

5pm

CITY PARK MEMORIES

6pm

THE LAWRENCE WELK SHOW “Island Show”

7pm

ANTIQUES ROADSHOW

“Extraordinary Finds 2”

8pm

FINDING YOUR ROOTS “This Land is My Land”

A SIGNED COPY MAKES A GREAT GIFT!

9pm

BASEBALL “A Whole New Ballgame” (Pt. 8/9)

10pm

ART 21 "Art in the Twenty-First Century"

11pm

AUSTIN CITY LIMITS “Lil Yachty/Sudan Archives”

22 SUNDAY

1pm

THE AMERICAN BUFFALO (Pts. 1-2/2)

6pm

AGATHA CHRISTIE’S POIROT, SEASON 3

"The Mystery of Hunter's Lodge” (Pt. 10/10)

7pm

ANTIQUES ROADSHOW “Vintage Chattanooga”

7pm

HOTEL PORTOFINO, SEASON 2

“Alliances” (Pt. 2/6) As Cecil tries to buy his way back into Bella’s affections, Lucian and Constance acknowledge their mutual attraction. Elsewhere, Nish overcomes his qualms to help Gianluca strike a blow against Mussolini’s Fascists with disastrous results. Photo Credit: PBS Distribution/Charlie Clift

8pm

MASTERPIECE “World on Fire, Season

2” (Pt. 2/6) Harry struggles to adapt to the realities of desert combat and Lois longs to leave home. In Paris, Henriette is in grave danger, and in Manchester, a mysterious stranger arrives at Robina’s door.

9pm

MASTERPIECE “Annika, Season 2” (Pt. 2/6) Annika and the team are sent to Edinburgh to investigate the death of a recently released prisoner whose body is pulled out of the River Fourth.

10pm

LITTLE BIRD “So Put Together” (Pt. 2/6) Determined to learn more about her pre-adoption life, Esther uproots her life.

11pm

ASTRID, SEASON 2 “Fermi Paradox” (Pt. 3/8) In French with English subtitles.

23 MONDAY

6pm

PBS NEWSHOUR

8pm

TURNING THE TIDE: A STORY OF HELL, HEALING AND HOPE This new 30-minute WYES documentary chronicles the sex trafficking trade in Louisiana and the growing army that has been formed to fight it. The film features trafficking survivors, Louisiana First Lady Donna Edwards, law enforcement officers and a group of nuns who run a secret healing center. Following the program, guests from law enforcement, education and healthcare discuss how Louisiana can better respond to the crisis of human trafficking. Karen Swensen hosts.

9pm

REPAIRING THE WORLD: STORIES FROM THE TREE OF LIFE documents Pittsburgh’s powerful community response to hate in the aftermath of the deadliest antisemitic attack in U.S. history.

10:30pm

POV “Aurora’s Sunrise”

24 TUESDAY

6pm

PBS NEWSHOUR

7pm

FINDING YOUR ROOTS “And Still I Rise”

8pm

NATIVE AMERICAN, SEASON 2 “New Worlds” (Pt. 1/4) Smashing stereotypes, it follows the brilliant engineers, bold politicians, and cutting-edge artists who draw upon Native tradition to build a better 21st century. In the first episode, learn how Native innovators are leading a revolution in music, building, and space exploration.

9pm

BRING HER HOME Three Indigenous women work to honor their relatives who are missing or have been murdered.

10pm

JOURNEY THROUGH BREAST CANCER highlights the fundamental importance of communication between patients, family members, and medical teams when managing cancer.

11pm

7pm

NATURE “Spy in the Ocean” ‘Deep Thinkers’ (Pt. 1/4) This four-part miniseries employs animatronic spy cameras disguised as marine animals to secretly record behavior in the wild. In the first episode, spy creatures reveal an ocean full of startling ways of thinking, including large-brained whales, smart octopi, diving monkeys, creative fish and other intelligent animals. Pictured: Spy Crab swimming amongst fish in Indonesia. Photo Credit: Simon Enderby / © John Downer Productions

8pm

NOVA “Ancient Earth: Inferno (Pt. 4/5) How did life bounce back after a cataclysmic extinction wiped out some 90% of all species?

9pm

SECRETS OF THE DEAD “Eiffel’s Race to the Top”

10pm

TURNING THE TIDE: A STORY OF HELL, HEALING AND HOPE chronicles the sex trafficking trade in Louisiana and the growing army that has been formed to fight it.

11pm AMANPOUR AND COMPANY

26 THURSDAY

6pm PBS NEWSHOUR

7pm

STEPPIN’ OUT

7:30pm

BRITISH ANTIQUES ROADSHOW

8pm

AGATHA CHRISTIE’S MARPLE, SEASON 3

“Towards Zero” (Pt. 3/4)

9:30pm

AGATHA CHRISTIE’S POIROT “The Adventure of the Clapham Cook” (Pt. 1/10)

10:30pm

CALL THE MIDWIFE, SEASON 10 (Pt. 5/8)

11:30pm

AMANPOUR AND COMPANY

7pm

INFORMED SOURCES

7:30pm

LOUISIANA: THE STATE WE’RE IN

8pm

WASHINGTON WEEK WITH THE ATLANTIC

29 SUNDAY

4pm

ALL CREATURES GREAT AND SMALL: CHRISTMAS IN THE DALES

5:30pm

THE NEW DIVAS: LIVE IN VIENNA

7pm

HOTEL PORTOFINO, SEASON 2 “Comings Together” (Pt. 3/6) Cecil becomes embroiled with gangsters and emotions between Lucian and Constance come to a head.

8pm

MASTERPIECE “World on Fire, Season 2” (Pt. 3/6) As Stan and Rajib make a hasty retreat across the desert, Marga reasserts her commitment to the Fuhrer. Meanwhile, David is in peril in the skies over France.

8:30pm

WALL $TREET WRAP-UP WITH ANDRÉ LABORDE looks at the past week’s market and brings local and national investment professionals to you. Have a question for André? Email andre@benacapital.com.

9pm

GREAT PERFORMANCES “New York City Ballet in Madrid” The New York City Ballet performs at Madrid’s Teatro Real; works include “Serenade” and “Square Dance” by George Balanchine and “The Times Are Racing” by choreographer Justin Peck.

10:30pm STEPPIN’ OUT 11pm AMANPOUR AND COMPANY

28 SATURDAY

5pm

WALTER ANDERSON: THE EXTRAORDINARY ART AND LIFE OF THE ISLANDER highlights the prolific and reclusive Mississippi Gulf Coast watercolorist Walter Inglis Anderson.

6pm

THE LAWRENCE WELK SHOW “Halloween Party”

7pm

ANTIQUES ROADSHOW “Celebrating Black Americana”

8pm

FINDING YOUR ROOTS “And Still I Rise”

9pm

BASEBALL “Home” (Pt. 9/9)

11:30pm

AUSTIN CITY LIMITS “Margo Price/Molly Tuttle”

9pm

MASTERPIECE “Annika, Season 2”

(Pt. 3/6) Annika reflects on Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde as she and the team investigate a Scottish millionaire found dead in his own shark tank.

Photo Credit: © Black Camel Pictures & All3Media International

10pm

LITTLE BIRD “The Land That Takes You” (Pt. 3/6)

11pm

ASTRID, SEASON 2 “Fermata (Pt. 4/8) In French with English subtitles.

30 MONDAY

6pm PBS NEWSHOUR

7pm

ANTIQUES ROADSHOW “Thrills & Chills”

9pm

TURNING THE TIDE: A STORY OF HELL, HEALING AND HOPE chronicles the sex trafficking trade in Louisiana and special interview with Louisiana First Lady Donna Edwards. Following the program, guests from law enforcement, education and healthcare discuss how Louisiana can better respond to the crisis of human trafficking. Karen Swensen hosts.

10pm

POV “Fire Through Dry Grass”

11:30pm

AMANPOUR AND COMPANY

31 TUESDAY

6pm

PBS NEWSHOUR

7pm

FINDING YOUR ROOTS “Anchormen”

8pm

NATIVE AMERICAN, SEASON 2 “Warrior Spirit” (Pt. 2/4)

HIGHLIGHT

8pm

AMERICAN EXPERIENCE “The War on Disco” Explore the cultural movement that gave rise to disco and the backlash that tried to destroy it. Pictured: John Travolta in the 1977 film Saturday Night Fever. Photo Credit: Alamy

HIGHLIGHT

9pm

MORGUS PRESENTS: THE HOUSE ON HAUNTED HILL This Halloween, WYES is bringing back local icon Morgus the Magnificent, just as he appeared for decades on local TV -- in between segments of a horror movie. You'll see Dr. Morgus and his assistants Chopsley and Eric create an interdimensional machine that allows Morgus to communicate and join the supernatural world of ghosts. In between vintage Morgus segments from the 1980s is "The House on Haunted Hill," a 1959 film starring Vincent Price.

11pm

FRONTLINE

Lagniappe

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POIROT/MARPLE SERIES

Jimmy Buffett and the Cheeseburger

In the town of Gustavia on the French Caribbean island of St. Barts, there is a popular pub-grub dive bar called Le Select. Founded in 1949 by a local named Marius Stakelburough, he wanted something to do on the island at night since there was not yet electricity. Opening a bar seemed like a good diversion. The bar that he and friends created is famous as St. Bart’s oldest.

That, however, is not what the place is most famous for. Yellowed newspaper clippings on the wall tell about a former burger flipper who had worked there as a young man and who had since risen to prominence in the states. His name

was Jimmy Buffett.

Buffett would maintain contact with Le Select. No American singer would be more identified with the Caribbean than him.

Stakelburough and the Le Select regulars were proud of their association with Buffett who, when in town, could often be seen outdoors sitting under his favorite tree which he described as “his office.” On at least three occasions he even staged a free concert to celebrate a Le Select anniversary. But what really caused excitement was in 1978 when Buffett recorded a song called “Cheeseburger in Paradise.” It was as cleverly written as it was upbeat, beginning with the

memorable line:

Tried to amend my carnivorous habit

Made it nearly 70 days

Losing weight without speed, eating sunflower seeds

Drinking lots of carrot juice and soaking up rays.

That song was influenced by an actual mishap when a boat he was sailing in was damaged. He and the crew survived off of only canned food and peanut butter. Eventually the craft made it to a larger island where there was a burger joint. He relished a cheeseburger, (presumably one served with relish).

As the song became more popular so did the cheeseburger in every beach bar in the world. However, the question remained, what was the island that Buffett was singing about. “Le Select” certainly had the right to claim to be the bar of origin. Afterall no other burger joint where coconut trees sway to the sea’s breeze was visited more often by Buffett.

Although St. Barts was not the island of his recovery, Buffett reportedly allowed Stakelbourough to use the Cheeseburger slogan in return for an open tab for all his future visits. The deal was done.

I have had my own theory of the place he was singing about, and it had nothing to do with recovery on the sea but arrival on a neutral ground. And obviously it isn’t in the Caribbean.

Buffett was a big fan of New Orleans. He once told of visiting

a girlfriend at Tulane and getting there on a streetcar. One of his favorite stops in the neighborhood was the Camellia Grill noted for, among many items, its burgers.

Uptown with its palm trees and canopies of oaks can be someone’s vision of paradise. So, couldn›t it be that the place he was talking about was the Camellia Grill? It made sense to me.

In 2017 New Orleans magazine’s Persona section, written by editor Ashley McLellan, interviewed Buffett on the occasion of the opening of a biographical musical called, “Escape to Margaritaville.” Among the questions Buffett was asked was if New Orleans and the Camellia Grill were what inspired the song.

“I love the Camelia Grill cheeseburger,” Buffett answered, “but no, it is not accurate. The inspiration came down in the British Virgin Islands at the end of a not so glamorous sailing passage, and we found a waterfront bar with cheeseburgers.”

Subsequently the landing has been identified as the Virgin Island of Tortola and the village of Roadtown.

Yet, New Orleans deserves credit. If it was not the location of the burger in the song, it is a paradise with a burger place that Jimmy Buffett himself said he loved.

It remains an ideal place though hardly for shunning “carnivorous ways.”