Rendez vous en France No.1 2012 by Rendezvous

VI VE LA FRAN CE N UM BER 1 2 012

le magazine

Lifestyle

Parlez-vous DESIGN?

Portrait

Edmund CAPON

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the CORK in CHAMPAGNE lifestyle I cover story I gourmet I accommodation | destination...

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IT’S BEEN SAID THAT CHAMPAGNE ‘IMPROVES THE VIEW’ (BY F. SCOTT

FITZGERALD,

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OF COURSE),

s we sign off on this issue of Rendez-vous en France — champagne flute in hand, of course — we also celebrate some long-anticipated changes. The 10 years of success and support enjoyed by our precedent magazine in Australia and New Zealand, Vive La France, has transitioned smoothly into a newlook magazine.

Rendez-vous en France is still brought to you by the creative team behind

Vive La France, the main difference being its stylish new look, now consistent across 30-plus Atout France titles around the globe. We continue to tailor content for our loyal Australian-New Zealand readership, and we continue to source the latest travel snippets from France. We welcome your feedback, so please continue to send it. In this issue of Rendez-vous en France, we take readers on a journey into

SO WE’VE TAKEN A GRAND VIEW OF DESIGN IN THIS ISSUE – HOTELS, BARS, STREETSCAPES, EVENTS AND EVEN TENTS.

contemporary design. Read about the hip ‘hidden’ kitchens of Paris, eco-aware stays in southern France, designer events throughout France, and more. Champagne asserts quite a presence in this issue. With the Aussie dollar at record highs, Australians have been indulging their penchant for the legendary tipple. Consumption has surged 26 per cent, reaching 3.7 million bottles sold annually, according to the Champagne Bureau (2010 figures). Per capita, we now rank among the top five consumers of champagne internationally. Read all about it in this issue, and visit our brand-new website at www.rendezvousenfrance.com to catch great deals and travel updates around the clock.

Salut! Patrick Benhamou

Director Atout France France Tourism Development Agency, Australia and New Zealand patrick.benhamou@atout-france.fr

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RENDEZVOUS EN FRANCE 2012 DIRECTOR OF PUBLICATIONS Christian Mantei EDITOR Stephanie Oley ART DIRECTOR Yolanda Koning

FEATURES EDITOR Persephone Nicholas PROOFREADER Rebecca Haddad COVER PHOTOGRAPHY Philippe Kerlo CONTRIBUTORS Ruby Boukabou, Vanessa Couchman Judith Elen, Sally Hammond, Natalie Hoy, Ella Lombardi, Persephone Nicholas, Carli Ratcliff, Susan Westwood Printed in China ATOUT FRANCE AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND France Tourism Development Agency Editorial, Production and Sales Team Sophie Almin, Claire Kaletka-Neil, Johanna Mayr, Marie Boyer and Charlotte Guilloteau L13, 25 Bligh Street Sydney NSW 2000 Australia T: +61 2 9231 5243 F:+ 61 2 9221 8682 www.rendezvousenfrance.com

L I F E S T Y L E

The culinary daring of Les Crayères

Bistro 39 Local hero

Alain Ducasse takes on Bistro Benôit

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Burgundy 57 Blaze of wine and roses

Delicious stays in Burgundy

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Bucket list 42 State of effervesSipping bubbly in ChampagneArdenne

Escape Weekender 20 Do you Saint-Tropez? 55 Champagne château Sensual stays on the Riviera

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Wineries 65 Aqua factor

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Culture 88 Into the light

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C’est chic 75 C’est Meurice!

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Reignite 102 Windows to the world

Marseille’s stunning cultural program for 2013

Languedoc Roussillon 93 South of France

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Urban 98 Slice of sunshine

Sustainability 107 Beyond the blue

Land of light and luxury

The enduring appeal of Montpellier

Jazz 100 Riviera rhythms Music and art in Antibes

Highlights for 2012

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Archipelago 112 France sur mer

Tasting France in New Caledonia

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Photos this spread: © Jean-Louis Chaix/Ville de Saint-Tropez

sainttropez? THE SEASIDE TOWN OF SAINT-TROPEZ CONTINUES TO ATTRACT THE GLITTERATI AND VISITORS KEEN TO SOAK UP THE SUN AND THE GLAMOUR. BY CARLI RATCLIFF

do you

Photo: Jean-Louis Chaix/Ville de Saint-Tropez

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Left: Bell tower and harbour of Saint-Tropez. Above left: Riva boats during the Riva Runabout Cup of July. Above right: Footpath along the limestone coast near Saint-Tropez.

ver since a 22-year-old Brigitte Bardot sunbathed naked on the sands of La Ponche beach in Roger Vadim’s 1956 film, And God Created Woman, the pretty town of Saint-Tropez has been a hot spot for the rich and famous. Its café-lined sandy beaches, the Quai Jean-Jaures and its super yachts, and the cobbled streets of the old town have long made Saint-Tropez a de rigueur-destination for the well heeled. Prior to Bardot and the beach set, Saint-Tropez was a haven for intellectuals and artists. The town attracted the likes of painter Paul Signac, who built a villa here and whose love for the area inspired others, including Pierre Bonnard, Henri Matisse and Raoul Dufy, to visit. They painted Saint-Tropez’s pretty fishing coves and the surrounding countryside. Today, their works can be found in the Musée de l’Annonciade, on Place Georges Grammont. Writers have also been drawn here. Colette purchased a home on the Bay of Canoubiers in 1925, so taken with the area she wrote, ‘Nothing is like this Gulf,

like its splendid surroundings, like its greenery… What a climate... It’s a miracle!’ Canoubiers, known by locals as ‘The Tropezians’ beach, takes its name from the hemp once grown here for the manufacture of fishing ropes and nets. Saint-Tropez started life as a fishing port, and visitors are reminded of this legacy in the pretty fishermen’s houses that line La Ponche. Legend has it that France’s most famous seafood dish, bouillabaisse, originated in Pointe de la Bouillabaisse, concocted by villagers from fish they couldn’t sell. The recipe moved along the coast to Marseille, the town that made the dish internationally famous, and came to claim it as its own. Restaurants throughout Saint-Tropez serve bouillabaisse, along with other regional Provençal specialties. Crayfish, barbecued local fish and hearty Daube de Boeuf are served at relaxed eateries including L’Auberge de la Mole (Route Nationale 98, 83310 La Mole) and L’Auberge des Maures (4 Rue Docteur Boutin, Siant Tropez). Rosé is the wine of choice: locals recommend a

chilled bottle of Château Barbeyrolles from the Sumeire family’s 12-hectare vineyard at the foot of the nearby village of Gassin.

CENTRAL STAYS As home to some of the most luxurious properties in France, hotels in Saint-Tropez are second to none. The fashionable Byblos has maintained a reputation for fine accommodation and service since opening its doors in 1967. Guests enjoy the spacious suites (some with a beautiful terrace), Sisley day spa and the newly renovated pool area. Byblos is the enduring choice for the international jet set, as is its famous nightclub, Les Caves du Roy, where champagne flows until morning. Les Caves bartenders are believed to serve more than 15,000 bottles of bubbles each season. The property also features Alain Ducasse’s Spoon restaurant, a must-visit destination for foodies. On the hill, the renowned Château Hotel de la Messardière enjoys sweeping views over the town and across the glittering

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Photo: Jean-Louis Chaix/Ville de Saint-Tropez

Clockwise from top: Sun-drenched specialties of Provence; counter-style bar at Byblos; outdoor heated pool at the Château Hotel de la Messardière.

SWISH STAYS NEARBY Hôtel Benkiraï was designed by Patrick Jouin, and features an excellent open-air restaurant. www.hotel-benkirai.com The staff at La Réserve de Ramatuelle take pampering very seriously. Visitors can take a wellness program that includes relaxing, detoxifying and rejuvenating treatments, in addition to expert fitness guidance. Named Best New Hotel, 2011 at Wallpaper magazine’s Design Awards, the hilltop property includes a 1000-squaremeter spa, 20 rooms, eight suites and 11 exclusive villas. www.lareserve.ch Kube Hotel, complete with a seaside garden and rooftop bars featuring the world’s hottest DJs, is popular for visitors set on

Photo: Hotel Byblos

Photo:: Château Hotel de la Messardiere.

Mediterranean. The property’s sprawling gardens and luxurious light-filled suites, combined with warm, faultless service, attract visitors from all over the world. www.messardiere.com The luxurious Hotel de Paris, currently in the final stages of a grand overhaul, is due to reopen in summer 2012. www.hoteldeparis-sainttropez.com Hotel Sezz is renowned for its understated design by Christophe Pillet (a protégé of Philippe Starck). Complete with Dom Perignon champagne bar, Colette restaurant and a Payot day spa, it’s a place where guests can enjoy fine dining and serious pampering. www.hotelsezz-sainttropez. com/uk

partying. A mere 5-minute drive from the centre of town, it has the feel of a seaside retreat. www.kubehotel.com

EVENTS With its legendary status as a French Riviera destination, Saint-Tropez attracts celebrities, people-watchers and culturati alike, offering its visitors a diverse calendar of year-round events. The harbour is host to several famous nautical events, from the Giraglia Rolex Cup in June – when a flotilla of graceful yachts sets sail from Saint-Tropez to Genoa – to the Les Voiles yacht races of late September, when modern and traditional vessels participate in a series of races.

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Both cup events attract crews and spectators from around the world. Tradition and culture also play a role in the city’s events calendar. From 16 – 18 May each year, Tropezians celebrate their patron saint in a 450-year-old festival, Les Bravades. In 2012, visitors will also notice some exotic influences, as the city celebrates the Year of India with fashion parades, art exhibitions, a film festival and more. Art and music takes the stage throughout the year. Music festivals include the classical music extravaganza Les Nuits du Château de la Moutte, held in mid-July, and two piano festivals: Spring Music Festival in April, and Piano Festival in November.

Tropez is the International Polo Cup and the Pan Dei Trophy of Golf, held each October. No matter what time of year you visit, Place des Lices, behind the Quai Jean Jaures, hosts the weekly markets (Tuesday and Saturday), where you’ll find locals and visitors alike browsing. Shopping baskets full and stalls packed away, visitors retire for a quayside lunch, and local gentlemen begin a round of boules in the afternoon sun.

›› FURTHER INFORMATION Saint-Tropez Tourisme www.ot-saint-tropez.com

Clockwise from main image: Classical yachts participating in the Les Voiles races; traditional fishing boats; Saint-Tropez port area.

Photos this page: Jean-Louis Chaix/Ville de Saint-Tropez 24

As one would imagine, film in SaintTropez embraces all things Brigitte Bardot, but there are some more contemporary offerings, too. For example, each October the town hosts the Australian and New Zealand Film Festival. An unusual – but spectacular – highlight of the city’s annual agenda is the Festival Harley Davidson in May. Thousands of Harley owners and admirers find each other and share their passion during this festival. The event ends with a parade of Harleys, in countless styles and colours, roaring through the streets of Saint-Tropez. A similar – but somewhat more upmarket – event is held by Porsche every October. Taking the year to a close in Saint-

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Chefs at the inaugural Fête de la Gastronomie of 2011.

Vaulted ceiling in one of the cottages at Domaine de Monteils.

News

Passport

OUR PICK OF FRENCH TRAVEL TIPS IN 2012

Feast on this! Good food is integral to French culture, and it’s also in a state of flux – what with the pan-Asian influences and the global comings and goings of the country’s greatest chefs. So how to reignite the public’s passion for fine dining? Just get ‘em all out in the open, eating, drinking and talking about food — naturellement! Such is the premise of Fête de la Gastronomie, which returns for its second year this September 22 – 25. Events will be hosted across France, and range from grand public picnics to culinary workshops and tours. Specials will also abound,

from accommodation packages to deals on gourmet products. Visit the website to find a scrumptious event anywhere in France. www.fete-gastronomie.fr/en/events

Hotel

Hostellerie Bérard A medieval-era village that must have inspired countless painters, La Cadière d’Azur is perched on a pretty hilltop just 30 minutes from Marseille. Immerse yourself in Provençal living here, admiring the town’s flower-filled balconies, ancient ramparts and quaint cafés.

Where to stay the night? Easy – the delightful 40-room Hostellerie Bérard offers welcoming service and guest suites that far exceed its threestar ranking. Chef René Bérard and his son, Jean-François, both Michelin-starred chefs, serve delicate Provençal-

Romance

Domaine de Monteils Private luxury cottages with their own sun-drenched terrace? Tick. Dreamy views over the surrounding Provençal hills? Tick. Rustic limestone exteriors, with all-new designer décor, kitchens,

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Photo: Hostellerie Bérard

Gourmet

bathrooms and electronics? Tick, tick and tick again. A former wine-producing château nestled in the hills between Montpellier and Nîmes, Domaine de Monteils opened in 2011 after extensive refurbishment. Apart from its lofty views, the 5-hectare property encompasses gnarled old fruit trees and wisteria vines. Each of the self-contained cottages has its own private spa, and guests are free to use the property’s swimming pool. Of course, romantics will rejoice in a final feature of the property: all accommodation is for couples only, so you are practically guaranteed a serene and intimate stay. www.domainemonteils.com

AromaSpa treatment at Hostellerie Bérard.

Photo: Studio Harcourt Paris

Guests also enjoy the services of a personal butler and can make use of the hotel’s private beach and jetty. There’s also a wellbeing oasis, U Spa Barrière, and several luxury restaurants, bars and boutiques. www.lucienbarriere.com/en

Ski

Montana Plein Sud Self-contained accommodation makes great sense for visitors planning a longer stay, and at the upscale ski resort of Val

Thorens, you can now selfcater in style. The five-star Village Montana Residence Plein Sud comprises 37 spacious apartments furnished in contemporary chalet chic, each with their evocative use of stone, wood paneling, fur throws and thick wool carpets. The residence also offers various hotel-style facilities, such as indoor heated pool, spa, sauna, ski lockers and various family-friendly services, such as rental cots and other equipment for baby. Guests also get direct access to the Plein Sud chair lift, which connects to the countless runs of the Les 3 Vallées ski area. www.village-montana.com

Photo: Village Montana

Rooftop swimming and sweeping views at Hôtel Majestic Barrière.

inspired cuisine in the hotel restaurant. You can even take home some of their tips by joining the cooking classes or wine tastings. If relaxing is more your thing, book in some pampering at their AromaSpa. www.hotel-berard.com

Waterfront Hôtel Majestic Barrière

Photo: Village Montana

The palatial Hôtel Majestic Barrière, on the waterfront at Cannes, offers a stunning new penthouse on the sixth floor of its new annex: the Christian Dior Suite, inspired by the legendary couturier’s most influential designs of the 1940s. At a generous 450 square metres, the two-bedroom suite features Chevron hardwood floors, masses of luxe silk and velvet furnishings throughout, and its own elegant dining room and lounge — not to mention sweeping views over the French Riviera.

Terrace overlooking the outdoor heated pool at Montana Plein Sud.

Suite at Montana Plein Sud.

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What we’re READING THESE JUST-RELEASED TITLES EACH SHED A DIFFERENT LIGHT ON FRANCE, WHETHER IT’S THE TRAVAILS OF AN EXPAT OR COOKING TO IMPRESS.

Secrets of a Lazy French Cook, by Marie-Morgane Le Moël. Harper Collins, RRP $36.99. For French journalist Marie-Morgane Le Moël, life as a foreign correspondent in Australia for broadsheet Le Monde presents a steep learning curve. Written in an easy, conversational style, this book is both an amusing insight into Australian press antics, and a memoir of Le Moël’s French childhood. A smattering of simple French recipes completes the experience. Paris in Love, by Eloisa James, Harper Collins, RRP $34.99. Paris in Love chronicles one joyful year in which a woman takes a break from her

job, following some life-changing events, and escapes to romantic Paris with her husband and two teenage children in tow. An accomplished romance novelist, James has written a book brimming with Parisian sights, sounds and flavours. Cadel Evans: The Tour – Cadel takes us behind the scenes of the Tour de France, by Cadel Evans with Rupert Guinness, Hardie Grant books, RRP $45 hardback. From Australia’s first Tour de France winner, Cadel Evans, comes an insider’s account of the 2011 Tour. Evans speaks with acclaimed sports journalist Rupert Guinness to take us through the year-long preparation process, and describes how

the team worked together to overcome challenges such as injury, illness, accidents and exhaustion. L’Esprit Bistrot: Les Meilleures Recettes de Benoît, by Alain Ducasse, Alain Ducasse Edition, RRP €10 (French only). This notebook-inspired tome features just 25 of the most popular recipes at Benoît, a venerable Parisian bistro that opened in 1912 before joining the Ducasse empire in 2005. As well as learning to prepare bistro classics, such as pâté en croûte and profiteroles, readers are treated to the master chef’s joyous insights into food and cooking.

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This page: The new spate of hidden kitchens in Paris are characterised by intimacy and romance.

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Photos this page: Shutterstock

club

EVER A HOTPOT OF NEW CULINARY IDEAS, PARIS IS WITNESSING A GROWING TREND IN ‘HIDDEN’ KITCHENS THAT WINE AND DINE INTIMATE GROUPS OF STRANGERS. ELLA LOMBARDI MEETS THE FOLK BEHIND THE FEASTS. We’re standing in a dimly lit alleyway in the 5th arrondissement, looking for a sign, wondering if this is where we are meant to be. The place we’re seeking is a private supper club – one of a handful of secret dining experiences taking place in private Parisian apartments and unmarked buildings around the city. Clandestine dining has been gathering momentum in the City of Lights for the past few years, as adventurous souls look for something to spice up their dining lives while experiencing a more private side of Paris. You might find yourself mingling with

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guests such as a Moulin Rouge dancer, a French philosophy student or a UK surgeon, as we did on the night we visited one hidden kitchen, New Friends Table. Our hostess, Sara, delights in curating the perfect dinner party grouping for a maximum of 10 guests. She ushers each guest warmly into a world of flickering candlelight and exquisite table settings, at one of a rotating selection of private Parisian apartments. New Friends Table is also about the people, says Sara, whose not-for-profit €100-per head ($A127) feasts feature seven to 13-course dinners made from seasonal and organic produce, and are served with

free-flowing wine. Guests secure a booking by introducing themselves online with a detailed bio. If accepted, they’ll receive directions to dinner via email. ‘I don’t want to seat similar age groups or gatherings of friends. It’s about meeting complete strangers that may enrich your life through conversation.’ Belgian-born artist Claude Cabri, who has called Paris home for more than 20 years, started offering lunches in her loft because she’s always enjoyed entertaining. Her love of food is also evident when she speaks of taking days to prepare a single dish for a clientele comprising mostly French

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All images this page: Lunch in the Loft, including multi-tiered sandwich, table setting, and host, Claude Cabri.

ADDRESS BOOK Wine and dine like a local in these unique hidden Paris dining spots. newfriendstable.blogspot.com www.lunchintheloft.com www.romantic-secret-dinner.com www.jim-haynes.com www.veryswell.com www.soulkitchensupperclub.com www.voulezvousdiners.com

locals, who participate on a first come, first served online booking system. At one lunch, she recalls fondly, Cabri hosted her former art professor, his wife, a psychologist friend, a French journalist and photographer, a cooking teacher and a French spice merchant. ‘I don’t hold any responsibility for matching guests. I put them all together and hope for the best,’ she says. Soon to release her second cookbook of recipes from those lunches, Cabri continues to flex her culinary muscles since locating a shop space for 12 months. Here, diners can drop by on a no-reservations basis.

Just above the picturesque Place du Tertre in Montmartre rests the newest – and tiniest – secret dining room. With windows flung open to a view of the Basilique du Sacré Coeur, Frenchman Julien and his English-born partner Andrew have transformed their elegantly decorated apartment into a romantic French restaurant just for two. Fresh roses fill the intimate space. The silver cutlery is polished, crystal is sparkling and the 19th century Minton china is gleaming while a painstakingly sourced and selected menu is being prepared for tonight’s special occasion. After 20 years serving royalty, such as Princess Diana, as well as high society

– he worked as a personal butler to Mrs Thatcher – Andrew knows a thing or two about high-end entertaining. ‘For me, it’s all about the service. I love a special occasion,’ he says of the dinners a deux that start at €500 (A$634) for a sixcourse feast. With only one dinner spot available each week, this tucked-away treasure is booked solidly by couples seeking a unique and intimate Parisian moment. ‘We’ve already witnessed our first marriage proposal,’ confides Andrew. ‘A couple from New York. He was so nervous, but it was so romantic we ended up sharing a tear with them when she said yes.’

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H I S T O R Y

A N D

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P O R T R A I T Photos by Verjus

Verjus, clockwise from top: Organic and boutique wines; Punters squeeze into the tiny 12-seat bar; Subtle signage out front.

ADDRESS BOOK Verjus — 47 rue de Montpensier, 75001 Paris. T: +33 1 42 97 54 40 Frenchie — 5 rue du Nil, 75002 Paris. T: +33 1 40 39 96 19 Aux Deux Amis — 45 rue Oberkampf, 75011 Paris. T: +33 1 58 30 38 13

Small plates, big FLAVOURS

Au Passage — 1bis passage de SaintSebastien, 75011 Paris. T: +33 1 43 55 07 52

MEET THE CHEFS CHANGING THE CULINARY LANDSCAPE OF PARIS, AS THE CITY EMBRACES A NEW WAY TO WINE AND DINE WITH ORGANIC, SEASONAL AND DAINTILY PROPORTIONED FARE. BY ELLA LOMBARDI Ducking our heads at the door, we descend down into a blink-and-you’d-missit bar in Paris’ premiere arrondissement. There’s ambient lighting, soft clinking of glasses and a happy hum from the smartly dressed crowd. It seats only 12, but Verjus is the latest addition to the wine bar scene sweeping the city. Offering an alternative to Paris’ reser-

vations-only restaurants and designer bistros, this new generation of chefs creates robust flavours in small seasonal plates for sharing. They’re also big believers in ‘natural’ or organic wines. Chef Braden Perkins’ golden nuggets of buttermilk chicken are the talk of the town, and there are several other tempting small dishes on the ever-changing menu – including celeriac dumplings with sesame,

chilli and black vinegar. Perkins and partner Laura Adrian are stars of their own recently retired ‘hidden kitchen’ (see previous story). Here, for five years, the Seattle-born duo cooked dinners for intimate groups in their Paris flat, before opening their own ‘bar a vins’ downstairs and restaurant upstairs. ‘We wanted people to come, enjoy a glass of wine, have something small to eat

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To get the best view of the Eiffel Tower in Paris, don’t go out; stay in.

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WATCH THIS SPACE This Paris spring, the team behind Bistro Volnay opened their sexy, Prohibition Era-style bar, Les Jalles. Dine at the seriously upmarket restaurant downstairs, or take the Art Deco staircase up to a fantasy 1920s world. The sultry singers, plush old-world décor and a relaxed but resolutely upmarket vibe make for a delicious and decadent night out. www.lesjalles.fr

Frenchie, clockwise from top: Intimate tables cram the rustic interior; Glimpse of neighbouring restaurants across the cobbled alleyway; The pedestrian and cycle-friendly laneway entrance.

and be relaxed without having to make a reservation, which is unusual in France,’ says Adrian. We’ve been told not to miss the retrofabulous Aux Deux Amis in the lively Oberkampf neighbourhood, where we squeeze in at the formica and copper-topped bar. Off the beaten tourist-track, the ‘50s interior and creative crowd make it an evening hot spot. The good-humoured bar staff dish up a nonstop flow of Spanishinspired and wallet-friendly plates. Next, we head for the more low-key Frenchie, an offshoot of Gregory Marchand’s popular restaurant of the same name across

the cobbled alleyway. Carefully selected organic wines here match a menu that includes braised pig’s head with granny smith apples and sweet onions – a crowd favourite, I’m told. We’re almost ready to call it a night, but there’s one more must-try destination on our list. Paris food critic and author, Alexander Lobrano, describes Au Passage as: ‘A perfect example of the recent trends in Paris – relaxed and affordable.’ The décor in this former worker’s bistro is laid-back, with low-slung leather chairs and simple wooden tables, and

filled by a chilled-out local crowd. Leave the wine choices to the staff, who are passionate about the drops offered. We’re tempted to keep the evening going, with a visit to the new über-exclusive David Lynch-designed nightclub, Silencio. We can’t; we’re done. We waddle off our stools and into the night. Très contente.

›› FURTHER INFORMATION www.thepariskitchen.com

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Photo: © Pierre Manneta

Photo: © C Sarramon

Photo: © C.Sarramon

BENOÎT PARIS

20 rue St-Martin, 4e, Marais, Paris, 75004 www.alain-ducasse.com/en/restaurant/benoit Member Châteaux & Hôtels Collection www.chateauxhotels.com Left: Benoît’s famed garlic snails in butter. Top and centre: The old-world interior at Benoît.

Local HERO CELEBRATING 100 YEARS OF DELECTABLE SERVICE IN 2012, THE VENERABLE BENOÎT PARIS IS THE CONSUMMATE PARISIAN BISTRO.

short stroll from Île SaintLouis, in a corner of Paris befitting a film scene, lies the legendary bistro Benoît. Its double French-door entrance opens to a softly lit interior, all brass fittings and etched-glass panels, suggesting visitors will take a culinary trip back in time. But its owner, the inimitable Alain Ducasse, has created a somewhat more nuanced offering.

The Ducasse menu salutes the heritage of bistro cuisine, while drawing on modern logistics to enhance the service by sourcing the best produce from around France daily. Benoît had been managed by the Petit family for three generations since opening in 1912, enjoying a reputation for its superb meat dishes. Ducasse recreates these earthy flavours using superb seasonal fare. The grilled sole in buttery nantua

crayfish sauce is highly recommended, as is the house cassoulet of white haricot beans, and, for dessert, the profiteroles Benoît. Keeping things friendly and professional on the customer front is Ducasse’s hand-picked team, including maître d Eric Bonneau — a face of the bistro even before Ducasse’s management took over in 2005 — and sommelier Kevin Quinsenac. Ducasse’s global restaurant empire is known for its haute cuisine and innovative dining experiences. So it may come as a surprise to learn the multi award-winning chef is devoted to home-style fare. ‘It is this diversity that makes French cuisine unique,’ he explains. The bistro is celebrating its 100th birthday throughout 2012, and releasing a centenary-edition cookbook featuring just 25 select recipes. To learn more about Ducasse’s offerings, download the Alain Ducasse app for iPhone or iPad, or check into Facebook.

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carry this! here,

O MANY ACCESSORIES, SO LITTLE TIME. WHAT’S A STYLE-CONSCIOUS PARISIENNE TO DO? WHY — CHOOSE A DIFFERENT LOOK THROUGOUT THE WEEK, OF COURSE.

If the autumn/winter 2013 Paris collections were anything to go by, baroque statement pieces and vivid colours are back in a big way. According to Shannyn Alexene, founder of vintage couture boutique Parisian Street Society, both vintage and contemporary styles offer much to choose from. ‘In France, vintage is just as popular as current fashion. Walking the streets of Paris on my latest trip, nearly every girl was carrying a Chanel handbag, both vintage and new,’ she recalls. Here’s her pick of accessories to wear, seven days of the week.

Two weekend looks from Dior: (left) platform open bootie in pink python and patent calfskin, and (right) Diorissimo small flat pouch in violine smooth calfskin.

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Low-key and ladylike Early through mid-week ‘Keep it simple, with pieces like a vintage Chanel lambskin black quilted tote. They’re perfect for holding a little extra luggage, such as those early-week gym sessions,’ suggests Alexene.

Style chameleon Thursdays and Fridays ‘Think of pieces that go with office wear and take you from a day to evening look, such as a classic Chanel bag or standout accessory. Try an ‘80s Yves Saint Laurent matte gold bracelet, or a Hanna Bernhard Baroque cross necklace.’

In diva mode Saturday night ‘Go all out on the style front on Saturday night. Exotic looks like animal prints or tribal designs work well, as well as long earrings like Chanel gold drop earrings.’

For the promenade Sunny Sundays ‘On Sundays, Paris goes to the markets in the morning, sits down to lunch at midday and does a spot of shopping before heading home early. Think natural fibres and colours, like a ‘70s Hermès bag, ‘70s Jean Patou sunglasses and Chanel ball-andchain necklace.’

Right: Miss Dior bag in tangerine lambskin. Below: Sunday strolling in Louboutin Decoupata heels.

STOCKISTS Dior (02) 9695-4800 Lancôme (03) 8680 0000 Louboutin (02) 8203 0902 Louis Vuitton 1300 883 880

Clockwise from centre right: Louis Vuitton Sobe clutch in Epi leather for a day-to-night transition; Lancôme Teint Idole foundation, a long-wearing and shine-free look for long days at work; Splash out on Sundays in Dior acetate sunglasses with red front and havana temples; Louboutin’s Sweet Charity bag; Wear Dior Vernis nail polish for a midweek burst of colour.

CLASSIC CHARM Parisian Street Society founder, Shannyn Alexene, recently turned 10 years of consecutive buyer’s trips to Paris into an impressive vault of vintage French couture pieces. She opened her boutique in Melbourne in 2011. Browse the collection at www.parisianstreetsociety.com.au

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effer ves cence state of

Photo: F Scheplitz

With an output of millions of bottles annually, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s said that a bottle of champagne pops every two seconds somewhere in the world.

We all know the story of the starstruck monk Dom PĂŠrignon, dashing 42

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FROM SAMPLING FINE CHAMPAGNES TO DRINKING IN THE IDYLLIC SCENERY, THERE ARE DOZENS OF THINGS YOU SIMPLY MUST EXPERIENCE WHEN YOU VISIT THE ENCHANTED LAND OF CHAMPAGNEARDENnE. BY SALLY HAMMOND

icture a land as blank as a clean sheet of paper, then sketch in a river or two. The one curving gently in the north will be the Meuse. The other, beginning far south, lazily heading towards the Seine, will be the Marne. Add a sizeable hilly area — the Ardenne Massif — to the north, and cover it with shady forests. Colour the surrounding land green and fertile. Put chalk in the subsoil to make it ideal for growing vines. Layer limestone underneath for a place to safely store the treasures the land will produce. This was the beginning. People came. First the Gauls, then the Romans, and presently Clovis I, King of the Francs and baptised a Christian in 498 AD. His royal stamp on Reims set the scene for a succession of monarchs and coronations on the site of what is now the awesome Reims Cathedral. Two thousand years of history and mysteries have been acted out here. Tour guides point out the ‘smile of Reims’ – one particular angel among a crowd of angels and other statues at the entrance to the immense cathedral. Only 60 buildings in the city remained undamaged after World War One. Still she smiles after all that, they say. The ancient trading city of Troyes, further south, was once the epicentre of textile marketing from the 12th to 14th centuries. Today it’s still about fashion. As Europe’s largest centre for factory outlets, the city draws shoppers to McArthurGlen, Marques Avenue, Lacoste, Petit Bateau and more. However, in this region everything ultimately relates to champagne. Call it a coincidence, but even Troyes’ town centre is shaped like a champagne cork!

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to his superior after experiencing the miracle of champagne… MAGAZINE

Photo: F Scheplitz

Photo: Perching Bar

Photo: Guy Didier

Clockwise from above: Swing chairs at Perching bar; Famous champagne houses line the Avenue de Champagne in Épernay; Picking grapes at Les Riceys.

KING OF WINES

VISITING THE CAVES

We all know the story of the starstruck monk Dom Pérignon, dashing to his superior after experiencing the miracle of sparkling champagne for the first time, back in the 17th-century. Luckily for us, he didn’t pronounce it a mistake and keep it quiet. Instead, this miracle became the ‘king of wines’, affecting millions around the world in the same way it had done the old monk. Lovely Épernay, snuggled among the vineyards, is the unassuming capital of the champagne producers. It is here, especially on the Avenue de Champagne, dubbed the world’s most drinkable street, that champagne houses as grand as châteaux – their names reading like a fine restaurant’s wine list – are guarded by tall iron gates. The dynasties behind these major brands have a practically regal heritage.

But no matter how important the streets appear, much, much more is going on far below in the 100 kilometres of tunnels where millions of bottles slumber. Take a tour: see the meticulous process, the hands-on work of riddling and disgorging, the superior skills of those who bring the fruit of each vintage to its completion. Do this, and your next glass of champagne will taste even finer. Each champagne house offers something different. In Reims, Mumm, the region’s third-largest producer with an output of eight million bottles annually, has a charming consecrated chapel in the grounds. In 1964, Japanese painter Léonard Foujita was hired by the owners to create a Romanesque-style chapel. He supervised everything: plans, frescoes, stained glass, sculptures. It was designated an historic monument in 1992.

The imposing gates of the regal Domaine Pommery estate in Reims only hint at what’s in store. The extensive park is home to the Michelin-starred Les Crayères restaurant (see related story), and guards many kilometres of tunnels carved from chalk pits. A little different, C-Comme Champagne in Epernay operates more like a gallery of the region’s finest, offering around 400 champagnes from 52 growers. Visitors may buy at grower prices, or simply relax in the bar to sip while sampling apéritif plates. www.c-comme.fr Little wonder that, in this magical region, even more surprises await. Like Perching Bar, an avant-garde bar perched among the treetops in Montagne de Reims. Approached by an elevated boardwalk, the room offers suspended chairs (even hanging ice buckets) and outdoor decks to enjoy the magnificent view — and the wines, of course! www.perchingbar.eu

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Photo: Jean-Christophe Hanche

Photo: Les Crayeres Photo: Ch. Manquillet

Clockwise from top left: Philippe Mille, chef of Les Crayères; Reims Cathedral is bathed in a stained glass-window design; Al fresco tasting session.

FURTHER INFORMATION Champagne-Ardenne Tourist Board www.tourisme-champagne-ardenne.com

Joseph Perrier’s cellars in Chalonsen-Champagne have been created from ancient Gallo-Roman chalk quarries, easily approached as they were tunnelled into the cliffsides 2000 years ago by the Romans. Sharp-eyed visitors will see traces of the past inscribed in the soft white surface of the walls. By contrast, Mercier Cellars in Épernay takes groups down to the caves in a panoramic lift, complete with a diorama of the champagne-making process. A small train then whisks you off on a tour of the many kilometres of stunningly carved and decorated tunnels.

FEAST ON THIS And while there may be millions of miracles sleeping underground, awaiting their turn to join a celebration, ChampagneArdenne has one last trick to play. The tables of the region’s Michelin-starred res-

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taurants are of such calibre that many are seduced into visiting at least one – if not all – of them, as each offers a special and sublime temptation. L’assiette Champenoise in Tinqueux is a light and airy contemporary restaurant near Reims where the tables create the ideal stage for Chef Arnaud Lallement’s fine food to star. Son of the chef who previously saw this restaurant gain one Michelin star, in 2005 he won and still retains a coveted second star. His talent has been richly recognised with many awards, and his passion shines on every plate. www.assiettechampenoise.com Charles de Gaulle loved the mythical village of Colombey-les-Deux-Eglises, and chose it for his country hideaway and final resting place. Chef Jean-Baptiste Natali, at the town’s one Michelin-starred Restaurant Natali, is passionate about local produce, but also has the freshest fish whisked across the country to his kitchen.

While the dining room is elegant, a tiny table overlooking the kitchen is a truly romantic and memorable spot to dine. www.hostellerielamontagne.com Not far from Epernay, La Briqueterie is a peaceful one Michelin-star hostellerie-restaurant built, as the name suggests, on the former site of a brickworks. It’s an ideal place to escape and relax, whether in the elegantly welcoming dining room or on the terrace in warmer weather. Chef Michael Nizzero’s menus beautifully display his talents, which have been honed at several Michelin-starred restaurants around the world. www.labriqueterie.fr/ en/restaurant.html In France, when introduced, people exclaim, ‘enchanté!’ When you meet Champagne-Ardenne, no doubt you will say the same. Quite simply, prepare to be enchanted.

www.chateauxhotels.com

Photo: Christoflevase © Marcade Event/Deepix

seeing stars FROM RAP STARS TO ROYALTY AND THE ROLLING STONES, CHAMPAGNE HAS BEEN THE CELEBRATORY TIPPLE OF CHOICE FOR THE RICH AND FAMOUS. BY SALLY HAMMOND Prince Albert II and Princess Charlene of Monaco celebrate their July 2011 nuptials.

hampagne gives you the impression it is Sunday, and that better days are coming,’ said ‘50s Hollywood singer-actress Marlene Dietrich, when throwing a Dom Pérignon Christmas Eve party for three of her closest friends. At that rate, Marilyn Monroe must have had a lifetime of Sundays, waking each morning to a glass of Piper Heidsieck, (and famously reported to opening 150 bottles of it to fill her bathtub). That gives an entirely

new spin on the term ‘filthy rich’. In reality, most of us will never be rich or famous, but when good luck comes or there is something to celebrate, the impulse is to reach for the flutes and some fine French champagne. But spare a thought for those who are privileged with status, fame and power. What do they do? Why, pop those corks, too! Although they might be just a little more lavish with the contents. One of the first celebrities to indulge in a glass of bubbly was King Charles II of England. From his court’s example, European aristocracy was soon won over.

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Once Dom Pérignon’s sparkling wines reached the court of Louis XIV, it became de rigueur for artists such as Manet, Picasso, Cézanne, Chagall and Toulouse-Lautrec to feature bottles in dining scenes. During the Napoleonic Wars, smart businesswoman Madame Clicquot Ponsardin established her wine in royal courts throughout Europe, including Imperial Russia. By the time of her death in 1866, Veuve Clicquot was in every grand house of Europe, and now holds Queen Elizabeth II’s royal warrant. Moët & Chandon, one of the oldest champagne producers, has Queen

Photo: ÂŠ Maximâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s de Paris

Champagne tower, as shown in the book Champagne and chandeliers (see end box).

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Photos: SDP Media

Clockwise from top left: Alex Dimitriades; Miss Australia 2011, Scherri-Lee Biggs; Matt Moran and his wife, Sarah Hopkins; Erika Packer and guest, all photographed at the La Maison G.H. Mumm marquee during the 2011 Melbourne Cup.

But champagne has more adoring fans Elizabeth II’s royal approval too, although than just the rich and powerful. Hollywood when Charles married Diana, champagne royalty also quickly fell for champagne, house Pol Roger presented him with a case of their 1947 vintage, described as a adopting Bette Davis’s mantra that, ‘There ‘Churchill of a wine,’ to toast their future. comes a time in every woman’s life when The tradition continued some 25 years later, the only thing that helps is a glass of chamwhen Prince Charles and his second bride, pagne’. The suave, smooth-talking James Bond Camilla, raised glasses filled with Pol Roger films had Sean Connery plying the ladies champagne. At the Danish royal nuptials of with Dom Pérignon in Dr No, progressing to 2004, newlyweds Crown Prince Frederik Taittinger in his next film, and finally reverand Crown Princess Mary sipped a spe- ting back to Dom Pérignon. Roger Moore’s cially created cuvée from the house of Bond favoured Bollinger, which became the ‘champagne of James Bond’ in every 007 Champagne Mercier. film since. Madame de Pompadour, Louis XV’s TV also succumbed to the power of chief mistress (whose left breast is said bubbles. In 1992, Absolutely Fabulous hit to have inspired the classical coupe once used for quaffing champagne) asserted that the screens, with Jennifer Saunders and Joanna Lumley swigging champagne (Bolly ‘Champagne is the only wine that leaves a woman beautiful after drinking it’. Indeed, for Patsy, Veuve for the free media list and Moët for Eddy), mirroring newer marFrench men are still said to appreciate the ket demographics. Later in the series, they roses it puts in ladies’ cheeks.

become ‘Bolly bolsheviks’, with a designated champagne fridge – Bolly on one side, Veuve on the other. Music legends the Rolling Stones dubbed it as a thirst-quencher in Champagne and Reefer but saxophonist Bobby Keys went one step further, being kicked off the 1973 tour for filling his bath with Dom Pérignon. Nothing wrong with that, you say? He drank most of it anyway! The problem was he didn’t pick up the tab. After champion Argentinian motorracing hero Fangio was first doused with frothing Moët in the 1950s, people realised here was yet another use for champagne. Today, Bollinger sponsors England Rugby, Moët is a global backer of Formula One, and G.H. Mumm appears at Melbourne’s Spring Racing Carnival and the Melbourne Cup.

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Photo: © Arbon Publishing

Book covers: Great, grand and fabulous champagnes, by Gubler and Powell; and Champagne and chandeliers, by O’Shea.

Above: Various spreads from Great, grand and fabulous champagnes, by Fritz Gubler and Jayne Powell.

CHAMPAGNE: BETWEEN THE COVERS Two wonderful full-colour books will shed more light on the inextricable links between champagne and glamour. Great, grand and famous champagnes, by Fritz Gubler and Jayne Powell (Arbon Publishing, 2010).

Personalised bottles of PerrierJouët champagne at the Monaco wedding of 2011.

Full-colour historical tome detailing champagne’s journey into popular

Sure, champagne has been there for the good times. What about when death or danger looms? Napoleon Bonaparte surely tasted his fair share of all of these, famously declaring: ‘Champagne! In victory one deserves it; in defeat one needs it.’ His wife, Josephine, liked her champagne too, shocking her husband with the costs of her indulgence. One wouldn’t think of champagne as the ideal wake accompaniment either. But when Edward VII died in 1910, seven European kings attended his funeral,

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toasting him with an 1892 magnum of Pol Roger. In modern times, celebrity approval doesn’t hurt sales or image. Each champagne house has a loyal celebrity fan-base; some with commercial arrangements. Moët has contracted actress Scarlett Johannson as their ‘face’, while G.H. Mumm aligns itself with Michelin-starred chefs such as Jean-Pierre Vigato, Paul Bocuse and Michel Sarran. But of course Bollinger has Bond, James Bond.

culture, from visual arts to the media and more. RRP $79.95. Champagne and chandeliers – grand dining celebrations, by Bernadette O’Shea (Hardie Grant, 2009). Deluxe coffee-table book in full colour, recounting 35 definitive celebrations involving champagne, with guests of honour ranging from Winston Churchill to The Beatles. RRP $120.

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Your dream at HOSPES helps a child reach his own. For each booking made on www.hospes.com Hospes gives 1â&#x201A;Ź to SOS Children's Villages. MAGAZINE

www.hospes.com 53

Photos: © Château Les Crayères

Champagne CHÂTEAU BOOK IN A SPARKLING WEEKEND IN REIMS, THE CAPITAL OF CHAMPAGNEARDENNE, WITH A VISIT TO LES CRAYÈRES. BY CARLI RATCLIFF

e have visited 15 champagne houses and tasted at least 15 champagnes over the past few days,’ observes my colleague, Shu Qiao, food and wine correspondent for National Geographic China. Indeed, we have tasted our way across ChampagneArdenne, sampling the region’s finest cuisine and wines. ‘The very best glass, and the very best service is right here,’ Qiao smiles, clinking my glass. Les Crayères in Reims is a château named after the local crayères (chalk pits) — cool, underground natural cellars where wine magically becomes the world’s finest champagne. The château, set among

7 hectares of private formal gardens, was built by the Marquis and Marquise de Polignac of Champagne Pommery in 1904. Now owned by the Gardinier family, it remains one of Champagne’s finest private estates. The grand dining room of Les Crayères houses Le Parc restaurant, with Philippe Mille as head chef. Mille, a protégé of three-Michelin starred chef, Yannick Alléno, is a rising star. Having spent six years under Alléno at Le Meurice, Paris, the 38-year-old chef arrived at Les Crayères in January 2010. He recently earned his second Michelin star, which he credits to his philosophy of ‘chef’s cuisine’: ‘Real food from ingredients grown

Top: The grand dining room at Les Crayères. Above: the château is set within a 7-hectare formal garden.

by local producers,’ he explains. Mille says his style of food is true to French culinary traditions. ‘We reference the traditions of Auguste Escoffier, but it is contemporary and ever-evolving,’ he says. As a member of the Relais & Châteaux association, Les Crayères attracts visitors with its grand and elegant interiors, its proximity to the major champagne houses and, of course, its exciting and refined cuisine.

›› FURTHER INFORMATION T: +33 3 26 24 90 00 W: www.lescrayeres.com

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Photos: Alain Doire/Bourgogne Tourisme

Enjoying a sunset apéritif in Dijon, the historic capital of Burgundy. Inset: Wine bar in Beaune.

Blaze of WINE and roses BURGUNDY DELIVERS IN SPADES IF YOU’RE AFTER A DESTINATION THAT COMBINES GREAT WINES, EXCEPTIONAL CUISINE, RICH HISTORY, ARCHITECTURAL GEMS AND UNSPOILT COUNTRYSIDE. BY VANESSA COUCHMAN Think Burgundy, think world-class wines: the fruit of centuries of expertise combined with the region’s unique soil and climate. From the flinty whites of Chablis to the opulent reds of the Côte de Nuits, and Maconnais, a series of wine routes offers the chance to taste countless vinous treasures.

As befits a great wine area, Burgundy is also famed for its outstanding cuisine. The Burgundians invented classic dishes such as boeuf bourguignon and coq au vin, marrying great wines with first-rate ingredients. Relish local specialities based on blackcurrants, goat’s cheese, snails, Dijon mustard, Bresse chickens and Charolais beef – to name just a few.

DINE Some of the top chefs in France proudly maintain the Burgundian tradition of fine dining. A former post house overlooking the vineyards is the setting for a Michelinstarred restaurant with 10 rooms, Le Relais de Montmartre at Viré. Chef-owner

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Photo: Guillaume de Laubier Photos: Hostellerie de Levernois

Clockwise from top: Guests can enjoy a seasonal menu at the Relais de Montmartre, a former post house; Chef Philippe Augé oversees the restaurant of Hostellerie de Levernois; Guest suite at Hostellerie de Levernois.

Frédéric Carrion trained in France’s most prestigious restaurants before returning to his roots. ‘Our menu favours local products, just as we like them,’ he says. From the seasonally inspired menus, choose crispy snails followed by roast Bresse chicken, topped off with warm Grand Marnier soufflé with pear sorbet. Relax with a massage in the spa or enjoy a gourmet picnic lunch in the vineyards. www.relais-de-montmartre.fr Michel Troisgros follows in the family footsteps, running the Maison Troisgros at Roanne, a celebrated temple of gastronomy. Nearby, at Iguerande in the south of Burgundy, he and Marie-Pierre have

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created La Colline de Colombier, an inn set in a former farmhouse. For a romantic experience, stay in one of the three cadoles, contemporary log cabins on stilts. Le Grand Couvert restaurant’s open kitchen makes for a vibrant ambience. Savour typical Troisgros-inspired dishes such as scrambled eggs with chanterelle mushrooms, rib of beef, and floating island with blackberries. www.troisgros.fr Ten minutes from Beaune, the pristine white Hostellerie de Levernois sits in magnificent parkland. Chef Philippe Augé reinvents French classics in the Michelinstarred Gourmet Restaurant. The ‘menu gourmand’ includes roast scallops with

cèpe mushrooms and Burgundy truffle, or breast of pigeon with chestnuts and pumpkin tatin. Try the risotto with Burgundian frog’s legs and snails in a garlic cream sauce, or let Philippe delight you with his ‘menu surprise’. Discover some of the best Burgundy appellations among the 8000 wines in the extensive cellars. For simpler fare, the Bistrot du Bord de l’Eau proposes local cuisine with wines by the glass. www. levernois.com Dijon is the former capital of the powerful Dukes of Burgundy and is worldfamous for its mustard. The Hôtel du Nord is right in the historic city centre. The

Photo this page: Alain Doire/Bourgogne Tourisme

Vineyards for UNESCO Such is the cultural value of Burgundy’s vineyards — specifically, the ‘climats’ or terroir of Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits — that they could soon be included on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The association Climats du vignoble de Bourgogne is pushing for this recognition, which is detailed further on their website: www.climats-bourgogne.com.

Clockwise from top: Vineyards at Clos Vougeot; Cassis mustard from Dijon; the historic Hôtel Dieu in Beaune.

Restaurant de la Porte Guillaume serves traditional Burgundian dishes, including jambon persillé (ham terrine with parsley), coq au vin and boeuf bourguignon. For dessert, try a crèpe with Crème de Cassis, the region’s famous blackcurrant liqueur. The wine bar offers a selection of regional wines with a plate of charcuterie and cheese in the vaulted cellar. www.hotel-nord.fr The village of Vosne-Romanée, between Dijon and Beaune, is a perfect base for exploring the vineyards. The spacious bedrooms at the elegant four-star hotel and spa Le Richebourg combine style

with simplicity. Chef Christophe Frison proposes original and colourful dishes in the contemporary setting of Le vin-Tage restaurant. Enjoy one of the regular concerts of live music and jazz while you eat. www.hotel-lerichebourg.com/en.html

MORE BURGUNDIAN DELIGHTS Apart from the magnificent food and wines, there is much to explore in Burgundy. Visit the vineyards in a horsedrawn carriage, snatch a bird’s-eye view

from a hot air balloon, or take a river excursion on the network of tranquil waterways. The region’s many historic monuments testify to its past glories. It has more châteaux than any other French region, including the imposing Renaissance Château de Sully and the sumptuous Dukes’ Palace in Nevers. The newly renovated Château d’Ancy-le-Franc has a wealth of mural paintings dating back to the Renaissance, making it a rival to Fontainebleau. Guided tours, concerts, cooking classes and wine tasting are available here. Burgundy boasts important religious sites, such as the Abbeys of Cluny and

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Photo this page: Alain Doire/Bourgogne Tourisme

VILLAGE LIFE

Clockwise from top: At the Chalon dans la Rue festival in Chalon sur Saône; café break from shopping in Dijon; Zaccros d’ ma Rue festival in Nevers.

Fontenay, a UNESCO World Heritage-listed site, and the pilgrimage town of Vézelay. Enchanting villages with half-timbered buildings, medieval arcades and ramparts overlook the vineyards or hilltops. Naturally, the Burgundians take every opportunity to showcase their wines. The Festival des Grands Crus is a series of festivals in five different places. Chablis, Cluny, Noyers-sur-Serein, Gevrey-Chambertin and Meursault celebrate fine wines, gastronomy and classical music from July to September. One of the biggest wine events takes place in Beaune every November –

Recently voted one of France’s top 200 B&Bs, Charm’attitude, a 19th-century mansion at Meursanges near Beaune, offers just five individually decorated ensuite bedrooms in a quiet village setting. Stroll in the wooded parkland or take a dip in the heated swimming pool. The owners also organise wine tastings and vineyard tours. On request, Karine Develet will whip up a gourmet meal based on the freshest produce – oeufs en meurette, snails, local beef and tarte à l’Epoisses, one of the great cheeses of France. www.charmattitude.com/presentation.html

the Hospices de Beaune wine auction in aid of charity. To mark the occasion, the town hosts a lively festival. For musical palates, there’s something for every taste. If you like classical music, head for Beaune in July, where the International Festival of Baroque Opera takes place against the incomparable medieval backdrop of the Hôtel-Dieu and the Basilica of Notre-Dame. For jazz buffs, there’s the Festival National de Blues in Le Creusot in June, Jazz at Beaune in mid-September and the Rencontres Internationales D’Jazz in Nevers in November.

And if that’s not enough, Burgundy hosts two of France’s foremost street arts festivals – Châlon Dans la Rue in July and Les Zaccros d’ma rue at Nevers in late June through early July.

›› FURTHER INFORMATION Burgundy Tourism www.burgundy-tourism.com

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Photo: © Le Charlemagne

Bowled OVER by Beaune

Terrace overlooking the impeccably groomed vineyards at Le Charlemagne.

A MEDIEVAL GEM TO BE ENJOYED WITHOUT MODERATION, BEAUNE ALSO OFFERS SOME WONDERFUL ACCOMMODATION AND DINING CHOICES. BY VANESSA COUCHMAN

he first duty of wine is to be red… the second is to be a Burgundy,’ pronounced wine guru Harry Waugh. The historic town of Beaune, wine capital of Burgundy, beckons you to explore its intimate connection with fine wines. Stroll around the cobbled streets and flower-bedecked squares, lined with wine merchants’ mansions and half-timbered medieval houses. Stop to admire Beaune’s architectural masterpiece, the Hôtel-Dieu

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(Hospices de Beaune), with its multicoloured, patterned roof. But most of all, bask in Beaune’s tradition of fine dining and warm hospitality and taste the great wines of the region, such as Aloxe-Corton, Montrachet and Pommard. One of the best ways to experience the area’s charms is by staying – or at least lunching – in one of the châteaux just outside Beaune. The Château de Chassagne-Montrachet, dating back to the 11th century, is a luxury B&B combining

classic stone architecture with contemporary design. Luxuriate in one of the five elegant guest suites, or sink into a Cab de Mario Bellini armchair in one of the artfilled lounges. The Picard family owns the château and vineyards producing worldfamous Chassagne-Montrachet, among others. Enjoy a private visit to the vaulted wine cellars and a tasting of Burgundy wines. www.michelpicard.com. If you’re looking for peace and serenity in a rural setting, La Ferme de Marjolet is

HOTELS AND RESTAURANTS Hotel Via Mokis is a boutique hotel within the ramparts of Beaune. Pamper yourself at the spa, taste fine vintages in the wine bar and relish a gourmet meal at the restaurant. www.viamokis.com La Maison Blanche is a stylish mansion in central Beaune that sleeps 10. Enjoy its pristine elegance and taste the treasures of the owner’s wine cellar. www.lamaison-blanche.fr The Michelin-starred Loiseau des Vignes offers an innovative Burgundy-inspired menu and décor. The restaurant proposes 70 wines by the glass, many of them rare vintages. www.bernard-loiseau.com

Photo: © La Ferme de Marjolet

just 5 kilometres from Beaune. Surrounded by verdant countryside, this 12th-century farmhouse offers three individually designed luxury suites. The owners have transformed it with the help of Chilean architect Daniel Nassar, complementing the warmth of its ancient stone with the purity and clean lines of glass and steel. Take a course in gourmet cuisine, visit the local vineyards, chill out with a massage or simply relax amid the rolling Burgundian hills. www. lafermedemarjolet.com. Le Charlemagne at PernandVergerlesses is set amidst vineyards a stone’s throw from Beaune. Chef-owner Laurent Peugeot trained in Burgundy and Tokyo, and has created an exquisite blend of French and Japanese cuisine. Savour his inspired fusion dishes in a setting based on Japanese Zen philosophy. The harmony of water, stone and wood create a perfect backdrop for a gastronomic experience in this Michelin-starred restaurant. In summer, dine on the terrace overlooking a view that has barely changed since Roman times. www.lecharlemagne.fr.

Glass and steel annex to the original 12th century farmhouse building at La Ferme de Marjolet.

›› FURTHER INFORMATION Beaune Tourist Office www.beaune-tourism.com

Photo: © Philippe Schaff

Photo: © Le Charlemagne

Dessert at Le Charlemagne.

Heady hues at the ‘wine library’ of Loiseau des Vignes.

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Outdoor sculpture from the collection at luxury hotel Les Sources de Caudalie, on the winemaking property Château Smith Haut-Lafitte.

THE LOCALS CALL IT ‘THE OTHER SOUTH OF FRANCE’ BUT WE SAY AQUITAINE HAS A CHARM ALL ITS OWN. BY PERSEPHONE NICHOLAS in Europe) are exceptional here, but land lovers are spoilt too. Ride, hike or ski in the crisp mountain air of the Pyrénées – or simply practice your swing at some of the most scenic golf courses in the world. A paradise for sports lovers, Aquitaine is also famous for its rich local culture. There are many picturesque traditional villages to explore, including the medieval-era Sarlat and St Emilion, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Vézère

Detail of prehistoric art at the Lascaux Cave.

Photo © CRTA – Laurent Reiz

lessed with more than its fair share of sandy beaches (250 kilometres of Atlantic coastline, to be precise), sparkling lakes and rivers plus pine forests of emerald green, Aquitaine in southwestern France is a perfect destination for those that love the great outdoors. A balmy 2200 hours of sunshine each year mean swimming, sailing and surfing (Biarritz has some of the best surf waves

Photo © CRTA / JJ - Brochard

AQUA factor

Vineyards outside Château Cos d’Estournel.

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DIVINE DINING With so much to do, it would be almost possible to forget to eat. Almost, but not quite. Aquitaine is a land of fine dining and fine wining: there are eight Michelinstarred restaurants in Bordeaux alone. Outside Bordeaux, Zoko Moko in the historic centre of Saint-Jean de Luz is a fabulous bistro serving traditional Basqueinspired dishes created from seasonal produce. www.zoko-moko.com La Table des Sens in the fortified town of Villeneuve sur Lot is an intimate one-Michelin star restaurant with a short menu that changes regularly to showcase the freshest and best local produce. Be sure to save room for dessert – patisserie is a known specialty here. www.latabledessens.com.

SUMPTUOUS SLEEPS An easy stroll from the beach at Hossegor, Hotel 202 is a chic new residence (think neutral colour palette, bright accent colours and minimalist styling) with its own Jim Morrison-designed golf course. www.hotel202.fr La Vieille Ecole in Lot-et-Garonne near the fortified towns is a bright, contemporary guesthouse, built from a former girls’ school. www.lavieilleecole.eu In the heart of Biarritz, but within a short walk of the water, Hotel de Silhouette dates back to the reign of Louis XV. Completely renovated and offering every comfort and convenience, the hotel has a tranquil courtyard and terrace plus an elegant lounge bar. www.hotel-silhouette-biarritz.com

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All rooms at La Thuilière in Saint Front de Pardoux in the Dordogne enjoy stunning views over the surrounding parklands. This Tudor-style château is known for its gourmet dining; menus feature local delicacies such as foie gras and duck along with Basque flavours; expect to taste delicious hams and olive oils too. www.lathuiliere.net Le Moulin du Roc in Dordogne’s Champagnac de Bélair is a hotel housed within a mill. Each of its 15 rooms is a stylish mix of period furniture, bare beams and contemporary comforts. The one-Michelin star restaurant is fabulous, and focuses on the best of Périgord produce: foie gras, truffles, walnuts, lamb, duck and strawberries are staples on a menu which encourages diners to sample and taste to their heart’s delight. www.moulinduroc.com Château Latour Ségur in Lussac (close to the village of Saint Emilion) dates back to the 12th century, but couldn’t be more luxurious. Fully renovated and refurbished, the chateau has five suites, each inspired by natural elements (choose from water, fire, metal, earth or wood), and each with its own private garden. There’s also a spa plus cooking classes and wine tastings.www.chateaulatoursegur.com

Photo © CDT Dordogne

Valley in Dordogne-Périgord is home to a multitude of prehistoric caves including the famous Lascaux Cave. Some are adorned with carvings or wall paintings and date back more than 40,000 years. Bordeaux, capital of Aquitaine, has had a major makeover in the last few years, but the city’s historic buildings still reveal its Roman past. These ancient treasures are complemented by Aquitaine’s new and sophisticated tourist attractions. If you’re in Biarritz, be sure to visit La Cité de l’Océan, a high-tech museum revealing the secrets of the deep.

VINE OF THE TIMES Aquitaine is wine-country; grapes have been grown in Aquitaine since Roman times and it is now France’s largest wine production area for fine wine, producing nearly one billion bottles of wine a year. Home to some of the world’s most famous vineyards and vintages, the region is witnessing the growth of wine tourism, as wine lovers flock here to sample its famous (and not-so-famous) drops. Some vineyards now invite visitors to help bring in the harvest or to explore the vineyards by bike, on horseback or even by hot air balloon. The ancient art of winemaking is becoming increasingly high-tech – and Aquitaine has the state-of-the-art wineries to prove it. The Cos D’Estournel winery, for example, was designed by architect Michel Wilmotte and is a contemporary masterpiece – visitors stand on a glass bridge

Contemporary interiors are the hallmark of the Hôtel Silhouette in Biarritz.

Cathedral Saint Front in Périgueux

Historical hot spots Museum Vesunna: Designed by architect Jean Nouvel, this super-slick buil-

Photo © Biarritz Océan

Photo © ChrisLam

ding preserves the remains of a huge Gallo-Roman villa complete with beautiful wall paintings. www.tourisme-perigueux.fr National Museum of Prehistory: This museum, with a collection of more than 18,000 artefacts, transports visitors through human history from the first known traces of humanity to the present day. www.musee-prehistoireeyzies.fr International Prehistoric Centre: An educational centre hosting scientific and cultural exhibitions and events. www.pole-prehistoire.com. Lascaux and the Valley of Man: Nestled among Aquitaine’s greatest treasures, these sites and caves bear witness to 40,000 years of humanity in the region

Striking by night; the exterior of the Cité de l’Océan.

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Take a fresh look

with Citadines Apart’hotels

At Citadines Apart’hotels, we offer cleverly configured spaces and a variety of services so you can choose the stay experience that suits you, delivering the privacy of your own apartment while enjoying the convenience of a hotel. By choosing a Citadines Prestige Apart’hotel, you will benefit from a new contemporary design, comfortable beds, a daily housekeeping service and customized service s as standard. Stay with us overnight, for a weekend break or on an extended leisure trip the choice is yours. Choose from 31 locations in France including 16 in Paris - you’re sure to find a convenient location for your needs. • Apartment style-living • Your own personal kitchen • Onsite laundry facilities

• Complimentary WiFi • Daily continental breakfast • Housekeeping services

For further information on your Citadines apartment in over 60 Apart’hotels worldwide, visit www.citadines.com

Citadines Apart’hotel is managed by The Ascott Limited. It is the largest global serviced residence owner-operator in Asia Pacific, Europe and Gulf region. It manages the Ascott, Citadines and Somerset brands in over 70 cities across more than 20 countries.

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Photo © Richard Nourry

Photo © CRTA – Laurent Reiz Photo © CRTA – Laurent Reiz

Dordogne

Gironde Lot-EtGaronne

Landes

Pyrénées Atlantiques Paris

Bordeaux

to gaze over an ocean of wine barrels. www.estournel.com La Winery Philippe Raoux is another ultra-modern winery. Its steel-and-glass architecture houses a slick restaurant, bar and boutique, but La Winery is known best for its Wine Sign tours – tastings that match wines according to visitors’ individually generated profiles. www.winery.fr In Pomerol, Château Petit Village is a new winery with a dedicated visitors’ centre created by architect Alain Triaud,

who was inspired by the contemporary wineries of Rioja. www.petit-village.com At Château Soutard in Saint Emilion, visitors explore the vineyards at their own pace following themed trails. A ‘Best of Wine Tourism National Winner,’ there are talks by the cellar master and vineyard manager, plus tastings and tours (some of them quite child-friendly) of the château, winery and vineyard. www.chateau-soutard.com.

Clockwise from top: The charming castle of Beynac; Sculpture at the Château d’Arsac; The picturesque Bay of St Jean de Luz.

›› FURTHER INFORMATION www.tourism-aquitaine.com

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Crédit photo OTB/Lucky Studio.

Bordeaux Fête le Vin 2012 – BFV/JB. Nadeau.

Crédit photo OTB/Lucky Studio.

In the MIX

BORDEAUX FETE LE VIN The Bordeaux Wine Festival (28 June –1 July 2012) gives visitors the chance to sample a wide range of wines from Bordeaux and Aquitaine.

BUILT ON THE BANKS OF THE GARONNE RIVER, BORDEAUX IS A CITY WHERE CLASSIC CHARM MEETS CONTEMPORARY COOL – AND THE MIX COULDN’T BE MORE DELICIOUS. BY PERSEPHONE NICHOLAS

onderful wine and fabulous foods entice thousands of Australians to Bordeaux, capital of Aquitaine in southwestern France, each year. Yet this newly renovated city has much more to offer visitors. Renowned for its 18th century architecture, Bordeaux was the very first urban centre to be World Heritage-listed by UNESCO. Hungry for history? Then feast your eyes on the Grand Theatre in the quarter of Grands Hommes, or visit the Palais Rohan in the city centre, home to the Town Hall and the Bordeaux Museum of Fine Arts. No mere monuments, these beautiful buildings work as hard as their contemporary counterparts, highlighted on the Bordeaux Tourist Office’s guided

‘Contemporary Architecture’ tour. There are many more treasures to uncover amongst Bordeaux’ excellent restaurants. Le Saint-James has two Michelin stars and was designed by renowned architect, Jean Nouvel, to make the most of its vineyard setting. Chef Michel Portos’ menus feature the best of local produce, complemented with superlative French wines. www.saintjames-bouliac.com The restaurant Jean-Marie Amat is close to Bordeaux, in Lormont. Chef Jean-Marie Amat prepares contemporary French cuisine in an unmatched location overlooking Bordeaux and the Garonne River. www.jm-amat.com A decadent dinner should always be followed by sweet slumber. The latest locations to lay your head include Le Boutique

Hotel, a centrally located haven with 11 bedrooms and two apartments. The hotel looks like an 18th century townhouse, but the interior is pure contemporary industrial chic. www.hotelbordeauxcentre.com La Maison Fredon is a sophisticated and exclusive boutique hotel in the centre of Bordeaux, and has an award-winning restaurant, La Tupina. www.latupina.com/ pages/maison-fredon.php

›› FURTHER INFORMATION Office de Tourisme de Bordeaux www.bordeaux-tourisme.com

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Clockwise from left: Every evening during the Bordeaux Wine Festival there is a concert, light show and fireworks display on the banks of the Garonne. Take a stroll past the 18th century Grand Theatre of Bordeaux. There is wide choice of eateries in Bordeaux, from traditional brasseries to prestigious Michelin-star restaurants.

SHOTS of pure genius JUST OFF THE CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES, CHEF CHRISTIAN LE SQUER’S THREEMICHELIN STAR PARIS RESTAURANT, LEDOYEN, OFFERS A SOPHISTICATED PARTNERSHIP WITH NESPRESSO, AND A FINE DINING EXPERIENCE FOR THE MOST DISCERNING OF TRAVELLERS. BY NATALIE HOY

edoyen sits within a graceful garden near the Petit Palais. Its elegant neo-classical building dates from 1792 – the height of the French Revolution. But inside the quietly luxurious second-floor dining room, Danton and Robespierre are far from mind: a sense of calm and refinement reigns. From the discreetly spaced tables, crisp white cloths and striped cushioned seating, it’s clear this is a restaurant where comfort counts. There’s even a footstool for your handbag. Then there’s the food. Chef Le Squer personifies French haute cuisine at its best. He relentlessly explores flavours – combining and concentrating to produce artful mouthfuls that delight the senses. ‘I see ingredients as beautiful materials,’ he says, ‘which I must mould, style and refine’. This creativity and innovation are unpinned by Le Squer’s respect for quality. His Belon oysters with caviar emulsion

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evoke the beauty and sea spray of the Breton coast where he lived as a child. Fillet of venison comes perfectly cooked without a trace of gamey flavour, complemented by a peppery sauce and confits de fruits. Cheese trolleys showcase France’s best, and your selection is matched with little breads that suit their flavour – perhaps a buttery, sesame-coated brioche, or a rustic roll studded with figs. Desserts range from light and delicate to rich and intense. Le Squer has been a Nespresso customer for several years. He serves Nespresso Grand Cru coffees to his guests, and uses them in his cooking. His coffee and ham breakfast macarons (see recipe over) were one of four dishes he created for a recent Nespresso Atelier de Création in Paris. This annual culinary event brings together world-renowned chefs, challenging them to incorporate Nespresso coffees into exciting and indulgent recipes.

Photo: © Nespresso – Vittorio Bergamaschi Photo: © Nespresso – Vittorio Bergamaschi

NESPRESSO STORY

> Nespresso sprang from a simple

idea: to enable everyone to make the perfect espresso coffee – just like a skilled barista. With a little help from George Clooney’s handsome face, it has become a world-leading coffee brand, synonymous with style, authenticity and understated elegance. At the heart of Nespresso’s success are

its coffee capsules – each filled with a single shot of expertly roasted and

Photo: © Nespresso – Vittorio Bergamaschi

ground beans, sealed to ensure perfect

Main: Le Squer’s Leggero Crumble, made with white chocolate, Leggero coffee and a blackberry coulis

designed specifically for these capsules,

Top right: The chef at work.

sure to produce a perfect cup of coffee

Centre right: Ledoyen at night.

freshness. Nespresso’s machines are and provide just the right amount of water, at the right temperature and presevery time.

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Photos this page: © Nespresso – Vittorio Bergamaschi

Main: Coffee and ham breakfast macarons. Far right: Exterior and interior of the Nespresso flagship store on the Champs-Élysées.

Recipe Le Squer’s Coffee And Ham Breakfast Macaroons Ingredients (makes 25 to 30 macaroons) Zest from 1/2 kaffir lime 65 g powdered egg whites* 30 g sugar 30 g glucose syrup Green food colouring Citric acid 180 g Nespresso Volluto Grand Cru 5 g Kahlua 500 g ham, finely chopped 45 g foie gras 45 g butter * Available from specialist stores.

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Method 1. Make a lime infusion by boiling the lime zest in 500 ml water for one hour. 2. Mix 150 g of the infusion with half the powdered egg white, then add the food colouring, 15 g glucose and 15 g sugar. Beat until the mixture is almost stiff. Mix in another 15 g glucose and sugar, a pinch of salt and the citric acid. 3. In another bowl, repeat step 2, replacing the infusion with the espresso and Kahlua. 4. Gently mix with the lime paste to give a marble effect, then spoon into a piping bag. 5. Pipe rounds onto lined oven trays, then bake for two hours at 80°C. 7. Mix the ham, butter and foie gras, then spoon into a piping bag. 8. When the macaroons are cool, pipe some ham stuffing onto the flat sides of half. Sandwich with remaining half. Serve.

NESPRESSO STORES If you’re strolling along the the Champs-Élysées, in search of a coffee and a place to regather your strength for the next art gallery, museum or luxury shop, head to the Nespresso boutique at number 119. This exceptional space was designed by a global team of architects, and if you’re a coffee connoisseur it may well be one of the highlights of your trip. Take a seat at the circular barista bar, and choose a brew from a gallery of options. Or settle into the lounge where you can nibble on delicate pastries while you sip. You can also explore Nespresso’s machines and full range of products Armchair travellers can also enjoy Nespresso boutiques. In Sydney, try the flagship store on Pitt Street Mall, or the stores at Bondi Junction and Chatswood. In Melbourne, look for boutiques on Collins Street in the city or Doncaster and Chadstone. There are also boutiques in Brisbane, Perth and one boutique in Auckland, New Zealand.

Left: ThreeMichelin star executive chef Yannick Alléno has a creative approach to cuisine. Below: The hotel’s imposing facade.

Left: Restaurant Le Dali seats diners beneath a vast canvas ceiling painted by Philippe Starck’s daughter, Ara Starck.

c’est MEURICE! THE GLAMOUR AND GRANDEUR OF VERSAILLES, CONTEMPORARY WIT AND STYLE, HOTEL LE MEURICE IN THE VERY HEART OF PARIS IS A DESIGNER DESTINATION WITH ALL THIS AND MUCH MORE. BY PERSEPHONE NICHOLAS

n the heart of Paris, directly opposite the Tuileries Garden and an easy stroll from the Louvre, Le Meurice is one of the Dorchester Collection’s most exquisite gems. This luxe hotel has been a Rue de Rivoli landmark since 1835 and is renowned for its super stylish décor and sensational food. Accommodation couldn’t be more luxurious: there are 160 elegantly appointed Louis XVI-inspired rooms over seven distinctively styled floors. Every room has been designed as a space for guests to relax, recharge and indulge; with soundproofing, air conditioning, wi-fi, multiple telephone lines, cable television and luxurious marble bathrooms in each. The public spaces are as sumptuous as the private; the dining and imbibing

options are sublime. Three-Michelin star executive chef Yannick Alléno has a contemporary and creative approach to all things culinary. Parisians and international visitors flock to Le Meurice to sample Alléno’s degustation menus featuring seasonal local produce prepared with his signature flair and passion for the exotic. Refurbished by design legend Philippe Starck in 2007, fine dining Restaurant le Meurice overlooks the Tuileries Gardens. Restaurant Le Dali seats diners beneath a vast canvas ceiling painted by Philippe Starck’s daughter, Ara Starck. This unique Dali-inspired restaurant is brimful of wit and whimsy – spot the chair with feet shaped like a woman’s shoe, and the iconic lobster phone!

For a pre-dinner cocktail or a postdinner nightcap, Bar 228 is the place to see and be seen. Sink into leather armchairs and choose from a drinks list offering more than 300 tipples including exclusive cocktails such as the Starcky or the 228.

LE MEURICE PARIS 228 rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris, France T: + 33 1 44 58 10 10 E: reservations.lmp@dorchestercollection.com W: lemeurice.com ‘My cooking is like my city, and my city is Paris.’ — Yannick Alléno, executive chef, Le Meurice Paris.

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From top: Box window seating and Notre Dame views at Hyacinth apartment; More views from Hyacinth; Classical furnishings at the Eglantine apartment.

Windows on PARIS WITH MORE THAN 50 STYLISH ADDRESSES TO CHOOSE FROM, GUEST APARTMENT SERVICES PROPOSES A UNIQUE OFFERING FOR VISITORS CONSIDERING AN EXTENDED STAY IN PARIS

magine waking up in your own Paris apartment, and looking out over the River Seine, Notre Dame Cathedral or the Eiffel Tower before heading downstairs to buy fresh croissants for breakfast. Or perhaps hosting an intimate soiree at your own dining table, or settling at a sprawling desk for some serious French studies. Owners Christophe Chastel and Philippe Pee of Guest Apartment Services understand that their guests want to experience the dream of Paris from the moment they arrive. They have spent the past 15 years refining their service offering, which gives guests an unrivalled degree of perso-

nal freedom combined with concierge-like services. Choose from over 50 carefully selected apartments, with the décor as classical or as contemporary as you want it to be. Many apartments feature an outdoor terrace for al fresco dining, and even those furnished in period style are fitted with contemporary kitchens and bathrooms. Sizes range from studios to one, two and three-bedroom layouts, and even townhouses. Customer service is a point of pride, and includes 24-hour emergency access, airport limousine transfers, and concierge reservations for sought-after restaurants and shows.

Some 50 per cent of guests are repeat visitors – perhaps the most eloquent indicator of client satisfaction at Guest Apartment Services. Even if you haven’t booked for this trip, you’re welcome to drop by Christophe and Philippe’s new office on Ile Saint-Louis to inspect their facilities, while enjoying a freshly brewed coffee or a flute of chilled champagne.

›› FURTHER INFORMATION Guest Apartment Services www.guestapartment.com

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Photo: © Pierre Soissons

Time to UNWIND WHETHER YOU’RE SEEKING A MOOD OF RETRO, ROMANCE OR RELAXATION, PARIS’S NEWEST FOUR-STAR HOTELS OFFER CHOICES APLENTY. SUSAN WESTWOOD TAKES A PEEK INSIDE SOME SUITES.

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The ‘design hotel’ trend may have begun with the arrival of the boutique hotel, but is now firmly entrenched in travellers’ expectations. Witness the stunning makeovers of some of the world’s greatest hotels, followed by exciting changes among the more affordable establishments. Paris is no exception to this trend. Eye-catching colour schemes, stylish furniture and fittings and new-generation technology are par for the course, along with attractive communal areas and day spas. Here are four contemporary hotels with great allure.

Photo: © JimmyDelpire

Photo: Le Pradey

From far left: Chantal Thomas suite at Le Pradey; Art work at Le Pradey; Dramatic Monroe-inspired décor at one of the Hotel Platine’s Superior suites

Le Pradey The intimate Le Pradey is imbued with warmth and style, its architect Vincent Bastie having drawn his inspiration from the timeless style of Hermès. In several suites, he has used furnishings, fabrics and wallpapers from Hermès collections, along with furniture commissioned by the legendary fashion house. Pieces include a writing desk and pearwood stool by Rena Dumas, and a sofa and armchairs by JeanMichel Frank.

Bastie’s chic interior also incorporates two romantic suites created by French lingerie designer, Chantal Thomas. These feature more elaborate décor, echoing the flamboyance of the Opéra Garnier and the city’s cabarets. Materials that evoke the Right Bank – such as grey zinc rooftops or the pale stone of Hausmann façades – have been cleverly interwoven into the hotel’s overall design scheme, both inside and out. Throughout the day, guests can sip or sup in various charming settings. Choose

a light breakfast of patisserie with coffee in the breezy mezzanine lounge, or opt for a gourmet breakfast in the atmospheric vaulted cellar. From midday until late evening, take your drinks and aperitifs in the cosy library area of the mezzanine floor. Alternatively, stay in and order wines available exclusively from the Pa de l’Escalette Vineyard in Languedoc, or have a bouquet of flowers from Au Vert + sent to your room or suite. Ask about VIP access to the chic new After the Rain Spa and its

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Cultural attractions nearby include the Musée Marmottan, filled with works by Claude Monet, the Place de Trocadéro, and the Bois de Boulogne. >> Platine Hotel 20 rue de l’Ingénieur Robert Keller, Paris +33 1 45 71 15 15 www.platinehotel.fr

Le Crayon Photo: © Pierre Soissons

Suite at Le Pradey.

pool on rue de Rivoli. Le Pradey is a short stroll from the verdant Tuileries gardens and the stylish boutiques of rue du Faubourg-Saint Honoré. >> Le Pradey 5 rue Saint Roch, Paris +33 1 42 60 31 70 www.lepradey.com

Platine Hotel

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Superior suite bathroom at Hotel Platine.

Photo: ©JimmyDelpire

Glamorous film icon Marilyn Monroe takes centre stage at this new boutique hotel in the 16th arrondissement. In each suite, an image of the Hollywood star adorns the bedhead and is offset by furnishings. Whether you love an innocent Marilyn, clad in pastel pinks and mint green ginghams, or a more sultry version in black and red, there’s a room to suit your taste. All 46 rooms are equipped with LCD screens, wireless access and iPod docking stations, along with new bathrooms in retro-style mosaic tiles. The screen theme continues in communal areas, with guests invited to start their day in a breakfast room resembling an American diner. Turquoise-coloured banquettes are offset against ice-pink tabletops, and backed by a wall panel depicting a glittering US city skyline. In the evening, relax in the comfor-

table lounge and bar area, where moody wood panelling and dark walls are accented with curvy 50s leather armchairs. In summer, enjoy an aperitif in the spacious gardens outside. The hotel’s spa, lined with natural timbers, provides a soothing backdrop to a choice of luxurious French Omnisens treatments, from revitalizing facials to relaxing aromatherapy massage. Architect Vincent Bastie has achieved a strong connection between this hotel and its surrounds, a quiet neighbourhood that developed during the 1950s.

Le Crayon invites guests to enter the bohemian world of a Parisian artist. Talented artist-designer Julie Gauthron and hotelier Christophe Sauvage, of Elegancia Hotels, have teamed to create a warm, vibrant setting. Scouring antique shops and markets in Paris and beyond, the duo have found and restored striking vintage pieces such as Jean Paulin chairs, Scandinavian sofas and industrial lockers. These are used to great effect in the hotel’s 26 guest rooms and suites. All rooms boast rustic wooden floors, bright colour schemes, and disarmingly personal touches, whether a stack of books beside the bed in English and French, or clusters of framed black-and-white family photographs on the walls. There are several themes to choose from, such as Individual Style, in jewellike hues such as sapphire and amethyst; or Delightful Drawings, featuring 1930s

Photo: ©JacquesLebar

Delightful Drawings suite at Le Crayon.

>> Le Crayon 25, Rue du Bouloi +33 (0)1 42 36 54 19 www.hotelcrayon.com

Elysée Secret Intimate and tucked-away, this hotel is still only moments away from the grand Champs Élysées and its designer stores, such as the imposing Louis Vuitton flagship. The hotel’s 26 bright white rooms and suites are chic hideaways, enlivened with alluring shades of fuschia, emerald and vivid yellow. Touches of romance have been brought in with wall panels highlighting portraits of Marie Antoinette. Above

the bedside tables, diamond-shaped light fixtures hang suspended, casting a fairylike glow through the rooms. Guests may choose from three different décor schemes, from the simple, elegant Secret rooms, to the more opulent Boudoir rooms. On the sixth floor, two duplex Trianon suites provide more indulgent amenities, including king size beds, a private bath suite and a Nespresso machine. All rooms feature complimentary wireless access, iPod docking stations, flatscreen TVs, and a mini-bar stocked with complimentary mineral water and soft drinks. Breakfast is included in the tariff. Amenities include a business centre and small lounge on the first floor. Champagne and tasting plates can be arranged on request, either in the lounge or in your suite – the perfect way to unwind after a day absorbing the nearby Louvre, the Petit and the Grand Palais.

Photo: Elysee Secret

sketches of the Paris skyline. All have ultra-slick bathrooms, and high-tech electronics such as wireless access. Order breakfast in your suite, or take your café au lait and patisserie in the breakfast room. There is also a living room lined with bookshelves for relaxation, and a cosy bar on the ground floor. The hotel is a stroll away from the Louvre and Les Halles.

>> Elysée Secret 5, Rue de Ponthieu, Paris +33 1 43 59 70 36 www.hotel-elysee-secret-paris.com

Façade of Elysee Secret.

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Ivy LEAGUE CONVERTED FROM A FORMER MANSION, THE FOUR-STAR RELAIS CHRISTINE PARIS EXUDES A TIMELESS ELEGANCE AND HARBOURS AN ARRAY OF TUCKED-AWAY DELIGHTS.

RELAIS CHRISTINE A: 3, rue Christine 75006 Paris T: + 33 1 40 51 60 80 W: www.relais-christine.com

he smart, well-heeled district of Saint-Germain-desPrés places visitors within easy walking distance of Paris’s best shops and sights, including the Louvre, Notre Dame and Ile-de-la-Cité. A stay in the discreetly luxurious Relais Christine is a suitably cultured setting for such a visit. For one, the building is redolent of the area’s history, with its Renaissanceera front gate, stonemasonry and interior courtyard belying its former role as a mansion (the Bertrand family converted it into a hotel in 1979). The original structure was built on the remains of the Abbey of the Grands-Augustins, founded in 1231. The distinctive medieval vaulted ceilings on the ground floor date back to this era, and now preside imposingly over the hotel’s

From top: View through front entrance gate; private courtyard garden; individualised furnishings in one of the deluxe suites. Top right: Lounge area in the Duplex Junior Suite.

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present-day dining room, as well as the day spa. Then there’s the authentic French style of the 51 rooms and suites, styled in natural hues, antique furniture and soft lighting – and offset with slick contemporary ensuite bathrooms. In several suites, exposed timber beams add a rustic ambience; in others, double doors leading to a private garden offer a sanctuary from the city’s hustle and bustle. Perhaps most important of all is the family-run management’s dedication to attentive service. The concierge can help with everything from concert tickets to a rented bicycle and private transfer to the airport, and room service is available around the clock. Visit the website to learn about specials, and read the concierge’s blog to find out what’s happening in Paris.

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DESIGN Decadence INTRODUCING A CHIC NEW CHÂTEAU-HOTEL: THE SAINT JAMES PARIS IS BILLED AS ‘A COCKTAIL OF ELEGANCE, HUMOUR AND FANTASY, TO BE ENJOYED WITHOUT MODERATION.’

ho hasn’t drooled over Paris’s majestic townhouses? They cluster imposingly around the ChampsÉlysées and Eiffel Tower – you might just glimpse a formal dinner in progress behind floor-length windows, or see an impossibly elegant figure dash out the huge front doors. Now visitors can enjoy such old-world refinement themselves, with the 2011 revamp of the Saint James Paris, a former college and gentlemen’s club-turned-hotel. Here, the Bertrand family – owners of the delightful Relais Christine hotel – has fused together château-hotel exclusivity with private-home intimacy. Each of the hotel’s 48 rooms and suites has a unique décor, the work of eccentric Paris-raised interior designer, Bambi Sloan.

She has stayed true to the building’s 1892 heritage, with Napoleon III-style furnishings, herringbone parquetry and lashings of antiques throughout, but has injected a contemporary mood too, with bursts of bold colour and patterning. The hotel offers some wonderful amenities. The library beckons with leather chairs and floor-to-ceiling bookshelves, while the garden has three arbours and a grassy lawn on which to sunbathe, sip tea, or finish that novel. At the restaurant, enjoy generous French cuisine by renowned chef Cyrille Robert. There’s also an intimate bar, a Gemology Spa, private function rooms, and tailored services from the concierge. Become a club member and you’ll have access to all this even without staying, while gaining access to 220-plus affiliated clubs around the world.

SAINT JAMES PARIS A: 43, avenue Bugeaud 75116 Paris T: +33 1 44 05 81 81 W: www.saint-james-paris.com From top: Grand proportions and contrast paintwork in the foyer; the château-like exterior; leather chairs and chocolate tones in the library.

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Photo: Eric d’Herouville

Laid-back eco chic at Les Ormes.

PITCHED just right GRAND CHÂTEAUX AND FIVE-STAR CLIFFTOP-HOTELS? NOT A SCRATCH ON GLAMOROUS CAMPING WHEN IT COMES TO COMBINING LUXURY WITH NOVELTY, WRITES ELLA LOMBARDI.

t may come as a surprise, but returning to nature doesn’t have to mean forgoing life’s little luxuries. Now you can recline by the fire in your fluffy bathrobe while a chef whips up a three-course gourmet meal. Afterwards, retire to comfortable beds in a yurt, tipi, sky-skimming tree house or African-style safari tent. Although it’s an unusual kind of splurge, glamping – ‘glamorous camping’ – has enjoyed a growing presence in French travel, and a quick online search on the subject reveals plenty of choices.

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Haut Toupian Just outside the village of Goudargues in Provence is the idyllic Haut Toupian. Two luxury tents built on raised wooden platforms take in vistas of the scenic mountains and lavender fields on the 4.5-hectare property. Inside, there are sumptuous double beds, ensuite bathrooms, fluffy doonas, a wine and cheese fridge, espresso machine and even free wi-fi. ‘I loved camping, but you couldn’t pay me to sleep on the ground anymore,’ laughs the bubbly owner, Canadian-born Polly Crichton.

There are no cooking facilities, but Polly’s culinary skills are legendary. Think four-course dinners on your private terrace, with dishes making the most of seasonal produce, and ‘tent service’ for breakfast. web.me.com/pollycrichton/Luxury_ Tents/Welcome.html

Orion B&B Just near Nice on the French Riveria, you can fulfill your own Tarzanand-Jane fantasy when you climb 9 metres up an outer wooden staircase to a treetop hideaway.

Photo: Hans Poot

Photo: Benoit Vollet

Photo: Domaine de la Cour au Grip

Clockwise from top right: Peeking inside the tent at Haut Toupian; Treehouse at Orion B&B; a cider barrel-turned-bedroom in Normandy; sauna at Orion B&B.

ECO LUXURY IN FRANCE? According to Greentraveller founder, Richard Hammond, France has Stay in one of just four plush tree houses built among thick oak and pine trees. Set apart for privacy, each tree house features queen beds, luxurious linens, down quilts and oversized pillows. The Shere Khan is the most spacious, with a double bedroom and ensuite bathroom, quaint wooden tub and even a writing desk. A giant tree pokes right through the huge outdoor terrace. Eco awareness is evident here, from the luscious all-natural bathroom products provided to the chemical-free, plant-filtered swimming pool that blends into the garden. Borrow a picnic set and dine al fresco, or stroll 15 minutes to the medieval village of Saint-Paul de Vence. www.orionbb.com

always been a leader in ecotourism – but just hasn’t flaunted it. ‘France has a brilliant network of trains, which leave much less of a carbon footprint than flying. Then there’s the food — French markets are known for their local seasonal produce, much of it chemical-free. And the French hike all over the country. It’s all very eco-friendly here,’ he says.

For more green travel options in France, visit: www.caviarandmint.com www.greentraveller.co.uk www.goglamping.com lacouraugrip.blog.capital.fr

Camping Les Ormes Fresh flowers, chandeliers, designer recycled décor and stunning French linens are par for the course when you step into just one of five fully furnished luxury desert tents at Camping Les Ormes. All amenities except towels are provided, including electricity, cooking facilities and fridges and all tents have a terrace. Camping Les Ormes is unashamedly luxurious, yet maintains a focus on family with plenty of space and activities to keep them amused. There’s even a children’s-only restaurant, where they can dine with their newfound friends. Mum and dad get to join other ‘campers’ at the restaurant’s communal table in a restored barn, and feast on French regional specialties. www.campinglesormes.com

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Into the LIGHT HAUNTING, HISTORIC AND FULL OF UNIQUE CULTURAL TREASURES INCLUDING MEMORIALS, MUSEUMS, ART GALLERIES AND MUCH MORE, A HOLIDAY IN NORTHERN FRANCE IS A JOURNEY OF DISCOVERY AND DELIGHT. BY PERSEPHONE NICHOLAS

amous as the site of many bloody battles that helped shape modern history, but also known for its natural beauty and lively arts scene, Northern France is a province with plenty to be proud of. The region is ideally situated at the centre of the triangle connecting Paris, Brussels and London and is home to two world-famous cities. Lille, on the Belgian border, is the regional capital while Arras, midway between the Somme battlefields and the Ypres Salient, played a pivotal role

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in the Great War. Those with an interest in history will find the memorials and museums of Northern France both powerful and poignant. As the centenary of the Great War approaches in 2014, the region is preparing to mark this milestone with the opening of new and upgraded museums at Fromelles (near Lilles) and Bullecourt (close to Arras). Also in progress is an international memorial bearing the names of the 600,000 soldiers who died in French Flanders and Artois during World War I.

Various special services and ceremonies are scheduled as well. While many visitors come to immerse themselves in the past, there is much to see and do that is embedded in the present. For example, the new Louvre-Lens, the first Louvre museum outside Paris, will open its doors at the end of this year and there are many more exceptional exhibitions and events planned for the region’s world-class museums and art galleries. Here’s our pick of this year’s highlights:

Photo: Anne-Sophie Flament

HONOURING AUSTRALIANS: THE AUSTRALIAN REMEMBRANCE TRAIL ALONG THE WESTERN FRONT.

Top right: Sculptor Peter Corlett’s statue, the Cobber of Fromelles.

REMEMBERING THE GREAT WAR The Remembrance Trails (Les Chemins de Mémoire) are four unique itineraries that guide visitors around 110 sites, to promote understanding and appreciation of some major events of world history, and to honour the casualties of war. The Front (allow three days): This route follows the former frontline extending from the Ypres Salient to the battlefields of the Somme. It includes military cemeteries, memorials and museums remem-

bering the soldiers and nations engaged in some of the war’s bloodiest battles. The war of movement and the first German occupation (allow two days): This trail recognises human courage and sacrifice, and the tireless fight by the local Resistance. Sites include the Memorial to the Lille Resistance, and Ors Communal Cemetery, where war poet Second Lieutenant Wilfred Owen is buried. The Allies’ logistics base on the channel coast (allow two days): This route links key sites of the Allies’ campaign including the largest Commonwealth War Cemetery in

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Photo: Nordmag

Main image: The opening parade for Fantastic 2012, Lille’s three-month-long art extravaganza, will be spectacular.

Led by the Australian Department for Veteran Affairs, this ‘trail within the trails’ honours and commemorates the service of Australians on the Western Front, and links some of the most important sites in the nation’s history. These include the newly upgraded Museum Jean and Denise Letaille – Bullecourt 1917, which reopened on Anzac Day this year. Another new museum, at Fromelles, will open in July 2013 and mark the 97th anniversary of the Battle of Fromelles. It was the first battle along the Western Front in which Australian soldiers fought, and left more than 5500 wounded, dead or missing. There is a new military cemetery here, too, created after the major archeological discovery of a mass grave at Pheasant Wood where 250 bodies were buried. Also in the area is Melbourne sculptor Peter Corlett’s iconic statue, the Cobber of Fromelles. This piece represents Victorian farmer Sergeant Simon Fraser, who disobeyed orders to leave the trenches and recover wounded soldiers lying in no-man’s land after the battle.

world’s most famous and largest museum, the Louvre-Paris. Permanent exhibitions will focus on humanity and culture from Mesopotamia 4BC to 19th century Europe, and will be complemented by temporary internationally themed exhibitions.

The LAM museum of contemporary art at Villeneuve d’Ascq exhibits every major artist of the 20th and 21st centuries.

VIVE VERSAILLES

Photo: Frédérik Astier

Experience the glamour of a bygone era at a new exhibition at Arras Museum of Fine Arts. In a unique collaboration that brings the Château de Versailles to Arras, this exhibition is the first in France devoted to the art and science of 18th century travel. Taking place in the historic Saint-Vaast Abbey, exhibition highlights include coaches from Napoleon I’s wedding, Charles X’s coronation and Louis XVIII’s funeral, plus paintings, sculptures and furnishings from the period. www.versaillesarras.com

France at Étaples and the biggest British Army training camp outside Great Britain. Commonwealth soldiers came here for training before being sent to the Western Front. Post-war reconstruction (allow two days): The fourth trail provides an uplifting insight into the reconstruction of the towns and villages — from Armentières to Baupaume — that were among the battlefields and along the former frontline. Leading Lille architect, Louis-Marie Cordonnier, supervised the recreation of many devastated towns. www.remembrancetrails-northern.france.com

On 4 December, the day of Saint Barbara (the Patron Saint of Miners), the new Louvre-Lens will open its doors. Designed by Pritzker prize-winning Japanese architects, SANAA, and built on the site of a former coalfield, this contemporary glass-and-aluminium space will host prestigious collections from the

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Photo: Eric Le Brun – Light Motiv

COMING SOON… THE LOUVRE-LENS

MINING MADE OVER For almost three centuries, the coal industry shaped landscapes, cities and human lives in Northern France. When the last mine closed in 1990, a way of

life disappeared, leaving only abandoned pitheads and industrial wasteland to tell the tale. Decades later, the mining basin of Northern France is being considered for World Heritage status. Many obsolete sites have been reborn, as mining museums at Wallers-Arenberg and Lewarde, and as contemporary cultural centres at Lens (the Louvre-Lens), Loos-en-Gohelle and Oignies.

The Beaux Arts Museum in Lille exhibits European art from the 15th-20th century.

The LAM contemporary art museum at Villeneuve d’Ascq (just outside Lille) boasts the largest collection of primitive art in France, and is also the only museum in Europe exhibiting every major artist of the 20th and 21st centuries. www.museelam.fr Starting with a spectacular opening parade, Fantastic 2012 is a three-monthlong (6 October 2012 – 13 January 2013) art extravaganza in Lille celebrating the work of old masters and new. www.lille3000.eu The Matisse Museum in the artist’s home town of Le Cateau-Cambrésis has a large collection of paintings by Matisse The town hall and belfry of Arras, a city that played a pivotal role in the Great War.

Photo: Xavier Alphand

Photo : Xavier Alphand

ART WITH HEART

Enjoy a spot of retail therapy in Lille.

plus works by Picasso, Chagall and Miró. museematisse.cg59.fr A former swimming pool dating back to the 1930s, La Piscine in Roubaix is an Art Deco jewel housing the Musée d’Art et d’Industrie. It has a fine collection of 19th and 20th century art in a stunning setting. www.roubaix-lapiscine.com In Lille, the Beaux Arts Museum’s collection includes European art from the 15th to the 20th century including works by Rubens, Van Dyck, Goya, Delacroix, Pradier and Rodin. www.palaisdesbeauxarts.fr See the extraordinary work of British sculptor Sir Antony Caro at The Chapel of Light in Bourbourg. The chapel is home to 15 sculptures by the artist, all exploring the theme ‘The Creation.’

›› FURTHER INFORMATION www.northernfrance-tourism.com

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5 gtooodchroeoasseonTsoulouse An amazing heritage

Private mansion contemporary of the golden age of woad production, religious buildings with decors made of bricks and stones, rich museum collections: let yourself be surprised as you will be twirling from place to place!

Capital of “art de vivre”

To enjoy Toulouse region’s gentle way of life, you will need to take your time, walk around the lively streets, stroll around the street markets. Savour foie gras, duck breast, cassoulet, Toulouse sausages, south-west France cheese and wines, violet flavour delicacies.

Festive Toulouse

An active and bubbling town, Toulouse holds from its proximity to Spain a definite taste for all kinds of celebrations. The town’s warm and friendly identity reveals itself to the beat of local sport games, cultural events and enjoys many theatres, bars and night-clubs.

A city open to the skies

conception graphique : studio pastre © j. gifford ; j. m. herrador ; airbus sas ; m. huyhn ; ville de toulouse - p. nin ; p. daubert

Toulouse is the first aeronautics European centre. Science and technology enthusiasts will be able to tour the Airbus assembly lines and to explore the mysteries of the universe at the Cité de l’espace theme park.

The “Pink City” is also green

The canal du Midi and the many parks and gardens are among the town’s natural areas dedicated to relaxation, strolls or leisure sports. As for the Garonne river, it definitely illustrates the soul of the town.

www.toulouse-tourisme.com

LanguedocRoussillon is full of stunning vistas, natural and man-made.

Photo: P Palau

Land of LIGHT and luxury WARM, WELCOMING AND AWASH WITH WONDERS NATURAL AND MANMADE, THE SOUTH-WESTERN PROVINCE OF LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON IS FULL OF THE FINEST THINGS IN LIFE. BY PERSEPHONE NICHOLAS Indulge your senses and soothe your soul with a holiday in LanguedocRoussillon. The landscape is spectacular, the history and culture extraordinary, and the food and wine are among the finest in France. Best described as a natural amphitheatre, the terrain of LanguedocRoussillon has drama and contrast aplenty. The majestic Pyrénées Orientales and Lozère departments form the upper terraces of the amphitheatre, graduating to the departments of Aude, Gard and Hérault. The landscape is vast and varied;

windswept plains, native scrubland and sloping vineyards descend to a protected coastline of 220 kilometres of golden sandy beaches and the glittering waters of the Mediterranean. This natural wonderland has plenty of man-made and design attractions to offer too: the capital of the region, Montpellier (Hérault) has a rich cosmopolitan heritage, is studded with historic buildings and squares and is a cultural hub, attracting lovers of the arts from far and wide. Also in Gard, admire classical Roman design at Nîmes, which dates back 2500 years

and where many ancient buildings including temples, baths and a magnificent amphitheatre survive to tell tales from the past. Or explore design in its higher form – art. The Pyrénéan seaside resort of Collioure is famous for its Fauvist art past. Another cultural hot spot known for its surrealist art history, Perpignan (Pyrénées Orientales) has a vibrant Catalan heritage that is centuries old. Built at the foot of a mountain, Mende (Lozère) is an ancient country town, its cathedral dating back to the 14th century.

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Carcassonne: The best preserved medieval city in Europe and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

HERITAGE AT THE HEART Boasting a history as rich and varied as its landscape, Languedoc-Roussillon is the only region in France with six UNESCOlisted World Heritage Sites. Be sure to see Carcassonne, the best preserved medieval city in Europe; the 17th century Canal du Midi which links the south and west coasts of France; Villefrance-de-Conflent, one of the Vauban fortified fortresses; the Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage routes; the mortarless Roman aqueduct, the Pont du Gard; and the rural Mediterranean landscapes of Causses and Cévennes.

FABULOUS FESTIVALS Summer time is festival time. There’s no better way to share in the local art de vivre than the local fêtes: here are a few that might delight.

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The Nîmes Flamenco Festival: A passionate celebration of music and dance in the heart of the town. www.theatredenimes.com The Festival of Nîmes: This unique festival cuts across musical genres to present the best of modern music in a truly atmospheric setting – the Roman amphitheatre. www.festivaldenimes.com The Perpignan Festival of Photojournalism: A cutting-edge and sometimes confronting tribute to the art of contemporary photo reportage. www.visapourlimage.com The Festival of Carcassonne: Expect the unexpected at this eclectic celebration. The programme is broad and includes classical opera, contemporary dance and drama plus circus acts. www.festivaldecarcassonne.fr The Springtime of Comedy festival, Montpellier: With a new director and a fresh focus for 2012, this year’s programme celebrates world culture and circus. www.printempsdescomediens.com

Village life at Saint Guilhem Le Desert.

Photos this page: P Palau

QUALITY ASSURED... With the Cercle Prestige. Looking for luxurious accommodation and visitor facilities in the South of France? Whether you’re traveling for business or for pleasure, finding them is simple with the Cercle Prestige. An initiative from Sud de France Développement, the Cercle Prestige brings together more than 50 highquality establishments (including châteaux, monuments, hotels, residences, Benedictine monasteries, wine estates, fine-dining restaurants and conference centres) representing the cream of the area’s visitor attractions, all within easy reach of the region’s larger towns and cities. en.sunfrance.com/cercle_prestige/ the_cercle_prestige.

The village of Bages.

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The food and wine of Languedoc-Roussillon are among the finest in France.

The vineyards of the Pyrénées-Orientales grow right down to the beach.

Photo: P Palau Contemporary interiors are always in vogue.

QUALITÉ SUD DE FRANCE... The promise of a warm welcome. Languedoc-Roussillon has introduced a special accreditation scheme

FINE FEASTS Whether simple or sophisticated, every meal can be a feast in this province where abundant fresh produce and delicious local specialties are the norm. There are 25 Michelin-rated restaurants in Languedoc-Roussillon, but there are many more offering fantastic fare all over the region. When in Aude, be sure to taste the local cassoulet, native pork and beans slow-cooked in a traditional dish. Lozère is heaven for cheese lovers: try Tomme de Lozère, a creamy sheep’s milk cheese with a grey rind. It is also a great place to try aligot, a traditional cheese and garlic flavoured potato purée. In Collioure in the Pyrénées Orientales, anchovies are king. Try these savoury delights either salted, marinated or prepared in oil, cream or tapenade. Famous for its salt, Fleur de Sel, the Gard is also known for the local brandade, salt cod combined with olive oil and herbs. Wine-marinaded Camargue beef is a specialty too and most popular during bullfighting festivals. In Nîmes, try the local

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savoury pastries; usually stuffed with veal and pork, they are served piping hot! The Hérault is famous for its charcuterie, made from the sweet meat of local pigs fed on chestnuts and acorns. It’s also the leading French producer of shellfish. Visit the little port of Bouzigues and sample the freshest oysters, mussels and crustaceans at the water’s edge.

WINE OF THE TIMES Wine-making has been part of the heritage of Languedoc-Roussillon for almost 3000 years, with grapes sourced from some 300,000 hectares of vineyards. The second largest AOC (Apellation Originale Controlée) producer, top quality red (including Corbières and Minervois), white and rosé wines are made locally as well as sparkling wines, Cremants and sweet wines including Muscat and Banyuls. Organic wine production is on the rise in Languedoc-Roussillon – around a third of vineyards are now growing grapes organically.

- Qualité Sud de France – to help visitors to the region enjoy their trip to the fullest. Establishments and attractions bearing the Qualité Sud de France plaque are committed to offering visitors a warm welcome, professional service and a true taste of life in the region. Look for the Qualité Sud de France plaque wherever you travel. en.sunfrance.com/book_online/ qualite_sud_de_france

›› FURTHER INFORMATION A: L’Acropole 954 avenue Jean Mermoz 34000 Montpellier T: +33 4 67 200 220 E: contact@suddefrance-dvpt.com

How to do London ~ Paris like a local A chic trip on Eurostar shows true savoir-faire

For a stylish, seamless trip between London and Paris, savvy travellers take the Eurostar tout de suite in just 2hrs 15mins. Contact your rail provider for information and bookings

www.citholidays.com.au

www.railplus.com.au

www.harveyworld.com.au

www.travelscene.net.au

www.flightcentre.com.au

Left: Entrance to the Musée Fabre. Right: Vibrant designs by Christian Lacroix on tram line 3.

SLICE of sunshine CAPITAL OF THE LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON REGION, MONTPELLIER OFFERS ALL THE ENTICING FLAVOURS OF SOUTHERN FRANCE, AND THE BUZZ OF A VIBRANT METROPOLIS. BY RUBY BOUKABOU

he charm of Montpellier sprinkles itself thickly over the hilly terrain, just 11 kilometres from the Mediterranean: from its open squares and terraced cafés, to the groomed gardens and parks perfect for inner contemplation, and the bustling wine bars of the medieval old town. Best of all, Montpellier lies just 3½ hours by TGV from Paris, and is deliciously worth the trip. As you join the hub of locals and visitors for a pastis (aniseed liquor served with water and ice), drink in the relaxed buoyancy of the town that thrives with culture and design. Visit during the Festival of Live Architecture (each June), and you’ll get plenty of insights into the city’s links between heritage and contemporary architecture. The festival also showcases the work of emerging urban planners, designers and architects.

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But impressive architecture can be appreciated year-round. Montpellier Agglomération’s Fabre Museum houses contemporary and classic pieces dating from the Renaissance to today, and the city itself brims with stately structures from all ages. Montpellier also offers some stellar contemporary architecture and design.

RBC Design Centre Founded by Franck Argentin, this is the newest of the exclusive series of furniture design centres, and was designed by famed French architect Jean Nouvel. Enter the modernist structure and discover chairs, tables, stools and lights designed by Jean-Marie Massaud, Philippe Starck, Jean Pouve and Nouvel himself. Purchase a present, or just enjoy it as a contemporary design museum. www.rbcmobilier.com

The New Town Hall (Hotel de Ville) The new Hotel de Ville was designed by Jean Nouvel in collaboration with François Fontès, and is hard to miss. A bold design featuring cladding in reflective blues and greens, the ice-like structure was inspired by the Hotel de Region, itself based on Paris’ Arc de Triomphe.

New Courtyard Marriott Hotel For the 24-hour Jean Nouvel experience, check into the four-star New Courtyard Marriot Hotel. Located directly next to the Hotel de Ville, this new Nouveldesigned hotel is contemporary yet comfortable. Offering all the mod cons of flatscreen TVs, wifi, pools, spas and fitness studios, it is ideal for work and leisure.

EXPLORING THE HÉRAULT IN LANGUEDOC As capital of the idyllic Languedoc region, Montpellier places visitors within easy range of the some utterly southern-French experiences. Think gentle sunshine, sandy beaches and majestic mountains, studded with Roman and Cathar relics. Photo: © Ville de Montpellier

The cuisine is typically Mediterranean – with its cheese, olives, herbs and seafood – and the wines emanate 2000 years of viticulture. For more information about the people, the vistas, the festivals, the markets and more, visit the website at www.languedoc.com

If not staying the night, dine there instead, enjoying a typically Mediterranean meal in the Oleo Pazzo Bistro.

Tram Line 3 and 4 Who would have thought catching the tram could be so chic? The internal carriages of tram lines 3 and 4 have been designed by fashion icon Christian Lacroix. Turns out the designer grew up in Arles, and his grandfather was mechanical engineer for a train line. For the young Lacroix, tracks and trains epitomised travel and adventure. Lacroix’s tram interiors are colour-intensive and playful. The new line, launched in spring 2012, is the perfect vehicle to enjoy this gem of a town — outside and in.

›› FURTHER INFORMATION www.ot-montpellier.fr/en To book stays, restaurants, city tours and more, go straight to: www.visitmontpelliernow.com

Clockwise from top left: Hérault brims with stunning relics, such as the medieval town of Saint-Guilhem le Desert here; The Jean Nouveldesigned town hall is one of Montpellier’s many architectural gems; Montpellier offers luxury as well as niche shopping choices; Just 11 kilometres from the Mediterranean, Montpellier is sunny all year.

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Photo: The stunning pool at the fivestar Cap d’Antibes Beach Hotel. Centre: Jazz legend Sonny Rollins will play at the 52nd Jazz à Juan festival in July 2012. Right: Accommodation is elegant and contemporary at the Cap d’Antibes Beach Hotel.

RIVIERA rhythms HIP, HISTORIC AND HOME TO SOME OF THE RIVIERA’S HOTTEST HOTELS, ANTIBES JUAN-LES-PInS DOESN’T MISS A BEAT. BY PERSEPHONE NICHOLAS Antibes Juan-les-Pins, tucked between Cannes and Nice, is a holiday destination that hits all the right notes. Originally a Greek colony dating back to the 4th century, this picturesque city on the French Riviera now attracts visitors from all over the world. Some come for the spectacular scenery (sparkling sapphire waters and cloudless azure skies contrast with the snowy peaks of the distant AlpesMaritimes); others come for the culture (Picasso anyone?). Water sports and festivals, including the famous Jazz à Juan festival, draw many more.

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Vive la vieille Wandering through the narrow cobbled streets of Antibes’ ‘vieille ville’ (old town) is a treat. Stroll past shops, houses and churches, some dating back to the 16th century. Explore ancient squares and courtyards and discover cafés and bars where you can while away an hour or two with a coffee or an apéritif.

Picturing Picasso Picasso lived and worked in Antibes for some years and left a priceless legacy to

the city; the Musée Picasso is a treasure trove of his paintings, sketches and ceramics. The collection also includes works by Nicolas de Stäel, Hans Hartung and Joan Miró. www.antibes-juanlespins.com/ les-musees/picasso

Culture club Set in an ancient olive grove and housed in an architecturally remarkable development, designed by Hans Hartung himself, the Hartung Foundation houses a 16,000-piece collection of origi-

MORE INFORMATION: Office de Tourisme Antibes Juan-les-Pins www.antibesjuanlespins.com nal works (paintings, drawings, engravings, lithographs and photographs) by Hans Hartung and Anna-Eva Bergman. www.fondationhartungbergman.fr

Jazzing it up A hot ticket on the international jazz calendar, the 52nd Jazz à Juan festival takes place from 12 to 22 July in Antibes Juanles-Pins. This year’s line up includes jazz legends Sonny Rollins and Bobby ‘Don’t worry, be happy’ McFerrin. The festival programme includes a ‘Jazz Revelation’ evening to showcase new talent, and an off-festival schedule of free concerts. www.jazzajuan.com

Hip Hotels The five-star Cap d’Antibes Beach Hotel is a contemporary and elegant escape with its own private beach. www.ca-beachhotel. com It has a one-Michelin star restaurant – Les Pecheurs – where chef Philippe Jego

demonstrates his creative flair with the flavours of the south. www.lespecheursjuan.com Dramatically positioned on the southern-most tip of Cap d’Antibes, Hotel Du Cap-Eden-Roc is a deluxe hotel frequented by a well-heeled clientele. Freshly refurbished, the hotel’s décor is contemporary but classic: think wooden floors, white paintwork and fresh floral fabrics. www. hotel-du-cap-eden-roc.com/uk/ Author F. Scott Fitzgerald and his wife, Zelda, famously stayed at the Hotel Belles Rives in the 1930s. This waterfront Art Deco palace on the Cap d’Antibes is as synonymous with luxury today as it was then. www.bellesrives.com

Cote d’Azur French Riviera Tourism www.frenchriviera-tourism.com

Hotel Juana, its five-star sister property, is another Art Deco gem set in forested parkland overlooking the bay of Juan-les-Pins. www.hotel-juana.com The Imperial Garoupe (www.imperialgaroupe.com), a luxury Florentine villa in the upmarket location of cap d’Antibes, and the freshly renovated Marriott Hotel Ambassadeur (www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/jlpbr-hotelambassadeur/), close to the beach in Juan-lesPins, complete this luxurious line up.

ALL ABOUT ABSINTHE A visit to Antibes Juan-les-Pins wouldn’t be complete without a sip or two of the emerald elixir. The Balade en Provence is an absinthe bar tucked away in the basement of an ancient olive oil shop close to the Provençal market. Imagine yourself in the company of Baudelaire, Van Gogh or Toulouse-Lautrec as you sip the intoxicating brew. Other drinks served too. balade06@free.fr

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Left: Display by fireworks theatre company, Groupe F. Right: Giant video installation on the port by Marseille-based digital choreographers, n+n Corsino.

Window to the WORLD BATHED IN SOUTHERN SUNSHINE, MARSEILLE IS FRANCE’S LARGEST MEDITERRANEAN CITY AND PORT, AND IS ABOUT TO GAIN STAR-STATUS WITH A DYNAMIC DESIGN OVERHAUL. BY RUBY BOUKABOU

nown to date as a slightly rundown yet vibrant port city, Marseille is geographically blessed. It has sunny summers, mild winters, an enormous port, a stunning coastline and is just a breeze away from the rest of Europe and North Africa. Its much-anticipated urban renewal project, unveiling in 2013, will transform it into a diamond of a city. But before diving into the future, first visit the past. Take a walk uphill towards the golden Virgin Mary, glowing above the most famous landmark in Marseille – the Basilique Notre Dame de la Garde. Look out to sea and allow yourself to be transported to the world of Alexander Dumas’s The Count of Monte Cristo, set right here. Take a ferry ride, savour fresh seafood and a crisp glass of rosé in a portside restaurant, and relax in the quaint old town, imagining adventures past.

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Design destinations The Mediterranean climate beckons one outdoors in Marseille, so flitting between the galleries, museums and other design attractions is pleasant by bicycle – try the user-friendly Le Vélo public bike scheme. Begin at the tourism office to design your itinerary, or start with these destinations. First stop is the internationally renowned MAC (Musée d’Art Contemporain), where you can browse the works of Daniel Buren, William S. Burroughs and Nan Goldin, to name a few. www.lesartistescontemporains.com/ macmarseille.html For your fix of Picasso, Dufy or César, the Musée Cantini is one of France’s best modern art museums. It reopens in October 2012 after an extensive overhaul. The spectacular MuCEM (Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilisations), designed by Rudy Ricciotti, opens its doors in 2013 with permanent collections and

a busy schedule of exhibitions, seminars, theatre, cinema, concerts and festivals. In the meantime, you can catch exhibitions in the historic Musée du Fort Saint Jean, which will lead to the new museum via walkway. www.mucem.org The Centre Design Marseille, established in 2003, is managed by a collective of local design professionals who organise various projects throughout the year. In 2013, the centre will exhibit ‘100 reasons to love Marseille’, in which design students were given a carte blanche to create graphic, urban, culinary, industrial or sonar designs on this theme. www. designmarseille.org

Cultural rebirth starts January 2013! Alongside its urban renewal, Marseille will be the European Capital of Culture 2013, with events kicking off on the weekend of January 12 to 13. The program is a cross-

MARSEILLE CITY PASS Keen to see more of the city – and pay less? The tourism board’s one or two-day

Clockwise from top right: Looking up at the Virgin Mary of Basilique Notre Dame de la Garde; Urban art installation, Marbre d’Ici, by Stefan Shankland; Aquatic performance by Ilotopie.

passes (costing 22€ and 29€ respectively) give visitors access to 14 museums and other attractions in Marseille. Book in advance through the website: www.marseille-tourisme.com/en/to-organize-your-stay

disciplinary cultural festival encompassing 400 events: around 60 exhibitions, and hundreds of concerts and events during 2013. Many artistic adventures are to be had under the banner of Marseille-Provence 2013, or MP 2013. Some highlights: Circus: Various events planned, including by the national centre for circus arts, and shows involving students and young artists from European and Mediterranean countries.

Literature: To celebrate the 100th anniversary of Albert Camus’ birth, there will be year-long reading room and accompanying events. Cinema: A new festival celebrating Marseille’s North African and Mediterranean influences, with a focus on Arab and Mediterranean film. Street art: Exhibitions to value and promote street culture and arts. Visit www.mp2013.fr for all information.

›› FURTHER INFORMATION Marseille Tourism Office 4, la Canebière + 33 826 500 500 www.marseille-tourisme.com

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The Ballets de Monte Carlo delights audiences from all over the world.

MONACO Masterpiece WITH STUNNING SCENERY, FINE FOOD AND WINE AND A CULTURAL CALENDAR THAT IS SECOND TO NONE, THE PRINCIPALITY OF MONACO ON THE FRENCH RIVIERA IS DESIGNED TO PLEASE. BY PERSEPHONE NICHOLAS

amously fabulous, synonymous with celebrity, the principality of Monaco on the French Riviera was built, quite literally, on a Prince’s dream. Towards the end of the 19th century, the Prince of Monaco decided to create a luxury resort. Its design combined the most elegant casino in Europe with sophisticated hotels, world class shopping and a rich culture embracing the arts, sports and authentic Monégasque art de vivre. Today, that dream is a reality. Monaco and its most famous district, Monte Carlo, are among the most exclusive designer

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destinations in the world. Wherever you choose to stay, eat or be entertained, you will find the principality has been created to please. Not in the Monaco know? Then check out our top tips for style seekers. The Prince’s Palace: Originally a Genoese fortress and built in 1191, the Palace is the official residence of the Prince of Monaco and open to visitors from June to October. Highlights include the royal courtyard, embellished with a collection of 16th-century Genoese frescoes, and geometric designs created using more than three million white and coloured pebbles.

www.palais.mc The Casino Monte Carlo: Set in the grandest of gardens and designed by architect Charles Garnier in the Belle Epoque style, this iconic casino was immortalised in the classic James Bond movies, Never Say Never Again and Golden Eye. The casino is also home to the Grand Théâtre de Monte Carlo, headquarters of the Ballets de Monte Carlo, and an opera house too. www.casinomontecarlo.com The Oceanographic Museum: Spectacularly situated atop a sheer cliff face, this monumental museum is home to a unique collection of marine fauna and

Clockwise from top left: Modern architecture is on the rise in Monte Carlo. There are nearly 100 contemporary sculptures on public display in Monaco. Contemporary dancers perform at the Grand Théâtre de Monte Carlo. The Prince’s Palace is open to visitors from June to October. Monaco on the French Riviera is known for its stunning coastline

offers unparalleled insights into oceanic life. The Shark Lagoon recreates the diversity and drama of the coral reef. www. visitmonaco.com/us/Places-to-visit/ Museums/Oceanographic-Museum The new Musée National de Monaco (NMNM): Located in two strikingly elegant buildings – the Villa Paloma and the Villa Sauber – the museum focuses on modern art, and exhibitions change regularly. www.nmnm.mc The Sculpture Path: Monaco has nearly 100 contemporary sculptures, many by renowned artists, on public display. Find them in municipal parks and gardens, or

follow the special trail through the Fontvieille district. www.visitmonaco. com/en/Places-to-visit/Museums/TheSculpture-Path Monaco Cathedral: This pure white Roman Byzantine-style building is the final resting place of Monaco rulers including Prince Rainier and Princess Grace. The interior features an altarpiece by the 16th century Niçois painter, Louis Bréa, and an Episcopal throne of Carrara white marble. www.visitmonaco.com/en/Placesto-visit/Monuments/Monaco-Cathedral

WHAT’S ON IN MONACO Monaco Yacht Show (19-22 September 2012): The greatest international showcase of luxury yachting. www.monacoyachtshow.com Festival International du Cirque (17-27 January 2013): Roll up, roll up for the most spectacular circus festival in the world. www.montecarlofestival.mc Monte Carlo Rally (January 2013): Thrills (and spills) are guaranteed on this Riviera race. www.acm.mc Monte Carlo Rolex Masters (April 2013): One of the greatest international tennis tournaments, attracting champions and spectators from all over the world. www.monte-carlorolexmasters.com Monaco Grand Prix (May 2013): This iconic car race has set the standard in international motorcar racing since 1929. www.acm.mc Festival de Télévision (June 2013): Stars of the small screen converge in Monaco to celebrate this cornerstone of popular culture. www.tvfestival.com

›› FURTHER INFORMATION Monaco Government Tourist Bureau Aviareps Oceania, Level 5, 68 Alfred Street Milsons Point, NSW 2061 E: monaco.australia@aviareps.com T: +61 2 8666 4696 Direction du Tourisme et des Congrès de Monaco 2a, Boulevard des Moulins 98030 Monaco T: +377 92 16 60 16 French Travel Connection 601, 83 Mount St, North Sydney NSW 2060, Australia T: +61 2 9966 1177 W: www.frenchtravel.com.au

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Réservation : +689.50.84.45 - info@spmhotels.pf - www.spmhotels.com

Visitors to Tahiti regularly spot turtles in the lagoon.

photo: www.tetiaroa.pf photo: www.tetiaroa.pf

Beyond the BLUE lagoon TAHITI AND HER ISLANDS ARE BENEFITING FROM A RAFT OF ECO-FRIENDLY PRACTICES DESIGNED TO HELP KEEP THIS PARADISE PICTURE-PERFECT. BY PERSEPHONE NICHOLAS

tâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hard to imagine a more beautiful place on earth than Tahiti and her islands (officially known as French Polynesia). The tranquil aquamarine waters are alive with jewel-coloured fish, pale golden sands are adorned with perfect palm trees, and the skies are a clear sapphire blue.

A holiday here brings the promise of unforgettable marine encounters; there are more than 800 species of fish in and around the reef, lagoon and ocean. Snorkelers and scuba divers swim among schools of vivid parrot, napoleon and clown fish and sometimes even feed the friendly rays by hand. Twenty different species of dolphins and

whales live in or pass through these waters, and keen-sighted visitors regularly spot rare turtles close to the atolls. With its breathtaking natural beauty and abundant and diverse marine life, Tahiti truly feels like paradise. Happily itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s now more likely to stay that way, thanks to a program of eco-friendly initiatives,

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Photo: V Islands Marketing

Left: Le Maitai hotels are committed to sustainable tourism. Right: The InterContinental Bora Bora Resort and Thalasso Spa is accessible only by boat.

including new luxury eco-resorts and sustainable tourism practices, from some of the leading hoteliers in the region. Tempted to try an eco-conscious trip to Tahiti? Here’s our guide to some reeffriendly resorts:

THE BRANDO: CARBONNEUTRAL LUXURY Marlon Brando first fell in love with Tahiti when he was here to film Mutiny on the Bounty. In fact, he adored the islands so much he bought one for himself. Now, Tetiaroa, a remote island surrounded by pristine waters and home to French Polynesia’s only protected sea bird sanctuary, is the site of a new luxury eco-resort, The Brando, scheduled to open in 2013. The six-star Brando will comprise 35 private villas plus two restaurants, two bars, a spa built over a freshwater lagoon plus staff housing and maintenance areas. The entire development embraces the most rigorous principles of environmental

design. Plans include solar panels, bio-fuel generators, seawater air conditioning and a wastewater management system that filters water so it can be reused for irrigation. By the time the Brando opens to guests next year, it will be solely powered by renewable (that is, non-fossil fuel) sources of energy and produce as much energy as it consumes. At the centre of the development is the Tetiaroa Society, a non-profit organisation dedicated to research, conservation and education about the importance of protecting the biodiversity and fragile ecology of the atoll. tetiaroa.pf

INTERCONTINENTAL BORA BORA RESORT & THALASSO SPA: HARNESSING THE COOLING POWER OF DEEP WATER Tucked between the ‘two hearts’ of Motu Piti Aau, a coral island on the French Polynesian barrier reef, this serene haven

overlooks the famous blue lagoon of the South Pacific and is accessible only by boat. There are 80 overwater villas, each featuring a shaded terrace, sun lounges and a private pontoon with direct access to the lagoon. A truly idyllic destination, it offers outdoor activities aplenty (including canoeing, kayaking, snorkeling and stargazing); the indoor attractions are aweinspiring too. The Deep Ocean Spa in the heart of the resort is almost a destination in itself. Therapies include blissful treatments using pure and mineral-rich deep water drawn from the Pacific Ocean at depths of more than 900 metres. The thalassotherapy spa features glass-floored treatment rooms, steam baths and vistas of Motu Piti Aau. This luxurious resort is a fine example of luxury not costing the earth. The hotel pioneered the use of seawater air-conditioning to deliver environmentally friendly, cost-efficient air-conditioning and refrigeration. The system employs the cooling power of sea water pumped from Right: Overwater bungalows at Le Maitai Bora Bora.

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Photo: V Islands Marketing

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photo: www.tetiaroa.pf

Photo: V Islands Marketing

photo: www.tetiaroa.pf

Clockwise from left: Hotel Le Maitai Bora Bora has 13 traditional Tahitian overwater bungalows; Snorkelers and scuba divers swim among more than 800 species of fish; Tetiaroa is the site of a new luxury eco-resort, The Brando, due to open next year.

900 metres below the Pacific, has reduced the resort’s energy bill by about 40 per cent and is chlorofluorocarbon-free. www. intercontinental.com

HILTON MOOREA LAGOON RESORT AND SPA: 21ST CENTURY SOLAR POWERHOUSE Impressionist painter Paul Gauguin was inspired by the stunning scenery of the island of Moorea, where dramatic mountains seem to disappear into the crystalline waters of the lagoon. The heart-shaped atoll is also known as the ‘island of love’, and each year many visitors are seduced by its beauty and charm. The Hilton Moorea features the best of contemporary Polynesian design in a lush natural setting; accommodation options include well-appointed bungalows set in tropical gardens or built above the incredible turquoise waters of the lagoon. The resort makes the most of Tahiti’s tropical climate; there are almost 200 solar panels on the roofs of the overwater bun-

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galows. These panels supply about 15 per cent of the resort’s electricity needs and about half its hot water, reducing its carbon footprint by around 650 tons each year. The resort is also working to protect and reinvigorate the reef and has introduced Biorock technology along its coastline to help stimulate the growth and regrowth of healthy coral. www1.hilton.com Sister resort Hilton Bora Bora Nui Resort and Spa is just as committed to sustainability; it uses solar panels to create energy and has established Biorock in its reef. www1.hilton.com

LE MAITAI: COMMITTED TO THE ENVIRONMENT There are three Le Maitai hotels in this local chain: on Huahine, Bora Bora and Rangiroa. Huahine is known for its lush vegetation and amazing archaeological sites. Bora Bora, widely known as ‘the Pearl of the Pacific,’ is an island dominated by an ancient volcano overlooking a shimmering aqua lagoon. Rangiroa is the second largest atoll in the world and a paradise for lovers

of marine life. Le Maitai hotels are known for giving guests an authentic Polynesian welcome, and for their commitment to sustainable tourism. All three are EarthCheck-certified. EarthCheck is the world’s largest certifier of sustainable travel and tourism businesses and communities. Its program addresses the major environmental challenges facing the planet, including climate change, waste reduction and non-renewable resource management. Each Le Maitai resort also participates in the international Reef Check program and has an onsite ‘Green Team.’ This is a group of hotel staff members, including the in-house marine biologist and veterinarian, who brainstorm ideas about how to conserve and protect the environment. www.hotelmaitai.com

›› FURTHER INFORMATION Tahiti Now tahitinow.com.au

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Ethexperience French

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Available soon on the

Photo: Oliver Strewe/NCTPS

Photo: Stéphane Ducandas/NCTPS

France sur MER

From left to right: The Coeur de Voh (‘heart of Voh’) on New Caledonia’s west coast; Local snails served beachfront, Isle of Pines; Traditional hut on the east coast, Northern Province.

OFFERING FRENCH AND OCEANIC CULTURE IN EQUAL DOSES, NEW CALEDONIA OFFERS VISITORS A SENSUAL BLEND OF LAZINESS, ACTIVITY AND INDULGENCE. BY JUDITH ELEN

here are dream places on this earth, and tourists go there in droves. Places where everyday life is an irresistible mix of food, wine and culture. France has many such destinations, but perhaps a trip around the globe is not on this year’s agenda. Consider discovering overseas France, La France d’outre-mer. Nouvelle Caledonie is France not just ‘on sea’, but ‘surrounded by sea’. It is French and less than two hours flight from Brisbane (under three from Sydney). New Caledonia is French and Kanak. Sophisticated and easy. It has the allure of its French culture, food and language, and the intrigue and spice of its tropical island home. Slipping in and out in a cruise ship, visitors can so easily miss unexpected finds just out of sight. New Caledonia is to be explored. Indigenous Kanak, French,

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incoming Melanesian and Asian cultures swirl and flow in an intoxicating mix. Kanak tribal culture is alive and well in more than 300 villages. Visit and participate in custom (local-speak for ‘traditional lifestyle customs’) — tourism offices can arrange the details. Contemporary Kanak art and ancient heritage intrigue visitors at Tjibaou Cultural Centre, designed by celebrated Italian architect Renzo Piano, in the capital, Noumea. At Tjibaou, carved tribal poles and jetty masks of wood, hair and feathers are among objects brought home from the Musée du Quai Branly, Paris’s fashionable museum of tribal art. www.adck.nc

AROUND NEW CALEDONIA New Caledonia is an archipelago. The main island, La Grande Terre, with high peaks, rainforests and the coastal capital,

Noumea, is wrapped in 1600 kilometres of coral reef. Tiny islets Le Phare Amédee (with its lighthouse) and Ile aux Canards (with a thatch-roofed restaurant and garden-gallery of local sculpture) are minutes away by water-taxi. The Isle of Pines, a short flight from the capital or two hours by high-speed catamaran, is a hedonistic paradise of luxe accommodation and rustic seclusion. The thing to do here is wade into the warm waters of Oro Bay, round a headland to the next secluded beach, and sit down at Kou-Gny restaurant, where fresh lobster is pulled from the sea and served fresh, ocean to you. The Loyalty Islands — Lifou, Ouvea and Mare — are favourite destinations, and a scatter of less-visited isles and atolls await your discovery. Charter a skippered yacht, or hire your own motorboat and explore. New Caledonia is a prosperous country and lifestyles are sophisticated;

Stéphane Ducandas/NCTPS

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Photo: Oliver Strewe/NCTPS

yet, even in the capital, days are washed with the ease of island life. Visitors blend in. Join in a leisurely round of petanque; you’re likely to find a game underway beneath the trees fringing the bay at Anse Vata.

DINING DELIGHTS With its French inheritance, Noumea is a banquet for food lovers. Restaurants and bars edge the banyan-shaded family beaches of Anse Vata and Baie des Citrons. Le Roof sits on a jetty with traditional thatching overhead. The bay waters flow around its stilts, and into a natural aquarium at its heart. Eat the freshest catch with the sea breeze ruffling your hair. At Nouville, minutes from the city

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centre, 1881 is another overwater restaurant with a romantic view and a long history; alternative tables are indoors, in a beautifully decorated colonial building. Other favourites in Noumea, from high-end hotel dining to richly rustic French fare, are Le 360° (with all-round views and haute cuisine, on Ramada Plaza hotel’s 19th floor); Le Miretti-Gascon (for traditional French Gascon cooking, from snails to local lobster); La Marmite; La Coupole and L’Hippocampe (at Le Méridien). Little local eateries and even the country’s surf camps can be gourmet discoveries. Local crab, lobster and oysters vie with French imports, foie gras, charcuterie and cheeses. Duck, fish and seafood are infused with island-grown herbs, coconut, mango and vanilla or enlivened with

papaya and avocado. Prized beef and venison from Northern Province ranches appear on restaurant tables or in shops (venison sausages, terrines, pâtés). The celebrated names of French cheeses find their way here, from potent pont l’eveque and livarot to camembert, fourme d’amber and fresh white chevre, sought-after unpasteurised cheeses among them. (An annual Festival des Fromages de France, at Le Meridien, is pencilled in for this June.) Bush (brousse) foods – deer, shrimp, coconut, crab, wild hog, fruits – have their local-restaurant specialists, while the traditional kanak bougna is staged at hotels, tribal villages and local restaurants such as Chez Mamie in Sarraméa. This is a feast of lobsters, fish and shellfish, steeped in coconut milk, wrapped in banana leaves

and roasted long hours over hot stones with yams, sweet potatoes, taro, sometimes snails and pigeons, and even, if you dare, the hazelnut-tasting candlenut worm. Pique-nique out and, finally, buy supplies to take home (keeping Australian Customs requirements in mind). The Comtesse du Barry gourmet store (a Paris institution since 1908) has an outlet in Noumea, where you will find patés, galantines, terrines, rillettes and foie gras. Explore duty-free French wines at Le Pavillon des Vins, at Anse Vata, with about 2000 labels, from small-vineyard finds to big names. Or try La Vinotheque, offering three boutiques in Noumea, and intoxicating prices. Pick up chef’s secrets at French cooking classes. And start chattering away in the local lingo.

Photo: Martial Dosdane/NCTPS

Photo: Stéphane Ducandas/NCTPS

From left to right: Selecting pastries in Nouméa; Life on the Loyalty Islands Province, Maré; Sailing on Kuto and Kanuméra bays, Isle of Pines.

THINGS TO TRY In a shuttered, breeze-cooled colonial building in Noumea, CREIPAC (Centre de Rencontres et d’Echanges Internationaux du Pacifique) caters for visitors, from school students to nonagenarians. Held year-round in two-week batches, classes can include cultural visits to museums, markets or day excursions to tribal villages. And morning classes leave afternoons free. www.creipac.nc Sail, surf, snorkel and dive among fish and coral in psychedelic hues, off the beaches and in the reef. Drive, trek or ramble in the Blue River Park nature reserve, an hour-and-a-half east of Noumea, or along the rainforest trails of Mont Koghi, 15 minutes drive from the city. Delve into history at the Museum of

New Caledonia and explore exhibits at the Maritime Museum, where you can trace Lapérouse’s lost ships. Shop, fish; relax under a tree. Watch the sunset over Anse Vata. Find a bay-side stool at Bodega del Mar tapas bar, order a jug of sangria and settle in.

FURTHER INFORMATION Tourism New Caledonia www.newcaledonia.com.au Office de Tourisme de Nouvelle Calédonie www.office-tourisme.nc Ville de Nouméa www.ville-noumea.nc

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Left: Sandra Sully, Claire Kaletka-Neil and Helen Greenwood.

Below: Robin de Michelena with his wife, Marine; Emmanuelle Granados.

Left: Thomas Benhamou with Julien Marteau.

Atout France BASTILLE Day WHAT: LUNCHTIME CELEBRATION OF BASTILLE DAY AND THE 10TH ANNIVERSARY OF VIVE LA FRANCE MAGAZINE, HELD 14 JULY LAST YEAR.

unch hosted together with corporate partners Air Austral, Peugeot, Pernod Ricard and Vittoria. Where: Félix, Sydney. Who: French luxury brand directors including Philip Corne (Louis Vuitton), Joelle Saadia (L’Oreal) and Robin de Michelena (Peugeot); editor Kirsty Clements

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of Vogue; news presenter Sandra Sully; and more. Highlights: Guests enjoyed a cosy few hours’ escape from the chill outside: a delectable three-course lunch, prizes from the likes of Louis Vuitton, Vittoria, G.H. Mumm, and Moutarde de Burgundy, and a smoky chanson performance by chanteuse Caroline Nin.

Above: Sweet creation by Félix.

Right: Topiary created for each table, using red (bordeaux wine), white (vanilla) and blue (blue cheese) macarons.

Top: Claire KaletkaNeil and Marc Cherrier. Left: Peter Berman, Fiona Carruthers and Stephanie Oley.

Right: Alison Roberts-Brown and Mark Baulderstone.

Above: Brisbane-born former Paris showgirl, Shay Stafford, pictured with and her cabaret memoir and John Hemmes of Merivale Group. Patrick Benhamou, with powdered wig, tricolour bow tie and flirtatious courtier.

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Saint-Tropez PARTY WHAT: EARLY SUMMER COCKTAIL PARTY ON 22 NOVEMBER IN MELBOURNE AND 24 NOVEMBER IN SYDNEY, HELD TO LAUNCH THE EXHIBITION ‘STAR SPOTTING IN SAINT TROPEZ’

soirée hosted in conjunction with Saint-Tropez Tourism, Air France and Peugeot, to promote the glamorous Riviera town. Where: The Sofitel on Collins, Melbourne, and Sofitel Wentworth, Sydney Who: Saint-Tropez tourist office director Claude Maniscalco; Vittoria Coffee head Les Schirato; and more.

Highlights: The 200-plus guests were serenaded by Vitamine Jazz Band and browsed photos from the exhibition, a showcase of some of the world’s biggest stars en vacances in Saint Tropez: Brigitte Bardot, Elton John, Kylie Minogue, Hugh Jackman, Princess Diana, The Rolling Stones and many more. They also got to drool over a parade of ‘Sin Tropez’ beachwear by French label Kiwi Saint-Tropez, and sip from a nonstop flow of Minuty rosé and Pommery champagne.

Left: Miss Universe Australia model Scherri-Lee Biggs (right) with friend. Right: Members of the renowned Vitamine Jazz Band strike a pose.

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Models show off a Riviera vibe in swimwear by Kiwi Saint-Tropez (main); a parade of vintage Air France uniforms (below).

Top: Arnaud Tartour in Kiwi Saint-Tropez. Centre: Thomas Reeves, Claude Maniscalco and Jean-Marc Carriol.

More Riviera style from Kiwi Saint-Tropez.

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Hotel restaurant – ‘L’Hotel. The interior is sophisticated and decadent, and their organic chocolate gianduja dessert is incredible.’

Paris art collection ‘The Musée Guimet’s beautiful collection of Chinese Buddhist art from the cave temples.’

Paris restaurant ‘Le Bistro de Paris, at 33 rue de Lyon. It’s a classic bistro that serves dishes like leek vinaigrette. My French friends love this place.’

Favourite French design – ‘The quirky Citroën. When I bought a 2CV in the 1970s, my friends called it a ‘sewing machine on wheels’. Citroën’s showroom on the Champs-Élysées is brilliant.’

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Spectacular historic building ‘The baroque château of Vaux-le-Vicomte, in Seine-etMarne — a magnificent, extravagant building.’

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THE LONG-RUNNING DIRECTOR OF THE ART GALLERY OF NEW SOUTH WALES (FROM 1978 TO 2011), DR EDMUND CAPON, AM OBE, IS NOW A SOUGHT-AFTER PUBLIC SPEAKER AND ACADEMIC. HERE, HE REFLECTS ON HIS FAVOURITE FRENCH EXPERIENCES.

Must-return destination ‘Saint-Paul de Vence. The Fondation Maeght museum there is like an artistic Shangri-La in the hills.’

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Art collection outside Paris ‘Musée Fabre in Montpellier, which has a painting I find most amusing – ‘Bonjour Monsieur Corbett’, by Corbett.’

Best new architecture ‘The Centre PompidouMetz. Like all great buildings, it has a wonderful association between inside and outside.’

Fondest personal memory ‘Seeing [sculptor and drunkard] Giacometti join a Paris dinner party one night in the 1960s, and leave with a girl I was keen on. She was 45 years his junior!’

Looking forward to now ‘Visiting London, Rome and Paris this spring. Paris is a wonderful city for walking and for people-watching – two of my favourite activities.’

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