Reinventing a Village
The Greatest Game on Earth Traversing Section 8
The Festivals of Fall
Plus: Ouachita Trail Chain Magnolia Sons Beastman Caravan
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Where Belonging Feels
Natural
We are making a place for
Come experience what’s new in Hot Springs Village. Whether it’s music under the stars at Grove Park or docking your boat at the new Waypoint at DeSoto Marina, we are making a place for those who want to experience everything that the beautiful Ouachitas have to offer. Download the Hot Springs Village Visitor’s App on iTunes or Google Play and discover your new place to call home! Hot Springs Village is evolving, visualize the change with us:
HSVPlacemaking.com
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CONTENTS
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What’s Inside
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Reinventing a Village
Photographer’s Favorite
Putting a Youthful Spin on a Classic Model & Creating a Community that Stands the Test of Time
Section 8 of the Ouachita Trail from our Photographer’s Perspective
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The Festivals of Fall
Harvest Time in the High Country is about More than Just the Squash
The Greatest Game on Earth The Roots of America’s Past Time are Surfacing in the Ouachitas
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ART
Creative Director Marisa Rodgers
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COPY
Contributing Writers Angie Ezekiel Kristal Mackey J. L. James Rex Nelson Ryan Klare Josh Williams Copy Editors Cathy Hicks
PHOTO
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Chief Photographer Jeremy Rodgers Contributing Photographers Chris Sale Amanda Shelley Ledbetter
Departments
SALES
New to the Ouachitas
Native
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The Waypoint
Hot Springs Village’s Newest Destination
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Ouachita Trail Chain Connecting Riders of the Ouachitas in a New Way
Geocaching Hunt Treasure Hunting of the Modern Day
Snakes of Arkansas
These Misunderstodd Creatures Just Need a Little Understanding
Glance Back
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Albert Pike Treasure
The Old Haunts & Happenings of America’s First Resort Town
Fare
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Not Just an Address Cal-Tex Cuisine Meets Down Home Cordiality
Music & Arts
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Josh Williams
Sweet & Lowdown
Magnolia Sons, the Face of the Motown Renaissance
Beastman Caravan
Making Art that is Literally Skin Deep
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In Each Issue
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Josh Carringer Josh Williams Ouachita High Country is a production of Destination Design Initiative, pending 501c3 in partnership with Hot Springs Village. For advertising opportunities: ohcads@rendercreativegroup.com or call 501-620-4520 For editorial queries: Please write to: Render Creative Group attn: Ouachita High Country 801 Central Avenue, Suite 30 Hot Springs, AR 71901 or email info@rendercreativegroup.com To subscribe: Visit ouachitahighcountry.com or see page 3 for mail-in form and full details.
Letter from the Editors
Autumn Winds & Changing Leaves
Calendar of Events
What’s Happening This Fall
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In Your Words
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Falling for Autumn by Sensear Dialect aka Dascribe
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LETTER FROM THE EDITORS
Autumn Winds & Changing Leaves
With the changing of hues, a change in attitude follows. After arduous Arkansas summers, the crisp autumn air brings a refreshment like no other: The smell of apples and cinnamon wafts through the atmosphere; smoke from burning leaves fills our nostrils; pumpkins and cloves invade our coffees and teas. Autumn also brings various opportunities that aren’t available during other times of the year. For one, it’s a great time to get out your bike or your hiking boots and hit the trails running—or walking or biking—it doesn’t matter, just get outside. The weather is perfect. One communitiy in the Ouachita region is doing everything they can to get people to enjoy the natural surroundings by implementing some major changes, and they want everyone to get involved. David Twiggs, Chief Operating Officer of Hot Springs Village, is taking monumental steps toward change and inviting everyone to rediscover the beautiful assets they possess inside, but also everything that the Ouachitas offer. With his “placemaking” initiative, anyone and everyone who wants to be active, enjoy the outdoors and wishes to be surrounded by a community of like-interest people, may just fall in love with these winds of change, and will want to be a part of its future. The Hot Springs Documentary Film Festival is screening a film, by an Arkansan, about the storied history of baseball Spring Training in Hot Springs, and the close to fifty percent of current hall-of-famers who have ties to the Ouachita region. We also explore the legend of Albert Pike, a Mason and Confederate general who supposedly hid a massive amount of gold in Montgomery County. In essence, our Fall issue celebrates our past & provides a bright look into the future. We hope you enjoy our magazine as much as you enjoy the weather right now. Thanks for reading.
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NEW TO THE OUACHITAS
The Waypoint
Waypoint, down to the coordinates on the map, is perfectly set, like the jewel on the crown of Arkansas – Hot Springs Village. Recently coming to fruition, Waypoint is the brainchild and the newest addition to the community wide renovation project by the Placemaking Team, who is tasked with creating a fresh new look and feel for the rapidly evolving destination/resort area inside the largest gated community in America. Hot Springs Village’s Chief Operations Officer David Twiggs said, “We have a very active younger population that’s growing every day. We opened Waypoint to expand opportunities for people to enjoy the lakes and try new things.” Many people have yet to experience this beauty nestled in the foothills of the Ouachitas, but that is about to change. Located between Highway 7 and Highway 5, west of Hot Springs and one mile into
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Hot Springs Village’s New Destination is Making a Point of Its Own by Josh Williams photography by Jeremy Rodgers
the Hot Springs Village gates, Waypoint is a once tattered old building that brims with new life and vigor. It features a corner coffee shop, a taco café, and a beer and wine bar. It also offers rentals of kayaks, paddle boards, bicycles and other tools needed to utilize a fun day immersed in the natural surroundings. This “new” hangout has a very distinct feel: Imagine yourself caught in a vortex somewhere between a SoHo apartment in 1975 and a cabin in a wooded area with a multi-level deck and a beautiful lake in the front yard. Complete with retro chairs, repurposed wood décor and a variety of local faces, Waypoint offers the comfort that only a friendly, active, speakeasy-type hangout can provide. Essentially, doers are who one will find at the new Waypoint; people who enjoy hanging loose on the trails
and waterways that meander through every nook and cranny of this secluded mecca, which is quickly losing its status as a “well kept secret.” The rippling water, shaded trails and scenic views, along with a place to house your boat or rent kayaks and paddle boards, is indicative of this little slice of utopia that is soon to become one of the more popular destinations around the state. The mission of the Placemaking initiative is to allow small, home-grown start-ups to flourish, and “make a place” for active people who may not have the opportunity to do what they love elsewhere. For one, it helps the local economy, and two, it promotes creativity and gives confidence to local artisans to invest in their dreams. Job creation and a revived economy is what the American society needs right now:
Really Good Tacos. . Enter Red Light Roastery and Little Penguin Tacos. Red Light Roastery, owned by Adam Moore, is a “small batch” coffee company and the provider of the organic brew served at the new Waypoint. A popular new startup company, their grassroots marketing and crafty merchandising of top quality coffee blends, along with their handcrafted pottery coffee cups, are a hit with locals in the Hot Springs area already. Adam is more than excited about having the opportunity to be at the forefront of the evolution of Hot Springs Village. “It’s been great working with everyone at Waypoint,” Adam said. “They are the first coffee shop to serve our beans, and they are all about supporting local (business). Our three ideals as a company are community, sustainability and wellness. Waypoint is a natural fit for us.” You can take a closer look at www. redlightroastery.com The fresh, organic food at Waypoint, provided by Little Penguin Tacos, is just as delectable as the array of fresh beverages. Owner Jonathan Gonzalez follows the standard that the Placemaking team is trying to promote. He uses fresh, organic ingredients free from additives
like steroids and GMO’s. He uses a local entity, JV Farms in Bismarck, for most of his meats and he also makes use of his personal garden at home to supply his restaurant with the freshest of vegetables. “It’s awesome to be a part of the renewed outdoor community that’s present in The Village,” Jonathan said. “Basecamp is doing some incredible things and I am really proud to be a part of it, and I can’t wait to see what the future holds for us.” Check out Little Penguin Tacos on Facebook for more. While the food and drinks at Waypoint are of the utmost quality, the real attraction is crafting and building your very own outdoor adventure, the way you choose. People’s outdoor interests are as varied as their personalities: mountain biking, hiking, kayaking and paddle boarding, fishing, golfing; the destination is not as important as the journey, and Waypoint is one of the first steps in the journey that Hot Springs Village is taking into the future. It is going to be a long trek, but a fruitful one. With the enthusiasm of the vendors and the patronage of local fun-seekers, the end of the trip will be completely satisfying. So, the next time you take a voyage to central Arkansas, make it a point to stop by Waypoint.
120 Marina Road HSV, Ark.
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Ouachita Trail Chain
One of the great things about the Ouachita region is the community of Hot Springs Village (HSV) and its over-abundance of natural attractions. Whether its barbecuing, fishing, golfing, kayaking, or one of the numerous other activities available, one will always have something to do, especially if that something is out of doors. But one activity, in particular, is moving to the front of the list—“trailing”— or traversing the trails. With this in mind, HSV COO David Twiggs is implementing an idea of taking the existing trails in HSV and building a network using other trails throughout the western region of the state. Not only will hiking and biking trails be used, but streaming waterways designed for kayaking will be included too. This network of trails will be known as the Ouachita Trail Chain (OTC). HSV’s contributions to the OTC are ready and willing for the fluid swishing of oars, the
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soothing hum of bike tires and the sweet thuds of active feet. There are over 30 miles of revived and revamped natural trails contained inside the perimeter of HSV, and the renovations are continuing on a daily basis. With more than a dozen on hand, the variety with which one can go “trailing” is significant. The average length of most trails is less than two miles, so one needn’t worry about not being able to conquer one. With the beauty that surrounds these passageways, two miles goes by in the blink of an eye anyway. However, if looking for something that will last a while, the Hernando Trail provides a 17.2 mile challenge with relatively smooth terrain for multi-purpose usage. HSV implores though, take care of the trails whilst enjoying them. Make sure to keep bike speeds under 15 mph on
Connecting with Nature, Literally by Josh Williams photography by Amanda Shelley Ledbetter & Jeremy Rodgers
multi-purpose trails and keep dogs on leashes. Also, clean up after them. No one likes navigating through a mine field of doggie dung. This renaissance of the OTC trail network has been made possible by many outdoor lovers and organizations throughout the country, and there are exciting plans to enhance HSV’s trail repitoire. Planning has begun with the International Mountain Bicycling Association (IMBA) to escalate the OTC utilizizing the natural untapped assets within. IMBA is a non-profit, 501©3 educational association whose mission is to create, enhance and preserve trail opportunities for mountain bikers worldwide. They’ve been bringing out the best in mountain biking and its participants since 1988. IMBA’s worldwide network has more than 100,000 supporters, 35,000 members and 180 chapters in 32 different
Lunch
countries. Every state in the US has at least one IMBA chapter as well. Bruce Alt, president of the Central Arkansas Trail Alliance (Little Rock’s IMBA chapter), has been a key factor in the development of several trails throughout the state. He has even helped bring the “epic trail” status to a few sites in Arkansas. To obtain “epic trail” status, a trail must be nominated, receive support from the community and receive IMBA’s blessing after a test run. Arkansas has five different “epic trails” that span over 100 miles, with three of those trails being nearby the HSV area; the Ouachita Trail, the Lake Ouachita Vista Trail and Womble Trail. Local nature enthusiast and trail lover Robert Cavanaugh has been at the forefront of Ouachita trail development almost since the beginning. “I love doing what I do,” Robert said, “mainly because the trails that will be included in the OTC have basically been built by volunteers. Maybe what I’m most proud of is the Lake Ouachita Vista Trail. It runs fortyfive miles from Shangri-La Rd. all the way to Blakely Dam. It took volunteers eight years to build. That’s pretty impressive.”
Evolution is a slow process. “Back in the ‘90’s,” Robert said, “the United States Forest Service built rest stations along the east end of the Vista Trail, but the west end didn’t get the attention it needed. A fantastic group—Friends of the Ouachita Trail—have been huge supporters of the expansion, and have gotten heavily involved. They’ve written several proposals, obtained grants from the Highway Department and other private donors to get the rest of the stations built on the west side of the trail, and its happening quickly. I’m so proud.” Today, the trails and waterways of the developing OTC are in the best condition they have ever been. But it’s not just the trail system that has received an overhaul. Everything in HSV is transforming for the better. The overall revitalization effort and placemaking initiative implemented by HSV COO David Twiggs is a much needed shot in the arm for the economy of the community. The OTC is just a good place to start—it’s easy enough for anyone 8 to 80 to enjoy. Its one of the many outdoor activity services that the HSV community offers to the great people of this great region, and its time to let the trails keep you grounded.
Mon-Fri 11am - 2pm
Dinner
Mon-Thurs 5pm-9pm Fri-Sat 5pm - 10pm
1803 Airport Road Hot Springs, Arkansas (501) 767-0200 Ou a c hit a H ighCo u nt ry.com
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Geocaching Hunt
Geocaching is a real-world, outdoor treasure hunting game using only Global Positioning System(GPS)-enabled devices. Participants navigate to a specific set of GPS coordinates anywhere on the globe and then attempt to find the “geocache” hidden at that location. This game became a reality on May 2, 2000, at approximately midnight eastern savings time, when the great blue switch controlling selective availability was pressed, and GPS technology became more accessible to civil and commercial users worldwide. Twenty-four satellites around the globe processed their new orders with their robot brains and instantly the accuracy of GPS technology improved exponentially. Tens of thousands of GPS receivers around the world obtained an instant upgrade. This was a huge moment for GPS, and hideand-seek enthusiasts alike. They now had new, easier ways to utilize this technology.
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The reality of GPS technology is actually pretty creepy: A person being able to type in some coordinates or a physical address and then immediately look inside someone’s garage or living room is unnerving, to say the least. But, that is a different story entirely. Fear not fellow Americans, GPS technology can be used for good, or at least for good clean fun anyway, hence the adventurous phenomenon that is Geocaching. Geocaching (a term coined through the combination of “earth” and “hiding place”) is one of the fastest-growing hobbies with outdoor enthusiasts around the globe. It combines technology with nature to produce an exciting new form of entertainment for those who like to be adventurous in their leisure time. Each hunt and the terrain around it vary in difficulty: Most caches will be located on a mountain,
It’s Like a Pirate Treasure on Land, Without the Scurvy by Josh Williams photography by Jeremy Rodgers
in a cave, in the middle of a forest or along waterways or bike trails. Some caches contain only logbooks nestled inside small tins or film canisters, while other vessels, such as ammunition boxes, hold personal treasures left behind by previous visitors. Standard geocaching protocol is for one to leave something if one takes something. Remember, nobody likes a cheapskate. Think of it as an adventurer’s time capsule; kind of like carving one’s name into mother earth’s veritable picnic table, saying “(blank) wuz here,” only classier. The Ouachita region is one of the newest additions to succumb to the geocaching trend. This autumn, if one happens to be in the Ouachita high country, take out that GPS device and be on the lookout for some freshly placed geocaches with who knows what inside.
Fall in the Woodlands 9 a.m. - 6 p.m. daily
It’s the most colorful time of year at Garvan, when Japanese maples are in full color and the hardwood forest glows in autumn’s light. Thousands of vibrant annuals and perennials, including our annual mum fest will be the show-stoppers in our fall garden. $15 adults | $5 ages 6-12 | Free ages 0-5 550 Arkridge Road | Hot Springs www.garvangardens.org | 800-366-4664
@ garvangardens
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FARE
Not Just an Address
Hot Springs is, it seems, in a period of re-invigoration of the local community. Both locals and tourists are increasingly supporting shops, boutiques, markets, and restaurants owned by their fellow Hot Springs residents. Enter the small eatery. Dining out locally offers no shortage of cozy cafés, bistros, and diners. Downtown and Central Avenue alone boast several, some adding coffee shop or bakery to their title. Several are located in area hotels or resorts and many are holding their own surrounded by box stores in shopping centers. So what sets one apart from another? For Cafe 1217, named for its address on Malvern Avenue, the answer is clear – simple food and fresh ingredients with a unique twist. Cafe 1217 sits, unpretentiously, in a small shopping center on Malvern Avenue
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sandwiched between Peter’s Paint and a small parking area that it shares with its sister restaurant, Taco Mama. Their recent renovation, the first since they opened, seems to have increased business and, luckily, they only had to close one day during renovation to lay new floors. The cafe is now roomier with one wall having been removed and a door way expanded to the adjoining dining area. Dark teal walls and vintage looking industrial lighting are juxtaposed against the natural light pouring in from the front windows. A handwritten menu, presented on a large chalkboard behind the counter, displays the month’s menu. Some renovations are still remainingthe bathrooms still need some attention and sliding doors will be installed to separate the additional dining room for events as needed, but the layout is the same. The quaint “order here” sign
Cal-Tex Cuisine Meets Down Home Cordiality by Kristal Mackey photography by Chris Sale
still hangs above the a la carte counter, which displays the day’s specials and vegetables. The dessert counter still beckons just as you walk in and is, as always, filled with tasty homemade desserts like tiramisu pie, cobbler, and a variety of tarts and cakes. The real jewel of the cafe, though, is its menu. I’ve been a fan of Cafe 1217 since 1998, about a year after they opened. Having never been a fan of tomato soup, a co-worker insisted that I try the tomato bisque at this amazing new restaurant. I ordered a small cup and paired it with the Southwestern Cobb Salad. To say I was an instant fan is an understatement. Although I have intentions of trying something new when I order lunch from there, invariably I end up returning to the meal that first enamored me with Cafe 1217. The creaminess of the bisque
perfectly mellows the acidity of the tomatoes, allowing a hearty brightness that elevates the soup light years beyond just a basic tomato concoction. The salad, available in half sizes if paired with a cup of soup, is overflowing with flavor. Fresh greens are topped with smooth avocado, pico, cilantro, onion, sliced chicken, and their house dressing. Although the menu changes monthly, these two menu items are among the small base of customer favorites that remain available, along with fish tacos (with a delicious beer batter), tamales, chicken pot pie (served in soup bowl sized mugs), meatloaf, and a handful of other classics. In July, the BLT&A (bacon, lettuce, tomato, and avocado) was such a popular menu item that it, too, will soon be a staple. The obvious ingredients of the sandwich are accompanied by a feta herb spread that is typical of the inventiveness that makes Cafe 1217 a stand-out place. Julia Child is quoted as saying “People who love to eat are always the best people.” This must be why Cafe 1217’s owner, Diana Bratton, always seems to have a smile on her face. Her happiness gives away her absolute love for what she does and she is eager to share her love of food with others. Bratton’s culinary education began in childhood as the eighth out of nine children born in
south Texas to parents who lived through America’s Great Depression. Although growing up in a large family had meager moments, mealtime was important family time and Bratton remembers spending quality time cooking with her mother and siblings. When Bratton enrolled in college, she originally tried her hand at International Business, but couldn’t deny that she preferred the arts. Eventually, she received her culinary degree in Dallas, Texas, graduating at the top of her class and achieving Student of the Year. She has continued her education at the Culinary Institute of America in California. Her deep Texas roots and a love of California’s cuisine have inspired Cafe 1217’s fresh eclectic menu. Growing up in the kitchen also inspired Bratton to focus on making quality food inhouse and from scratch while using fresh ingredients. The produce at Cafe 1217 is supplied by Arkansas Natural Produce, located in Malvern. This produce comprises the vital ingredients for one of the menu items of which Bratton is most proud-the Purslane Salad, which contains succulent lettuce topped with tomato, avocado, feta, jalapeno, and extra virgin olive oil and lemon juice. Hot Springs bakery Ambrosia supplies the cafe with bread and they press their own tortillas on site.
Bratton also is quick to sing the praises of her sous chef, Yvonne, who is in charge of the a la carte counter and keeps it stocked with some of their classic dishes as well as side dishes like vegetables with cilantro pecan pesto and broccoli apple salad. The desserts are all made by Richard, who keeps the dessert counter and cookie bar full of all manner of sweet treats, like peanut butter cookies, macaroons, and berry almond puff pastry. Moving forward, Bratton has plans to begin serving brunch at Cafe 1217. She hints to me that she hopes to start in September, then realizes that she’s saying this in mid-August. She smiles and gives a slight wink before quipping “Wow. Better get moving!” before she disappears back inside her kitchen. Boasting a unique menu and local ingredients, Cafe 1217 continues to delight long-time customers and draws in new ones daily. And greeting these patrons as they walk in the door is a chalkboard wall, just around the corner from the cookie bar, that has curly cursive writing on it reminding everyone “Don’t forget to be awesome!” After a laid back meal at Cafe 1217, it’s hard to be anything else. Ou a c hit a H ighCo u nt ry.com
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MUSIC
Sweet & Lowdown
Take the soulful Motown sound, add a big band horn section topped with a little ska salsa, and then garnish with wedding suits, bowties and go-go dresses; yields one wicked soul, rock and blues 10-piece big band experience. They call it Magnolia Sons. On Saturday Oct. 3 on the Ouachita High Country Main Stage at Hill Wheatley Plaza in Hot Springs, Magnolia Sons will funk up the Hot Water Hills Music and Arts Festival. Drummer and bandleader J. Austin Aguirre established the Nashville-based crew in 2011. With as many band members as players on a basketball court, one would assume that getting everyone on the same page would be difficult, but the members pride themselves on their ability to get all the pieces to come together nearly seamlessly – and when they fall short of seamless, they’re content to make everyone have a great time.
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“It’s challenging to have a band, period,” Aguirre said. “We all have one major goal in mind: To make music that’s new, fresh and fun.” Guitarist and vocalist Dustin Sellers added, “What makes our music most fun is that we’re all adding to a sum.” “So, it’s challenging,” vocalist Keshia Bailey said. “But it’s definitely more rewarding than challenging.” Bailey is the newest member of Magnolia Sons, having been with the band less than two years. She had moved to Nashville to attend law school when Aguirre asked her to audition for the band. They all quickly became family. “I don’t know if I’d be doing what I’m doing without them,” Bailey said. “Now I have eight big brothers and a sister. I
Magnolia Sons, the face of the Motown Renaissance by J. L. James photography courtesy of Magnolia Sons
can honestly say it’ll be one of the joys of my life.” Benjamin A. Harper, Alexis Saski, Jared Cooper, Travis Eidson, Ryan Latham, Eli Hall, and Anthony Jorissen, complete the band’s roster. In 2013, Magnolia Sons released its first studio produced music video for crowd favorite single “Baby That’s You.” A fastpaced, foot-tapping Motown pop track, “Baby That’s You” embodies the groovy fun spirit at the heart of the Magnolia Sons project. Aguirre had a vision of an all-original soul renaissance when he founded the group, and it’s safe to say that vision has come to fruition. “Run Baby Run” is the band’s second studio music video production, released earlier this summer. More than 1,000 viewed it in
its first two weeks on YouTube. The song is an original composition that could serve as a tribute to 60s psychedelic pop. The video was a project long in the making. “The idea we came up with was specific,” Aguirre said. “We had so many production crews back out because the idea was overwhelming.” Finally, Gear Seven Creative, also based in Nashville, was able to share Magnolia Sons’ vision. The video is an homage to Quentin Tarantino’s “Foxy Brown” and 1970s black exploitation flicks. Foxxy Fox, played by vocalist Alexis Saski and Dynamite Jackson, played by Bailey, join forces to take out the “jive turkey” men, played by the rest of the band, who’ve developed a plan to “set women’s lib back 20 years.” Even in studio productions, Magnolia Sons is dedicated to keeping it light and fun. But the way they shine is as a live act. Nashville Lifestyles named them one of the “25 to Watch in 2015,” and they’ve toured around the country, making homes at venues like The Drinkery in Cincinnati. The Hot Water Hills Festival will be their first trip to Hot Springs, but they have played in Little Rock. As a fresh neo-soul band, Magnolia Sons’ biggest influences are classic Motown. They’ve shared the stage with several big names in the Nashville scene, but their most memorable moment has been opening for Cee-Lo Green and Salt N Pepa. When they take the stage on Oct. 3 at Hot Water Hills, it will be more than a concert; it’ll be an experience. Austin calls it “60s retro-soul, retro-pop,” A new take on an American classic. And it’ll be a crowd participation kind of experience.
MUSICAL PERFORMANCES ON THE OUACHITA HIGH COUNTRY/BASECAMP STAGE BY:
SAD DADDY
DANIEL ROMANO
MAGNOLIA SONS
GHOST BONES
ADAM FAUCET & THE TALL GRASS GOOD GRAEFF BIG PIPH & TOMORROW MAYBE SPA CITY YOUNGBLOODS ASMSA FOLK MUSIC ENSEMBLE CHRISTIAN LEE HUTSON
“It’s very fun,” Sellers said. “We encourage people to get up and dance and dress up. We like a dressed up crowd.” So don your snazziest retro three-piece and short little retro mini-dresses and get up to Hill Wheatley Plaza this fall.
Support for Low Key Arts is provided, in part, by the Arkansas Arts Council, an agency of the Department of Heritage and the National Endowment for the Arts.
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ARTS
Beastman Caravan
Leather working is one of man’s oldest crafts. As soon as mankind started hunting, they started tanning the hides of their kills to keep warm, to provide shelter, and to fashion tools and decorations. Early societies learned to soften the leather and make it useful. As their techniques in working the surface improved, so did the designs and uses of leather. However, most leather work today is done in factories. Machines cut, press designs, and stitch items for mass consumption. There is little art or handcrafting involved, with the exception of a few artists that still choose leather as their medium, making individual items into functional art. Filip Johnson is one of those artists. Growing up in Texas, he was a boy scout when he was first introduced to leather working. Eventually, he left the boy scouts, but he was still drawn to tanned animal
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skin. In high school he started teaching himself how to manipulate it, developed his skills as a hobby and eventually sold his creations to friends, and at Renaissance festivals, but that’s as far as it went. He attended law school and worked as a corporate attorney for 6 years, but he knew in his heart practicing law wasn’t what he wanted to do. He felt that he needed to do something else with his life, as many people do. He started to think that maybe his hobby was worth exploring, so he gave up his license to practice law and reunited himself with his true love of leather working. As of today, he has been a serious leather artist for three years, and a professional for the last two of them. He was living in Denton, Texas when he made the decision to be a serious artist. He set up merchandise booths at shows,
Making Art That is Literally Skin Deep by Angie Ezekiel photography by Jeremy Rodgers
festivals, and conventions all over Texas. Filip is a tall, broad-shouldered man, which has earned him the moniker Beastman. The bicep of his left arm is covered in a tattoo influenced by art from Conan the Barbarian. Looking around his home and workspace, one can see the fantasy artwork of Frank Franzetta and books about Norse mythology and Celtic art. His coffee table and work station have stacks of drawings, intricate knots and animals. His leather pieces strongly echo these surroundings. He says, “I’ve been called Beastman for a long time. I was packing all of my stuff and hitting the road full time when I started, so (I added) Caravan. And it rhymes.” All of that exposure helped him build a clientele. He now has an Etsy store called Beastman Caravan, where he sells the majority of his inventory. This need to work with leather is not just about bringing his drawings to life. He is
an active individual who understands the value of a good, strong piece of rawhide. He makes a few decorative items, but his passion is making items that people will use while doing what they love. A glance into his storage cabinet proves this. His finely tooled designs adorn canteen carriers, knife sheaths, bracers, axe scabbards, and even toothpick holders. Each item is clean and well designed. Each one is a functional piece of art. Filip’s workshop is devoid of a sewing machine, or any other piece of powered machinery for that matter, besides his computer. Each item is measured and carefully hand cut. Every detail is tapped or carved into the surface with a variety of picks and hammers. Each hole is expertly punched and the seams are hand stitched with precision and care. His work is not about short cuts or quick fixes; he is making products that will be rugged and useful for a lifetime. The details in each piece don’t just involve the hand-tooled designs that Filip imagines and creates, there is more to it than that. Over the years he has formed a network of like-minded artists and craftspeople. His inventory includes hand-made knives and hand-forged buckles, rabbit and deer
pelts, and other items made by people that he has met along the way. Each item tells a story about his life throughout the years. And it is because of the connection he has formed with other artists that his work stands out. One can’t help but become enthralled with the detail of each piece he creates. The nature of the business started to weigh on Filip; the hustle and pace of the big city, the traffic, setting up and tearing down booths at shows, renting houses that were not big enough to have space to work. He started thinking of moving somewhere else and handling his business entirely online. His grandmother lived in Hot Springs and he used to spend his summers here, so he made a trip back to gauge his surroundings. “There is so much to do here and the cost of living is so much lower. I was able to buy a house and fix it up.” Filip and his girlfriend, Vanessa, have been residents of Hot Springs since April, calling historic Park Avenue home. They love being able to hike every day, finding new trails and places to explore. “This town is small enough to walk most of the places that you need to go and everyone is so friendly. I love running into the people that I have met while I am out doing my daily stuff.”
He keeps in contact with his customers and gains new ones through his Etsy, Pinterest, and Facebook accounts on a regular basis. His accounts show him using his leather goods in his everyday life, as well as detailing his creative process. This handson approach gives his work an authenticity that product pictures and descriptions could never do alone. Filip might post a picture of a sketch he was working on while enjoying his coffee at Kollective Coffee+Tea and get a message later that afternoon, asking to have it used on a custom piece. People have even asked if they could use his designs in tattoos. The Beastman Caravan shop is full of wallets, belts, bracelets, flasks, satchels, pouches, and books, but he does not limit himself to those items. He loves producing custom items and is glad to take on big projects. You can find some of his items at Churchill’s Cigars and Fine Gifts, in downtown Hot Springs. You can also locate his offerings at State and Pride Provision Company across from The Buckstaff Bathhouse. Sometimes he even sets up at the Downtown Farmer’s Market. He may pop up in other places around town before Christmas, but you can always find him on Facebook. Or just look for the big guy with the bandana over his hair and the big smile, he’s not hard to find. Ou a c hit a H ighCo u nt ry.com
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FALL EVENT CALENDAR
September
<
24-27
Maxwell Blade’s Festival of Magic Various Locations, Hot Springs maxwellbladefestivalofmagic.com
25-27
25 25-26
Hot Springs National Park Kennel Club Dog Show Hot Springs Convention Center Food Truck Fridays Hot Springs Farmers Market Antique and Estate Jewelry Trunk Show hosted by Tillman’s Tillman’s, 118 Central Ave. Hot Springs
26
2015 Alzheimer’s Arkansas Hot Springs Downtown Walk Exchange Street, Parking Plaza 128 Exchange, Hot Springs
“Thanksgiving in Two Hours” a Cooking Class Casa Bella, Hot Springs
October
<
2 2-3
2-4
3
Gallery Walk Downtown Hot Springs 5th Annual Hot Water Hills Music and Arts Festival Hill Wheatley Plaza, 629 Central Hot Springs 47th Hot Springs Arts and Crafts Fair Garland County Fairgrounds, 4831 Malvern Rd. Hot Springs 8th Annual Dancin’ for a Cause Event Hot Springs Convention Center
<
Villagestock Grove Park, Hot Springs Village Big Dam Bridge 100 Big Dam Bridge, NLR 29th Season Hickory Hill Park Hickory Hill Park, Hot Springs
Rock Porch Session featuring Markus Pearson Grove Park, Hot Springs Village
Ron Coleman Mining Crystal Digging Lecture Tour 11am-Noon | 211 Crystal Ridge Lane, Jessieville
5-9
16th Annual Bluegrass & Gospel Picking Laster Flatt Memorial Park, Vilonia
8 9-18
Michael Bolton in Concert Oaklawn’s Finish Line Theatre
24th Annual Hot Springs Documentary Film Festival The Arlington Resort Hotel hsdfi.org
Arkansas State Fair Arkansas State Fairgrounds Little Rock
10
41st Annual Old Fashioned Day Courthouse Square, Benton
2nd Annual Family Fun Day at Ron Coleman Mining 211 Crystal Ridge Lane, Jessieville
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O u ac h i t a Hi gh C ount r y
Bryant’s Buzzin’ BBQ Bash & 28th Annual Fall Fest Bishop Park, Bryant Great Arkansas Cleanup & National Public Land Day Petit Jean State Park, Morrilton
5th Annual Arkansas Paranormal Festival MacArthur Museum of Arkansas Military History, Little Rock 26-3
Conway Arts Fest Various Locations, Conway artinconway.org/artsfest
<
3
26
10-31 11
Magic Screams Magic Springs
Hot Springs Concert Band 40th Anniversary Concert Woodlands Auditorium, Hot Springs Village
“Ballet & Blooms” Ballet Arkansas Event and Reception Garvan Woodland Gardens, Anthony Chapel & Pavillion
Hot Springs Wine & Food Fest Central Park Fusion, 200 Park Hot Springs
15 17
Roller Coaster Race at Magic Springs 10K/5K Magic Springs
2015 Arkansas Senior Expo Statehouse Convention Center
18 24 24-26
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Rhythm Jam Grove Park, Hot Springs Village Hot Springs Village Fall Fest Balboa Beach, Hot Springs Village Pysanky in the Gardens Garvan Woodland Gardens, Magnolia Room, Hot Springs United Way’s First Zombie Run Cedar Glades Park, Hot Springs
November
<
5 6 6-7
Business Fest 2015 Hot Springs Convention Center Stevie Wonder at Verizon Arena Verizon Arena, NLR Gallery Walk Downtown Hot Springs ‘Tis the Season, a Holiday Shopping Event Hot Springs Convention Center
6-8
National Native American Heritage Month Cossatot River State Park, Wickes
7
National Cheerleading Association Classic Championship Bank of the Ozarks Arena, Hot Springs
Ron Coleman Mining Crystal Digging Lecture Tour 11am-Noon | 211 Crystal Ridge Lane, Jessieville
Ouachita Arts Celebration Downtown Arts District, Mena
7-8
Civil War Weekend Historic Washington State Park, Washington
14 15 19
20-21
21
Arkansas Symphony Masterworks Beethoven & Blue Jeans Maumella Performing Arts Center, Maumelle Mrs. Arkansas Pageant Hot Springs Convention Center Rock Porch Session Grove Park, Hot Springs Village
4 4-6
Holiday in the Park Hot Springs Convention Center Ice on Ice The Arlington Resort Hotel Hot Springs Gallery Walk Downtown Hot Springs
Arkansas Craft Guild’s 37th Annual Christmas Showcase Statehouse Convention Center
1st Annual Holiday Giveaways at Ron Coleman Mining 10am-2pm | 211 Crystal Ridge Lane, Jessieville
5
Christmas Open House Petit Jean State Park, Morrilton
5
6
7
Spa 21 Running Festival Downtown Hot Springs
Arts & Crafts Fair Coronado Community Center, Hot Springs Village
23
16th Annual Taste of the Holidays Mid-America Science Museum
25-29
The Three Pianists Hempstead Hall, Hope
26
Annual Spa Run Bicycle Overnight Race Pleasent Grove Baptist Church, 27025 Kanis, Little Rock The Village Big Band Holiday Lights Opening Night Concert Garvan Woodland Gardens, Anthony Chapel, Hot Springs
December
<
3
<
Art. Function. Craft. Exhibit Begins River Market District, Little Rock
Thanksgiving Getaway DeGray Lake Resort State Park, Bismarck
Harbor’s Annual Thanksgiving Dinner on the Lake The Lodge Restaurant, Mount Ida
Friday 27 AllGreen Arkansas State Parks 27-29 18th Annual Mountain Rendezvous
Petit Jean State Park, Morrilton
<
Mena Christmas Festival & Christmas Parade Janssen Park, Mena Annual 5K Yule Run Town Square, Glenwood 48th Annual Christmas Frolic Historic Arkansas Museum, Little Rock Hot Springs Christmas Parade Downtown Hot Springs Annual Bean Feed and Christmas Parade Town Square, Glenwood
HSU Carol of Lights Arkansas Hall Auditorium, Arkadelphia
7
Hot Springs Concert Band Annual Winter Concert Woodlands Auditorium, Hot Springs Village
The Turkey Jam - JAMfest 12 Hot Springs Convention Center 9th Annual Christmas and Candlelight Historic Washington State Park, Washington
24th Annual Ouachita Hills Christmas Program Amity City Hall
The Muses Project presents “Voices of Angels” The Muses Cultural Arts Center,
12-13
Ou a c hit a H ighCo u nt ry.com
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HOT SPRINGS VILLAGE
Reinventing a Village Putting a Youthful Spin on a Classic Model & Creating a Community That Stands the Test of Time
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“It’s not about losing anything, but about creating additional lifestyles that will both enhance our lives and create a more meaningful place to live.” - David Twiggs, COO of Hot Springs Village
by Rex Nelson photography by Jeremy Rodgers
The year was 1948, and a West Memphis businessman named John A. Cooper Sr. had an idea. World War II veterans were starting their families and buying homes after having attended college on the G.I. Bill. Cooper, who lived in the flat cotton country of the Arkansas Delta, looked west to the Ozark foothills, confident that some of these veterans eventually would want a house in the hills. He purchased 400 acres near where Otter Creek ran into the Spring River in north Arkansas. At first, he used his Otter Creek Ranch as a family retreat. Cooper, however, had a bigger plan in mind. He began buying additional land in Sharp and Fulton counties, and in 1953 he formed the Cherokee Village Development Co. with the idea of selling lots to people in Midwestern states such as Iowa, Illinois and Wisconsin. Arkansas Gov. Orval Faubus attended the dedication of Cherokee Village in June 1955 and declared it to be the “coming mecca of the Ozarks.” Cooper built two golf courses, seven lakes, 350 miles of roads, a water system
and three recreation centers. Memphisbased historian Wayne Dowdy would later write that Cherokee Village “had a profound impact on Arkansas. The retirement community industry became an integral part of the state’s economy as the older Americans who flocked to Cherokee Village transformed the state into one of the most innovative and popular retirement destinations in the United States.” In essence, John Cooper had given birth to a new industry. In the 1960s, he set his sights on Bella Vista in northwest Arkansas, which had a long history as a resort. Cooper began buying up land and dividing it into lots. During the next 35 years, more than 37,000 lots were sold. Almost 13,000 of them have been developed. The population of Bella Vista soared from 2,589 in the 1980 census to 26,461 in the 2010 census. In 1970, Cooper looked to the southwest and the Ouachita Mountains. He began developing a 20,000-acre tract in Saline and Garland counties into what’s now the jewel known as Hot Springs Village. Ou a c hit a H ighCo u nt ry.com
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HOT SPRINGS VILLAGE
The Encyclopedia of Arkansas History & Culture notes: “Cooper had been approached separately by two people with the idea of creating a retirement community, state Sen. Bud Canada and Peter D. Joers, the president of the Dierks Coal & Lumber Co. After touring the property by air, Cooper realized the potential of the land and immediately bought 20,000 acres from Dierks Forests Inc. His plan was to create a peaceful retirement community in a natural setting that would offer all modern-day conveniences without the hassle of living in an urbanized city. Unlike his other two communities, Hot Springs Village was created as a gated community in order to provide security for its residents and as an experiment to see if the gated community would result in more residents than the nongated communities.”
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Ground was broken on Feb. 15, 1970, and lots were being sold by June of that year. The population of Hot Springs Village grew from 2,083 in the 1980 census to 6,371 in the 1990 census to 8,397 in the 2000 census to 12,807 in the 2010 census. Demographics and preferences changed along the way, though. The Baby Boomers are different from their parents. Though Hot Springs Village remains a golfers’ paradise, not as many of the Baby Boomers want to live by a golf course in a rural area during their retirement years. Some prefer urban areas with amenities such as fine restaurants, live theater, a symphony orchestra and sports events. Enter David Twiggs.
Twiggs became the chief operating officer for Hot Springs Village two years ago. He was charged with instituting a change of philosophy. Earlier in his career, Twiggs had initiated changes at similar developments in North Carolina, Georgia and South Carolina. He knew that amenities such as free music events, farmers’ markets, appearances by chefs and hunting and fishing clubs could add a 21st century lifestyle touch to John Cooper Sr.’s 20th century vision. The modern term for it is “placemaking.” During the Governor’s Conference on Tourism at Texarkana this spring, Twiggs participated on a panel that discussed how places such as Hot Springs Village must redefine themselves in the 21st century. “When planned communities such as Hot Springs Village were developed, all
that was needed to create value was an emphasis on golf and country club living,” he said that day in Texarkana. “From the 1970s to the early 2000s, banks were willing to finance these types of communities. It didn’t really matter when the communities were built. As long as they had gates, nice homes and an emphasis on golf, then the lots could be sold. … There has been a shift among consumers to a lifestyle that’s more focused on doing, serving and learning. Conspicuous consumption is no longer seen as a value by today’s consumers or by banks interested in these types of communities.” Twiggs wants to transform Hot Springs Village into a true destination. “It’s not about losing anything. It’s about creating additional lifestyles that will both enhance our lives and create
a more meaningful place to live,” Twiggs says. “What we want to do is to maximize what we already have here in Hot Springs Village while increasing opportunities for authentic living and connection with others.” He says that working with members of the property owners’ association has been “exciting, a chance to explore opportunities to help Hot Springs Village reach its potential.” “I learned a lot during my previous 18 years in the business through trial and error,” Twiggs says. He became aware of the job opening at Hot Springs Village when contacted by a professional headhunter. “I didn’t know anything about Arkansas,” Twiggs admits. “Nothing whatsoever.”
What he did know about was reinventing communities that once had been based mostly on golf. “Golfers are going to pay for a great experience,” Twiggs says. “And we can offer that with eight courses. But that no longer sells to a lot of the baby boomers. A number of golf communities across the country are resistant to change. To their credit, the people here realized there had to be changes. What I saw here was a ton of untapped potential. For instance, Hot Springs Village and the city of Hot Springs had never worked that closely together. But the city of Hot Springs has great bones. That should be part of the attraction for people to come to this area. We also must do more to incorporate everything that’s available in the Ouachita Mountains. We must start thinking as a region.” Ou a c hit a H ighCo u nt ry.com
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HOT SPRINGS VILLAGE
The steps Twiggs has taken in recent months include: • Affiliating Hot Springs Village with Troon Golf, a company that manages more than 170 facilities in 35 states and 28 countries. More than 50 of its facilities have a Top 100 ranking by national or international publications. Twiggs says: “Troon was our first choice as the top golf business talent internationally, and we look forward to expanding our relationship.” • Creating the Ouachita Rod & Gun Club, an effort to bring people of like interests together to network and socialize. The club organizes events and keeps members aware of outdoor activities across the region. The club will hold events ranging from striper fishing outings on Lake Ouachita to duck hunting on the Grand Prairie and trout fishing on the upper White River. • Creating Basecamp, an outdoor adventure initiative for those involved in hiking, kayaking, bicycling, mountain biking and other outdoor activities. • Opening a facility known as Waypoint at DeSoto Marina. A 2,200-squarefoot deck was added and the facility is now the home of Basecamp while renting canoes, kayaks, standup paddleboards, bicycles and motorboats. Little Penguin Tacos, a local organic food vendor, now serves food from 11 a.m. until 9 p.m. each Tuesday through Saturday at Waypoint. • Establishing Grove Park as the home for the weekly Green Market farmers’ market and as a community gathering place for the new Artisan Market, which each quarter offers local handmade arts and crafts ranging from jewelry to pottery. Grove Park is also the outdoor live performance venue for the Rock Porch music sessions, which take place the first Saturday of every month. • Creating trails for hiking and mountain biking, a whitewater program in the spillway of Balboa Lake and announcing plans for the addition of a recreational shooting sports complex.
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O u ac h i t a Hi gh C ount r y
In other words, Hot Springs Village is now about much more than golf. Twiggs and the members of his management team want to be able to attract everything from hikers to foodies to craft beer enthusiasts. He calls the focus solely on golf a “1970s model. I told them what I thought when I interviewed for this job. For starters, I won’t take a job anywhere that I wouldn’t want to take my family on vacation. Now, we’re beginning to appeal to these various subcultures such as hikers, climbers, kayakers and foodies. People are talking to each other.” “After two years, the message is finally getting through to our residents that we’re not trying to take anything away from them. Instead, we’re adding to the offerings. Look, we’re the gateway to the Ouachitas. It’s no longer just about
what the property owners’ association can give you. It’s about what this whole region can give you.” Twiggs says he has been pleased by the influx of young families that now call Hot Springs Village home. “If you’re going to attract more residents, you must first start getting more people through the gates,” Twiggs says. “We have to communicate to people that Hot Springs Village is not a club. What makes a place interesting to someone? That’s a question I ask myself several times each day. The traditional model was to sell lots to people who were originally from the upper Midwest. They tended to work for corporations that had transferred them every few years. They didn’t have deep roots anywhere, but they knew
they wanted to retire where the winters were milder. That model is no longer enough. I’m in the lifestyle business. My job is to provide memorable, rewarding experiences in a number of areas. It’s really neat to see it all starting to come together.” Along with the younger families are retirees who care not just about their golf game but about finding a place their grandchildren will want to visit on a regular basis. “It’s very gratifying when people tell me that they feel something exciting is starting to happen here,” Twiggs says. “And this is just the start. I want more walkable communities. I want a bakery and a wine bar. It’s all about getting people to engage with each other. That’s the big picture.” Ou a c hit a H ighCo u nt ry.com
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“POWER OVER PESTS”
Protecting the health and property of Arkansas people Locally owned and operated in HSV since 1970
5 Ponderosa Way Hot Springs Village (501) 922-3585 www.terminixhsv.com
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O u ac h i t a Hi gh C ount r y
Photographerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Favorite Section 8 of the Ouachita Trail
by Josh Williams photography by Jeremy Rodgers & Chris Sale
Ou a c hit a H ighCo u nt ry.com
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SECTION 8
They say a picture is worth a thousand words. Sometimes one will see an image so powerful that it will burn itself into one’s conscience like a cattle brand forever. However, not every picture taken has the ability to change lives or shift the world’s balance of power, but every picture does have one thing in common: Proof. Confirmation. If someone or something has its picture taken, it validates its existence. Ouachita High Country is lucky enough to have some of the best picture-takers in the region on its staff (as one can plainly see every issue), and the magazine is introducing a new section: Photographer’s Favorite. Our staff photographers have one of the more interesting and challenging jobs that one could have, and it’s time to give them some recognition. In this new section, our photographers pick one of their favorite spots in the OHC and we profile it. In this first segment, we focus on “Section 8” of the Ouachita Trail.
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O u ac h i t a Hi gh C ount r y
The Ouachita National Recreation Trail (ONRT) is a 223-mile long, uninterrupted trail contained within the Ouachita National Forest of Oklahoma and Arkansas. The Ouachita National Forest was established in 1907 and spans an area of 1.8 million acres. The ONRT is the longest backpacking trail in the Ouachita National Forest, and it is utilized by hikers, backpackers, hunters. This nonmotorized, single lane trail is only open to foot traffic, but, it is also partially open to mountain bikes. The sections open to mountain bikes are from the western terminus of the Ouachita Trail in Talimena State Park to the Big Cedar trailhead on US Highway 259 at approximately Mile Marker (MM) 30 in Oklahoma, and from the Talimena Scenic Drive Trailhead at MM 54, east to Highway 7 at MM 160, north of Jessieville, Arkansas. The last 31 miles of the trail are maintained by Pinnacle Mountain State Park, on land which is owned by several timber
companies and Central Arkansas Water. There are plans to connect the Ouachita Trail to downtown Little Rock in the future. Two of Ouachita High Country magazine’s photographers spent some time out on the ONRT, particularly in Section 8 of the trail (and no, they’re not physically unstable— maybe mentally unstable—but who are we to judge?). Chris Sale and Jeremy Rodgers are professional photographers and outdoor enthusiasts that had the pleasure of traversing Section 8 of the ONRT, and it’s easy to see why they chose this spot for their first “Favorite” feature: It’s breathtaking. “It is absolutely beautiful,” Jeremy said. “There is no city-like intimidation out here. It is so easy to just concentrate on nature. There were no distractions whatsoever: No lights, no engines, just us and the sanctuary of mother earth.” “After we set up camp,” Chris said, “ we witnessed the moon coming up over the
ridge, and I almost lost it. I think I might have had an out-of-body experience because nothing else existed in that moment but me and that view.” The forested mountains, the sweeping valleys and the almost crystal clear-running streams probably have something to do with the feelings of infatuation Jeremy and Chris have for this slice of nature. But, it’s not all crimson and clover when it comes to this prodder’s paradise. Some of the trail located in Section 8 is somewhat overgrown. In fact, some of it is almost impassable. The US Forest Service can only do so much, and the non-profit 501©3 Friends of the Ouachita Trail, can’t be out there every day to do all the maintenance that’s needed. But, the situation isn’t that bad. According to Bo Lea, president of Friends of the Ouachita Trail, only 27 miles of the 223 mile long trail are in “Red” condition. This means that there is heavy vegetation impeding or
restricting passage, whether its overgrown vines or fallen trees. Jeremy said, “One part was pretty bad. After we woke in the morning, we started out and missed the connection completely. (We) didn’t even recognize the trail entrance.” Rationalizing that moment, he added “it’s no wonder people come here to practice the ONRT before attempting (the) Appalachian Trail or the Pacific Coast Trail.” “I wanted to see more than we did,” said Chris. “Some of it was pretty overgrown, there are vines and wooded areas that need pruning—foot traffic alone will help out immensely in perpetuating the trail.” The ONRT runs through eight counties in Oklahoma and Arkansas, so there should be plenty of people who can supply some needed trampling. Chris said, “We basically just need people to come stamp on it. (We need) people to come help be a part of the cause. It’s so beautiful anyway, just do a little
maintenance while (you’re) out here and make it easier to hike in the future.” This scenic trail might be challenging and only fit for the avid outdoors person in some areas, but even novice hikers and bikers can enjoy this natural wonder. There are other recreational opportunities on the trail: Developed areas for recreation, weather shelters, picnic areas, shooting ranges, float camps and visitor information stations are strategically placed throughout the ONRT. Right now is the perfect time to get out there and do some trailing. The comfortable autumn weather and the beautiful foliage are the perfect recipe for an outdoor excursion. “I can’t imagine what this place is going to look like in a couple months,” Chris said. We can’t imagine either, Chris. For more on the Ouachita National Recreation Trail call 501-321-5202 or visit www.aokforests.com. Ou a c hit a H ighCo u nt ry.com
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33
FALL FESTIVALS
The Festivals of Fall Harvest Time in the High Country is about More than Just the Squash by Josh Williams
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O u ac h i t a Hi gh C ount r y
Fall is a time for harvest: A time to gather the fruitage from our tree known as hard work. A time to reap the rewards of trudging through brutal, relentless, raindeprived, mosquito-infested summers. Most autumn festivals are centered around pumpkins, hay bales, apple cider, face paint and multi-hued maize, and there is nothing wrong with the old standards. But, the fall festivals in the Ouachitas are as varied as the terrain; there are Native American heritage celebrations, music and craft festivals, sporting events and some festivities even have outhouse races. Explore the Ouachitas this autumn. There is more out there than the veritable cornucopias: 2nd Annual Villagestock This has become the “Woodstock” of Hot Springs Village, sans the LSDinfluenced nudity and mud pits. There will be a wide array of music from local bands, food trucks will supply the nourishment and artisans will offer their hand-crafted goods. Grove Park will be the host venue, located at 1105 DeSoto Blvd. in Hot Springs Village. Saturday, September 26 is the day for music, food and fun. www.HSVTicketSales.com 47th Annual Hot Springs Arts & Crafts Fair This is a juried show with approximately 375 exhibitors. Many crafts from local artisans will be available: ceramics, furniture, jewelry, quilts, stuffed toys, handmade soaps and more. There will also be a petting zoo, a bounce house and pony rides for children. Wheelchairs and strollers are available if needed. Golf carts will provide transportation to and from parking. The event takes place October 2-4 at the Garland County Fairgrounds located at 4831 Malvern Ave. Hours are Friday and Saturday 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. and Sunday noon to 5 p.m. with free parking. Call Phyllis Pipkin at 501-762-2701.
Motley’s Pumpkin Patch
Motley’s Farm Pumpkin Festival There aren’t many family farms in this country that are open to the public. Mr. Motley has one. From October 3 through November 1, 2015 entire families can come enjoy a day in a pumpkin patch. Picture “It’s the Great Pumpkin, Charlie Brown” but with lots of great local eats, hay rides, pig races and cow trains… Motley’s Farm is located at 13724 Sandy Ann Drive in Little Rock, AR 72206. Call 501-888-1125 or visit www. MotleysPumpkinPatch.com 2nd Annual Ouachita Fall Foliage Festival This festival offers some of the most entertaining outdoor fun in the Ouachitas. It begins with the Run for the Son 5K race. There is also a Kids Activity Korner with inflatables, a chili cook-off, a motorbike stunt show, a pumpkin chunkin’ contest, and a couch potato contest with the broadcast of the Arkansas Razorback football game on a giant screen. Beautiful Jannsen Park in Mena, Arkansas will be the site for this day of autumn fun on Saturday, October 24. Call 479-394-2912 www. menapolkchamber.com
1st Annual Arktoberfest Craft Beer and Catfish Cook-off Now, when is comes to Arkansas fall festivals, this one might take the cake. Who wouldn’t want to join a festival with tricycle races, beard competitions, catfish cookoffs, home-brewed beer competitions, human foosball games, pumpkin launches, small fry fun runs, Razorback football, food trucks, local wine and ciders, and live music? On Saturday, October 10, Arkadelphia will be hopping with family fun. Hours are 10am to 10pm and tickets are $35 with special discounts for families. For more info visit www.arktoberfest.org National Native American Heritage Festival November is Native American Heritage month. Join the community of Wickes, AR on Friday, November 6 through Sunday, November 8 to celebrate modern and traditional cultures of the Native American people and societies. The festival will be held at the Cossatot River State Park Natural Area. The festival will highlight the hugely important contributions of Native Americans and the shared history between tribal nations and communities. Contact the Cossatot River State Park at 870-385-2201. Ou a c hit a H ighCo u nt ry.com
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FALL FESTIVALS
Hammock Village at Hot Water Hills
28th Annual World Championship Quartz Crystal Dig For those out there that like to reminisce of younger days when digging in the dirt and making mud pies was of the utmost importance, this festival is for you. On Friday, October 9 and Saturday, October 10 in Mt. Ida, Arkansas, anyone who wants to get in on the digging fun is more than welcome. A person can keep all the crystals they dig up, and there will be a total of $1,500 in prize money awarded. There are two categories--Best Cluster and Best Point. There will be an awards banquet to conclude the festivities on Saturday. This event is presented by the Mt. Ida Chamber of Commerce and coincides with the Quartz, Quiltz and Craftz festival at the Montgomery County Fairgrounds. Call 870-867-2723 for more.
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Women Outdoors Weekend It is always invigorating to experience the beautiful landscape of western Arkansas. It’s what living in the High Country is all about, and it’s not just about the fellas either. From Friday, October 16 through Sunday, October 18 every lady in the Ouachitas is encouraged open the door to their senses by getting away and reconnecting with nature. Lake Catherine State Park will offer sessions on basic camping, nature journaling, kayaking and much more. All women are invited to join in the outdoor fun by hanging out, laughing and building new friendships. All meals, gear and instruction are included in the registration fee. Space is limited, so make your reservations today. Call 501-8444176 or email the park superintendent, lakecatherine@arkansas.com.
The Corn Maze at Lollie Remember that movie Children of the Corn where the kids took over society and started murdering all the adults in town? Don’t worry, this is nothing like that. But, kids will “rule the roost” so to speak, at this annual fall festival of corn stalk mazes, hay rides, straw tunnels and picnics. With miles of maize mazes and fun for the whole family, this is one festival where it’s ok to be too corny. The Corn Maze at Lollie will be open Fridays through Sundays from September 26 through October 31, 2015 and is located at 863 Lollie Road in Mayflower, AR 72106. Hours of operation are 12:00pm– 10:30pm on Fridays, 10:00am–11:00pm on Saturdays and 1:00pm–7:00pm on Sundays. For more call 501-269-7903 or visit www.cornmazeatlollie.com.
YOUR GOLF D E ST I NAT I ON 5th Annual Hot Water Hills Music & Arts Festival Hot Springs has become known as a hotbed of musical and artistic talent. On Friday and Saturday October 2 and 3, that talent will be on display. Located at Hill Wheatley Plaza, 629 Central Avenue in downtown Hot Springs, Arkansas, this family-friendly festival is quickly becoming a local autumn favorite. Local food and beverage vendors, artisans and crafters and musicians descend on the Valley of the Vapors like moths to a flame. Adam Faucett and the Tall Grass, Magnolia Sons, Sad Daddy, Big Piph & Tomorrow Maybe, Ghost Bones, Christian Lee Hutson and Daniel Romano are just a few of the musical outfits scheduled for the weekend. Admission is $5 and gates open at 4:30pm Friday and noon on Saturday. Children under 12 are free. Bring a lawn chair as there is no seating. www.hotwaterhills.com Hot Springs Village Fall Fest Where can one go to a carnival, a concert, a barbecue and a haunted forest all in one place? No, not Disneyland. Fall Fest in Hot Springs Village fits this bill. October 24 will be a day full of funnel cakes, soulful americana, pulled pork and bad eastern-european accents, all on beautiful Lake Balboa Beach. There will be classic carnival fare, barbeque fusion food from a collaboration between Next Level Barbecue by Louis Williams and The Ronin Chef Porter, music from storyteller extraordinaires Adam Faucett and the Tall Grass, hayrides and a haunted forest. The event is sponsored by Arvest Bank. The event is free admission and ticket booths will be available to play the games and participate in the carnivalstyle fun. Visit www.HSVPOA.org or call 501-922-4231 for more information. There is no shortage of fun in the Ouachitas this season. Whatever one does, make sure it’s something outside. Enjoy this beautiful landscape, unique to the world, that is the Ouachita National Forest region.
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The Greatest Game on Earth The Roots of Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Pastime are Surfacing in the Ouachitas by Josh Williams photography courtesy of Larry Foley & the Garland County Historical Society
Honus Wagner, Spring Training Hot Springs, Ark.
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BASEBALL HISTORY
Babe Ruth at Oaklawn Park, Hot Springs “An old friend once told me, ‘This is a simple game: You throw the ball, you hit the ball, you catch the ball. Sometimes you win, sometimes you lose, sometimes it rains.’ Think about that for a while.” Ebby Calvin “Nuke” LaLoosh, the youngminded, right-handed fireballer from the movie Bull Durham was right. Baseball might be an easy game to play, but to master it is a whole different ball game. The odds of becoming a major league ballplayer are about one in a million, literally. One of the greatest players in history, and the last man to hit .400 in a season, Ted Williams said, “Baseball is the only field of endeavor where a man can succeed three times out of ten and be considered a good performer.” Being a professional ballplayer takes years of practice, dedication, lots of natural talent and a little luck. Every February the game’s veterans, and young hopefuls alike, shake off the winter rust by participating in what’s
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iconically known as spring training, and spring training began in the foothills of the Ouachita mountains. Baseball in this country can trace its roots back to 1792 when a Pittsfield, Massachusetts law banned the playing of “baseball” within 80 yards of the town meeting house. Another early reference to “base ball” was in 1823 when it was played on Saturdays on the outskirts of New York City in what is now Greenwich Village. The first team to play baseball under the modern rules were the New York Knickerbockers, who were founded on September 23, 1845, as a social club for the upper middle classes of New York City. Baseball in Hot Springs can be traced back to 1886, when owner of the Chicago White Stockings (today’s Cubs) A.G. Spalding and playermanager Cap Anson needed a place to get their players in shape and “boil out the alcoholic impurities” from their hard-
living employees. They heard about this hiding place-turned-sanctum called Hot Springs, Arkansas. The mountainous terrain and healing thermal waters were quintessential in rejuvenating player’s minds and bodies after arduous 154-game seasons and winters of debauchery. The White Stockings won the pennant the same year they initially visited the town, and seeing the results of Chicago’s training regimen, other team owners followed Spalding’s lead in the coming years, thus giving birth to spring training in The Spa City. And what a monumental birth it was, not only for spring training in Hot Springs, but for spring training in the United States as a whole. The 143 degree waters and challenging topography performed miracles of sorts on the players’ brokendown bodies. The town also offered many opportunities for these players to let loose and unwind. Some of the game’s biggest
Larry Foley on Set
stars spent many a spring in “The Valley of the Vapors.” Babe Ruth hit a 573-foot home run (the longest in recorded history) at Whittington Park on St. Patrick’s Day in 1918. Joe DiMaggio played golf at Belvedere Country Club on Park Avenue. Walter Johnson and Cy Young hiked the trails in Happy Hollow. Stan Musial watched the races at Oaklawn Park. John McGraw was arrested at the Arlington Hotel for gambling in a local saloon. Honus Wagner coached the high school basketball team. Smoky Joe Wood rode an ostrich. But these aren’t the only players with ties to Hot Springs. Larry Foley, the chair of Journalism at the University of Arkansas said, “Hot Springs was a haven for more than 250 major league baseball players. Actually, about forty-five percent of baseball players in the Hall of Fame today have physical ties to Hot Springs. It’s astounding what role Hot Springs has played in the development and culture of major league baseball, and most people don’t know anything about it. It has escaped the general attention of the community for too long and it’s time that these stories be told.” The telling of these stories has now become a reality. This October, a documentary film titled The First Boys of Spring, which
was written and directed by Foley, will premiere at the 24th annual Hot Springs Documentary Film Festival on October 10. The film is also narrated by Arkansas’ own Billy Bob Thornton. The film documents all of the baseballinfused happenings that took place in Hot Springs around the turn of the century. “I’m a huge baseball fan and a huge history buff,” said Foley, “and I thought there might be enough here to tell the tale; sure enough, there was. I was enjoying the story and learning so much, that two years went by before I realized it. It’s a really fun story. It’s an excellent story. It’s about Hot Springs in the ‘Golden Era’ and it’s something I hope the town will be proud of. It’s high time we told these stories. They’re too rich not to tell. People will walk out saying ‘who knew?’ Where else can you find a spot in this country where baseball players fed chickens to alligators?” That’s what Hot Springs can do to a person. It’s easy to see why people of all walks of life gravitate toward this place. It has an air of mystery. It is quirky and eccentric. It possesses strange, mystical powers that make it hard to leave. Bill Jenkinson is a renowned author and baseball historian who was instrumental in the forming of the Hot Springs Baseball
Trail. “I remember my first visit to Hot Springs back in the summer of 1960”, Bill said. “We were on the way to visit my Aunt Stella and I remember driving past the bath houses, being struck by this great sense of romanticism and history, even as a thirteen-year-old. I don’t know of any other place in the country like this.” Baseball proponents Foley and Jenkinson, along with the invaluable help from Visit Hot Springs’ CEO Steve Arrison, Hot Springs native and baseball buff Mike Dugan, The Garland County Historical Society and many others have made public the annals of baseball history in this quaint little mountain town, and it’s about time. Baseball is our game. It’s American as apple pie and hot dogs. It’s the gentlemen’s game. It’s time that the people of the Ouachita region recognize what they have. Walt Whitman probably said it best: “I see great things in baseball. It’s our game—the American game. It will take our people out-of-doors, fill them with oxygen, give them a larger physical stoicism. Tend to relieve us from being a nervous, dyspeptic set. Repair these losses, and be a blessing to us.” For more on the colorful and storied history of baseball in Hot Springs visit www. hotsprings.org or call 1-800-SPACITY. Ou a c hit a H ighCo u nt ry.com
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NATIVE
Snakes of Arkansas
One day, I was in my backyard with my family. Birds were singing their last songs of the day as the warm orange tones began to give way to the cool purple of dusk when a shriek rang out from over by the fence where the kids were playing. I rush over to see a kitten, backing up into the wooden planks in fear. I once knew a person who had been scratched by a cat and it made him very sick, so I knew what I had to do. I went and retrieved my shovel and proceeded to bash it until it was no longer a threat to me or my family. That seems a little warped, right? How about you replace the kitten with a snake? Does it make more sense, then? Unfortunately, that’s the mindset of most people. Regardless of what type
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of snake it is or even where they are, people feel as if it is some sort of civic duty to cleanse these animals from our lives. I’ve actually ran into a person at a state park nature trail who gleefully informed me that he had killed a “5 foot cottonmouth” further along, only to find the 3 foot long mangled body of a plainbelly watersnake. Not only is it disrespectful to nature, but killing a snake for no reason is actually illegal. The fact is, of the thirty-six different species of snakes in Arkansas, only 6 are venomous. Chances are, the snake you’re about to sing a blunt lullaby to is as helpless as a kitten. Actually, kittens have claws and much larger teeth. Most people can name a few folks who have been bitten by a cat or a dog, while the list of snake victims is usually pulled from the
The Most Misunderstood Creatures Just Need a Little Understanding by Ryan Klare
experience of a friend’s sister-inlaw ’s cousin’s boyfriend’s coworker. So, people want to know how to keep them away. A common avoidance tip is to sprinkle mothballs or sulphur powder around suspect areas, which is great if you want your snakes to smell like mothballs or sulphur powder. That’s about all it does. The best way to cut down the odds of running into a snake, venomous or not, is to keep grass trimmed and any piles of limbs, leaf litter or things like sheet metal from sitting for too long. That’s like a reptile Ramada Inn. They don’t really care to be around places with lots of activity, because it’s bad for hunting. If there’s nowhere for a mouse to be, there’s usually nowhere for a snake.
Join the Club! The old tip of “look for the triangle shaped head” doesn’t really hold up. Every snake, when threatened, will flatten its head to look like bigger and the “round eye versus cat eye” fact does hold up with our native snakes aside from the coral snake, but not many people want to get cheek to cheek to really verify that. The best tactic is to be mindful of where you’re walking. Most encounters will last no more than a few seconds if the snake has a clear path of escape. Just take a breath and observe some of the most specialized hunters around. They aren’t here to hurt you, just to eat your pests. Not pets, pests.
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If you’d like to learn more about Arkansan snakes, check out www. herpsofarkansas.com Ou a c hit a H ighCo u nt ry.com
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GLANCE BACK
Albert Pike Treasure
Everyone loves a good lost treasure story. People all over the world have devoted many months or even years trying to uncover buried receptacles of riches they once heard about in a story in the dark. With the exception of very few, none of these treasure hunts produce the proverbial “pot of gold,” but the thought of finding a king’s ransom is pretty enticing. What’s even more enticing is the fact that legend says there is a bounty of booty right here in the Ouachita Mountain region. We’ll tell you a little more about it, but we’re not going to give away too much…we want to find it too. Albert Pike was born in Boston, Massachusetts, son of Ben and Sarah (Andrews) Pike, and spent his childhood in Byfield and Newburyport, Massachusetts. In August 1825, he passed entrance
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exams at Harvard University, but when the college requested payment of tuition fees for the first two years, which he had successfully challenged by examination, he chose not to attend. He began a program of self-education, later becoming a schoolteacher in Gloucester, North Bedford, Fairhaven and Newburyport. In 1831, Pike left Massachusetts to travel west, first stopping in St. Louis and later moving on to Independence, Missouri. In Independence, he joined an expedition to Taos, New Mexico to do some hunting and trading. During the excursion his horse broke and ran, forcing Pike to walk the remaining 500 miles to Taos. After reaching Taos he joined a trapping expedition heading back east, with their sights set on the Llano Estacado in New Mexico and Texas. Trapping was minimal and after traveling about 1300
Tall Tales of Confederate Gold by Josh Williams photos courtesy of Barbara Williams & the Garland County Historical Society
miles (650 on foot), he finally arrived at Fort Smith, Arkansas. In 1833, Pike taught school and wrote a series of articles for the Little Rock, Arkansas publication, the Advocate under the pen name of “Casca.” The articles were popular enough that he was asked to join the newspaper’s staff. Later, after marrying Mary Ann Hamilton, he reportedly purchased part of the newspaper. By 1835, he was the Advocate’s sole owner. Under Pike’s administration, the Advocate promoted the viewpoint of the Whig Party in a politically volatile and divided Arkansas. Pike then began to study law and was admitted to the bar in 1837, selling the Advocate the same year. He was the first reporter for the Arkansas Supreme
Court and also wrote a book titled “The Arkansas Form Book,” which was a guidebook for lawyers. Additionally, Pike wrote on several legal subjects and continued producing poetry, one of his early loves. His poems were highly regarded in his day, but are now mostly forgotten. Several volumes of his works were privately published posthumously by his daughter, and in 1859, he received an honorary Master of Arts degree from Harvard. As much as Albert Pike accomplished, there was still more that most people don’t know about. Is it any surprise that he was a member of the Freemasons? He first joined the Independent Order of Odd Fellows in 1840, then joined a Masonic Lodge and became extremely active in the affairs of the organization, being elected Sovereign Grand Commander of the Scottish Rite’s Southern Jurisdiction in 1859. He remained Sovereign Grand Commander for the remainder of his life (32 years), devoting a large amount of his time to developing the rituals of the order. Notably, he published a book called “Morals and Dogma of the Ancient and Accepted Scottish Rite of Freemasonry ” in 1871, of which there were several subsequent editions.
This is where the legend of the Albert Pike treasure begins, and the legend is just that, it’s folklore: There has never been any substantiated evidence of gold in the Albert Pike area. There is a park in the the foothills of the Ouachitas, near the town of Langley, Arkansas that bears Pike’s name. This was supposedly one of the numerous locales that were drawn up as one of the treasure repositories for Pike’s masonic group, Knights of the Golden Circle. It’s a beautiful place that’s free and open to the public with winding rivers and hiking trails, numerous campsites and waterfalls and caves…or it was, at least. During a torrential rain and subsequent flood of the Little Missouri River on June 10, 2010, twenty people who were camping lost their lives. Overnight camping is no longer allowed and it has unfortunately hurt the economy of the area and it may never recover, but that’s what the treasure is for, right? According to Ed King’s website, www. masonicinfo.com, Warren Getler and Bob Brewer are the authors of a book entitled “Rebel Gold.” Bob recounts a journal entry from his grandfather as the basis of the Albert Pike Treasure legend: “The Knights of the Golden Circle are a little-known group that was
formed in the northern, mid-west United States as the Civil War was drawing to a close. It was their hope that the battle to maintain slavery could be continued even as the inevitability of the lost cause was, to most, patently obvious. Created and maintained with utter secrecy, it’s a little-known footnote to history, never having accomplished anything and having faded away in time - except in the mind of two people.” So you’re probably wondering how Albert Pike and Freemasonry get tied into all this? Here it is: Mr. Brewer’s “Grandpa” with whom he has some limited contact as a teenager, goes off into the woods to, in Grampa’s words, “shoot cows”. Years later, looking in Grampa’s diary, Bob learns that there were two “...unusual entries: “Found cow in cave” followed by the next day’s “Stayed home.” As a boy, Bob had no way of knowing that “cow” might have been shorthand for “cowan,” an old Masonic term for “intruder.” Even if one never finds any treasure at the Albert Pike Recreational Area, the sheer beauty and rugged, natural landscape are enough to make any visitor feel like they’ve struck gold. For more on the Albert Pike Recreation Area, go to www. fs.usda.com, or call 870-356-4186. Ou a c hit a H ighCo u nt ry.com
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IN YOUR WORDS
Falling for Autumn poem by Sensear Dialect aka Dascribe, Hot Springs, Ark.
I fall, Every season. It is beyond my control To make her stay, So I hold her tight Like The last leaf before winter. I love her presence An unforgettable euphoria Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s so ideal I close my eyes. Absorb it all. I fall, Into her Soft Dreamy Warm touch Caressing my skin Gently Like A tender cool breeze. I fall, For her beauty Gracefully Dancing Like leaves In the wind Cultivating Harsh sunrays Into a warm glow I fall,
For heavenly limbs Clothed, In Greens Oranges Yellows Browns And reds Harvesting Fresh Ripe Intimate Love I take a hike Walk in a park indulge in her colors. Days are short. Nights Like Chilling reminders We donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have forever. Beauty fades. Our time is a season We must let go Yet I fall, And hold her tight Like The last leaf before Winter.
When the harsh weather of winter begins to chill deep to the bone, the indoors, a fire on the hearth and cocoa warming your hands can set the scene for memories that never fade. Submit your most memorable Winter story or creative writing piece, we would love to feature it in our next issue.
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Send your writing submissions to: Render Creative Group attn: Ouachita High Country 801 Central Avenue, Suite 30 Hot Springs, AR 71901 or email info@rendercreativegroup.com
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