Rendez vous en France No.3 2014 by Rendezvous

VI VE L A FRANCE N0 3 2 014

LE MAGAZINE

Gourmet

DUCASSE bons Bistrots

Heritage

Footsteps of the diggers

fish and chic

LIFESTYLE I GOURMET I ACCOMMODATION I DESTINATION I PORTRAIT |

photography by Warren & nick

perrier-jouĂŤt, the alluring champagne Since its foundation in 1811, the champagne house perrier-jouĂŤt has crafted elegant, floral wines of rare finesse with a chardonnay hallmark. the elegance of the cuvees echoes that of the art nouveau anemones adorning the Belle epoque bottle and offers moments of pure delight and beauty. www.perrier-jouet.com

please drink responsibly

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Bon appétit! HIPSTER FOODIES REJOICE – FRANCE REMAINS

UNRIVALLED WHEN

s France approaches five years

IT COMES TO FINE

since UNESCO designated its cuisine an intangible cultu-

FLAVOURS, AND

ral asset, we thought it fitting to dedicate this magazine to

HANDCRAFTED

French food.

WINES AND TABLE

After all, food and wine remain among the

top reasons for travelers to visit France – and

ETIQUETTE TO

often return. French cuisine is rich in traditions, like breads, cheeses and the thousands

MATCH. THAT’S WHY

of regional variations on any dish. It’s also rife

IT’S THE THEME OF

with newer innovations: the popularity of kitchen gardens and exotic ingredients; the rise

THIS YEAR’S

of young chefs and female chefs; and the surge in popularity of organic wines.

RENDEZ-VOUS

In this issue, we bring you the latest news from

EN FRANCE.

the Alain Ducasse empire (pages 30–33), insights from the Michelin guide team (pages 52–53), and overviews of the best places to wine and dine. We feature regions extending from Normandy and Alsace in the north, to Bordeaux, the Riviera and Monaco in the south. Shopping and luxury are two other enduring attractions for visitors to France, which is why we’ve featured magnificent accommodations and must-have buys – such as couture swimwear and lingerie by Eres, and shoes by Louboutin. Bon voyage en France… and make sure you bring your appetite !

Patrick Benhamou Director Atout France France Tourism Development Agency, Australia and New Zealand patrick.benhamou@atout-france.fr TONS RECOMMANDÉS (3)

MINEFI MIN_11_0000_RdVFrance_P Date le 22/06/2011 A NOUS RETOURNER SIGNÉE AVEC VOTRE ACCORD OU VOS CORRECTIONS

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RENDEZ-VOUS EN FRANCE 2014 DIRECTOR OF PUBLICATIONS Christian Mantei EDITOR Stephanie Oley ART DIRECTOR Yolanda Koning SUBEDITING & PROOFREADING Rebecca Haddad, Paula Towers COVER PHOTOGRAPHY Harry Johnson. Model: Hilary Gilbert. PUBLISHER Peter Berman CONTRIBUTORS Ruby Boukabou, Vanessa Couchman, Sally Hammond, Ella Lombardi, Persephone Nicholas Printed in China ATOUT FRANCE AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND France Tourism Development Agency Editorial, Production and Sales Team: Patrick Benhamou, Sophie Almin, Claire Kaletka-Neil, Charline Joly, Pascaline Biron, Vanille Brisard, Garance Garcia L13, 25 Bligh Street Sydney NSW 2000 Australia T: +61 2 9231 5243 F:+ 61 2 9221 8682 www.rendezvousenfrance.com

Become our Facebook fan www.facebook.com/AtoutFranceAU Follow us on Twitter twitter.com/AtoutFranceAU Watch new content on YouTube www.youtube.com/user/frenchtouristoffice

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Cannes 15 Dazzle and dine Nice 16 Pictures of a promenade

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Galeries Lafayette 29 Style file Monaco 36 Best dressed |

G O U R M E T

Antibes-Juan lesPins

South of France 45 Some like it hot

Riviera-Côte d’Azur

Montpellier 50 Sun kissed

19 Coast to coast

20 Here comes the sun

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Grand Est 56 Head over heels Dijon 62 Talk of the terroir | A C C O M M O D AT I O N |

Terre Blanche 64 Provençal dreaming Le Meurice 67 Palace dining

George V 73 Crème de la crème |HISTORY & H E R ITAGE|

Paris and its region 75 A moveable feast

D E S T I N AT I O N

Aquitaine-Bordeaux 94 Eat drink south west Bordeaux 96 Of wines divine

Nord Pas de Calais New Caledonia 98 Paradise found 82 Bitter sweet Tahiti Normandy 102 Eat, play, love 88 In good taste MAGAZINE

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cannes-destination.com

palaisdesfestivals.com

THE WORLD COMES TO CANNES. WHAT ABOUT YOU ?

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Cannes

Dazzle and DINE Cannes’ famous harbourside boulevard, La Croisette (photo © Ajuria); vibrant produce at the Forville Market (photo © palaisdesfestivals); local fishing boats at the harbour (photo © Pieuchot).

DAZZLING CANNES ON THE FRENCH RIVIERA IS FAMOUS FOR MORE THAN ITS LUMINOUS SUNSHINE AND CELEBRITY SPOTTING. BY RUBY BOUKABOU

achts, luxury boutiques, sandy beaches, the world’s most prestigious film festival and 300 days of sunshine a year are typical reasons to visit Cannes. But it’s not just the weather and the red carpet frocks that are delicious here. Over 300 establishments offer memorable dining experiences and the freshest of local produce. Below is a small selection of the best.

CLASSIC CUISINE The Carlton’s chef Laurent Bunel famously cooks with organic produce to create delicious, clean taste combinations (www.intercontinental-carlton-cannes.com/en). At Mantel, dive into a meal of rock octopus, veal or lamb with homemade bread (www.restaurantmantel.com); for

the chic rooftop terrace experience, head to Michelin-starred The Sea Sens (www.five-seashotel-cannes.com).

BEACHSIDE BLISS Cannes’ beach restaurants are naturally all about the seafood. Try Bijou Plage for delicious soup or grilled fish (www.bijouplagecannes. com), L’Ondine for the white wine and lobster (www.ondineplage.com/en) or Vegaluna for the family ambiance and delicious summery dishes with mango and ginger (www.vegaluna.com).

EXOTIC INFLUENCES Voyage beyond France for an evening at the cosy Moroccan Riad, a favourite for the industry during the Cannes film festival (www.

restaurant-le-riad.fr), have a Lebanese lunch at Al-Charq (www.alcharq.com) or get your sashimi-and-wasabi hit at Wasabi d’Azur (www. wasabidazur.com). Every morning (since 1870!) except Monday, local fishermen sell their catch at the Forville Market. Check out what’s looking tasty so you can order it for lunch later. Then pop into the Cave du marché, with its wide range of organic wines, for a crisp apéro and practice your French with the locals. Further Information Palais des Festivals et des Congrès Cannes www.palaisdesfestivals.com www.cannes-destination.com

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Shopping for flowers at Cours Saleya (photo: OTCN/H Lagarde).

Aerial view of the Nice waterfront (photo: OTCN/A Issock).

Nice

Pictures of a PROMENADE OLD-WORLD CHARM, A CULTURAL BUZZ AND LIBERAL DOSES OF MEDITERRANEAN SUNSHINE COME TOGETHER IN NICE, STILL ONE OF FRANCE’S MOST CHARMING CITIES.

rom the graceful curve of its iconic Promenade des Anglais to the buzz of its city centre, Nice is a city made for walking. A gentle riot of aromas, flavours, history and encounters await at Vieux Nice, or the Old Town, a triangle of baroque buildings and squares just in from the promenade. Start at Place Masséna, an elegant plaza bordered by a suite of designer flagship stores. Follow rue St François de Paule until you reach Cours Saleya (or ‘Corso’ in the local Nissart dialect), a morning market that bristles with the colours of its fruit, vegetable and flower stands. 16

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Soak up the Mediterranean atmosphere at the cafés and bistros pressing in all around. Soft ochre-coloured buildings line the alleyways and side streets that lead to other squares, such as Place Garibaldi and Place Rossetti. The precinct is surprisingly cool even in summer, thanks to the awning and stone walls that characterise most buildings, and the cross-ventilation throughout. Sit in the shade of Cathédrale SainteRéparate at Place Rossetti, or under the awning of a café, and sip a cool drink or coffee before heading up to Castle Hill for a view over the city. From there it’s back down to the foreshores of

beautiful Baie des Anges, host to 25 intimate pebbled beaches.

NIÇOISE NIBBLES Think Nice cuisine, think the eponymous bistro salad – salade Niçoise. The city offers many more distinctive dishes, and a good way to find them is by seeking out the ‘Cuisine Nissarde’ stickers inside the windows of specialty restaurants. A good-value choice is L’escalinada (www.escalinada.fr), where locals fill tightly packed tables that peek out from behind the striped awning, spilling out onto the pavement.

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EVENTS IN 2014 June: Ironman July: Nice Jazz Festival August: Prom Parties November: Marathon Nice–Cannes December: Christmas Village 13 February to 1 March, 2015: Nice Carnival

The fare is down-to-earth and subtly southern – bistro classics such as beef filet with mushroom sauce feature alongside tender, fresh octopus salad and stuffed sardines. Equally rustic, romantic and reasonably priced is Lu Fran Calin ( www.lufrancalin.fr) at place Halle aux Herbes. This long-time favourite is known for its generous pasta dishes and Niçoise favourites, including panisse (chickpea fritters), petits farcis (little stuffed vegetables) and homemade lasagne, ravioli and gnocchi. Lou Balico (www.loubalico.com) also serves top-quality southern French food such as salade Niçoise, daube (beef stewed in a red wine sauce) and beignets – fritters of zucchini flower, eggplant, prawns – to name a few. Need a quick snack between meals? Socca, a chickpea-based flatbread cooked on an iron griddle, makes a tasty and nutritious choice. It’s usually eaten outside the socca stand, served piping hot with a dash of pepper. There are several socca stalls dotted around Nice’s outdoor squares and markets, including at Cours Saleya.

Clockwise from top left: Outdoor art at Place Masséna (photo: OTCN/E Belin); Mediterranean flavours; outdoor dining at Cours Saleya (photos: OTCN/J Kelagopian).

CITYSIDE VINEYARDS Nice is the only city in France to have an AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) vineyard within its jurisdiction. On the hills of Bellet, just 15 kilometres from the city centre, a handful of producers tend unusual grape varieties that yield bold red wines, aromatic whites and fresh rosés. Be sure to sample as many as you can – they are hard to find outside Nice.

Further Information Nice Tourism www.nicetourism.com +33 (0) 892 707 407

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Antibes Juan-les-Pins

Coast to COAST

Clockwise from above: The Roman-era coastal ramparts of Antibes (photo © Claude Piot); macaron tower by Jean-Luc Pelé; recent performance at Jazz à Juan (photo © Gilles Lefrancq).

A RELAXED MEDITERRANEAN RETREAT THAT HAS INSPIRED CREATIVE RESIDENTS FOR DECADES, ANTIBES HAS A FLAVOUR ALL OF ITS OWN. BY RUBY BOUKABOU.

short drive from the international airport of Nice, Antibes, in the heart of the Côte d’Azur, is one of southern France’s most legendary seaside destinations. Claude Monet, F Scott Fitzgerald, Ernest Hemingway and Quentin Tarantino are some of the famous faces who have enjoyed its superb weather, restaurants and ambience; these days, culinary attractions complete the picture for visitors. Enjoy a Michelin-starred experience in the old town and under the branches of a fig tree. Chef Christian Morisset’s Le Figuier de Saint Esprit (www.restaurant-figuier-saint-esprit.com) revisits and reinvents French dishes with zest.

It’s a family affair, with wife Josiane as host and son Jordan in the kitchen alongside chef Christophe Griss. Specialities include the lamb and excellent fresh fish with seasonal vegetables. Also Michelin-starred is Les Pêcheurs (www.lespecheurs.com), in the Cap d’Antibes Beach Hotel, which ushers diners onto a large terrace overlooking the sea. Fancy a more local pick-me-up, perhaps after a mid-afternoon swim? Try the delicate, delicious pastries of Christian Cottard at his eponymous patisserie (www.patisserie-cottard-antibes.fr). Take away or enjoy such delicacies in the salon de thé. Over at Atelier

du Vieil Antibes (www.jeanlucpele.com), the increasingly famous Jean Luc Pelé offers a profusion of chocolates, macarons and pastries, and you can peep through the windows to admire the pastry chefs deep in concentration. Jazz lover? Antibes’ prestigious Jazz à Juan festival is on from 11–20 July, with highlights this year including Stacey Kent and Gregory Porter. Further Information Antibes Juan-les-Pins Tourist Office www.antibesjuanlespins.com

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Riviera Côte d’Azur

Here comes the SUN

FOR RUSTIC FRENCHY CHARM THAT IS BOTH GLAMOROUS AND AUTHENTIC, THE CÔTE D’AZUR IS THE PLACE TO BE, WRITES RUBY BOUKABOU.

dyllic countryside villas, glorious al fresco dining, ritzy shopping and both public and exclusive beach clubs remain enduring attractions of the French Riviera and Côte d’Azur. With mild winters, splendid summers and dazzling vistas, the French Riviera in the south east of France once inspired painters including Matisse and Van Gogh, and was the playground of the likes of Brigitte Bardot. It still attracts international music and cinema stars, including Charlotte Rampling, Beyonce and Nicole Kidman, for both work and play. (‘Grace of Monaco’, starring Kidman, was shot in Monaco, Cannes, Antibes and Menton; each May, Cannes hosts the most prestigious film festival on the planet). It’s the Hollywood of Europe, and very French. Which means? Eating and drinking well – incredibly well. Over 40 establishments here have Michelin stars, with internationally renowned chefs creating inventive spins on traditional dishes. Here are just a few of the names to know.

CATCH OF THE DAY Alain Ducasse is a reference for simple and refined Mediterranean dishes, and offers two restaurants in the Riviera – in St Tropez and Monaco (www.alain-ducasse.com). In Menton, try the famous Mirazur restaurant (www.mirazur.fr/en) by French-trained Argentine chef, Mauro Colagreco. The 1930s-style restaurant faces the Mediterranean as well as its own magnificent kitchen garden, and serves a fresh, original, tasty brand of French cuisine. It also features a bar and terrace where one can watch the chefs at work through large glass windows. Classic local dishes include pissaladière (onion tart), ravioli, gnocchi, daube (beef stewed in wine), stockfish, ratatouille, petits farcis Niçoise (little stuffed vegetables), tourte de blette (Swiss chard tart) and, of course, the world-famous salade Niçoise. They can be found everywhere, but look for the ‘Cuisine Niçoise’ logo on restaurant windows to be sure.

Left: Traditional confections being made at Confiserie Florian (photo © CRT Côte d’Azur). Right: sunbaked tiles and Mediterranean blue waters near Nice (photo © CRT Côte d’Azur: R Palomba).

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Above: Socca flatbread being cooked on a grill (photo © Anthony Lanneretonne).

Olive oil is an essential ingredient in this cuisine. You can visit a traditional 19th century oil mill in Nice (www.alziari.com.fr), or in the countryside in Grasse (Moulin de la Brague). For those with a sweet tooth, local pastries and desserts of all shapes and sizes can be bought at the boutiques and factories of Florian Confiserie in Nice and in Tourrettessur-Loup (www.confiserieflorian.com). Or you could dive into one of the outrageously good chocolate caves run by chocolatier Jean Luc Pelé (www.jeanlucpele.com), who has three boutiques on the French Riviera, the newest being in Antibes. Inspired by all these ingredients? Learn to rattle the pans in an authentic village setting, with cooking classes at the family run bed and breakfast The Frogs’ House (www.thefrogshouse. fr) in Saint-Jeannet village. Under the expert guidance of host Corinne Benoit, you’ll be able to shop for the produce at local markets, lunch with the group, and then merrily cook the afternoon away for the three-course evening meal. MAGAZINE

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A CCO MMO DAT IO N Left: The charming medieval village of Saint Jeannet (photo © Velorizons).

Below: Al fresco dining (photo © Christophe Ichou).

FROM THE VINE Wine is a part of life on the Côte, and the accompanying rituals equally essential. For an apéro, a crisp rosé served on a terrace is de rigeur; for meals, restaurateurs will help you match the perfect wine with their delicate dishes. Learn more about the local wines with a visit to local cellars such as La Petite Cave de St Paul (www.cavesaintpaul.fr), an 18th century wine cellar run by sommelier Frédéric Theys. The cellar offers tastings with various themes, such as cheese and wine, Tour de France and a master class in Grands Crus. For a unique wine-tasting experience, take a shuttle boat from Cannes to St Honorat Island (20 minutes) for the Lérins Abbey (www.abbaye delerins.com). A vineyard of just eight hectares, tended by monks, the abbey produces wines sought after by local chefs, and available at select outlets if you don’t make it to the island. For a trip back in time, and perhaps another dimension, wander the old town of Antibes and descend to the subterranean Bar à Absinthe (25, Cours Masséna à Antibes, Tel +33 (0) 4 93 34 93 00). Bring your pen and paper in case the muse strikes, so you can capture your southern French experience as the Romantics did, with a poem. Or perhaps with a tweet or Instagram. Further Information Côte d’Azur Tourisme www.cotedazur-tourisme.com 22

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Hotel Napoleon : a new 5 star in Paris Behind the history of the hotel, hides a love story…. The love story between a rich Russian businessman, Alexander Pavlovich Kliaguine, and a young french student who first met at a “literature salon” in 1928. It was love at first sight. In order to introduce her to Parisian “high society” at the time, he bought a hotel in the prestigious 8th arrondissement and gave it to her as a wedding present. Still today the hotel belongs to the Kliaguine family. Today, following a large renovation program, the hotel is proud to announce its 5th star.

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News

Passport

OUR PICK OF THE BEST FRENCH – AND ARMCHAIR TRAVELS – FOR 2014.

JOURNEYS

The portside setting of Marseille’s spectacular MuCEM (photo © Lisa Ricciotti/ Architectes Rudy Ricciotti et Roland Carta).

Museum

Celebrate

Last year’s opening of MuCEM (Musée des civilisations de l’Europe et de la Méditerranée) brought another wonderful museum to Marseille, as well as reviving the port city’s identity as a 2,000-yearold Mediterranean epicentre. Permanent exhibitions include the Gallery of the Mediterranean J4, which showcases antiquities, fine arts and more from four Mediterranean civilisations. MuCEM also hosts a nonstop calendar of temporary exhibitions and events. Visit the website for details on tickets, which include entry to the nearby Fort Saint-Jean. www. mucem.org/en

Purveyors of prestige cutlery for more than 150 years, design house Christofle has teamed with champagne house Perrier-Jouët to create buckets that keep the prized tipple cooled at an optimum 6˚C. The Anemone series is simple, beautiful and inspired by the company’s famous Art Nouveau collections. The champagne bowl pictured measures 70 centimetres in diameter and holds an impressive nine bottles. Available through Pavillon Christofle in Sydney’s Double Bay. www.tableact.com.au/ christofle

Culture club

Ice queen

Launch of Vittoria’s deluxe tea brand, La Maison du Thé.

Tea

Pot luck What is the secret to making the perfect cup of tea? Table etiquette and pre-warmed teapots aside, quality is paramount. That’s why Australian coffee aficionado, Vittoria, has partnered with French master

tea blenders to develop La Maison du Thé, a new luxury label now available Australia-wide at select grocers and providores. The delicately handcrafted teas come in five subtle, aromatic blends – from the fullbodied English Breakfast to the sensuous Darjeeling. Available in silky nylon teabags, with loose-leaf brews served at top tearooms and hotels. www.vittoriafandb.com

Oversized champagne bowl created by Christofle and Perrier-Jouët. MAGAZINE

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Film

Day of daring

Alain Ducasse and participating chefs prepare for Tous au Restaurant (photo: © Clément Françoise).

Dine

Deluxe for a day Top French dining at half the usual price? Mais oui! That’s the philosophy behind Tous au Restaurant (‘everyone to the restaurant’), the one-week dining event that entitles restaurant patrons to one free meal for every one purchased. The initiative includes some 1,000 restaurants in cities from Paris to every corner of France. Tous au Restaurant was conceived by the inimitable Alain Ducasse and includes all of his restaurants. Primp your tastebuds and reach for the guidebooks again this September 15 – 22. www.tousaurestaurant.com/en

Get ready for the launch of ‘D-Day: Normandy 1944’, a largeformat documentary shot in 3D. Drawing on striking new techniques such as animated cartography and sand animation, the film brings to life one of the greatest war strategies of all times. Early on 6 June, 1944, an armada of almost

7,000 Allied war ships and 150,000 personnel landed on five beaches of Normandy, after months of intensive planning and secrecy that even included a misinformation campaign tricking Germany into action elsewhere. It was the bloody 100-day battle of Normandy which largely contributed to the Allied victory. Catch the film at IMAX theatres globally(Australian dates are still being confirmed). www.DDay-Normandy1944.com

is a system that recognises an establishment’s efforts to uphold all tenets of French gastronomy, from the number of courses served to the ingredients used, interior styling and more. Look for the hallmark when you’re out, or browse the 1,000 member restaurants across France on the organisation’s website. www.maitresrestaurateurs. com/en

Narrated by Tom Brokaw, ‘D-Day: Normandy 1944’ is a celebration of freedom from wartime (photo © Archive/Omaha Beach).

Hallmark Badge of honour

While we’re on the subject of fine dining, there’s another way for gourmets to experience perfect French cuisine (a UNESCO intangible cultural asset, after all, since 2010). The French Association of Maître Restaurateur

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Chef Xavier Isabal of Ithurria restaurant in Aïnhoa, Basque country, a participating institution of Maître Restaurateur.

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Rooftop rendez-vous Rounding out Paris’ compelling rooftop bar scene is the top-floor terrace bar offered in the summer months by luxury boutique Hotel Raphael, ideally located in Piazza Navona. Lush flowers, a giant marble chessboard and linen sun umbrellas shape an old-world atmosphere, complemented by the menu conceived by esteemed champagne house, Perrier-Jouët. Sip on a Raphael (Grand Brut, strawberry puree, lime and Manzana Verde), the cocktail designed especially for the location, while admiring intimate views over the city’s iconic Eiffel Tower and

Vivid greenery and spectacular scenery at Hotel Raphael’s rooftop bar.

Arc de Triomphe as well as further afield. www.raphael-hotel.com

Alain Ducasse and Christophe Michalak sample the standout choux pastries (photo © Pierre Monetta). Luxurious utensils and rich finishes feature on the Pic Nic trunk by Pinel & Pinel

Trunk

Sweet

Proudly France’s youngest prestige brand, Pinel & Pinel is a luggage maker with an attitude. Their wallets, bags and other everyday accessories are plain gorgeous, with vibrant colour schemes offset by delicious textures. But their trunks are extravagant pieces designed to transport expensive hobbies for consumers with attitude – the Soprano Trunk, for example, is a sophisticated sound system that folds into one sleek case, and the Pic Nic, pictured, is an alfresco dining set complete with champagne refrigeration. All are tailormade for clients by founder, master craftsman and designer Fred Pinel. www.pineletpinel.com

Visiting the Musée du quai Branly, and in need of a quick and tasty street snack afterwards? Then head straight to Choux d’Enfer at rue Jean Rey, Quai Branly. As the name suggests, choux pastries are the core offering – and they’re available in sweet and savoury variations (from cheese or curry to coffee or chocolate). It’s run by celebrity pâtissier Christophe Michalak and backed by Alain Ducasse. Munch them just outside the stand or wander over to nearby Pont de Bir-Hakeim for an impromptu picnic. www.christophemichalak.com

In the bag

If the choux fits

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The distinctive dome and façade of Galeries Lafayette (photo © Yann Kersalé).

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A LEGEND IN ITS OWN RIGHT, GALERIES LAFAYETTE OFFERS FABULOUS FASHIONS, FOOD AND SAVOIR-FAIRE IN THE ELEGANT RIGHT BANK OF PARIS.

ince its founding in an exquisite space just off rue la Fayette in 1893, Galeries Lafayette has sought to bring Parisians the styles of the times. The store is renowned for its sophisticated and always-new selection of brands, emerging and established alike. Yet Galeries Lafayette has grown over the years to provide much more. The iconic location in Paris’ 9th arrondissement has been expanded over the years to occupy a 70,000-square-metre monolith, built in 1912 and topped by a Neo-Byzantine dome that is recognised the world over. Galeries Lafayette’s shoe department is reputedly the largest in Europe. Its fashion and accessories lineup caters to all ages, and a much-publicised annual fashion gala – the Galeries Lafayette Fashion Festival – is testimony to the store’s commitment to the style forefront.

As it’s easy to spend a whole day here, Galeries Lafayette also caters generously to hungry shoppers of all inclinations. Fancy a bite of sushi, a bowl of Sichuan noodles, a delicate pot of Earl Grey tea amid the chic hubbub, or a chilled flute of champagne overlooking the grand central atrium? Choose from more than 10 full-service or takeaway eateries. For shoppers wanting to take home a little of Paris’ finest flavours, Lafayette Gourmet offers 10,000 superb products sourced from throughout France and the globe. Its Wine Library has 3,000 fine labels on offer, while the Bordeauxthèque has 1,000 top drops from that region alone. It’s hard to walk away without buying anything. Further Information Galeries Lafayette haussmann.galerieslafayette.com/en

Top: Eric Kayser pâtisserie and Petrossian deli at Lafayette Gourmet. Below: designer wines and lines at Bordeauxthèque.

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This page: Participants at the cooking school (photo © Pierre Monetta). Opposite: The inimitable Alain Ducasse at work (photo © Philippe Petit).

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Gourmet

Recipe for SUCCESS FROM LOBSTER TO LANGOUSTINES AND SOUFFLÉ TO MILLEFEUILLE, ALAIN DUCASSE HAS SERVED HIS SHARE OF SIGNATURE DISHES. FRESH OFF THE MENU IS DUCASSE’S EPONYMOUS COOKING SCHOOL AND A NEW BISTRO, ALLARD. BY ELLA LOMBARDI

rench-born and Monaco-based, chef and businessman Alain Ducasse has been wowing gourmet circles for decades. Since winning his first three Michelin stars at the age of 33 (for Le Louis XV at the Hotel de Paris in Monaco), Ducasse has gone on to hold a mind-boggling 21 Michelin stars throughout his career. This culinary maestro has impressively taken French gastronomy to the world. He is the only chef in history to have been awarded three Michelin stars in three restaurants in three different countries – France, Monaco and the UK. With over 30 years in the restaurant industry, Ducasse’s superior reputation and innovative cuisine contributed to his receiving a Lifetime Achievement Award last year from The Diners Club World’s 50 Best Restaurants Academy.

He has had an indisputable influence over a global generation of chefs and restaurateurs and is held in high regard by his peers. In 2012, no less than 240 of the world’s top chefs flew in from 25 countries to pay homage to Ducasse in the lavish dining room of Le Louis XV restaurant in Monaco, to celebrate its 25th anniversary. But Ducasse is not just an ambassador of superb French cuisine. He is also a handson practitioner and an enormously successful businessman, who now runs a €20 billion ($AUD 32 billion) empire of 24 restaurants in exceptional addresses across eight countries. Born in southwestern France’s Les Landes region 57 years ago, Ducasse’s introduction to the culinary arts was thanks to his grandmother. The aromas of her traditional cooking would rise up to greet him throughout the house, from morning until late.

By the age of 12, he knew that he wanted to be a chef. “My first memory is of the smells, my second is of the taste of her food. I have in my head the original taste of a tomato, a cucumber, an onion, a lettuce. Feeding yourself from nature: that’s true luxury, absolute and elemental,” he says. It is this memory as well as a belief in simple flavours that have formed the ideology behind the varied and impeccable Ducasse offering, from multi-ethnic concepts to haute cuisine and casual bistros, bastions of classical French cuisine. “Today, cuisine has no borders,” says Ducasse. “What’s most important is to be the interpreter of what you find locally, where you are.” Ducasse and his team have nurtured and trained a generation of chefs, many of whom are now also part of the world’s culinary elite.

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The bar at Bistro Allard (all photos in this spread © Pierre Monetta).

BISTRO BARON Ducasse’s respect of French techniques and traditions has seen him recently add famed Paris institution, Allard, to his stable of historic bistros. The chef has breathed new life into Allard’s menu and restored its faded glory by offering classic French fare, done simply and done well. “Each restaurant must have a personality, the sentiment of the man or woman who made it, who gave their touch (and) their ideas,” Ducasse explains. “That makes itself felt.” A longtime neighbourhood favourite, the bistro was opened in the 1930s by Marthe and Marcel Allard, and has been run by the family since. Allard has a reputation for warm hospitality and fine, Burgundy-influenced cooking, with many dishes on the menu for some 20 years. Allard joins the ranks of Ducasse’s other bistros, including Aux Lyonnaise and Benoît, in being restored to its former glory. As well as boasting a sepia-toned vintage dining room and an address in the chic Saint-Germain-de-Près left bank, Allard symbolises French tradition with sentimental, local cuisine that is part of the nation’s culinary memory.

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As is the case at Ducasse’s numerous haute cuisine addresses, this classic French bistro upholds Ducasse’s mantra that: “Tasting a dish should be memorable. If nothing remains in the memory of a single guest, then I have made a mistake.” In Ducasse’s case, those mistakes seem few and far between. This imaginative chef and passionate mentor’s empire continues to expand. Increasingly a champion of making everything from scratch, Ducasse opened an artisanal chocolate-making facility in Paris last year. Called Manufacture du Chocolat Alain Ducasse, it creates premium chocolate products all the way from bean to bar and supplies all Ducasse’s restaurants; chocolate bars, for example, are available in an amazing choice of 44 flavours. “My career is just at the beginning, I hope. It’s a constant, permanent evolution.” Further Information Alain Ducasse www.alain-ducasse.com/en

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PO RT RAIT Clockwise from left: Allard head chef Laëtitia Rouabah and managing director Eric Bonneau; joue de boeuf fondant aux carottes (beef stew with carrots); volaille de Bresse rôtie (roast Bresse chicken).

ALLARD 41 rue Saint-André des Arts  1 rue de l’Éperon  75006 Paris  +33 (0) 1 43 26 48 23 www.alain-ducasse.com/en/restaurant/ allard

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Body

Ship SHAPE ARCHITECTURE, BALLET, TRAVEL AND THE FEMALE FORM – IN ALL ITS WONDERFUL VARIATIONS – ARE JUST SOME OF THE DESIGN REFERENCES YOU’LL SEE IN SWIMWEAR AND LINGERIE BY ERES. WE CAUGHT UP WITH ARTISTIC DIRECTOR VALÉRIE DELAFOSSE TO LEARN WHY THIS ONE’S A BRAND TO WATCH.

icture the predicament of the ordinary fashion-loving female beachgoer. She’s confident, shapely, wellproportioned, even; but maybe a little too rounded in the lower abdomen. Or bottom. Or thighs. And yet this woman is asked, every swimwear season, to purchase a barely-there bikini. Constructed from nylon slips that might house an iPhone, but hardly conceal the average breast. Accented with teensy side bows, for an extra 10 millimetres of modesty. Don’t even contemplate the one-pieces – choices veer from Pammy Anderson-style deep V numbers to matronly pieces armoured with ruching, ruffles, buttons and bows. However, leading French swimwear and lingerie brand Eres seems to have achieved the ideal – managing to combine common sense

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with design sass to deliver collections that make the wearer look sexy without even trying. Artistic director Valérie Delafosse, who has headed the design team since 2007, has a bent for architectural designs that sculpt the body, generating comfort and sensuality in equal doses. Real women remain her template. “I observe women at the beach or at the pool, from their different body types to the types of clothing they struggle with. I always try to have in each collection a model for each body type,” she explains. “Everything comes from my love of the body’s architecture,” Delafosse continues. “I love dance, especially ballet. That is why I like to work very close to the body, like a sculptor.” One-piece suits are a highlight of each collection. “In Europe, people are more and more seduced by the one-piece as a couture item. It

becomes a fashion statement, especially if it has something spectacular like a very low neckline or modern cut-outs,” the designer explains. Eres’ reputation for innovation dates back to 1968, when enterprising Parisienne Irène Leroux took over her parents’ swimwear boutique. Leroux was foremost in making the collections available year-round, and in offering swimwear tops separate from bottoms so that women could create their own look. She freed the genre from the then-mandatory padding and boning, liberating women’s bodies while working with their natural curves. In 1996, Eres became part of the Chanel group. Backing the Eres design philosophy is a rigorous science: the brand’s in-house R&D team has introduced polyurethane straps, high-tech fabrics, clever cuts and more to each collection. Delafosse is also known for her all-female team

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Far left: Cassis swimsuit from the Les Essentiels theme. Left: Miracle swimsuit from the Puzzle theme Below left: Rainbow suit from the Paradise theme, all from the summer 2014 collection. Above: Sydney socialite spotted at Nielsen’s Park beach in Eres. Below right: The brand’s talented designer and spokeswoman, Valérie Delafosse.

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who try on the designs-in-progress themselves to perfect their cut. The brand is manufactured in Europe in exclusive quantities – a far cry from the ‘masstige’ operations of big-name brands that manufacture mass volumes abroad. “There is a real love affair with lingerie in France. The savoir-faire and the quality of the lace are incomparable,” Delafosse says of the brand’s French workshop-manufacture approach. Lace is a specialty, and much Eres lingerie features exquisite recreations of vintage lace. (Other Eres intimates are lean and athletic; a sporty line and a pure cotton lingerie collection are always offered alongside the luxury designs.) Over the years, the brand’s design references have included corsetry, pinstripes, Moroccan spices and abstract art, among others. “I have incorporated satin reminiscent of ballet slippers while artists like Rothko and Pollock have inspired some of my prints,” Delafosse says of her personal favourites. The Eres woman is assertive and elegant, Delafosse says. Swimsuit divas such as Elizabeth Taylor, Veruschka, Loulou de la Falaise and Romy Schneider remain enduring reference points. Anecdotally, modern-day powerhouses including Rihanna are fans of the brand. Not remotely sylph-like, they are wonderful womanly images to channel the next time you step into a swimsuit. Eres is available at several exclusive retailers in France and internationally, including at Sylvia Rhodes Lingerie in Sydney’s Double Bay. http://www.eresparis.com/en

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Ducasse’s signature dessert, Baba au Rhum, at Le Louis XV (photo © Pierre Monetta); view from the Diamond Suite Garnier, Hôtel de Paris (photo © Monte Carlo SBM).

Monaco

Best DRESSED FABULOUS VISTAS, LUXURIOUS HOTELS AND A SWATHE OF CHIC RESTAURANTS AND BARS MAKE MONACO A PLACE TO SEE AND BE SEEN IN ALL YEAR ROUND, WRITES PERSEPHONE NICHOLAS.

athed in golden sunshine, edged with the sapphire waters of the Mediterranean and adorned with fine hotels and visitor attractions, the pocket-size principality of Monaco has more to entice visitors than many destinations twice its size. It’s home to the Monaco Yacht Show, the Monte Carlo Grand Prix and the Monte Carlo Rolex Masters. It’s also known for its chic boutiques, iconic casino, vibrant cultural scene and some of the most chic restaurants and bars on the French Riviera.

NOBU AT THE FAIRMONT MONTE CARLO HOTEL Madonna and Kate Winslet are both fans of chef Nobuyuki Matsuhisa’s unique style of cooking, fusing the clean flavours of Japanese food with South American ingredients and spices. Nobu at the Fairmont Monte Carlo Hotel opened at the end of 2013 and is already a foodie mustvisit. Dine on the terrace and take in spectacular vistas over the Mediterranean as you savour Nobu’s signature dishes, including Black Cod Yuzo Miso, Beef Tartare Wagyu and Snow Crab in Shiso Salsa. www.fairmont.com/monte-carlo/ dining/nobu-fairmont-monte-carlo 36

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Cocktails created during Mixologie workshop (photo © Méridien Beach Plaza); Monaco at night (photo © Monaco Press Centre); Yohann Loustoud mixing drinks at Meridien Beach Plaza (photo © Méridien Beach Plaza).

MIXOLOGY CLASSES AT L’INTEMPO RESTAURANT AND BAR Discover the art and science of cocktail making in mixology classes at L’Intempo, the newly refurbished restaurant and bar at Le Méridien Beach Plaza, the only hotel in Monte Carlo with its own private beach. L’Intempo’s chief mixologist, Yohann Loustaud, hosts the sessions, which run every other Tuesday (call ahead for reservations). Each mixology class has a different theme, ranging from chocolate and whiskies to flowers, plants and spices. www.lintempo.com/en/classes

LE LOUIS XV BY ALAIN DUCASSE Iconic three-Michelin star restaurant, Le Louis XV by Alain Ducasse, is perhaps Monaco’s most glamorous eatery. Sophisticated French cuisine featuring the finest seasonal ingredients is matched with wines from the restaurant’s exceptional cellar. The décor couldn’t be more dramatic – think Versailles-inspired design, including hand-painted frescoes, marble busts, silk and velvet upholstery and rock crystal chandeliers. www.alain-ducasse.com/en/restaurant/ le-louis-xv-alain-ducasse Further Information Monaco Government Tourist Bureau www.visitmonaco.com Monaco Government Tourist Bureau in Australia Tel: +61 2 8206 9311 www.visitmonaco.com www.facebook.com/visitmonacoaustralia

WHAT’S ON IN MONACO Monaco’s temperate climate and year-round program of cultural and sporting events make it the perfect holiday or business destination at any time. Monte Carlo Sporting Summer Festival (JulyAugust 2014): One of the highlights of this year’s festival is Sir Elton John, performing with his band at the Salles des Etoiles on 26 July. http://en.sportingsummerfestival. com/!ELTON-JOHN-Band-at-the-MonteCarlo!.html Monaco Yacht Show (24-27 September 2014): More than 100 lavish vessels will gather at Port Hercule for the greatest international luxury yachting event of the year. www.monacoyachtshow.com Festival International du Cirque (15-25 January 2015): See the crème de la crème of

performers at the world’s most spectacular circus festival. www.montecarlofestival.mc Monte Carlo Car Rally (January 2015): Fast and furious, this historic rally dates back to 1911 and attracts cars and drivers from across the continent. www.acm.mc Monte Carlo Rolex Masters (April 2015): This international tennis tournament attracts tennis greats and spectators from all over the globe. www.monte-carlorolexmasters.com Monaco Grand Prix (May 2015): Inaugurated in 1929, this iconic motor race through the streets of Monte Carlo is as thrilling today as it was back then. www.grand-prix-monaco. com Festival de Télévision June 2015: Celebrities and stars aplenty will convene at this splendid celebration of the small screen. www.tvfestival.com

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KNOWN FOR THEIR ATTITUDE, ARCHES AND ICONIC RED SOLES, THE SHOES OF CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN ARE SUPPORTED BY A SWATHE OF CLASSIC STYLE HALLMARKS.

Sole MAN NEED HIGH RES

e’s famous for his flippant fashion quips – such as “Don’t reject a shoe because you can’t run in it. It’s OK not to run.” But a sizeable volume of substance underpins the style of Christian Louboutin and his eponymous brand, which sells upwards of 500,000 shoes around the world each year. Here’s our take on the top five features keeping Christian Louboutin’s shoes in the fashion headlines, and a selection of what’s in Australian stores this year.

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Since opening in 1992 in Véro-Dodat, an intimate covered passage not far from Palais-Royal, Louboutin’s first store has welcomed some of the world’s most famous celebrities. Early customers included actress Catherine Deneuve and Princess Caroline of Monaco; newer devotees include Jennifer Lopez, Beyonce and Emma Watson. It was at this store that a conversation between two rapt women caught the ear of a W Magazine fashion journalist, whose subsequent article on Louboutin’s shoes captured the public imagination. “People laugh because you walk down this particular street and all you see is beautiful women in red soles,” Louboutin says about the store.

Louboutin shoes are made in the company’s factories in Italy, and maintained by a coterie of skilled craftsmen in each country. A master cobbler near the Paris flagship store is engaged to restore Louboutins that are showing the effects of their party-loving owners’ lifestyles. The emphasis on craft echoes Louboutin’s own formal training. Having begun sketching sexy shoe designs as a boy after seeing a 1950s arched shoe illustration, Louboutin first trained with Charles Jourdan. He has collaborated with several prestigious design houses since, including Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent, both before and after launching his brand.

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Opposite page: Christian Louboutin, photographed by Gyome dos Santos; Lawrence Anyway boot in Nappa Silver; Apostrophe Sling in Patent Black.

NOW FOR MEN Flamboyant males around the world, rejoice – Louboutin’s footwear and accessories for men are poles apart from the perennial moccasins and oxfords associated with manly dressing. In 2011 Louboutin opened his first menswear store at rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau in Paris, opposite the flagship women’s one; additional stores have since opened in London and New York. The Paris store is resplendent in neon hues, acrylic displays and a disco gyroscope; there’s even a demi-couture tattoo parlour so you can take on the wild celeb style of Louboutinwearing blokes like Kanye West, will.i.am and Ronnie Wood. Styles to bookmark include the Rollerboy loafer and Platters formal shoe.

This page: Latcho Flat brogue and Fantin-Latour inspired blooms (top); floral Youpi peeptoe with Monet florals (below), both photographed by Peter Lippman for the springsummer 2014 Louboutin lookbook.

WILD OSCILLATIONS Imagination, parties and world travel fuel the buzzing mind of Louboutin, many of whose designs are reputedly created for cabaret dancers (including a collection for the legendary, avant-garde Le Crazy Horse Paris). “Nobody wears shoes like a dancer on stage,” the designer has famously said. His knack for making unlikely associations is what inspired the now trademarked red lacquer soles, which he painted onto a shoe one year, after observing an assistant paint her nails red. The soles now epitomise Louboutin style.

BELOW THE LINE An unlikely signature of the brand is that you’ll never see it depicted on the world’s major billboards, magazines or on other advertising platforms. True to the designer’s renegade roots – he left home at 12, briefly dropped out of school at 16 and has made life a parade of good times ever since – Louboutin’s designs remain the cult domain of fashion’s great individualists. Stockist information Christian Louboutin www.christianlouboutin.com Westfield Sydney Christian Louboutin Boutique – 02 8203 0902 David Jones Sydney – 02 9266 5544 David Jones Melbourne – 03 9643 2222 Chadstone Shopping Centre – 03 8531 4444

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www.chateauxhotels.com 40

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Exceptional aged wines at the Cave Centrale, Hôtel de Paris.

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WINES of the time IMPECCABLY CRAFTED AND AGED, THE WINES OF HÔTEL DE PARIS MONTE CARLO’S CAVE CENTRALE ARE COMING TO SYDNEY.

eep in the caverns of the SBM Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo lies a labyrinthine cellar known as Cave Centrale, 1.5 kilometres long and home to some 350,000 rare wines aged to perfection. The collection is supplied to just a handful of exclusive restaurants and comprises wines from the best vintages dating back to the 1950s and older. These include the Krug Collection 1928 champagne, officially valued at €1,600 ($2,469), but known to sell at auction for more than US$20,000 ($22,808). This spring, local wine aficionados can catch a glimpse into the superb Cave Centrale collection with a display of its most prized bottles in the Sofitel Sydney Wentworth hotel lobby. See wines from world-renowned châteaux such as Château Margaux, Château d’Yquem and others. The display is supported

by Langtons, Riedel, Hotel de Paris, Monaco Tourism and Vintec.

WINE AND ONLY What’s in a name? Top wine connoisseurs will agree that the best wines are easily worth the steepest prices, and their spiritual worth often parallels their material value. According to Jean-Marie Simart, Director of Vintec Australia, wines are a “holy fusion between nature and human professional skills.” Simart realised he was a wine aficionado at 19, when he correctly guessed the origins of a rare Château Meyney wine at a dinner party. His most prized wine is a six-litre Mouton Rothschild 2000. “I bought the bottle together with a friend who, sadly, passed away some years later. It will be drunk at my wake by my children and, hopefully, by my grandchildren,” he says.

Mark Baulderstone, Managing Director of Riedel Australia, also associates his most valued bottle – a 2001 Antinori Tignanello – with a cherished memory. “The last time I opened one was in 2007, to enjoy with my mother and brother. It turned out to be my last-ever meal with my mother, and I have only one left in my cellar,” he muses. For Jeremy Parham, head of Langton’s Wine Auctions and Exchange, wine was something he learned to appreciate while working in London’s finance world. He became smitten first with champagnes, then Napa Valley cult wines, Bordeaux’s and Burgundys. “I’ve got a nice collection now, although my prize possession is probably a single Penfold’s Bin 60A from 1962. It’s worth a few bob, but it’s for drinking, not selling!” he says.

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EXHIBITION SHORTLIST Burgundy • La Tache Grand Cru – Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 1942 Bordelais • Château Beychevelle – Saint-Julien 1928 • Château Haut-Brion – Graves 1956 • Château Lafite Rothschild – Pauillac 1937 (double magnum) • Château Latour – Pauillac 1964 (magnum) • Château Margaux – Margaux 1934 • Château la Mission Haut-Brion – Graves 1920 (double magnum) • Petrus – Pomerol 1945 • Château d’Yquem – Sauternes 1937 Cognacs • Grande Champagne ‘Roi de Rome’ Sazerac de Forge 1811 • Fine Champagne ‘Reserve’ Sazerac de Forge 1809 Note: bottles are not for sale.

Above: inside the cellars. Below, left to right: Mark Baulderstone, Jeremy Parham and Jean-Marie Simart.

SOFITEL SYDNEY WENTWORTH 61-101 Phillip St, Sydney www.sofitelsydney.com.au Exhibition date: 1–7 September 2014

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Discover France

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South of France

Some like it HOT

EXPERIENCE THE PASSION, BUZZ AND CONVIVIALITY OF FRANCE’S GOURMET SCENE IN LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON – WHETHER AT ONE OF THE REGION’S VIBRANT PRODUCE MARKETS, OR ITS STELLAR RESTAURANTS.

Top: glass of rosé. Right: hotel bar under the medieval ramparts of Carcassonne (both photos © P Palau).

f the richly varied topography and landscape of Languedoc-Roussillon, in southwest France, is anything to go by, it’s little wonder the region’s cuisine and wines are so diverse. Noteworthy flavours include olives and oils redolent of the sunbaked Pyrénées-Orientales department, tender and aromatic lamb from Lozère’s hillside pastures, and the fresh, sweet shellfish of the Mediterranean-facing Hérault department. From perfect produce come inventive dishes: brandade, the salt-cod dish of Nîmes in Gard, and the Aude department’s cassoulet are just two examples. Clustered in a semicircle around vineyardstudded hills, with the Mediterranean in the south and the Pyrénées-Orientales mountains in the northwest, the departments of LanguedocRoussillon form a geographical amphitheatre that harbours some standout sights.

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Many are saturated in many millennia of human civilisation. Nîmes is host to the magnificent Roman-era Nîmes Amphitheatre. Carcassonne is an immaculately preserved medieval walled city. The Canal du Midi is a Renaissance-era engineering wonder that traverses a 241-kilometre distance from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic. They are just some of Languedoc-Roussillon’s UNESCO heritage-listed sites. Many richly historic sites jostle alongside them – along with a range of contemporary experiences. Montpellier, the region’s thriving capital, has a city centre lined with elegant Renaissance buildings and monuments, and an energetic modern pace. Here, a large student population – around one-third of the city’s total – and strong economy contribute to a strong gourmet scene, world-class museums and buzzing nightlife.

IN THE FRESH The cult of fresh local produce has never been stronger in foodie scenes, and the best place to experience Languedoc-Roussillon’s flavoursome local ingredients up close is at the colour-drenched covered markets. All are a social drawing-point of each town; many manage to cram intimate bistros and bars within their confines. Here are four not to be missed. • Narbonne – Housed in an ornate 1901 atrium, the covered markets of Les Halles in Narbonne combine almost 70 food stalls, including butchers, charcutiers, pastry-makers, bars and restaurants. The mammoth 2,800-squaremetre space brims with the scent of spices, olives, sausages, baked goods and more. It’s open 365 days a year, 7am to 1pm.

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• Sète – While the architecture is a tad unglamorous at this 1970s monolith, the fruit, vegetables, cheeses, pastries and countless exclusive deli items rival any fresh produce market. A highlight is the freshly caught local seafood – oysters, mussels, sardines and tuna among them. Open daily, 6am to 1pm. • Lunel – This magnificent 1900 metalwork building encloses an immense market hall, thrumming with market-goers and producers chatting about their oil, honey, olives and glistening pyramids of fruit and vegetables. Enjoy a petit noir coffee at the buvette corner, or an aperitif just before lunchtime. Open Tuesday through Sunday, 7:30am to 1pm. • Nîmes – For more than 130 years, jokes have flown, recipes been exchanged and an entire city flocked to buy the best of the region’s produce under the roof of this imposing marketplace. Hungry? Snack on the famous local petit pâté nîmois (a veal and vegetable pastry), or dive into the restaurant Halles Auberge for a generous lunch. Open daily, 7:30am to 1pm (and 1:30pm on Sunday).

THE PRESTIGE CLUB AND BUSINESS CLUB Imagine conducting a business workshop in a converted abbey overlooking an immense rose garden, or ending your convention by wine-tasting, trufflehunting or participating in a 4WD rally. Languedoc-Roussillon’s tourism department has compiled a list of the 70 most business-friendly establishments in the region. For leisure travellers seeking the best of the region, look for the 50 or so acclaimed places to stay, dine and see within the Cercle Prestige (Prestige Club) list. The lineup includes a four-star orientalstyle spa in Hérault, and a luxury hotel set within the medieval ramparts of Carcassonne. en.destinationsuddefrance. com/Cercle-Prestige

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Opposite: selection of local cheeses (photo © P Palau). This page (clockwise from centre): olives ripening (photo © B Liegeois); terrace dining near Baie de Paulilles (photo © P Palau); vines in Hérault (photo © P Palau).

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THE QUALITY LABEL: QUALITÉ SUD DE FRANCE Short on time? Special occasion coming up? To help visitors find the region’s most prestigious stays, the tourism authority has developed the Qualité Sud de France label, combining Languedoc-Roussillon’s most trusted stays and other experiences. Keep an eye out for the plaque. en.destinationsuddefrance.com/QualiteSud-de-France Terrace café near the Pont du Gard, Nîmes (photo © B Liegeois).

TERROIR SETS THE TONE No matter which of Languedoc-Roussillon’s five distinctly different departments you’ll be visiting, there’s a top-rated destination where you can experience local flavours at their best. Extensive wine lists at each of these are bound to showcase the region’s best – many of them single appellation labels including Saint-Chinian, Côtes du Roussillon and Coteaux de Languedoc. Starting your culinary journey from Montpellier, capital of the region and also the Hérault department, the first stop might be Le Jardin des Sens, artfully managed by twin brothers Jacques and Laurent Pourcel for more than two decades. Their artful creations are suffused with Mediterranean flavours – tomatoes, olive oil and garlic are never far – and the menu is regularly updated. Heading south along the Mediterranean coast in the Pyrénées-Orientales is Michelin star-rated La Balette, by Frédéric Bacquié.

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The intimate eatery basks beneath market umbrellas on the shores of charming Collioure, with its distinctive fishing port. Local seafood plays a starring role but the influences range much further – Collioure anchovies served as sushi, or foie gras encased in a ribbon of chocolate. Inland at tiny Fontjoncouse, Aude department, is the region’s most critically acclaimed restaurant. Chef Gilles Goujon creates imaginative fare from superb seasonal produce at Auberge du Vieux Puits, and has a three Michelin-star rating for his efforts. A signature dish is his Carrus egg with truffles on a purée of mushrooms, accented with brioche and cappuccino. Further inland again, in the verdant hillsides of Aumont-Aubrac, Lozère, is the acclaimed boutique hotel Chez Camillou and its Michelin star-rated Restaurant Gastronomique Cyril Attrazic. Headed by the eponymous chef, the menu is both imaginative and restrained – offerings at time of publication included Aubrac beef with lettuce

and butter jus, and celery ravioli with foie gras, seasonal mushrooms and chicken broth. Back in coastal climes at Garons, near Nîmes in the Gard department, is the two Michelin-star rated Restaurant Alexandre by chef Michel Kayser. Guests are welcomed into a contemporary terrace setting and treated to a flurry of contrasting flavours, such as bull tenderloin paired with pan-roasted potatoes, Cantal cheese, olives, and a squid-ink pillow stuffed with celery, capers and anchovies. Further Information Tourisme Languedoc-Roussillon Sud de France http://en.destinationsuddefrance.com/

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Combine easy to moderate cycling with river, canal or island cruising. Ideal for partners of different abilities, unpack once, come ‘home’ each night to a wonderful meal and a comfortable cabin with your own bathroom.

HOTEL BARGE CANAL CANAL CRUISES CRUISES

Canal or small river cruises. Quality cabins, each with own bathroom. Onboard chef with regional cuisines and wines. Daily coach excursions to vineyards, chateaux, galleries, gardens. Bicycles available onboard.

WALKING HOLIDAYS

Small group guided walks on carefully selected trails, some with pack animals to carry refreshments and picnics. Private chateaux and charming hotels all with pools, all with a passion for regional cuisine and local wines.

AVAILABLE IN FRANCE AND MOST DESTINATIONS IN EUROPE Telephone 1800 331 582 www.outdoortravel.com.au MAGAZINE

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Montpellier Sun KISSED

GRACEFUL AND EASYGOING, MONTPELLIER HAS A VIBRANT AND CONTEMPORARY CULINARY SCENE THAT COMPLEMENTS ITS DARING MIX OF NEW URBAN INFRASTRUCTURE.

cclaimed as one of France’s most liveable cities, Montpellier offers perfect-sized portions of everything a visitor could want in a southern French city: a sweetly medieval town centre, modern quarters featuring architecture by the likes of Zaha Hadid, and a pulsing food and nightlife scene. The regional capital of LanguedocRoussillon, Montpellier is young – half the population is aged under 35 – and its urban amenities seem very much to suit their energy. 50

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Four modern tram lines, two of them featuring splashy paintwork and interiors conceived by Christian Lacroix. The ultramodern city hall, designed by star architect Jean Nouvel. The eclectic mix of old masters and abstract painting at Musée Fabre. And fine flavours for visitors to seek out and enjoy.

BEFORE MIDNIGHT Culinary voyeurs, take note: Montpellier offers world-class restaurants headed by chefs renowned across France and further afield. A 15-year-plus stalwart of the haute cuisine scene is Jardin des Sens (www.jardindessens.com),

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consistently star-rated by Michelin for its sundrenched, simple and exquisite cuisine. Another Michelin star-rated restaurant is Réserve Rimbaud (www.reserve-rimbaud.com), set in a sprawling villa overlooking the river Lez, and offering intense southern flavours – think goose foie gras, artichokes or Cévennes onions. At Maison de la Lozère-Cellier Morel (www.celliermorel. com) in Montpellier’s old town, savour southern classics such as pissaladiere, grilled seafoods and citrus, nut and caramel-rich desserts, in a modern-meets-medieval setting. To walk off the effects of all that feasting, stroll through the Les Arceaux farmers’

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Opposite page – Top: evening crowds at Place de la Comedie (photo © OT Montpellier/Marc Ginot). Below: vineyards from Pic de SaintLoup outside Montpellier (photo © G Deleruel).

market on a Tuesday or Saturday morning. Buy specialties unique to Languedoc-Roussillon, such as Cévennes honey, pélardon (goat’s milk cheese), perails (soft ewe’s cheese) and Lucques olives. Montpellier has some worthwhile buys for sweet-tooths. Grisettes de Montpellier are small, round candies with a honey and liquorice flavour; Pavés Saint Roch are bite-sized sweets made with chocolate, orange and spices. At artisan chocolatier Thierry Papereux (www.chocolats-thierry-papereux.com/ fr), drool over handmade chocolates and macarons infused with subtly southern influences – hints of mandarin, mint, geranium and even lavender. Old-school Montpellier confectioner Auzier-Chabernac makes traditional confections including liquorice and marshmallows, an offshoot of the city’s medical history.

RATTLING THE PANS

Culinary art at Jardin des Sens (photo © Jardin des Sens).

For diners keen to recreate Montpellier’s marvellous flavours back home, Le Jardin des Sens offers exclusive cooking courses in an intimate, enjoyable setting. Also popular is L’Atelier de Valérie (www.atelier-valerie.com), where resident chef Valérie Sabatino offers varied courses ranging from the 45-minute plat du jour-making session, to a three-hour full menu course. She speaks English, too.

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This page – Left: couple strolling through the old town (photo © KFH/ Beatriz Azorin); right: producers preparing oysters at Les Estivales 2010 (photo © Ville de Montpellier).

VINS OF THE TIMES Grape vines have dotted Montpellier’s surrounding hillsides since antiquity. Most of the region’s wines are either appellation-controlled wines or vins de pays. Ten are particularly acclaimed, including Côteaux du Languedoc, Faugères and Saint-Chinian, as well as the muscats of Mireval, Frontignan and Lunel. Grés de Montpellier (www.gres-demontpellier.com/en) is the appellation for wines made by 35 independent winemakers and five cooperatives in Montpellier. Grenache, syrah and mourvèdre are predominant but there are other varieties too, thanks to the varied terrain. Look for the Languedoc cross on the label, bearing the words ‘la Croix du Languedoc’, and discover the wines at the city’s many fashionable wine bars, restaurants and bistros. Les Estivales, a night market that draws thousands of locals each Friday in summer, is another fun way of experiencing Montpellier’s culture and flavours. It’s held at Esplanade Charles de Gaulle, Friday nights between June and September. Further Information Office de Tourisme de Montpellier www.montpellier-france.com

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This page – Chefs at work in a typical brigade system; the respected tome. Opposite – new Michelin star winner, Oscar Garcia; three star-rated restaurant l’Assiette Champenoise; Michael Ellis at work.

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Critique

Bigger bytes for MICHELIN WITH A SLEW OF DIGITAL-ERA PRODUCTS SET FOR RELEASE VERY SOON, THE MICHELIN SYSTEM OF RESTAURANT STAR RATINGS IS MORE VAUNTED THAN EVER, AS ELLA LOMBARDI FINDS.

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ichael Ellis is a hard man to pin down. It’s not surprising when a normal week might involve five planes, three cities, a train and a blur of luxury hotels. It goes with the territory of being International Director of Michelin’s famous Red Guides, honoured worldwide in determining excellence in fine dining. But today I’ve finally caught him in the company’s Paris headquarters, catching his breath just days after a global launch. In another month he’ll be hurtling into another annual Michelin cycle of “star sessions” around the world, when teams convene to decide which restaurants will receive the food industry’s most coveted accolades. It’s these awards – or lack of them, in some cases – that rattle the pans in kitchens the world over, but nowhere more so than in France, the mother ship of Michelin. This year’s Michelin Guide France 2014 release was no exception, stirring the controversy pot by awarding stars to seven chefs under the age of 30. They included Oscar Garcia from Table d’Uzès, Languedoc-Roussillon, who has received his first star at just 25. To some of the country’s culinary elite, it was simply too hard to comprehend. But American-born Ellis, who has clocked up more than 20 years of living in France, says the decision simply reflected current dining trends.

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“We don’t deny that the master French chefs are still doing amazing things – and are awarded for it – but our inspectors have observed a new generation of young chefs. These talents have trained with culinary masters and then struck out on their own, and they’re coming up with amazing results.” But old or new, France’s gastro belly is alive and well, with Michelin showcasing 4,834 restaurants in the French Guide, with another 610 of them starred. The book began in 1900 when tyre manufacturers André and Edouard Michelin wanted people to drive more, and use more tyres. Their strategy was to give away a free gourmet guidebook, created by a team of inspectors they employed to anonymously visit and rate restaurants. Distributed free of charge until 1920, the publication introduced the star system in 1926. By 1936, the rating system was widely established (one star: ‘a very good restaurant in its own category’; two stars: ‘excellent cooking, worth a detour’; and three stars: ‘exceptional cuisine, worth a special trip’) and it hasn’t changed. What has changed is the world’s move into the digital stratosphere, so that food journalists now question the guides’ relevance. Why buy a guide, when the results are out in cyberspace so quickly after its release? Then there are the food bloggers who post, tweet and Facebook their opinions, minutes after they’ve wiped the last crumb from their mouths and well before Michelin can publish their results.

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“Michelin is not about chasing fads and fashion. We are about consistency over time. I believe everyone has the right to speak. But in the sea of voices out there, who do you trust? Michelin has been around for 100 years. We don’t pretend to have the truth always, but we have a very subjective view.” Ellis is also excited about digital opportunities for apps for tablets, mobile phones and sat nav. As for the boss himself, does he occasionally have a non-star rated dining experience? Tea and toast in front of the TV, for instance? “Perhaps a glass of wine and some cheese,” he laughs. “I’ve been in France a long time now.”

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â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Collection of vintage bottles from the famous cellars of Hotel de Parisâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

More information on www.rendezvousenfrance.com

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Vineyards in the Champagne region (photo © Phovoir).

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Grand Est

SENSATIONAL SCENERY, A VIBRANT LOCAL HERITAGE AND CULTURE AND A MYRIAD OF GOURMET RESTAURANTS AND WINERIES MAKE FRANCE’S NORTH EAST A COMPELLING DESTINATION. BY PERSEPHONE NICHOLAS

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ith its pristine emerald forests, undulating vineyards and historic towns, the North East region of France (also known as Grand Est) is a dream destination for those who love the great outdoors and soaking up the French art de vivre. These natural splendours are complemented with a rich local history – the region is home to many artifacts and monuments commemorating the Great War. It boasts a wealth of architectural heritage and cosmopolitan culture, with a unique blend of Flemish, German and Swiss influences here. There are sophisticated galleries, museums and exhibitions open all year round. Those who prefer a little retail therapy will find plenty to tempt them too. Alsace, Champagne and Burgundy are musts on any itinerary. Alsace is known for its fine white

wines and creative cuisine blending Flemish, German and Swiss flavours and techniques. It has more Michelin star-rated chefs per kilometre than any other region. It’s also known for its river tourism – one of the most relaxing ways to take in the sights and atmosphere of the area. Burgundy is blessed with more than its fair share of visitor attractions. There are world-class wines to discover, classic and contemporary cuisine of the highest standard and wonderful ways to travel too. Take a river cruise, visit the vineyards in a horse-drawn carriage or experience the countryside from a hot air balloon. Around an hour’s drive from Paris, Champagne is home to the golden elixir that makes every party sparkle. The great champagne houses are here, and you can visit – and taste – some of the fine wines they produce. Many boutique wineries offer accommodation too.

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Alsace

Picture PERFECT STUNNINGLY SITUATED BETWEEN THE RIVER RHINE AND THE VOSGES MOUNTAINS, ALSACE IS BEST KNOWN FOR ITS PICTURESQUE HOUSES, LOCAL WINES AND UNIQUE CUISINE. (–P.N.)

lsace is France’s smallest region, but is home to some fine cities including Strasbourg, Colmar and Mulhouse – and punches well above its weight when it comes to visitor appeal. To start with, Alsace is wine country. Many hectares of vineyards produce the grapes that are made into the region’s distinctive white wines. The 170-kilometre Route des Vins guides visitors through mountain-fringed vineyards and villages, including some of those designated among the most beautiful in France such as Eguisheim and Riquewihr. Great wine demands food to match and Alsace doesn’t disappoint. Much of the local cuisine is German-influenced – be sure to taste the Alsace flammekeuche, a baked dough base topped with cheese, cream, mushrooms and the local ham. Sweet-tooths will love Pain d’Epices, a special gingerbread which is typical of the region.

5 HIGHLIGHTS OF ALSACE 1. Generous culture – Auguste Bartholdi, who designed and built New York’s celebrated Statue of Liberty, was born in Colmar, and visitors can see his sculptures at the Musée Bartholdi. 2. Distinctive wines – This is the only region in France to label its wine according to grape variety, such as pinot gris, Riesling and gewürztraminer. 3. Winter wonderland – Every year, Strasbourg showcases the tallest Christmas tree in Europe. Held from November 25 to January 6, Christmas in Alsace is a marvel of 100 winter markets and 1,000 events. 4. Rich and rare – Northwest of Strasbourg, visit the factory and museum devoted to the masterful creations of René Lalique. The Lalique factory releases a stunning collection every year comprising 30 new items and a line of crystal jewellery. 5. Fine feasts – Although the smallest region in France, Alsace hosts more Michelin-starred restaurants than any other region.

Further Information Tourisme Alsace www.tourisme-alsace.com/en

Top: colourful half-timbered houses with steep-pitched roofs in Colmar. Above: vintage in Alsace.

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CRUISE MOST I THE EUROPEAN’S I I BEAUTIFUL WATERWAYS

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CroisiEurope is proud to reveal the charms of France’s canals in the regions of Alsace, Burgundy, Provence, Champagne and the Canal Saint-Martin in Paris on board a collection of new hotel barges, with a capacity of 24 passengers.

Over the years Croisieurope has become the European market leader in river cruising, with 36 river ships operating on European most beautiful waterways. This family-run French company, created 38 years ago, is the owner, operator and manager of all its vessels...

… This particular feature enables the company to offer products which are recognised both for their high quality and for their very attractive prices. CroisiEurope is the company with the largest fleet of vessels in France: four vessels on the Seine, two on the Garonne and Dordogne, three on the Rhone, about ten on the Rhine and one coming on the Loire.

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Burgundy

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Wine-tasting at a Burgundy cellar (photos this page © Alain Doire/ Bourgogne Tourisme)

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RENOWNED FOR ITS FINE WINES AND GOURMET FARE, BURGUNDY IS A PICTURESQUE DESTINATION BRIMFUL OF ATTRACTIONS OLD AND NEW. (–P.N.)

overs of fine wines flock to Burgundy each year. They come in search of Burgundy’s delicious drops and epicurean delights, but discover the region has more to offer too. Think Renaissance châteaux, ancient abbeys and fortified villages tucked between forests, mountains and rivers, plus a vibrant local culture. Winemaking in Burgundy dates back to the Middle Ages, when Cistercian monks tended the vineyards and made wine for the church and the noble Dukes of Burgundy. Winemaking has evolved somewhat since then, but the region’s tradition of producing fine wines, from locally grown pinot noir and chardonnay grapes, is as strong as ever.

FEAST FIRST There’s a wealth of delicious local dishes to try. Many, such as boeuf Bourguignon and coq au vin, are hearty and feature the local wines, but there are plenty of lighter choices. Look for gougères (savoury cheese puffs), jambon persillé (potted ham with parsley) and delicious local cheeses. Visit the markets for picnic supplies and the local Dijon mustard and shortbread.

RISING STARS

The majestic Place de la Libération in Dijon.

In 2014 Burgundy offers visitors 35 Michelinstarred restaurants, including: • Le Jardin des remparts, Beaune (Côte-d’Or) • Christophe Quéant-Château de Pommard, Pommard (Côte-d’Or) • Ed. Em, Chassagne Montrachet (Côte-d’Or) • Loiseau des Ducs, Dijon (Côte-d’Or) • La Marande, Fleurville (Saône-et-Loire) • Auberge du Paradis, Saint-Amour Bellevue (Saône-et-Loire) • Au 14 février, Saint-Amour Bellevue (Saôneet-Loire)

WHAT’S NEW IN BURGUNDY Les Vins de Maurice – An elegant wine bar serving local wines and simple meals. www.lesvinsdemaurice.com Château de Chamirey – This renovated estate dates back to the 17th century and is open for tours and tastings. www.chamirey.com Domaine Joseph Drouhin – Learn more about your favourite wines at this dedicated museum and cellar. www.drouhin.com Further Information Burgundy Tourism www.burgundy-tourism.com

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Champagne

Tasting the STARS IT’S BEEN SEVERAL CENTURIES SINCE A BENEDICTINE MONK FIRST LIKENED CHAMPAGNE TO ‘TASTING THE STARS,’ BUT THE WINE, LIKE THE REGION, HAS LOST NONE OF ITS MAGIC. (–P.N.)

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ynonymous with celebration, Champagne is a drink – and a region – for those seeking the finest things in life. The region’s iconic champagne houses include Mumm, Moët & Chandon, Taittinger and Pommery, all open for tours and tastings. Each house, whether large or small, has its own style and contributes to 300 million bottles produced each year. The historic city of Reims is the industry’s commercial centre; thousands of visitors flock here to see the champagne caves (cellars). Thirty kilometres to the south, Epernay lies in the heart of the vineyards; the town lives and breathes champagne. Its famous Avenue de Champagne is lined with prestigious champagne houses. Nearby Hautvillers was home to the illustrious monk, Dom Perignon, the ‘father of champagne’. His tomb is in the abbey church. Down the road at Aÿ, visitors can take a vineyard tour in an opentopped electric car, including a scenic stop to enjoy a glass of champagne (www.ay-eco-visite.com). If the wine is divine, the food is second to none. Try the dry-cured Ardennes ham or the succulent, thick-sliced Reims ham, as well as AOC cheeses from Langres or Chaource. Dining options abound, from the quirky Café du Palais (www. cafedupalais.fr) to the elegant Château les Crayères, where Michelin-starred chef, Philippe Mille, runs a sophisticated gourmet restaurant and chic brasserie (www.lescrayeres.com). Other attractions include the magnificent Gothic cathedral of Reims, where many of France’s kings were crowned over close to 800 years. The UNESCO heritage-listed cathedral has exceptional statuary and stained glass, including a window designed by the celebrated Russian-French artist, Marc Chagall. Reims is also noted for its Art Deco architecture. Just 20 per cent of Reims remained after the First World War, and it was largely rebuilt in the 1920s and 30s. Deco die-hards should visit the Carnegie Library and the Opera Cinema.

Top: Avenue de Champagne (photo © CRTCA). Above: vineyard picnic with Ay Eco Visite. Below left: champagne-filled flutes (photo © Jupiter Images).

Troyes, the historic capital of the ancient Province of Champagne, is famed for the distinctive half-timbered façades of its old merchant houses, and its beautiful cathedral. The town draws shoppers from Paris and beyond – its fashion outlets are among the largest in Europe, with bargains galore for those with time to browse. Further Information Champagne-Ardenne Tourist Board www.champagne-ardenne-tourism.co.uk

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Dijon Talk of the

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Cathedral Saint-Michel illuminated (photos © Office de Tourisme de Dijon/Atelier Moulin, unless otherwise stated).

TERROIR

SLATED FOR WORLD HERITAGE LISTING, THE VINEYARDS SURROUNDING DIJON IN BURGUNDY YIELD SOME OF THE FINEST WINES FOUND ANYWHERE. THE CITY OFFERS A CORNUCOPIA OF FLAVOURS TO MATCH.

hey are two must-visit destinations on any wine aficionado’s bucket list: Dijon, the charming capital of Burgundy, and Côte de Nuits, the iconic winemaking region immediately beyond the city. Both are brimful with centuries of art de vivre, and both offer a compelling menu of gourmet attractions. In Dijon, wander through a compact town centre, admiring late medieval structures such as the Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy, Cathédrale Saint-Bénigne, Dijon Museum of Fine Arts, and others. The Tower of Philippe le Bon offers a sweeping view over the city – but be prepared to climb the 316 steps first. 62

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Strolling is easy with the Owl’s Trail, a 22-stage self-guided walking tour marked on the streets. Alternatively, contact the Dijon Tourist Office for its thoughtful and varied itineraries, designed to suit all preferences and seasons.

VINES ENSHRINED Dijon is the gateway to the internationally renowned vineyards of Côte de Nuits, a mosaic of precisely defined vine plots dating back some 2,000 years. An ideal balance of artful tending and climatic fortune shapes their prized product, which is why the community is pushing for Côte de Nuits to be recognised as a

UNESCO heritage-listed site in 2015. Top vineyards to visit include GevreyChambertin, Morey-Saint-Denis, Vosne Romanée and Nuits-Saint-Georges. Contact the tourist office for intimate half-day, fullday or overnight tours to these and other châteaux, enjoying the best of their food, wine and hospitality. Back in town, try the best Burgundian tipples at jazz-and-wine bar, Le Caveau de la Chouette (www.divine-comedie.com/caveau-dela-chouette), or La Fine Heure (www.lafineheure. fr). Both are centrally located and offer excellent food menus.

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FLAVOURS TO SAVOUR Dijon has some famous traditional products: the eponymous mustard, of course, and also gingerbread, crème de cassis and more. Dijon’s Les Halles market is one of France’s standout produce markets and boasts an ornate 1863 design, conceived by a certain Gustav Eiffel. Ask the tourist office about walking tours here on Tuesdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Here are seven other top foodie haunts to try. • Bourgogne Street, Dijon – A food emporium where you can sample and buy local specialities including mustard, blackcurrant and gingerbread, and attend original gourmet events. www. bourgognestreet.fr • Boutique Maille, Dijon – Home of the famous mustard; tours and tastings are by appointment only. www.maille.com • Sébastien Hénon Chocolatier Confiseur, Dijon – Respected artisan maker of chocolates, biscuits and macarons. www.sebastien-henon.com • Fromagerie Gaugry, Gevrey-Chambertin – A generations-old cheese-making facility in the famed wine-making village of GevreyChambertin. gaugryfromager.fr/home • L’Or des Valois, Château d’Entre deux Monts – Truffle-hunting tour operator; learn about truffle farming, the Burgundy truffle and more. www.truffedebourgogne.fr • La Ferme Fruirouge, Concoeur – Organic berry farm and producer of jams, drinks and condiments. www.fruirouge.fr

Above and Below – Vintage season in Dijon.

Dijon’s Les Halles market (photo © Mairie de Dijon).

CITY ON THE MOVE Beyond the manicured medieval town centre, there’s much new development afoot in Dijon, which is just one hour and 30 minutes from Paris by TGV. Almost a billion Euros have been poured into the city’s infrastructure over the past 10 years, with output including new high-speed rail lines, tram lines, refurbished cultural facilities and a vast brownfields redevelopment that will yield 12 new eco-friendly neighbourhoods. The city’s culinary scene is also being updated. Dijon’s massive annual gastronomy festival (www. foirededijon.com), the drawcard for some 200,000 visitors, will take place in an impressive new facility when the International Gastronomy Exhibition Centre opens in 2016. Set on a 6.5-hectare site facing the Ouche River, the centre will comprise a training centre, wine centre, convention spaces, indoor market, spa resort and more. Further Information Dijon Tourist Office www.visitdijon.com/en

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The resort’s sumptuous spa has a rustic Provençal style from without, and modern luxuries within. All photos © Terre Blanche

Resort Provençal

DREAMING

THE FIVE-STAR TERRE BLANCHE HOTEL SPA GOLF RESORT, A MEMBER OF THE LEADING HOTELS OF THE WORLD EXCLUSIVE COLLECTION, IS THE PERFECT BASE FOR EXPLORING BEAUTIFUL PROVENCE – AND SAMPLING ITS RIPE FLAVOURS.

ith its rosemary and lavender-scented hills, gnarled olive groves and sun-baked limestone villages, Provence remains one of the world’s most celebrated landscapes. Nestled alluringly within this authentic, hilly Provençal setting is Terre Blanche, arguably one of France’s most richly imagined leisure establishments. Some 115 guest suites and villas – ranging in size from 60 square metres to 300 square metres – sprawl across its 300 hectares of wooded countryside. All are appointed in romantic southern 64

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French décor, with white-painted furniture, living room, marble bathrooms, private terraces and heated floors – all par for the course. The Prestige Villas feature their own private pool or Jacuzzi. Outside the intimate and luxurious guest rooms, Terre Blanche offers countless rewarding diversions beneath sunny skies. There are two 18-hole championship golf courses set across a rolling hillside, and the resort’s wildlife reserve is a haven for more than 30 kinds of birds along with frogs, turtles, swans, ducks and more. The grand infinity pool, elegantly landscaped and furnished with 30 intimate cabanas, places

guests in the centre of a Provençal idyll, while the poolside bistro ensures sophisticated drinks and dining are never far away. The luxury spa, housed within its own villa, is devoted to physical and spiritual wellbeing and relaxation. The lavish facilities include two pools, a fitness studio, zen relaxation space, hair and beauty salons, as well as a tea room with terraces and gardens. The expert face and body treatments feature products by Carita, a new partner in 2014. A kids’ club, golf academy, tennis academy and attentive concierge, are just some of the other guest services.

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FLAVOURS TO DINE FOR

A STONE’S THROW

Dining is a core attraction at Terre Blanche. The establishment’s 2012 relaunch, following an exit from Four Seasons management, has placed a renewed focus on its four restaurants. Fine-dining restaurant Le Faventia offers contemporary French haute cuisine, incorporating fine local produce and dazzling presentation. On the menu at press time were blue lobster on crisp zucchini; scallops with truffle slices and fresh sea fennel; and bouillabaisse for two. Regional wines are served throughout the meals. Le Gaudina offers a more casual atmosphere and exquisite yet accessible Provençal cuisine – think goat’s cheese salad with grilled chicken, salade Niçoise, or foie gras terrine on toasted brioche. The children’s menu is healthy and appealing. At Les Caroubiers, at the Clubhouse, guests can watch the golfing action on the green outside while savouring Provençal classics, or sip chilled rosé on one of the white leather sofas at the lounge bar. Le Tousco Grill beside the pool offers light, summery fare, a kids’ menu, and Italian specials in the evening. Sit on oversized garden furniture under the awning, or have meals ordered and brought to your cabana.

The area around Terre Blanche is studded with charming villages, many dating back to medieval times, and all with their own unique character. At Fayence, drool over sundrenched produce at the farmers’ market and shop for local specialties such as honey, soap, lavender and textiles. At Seillans, admire 12th-century cobbled streets and churches, the tree-shaded village forum, and original sculptures by one-time resident, Max Ernst. Terre Blanche’s concierge is happy to help organise half-day and full-day tours to these and other villages nearby, including Mons and Callian, letting guests experience even more of the local cuisine, products and fine arts.

Further Information Terre Blanche Hotel Spa Golf Resort 3100 Route de Bagnols en Foret 83440 Tourrettes en.terre-blanche.com 45 minutes from Nice Airport 90 minutes from Aix-en-Provence

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Tasting the region’s olive oils at Terre Blanche.

An infinity pool caresses the curve of the valley, offering intimate views all around.

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DISCOVER “FÉERIE”,

THE SHOW OF THE MOST FAMOUS CABARET IN THE WORLD ! DINNER & SHOW AT 7PM FROM 175€ • SHOW AT 9PM AND 11PM : 105€ Montmartre - 82, Boulevard de Clichy - 75018 Paris Reservations : 33(0)1 53 09 82 82 - www.moulin-rouge.com 66

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Le Meurice

PALACE dining

Clockwise from left: Le Meurice’s gracious exterior; the Presidential Suite (photo © Guillaume de Laubier); Restaurant le Meurice Alain Ducasse (photo © Pierre Monetta).

GOURMETS, REJOICE – AWARD-WINNING CHEF ALAIN DUCASSE HAS ARRIVED AT LE MEURICE PARIS.

he exclusive wining and dining destinations at Le Meurice Paris have always been top-rated foodie haunts. Now diners have another reason to visit, with world-renowned chef, Alain Ducasse, at the helm of Le Meurice’s culinary operations. His innovative vision and distinctive take on French haute cuisine has been rolled out across his three Michelin-star rated fine dining spot, Restaurant le Meurice Alain Ducasse, the eminently artistic Le Dalí – featuring furniture inspired by Salvador Dalí and a ceiling canvas by Ara Starck – and the intimate and hushed Bar 228. As ever, the impeccably styled and

centrally located hotel itself remains every inch the palace hotel it is reputed to be. Each of the 160 rooms and suites is resplendent in Louis XVI-style furniture, massive marble bathrooms, deluxe furnishings and exclusive amenities. Its level of service, from family-friendly activities to hotel limousine, concierge, fitness, beauty and special events, are unrivalled anywhere in the world. Many rooms have views of Paris’ most iconic sights, perhaps due to the hotel’s prized location in the elegant 1st arrondissement. Le Meurice lies directly opposite the Tuileries Garden and is a short walk away from the city’s most timeless attractions – the Louvre, Musée

d’Orsay, Place Vendôme and the Opera Garnier among them. Further Information Le Meurice Paris 228 rue de Rivoli 75001 Paris France T: + 33 1 44 58 10 10 W: dorchestercollection.com/en/paris/le-meurice E: reservations.LMP@dorchestercollection.com

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Stays

Coups de COEUR Night view over Cannes; infinity pool at the Majestic Barriere’s prestigious Christian Dior suite.

TREAT YOURSELF TO A STAY AT ONE OF THESE WORLD-CLASS ESTABLISHMENTS, WHETHER YOU’RE HEADED TO PARIS, THE RIVIERA OR THE SLOPES OF COURCHEVEL.

ravellers to France have been blessed by an upsurge in luxe accommodation choices – sources cite a 50 per cent increase in four and five-star hotel choices since 2010. Thanks to some exquisite refurbishments and innovative new operators, many of these hotels are unlike anything else you’ll experience worldwide.

HÔTEL MAJESTIC BARRIÈRE, CANNES

HÔTEL MAJESTIC BARRIÈRE 10 La Croisette, 06407 Cannes www.lucienbarriere.com

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The Hôtel Majestic Barrière is one of the grand establishments along the Cannes waterfront, its white Art Deco façade practically the emblem of Riviera chic. The light, bright ambience continues throughout the 265 rooms and 82 suites inside, many offering panoramic Mediterranean views from the generous windows and balconies. The hotel offers two magnificent penthouse suites, one of them the Christian Dior suite, a nod to the great designer’s historic headquarters at 30 avenue Montaigne in Paris. This creative collaboration between Group Lucien Barrière and the House of Dior brings together Pullman armchairs, Louis XVI style tables, original photographic artworks and opulent furnishings, all in an understated silvery palette. But it isn’t just the obvious luxuries found throughout the 450-square-metre space – guests will also have their own personal butler and a magnificent infinity pool on their private rooftop terrace. The public spaces are equally luxurious. The private beach is styled impeccably with matching sun umbrellas and sun lounges. A VIP lounge area, beach restaurant and bar, private jetty and thrilling choice of water sports complete the picture. Other features of the hotel include a choice of chic restaurants serving the finest Niçoise flavours, the brilliantly conceived kids’ club, Club Diwi & Co, the oasis-like Spa My Blend by Clarins and 1,300 square metres of high-end boutiques.

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Culpari te maioribus sitatiae qui dem et ea con cus eveni aut fugiature.

CHEVAL BLANC COURCHEVEL Le Jardin Alpin, 73120 Courchevel 1850 www.chevalblanc.com

CHEVAL BLANC, COURCHEVEL An intimate contemporary haven in exclusive Jardin Alpin, Courchevel, luxury guest residence Cheval Blanc offers just 36 impeccably styled rooms and suites, and an unparalleled level of service. A highlight is the on-site chairlift operated by the establishment, effectively letting guests ski out of their front door. Behind the traditional mountain chalet-style façade lie an array of modern amenities. While the décor incorporates all-natural materials such as stone, wood and fur, it’s executed in a sleek and minimal style that would earn the approval of any design purist. The service extends to Le Carousel, an imaginative children’s play area; the Cheval Blanc Spa, featuring Guerlain snowseason products; hair styling by Parisian hairdresser, John Nollet; and a ski service helping guests prepare their equipment before they hurtle down Courchevel’s renowned pistes. Après ski, savour the menu of vintage liquors, fine wines and cigars by the fire at The Cigar Lounge or tea at The White Bar, before taking a seat at the two Michelin-star restaurant Le 1947 (named after the hotel’s most prestigious vintage). Headed by acclaimed chef Yannick Alléno, Le 1947 serves a flurry of tantalising modern French dishes from breakfast through to dinner, which can be enjoyed on the contem-

porary terrace or inside the warm dining area. For an even more highbrow dining experience, Cheval Blanc lets groups host exclusive dinner parties at its La Table de Partage. Contemporary sculptures outside hint at the chaletlike Cheval Blanc’s modern interiors; living area of one of the guest suites.

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Above: the hotel’s lobby is filled with genuine period light fittings, furnishings and artworks.

L’HOTEL DU COLLECTIONNEUR ARC DE TRIOMPHE, PARIS Located in the Arc de Triomphe and Champs-Elysées vicinity, and with a scale and style all of its own, is the five-star L’Hotel du Collectionneur, one of Paris’ grandest examples of Art Deco architecture located across from Parc Monceau. The imposing exterior façade (and much interior styling) has an ocean liner aesthetic; opulent finishes and features cover every available surface. Graceful relief sculptures adorn the exterior walls all around the massive private courtyard garden – one of Paris’ largest at 800 square metres. Back inside, each of the 478 rooms and suites continues the period theme, with a dark berry palette, organic lines and retro light fittings. The execution throughout is modern, with air-conditioning, large TVs, broadband

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internet access and luxury amenities a given. All rooms have a view, whether it’s over the serene interior garden or outwards to the streets of Paris, some even facing the Eiffel Tower. Guest facilities include the Mosaic Spa, offering a large range of exclusive care treatments, and restaurant Le Safran, serving refined French cuisine both on the outdoor terrace and in a dining room studded with Art Deco lighting and sculptures. Cocktails and light meals are served over at the chic Purple Bar. Business guests are well served, with seven modular meeting rooms that can be arranged into 20 different configurations, across a vast 1,700 square metres of naturally lit corporate space. The hotel also offers a business centre staffed by dedicated personnel to ensure guests’ business events achieve all their desired outcomes.

L’HOTEL DU COLLECTIONNEUR ARC DE TRIOMPHE 51–57 rue de Courcelles, 75008 Paris www.hotelducollectionneur.com

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SOFITEL PARIS ARC DE TRIOMPHE 14 rue Beaujon, 75008 Paris www.sofitel.com

SOFITEL PARIS ARC DE TRIOMPHE Classic pied-à-terre chic combines with internationally renowned service at the Sofitel Paris Arc de Triomphe, an intimate escape set within a Haussmann-era Parisian mansion that opened to the public after an extensive overhaul in 2013. Guests can choose from 124 elegant rooms and suites fitted out in a natural palette designed for utter rest and relaxation. Oversized baths invite the busiest traveller to postpone their next appointment, while other deluxe touches include a Bose sound system, Nespresso machine and minibar kitted out with holistic treats such as homemade lemon soda and boutique beer. Perhaps the hotel’s most distinguishing feature is its Studio Putman-designed interior concept, a nod to the late Andrée Putman. Parquetry, bistro tables, black-andwhite checkerboard floors and oak panelling feature throughout, along with artworks by longtime artist friends of Putman including Tinguely, Christo and Alechinsky. Only to be expected of Sofitel (which operates 120 addresses in 40 nations across five continents) is its matchless approach to service. Fitness, business and concierge services are available around the clock, and the hotel’s dining areas offer rich pickings. Head chef Thomas Bruno, a self-professed ‘locavore’, creates fresh modern French cuisine at restaurant L’initial, while Le Bar doubles as a tearoom during the daytime.

The Sofitel Arc de Triomphe’s Haussmann-mansion façade; world-class wines and canapés at the bar.

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CABARET S U O M A : THE F S-ÉLYSÉES P M A H C OF on stage, 70 artistes ostumes, c s u o tu p . 600 sum ental sets.. 23 monum

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CHAMPAGNE & SHOW

116 bis avenue des Champs - Élysées 75 008 Paris - Tel. : +33 (0)1 40 76 56 49 - E-mail : tourisme@lido.fr 72

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Indulge MAGNIFICENT 18TH-CENTURY STYLING AND A NEW WAY OF EXPERIENCING FINE FOOD ARE JUST SOME OF THE OFFERINGS AT THE FOUR SEASONS HOTEL GEORGE V, PARIS.

ld-world opulence and the most finely attuned level of service imagined come together at Four Seasons Hotel George V, Paris, one of just several accommodations designated a ‘palace hotel’ by France’s national tourism authority. Behind its distinctive Art Deco façade, the landmark eight-story building boasts 244 luxurious rooms and suites, each resplendent in Louis XV-style furnishings, multimedia facilities, marble bathrooms and more. Several suites have their own private balcony; the largest have eight-person dinner settings and other luxuries. From here, it’s one inspirational experience after the next: floral displays composed from 9,000 blooms each week; signature beauty treatments at the spa; a 24-hour concierge who will organise family activities, outings to Paris’ bestloved markets, and other exclusive services. Then there’s the food. Headed by executive chef Eric Briffard, restaurant Le Cinq has two Michelin stars and offers a regularly updated array of seasonal creations, along with signature dishes such as Blue Lobster. Until October 2014, hotel guests can join Briffard on an exclusive outing to a typically Parisian food market, to learn how the chef selects produce from his suppliers, before joining him back in the kitchen to prepare a dish from these. Places are limited, so book early. Complementing Briffard’s culinary magic is the restaurant’s 2,200 label-strong wine list, housed in a cavernous stone cellar 14 metres below ground. Curated by award-winning sommelier Eric Beaumard, the collection numbers 50,000 bottles in all. Guests are invited to join Beaumard at a wine-tasting session each month, to experience the collection’s crème de la crème, accompanied with canapés.

Crème de la CRÈME From top: ParisBrest aux noisettes Piémont at Le Cinq; unforgettable views from the penthouse suite; the restaurant’s inimitably Parisian setting (all photos: George V).

Further Information Four Seasons Hotel George V, Paris www.fourseasons.com/paris

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Enjoy the delights of Paris this year.

CRT IDF/Castro/Sipapress

Thanks to the Diggers of yesteryear. The 100th Anniversary of WW1 is a special time to remember Australia’s magnificent contribution and to enjoy all that Paris offers - especially, of course, the gratitude France still holds for the Australian Diggers.

www.visitparisregion.com 74

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Paris and its region

A moveable FEAST RICHLY IMBUED WITH THE SCARS OF TWO DEVASTATING WORLD WARS, PARIS TODAY THRUMS WITH FOOD, FASHION AND FANTASY. BY SALLY HAMMOND

Top: Citröen tour of Paris, shown here at Sacre Coeur (photo © ProEvent/Damien Keller); Les Ombres restaurant at Musée du quai Branly, an Elior group restaurant (photo © Noé Duchaufour-Lawrance).

croll back a century to early 1914. This was the year that Paris let her hair down and partied. It was a joyous season of ragtime dancing, filmy dresses and freedom to travel, explore art and make plans. That was before the outbreak of the war later termed the Great War, because who could imagine then that it would be only the first of two major world conflicts to come? Within months of those glittering New Year celebrations, protestors marched in Paris streets and doom-rumours began to circulate. By the end of July, France was at war and Paris was going into a lockdown that lasted for the next four years. In that conflict, 5.5 million would die and over twice that many would be wounded. Australia lost 61,000 soldiers or 1.38 per cent of the country’s population at the time. Their bodies were laid to rest under simple white crosses in the endless fields of lost futures in northern France. While fighting raged throughout the north, the French capital battled for freedom too. Strategically, Paris provided a pipeline of resources to the troops, but this was at such great risk that in 1917 plans for a ‘fake’ Paris were developed, to act as a decoy for German bombers intent on destroying the great city. Then, in World War II, the city was occupied for four years from 1940. This year, the Paris region celebrates two major war-related anniversaries – the 1914 centenary, and 70 years since the city’s WWII liberation in 1944. To put it all into perspective, visit Mission du Centenaire, (centenaire.org/en) or see the extensive Musee de la Grand Guerre in Meaux (www.museedelagrandeguerre.eu), outside Paris. Battlefield Tours (www.battlefields.com. au) also organises tours to key sites.

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Left: Demory Bar (photo by MegaMiam, via Flickr). Right: Artwork from Mugler Follies cabaret (photo © Christian Gautier/ MTML/Manfred T. Mugler); visiting a fish market in rue Mouffetard (photo © Atout France/ Cédric Helsly).

‘FUN’ DE SIÈCLE Despite those important historical markers, today’s Paris and its region are all about nouveau. No other destination understands so completely how to mix the old with the new, avantgarde with traditional, bizarre with classic. Call it hip-chic if you like. And these days, it is just as likely to appear on your plate as on the catwalk. See for yourself by experiencing as many as possible of these (mostly new and definitely fashionable) Parisian delights: Taste Paris region: • La Route des Gourmets attention! (laroutedesgourmets.com/Foodlovers). Tours, walks, workshops, excursions – all with a French food and cuisine theme. • Meeting the French (en.meetingthefrench. com). Enjoy a moment never to be forgotten; intimate dinner with Parisians in their own apartment. • Nüba (www.nuba-paris.fr). Night transforms Paris dramatically, and where better to experience the vibe than this new party-central spot, with views of the Seine, great music and top food. • Mugler Follies (muglerfollies.com). What could be more Parisian than this new nightspot? Über-stylish high-end performances, high tech presentations, and dinner by Fouquet’s. • Elior museums restaurants (www.eliorevenements.com). These restaurants, located in major Paris region museums, make the ideal place to enjoy fine food and relaxation. Several, such as Le Café du Musée Rodin, Les Ombres and Le Ciel de Paris, have stunning views.

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Shop Paris region: • Galeries Lafayette (haussmann.galerieslafayette.com/en/). Everyone loves this temple to shopping – the western hemisphere’s largest. Even if you don’t spend a eurocent, please admire the soaring 1912 glass cupola. • One Nation Paris (www.onenation.fr). New in 2013, near to the Château de Versailles, this is chic high-end shopping as only the French know how to do. • Saint-Ouen Flea Market (www.marcheauxpuces-saintouen.com). Part tourist attraction, part serious haggling ground, no-one should miss this potpourri of antiques, designer ware and kitsch. Catch an event: • Musée National Picasso (www.museepicassoparis.fr/). Reopening in June 2014 after a total overhaul, this unique collection is a must-see. • Le roman d’Impression, Soleil levant, Musée Marmottan Monet (www.marmottan.fr/uk), September 18, 2014, to January 18, 2015. See Monet’s famous Impression Sunrise and learn of its influence on Impressionism. • Baccarat, Trésors de cristal (www.petitpalais. paris.fr), October 8, 2014, to January 4, 2015. Celebrating the Baccarat’s 250th anniversary and displaying 300 priceless pieces. Thrill to Paris region: • Ballon de Paris (www.ballondeparis.com). This stationary hot air balloon rises to 150 metres for unequalled views of Paris. • Aviaxess (www.aviaxess.com). Could there be a better way to see Paris and its region than by helicopter? The return trip to Versailles takes in all the major landmarks. • Airship by Zeppelin (www.airship-paris.fr). Low and slow and with plenty of time to enjoy the magical city below. Four tours take in nearby châteaux and scenic spots.

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Clockwise from top left: Saint Ouen flea market illustration, created for Woody Allen’s ‘Midnight in Paris’ (original illustration by Jiiakuann, via Flickr); bags in the window of a boutique along Rue Saint Honoré (photo © Nathalie Baetens/ Atout France); restaurant Ciel de Paris at Tour Montparnasse, operated by the Elior group (photo © Noé DuchaufourLawrance); the grand interior beneath the cupola of Galeries Lafayette (photo © Hélène Giansily/CRT IDF).

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Clockwise from lower left: Display and exterior of Musée de la Grand Guerre (photo: ©H.Giansily/CRT PIdF); Arc de Triomphe (photo: © G. Targat/ CRT PIdF).

HeaDInG Goes Here

Explore Paris region: • Arc de Triomphe (arc-de-triomphe.monuments-nationaux.fr). More than just a key landmark in the city, here lies the unknown soldier, his First World War death commemorated daily by a memorial flame lit at 6.30pm. • Fondation Louis Vuitton (www.fondationlouisvuitton.fr). In the Bois de Boulogne, the new building’s avant-garde architecture matches its contemporary art collection and temporary exhibitions. • Musée de la Grande Guerre à Meaux (www. museedelagrandeguerre.eu). Located on the Marne front lines, this museum provides an unforgettable overview of the First World War and its effects on the Paris region and the world. 78

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• André Citröen drive (www.4roues-sous-1parapluie.com). A 2CV-lover’s dream tour of Paris regions connected with André Citröen. • Shuttles and tours of Paris and its region with PARISCityVISION (www.pariscityvision. com). Explore three major nearby attractions between April 1 and October 31 (days vary): Vaux le Vicomte and Fontainebleau château and gardens; Zoological Park of Thoiry; medieval city of Provins, including the Grange aux Dîmes, Tour César, and The Eagles of the Ramparts show. Visit the site for details on its Royal Evening at Versailles tour as well, which features a light and water event in the gardens.

Take in as many of these places as you can and you will begin to appreciate the can-do creativity of the Paris region and its people, and understand how it withstood the attacks of its neighbours in those wars. And why 2014 is a year to celebrate all that. Further Information Visit Paris Region en.visitparisregion.com/

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Amazing views at every turn Meandering from Paris to Normandy, the magnificent Seine forms a remarkable backdrop for romantics and artists alike. Rising in the Vosges mountains, the Saône threads its way south flowing through the picturesque, vineyard lined banks of the famed Burgundy wine region, before meeting the Rhône at Lyon. Originating high in the Swiss Alps, the Rhône winds past fragrant lavender fields, castles, vineyards, and charming Provençal villages. Take a river cruise with Avalon, your key to unlocking the secrets of France. Three Ways to Book Contact your travel agent | Call 1300 230 234 | or visit avalonwaterways.com.au SCAN to view our avalon video clip

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More itineraries available. See website for details. Conditions apply. *Save $1000 per couple - valid for new bookings to 30/06/14 on select 2015 Avalon Waterways European cruise itineraries and departures. All care is taken to promote correct pricing at time of printing, is dependent upon cruise and cabin availability and will be confirmed at time of reservation. Prices are per person twin share, correct as of 9 Apr 2014, and include $500 per person discount, port charges & gratuities. Offer not applicable to Avalon/Royal Suites (Jnr Suites). Valid for singles-single supplement applies. Cannot be combined with any other offers except Second Tour, Early Payment and Journey’s Club member discounts (must be a Journeys Club member, and present member number at time of booking before deposit is paid, to receive a 5% discount based on Category E twin share price, excluding extra night accommodations, extension programs, port charges, upgrades and single supplements). Applies to new 2015 Europe bookings only and subject to changes and amendments. Only to be used once by each travelling passenger and is not redeemable for cash. Non-refundable, non-transferable deposit of $500pp/per cruise required within 7 days of booking to secure reservation. Offers can be withdrawn or amended at any time. Additional restrictions may apply. For full terms and conditions 79 see the 2015 Avalon Waterways brochure or visit avalonwaterways.com.au Licence No. 2TA000637 MAGAZINE

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ON VISITING THE MEMORIAL OF A LONG-GONE RELATIVE KILLED DURING COMBAT IN THE SOMME, SALLY HAMMOND FOUND A SERENE LANDSCAPE THAT BELIED ITS WAR-TORN PAST.

Fallen in France

Tribute to a young DIGGER

Benjamin Miles McKenzie Matthews in his soldier’s uniform. He was killed two months before his 24th birthday.

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’m Benjamin Miles McKenzie Matthews – and if you laugh I’ll ‘fump’ you’’. When he was a child, this was how one of my mother’s favourite uncles would always introduce himself. I grew up hearing that anecdote, loving its cadence. To be landed with such a handle must have been a heavy burden for a lad. He dealt with it. Pity he couldn’t deal so well with the grenade that, just years later, blew his young body to pieces, leaving nothing to bury. The huge wall where his name is recorded at Villers-Bretonneux in the Somme region is dense with names from many battalions of Australian and New Zealand forces, which opposed the forces sweeping these now-slumbering plains. Today I find his name halfway up on the left, under the 11th Battalion, carved proudly: B. M. Matthews. He was just 24. I shed a tear for this young man I never met, for I am the mother of a son, too. Today the Somme region is quiet, holding memories, hosting the graves of those they could bury. The sight of endless fields of ordered white headstones is shattering. The sheer scope of the loss is incomprehensible – a million-and-half dead, missing and wounded, from both sides, including prisoners. Yet some remember with more gratitude. At the Victoria school in Villers-Bretonneux, schoolchildren learn Waltzing Matilda. There is an Australian flag, and carved possums and platypuses in the hall. A sign reads ‘N’Oublions Jamais l’Australie’ – let us never forget Australia.

ENDURING SPIRIT OF FREEDOM Almost 100 years since the final shots of the First World War, the gunfire is just a stutter in the history books. Today’s Somme is sleepy and safe. Although not on the major tourist routes, there is still much to see and do. Battlefield tours of course, but more besides. The 13th century Gothic cathedral at Amiens is just a couple of hours’ drive from Paris. Twice as big as Paris’ Notre Dame Cathedral, it weathered the war, miraculously unscathed. Again, there is an antipodean connection. A plaque of remembrance on a prominent column pays homage to our soldiers.

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Clockwise from top left: Australian Memorial at Villers-Bretonneux; Private Matthews’ name inscribed on the memorial wall (photo © Sally Hammond); overview of the graves at VillersBretonneux (memorial photos © Nicolas Bryant).

Everywhere there are wartime reminders. At Albert, the golden virgin again stands, glowing triumphantly atop the spire of the famous Notre-Dame de Brebières. For much of the war, after being hit by a German shell in January 1915, she hung horizontally, defying gravity, still inspiring hope. Péronne’s Historial de la Grande Guerre is perhaps the most comprehensive World War I museum anywhere. Here, mementos, archival film footage and static displays bring the war grimly to life. At Pozières, the inspiration for a namesake town in Queensland, two memorials face each other. A popular stop for history-buffs is the Tommy Bar (Le Tommy), a café-pub, a mini-museum of memorabilia. Today’s Somme is not haunted by the ghosts of those who tramped over it, lying peaceful, as do they. Benjamin Miles (McKenzie) Matthews, I won’t laugh at your name. I salute you, and all those like you, who left just their names for us to weep and wonder over. And remember. This story is the abridged version of an article originally published in Travel and Living magazine. B.M. Matthews left Australia in October 1916, joined his Battalion in France on the 10th February 1917, and was killed just over two months later, on April 15, 1917.

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Above: Flemish-Baroque style townhouses and the imposing Arras Town Hall. Opposite: the Cobber of Fromelles statue (photo © Flament).

Bitter SWEET

THE SPLENDID SCENERY, FABULOUS MUSEUMS AND LIVELY DINING SCENE IN NORTHERN FRANCE FORM A COMPELLING BACKDROP TO THE SOBER CENTENARY EVENTS MARKING THE GREAT WAR. BY PERSEPHONE NICHOLAS

orthern France is blessed with some of the most beautiful and peaceful beaches in France. Much of the 140-kilometre Opal Coast is protected, and the marshland is home to many species of indigenous flora and fauna. The region has three forested parks, plus the highest concentration of museums in France. There are art galleries, UNESCO World Heritage sites (including 17th century citadels and many historic belfries) and plenty to tempt the gourmet traveller. Local Michelin-starred chefs include Marc Meurin, who has four restaurants here, and Alexandre Gauthier, whose restaurant, La Grenouillere, has made the tiny village of La Madeleine-sous-Montreuil a mecca for foodie visitors. The region is located in the centre of the triangle that links Paris, Brussels and London and is home to two important cities. Lille, on

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the Belgian border, is the regional capital, while Arras, which is midway between the battlefields of the Somme and the Ypres Salient, played a crucial role in the Great War. Arras was virtually destroyed in the war, but has been rebuilt and become famous for its elegant city squares. As the centenary of the Great War beckons, Northern France – the site of so many historic battles – will host commemorative ceremonies, events and exhibitions. These events will help visitors remember the fallen, and understand the context of their sacrifice. Recommendations include: The International Ring of Peace War Memorial at Notre-Dame-de-Lorette Designed by architect Philippe Prost and being inaugurated in November 2014, this huge elliptical memorial is engraved with the names of 600,000 soldiers who died in Northern France. Former allies and foes are listed side by side, in alphabetical order and without mention of their nationality.

The Disasters Of War Exhibition 1800-2014 (28 May-6 October 2014) at the Louvre-Lens This temporary exhibition brings together a unique collection of artworks from the Paris Louvre on the theme of battle through the ages. A diverse range of media (including painting, sculpture, graphic arts, photography, video, installations and cartoons) explores the dreadful consequences of war on humanity and civilisation. Archaeology of the Great War exhibition in Arras This exhibition opens in April 2015, some 100 years after the first Battle of Artois. It aims to demonstrate how archaeology can enrich (or challenge) our understanding of the Great War. Visitors can gain insight into what soldiers ate, their religious practices, how they managed death on the battlefields and more. www.explorearras.com

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HIKING AND CYCLING TRAILS IN HOMAGE TO THE DIGGERS Northern France is home to many sites that bear the scars of two world wars and commemorate the sacrifice of those who fought here. Visitors can now explore the Remembrance Trails by hiking or cycling. There are several routes, including the Battle of Fromelles trail, which enable visitors to retrace the footsteps of the diggers. There is an illustrated guide for each route, which can be downloaded to any device.

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Below – International memorial to the 600,000 soldiers who fell across Northern France during WW1 (photo © AA Philippe Prost).

GREAT GOURMET EXPERIENCES IN NORTHERN FRANCE 1. Tasting the fresh seafood at La Matelote in Boulogne. Or savouring the wood-smoked fish at JC David’s workshop. 2. Brushing up your cooking skills with Michelin-starred chef Marc Meurin at Le Chateau de Beaulieu in Busnes. There’s a sommelier on hand for wine tips, too. 3. Exploring the Marais Audomarois, a vast UNESCO heritage-listed market garden laced with canals and waterways. Look out for local specialties including chicory and cauliflower. 4. Discovering some of the region’s simple pleasures on the local beer and cheese routes. 5. Experiencing culinary heaven at la Grenouillère, the hip new restaurant from Alexandre Gauthier in La Madeleine-sous-Montrueil.

THE AUSTRALIAN REMEMBRANCE TRAIL The Australian Remembrance Trail (www. ww1westernfront.gov.au/) is a ‘trail within the trails’ that honours and commemorates the service of Australians on the Western Front (some 48,000 were killed here). It links some of the most important locations in the nation’s history. These include the newly upgraded Museum Jean and Denise Letaille - Bullecourt 1917. Exhibits include a poignant collection of personal effects and memorabilia that help reveal the human tragedy behind the two Battles of Bullecourt. Almost 11,000 diggers were killed or injured in these offensives. The new Museum of the Battle of Fromelles tells the story of Australian soldiers’ first conflict along the Western Front. Many survived the eight-month campaign in Gallipoli only to die

here. The battle on 19 July 1916 left more than 5,500 wounded, dead or missing, and is often described as ‘the worst 24 hours in Australia’s war history.’ The new military cemetery at Fromelles is the first new Commonwealth War Graves Commission cemetery for more than 50 years. It was created after the major archaeological discovery of a mass grave at Pheasant Wood, where the bodies of 250 Australian and British soldiers were found. These men were reburied with full military honours. Melbourne sculptor Peter Corlett’s famous ‘Cobber’ statue stands in the Australian Memorial Park nearby. It shows Victorian farmer-turned-soldier Sergeant Simon Fraser of the 57th Battalion, who disobeyed orders to leave the trenches and recover wounded soldiers lying in no-man’s land.

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THE COURAGE OF THE KIWIS New Zealand too made a valiant contribution to the Great War. More than 100,000 Kiwis enlisted and traveled to the Western Front to fight. Like their Australian counterparts they sustained heavy losses; around 12,500 men died and more than 40,000 were injured here. Kiwi courage is particularly remembered at two important locations. The Wellington Quarry is now a museum that tells the story of how Kiwi tunnellers helped create a labyrinth connecting the old chalk quarries beneath Arras. In April 1917, thousands of soldiers hid here and waited for a huge explosion, the signal to rise and attack enemy troops. The New Zealand Memorial at Le Quesnoy commemorates the bravery of the Kiwi soldiers who liberated the fortified town in November 1918. They breached the German defence with artillery, and climbed over the town walls using ladders in a medieval-style attack that surprised and defeated the enemy. Further Information Northern France Regional Tourism Board www.northernfrance-tourism.com www.remembrancetrails-northernfrance.com

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Memorial relief sculpture at the Le Quesnoy New Zealand Memorial (photo ÂŠ S Dhote); sculptures in the Time Gallery of the new Louvre-Lens Museum (photo ÂŠ Louvre-Lens/Philippe Chancel).

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Normandy

In good TASTE

AS NORMANDY COMMEMORATES THE D-DAY LANDINGS, THE LAND OF LIBERTY OFFERS HISTORICAL HIGHLIGHTS, STRIKING SCENERY AND A RICH TRADITION OF GASTRONOMIC PLEASURES. BY VANESSA COUCHMAN

ormandy is easy to get to but hard to tear yourself away from. It’s an idyllic destination for culture, scenery and food. The region boasts some of France’s most magnificent treasures, from the precious Bayeux Tapestry to Mont Saint-Michel rearing out of the sea, both heritage-listed by UNESCO. Chic seaside resorts such as Deauville contrast with half-timbered medieval mansions in Rouen, rustic towns and villages inland and mighty châteaux along the River Seine.

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You’ll understand why the Impressionists were so taken with Normandy when you see the tranquil scenery and the changing light playing over ancient buildings and waterways. Monet’s garden at Giverny and the Gothic Cathedral at Rouen are among the many subjects for painters. Normandy is a foodie’s paradise par excellence. The endless coastline and lush pastures are the foundation of the region’s culinary reputation. Talented chefs like Alexandre Bourdas at SaQaNa in Honfleur and Philippe Hardy at Le Mascaret in Blainville-sur-Mer give a creative turn to traditional ingredients.

Mussels are married with crème fraîche in one of Normandy’s signature dishes, moules à la normande. Lamb, chicken and Rouen duck are on the main course menu. And the selection of cheeses is to die for. Camembert, Livarot, Neufchâtel and Pont l’Evêque are appreciated the world over. This is the land of apples, cider and Calvados, the apple brandy that has been distilled for centuries. Take the signposted cider trail east of Caen through the scenic Cambremer district and enjoy tastings of cider and Calvados at producers along the way.

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LEARN MORE Official commemoration website www.the70th-normandy.com

1944-2014: NORMANDY CELEBRATES LIBERTY This year, the region commemorates the 70th anniversary of the D-Day landings and the Battle of Normandy. On 6 June 1944, the biggest armada ever launched carried thousands of Allied soldiers across the English Channel. They stormed the blustery beaches and scaled the chalk cliffs along a 100-kilometre stretch of coastline. The landing beaches, with the evocative codenames Utah, Omaha, Gold, Juno and Sword, will be candidates for UNESCO World Heritage status this year. The landings, codenamed Operation Neptune, were the first phase of Operation Overlord to liberate Europe. Fierce fighting took place as the German forces resisted the waves of assaults. Troops overran the Norman countryside as the combat continued inland over the patchwork of fields and high hedges known as the bocage. This year’s decennial commemoration is especially poignant. The numbers of war veterans and civilian witnesses are dwindling. Special ceremonies will honour the Allied forces who, with great sacrifice, liberated Normandy, France and the rest of Europe. They will also pay tribute to the bravery of the Norman people. Many museums and commemorative spaces bear witness to the events of 1944. The Caen Memorial Museum is a good starting point for understanding World War II and the key events that took place. Tours of the beachheads and eight circuits in chronological sequence (www.normandiememoire.com) enable you to follow the Battle of Normandy as it unfolded. Plenty of other initiatives are planned. They include exhibitions, jazz and classical concerts, guided walks, films and firework displays.

Opposite: low tide at Mont-Saint-Michel (photo © Thierry Seni). This page, from top: war liberation celebrations at Bayeux; visiting the British War Cemetery; parade in Isignysur-Mer (all photos this page © Thierry Houyel).

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HIPSTER HAUTE CUISINE There are countless chic places to relax and enjoy Normandy’s culinary treasures after days immersing yourself in its heritage and following its history. The Manoir de Rétival (www.restaurant-ga. fr) by the River Seine at Caudebec-en-Caux occupies a former Templar site. It boasts three elegantly-decorated apartment-style rooms. Guests eat around a refectory table in the kitchen while chef David cooks up local delicacies. His deft touch transforms meat, fish, seafood, local vegetables and, naturally, cheese and cream. The medieval harbour town of Honfleur with its cobbled streets and narrow quayside houses lies between the Seine’s tidal estuary and the Pays d’Auge, the orchard of Normandy. In the streamlined décor of SaQaNa (www.alexandrebourdas.com), Alexandre Bourdas delights with his combinations of flavours, shapes and colours. His cuisine fuses his childhood memories and travel experiences. Plaice prepared with Oriental spices or monkfish with lime and coriander are among his creations. If you’re seeking a peaceful haven offering spa treatments and pampering, look no further than Thalazur Cabourg (http://cabourg.thalazur. fr). The seaside resort of Cabourg is just along

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the coast from Caen and offers a good base for exploring the celebrated shoreline. The new luxury spa and hotel complex affords breathtaking views of the beach and the sea. Enjoy the heated seawater swimming pool and the stateof-the-art therapies.

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Set in the wooded heartland, former hunting lodge the Pavillon de Gouffern (www.pavillondegouffern.com) is a four-star boutique hotel with its own park. The refined décor offers all modern comforts and you’ll find leisure activities aplenty. You might catch a glimpse of deer at dusk from the restaurant. The accent is on fish, seafood and local veal. Don’t miss nearby Argentan, badly damaged in 1944 but restored to its former splendour. Among the most innovative cooking in the region, Le Mascaret (www.lemascaret.fr) in Blainville-sur-Mer is a must. Chef Philippe Hardy has earned a Michelin star for his delectable dishes. His Bulgarian wife, Nadia, a former prima ballerina, has imported a touch of Slavic style to the design. Philippe gives a creative twist to fish, duck, apples, Camembert cheese and vegetables from his own garden. The molecular theatricals with liquid nitrogen at dessert take some beating. Monet lovers can feast their eyes on the artist’s Japanese garden and the Impressionist works at Giverny’s museum before heading to boutique hotel Le Jardin des Plumes (www.lejardindesplumes.fr). A colleague of Gustave Eiffel of Tower fame built this unique residence in 1912. Eric Guérin has faithfully restored the Art Déco interiors. Relish dishes based on local veal and pork. Or try scallops wrapped in ham and famed Vallée d’Auge chicken with apples, Calvados and crème fraîche.

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Not far away, the Moulin de Connelles (www.moulin-deconnelles.fr) is worthy of an Impressionist masterpiece. This turreted, halftimbered Norman manor house, built in the 18th century, is now a four star hotel. The 12 suites and bedrooms mostly overlook the River Seine. The oak-panelled dining room stretches over the former millwheel: the perfect place for a romantic gourmet meal. Savour chicken breast with cider, roast salmon and desserts based on apples and Calvados. Further Information Normandy Tourist Board www.normandy-tourism.org

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Clockwise from top left: selection of Normandy produce (photo© Patrick Forget); Monet’s renowned garden and home at Giverny (photo © Thierry Houyell); beachside art on the boardwalk at Deauville (photo © Patrice le Bris); sampling calvados at Restaurant la Licorne in Lyons-la-Fôret (photo © Thierry Houyell).

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The Rocher de la Vierge, with its statue of the Virgin said to protect sailors from storms, is linked by a bridge to the coast of Biarritz in Basque country (photo © JJ Brochard/CRTA).

Aquitaine-Bordeaux

Eat DRINK south west

REGION OF GASTRONOMIC TRADITIONS, LIVELY FESTIVITIES AND STUNNING LANDSCAPES, AQUITAINE OFFERS BOUNDLESS VARIETY AND A GENEROUS TASTE OF THE ART DE VIVRE. BY VANESSA COUCHMAN

tretching from the rolling breakers and pine forests of the Atlantic coastline to the wooded gorges of the Périgord, Aquitaine in south-west France is one of Europe’s most diverse regions. Its inhabitants’ proud attachment to their local identities matches the varied landscapes. The region is steeped in history, with highlights including the prehistoric caves in the Vézère Valley, the ‘1,000 châteaux’ of the Dordogne, the fin-de-siècle Basque coast resorts and the ancient port of Bordeaux –

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the region’s famous capital (see related story). Aquitaine is renowned for first-rate produce: prune plums from Agen; foie gras and duck from Gascony; Pyrenean cheeses; and Atlantic fish and seafood. And, of course, it’s one of the world’s great wine-producing areas.

SHOP AND COOK Learn about the region’s signature products. Don your boots and join oyster farmers at work in the Bay of Arcachon before tasting the succulent molluscs (www.bassin-arcachon. com). Visit a farm that breeds sturgeon for

Aquitaine caviar (www.moulindelacassadotte. com). Or tour the salt marsh at Salies-de-Béarn (www.sel-salies-de-bearn.com), whose crystalline salt is much valued by top chefs. Aquitaine provides countless opportunities for learning to cook its culinary riches. Head to Bergerac, which has claimed the nasally endowed Cyrano as a local hero, for a day package that includes a cooking class (www.weekendenperigord.com). Discover the region’s black diamond, the Périgord truffle, at the Auberge de la Truffe (www.auberge-de-latruffe.com) in Sorges, where Pierre Corre shares

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The castle of Castelnaud in the Dordogne area has magnificent views over other nearby medieval châteaux and villages (photo © JJ Brochard/CRTA).

his passion for this highly-prized fungus. The stylish Domaine de Bassilour (www.domainedebassilour.com) is close to Biarritz’s fashionable beaches and overlooks the Pyrenees. Choose from a variety of courses, from making a Basque cake to creating a gourmet feast.

CANAL CUISINE The Garonne canal, once a thriving waterway, has undergone a renovation programme. Restored to their former glory, several lock-keepers’ houses have become auberges. Number 33 is gourmet restaurant La Poule à Vélo (www.lapouleavelo.fr) while Number 42, La Chope et le Pichet (www.lachope-et-lepichet.fr), offers bistro-style sustenance to hungry cyclists and walkers.

IMMERSED IN WINE

CORNUCOPIA OF FESTIVITIES

A boat trip is a relaxing way to explore the sights and the Bordeaux vineyards. Numerous cruise companies offer standard or tailor-made guided excursions by the hour, day or longer. Discover the Gironde estuary and its islands, taste Médoc and Sauternes at prestigious wine estates or spend an evening at the Maison du Fleuve, the Gironde’s restaurant on stilts, accessible by boat. Fancy joining the ranks of the Bordeaux winemakers? Sign up with VINIV (www.makebordeauxwine.com) and make your own boutique wine in the Médoc. Or rent a row of vines at Domaine de la Queyssie in Saussignac (www.monvignoble.fr) and enjoy a share of the production.

Aquitaine celebrates its array of produce throughout the year. In February, the Périgord town of Sarlat hosts its famous goose fair. Chocoholics will be in paradise at Bayonne’s ‘Chocolate Days’ in May, with visits to chocolate workshops and indulgent tastings. Agen honours its most famous product, the prune, in August. The medieval hilltop town of Saint-Émilion marks the start of the grape harvest in September. And you can get into the spirit of things in October during the festival at Bastide d’Armagnac, home of fiery Armagnac brandy. Further Information Aquitaine Tourist Board www.tourism-aquitaine.com

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CENTRE OF A LEGENDARY WINE GROWING REGION, BORDEAUX IS A VIBRANT AND SOPHISTICATED CITY AS WELL AS A TOP GOURMET AND CULTURE DESTINATION. BY VANESSA COUCHMAN

Wine-tasting at the Château Pape Clément (photo: Quai des Lunes). Below: Bordeaux’s famous Cathedral Saint-André; grape vines at Place de la Bourse (both photos: V Bengold).

Bordeaux

OF wines divine

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ynonymous with fine wines, Bordeaux is one of France’s most elegant cities. The wine trade financed the grand boulevards, spacious squares and palatial buildings reminiscent of Paris, but the city’s charm is all its own. This UNESCO World Heritage site is ultra-resplendent after its recent makeover. Bordeaux’s setting on the River Garonne has made it an important port for centuries. It’s the ideal base for exploring the legendary names and wine châteaux of Médoc, St Emilion and Bordeaux. A gourmet’s paradise, the city boasts colourful markets, Michelinstarred restaurants and the pick of the region’s produce, such as Arcachon oysters and Aquitaine caviar.

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GOURMET HEAVEN A stylish boutique hotel and gastronomic restaurant (www.bernard-magrez.com) will open in the city centre in 2014, the fruit of a partnership between Bernard Magrez, one of France’s top winemakers, and multi-starred chef Joël Robuchon. The six-suite hotel occupies an opulent 1900 mansion opposite the Bernard Magrez Cultural Institute, which hosts art exhibitions and supports young artists. Robuchon’s gourmet restaurant will pair his matchless cuisine with the region’s fabulous produce and vintages. Fancy learning about fine French cuisine from a top chef? Côté Cours at the SaintJames Hotel (www.saintjames-bouliac.com/ fr/ecole-de-cuisine) has tailor-made cookery courses from simple to sophisticated for everyone from novices to experts. Discover what wines to serve with your culinary creations at the Bordeaux Wine School (www. bordeaux.com). Head to the magnificent 18th-century headquarters of the Bordeaux

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Wine Council for year-round workshops on the world of wine, including tastings and vineyard tours. Bilingual guided tours and tutored tastings (www.bordeaux-tourisme.com) on wine-related themes to suit every palate are also on the menu in Bordeaux. The highpoint is a must-see outing to the grape harvest, from mid-September to mid-October, when the region’s vineyards are buzzing with activity. Learn how wine is made, savour a traditional lunch and sample the wines at a château.

FESTIVALS GALORE The Weekend des Grands Crus (www. ugcb.com) in May showcases the region’s most prestigious wines. Taste over 100 of the greatest Bordeaux vintages and meet the châteaux owners under one roof, an opportunity normally open only to wine trade professionals. Dine at a château, tour the vineyards, enjoy an evening at the Bordeaux Opera House or make for the greens for a golf tournament at the Golf du Médoc course.

Soak up the atmosphere at the 9th Bordeaux Wine Festival (www.bordeaux-fete-le-vin.com) in June, which takes place along the quays in the historic Chartrons district. The heart of this fourday celebration is the famous ‘wine road’, more than two kilometres of marquees devoted to the region’s appellations. The program features the lively Bordeaux Music Festival and an international firework festival and son-et-lumière show. Those wanting to burn off the extra calories can take part in the 30th Médoc Marathon (www.marathondumedoc.com) in September. Join 8,500 runners in inventive, often outlandish, fancy dress on a circuit through the vineyards around over 50 châteaux. If you prefer gain without pain, sample wine, cheese, and other regional products from local producers’ stalls along the route. Further Information Bordeaux Tourist Office www.bordeaux-tourisme.com

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New Caledonia

Paradise FOUND

THE CLOSEST FRENCH DESTINATION TO AUSTRALIA, NEW CALEDONIA COMBINES TROPICAL BLISS WITH A FRENCH TWIST, AND ENOUGH FLAVOURS, SIGHTS AND SOUNDS TO REWARD TRAVELLERS ON ANY NUMBER OF VISITS.

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ust two and a half hours’ flight across a deep blue Pacific Ocean, New Caledonia offers a barrage of experiences across its small expanse: dazzling coral reefs, lush rainforests and waterfalls, rugged outback terrain, and a vibrant mix of cultures. It was in 1774 that British explorer Captain James Cook discovered the main island, now known as Grand Terre, naming it after his father’s native Scotland. He never went on to claim it and so the French snapped up the country as their own in 1853, as a penal colony. Today it is a thriving, tricolour-waving,

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Opposite: Kanak totems on the Isle of Pines, New Caledonia, near a monument commemorating the arrival of reverends Goujon and Chatelut in 1848 (photo © NCTPS).

Brie-eating French dependency, and it is this that gives the country its charm. Everywhere, Melanesian tradition blends with French sophistication: casual meets chic, laid-back island living meets French savoir-faire, and tropical seafood and fruits combine splendidly with European flavours and chilled wines. Noumea, capital of the emerald archipelago, brims with dining and shopping options, from Chinatown’s colourful shops to the elegant and air-conditioned boutiques on Rue de Sébastopol, selling French designer labels. Further afield, visitors can experience nature, adventure and natural beauty at every turn, starting with the rolling plains of la brousse (the bush) and lush river valleys of Grande Terre, where steep mountains are coursed by tumbling waterfalls, cool rainforests, wild coastlines and the world’s largest coral lagoon. The Isle of Pines and other outlying islands are fringed with white sandy beaches and marine life-filled lagoons. Here, a cacophony of sights awaits discovery – canyons and caves, exquisite corals, the tiniest of tropical fish, turtles, sea snakes and sharks. The ocean reflects every shade of blue imaginable.

This page, top: the naturally formed Heart of Voh in the northern province in New Caledonia (photos this page © Stéphane Ducandas). Above: exploring by bike in the Loyalty Islands, which are made up of four islands.

NEW IN 2014 National airline Aircalin is launching twiceweekly direct flights from Melbourne to Noumea this June, increasing to three times a week in October. New accommodations include the recently opened Hilton hotel and the Sheraton Deva Resort and Spa, which is set to open later in 2014 in Bourail.

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EVENTS IN 2014 • New Caledonia Great Lagoon Regatta (7 – 9 June) – Fourth annual staging of an increasingly popular international yacht regatta. www.greatlagoonregatta.nc • French Cheese Festival (June) – Annual festival held by Le Meridien Noumea. www.lemeridien.nc • New Caledonia International Marathon (24 August) – Popular international event taking place along the foreshores of Noumea’s lagoon. www.marathonnouvellecaledonie.com • Noumea Dream PWA Cup (18 – 23 November) – World-renowned windsurfers will converge on Noumea for this hosting of the Professional Windsurfers Association cup. www.ang.nc

Right and opposite: New Caledonia is known for its delicious cuisine; fresh seafood is in abundance, along with French wine and delicately crafted gourmet desserts (photos © NCTPS).

THE FRENCH CONNECTION Noumea is a haute cuisine hub with over 150 restaurants catering to all tastes and budgets. The town’s innovative chefs combine traditional French-style luxury with the freshness of local Melanesian fare, creating a fusion of flavours and a cuisine unlike any other. Seafood is understandably a highlight, with most restaurant menus carrying freshly caught prawns, lobsters, oysters, marlin, mackerel and crab; the local mussels make for delectable bowls of moules marinières. The market at Port Moselle in Noumea is one of the best places to buy fresh seafood, caught only a few hours earlier by local fishermen. A native ingredient of New Caledonia is the yam, of which there are over 100 varieties grown around the country, best savoured in a stew with coconut milk, chicken, Pignon bananas, onions and tomatoes. Every year in mid-March, a Yam Festival is held to mark the beginning of the yam harvest – the most important event in the Kanak calendar. 100

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RESTAURANTS TO RELISH Dining choices abound in Noumea. A longtime local favourite is Au p’tit Café (www.auptitcafe.nc), where the menu changes regularly and the high standard of traditional French cuisine is consistent. For top-notch waterfront dining, there are several options. Restaurant Le 1881 (www.facebook.com/pages/Le-1881) is located beachside on the grounds of the former penal settlement, dating back to the late 19th century. It’s one of Noumea’s most exciting restaurants, with a

Sydney-trained mixologist behind the bar and a former Michelin-starred chef in the kitchen. Or there’s Le Roof (www.cuenet.nc/le-roof.html), positioned on a jetty that juts out into the water at Anse Vata beach, it offers fine dining cuisine as well as casual French dishes and wines. Noumea’s Latin Quarter has several interesting dining options, including the seafoodintensive L’Astrolabe on the Baie des Citrons seafront, the exciting La Chaumière, and the bistro-style Chez Toto. Their contact details and various up-to-date reviews can be found on various sites around the internet.

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GOURMET GRAZING Sit-down dining aside, there are multiple options for enjoying New Caledonia’s wild mix of flavours. Like to buy some tasty treats for a sunset picnic on the beach? Head to Super U MichelAnge supermarket, where you’ll find a wonderful selection of cheeses, meats and fresh baguettes. Similarly, Comtesse du Barry (www. comtessedubarry.com) stocks a range of pâtes, terrines, foie gras, prepared duck cassoulets and desserts. The local Carrefour sells a vast selection of French wines and champagnes, along with other Francophile flavours. For something sweet, try Chocolats Morand (www.chocolatsmorand.nc) in the Latin Quarter, where you’ll find handmade chocolates created by Patrick Morand, a French and Swiss-trained chocolatier. Or duck behind the Le Surf hotel at the end of Anse Vata to Le Rocher crêperie and sample a range of Brittany-style sweet and savoury crepes à la the owner’s birthplace. Don’t miss the chance to see local foods up close and in the raw at the Port Moselle Markets, open Tuesday to Sunday, where Kanak women sell fresh papaya, pineapple and passion fruit, while locally based French serve up buttery croissants and steaming coffee. Everywhere, inspect every variety of freshly caught seafood.

TRAVELLER HIGHLIGHTS With its stunning Renzo Piano-designed architecture and lush woodland setting, the Tjibaou Cultural Centre celebrates the vernacular Kanak culture with its displays of ethnic Kanak sculpture, paintings and photographs, and exhibits representing other cultures from around the Pacific. Aquarium des Lagons (www.aquarium. nc.en) houses a large collection of sea life native to New Caledonia, and conducts research projects that help to conserve biodiversity and marine populations. Duck Island (Ilot Canards) is ideal for snorkelling and can be easily accessed by taxi boat from Noumea’s Anse Vata beach for an easy and rewarding day trip. On the island, a myriad of marine life and coral awaits visitors. Amedee Island (www.amedeeisland.com), just minutes from Noumea by boat, is a natural marine reserve where visitors can experience the coral with a ride on a glass-bottomed boat.

Further Information New Caledonia Tourism www.visitnewcaledonia.com www.facebook.com/newcaledoniatourism

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Tahiti

Eat, Play LOVE

EXOTIC FLAVOURS FROM TAHITI’S SURF AND TURF ENVIRONS MARRY WITH FRENCH AND ASIAN CULINARY INFLUENCES, SHAPING A DELECTABLE CUISINE THAT’S AS STUNNING AS THE ISLANDS THEMSELVES.

far-flung idyll in the cobalt-blue centre of the Pacific Ocean, Tahiti enjoys a legendary status as the queen of tropical destinations. Its languid pace and ripe fruits are a Gauguin painting come to life. Its coconut palmfringed reefs and aquamarine waters are the stuff of a Robert Louis Stevenson shipwreck novel. Its spice-scented forests and Polynesian art de vivre recall scenes from any number of films. Tahiti’s remoteness reinforces its legend – this is a hideaway for celebrities and the international jet-set, not a backyard for the world’s suburbia. Each of the five archipelagos within this chain of 118 French Polynesian islands has a character all of its own – the remote Marquesas islands, with their untouched culture of song, dance and handicraft; the secluded Tuamoto and Gambier islands, with their marine life-rich waters and pearl farms. Volcanic in origin, these ancient islands are part of the Pacific Shelf, moving northwest at a rate of around 10 centimetres per year. The two volcanic massifs of Tahiti Island, in the Society Islands, are clear products of more recent volcanic activity. Soaring rocky shards clad in green, Mount Orohena and Mount Mairenui rise an imposing 2,241 metres and 1,300 metres above the azure lagoons below.

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This page: terrace dining at Lagoon by Jean Georges at St Regis Bora Bora; Tahiti’s famous poisson cru (photo © Tim McKenna).

DINING DELIGHTS

FLIGHTS OF FANCY Tahiti’s international carrier, Air Tahiti Nui, operates three weekly flights to and from Brisbane, Sydney, Melbourne and Auckland. As might be expected, the airline serves an excellent range of French wines and champagne inflight.

Apart from shaping Tahiti’s magnificent seascapes, Tahiti’s volcanic origins and steamy sunshine create the perfect growing conditions for exotic fruits, spices and vegetables. Flavours particular to Tahiti include the uru (coconut), 300 varieties of banana, including the coralhued fe’i (plantain banana), and breadfruit – considered so appealing in 1787 that Captain William Bligh travelled here to obtain the plant for propagation in the West Indies. Papayas, pineapples, mangoes, watermelon and grapefruit also thrive here and form the basis of countless desserts, especially when fused with sweet Tahitian limes and vanilla. Tahitian cuisine marries these land ingredients with a bounty of seafood, including perch, mahi mahi, parrotfish and coconut crab. The latter is a prized delicacy with a subtly coconutty aroma, thanks to its fondness for the tree fruit of the same name, which it can crack with its powerful pincers. The crab’s liver is practically suffused in coconut oil, creating a texture and flavour often likened to tropical foie gras. Tropical cuisine is among the top trend predictions for food journalists in 2014, so it’s worth sampling Tahiti’s other incredible dishes. Poisson cru is a sashimi-like dish infused with coconut milk and ripe Tahiti tomatoes and cucumbers – sensational, whether served at a local snack joint or at a five-star restaurant. Fafa, chicken cooked in Tahitian spinach and coconut milk, is also richly memorable.

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TAHITI, MOOREA, BORA BORA...

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Clockwise from right: at a vanilla plantation (photo © Tim McKenna); vineyard on Rangiroa; Tahitian watermelon (photo © G le Bacon); sea turtles (photo © Jordi Chias).

Tahiti was first populated some 4,000 years ago by intrepid sailors from Asia, who navigated their way here using an archaic understanding of the stars, winds and currents. But in more recent times, a steady stream of émigrés from around the world has introduced more dishes to the local culinary mix. Crepes, pizza, Chinese and patisserie are just some of the fare on offer at Tahiti’s cafés, bistros and other casual eateries. Experience Tahiti’s casual dining at Bora Bora’s Bloody Mary (bloodymarys.com), a cavernous restaurant and bar with an unmistakably Polynesian theme, the freshest of fish on the menu, and the occasional celebrity spotting. Not surprisingly, French influences abound on menus across the archipelago. At Lagoon, Jean Georges’ restaurant at St Regis Bora Bora (www.stregisborabora.com/lagoon), delectable

local ingredients pair with Eurasian influences for a lightly exotic effect – Papio (giant trevally) fillet encrusted with nuts and spices, for example, or roasted Paru with ginger rice. Villa Mahana (www.villamahana.com) on Bora Bora serves classic French cuisine and accompanying wines in a colonial-style residence. Over at Le Cocos (www.lecocostahiti. com) on Tahiti, diners can experience elegant French dining on the seafront. Tahiti even has its own vineyard, which is hemmed on all sides by coconut trees, in case you forget momentarily where you are. Vin de Tahiti (www.vindetahiti.com) is made on Rangiroa in the Tuamotu islands, and is available in three delicate white grape varieties plus one rosé.

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UNIQUE EXPERIENCES Whether you’re in Tahiti for a wedding, honeymoon, conference or the pursuit of pure pleasure, the islands offer a myriad of experiences across its many and varied isles. Some highlights: • Diving and snorkeling – experience Tahiti’s dramatic views below the waterline, with tours and fun dives that let you see, photograph and film giant manta rays, flitting dolphins and more up close • Island hopping – to truly appreciate the way Tahiti’s reefs and lagoons protect the many islands and motus (sand islets on the edge of coral reefs), or the deep indigo hues of the Pacific and its abundant sea life, board a sailing boat, motor yacht or ferry and flit from one island to the next • Sway to the rhythm – lose yourself in the traditional songs, dances and music of Tahiti and book a seat at a dance recital; particularly in the Marquesas, Gambier and Tuamotu islands • Bejewelled and beautiful – shop for Tahiti’s world-renowned black pearls, which hail from the Tuamoto and Gambier islands, and are available at jewelers across the nation • Eco aware – contact the tourism office about opportunities to work with conservationists, raising awareness around protecting Tahiti’s many sea turtles, whales, rays and other marine life.

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Further Information Tahiti Tourisme tahitinow.com.au

Top: the peaks of Ua Pou in the Marquesas islands (photo © Philippe Bacchet). Above: a couple explores Moorea’s lagoon (photo © G le Bacon).

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Idyll

Reflections in a TURQUOISE sea

From top: aerial of Tetiaroa Atoll; view of The Brando’s beachfront bungalows (both photos © TMK TFS); outlook through the front door (photo © Tim McKenna).

TAHITI’S NEWEST FAR-FLUNG RESORT, THE BRANDO, SETS NEW STANDARDS IN ECO-CHIC EXCLUSIVITY.

et to open in July in exquisite Teti’aroa Atoll is The Brando, the visionary and long-awaited ecoresort created by longtime Tahiti resident, Marlon Brando. The resort is a short but spectacular 20-minute flight from Tahiti’s Faa’a International Airport, where guests are greeted by 35 exclusive villas, nestled among palm trees along white-sand beaches frequented by sea turtles and exotic birds. The atoll’s 12 intimate motus (islets) are encircled by a breathtaking five-kilometre lagoon, where you can snorkel alongside rays, sea turtles and brilliantly colourful fish, or explore by kayak, outrigger canoe or paddleboard – all of which are included in the tariff. Away from the water, cycle through palm groves, sprawl on oversized chairs in the Cultural Lounge or learn about local marine life from the on-site marine biologists. Take relaxation to another level again with daily indulgences at the Varua Polynesian Spa (also included in the cost), offering steam baths, a yoga shelter and Tahitian beauty treatments. Apart from the aforementioned water activities and spa treats, the tariff also includes accommodation in a magnificent waterfront villa, 24-hour access to fine dining, a bicycle for each guest and much more. Needless to say, the villas are sensational, bringing together natural materials evoking the idyllic qualities of Polynesia along with deluxe conveniences such as a private plunge pool and media room. To keep in line with the resort’s eco ethos, renewable energy sources such as solar power and biofuel are used where possible. The Brando is aiming for eventual carbon neutrality through initiatives such as open seawater air-conditioning, an organic garden and wastewater management.

THE BRANDO Teti’aroa Private Island www.thebrando.com

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Books

What we’re READING SOMETHING FOR THE FOODIE, THE ROMANTIC, AND LES ENFANTS.

A cook’s tour of France, Gabriel Gaté (Hardie Grant Books, RRP $34.95) A collection of recipes presented on Taste Le Tour, the television show hosted by French-born Aussie chef Gabriel Gaté. Inspired by the regions – and flavours – traversed each year by the Tour de France cyclists, the recipes are easy, delicious and varied.

French food safari, Maeve O’Meara with Guillaume Brahimi (Hardie Grant Books, RRP $55) The third instalment in food journalist Maeve O’Meara’s Food Safari series, this delicious tome presents 250-plus pages of foolproof French recipes. O’Meara pairs up with chef Guillaume Brahimi to glean wisdom and recipes from top chefs including Alain Ducasse and Sydney’s Chiu Lee Luk.

My big, fat magical cat goes to France, Jim Shanahan (Perry Brown Publishing, RRP $7.88) A cheeky magical cat, a cluey eight-year-old and a tail-swishing ride through major French destinations: the first release in a new children’s ebook series brings much light-heartedness to the genre of travel book. Available on Amazon, with more country titles due out this year.

Food for friends, by Guillaume Brahimi (Penguin Group, RRP $79.95) This cookbook is more than a collection of recipes – it’s also a peek into nine remarkable households. Guillaume creates a different menu for each, from paella party to relaxed brunch, at Matthew Csidei’s ‘Art House’, Heidi Middleton’s ‘Fashion House’ and his own home, among others.

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The art of French baking, recipes by Ginette Mathiot (Adapted by Phaidon Press and Clotilde Dusoulier, RRP $49.95) The definitive guide to baking French desserts, with over 350 creations featured. The book is divided according to dessert category, starting with small cakes before moving onto gâteaux, tarts, pastries and more. Several recipes are provided by renowned pâtissiers from around the world.

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Scent-wise

Jasmine AWARDS WHAT: PRESENTATION OF THE 2014 JASMINE AWARDS, FOR OUTSTANDING JOURNALISM ON FRAGRANCES. Clockwise from top: Paula Joye with Mette Engell; breakfast and blooms at the event; Geraldine Dielenberg and Patrick Benhamou.

eld on April 30, this glamorous breakfast event awarded print and online writers in six categories, with Sarah Brooks-Wilson (Instyle magazine), Aimee Leabon (Marie Claire), Kristina Ioannou (dropdeadgorgeousdaily. com.au) and Ainslie Walker (fragrance blogger) all among the recipients. Where: Star Room, Sydney IMAX Theatre. Who: Stars of Australia’s beauty media, including Paula Joye, former editor of Cleo, Shop Til You Drop and madison, as well as industry leaders Mette Engell, General Manager of Parfums Christian Dior, and Geraldine Dielenberg, Managing Director of luxury distributor YTD. Highlights: As the rain tumbled outside, Australia’s top beauty editors mingled in a room brilliant in magenta phaenopsis orchids. MC Paula Joye mused on how the awards have changed. The top category winners no longer receive a pen and trophy but a luxury trip to France, which this year includes a villa stay at the Terre Blanche Hotel Spa Golf Resort, provided by Atout France.

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Teatime

La Maison Du THE WHAT: LAUNCH OF LA MAISON DU THÉ, A PREMIUM HANDCRAFTED TEA DEVELOPED BY VITTORIA FOOD & BEVERAGE WITH FRENCH MASTER BLENDERS, EXCLUSIVELY FOR THE AUSTRALIAN MARKET. SPONSORED BY ATOUT FRANCE AND AIR FRANCE, THE EVENT DREW 150 GUESTS TO THE PRESTIGE HARBOURSIDE LUNCHEON TO ENJOY GUILLAUME BRAHIMI’S SIGNATURE CUISINE, BLENDING RUSTICISM WITH SOPHISTICATION AND SEASONALITY. Where: Guillaume at Bennelong, Sydney Opera House Who: Les Schirato of Vittoria Coffee and ambassador for Saint-Tropez, Rolando Schirato of Vittoria Food & Beverage, Lisa Hudson of Fairfax, and more

Top: brilliant blooms complement the bright clarity of the LMDT blends. Right: Tom Reeves and Patrick Benhamou with models from the Air France vintage fashion parade.

Left: Wolfie Pizem. Right: Lisa Hudson and Roland Schirato.

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Highlights: Guests were treated to a sizzling swimwear fashion show by luxury brand Eres, and a parade of rare vintage Air France uniforms, designed by the likes of Christian Lacroix and Nina Ricci. Needless to say, they were also treated to goodie bags containing samples of LMDT â&#x20AC;&#x201C; as the brand is affectionately dubbed â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and many opted to drink tea after lunch, in place of the usual coffee, served in Christofle porcelain and silverware.

Clockwise from top: Carline Bouilhet-Christofle and Erkin Aytekin; Les Schirato and Agnes Espagne; Guillaume Brahimi; a creation from the Eres collection. Right: Alice Harrington and Sophie Almin with a model from the Air France parade of vintage uniforms.

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Maeve O’Meara

Things I LOVE ABOUT FRANCE

MAEVE O’MEARA IS ONE OF AUSTRALIA’S BEST-KNOWN FOOD JOURNALISTS, WITH SEVERAL TV ROLES AND BESTSELLING BOOKS TO HER NAME. SHE IS DIRECTOR OF GOURMET SAFARIS (WWW.GOURMETSAFARIS.COM.AU), WHICH HAS WON A BEST TOUR OPERATOR AWARD FOR ITS GOURMET TOURS OF THE WORLD’S TASTIEST DESTINATIONS. Where do you stay when in France? I’m a big fan of rental apartments – they’re such a great way to stay in interesting neighbourhoods.

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Do you have many personal memories of France? I remember meeting my two French cousins, Claire and Christine, and my aunt Marie Claire for pink champagne at one of the cafés in the Place des Vosges. Just exquisite.

What are your favourite Paris sights? The Left Bank, Notre Dame and the Pont l’Archevêché bridge, with all the locks to commemorate true love.

What’s the best place in Paris for seasonal ingredients? The enormous Rungis Market. It’s as big as a suburb, and turns over $7 billion a year.

Your favourite specialty food store in Paris? Laurent Dubois’ cheese shop on boulevard SaintGermain. I now have a lifetime addiction to their Comté.

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Your favourite produce market outside Paris? The Les Halles market in Lyon. I love seeing teenagers here after a late night, savouring some of the great bread, cheeses, charcuterie – in France, even the recovery food is high-end.

What’s your greatest foodie experience in France? Right as we were filming Guy Savoy’s iconic oysters and champagne, the news came through that the French way of eating was declared an intangible world heritage treasure.

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8. Best-ever meal in France? A dinner cooked by chef and author, Stéphane Renaud, in his home in the Ardeche. He cooked regional specialties including homemade sausage, and wowed us with his pot au feu.

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What French dishes do you enjoy cooking in Australia? In winter, I love to cook Guillaume Brahimi’s beef bourguignon.

What insights did you gain from filming French Food Safaris? I really discovered butter and its magic; how a whisk is such a simple and creative implement in the kitchen; and the wisdom of investing in good ingredients – mustard, vinegar, oil and salt.

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