New Orleans Magazine October 2014

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OCTOBER 2014

Madisonville Lighthouse

myneworleans.com

$4.95

” ts ouls S resenof S p or YE oct W :D eelos “S




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OCTOBER 2014 / VOLUME 48 / NUMBER 10 Editor-in-Chief Errol Laborde Managing Editor Morgan Packard Art Director Tiffani Reding Amedeo Contributing Editor Liz Scott Monaghan Food Edit­or Dale Curry Dining Edit­or Jay Forman Wine and Spirits Edit­or Tim McNally Restaurant Reporter Robert Peyton Home Editor Bonnie Warren web Editor Kelly Massicot Staff Writer Melanie Warner Spencer

SALES MANAGER Kate Sanders Senior Account Executive Jonée Daigle Ferrand Account Executives Sarah Daigle, Lauren Lavelle, Lisa Picone traffic manager Erin Duhe Production Manager Staci McCarty Production Designers Monique DiPietro, Antoine Passelac, Ali Sullivan Chief Executive Officer Todd Matherne President Alan Campell Executive VICE PRESIDENT Errol Laborde Vice President of Sales Colleen Monaghan DIRECTOR OF MARKETING AND EVENTS Cheryl Lemonie Distribution Manager John Holzer Administrative Assistant Denise Dean SUBSCRIPTIONS Sara Kelemencky WYES DIAL 12 STAFF (504) 486-5511 Executive Editor Beth Arroyo Utterback Managing Editor Aislinn Hinyup Associate Editor Robin Cooper Art Director Jenny Hronek

NEW ORLEANS MAGAZINE Printed in USA A Publication of Renaissance Publishing 110 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Suite 123 Metairie, LA 70005 Subscriptions: (504) 830-7231

MyNewOrleans.com

New Orleans Magazine (ISSN 0897 8174) is published monthly by Renaissance Publishing, LLC., 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005; (504) 828-1380. Subscription rates: one year $19.95; Mexico, South America and Canada $48; Europe, Asia and Australia $75. An associate subscription to New Orleans Magazine is available by a contribution of $40 or more to WYES-TV/Channel 12, $10.00 of which is used to offset the cost of publication. Also available electronically, on CD-ROM and on-line. Periodicals postage paid at Metairie, LA, and additional entry offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to New Orleans Magazine, 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005. Copyright 2014 New Orleans Magazine. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the consent of the publisher. The trademark New Orleans and New Orleans Magazine are registered. New Orleans Magazine is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts, photos and artwork even if accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. The opinions expressed in New Orleans Magazine are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the view of the magazine managers or owners.

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contents

78 FEATURES

IN EVERY ISSUE

ON THE COVER

58 Navigating the Northshore

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The Tchefuncte: A beacon of history and ecology By Faith Dawson

14 letters

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Family Legacies

18 speaking out Editorial, plus a Mike Luckovich cartoon

This month we’re taking some time to appreciate the beautiful flora and fauna of the Tchefuncte River – and, of course, the lighthouse. Learn more about this “metaphor for change” starting on pg. 58.

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Multiple generation businesses By Judi Russell

ON A ROLL Sushi Fest displays raw talent By Kimberley Singletary

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INSIDE “Northshore Remembered: Bayou Liberty”

JULIA STREET Questions and answers about our city

151 Try This “Stepping Into History” 152 STREETCAR “Helga of Prague”

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Photographed by John Snell



contents

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THE BEAT

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LOCAL COLOR

THE MENU

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MARQUEE

Entertainment calendar

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PERSONA

“Luke Winslow-King: Musician on a journey”

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Biz

“Space Race: Office rents could put businesses in a moving mood”

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IN TUNE

music

84 restaurant insider

“Newly Found Places ”

Read & Spin

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Food

A look at the latest albums and books

CAST OF CHARACTERS

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“Peter Finney: Sports, the daily beat”

MODINE’S NEW ORLEANS

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News and Updates in New Orleans

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Education

“Yearning for Learning: The emergence of knowledge”

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HEALTH

“Pharmaceutical Lagniappe”

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CHRONICLES

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HEALTHBEAT

“Lab Coats Rock: New Orleans women take science seriously”

The latest news in health from New Orleans and beyond

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HOME

“Greek Revival Revived:” Deborah Duplechin and Dr. Corky Harkins Jr.’s grand condo

“Gastropub Redux”

“Mardi Gras Indians celebrate themselves”

newsbeats

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table talk

“Voodoo In the Air”

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“Green Day: Cooking from the garden”

LAST CALL The Super Bowl

DINING GUIDE

“Strap Them In”

Joie d’Eve “Last of the Firsts”

DIAL 12 D1 WYES tackles the topic of the early November elections for the Orleans Parish Criminal District Court judge seats on

Thurs., Oct. 2 at 7 p.m. on WYES-TV/Channel 12. Then on Sat., Oct. 4 at 7 p.m., don’t miss the true story of Blessed Francis Xavier Seelos in the one-man play by actor and playwright, Casey Groves. Visit wyes.org for all WYES program and event details.

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inside

Bayou Liberty

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ayou Liberty was the Northshore stream of my growing up. While the Tchefuncte River was bigger and better known, little Bayou Liberty, which ran near Slidell and entered into Lake Pontchartrain, held a special place for one niche of the population: adolescent boys, particularly those who belonged to the Boy Scouts. Camp Salmon, a regional gathering spot for area scouts was on Bayou Liberty. It was there that I first experienced riding in a canoe. Two of us boarded the craft, which was pushed into the water where it sank maybe five feet out. Sure the boats were leaky, but at least the water was shallow. The incident gave credence to a campfire song, “The Deacon Went Down,” in which one of the refrains was: Well you can’t get to heave in a Camp Salmon Boat Because the doggone things Don’t even float. (Another refrain poked fun at the scoutmaster who, let’s say his name was Jones: Well you can’t get to heaven in Mr. Jones’ shoes Because the doggone things Are filled with booze.) Those songs no longer echo off the Bayou Liberty waterfront because the camp eventually moved to a new location in Mississippi and its site was converted into pricey waterfront property. When I last rode on Bayou Liberty it was on a party barge of one of the residents – and his boat did float. A ride now includes pointing to the waterfront backyards

of the very-wealthy’s summer homes. Scant mention is made of where Camp Salmon once was, thought the real historic sport is nearby. It was on Bayou Liberty that a boat chase scene was filmed for the 1973 James Bond film, Live and Let Die. Fortunately for Roger Moore, his boat didn’t sink either, though we cannot rule out James Bond’s shoes being filled with booze. As a senior scout, I experienced a rite of passage one night in the Camp Salmon thickets along Bayou Liberty. Several of us were being initiated into an honor camping organization called the Order of the Arrow. After dark we were escorted into the woods and each assigned a place where we had to camp out alone that night. I don’t recall if I smuggled a small radio, though it would have been like me to have done so. I do recall that the moon cooperated and it wasn’t especially dark that night, though the sensory experience that truly warded off the fright is that I must have been located near Highway 433. I could hear cars chugging by with their radios blaring throughout the evening. I survived untouched by beast or Hun. For our efforts we received cool looking white sashes with the image of a red arrow down the center. Curiously, I never wore the sash again. As happens to teenage boys, their situations begin to change. Soon we would all be sailing in new directions.



letters

Establishing Medical Ethics Re: “Medical Ethics LouisianaStyle,” Health column by Brobson Lutz M.D. August 2014 issue. As director of the Foundations of Medicine course for Tulane University School of Medicine, I take exception to Dr. Brobson Lutz’s column “Medical Ethics Louisiana-Style” (August 2014), which did not present a full and accurate portrait of the ethics training programs at Tulane. We believe that a strong foundation in ethics is essential for medical students to become compassionate physicians. Tulane benefits considerably from an endowed chair in ethics, and we offer many opportunities within our curriculum for students to learn medical ethics. Within the first two years of pre-clinical coursework, students get 24 hours devoted to ethics. The vast majority – 19 hours – is exactly the discussion-based discourse Lutz prescribes in his column. In that first year, we cover principles of medical professional ethics, research ethics, issues of patient consent, genetics, healthcare equity, medical error disclosure and end of life care, among others. In the second year, the course focuses on cultural and ethical issues and covers topics such as LGBT health, implicit biases and their effect on the delivery of care. While many institutions have ethics curricula that discuss issues in an abstract fashion, our students participate in simulated patient scenarios that allow them to confront real-time situations in a safe environment to develop the skills needed to be ethical, humanistic physicians. These practice simulations cover providing informed consent prior to a procedure, disclosing a medical error, investigating a patient’s wishes on death and dying and probing the biopsychosocial issues affecting marginalized populations. Our training doesn’t end after the second year of medical school. We host visiting and endowed lectureships on aspects of medical ethics, and this fall, will launch a new ethics seminar series for third- and fourth-year medical students. Tulane is also unique in that we require student representatives to serve on our academic medical center’s ethics committee, which meets monthly to any address issues that arise in patient care. Ethics programing is consistently one of the highest-rated components of our curriculum. This is due to the dedication of our faculty in engaging our students, the diversity of the students themselves, and by our commitment to actively include medical ethics training in our patient care. Chayan Chakraborti, MD, FACP, FHM Associate Professor of Clinical Medicine Director, Foundations in Medicine Course Director, Student Career Services Tulane University School of Medicine

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Dear Editor, I read with interest Dr. Brobson Lutz’s article entitled “Medical Ethics Louisiana-Style” in the August 2014 issue of the New Orleans Magazine, and I wish to contribute some additional information. In 1970 my husband, Prim B. Smith Jr., BBA, JD, M.Div., was invited by Dr. James A. Knight to assist him with his medical ethics course at Tulane Medical School. Tulane also provided him with an office for counseling on Fridays. At the time he was Episcopal chaplain to Tulane University and pastor of the Chapel of the Holy Spirit across from the Newcomb campus. In 1972 when Dr. Knight left Tulane to become the first Dean of the newly formed Texas A&M University College of Medicine, Smith invited Dr. Charles B. Moore, an Ochsner cardiologist and Episcopal priest, to assist him in teaching the Tulane medical ethics course. In ’83 Smith spent four months as a full-time Visiting Scholar at the Kennedy Institute for the Study of Bioethics at Georgetown University. In ’84 he obtained permission from his bishop to seek a two-year grant to begin a full-time ministry at the Tulane Medical School. Trinity Church in New Orleans provided him with a grant. In ’85 he became a full-time chaplain at the Downtown campus and received an appointment to the Tulane School of Public Health (HSM) to teach ethics. When Father Smith retired to spend his time funding the Episcopal Ministry to the Medical School, the Rev. Robin Whitlock took over his duties as chaplain. He was succeeded by the Rev. Dr. Donald Owens, who as your article points out not only taught medical ethics and was a counselor, but also assumed other duties at the medical school and became the holder of the James A. Knight M.D. Chair of Humanities and Ethics in Medicine. I hope that when Father Don retires in 2015, someone will continue his excellent work. The Reverend Prim Smith Essay Award was established in 2013 to be used to support an annual award to recognize senior medical students who author an essay of note on the topic of medical ethics. It is presented during the Ivy Day ceremonies associated with the Tulane University School of Medicine’s graduation celebration. Charlene M. Smith New Orleans

Ed. Reply:

We acknowledge the pioneering role that Tulane Medical School has performed in advancing medical ethics. The thrust of the article was to hope that such efforts are not diminished. We are encouraged by the responses.

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on the web Social Media Update Are you one of the halfbillion people on Facebook? Then make sure you’re one of the more than 10,000 who like our Facebook page! New Orleans Magazine, along with our sister publications, is active on Facebook, giving our followers all of the important information from food to business to festivals and more.

we’re jazzed that... Jazz in the Park has returned for its sixth season. Attend free concerts featuring city favorites such as Kermit Ruffins, Rebirth Brass Band, Los Hombres Calientes and more. Experience this great music every Thursday until Oct. 30 from 4-8 p.m. in Armstrong Park. See this and more events happening around New Orleans on our calendar at MyNewOrleans.com.

Biz New Orleans Biz New Orleans magazine has launched this month as New Orleans’ only business magazine. Along with our new monthly publication, Biz has launched BizNewOrleans.com. The new website gives viewers all of the latest in business news from around New Orleans. Visit BizNewOrleans. com for all of your daily business news and events.

facebook.com/NewOrleansMagazine | twitter.com/neworleansmag | pinterest.com/neworleansmag


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SPEAKING OUT

Smooth and Kingly A new season for the Pelicans

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ne of the biggest plays in the NBA last season didn’t make the ESPN highlight reel, nevertheless it was significant. When the announcement was made that the New Orleans Arena would henceforth be called the Smoothie King Center, it added the slam dunk to a maneuver in which New Orleans would not only have a locally owned NBA fran-

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chise, but would also play in a building named after a locally owned company. Few cities can make such a claim. Even the mighty Los Angeles Lakers play in an arena (The Staples Center) named after a Massachusetts company, and share it with another NBA team, the Clippers, and a hockey team. Tom Benson, of course, is the staple that holds pro sports together in New

Orleans. As the owner of the Saints he has been to the top of the mountain in NFL glory, now, as the new NBA season begins, we think it’s time for him to experience what a basketball championship feels like. For the last several years each season has been a transition. Last season the franchise took over the Pelicans name and adopted new colors. The season before,

Benson had just purchased the teams and was beginning the transition from the Hornets. Meanwhile, promising stars such as Anthony Davis have been preparing for that breakout year. We think the time has come. We are not sure how champagne and smoothies taste together, but we’re willing to try. We are just hoping for the right occasion. n

AN ORIGINAL ©MIKE LUCKOVICH CARTOON FOR NEW ORLEANS MAGAZINE


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JULIA STREET /

WITH POYDRAS THE PARROT

TH E PUR S UIT TO AN S W E R E T E RNA L Q U E S TION S

Dear Julia, Looking through a box of clippings given to me sometime in the past, I found the two pictured items regarding the Morning Star and the Como Club. If the Morning Star was a newspaper, I wonder what “school with votes” means. Perhaps you can provide information on one or both. Marion J. Porter Metairie While I was unable to find a definitive explanation of “school with votes,” the pairing of those two mementos is intriguing. Not only are the two items unrelated to each other but they are associated with opposite ends of the

moral spectrum. The Morning Star subscription slip most likely dates from about 1915, while the card for the Como Club is most likely from the ’30s or ’40s. The Morning Star was a local Roman Catholic newspaper that once served as the official journal of the Archdiocese of New Orleans. As The Morning Star and Catholic Messenger, it began publication in 1868. In 1882, Rev. Peter M. L. Massardier, then pastor of St. Theresa of Avila Church, purchased and shortened the paper’s name. From 1882 until it ceased publication in 1930, the publication was known as The Morning Star. In the mid-1910s, Morning Star offices were

located at suite 205 in the Metropolitan Building. I am not sure what the paper meant by including on its subscription form a blank for “school with votes” but I suspect it may have referred to a fundraising campaign benefitting local Roman Catholic schools. Throughout the 1930s and ’40s, the Como Club was best

known as a notorious illegal gambling establishment. In other words, it was a bookie joint. The Como Club was located at 413 St. Charles St., in the section of St. Charles north of Lee Circle. From the early ’30s through the early ’40s, local law enforcement made numerous attempts to shut it down.

Win a Court of Two Sisters Jazz Brunch

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Here is a chance to eat, drink and listen to music, and have your curiosity satiated all at once. Send Julia a question. If we use it, you’ll be eligible for a monthly drawing for one of two Jazz Brunch gift certificates for two at The Court of Two Sisters in the Vieux Carré. To take part, send your question to: Julia Street, c/o New Orleans Magazine, 110 Veterans Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005 or email: Errol@MyNewOrleans.com. This month’s winners are: Marion J. Porter, Metairie; and Nick Compagno, Kenner.

OCTOBER 2014 / myneworleans.com

artwork Courtesy of Marion J. Porter


Dear Julia, I would like to know the history on Thunderbird Beach in Greenwell Springs, Louisiana. Back in 1964 and ’65, our CYO school group took summer day trips to the area. There was a man-made beach and lake with Artesian well water, a long water slide and paddle boats. I remember a large pavilion with vending machines, and a jukebox and listening to “My Girl” by the Temptations. I found no information on the Internet. Please help. Thanks, Nick Compagno Kenner Thunderbird Beach first opened for business May 30, 1959. Located on Louisiana Highway 1019, off Greenwell Springs Road, the park was in its heyday through the ’60s and ’70s. Lake Thunderbird, a 25-acre horseshoe-shaped man-made lake stocked with bass, sac-alait and blue channel catfish, was the main attraction. Water for the lake and an adjacent swimming pool came from the park’s own artesian well. Amenities at the surrounding 60-acre park included a pavilion, swimming pool with a 70-foot-high water slide, bath house, campsites and barbecue pits. There was also an amusement area featuring a merry-go-round, Tilt-a-Whirl™ and a Ferris wheel. A miniature train, the “Thunderbird Special,” a replica of a Missouri Pacific diesel locomotive, provided a scenic ride around Lake Thunderbird. For those who preferred to travel on, rather than around the lake, peddle boats were available. Dear Julia, Usually you answer questions in regard to New Orleans and not the neighboring suburbs, but if you don’t want to travel,

maybe Poydras wouldn’t mind going into Metairie to help us with this question? In the 1970s, GEX was located on Veterans Highway near David Drive. The building itself is still there and has been subdivided. I remember as a teenager going there with my mom, and you had to be a member of GEX to enter. What did the initials stand for, how did someone become a member, were there other locations around the United States and why did it close? It it’s too hot for Poydras to fly, I understand. Thanks, Barrie Boutall Metairie Barrie, we answer questions as we get them. We get more questions about New Orleans, probably because the city is older and has more history to ask about. Poydras does fly to Metairie sometimes, looking for where Maison Blanche and Katz & Besthoff have relocated, but he avoids Kenner ever since the time he was brushed by a landing 737. Homeland Security investigated and added insult by taking away his pint of rum. GEX was an acronym for Government Employees Exchange. The GEX store was a members-only department store open to members of the military and some labor unions. Located at 7000 Veterans Highway at David Drive, the local GEX was one of many such chain stores that operated throughout the country during the 1960s and ’70s. The chain was an arm of National Bellas Hess, a major mail order retailer based in Kansas City, Missouri. GEX stores faded into obscurity when their corporate parent failed in the mid-’70s. In ’76, the Metairie GEX location became a Robert Hall Village store. n

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the beat MARQUEE

PERSONA

BIZ

NEWSBEATS

EDUCATION

HEALTH

CRIME FIGHTING

“Luke Winslow-King and his wife and musical partner, Esther Rose, evoke a throwback Americana music vibe with their sharp fashion and hairstyles that harken back to the past.”

PERSONA pg. 26

greg miles PHOTOGRAPH


THE BEAT / MARQUEE

OUR TOP PICKS FOR OCTOBER EVENTS BY LAUREN LABORDE

The Month for Music

Culture Vulture

Hollywood South

September is a sleepy month for many music clubs (sleepy for a city that has music around the clock, at least); when October comes, it’s hard to make a schedule for seeing live music that doesn’t leave one sleep deprived. Highlights for an October filled with concerts, many from national touring bands, include: the much anticipated rescheduled Paul McCartney show Oct. 11 at the Smoothie King Center; indie god Beck on Oct. 5 at House of Blues; indie goddess Jenny Lewis at the Civic on Oct. 7; the Willy Wonkafied pop star Katy Perry on Oct. 8 at the Smoothie King Center; guitar virtuoso St. Vincent at House of Blues on Oct. 9; multifaceted vocalist Meshell Ndegeocello on Oct. 10 at the Contemporary Arts Center; and finally, the Voodoo Experience in City Park Halloween weekend. Check the locations’ websites for more information.

Get a mega dose of the fine arts in October, where many of the city’s grande dame institutions present their cultural seasons. The New Orleans Ballet Association presents its second show of the season, the Connecticutbased dancer-illusionist company MOMIX’s “Alchemia;” the New Orleans Opera Association opens its season with the beloved Carmen; and the Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra has several concerts, including the “Beethoven and Blue Jeans Series.” Information, NOBADance.com, NewOrleansOpera. org and LPOMusic.com

Celebrate the explosion in filmmaking in New Orleans and Louisiana at the New Orleans Film Festival, featuring not only locally made films, but also films from around the country and the world you may not see on a local screen otherwise. A busy weekand-a-half of hot-ticket film screenings, talk-backs and parties at locations around town, this year’s festival opens with Kevin Costner’s locally shot Black and White and closes with Joe Lauro’s New Orleans music documentary, The Big Beat. Information, NewOrleansFilmSociety.org

CALENDAR Oct. 4 Art for Art’s Sake, Warehouse Arts District and Magazine Street. Information, NewOrleansArtsDistrict.com

Oct. 10-11, 17-18 & 24-25 Oktoberfest, Rivertown. Information, OktoberfestNola.com

Oct. 4-Nov. 2 Southern Rep presents Broomstick, Ashé Cultural Arts Center. Information, SouthernRep.com

Oct. 10-12 Louisiana Seafood Festival, City Park Festival Grounds. Information, LouisianaSeafoodFestival.com

Oct. 7-12 Broadway in New Orleans presents Chicago, Saenger Theatre. Information, SaengerNola.com

Oct. 11 Japan Fest, New Orleans Museum of Art. Information, NOMA.org

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Oct. 12 Celebracion Latina, Audubon Zoo. Information, AudubonInstitute.org

paul mccartney photo: MPL Mary McCartney, ballet photo: Max Pucciariello, film fest photo: cheryl gerber


SPOTLIGHT

“Notes for Now,” opens on Oct. 25 and runs until Jan. 25, 2015, providing enough time to check out the 61 featured artists from all over the world at spaces around town. While exciting, this art event is a lot to take in. We talked to Ylva Rouse, Deputy Director for Curatorial Affairs for Prospect New Orleans, on how to navigate this major art biennial. The title of the biennial is “Notes for Now.” What does that theme mean to you? It

Prospect.3 An interview with Ylva Rouse,   Deputy Director for Curatorial Affairs for Prospect New Orleans

P

rospect.1, which opened in 2007, was an art extravaganza the likes of which New Orleans had never seen. Art invaded any kind of space imaginable – including a former furniture store and a repurposed FEMA trailer, as well as more traditional spots – with the theme of New Orleans’ post-Katrina recovery (or lack thereof) at the forefront of many of the works. Prospect.2 in 2011 was a smaller production by comparison but still felt like an exciting art scavenger hunt. Prospect.3, themed

speaks to the fact that it’s an exhibition of contemporary artists, both young and not so young, that through their artwork address current issues that preoccupy all of us at this time: globalism, immigration, race, ecology, urbanism, beauty and our place in this world and the universe as human beings.

What are some of the highlights of P3? “Basquiat and

the Bayou,” an exhibition exploring the presence of the Mississippi Delta and its cultures in the work of Basquiat, will definitely be one of the highlights. Tavares Strachan’s neon light sculpture on a barge on the Mississippi – bringing people to the river that makes our city what it is. I would also highlight our Artistic Director Franklin

Sirmans’ intention to ground contemporary arts practices in the history of modern art, with the presence of Paul Gauguin and Tarsila do Amaral, among others, at the New Orleans Museum of Art.

Prospects made use of unique venues and mediums of exhibitions. What are some of the more interesting presentations this time around? As

in the past, the exhibition will unfold throughout the city, bringing our visitors into the different neighborhoods — the Warehouse Arts District, Tremé, St. Claude, Gentilly, Bywater, the universities. How do you recommend people best experience the event? Use our map and rec-

ommended routes in the P.3 brochure; include the wide range of exhibits by local artists that are participating in our ancillary P.3+ program that are along the route; and sign up for the P.3 Bike Tours, organized in partnership with BikeEasy. And always check in to our Visitor Center, located at the Contemporary Arts Center, and our website for updates on our multiple programs scheduled through the run of the exhibit. For more information on Prospect.3, visit ProspectNewOrleans.org. n

Oct. 17-18 & 24-25 Boo at the Zoo, Audubon Zoo. Information, AudubonInstitute.org

Oct. 18 O What a Night! Gala, Ogden Museum of Southern Art. Information, OgdenMuseum.org

Oct. 17-19 Crescent City Blues & BBQ Festival, Lafayette Square Park. Information, JazzAndHeritage.org/Blues-Fest

Oct. 24 Alton Brown Live! The Edible Inevitable Tour, Saenger Theatre. Information, SaengerNOLA.com

Oct. 18 Anba Dlo Halloween Festival, New Orleans Healing Center. Information, AnbaDloFestival.org

Oct. 28 New Orleans Pelicans versus Orlando Magic, Smoothie King Center. Information, NBA.com/Pelicans

Craig Mulcahy PHOTOGRAPH


THE BEAT / PERSONA

Luke Winslow-King Musician on a journey BY LAUREN LABORDE

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he first time I saw Luke Winslow-King live, I swear I was watching the performance on scratchy sepia-toned film and not right in front of me in the year 2013. Winslow-King and his wife and musical partner, Esther Rose, evoke that vibe with their throwback Americana music and sharp fashion and hairstyles that harken back to the past – not in a gimmicky way, though. Winslow-King has fans around the globe, but he’s done plenty of time closer to home in tiny Frenchmen Street clubs that don’t always have the most decorous audiences. His fourth album, Everlasting Arms, came out at the end of September, and when I called him he and Esther were visiting family in Michigan before returning to New Orleans to release the album.

What was inspiring you and going on in your life that informed the creation of the latest album? Wow. I guess there’s a lot of travel in it, and also getting married in December had a lot

to do with the inspiration for the album. Just having a life event like that can kind of change your perspective. But also it’s a lot of traveling in the songs, and a lot of love and family, and I’m definitely always inspired by nature and the many people we met along the way. With this

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album we tried to really go a different direction musically, expand more upon the genres we attempt and have a little broader scope as far as the music we cover; and also with the production and sound of the album. I think we have a broader spectrum of sound. You married your musical partner, Esther. Does navigating your relationship as both creative and romantic partners come naturally to you, or do you have to compartmentalize things? It’s definitely not without

its challenges, but it’s an incredible

greg miles PHOTOGRAPH


NAME: Luke Winslow-King Age: 31 Born/Raised: Cadillac, Michigan Resides: Old Arabi Education: Interlochen Art Academy, University of New Orleans Favorite movie: Dead Man Favorite TV show: “The Daily Show” Favorite band/musician: Abner Jay Favorite hobby: Trout fishing Favorite New Orleans restaurant: Lüke’s 50-cent oyster happy hour Favorite book: Trout Fishing in America by Richard Brautigan Favorite vacation spot: Puglia, Italy blessing to be able to be on the road and travel with your wife. There’s so much traveling that we’re doing right now that I don’t think we’d be able to do without the other one present. It just seems like when your whole life and family can go on the road, there’s so much more that you’re capable of. We were on the road from Jazz Fest ’til last week, pretty much, we went to nine or 10 countries and went all over Europe and all over the states, and if Esther was home waiting for me I don’t think I would have as much travel stamina. Both you and Esther have great style and fashion sense. Is that something you’ve always focused on, or is it something that’s developed from being a performer and being more conscious of how you dress? I’ve always

been interested in fashion and clothing. I don’t like it to be a focus of my show or career, but I always feel better when I’m dressed well. I have a passion for fashion but it’s not a focus of mine, whereas Esther is a fashion designer in her spare time. She’s actually

at a studio in Michigan sewing right now.

It seems from your aesthetic and the kind of music you play that you have a love for the past. Have you always been that way? I guess I’ve

always been into older music, but the vintage ragtime Americana thing really started to affect me around 2002 or ’03 when I started to really get into New Orleans culture while I was studying at UNO. I feel like the traditional Americana sound has kind of become a vocabulary; me and my band kind of speak with it very naturally at this point. I guess not like we’re forcing, trying to play old-timey music … all of my friends play in traditional jazz bands, Delta blues bands, it just seems like the natural language for us at this point. So when we’re writing new material, we have that as a base, this roots Americana sound is our base, but we don’t limit ourselves to that and we’re not purists. We just use that vocabulary to create new music. I feel like on this album we really liberated ourselves to like, use that traditional sound but also not be afraid to push in a new, modern direction. And the production of the album is the same. There’s a lot of old microphones and old techniques for recording, but also it’s very hi-fi and modern and has a really wide spectrum of sound like a more modern album would have. We’re always trying to strike that balance of ... this is our vocabulary, but we’re also living, breathing artists creating music right now. … We’re trying to push it in a new direction while always paying homage to our roots. n

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THE BEAT / BIZ

Space Race Office rents could put   businesses in a moving mood By Kathy Finn

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or owners of companies doing business in the local area, deciding where to locate their offices is relatively simple. The first big choice for those looking for top-quality space usually is whether to locate downtown or in Metairie. The factors that tend to influence that choice also are pretty basic. Many companies want to operate in the heart of the city, where they feel more a part of the general business activity that drives the local economy. Others believe their business will be better served by being in Metairie, where parking is less of an issue and employees who live in outlying areas may find it easier to get to and from work via Interstate 10 or the Lake Pontchartrain Causeway. What can complicate these choices is the disparity in rental rates between the two markets. Through much of the history of the area’s newest office buildings, most of which were built during the 1980s, the Metairie properties have commanded higher rates than downtown offices. A big reason is the ease of access and availability of free parking in the suburban market. Monthly per-square-foot leasing rates in Metairie have always run at least a few dollars higher than their counterparts downtown, where workers must foot hefty parking tabs. Another factor is the limited inventory of space in Metairie. Class A offices, as the most modern spaces are termed, are found in just three Jefferson Parish properties: Heritage Plaza, an 18-story building at 111 Veterans Memorial Blvd.; the Galleria, a 21-story tower off Interstate

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10 at Causeway Boulevard; and Lakeway Center, a threetower complex containing more than 1 million square feet at Lake Pontchartrain and Causeway Boulevard. Still another driver behind the price disparity is vacancy rates. Commercial real estate broker Robert Hand says the Metairie Class A office market was about 94 percent leased in July, when he did his latest analysis. Meanwhile, the downtown inventory – which is about five times larger than the suburban market – was only 88 percent full. Hand, who owns Louisiana Commercial Realty, says these factors have helped create one of the biggest price spreads between downtown and Metairie that the area has seen. Class A space in Metairie now averages $24 per square foot, more than 30 percent higher than the average downtown rate, he says. “This price difference is the biggest trend in the office market, and we’re starting to see some businesses move from Metairie to New Orleans,” he says. Joseph Daniel Fiedler illustration


Surplus space Research by commercial real estate broker Robert Hand shows that New Orleans has an inventory of 8.8 million square feet of Class A office space, and is about 88 percent occupied. The Metairie market has about 2 million square feet of Class A space and is about 94 percent occupied. With a lot of modern space available, tenants are moving out of older space, causing market rates to drop. Eventually, Hand says, more older office buildings may be converted to apartments or condominiums. Hand says businesses that are nearing the end of their current leasing contracts likely will be looking closely at the price differences as they decide whether to stay or go. A part of the Metairie market that may be particularly vulnerable is older office properties, termed Class B space, he says. Rental rates for some such space in Metairie is nearing the average $18 per-squarefoot price of Class A space in New Orleans, and Hand says that could give some office tenants reason to move. “Why would you lease older space when you get newer space for cheap?” he asks. The situation is unlikely to spark a stampede of office tenants toward downtown, but over time the dynamics could begin to narrow the price gap between the two markets. With plenty of space available in New Orleans, however, the trend could take a while to play out. Hand says about 1 million square feet of Class A office

space lies vacant in the city, and while “demand is out there,” it isn’t coming from people seeking big chunks of space. About half of the available space consists of full floors, he says. Hand recently brokered a deal for 56,000 square feet of space in the 1250 Poydras St. building, and he says it was the largest single chunk of Class A space available in the city. Before that, one of the last large deals done was GE Capital’s lease of space in the 201 St. Charles Ave. building, where it opened the GE Capital Technology Center. But most of the office demand these days is coming from businesses such as law firms and engineering companies that are relocating or expanding and need just 3,000 to 5,000 square feet. “It’s almost impossible to (broker) a full floor of class A office space right now” because the demand doesn’t exist, Hand says. The situation has produced something of a checkerboard effect in downtown buildings, in terms of occupancies. At the moment, Benson Tower – the building next to the Superdome that belongs to New Orleans Saints owner Tom Benson – is 97 percent occupied, Hand says. That tower got a big boost from a contract Benson signed with Louisiana to house a large number of the state’s local workers in the building. Meanwhile, other downtown Class A office buildings are running occupancies in the low 90s, 80s and even as low as 70 percent, he says. “The dilemma for people who own office buildings is to bring in a big company that has 200 employees that would take two to three floors,” Hand says. “Right now we’re not seeing that.” n

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THE BEAT / NEWSBEATS Carol Bebelle

News and Updates in New Orleans by Taylor Burley

Justice Center Recognized With Award The Committee for a Better New Orleans recently honored Carol Bebelle and the Justice and Accountability Center of Louisiana at the fifth annual Diana Lewis Citizen Participation Awards. Bebelle was selected for her exceptional work at the Ashé Cultural Center and throughout Central City, and for her community engagement in the revitalization of one of the city’s most historic districts. The Justice and Accountability Center was recognized for its work in bringing highly marginalized residents back into civic life and restoring people’s voting rights. Coleman Ridley, executive director of Forward New Orleans and the New Orleans Business Council, served as featured speaker. The invocation was given by former Loyola University President Father James Carter, and there was music by The Last Straws. The event was sponsored by the Committee for a Better New Orleans, Jones Walker and Peoples Health. CBNO has been the convener of the ongoing process to develop the New Orleans Citizen Participation Program, a formal structure to promote and sustain civic engagement mandated by the city charter and the Master Plan, which led to the adoption this year of the City Planning Commission’s Neighborhood Participation Plan. More information about the Citizen Participation Program can be found at nolacpp.wordpress.com.

Louis Prima and Family Create Long-Term Support for Jazz & Heritage Foundation

Louis Prima, one of New Orleans’ most renowned and beloved jazz musicians, will have a lasting impact on music

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education in New Orleans thanks to a new partnership with the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Foundation. The donation from the Gia Maione Prima Foundation will provide long-term financial support to the Jazz & Heritage Foundation’s music education programs, including music instruction and career development. “Louis Prima was and remains an icon of New Orleans – and American – music,” said Anthony J. Ruda, president of the board of directors of the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival and Foundation, Inc. “It is a wonderful honor to extend our relationship with him and his family in the service of our community.” “Throughout Louis’ life, he always believed in helping young people learn the joy of making music, and in supporting his fellow musicians,” said Anthony Sylvester, Managing Member of the Gia Maione Prima Foundation. “We are thrilled to partner with one of the country’s most important cultural institutions to provide jazz lessons to the youth of Louis’ home town, and to support those professionals who take the sound of New Orleans around the world.” The New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Foundation is currently finishing up the George and Joyce Wein Jazz & Heritage Center, a state-of-the-art education and community center on Rampart Street. When completed, the building will have seven classrooms, including dedicated rooms for piano and drum lessons, along with a 200-seat auditorium and digital media capabilities. The Jazz & Heritage Foundation will christen the Louis Prima and Gia Maione Prima

Brass Instrument Room at the facility during its grand opening in December.

LSU Health N.O. School of Nursing Awarded Grant to Improve Access

The LSU Health New Orleans School of Nursing was recently awarded a two-yearlong $700,000 Advanced Education Nursing Traineeship (AENT) grant, which will be directed by Scharalda Jeanfreau, DNS, FNP. This grant, which was awarded by the Health Resources and Services Administration of the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services, will increase access to advanced nursing education and patient care for disadvantaged, underserved and under-represented groups, including veterans. The AENT Program at LSU Health New Orleans will provide traineeship funding for up to 50 eligible full-time and part-time Primary Care Family Nurse Practitioner (PCFNP) students to cover a portion of the costs of tuition, fees, books and reasonable living expenses. Recipients of the funding support must commit to practice in health professional shortage areas or medically underserved communities for at least one year after graduation. The funds will be distributed twice per year among eligible applicants, providing preferential funding for those applicants meeting criteria of background, need and commitment. Student clinical experiences in the program include providing care for minority, disadvantaged, underserved and rural populations. To learn more about the grant program, visit lsuhsc.edu. n CHERYL GERBER PHOTOGRAPH


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THE BEAT / EDUCATION

Yearning for Learning The emergence of knowledge by Dawn Ruth Wilson

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once had a student who made a disparaging comment one day that set me thinking about education and educators, and how we, as constantly maturing individuals creating cultures and societies, really learn anything. He sat on the side of the room as far away from everyone as he could get, a common position for those who don’t really want to be in a school anyway. He silently fumed from the day class began until the day he departed, sometime in the middle of the semester. Grayish from the temples to the chin, he must have been a prematurely aging man because he seemed too young for his appearance. He had a thin, wiry, wild-haired Einstein style. One evening he complained that everything he’d ever learned he had had to teach himself. His general attitude seemed to be that instructors and schools are simply marketed storefronts and aren’t useful to anyone who really wants to be educated.

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I didn’t take his comment personally; the comment didn’t seem aimed at me, and in fact, I more or less agree with him. After all, it’s the learner who must filter information and accept or reject guidance and find a way to use classroom and life experience to his or her benefit, whether age 5 or 50. Learning takes some thought and a reasonable attempt at storage, which only the person receiving the information can do. A lecturer can deliver an eloquent discourse about the nature of the modern psyche in Joseph Conrad’s Heart of Darkness, but if the listener decides to take a holiday of the mind, then there’s not much that can be done about it. My Einstein-ish student showed no interest in Conrad’s often discussed phrase the “The horror! The horror!” – the dying words of his protagonist – but his question about the worthiness of formal schooling in general remains valid. I was never assigned Conrad’s novella about a good man’s journey into “darkness,” but I did take the time to consider his words when I read it on my own many years after graduating from college. The best learning is a personal experience, and though we need wise guides to keep us going in the right direction, at the end of the day we must follow our

Jason Raish illustration


own paths. Guidance to that path takes many forms, from lectures about the nature of plants given by studied botanists to conversations with home gardeners who never took a formal class. Two of the most respected American writers of the 20th century, William Faulkner and Ernest Hemingway, didn’t learn their craft or their insights in classrooms. Faulkner got much of his material setting on a bench listening to his neighbors in Oxford, Mississippi’s town square. Hemingway found his muse in arenas of life and death, from battlefields to bullrings. One of the most brilliant students I ever taught was a silent, chubby-cheeked young man, also out of the mainstream, who had been homeschooled by this mother and didn’t need anyone to explain a writer’s point of view. Yet he took direction, submitted flawless papers and never revealed his thinking process. I am not recommending the abolishment of schools, of course. Who even remembers learning to read or add or multiply? Yet we all did; the rote took hold in varying degrees, whether we were truly engaged in the process or not. When reviewing grammar rules to remedial English students, I often remind them of verb conjugation, an early elementary school lesson. I ask them if they recall ever conjugating verbs and none has claimed such a memory. Nonetheless, most of the time, their subjects and verbs agree in number, as they should. I only have the faintest memory of such instruction, yet I teach it today. When I have grammar questions, I take down my trusty handbook and look up the answer. It is a generally conceded fact in contemporary America

that long years of schooling from prekindergarten to some kind of career training are the best guarantee – though not foolproof – of a comfortable, successful life. Yet, using myself as an example, even though my graduate school education secured a teaching position, there isn’t much of those two years that I can directly connect to what I do in the classroom each day. I draw on my own reading, my working experience, interaction with other educated people and media outlets and all those buried, no longer remembered days in classrooms, learning things that I know but no longer remember how I know or where I learned them. Often students educate me about historical facts. I will ask which history class they obtained their knowledge, only to learn that they didn’t learn it in a class or a textbook. They learned from the History Channel or a TV-produced documentary. Learning often comes from what was once regarded as “the Boob Tube,” sometimes in subversive formats, such as Archie Bunker’s anti-heroism in the 1970s hit series “All in The Family.” Archie’s self-assured, yet embarrassing rants about race and class taught millions of TV viewers still adjusting to the 1964 Civil Rights Act about the ugliness of intolerance. So in a nutshell, that discontented student in that long ago Short Story and Novel class was partly right. He wasn’t likely to remember much about that literature class a year later, but hopefully an absorbed sentence or two from Conrad’s novella would have generated deeper thought about the nature of good and evil that he might not otherwise have had. n

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THE BEAT / HEALTH Galega officinalis/goat’s rue

Pharmaceutical Lagniappe Metformin: A Drug Examined by Brobson Lutz M.D.

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ould your ears perk up if you heard your neighborhood drugstore stocks a pill that decreases appetite, lowers cancer rates, prevents diabetes, staves off Parkinson’s disease and decreases wrinkles? Moreover, it’s a cheap generic with minimal adverse effects prescribed in one form or another since the Middle Ages. If you know anyone with adult-onset type 2 diabetes, you probably know someone already taking this wonder drug. If you yourself have diabetes, you’re

Lagniappe Medicines

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Metformin is an addition to a select group of drugs with benefits that transcend a single organ system. I call them “lagniappe drugs.” They deserve sainthood, as each is known for two or more miraculous therapeutic benefits crossing over into multiple disease categories. Aspirin, doxycycline and statins are members of this saintly group. Aspirin is the prototype of the lagniappe drugs. Hippocrates treated pain and fevers with an extract of willow tree bark. Aspirin remains the go-to drug for minor aches and pains, headaches and fever in adults. Aspirin has not only endured, new benefits

OCTOBER 2014 / myneworleans.com

likely taking it yourself. The drug is metformin, trade name Glucophage. It works on many fronts – decreases intestinal absorption and liver production of glucose, decreases insulin resistance and sends a message to the brain to eat less. “Probably 95 percent of my type 2 diabetics with normal renal function take metformin,” says Dr. Samuel Andrews, an internist with a subspecialty in endocrinology who currently practices at Ochsner Medical Center in Jefferson Parish. “It can cause often transient nausea and diarrhea, but in general metformin is very well tolerated.” Besides being the first choice drug to treat most type 2 diabetes, metformin can delay its onset, another indication for metformin that deserves more attention, according to Dr. Andrews and Dr. April Fox, an internist and kidney specialist. Taking a medication used to treat a specific disease to prevent that disease is often a hard sell. But recent data are clear: persons with slightly elevated blood glucose levels can delay and sometimes abort the onset of definitive diabetes, especially if they’re overweight. “And I prescribe it for women with polycystic ovary syndrome,” says Dr. Andrews referring to the most common endocrine disorder in women of childbearing age. Associated symptoms often include obesity, decreased periods, acne, infertility and increased facial hair. What about cancer? Just having diabetes increases the risk of cancer. Certain cancer cells grow faster and more aggressive in the presence of elevated blood glucose. Metformin taken by diabetic patients significantly reduces pancreatic, breast and colon cancer risks. And when cancers do occur, metformin can still help. It stimulates some cancer cells in a way that makes therapy more effective. Diabetic patients with advanced lung cancers taking metformin respond better to radiation therapy than those who don’t take the drug. For all men, beginning metformin before surgery for prostate cancer seems to reduce reoccurrences. Diabetics are twofold more likely to develop Parkin-

have emerged. Taken daily on a long-term basis, low dose aspirin decreases the incidence of strokes, heart attacks, blood vessel clots and colon cancers. Doxycycline is a semisynthetic tetracycline. Physicians prescribe it for a wide spectrum of infections from anthrax to syphilis. Dr. George Pankey at Ochsner was the first physician I remember who talked about anti-inflammatory properties of doxycycline separate and apart from its antibacterial activity. And indeed today doxycycline is used to help decrease inflammation in a host of common problems including rheumatoid arthritis, chronic bronchitis, acne and rosacea.

Jason Raish illustration


son’s disease than those without diabetes. When metformin is in the treatment mixture, this increased risk for Parkinson’s disease seems to go away. What about metformin and heart disease? The data are murkier. Any boost to weight loss and glucose control should decrease cardiovascular diseases. Earlier studies with diabetics showed anywhere from 15 to 25 percent reduction in the risk of coronary artery disease. But more recent studies are showing no improvement in cardiovascular endpoints for non-diabetics who take metformin. So where did this wonder medicine originate? Medieval herbalists used an extract from the leaves of a shrub native to the Middle East to treat excessive urination, a symptom of uncontrolled diabetes A college agricultural professor, apparently unaware the common name for Galega officinalis was goat’s rue in Europe, imported this plant into the United States to test as a forage crop in the 1890s. It was too toxic for grazing cattle, sheep and horses. It escaped from its Utah test fields and is now an invasive weed. Angry farmers took to calling it “professor weed” while others refer to it as “French lilac” or “Italian fitch.” European chemists in the 1920s first isolated and synthesized metformin from goat’s rue. Their findings fell by the wayside as diabetic research shifted to insulin.

Then a French physician renamed the drug Glucophage, meaning “glucose eater” and began treating diabetics with it in the ’50s. European drug regulators quickly approved metformin, noting that it was an oral drug that didn’t cause hypoglycemic reactions. Diabetics in England started taking it in ’58, but it took almost three decades before any drug company in the United States expressed interest. Since FDA approval in ’95, metformin has become initial drug of choice for type 2 diabetes when diet and exercise fail. But wouldn’t it be nice if metformin slowed aging and increased longevity? It does according to a researcher in Belgium; he says that not only did metformin extend life, it decreased wrinkles. Unfortunately these metformin benefits are not ready for prime time. The study subjects were small, round worms. But you can see pictures showing treated worms with less wrinkles (pnas. org/content/111/24/E2501/ F5.expansion.html). One final question for Dr. Andrews: How does metformin compare to Sugar Busters? “Metformin is right up there with Sugar Busters, but Sugar Busters is better for weight loss,” says Dr. Andrews, one of the authors of the diet book that took New Orleans by a storm before becoming a national best seller in 1991. n

The youngest proposed members of this saintly club are the statins. Lipitor, Zocor, Pravachol and others are all therapeutic cousins that decrease cholesterol and reduce heart attacks. But by our definition there must be therapeutic benefit in at least one other bodily system. There were high hopes that statins would decrease reduce strokes, heal traumatic brain injuries and slow the progression of Alzheimer’s disease. So far, there are no strong data supporting these claims. Just recently a scientist suggested that statins might help persons infected with Ebola. Now that would get the statins out of the pledge class into the saintly club without a black ball.

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THE BEAT / HEALTHBEAT

Children’s Hospital has opened an after-hours clinic in Metairie. Patients from newborn to 21 are welcome Mondays through Fridays from 7 p.m. to 3 a.m., Saturdays from 1 p.m. to 1 a.m. and Sundays from 9 a.m. to 1 a.m. No appointment required.

MELISSA CALICO photo

In America, even the most pious eaters among us are hard pressed to avoid sugar. It can be found in various forms in nearly everything we eat, from highly processed fast food and snacks to dairy and bread. The Sugar Detox, by Brooke Alpert, MS, RD, CDN and Tulane University clinical associate professor and dermatologist and skin care expert at Old Metairie Dermatology Patricia Farris, MD, FAAD, attempts to bust your sugar addiction. The book outlines a comprehensive, one-month plan to kick the sugar habit and improve your health and your complexion.

On Oct. 11, enjoy dinner and a silent auction during the Touro Infirmary Foundation Gala at Mardi Gras World New Orleans. The L’Dor V’Dor after-party benefits Women’s Services at Touro Infirmary and features music by the Mississippi Rail Co., and Panorama Jazz Band, as well as late night snacks and an open bar. The gala is 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. and the after-party is 9 p.m. to midnight. Ticket prices for the gala vary and are $50 at the door for L’Dor V’Dor. Visit touro.com/gala — Melanie Warner Spencer 36

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LOCAL COLOR IN TUNE MUSIC READ+SPIN CHARACTERS JOIE D’EVE MODINE GUNCH CHRONICLES HOME

MUSIC pg. 42

“The Mardi Gras Indians Crystal Feather dinner, which had its ninth iteration mid-August at Basin Street Station, is the brainchild of Cherice Harrison-Nelson, Queen of Guardians of the Flame (founded by her father, Big Chief Donald Harrison Sr.) and Dr. Roslyn Smith, a career educator and colleague of the late chief.”

GREG MILES PHOTOGRAPH


LOCAL COLOR / IN TUNE

Electronic Hybrid As the cost of distribution has declined, audiences have fractured and genres have become impossible to define. This month three acts are coming to town that do their best to avoid categorization. Check them out and let me know what you think: Phantogram (pop/rock/electronic) Oct. 4 at Republic, SBTRKT (pop/dance/R&B) Oct. 9 at Republic and Sinkane (pop/ funk/jazz/house) on Oct. 27 at One Eyed Jacks.

Voodoo in the Air Where spirited music arises BY mike griffith

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ctober is all about the countdown to the Voodoo Experience. Anticipating the Nov. 10 release of their new record Sonic Highways, the Foo Fighters will bring their high-intensity show to the festival’s main stage. This year Atlanta’s Outkast will share headlining duties. Outkast is currently on a 40-music festival reunion tour, which has been honed by a long summer of shows that began at Coachella back in April. Of course, often the best part of most music festivals is exploring the newer and lesser-known performances early in the day. First off be sure to check out two local acts that are currently making a name on the national circuit: Royal Teeth and Benjamin Booker. Royal Teeth is touring on the strength of their August 2013 debut record, Glow. This record extends and develops the promising vocal styling of their earlier EP and confirms their range of performance. Benjamin Booker is quite simply a force of nature. He combines blues, rock and power pop into an exuberant, unified whole. Booker’s eponymous record was released on Aug. 19 and has found a niche between Jack White and St. Vincent in what has become the summer of guitar rock. On a different note, be sure to check out Action Bronson. The Flushing Queens-based rapper and former gourmet chef has released several unbelievable mix tapes and the critically acclaimed EP Saab Stories. Be aware that his lyrics may not be for the easily offended, but the flow of his rhymes is undeniable. Finally, if you’re a fan of what country music was before its more modern incarnation, you are sure to enjoy Sturgill Simpson. This Kentucky native is most often compared to Waylon Jennings, but he has a contemporary sonic playfulness all his own.

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Do not worry, there are plenty of great shows between now and the festival as well. I am particularly looking forward to Poliça on the Oct. 8 at One Eyed Jacks. This electro-pop band has been tearing up the festival circuit this summer on the strength of their latest record, Shulamith. I had the pleasure of seeing them at Bonnaroo this summer, and I can highly recommend their high-intensity live performances. The very next night Annie Clark will take the stage at the House of Blues as St. Vincent. Several critics have touted this as the must-see tour of the summer, and she’s certainly not only one of the best live performers active, she’s also one of the best guitarists as well. To contact Mike Griffith about music news, upcoming performances and recordings, email Mike@MyNewOrleans. com or contact him through Twitter @Minima. Note: Dates are subject to change. Playlist of mentioned bands available at: bit.ly/ intune10-14 n Shawn Brackbill PHOTOGRAPH


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LOCAL COLOR / MUSIC

Cherice HarrisonNelson, Queen of Guardians of the Flame

Beating Their Drums Mardi Gras Indians celebrate themselves BY JASON BERRY

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wards banquets are typically drawn-out yawners that few people apart from the winners and their close ones would attend on purpose. Not so the Mardi Gras Indians Crystal Feather dinner, which had its ninth iteration mid-August at Basin Street Station. Crystal Feather is the brainchild of Cherice Harrison-Nelson, Queen of Guardians of the Flame (founded by her father, Big Chief Donald Harrison Sr.) and Dr. Roslyn Smith, a career educator and colleague of the late chief. The animating concept was simple enough: to honor various

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Mardi Gras Indians. But a banquet for urban warriors with a renegade tradition, marked by collisions with NOPD, does seem a contradiction in terms. Harrison-Nelson and Smith are flexible, thus did the Music Heritage Award this year go to Al “Carnival Time” Johnson, not an Indian, who moved through the room in a bright yellow suit with turquoise shoes, shaking hands and kissing people like a man running for city council. “Indian culture” has come far since Mardi Gras 1930, when a cop took a spear to the neck. The romance that began in the 1970s between certain Indian tribes and people with cameras blossomed alongside the march of street chants and percussive rhythms into studio sessions for discs such as the classic The Wild Tchoupitoulas. The melodic arrangements on that record, around the bravura vocals of Big Chief Jolley (the late George Landry) had long influence. The Indians hit the major media in 2010 when the HBO series “Treme” featured a Big Chief returning after Hurricane Katrina as one of the plotlines. Another sign of evolution was the Feather Award given to Big Queen Wanda Womble of the Cheyenne Hunters. “Women are becoming much more active as Indians,” says Harrison-Nelson, who has done a good share of making that happen. The Cheynne Hunters are an offshoot of an older gang, the Golden Blades, whose longtime Big Chief, Paul Longpré, died at age 97 on July 23 this year. (Longpré was a major source for the Indian history I worked on for the history Up From the Cradle of Jazz with my colleagues Jonathan Foose and Tad Jones.) In

fall 1980 I escorted Big Chief Longpré to the Folk Life Festival in Washington, D.C. He was by then long-retired as an Indian, though his blazing suit drew an army of admirers as he walked along the mall, recalling the high point of the Golden Blades when he sent upward of 170 masked Indians into Mardi Gras streets in the mid-’60s. That is a huge number for one tribe; most today have at most 20, but in the surging energies of the civil rights era, art played a potent role in life. “Bad guys, gamblers, peddlers, playboys that pimped the womens – those were the guys that masked Indian,” he said at the Smithsonian exhibit session that day. “Ninety percent of the city scorned the Indians; that was one reason why police was so hard on the Indians.” Tootie Montana, the late Big Chief of Yellow Pocahontas, echoed Longpré in telling me that the early Indian gangs included “stone killers.” Yet the impact of chieftains such as Montana, Longpré and Harrison seems a major factor in how the Indians shed the internecine violence and in the 1940s, according to Longpré, began “competing for the beauty of costumes.” The NOPD didn’t go merrily along, and Indians accused cops of harassing them for decades thereafter. In summer 2005, Big Chief Tootie stood before the city council, railing against the police; he fell from the podium in mid-oratory, dying of a heart attack as unmasked Indians gathered around him. The Indians’ history is far from complete. I thank the Big Chiefs I’ve named here for how much of their lives they shared. n greg miles PHOTOGRAPH


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LOCAL COLOR / READ+SPIN COOKBOOK In Louisiana, cultures and their foods mix and mingle to create a cuisine distinct to the region. In The Essential Louisiana Cookbook, author Stanley Dry brings together the state’s culture and history via 50 of his delectable recipes. (Editor’s note: The book is locally produced and printed by Renaissance Publishing, publisher of this magazine, and edited by the writer of this monthly column.) Many readers are familiar with Dry from his Louisiana Life magazine “Kitchen Gourmet” column. He also is a former senior editor of Food & Wine magazine and an accomplished cook. The perfect kitchen companion for Louisiana natives and novices alike, the book offers everything from triedand-true gumbos to modern takes on seafood, poultry and meat dishes. With mouth-watering, full-color photos by New Orleans photographer Eugenia Uhl, this collection is created by and for food lovers – especially lovers of Louisiana food.

FICTION New Orleanian and Tulane University adjunct professor Katy Simpson Smith’s debut novel, The Story of Land and Sea, is gaining widespread recognition on a national scale. The story chronicles the lives and loves of three generations in a North Carolina costal town at the winding down of the American Revolution.

ROCK AND COUNTRY Louisiana-native Jerry Lee Lewis’ new, Memphis-recorded album, Rock & Roll Time, features collaborations with musical greats across multiple genres, including Keith Richards, Neil Young, Ivan Neville and Shelby Lynn. With songs spanning the catalogs of greats such as Kris Kristofferson, Johnny Cash and Chuck Berry, the Killer flexes his musical muscle with old-school favorites and lesserknown treasures. His bluesy rendition of the title track, Kristofferson’s “Rock & Roll Time,” opens with Lewis’ signature piano playing, combining slide guitar and vocal harmonies drawing from country and gospel. The tour to support the new release kicks off Oct. 4 at the Ryman Auditorium. Additional dates are to be announced. n

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BY melanie warner spencer Please send submissions for consideration, attention: Melanie Spencer, 110 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Suite 123, Metairie, LA 70005.


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LOCAL COLOR / CAST OF CHARACTERS

Peter Finney

Sports, the daily beat

BY george gurtner

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he more people toss around the word ‘iconic’ these days, the less validity the word has. But when the name of retired sportswriter Peter Finney comes up in conversation, you almost expect that word can’t be far behind. In fact, it all seems to flow together quite naturally as in “… the iconic sports writer, Peter Finney.” Or just “… the iconic Peter Finney.” For 68 years, the white-haired native of the French Quarter had (and still has) the ‘Right Stuff’ as writer Tom Wolfe defined it in his 1979 book by the same name. “I was a kid at Loyola when my dad bumped into a friend of his,” the 87-year-old Finney says. “My dad told him, ‘My son’s looking for a job … if you hear of anything let me know.” Well, the man knew of an opening at the old States (newspaper) on North Street. I went there never having even thought about writing anything. It was in July, and I began covering American Legion baseball. I was paid $20 a week. Things just went on from there.” ‘From there’ is a masterful creation of some 15,000 columns as the States morphed into the States-Item then into The Times-Picayune. Along the way Finney was named “Sports Writer of the Year” 17 times by the Louisiana Sports Writers Association. Other awards? Forget it! The list runs into eternity as would be expected of an ‘iconic’ career. “The thing that made it all so incredible was that he wrote five columns a week,” says Peter Finney Jr., the executive editor of The Clarion Herald, the Catholic newspaper of the Archdiocese of New Orleans and one of six of Finney Senior’s offspring. “Five columns a

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week and that was before there was Saints football and professional basketball. There just was not a lot of sports in New Orleans. It was a pretty difficult thing to do.” “I was always looking for different angles,” Peter Senior says. “I was always looking at the things people were talking about. And back then we always had (sports related) companies doing promotions in New Orleans. And there were a lot of people doing those promotions. People like Joe DiMaggio, Ted Williams, George Digby who was a scout for the Red Sox. Jessie Owens (1936 Olympic gold medalist) was in town promoting a liquor product and I wanted to interview him. He asked me to drive him to the airport and I interviewed him while on the way. The memories of personalities past have been stoked, and Peter Finney senior is on a roll recalling all the big names. “Now, Gorgeous George

ich and Dave Dixon come to mind, as do the books Finney has written about LSU athletics. He talks of the quirky, nutty early days of the New Orleans Saints and their days at rusted old Tulane Stadium. And he talks of his lifelong friend and sportscaster, the late ‘Buddy’ Diliberto and Diliberto’s penchant for side splitting malapropisms: ‘Mayor Joe Yenner of Kenny of Kenner’ and about the time Diliberto toured Children’s Hospital and came to report, “Man, I tell you it’s something else to see those kids walking down the hall attached to their RV’s.” And then there are the wonderful memories of 61 years of marriage to Doris, or ‘Deedy’ as she was so fondly remembered. “I was being interviewed on a talk show,” Peter Senior says. “Doris called to remind me to pick up a gallon of milk on the way home. It went out over the air. I started to ask her to make a list and call me

the Wrestler. Man, he was a piece of work. He was his own best promoter. He tells me, ‘I never want to be half safe. When I get into the ring I spray myself with Chanel No. 10.” As Finney sits in the book-lined living room of his Victorian home on Esplanade Avenue this warm breezy afternoon, names like Charlie McClendon and Paul Dietzel, Pete Marav-

back. She was such wonderful, wonderful person. It’s been a great life!” From such careers and lives come the true meaning of the word ‘iconic.’ Contact George Gurtner at characters@myneworleans.com. His latest book, Cast of Characters is on sale at bookstores throughout New Orleans and may be ordered through MargaretMedia.com n

“As far as I am concerned, I just want you to know that I like the job I have, but if I had to live my life over again, I would have liked to have ended up as a sports writer.” – President Richard M. Nixon

FRANK METHE PHOTOGRAPH


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LOCAL COLOR / MODINE’S NEW ORLEANS

Strap Them In Keeping peace in the car BY MODINE GUNCH

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got plenty to say (under my breath) about the way some people raise their kids these days. But at least everybody has one thing right: Car seats and seat belts. Strap them kids down so they can’t move a muscle. I know it’s supposed to keep them safe, but that’s not what I’m talking about here. I am talking about peace. Used to be they was poking their little heads over the front seat, sneezing in your ear, squalling “Are we there yet?” every two seconds, and doing God-knows-what back there. I know. I remember when I myself did God-knows-what back there. One time my father bought a new car – this was back in Year One, way before anybody used seat belts or car seats. He and Mama walked into the Nash dealership – us kids tagging behind – and he told the salesman what he wanted and how much he was willing to pay. They decided on a shiny green station wagon that was about a mile long and shaped like a rocket. Daddy counted out 15 hundred-dollar bills right then and there, and we all piled in and drove out of the lot. Instead of seat belts, my father made rules. No jumping over seats. No food in the car. No drinks. No snowballs. No cookies. No candy. No food whatsoever. He didn’t say no gum. The day after Halloween that year, we’re getting ready to drive to my grandmother’s for lunch before we all go to the cemetery, like we do every All Saints Day. I am in my bedroom with my head in my Trick-or-Treat bag when Daddy roars, “Everybody in the car!” I stick the bag in my underwear drawer, shove four pieces of bubble gum in my mouth and run for the car. I push my brother, Fermin Jr., over so I can sit right behind my father, to

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be sure he won’t see my jaws working that gum. Well, Daddy has a habit of leaning forward over the steering wheel to stretch his back whenever we stop at a red light. When he stops at one particular light, I lean forward too, to get a good look at some boys from my fifth grade class who are walking their bikes across the street. And right then, Fermin Jr., who’s mad because I stole the window seat, smacks me between the shoulder blades. My bubble gum shoots right out of my mouth and arcs up and over the back of Daddy’s seat. In the exact same second, the light changes and Daddy sits back. The gum is now smashed between his nice white shirt and the car seat. I panic. I try to pantomime to my mother what happened, pointing to my open mouth and down Daddy’s back, but she just shakes her head and turns up the radio. So the minute we pull up

in front of my grandmother’s shotgun house, I zip out the car, run inside and lock myself in her bathroom. Grandma knocks and asks if I’m all right. I say I’m sick to my stomach. Which is the truth. After a while Fermin Jr. knocks. “You’re in trouble nowww,” he singsongs. “Daddy can’t get out the car.” But after a longer while, I hear Daddy stomp into the front room. “Fermin!” my grandmother says, “What’s the matter with you, boy? You can’t go to the cemetery in your undershirt!” I can just picture him, in his ribbed sleeveless undershirt with his armpit hair billowing out. He asks, “Where’s Modine?” There is a big old-fashioned clothes hamper built into the bathroom wall. I climb in. Even from in there, I can hear Mama calming things down. Then I hear ice cube trays being emptied. Then it gets quiet. Finally Mama knocks on the door. “Come out. We froze the gum off the car seat with ice. But we have to throw his good shirt out. Daddy went home to get another one.” I come out – and I get the longest lecture of my life. I get it again, louder, when Daddy gets back. I start saving my money right then to buy him a new shirt for Christmas. I get it in bubble-gum pink, so the gum won’t show if I ever do that again. That is how kids think. Strap ’em in and bring on the movies. n LORI OSIECKI ILLUSTRATION


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LOCAL COLOR / JOIE D’EVE

Last of the Firsts the no-baby blues BY EVE CRAWFORD PEYTON

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ight now, I’m feeling kind of like a warrior because I just assembled a day bed – plus trundle! – all by myself while listening to Taylor Swift songs (nope, not embarrassed, not even a little bit). I used a hex key and a Phillips head screwdriver and a moderate amount of bad language and a basic amount of common sense, and I got the damn thing put together. But yesterday, I wasn’t a warrior. Yesterday, I was a huge sobbing mess. Yesterday, I gave away the last of Georgia’s baby things. The crib and the Pack ‘N Play and the car seat and the Moby Wrap and the outgrown clothes all went to good homes, to friends who will very soon put brand-new babies into them. And when I

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think of all the exhaustion that lies ahead for them, all of the long nights and the early mornings, I’m not jealous. But then I remember that impossibly muggy summer night in mid-June 2012 when 2-week-old Georgia would not stop screaming and how I snuggled her up in that Moby Wrap, tied her against me, both of us sweating like crazy wrapped up in all that thick fabric, but she calmed down immediately, and I felt so proud of myself for knowing how to soothe her, and I kissed her tiny bald baby head again and again, smoothing it with the flat of my hand and then kissing it again, shushing her, swaying back and forth. Just typing this is making me cry all over again, and I’m mopping at my cheeks with scratchy brown industrial paper towels because they’re all I have on hand. They hurt, but it kind of feels like penance for crying over something so silly, to be honest. I have no reason to cry. Nothing is wrong with my baby, with either one of my babies. They are blessedly healthy and happy. They are growing up. They are supposed to grow up. I am happy that they’re growing up. So why am I also so sad? With Ruby, I always kind of figured I would have another

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baby, and I didn’t particularly enjoy her infancy, marred as it was by her agonizing reflux and my crippling anxiety of first-time motherhood, so I embraced each stage as she moved into it. With Georgia, who was a delightful baby, I’m excited to watch her advance, but I know that each “first” is also a “last.” It is her first step, and my last time to watch a baby of mine take her first step. And so on with everything. I don’t want another baby. God, not even a little bit. But I – day-bed-building warrior – am still driven to tears when I realize I’ll never have another baby swing in my living room. Still, some things aren’t going away. Just last night, I lay next to Georgia in bed and sang her the same song I sang to her the first night I held her in the hospital, “Baby Mine,” which is a hard song to sing even if you can sing, which I can’t. But even though I consistently mangle the song, Georgia loves it. And last night, when I was done singing, Georgia reached out and patted my face. “Sing it again, Mama,” she said. She talks now, in full sentences; it’s so awesome. And so I sang it again. I even sang it one more time after that. She may have outgrown her crib and her baby clothes, but I hope she never outgrows her lullaby. n

Excerpted from Eve Crawford Peyton’s blog, Joie d’Eve, which appears each Friday on MyNewOrleans.com.

jane sanders ILLUSTRATION


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LOCAL COLOR / chronicles

Pediatrician Sandra Robinson

Lab Coats Rock New Orleans women take science seriously BY CAROLYN KOLB

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andra Robinson’s route to becoming a pediatrician may have begun with a friend’s father who was a doctor with his own clinic. “I even went on a visit when they moved from New Orleans to California,” she says. Robinson’s undergraduate and medical degrees are from Howard University in Washington, D.C.. After practicing pediatrics in Washington, D.C. and later in California, she returned home with her former husband, also a physician. Robinson took a detour into the public sector, first managing clinics for the New Orleans Health Foundation, then in management at Charity Hospital. Ultimately she served as Secretary of Louisiana’s Department of Health and Human Resources before returning to private practice. “I think the best thing you can do for kids – and I include my own two children – is to make sure they know they can do anything they want to.” Robinson says. Dr. Elizabeth “Terry” Fontham grew up in Crowley, Louisiana. Stricken with polio at the age of 7, (“in the year before the vaccine,”) she was hospitalized in Baton Rouge while her grandfather was dying of stomach cancer. . Fortunately Fontham recovered. She received a Master’s degree at Louisiana State University and a doctorate at Tulane University in epidemiology,and has “been a cancer epidemiologist ever since.”

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“My career has been a real joy,” she says. On the faculty of the LSU Health Sciences Center in New Orleans for 35 years, she’s the founding Dean of LSU’s School of Public Health. Her research work has involved cancer studies. “We put the lid on tobacco companies’ insistence that secondhand smoke could not kill. That led to big policy decisions, which led to cleaner indoor air,” she says. The problem of cancer “will never be solved by any one person,” Fontham says. “Every time somebody I know is diagnosed with cancer, I take it personally.” In 1966, the Associated Press sent out a New Orleans story along with a picture: “Mrs. Harriet Joan Aguiar, a green-eyed blonde who could well rate as a pin-up girl for Viet Nam servicemen … is a scientist at Tulane University in New Orleans” working on a malaria cure. Times change. Harriet Aguiar-Netto (her second husband was the late Rene Netto) says, “They’d never describe someone as a ‘pretty blonde’ today!” With her Tulane doctorate in Organic Chemistry, she continued doing research, married, had children and taught science at the Louise S. McGehee School, St. Martin’s Episcopal School (where she became Head of the Upper School) and Isidore Newman School (where she taught Advanced Placement Chemistry). Aguiar-Netto was hon-

ored with two summers of research at the Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory in California, working with Noble Prize-winner Dr. George Smoot. She takes great pride in her students’ success: “When I have a mammogram, the radiologist who reads it was one of my girl students, and one of my fondest memories is of watching television Carnival night when they announced that the Queen of Comus was majoring in Engineering – and she was a student of mine!” Elinor McCloskey Frantz grew up in a pharmacist’s household, so it was no surprise when she chose that profession. Her father, John McCloskey, was Dean of the College of Pharmacy at Loyola University, where Frantz received her degree – as one of five women in the class of 1953. “When we graduated, we took the state boards (licensing exam) the next week.” She went to work at Metairie Hospital as hospital pharmacist. After marriage to the late architect Phares Frantz, she raised her children and then, deciding to get back into pharmacy, was offered a job at Charity Hospital. “I was a staff pharmacist there for 17 years.” Frantz’s three daughters followed their mother into science: One is a doctor at a pediatric burn center in Baton Rouge and the other two are nurses. Today, women choosing science isn’t surprising – and that’s good news! n Craig Mulcahy photograph


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LOCAL COLOR / HOME

Greek Revival Revived

Condo grandeur near Lafayette Square BY BONNIE WARREN / PHOTOGRAPHED BY CHERYL GERBER

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uilt before 1851 as a townhouse on the 800-block of St. Charles Avenue (near Gallier Hall), today the building is a collection of elegant condominiums, with few more interesting than the one fashioned in the front overlooking St. Charles Avenue by Deborah Duplechin and Dr. I.N. “Corky” Harkins Jr. The nearly 3,000-square foot condo was fashioned from raw space a few years

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ago. Both Duplechin and Harkins are enthusiastic about living in the historic Greek revival building. “Everyday I hug this place that we find both sophisticated and comfortable, as well as a reflection of the creativity in expressing the


experiences of our lives,” says Duplechin, an attorney and lobbyist with McGlinchey Stafford. Harkins, a retired orthodontist adds, “This building allows for a comfortable living design evident in many historic New Orleans properties, such as multiple balconies, large floor to ceiling-to-ceiling windows for natural light, exposed old brick walls and natural wood floors. “One of the most exciting aspects of the project was that Mary and Roland von Kurnatowski, the developers of the property, allowed us to do our own

Facing Page: The large living room opens onto the broad balcony overlooking St. Charles Avenue; large windows that also serve as doorways to the balcony flood the space with light. Top: Deborah Duplechin and I.N. “Corky” Harkins Jr. on their St. Charles Avenue balcony. Left: The condo’s exterior belies the grandeur within.

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Facing Page: Top, Left: The tranquility of the master bedroom is captured by the acrylic painting by New Orleans artist Adrian Deckbar called “Transcendent Motion.” Top, right: The master bathroom features a free-standing tub. Bottom, left: In the guest bathroom, the tile is from Bizzaro, Italy, and is fashioned in the image of a bust of young Napoleon. Bottom, right: The master closet allows the shoes and wigs to make an colorful artistic statement. Top: The open kitchen features marble countertops; the painting is by Agnes St. Amand, originally from Opelousas. Left: Dallas glass artist Jim Bowman, who trained with famous glass artist Chihuly, created the dramatic foyer multi-colored ceiling lights.

floor plan and design every aspect of our condo,” Harkins says. “They provided us with a great property with good bones, and their vision of the project created the perfect setting for us to do our first ‘build out’ from scratch.” They hired contractor Brett Oliver to create the spaces they wanted. “He was wonderful to work with,” Duplechin says. “First and foremost, he cared about the quality of work and found us the best subcontractors for specific tasks, always making sure that everything was satisfactory to our needs, and it meant a great deal to us that he maintained a great attitude at all times.” Today the couple enjoys living in a

vibrant neighborhood. “Everything is within walking distance,” Harkins says. “We even have a first-class grocery and specialty foods store, since Rouses moved into our neighborhood.” The couple maintains dual residences: their St. Charles Avenue condo and a home in Lafayette, where Harkins practiced his dentistry. “There is no doubt that our St. Charles residence is a great joy,” he says. “I love opening the windows just enough to hear the rumble of the streetcars on St. Charles Avenue.” Duplechin agrees, “One of my favorite spaces is on the inside balcony overlooking the fountain. It provides a place for my morning Zen-time listening to the water.” n myneworleans.com / OCTOBER 2014

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n Madisonville, where the Highway 22 bridge crosses the Tchefuncte River, the bridge swings opens to let boat traffic through every halfhour on weekends. If you happen to “catch” the bridge while you’re driving, put down your smartphone and take a few moments to appreciate the Tchefuncte. Since its founding, Madisonville has been defined by this river; today its waterfront hosts restaurants, businesses, City Hall, a state park, construction sites and marinas. Among people who know and frequent the Northshore, this may arguably be the most popular part of the river; among newcomers, it’s probably their introduction to the historic waterway. It is here that hopeful fishermen launch their

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boats in the early morning hours, where water skiers gracefully skim the water and where the person who dared show up without a boat can enjoy still enjoy the view from underneath a shady tree.

A metaphor for change But don’t let your bridge moment be the end of the experience. Insiders love the river for its peaceful beauty, which is often the first thing mentioned by river enthusiasts. Mark Salvetti is a longtime Northshore resident and paddler. “The river’s really wide and pretty, and the cypress trees and the birds and everything make for a beautiful backdrop” while paddling, he says. “In Madisonville,” he continues, “you can put in [the water] there along Water

Street, have a paddle, sit in the shade of the oak trees, go have lunch … and hang out. It’s a beautiful place to hang out before, after and while you’re paddling.” Indeed, Madisonville, picturesque with historic houses and Spanish moss, captures the eye and the heart. But only yards away, the trendy waterfront gives way to a vista of quiet, tree-lined banks. Gone is the hum-and-clink of cars crossing the bridge, replaced by boats slicing through the water, engines sputtering along at the recommended speed of “dead slow.” Even farther north, where it’s smaller and less populated, the Tchefuncte River is impressive. Winding south from Tangipahoa Parish, meandering past Covington and Madisonville and finally dropping off


into Lake Pontchartrain, the river and its tributaries form a watershed that’s unique even by Louisiana standards. The Tchefuncte (Most people say Cha-FUNK-ta. It comes from an American Indian word that means chinquapin, which is a type of tree.) is more than just a river, or even a beautiful river, it’s a metaphor for change. Over 200 years, the Tchefuncte has been the centerpiece of a region that’s been a rural outpost, industrial center and exurb. Who uses it On a recent morning, fishermen sat in their boats, wilting in the heat, trying to land a few bass or perch or something else good enough for dinner. One man casts nets looking for bait fish.

Facing page: A boats speeding back to the dock to beat a late afternoon thunderstorm. Top, left: Gabe Hanson, 7, of Covington holding up a bait fish he and his dad caught in the river. Top, right: A man using an umbrella to shield the midday sun as he fishes in a bayou off the Tchefuncte. Bottom: Great Egret

The fishing is pretty good here, says John Haller of Picayune, Mississippi, who runs the 1Chasing Tail charter service. Most of his fishing clients would rather catch saltwater fish, though. But many of them have had good luck in the freshwater Tchefuncte in spring and in early fall. Summer, on the other hand, is the perfect time for water sports. Salvetti, a project manager for Stirling Properties, is also the owner of Bayou Paddle Co. As a teenager, he explored local waterways in canoes and kayaks. But after

he discovered stand-up paddleboards, he bailed on boats and eventually founded his company “as an excuse to get friends on boards with me and out on the water.” He estimates about half his paddling takes place on the Tchefuncte, especially around Madisonville, although weather, time of day and crowds influence his paddling courses around Northshore communities. “Even though there’s boat traffic north of the town, we’ll paddle up to Brady Island and back – that’s like a six-mile myneworleans.com / OCTOBER 2014

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Top, left: Jet skiers on a crowded river in the late afternoon on a recent Sunday. Bottom, left: The Beau Chene Golf Course along the Tchefuncte. Right: Boats line up at the recently reopened T-Rivers, which was leveled in Hurricane Isaac. Facing page: Boater on the Tchefuncte upriver from Madisonville

paddle – and if you do it early enough in the morning there’s only fishermen that scoot by in their boats, and they don’t throw off that much of a wake,” he says. Salvetti leads group tours and classes in the area, sometimes with scores of paddlers advancing upstream like a small army.

State Protection for a Scenic River Salvetti isn’t alone in his passion for the Tchefuncte River. The state of Louisiana saw its value early on. In 1970, when the state launched its Natural and Scenic Rivers System, it included the northernmost section of the Tchefuncte River as well as its tributaries, down to its confluence with the Bogue Falaya River. The rest of the Tchefuncte River, from the Bogue Falaya all the way down to Lake Pontchartrain, joined the system in 1985 and ’99. The Scenic Rivers Act provides some

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protection for the rivers within its system. One of its main missions: “preserving, protecting, developing, reclaiming and enhancing the wilderness qualities, scenic beauties and ecological regime of certain free-flowing streams,” as well as preserving the “aesthetic, scenic, recreational, fish, wildlife, ecological, archaeological, geological, botanical and other natural and physical features and resources” of those waterways. But while the act limits practices such as clear-cutting and regulates permitting close to rivers, it doesn’t provide specific guidance on the maintenance of individual rivers. And the Tchefuncte’s issues are specific, in that they combine environmental issues, tourism and residential quality of life. Some of the land mass around the Tchefuncte’s banks has eroded, especially where it meets Lake Pontchartrain; the historic Madisonville lighthouse, a landmark at its mouth, is in need of

repair and has no public access; and it has a lot of refuse in its riverbed, some of which needs to be removed. The river itself is small, but its impact is big, says Keith Cascio, Scenic Rivers Coordinator for Louisiana’s Department of Wildlife and Fisheries. “When we look at a map of scenic rivers in Louisiana, it actually looks like the biggest one that we have. The stream itself is small, but because all those tributaries are included,” the official system creates a complex network that’s unique to the region. The northernmost section “provides a lot of acreage of riparian areas and small streams that are a critical habitat for wildlife, but it’s also a critical habitat for wildlife propagation, fish propagation,” Cascio says. The Tchefuncte watershed also affects the balance of Lake Pontchartrain. “The lake is more influenced from the river than the other way around,” explains Dr. John Lopez, executive director of the Lake Pontchartrain Basin Foundation. “The habitat isn’t a distinct boundary. At the river’s mouth it’s not suddenly a river ecology [on one side] and on the other side is a lake ecology. There’s kind of a soft transition.”


Who takes care of it? Even though St. Tammany Parish communities surround the Tchefuncte River, the parish has no oversight of the river, according to its Public Information Office. The Tchefuncte currently has no affiliation with the Waterkeeper Alliance, a worldwide nonprofit that often licenses organizations or individuals to patrol waterways regularly. Even though the river is small, “someone could start a Tchefuncte riverkeeper program if they wanted to. I think it would be great,” says Paul Orr, the Baton-Rouge-based Lower Mississippi Riverkeeper. “We’d be excited to help that happen.” For now, the Tchefuncte has some local advocates. One is Kyle Catalano, Madison-

ville resident and the founder of the fouryear-old Tchefuncte River Foundation. It was the disappearance of a sandbar from the mouth of the river that spurred Catalano’s interest in the Tchefuncte. Over time the sandbar melted away, completely subsiding around 2009,” he says, and Catalano wanted to restore it. He became concerned for all of the Tchefuncte’s “waterways, tributaries – the land in general,” even the abandoned boats on the river. With the help of a small committee, he held a fundraiser. Ninety people came, and he raised $10,000. “It was enough to get me started, to get the attention focused on it,” he says. Today, Catalano, who still holds his day job at a title company and describes himself as a layman, tries to work with other

organizations, like the Lake Pontchartrain Basin Foundation and the Lake Pontchartrain Basin Maritime Museum – organizations whose goals align with the health of the river. One of his current projects is the removal of two dozen derelict boats from the river. Catalano describes his motivation in scenes from a childhood in St. Bernard Parish, where he grew up boating and fishing with his father, who pointed out areas of land loss and why they were important. Now he uses his free time to run the Tchefuncte River Foundation, which, among other things, stages a series of events that highlight the river’s needs. The foundation has no full-time employees, only volunteers.

The Madisonville Wooden Boat Festival If your familiarity with the Tchefuncte River is limited to marveling at its almost unpronounceable name on highway signs, consider that many Louisianians have been introduced to the Northshore by way of the Madisonville Wooden Boat Festival. This year’s festival, its 25th anniversary, takes place Oct. 11-12. Visitors will take in food, music, kids’ events, a “Quick ‘n’ Dirty” boatbuilding contest and about 100 wooden and classic boats, like steamers

and schooners, lined up on the Tchefuncte River. “We want [the festival] to be an educational opportunity for the public so that they can continue to appreciate the history of the Tchefuncte River,” says Louise Saenz, the Wooden Boat Festival coordinator. “Many of [the wooden boats] are styles that are indigenous to this region.” The boat festival is the primary fundraiser for the Lake Pontchartrain Basin Maritime Museum. Tickets are $10 per person. myneworleans.com / OCTOBER 2014

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Top: An alligator in a bayou near the river. Facing page, left: Great Egret grabs a fish for lunch along the river. Facing page, right: A boater goes upriver at sunrise on the Tchefuncte. Bottom: The Tchefuncte River Lighthouse

Centerpiece of industry In the 19th and 20th centuries, the Tchefuncte was a quick route between Northshore industry and the city of New Orleans. Sawmills, lumber yards, shipyards – businesses needed and used the river. The riverbed is a monument to the industry. Gangways, docks, whole historic vessels – a lot of them intact and identifiable – logs and lumber material, and plain old trash is still down there, says Allen Saltus, a marine archaeologist based in Jackson, Louisiana, who surveyed parts of the river between 1988-’91. Storms and other misfortunes sank boats of a more recent vintage, some still containing fuel. These are the ones that need to be carefully removed. Meantime, is there any benefit to bringing up a historic boat? “Just where do you put it?” Saltus wonders. “Let

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alone preservation and cost. Right now it’s best to leave them where they’re at because they’re so well-preserved.”

Reforestation Lumber was important in centuries past, and it will probably continue to be in the future as well. Last year Lopez started a cypress planting project along the river, south of Madisonville. A marsh fire derailed those efforts – the trees were destroyed, unfortunately, but he’s going to try again. “We’re intending to try again next winter and plant some more trees at a little bit different location,” Lopez says. “The habitat there is more suitable for cypress reforestation. It’ll help protect Madisonville from storm surge.” Lopez and his foundation monitor the growth and progress of trees planted in other areas, like St. Bernard

and Plaquemines parishes, and they’ve adapted well. The trees don’t even have to reach full maturity to have some benefit, he says. “The trees we plant are about three feet tall. The trees that have been there now for about three years, they’re now over 12 feet tall. Once they start getting that size, then they start to make a difference.” Lopez says he’s also in favor of having a breakwater or pedestrian walkway along the shoreline between the mouth of the Tchefuncte and the lighthouse. “You’d have good public access to the lighthouse” – which is currently off-limits to visitors – “at the same time you’d create a lagoon behind the breakwater, which creates a more diverse habitat. You’d also stop shoreline erosion,” Lopez says. Planning for the future As Louisiana’s warm weather draws to a close, so does Kyle Catalano’s “peak” season for events. Concerts, crawfish boils – getting people outdoors and near the water is key to raising awareness of


the river’s issues, one event at a time, he says. But even though winter may put his fundraising event schedule temporarily on hold, he’s still thinking long term, even beyond the sandbar and the boat removal. For the future: Like Lopez, Catalano

wants to build a jetty or breakwater at the mouth of the river to replace land that has since washed away. Catalano says the idea has local support, but is a massive project that requires the involvement of multiple agencies.

“Do I think it’s going to happen? I have no doubt that it’s going to happen,” Catalano says enthusiastically. “Am I going to be gray-haired and with grandchildren at the time? Probably so. But I’m not going to let it go.” n

The Lighthouse You need a boat to get there, and a pair of binoculars would probably help, too. The historic Tchefuncte River Light Station is a short distance from the mouth of the river, but a long way from being accessible to the general public. A lighthouse has guided boats in that location since 1837, but the structure that stands there today dates from 1868. In 2012, Hurricane Isaac damaged it, and vandalism and disrepair ultimately led to its closure, but preservationists are attempting to restore the structure and perhaps turn it into an educational resource someday. The Lake Pontchartrain Basin Maritime Museum manages the structure and raises funds for it. The lighthouse got a new door this summer to replace the one damaged by Isaac, and new steps are on the way, too. The museum is planning to build up the bulkhead around the structure. But

can onlookers get there soon? “It depends on how you define soon,” says the Maritime Museum’s Interim Director Don Lynch, who says they still need time to build the supporting structures and start arranging boat trips out to the site. “So much of it is funding – to build a pier could come within the next couple of years,” Lynch adds. To that end, the museum recently teamed up with the Tchefuncte River Foundation to co-host the Tchefuncte Tribute, a gala that helps benefit the lighthouse. Kyle Catalano of the foundation says the joint effort raised needed funds and created awareness around the Tchefuncte. And it fostered a formal partnership where none had existed before. Says Catalano, “That was a big win for both organizations.” myneworleans.com / OCTOBER 2014

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Family Legacies Multiple generation businesses By Judi Russell | Photographed by Jeffery Johnston

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hink it’s easy to keep a family business alive and well? Think again, says Dean Ira Solomon of Tulane’s A.B. Freeman School of Business. Only 40 percent of family-owned businesses in this country make it into the second generation, he says. And it gets more difficult as time goes by; just 13 percent make it into a third generation and a miniscule 3 percent are still familyowned by the fourth generation or beyond. This year we recognize five New Orleans family businesses that have figured out how to circumvent the challenges that inevitably arise when relatives have to mesh their working styles to achieve a common goal. Whether it’s creating custom jewelry or preparing delicious meals, these folks have learned to keep home and office separate – not always the easiest thing to do when your coworker is also your father or your spouse. Family businesses can increase the chance they will survive by keeping in mind a few key points, Solomon says. One important step is to plan for succession. Do not just assume that junior will make the best CEO when dad retires, he says; instead, get professional counseling to help decide which family members best match positions as they become available. It is also critical to seek outside expertise in matters of taxes, estate planning and other areas outside of the primary business, the dean says. To help these businesses, the Freeman School has a Family Business Center, where companies can take advantage of educational programs and the opportunity for one-on-one consultation. “We don’t provide technical or legal advice,” Solomon says. But the center can help family members identify the problems they face and find the help they need to keep their family businesses in the fortunate few that thrive, generation after generation.

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Thomas “Tommy” Dugan Westfeldt II and Shelby Westfeldt Mills

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Westfeldt Brothers Inc.

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s local family businesses go, Westfeldt Brothers, Inc. goes back quite a long way. In 1835, Gustavus Adolphus George Westfeldt came to America from Sweden to be vice-consul. He formed Westfeldt Brothers in 1851 in Mobile, Alabama. The company, which moved to New Orleans in 1853, is the oldest green coffee importer in the United States. In recent years it has broadened its scope to include the gourmet and chicory coffee, and tea markets as well. Today, fifth-generation member Thomas Dugan Westfeldt II, who goes by Tommy, is president and CEO of the company, and his daughter, Shelby Westfeldt Mills, is executive vice president. Along the way, the Westfeldt family played an instrumental role in such well-known businesses as Mississippi Shipping Co., now known as Delta Steamship Co., and D.H. Holmes. The family also is active in the Waldo Burton Memorial Boys Home, known as The Society for Destitute Orphan Boys. Tommy Westfeldt says he was unsure about which career path to follow when he graduated from Louisiana State University. After a stint working on his mother’s farm in Poplar, Mississippi, he joined the family business in 1975 and says he took to it right away. “It’s never, never dead,” he says, describing the fast-paced world of coffee trading. He also enjoys the longstanding relationships cemented over the decades between the company and its suppliers and customers. The job also involves a lot of travel, both to coffee-producing companies and to conventions. Westfeldt Brothers has customers all over the country, with quite a few in the South and the Midwest. When Shelby was married, many of the wedding guests were people the family had become close to through the coffee business, she says. Mills says she was never pressured into joining the family firm. After graduating from the University of Alabama, she moved to New York to job-hunt. During that period, Hurricane Katrina hit the city and Westfeldt Brothers evacuated to North Carolina. Shelby was asked to help out by clerking at the New York Board of Trade. “I had no idea what I was in for,” she says. In just a few weeks, though, she realized she loved the challenge of coffee trading as much as her father did. After a year in New York, she returned to New Orleans and joined her father. “I found my dream job,” she says. Both she and her father have served as president of the Southern Coffee Association.

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Perlis Clothing

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t was tough sledding when Rogers Perlis opened his men’s clothing store on Magazine Street in 1939. Perlis, who had grown up in a children’s home, worked at his fledgling shop six days a week. On Sundays, he traveled from neighborhood to neighborhood, selling high quality used clothing he had mended and pressed. His efforts paid off: today, people from all over know Perlis Clothing, the store with the crawfish logo. Perlis sells clothes for men, women and children, as well as school uniforms. It also rents formal wear. In addition to its Magazine Street location, Perlis has stores in Mandeville and Baton Rouge, plus Cajun Clothing Co. shops at the airport and Jax Brewery, as well as a thriving online business. The store is still family-owned. Rogers Perlis’s son, David G. Perlis, is chairman, and his son, David W., is president. It remains to see how many of the five children in the family’s fourth generation have retail in their blood. As children, David G. Perlis and his sister helped out at the store, earning a penny for each suit they dusted. He opted for a legal career, but after graduating from Tulane’s law school, he realized he missed the shop and returned to work for his father. (His sister, Sharon, did make law her career.) As the years went by, David G. watched how careful his father was, never biting off more than the business could handle and paying off each expansion and renovation before attempting another. David W. in turn grew up helping his father at the shop. “I always expected to join the family business someday, but not right out of college,” he says. But his father needed help with a newly purchased, sophisticated computer system, so in 1990, David W. agreed to come on board. He spent four years expanding the crawfish side of the business; his dad had come up with the logo and it was proving to be a big hit. The Mandeville store opened in 1994, and that spurred David W. to take on more responsibilities. The Baton Rouge shop opened two years ago. Hewing to the lessons his grandfather taught has enabled Perlis to thrive while so many other independently owned department stores have folded, David W. says. Those lessons include remaining fiscally conservative while bringing innovations on board and forming strong relationships with staff and customers. “I share those same principles,” he says.

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David W. Perlis and David G. Perlis


(Standing) Steven Geiling, Randy Geiling and Nick Geiling with (seated) Edwin Geiling Jr.


Geiling Auto Service Inc.

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teven Geiling isn’t crazy about Monday mornings at his family’s business, Geiling Auto Service Inc. That is because the Metairie shop gets calls from “shade tree mechanics” who tried to repair their cars themselves and found out the hard way that today’s cars require high-tech equipment and a lot more knowledge than in generations past. Geiling’s grandfather, Edwin Geiling Sr., founded his business in 1941. In ’87, Edwin Jr. bought the business. Edwin Jr.’s sons, Steven and Randy, are now co-owners. Steven Geiling’s son, Nick, came onboard two years ago. Edwin Jr. says he tried a few other careers before joining his father at the shop in 1959. “It’s kind of in your blood,” he says. His sons grew up with it, working in the shop and learning from their father. The business moved to its present location on Papworth Avenue in Metairie in 1973. They rent their previous location on Aris Avenue to another service shop, which also happens to be family-owned. A lot has changed since he learned to repair cars from his father, Steven Geiling says. “Before the 1980s, cars were a lot easier to work on,” he says, and you could learn by doing. Today, cars are complicated pieces of technology. He has mandatory monthly training every quarter for his employees, and repair shops must spend thousands of dollars to keep their computerized equipment up to date. You also have to be skilled at running a business, he points out, including marketing and adapting to social media. He says that people move so much now that you must constantly attract new customers. When the business is a family business, you also have to learn to separate work and home, especially when his wife comes into the shop several times a week to help with paperwork, and his aunt fields calls for service. Geiling stays active with the Automobile Service Association and stays very involved with the fast-changing industry. Apparently, auto repair shops tend to pass from generation to generation; 90 percent of the association’s member shops were family owned as of 2013. The average association member is 53, Geiling says, which illustrates the need to attract more young people to the profession. That should get easier as technology increases and students realize that being an auto mechanic is more about brains than brawn.

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Boudreaux’s Jewelers

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any a delighted New Orleanian has found a special something in a package topped with a “Boudreaux bow.” A family business for four generations, Boudreaux’s Jewelers prides itself in creating items that become family heirlooms. The company has weathered the Great Depression, economic recessions and Hurricane Katrina, thriving by building relationships with customers and by bringing young family members into the firm to keep its inventory fresh. Gilmore Boudreaux, who founded the jewelry shop in 1933, in a shop off Baronne Street, was a craftsman who gained a reputation for making and repairing fine jewelry, especially religious items such as chalices and crosses. He created jewelry for a number of retail jewelers. Boudreaux’s son, Donald, joined the business after finishing college in the 1950s. Still active today, Donald Boudreaux says when he worked at his dad’s shop during summer vacations, he loved the way broken or neglected jewelry items came in looking unattractive and left looking “gorgeous” after being repaired and polished. “Our dad instilled a great work ethic in his sons,” says one of Donald’s sons, Brian Boudreaux, 56. Brian, like his brothers Tommy, 46, and Donny, 48, grew up around the business and did jobs such as gift-wrapping when they were young. Donald Boudreaux moved the downtown shop to Metairie Road in 1985, anticipating a growing market in the suburbs. Brian now runs that location and his son, Brandon, 23, joined him recently after graduating from Tulane University and studying at the Gemological Institute of America in California. The company opened its Mandeville shop in 1995. Tommy Boudreaux, who manages that location, says he always wanted to go into the business. He prepared by working for several other jewelers, to gain experience. When Hurricane Katrina hobbled both shops, the Boudreauxs decided another move was in order and opened a Baton Rouge location in 2005. Donny Boudreaux, an LSU grad, had worked as a landscape architect for several years before taking the helm of the Baton Rouge store. Brian Boudreaux says one reason the family business has endured is its expertise in engagement and wedding rings, as well as its ability to create and repair jewelry. Brandon adds that the store’s lines of semiprecious stones offer affordable and fashion-forward choices for younger buyers. A while ago, Brandon Boudreaux helped an older woman who was a longtime customer. She paid him a compliment, he says, when she told him “I could tell after 30 seconds you were a Boudreaux.”

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(seated center) David Boudreaux Sr., (seated left) Thomas Boudreaux, (standing from left) Brian Boudreaux, Donald Boudreaux Jr. and Brandon Boudreaux

myneworleans.com / OCTOBER 2014

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mark DeFelice, Sandy DeFelice, Bob Defelice and Ginny Defelice

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Pascal’s Manale

n May 1892, Frank Manale left his home in the small town of Contessa Entellina, Sicily, and sailed to New Orleans. Some 21 years later, he opened a restaurant on the corner of Napoleon Avenue and Dryades Street and hired his nephew, Pascal Radosta, to tend bar. When Manale died in 1937, Radosta bought the restaurant from Frank Manale’s wife. He renamed the restaurant Pascal’s Manale, and ran it until his death in ’58. So begins the story of how Pascal’s Manale became a fixture in the New Orleans dining scene. The restaurant, perhaps best known for its barbecue shrimp dish, has been owned by a variety of family members ever since. Today, Sandy DeFelice and other members of his family run the restaurant; Sandy is Pascal Radosta’s grandson. He and his siblings are the fourth generation of family to work at the eatery, and several of his children along with a nephew are the fifth. The lineage gets a little complicated, but DeFelice says the recipe for the restaurant’s success is simple. Credit goes to dedicated, longtime staff members, the hard work of so many family members and the way both locals and visitors make meals at Pascal’s Manale one of their own family traditions. Not long ago, he says, a couple told him they had dined there 26 years ago when they became engaged, and were happy to see the restaurant was just as they remembered it. Parents come to eat when they bring their sons and daughters for visits to Tulane University, and lots of Tulane grads visit the restaurant when they come back for reunions. You won’t get the famed barbecue shrimp recipe out of DeFelice, but he will tell you the dish originated when Pascal Radosta, his brother Jake and a friend did some experimentation in the kitchen and came up with the dish sometime around 1952. The name is misleading, as the shrimp aren’t barbecued, but that doesn’t matter to the hungry customers who love to dip their French bread into the rich, garlicky sauce. “It’s still a popular dish,” says DeFelice. He knows lots of other restaurants make their own versions, but that doesn’t worry him. “Some come close, some are so far away.” Running a restaurant isn’t a 9-to-5 job, DeFelice points out. It takes a lot of preparation to open it up and a lot to close it at the end of the day. But he says his family wouldn’t have it any other way; in an era when so many restaurants are chains, they take pride in running the one and only Pascal’s Manale, still in the same spot where it opened up 101 years ago. n

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Sushi Fest Displays Raw Talent by Kimberley Singletary / Photographed by Marianna Massey

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n New Orleans we live for two things: food and festivals. In fact, some of the most anticipated festivals of the year are focused all around a specific food – including oysters, Creole tomatoes and poor boys. But there is one food that has never been celebrated in the Crescent City – that is until Aug. 17, when more than 3,000 people attended the city’s first-ever New Orleans Sushi Fest and Competition. Held at the River City Ballroom next to Mardi Gras World, the event was presented by New Orleans Magazine, in partnership with East Jefferson General Hospital. The festival was prefaced with a VIP Japanese Tea Ceremony, sponsored by Sapporo, held from 1 to 2 p.m. Tickets to the reception were $50 in advance and sold out far before the event. At 2 p.m., the Sushi Festival officially began in the adjacent ballroom. While Taiko drummers pounded away below giant paper lanterns, women dressed as geisha high atop stilts wandered through the ballroom as crowds poured in. Admission was $10 in advance, $20 at the door, with a portion of the proceeds benefiting the Japan Society of New Orleans and the Japan Club of New Orleans. With 17 local restaurants represented, the New Orleans Sushi Fest truly offered something for everyone – from traditional sushi favorites, to creative twists, such as 12 Seasons Catering’s Asian pork nachos, fried wantons topped with pork, a jalapeño cilantro slaw and sriracha crema. The music also ranged from traditional Japanese to very non-traditional stylings of local celebrated cover band Bag of Donuts. Billed as a family-friendly event, the festival featured a kid’s craft area where little ones made paper lanterns with glow sticks and had their name written out in Japanese. Even new walkers enjoyed toddling around on a giant padded mat while the sumo wrestlers were on break. About halfway through the festival, awards were presented in 17 categories, with the biggest wins go-

ing to Grand Champion Daiwa Sushi Restaurant and People’s Choice winner Rock-n-Sake Bar & Sushi. New Orleanian Scott Schouest agrees with the judges, praising Daiwa’s simplicity. He says when he heard about the Sushi Fest he had to bring his friend Keith Clifton, visiting from Michigan. “Keith was supposed to go home yesterday but we found out about this event and we knew we had to go, so Keith moved his flight until tomorrow,” Schouest says. “What can I say, that’s the power of New Orleans and sushi.” Todd Matherne, CEO of Renaissance Publishing, publishers of New Orleans Magazine, was more than happy with the turnout. “For a first time event, we were thrilled to be welcomed by so many people,” he says. “We look forward to expanding next year and creating an even more exciting festival.” n

Inaugural New Orleans Sushi Fest and Competition Winners Grand Champion: Daiwa Sushi Restaurant, People’s Choice: Rock-n-Sake Bar & Sushi, Vice-Consul of Japan’s Favorite: Samehada Roll at Rock-n-Sake Bar & Sushi, Best Presentation: Lakeview Pearl, Most Colorful: Samurai Roll at Daiwa Sushi Restaurant, Best Texture Combination: Ruby Roll at Lakeview Pearl, Most Elegant Roll: Lady In Red at Vitascope Hall, Best Use of Wasabi: Emerald Roll & Mice at Lakeview Pearl, Most Innovative: Japanese Cucumber Cold Seafood Udon Bowl at Daiwa Sushi Restaurant, Healthiest Dish: Tsunami Tsnapper at Tsunami Sushi, Best Japanese Infusion: Beet-cured Salmon Carpaccio at Aloha Sushi, Best Use of Local Produce: Strawberry Satsuma Roll at Chiba, Best NOLA-Centric Crossover: Oysters Ya-Ka-Mein at Miss Linda’s Soulfood Catering, Brightest Flavors: NOLA Storm Roll at Vitascope Hall, Best Handroll: TNT Handroll at Daiwa Sushi Restaurant, Best Unexpected Ingredient: Unicorn Roll at Rock-n-Sake Bar & Sushi, Best Adaptive Use: Cowboy Roll at Daiwa Sushi Restaurant


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the MENU TABLE TALK

table talk pg. 82

“Owned by Pauline and Stephen Patterson, Treo’s ceiling is given over to an eye-catchign installation that details the various wards of New Orleans.”

jeffery johnston PHOTOGRAPH

RESTAURANT INSIDER

FOOD

LAST CALL

DINING LISTINGS


THE MENU / TABLE TALK

Gastropub Redux Three places new to the scene BY JAY FORMAN

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raft cocktail menus entwined with explorative dining continue to evolve in New Orleans. This niche dining genre, well-enough established now to have moved beyond the term “trend,” was pioneered locally in part by chef Chris Debarr formerly of Delachaise. Debarr has moved on, but gastropub newcomers including Treo, The Franklin and Cane & Table, among others, continue to move the concept forward. Pauline and Stephen Patterson, owners of Finn McCool’s Irish Pub on Banks Street in Mid-City, recently opened Treo on Tulane Avenue. Treo joins a small crop of early adopters, like Namese,

Practicing Pubs

Treo 3835 Tulane Ave. 304-4878 TreoNola.com Lunch and dinner, Tuesdays through Saturdays 82

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The Franklin 2600 Dauphine St. 267-0640 Dinner into late-night nightly

placing bets on a part of town that until now had not seen much upside. Time will tell if it was prescient, but in the meantime Treo is well worth a visit. If you go, be sure to cast your eyes skyward. Treo’s ceiling is given over to an eye-catching installation that details the various wards of New Orleans. The walls are flanked with contemporary pieces and the upstairs serves as an art gallery. Their chef, James Cullen, got rolled into the project in part due to time spent watching Saints games at Finn’s. “I think my biggest qualification for a long time was the fact that I lived across the street from Finn’s,” he jokes. A graduate of the French Culinary Institute in New York, he brings with him a resume that includes a lengthy stint at the highly regarded Pearl Oyster Bar in Manhattan. A native of New Jersey, prior to Treo he was the chef at St. Lawrence in the French Quarter, another bar that puts special focus on its cuisine.

Cane & Table 1113 Decatur St. 581-1112 CaneAndTableNola.com Brunch Sundays, lunch Saturdays and dinner nightly

jeffery johnston PHOTOGRAPH


Colonial Fare Made Local Cane & Table in the French Quarter stakes out a claim of “Rustic Colonial Cuisine with Proto-tiki Cocktails.” The term Colonial can be broadly interpreted of course, and the menu takes advantage of this, with inspiration ranging from Southeast Asia to the Caribbean. The heart of it is mostly centered on West Indies-style fare, with some creative vegetarian twists to accompany its locally sourced meats. Try the callas, which most recently came accompanied by a homemade pineapple jam. Cullen’s approach is grounded in relatively familiar fare, then uses tapas as a jumping off point. “I wanted to give a nod to the Spanish influence in New Orleans food, which doesn’t really get a lot of attention,” he says. Take for example his Fried Oysters with Remoulade. A familiar enough dish, but his includes smoked paprika in the remoulade and shaved Manchego in the garnish to put forward some Spanish flair. Whatever he puts out, Cullen makes an effort to connect it back to the tradition of New Orleans food. He often runs a fried chicken dish with garlic pursillade and B&B pickle chips as a special, inspired by Creole culinary icon chef Austin Leslie. One of Cullen’s most popular hybrid dishes is the mussels, prepared in the style of barbecue shrimp but with a few notable modifications. The mussels are cooked in butter, shallot and garlic, and then

steamed open with brandy and white wine. In a separate pan, Cullen builds the sauce with Creole mustard, cream and butter. Crystal hot sauce, pepper and Worcestershire round out the notes. Poured over the mussels, the result is a creamier, more complex variation on a local theme. It is accompanied by bread from Bellegarde bakery. Across the street from the Lost Love Lounge in the Marigny where Dauphine Street takes an odd little jag is The Franklin, an atmospheric craft cocktail lounge with a menu grounded in French bistro fare made distinctive by idiosyncratic quirks. The kitchen was initially helmed by Jim Bremer, though at press time it had changed hands, with former sous chef Zack Tippen now in charge. A protégé of Gerard Maras, Tippen’s (and Bremer’s) respect for produce is one common thread shot through the menu at The Franklin. Creative salads like one featuring peppery garden greens get a juke from the impactful Kefir lime and curry dressing. More esoteric approaches include lightly fried Avocado Tempura, which comes garnished with lump crabmeat. Still, the heart of the menu is essentially comfort food, albeit with a few twists (one dish getting a lot of attention is the Escargot Éclair with Blue Cheese Mousse, as well as Steak “à la Mode” with Foie Gras Ice Cream. “Most of what we serve is classic bistro fare and put our own little spin on it. But even those are pretty straightforward,” Tippen says. “What you read on the menu is what you get.” Bellweather dishes like a rustic Coq au Vin as well as a locally tailored Courtbouillon are examples of these. Going into fall look for earthy, one-pot style fare to add to the appeal. n

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THE MENU / RESTAURANT INSIDER

newly found places AJ&J Asian Bistro, Mr. Ed’s Oyster Bar & Fish House and Latitude 29 BY ROBERT PEYTON

AJ&J Asian Bistro

Mr. Ed’s Oyster Bar & Fish House

Latitude 29

AJ&J Asian Bistro opened earlier this summer at 2240 Magazine St. The location is just down the block and across the street from Stein’s Deli and District Donuts and Sliders, which is how I noticed it many months ago when the place was still under construction. (I end up at either District or Stein’s once every couple of weeks, those places are outstanding.) AJ&J is, in my experience, that rare restaurant that can pull off “pan-Asian” cooking. The sushi menu is fairly serious, by which I mean they offer things like sea urchin, toro, abalone and live scallop, and also that some of those things are not always available. Unless you’re paying close to $200 per person, you don’t want a sushi restaurant where the entire menu is always available – you want the fish to be fresh, and that means they’ll run out of things from time to time. If you like rolls, they have those, too, in an abundance of varieties. The restaurant also serves Chinese and Thai food, with an emphasis on stir-fried, curries and noodle dishes. AJ&J is open from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Mondays through Thursdays, to 11 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays and until 9 p.m. on Sundays. Call 609-2282 to find out more, including whether you are in the restaurant’s delivery area – they deliver to customers within 2 miles.

I frequently get asked by people staying in the French Quarter for a recommendation along these lines: “Someplace we can get New Orleans food, but not too expensive and nothing fancy.” There are a lot of places along those lines in the French Quarter, but not all that many I’d recommend. So I was pleased to stumble across Mr. Ed’s Oyster Bar & Fish House at 512 Bienville St. recently. The restaurant is a fairly narrow space carved out of a former parking garage in a luxury condominium building, with about 35 seats on the first floor and another 60 or so on the second. There is an open kitchen at the rear of the first-floor dining room and full bars on both levels. Mr. Ed’s restaurant empire (including the first iteration of this restaurant on 21st Street in Metairie) is built on consistently good food, and the new place doesn’t need to break culinary ground to be successful. There are a few different charbroiled oyster preparations, boiled and fried seafood, poor boys and a seafood muffuletta, and red beans with sausage, fried catfish or stuffed crab. Mr. Ed’s Oyster Bar & Fish House is open seven days a week from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., though those hours may be extended. Call 309-4848 to make sure.

Latitude 29 was born at Tales of the Cocktail, the international celebration of spirits that takes place every July. Tales is why Tiki cocktail expert Jeff “Beachbum” Berry first came to New Orleans, and when he did, he and his wife Annene stayed at the Bienville House hotel. Berry had been looking for a place to open a bar and restaurant, and when Iris closed earlier this year he found it. The restaurant is still a work in progress, but it should be open and serving tropical cocktails and southeast Asian food this month. Berry picked Chris Shortall to be the executive chef, which at first blush would seem to be an odd pick, but Shortall is versatile; he’s worked locally at two of the best restaurants in New Orleans – August and Coquette – and has a background in Thai cooking as well. I have no inside knowledge of the business end of things, of course, but I have a great fondness for Berry’s approach to both cocktails and food. I will be there when the place opens and will update you as to the experience. I hope there are enough people like me to make the place a success. Latitude 29 is, as noted above, located in the Bienville House hotel at 321 N. Peters St. No hours or phone number as yet. n

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left & middle photos: Craig Mulcahy left photo: sara essex bradley


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THE MENU / FOOD

Green Day

Cooking from the garden BY DALE CURRY

EUGENIA UHL PHOTOGRAPH

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Sautéed Kale 1 pound baby kale 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil 1/3 cup chopped red onion 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes 2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar 1 Tablespoon sugar Salt and pepper to taste Rinse kale well and remove tough stems. Chop roughly. Heat oil in a large, heavy pot. Sauté red onion and garlic for about 1 minute. Add kale and sauté for 5 minutes, stirring frequently until almost tender. Add red pepper flakes, vinegar, sugar and seasonings, cover and simmer over low heat until tender, about 40 minutes. Serves 4

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y mother always said that greens were better after the first frost. That is when my dad would pick them in his huge garden behind our yard. He grew mustard, collard and turnip greens. It took a good frost to add sweetness to the greens, they said. I never ate them as a child, but now they’re one of my favorites. I must admit that I’m trying hard to like kale, the “in” vegetable that has only recently become popular on Southern tables. My favorite way to eat greens is smothered in a big, heavy pot with some kind of smoked pork seasoning, served with spicy buttermilk corn bread. Any way you eat them, greens are among the healthiest foods around. They are full of beta carotene and vitamins, and as my cousin used to say, “They’re good for the soul.” I am now experimenting with kale and have learned that you can sauté it, serve it in salads, fry it like chips or use it in slaw. I prefer it cooked and always use baby kale, which is more tender than mature kale. About a decade ago, greens, especially collard, became a favorite side in restaurants. They are frequently spiced up with andouille sausage, onions and garlic, not a far cry from the Deep South version with bacon or ham hock, and always served with cornbread. I guess you can call it “country cooking,” because I remember when local restaurants served only French bread and greens were rarely on a menu. Food was more sophisticated in New Orleans then, with its French and Italian influences. Now, chefs have no qualms about serving greens with pork seasoning, although the food police – as nutritionists were often called a few years back – has declared fatty pork taboo. But I haven’t seen any outcry over over pork belly; it’s currently one of the hottest items on menus. I don’t grow any greens, but I’m waiting for the first cold spell to put greens on my table on a regular basis. However, I’m not above enjoying the new bags of greens, washed just like salad greens, in the grocery stores. I will also be looking for greens right off the farm at our farmers’ markets around town. Even kale.

Southern Greens

Cajun Collard Greens

Buttermilk Cornbread

2 bunches greens, about 2 pounds (mustard, turnip and/or collard) 1 Tablespoon vegetable oil 1 medium onion, chopped 2 pieces thick bacon, 2 ham hocks or 1 cup ham chunks 1 teaspoon sugar 1 teaspoon cider vinegar Salt and pepper to taste

2 bunches collard greens or about 2 pounds with stems 2 Tablespoons vegetable oil 1/2 pound andouille sausage, cut in halfinch rounds 1 medium onion 2 cloves garlic, minced 3 dashes hot sauce 3 Tablespoons cider vinegar 1 Tablespoon sugar Salt and pepper to taste 1/2 cup water

1/4 cup vegetable oil 1 egg 1 cup cornmeal 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder 1/4 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon sugar 1 cup buttermilk

Rinse greens thoroughly. Trim off any thick stalks. If using turnip greens, trim off turnips, rinse well, cut into half-inch slices and set aside. Heat oil in a large, heavy pot. Sauté meat and add onion and cook for a few minutes. Add greens, sugar, vinegar, salt and pepper, and reduce heat to low. Cover and let greens cook down for 15 minutes. They will begin to make their own juice. Stir a time or two. When greens are cooked down, add about 1 cup of water. Cover and simmer over low heat, stirring occasionally, until greens are tender. This should take about 30 minutes. If using turnips, place turnip slices on top of the greens in the last 15 minutes of cooking to steam, sprinkling them with salt and pepper. Serve with cornbread, preferably homemade buttermilk cornbread, slices of sweet onions or whole green onions and pepper sauce. Serves 4 to 6

Rinse greens well, discarding tough stems. Chop roughly. Heat oil in a large, heavy pot. Add sausage and brown on both sides. Add onion and sauté. Stir in greens and other ingredients except water, reduce heat, cover and cook until greens wilt – about 15 minutes – stirring a couple of times. Add water, cover and simmer over low heat until greens are tender, about 30 minutes. Serve with cornbread, preferably homemade buttermilk cornbread, sweet onions or green onions and pepper sauce. Serves 6

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Pour oil into an 8-inch baking pan and swirl around on sides of pan. Place in oven to heat while you are mixing cornbread. In a medium bowl, beat egg. Add cornmeal, baking powder, baking soda, salt and sugar and mix well with a whisk. Pour in buttermilk and mix well. Pour into hot pan. It should sizzle. Place in oven for about 20 minutes. Cornbread should be medium brown on top; if not, put under broiler for 1 minute. Note: If you like to spice up cornbread, add 1 Tablespoon or more of chopped jalapeño pepper and 1/2-cup sharp cheddar cheese. You might also opt for 1/3cup cooked corn. n

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THE MENU / LAST CALL

A Real Possibility the Super Bowl – The Drink BY tim mcnally

N

ew Orleans hasn’t come this far by being overwhelmed with negative thoughts. Crescent City true believers desired to put this city back together after Hurricane Katrina, and they wanted to do it right. It has been nine years and two months since more than 80 percent of the city was under the waters of Lake Pontchartrain and the Gulf of Mexico, and the work at hand isn’t done yet. But we’ve come a long way, baby. Positive thoughts have taken root both in our community and within our collective psyches. We really believe we can achieve great results by pulling together and doing the hard work. We need to keep going. That also means supporting a very young, inexperienced but well-coached LSU football team; head-

ing to the new stadium Uptown in its inaugural year to cheer on the Tulane Green Wave; and dreaming the ultimate dream the Saints returning to the Super Bowl. In that spirit, one of our newest New Orleanians, the renowned author and lecturer and now the brains and brawn behind a new restaurant and bar, Latitude 29, in the French Quarter, Jeff “Beachbum” Berry – the ultimate definer of today’s Tiki culture – has done what he does best and created the Super Bowl. Made to be shared, both in liquid and positive vibes, this drink can put us in the proper frame of mind to root, root, root for all of our home teams.

Super Bowl 3 ounces fresh orange juice 2 ounces fresh lemon juice 1 ounce vanilla syrup 1 ounce passion fruit syrup 3 ounces Sazerac Rye whiskey Shake all ingredients with ice cubes. Pour into a Tiki bowl. Add more cubes to fill. Garnish with an ice cone in the center of a bowl, topped with a flaming “victory torch” and orange wheels on the side – and of course, Saints-logo cocktail umbrellas. Serve with 2 long straws. Serves 2 “Because a Bum can Dream” By Beachbum Berry, Proprietor of Latitude 29 Latitude 29 Restaurant and Bar, 321 N. Peters St., Latitude29nola.com

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sara essex bradley PHOTOGRAPH


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THE MENU / DINING GUIDE H= New Orleans Magazine award winner / $ = Average entrée price. $ = $5-10 / $$ = $11-15 / $$$ = $16-20 / $$$$ = $21-25 / $$$$$ = $25 and up.

American

Zea’s Rotisserie and Grill Multiple Locations, ZeaRestaurants.com. L, D daily. Drawing from a wide range of worldly influences, this popular restaurant serves a variety of grilled items as well as appetizers, salads, side dishes, seafood, pasta and other entrées. Also offers catering services. $$$

Bywater–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Elizabeth’s 601 Gallier St., 944-9272, ElizabethsRestaurantNola.com. B, L MonFri, D Mon-Sat, Br Sat-Sun. This eclectic local restaurant draws rave reviews for its praline bacon and distinctive Southern-inspired brunch specials. $$$

H Maurepas 3200 Burgundy St., 2670072, MaurepasFoods.com. D Thu-Tue, Br Sat-Sun. Pioneering farm-to-table restaurant with an ingredient-driven menu that changes daily. Clever cocktails a plus as well. $$ Satsuma Café 3218 Dauphine St., 3045962, SatsumaCafe.com. B, L daily (until 5 p.m.). Offers healthy, inspired breakfast and lunch fare, along with freshly squeezed juices. $

CITY PARK––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Café NOMA, 1 Collins Diboll Circle, NO Museum of Art, City Park, 482-1264, CafeNoma.com. L, (snacks) Tue-Sun. Sleek bar and café in the ground floor of museum offers a thoughtful array of snacks, sandwiches and small plates that are sure to enchant, with a kids’ menu to boot. $$

CBD/Warehouse District––––––––––– The Grill Room Windsor Court Hotel, 300 Gravier St., 522-1992, GrillRoomNewOrleans.com. B, L, D daily, Br Sun. Featuring modern American cuisine with a distinctive New Orleans flair, the adjacent Polo Club Lounge offers live music nightly. Jazz Brunch on Sunday. $$$$$ Manning’s 519 Fulton St., 593-8118. L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Born of a partnership between New Orleans’ First Family of Football and Harrah’s Casino, Manning’s offers sports bar fans a step up in terms of comfort and quality. With a menu that

draws on both New Orleans and the Deep South, traditional dishes get punched up with inspired but accessible twists in surroundings accented by both memorabilia and local art. $$$ Pete’s Pub Intercontinental Hotel, 444 St. Charles Ave., 585-5401, IcNewOrleans.com/dining/petes_pub. D Mon-Fri. Casual fare and adult beverages are served in this pub on the ground floor. $$

H Root 200 Julia St., 252-9480, RootNola. com. L Mon-Fri, D daily. Chef Philip Lopez opened Root in November 2011 and has garnered a loyal following for his modernist, eclectic cuisine. Try the country fried chicken wings and the Cohiba-smoked scallops crusted with chorizo. $$$$

H Restaurant August 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 299-9777, RestaurantAugust.com. L Fri, D daily. James Beard Award-winning chef John Besh’s menu is based on classical techniques of Louisiana cuisine and produce with a splash of European flavor set in an historic carriage warehouse. $$$$$ Tivoli & Lee 2 Lee Circle, 962-0909, TivoliAndLee.com. B, L, D daily, Br SatSun. Progressive Southern cuisine is the focus. Rabbit sliders, poke salad and pickled shrimp redefine locally sourced ingredients, and craft cocktail and bourbon menus round out the appeal. Craft cocktail bar Bellocq serves specialty and locally influenced libations. $$$ Walk-On’s Bistreaux & Bar 1009 Poydras St., 309-6530, Walk-Ons.com. L, D, daily. Burger, sandwiches, wraps and more made distinctive with a Louisiana twist are served at this sports bar near the Mercedes-Benz Superdome. $$ Warehouse Grille, 869 Magazine St., 322-2188, WarehouseGrille.com. L, D daily, Br Fri-Sun. Creative fare served in an art-filled environment. Try the duck crêpes or the lamb spring rolls. $$ Wolfe’s in the Warehouse 859 Convention Center Blvd., 613-2882. B, L, D daily. Chef Tom Wolfe brings his refined cuisine to the booming Fulton Street corridor. His Smoked Kobe Short Ribs are a good

choice. $$$

Downtown–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Camellia Grill 540 Chartres St., 5221800. B, L, D daily. A venerable diner whose essential character has remained intact and many of the original waiters have returned. This location has a liquor license and credit cards are now accepted. $

Faubourg Marigny–––––––––––––––––– The Marigny Brasserie 640 Frenchmen St., 945-4472, MarignyBrasserie.com. L, D daily. Chic neighborhood bistro with traditional dishes like the Wedge of Lettuce salad and innovative cocktails such as the cucumber Cosmo. $$$ Snug Harbor 626 Frenchman St., 949-0696, SnugJazz.com. D daily. This jazz club serves cocktails and a dining menu loaded with steaks, seafood and meaty burgers served with loaded baked potatoes. $$$$

French Quarter–––––––––––––––––––––– Hard Rock Café 125 Bourbon St., 5295617, HardRock.com. L, D daily. Local outpost of this global brand serves burgers, café fare and drinks in their rock memorabilia-themed environs. $$ The Pelican Club 312 Exchange Place, 523-1504, PelicanClub.com. D daily. Serves an eclectic mix of hip food, from the seafood “martini” to clay-pot barbecued shrimp and a trio of duck. Three dining rooms available. $$$$$ Rib Room Omni Royal Orleans Hotel, 621 St. Louis St., 529-7046, RibRoomNewOrleans.com. L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Old World elegance and high ceilings, house classic cocktails and Anthony Spizale’s broad menu of prime rib, stunning seafood and on weekends a champagne brunch. $$$

GARDEN DISTRICT–––––––––––––––––––––––– Cheesecake Bistro by Copeland’s, 2001 St. Charles Ave., 593-9955, CopelandsCheesecakeBistro.com. L, D daily. Shiny, contemporary bistro serves Cajun-fusion fare along with its signature decadent desserts. Good lunch value to boot. $$

Metairie–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– café B, 2700 Metairie Road, 934-4700, cafeB.com. D daily, L Mon-Sat. Br Sun. Ralph Brennan offers New American bistro fare with a Louisiana twist at this family-friendly neighborhood spot. $$$ Heritage Grill, 111 Veterans Memorial Blvd., 934-4900, HeritageGrillMetairie. com. L Mon-Fri. This lunch-only destination caters to the office crowd and offers a freshly squeezed juice menu to go along with its regular menu and express two-course lunch. $$ Martin Wine Cellar 714 Elmer Ave., 8967300, MartinWine.com. Wine by the glass or bottle to go with daily lunch specials, towering burgers, hearty soups and salads and giant, deli-style sandwiches. $ Vega Tapas Café 2051 Metairie Road, 836-2007, VegaTapasCafe.com. D Mon-Sat. Innovative establishment offers fresh seafood, grilled meats and vegetarian dishes in a chic environment. Daily chef specials showcase unique ingredients and make this place a popular destination for dates as well as groups of friends. $$

Mid-City–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Parkway Bakery and Tavern 538 Hagan Ave., 482-3047, ParkwayPoorBoys.com. L, D Wed-Mon. Featured on national TV and having served poor boys to presidents, it stakes a claim to some of the best sandwiches in town. Their french fry version with gravy and cheese is a classic at a great price. $

NORTHSHORE–––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Dakota 629 N. Highway 190, (985) 892-3712, TheDakotaRestaurant.com. L Tue-Fri, D Mon-Sat. A sophisticated dining experience with generous portions. $$$$$

Riverbend–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Carrollton Market 8132 Hampson St., 252-9928, CarrolltonMarket.com. D TueSat. Modern Southern cuisine manages to be both fun and refined at this tasteful boîte. $$$

Uptown–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Audubon Clubhouse 6500 Magazine

New Asian-Inspired Cocktails at Lakeview Pearl Lakeview Pearl, 6300 Canal Blvd., 309-5711, LakeviewPearl.com Sake may be the traditional accompaniment to a good sushi roll, but at Lakeview Pearl Sushi Bar and Asian Bistro there are some delicious new alternatives. Asian-inspired cocktails, such as the Green Tea Martini, Geisha Blossom Martini, Sake Blue Margarita and Tokyo Sunrise Mimosa, are now being poured. The new libations join an award-winning menu that includes the Ruby Roll (spicy tuna and crab highlighted with a raspberry purée) and the Emerald Roll (fresh salmon finished with a fiery jalapeño garlic sauce). – Mirella Cameran

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St., 212-5282, AudubonInstitute.org. B, L Tue-Sat, Br Sun. A kid-friendly menu with local tweaks and a casually upscale sandwich and salad menu. $$ Camellia Grill 626 S. Carrollton Ave., 3092679. B, L, D daily. A venerable diner whose essential character has remained intact and many of the original waiters have returned. Credit cards are now accepted. $ Cheesecake Bistro by Copeland’s 2001 St. Charles Ave., 593-9955, CopelandsCheesecakeBistro.com. L, D daily, Br Sun. Dessert fans flock to this sweetcentric Copeland establishment which also offers extensive lunch and dinner menus. $$$

H The Company Burger 4600 Freret St., 267-0320, TheCompanyBurger.com. L, D Wed-Mon. Custom-baked butter-brushed buns and fresh-ground beef patties make all the difference at this excellent burger hotspot. Draft beer and craft cocktails round out the appeal. $ GG’s Dine-O-Rama 3100 Magazine St., 373-6579, GGsNewOrleans.com. B Sat, L, Tue-Sun, D Tue-Fri, Br Sun. Upscalecasual restaurant serves a variety of specialty sandwiches, salads and wraps, like the Chicago-style hot dog and the St. Paddy’s Day Massacre, chef Gotter’s take on the Rueben. $$ Martin Wine Cellar 3500 Magazine St., 894-7420, MartinWine.com. Wine by the glass or bottle with cheeses and snacks to-go. $ Slim Goodies 3322 Magazine St., 891

EGGS (3447), SlimGoodiesDiner.com. B, L daily. This diner offers an exhaustive menu heavily influenced by local cuisine. Try the Creole Slammer, a breakfast platter rounded out by crawfish étouffée. The laid-back vibe is best enjoyed on the patio out back. $ Stein’s Market and Deli 2207 Magazine St., 527-0771, SteinsDeli.net. B, L, D TueSun. New York City meets New Orleans. The Reuben and Rachel sandwiches are the real deal and the half-sours and pickled tomatoes complete the deli experience. $ Surrey’s Café and Juice Bar 1418 Magazine St., 524-3828; 4807 Magazine St., 895-5757, SurreysCafeAndJuiceBar. com. B, L daily. Laid-back café focuses on breakfast and brunch dishes to accompany freshly squeezed juice offerings. Health-food lovers will like it here, along with fans of favorites such as peanut butter and banana pancakes. Cash only. $$ Tracey’s Irish Restaurant & Bar 2604 Magazine St., 897-5413, TraceysNola. com. L, D daily. A neighborhood bar with one of the best messy roast beef poor boys in town. The gumbo, cheeseburger poor boy and other sandwiches are also winners. Grab a local Abita beer to wash it all down. Also a great location to watch the game. $

H Upperline 1413 Upperline St., 891-9822, Upperline.com. D Wed-Sun. Consummate hostess JoAnn Clevenger and talented chef Dave Bridges make for a winning combination at this nationally

heralded favorite. The oft-copied fried green tomatoes with shrimp remoulade originated here. $$$$

takes on Japanese favorites in an upbeat, casual setting. $$$

H Wayfare 4510 Freret St., 309-0069,

V Sushi 821 Iberville St., 609-2291, VSushiMartini.com. D daily, late-night. Creative rolls and a huge list of fusion dishes keep party-lovers going late into the night at this combination sushi and martini bar. $$$

WayfareNola.com. L, D daily. Creative sandwiches and southern-inspired small plates. $$ Ye Olde College Inn 3000 S. Carrollton Ave., 866-3683, CollegeInn1933.com. D Tue-Sat. Serves up classic fare, albeit with a few upscale dishes peppering the menu. $$$

Asian Fusion/ Pan Asian Little Tokyo Multiple locations, LittleTokyoNola.com. L, D daily. Multiple locations of this popular Japanese sushi and hibachi chain make sure that there’s always a specialty roll within easy reach. $$

CBD/Warehouse District––––––––––– Horinoya 920 Poydras St., 561-8914. L, D daily. Excellent Japanese dining. The chu-toro is delicious and the selection of authentic Japanese appetizers is the best. $$$

H Lucky Rooster 515 Baronne St., 5295825, LuckyRoosterNola.com. L, D MonSat. Eclectic pan-Asian hotspot melds Vietnamese, Chinese and Korean fare with playful results. Try the KFC Chicken Wings or Korean barbecue banh mi. $$ Rock-N-Sake 823 Fulton St., 581-7253, RockNSake.com. L Fri, D Tue-Sun, late night. Fresh sushi and contemporary

French Quarter–––––––––––––––––––––––

Garden District––––––––––––––––––––––– Hoshun Restaurant 1601 St. Charles Ave., 302-9716, HoshunRestaurant.com. L, D daily. Offers a wide variety of Asian cuisines, primarily dishes culled from China, Japan, Thailand and Malaysia. Five-pepper calamari is a tasty way to begin the meal, and their creative sushi rolls are good. Private dining rooms available. $$

H Tan Dinh 1705 Lafayette St., 3618008. B, L, D daily. Roasted quail and the beef pho rule at this Vietnamese outpost. $$

Lakeview––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Lakeview Pearl 6300 Canal St., 3095711, LakeviewPearl.com. L, D Mon-Sat. A long list of specialty rolls rounds out the offerings of this Asian-Fusion restaurant. $$

Metairie–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Aloha Sushi 619 Pink St., 837-0055, SunRayGrill.com. L Tue-Fri, D, Tue-Sun. Fresh fish and creative rolls, along with gluten-free options such as rolls in bowls, sushi burritos and other lunch friendly Japanese fare featured. $$

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DINING GUIDE H Royal China 600 Veterans Blvd., 831-9633. L daily, D Tue-Sun. Popular and family-friendly Chinese restaurant is one of the few places around that serves dim sum. $$

MARRERO–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Daiwa, 5033 Lapalco Blvd., 875-4203, DaiwaSushi.com. L, D daily. Japanese destination on the Westbank serves an impressive and far-ranging array of creative fusion fare. $$$

Mid-City––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Café Minh 4139 Canal St., 482-6266, CafeMinh.com. L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat. Chef Minh Bui and Cynthia Vutran bring a fusion touch to Vietnamese cuisine with French accents and a contemporary flair. $$ Five Happiness 3605 S. Carrollton Ave., 482-3935, FiveHappiness.com. L, D daily. This longtime Chinese favorite offers up an extensive menu including its beloved mu shu pork and house-baked duck. $$

H MoPho 514 City Park Ave., 482-6845, MoPhoMidCity.com. L, D Wed-Mon. Vietnamese cuisine meets southern Louisiana in this upscale casual hybrid by chef Michael Gulotta. Mix-and-match pho and an interesting poor boy menu rounds out the appeal. $$$

Riverbend–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Ba Chi Canteen 7900 Maple St., 3735628. L, D Mon-Sat. The kitchen plays fast and loose with Vietnamese fare at this eclectic outpost on Maple Street. Try

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the caramelized pork “Baco”. $

H Chill Out Café 729 Burdette St., 8729628. B, L daily, D Mon-Sat. Thai food and breakfast favorites like waffles and pancakes can both be had at this affordable college-friendly hangout. $

Uptown–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Chiba 8312 Oak St., 826-9119, Chiba-Nola.com. L Wed-Sat, D Mon-Sat. Contemporary restaurant features fresh, exotic fish from all over the world and fusion fare to go along with typical Japanese options. Extensive sake list and late night happy hours are a plus. $$$

H Jung’s Golden Dragon 3009 Magazine St., 891-8280, JungsChinese.com. L, D daily. This Chinese destination is a real find. Along with the usual you’ll find spicy cold noodle dishes and dumplings. One of the few local Chinese places that breaks the Americanized mold. $

H Magasin 4201 Magazine St., 8967611, MagasinCafe.com. L, D Mon-Sat. Pho, banh mi and vegetarian options are offered at this attractive and budgetfriendly Vietnamese restaurant. Café sua da is available as well. $

Thu-Sat. The extensive Vietnamese menu specializes in hot pots, noodles and dishes big enough for everyone to share. $$

bakeshop tucked away near the levee on Oak Street serves breads, sandwiches, gluten-free and vegan-friendly options. $

Bakery/Breakfast

Morning Call 56 Dreyfous Drive, City Park, 885-4068, NewOrleansCityPark. com/in-the-park/morning-call. 24 hours a day; cash-only. Chicory coffee and beignets coated with powdered sugar make this the quintessential New Orleans coffee shop. $

City Park––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Café du Monde Multiple Locations, CafeDuMonde.com. This New Orleans institution has been serving fresh café au lait, rich hot chocolate and positively addictive beignets since 1862 in the French Market 24/7. $ CC’s Community Coffee House Multiple locations in New Orleans, Metairie and Northshore, CCsCoffee.com. Coffeehouse specializing in coffee, espresso drinks and pastries. $

CBD/Warehouse District––––––––––– H Merchant 800 Common St., 571-9580, MerchantNewOrleans.com. B, L daily. Illy coffee and creative crêpes, sandwiches and more are served at this sleek and contemporary café on the ground floor of the Merchant Building. $

H Ruby Slipper Café 200 Magazine St.,

Kyoto 4920 Prytania St., 891-3644, KyotoNola.com. L, D Mon-Sat. A neighborhood sushi restaurant where the regulars order off-the-menu rolls. $$

525-9355; 1005 Canal St., 525-9355, TheRubySlipperCafe.net. B, L daily, Br Sun. Homegrown chain specializes in breakfast, lunch and brunch dishes with unique local twists such as bananas Foster French toast and barbecue shrimp and grits. $$

WEST BANK–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

CARROLLTON–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

Nine Roses 1100 Stephen St., 366-7665, NineRosesResturant.com. L, D Sun-Tue,

Breads on Oak, 8640 Oak St., 324-8271, BreadsOnOak.com. B, L Wed-Sun. Artisan

Faubourg Marigny––––––––––––––––––– H Ruby Slipper Café 2001 Burgundy St., 525-9355, TheRubySlipperCafe.net. B, L daily, Br Sun. Homegrown chain specializes in breakfast, lunch and brunch dishes with unique local twists such as bananas Foster French toast and barbecue shrimp and grits. $$

Mid-City––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Gracious Bakery + Café 1000 S. Jeff Davis Parkway, Suite 100, 301-3709, GraciousBakery.com. B, L daily. Boutique bakery on the ground floor of the Woodward Building offers small-batch coffee, baked goods, individual desserts and sandwiches on breads made in-house. Catering options available. $

H Ruby Slipper Café 139 S. Cortez St., 525-9355, TheRubySlipperCafe.net. B, L daily, Br Sun. Homegrown chain specializes in breakfast, lunch and brunch dishes with unique local twists such as bananas Foster French toast and barbecue shrimp and grits. $$


Barbecue

Bywater–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– The Joint 701 Mazant St., 949-3232, AlwaysSmokin.com. L, D Mon-Sat. Some of the city’s best barbecue can be had at this locally owned and operated favorite. $

Lakeview–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

French Quarter–––––––––––––––––––––––

Lakeview Harbor 911 Harrison Ave., 486-4887, NewOrleansBestBurger.com. L, D daily. Burgers are the name of the game at this restaurant. Daily specials, pizza and steaks are offered as well. $

Broussard’s, 819 Conti St., 581-3866, Broussards.com. D daily, Br Sun. CreoleFrench institution also offers beautiful courtyard seating. $$$$

Lower Garden District––––––––––––– Voodoo BBQ 1501 St. Charles Ave., 5224647, VoodooBBQAndGrill.com. L, D daily. Diners are never too far from this homegrown barbecue chain that features an array of specialty sauces to accompany its smoked meats and seafood. $$

Metairie––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Voodoo BBQ 2740 Severn Ave., 353-4227, VoodooBBQAndGrill.com. L, D daily. Diners are never too far from this homegrown barbecue chain that features an array of specialty sauces to accompany its smoked meats and seafood. $$

METAIRIE–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Cheeseburger Eddie’s, 4517 W Esplanade Ave., 455-5511, AustinsNo. com/Cheeseburger-Eddie-s.html. L, D Mon-Sat. Hickory-grilled burgers are the main draw at this casual spot but tacos, tamales, poor boys and more are also served. $

Riverbend–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Cowbell 8801 Oak St., 298-8689, Cowbell-Nola.com. L, D Tue-Sat. Burgers and homemade sauces on potato rolls are the specialty here, along with other favorites like skirt steak. $$

Burgers

French Quarter––––––––––––––––––––––– Bayou Burger, 503 Bourbon St., 5294256, SportsBarNewOrleans.com. L, D daily. Sports bar in the thick of Bourbon Street scene distinguishes its fare with choices like Crawfish Beignets and Zydeco Bites. $$ Port of Call 838 Esplanade Ave., 5230120, PortOfCallNola.com. L, D daily. It is all about the big, meaty burgers and giant baked potatoes in this popular bar/ restaurant – unless you’re cocktailing only, then it’s all about the Monsoons. $$

French

CBD/Warehouse District––––––––––– Le Foret 129 Camp St., 553-6738, LeForetNewOrleans.com. D Mon-Sat. Sophisticated fine dining melds southern cuisine and classic French with modernist influences in an elegant setting. $$$$

Faubourg St. John–––––––––––––––––––– H Café Degas 3127 Esplanade Ave., 945-5635, CafeDegas.com. L, D Wed-Sat, Br Sun. Salad Niçoise, Hanger steak and frites are served in a lovely enclosed courtyard at this jewel of a French bistro. $$

H Marti’s 1041 Dumaine St., 522-5478, MartisNola.com. D daily. Classic French cuisine, small plates and chilled seafood platters like Grand Plateau Fruits De Mer are the calling cards for this restaurant with an elegant “Old World” feel. $$$

Lacombe–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H La Provence 25020 Highway 190, (985) 626-7662, LaProvenceRestaurant. com. D Wed-Sun, Br Sun. Chef John Besh upholds time-honored Provençal cuisine and rewards his guests with a true farm-life experience, from house-made preserves, charcuterie, herbs, kitchen gardens and eggs cultivated on the property. $$$$$

Metairie–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Chateau du Lac 2037 Metairie Road, 8313773, ChateauduLacBistro.com. L Tue-Fri, D Mon-Sat. This casual French bistro, run by chef-owner Jacques Saleun, offers up classic dishes such as escargot, coq au vin and blanquette de veau. $$$$

Uptown––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Bistro Daisy 5831 Magazine St., 8996987, BistroDaisy.com. D Tue-Sat. Chef Anton Schulte and his wife Diane’s bistro serves creative and contemporary bistro fare in a romantic setting. The signature Daisy Salad is a favorite. $$$$

H Coquette 2800 Magazine St., 2650421, CoquetteNola.com. L Wed-Sat, D

Wed-Mon, Br Sun. The food is French in inspiration and technique, with added imagination from chef Michael and his partner Lillian Hubbard. $$$

H Dominique’s On Magazine 4213 Magazine St., 891-9282, DominiquesOnMag.com. D Mon-Sat. The strikingly contemporary build-out complements the exciting and progressive menu at this national award-winning destination. $$$ Flaming Torch 737 Octavia St., 895-0900, FlamingTorchNola.com. L Mon-Fri, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. French classics including a tasty onion soup and often a sought-after coq-au-vin. $$

H La Crêpe Nanou 1410 Robert St., 899-2670, LaCrepeNanou.com. D daily, Br Sun. Classic French bistro fare including terrific moules and decadent dessert crêpes are served nightly at this neighborhood institution. $$$ La Petite Grocery 4238 Magazine St., 891-3377, LaPetiteGrocery.com. L TueSat, D daily, Br Sun. Elegant dining in a convivial atmosphere. The menu is heavily French-inspired with an emphasis on technique. $$$ Lilette 3637 Magazine St., 895-1636, LiletteRestaurant.com. L Tue-Sat, D MonSat. Chef John Harris’ innovative menu draws discerning diners to this highly regarded bistro. Desserts are wonderful as well. $$$$$

H Martinique Bistro 5908 Magazine St., 891-8495, MartiniqueBistro.com. D TueSun, Br Sat-Sun. French colonial fare

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DINING GUIDE served in a lovely covered courtyard as well as a tempting weekend brunch. $$

Gastropub

Abita Springs–––––––––––––––––––––––––– Abita Brew Pub 72011 Holly St., (985) 892-5837, AbitaBrewPub.com. L, D TueSun. Better-than-expected pub food in its namesake eatery. “Tasteful” tours available for visitors. $$

CBD/Warehouse District–––––––––– Gordon Biersch 200 Poydras St., 5522739, GordonBiersch.com. L, D daily. Local outpost of this popular chain serves specialty brews made on-site and crowdpleasing lunch and dinner fare. $$ Victory 339 Baronne St., 522-8664, VictoryNola.com. D Tue-Sat. Craft cocktails served by owner and acclaimed bartender Daniel Victory, as well as refined small plates and gourmet pizza. $$

French Quarter––––––––––––––––––––––– H Cane & Table 1113 Decatur St., 5811112, CaneAndTableNola.com. L Sat-Sun, D daily. Open late, this chef-driven rustic colonial cuisine and rum and “proto-Tiki” cocktails make this a fun place to gather. $$ Orleans Grapevine Wine Bar and Bistro 720 Orleans Ave., 523-1930, OrleansGrapevine.com. D daily. Wine is the muse at this beautifully renovated bistro, which offers vino by the flight, glass and bottle. A classic menu with an emphasis on local cuisine. $$$

H Patrick’s Bar Vin 730 Bienville St., 200-3180, PatricksBarVin.com. D daily. This oasis of a wine bar offers terrific selections by the bottle and glass. Small plates are served as well. $$

Lower Garden District––––––––––––– The Tasting Room 1926 Magazine St., 581-3880, TTRNewOrleans.com. D WedSun. Flights of wine and sophisticated small plates are the calling cards for this wine bar near Coliseum Square. $$

Mid-City–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Trèo 3835 Tulane Ave., 304-4878, TreoNola.com. L Wed-Sat, D Tue-Sat. Craft cocktail bar also serves a short but excellent small plates menu to accompany its artfully composed libations. $$

Uptown––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– The Avenue Pub 1732 St. Charles Ave., 586-9243, TheAvenuePub.com. Kitchen

open 24/7. With more than 43 rotating draft beers, this pub also offers food, including a cheese plate from St. James Cheese Co. and the “Pub Burger.” Counter service only. $ Bouligny Tavern 3641 Magazine St., 8911810, BoulignyTavern.com. D Mon-Sat. Carefully curated small plates, inventive cocktails and select wines are the focus of this stylish offshoot of John Harris’s nationally acclaimed Lilette. $$ The Delachaise 3442 St. Charles Ave., 895-0858, TheDelaichaise.com. L SatSun, D daily. Cuisine elevated to the standards of the libations is the draw at this lively wine bar and gastropub. Food is grounded in French bistro fare with eclectic twists. $$

Italian

Avondale–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Mosca’s 4137 Highway 90 West, 4638950, MoscasRestaurant.com. D Tue-Sat. Italian institution dishes out massive portions of great food, family-style. Good bets are the shrimp Mosca and chicken à la grande. Cash only. $$$

Bywater–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Mariza 2900 Charters St., 598-5700, MarizaNewOrleans.com. D Tue-Sat. An Italian-inspired restaurant by chef Ian Schnoebelen features a terrific raw bar, house-cured charcuterie and an array of refined adult beverages served in the industrial/contemporary setting on the ground floor of the Rice Mills lofts. $$$

CBD/Warehouse District–––––––––– H Domenica The Roosevelt Hotel, 123 Baronne St., 648-6020, DomenicaRestaurant.com. L, D daily. Chef Alon Shaya serves authentic, regional Italian cuisine. The menu of thin, lightly topped pizzas, artisanal salumi and cheese, and a carefully chosen selection of antipasti, pasta and entrées, feature locally raised products, some from chef John Besh’s Northshore farm. $$$$ Mother’s 401 Poydras St., 523-9656, MothersRestaurant.net. B, L, D daily. Locals and tourists alike endure long queues and a confounding ordering system to enjoy iconic dishes such as the Ferdi poor boy and Jerry’s jambalaya. Come for a late lunch to avoid the rush. $$ Tommy’s Cuisine 746 Tchoupitoulas St., 581-1103, TommysNewOrleans.com. D

daily. Classic Creole-Italian cuisine is the name of the game at this upscale eatery. Appetizers include the namesake oysters Tommy, baked in the shell with Romano cheese, pancetta and roasted red pepper. $$$$$

in 1797 as a respite for Napoleon, this family-owned European-style café serves local favorites gumbo, jambalaya and muffulettas, and for sipping, a Sazerac or lemony Pimm’s Cup are perfect accompaniments. $$

Faubourg Marigny–––––––––––––––––––

NOLA 534 St. Louis St., 522-6652, Emerils.com. L Thu-Mon, D daily. Emeril’s more affordable eatery, featuring cedar-plankroasted redfish; private dining. $$$$$

Praline Connection 542 Frenchmen St., 943-3934, PralineConnection.com. L, D daily. Down-home dishes of smothered pork chops, greens, beans and cornbread are on the menu at this Creole soul restaurant. $$

French Quarter––––––––––––––––––––––– Café Giovanni 117 Decatur St., 529-2154, CafeGiovanni.com. D daily. Live opera singers three nights a week. A selection of Italian specialties tweaked with a Creole influence and their Belli Baci happy hour adds to the atmosphere. $$$$ Chartres House, 601 Chartres St., 5868383, ChartresHouse.com. L, D daily. This iconic French Quarter bar serves terrific Mint Juleps and Gin Fizzes in its picturesque courtyard and balcony settings. Also famous for its fried green tomatoes and other local favorite dishes. $$$ Irene’s Cuisine 539 St. Philip St., 529881. D Mon-Sat. Long waits at the lively piano bar are part of the appeal of this Creole-Italian favorite beloved by locals. Try the oysters Irene and crabmeat gratin appetizers. $$$$

H Italian Barrel 430 Barracks St., 569-0198, ItalianBarrel.com. L, D daily. Northern Italian dishes like Braciola di Maiale as well as an exhaustive pasta menu tempt here at this local favorite that also offers al fresco seating. $$$

H Maximo’s Italian Grill 1117 Decatur St., 586-8883, MaximosGrill.com. D daily. Italian destination features a sprawling menu including housemade salumi and antipasti as well as old school classics like veal osso bucco. Private dining is offered for special events. $$$ Muriel’s Jackson Square 801 Chartres St., 568-1885, Muriels.com. L, D daily, Br Sun. Enjoy pecan-crusted drum and other local classics while dining in the courtyard bar or any other room in this labyrinthine, rumored-to-be-haunted establishment. $$$$ Napoleon House 500 Chartres St., 524522-4152, NapoleonHouse.com. L Mon-Sat, D Tue-Sat. Originally built

Ralph Brennan’s Red Fish Grill 115 Bourbon St., 598-1200, RedFishGrill.com. L, D daily. Chef Austin Kirzner cooks up a broad menu peppered with local favorites such as barbecue oysters, blackened redfish and double-chocolate bread pudding. $$$$$ Arnaud’s Remoulade 309 Bourbon St., 523-0377, Remoulade.com. L, D daily. Granite-topped tables and an antique mahogany bar are home to the eclectic menu of famous shrimp Arnaud, red beans and rice and poor boys as well as specialty burgers, grilled all-beef hot dogs and thin-crust pizza. $$

H R’evolution 777 Bienville St., 5532277, RevolutionNola.com. L Wed-Fri, D daily, Br Sun. An opulent place that combines the local flavors of chef John Folse with the more cosmopolitan influence of chef Rick Tramonto. Chef de cuisine Chris Lusk and executive sous chef Erik Veney are in charge of day-to-day operations, which include house-made charcuterie, pastries, pastas and more. $$$$$

H Tujague’s 823 Decatur St., 525-8676, TujaguesRestaurant.com. L Sat-Sun, D daily. For more than 150 years this landmark restaurant has been offering Creole cuisine. Favorites include a nightly six-course table d’hôté menu featuring a unique beef brisket with Creole sauce. $$$$$

Lakeview––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Tony Angello’s 6262 Fleur de Lis Drive, 488-0888, TonyAngellos.com. D Tue-Sat. Creole-Italian favorite serves up fare. Ask Tony to “Feed Me” if you want a real multi-course dining experience. $$$$

Metairie–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Andrea’s Restaurant 3100 19th St., 834-8583, AndreasRestaurant.com. L Mon-Sat, D daily, Br Sun. Osso buco and homemade pastas in a setting that’s

Pete’s Bistro & Lounge enjoys “Rebirth” at The InterContinental InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566, ICNewOrleans.com Pete’s Bistro at The InterContinental Hotel on St. Charles Avenue is enjoying an update thanks to the hotel’s multi-million dollar renovation. The locally inspired, new décor will be familiar to regulars, as will some of the signature dishes. The breakfast, lunch and dinner menus, however, have been revamped to include more extensive options. Items suitable for vegan, vegetarian and gluten free diets are clearly labeled, and dishes made with locally and regionally sourced ingredients are also highlighted. – M.C.

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both elegant and intimate; off-premise catering. $$$

locally sourced meats and produce. $$$

Semolina 4436 Veterans Blvd., Suite 37, 454-7930, Semolina.com. L, D daily. This casual, contemporary pasta restaurant takes a bold approach to cooking Italian food, emphasizing flavors, texture and color. Many of the dishes feature a signature Louisiana twist, such as the muffuletta pasta and pasta jambalaya. $$

Pascal’s Manale 1838 Napoleon Ave., 895-4877, PascalsManale.com. L MonFri, D Mon-Sat. Vintage neighborhood restaurant since 1913 and the place to go for the creation of barbecued shrimp. Its oyster bar serves icy cold, freshly shucked Louisiana oysters and the Italian specialties and steaks are also solid. $$$$

Vincent’s Italian Cuisine 4411 Chastant St., 885-2984, Metairie, VicentsItalianCuisine.com. L Tue-Fri, D Mon-Sat. Snug Italian boîte packs them in, yet manages to remain intimate at the same time. The cannelloni is a house specialty. $$$

Mid-City––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Liuzza’s 3636 Bienville St., 482-9120, Liuzzas.com. L, D daily. Classic neighborhood joint serves favorites like the “Frenchuletta,” stuffed artichokes and andouille gumbo. Kid’s menu offered. Cash only. $$ Ralph’s On The Park 900 City Park Ave., 488-1000, RalphsOnThePark.com. Br Sun, L Tue-Fri, D daily. A modern interior and contemporary Creole dishes such as City Park salad, turtle soup, barbecue Gulf shrimp and good cocktails. $$$$

NORTHSHORE–––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Del Porto Ristorante 501 E. Boston St., (985) 875-1006, DelPortoRistorante. com. L, D Tue-Sat. One of the Northshore’s premier fine dining destinations serving Italian food that makes use of

Uptown–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

Vincent’s Italian Cuisine 7839 St. Charles Ave., 866-9313, VicentsItalianCuisine.com. L Tue-Fri, D Tue-Sun. Snug Italian boîte packs them in yet manages to remain intimate at the same time. The cannelloni is a house specialty. $$$

Louisianian Fare

CBD/Warehouse District––––––––––– H Annunciation 1016 Annunciation St., 568-0245, AnnunciationRestaurant.com. D Mon-Sat. Chef Steven Manning brings a refined sensibility to this refined Warehouse District oasis along with his famous fried oysters with melted brie. $$$ Bon Ton Cafe 401 Magazine St., 5243386, TheBonTonCafe.com. L, D Mon-Fri. A local favorite for the old-school business lunch crowd specializing in local seafood and Cajun dishes. $$$$ Café Adelaide Loews New Orleans Hotel, 300 Poydras St., 595-3305, CafeAdelaide. com. B, D daily, L Mon-Fri. This offering from the Commander’s Palace family of

restaurants has become a power-lunch favorite for business-people and politicos. Also features the Swizzle Stick Bar. $$$$

H Cochon 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 588-2123, CochonRestaurant.com. L, D, Mon-Sat. Chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski showcase Cajun and Southern cuisine at this hot spot. Boudin and other pork dishes reign supreme here, along with Louisiana seafood and real moonshine from the bar. Reservations strongly recommended. $$ Drago’s Hilton Riverside Hotel, 2 Poydras St., 584-3911, DragosRestaurant. com. L, D daily. This famous seafooder specializes in charbroiled oysters, a dish they invented. Great deals on fresh lobster as well. $$$$ Emeril’s 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 5289393, EmerilsRestaurants.com. L MonFri, D daily. The flagship of superstar chef Emeril Lagasse’s culinary empire, this landmark attracts pilgrims from all over the world. $$$$$

H Herbsaint 701 St. Charles Ave., 5244114, Herbsaint.com. L Mon-Fri, D MonSat. Enjoy a sophisticated cocktail before sampling chef Donald Link’s menu that melds contemporary bistro fare with classic Louisiana cuisine. The banana brown butter tart is a favorite dessert. $$$$$ Mulate’s 201 Julia St., 522-1492, Mulates.com. L, D daily. Live music and dancing add to the fun at this worldfamous Cajun destination. $$

Palette 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2350, B, L, D daily. Creole, Cajun and French flavors all come together at this restaurant in the Renaissance Hotel near the Convention Center. $$

Darrow–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Café Burnside Houmas House Plantation, 40136 Highway 942, (225) 473-9380, HoumasHouse.com. L daily, Br Sun. Historic plantation’s casual dining option features dishes such as seafood pasta, fried catfish, crawfish and shrimp, gumbo and red beans and rice. $$ Latil’s Landing Houmas House Plantation, 40136 Highway 942, (225) 473-9380, HoumasHouse.com. D Wed-Sun. Nouvelle Louisiane, plantation-style cooking served in an opulent setting features dishes like rack of lamb and plume de veau. $$$$$

Faubourg Marigny–––––––––––––––––––– Feelings Cafe 2600 Chartres St., 9452222, FeelingsCafe.com. D Wed-Sun, Br Sun. Romantic ambiance and skillfully created dishes, such as veal d’aunoy, make dining here on the patio a memorable experience. A piano bar on Fridays adds to the atmosphere. Vegan menu offered. $$$$

French Quarter––––––––––––––––––––––– Acme Oyster House 724 Iberville St., 5225973, AcmeOyster.com. L, D daily. Known as one of the best places to eat oysters. $$

H Arnaud’s 813 Bienville St., 523-5433, ArnaudsRestaurant.com. D daily, Br Sun.

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DINING GUIDE Waiters in tuxedos prepare Café Brûlot tableside at this storied Creole grande dame; live jazz during Sun. brunch. $$$$$

The famous daily Jazz Brunch buffet and classic Creole dishes sweeten the deal. $$$$$

Antoine’s 713 St. Louis St., 581-4422, Antoines.com. L, D Mon-Sat, Br Sun. This pinnacle of haute cuisine and birthplace of oysters Rockefeller is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant. (Every item is á la carte, with an $11 minimum.) Private dining rooms available. $$$$$

Criollo Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 681-4444, CriolloNola.com. B, L, D daily. Next to the famous Carousel Bar in the historic Monteleone Hotel, Criollo represents an amalgam of the various cultures reflected in Louisiana cooking and cuisine, often with a slight contemporary twist. $$$

H The Bistreaux New Orleans Maison

H Dickie Brennan’s Bourbon House 144

Dupuy Hotel, 1001 Toulouse St., 5868000, MaisonDupuy.com/dining.html. L, D daily. Dishes ranging from the casual (truffle mac and cheese) to the upscale (tuna tasting trio) are served in an elegant courtyard. $$

Bourbon St., 522-0111, BourbonHouse. com. B, L, D daily. Classic Creole dishes such as redfish on the halfshell and baked oysters served. Its extensive bourbon menu will please aficionados. $$$$

The Bombay Club Prince Conti Hotel, 830 Conti St., 586-0972, TheBombayClub. com. D daily. Popular martini bar with plush British décor features live music during the week and late dinner and drinks on weekends. Nouveau Creole menu includes items such as Bombay drum. $$$$ Café Maspero 601 Decatur St., 523-6250, CafeMaspero.com. L, D daily. Tourists line up for their generous portions of seafood and large deli sandwiches. $ Court of Two Sisters 613 Royal St., 522-7261, CourtOfTwoSisters.com. Br, D daily. The historic environs make for a memorable outdoor dining experience.

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Galatoire’s 209 Bourbon St., 525-2021, Galatoires.com. L, D Tue-Sun. Friday lunches are a New Orleans tradition at this world-famous French-Creole grand dame. Tradition counts for everything here, and the crabmeat Sardou is delicious. Note: Jackets required for dinner and all day Sun. $$$$$ House of Blues 225 Decatur St., 3104999, HouseOfBlues.com/NewOrleans. L, D daily. Surprisingly good menu complements music in the main room. Worldfamous Gospel Brunch every Sunday. Patio seating available. $$ K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen 416 Chartres St., 596-2530, ChefPaul.com/KPaul. L Thu-Sat, D Mon-Sat. Paul Prudhomme’s

landmark restaurant helped introduce Cajun food to a grateful nation. Lots of seasoning and bountiful offerings, along with reserved seating, make this a destination for locals and tourists alike. $$$$

H MiLa 817 Common St., 412-2580, MiLaNewOrleans.com. L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat. Latest offering from husbandand-wife chefs Slade Rushing and Allison Vines-Rushing focuses on the fusion of the cuisines of Miss. and La. $$$$ Royal House, 441 Royal St, 528-2601, RoyalHouseRestaurant.com. L, D daily. B Sat and Sun. Poor boys, jambalaya and shrimp Creole are some of the favorites served here. Weekend breakfast and an oyster bar add to the crowd-pleasing appeal. $$$ SoBou 310 Chartres St., 552-4095, SoBouNola.com. B, L, D daily. There is something for everyone at this “Modern Creole Saloon.” Decidedly unstuffy with an emphasis on craft cocktails and wines by the glass. Everything from $1 pork cracklins to an extravagant foie gras burger on accomplished yet eclectic menus. $$

H Tableau 616 S. Peter St., 934-3463, TableauFrenchQuarter.com. L, D daily, Br Sun. Gulf seafood such as trout amandine and classic Creole brunch dishes like eggs Sardou are the highlights of this Dickie Brennan restaurant that shares space with Le Petite Théâtre on the corner of Jackson Square. $$$

Kenner–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Copeland’s 1319 W. Esplanade Ave., 6179146, CopelandsofNewOrleans.com. L, D daily, Br Sun. Al Copeland’s namesake chain includes favorites such as Shrimp Ducky. Popular for lunch. $$

Lakeview–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Cava 789 Harrison Ave., 304-9034. D Mon-Sat. Fine dining (and excellent wine list) at this high-end Cajun and Creole restaurant that makes customer service a big part of the experience. $$$

Metairie/Jefferson–––––––––––––––––– Acme Oyster House 3000 Veterans Blvd., 309-4056, AcmeOyster.com. L, D daily. Known as one of the best places to eat oysters. $$ Austin’s 5101 W. Esplanade Ave., 8885533, AustinsNo.com. D Mon-Sat. Mr. Ed’s upscale bistro serves contemporary Creole fare, including seafood and steaks. $$$ Copeland’s 1001 S. Clearview Parkway, 620-7800; 701 Veterans Blvd., 831-3437, CopelandsofNewOrleans.com. L, D daily, Br Sun. Al Copeland’s namesake chain includes favorites such as Shrimp Ducky. Popular for lunch. $$ Crabby Jack’s 428 Jefferson Highway, 833-2722, CrabbyJacksNola.com. L MonSat. Lunch outpost of Jacques-Imo’s. Famous for its fried seafood and poor boys including fried green tomatoes and roasted duck. $


Drago’s 3232 N. Arnoult Road, 888-9254, DragosRestaurant.com. L, D Mon-Sat. This famous seafooder specializes in charbroiled oysters, a dish they invented. Great deals on fresh lobster as well. $$$$

NORTHSHORE–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

Mid-City––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Katie’s Restaurant and Bar 3701

Gallagher’s Grill 509 S. Tyler St., (985) 892-9992, GallaghersGrill.com. L, D TueFri, D Sat. Chef Pat Gallagher’s destination restaurant offers al fresco seating to accompany classically inspired New Orleans fare. Event catering offered. $$$

Iberville St., 488-6582, KatiesInMidCity. com. L, D Mon-Sat, Br Sun. Creative poor boys, local dishes such as gumbo and Sunday brunch make this a neighborhood favorite. $$ Lil’ Dizzy’s Café 1500 Esplanade Ave., 569-8997, LilDizzysCafe.com. B, L daily, Br Sun. Spot local and national politicos dining at this favored Creole soul restaurant known for homey classics like fried chicken and trout Baquet. $

H Mandina’s 3800 Canal St., 482-9179, MandinasRestaurant.com. L, D daily. Though the ambiance is more upscale, the food and seafood dishes make dining here a New Orleans experience. $$

H Redemption 3835 Iberville St., 3093570, Redemption-Nola.com. L Wed-Fri & Sun, D Wed-Sun. Chef-driven “Revival” Creole fare served in an inspiring former church. $$$

H Toups’ Meatery 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 252-4999, ToupsMeatery.com. L, D Tue-Sat. Charcuterie, specialty cocktails and an exhaustive list of excellent à la carte sides make this restaurant a carnivore’s delight. $$$

Acme Oyster House 1202 N. Highway 190, Covington, (985) 246-6155, AcmeOyster.com. L, D daily. Known as one of the best places to eat oysters. $$

Riverbend––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Boucherie 8115 Jeannette St., 8625514, Boucherie-Nola.com. L, D Tue-Sat. Serving contemporary Southern food with an international angle, chef Nathaniel Zimet offers excellent ingredients presented simply. $$ Brigtsen’s 723 Dante St., 861-7610, Brigtsens.com. D Tue-Sat. Chef Frank Brigtsen’s nationally famous Creole cuisine makes this cozy cottage a true foodie destination. $$$$$

University Area––––––––––––––––––––––– H Dunbar’s 501 Pine St., 861-5451. Beloved budget-friendly Creole institution in an unlikely spot – Loyola University’s Broadway campus – but the excellent jambalaya, fried chicken and red beans and rice haven’t changed. $

Uptown––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Apolline 4729 Magazine St., 894-8881, ApollineRestaurant.com. D Tue-Sun, Br Sat-Sun. Cozy gem serves a refined menu of French and Creole classics peppered with Southern influences

such as buttermilk fried quail with corn waffle. $$$ Casamento’s 4330 Magazine St., 8959761, CasamentosRestaurant.com. L Tue-Sat, D Thu-Sat. The family-owned restaurant has shucked oysters and fried seafood since 1919; closed during summer and for all major holidays. $$ Clancy’s 6100 Annunciation St., 8951111, ClancysNewOrleans.com. L Thu-Fri, D Mon-Sat. Their Creole-inspired menu has been a favorite of locals for years. $$$ Commander’s Palace 1403 Washington Ave., 899-8221, CommandersPalace.com. L Mon-Fri, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. The grande dame is going strong under the auspices of James Beard Award-winner chef Tory McPhail. Jazz Brunch is a great deal. $$$$ Dick and Jenny’s 4501 Tchoupitoulas St., 894-9880, DickAndJennys.com. L Thu-Fri, D Mon-Sat, Br Sun. A funky cottage serving Louisiana comfort food with flashes of innovation. $$$$ Domilise’s 5240 Annunciation St., 899912. L, D Mon-Wed, Fri-Sat. Local institution and rite-of-passage for those wanting an initiation to the real New Orleans. Wonderful poor boys and a unique atmosphere make this a one-of-a-kind place. $

H Gautreau’s 1728 Soniat St., 899-7397, GautreausRestaurant.com. D Mon-Sat. Upscale destination serves refined interpretations of classics along with contemporary creations. $$$$$

Jacques-Imo’s Cafe 8324 Oak St., 8610886, Jacques-Imos.com. D Mon-Sat. Reinvented New Orleans cuisine served in a party atmosphere. The deep-fried roast beef poor boy is delicious. The lively bar scene offsets the long wait on weekends. $$$$ Joey K’s 3001 Magazine St., 891-0997, JoeyKsRestaurant.com. L, D Mon-Sat. A true neighborhood restaurant with daily lunch plates; red beans and rice are classic. $ Mahony’s 3454 Magazine St., 899-3374, MahonysPoBoys.com. L, D daily. Along with the usual poor boys, this sandwich shop serves up a grilled shrimp and fried green tomato version dressed with remoulade sauce. Sandwich offerings are augmented by a full bar. $ Mat & Naddie’s 937 Leonidas St., 8619600, MatAndNaddies.com. D Mon-Tue, Thu-Sat. Cozy converted house serves up creative and eclectic regionally inspired fare. Shrimp and crawfish croquettes make for a good appetizer and when the weather is right the romantic patio is the place to sit. $$$$

WEST BANK––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Copeland’s 2333 Manhattan Blvd., 3641575, CopelandsofNewOrleans.com. L, D daily, Br Sun. Al Copeland’s namesake chain includes favorites such as Shrimp Ducky. Popular for lunch. $$

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DINING GUIDE Pizza

Reginelli’s Pizzeria Multiple Locations, Reginellis.com. L, D daily. Pizzas, pastas, salads, fat calzones and lofty focaccia sandwiches are at locations all over town. $$ Theo’s Pizza Multiple Locations, TheosPizza.com. L, D daily. The crackercrisp crust pizzas are complemented by a broad assortment of toppings with a lot of local ingredients at cheap prices. $$

Bywater–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Pizza Delicious 617 Piety St., 6768282, PizzaDelicious.com. Authentic New York-style thin crust pizza is the reason to come to this affordable restaurant that began as a pop-up, but they also offer excellent salads sourced from small farms and homemade pasta dishes as well. Outdoor seating a plus. $

Uptown–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Ancora 4508 Freret St., 324-1636, AncoraPizza.com. D Mon-Sat. Authentic Neapolitan-style pizza fired in an oven imported from Naples. The housemade charcuterie makes it a double-winner. $$ Slice 1513 St. Charles Ave., 525-PIES (7437); 5538 Magazine St., 897-4800; SlicePizzeria.com. L, D daily. Order up slices or whole pizza pies done in several styles (thin- and thick-crust) as well as pastas, seafood, panini and salads. $

Seafood

Akers–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Middendorf’s Interstate 55, Exit 15, 30160 Highway 51 South, (985) 3866666, MiddendorfsRestaurant.com. L, D Wed-Sun. Historic seafood destination along the shores of Lake Maurepas is world-famous for its thin-fried catfish fillets. Open since 1934, it’s more than a restaurant, it’s a Sun. drive tradition. $$

CBD/Warehouse District––––––––––– H Borgne 601 Loyola Ave., 613-3860, BorgneRestaurant.com. L, D daily. Coastal Louisiana seafood with an emphasis on Isleños cuisine (descendants of Canary Islanders who settled in St. Bernard Parish) is the focus of this high-volume destination adjacent to the Superdome. $$$

H Pêche 800 Magazine St., 522-1744, PecheRestaurant.com. L, D Mon-Sat. Award-winning southern-inspired seafood destination by chef Donald Link serves whole roasted Gulf fish from its massive, wood-burning oven. An excellent raw bar is offered as well. $$$

H Rio Mar 800 S. Peters St., 525-3474,

RioMarSeafood.com. L Mon-Fri, D MonSat. Seafood-centric destination focuses on Latin American and Spanish cuisines. Try the bacalaitos and the escabeche. The tapas lunch is a great way to try a little of everything. Save room for the tres leches. $$$$

French Quarter––––––––––––––––––––––– Bourbon House 144 Bourbon St., 5220111, BourbonHouse.com. B, L, D daily. Local seafood, featured in both classic and contemporary dishes, is the focus of this New Orleans-centric destination. And yes, bourbon is offered as well. $$$ Deanie’s Seafood 841 Iberville St., 5811316, Deanies.com. L, D daily. Louisiana seafood, baked, broiled, boiled and fried is the name of the game. Try the barbecue shrimp or towering seafood platters. $$$

H GW Fins 808 Bienville St., 581-FINS (3467), GWFins.com. D daily. Owners Gary Wollerman and chef of the Year Tenney Flynn provide dishes at their seasonal peak. On a quest for unique variety, menu is printed daily. $$$$$

H Kingfish 337 Charters St., 598-5005, CocktailBarNewOrleans.com. L, D daily. Gulf seafood and nouvelle Creole dishes such as smoked rabbit gumbo are the main draws at this establishment helmed by Greg Sonnier, as well as the excellent bar program by mixologist Chris McMillian. $$$ Landry’s Seafood 400 N. Peters St., 5580038, LandrysSeafood.com. Kid-friendly and popular seafood spot serves of heaping platters of fried shrimp, Gulf oysters, catfish and more. $$ Le Bayou, 208 Bourbon St., 525-4755, LeBayouRestaurant.com. L, D Mon-Sat. Blackened redfish and Shrimp Ya-Ya are a just a few of the choices at this seafoodcentric destination on Bourbon Street. Fried alligator is available for the more daring diner. $$$ Oceana Grill 739 Conti St., 525-6002, OceanaGrill.com. B, L, D daily. Gumbo, poor boys and barbecue shrimp are served at this kid-friendly seafood destination. $$ Pier 424, 424 Bourbon St., 309-1574, Pier424SeafoodMarket.com. L, D daily. Seafood-centric restaurant offers long menu of traditional New Orleans fare augmented by unusual twists like “CajunBoiled” Lobster prepared crawfish-style in spicy crab boil. $$$

Kenner––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Mr. Ed’s Seafood and Italian Restaurant 910 W. Esplanade Ave., Ste. A, 463-3030,

AustinsNo.com. L, D Mon-Sat. Neighborhood restaurant specializes in seafood and Italian offerings such as stuffed eggplant and bell pepper. Fried seafood and sandwiches make it a good stop for lunch. $$

Metairie–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Austin’s Restaurant, 5101 W. Esplanade Ave., 888-5533, AustinsNo.com. D MonSat. Signature steak, seafood and Italian specialties reign at this dinner-only destination. Catering offered as well. $$$ Deanie’s Seafood 1713 Lake Ave., 8314141, Deanies.com. L, D daily. Louisiana seafood, baked, broiled, boiled and fried, is the name of the game. Try the barbecue shrimp or towering seafood platters. $$$ Mr. Ed’s Seafood and Italian Restaurant 1001 Live Oak St., 838-0022, AustinsNo. com. L, D Mon-Sat. Neighborhood restaurant specializes in seafood and Italian offerings such as stuffed eggplant and bell pepper. Fried seafood and sandwiches make it a good stop for lunch. $$

locally inspired seafood dishes round out the appeal. $$$

H La Boca 870 Tchoupitoulas St., 5258205, LaBocaSteaks.com. D Mon-Sat. This Argentine steakhouse specializes in cuts of meat along with pastas and wines. Specials include the provoleta appetizer and the Vacio flank steak. $$$ Morton’s The Steakhouse 365 Canal St., One Canal Place, 566-0221, Mortons. com/NewOrleans. D daily. Private elevator leads to the plush, wood-paneled environs of this local outpost of the famed Chicago steakhouse popular with politicians and celebrities. $$$$ Ruth’s Chris Steak House Harrah’s Hotel, 525 Fulton St., 587-7099, RuthsChris. com. D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Filet mignon, creamed spinach and potatoes au gratin are the most popular dishes at this area steak institution, but there are also great seafood choices and top-notch desserts. $$$$$

Uptown–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

Garden District––––––––––––––––––––––– H Mr. John’s Steakhouse 2111 St.

Frankie & Johnny’s 321 Arabella St., 243-1234, FrankieAndJohnnys.net. L, D daily. Serves fried and boiled seafood along with poor boys and daily lunch specials. Kid-friendly with a game room to boot. $$

Charles Ave., 679-7697, MrJohnsSteakhouse.com. D Tue-Sat, L Friday. Wood paneling, white tile and USDA Prime Beef served sizzling in butter are the hallmarks of this classic New Orleans steakhouse. $$$

West End–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

French Quarter–––––––––––––––––––––––

Landry’s Seafood 8000 Lakeshore Drive, West End, 283-1010, LandrysSeafood.com. Kid-friendly and popular seafood spot serves of heaping platters of fried shrimp, Gulf oysters, catfish and more. $$

Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse 716 Iberville St., 522-2467, DickieBrennansSteakhouse.com. L Fri, D daily. Nationally recognized steakhouse serves USDA Prime steaks and local seafood. $$$$$

H Doris Metropolitan 620 Charters St.,

Steakhouse

CBD/Warehouse District––––––––––– H Besh Steak Harrah’s Casino, 8 Canal St., 533-6111, HarrahsNewOrleans. com. D daily. Acclaimed chef John Besh reinterprets the classic steakhouse with his signature contemporary Louisiana flair. $$$$$ Chophouse New Orleans 322 Magazine St., 522-7902, ChophouseNola.com. D daily. In addition to USDA prime grade aged steaks prepared under a broiler that reaches 1,700 degrees, Chophouse offers lobster, redfish and classic steakhouse sides. $$$

H Desi Vega’s Steakhouse 628 St. Charles Ave., 523-7600, DesiVegaSteaks. com. L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat. USDA Prime steaks form the base of this Mr. John’s offshoot overlooking Lafayette Square, but Italian specialties and a smattering of

267-3500, DorisMetropolitan.com. L SatSun, D daily. Innovative, genre-busting steakhouse plays with expectations and succeeds with modernist dishes like their Classified Cut and Beetroot Supreme. $$$$ Galatoire’s 33 Bar & Steak 215 Bourbon St., 335-3932, Galatoires33BarAndSteak. com. L Fri, D Sun-Thu. Steakhouse offshoot of the venerable Creole grande dame offers hand-crafted cocktails to accompany classic steakhouse fare as well as inspired dishes like the Gouté 33: horseradish-crusted bone marrow and deviled eggs with crab ravigote and smoked trout. Reservations accepted. $$$ Morton’s, The Steakhouse The Shops at Canal Place, 365 Canal St., 566-0221, Mortons.com/NewOrleans. D daily. Quintessential Chicago steakhouse serves up top-quality slabs of meat along with jumbo seafood. Clubhouse atmosphere makes

Château du Lac opens in Warehouse District Chateau du Lac Warehouse Bistro, 857 Fulton St., 301-0235, ChateauDuLacBistro.com In a city steeped in French history, there’s now a new place to experience Parisian bistro, with the opening of Château du Lac Warehouse Bistro. This is the second restaurant for native French chef Jacques Saleun, who opened Château du Lac eight years ago in Metairie. The downtown location is situated one block from the Convention Center and the newly reopened Riverwalk Outlet Mall. Lunch and dinner patrons will be able to enjoy French classics such as escargots, seared foie gras, steak frites, onion sauce and duck confit, along with seasonal daily specials. – M.C.

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this chophouse a favorite of Saints players and business-people alike. $$$$$

Metairie––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Ruth’s Chris Steak House 3633 Veterans Blvd., 888-3600, RuthsChris.com. L Fri, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Filet mignon, creamed spinach and potatoes au gratin are the most popular dishes at this area steak institution, but there are also great seafood choices and top-notch desserts. $$$$$

Mid-City––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Crescent City Steaks 1001 N. Broad St., 821-3271, CrescentCitySteaks.com. L Tue-Fri & Sun, D daily. One of the classic New Orleans steakhouses. Steaks, sides and drinks are what you get. $$$$

H Milkfish 125 N. Carrollton Ave., 2674199, MilkfishNola.com. L, D Thu-Tue. Filipino cuisine like adobo and lumpia is served, further expanding dining opportunities. $$

Vegan/Vegetarian

Byblos Multiple Locations, ByblosRestaurants.com. L, D daily. Upscale Middle Eastern cuisine featuring traditional seafood, lamb and vegetarian options. $$

Lower Garden District––––––––––––– H The Green Fork 1400 Prytania St., 267-7672, GreenForkNola.com. B, L Mon-Sat. Fresh juices, smoothies and vegetarian-friendly fare make The Green Fork a favorite for lovers of healthy food. Catering is offered as well. $$

World

Bywater–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Booty’s Street Food 800 Louisa St., 266-2887, BootysNola.com. B, L, D daily. Street food culled from countries around the globe is the muse of this creative establishment where papadum from India resides confidently alongside Peruvian ceviche. $$ The Green Goddess 307 Exchange Place, 301-3347, GreenGoddessRestaurant.com. L, D Wed-Sun. One of the most imaginative local restaurants. The menu is constantly changing, and chef Paul Artigues always has ample vegetarian options. Combine all of that with a fantastic selection of drinks, wine and beer, and it’s the total (albeit small) package. $$

CBD/Warehouse District––––––––––– H Lüke 333 St. Charles Ave., 378-2840, LukeNewOrleans.com. B, L, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Chef John Besh and executive chef Matt Regan serve Germanic specialties and French bistro classics, housemade patés and abundant plateaux of cold, fresh seafood. $$$ Palace Café 605 Canal St., 523-1661, PalaceCafe.com. L Mon-Sat, D daily, Br Sun. Dickie Brennan-owned brasserie with French-style sidewalk seating and house-created specialties of chef Darrin Nesbit. Favorites here include crabmeat cheesecake, turtle soup, the Werlein salad with fried Louisiana oysters and pork “debris” studded Palace potato pie. $$$$$

Faubourg Marigny––––––––––––––––––– H Mona’s Café 504 Frenchmen St.,

Lakeview––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Mondo 900 Harrison Ave., 224-2633,

949-4115. L, D daily. Middle Eastern specialties such as baba ganuj, tender-tangy beef or chicken shawarma, falafel and gyros, stuffed into pillowy pita bread or on platters. The lentil soup with crunchy pita chips and desserts, such as sticky sweet baklava, round out the menu. $

MondoNewOrleans.com. L Mon-Fri, D Mon-Sat, Br Sun. Chef Susan Spicer’s take on world cuisine. Make sure to call ahead because the place has a deserved reputation for good food and good times. $$$

French Quarter––––––––––––––––––––––– Bayona 430 Dauphine St., 525-4455, Bayona.com. L Wed-Sat, D Mon-Sat. Chef Susan Spicer’s nationally acclaimed cuisine is served in this 200-year-old cottage. Ask for a seat on the romantic patio, weather permitting. $$$$$

METAIRIE––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Vega Tapas Café, 2051 Metairie Road, 836-2007, VegaTapasCafe.com. D MonSat. Fun, eclectic small plates destination offers creative fare keeps guests coming back with frequent regionally inspired specialty menus served with humor and whimsy. $$

El Gato Negro 81 French Market Place, 525-9752, ElGatoNegroNola.com. Central Mexican cuisine along with hand-muddled mojitos and margaritas made with freshly squeezed juice. A weekend breakfast menu is an additional plus. $$

Mid-City–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

Kenner––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Fiesta Latina 1924 Airline Drive, 468-

Lola’s 3312 Esplanade Ave., 488-6946, LolasNewOrleans.com. D daily. Garlicky Spanish dishes and great paella make this artsy boîte a hipster destination. $$$

2384, FiestaLatinaRestaurant.com. B, L, D daily. A big-screen TV normally shows a soccer match or MTV Latino at this home for authentic Central American food. Tacos include a charred carne asada. $$

Lakewood–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Mizado 5080 Pontchartrain Blvd., 885-5555, MizadoCocina.com. L daily, D Mon-Sat. Sleek restaurant offers modern Mexican cuisine featuring pan-Latin flavors and influences. Small batch tequila and a ceviche bar make it a party. $$

Juan’s Flying Burrito 4724 S. Carrollton Ave., 486-9950, JuansFlyingBurrito. com. L, D daily. Hard-core tacos and massive burritos are served in an edgy atmosphere. $

H Mona’s Café 3901 Banks St., 4827743. L, D daily. Middle Eastern specialties such as baba ganuj, tender-tangy beef or chicken shawarma, falafel and gyros, stuffed into pillowy pita bread or on platters. The lentil soup with crunchy pita chips and desserts, such as sticky sweet baklava, round out the menu. $

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DINING GUIDE H Taqueria Guerrero 208 N. Carrollton Ave., 484-6959. B, L, D, Tue-Sat. Friendly staff and authentic Mexican cuisine make this affordable neighborhood restaurant a neighborhood favorite. $

Uptown––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Café Abyssinia 3511 Magazine St., 894-6238. L, D daily. One of a just few authentic Ethiopian restaurants in the city, excellent injera and spicy vegetarian fare make this a local favorite. $$

H Irish House 1432 St. Charles Ave., 595-6755, TheIrishHouseNewOrleans. com. L Mon-Fri, D daily, Br Sat-Sun. Irish pub dishes such as shepherd’s pie and fish and chips are featured here, as well as creative cocktails like Irish iced coffee. Check the schedule of events for live music. $$

H Ivy 5015 Magazine St., 899-1330. D Mon-Sat. James Beard Award-winning chef Sue Zemanick lets her hair down and her more casual side shine at this ingredient-driven small plates hotspot that, while elegant, is more fun than formal. $$$ Jamila’s Mediterranean Tunisian Cuisine 7808 Maple St., 866-4366. D TueSun. Intimate and exotic bistro serving Mediterranean and Tunisian cuisine. The Grilled Merguez is a Jazz Fest favorite and vegetarian options are offered. $$

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Juan’s Flying Burrito 2018 Magazine St., 569-0000, JuansFlyingBurrito.com. L, D daily. Hard-core tacos and massive burritos are served in an edgy atmosphere. $

H Mona’s Café 4126 Magazine St., 8949800; 1120 S. Carrollton Ave., 861-8174. L, D daily. Middle Eastern specialties such as baba ganuj, tender-tangy beef or chicken shawarma, falafel and gyros, stuffed into pillowy pita bread or on platters. The lentil soup with crunchy pita chips and desserts, such as sticky sweet baklava, round out the menu. $

H Panchita’s 1434 S. Carrollton Ave., 281-4127. L, D daily. Authentic, budgetfriendly Mexican restaurant serves tamales, mole and offers free chips and salsa as well as sangria. $

H Patois 6078 Laurel St., 895-9441, PatoisNola.com. L Fri, D Wed-Sat, Br Sun. The food is French in technique, with influences from across the Mediterranean as well as the American South, all filtered through the talent of chef Aaron Burgau. Reservations recommended. $$$

Specialty Foods

CBD/Warehouse District––––––––––– Calcasieu 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 5882188, CalcasieuRooms.com. For gatherings both large and small, the catering menus feature modern Louisiana cooking and the Cajun cuisine for which chef

Donald Link is justifiably famous.

French Quarter––––––––––––––––––––––– Antoine’s Annex 513 Royal St., 5258045, Antoines.com/Antoines-Annex. Open daily. Serves French pastries, including individual baked Alaskas, ice cream and gelato, as well as panini, salads and coffee. Delivery available.

Metairie–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Sucré 3301 Veterans Blvd., 834-2277, ShopSucre.com. Desserts daily. Open late weekends. Chocolates, pastry and gelato draw rave reviews at this dessert destination. Beautiful packaging makes this a great place to shop for gifts. Catering available.

Mid-City––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Blue Dot Donuts 4301 Canal St., 218-

daily, closed Sundays in summer. French and Belgian chocolate truffles and Italian candy flowers make this a great place for gifts. St. James Cheese Company 5004 Prytania St., 899-4737, StJamesCheese. com. Open daily. Specialty shop offers a selection of fine cheeses, wines, beers and related accouterments. Look for wine and cheese specials every Friday. Sucré 3025 Magazine St., 520-8311, ShopSucre.com. Desserts daily & nightly. Open late weekends. Chocolates, pastry and gelato draw rave reviews at this dessert destination. Beautiful packaging makes this a great place to shop for gifts. Catering available. n

4866, BlueDotDonuts.com. B, L Tue-Sun. The Bacon Maple Long John gets all the press, but returning customers are happy with the classics as well as twists like peanut butter and jelly.

Uptown––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– H Blue Dot Donuts 5236 Tchoupitoulas St., 941-7675, BlueDotDonuts.com. B, L Tue-Sun. The Bacon Maple Long John gets all the press, but returning customers are happy with the classics as well as twists like peanut butter and jelly. Blue Frog Chocolates 5707 Magazine St., 269-5707, BlueFrogChocolates.com. Open

If you feel that a restaurant has been misplaced, please email Managing Editor Morgan Packard at Morgan@MyNewOrleans.com.


Harvest Cup Polo Classic 2014 Fundraising at its Finest!

The Junior League of Greater Covington and The 2014 Harvest Cup Polo Committee Present the 18th Annual Harvest Cup Polo Classic Sunday, October 19, 2014 11:30am – 5:30pm (Gates open at 10:30am for parking) Summergrove Farm in Folsom, home polo field for New Orleans Polo Club (16191 Hwy 40 Folsom, LA)

FABULOUS FOOD AND SPECIAL LIBATIONS from over 30 restaurants and vendors LIVE ENTERTAINMENT- New Orleans Rhythm and Blues Company LIVE AND SILENT AUCTIONS $5,000 GUCCI RAFFLE presented by Lee Michaels Fine Jewelers Air Conditioned VIP TENT- watch Saints Game Pretty Woman Hat Contest For more information about this event please visit our website: www.jlgc.net myneworleans.com / OCTOBER 2014

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Antoine's Restaurant: Chef Michael Regua Amici Ristorante & Bar: Executive Chef Chad Matrana The Court of Two Sisters: Executive Chef Chad Penedo Audubon Clubhouse Café: Chef Wallace Williams Audubon Nature Institute: Executive Chef Alan Ehrich

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Seeing Red Wine Festival

Louisiana Weekends: Fall Festivals & Recipes for Fun

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Gretna Heritage Festival - Lynyrd Skynyrd

F

ilms, music, culture, food and drink – all perfect ingredients for festival fun! Add some cool weather to the mix and your recipe is complete. Fall is here and there’s much to do across Louisiana. Experience some weekend fun with festivals, nearby travel, local arts, dining out and shopping for the perfect fall and winter wardrobe. Extend the weekend with an extra day off of work and add in 24 more hours of going, seeing and doing. There’s plenty happening both locally and a short drive away. Art exhibits and fine dining provide a quiet, peaceful way to spend a day and night, while music and culture fests, beach trips and barhopping make for livelier occasions. No matter your taste for fall entertainment – Louisiana and its neighbors make for flavorful fun.

Fall Festivals The Fairhope Film Festival is a film lover’s film festival, offering world-class, award-winning films in a unique, picturesque location over a four-day period. The focus is on national and international film festival competition finalists of the past year: the “best of the best” in cinema arts. Directors, actors and screenwriters will participate in the screenings both in person and via live electronic transmission. Located at the geographic center of America’s Gulf Coast, the quaint, beautiful and historic bayside city of Fairhope, Ala., is the home of the Festival. The four festival venues, within walking distance of each other, are located in the flower-filled downtown area convenient to restaurants, hotels, locally owned shops and the town bluffs, which boast sweeping views of the 413-square-mile Mobile Bay. The 2014 Fairhope Film Festival takes place Nov. 6-9. Festival passes are available at FairhopeFilmFestival.org.

Celebrating 20 years of music, food and fun, the Gretna Heritage Festival is back this Oct. 3, 4 and 5 like you’ve never seen or heard before! Under the direction of new entertainment producer Blue Deuce Entertainment, this year’s festival will shake things up with more than 50 musical acts, including Lynyrd Skynyrd, Joan Jett & The Blackhearts, Cherub, Gregg Allman Band, Phosphorescent, Robert Randolph & The Family Band, The Guess Who, Big Smo, DJ Wick-it the Instigator and so many more. In addition to big-name music, highlights of the 20th Anniversary celebration include a wide array of food, carnival rides, games, arts and crafts, the Italian Village and German Beer Garden. The Canal Street Ferry operates from the Eastbank straight to the Festival Grounds. A free shuttle is available with free parking at Oakwood Center and free parking is also available at 3rd and Derbigny. Admission is $20 per person ($25 at gate), free for children 12 and under and $47.50 for a weekend pass. Tickets are on sale at Ticketmaster. myneworleans.com / OCTOBER 2014

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For more info and music lineups, visit GretnaFest.com. Experience Cajunicity in Houma, La., located just 55 miles southwest of New Orleans. In Louisiana’s Bayou Country, you don’t only see the sights, you become a part of them. Come discover the joie de vivre, or love of life, that’s ingrained into every aspect of this centuries-old culture. This fall, pass a good time with a great lineup of events including the 11th annual Voice of the Wetlands Festival, Oct. 10-12, which highlights southern Louisiana’s lifestyle and culture. On Oct. 25, celebrate Cajun folklore on the bayou with the fabled Rougarou monster, at the third annual Rougarou Fest, a day-long festival revelling in the thrill of terror while remaining family-friendly. Lastly, be sure to head on over to the Southdown Marketplace Arts & Crafts Festival on Nov. 1, which will feature more than 300 arts and

crafts vendors, Cajun cuisine and more. For information, call 985-868-2732 or visit online at HoumaTravel.com. Downtown Houma is set to host the third annual Rougarou Fest on Sat., Oct. 25, from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. The Rougarou Fest is a family-friendly festival with a spooky flair that celebrates the rich folklore of the werewolf-like “Rougarou” (or “loup-garou”) that exists along the bayous of Southeast Louisiana. It is also the primary fundraiser supporting the South Louisiana Wetlands Discovery Center, a nonprofit organization that is revolutionizing how we think, teach and learn about Louisiana’s disappearing coast. The festival features live music and showcases several wetlands organizations. It kicks off at 10 a.m. with a blessing of the grounds and various children’s activities. A festival costume contest will take place on the courthouse steps at 5 p.m. At 6 p.m. participants will take on a course plagued with zombies and swamp monsters while wearing flag football belts at the Rougarou Run. The Krewe Ga Rou Halloween Parade rolls at 7 p.m. and the festival concludes with a musical performance by the Dirty Bourbon River Show. To sign-up as a volunteer, join the parade crew or register for the run, visit RougarouFest.org or call 985-580-7289. Fall is festival time in the Bayou Lafourche area! October kicks off with La Fete De Vieux Temps, or the “Festival of the Old Times,” in Raceland, Oct. 3-5. The same weekend, dance your way to the Bayou Music Festival on Oct. 4 in Golden Meadow. Food lovers must check out two Southeast Tourism Society “Top 20 Events.” The 43nd annual Louisiana Gumbo Festival (Oct. 17-19) in Chackbay, the “Gumbo Capital of Louisiana,” offers the best in Cajun food, music and dancing. This festival is also an American Bus Association “Top 100 Event” in the U.S.! The 41st Annual French Food Festival in Larose (Oct. 24-26) holds more than 30 local food booths, featuring traditional Bayou classics such as White Oyster Soup, Shrimp Boulettes, Jambalaya and more. Live entertainment and cultural exhibits add to the festival. The Thibodeauxville Fall Festival (Nov. 8) offers live music, a Cajun food court, arts booths and a duck race on Bayou Lafourche. Fall is an ideal season to experience the Cajun way of life. For more information, including special festival hotel rates, visit VisitLafourche.com or call 877-537-5800. Rougarou Fest

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Head northwest to spend a weekend


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in St. Landry Parish, La., beginning Oct. 9. Travel the Zydeco Cajun Prairie Scenic Byway and stop at the Melville Atchafalaya Catfish Festival. That same weekend, take a cemetery tour to delve into the history of some of the more intriguing citizens. Then, shop the Semi Annual Antique Fair & Yard Sale in Washington, where you can be an “American Picker.” The next weekend, find more treasures at 7 Mile+ Yard Sale on Oct. 18 in Arnaudville. Finish out the month at the Oct. 25 Sweet Dough Pie Festival, where thousands of pies are sold – arrive early to get the flavor of your choice! The weekend of Nov. 6-9 plays host to the Port Barre Cracklin Festival. Waste not, want not … that’s how Cajuns invented the cracklin’, which is now featured on many wellknown chefs’ menus. Pig out on delicious food and enjoy one of the best band lineups found outdoors. For more details on these and other experiences, visit CajunTravel.com or call 877-948-8004 to plan your trip. This November, sip your way along 30A at the Seeing Red Wine Festival benefiting the Destin Charity Wine Auction Foundation, a culinary event you won’t want to miss. Now in its 24th year, the festival brings four days of food and wine events to the beautiful beach community of Seaside, Fla. Located in the heart of South Walton, Seaside offers a relaxing atmosphere complemented by lovely beaches and charming, walkable streets. The wine festival is held throughout these streets, allowing visitors to meander while sampling wines, meats, cheeses, chocolates and more as they enjoy the fall beachside weather. The four-day festival begins Nov. 6 with a Vintner’s Din-

ner at Bud & Alley’s Restaurant. Friday’s events include the highly anticipated Al Fresco Reserve Tasting in Seaside’s Lyceum Lawn. The Grand Tasting occurs on Saturday afternoon featuring numerous wines and local craft beers, along with local restaurants and live music. The weekend closes with a Sunday Wine Brunch, A Celebration of Bubbles and the Fall Walkabout & Charity Auction. For more information on the events, tickets and lodging packages, visit SeeingRedWineFestival.com. Since 1928, the Deutsches Haus New Orleans has celebrated and fostered the rich culture, musical heritage, language and history of the German people. The Haus features organizations dedicated to German song, dance and language and for years the Haus has awarded numerous scholarships for German language and history students to study abroad. In the fall of each year, however, the Deutsches Haus New Orleans is known for one thing: Oktoberfest! Oktoberfest 2014 is here and will run for three consecutive weekends this month in the spacious Rivertown in Kenner. The Fest runs Oct. 10-11, 17-18 and 24-25. These six days will be filled with live German music, traditional German food and, of course, dozens of unique German beers. This year’s event will also include Wiener dog races, Stein-holding contests and booths with activities for kids. For more information about Oktoberfest 2014, visit DeutschesHaus. org or facebook.com/DeutschesHausNOLA. Just 40 miles north of the Big Easy, the historic City of Covington lies enveloped by scenic rivers, live oak trees and

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fragrant long-leaf pines. Covington’s charming downtown offers an abundance of world-class dining and entertainment options, as well as unique boutiques and art galleries where you can discover one-of-a kind treasures. Fall in Covington is especially busy with events. Every Thursday in October, the city hosts Rockin’ the Rails, free concerts at the Covington Trailhead from 5-7:30 p.m. that feature celebrated local and regional musicians. Fall in Covington boasts several other events, including the St. Tammany Art Association’s Fall for Art on Oct. 18. The Three Rivers Art Festival brings more than 200 artists from all over the country to downtown Covington Nov. 15-16 for a weekend of arts, music and children’s activities. Downtown Covington also features numerous restaurants, music venues and the charm that makes living in the south so special. After any Covington event, blissfully end your evening with an overnight stay at one of many charming bed and breakfasts or at the newly renovated Southern Hotel. Visit covla. com for more information. This November, also in Covington, experience a winning combination of fine art and festival atmosphere. The Covington Three Rivers Art Festival, now in its 18th year, brings fine art, crafts, and music to the quaint and friendly downtown area, featuring an Arts Alive Tent with live demonstrations by exhibiting artists, a live music stage, an expansive food court and a Children’s Discovery Area complete with a performance stage. This high-end art and fine crafts festival takes place Nov. 15-16, from 10 a.m.-5 p.m., and will feature 200 juried artists from 20 states. There is no charge for admission. Every year, art lovers stroll down charming Columbia Street to view the five blocks of artist tents situated in the heart of the historic downtown area. With plenty of children’s activities and Student Art Exhibits, the kids will also feel right at home among the colorful array of arts and crafts. No pets allowed. For more information, visit ThreeRiversArtFestival.com.

Do & See Locally! Generations Hall is one of New Orleans’ most celebrated event spaces. This renovated 1820s warehouse is meticulously designed to cater to events of all sizes and types. The art of George Schmidt and Xavier deCallatay adorn the walls and tell the history of New Orleans jazz. Patrons may stroll through three rooms either by way of the ground floor or by a beautiful balcony system that connects the three spacious rooms, all of which can either be rented separately or as a whole. Additionally, a New Orleans-style courtyard can be used for an outdoor cocktail reception. From 50 to 10,000 people, Generations Hall is perfect for any type of private function, banquet, concert, luncheon, wedding, block party or convention meeting of any size. Seven fully stocked bars, three separate restroom facilities, a state-of-the-art AV system and a full time professional staff ensure that your event is completely turnkey. Generations Hall’s on-site catering team can work with you to create a culinary experience your guests won’t forget. For more information on Generations Hall booking and events, visit GenerationsHall.com or call 504-581-4367. A dynamic arts institution nestled among the live oaks of Tulane University’s uptown campus, the Newcomb Art Gallery

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was born out of the rich creative legacy of Newcomb College, internationally renowned for its fine arts program and pottery studio. The gallery sustains this heritage by presenting diverse shows by historically significant and noted emerging artists, with a particular focus on women. All gallery exhibitions and programs are offered to the community free of charge. From Oct. 25 to Jan. 25, 2015, the gallery will take part in the citywide biennial, Prospect.3, with exhibitions of works by Hew Locke, Monir Farmanfarmaian, Ebony Patterson and Andrea Fraser. Franklin Sirmans of LACMA will serve as the shows’ guest curator. An easy ride up the St. Charles streetcar line, the gallery is open Tuesday through Friday 10 a.m.-5 p.m. and Saturday and Sunday 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Learn more at NewcombArtGallery.tulane.edu or call 504-865-5328. Southern Lacrosse will again sponsor clinics for coaches and players by Rogue Lacrosse. Fall clinic dates include a free clinic for coaches and players on Oct. 11-12 and an Advanced Skills clinic Nov. 22-23, which requires a letter of recommendation from your coach. Lacrosse is the fastest growing game on two feet. Over the past seven years in Louisiana, the game has grown exponentially and now has more than 20 men’s/boy’s teams statewide. The sport continues to grow rapidly in the New Orleans region, with more schools adding it to their athletic programs. The game of lacrosse requires agility, speed and good hand/ eye coordination. There is no special age or size that makes a player good at the sport, simply the desire to stay in shape while having a great and competitive time. Find all of your lacrosse needs at Southern Lacrosse, located at 1517 Keubel St. in Harahan. You can also visit them online at Southern-Lacrosse.com or call the store for information at 504-826-9425.

Travel Destinations Southdown Marketplace Arts & Crafts Festival

Big Bay Lake is a one-of-a-kind planned community on Mississippi’s largest private recreational lake. Located just outside of Hattiesburg, Big Bay Lake blends seamlessly into its natural surroundings. Homesites are available on the water starting at $100,000. Both the homes and homesites within this community provide unique opportunities to create the


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perfect home or weekend getaway. It’s time to relax, unplug, make memories and create new traditions at Big Bay. Whether you are a boating or fishing enthusiast, or just a family who loves to make a big splash, Big Bay Lake is simply about the lure of the water. Come enjoy sun-kissed, fun-filled days at Big Bay Lake, “where the little things make life ... BIG!” Big Bay Lake is only 90 minutes from New Orleans. Call for a boat tour today at 877-4BIG-BAY or visit BigBayLake.com.

Spanish Sojourns: Robert Henri and the Spirit of Spain is on view at the Mississippi Museum of Art in Jackson, Miss., beginning Sept. 27. It is the latest presentation of The Annie Laurie Swaim Hearin Memorial Exhibition Series, exploring the Spanish paintings of Henri, who played a pivotal role in the history of American art. His Spanish portraits feature singers, dancers, musicians, bullfighters & gypsies. Accompanying exhibitions include Robert Henri and Spain, Face to Face, presenting works by Henri & his predecessors – El Greco, Ribera, Manet, Cassatt and Sargent; and the 2014 Mississippi Invitational, showcasing work by contemporary Mississippi artists. Spanish Sojourns: Robert Henri and the Spirit of Spain is organized by the Telfair Museums, Savannah, Ga. This exhibition is made possible through the generous support of the Mr. and Mrs. Raymond J. Horowitz Foundation for the Arts, Terra Foundation for American Art and the National Endowment for the Arts. Local presentation of these exhibitions is made possible through the Robert M. Hearin Support Foundation. Visit MSMuseumArt.org or call 601-960-1515. Where would you like to be this fall? Relaxing on soft white sand beaches, enjoying deliciously fresh seafood, shopping at designer outlets, watching spectacular sunsets with family and friends? If the answer is “yes,” Newman-Dailey Resort Properties is ready to help. Fall rates are discounted up to 45 percent and autumn packages bring added value. In honor of National Breast Cancer Awareness Month, Newman-Dailey is introducing the Celebration Vacation, which includes a champagne welcome basket, a $100 gift card to Silver Sands Premium Outlets and more. For each package purchased, Newman-Dailey will donate $50 to the fight against breast cancer in the guest’s name. Newman-Dailey is also featuring “3 for 15,” providing 15 percent off three night stays and “4 for 20,” providing 20 percent off stays of four nights or more. The Celebration Vacation is available with stays of three nights or more through Oct. 31. To learn more, call 1-800-225-7653 or visit DestinVacation.com.

Dining & Imbibing For a great Louisiana weekend escape, stop by any of the Tropical Isles, home of the Hand Grenade®, New Orleans’ Most Powerful Drink®. Also, enjoy a Hand Grenade at Funky Pirate Blues Club or Bayou Club. Experience Trop Rock, Cajun/Zydeco and the Blues with Tropical Isle’s nightly entertainment, the best on Bourbon. State-of-the-art sound

Amici

systems plus great live bands will keep you dancing the night away at Tropical Isle Bourbon, Tropical Isle Original, Little Tropical Isle, Funky Pirate and the Bayou Club. While you are there, ask about the new Hand Grenade® Martini! Tropical Isle® celebrates its 30th anniversary all year long. Join them for football at any of their locations. Enjoy big screen TV’s at Funky Pirate, Bayou Club, Tropical Isle Bourbon and Top of the Trop. For more on Tropical Isle, visit Tropicalisle.com. For a quiet escape, visit local favorite The Orleans Grapevine Wine Bar & Bistro right off of Bourbon at 720 Orleans Ave., which has more than 200 varieties of wine by the bottle and plenty of wine by the glass. For sample menus and wine lists, visit OrleansGrapevine.com. They’re shucking into fall with Oyster Fete at cafe b, starting Oct. 1! Choose from eight dishes featuring premium Gulf oysters or visit the raw bar for Gulf, East, or West Coast freshly shucked oysters on the half-shell with specialty cocktails and paired wines. Happy Hour runs from 3-7 p.m., Monday through Friday and features $.50 oysters and $5 cocktails! For more information, menus and to make reservations, visit cafeb.com. Rock-n-Sake is known across South Louisiana as being where “The Music Rocks and the Food Rolls!” With locations in New Orleans and Baton Rouge, Rock-n-Sake is known for its rockin’ atmosphere and expansive menu of sushi, small plates, signature sake drinks, sashimi, noodles, entrées and sweets. Fan favorites include the Salmon Zest Roll, which features snow crab and salmon topped with fresh salmon & freshly

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Hour features half-priced well drinks, glasses of house wine, draft beer and domestic bottled beer, as well as $5 martinis, frozen daiquiris, peach Bellinis and Piña Coladas. Additionally, they offer the large Crash & Burn, which serves two, for $9.99. Enjoy half-priced selected appetizers such as the Spicy Crawfish Cheese Fries, Onion-Mum®, Artichoke and Spinach Dip, Bayou Broccoli® and stuffed mushrooms. For more information on Copeland’s of New Orleans, including menus and locations visit CopelandsOfNewOrleans.com.

Rock-n-Sake

grated lemon zest served with a spicy ponzu dipping sauce and of course the LSU Roll, tempura shrimp and cream cheese rolled with layers of snowcrab, avocado and tuna on the outside, drizzled with eel sauce. Rock-n-Sake’s small plates pack big flavor in dishes such as the Pork Belly Lettuce Wraps, a perfect balance of sweet and savory and the Sushi Deviled Eggs, which take the classic dish to another level. In New Orleans, the private party room known as the KAI Lounge can seat up to 55 comfortably and is equipped with its own custom sushi bar and advanced Audio/Visual capabilities. For reservations, catering and additional information, visit RocknSake.com. Rock-n-Sake was the winner of the People’s Choice Award at New Orleans’ inaugural Sushi Fest! Fall is the perfect time to experience a courtyard cocktail at Broussard’s Restaurant. The acclaimed Empire Bar now offers an Imperial Happy Hour seven days a week for three hours (4-7 p.m.), featuring $3 drink specials, $3 Moules et Frites and $3 glasses ($12 bottles) of featured red, white and rose wines. “We invite guests to come and relax in the bar or on the courtyard with a Pimm’s Cup or glass of wine and share the moules et frites,” says Chris Ycaza, Broussard’s General Manager. The mussels come from Prince Edward Island and are served with truffled olive salad fries. The happy hour special includes three variations: Marinières, Fra Diavolo and Forestière. Head Bartender and Marshal of Imperial Libations, Paul Gustings serves freshly made Imperial Pimm’s Cups for $3 each (while they last). For more information on the Empire Bar and its signature drinks or Broussard’s menu, visit Broussards.com or call 504581-3866 to make reservations. Copeland’s of New Orleans combines New Orleans flavor and comfort in a casual dining atmosphere. Known for its fromscratch cuisine, fresh premium ingredients, sauces and seasonings are blended to bring out the robust signature flavors of New Orleans in every dish – seafood, pasta, salads, steaks and more. Enjoy exceptional food and hospitality by stopping by one of several locations. Copeland’s Happy Hour is Monday through Friday, 4-7 p.m. and all week from 9 p.m.–close (in lounge only). Happy 112

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A modern Japanese restaurant, sushi bar and bar with a New Orleans twist, Chiba is embedded in the diverse restaurant scene along Oak Street. “We source fish from all over the world, butcher everything in-house, make all sauces in-house and pickle our own vegetables. We take an immense amount of pride in the way we do things,” says Keith Dusko, owner/founder. Careful attention is paid to every detail – even Chiba’s sushi rice is specially prepared using house-made sushi vinegar. Sushi highlights include the Hawaiian Tiradito with Ahi, King Salmon and Nariagi with organic white truffle oil and a red Hawaiian sea salt. Additionally, the St. Charles Avenue Roll incorporates salmon, avocado and mango with yellowtail, spicy mayo and crunchy and black tobiko. “Funk & Roll” happy hour offers reduced prices on drinks and apps from 4-6 p.m. Monday-Saturday and “Reverse Happy Hour” is offered late-night, the last hour of each night. Chiba boasts the most extensive sake menu in the city, containing some sakes available nowhere else in the state. For more information and to view the menu, visit chibanola.com. Call 504-826-9119 and follow on Twitter (@ chibanola). Located in the Lower Garden District and just blocks from Downtown New Orleans, Hoshun Restaurant delivers a flavorful punch of pan-Asian flavors with their own take on traditional dishes from China, Japan, Vietnam and other South-Asian countries. Popular menu items include pho soup and Vietnamese spring rolls, pad Thai, sushi, General Tso’s Chicken, Hunan steak, Kung Pao shrimp and more. Open daily until 2 a.m., Hoshun is a favorite late-night spot for locals and visiCopeland's of New Orleans


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tors alike. Visitors can look forward to the addition of sharable small plates to the menu in the near future. Whether you’re looking for seafood, steak or vegetarian fare, Hoshun’s extensive menu provides options for everyone. Salt & Pepper Shrimp and Ahi Tuna Seared are a couple of Hoshun’s seafood specialties, while Butter Pepper Mignon offers a meatier possibility. For menu and information, visit HoshunRestaurant.com or call 504-302-9716. Located at 1601 St. Charles Ave., Hoshun offers a private party room overlooking the St. Charles Avenue streetcar line fitting between 25-70 people. Located just steps off Bourbon Street in the heart of the beloved French Quarter, Arnaud’s offers classic Creole cuisine and exemplary service in beautifully restored, turn-of-thecentury dining rooms. Since its inception in 1918, Arnaud’s has remained true to its traditions and courtesies. Enjoy live Dixieland Jazz in the Jazz Bistro, authentic New Orleans dining in the Main Dining Room, cocktails in the world renowned French 75 Bar and 14 private dining rooms perfect for any occasion. Arnaud’s delivers a quintessential New Orleans experience to locals and visitors alike. Beginning Oct. 8, Arnaud’s will launch new a la carte and dessert menu items. This season, celebrate your special occasion with family and friends with Arnaud’s for a truly memorable dining experience. Arnaud’s is open nightly for dinner and private dining and offers brunch every Sunday. For more information or to make reservations, call 504-523-5433 or visit ArnaudsRestaurant.com. For a decade, Austin’s Restaurant has been known as Metairie’s hot spot for steak, seafood and the Creole-Italian creations of Restaurateur Ed McIntyre and his esteemed culinary staff. Garnering awards and accolades from critics and readers alike, readers of New Orleans Magazine named Austin’s “Favorite Steak House” and voted founder Ed McIntyre as a “New Orleanian of the Year” in 2010. Austin’s impressive menu includes signature appetizers, soups and salads such as the popular Austin’s Louisiana Creole Crab Salad and Oyster Fitzgerald, as well as the finest aged USDA steaks and savory Creole-Italian entrées of seafood, veal, duck and pork. Austin’s is located at 5101 W. Esplanade in Metairie. For more information or to make reservations, call 504-888-5533. Visit Austin’s online at AustinsNO.com. Private party rooms are available for luncheons, banquets and rehearsal dinners. For more casual fare, McIntyre also oversees Mr. Ed’s Seafood & Italian Restaurant, Mr. Ed’s Oyster Bar & Fish House and Cheeseburger Eddie’s. Just over a year ago, great Asian flavor rolled its way into Lakeview with the opening of Lakeview Pearl

Sushi Bar & Asian Bistro. Already, the critics and community have spoken, bestowing Lakeview Pearl with three awards at the inaugural New Orleans Sushi Fest. Lakeview Pearl’s sushi was awarded Best Presentation, Best Texture Combination (for the Ruby Roll) and Best Use of Wasabi. Visit Lakeview Pearl at 6300 Canal Blvd. and taste the “best” for yourself! Neighborhood favorites include, of course, the Harrison Roll, which consists of snow crab, cucumber, shrimp tempura and cream cheese inside and topped with crunchy, smelt roe and creamy sauce. The Cowboy Roll is another favorite, featuring snow crab and crawfish inside and topped with seared rib eye, eel sauce, green onion and sesame seeds. In addition to sushi, Lakeview Pearl’s menu also features classic Pan-Asian dishes for both dinner and lunch. For menus and information, visit LakeviewPearl.com. Five Happiness, New Orleans’s award-winning Chinese restaurant, offers a delicious menu of Sichuan and Hunan specialties in a newly renovated sleek and elegant dining room. Enjoy the succulent shrimp with honey roasted pecans, General’s Chicken or asparagus sautéed with garlic sauce in a comfortable and unique setting distinguished by its authentic Chinese décor of etched glass and Chinese paintings. The dining room, now split into three rooms, provides a more private dining experience for guests. The well-known and affordable Imperial Room is available at Five Happiness for private parties, receptions or other functions and can hold from 50-150 people. Serving options are customized for each party, ranging from sit-down dinners to buffets or cocktails with hors d’oeuvres and prices ranging from $20-$45 per person. For more information, call 504-482-3935 or visit FiveHappiness.com.

Fall Fashion & Gifts

Mr. Ed's Bar & Fish House

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Dale Gedert has focused on foot care for more than 40 years. He brings his expertise to Greater New Orleans with the opening of Therapeutic Shoes, a shopping resource for those suffering from a wide variety of conditions such as arthritis, diabetes, flat feet, heel spurs, plantar fasciitis, bunions, calluses, edema, leg length discrepancies, as well as knee, hip and back pain, and more. “We specialize in custom accommodative foot orthotics, stylish extra depth shoes, diabetic shoes, custom shoes, shoe modifications, compression wear and diabetic socks,” says Gedert. “We’ve got over 175 styles and colors of men’s and women’s shoes.” Therapeutic Shoes features an in-house orthotic lab with certified personnel who handle all custom orthotics and shoe modifications. They offer a large selection of compression wear. Their socks are hand-made with bamboo charcoal fiber, seamless and shaped to fit the foot for reducing fatigue and preventing circulation problems. “The science your feet need – the comfort you deserve.” Therapeutic Shoes is located at 408 Maine St. in Jefferson. For more information and hours, call 504-832-3933. A New Orleans native, artist and designer Cristy Cali has a knack for capturing the spirit of New Orleans with designs in silver and gold. Cristy’s Collection is a line of jewelry focused on and inspired by the architecture, rich culture and fascinating history of New Orleans. Cristy’s Collection features necklaces, bracelets, pendants, rings, earrings and more – each piece exhibiting a love of New Orleans and an appreciation of style. From well-known landmarks such as St. Louis Cathedral and the Superdome to popular local indulgences such as snowballs and the Roman 114

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Candy Co., Cristy’s Collection highlights not only the city, but also the community. Additionally, Cristy Cali has revolutionized the tradition of wedding cake pulls with Cristy Couture charms. Cristy Couture Pulls offer an exciting new way to approach the event. Brides have the option of classy pearl bracelets or colored satin ribbon to pull the charms, allowing bridesmaids to immediately wear their new charms. For a list of retailers or to shop online, visit CristyCali.com. The French Market District is a scenic six-block shopping, dining and entertainment area in the French Quarter from Café du Monde to the Farmers and Flea Markets, including The Shops at the Upper Pontalba on Jackson Square. Stroll this “neighborhood within a neighborhood” to experience historic architecture, public parks, outdoor dining, live music, boutique retail shopping and unique souvenirs. Convenient riverside parking plus nearby streetcars, carriages and pedicab stops make this a relaxing and manageable destination for all ages. The entire French Market District is open seven days a week, 365 days a year, from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. (with some restaurants open later). With live music daily at restaurants and cafes, free special events on weekends, annual festivals such as the French Market Creole Tomato Festival, plus ongoing concerts, culinary series’ and walking tours, it’s easy to see why ”It’s always festival season at the French Market.” Visit FrenchMarket.org to learn more about America’s Oldest Continually Operating Public Market, “handmade and homegrown since 1791”. While Trashy Diva is a distinctly New Orleans clothing com-


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pany with six locations spread across the city, their vintageinspired designs are known and coveted worldwide. For more than 17 years, Trashy Diva has provided customers with vintage flair and classic style. Original and vintage-inspired designs in dresses by Candice Gwinn suit a modern sensibility with a focus on creating feminine styles that flatter a variety of body types, from size 0 through 18. Select styles are also available up to a size 24. Arrive in style to Saints games this fall with the vintage fleur de lis inspired Grand Fleur Collection, available exclusively at Trashy Diva. The collection makes its seasonal appearance in stores this month. From bustiers to burlesque, Trashy Diva now offers the ultimate party experience for your closest group of girlfriends. Celebrating a bachelorette or birthday party? Hosting an after-hours event at a Trashy Diva Lingerie Boutique can make for a memorable night of fun and entertainment. Shop online or find more info at TrashyDiva.com or call 504-299-3939. Saint Germain welcomes the latest in fall designs. Western boots, as well as ankle and open-toed boots from acclaimed designer Donald J Pliner will be a big hit this season. Pliner and his wife, Lisa, visited the store earlier this year and featured seasonal items and their new Italian-made Signature Collection, which is exclusive to Saint Germain and 20 other selected stores across the nation. Visit Saint Germain this month to see what’s new! In addition to Pliner’s award-winning shoes and hand-

bags, Saint Germain carries French hair accessories and fine jewelry and handbags by designers from all over the world as well as Arche, a timeless line of French-made, comfort-focused shoes reintroduced to Saint Germain over the summer. Arche designer boots, shoes and sandals are hand-crafted by artisans located just outside of Paris and are constructed with a 100 percent natural Latex cushioning system for maximum durability, flexibility and unrelenting shock absorption. To see the latest designs, or for more information, visit SaintGermainNewOrleans.com or call 504-522-1720. For some of the most iconic and traditional New Orleans designs in art, jewelry, accessories and gifts, be sure to visit the designers at Fleur d’ Orleans at 3701-A Magazine St. or 818 Chartres St. in the French Quarter. Fleur d’ Orleans has designed more than 150 different pieces of sterling silver jewelry, inspired by art and architectural designs found around the city, so you can celebrate and share the design heritage of New Orleans. Whether you need handmade sterling silver earrings, brooches or pendants, semi-precious jewels set in sterling, beautiful silk scarves, or handmade paper notecards, you will find a rich array of designer accessories at Fleur d’ Orleans. Fleur d’ Orleans designs are exclusive to their shops and can’t be found anywhere else. You can also view their exclusive designs online and order with free shipping from their Web site, FleurDOrleans.com. For more information and hours, call 504-899-5585 (Magazine) or 504- 475-5254 (Chartres). •

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Cancer Survival & Medical Guide O

ctober is National Breast Cancer Awareness month and as the color pink appears among the fall hues, women across the country are reminded to be proactive in their health, conduct self-exams and schedule mammograms with their physicians. October is also a month to honor cancer survivors. Thanks to

today’s advances in treatment and in early detection, there are more survivors than ever. This Cancer Survival & Medical Guide serves to provide information and resources for people encountering or looking to learn more about any type of cancer, breast cancer included. South Louisiana is full of health care providers, businesses and services that can be helpful during any stage of a cancer diagnosis and in preventing one as well.

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Cancer Centers, Hospitals and Clinics The LaNasa-Greco Center for Cancer and Blood Disorders at Children's Hospital treats more than 1,100 children with cancer or blood disorders each year, more than all other facilities in Louisiana combined. The hospital provides treatment and transplantation for children with leukemia, lymphoma, sickle cell anemia, hemophilia and other childhood cancers and blood disorders. Children's Hospital's Cancer Program is accredited with an outstanding achievement award by the American College of Surgeons and is a member of the Children's Oncology Group (COG), a national study group of premier research institutes in the U.S. and Canada. The Bone Marrow Transplant Program is FACT-accredited since 2008. Hospital physicians have access to the most modern therapies for treatment of malignancies and blood disorders in children. Children's Hospital recently received accreditation from the Department of Health and Human Services as a federally recognized Hemophilia Treatment Center (HTC), to provide state-of-the-art comprehensive multispecialty care to Louisiana children with all types of bleeding disorders. For more information, contact Children's Hospital's Cancer Center at 504-896-9740 or CHNola.org/cancer. Patients suffering from brain cancer no longer have to travel out of town for treatment. The doctors at Culicchia Neurological Clinic are skilled in the treatment of tumors of the brain and spine. Medical Director Frank Culicchia M.D., is chairman of the LSU Health Sciences Department of Neurosurgery and, through an association with the LSU School of Medicine, the clinic offers the latest medical options for treatment. The Clinic recently opened the new CNC Hearing and Balance Center for the treatment and diagnosis of hearing, balance, facial nerve and skull base disorders, including acoustic neuromas. Culicchia Neurological has offices Uptown, in Slidell and in Marrero. Appointments may be made by calling 504340-6976 or emailing cnc@culicchianeuro.com. For more information, visit CulicchiaNeuro.com. While many women and men are aware that October is National Breast Cancer Awareness Month, it’s important also to remember to take the steps to beat breast cancer. For starters, know the recommendations for screening mammograms. If you don’t, see your doctor or visit Cancer.org or Komen.org. Tell family and friends breast cancer is beatable. In October, West Jefferson Medical Center (WJMC) is offering $100 Screening Mammograms. To schedule your appointment today, call 504-349-6300. Walk-ins are welcomed. WJMC is also observing Breast Cancer Awareness Month by hosting an “I Pink I Can” two-mile fun run/walk Sat., Oct. 11 at 9 a.m. Free T-shirts and Jambalaya Cook-Off Meal Tickets are guaranteed for all pre-registrants. You can also register the day of the event. All proceeds benefit the Cancer Center at West Jefferson Medical. To register online, go to wjmc.org/funrun. The fun run/walk will start at the Cancer Center located at 4513 West Bank Expressway, Marrero, La.

Serving Thibodaux and the Bayou Region, the Cancer Center of Thibodaux Regional has been a leader in the fight against cancer for more than 20 years. Accredited with Commendation by the American College of Surgeons Commission on Cancer and the only program in Louisiana to receive the College’s Outstanding Achievement Award three times, the Center provides comprehensive quality care in a compassionate environment. The Cancer Center utilizes the latest technology, allowing patients to experience many benefits including earlier and more precise diagnosis, detection of small tumors, avoidance of invasive procedures, fewer side effects and better chances for a positive outcome. Chemotherapy and surgical services are provided, as well as a Patient Care Navigation Program in which patients are guided through the cancer care system. The Patient Care Coordinator works to make sure that all patients with positive pathology receive information and assistance to help them obtain timely diagnosis, treatment (if necessary) and follow up. Patients also receive the best in aftercare services, including Home Health Services and Lymphedema Management. To find out more about the Cancer Center of Thibodaux Regional, visit Thibodaux.com. Breast cancer is the second most diagnosed cancer among women in the U.S. The Tulane Breast Surgery Center offers state-of-the art screening through the use of 3D digital mammograms and care for overall breast health. Comprehensive breast care is accomplished by a multidisciplinary breast care team that includes doctors, geneticists, nurses, counselors, physical therapists and specialized technicians. The Patricia Trost Friedler Cancer Counseling Center offers support groups for patients and their family members as well as being a valuable resource library. Tulane’s Board Certified and compassionate plastic surgeons also offer breast reconstruction for those who have had a lumpectomy or mastectomy. Options for reconstruction include use of breast implants, use of a patient's own tissue or a combination of both, depending on what is best for the patient’s health and well being. For a consultation with a plastic surgeon at the Tulane Breast Surgery Center, please contact 504-988-8100 or visit CancerIsCurable.com for more information. As the region’s only member of the MD Anderson Cancer Network, East Jefferson General Hospital (EJFH) is a regional leader in survivorship. EJGH offered the region’s first cancer navigator program. Add to that their cancer wellness program at the Wellness Center and you begin to see that EJGH develops programming specifically built around the goal and concept of survivorship. EJGH’s recently expanded cancer infusion center and inpatient cancer wing are both testaments to their commitment to fighting cancer. Additionally, EJGH offers the region’s only center with the new UroNav Prostate Biopsy System and they are expanding their Breast Care Center to offer 3D mammography to more women than ever before. Sadly, the forecast for this region projects more cancer diagnoses in the next two decades. EJGH is poised to take on that battle and help hundreds win it. For more on their innovative cancer screenings, treatments and survivorship programs, visit ejgh.org.

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Westbank Plastic Surgery is a small private practice with a dedicated staff of doctors and medical professionals who are among the best in their fields. Charles L. Dupin, M.D., F.A.C.S. and Jonathan C. Boraski M.D., D.M.D., F.A.C.S., specialize in breast reconstruction as well as cosmetic procedures, other reconstructive procedures and microsurgery. Dr. Dupin is a pioneer in the development of breast reconstruction using the DIEP free flap. He is Clinical Professor and Director of Plastic Surgery training at Louisiana State University. Dr. Boraski trained at Louisiana State University and is highly respected in the field of breast reconstruction. These doctors lead their talented staff with a patient-oriented philosophy, providing top quality reconstructive procedures, cosmetic surgery and medical care. Services include abdominoplasty, facial procedures, breast surgeries, liposuction, bracheoplasty, fat injections, body-contouring procedures, chemical peels (aggressive and non aggressive), Botox, Juvederm, as well as treatment of skin cancers and breast reconstruction. The practice also provides facials, massages, waxing, Fraxel and Clear + Brilliant. They accept most health insurance plans and offer financing for patient services. Please call the office for monthly specials 504-349-6460 or visit WestbankPlasticSurgery.com. There are more newly diagnosed skin cancers each year than breast, prostate and colon cancers combined, which is why the doctors and health care professionals at Academic Dermatology Associates (ADA) stress the importance of annual screenings and the awareness of warning signs and potential dangers to skin. Board-certified Drs. Leonard Gately III, Lee Nesbitt Jr., Brian D. Lee, Michelle Gerdes and Tamela Charbonnet offer annual full body skin cancer screenings to new and existing patients and work to deliver individualized treatments and preventative measures. ADA encourages patients and people everywhere to take precautions in protecting themselves from the sun’s harmful UV rays. Wear protective clothing and apply sun block every two hours while outdoors. A variety of cosmetically elegant sunscreens are available. Combining these precautions with regular screenings is anyone’s best bet for ensuring continued health. The doctors at ADA also treat a full range of skin issues such as chronic and acute conditions like poison ivy and psoriasis and they provide cosmetic procedures such as Botox, chemical peels and laser treatments. They are located at the corner of 14th and Causeway avenues in Metairie. For scheduling, call 504-832-6612.

Heart Health Providing state-of-the-art cardiovascular care for more than 30 years, Cardiovascular Institute of the South (CIS) is known as a world leader in preventing and treating both cardiovascular and peripheral arterial disease, also known as PAD. Symptoms of PAD include leg pain or cramps, numbness, ulcers or discoloration. Those at risk include anyone over the age of 50, especially African Americans; those who smoke or have smoked; and those who have diabetes, high blood pressure, high blood cholesterol or family history of vascular disease, heart attack, or stroke. A simple, painless test called an ankle-brachial index 118

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(ABI) can determine your risk of PAD and the condition is treatable. If you think you may be at risk for PAD or heart disease, contact your doctor. For more information about CIS, call 800-425-2565 or visit Cardio.com to find a list of our 14 locations.

Home Health & Hospice Anyone looking for compassionate and dignified care for their terminally ill loved ones should take a look at the services offered by Canon Hospice. The caring team at Canon is dedicated to a hospice ministry that helps patients and families accept terminal illness positively and resourcefully. Their stated goal is to “allow our patients to live each day to the fullest and enjoy their time with family and friends.” With special expertise in pain management and symptom control, Canon Hospice designs individualized plans of care for each patient based on his or her unique needs. Home Based Services provide doctors, nurses, social workers, pastoral care and volunteers. For patients with more intensive symptom management needs, Canon has an Inpatient Hospice Unit. This unit provides 24-hour care in a home-like environment where patients are permitted to receive visits at any hour. For more information, visit CanonHospice.com or call 504-818-2723. Established in 1925, Nurses Registry continues to serve the health care needs of the Greater New Orleans area and remains a vital community resource. The founder, Rose Mary S Breaux, RN, BSN, believed it is an honor and privilege to care for the sick and aging in our community and to treat the whole patient— Body, Mind and Spirit. Nurses Registry doesn’t just send out a caregiver. All staff members are personally interviewed, carefully screened and receive hands-on training, orientation and on-site supervision by licensed health care professionals. There is also a team of office staff available to assist clients on non-clinical matters. As an added value, clients have the full set of resources of a Medicare-certified home health agency at their disposal. Nurses Registry provides private duty nursing as well as an array of private medical and non-medical support services. Any service can be completely customized based on individual needs in collaboration with family and/or the physician, if desired. Call 504-736-0803 or 866-736-6744 for a personalized in-home assessment. Nurses Registry provides “Care for Them and Peace of Mind for You.” Visit MyNursesRegistry.com for more info. Chartered in 1891, The John J. Hainkel, Jr. Home and Rehabilitation Center and Adult Day Health Care is located in Uptown New Orleans and provides health care services including a range of skilled services in its new Parkside Red Rehabilitation Wing. Services are available to individuals with private pay, private insurance, VA benefits and Medicaid/Medicare benefits. In 1979, the facility was sold to the state. The original non-profit organization leased it back from the state in April 2011. As a privately operated non-profit, it exhibits the high-


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est quality of care; Hainkel received “0” deficiencies in its most recent annual surveys conducted by the Department of Health & Hospitals in both the Nursing Home and the Adult Day Health Care. The Hainkel Home promotes quality of life as a unique and caring alternative for the elderly and those who suffer from serious illnesses and disabilities. In addition to long-term care, they provide respite care, rehabto-home and other short-term stays. Please call 504-896-5904 to schedule a tour of The Hainkel Home facilities and see why it is the right choice for your family. Visit HainkelHome.com for additional information.

Additional Resources Avita Pharmacy was started in 2003 with a mission to provide the best possible pharmacy experience. Over the past 11 years, Avita has become a Full-Service Specialty Pharmacy providing HIV, Hepatitis C, Mental Health, Organ Transplant and other complex medication therapies providing oral and injectable drug therapies. Avita has successfully partnered with community organizations, medical providers and caregivers to meet Avita’s goal of helping patients live longer, healthier and more productive lives through medication

adherence programs, free delivery and financial assistance programs. Avita loves to support community organizations though volunteering and sponsorship efforts. Did you know that Avita gives back to the community with each prescription we dispense? Let Avita fill your prescription today and you will be giving back tomorrow! For more information, please visit AvitaPharmacy.com. According to the American Cancer Society, more than 1 million people in the U.S. get cancer each year. Whether you are looking for information on prevention or treatment, Blue Cross and Blue Shield of Louisiana has you covered. The wellness section of the Blue Cross Web site gives you a variety of resources, including information on risk factors, tests and procedures, diagnosis, treatment side effects and living with cancer. On the site, you will find fact sheets, videos, podcasts, news, interactive tools such as quizzes and risk assessments and a comprehensive wellness library. You can even look at gender- and age-based prevention guidelines that tell you what tests and immunizations you need to stay healthy at each stage of life. Blue Cross members also have access to a personal health assessment tool. The online questionnaire asks about your health and lifestyle to determine your risks and gives you a customized report to help you lower them. Visit wellness.bcbsla.com to take the first step toward a healthier life. •

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ADVERTISING SECTION

Personal Benefits: Security in Health, Finance and Family

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ealthy bodies and healthy bank accounts are two things we generally strive to maintain, not just for our own sakes, but for our families. Preparation for the unexpected is an important aspect of maintaining security, be it for your home, your health, your business or your finances. Fortunately, New Orleans is full of professionals ready to help. From obtaining insurance and a home or car loan to making investments for your family’s future, area experts and institutions can offer national assistance with a local touch. Find your family the safety it needs with a variety of services from trusted regional advisors and providers. Rooted in the communities they serve, Fidelity is a full service bank owned by its customers. Since its founding in 1908, Fidelity has grown with the community’s changing needs to offer a complete array of banking services. In addition to commercial, consumer and residential loans, Fidelity has expanded its lending capabilities to include small business, home equity and construction loans. The bank is focused on quality personal service, competitive rates and strong local ties, following a relationship banking philosophy that looks beyond transactions and numbers. Fidelity bankers work to solve customer needs every day at every office, with in-house decision-making and extraordinary service. For more information on Fidelity , visit FidelityHomestead. com, call 800-220-2497 or visit your nearest Fidelity branch.

Experience the IBERIABANK difference today. Headquartered in Louisiana for more than 127 years, IBERIABANK has strength, stability and security that you can count on for your financial wellness. Visit any of their convenient locations in New Orleans or Northshore to experience their tradition of excellence firsthand. Their relationship-based approach to banking focuses on local decision making so you can enjoy the things in life that matter most. For more information, visit IberiaBank.com or call 800682-3231. Recent changes to federal securities laws were designed to make fundraising more accessible for small companies while helping create jobs. For companies meeting certain requirements, one change permits general solicitation and advertising in connection with an unregistered securities offering. myneworleans.com / OCTOBER 2014

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Companies can still raise unlimited funds from accredited investors in unregistered offerings that do not involve general solicitation or advertising. Once final, proposed crowdfunding rules would allow a company to raise up to $1 million per year from investors exclusively online through a platform operated by registered fundraising portals. Investors in a certified “Louisiana Entrepreneurial Business” can receive a 35 percent Angel Investor Tax Credit from the State on up to $1 million of investments per year. Andrew Goodman is a partner in the New Orleans office of Kean Miller LLP. He has advised corporate clients, ranging from start-ups to large publicly traded companies, investment funds and entrepreneurs in transactions in technology, real estate and real estate investment trusts (REITs), life sciences, energy, manufacturing, advertising, consumer products, food products and other industries. Since 2005 Andrew has advised clients in M&A transactions totaling more than $25 billion. He can be reached at 504-620-3185 or andrew. goodman@keanmiller.com. After a lifetime of work and proper preparation, a secure retirement can be a much-desired reward. However, that security will only be as strong as your ability to stay healthy. Most people would agree that health is their most important asset, and that’s why it’s important to ensure that if you ever face an extended illness, you’ll receive the kind of care you need without facing financial instability. At Northwestern Mutual of Louisiana, specialists in long-term care insurance are available to assist in determining your long-term care needs and help design solutions tailored to your unique situation. To learn more about Northwest Mutual and seek financial security for you and your loved ones, please visit them online at nm-louisiana.com or call 504-8318146 to speak with a specialist at their Metairie office. Steven Dugal is a General Agent of NM and Northwestern Long Term Care Insurance Co., Milwaukee, WI, (long-term care insurance) and a Registered Representative and Investment Adviser Representative of Northwestern Mutual Investment Services, LLC. Though it’s not a topic most of us want to think about, planning for what happens after your death and understanding your options can reduce the stress on grieving loved ones. Making decisions now can help assure those left behind that your wishes are being honored. Consider what type of service you want and if there are any unique requests that can be accommodated. Consider purchasing cemetery property and inquire about 122

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all options available for memorialization. If cremation is your choice, will the ashes remain with someone, be stored or buried or scattered somewhere? Talk with several funeral providers to find the right one for your budget and wishes. If you choose to fund your prearrangement, you can lock in today’s prices for products and services that likely will be more expensive in the future. For more information, contact Lake Lawn Metairie Funeral Home and Cemeteries at 504-486-6331, or visit LakeLawnMetairieCem.com. Peace of mind is priceless, and so is the security that provides it. Louisiana Alarm Watch, a locally owned company, installs and monitors residential and commercial security systems throughout Southeast Louisiana. They focus on meeting your needs and your budget and provide a variety of services and alarm systems. With Louisiana Alarm Watch, monitored customers can expect the highest quality service. Their state-of-the-art monitoring center, located in Louisiana north of the hurricane evacuation zone, is UL-listed and staffed by certified operators. Feel confident knowing your system is monitored by nearby operators using the industry’s best technology for handling emergencies with speed and courtesy. Alarm systems offered by Louisiana Alarm Watch include: Burglar Alarm, Fire Detection, Carbon Monoxide, Video Security, Medical Alert, Home Automation, Home Theater and Data Networking. Additionally, they offer phone line, cellular and Internet monitoring with interactive services such as email and text notifications and remote system access. For a free consultation, call 504-780-8775. Find your security at LaAlarmWatch.com. •


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Northshore Living

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he Northshore is a growing part of the Greater New Orleans region and boasts unique and diverse communities from the foot of the Lake Pontchartrain Causeway Bridge across to that of the Interstate 10 Twin Span Bridge. Mandeville, Covington, and Slidell are just a small portion of St. Tammany Parish and New Orleans’ large northern counterpart. Each community calls for its own professionals, and the Northshore is full of them, from home design companies and real estate agents to a variety of health experts. Experience a little “Northshore Living” with the following local favorites.

Home & Design Louisiana Custom Closets represents the pinnacle of quality design, materials and service for all of your home and office organizational and storage needs. With solutions for any room of any size in any style, they can create something just for you. Virtually any space can be personalized. Because Louisiana Custom Closets is the actual manufacturer, they can provide endless solutions to your home and office storage needs. Louisiana Custom Closets is proud to be locally owned and operated since 2003, and they are not a franchise. The professional design staff will be happy to work with you on your dream closet, garage, office, laundry room, hobby room, pantry, utility room or whatever you need to make your spaces as beautiful and manageable as possible. Choose your style. Choose your finish. Take your storage space from simply neat to simply fabulous. Owner Don Wise

can be reached at 985-871-0810 or 504 885-3188. visit LouisianaCustomClosets.com. Jennifer Rice’s business success has developed parallel with a long record of community service and team building. Analyzing trends, thinking independently, and integrating the traditional modes of communication with more technologically advanced media have all contributed to her winning results. Her professional career launched at the French Quarter’s Royal Orleans Hotel, where she rose from an entry-level position to Catering Manager. Although she now lives on a Folsom horse farm, her association with French Quarter-based Dorian Bennett Sotheby’s Realty represents a return to her roots. Jennifer’s team offers a diversified portfolio of properties including waterfront, equestrian and unique luxury properties. Upon moving to Covington after her marriage to her husband Tim, Jennifer raised money for several schools and charitable


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organizations and was a founding member of the St. Tammany Hospital Foundation. Her volunteer service has not come at the expense of her real estate clientele, as her wide circle of friends in the legal, medical and business communities has provided expertise in every aspect of property acquisition and sale. Superimposing her expertise on property evaluation with high standards of ethical conduct and client service has produced the expected result. Visit JenniferRice.net.

Healthy Living According to Dr. Randall S. Juleff of La Bella Vita Laser and Vein Center, varicose veins are much more than an aesthetics issue – they are signs of venous disease, which can jeopardize one’s health. Venous insufficiency is a chronic and often hereditary condition that affects 80 million Americans. When left untreated, it can cause leg swelling, chronic pain and cramps, restless leg syndrome, varicose veins, and even skin damage. At La Bella Vita Laser and Vein Center in Covington, Dr. Juleff works to resolve venous insufficiency problems with a non-invasive laser therapy called Endovenous Laser Ablation. Performed in a comfortable office setting under oral or IV sedation, the procedure requires no down time and, due to its medical nature, is covered by numerous insurance plans. Dr. Juleff is triple-board-certified in Phlebology, General Surgery, and Cardiovascular and Thoracic Surgery with nearly twenty years of experience in venous disorders. For a consultation or more information, call 985-892-2950 or visit LaBellaVitaVein.com. When James A. Moreau, Jr. D.D.S. designed MoreSMILES Dental Spa in 1999, he wanted to create an inviting environment to help patients relax so they can get the dentistry they need. This can be seen in the many complimentary amenities offered at MoreSMILES to make dental visits a pleasant experience, including paraffin hand dip, blankets, scented neck rolls, and TVs on the ceilings in treatment rooms. Patients sometimes even arrive early for their appointments so they can enjoy a cup of coffee or hot tea while relaxing to the soothing sounds of trickling fountains in the reception room. MoreSMILES Dental offers a wide range of general dentistry and prosthodontic specialty services. Dr. Moreau has expertise in treatment of TMJ disorders and sleep apnea/ snoring. Dr. Israel Finger specializes in implants and dentures. And same-day dentistry with Dr. Shannon Doyle is a real benefit for busy patients using CAD-CAM technology for porcelain restorations (crowns) fabricated at their inoffice milling lab. To schedule an appointment call 985-809-7645. Dr. Kevin Darr of Covington Orthopedic and Sports Medicine Institute is a board certified and fellowship trained orthopedic surgeon with a commitment to offering comprehensive, progressive orthopedic care, including today’s most innovative and progressive practices to achieve optimal function and performance. “In addition to traditional orthopedic treatments and surgery, I alsoofferminimallyinvasivealternativesutilizingstate-of-the-art technology and integrative orthobiologic therapies and treatments,” says Dr. Darr. He is currently conducting an IRB-approved 126

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research study using advanced cell therapy to relieve osteoarthritis in various joints and is seeing improved results in followups with participants. Additionally, Dr. Darr is now using cell therapy for soft-tissue pathology including tendon and ligament disorders such as rotator cuff, knee ligament tears and avascular necrosis of the bone to be used as an augment to or in lieu of surgery. For more information on these studies and on Covington Orthopedics’ physicians and services, visit CovingtonOrtho. com or call 985-273-5888. Trainer To Go, a mobile personal training business in the Greater New Orleans area, is creating new and exciting ways to work out through one-on-one personal training and group fitness classes. Its owners, Ron and Jessie Morel, have a combined 30 years of experience in the fitness industry and are thrilled to be able to offer a more convenient way for their clients to exercise. What better way than to allow Trainer To Go to bring the gym to you at home or work, at your convenience? For those who prefer group classes, Trainer To Go recently opened an intimate boutique training studio in Old Metairie where Ron, Jessie, and their team of fantastic trainers host fun, innovative, and most importantly, ultra effective small group classes like Cardio Kickboxing, Zumba and Suspension Pilates. Whether you're just beginning your fitness journey or you're an exercise pro, Trainer To Go has something for you. Find out more by visiting TrainerToGoNOLA.com or calling 504-994-3822. •

























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TRY THIS

Sun & Sand Festival Gains Ground SunAndSandFestival.com Just two years after its inaugural event, Sun & Sand, The Mississippi Film & Music Festival (Oct. 16-26) is establishing itself as a key event for new and established players in the movie business. This year, more than 200 films were submitted. Selected films will be screened in categories including Short, Documentary and Feature, alongside panel discussions. The event will also showcase the state’s financial incentives and range of potential locations available to filmmakers.

Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter Undergoes Million Dollar Renovation 124 Royal St., 529-7211, Wyndham.com/New-Orleans-Hotel The Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter Hotel’s multi-million dollar renovation is complete as of Oct. 1, 2014. Commenting, new General Manager Craig Mouney said: “The hotel has been updated inside and out. From painting the entire exterior of the hotel to plush new bedding and Wolfgang Puck coffees in the rooms, it’s a redo of legendary proportions our guests demanded and deserved.” – Mirella Cameran

Stepping Into History A visit to The National World War II Museum by Kelly Massicot

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have read books, watched movies and heard personal accounts, but nothing brought me as close to events of World War II quite like the exhibits housed at The National World War II Museum. I recently had the pleasure of spending the afternoon immersed in the history that the museum brings to its 4 million, and counting, guests. The museum is designed to bring its visitors on a journey. One after the other, each exhibit continues the story of the war that changed the world. When I first walked into the Louisiana Memorial Pavilion, the smiling face of a war veteran greeted me as I looked up through the atrium’s three stories. Planes hang above, and I felt surrounded by army vehicles, an array of weapons and a famous Higgins boat. New to the museum, the Train Car Experience is the first interactive activity that greets visitors on the main floor of the lobby. This exhibit gives its passengers a recreation of what it felt like to send someone off to war. Next, I made my way up the stairs to the Home Front Gallery, the first of the five galleries in the building. Three floors took me through the entirety of the war up until the Atomic Age in the Pacific D-Days Gallery. Once finished, I made my way to the

Craig Mulcahy photo

newest addition, The Boeing Center. I took advantage of the catwalks hanging above the main floor to catch the different angles of each plane on display. The Boeing Center’s main attraction is the What Would You Do? interactive game, which asked questions to see how I would react to different issues of war time, and a more kid-friendly interactive simulation of the Final Mission of the war. My final stop was Beyond All Boundaries, the 4-D movie experience. It is by far my favorite part of the museum. It puts you up close to the war, and simulates the feelings of gunfire, bombs and the heartache that came with the job of being a soldier. It is a must-see, along with the rotating exhibits and artifacts throughout the museum.

Coming soon to the museum: Campaigns of Courage, featuring The Road to Berlin, The Road to Tokyo and a “dog tag” interactive experience, as well as the Liberation Pavilion: an exhibit that will highlight the atrocities of the Holocaust along with the story of Anne Frank and personal accounts of the liberation. Numerous levels of ticket prices are available; for those, hours of operation and information on exhibits and show times, visit: NationalWW2Museum.org. n myneworleans.com / OCTOBER 2014

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Helga of Prague By errol laborde

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ne day Helga was leading a tour group near the Czech Republic’s parliament building in downtown Prague. Traffic had stopped because of a small fire in one of the adjacent buildings. Approaching a fireman Helga asked, “Was our President in the fire?” The fireman smiled faintly and replied, “You’re going to have to pray a lot harder for that to happen.” Simple as that story is, it’s loaded with significance. Helga is in her mid-50s, which means that for much of her life she had lived behind the Iron Curtain where mere citizens never ridiculed government officials in public, particularly to men in uniform. The reason she dislikes President Miloš Zeman, a converted former Communist who’s the country’s first popularly elected Chief Executive (his immediate predecessors were selected by parliament), is not because of doctrine or persecution but because he smokes – incessantly. He smokes when appearing in public. He smokes when addressing parliament.

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“He is disgusting,” Helga says. To Helga, the lungs are more important than Lenin. As we toured I saw many old buildings where kings, tyrants and composers visited. History is displayed in many layers. Nevertheless, despite the many grand art works I most enjoyed watching the locals discover themselves. At one point Helga wanted to show us a garden in a parliament courtyard. She asked a policeman who politely explained that our group could not enter because parliament was in session. Nevertheless Helga’s was thrilled: “A few years ago I could have never asked a policeman a question,” she said, “and if I did, he would not have answered.” In case there is any doubt who won between capitalism and communism, one of the downtown businesses is a capitalist showcase: The Museum of Communism. For the price of admission, visitors can see displays about the bad old days, including the disregard for environment – the reds never thought green. The museum is located in a former palace that now contains a casino, and across the alley from the museum’s entrance is a McDonald’s. Most of the world knows Good King Wenceslas from the carol. In Prague the king’s towering statue is venerated as the site of the 1989 protests that were the beginning of the end of communism. Václav Havel, the first post-communist president, who was a philosopher and a poet as well as a revolutionary, is very much of a beloved figure in the Czech Republic; but here, too, Helga, the liberated social commentator that she is, was critical: “Perhaps he did not fully understand government.” European history is so filled with wars and upheavals that one is hesitant to feel too optimistic, but it’s noteworthy that people move freely between countries as the Iron Curtain has been ripped to shreds. At the Czech/German border, a tour guide pointed to dreary looking buildings off to the side. Once they headquartered border control operations; now they’re empty, a victim to the conquest of liberty. Today Helga still leads her tours and is no doubt giving her opinions. I should point out that Helga is not her real name, but that’s my choice. Peace has broken out, but there is always someone who might not have gotten the message. n

ARTHUR NEAD ILLUSTRATION




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