Rendez vous en France No.4 2015 Driveaway by Rendezvous

LE MAGAZINE

VI VE LA FRAN CE N0 4 2 015

Culture Roar of LYON

Gourmet

EAST side story

!n FRANCE mode

1328-9225

LIFESTYLE

I GOURMET

I ACCOMMODATION

I DESTINATION I PORTRAIT

www.dior.com

photography by Warren & nick

perrier-jouĂŤt, the alluring champagne Since its foundation in 1811, the champagne house perrier-jouĂŤt has crafted elegant, floral wines of rare finesse with a chardonnay hallmark. the elegance of the cuvees echoes that of the art nouveau anemones adorning the Belle epoque bottle and offers moments of pure delight and beauty. www.perrier-jouet.com

please drink responsibly

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Bonjour! WHY IS FRANCE THE WORLD’S FASHION CAPITAL? Atout France Sydney team.

PERHAPS IT’S THE

COUNTRY’S NEAR-30

ustralian travellers to France seek

PER CENT STAKE IN

out all things fashionable and beautiful, which is why we have

THE LUXURY GOODS

dedicated this issue to the many different ‘modes’ that France has

SCENE, OR THE FACT

created.

THIS SECTOR IS

Fashion is just one interpretation of this theme.

It also refers to France’s many other chic attractions,

SEVERAL HUNDRED

including food, wine, culture, accommodation, shopping, festivals and architecture.

YEARS OLD AND AS

In this issue, we take a peek inside Paris’ Fondation Louis Vuitton, with its collection of the

RELEVANT AS EVER.

past century’s best contemporary art; Lyon’s Musées des Confluences, dedicated to the natural sciences; compelling events like Good France, inspired by Auguste Escoffier’s hosting of multiple epicurean feasts in multiple locations; and beautiful things to buy, whether it’s classic berets or Parisian fashions. Read about France’s most celebrated destinations, from Normandy with its iconic Mont Saint-Michel and D-Day landing sites, to the cult food and wine districts of Bordeaux and Burgundy, and the most alluring towns of the Mediterranean. As before, we feature French destinations with a tropical twist – Tahiti and New Caledonia. We hope your next trip to France is packed with moments in mode.

Patrick Benhamou Director Atout France France Tourism Development Agency, Australia and New Zealand patrick.benhamou@atout-france.fr TONS RECOMMANDÉS (3)

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S T O R Y

18 Aquitaine Sunny temperament

50 Terre Blanche The good life

80 Lyon Roar of Lyon

24 Bordeaux Structure and style

53 Le Meurice Suite sensation

90 Provence L’Occitane

26 Languedoc-Roussillon Land of a thousand terroirs

59 George V Jewel in the crown

28 Montpellier South Star |

G O U R M E T

| H E R I TAG E & H I S TO R Y |

61 Paris Region Town and country

37 Grand Est East side story 44 Beaune Beguiling in Burgundy 46 Dijon Feasts and Fancies

82 Shopping Paris match

D E S T I N AT I O N

93 Monaco Never say never again 98 Nice Southern sensation 101 Antibes All that jazz

67 Outdoor Travel All aboard

102 New Caledonia Island life

68 Normandy Impressions of awe

106 Tahiti Fifty shades of blue

RENDEZ-VOUS EN FRANCE 2015 DIRECTOR OF PUBLICATIONS Christian Mantei

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY © ROM /Jerome Salado/Shutterstock

EDITOR Stephanie Oley

ATOUT FRANCE AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND France Tourism Development Agency Editorial, Production and Sales Team Patrick Benhamou, Sophie Almin, Charline Joly, Flore Rousseau, Camille Hugues-Brunet, Thomas Lefebvre, Antoine Barbe, Claire Kaletka-Neil and Charly Bongiorno.

ART DIRECTOR Yolanda Koning SUBEDITING & PROOFREADING Paula Towers CONTRIBUTORS Ruby Boukabou, Danielle Bricker, Vanessa Couchman, Sally Hammond, Susan Gough Henley, Sophie Ibbotson, Ella Lombardi, Justine Knight, Ian Renwick, Persephone Nicholas PUBLISHER Peter Berman

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Divine food the way. The French go to great lengths to create an exceptional eating experience. Aujourd’hui, you’ll find your entrée is served with no fat and oils thanks to Tefal’s unique Titanium Non-Stick Coating. Followed by a main course cooked to perfection with the patented Thermo-Spot heat indicator that tells the perfect temperature to start cooking. And no matter how sticky the dessert, it will be a breeze to clean up your Tefal pan. Turn your kitchen into a well-known “hot spot” with a little “je ne sais quoi”.

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Bordeaux – SUNNY Aquitaine temperament

WINTER ESCAPE OR UNFORGETTABLE EUROPEAN GETAWAY? SUNNY AQUITAINE AND ITS CAPITAL, BORDEAUX, IN THE SOUTHWEST OF FRANCE, APPEALS YEAR-ROUND WITH ITS CULTURAL RICHES, WORLD-FAMOUS WINES AND EXQUISITE DINING CHOICES. BY DANIELLE BRICKER

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ust over three hours by train from Paris, you can explore nearly all of history through the lens of Aquitaine’s rich cultural heritage, from the prehistoric caves at Lascaux to a variety of medieval pilgrimage sites to its vintage 1920s beach resorts. Today, Aquitaine boasts a long coastline, easy access to the Pyrénées mountain range, and the Bordeaux wine region, making it an ideal destination for beach dwellers, outdoorsy types, and foodies alike.

A WINE ODYSSEY

Clockwise from opposite: Oysters al fresco at the Bay of Arcachon (photo © Crédit Vincent Bengold); vineyards at the iconic Château Lafite (photo © CRTA); taking on the swells of Biarritz, surfing capital of Europe (photo © B. Bloch/CRTA).

Burgeoning wine regions and off-thebeaten path varietals may be uber-trendy among oenophiles right now, but there’s a reason Bordeaux is the wine capital of the world. Bordeaux’s iconic red blends of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec, and Petit Verdot have placed it on the wine map since the 12th century. If first growth estates like Château Latour and Château Lafite-Rothschild are out of your budget, get an introduction to the local palate at La Winery in Médoc. La Winery boasts a new approach to wine through its Signe Oenologique, a sort of wine personality test where visitors participate in an hour-long tasting and record their impressions to receive personalised wine recommendations. Their wine shop carries 1,700 wines from around the world to fit any budget, while the wine bar offers gourmet snacks and tastings. MAGAZINE

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and vineyard architect Luc-Arsène Henry. Itching to work off those calories? Discover the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Saint-Émilion by bike on a two-hour cycling tour of the Bordeaux town’s world-class vineyards. Tours leave daily from the tourist office and feature a stop at a local wine estate, with a complete property tour and tasting.

STAYING IN STYLE

Clockwise from top left: Mastering the art of wine blending with B-Winemaker (photo © B-Winemaker/CRTA); lush vines in Saint-Emilion (photo © Vincent Bengold); guest suite at Château la Mothe du Barry, La cuve à mon loup, inspired by a winery fermenting room (photo © Lionel Liset).

If you’re travelling next year and plan to learn about the basics of viticulture, make sure to bookmark the Cité des Civilisations du Vin, a wine focused museum-cum-theme park due to open in 2016. (See related story on Bordeaux for details.) Until then, you can head east along the Dordogne River to La Maison des Vins de Bergerac. During the summer months, rub elbows with winemakers from the 140 local estates, and in the off-season, expand your palate with La Maison’s four-session wine school, beginning on 18 March. Once you have a grasp of your likes and dislikes, be among the first to score a tasting in the new state-of-the-art cellar at Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion, the result of a collaboration between prolific designer Philippe Starck

Driving through the châteaux-studded countryside is dreamy enough to make the most jaded visitor want to put up their feet somewhere for a night (or three). Aquitaine has about any style of accommodation you could desire. Ultra-modern chambers in a classic estate? Head straight to Chateau La Mothe du Barry (www.vignoblesjoelduffau.fr) in EntreDeux-Mers, where Joël and Sandrine Duffau offer just three exclusive designer rooms, all redolent of modern winemaking technology with their steel and concrete finishes. Dramatic colour schemes and plush furnishings make each suite most conducive to romance, hence their dramatic names – one is named the French Kiss. The surrounding area is rich in vineyards and architectural heritage, including Romanera churches, country houses with medieval foundations and windmills hundreds of years old. It’s just a stone’s throw from SaintEmilion and its famous vineyards, just outside Bordeaux. MAGAZINE

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Clockwise from top left: Bordeaux’s so-called miroir d’eau (photo © Norman Lewis); a round of golf at Château des Vigiers in the Dordogne (photo © Julie Rey/Château des Vigiers); Lascaux (photo © JeanJacques Brochard/ CRTA).

Heading inland to Aquitaine’s mountainous south, you’ll find the tres unusual Nests of Béarn (www.lesnidsdubearn.com) in Loubieng: futuristic ball-shaped pods that literally ensure a night in the stars. Not far from the vineyards of Jurançon, and set within a forested estate of oak and pine trees, these giant balls are hung 2 to 8 metres off the ground. To reach your pod, you must climb via a safety net stretching to the ground. Each nest can accommodate up to two people, and is deliciously comfortable.

INSPIRED ACTIVITIES Take a break from wining and dining to dive into Aquitaine’s cultural heritage. Lascaux’s complex cave system on the region’s eastern-

most edge is a blast from the past with its famous Paleolithic cave paintings. The UNESCO World Heritage Site was discovered in 1940 and has since been dubbed the ‘Sistine Chapel of prehistory’. A new museum is due to open in 2016, but in the meantime, the Musée National de Préhistoire is about a 30-minute drive from the caves themselves. If you’re looking for something more active to do, good times are par for the course at Château des Vigiers’ 27-hole golf course, about a 30-minute drive from Bergerac. You can also catch a little R&R in the club’s spa with a steam in the sauna or one of many beauty treatments. If water sports are your game, head to Biarritz on the coast. The town is a world leader

in bathing water quality for swimmers, and an historic surfing capital of Europe. Learn how to hang ten with the best at Hastea surf school, which offers a variety of lesson packages for beginner and intermediate surfers, ranging from a week-long intensive course to an hour-and-ahalf mini lesson. Avid cyclists might try their hand at the Canal des Deux Mers, which connects the Atlantic Ocean to the Mediterranean Sea, passing through Bordeaux, Toulouse, and Beziers. Further Information Aquitaine Tourist Board www.tourism-aquitaine.com

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Bordeaux –

Structure and STYLE

WITH ITS EXQUISITELY RESTORED NEOCLASSICAL ARCHITECTURE, A VIBRANT PEDESTRIAN-ONLY OLD QUARTER AND BALMY CAFÉ CULTURE, BEAUTIFUL BORDEAUX IS POSITIVELY BLOOMING. BY SUSAN GOUGH HENLY

n case you are at all confused, Bordeaux gives its name to both to the city and the surrounding wine region. And what a wine region it is, with some of the most famous names in the business. Think Margaux, Lafite, Petrus, Yquem and hundreds of other lesser known but equally impressive gems. Bordeaux is the largest and most famous AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) in France, with 8,000 producers, from grand châteaux to family vineyards.

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In the city, wine lovers should head first to the Bordeaux Wine Council, in its ship’s-prowlike triangular limestone building, to enjoy wine workshops and taste dozens of wines by the glass at the classy wine bar. Visit also the fascinating Museum of Wine and the Wine Trade in the Chartrons or wine merchants’ quarter, where you’ll discover three centuries of Bordeaux wine culture. There are food and wine cruises along the Garonne, and the Bordeaux Tourist Office arranges terrific wine touring including chateau visits and harvest workshops.

Fine food, wine and good times are never out of reach in Bordeaux (photo © Deepix/Alan Benoit).

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Of course, what goes better with fine wine than fine dining. Superstar chef Joel Robuchon, whose various restaurants have a combined 28 Michelin stars, has just opened his namesake restaurant at wine magnate Bernard Magrez’s new boutique hotel La Grande Maison. The cellar’s 259 Bordeaux Grands Crus Classés offer the perfect complement to Robuchon’s inspired cuisine. You can also enjoy the region’s innumerable delicacies: oysters from Arcachon, duck from the Landes, lamb from Pauillac, truffles from the Périgord, asparagus from Blaye and canelé pastries from Bordeaux itself. Sample these at a host of fine restaurants including Le Chapon Fin, Le Solena, and La Tupina, not to mention edgy new farm-to-table bistros dotting the city.

MAKE A DATE Bordeaux’s most exciting news is the 2016 opening of la Cité des Civilisations du Vin, an inspired wine-centric experience that combines the thrill of a theme park and the fascination of a really good museum, as visitors go on a voyage of discovery through the history of wine and civilisation. Located in an audacious building inspired by the swirling movement of wine in a glass, the Cité des Civilisations du Vin promises to be the most talked-about opening in the wine world. And just to confirm that Bordeaux is by no means stuffy or stuck in the past, this summer

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Main: Bordeaux’s iconic miroir d’eau, in front of the Place de la Bourse (photo © CRTA/JR Fialeix). Inset: Artist’s impression of the magnificent Cité des Civilisations du Vin (photo © X-TU).

the Bordeaux Museum of Contemporary Art features the work of Chilean/French surrealist filmmaker, playwright, comics creator, musician and avant-garde spiritual guru Alejandro Jodorowsky.

LAP OF LUXURY With the opening of several new boutique hotels, you can now fully immerse yourself in Bordeaux’s stunning neoclassical architecture. The Hotel de Tourny offers 12 contemporary rooms in a beautifully restored 18th century residence that recaptures Bordeaux’s elegance

while the five-star boutique property Yndo Hotel, in yet another converted mansion, features 10 unique rooms and two suites. Each is the work of a different designer from the subtle neutral tones of Damien Langlois Meurinne to the mischievous designs of the Campana brothers. Further Information Bordeaux Tourist Office www.bordeaux-tourisme.com

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TOURISME SUD DE FRANCE Over 1,000 friendly Tourisme Sud de France (en.destinationsuddefrance.com/ Tourisme-Sud-de-France) establishments offer southern-style dishes made from local produce matched with local wines. Look for the Qualité Tourisme certification on a range of hotels, restaurants and other providers, all offering the best service and products.

Sud de France Land of a THOUSAND terroirs

IN FRANCE’S SOUTHERNMOST REGION, 2,000-YEAR-OLD VINES SIT ALONGSIDE ROMAN RUINS, MEDIEVAL CITADELS AND CULINARY RICHES. YET LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON ALSO OFFERS PLENTY OF NEW SURPRISES, AS SALLY HAMMOND WRITES.

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Sunset at the Roman-era aqueduct, Pont du Gard (photo © Yann de Fareins).

One thousand years after Roman-era vines were planted in Languedoc-Roussillon, roaming troubadours made music and enjoyed that wine right here. Today, locals and visitors still do. The region’s history is matched by its diversity. From canal tours to avant-garde galleries; ancient villages to energetic markets; food and wine festivals to modern city architectural ‘arte’, everyone wins. Best of all, the TGV from Paris reaches Montpellier, the capital, in just four hours.

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CERCLE PRESTIGE Craving a gourmet break with variety and relaxation? Cercle Prestige offers a stay in an elegant 17th-century Cistercian abbey with a swimming pool, wine cellar and access to a luxury barge. en.destinationsuddefrance.com/Cercle-Prestige

From top left: Luxury canal barge on the Canal du Midi (photo © l’Espérance); flavours and finesse at Domaine d’Auriac (photo © Domaine d’Auriac); the ancient fortified town of Carcassonne in Aude (photo © Paul Palau).

HISTORY AND FESTIVITY Top billing goes to the six UNESCO World Heritage sites: Carcassonne, Canal du Midi, Vauban fortresses of Villefranche-deConflent and Mont-Louis, the Saint-Jacques-deCompostelle pilgrimage routes, Pont du Gard and the Causses and the Cévennes. There are also golden stone Cathar castles, bastides, leafstrewn canals, abbeys and châteaux. Other visitors are won by the old-new city of Nîmes – Philippe Starck meets ancient Rome, with a good measure of Jean Nouvel. Uzès, dubbed Belle de Pierre (stone beauty), is an art city with 37 classified or listed historical monuments. Absorb culture at the region’s many museums and galleries. These range from contemporary art in wine warehouses and old canning factories, to the brilliantly nostalgic mix of toys and knickknacks showcased at Musée International des Arts Modestes in Sète. Seeking out some calendar highlights? The Carcassonne Festival is the high point of summer, with almost 100 concerts, shows and a Bastille

Day fireworks extravaganza. There’s also jazz in Sète, rock groups and flamenco in Nîmes, Catalan dancing in Perpignan, or the four nights in June when the Pont du Gard is illuminated by a breathtaking son et lumière and pyrotechnics.

DELUXE DINING AND STAYS Since 2010 Domaine Riberach, ex-cathedral of wine in the village Bélesta de la Frontière, has offered luxury accommodation and fine food. Explore the vinification cellars, enjoy the contemporary design rooms in and above the old wine vats, and dine in the Michelin one-star La Coopérative restaurant with views across the Mediterranean garden to surrounding vineyards. Everyone should experience a canal tour. The Midi has 300 kilometres of rivers and canals, and the Canal du Midi slices right through the region’s stunning vineyards and vistas. Péniche Hotel Alégria and Péniche Espérance cruise along the Canal du Midi from Béziers to Carcassonne, replete with on-board pool and wine cellar.

With the variety and excellence of produce in Languedoc-Roussillon, land of a thousand terroirs, chefs such as Philippe Deschamps from Domaine d’Auriac are in cooks’ heaven. Sweet onions and the freshest oysters, pork and chicken make menus sing, and diners sing praises. Wine predominates in this, the world’s largest grape-growing region. Make sure to visit the 17th-century Château de Pennautier in the Aude, to meet members of the 10th generation of the family that built it, and enjoy their magnificent wines. The centuries-old Domaine de Verchant is the region’s first five-star hotel. Dating from before the Gallo-Roman era, it also has everything needed in this century. Simple and elegant, it is high-tech and luxurious. Further Information Languedoc-Roussillon Sud de France en.destinationsuddefrance.com

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Montpellier South STAR

SOUTHERN SUNSHINE, CULTURAL RICHES AND A VIBRANT, YOUTHFUL ATMOSPHERE MAKE MONTPELLIER ONE OF FRANCE’S MOST APPEALING CITIES. BY DANIELLE BRICKER

or Mediterranean style without the high price tags of the French Riviera and Côte d’Azur, consider exploring Montpellier, capital of the Languedoc-Roussillon region. It’s also a young and friendly city that revels in the art of good living. The pedestrian-friendly town centre dates back to the Middle Ages, keeping the city deeply rooted in its far-reaching history, while nearby modern architecture proves that France’s eighth largest city has a keen eye turned to the 21st century. Clockwise from top: Visitors outside Montpellier’s Jean Nouvel-designed city hall (photo © KFH-Beatriz Azorin); traditional violin-making (photo © AIMM); vineyards near Pic de Saint-Loup, practically an emblem of Montpellier (photo © G Delerue).

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WAXING LYRICAL

AN EVER-EVOLVING CITYSCAPE

Montpellier’s greatest traditions lie in the arts, especially classical music. With ten violin makers’ shops in the city center – one for roughly every 25,000 residents – the town boasts an extraordinarily high density of musical craftsmanship. The tourist office has a guided tour of these artisanal outposts starting at 10 euros. Among the highlights is the shop of Nicolas Gilles, where the master luthier crafts violins, violas and cellos from carefully selected Italian spruce and Bosnian flamed maple. Gilles’ works, inspired by the 18th-century Italian masters, recently won a silver medal at the 2012 Violin Society of America competition. Visitors may also seek out the workshop and rehearsal room of Yann Poulain, just a few streets away. Looking for other arts and crafts? There are 17 easy-to-walk-to artisan workshops in the city’s charming centre, including jewelers, furriers, potters, glassblowers, enamellers, leather workers and more, making unique and authentically French souvenirs easy to come by.

For a more contemporary experience, new architecture projects abound throughout the city. Everything from government buildings to public transportation has an edgy, modern spin, a testimony to Montpellier’s energy. The tourist office’s free ‘Contemporary Montpellier’ app features an audio guide that leads travellers to 24 hotspots around the city. The angular aluminum and glass City Hall is a major focal point. Prolific Parisian architect Jean Nouvel collaborated with locally based François Fontès over four years of construction, until the building was inaugurated in 2011. The rapidly developing Port Marianne district, which houses City Hall, will ultimately include a threehectare public park with bike and pedestrian paths along the Lez River, as well as a public plaza for markets, cafés and a large hotel. Health nuts and architecture nerds alike can get their kicks in Le Nuage, a five-storey sports and wellness club designed by Philippe Starck to evoke the ethereal nature of clouds. France’s first inflatable building alternates rough structured framing with a transparent membrane of ultra-

The bustling Place de la Comédie (photo © Ville de Montpellier).

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thin screen-printed plastic, forming bubbles that can then be inflated with hot air. Suspended in the structure are four villages, which include a restaurant and bar, a barber and beauty salon, a pool, a sauna, a spa and a collaborative team of health experts ranging from doctors to dietitians. Even the tram décor defies convention with cars decorated by fashion designer Christian Lacroix. For less than 2 euros, you can ride in style behind colourful kaleidoscopic illustrations depicting marine life, Montpellier monuments and more. Far from forgetting its cultural heritage, Montpellier also offers countless traditional attractions, including: The Place de la Comédie, an 18th-century opera house; the Musée Fabre, a renowned collection of European art; and a variety of lavish private mansions from the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries. A smattering of outdoor plazas, packed cafés and intimate shopping precincts round out the offering, making Montpellier a unique blend of attractions indeed. Further Information Montpellier Tourist Office www.montpellier-france.com

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No experience necessary, no license required TAHITI Take the helm of your own self drive cruiser and discover the delights and sights of France by cruising regions MOOREA such as Burgundy, Languedoc and Charente. Savour gourmet BORA BORA cuisine and sample fine wines in the historical and quaint OTHER ISLANDS marketing towns and villages that surround the canals. A Le Boat holiday will leave you with memories to CRUISING SAILING cherish forever. WEDDINGS

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Le Festival Brissy

Mont Saint-Michel appears to float gracefully in the water, with its new bridge allowing the tides to flow freely again.

Normandy

Festival

Normandy’s iconic Mont SaintMichel, a medieval-era commune built on a tiny rocky outcrop 1 kilometre offshore, will shake off centuries of wear when it concludes a decade-long restoration project in 2015. The islet had been linked to the mainland for over 100 years by a concrete causeway, which inadvertently caused numerous environmental problems. A new bridge on piers will now replace the causeway, allowing for the tides to flow freely once again. Day trips from Paris can take you to the breathtaking site. Better yet, spend a few days in Normandy and soak up its Impressionist art scene, D-Day heritage sites and more. www.discovermontsaintmichel.com

Adding to the choice of culinary events that prove France’s cuisine truly deserves its UNESCO heritage listing, along comes Fête de la Gastronomie. Now in its third year, the three-day foodie fest is on again this 25 – 27 September, showcasing dozens of gastronomic delights. Highlights include a Creole cooking demonstration and full-course menu in Paris, a slowfood degustation session in Normandy, and farmers’ markets across

A marvellous voyage

La Grande Bouffe

the country. The event’s extensive website allows you to find something in every corner of France on those dates, choosing from 2,000plus locations across France. www. economie.gouv.fr/fete-gastronomie

At Rendez-vous en France, we’re always chuffed to hear of French culture embedding itself in the local scene. So we’re pleased to introduce the Brisbane French Festival, coming up on 11 – 12 July, bringing truckloads of joie de vivre to South Bank. Think French-themed products such as macarons and niche cosmetics; foods such as omelettes, crepes and cheese platters; an entire wine pavilion; and entertainments including a fashion parade, ferris wheel and cooking demos. Stage performances range from jazz-pop to burlesque, all raging until late at night. brisbanefrenchfestival.com.au

Happy faces at last year’s Brisbane French Festival.

MAGAZINE Arnaud MONTEBOURG Ministre de l’Économie,

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Les Miserables

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Wheels go round Created to evoke a moving restaurant terrace, Bustronome allows guests to take in the romance-drenched sights of Paris while dining à la carte on four- or six-course feasts. Guests can board the meticulously outfitted doubledecker bus at different locations, and there are multiple options for customisation – such as arranging wine tastings or high tea instead of a meal, or hiring the bus for private functions with a personalised itinerary. The menu is updated seasonally. www.bustronome.com

Admiring the sights of Paris from within a comfortable glass-roofed bus (photo © Bustronome).

Unless you’ve been living under a rock, you’ll have seen the distinctive woodblock print illustration for Les Miserables everywhere – fluttering on city flags; imprinted on tickets and papers. You can still catch this heart-rending portrayal of turbulent 19th-century France’s downtrodden poor, which runs at Sydney’s Capitol Theatre until mid-July. The musical adaptation of Victor Hugo’s landmark novel has captivated an estimated 60 million audiences globally through its vivid characterisations, lavish production and a catchy score you’ll hear hummed throughout the city, long after the curtain has dropped. www.lesmis. com.au

Shop

Raspberry beret While the origins of the beret may be lost in the sands of time, that smart little hat has been intrinsic to Gallic style for hundreds of years. Berets never date and it’s only natural that a visitor to France would want to snap one up, so why not buy the best quality there is? Laulhère uses the highest quality felted Merino wool in its creations, and draws on 175 years of manufacturing expertise to create its simple, timeless collection, available in fittingly classic colours for men and women. www.laulhere-france.com

Re-imagined and starring a cast billed as ‘astonishing’, Les Mis runs until July in Sydney (photo © Les Misérables).

Women’s berets from Laulhère, available in a range of hues and styles.

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The men’s collection is staunchly classic.

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This page: The Atout France team at Goût de France in March (photo © Atout France/Alex Brown); dessert at the glamorous Château de la Chèvre d’Or in Eze (photo © CRT Riviera Cote d’Azur).

Feast

For ONE night only MISSED OUT ON GOÛT DE FRANCE (GOOD FRANCE) 2015? LOOK OUT FOR THIS DELUXE FOOD FEST AGAIN NEXT YEAR, AND EXPERIENCE THE CREATIVITY AND CONVIVIALITY OF FRENCH-STYLE DINING AROUND THE GLOBE. BY PERSEPHONE NICHOLAS

ood food and fine wines are a hallmark of France, where it’s said that two new cookbooks are published every day. There’s never a shortage of gastronomic inspiration, and the vogue for foodie events has stretched from France across the globe. The Goût de France (Good France) festival, for example, brings together more than 1,300 chefs across five continents to share contemporary French cuisine on one special night of the year. Australia held its own particularly délicieuse 34

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instalment of the festival on 19 March, with more than 30 restaurants in Brisbane, Canberra, the Gold Coast, Melbourne, Perth and Sydney taking part. Top French (and Francophile) chefs headlined the event, and each participating restaurant simultaneously served a specially created French-style menu. Punters could arguably dine French 365 nights of the year, if they wanted to. But what’s special about Goût de France is the impassioned generosity of chefs in sharing their archived wines and other culinary treasures with guests.

At the Garden Court Restaurant event in Sofitel Sydney Wentworth, for example, 150 guests were treated to rare wines hand-sourced from Bordeaux, Côte du Rhone and Burgundy – impossible to buy without some serious industry contacts. They feasted on five courses of delicately flavoursome seasonal fare – crab with handmade ravioli so fine, one diner mistook it for shaved calamari; a knockout chocolate Opéra dessert conceived by Guillaume Brahimi of Bistro Guillaume in Sydney, Melbourne and Perth.

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A TOAST TO ESCOFFIER Launched in 2014 by legendary chef and restaurateur Alain Ducasse, together with Laurent Fabius, Minister for Foreign Affairs and International Development, Goût de France was inspired by Auguste Escoffier’s Epicurean Dinners, which date back to 1912. These dinners brought together as many diners as possible to enjoy the same menu, on the same day, in several international locations. The good news for those of us who love French-style flavours, but who won’t be in France in March, is that Ducasse is working with an international committee to make Goût de France 2016 the biggest and best yet. Already, it is becoming a highlight of the international culinary calendar. At the recent Sydney event, Brahimi was knighted and received the gold medal of the Chevalier de l’Ordre National du Mérite (Knight of the National Order of Merit) – the highest recognition of achievement in France.

PROVENANCE AND PRIDE Speaking at the event launch, Alain Ducasse said: “French cuisine is first and foremost an entire attitude. Its strength lies in its attention to the products used and the seasons. That is why it is able to adapt to such a range of regions – the resources available vary depending on the place and the season, but the care taken over products and the techniques are the same everywhere... French cuisine respects the planet and cultural diversity. It is a humanist cuisine.”

Clockwise from top left: Groundbreaking chef, Alain Ducasse (photo © Pierre Monetta); display by one of the Goût de France Sydney sponsors, Martell Cognac; Atout France director, Patrick Benhamou, with helpers Arnaud and Maxime and an impressive Tefal tower; Laurent Fabius, Minister for Foreign Affairs and International Development (photo © Getty).

Menus for 2016 are still under wraps, but diners will be offered a traditional aperitif (champagne or iced cognac), followed by a cold starter, hot starter, fish or shellfish, meat or poultry, a French cheese or cheeseboard, a chocolate dessert and French wines and digestifs. Each course will be developed using the best seasonal local produce, and will reflect current tastes for healthier eating with lower levels of fat, sugar, salt and protein. Restaurants taking part in Goût de France range from simpler bistros to fine-dining establishments. All share a passion for high quality, ethical and contemporary French cuisine, with their focus on healthier, sustainable ingredients. Mark your calendar now, and make it a night to remember. Further Information www.goodfrance.com

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SETTING THE STANDARD, YET AGAIN.

OAKED CHARDONNAY

RIESLING CHAMPAGNE WINE GLASS

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Grand Est

East side STORY

MOUNTAINS AND RIVERS; VINEYARDS AND CHÂTEAUX; ART AND ARCHITECTURE – THE NORTHEAST OF FRANCE PACKS IN EVERY EXPERIENCE THE TRAVELLER COULD POSSIBLY WANT. BY IAN RENWICK

ach region of France has its own special charm, and the area of the North East, known as Le Grand Est, is no exception. With its fantastically rich diversity of food, wine, countryside and leisure pursuits, there is sure to be something in Le Grand Est to tickle your fancy. Let us consider the ABCs of the region: Alsace, Burgundy and Champagne. All are intrinsically linked with some of the world’s most prestigious wines, and all offer totally unique experiences. Alsace, with its distinctive half-timbered houses, world-class museums, and GermanFrench cuisine, has historically always been at Europe’s crossroads. Its unique countryside and mountains beckon with active pursuits such as cycling and hiking, while its cities entice with vibrant art, music and Christmas festivities. Burgundy is home to the renowned pinot noir and chardonnay vineyards of Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune (due for UNESCO heritage listing), stunning châteaux and beautiful medieval architecture. They are fittingly princely surrounds for wines this regal. And where would the world be without Champagne, producer of the legendary sparkling wines? The monk Dom Perignon of Hautvillers, often credited as being the first person to create sparkling wine, is just one player in the story of the wine’s rise to an art-form. Visit the cellars of the iconic champagne houses along with those of the smaller champagne producers, to see just how rich this story actually is. All this without mentioning the northeast region’s fascinating cities: Beaune and Dijon, Reims and Épernay, Strasbourg and Mulhouse. None are more than two hours away from Paris by train, so take the time to explore this fascinating region.

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Alsace Grand Cru

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The picture-perfect village of Kaysersberg, one of the stops along the Alsace Wine Route.

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FRANCE’S EASTERNMOST REGION, ALSACE, HAS A DISTINCTLY CONTINENTAL FLAIR – FROM INTERNATIONAL ART FAIRS TO ARTISAN BEERS AND FLAVOURSOME SAUERKRAUT. THERE’S ALSO A HOST OF NEW ATTRACTIONS, AS IAN RENWICK DISCOVERS.

lsace: so small in size, and yet so vast in variety. With an incredible choice of landscapes and history, the reasons to visit just don’t seem to end. Come for the Grand Cru wines or the beautiful architecture, but stay for the wonderful hiking in the Vosges Mountains and the dazzling sauerkraut. Three very different towns await you. First, visit the museum capital of the northeast, Mulhouse: a fascinating blend of industrial heritage and modern design. Make the most of your time and stay in the new Mondrian Hotel, named after the Dutch painter, with his recognisable primary colours imprinted on the façade. Each of the five rooms is unique in 38

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design, and its location right in the heart of town will ensure you get the most out of your time in the city. Or consider the capital of Europe and Alsace: Strasbourg. Rich in heritage, yet young at heart, this city is a fascinating and dynamic place to stroll around. During your amblings, be sure to pop in at the exciting new gallery, La PopArtisterie – not only a place for artists to show their works, but a working, vibrant workshop. They pride themselves on blending art with the more convivial: discuss the work whilst sipping an artisanal beer or a local Riesling. No trip to Alsace would be complete without a visit to Colmar. Spared from the worst of the wars of the 19th and 20th centuries, the old

town is a rich tapestry of historical architecture set along a gentle canal. Eight centuries of Germanic and French architectural and religious landmarks await, including the incredible Isenheim Altarpiece, housed at the Unterlinden Museum. This spectacular museum, set in a 13th century convent, is undergoing a complete transformation and will result in a truly one-ofa-kind blend of the modern and the ancient. Of course, we can’t talk about Alsace without mentioning what truly strikes at the heart of every Alsatian: food and wine. To understand the success of Alsace’s wines is to appreciate the unique geography of the area, trapped as it is between the Vosges Mountains and the Rhine.

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At the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art Strasbourg; gourmet festival at the vineyard town of Eguisheim (all photos this spread ÂŠ AAA-Meyer).

It is like no other region in France, and Alsatian wines are similarly atypical: only they, out of all the famous wine regions, are allowed to print the grape varieties on the labels. Wine should always be sampled with the food with which it was intended to be paired. In this case, we are talking about the wonderful German-French cuisine, such as flammekuche and sauerkraut, which, done correctly, can take months to prepare. Alsace can be enjoyed at any time of year. Indeed, no other place in France does Christmas quite like here. From the end of November through to the beginning of January, all of Alsace is festooned and adorned with all things festive. One hundred markets take place throughout the region, with gourmet offerings and handmade crafts on offer. Truly an exceptional place. Further Information Tourism in Alsace www.tourisme-alsace.com

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Gourmet picnic in the vineyards of Corgoloin (photo © Alain Doire/Bourgogne Tourisme).

Burgundy Through the GRAPEVINE

THINK YOU KNOW BURGUNDY? THINK AGAIN. THIS CLASSIC DESTINATION HAS A RAFT OF NEW ATTRACTIONS THAT WILL DELIGHT FIRST-TIME VISITORS, AND ENSURE EXISTING FANS FALL IN LOVE ALL OVER AGAIN. BY PERSEPHONE NICHOLAS

eloved for its fine wines and fabulous food, Burgundy, in the very heart of France, is famous for its picturesque vineyards and rich historical heritage. It lies just southeast of Paris and is bordered by the Loire River in the west, by Champagne (home to the historic city of Reims) and Alsace (where Strasbourg sits) in the east. Visitors flock here to explore the famous vineyards and taste the world-class wines, especially pinot noir and chardonnay. The cuisine is legendary too – Burgundy is the home of boeuf Bourguignon and coq au

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vin. Other local specialties include goat’s cheese, snails, truffles, Dijon mustard, Bresse poultry and Charolais beef. There’s plenty to do to help you work up an appetite. Explore the region’s Renaissance châteaux, ancient abbeys and fortified villages tucked between forests, mountains and rivers. They are sights to be savoured so enjoy them slowly – on foot, by bike or from a horse-drawn carriage, hot air balloon or lazy canal barge. Burgundy is a fantastic destination all year round, but if you’re passionate about Baroque opera, July is the time to come. The Beaune International Festival of Baroque

(www.festivalbeaune.com) is the premier baroque music festival in Europe, and stages performances in elegant venues including the Collégiale Notre-Dame and the Salle des Pôvres in the Hôtel-Dieu in Beaune. In the first weekend of autumn, Burgundy’s Fantastic Picnic (www.bourgogne-tourisme.com) takes eating outdoors to new heights. Come and enjoy this seasonal celebration with friends old and new, as part of the national Fête de la Gastonomie. Around 30 picnics are held with varying themes, including garden party, fancy dress and treasure-hunt – just browse the website and choose one that’s right for you.

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RAISE YOUR GLASS The Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits climats (plots of land that have been used for growing vines for centuries and have their own unique identities and cultures) are currently being considered for UNESCO World Heritage status. Their listing is expected to be announced later in 2015 and will be the cause for celebration in Burgundy and beyond. (www.burgundytourism.com/discover/the-climats)

THE FALLOT MUSTARD MILL Explore what happens behind the doors of this leading French mustard producer (www. fallot.com). A three-part tour invites you to discover the history and mystery behind the Brassica seed, encounter mustard making up close, and taste the best with guidance from the experts. The new workshop-style boutique opened in Dijon in 2014 in front of the city’s chouette (owl), and every experience is designed to bring the famous condiment to life.

LOCABOAT BURGUNDY CRUISES River cruising is a perfect way to explore Burgundy’s sensational scenery. Locaboat (www.locaboat.com) offers a variety of cruises and self-drive boats suitable for large or small groups (no boat license required). There are special options available for food and wine lovers, including a guided half-day tour of the vineyards between Beaune and Chagny. Learn about geology, history, vine-growing or winemaking techniques, enjoy tours and tastings at some of the local cellars, and sample a mâchon (authentic local snack) too.

VERTIGO HOTEL DIJON Indulge in the finer things in life at this ultra chic hotel in central Dijon, newly opened in April. Set in a Haussmann-style building, Vertigo (www.vertigohoteldijon.com/en/) has a predominantly monochrome interior complemented with sophisticated accent shades. Offering 42 luxurious designer rooms and suites, the establishment has an indoor swimming pool, hammam and sauna plus a retro-style bar offering cocktails, champagne and local vintage wines.

From top: Inside the Fallot mustard workshop and boutique; the historic commune of Vézelay (both photos © Alain Doire/Bourgogne Tourisme); sleek styling at the Vertigo Hotel (photo © Vertigo).

Further Information Burgundy Tourism www.burgundy-tourism.com

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Champagne

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Fire-breathing dragon at the World Festival of Puppet Theatre in Charleville-Mézières (photo © Philippe Mangen).

A sparkling LEGACY

THE MAGICAL CHAMPAGNE REGION, HOME OF ‘THE KING OF WINES’, BOASTS SPARKLING TOWNS AND VILLAGES, LABYRINTHS OF CHALK WINE CELLARS AND COUNTLESS GASTRONOMIC TREASURES. BY VANESSA COUCHMAN

he historic home of champagne, due for listing this year as a UNESCO heritage site, is just 45 minutes from Paris by highspeed train. The vineyards and extensive cellars of Épernay, the capital of champagne production, have long been a mecca for visitors. And the former coronation city of Reims is today the headquarters of prestigious champagne houses. Other gems await too.

CANALS AND CELLARS A visit to the ‘Sparkling Venice’ of Châlons-en-Champagne is a must. This tranquil town of half-timbered houses, interlaced with rivers and canals, is easily reached from Épernay, Reims and Paris. From March to September, see the buildings from an unusual angle with a tourist office boat trip on rivers that flow in tunnels beneath the historic centre. Sightseeing by 42

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Segway around the town’s parks, gardens and heritage sites is also recommended – the hire even includes a training session. Châlons is the headquarters of the celebrated Champagne Joseph Perrier (www.josephperrier.com). Don’t miss a visit to their chalk cellars, where you can learn about the history of the brand and taste its treasures. For fine dining and modern comfort, look no further than the Hotel Renard (www.le-renard.com), conveniently situated in the town centre. Its gourmet restaurant offers dishes combining local products with seasonal inspiration.

PUPPETRY AND POETRY Charleville-Mézières, northeast of Reims, is noted for its varied architecture. The arcades of Place Ducale, modelled on Paris’ Place des Vosges, is its showpiece. The town is the world capital of puppet

Wall mural at the Renoir Centre in Essoyes (photo © CRTCA).

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MOËT & CHANDON UNVEILS MAKEOVER The cellars of iconic champagne house Moët & Chandon (www.moet.com) will reopen to the public in October 2015, following an extensive makeover. This includes lift access for visitors with reduced mobility, and an upgrade of the visitors’ centre. Moët & Chandon will also offer a new prestige cellar visit and tasting.

theatre, where puppeteers train and the World Festival of Puppet Theatre (www.festival-marionnette.com) takes place every second year. Puppets even emerge on the hour from Le Grand Marionnettiste, a huge clock, to play a scene from a local legend. Arthur Rimbaud, renowned for his hallucinatory prose-poems, was born here, and 2016 marks the 125th anniversary of his death. The Rimbaud Museum, set in an imposing watermill on the River Meuse, will reopen in July 2015, following refurbishment. Enjoy post-modern comfort in a former warehouse, the Dormeur du Val Hotel (hotel-dormeur-du-val.com), named after a Rimbaud poem.

CHAMPAGNES AND CANVASES Travel via medieval Troyes to the delightful stone village of Essoyes, amidst the Côte des Bar vineyards. Its most famous resident was the great Impressionist painter Auguste Renoir. You can gain a glimpse into Renoir’s world in the great master’s studio and at the Renoir Centre (www.renoiressoyes.com). The centre has teamed up with wine experts to develop an original idea. Great paintings and wines are often praised in similar terms, so they have matched 10 outstanding champagnes with 10 of Renoir’s works. ‘The Champagnes of Renoir’ exhibition runs from June to August 2015 at the Renoir Centre. Champagne tastings will be available. The Renoir theme continues at l’hôtel des Canotiers (www.hoteldescanotiers. com), named after one of his most famous paintings, with superb views of the village and vineyards. Further Information Champagne-Ardenne Tourist Board www.champagne-ardenne-tourism.co.uk

Top: Champagne is a lush patchwork of vineyards (photo © Phovoir). Below: Classic timberwork in the town of Châlons-enChampagne (photo (c) CRTCA).

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Beaune

BEGUILING in Burgundy TAKE A MEDIEVAL GEM, ADD WORLDCLASS WINE AND FOOD AND SEASON WITH CULTURAL HIGHLIGHTS, AND YOU HAVE BEAUNE – A BURGUNDY STAY TO REMEMBER. BY VANESSA COUCHMAN

ntimate and full of charm, Beaune is a must-see destination on a tour of Burgundy. This medieval jewel, separated by ramparts from the surrounding vineyards, has been the centre of the world-famous Burgundy wine trade for centuries. Its crowning glory is the 15th-century Hôtel-Dieu (www.hospices-de-beaune.com) with its multi-coloured roof tiles, a tribute to the grandeur of the Dukes of Burgundy. It’s now the venue for the Beaune Hospices Wine Auction, a major event every November. And the Dukes’ former palace has become a fitting setting for the Burgundy Wine Museum. Culture seekers will be enchanted by the range of events on offer.

Top: Marjorie and her daughter Kendall of the Cook’s Atelier Beaune (photo © The Cook’s Atelier). Right: Wine-tasting overlooking the vineyards of Aloxe-Corton (photo © Sensation Vin).

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TASTE AND CREATE Beaune provides plenty of choice for gourmet travellers. Sampling its local specialities is de rigueur, among them mustard, blackcurrant liqueur and, of course, stunning vintages. Burgundy is renowned for its mustard. The family-run Moutarderie Fallot (www.fallot.com), established in 1840, has invented new taste combinations but preserved its traditional methods. Two interactive tours teach you about the history of mustard making while you taste Fallot’s range of flavoured mustards and vinegars. Learn the secrets of shopping and cooking like the French at The Cook’s Atelier (www. thecooksatelier.com). Marjorie Taylor and her daughter Kendall were captivated by Beaune and now share its culinary treasures in their market tour and cooking class. They take you to find the finest ingredients at farmers’ markets and artisan food producers. You then prepare a mouth-watering seasonal lunch, with matching wines, and learn new techniques under their expert guidance. Take time out with Sensation Vin (www. sensation-vin.com) to discover the celebrated Burgundy vintages. It offers a range of tasting sessions, from a couple of hours to a weekend. The courses take place in a relaxed, state-of-theart environment, centrally located next to the Wine Museum. Sensation Vin also runs bespoke excursions to the Burgundy vineyards. An ideal way to tour the vineyards, and work off some of that gourmet food, is on two wheels. Dedicated cycle trails wind through the rolling countryside, villages and vineyards. Detours in France (www.detours-in-france.com) creates accompanied or self-guided tours, featuring wine and culture. Or take a guided ride including wine tastings with Bourgogne Evasion (www.bourgogne-evasion.fr).

STYLISH STAYS Whether you fancy a luxury hotel, a characterful B&B or a comfortable self-catering gîte, Beaune offers stays for all tastes. For an unforgettable stint in unique surroundings, Côté Rempart (www.coterempart.com) is an elegant 18th-century mansion backing onto the medieval ramparts. The owners have tastefully decorated the four spacious bedrooms, combining classic style with modern comforts, including air-conditioning. Or how about a converted winery? The roomy self-catering Cuverie de Cîteaux (www. cuverie-citeaux-beaune.co.uk) in the village of Savigny-lès-Beaune offers four bedrooms and a swimming pool. It also boasts a superb vaulted cellar dating from the 15th century, where the wine was once made.

Top right: Laid-back luxury at B&B La Cuverie de Cîteaux (photo © La Cuverie de Cîteaux). Top left: Former winery Côté Rempart, now a deluxe guesthouse (photo © Côté Rempart). Above: Inside the factory store at Fallot, showcasing Beaune’s most famous products (photo © Fallot).

A LITTLE NIGHT MUSIC Beaune enjoys a rich musical tradition, a legacy of the court of the Dukes of Burgundy. The festival season gets going with the International Baroque Music Festival in July. The autumn Jazz and Wine Festival coincides with the grape harvest, and jazz buffs can indulge in some tuneful tasting. Further Information Beaune Tourist Office www.beaune-tourism.com

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Above: Place de la Libération in the town centre is close to Dijon’s most timeless attractions (photo © Atelier Démoulin).

Dijon

SURROUNDED ON VIRTUALLY ALL SIDES BY HERITAGE-LISTED BURGUNDIAN VINEYARDS, DIJON BLENDS DECADES OF CULTURAL HERITAGE WITH A MODERN ATTITUDE – AND LASHINGS OF SUPERB FOOD AND WINE. BY SOPHIE IBBOTSON

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ijon, the capital of Burgundy, has one foot in the past and the other in the future, and they blend seamlessly into one another. This is epitomised by the 14th century Palace of the Dukes, a masterpiece of medieval architecture, which encompasses the newly renovated Museum of Fine Arts with its panoramic view of history from antiquity to the 21st century. Recognised as a French City of Art and History, Dijon is deeply proud of its heritage, and its preeminence in culture is expressed in every field, from gastronomy and architecture, to music and the creative arts.

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JUST FOR FOODIES

From top: The mighty and modern Le Consortium (photo © Le Consortium); La Part des Anges, one of Dijon’s most evocative wine bars (photo © La Part des Anges); wine tasting session (photo © Office de Tourisme de Dijon/Michel Joly).

CULTURE ON TAP At 97 hectares, Dijon is one of the largest protected areas in France, and this has enabled the city to retain its unique architecture and character over time. The vast Palace of the Dukes dominates central Dijon, and within its ancient walls is housed one of the oldest and most important museums in France, Dijon’s Museum of Fine Arts (mba.dijon.fr). Founded in the late 18th century and fully renovated in 2014, highlights include the tombs of the dukes, relocated here from the Chartreuse de Champmol in 1827; two important sculpted altarpieces in the international gothic style, one of which still bears paintings by Melchior Broederlam; and souvenirs of the Sainte-Chapelle and the Golden Fleece, an order of chivalry created by Philippe le Bon in 1430. Dijon’s creative community is far from backward looking, however, and the UK’s Daily Telegraph even went as far as to describe Dijon as a “vanguard of contemporary art and design.” This accolade is thanks largely to Le Consortium (leconsortium.fr), a remarkable gallery refurbished and expanded by Japanese architect Shigeru Ban. The museum covers 4,000 square metres and displays the works of more than 300 international artists, as well as hosting regular performances of groundbreaking theatre, music, and dance.

The city’s dedication to internationalism and quality recently enabled Dijon to spearhead the successful campaign to have French cuisine included on UNESCO’s world heritage list. Now Djion is going one step further when it opens its new International City of Gastronomy centre in 2018, and the tastebuds of every visitor will be tickled by local specialities such as boeuf Bourguignon (beef casserole in red wine), oeufs en meurette (poached eggs in red wine) and jambon persillé (jellied ham with parsley). Wine features heavily in Dijon’s cooking, and rightly so: Burgundy’s wines are world famous. The region’s ribbon of pre-eminent vineyards has earned the moniker the ChampsÉlysées of Burgundy, and they fall within the Côte d’Or climats, the 1,247 unique vineyard plots that will be recognised formally by UNESCO in 2015 as part of France’s global heritage. No visit to Burgundy would be complete without at least one vineyard tour and wine tasting, and the Côte de Nuits wine region is easily accessible on a day trip from Dijon. On a guided tour you will learn about the terroir and the tending of the vines, and also have the opportunity to sample wines by the likes of Gevrey-Chambertin, Nuits-Saint-Georges, and Romanée-Conti. Santé! Further Information Dijon Tourist Office www.visitdijon.com/en

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Alain Ducasse

Just add GENIUS ONE OF PARIS’ MOST ICONIC RESTAURANTS RECEIVES A SWEEPING MODERN OVERHAUL, AND AN ALL-NEW MENU THAT CELEBRATES SIMPLE, NATURAL CUISINE. BRING ON THE APPLAUSE FOR ALAIN DUCASSE AU PLAZA ATHÉNÉE.

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tepping off the boutique-lined street and through the revolving doors at Hôtel Plaza Athénée, the recognition is instant – numerous productions have been filmed here, including The Devil Wears Prada and the final TV episodes of Sex and the City. But it is the relaunch of its restaurant under the helm of Alain Ducasse that has drawn us here. Entering the restaurant there is a sense of subtle change, as the light refracts off the dramatic, mostly white décor. Industrious staff flit about, meticulously preparing for service.

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Clockwise from top left: Black rice with cockles and mussels; extravagant Swarovski chandeliers; Atlantic-style sashimi with baby leeks and black olives.

Alain Ducasse is one of the most celebrated French chefs of his generation, and currently holds 19 Michelin stars from his restaurants around the world. He oversees 12 restaurants in Paris, each created individually, and each conceived so the restaurant guest and the producer are as important as the chef. His ambition here – of balancing timeless French gastronomy with a deeply personal take on sustainable dining – is one that only a master could carry off.

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Top and right: Stainless steel shells and a magnificent hull-like form in the dining room. Above: Head chef Romain Meder with mastermind Alain Ducasse. All photos © Pierre Monetta.

AN ARTFUL MIX The food comes arranged on Japanese lacquer or clayware made by artisans in Africa and Colombia. Although the ingredients are thoroughly European, the concept here takes cues from Japanese Shojin cuisine, in which ‘the vegetable knows how it wants to be cooked,’ as Ducasse puts it. The menu centres on fish, vegetables and cereals (grains), sourced from individual fishermen who catch small hauls, and organic gardeners at Jardin de la Reine outside Versailles. Ducasse takes an unfettered approach to working these pure ingredients. We are served toasted grain cakes that are startlingly crisp yet light; beluga lentils worked into an aromatic oilinfused risotto. Ducasse calls it ‘humble produce served as gastronomy’. Each season yields different flavour possibilities. Sea bass, oysters and shrimps are sought

in September and October; in the northern winter there’s sole, sea bream and John Dory. The chef rejoices in the heritage of every vegetable served. “There are peas, because the ladies of the court gobbled them down, and artichokes, introduced by Catherine of Medici and supposedly with aphrodisiac virtues,” Ducasse is quoted as saying. The wine list was compiled by sommelier Gérard Margeon to complement Ducasse’s pure flavours. His focus is on small vineyards, with some limited-edition wines by talented amateurs. Guests can also select some classic bottles, often last in their line, such as Château Pétrus (1988 and 2003) and the monumental Château de Fargues (2004 and 2008).

MODERNIST MAKEOVER Interior design team Patrick Jouin and Sanjit Manku have approached their design task with the mindset that a meal is like a song, and its

memory must be augmented. Otherwise, Jouin says, “As soon as the singing ends, there is nothing left except memories.” Their work certainly leaves a lasting impression for us. Into the original Belle Époque-era space, with its fluted columns and oversized Swarovski crystal chandeliers, the design team has infused sculpture-like modern furnishings to create the impression of change. Three giant stainless steel shells at the entrance create a discreet seating area; a massive boat-hull form soars over one banquette. The Athénée provides a dining experience that engages the entire body, marrying two quintessential French flavours: cosmopolitan Paris and the purity of the Provinces. Further Information Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée www.alain-ducasse.com

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Provence

The GOOD life

A NEW EXECUTIVE CHEF AT TERRE BLANCHE HOTEL SPA GOLF RESORT REIMAGINES THE RESORT’S EXEMPLARY CUISINE, WHILE THE DELUXE FACILITIES CONTINUE TO DELIGHT VISITORS OF EVERY INCLINATION.

t’s a picture you know well: majestic snowy tips in the background, dazzling azureblue Mediterranean Sea in front. Ochreroofed villages perch prettily on limestone cliffs, rows of lavender and olives scenting the air under a gentle and relentless sun. Ever since Grace Kelly and Cary Grant’s precarious car chase through the hills of Pays de Fayence, the painterly landscape of Provence has been emblazoned in the popular imagination. And it is right here that Terre Blanche Hotel Golf Spa Resort is nestled, those delightful villages of Fayence, Tourrettes and others just a short drive away in a speedy convertible. A member of the Leading Hotels of the World Exclusive Collection, Terre Blanche is an indulgent escape away from the hustle and bustle of Provence’s coast. It’s a resort in every sense of the word. Lavish restaurants, deluxe styling, two heated pools, a kids’ club and two 18-hole cham-

pionship golf courses ensure that every guest can discover their own brand of excitement. Discerning foodies also come here for the fine dining, and Terre Blanche has handselected a number of acclaimed chefs over the years to oversee its four restaurants. Returning to the role of executive chef in early 2015 is Michelin-hatted Philippe Jourdin, who previously worked at Relais Louis XIII and Tour d’Argent in Paris, and earlier at Terre Blanche. Jourdin has created an ultra-hip menu, juxtaposing superb produce with unusual complements. Mains served at fine dining restaurant, Le Faventia, in early spring this year included semi-cooked duck foie gras with St Jeannet Muscat, fresh fruit marmalade and lemon macaroon; there was also a blue lobster roasted with Thai spices, press juice with sweet pepper and pineapple chutney, sesame and soja crispy vegetables.

Above: Sun-drenched cuisine and valley views at Le Faventia.

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Left: Guests can enjoy olive oil tastings and a range of other gourmet experiences. This page: Provençal styling is a hallmark of the villas and main buildings (all photos © Terre Blanche).

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When not splurging at Le Faventia, guests can also enjoy the more informal offerings at Le Gaudina – either in its cool terracotta-tiled interior, or on the terrace facing the gently sloping hills opposite the valley. Live jazz piano performances and service from early ‘til late make this a popular setting. This year, Terre Blanche also offers Le Pitchoun, a new Mediterranean-style buffet for littlies aged eight and under, as an extension to the kids’ club. And guests lounging by the pool simply need to nip across to Le Tousco for light salads offered buffet-style, while golfers can feast on Italian flavours at Les Caroubiers, inside the golf clubhouse. There’s much to see and do beyond the resort’s elegant grounds, but we’re here for an experience, right? So just ask the hotel’s obliging staff to arrange the many activities available right here, from active pursuits like tennis, horse riding or mountain biking, to more leisurely ones such as wine-tasting on the terrace, yoga and spa therapy. The 300-hectare estate itself is worthy of all the unstructured leisure time you can manage as well, with its walking trails, lakes, wildlife, flowers and countless spots to just throw down a blanket to read. Further Information

Terre Blanche Hotel Spa Golf Resort 3100 Route des Bagnols en Fôret 83440 Tourrettes en.terre-blanche.com 45 minutes from Nice Airport 90 minutes from Aix-en-Provence

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A NEW SHOW C R E AT E D A N D D I R E C T E D BY FRANCO DRAGONE

See all the latest about the new show on:

116 bis avenue des Champs -Élysées 75008 Paris Tel.: + 33 (0)1 40 76 56 49 • E-mail: tourisme@lido.fr

www.lido.fr

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From left: Sitting area in the Prestige Suite; winner of the Prix Meurice for contemporary art in the foyer; sunset dinner setting with full Paris views on the private balcony of the Belle Etoile suite (photos © Guillaume de Laubier).

Le Meurice

SUITE Sensation PARIS’ FIRST PALACE HOTEL, LE MEURICE HAS A DESERVED REPUTATION FOR ITS ICONIC OFFERINGS – FROM ITS FINE DINING TO THE PRIZED TUILERIES GARDENS LOCATION, BUT MOST OF ALL FOR ITS LAVISH GUEST ROOMS AND SUITES.

tay at a top Paris hotel, and you can look forward to serious pampering and exquisite surrounds. Stay at Le Meurice, and you can expect the unforgettable. Since its opening in 1818, and moving to its present location facing the Tuileries Garden in 1835, this venerable institution has hosted monarchs, aristocrats, artists and writers from around the world, and still fosters a long and proud link with the arts. In the public spaces, interior styling by the celebrated Philippe Starck ensures the original 19th century décor stays intriguing and relevant. Furnishings inspired by surrealist artist and longtime guest Salvador Dalí grace one of the restaurants, Le Dalí. Ducasse’s cuisine here, and

at the adjacent Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée, meanwhile, is a personal interpretation of a fresh and vibrant brand of French cuisine. The hotel is justifiably famed for its impeccable service, glamorous spa, guest amenities and 160 elegant rooms and suites. In each, Louis XVI styling by Charles Jouffre and Italian marble bathrooms are paired with modern comforts such as soundproofing, air-conditioning and entertainment units. A lavish ongoing upgrade means flawless functionality throughout. Many guest areas offer 180-degree views over Paris, including the Eiffel Tower. In the 42 suites, the level of luxury spans to multiple rooms, gracious sitting areas, oversized marble baths, and rare or antique artworks and ornaments.

For the ultimate indulgence, the Belle Etoile Royal Suite on the upper floor has a 250-squaremetre terrace with panoramic views of the Eiffel Tower, Sacré Coeur, Arc de Triomphe and more, and 300 square metres of unimaginably grand living space. Further Information Le Meurice 228 rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris, France +33 1 4458 1010 www.dorchestercollection.com/en/paris/ le-meurice

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MOLITOR Above: The heritage swimming pool at Molitor, surrounded by guest suites.

Stay

Immersed in STYLE AS TRAVELLERS DEMAND A MORE EMOTIVE TRAVEL EXPERIENCE, FRANCE’S TOP HOTELS ARE RESPONDING WITH STRIKINGLY ORIGINAL STAYS, DESIGNED TO TAKE THE MIND, BODY AND SOUL TO A WHOLE NEW LEVEL OF INDULGENCE.

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13 rue Nungesser et Coli, 75016 Paris www.mltr.fr

he staycation is passé – when it comes to travel, the all-of-body and mind experience is back in vogue. It’s no surprise that French hotels know just how to respond. Whether it’s a hotel sculpted from a swimming pool, or an interior inspired by lace, these Paris – and Lyon – hotels amp up the emotion for travellers in 2015.

MOLITOR Evocatively crafted around the shell of an Art Deco-era swimming pool, Molitor offers a radical retake on the hotel experience. Forget the traditional ‘amenities inside a big brick box’ notion of a hotel. From its ochre-painted ocean liner façade, to the courtyard-style structure where guest wings surround the central outdoor pool, Molitor is like a large slice of Parisian life. Set aside exclusively for guests, of course. Let’s start with Molitor’s concept – pool, art, life, around which every experience revolves. Going back a moment: this heritage site first opened in 1929 and features a 46m outdoor

pool and 33m indoor one; for years, it was vaunted for its extravagant galas and avantgarde ambience. After closing it fell into disrepair, becoming the haunt of street artists, before a Paris Mayoral Office-led project began the slow process of rebirth, completed in 2014. A consortium of architectural talents, including interior designer Jean-Philippe Nuel, have achieved a stunning overhaul. The two swimming pools form a lifestyle core, while the erstwhile Art Deco styling has been reinterpreted in a futuristic yet warm design concept. The era of neglect has been celebrated too, with the focus on urban art at its art gallery. Managed by MGallery, the Accor-signed collection of top-range hotels, Molitor offers 104 guest rooms and 20 suites, 400 square metres of modular meeting rooms, a spa, fitness club, and rooftop garden resplendent in aromatic herbs and floral displays. A highlight for guests and gourmets alike is Molitor’s restaurant, led by multi Michelin star-winning head chef, Yannick Alléno.

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HÔTEL D’AUBUSSON 33 rue Dauphine, 75006 Paris www.hoteldaubusson.com

HÔTEL D’AUBUSSON One of the most magical things about Paris is the sheer history behind every stone wall and magnificent oak door. A case in point is the Hôtel d’Aubusson, a grand 17th century residence located in Paris’ pretty 6th arrondissement on the Left Bank. Its piano bar, Café Laurent, is one of the city’s most venerable institutions for music and the arts – Gréco, Sartre, Mauriac and others once gathered here in the postwar years. Today it’s one of Paris’ most intimate jazz bars, with music programs from Wednesday through Saturday nights (and impromptu piano tinklings by aspiring musicians in between sessions). Its chocolatey hues and deep upholstery make this spot perfect for any intimate rendez-vous. Set a foot inside the stone carriage entrance and you’ll find a host of other old-world delights. Versailles parquet floors, open beams, a monumental fireplace in Burgundy stone and original Aubusson tapestries are a hallmark of the interior, along with oversized windows facing the interior courtyard, where guests can relax over a leisurely breakfast or evening aperitif. The hotel offers 49 rooms and junior suites, all tastefully fitted out with classic fur-

nishings and modern conveniences. That means a rich pastiche of textures and tones: timber panelling, original wallpapers, patterned upholstery, and velvets in burgundy or mustard, plus amenities including Hermès bathroom products, airconditioning and free Wi-Fi. The hotel also caters for business events and private functions, and offers a knowledgeable concierge who can help guests squeeze every last drop of enjoyment from their Paris stay.

Top: Vintage furnishings and fireplace in the Grand Salon. Left: Intimate guest patio (all photos © Hôtel d’Aubusson). MAGAZINE

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CHÂTEAUX & HÔTELS COLLECTION 22, rue Tronchet 75008 Paris www.hotelchavanel.com Châteaux & Hotels Collection www.chateauxhotels.com

From top left: The art and objet-filled lounge and entrance of the Chavanel Hotel; contemporary guest suite (all photos © Chavanel Hotel).

HÔTEL CHAVANEL Travellers visiting Paris for a spot of shopping will be intrigued by this hotel, which takes its design cues from the world of fashion – lacework, men’s tailoring and more. Nestled between the Madeleine quarter and Boulevard Haussmann, this intimate fourstar spot offers just 27 rooms and suites. As the address may suggest it’s set in a classic Haussmann-era neighbourhood, where owner and manager Sophie Charlet has overseen a dramatic revamp.

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Each guest suite boasts a pastiche of sensuous textiles, from the woollen gentlemen’s suiting-inspired curtains to the lace-like lampshades, cashmere quilting and velvet partitions. The all-new bathrooms have sculpted ceramic feature panels. The Chavanel’s common areas also celebrate Parisian chic, with elegant lounges, contemporary art, birch-tree partition and water feature designed to relax and inspire. There’s an organic breakfast served daily in the modern all-white restaurant, and exclusive gifts sold at

the boutique downstairs. Other services include 24-hour reception, luggage storage, babysitting, laundry service, car rental and more. Just ask the helpful staff. The hotel is part of the Châteaux & Hôtels Collection, which offers 520 exquisitely conceived addresses mostly in France and Italy. At their new Les Lodges Sainte-Victoire, facing the iconic mountain of the same name in Aix-en-Provence, guest rooms feature chic contemporary furniture paired with Baroque chandeliers.

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Top: Suites range from moody to effusive in their palettes. Below: Colour and inspiration at the restaurant (photos © Mama Shelter).

MAMA SHELTER Hip hotel, with Philippe Starck-designed interiors, quirky furnishings, affordable rates and plenty happening in the cultural department? Sure! Such was the concept of the first Mama Shelter, which opened in Paris in 2008 – and it’s been such a hit with its niche demographic, that Mama Shelter now operates in five cities. The latest – alongside Paris, Marseille, Istanbul and Bordeaux – is Lyon, which has a unique décor to match the energy-filled Jean Macé district where it is located. Citrus tones, timber finishes and hand-drawn wall art feature throughout the guest rooms and shared spaces, such as the restaurant, business corner and lobby. The 156 ultra-comfortable rooms and suites come in different sizes, from the 34-squaremetre Mama Penthouse replete with terrace, bath and sofa, to the petite 17-square-metre Mama Double. Each room comes with free movies on demand, iMacs, free wi-fi, desk, and bathrooms so cool you’ll feel a little thrill of hipness each time you step inside. The interior restaurant and outdoor terrace serve light, imaginative and contemporary takes on French dining – dishes like handcut beef tartare, or eggplant ravioli with Parmesan cheese and cream. You may want to purposefully forget some travel essentials, like toothbrush, contact lens case, skateboard or umbrella, because Mama Shelter sells its delightful and original range of such items in the downstairs shop. Added to this is a valet parking service, 24-hour concierge, laundry service and digitised traveller information. Located just three stations away from Lyon’s Part-Dieu Station, Mama Shelter Lyon is a fun place to stay.

MAMA SHELTER LYON www.mamashelter.com/fr/lyon 3 Rue Domer, 69007 Lyon

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Clockwise from below: The hotel’s grand entrance; artistic culinary creations from chef Christian Le Squer; classic styling in the restaurant (photos © Four Seasons Hotel George V).

George V

Jewel in the CROWN

JUST STEPS FROM THE CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES, THE FOUR SEASONS HOTEL GEORGE V BOASTS PRIVATE TERRACES FROM MOST OF THE GUEST ROOMS AND A STANDARD OF LUXURY NOT SEEN ANYWHERE. BY IAN RENWICK

harm, elegance and style – bywords for Paris, these ideals are mirrored in the Four Seasons Hotel George V. Some of France’s most revered craftsmen lovingly built and then restored this jewel, which is inextricably linked with some of the great events in French history. Choose to stay at the George V and uncover a fabulous combination of heritage, service and modernity. The highest standards of luxury await in all 244 rooms, including 59 unique suites where opulence abounds. The George V features a world-class spa and the two Michelin-starred restaurant, Le Cinq.

Here, recently arrived head chef, Christian Le Squer, brings his extensive experience to create a brand-new signature menu, emphasising synergy and balance, taste and texture, emotion and precision. He aims for the very cutting edge of design and style: his team is encouraged to explore Paris and discover everything that is on trend, not just in terms of food. Leading Le Squer’s dining room is the silver medal-winner of the world’s Best Sommelier championship, director Eric Beaumard. Join him regularly in uncovering some of the hidden treasures of George V’s famous underground wine cellars, built into the quarries that

produced the Arc de Triomphe stone. Let Eric help you unpick the secrets behind some of the world’s greatest wines. The George V will immerse you in the history of one of the capital’s most iconic hotels. Revel in the luxury, unwind in inimitable style, and eat and drink at the highest of French standards. Further Information Four Seasons Hotel George V www.fourseasons.com/paris

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Hôtel Plaza Elysées 3

Ksup

177 Boulevard Haussmann - 75008 Paris 3Ksup at 3mn walking distance from The Champs Elysées Avenue, Hotel fully renovated in 2014/15, Free access wi fi, Parquet on floor, Usb port in each room, Hot buffet CHAMPAGNE, Triple glazed windows, Nespresso coffee machine at reception Tel. +33 (0)1 45 63 93 83 plazaelysees@plazaelysees.com www.plazaelysees.com 60

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Paris region

Town & COUNTRY WITH HEADLINE-MAKING MUSEUM UNVEILINGS, UNRIVALLED IMPRESSIONIST EXHIBITIONS AND NEW TWISTS ON THE FABLED FRENCH GASTRONOMY, THERE HAS NEVER BEEN A BETTER TIME TO DISCOVER PARIS AND HER SURROUNDS. BY ELLA LOMBARDI

aris is a city that seduces like no other. Synonymous with style through art, fashion food, literature and history, her charms are legendary. But alongside the inviting sidewalk cafés, mesmerising architecture and historical monuments, gleaming luxury boutiques and an unrivalled restaurant scene, the City of Light has burst into 2015 with an even more polished version of her beautiful self. Drop-dead gorgeous, fashionable and confident, Paris is ready to inspire.

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Top: Eiffel Tower and a hazy shade of winter (photo © G Targat/CRT PIdF). Centre: The tree-fringed Fondation Louis Vuitton (photo © Iwan Baan). Below: Sights and savouries aboard a Bustronome tour (photo © Bustronome).

Paris’ legendary French fare is on the move. Jump aboard the first travelling restaurant in Paris and get comfortable while you enjoy a moving feast – literally. Bustronome (www.bustronome.com) is a clever new concept that combines touring and culinary appreciation on board the luxury double-decker bus with a panoramic glass roof. Sip a chablis or nibble on foie gras with sauterne as you effortlessly glide past the glittering Eiffel Tower and some of the city’s most spectacular architectural highlights. If you’d rather take things a little slower, why not dine with a French couple or friends in their typically Parisian apartment (meetingthefrench.fr). Don’t be shy; it’s all part of getting to know French culture – and linguistics – through food and wine in the intimate surrounds of a cosy pied-a-terre with your welcoming hosts. If fresh produce gets your foodie juices flowing, there is no better place to head than Rungis Markets (www. rungismarket.com). The world’s largest fresh produce market explodes with seafood, a butchery and dairy hall as well as fresh fruit, vegetables and flowers, open every weekday except bank holidays and during the month of August. The only downside? You need to be up early, as it’s all over by 7.30am. MAGAZINE

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H E R I T A G E Clockwise from top: Exterior of the Army Museum (photo © Musée de l’Armée,dist. RMNGP/A.-S. MarreNoël); Galerie des Gobelins (photo © JP Humbert); Portrait, ‘Napoléon Ier en uniforme de colonel des chasseurs de la Garde’, 1809, by Robert Lefèvre (1755-1830) (photo © Musée Carnavalet/RogerViollet).

HISTORY LESSON He may have been slight of stature but the impact Napoleon Bonaparte (1769-1821) left on European history during his 15-year reign was of giant proportions. This year, three very different Napoleon exhibitions are being staged, dedicated to his namesake. Running until 30 August at the Musée Carnavalet (www.carnavalet.paris.fr/en) is an exhibition of nearly 400 works and documents reflecting Napoleon’s love and relationship with the city that provided the backdrop to his political theatre.

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Through to the end of July at the Galerie des Gobelins (www.gobelins.fr) visitors can discover the luxurious living Napoleon demanded while on the campaign trail. No expenses were spared, with tents more like travelling palaces. From March 27 to July 14, 2016, the Army Museum: Hotel National des Invalides (www. musee-armee.fr) is dedicated to the exile of Napoleon on Saint Helena, depicting his everyday life on the island until his death in 1821. This is the first time the contents from his recently restored home, Longwood House, will be shown at another venue.

Beyond the ancient walls of Paris is a delightful region offering multiple cultural, festive, sporting and professional events. The favourite stop on everyone’s list is Versailles (en.chateauversailles.fr), which this year offers a series of grand open-air shows in the enchanting Orangerie Gardens. From 26 October, the château’s major exhibition will commemorate the 300th anniversary of the death of Louis XIV at Versailles, on 1 September. Make sure to also visit nearby la Cour des Senteurs (www.parfumsetsenteurs.fr) to experience the traditions, expertise and raw materials that make up the world of perfume.

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ART OF THE MATTER Paris’ recent multiple openings have had the art and culture buffs around the world buzzing. One of Paris’ most beloved art collections has reopened its doors after a massive five-year renovation. The Musée Picasso (www.museepicasso.fr) woos art lovers with 5,000 drawings, engravings, paintings, ceramic works and sculptures by the grand maître himself, Pablo Picasso. Completely redesigned and restored, it boasts a unique collection of the painter’s masterpieces covering his career from 1895–1972. In the lungs of Paris, the Bois de Boulogne, you’ll find the much-anticipated Fondation Louis Vuitton (www.fondationlouisvuitton.fr), showcasing a mind-boggling body of contemporary art. Now open to the public, the daring design with 12 glass sails appears to float harmoniously over a lake. The city’s new state-of-the-art concert hall, Philharmonie de Paris (www.philharmoniedeparis.fr), aims to bring music and culture to all. A futuristic monolith, designed by French star architect Jean Nouvel, the building resembles a huge steel bird. But it’s inside that counts, with a prestigious musical lineup. Just 30 kilometres from Paris in the village of Auvers-sur-Oise, Impressionist painter Vincent Van Gogh lived out the last 70 days of his life. Remarkably, during that short time, he created nearly 80 paintings.

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Above: Starchitect Jean Nouvel has created a striking and ultramodern setting at the new Philharmonie de Paris (photo © Jean Nouvel/Arte Factory).

On 29 July it will be exactly 125 years since he died, and his legacy will be honoured in a remarkable program run by 30 institutions across Europe. Until September, Auvers-sur-Oise will celebrate Van Gogh through cinema with a public program. You can also take a step back in time at the Auberge Ravoux (www.maisondevangogh. fr), where he lived in a tiny, modest room and

painted some of his greatest works. Two-day tours will take visitors from Paris’ Musee D’Orsay, housing a collection of 24 Van Gogh paintings, to Auvers-sur-Oise where they will get to see his life in colour. For other Paris-based tours, and more Impressionism trips that take the path of landscape painters, see www.visitparisregion.com.

Above: The Musée d’Orsay houses one of the world’s finest collections of French art (photo © Musée d’Orsay/Patrice Schmidt). MAGAZINE

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THE PARIS REGION

Clockwise from top: Glamorous buys at Colette (photo © H Giansily/CRT PIdF); luxury fashions at Galeries Lafayette (photo © Thibaut Voisin); global designer options at One Nation Paris (photo © One Nation Paris).

If you’ve had your fill of art, history and culture, shop ‘til you drop almost anywhere in Paris or further afield. Around haute Marais, the shopping destination for effortlessly hip young things, you’ll find the best of Paris’ latest fashion finds. You’ll need more than a day to cover it all, from Isabel Marant’s cool knits on rue de Saintonge, to Helmet Lang, consignment shop Violette et Leonie and Paris-based men’s and women’s label FrenchTrotters. For classic chic, you can’t beat rue SaintHonoré, where luxury stores bump against each other for miles. Here you’ll find Givenchy, John Galliano, Miu Miu and Govard, to name a few. You’ll also easily know concept store Colette by the crowds forming outside. Spot the celebrities dining in the basement. And a trip to Paris must include the great department stores. Two beacons of Parisian shopping are Galeries Lafayette (www.galerieslafayette.com) and Printemps (www.printemps. com), which lie next to each other on 40 and 64 Boulevard Haussmann. Be warned, though: the first visit can be daunting because the stores are so enormous, and bursting with the best designer labels anywhere. For top buys outside the city, One Nation Paris in Versailles (www.onenation.fr) offers discounts of up to 70 per cent on top French labels. It’s easily accessible by shuttle. Further Information Visit Paris Region www.visitparisregion.com

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Clockwise from top: Cycle to iconic Parisian sights including the Sacre Coeur (photo © Atout France/PHOVOIR); Outdoor Travel barge and cycle tours allow for activity and relaxation in equal doses.

Cycle

ALL aboard TAKE IN THE WORLD’S MOST FASHIONABLE CITY ON WHEELS AND A BOAT WITH INNOVATIVE PROVIDER OUTDOOR TRAVEL, SUITABLY BILLED AS ‘THE ACTIVE HOLIDAY COMPANY’.

top a moment, and imagine winding down quiet lanes and meandering scenic waterways. Some places in the world merit slowing the pace, and Outdoor Travel’s tours let you do just that. On any of their Bike and Barge itineraries in France, you’ll spend your days discovering the culture and history of France before returning each day for a meal served aboard your floating home. Consider the Paris Highlights tour: a unique way to explore the charms of this beautiful city and its surrounding villages and countryside. Cycling along the Seine and Oise rivers, you will have a week to be inspired and awestruck, just as countless painters, kings and poets were before you. Well-maintained bicycles and back roads will allow you to view Fontainebleau, Notre Dame, Sacré Coeur and the forest of Compiègne from a totally different perspective.

Or book the Paris to Bruges trip, a fabulous two-week exploration of northern France and Belgium, which sees you visiting city, countryside, historical sites and the occasional brewery. After exploring Paris and Versailles, cruise through Auvers sur l’Oise, inspiration for many of the Impressionist painters. The tour takes in the forests of northern France, visited by generations of French royalty, before honouring the WWI battlefields of the Somme. Walloon and Flemish Belgium are next before you finish in stunning Bruges, nicknamed the Venice of the North. Outdoor Travel has over 30 years of experience organising active holidays around the world, from hiking the Milford Track in New Zealand to cooking in Provence. Their French cycling tours are interesting and varied, and cater to leisure cyclists or enthusiasts alike, with popular destinations including Provence, Burgundy, Champagne and the Loire Valley. Further Information Outdoor Travel Pty Ltd www.outdoortravel.com.au

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Normandy IMPRESSIONS of awe

Above: Campaign image for the renewed Mont SaintMichel (photo © Dietmar Feichtinger Architectes/SBP/ Leon Travel & Tourism).

STUNNING COASTAL NORMANDY IS FAMOUS FOR ITS PAINTERLY LANDSCAPES AND STIRRING D-DAY RELICS, AND OFFERS STYLISH EATS, SIGHTS AND STAYS AT EVERY TURN.

o matter which time of day you arrive at Mont Saint-Michel, the sight of this medieval village perched in the swirling tidal flats off coastal Normandy confirms its status as a ‘bucket list’ destination. Arrive early in mysterious fogs, only to revel in the scenery that unfolds mid-morning when the clouds have dissipated. Jostle through the islet’s narrow alleyways, steep stone stairs and charming shops at daytime. Or stay the night and be lulled to sleep by the surf, before rising early and experiencing the quiet 68

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awe of Mont Saint-Michel’s 8th century abbey. More than 100 years after the Impressionist painters hailed the region for its wide skies, crashing seas and idyllic green fields, launching their startling new art genre here, Normandy remains brimful of picture-perfect attractions like these. History has created a wealth of built treasures to complement its magnificent sea and landscapes. Famous towns include Bayeux of tapestry fame, Le Havre with its postwar architecture, Caen with its imposing ducal castle, and Rouen with its mighty cathedral.

More recently, Normandy marked 70 years since the Allied forces’ D-Day landings of 1944, which effectively brought an end to Germany’s occupation of France – albeit at great human cost. The Norman coast and countryside is dotted liberally with relics acknowledging the heart-rending sacrifices made here. Normandy’s largest cities, Rouen and Caen, are an hour or two each from Paris by train, along with important destinations such as Giverny.

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A DATE WITH THE IMPRESSIONISTS Normandy will forever be famous as the birthplace of Impressionism in the late 1800s. Attracted by the light quality and unspoiled countryside, artists such as Eugène Boudin, Camille Pissarro and Raoul Dufy flocked here in droves; their works can be seen today at Le Havre’s MuMa Museum (www.muma-lehavre.fr), which houses a phenomenal collection of Impressionist paintings. Don’t miss the Fine Art Museum in Rouen (mbarouen. fr/en) and its outstanding collections, or Monet’s home and gardens in Giverny (www.fondation-monet.com/fr). Regular exhibitions are also held at the Musée des Impressionnismes Giverny (www.mdig.fr). Coming up in 2016 is Normandy’s region-wide Impressionist Festival (www.normandie-impressionniste.eu), running from April to September. Iconic masterpieces will be loaned from galleries across the globe for the main exhibitions. The festival will celebrate a range of other arts influenced by Impressionism, including music, theatre and dance.

Above: Japanese bridge and summer lilies at Monet’s estate in Giverny (photo © Fondation Claude Monet Giverny). Below: The new bridge at Mont Saint-Michel, which lets the tides flow freely once more (photo © Sabina Lorkin/Anibas Photography/ Dietmar Feichtinger).

A MARVELLOUS VOYAGE In 2015, Mont Saint-Michel becomes an island once more (www.discovermontsaintmichel.com). A medieval commune built on a rocky outcrop 1 km offshore from the coast, Mont Saint-Michel appears to float when the tides have rushed in. It was listed as a UNESCO heritage site in 1979, and last year unveiled the fruits of a 10-year restoration of its marine setting. The final stage of this project is the removal of the concrete causeway in 2015, when a new pedestrian bridge and road becomes fully operational. Mont Saint-Michel will once again reclaim its island status, spectacular amid 15 hectares of tidal sands, with decades of damaging silt to be swept away again by the sea. MAGAZINE

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ALL-INCLUSIVE FRANCE RIVER CRUISING A 10 night cruise along the waterways of Bordeaux provides a different style of river cruising to anywhere else, with no overnight sailing this cruise promises maximum time to soak up the stunning scenery and enjoy the renowned wines. The 12 night South of France cruise traverses down the Saône and Rhône rivers. Unwind and indulge in the culinary delights, the architecture and some of France’s finest destinations. With Scenic the ultimate experience of all-inclusive luxury on board our magnificent Scenic Space-Ships has been crafted for you. All activities, entertainment, dining and beverages, unforgettable shore excursions and even airport transfers, tips and gratuities are included.

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1300 SCENIC 1300 723 642 scenictours.com.au *Conditions apply. Prices are per person twin share in AUD ex SYD/MEL/BNE/PER/ADL, are strictly limited, subject to availability on a specific date, until sold out. For new bookings only, not available in conjunction with any other offer. First $1,000 per person non-refundable deposit due within 7 days of booking. Offers are with an airline and in a particular class of Scenic’s choice. Applicable airline and airfare for the offer will be advised on release of the Europe River Cruise and Tours 2016 Brochure. Flights are subject to availability of appropriate airline class and once sold out surcharges may apply. Strictly limited suites available on set departures and subject to availability. Offer cannot be combined with any other offer and may be withdrawn at any time. 2016 at last year’s prices offers are strictly limited and available until sold out or withdrawn. Fly Business Class to Europe from $2,995 per person is based on departures in March, October and November 2016. Free Cabin Upgrade subject to availability and on selected balcony suites, excluding Junior and Royal Suites, selected departure dates and itineraries in March and October to December 2016, not combinable with Solo Traveller or Business Class offers; does not apply to Russia. Cabin upgrade is based on next available higher category of cabin, subject to availability. Price based on the following 2016 departures BOD 3 October Category E cabin (no balcony) FRAC 10 October Category E cabin (no balcony). Prices correct as of 18 February 2015. For full terms and conditions refer to 2016 Europe River Cruises & Tours Pre Release brochure. Scenic Tours ABN 85 002 715 602. QUOTE CODE: SNMA081

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Gerfici catus con de clus, ina, que o me tum ut ius contea ortiam re, pos, queruro parem tum audet, P. S

Clockwise from top left: Scene from the heritage-listed Bayeux Tapestry (photo © Ville de Bayeux); fine local mussels (photo © Andrea Bischoff); the former villa of Christian Dior, now a museum (photo © Emilie Ursule); festive umbrellas and amateur painting at Deauville (photo © Patrice Le Bris).

NAUTICAL AND NICE Nearby Saint-James is home to the clothing brand of the same name (www.saint-james. co.uk): think classic nautical stripes, pea coats, caps and more. Just 25 kilometres up the coast is Granville, birthplace of designer Christian Dior, whose childhood home has been preserved as a museum showcasing a revolving display of 40 fashion creations each year (www.musee-diorgranville.com). The clifftop villa also offers an enchanting tearoom and intimate garden, famous for its variety of roses. Normandy has another important fashion connection – the resort town of Deauville, known for its horse-racing scene, beachside boardwalk and ornate Norman architecture. It was here that Coco Chanel opened one of her first boutiques in 1913; later, Jean Patou and Yves

Saint-Laurent also opened here. Further east lies a smattering of coastal towns, as charming as they are historical. Bayeux’s eponymous museum houses the Bayeux Tapestry (www.bayeuxmuseum. com). Measuring 76 metres, the embroidered UNESCO-listed artwork details the conquest of England in 1066 by William the Conqueror. The historic port city of Le Havre (www. lehavretourisme.com) was 80 per cent destroyed in World War II. The postwar city centre later built in its place, according to the vision of ‘concrete poet’ Auguste Perret, is now UNESCO heritage-listed – the world’s first 20th century settlement to receive such an accolade.

CAPITAL IDEAS Rouen, the historic capital of Normandy, has a colourful history that includes Viking

incursions, clashes with England during the Hundred Years War, and – famously – the trial and burning of Joan of Arc in 1431. A new museum in her memory, the Historial Joan of Arc History Museum (ww.historial-jeannedarc. fr), opened in early 2015 and features interactive displays, two crypts and numerous artworks. No visitor should miss Rouen Cathedral, a gothic masterpiece immortalised by longtime Normandy resident, Claude Monet, in more than 30 luminous Impressionist paintings. Die-hard shoppers can head to stylish precincts such as rue Saint-Romain or les Docks 76, while culturati have a spate of museums and galleries to choose from. The latest addition is Panorama XXL, a giant rotunda beside the River Seine, which exhibits panoramic artworks mounted on an above-ground viewing platform (www.panoramaxxl.com). MAGAZINE

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Clockwise from top: Intimate hotel La Chenevière, set in lush parklands (photo © La Chenevière); sampling the local calvados (photo © Tourisme Calvados); Monet’s former home and studio, Maison de Giverny (photo © Thierry Houyel).

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DREAM A LITTLE DREAM Visitors are spoilt for choice when it comes to cool accommodations in Normandy. Close to Bayeux and the D-Day landing beaches is La Chenevière (www.lacheneviere.fr), a former Norman château with a rich history and 29 spacious rooms and suites, surrounded by 12 hectares of wonderful parkland. Also in the vicinity is Le Domaine Albizia (www.albizia. eu), an 18th century farmhouse turned into an intimate B&B with chic modern interiors. Another nearby highlight is the justrenovated MGallery and Thalassa Sea Spa hotel, Les Cures Marines de Trouville (www.mgallery. com), created from the massive former Trouville casino. Its 103 deluxe rooms and suites are the epitome of luxury and fine furnishing; two floors of thalasso and spa areas are a highlight of its guest amenities.

In Normandy’s inland department of Orne, Hotel de Suhard near the medieval town of Bellême is the perfect base for exploring Normandy’s dreamy countryside, with its verdant forests, cider houses and intimate restaurants serving Normandy’s creamy cuisine. The hotel is a former 17th century townhouse with a reassuring blend of modern comforts and classic styling. The town of Alençon in Orne is famous for its needlepoint lace, also UNESCO heritage-listed. A visit to the Musée des Beaux-arts et la Dentelle (www.facebook.com/museedentellealencon) will change your notions on lace forever. Further Information Tourism Normandy www.normandy-tourism.org

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His Excellency, Christophe Lecourtier

EXPERIENCE the WWI centenary in France HIS EXCELLENCY, CHRISTOPHE LECOURTIER, TOOK UP HIS POSITION AS FRENCH AMBASSADOR TO AUSTRALIA IN JULY 2014. HE HAS ALSO HELD SENIOR ROLES IN A NUMBER OF KEY FRENCH MINISTRIES. HERE, HE SHARES SOME THOUGHTS ON TRAVELLING TO FRANCE DURING THE WORLD WAR I CENTENARY.

1 6 2 7 3 49 5 10 What role do you play as a French Ambassador? Promoting France’s many incredible faces – including business, culture and art de vivre. France has so much to offer, because it has both rich traditions and dynamic changes.

Personal icons of French design? Jean-Paul Gaultier. After touring London, Montreal and Melbourne, a major exhibition of his collections will be held this year at the Grand Palais in Paris.

Your message to Australians during the commemorations of World War I? Everywhere in France, and notably in Picardie and Nord-Pas-de-Calais, Australian visitors will be welcomed and will be treated as true friends who helped save our country.

Musée du Quai Branly in Paris (photo © Quai Branly)

More generally, which French destinations are you keen to revisit? I was deeply moved recently to see how Mont SaintMichel, in Normandy, has returned to what it was for centuries: an island when the tide is high.

Cobber of Fromelles statue (photo © Anne-Sophie Flament)

Your favourite art collection in France? Many! One is Musée des Arts Premiers in Paris, which is about the world’s oldest civilisations – but also about the connection between early and modern art.

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Place des Vosges in Paris (photo © Paris Tourist Office/Amélie Dupont)

Favourite restaurant in France? Ma Bourgogne, a traditional bistro near the Place des Vosges in the Marais. It has been owned by the same family since the late 70s. Tell them I sent you there!

Best activity to do as family in France? The TGV puts everything within easy reach, so I would suggest spending weekends in the countryside, visiting the châteaux and dining at local restaurants – a wonderful way to spend time together.

Your favourite example of contemporary architecture? The Philharmonie of Paris by Jean Nouvel, and Fondation Louis Vuitton by Frank Gehry. These are the best recent examples of a city on the move.

Your top sights in Paris? The view from the rooftop of the Centre Georges Pompidou, and from the Park des ButtesChaumont, northeast of Paris.

Finally, tell us your favourite place in Australia so far? So far I have loved Noosa in Queensland, Margaret River in WA, Jervis Bay in NSW, and Adelaide. Next, I am looking forward to cycling in Tasmania.

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Marking the Great War CENTENARY FROM NOW THROUGH TO THE ARMISTICE CENTENARY IN NOVEMBER 2018, MANY MEANINGFUL GREAT WAR MEMORIAL EVENTS WILL TAKE PLACE THROUGHOUT FRANCE AND FLANDERS. HERE’S OUR PICK FOR THE NEXT 12 MONTHS.

2015 DATES Through to November 2018 Coming World Remember Me – Art Sculpture Workshop, Ypres (Flanders) Take part in a workshop to commemorate one of the 600,000 victims who lost their lives in WWI in Belgium. www.cwrm.be/en 8 July onwards, Somme and surrounds Tour de France competitors will pass through a 100-kilometre ‘Stage of Remembrance’ between Arras and Amiens. www.letour.fr July 9, Ypres (Flanders) The 30,000th Last Post will be performed at Menin Gate, from 8pm. www.flandersfields1418.com Various dates to 25 July, Verdun Massive sound and light show, with English translation. Historic scenes are recreated by 250 actors and countless special effects. spectacle-verdun.com 20 – 21 September, Grand Palais, Paris Exhibition of photographs evoking the grand building’s role as a hospital during the Great War, held as part of the European Heritage Days in Paris programme (www.journeesdupatrimoine.culture.fr). www.grandpalais.fr/en 20 September, Lens-Benifontaine With aerial displays, exhibitions and more, Lens AirShow culminates two weeks of intense activities dedicated to remembering World War I. www.meeting-air-lens.com

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Top: International memorial to the soldiers fallen across Nord–Pas de Calais during World War I (photo © Pouille). Above: Memorial to Australian soldiers in Flanders (photo © Milo-Profi).

30 September – 4 October, Châlons-enChampagne Now in its third year, the War on Screen: International Festival of War Cinema will include several films based on World War I. waronscreen.com 5 – 30 October, Mulhouse, Alsace Exhibition at the library in Mulhouse, on living during the war between the two sides of the Rhine River. www.vivre-en-temps-deguerre-1914-1918.fr/les-dates-infos-pratiques

2016 DATES Verdun A suite of refreshed facilities and spaces will add a compelling backdrop to the audiovisual displays and huge collection at Verdun Memorial. www.memorialdeverdun.fr 17 – 26 July, Pozières Twenty scenes recreating the Battle of the Somme, which claimed 23,000 Australian soldiers’ lives. www.digger-pozieres.org Further Information French Tourist Bureau www.rendezvousenfrance.com

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PO RT RAIT Top: Dawn service at the Australian National Memorial in Villers-Bretonneux (photo © ADRT80-Baie Attitude). Inset: The Hon Dr Brendan Nelson (photo supplied by the Australian War Memorial).

Interview

REMEMBERING our diggers ONE HUNDRED YEARS AFTER THE GREAT WAR, AUSTRALIAN WAR MEMORIAL DIRECTOR, THE HON DR BRENDAN NELSON, SHARES HIS THOUGHTS ON THE SIGNIFICANCE OF AUSTRALIA’S ROLE ON THE WESTERN FRONT. In the early days of their involvement, Australians were considered important political and strategic allies for Britain. Australian forces arrived in France in 1916, having already partnered with Britain on its Gallipoli assault – albeit at great human cost. Britain’s dominions were considered a great addition to its military capability, helping execute their strategies. The involvement on the Western Front immediately translated into immense casualties for Australia – 23,000 at Mouquet Farm and Pozières alone. Australians quickly proved their competence on the frontline. The diggers gained renown for their egalitarianism – a distinct lack of pomp, ceremony and hierarchy. They were effective at carrying out commands, although sometimes questioned their rulers’ decisions – especially by Britain’s generals. Finally in 1918, under the guidance of

their own General John Monash, the Australians were engaged in a number of key battles as the Allies drove the Germans back to eventual defeat. The Australian forces left countless positive impressions among the locals in France. When the French realise you are an Australian visitor, their warm response is instant. I remember visiting the Villers-Bretonneux memorial in 1999 with my wife. It was empty, apart from an elderly French woman, who laid a wreath there. When I asked in my halting French about this gesture, she responded in fluent English: “The Australians saved my father. I come here every day.” A life of value, spent in the service of other human beings. In remembering the men and women who sacrificed their lives 100 years ago, we must focus on

the legacy of love and friendship, rather than on the broad brushstrokes of strategy. I think war historian, Charles Bean, sums it up eloquently: “What these men did, nothing can alter now. The good and the bad, the greatness and smallness of their story will stand.” Remembering the Anzacs, 100 years on. I urge all Australians to visit, at least once in their lives, the memorial sites on the Western Front – throughout northern France and Flanders. Anzac Day 2015 marked 100 years after the Gallipoli landing of April 1915, and we are proud to remember the countless Australian sacrifices of World War I. Further Information Anzac France www.anzac-france.com Australian War Memorial www.awm.gov.au MAGAZINE

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Prehistory

Art of STONE THE MAGNIFICENT CAVE PAINTINGS OF LASCAUX HAVE BEEN REINTERPRETED IN A RICH, MULTIMEDIA FORMAT, NOW INCORPORATED INSIDE THE STUNNING NEW INTERNATIONAL CAVE ART CENTRE IN MONTIGNAC. IT OPENS NEXT YEAR.

t’s been one of the most acclaimed discoveries in prehistory ever to be made. One autumn day in 1940, four teenagers in Aquitaine’s lush, lovely Dordogne region stumbled across the caves now known as Lascaux. They discovered thousands of unspoiled Paleolithic-era paintings in five caves, depicting animals, symbols and human activity dating back over 20,000 years. They told their prehistory-buff teacher, and word quickly spread among archaeological circles. Lascaux became the subject of intense research, visitor interest and – eventually – restoration, as the site began to temporarily deteriorate from the excess carbon dioxide emitted by visitors. It closed to the public in 1963.

Top: The surrounding Dordogne region is packed with visitor attractions (photo © J Barbot). Above: While the meaning of Lascaux’s cave art remains a mystery, its undeniable beauty spans all cultures and ages (photo © Casson Mann).

In 1979, Lascaux was listed as a UNESCO heritage site and in 1983, the Dordogne General Council launched an ambitious programme of museographic reproduction. This culminated in a world tour of the highly detailed reproductions, the Lascaux International Exhibition, from 2012 – 2017.

A NEW FACE All of Lascaux’s paintings – including from The Hall of the Bulls, The Chamber of the Felines and other major areas – are now being superbly replicated at the International Cave Art Centre in Montignac. Due to open in 2016, the 800-square-

metre space features a recreation of the cave topography, achieved with laser scan technology. Visitors will be able to wander through the meandering, rocky spaces and admire the art replicas, along with original arrowheads and other objects found at Lascaux. They will come face to face with anatomical models of a Cro-Magnon family, and learn through a range of multimedia displays. The new museum marks a fitting new stage in the history of Lascaux, the draw-card for an estimated 300,000 visitors annually. Further Information Lascaux International Exhibition, International Cave Art Centre www.lascaux-expo.fr MAGAZINE

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Lyon’s striking Musée La Confluence, designed by Coop Himmelb(l)au (photo © Quentin Lafont).

WITH ITS FABULOUS CULINARY TRADITIONS AND DYNAMIC CULTURAL OFFERINGS, THE UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE-LISTED CITY OF LYON OFFERS A REMARKABLE HERITAGE AND AN EXCITING FUTURE. BY SUSAN GOUGH HENLY

yon has a cultural pedigree that spans Gallo-Roman, Medieval and Renaissance eras. Its architecture is a case in point. Looking to the future, the city’s trailblazing Confluence district at the tip of the Presqu’ile peninsula is the first World Wildlife Fund Sustainable Neighbourhood in France, and a lab for exciting contemporary architecture. One of the biggest town-planning development projects in Europe, 80

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ROAR of Lyon La Confluence’s holistic mix of green spaces and restored riverside quays is interspersed with energyefficient shops, restaurants, bars, businesses and housing. Its re-imagined structures include the La Sucriere sugar warehouse, and contemporary buildings such as the Green and Orange Cubes, designed by Paris-based architectural firm Jakob+MacFarlane. A highlight is the futuristic glass and steel Musée des Confluences (www. museedesconfluences.fr), which presents a

journey of discovery in seeking to understand the infinite richness of our planet’s civilisations. Two exciting festivals are based in La Confluence. The annual May Nuits Sonores (www.nuits-sonores.com/en) electronic music festival takes place throughout the neighbourhood, while the Lyon Biennale of Contemporary Art (www.labiennalelyon.com, September 2015 – January 2016) is centred at La Sucrière.

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Top: International memorial to the soldiers fallen across Nord–Pas de Calais during World War One (photo © Pouille). Below: Memorial to Australian soldiers in Flanders (photo © Milo-Profi).

A FINE PEDIGREE While La Confluence is a fascinating new page in Lyon’s history, the city has 2,000 years of architectural heritage to explore. Wandering around Lyon offers a fascinating journey through time, with 500 hectares of its city centre a UNESCO world heritage site. There is the ancient Roman amphitheatre and the neo-Byzantine Notre-Dame de Fourvière Basilica on Fourvière Hill; the Renaissance district of Vieux Lyon, with its secret passageways which were used to transport yarn and cloth; the modern city centre with its grand squares and fountains on Presqu’ile; and the former silk-workers’ Croix Rousse district, capital of the European silk trade. Today, the old workshops in village-like Croix-Rousse are home to hot young designers and a thriving alternative culture while a former convent is home to the School of Fine Arts and The Subsistances, a space for artistic creation.

SOAK UP THE SCENE Lyon’s cultural institutions are many and varied. Its Musée des Beaux Arts (www.mbalyon.fr) is second only to the Louvre in the range and scale of its holdings, including a particularly fine Impressionism collection. The Lumière Institute (www.institut-lumiere.org), housed in the building where the first-ever film was made, offers an aesthetic, scientific and historic trip around the invention of the cinematograph. France’s only Puppets of the World Museum (www.gadagne.musees.lyon.fr) offers one of the finest collections of puppets, sets and scripts in the hometown of the creator of Guignol, the most beloved puppet character in France. The art of fine living and great food are the pride of Lyon. There are no less than 15 restaurants with Michelin stars including Paul Bocuse’s l’Auberge du Pont de Collonges just outside the city, which this year celebrates 50 years of holding three Michelin stars. Even Lyon’s famous market, Les Halles de Lyon – Paul Bocuse has been renamed after its most famous son. Lyon’s other great foodie institutions include the inexpensive bouchons, which serve bistro food as well as snacks like charcuterie, often outside of normal eating hours. Further Information Lyon Tourism www.en.lyon-france.com Qantas and Emirates code-share several flights from Australia direct to Lyon. www.emirates.com.au

LAP OF LUXURY

Top: Summertime crowds at Place du Change, formerly Lyon’s stock exchange (photo © CM Perrin). Below: Classic architecture along the Saone River (photos © Tristan Deschamps).

A host of new hotels enrich the visitor experience. The luxury Fourviere Hotel (www.fourviere-hotel.com) in a former 19th century chapel features a garden enclosed by an arched cloister. The contemporary and minimalist Okko Hotel (www.okkohotels.com) is located in the busy Presqu’ile area while an ultramodern Novotel is found in the brand new Confluence Leisure and Business Centre.

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Paris match SHOPPING IN PARIS IS ONE OF LIFE’S GREAT PLEASURES, WHETHER YOU’RE GLIDING PAST THE LEFT BANK’S GLAM BOUTIQUES, OR ADMIRING CUTE-AS-A-BUTTON DISPLAYS IN THE MARAIS. ELLA LOMBARDI SETS OFF TO OUT-CHIC THOSE FASHIONABLE PARISIENNES.

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nlike so many cities worldwide, Parisians eschew the homogenised character of the shopping mall for the vastly greater joy of wandering among drop-dead gorgeous specialty boutiques. So it’s easy to see why France remains the world’s greatest fashion capital.

THE MARAIS The charms of one of Paris’ most historic areas, Le Marais, are no secret to visitors. Its two distinct areas – Haut Marais and Lower Marais – stretch across the 3rd and 4th arrondissements, bristling with eclectic fashion, antiques, fine art and unique jewellery pieces. Wind your way down the fashionable shopping and gallery streets of rue Charlot, rue Vieille du Temple, rue de Turenne and rue de Saintonge. For devotees of timeless chic, you’ll love the hand-picked collection of exclusively French men’s and women’s brands at FrenchTrotters (www.frenchtrotters.fr). The beautiful store also offers superb homewares, books and hard-to-find European cosmetics brands. Along rue des Francs-Bourgeois and rue des Rosiers, the bustling sidewalks are awash with upmarket French boutiques including IRO, Barbara Bui (www.barbarabui.com), Zadig and Voltaire (www.zadiget-voltaire.com) and The Kooples (www.thekooples.com) – a hit with the young Parisian style set. For beautiful sandals (men and women), head to K. Jacques (www.kjacques.fr) and for luxury shoes, it’s Garrice (garrice.com). Interrupt your shopping with a little art fix, around the magnificent arches of the Place des Vosges. Start at Modus Art Gallery (www.modus-gallery.com) and work your way around the square before heading to Almine Rech Gallery (64 rue de Turenne 3rd) a must-visit thanks to its historical mainstays and cutting-edge influencers. Drop in for a coffee and a browse at concept store Merci Merci (www.merci-merci.com), where profits from an always-interesting selection of clothing, furniture, homewares, stationery and giftwear go to disadvantaged children. Clockwise from far left: At the Agnés B spring/summer 2015 catwalk show (photo © Agnés B); from the Dior autumn/winter 2015 collection (photo © Christian Dior); contemporary art and classic space at Modus Art Gallery (photo © Modus); original ceramics at Astier de Villatte (photo © Astier de Villatte).

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Travelling through

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From top: Boutique in the covered arcade Galerie Vivienne, in Paris’ Right Bank (photo © Atout France/Nathalie Baetens); minimal styling at boutique Woch Dom in the Pigalle (photo © Atout France/Jean-François Tripelon-Jarry).

SAINT-GERMAIN-DES-PRÉS AND LATIN QUARTER On the southern side of the Seine River, the Left Bank has added an extra element of glamour since its days as a bohemian intellectual hangout in the early part of the 20th century. Visitors now come for the gallery browsing, luxurious homewares, and a mindboggling array of antiques stores that bump up against luxury boutiques such as Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior (www.dior.com) and Sonia Rykiel. Start at Boulevard Saint-Germain, where you’ll discover designers such as Gerard Darel (www.gerarddarel.com) and Alain Manoukian, and take time on rue de Rennes, rue du Dragon, rue Bonaparte and rue du Four, bursting with beautiful boutiques. Head to Carven (www.carven.com) for feminine, well-priced fashion with couturequality craftsmanship and Maje (fr.maje.com) is where you can stock up on long lasting cute casuals with a flirty edge. Agnès B offers Parisian chic at its best – for men and women. On Rue de Grenelle, fashionistas flock for shoes including those trademarked red soles of Christian Louboutin, as well as Bruno Frisoni and Sergio Rossi. A world of beauty just for men – from cosmetics to fragrances, grooming and skin care products – awaits at Comptoir de l’homme (www.comptoirdelhomme.com). If you want to indulge then visit Sabbia Rosa on rue des Saints-Pères. Hanging off the shoulders of celebrities the world over, Sabbia’s exquisite silk slips, corsets, knickers and bras are unrivalled.

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Citadines Apart’hotel offers a unique stay concept in the heart of major cities supported with a wide choice of personalised hotel-style services. Staying with Citadines offers you flexibility and independence. Want to cook your favourite meal? Stay for a night? A month? It’s your choice. Experience independent city living in more than 60 Citadines properties in the world, including 30 properties in France (16 in Paris).

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Citadines Apart’hotel is managed by The Ascott Limited, a member of CapitaLand. It is the largest international serviced residence owner-operator with more than 200 properties in over 80 cities spanning more than 20 countries across Asia Pacific, Europe and the Gulf region. It operates three awardwinning brands Ascott, Citadines and Somerset. MAGAZINE

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From top: Les Deux Magots in Saint-Germain-dés-Pres (photo © Atout France/Benoît Roland); Original denim from a recent collection by artisan Parisian denim label, Renhsen (photo © Renhsen).

LOUVRE-TUILERIES/ FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ/ PALAIS ROYAL If you wander along rue St Honoré and its elegant continuation, the rue du Faubourg St Honoré, you are bound to bump into a few famous faces who make this their first stop in Paris. A block back from the Tuileries Gardens, you’ll find the biggest names in fashion, from Yves Saint Laurent to Givenchy, Prada, Valentino, Hermès, Chloe, Burberry, Gucci, Michael Kors and more. But even if the €10,000 handbags make your eyes water, there’s plenty to satisfy more budget-conscious tastes. Astier de Villatte (www.astierdevillatte. com) is full of beautiful Parisian ceramics. No two are the same, and Cate Blanchett has been spotted buying up their wares. Designer Anne Fontaine (www.annefontaine.com) created her first elegantly simple, hand-stitched collection of white women’s blouses in 1993. She’s since expanded into separates and flirty dresses, making 500 new pieces each season. At JAR Parfums (14 rue de Castiglione), owned by the ever discreet jeweller Joel A Rosenthal, you’ll find just six heady perfumes on display in the tiny, velvet-lined shop and around the corner, lovers of luxury travel pieces will swoon over Goyard (www.goyard. com), whose stunning luggage was sought by France’s aristocracy and has been made here since 1853. Men have plenty of options in this area, including Charvet (www.charvet.com), where the legendary shirtmaker’s clients have included Marcel Proust, Charles de Gaulle and John F Kennedy. There’s also Christian Lacroix for something a little more colourful, Just off rue Saint-Honoré, in the area between the Louvre and Opera, you’ll find vintage haute couture at the city’s number one purveyor of high-end vintage fashion, Didier Ludot (www.didierludot.fr). Think Chanel suits from the ’30s or ’40s.

CANAL SAINT-MARTIN With its relaxed terraced cafes, iron footbridges and the Napoleon-era waterway featured in the film Amélie, the Canal Saint-Martin has become a drawcard for trendy Parisians.

The main shopping streets are rue Beaurepaire, rue Yves Toudic, rue de Marseille and rue de Lancry, where you’ll find a swathe of well-known names. But also worth a stop is Centre Commercial (www.centrecommercial. cc). The founders’ Made in France movement sees it stock labels such as Bleu de Paname, Repetto and St James. La Trésorerie (latresorerie.fr) is new to the scene and one of the loveliest design shops in Paris. It focuses on eco-friendly European-made home goods, including fabulous take home tea towels. Fashion cognoscenti flock to Boutique

Renhsen (www.renhsen.com) for perfectly cut jeans in high-tech fabrics, along with fashion-forward separates. Balibaris (www. balibaris.com) is just for blokes. Stocking scarves, shirts, jumpers, elegant trousers and T-shirts featuring great film moments, most of the pieces are handmade in France. Finally, a Canal visit should include a stop at Anne Hoguet’s Musée de l’Éventail (www.annehoguet.fr) inside a 19th century apartment, where her family has been making fans since 1805. Here, Anne works on fans for fashion and the stage, with more than 1,000 historic pieces on display.

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Couture

Cool CRAFT A QUIET ACHIEVER WHO HAS SHUNNED THE LIMELIGHT, AUSTRALIAN DESIGNER AND LONG-TIME PARIS RESIDENT MARTIN GRANT IS DRAWING ACCOLADES FOR HIS IMPECCABLY TAILORED FASHIONS – AND A NEW UNIFORM COLLECTION FOR QANTAS. BY SUSAN GOUGH HENLY

he sleek bronze sign is attached to a discreet 17th century building in the 3rd arrondissement. This is the atelier of Melbourneborn couturier Martin Grant, who has been based in Paris for more than 20 years, and who has kindly agreed to speak with us here. “I feel at home here, and I love the village atmosphere of the Haut Marais,” Grant says. Fine-boned and slightly built, with piercing blue eyes and a mild manner, Martin Grant is unassuming to a fault but his elegant creations reveal a sophisticated interpretation of the female body as a sculptural form. His clients include Cate Blanchett, Lee Radziwill and Juliette Binoche.

GROUNDED IN THE CLASSICS There is a refined elegance to Grant’s designs, whose key inspirations come from three important Paris-based designers. “From the age of 10, I remember poring over the book Dior in Vogue. After that it was Yves Saint-Laurent and Balenciaga.” “I like to keep things simple and classic. My designs are all about pure lines. I use minimal styling with rich fabrics, which give a slight touch of the baroque. Everything must be pared back for maximum beauty.” 88

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ESSENCE OF FRENCH STYLE Grant is fascinated by the paradox of French style. “The French do a terrific job of mixing the austere and the baroque. Just think of a French chateau. Outside it’s all clean lines and pure simplicity, while inside there is a cacophony of antiques, tapestry and paintings. In my own creations I combine sensual, voluptuous forms within a simple framework… always keeping in mind that I want to show off a woman’s body to its best. “I work directly on the mannequin. What is important is that the fabric always informs the piece. There is a huge difference in the draping qualities of, say, heavy wool or silk georgette so a hands-on approach is essential.” The technique of working on the mannequin dates back to 1930s haute couture. Grant loves Paris for its history, exquisite culture and architecture, and its proximity to everything in Europe. “It’s just a jump to the UK, Italy, Spain, and Greece. And even when the

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Clockwise from above: Grant’s head-turning Qantas uniforms (photo © Qantas); the designer at his Paris atelier; two looks from the spring-summer 2015 collection (photos © Martin Grant Paris).

weather is grey and miserable, the light stone of the buildings still gives everything a warm glow.” And, of course, Paris is still the centre of the fashion world. “New York is for sportswear, Milan is all about the business and London is finding its creativity again, but Paris has always had access to the artisans… the specialists in the métiers or crafts of feathers, beading and leather, for instance. The French pride themselves on these crafts.”

FRENCHIFIED: THE NEW QANTAS UNIFORMS In creating Qantas’ new uniforms, Grant looked at the airline’s history, then pulled back to consider tailoring and the need for the uniforms to stand the test of time. “I took my main inspiration from the Qantas logo – the red triangle and flying kangaroo are both powerful images for Australians. I created pink from the red and

white logo, which I see as a contemporary colour palette with a couture reference. It was a slight nod to Yves Saint-Laurent, who designed the Qantas uniform with the colourful kangaroo print in the 1980s.

NEW SHOWROOM Grant has a brand-new showroom for private clients on the entire second floor of his atelier. It is a light-filled Parisian apartment with parquetry floors, big mirrors and large windows. You can also buy his clothes at select boutiques worldwide and the Les Suites Paris concept store, with its curated collection of haute couture and ready-to-wear clothes. Further Information Martin Grant Paris/Showroom 10 Rue Charlot 75003 Paris www.martingrantparis.com MAGAZINE

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Bliss

PAMPERED in Provence ICONIC BEAUTY BRAND, L’OCCITANE, IS SO PASSIONATE ABOUT THE HERITAGE OF ITS ALL-NATURAL INGREDIENTS IT EVEN OFFERS BESPOKE TOURS TO THE SOURCE. WE TOOK A PEEK INTO THE COMPANY’S GUEST EXPERIENCE IN PROVENCE.

t’s sunset in the lavender, with hedgerows looming emerald and the scent of summer – and wartime – heavy in the air. It’s the opening chapter of The Lavender Keeper, set in Provence and Paris in 1942, and readers are about to be plunged into a tumultuous world of love, intrigue and treachery. If the book was a hit when it came out in 2013, then the landscape that inspired it continues to be a fittingly timeless attraction. It’s been immortalised in countless art forms, including the riveting Jean de Florette film of 1986, Peter Mayle’s bestselling memoir A Year in Provence, and the art of Cézanne, Van Gogh and Renoir.

GROUNDED IN NATURE This lyrical landscape also feeds the ingredients contained in each alluring product by beauty company L’Occitane since its inception, in 1976. The region’s lavender oil is used to scent soaps, oils and lotions; almond oil softens and pampers the skin; roses are for suppleness and that peerless perfume. The brand soon began using equally authentic and deliciously effective ingredients from further afield. Shea butter Top right: Pampering services at the L’Occitane flagship spa. Right: Fields of lavender in Provence (photo © Michel Angot). 90

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The Lavender Keeper, by Fiona MIntosh (www.fionamcintosh.com).

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Clockwise from top left: balloon gliding down in front of the Le Couvent des Minimes; extracting pure almond oil; Inset: L’Occitane’s famous hand cream, lavender hand lotion and almond supple skin oil.

from Burkina Faso is just one secret behind their famous hand cream, while immortelle flower from Corsica – with its repair-enhancing antioxidant properties – is so effective there is a whole skincare collection devoted to the tiny yellow bloom. For more than two decades, L’Occitane has sourced these ingredients in a highly ethical way designed to benefit local communities, to which it now offers even more support through its L’Occitane Foundation (since 2006).

TRAVELS TO THE SOURCE For visitors, the brand’s bespoke travel experiences bring that story to life more than any corporate annual report could do. First off there’s the flagship store and workshop, where you can take a tour to see how the oils are distilled and the products blended. Then there’s the spa, set inside the achingly beautiful Le Couvent des Minimes convent, the epitome of rustic Provençal architecture and nature-filled surrounds. It’s just been extensively

refurbished, and stands alongside L’Occitane spas in eight other countries worldwide as a category leader. L’Occitane also operates balloon tours, letting visitors glide over the countryside, and bespoke tours for those who prefer their feet on the ground. Don’t go searching for their itinerary online, though – each tour is tailored to participants’ needs. Together with locally based Kairos Travel, longtime brand partners, the tours cover everything from exclusive growers to fine foods and historical landmarks. Fiona McIntosh, Australian author of popular historical fiction novels including The Lavender Keeper and Nightingale, spent two weeks in Provence and Paris last northern summer, joined by 20 personal guests. Their guide was Philip Haslett of Kairos, who made a lasting impression. “Philip was amazingly resourceful. Nothing was impossible. He managed to get us access into private lavender fields almost exactly where I’d located my story,” McIntosh recalls.

Other highlights included the vistas of unsullied Provençal landscapes, a VIP tour of L’Occitane’s factory (where the products are made and shipped worldwide), and dining under the stars at a château while a celebrity chef cooked every course. The group also had an equally personal tour of Paris, with sights again selected to recall scenes from McIntosh’s book. In an industry peppered with claims to ‘authenticity’ and ‘corporate social responsibility’, the L’Occitane on-ground experience in Provence takes brand storytelling to a rather new dimension. Further Information L’Occitane au.loccitane.com Unique Provence by Kairos Travel unique-provence.com

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Southern

Monaco

Never say NEVER again

DUST OFF YOUR DIAMONDS AND PACK YOUR HIPPEST THREADS – MONACO AND ITS WEALTH OF HAUTE CUISINE, DESIGNER BOUTIQUES AND CULTURAL EVENTS ARE A HAVEN FOR THE GLAMOUR-MINDED. BY RUBY BOUKABOU

xtravagant yachts, James Bond casino sets, luxury hotels and a monarchy brimming with stylish royals – from the late, much-loved Princess Grace, to the globetrotting Prince Albert II

and Princess Charlene with their baby twins, born last December. It may sound fictional but it’s actually a place, and it’s called Monaco. There’s really nowhere in Europe quite like this principality, with its fascinating history and dramatic coastal setting. Sharing three borders with France, the fourth being the glistening Mediterranean Sea, Monaco is 30 km from Nice airport and a mere 2.02 square kilometres. The principality is a royal experience to visit. Take the Monaco – Le Grand Tour opentopped bus to get your bearings, (monaco-

legrandtour.com) or explore on foot. If you’ve already done your share of dashing around Europe, perhaps this is the time to pamper yourself with a much calmer pace. While there are very decent two-star hotels, why not splash out in five-star style at Hôtel Hermitage, the Hôtel de Paris, the Hôtel Métropole Monte-Carlo or the Monte-Carlo Beach Hotel. A swim, manicure, blow dry and massage should soon coax out any remaining jetlag and stress.

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Clockwise from top left: paraglider above Monte Carlo Bay Hotel (photo © Monaco Tourism); Monte Carlo Casino (photo © S Kiabski); medieval ramparts at the Prince’s Palace of Monaco, once a Genoese fortress (photo © Monaco Tourism).

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From top left: Stark yet serene interiors at Nobu (photo © Fairmont Monte Carlo); chef Marcel Ravin preparing dishes at the Monte-Carlo Bay Hotel & Resort (photo © Monte-Carlo SBM); fine dining at Ducasse’s Louis XV (photo © Pierre Monetta).

FEASTS OF FANCY Monegasque menus are influenced by both French and Italian cuisine. The chefs are renowned for their fusion of classic tastes with creative twists. It’s Mediterranean cuisine with the freshest of produce, especially in terms of seafood. A Michelin star speaks for itself at the nautically themed Le Vistamar on the eighth floor of the Hôtel Hermitage in Square Beaumarchais (www.montecarloresort.com). Taste the catch of the day while the lights of Monte Carlo sparkle below. To experience one of the world’s grandest dining establishments, try Le Louis XV by Alain Ducasse inside the Hôtel de Paris. No risk of running out of wine – there are 400,000 bottles in the cellar. The dreamlike décor is best savoured with the a la carte menu of fresh seafood and meats, cooked to perfection and served with baby vegetables and delicate sauces. Don’t skip the baba au rhum dessert, with your choice of rum and lightly whipped cream.

Fancy a touch of Zen? Yoshi, at the Hotel Métropole (www.metropole.com), is the restaurant of Japanese chef Takeo Yamazaki under the brand of international restaurateur, Joël Robuchon. Deluxe bentos, sushi and sashimi are available, as well as a full and tasty Japanese menu. Or try Nobu (www.noburestaurants. com/index.php/monte-carlo) from chef Nobu Matsuhisa at Fairmont Monte Carlo, where you can actually glimpse France, Italy and Monaco while sucking down oysters with special Nobu sauce and succulent sashimi. Alternatively, for a Chinese fix in a luxurious setting, Song Qi (www.song-qi.mc) is the restaurant of Monegasque restaurateur Riccardo Giraudi and renowned Hong Konger, Alan Yau. Share squid, Peking duck and honeyroasted pork over a lunch or relaxed dinner. In summertime, before or after dinner, bliss out on the beach with a cocktail at La Note Bleue (www.lanotebleue.mc), The Blue Note, with lounge music and a live jazz band.

Jetlagged and in need of a midnight feed? Head to Intempo at the Meridien Beach Plaza (www.lintempo.com/en), serving up its own brand of contemporary flair 24/7. It’s colourful, creative and fresh. Wine, cooking and mixology classes are also on offer. For delicious Tuscan-inspired cuisine, try La Trattoria (open seasonally), also by Alain Ducasse, at Sporting Monte-Carlo. Fish soups, freshly made pasta, delicious pizzas and whole roasted sea bass are favourites – best married with fine wines and completed with a Tiramisu (en.sportingmontecarlo.com). If the words caviar, truffles and foie gras awaken your taste buds, the famous Blue Bay Restaurant at Monte-Carlo Bay Hotel & Resort is for you (www.montecarlosbm.com). Wild duckling, lamb from the Pyrénées and a Creole black pudding are also on the French and Caribbean-influenced menu offered by chef Marcel Ravin, and recently earned him a Michelin star. MAGAZINE

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From top left: The Rolex Masters in full swing, and the Monte Carlo Beach Club (photo © Monte-Carlo SBM); the futuristic Monte-Carlo Pavilion stores (photo © Monte-Carlo SBM); the Oceanographic Museum viewed from the air (photo © Monaco Tourism).

MUSEUMS AND MORE There’s no risk of getting bored in Monaco with its museums, opera and sporting events. Monaco’s most famous museum is the Oceanographic Museum (www.oceano.mc), founded in 1910 by Prince Albert I and once run by none other than Jacques-Yves Cousteau. Dive in for an entire afternoon of nautical knowledge with a library, aquarium, shark lagoon and much more. The New National Museum of Monaco (www.nmnm.mc) has heritage and contemporary themed exhibitions all year round. The museum’s buildings themselves are gorgeous, with a large staircase, stained-glass windows, mosaics, columns and natural lighting. Monaco also offers a year-round line-up of compelling events. Following on the heels of the Monte-Carlo Rolex Masters tennis cup in April is the Formula 1 Grand Prix (acm.mc) in May; various spectator seats can be bought for a range of budgets. The famous race has run since 1929, when Prince Pierre inaugurated it with a lap of honour in a Torpedo Voisin driven by Charles 96

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Faroux, the course director. In 2015, electric cars will feature in the program for the first time. The Monte Carlo Casino (montecarlocasino. com) is obviously a classic must. Swan along the marble pavements, order a martini (shaken not stirred) and find your inner Bond. Other annual highlights include the yearround programmes at the Monte-Carlo Opera (www.opera.mc).

Coming up in July is a unique co-production between the Monte-Carlo Philharmonic Orchestra, Monte-Carlo Opera, Tokyo Ballet and Béjart Ballet Lausanne (Switzerland), featuring choreography by Maurice Béjart set to Beethoven’s Ninth Symphony. Further Information Visit Monaco www.visitmonaco.com

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FRANCE River Cruising

The Rhône less travelled. FLY FREE*

To cruise through France’s Bordeaux region and along the Rhône is to choose a more tranquil route of discovery. Here, stunning landscapes unfold and medieval walls whisper tales of historical intrigue. Here, rich soil and a superb climate nurture produce that tastes like nothing else on earth. Here, APT’s luxury river ships glide at a relaxed pace over a path less travelled.

Bordeaux & Rhône River Cruise 18 Days from $12,395* per person, twin share

P EXCLUSIVE! Choose from a wide range of suite options including Panoramic Balcony Suites# P INCLUDED – Cultural experiences in up to 15 towns, villages and cities, accompanied by local guides P INCLUDED – Europe’s finest onboard dining –La Chaîne des Rôtisseurs member P INCLUDED – All onboard meals and beverages^, sightseeing, tipping, transfers, onboard Wi-Fi and port charges P INCLUDED – Freedom of Choice Inclusions and APT’s exclusive Sightseeing Experiences

ORDER YOUR FREE BROCHURE & DVD TODAY

CALL 1300 229 804 www.aptouring.com.au/Europe2016 or see your travel agent

*Conditions apply. Prices are per person (pp) twin share. Prices are correct as at 27 February 2015 but may fluctuate if surcharges, fees, taxes or currency change. Price based on EUBCRPP18: 23 March 2016 (Cat. E). A limited number of all SuperDeal offers are available on select itineraries, suites and departures. Book by 31 October 2015. Airfare offers are in economy class with Singapore Airlines (or an airline of APT’s choosing) and are subject to availability of airline booking class. If the airline booking class is unavailable surcharges will apply. Flights must be booked by APT. Airline schedules are subject to change without notice and APT is not liable for any additional costs incurred due to airline schedule changes. A non-refundable 1st deposit of $1,000 pp due within 7 days, a 2nd deposit of $2,000 pp is dues by 31 October 2015. Final payment for is due 100 days prior to departure. All air is ticketed upon receipt of the first deposit. Any changes made after ticketing, may incur an amendment or cancellation fee. FLY FREE: Includes air taxes up to $950 pp, air taxes may vary for each departure point and airline. Valid on a selection of Europe cruise/tours departing in 16. †Complimentary beverages exclude French Champagne, premium spirits and selected wines. #Selected suites only. ^Selected tours only. Australian Pacific Touring Pty Ltd ABN 44 004 684 619. ATAS accreditation # A10825. APT1960 MAGAZINE

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Nice

Southern SENSATION SEA, SUN AND AN UNFORGETTABLE COSMOPOLITAN VIBE ARE A DRAWCARD OF NICE ANY TIME OF THE YEAR. BY RUBY BOUKABOU

hile Paris may be the culture capital of France, when it clouds over or the pace gets too frantic, head south to Nice. Here you’ll find all the culture you’ll want, but also sun, sea and a chilled-out vibe. The most stressful decision you’ll have to make will be choosing one of the 94 flavours of ice cream and sorbet at Fenocchio (www.fenocchio.fr). Punctuate beach trips with museum outings that give Paris a run for its money, especially since you’re in Matisse country (www.musee-matissenice.org). Mingle with the locals and work on your French at the many markets in colourful Cours Saleya: flower, spice, flea, fish and fruit and veg markets. By night? There’s L’Opéra de Nice, the Casino and hundreds of delicious dining options.

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Above: Nice’s iconic Promenade des Anglais (photo © OTCN/A Issock). Below: Nice’s new Coulée Verte, or green corridor, is making the city even more stroll-friendly (photo © OTCN).

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Above: Selection of sun-drenched Niçoise flavours. Right: Admiring wares at the Cours Saleya (photos © OTCN/J Kelagopian).

SAVOUR THE FLAVOUR

IF THE SHOE FITS…

The cuisine Niçoise is Mediterranean, zesty and oh-so-fresh. Besides the famous Niçoise salad, the specialities to try include bagnat, pissaladière, socca and stockfisch, washed down with a glass of Bellet wine from the local vineyards. Socca, a type of crepe made from flour, chick peas and local olive oil, can be found at the old town markets and other establishments, such as Chez Pippo www.chezpipo.fr.

Stroll the romantic Old Town and stock up on typical local produce to take home, such as olive oil, wines and Herbes de Provence. Then hit the city centre, which has a fashion zone for all budgets so you can get a French twist to your look.

For fine dining, be transported by the inventions of Michelin-starred Keisuke Matsushima, who dishes up exquisite French gastronomy with a Japanese twist (www.keisukematsushima.com). Or for more hardy, traditional local dishes, head to Escalinada (www.escalinada. fr) or the authentic, family-friendly Lou Balico, which holds the Cuisine Nissarde label assuring top-quality local cuisine (www.loubalico.com).

The capital for southern French shopping, Nice boutiques offer the perfect combination of sophisticated French (you’ll find Anne Fontaine, Dior and Chanel) with casual, comfortable seaside attire. Grab some Made in Nice Maison Massena trousers for men, stocked at La Fabric (www.lafabricshop.com).

GOOD NIGHT If you’re attending the Nice Jazz Festival, make a theme of it and book into Hotel Ellington (www.ellington-nice.com), inspired by The Duke, set in the 1950s and with a jazz theme

throughout. For an avant-garde experience, check into Hi Hotel (www.hi-hotel.net), with its original, fun room design and panoramic views. The design of the Hôtel Nice Excelsior (www.excelsiornice.com) has a travel theme paired against a natural palette (think ochre, Provençal green and Mediterranean blue), each room train, plane, automobile or boat-themed. Best time to visit? For jazz lovers, travel in July for the Nice Jazz Festival (www.nicejazzfestival.fr). To see the city in a state of celebration, come in February for the colourful Nice Carnival (www.nicecarnaval.com/en). But really, there’s plenty to enjoy all year round. Further Information www.nicetourism.com

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Combine easy to moderate cycling with river, canal or island cruising. Ideal for partners of different abilities, unpack once, come ‘home’ each night to a wonderful meal and a comfortable cabin with your own bathroom.

HOTEL BARGE CANAL CANAL CRUISES CRUISES

Canal or small river cruises. Quality cabins, each with own bathroom. Onboard chef with regional cuisines and wines. Daily coach excursions to vineyards, chateaux, galleries, gardens. Bicycles available onboard.

WALKING HOLIDAYS

Small group guided walks on carefully selected trails, some with pack animals to carry refreshments and picnics. Private chateaux and charming hotels all with pools, all with a passion for regional cuisine and local wines.

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Clockwise from top left: Antibes’ spectacular multipurpose Théâtre Anthéa (photo © City of Antibes); public art by Jaume Plensa (photo © City of Antibes); yacht racing at the Voiles d’Antibes (photo © Patrick Hanez/Antibes Tourist Office); at Jazz à Juan (photo © Office de tourisme et des congrès d’Antibes).

Antibes Juan-lesAll Pins that JAZZ

A PICTURE-PERFECT COASTAL SETTING, CULTURAL RICHES AND A CIVILISED AIR MAKE ANTIBES JUAN-LES-PINS A SOUTHERN FRENCH DESTINATION TO REMEMBER. BY RUBY BOUKABOU

ast of Cannes and west of Nice lies a small town that is charming and chic, but authentic and non-flashy. The dual township of Antibes Juanles-Pins boasts fine sandy beaches, magnificent ports and all the appealing flavours of the south of France, being located in the sunny and sensational Côte d’Azur. Picasso was seduced by Antibes, and worked here daily in autumn 1946. The waterfront Musée Picasso (www.antibes-juanlespins.com/ les-musees/picasso) is dedicated to his genius, with dozens of works by the grand master and many of his contemporaries. The site itself has Greek and Roman foundations, and was a château in the Middle Ages. For an immersion in jet-set glamour, visit the mythic hotel-to-the-stars, Hôtel du Cap-EdenRoc (www.hotel-du-cap-eden-roc.com) or Hotel Belles Rives (www.bellesriveshotelantibes.com), which has won awards for having the ‘best’ terrace in Europe. Stellar dining choices abound, including the Michelin-starred Les Pêcheurs, Le Bacon or Le Figuier de Saint-Esprit. For entertainment, Anthéa (www.anthea-antibes.fr), with its imposing structure facing Fort Carré offers a diverse programme of theatre, music and opera.

FOR THE DIARY Jazz à Juan music festival – 10-19 July Created in 1960, Jazz à Juan is today the largest jazz festival in Europe. Experience a vast style of jazz genres, from popular to niche, and young talent to jazz heavyweights. www.jazzajuan.com Salon des Antiquaires (Antibes Art Fair) – Every April - May Discover antiques, jewels, designer furniture and 20th century art at one of the most prestigious art fairs of Europe, held every April – May. www.salon-antiquaires-antibes.com Voiles d’Antibes – Every June For 20 years, sailboat enthusiasts have met annually to race and admire these handsome boats. A party atmosphere takes over in the Village des Voiles and in the Old Town. www.voilesdantibes.com Further Information Antibes Juan-les-Pins Tourist Office www.antibesjuanlespins.com

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THE CROWN JEWEL IN A NECKLACE OF MELANESIAN ISLANDS, SCATTERED IN AN ARC OFF NORTHEASTERN AUSTRALIA, NEW CALEDONIA BRIMS WITH TROPICAL RICHES AND COMPELLING ADVENTURES FOR TRAVELLERS OF ALL INTERESTS. BY SOPHIE IBBOTSON

he earliest inhabitants of New Caledonia must have realised they’d found heaven on earth: that’s why they kept the secret to themselves for so long. Word is well and truly out, however; and the extraordinary beauty of the landscapes, the richness of nature and the local ingredients now inspire travellers, chefs and designers alike. 102

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Though New Caledonia is just 2,000km northeast of Sydney, and direct flights are just three or four hours from Sydney or Melbourne, and two hours from Brisbane, when you step off the plane in Noumea, you are transported into a completely different world. Long home to a small French community, New Caledonia is a charming sliver of France right on Australia’s doorstep.

Yet it is also a Pacific island paradise with unique tribal cultures, a subtropical climate, unending snow-white beaches and the world’s largest nature preserve, Le Parc Naturel de la Mer de Corail. Your every need is catered to in the world-class resort hotels and spas, superb restaurants and bars. As the islands attract numerous international sporting events, there’s a programme of activities year-round.

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Top: New Caledonia is home to the world’s largest coastal lagoon, a UNESCO World Heritage site (photo © Martial Dosdane). Left: Discover New Caledonia’s rich native Kanak culture (photo © Stéphane Ducandas).

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NAVIGATING NOUMEA Most visitors come and stay in New Caledonia’s thriving capital, Noumea, where a huge range of great and smaller hotels competes for your attention. At the opulent Chateau Royal Beach Resort and Spa (www.complexechateauroyal.nc), your tensions and concerns will drift away on the waters of the Aqua Royal Spa, and you can indulge yourself with essential oil massages, facials and other beauty treatments. The luxury is livelier at Le Meridien Noumea (www.lemeridiennoumea.com), where you and your family can soak up an atmosphere that blends French sophistication with the laid-back ways of this Pacific tropical island. A toy train carries passengers between the hotel and Port Moselle, and you can enjoy not only the hotel’s beach but also its landscaped tropical gardens. For an authentic experience, especially in the north and the Loyalty Islands, why not stay with a local family? It’s possible to arrange a home stay with members of the island’s Kanak community. They are fabulously warm and informative hosts, and the unique experience will be one to treasure long after you leave. You can also get a feel for Noumea by trying traditional New Caledonian dishes at Le Petit Café (www.auptitcafe.nc), or L’Assiette du Cagou or l’Edzen, which offer island ingredients and a French influence. MAGAZINE

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SWIM, SAIL, SNORKEL, SUNBATHE You don’t come to New Caledonia just to stay in the city, however: there’s far too much else to see. Active visitors and those with an interest in marine life will want to get beneath the waves to snorkel or dive on the reefs. The Bay of Prony, with its naturally occurring stalagmite, and the corals of Tenia, attract not only dolphins and sea turtles but also manta rays and even humpback whales. If you prefer to keep your feet dry, turn to the Northern Province of Grande Terre and take a hike to the Heart of Voh, made famous by aerial photographer Yann Arthus-Bertrand. The mangroves that comprise this northern area are rich in indigenous flora and fauna, and are easily explored on horseback during a daylong trek. The north offers all manner of activities for families, from geo-caching and mountain biking to kayaking and rock climbing. The bird and wildlife watching here is also second to none. New Caledonia has become quite a hub for international sporting events, so you might want to schedule your visit to coincide with a date in the sporting calendar. The Great Lagoon 104

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Regatta is a three-day sailing challenge that takes place in June and draws competitors and spectators from around the world. The postrace parties are legendary. The Professional Windsurfing Association (PWA) hosts the Noumea Dream Cup, a leg of the World Cup Circuit, each November. Less well-known is the annual rodeo in the southern province of Bourail, which happens over a long weekend. Rodeo riders compete on the backs of both bulls and horses, and it’s an amazing, adrenalin-fuelled affair.

Top: There is always another pristine beach around the corner, just waiting to be discovered. Below: Experience New Caledonia’s diverse underwater world (photos this page © Arno Photographie).

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WE ARE HANDSOME With a natural blue and turquoise colour palette, set off by white sands and palm trees, it’s little surprise that New Caledonia has inspired swimwear designers at We Are Handsome to develop a vibrant new range. The brand also picked the islands as the location for their Euphoria campaign. wearehandsome.com

Top: Relax and enjoy the freshest cuisine, beachside at the Isle of Pines (photo © Oliver Strewe). Inset: Shoot from the We Are Handsome Euphoria campaign (photo © Sebastian Kriete).

SAVOUR THE FLAVOUR Wherever you go in New Caledonia, and whatever you choose to do, be sure to try some of the islands’ delicious cuisine, which subtly blends the local ingredients of this tropical paradise with the sophisticated dishes of France. The markets are packed full with seasonal fruits and vegetables, and wandering among the stalls you’ll appreciate the freshness and natural fragrance of everything that’s for sale. Don’t forget the wonderful seafood either: the chances are that it’s been caught by fishermen just hours ago. Justine Schofield, of Channel Ten TV hit Everyday Gourmet, was so wowed by the food on the islands that she’s made it her mission to share the flavours further afield, creating a menu of mouth-watering New Caledoniainspired recipes that you can cook easily at home – including poisson cru (South Pacific citrus marinated fish), and bougna (chicken, plantain, root vegetables and coconut milk wrapped in banana leaves). See www.haveitall. com.au/justine-schofield. Many such dishes are on the menu at the Sand Beach Grill at the Sheraton New Caledonia Deva Resort & Spa (www.sheratonnewcaledoniadeva.com), and

at La Terrasse, the Hilton Noumea’s fantastic fusion restaurant (www.hilton.com). New Caledonia’s hoteliers are continually raising their game, and some major international chains have recently opened luxurious properties on the islands. The striking Sheraton Deva Resort was launched on the western coast of New Caledonia in August 2014 and welcomes guests to its romantic beachside bungalows and relaxing spa. On one side are the mountains, and on the other the UNESCO-listed reef: you won’t find a more tranquil spot. Also recommended is the Hilton Noumea, Hilton’s first venture in the islands. Inspired by the French Riviera, the architects have designed an idyllic set of residences where you’ll feel right at home, if only home were overlooking Anse Vata Beach. Not to be outdone, nearby Le Meridien has been recently refurbished and boasts a vast outdoor pool surrounded by tropical palms; large, light rooms with sea views; and numerous fine dining options, including the beachside barbecue, Le Fare. Further Information New Caledonia Tourism www.haveitall.com.au www.facebook.com/newcaledoniatourism MAGAZINE

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Fifty shades of BLUE

TAHITI’S IDYLLIC LOCATION IN THE HEART OF THE SOUTH PACIFIC MEANS IT IS JUST FAR ENOUGH AWAY FROM AUSTRALIA TO KEEP IT BLISSFULLY UNSPOILT AND TRANQUIL. BY PERSEPHONE NICHOLAS

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its overwater bungalows and luxury hotels as its distinctive French flavour and the warmth and creative flair of the local people. The local motto is ‘aita pea pea,’ (loosely translated as ‘don’t worry about it’) and, cocooned in the comfort of Tahiti’s world-class resorts, you’ll soon start to feel you don’t have a care in the world.

AMAZING ARCHIPELAGOS Tahiti and her islands are scattered across an ocean surface area that is about the same size as Europe. The islands themselves make up

just 4,000 sq km spread over 118 islands, which are divided into five groups or archipelagos. Most international visitors fly into the capital, Papeete located on Tahiti in the Society Islands, which comprises the Windward and the Leeward Islands. It’s a short ferry ride from Tahiti to the enchanting island of Moorea, with its picture-perfect lagoons set against a stunning mountainous backdrop. Bora Bora, the ultimate destination for honeymooners, and Taha’a, the most sacred island in the South Pacific, are here too. The Marquesas to the north are as spectacular as they are remote (flying time is around

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InterContinental Bora Bora Resort & Thalasso Spa, with Mount Otemanu in the background (photo © InterContinental Bora Bora Resort & Thalasso Spa).

three hours from the Society Islands). Renowned for their majestic waterfalls and mountains, some of these islands have remained virtually untouched since European exploration and enjoy their own Marquesan dialect and particularly colourful local culture. The Tuamotu islands in the centre of Tahiti include Rangiroa, Manihi, Tikehau and Fakarava. Rangiroa, the largest atoll in French Polynesia, is one of the world’s premier scuba destinations.

Manihi is the leading supplier for the local cultured pearl industry. Tikehau is known for its pink sand beaches and abundant marine life, while Fakarava, with its rich ecosystem supporting rare birds, plants and crustaceans as well as a great diversity of marine life, is an appealing destination for nature-lovers. The breathtaking Austral Islands lie around 600 km south of the capital. Their dramatic scenery – imposing mountains contrasting with

lush valleys and high plains – makes the hiking as unforgettable as the diving here. Visit between August and October to witness the migration of humpback whales that come here to give birth. Lying 1,600 km to the south of Tahiti, the Gambier Islands are steeped in local history and culture. Visitors can discover hundreds of stone buildings, the legacy of Catholic missionaries from the 19th century, including St Michael’s Cathedral, which is adorned with local pearls. MAGAZINE

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MANAVA SUITE RESORT TAHITI

MOOREA PEARL RESORT & SPA

BORA BORA PEARL BEACH RESORT & SPA

TIKEHAU PEARL BEACH RESORT

HANGAROA ECO VILLAGE & SPA

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A TASTE OF PARADISE Food in the Islands of Tahiti is fresh, delicious and increasingly cosmopolitan. Expect to find Italian, Chinese and Vietnamese restaurants as well as Polynesian and French cuisine. Seafood is magnificent and there’s plenty of variety – look out for mahi mahi, red tuna, parrotfish and coconut crab. Must-try fare includes the national dish of poisson cru (raw fish marinated in lime juice and coconut milk). Local fruits – such as mango, papaya and pineapple – are delicious for breakfast or in a tropical cocktail as you watch the sunset. One of the premier dining experiences in Tahiti, Le Coco’s (www.lecocostahiti.com) is an island institution and a must-try experience for foodies. All recipes are the original creation of the restaurant’s two talented chefs, who draw inspiration from the island setting, and from the evolution of cooking techniques, from low temperature cooking to the use of vacuums and siphons to enhance flavours. The evening menu focuses on three themes: roots and signatures; travel and inspiration; and Chinese and Asian flavours. This choice of themed menus rotates regularly.

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Clockwise from left: Spa treatment room at The Brando (photo © The Brando); Tahiti’s original textiles, tifaifai (photo © Tahiti Tourisme); private Jacuzzi at the InterContinental Bora Bora Resort & Thalasso Spa (photo © InterContinental Bora Bora Resort & Thalasso Spa).

SHOP ‘TIL YOU DROP

ISLAND STYLE The best resorts strive to create a luxe environment that also reflects the local culture and heritage. The Hilton Bora Bora Nui Resort & Spa (www.hilton.com), for example, was the first hotel to construct two-storey overwater bungalows in French Polynesia, all inspired by Polynesian designs and featuring materials such as polished native timber. The Intercontinental Bora Bora Resort & Thalasso Spa (www.ihg.com/intercontinental/hotels) combines island style with more than a little French chic. Discover the Philippe Starck-inspired Bubbles bar with its polished timber floors and contemporary white upholstery. Overlooking the beach, lagoon and Mount Otemanu, it’s the perfect spot for an evening aperitif. 110

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The dream project of Hollywood legend Marlon Brando, The Brando is a luxury resort and a model of sustainable tourism. Offering 35 private villas, restaurants, bars, fitness facilities and more, it even harbours a scientific research eco-station. The villas’ designs pay tribute to Polynesian lifestyles and traditions, but also include amazing luxuries such as private plunge pools and windows the size of doors. The Four Seasons Bora Bora (www.fourseasons.com/borabora) is home to a stunning spa where wooden walkways are suspended above lush foliage and overlook the turquoise waters of the lagoon. Even more tempting, the spa uses products based on local ingredients including vanilla and organic seaweed.

Visitors looking for a special keepsake or gift have plenty of handmade items to choose from. Tahiti enjoys a thriving local culture that embraces sculpture, carving, weaving and tifaifai. Introduced to the islands by the wives of missionaries in the 18th century, tifaifai or the art of patchwork and quilting, remains a vital part of Tahitian life. Each woman has her own designs, which range from traditional motifs to contemporary floral designs. Many visitors choose tifaifai bed covers and cushions as mementoes of their Tahitian holiday. The local black pearls make wonderful souvenirs and come in a variety of sizes, shapes and shades. Further Information Tahiti Tourisme Tahitinow.com.au

Get lost and be found For the traveler in pursuit of an extraordinary all-inclusive luxury experience, we introduce The Brando. A culturally authentic getaway and world-class example of biodiversity and sustainable hospitality on Tetiaroa, a South Pacific island renewal.

thebrando.com

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Books

What we’re READING CUISINE MERGES WITH THEMES OF HISTORY, TRAVEL AND ROMANCE IN OUR BOOK REVIEWS THIS YEAR. Michelin Guide 2015 (Michelin, US$21.77) What’s hot, what’s not, and what’s the next big thing in dining? As always, this year’s Michelin Guide carries the very latest in French dining and is full of surprises – such as the addition of 30 new one-star restaurants in the regions, and seven in Paris. It’s a doorstopper of a tome, with 4,400 restaurants and a further 4,400 hotels listed, catering to all tastes and budgets. Experienced, anonymous reviewers ensure lasting value for travellers.

J’aime Paris, Alain Ducasse (Hardie Grant Books, €15) What better guide to Paris’ best foodie spots, than the inimitable Alain Ducasse? This small hardback dedicated to eating well in Paris comes complete with foldout map, and sumptuous photography by longtime creative partner, snapper Pierre Monetta. Restaurants, cafés, markets, bars, hotels and specialty grocers are all included – more than 100 tantalising addresses. A second edition devoted to New York eats is now out, too.

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Ma Folie Française, Marisa Raoul (Transit Lounge, US$12.00) This lyrical memoir, part emotional journey and part travelogue, takes place in southern France, where Sydney author and itinerant, Marisa Raoul, takes up residence for 10 years after falling in love with a Frenchman. Her tale bursts with eccentricities as she takes the reader deep into the world of her medieval B&B. Hilarious episodes ensue – along with some deep personal realisations. A warm and memorable romp.

A Food Lover’s Pilgrimage to France, Dee Nolan (Penguin Australia, $79.99) Armchair travellers, accomplished cooks and Francophiles alike will revel in this delicious account of how France’s gastronomy evolved through centuries of the bounty-rich nation being a pilgrim’s thoroughfare. Author and traveller Dee Nolan journeys through the vineyards of Burgundy, food capital of Lyon, the trout-filled rivers of the Pyréneés and further, gaining accounts from artisan providores and presenting her readers with recipes, maps and rich details on planning a French food pilgrimage.

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Alain Ducasse Pampered in Provence

Their fave dining spots will vary, but fans of Alain Ducasse, chef extraordinaire, will agree that his creative efforts span an impressive range of genres – from bistro to haute cuisine and pan-Asian. Among his southern-inspired offerings is the intimate La Bastide de Moustiers in Alpes de Haute Provence, celebrating its 20th anniversary this year. Offering just a few guest rooms, this inn brims with southern French style – limestone walls, acres of white linen and enchanting valley views. It goes without saying that Ducasse’s fine flavours can be enjoyed throughout the day, whether it’s a simple picnic or a lavish shared menu. www.bastide-moustiers.com

mascot. The figure draws his inspiration from the many small-town kids who go on to become football legends, and his name was chosen from a public competition in which more than 100,000 football fans voted. www.uefa.com

Travel

Luxury on the high seas

Football

Introducing Super Victor Football fans (or soccer, if you prefer the Anglo term) planning to visit France next year for the UEFA Cup, known as Euro 2016, listen up. International ticket sales began this northern spring 2015, so it’s time to plan your stay in any of the 10 host cities, including Paris, Lyon and Marseille. Guiding you to soccerfriendly tours, offers and other information is Super Victor, the cup’s

Operators of the youngest and possibly most sophisticated fleet in the cruise market, Ponant offers luxury yacht cruises, with knowledgeable lecturers on board and expedition teams to lead onshore adventures. Set sail to view the majestic glaciers of Alaska and Antarctica, exotic Amazon and Papua New Guinea, where you will experience Zodiac outings, or choose more relaxing itineraries such as the Mediterranean or Pacific Islands. On board, enjoy French gastronomy, fine wines, stylish interiors and a private balcony on almost all staterooms. The scale is intimate, with yachts catering for only 64 to 264 passengers. en.ponant.com

The Ponant fleet is intimate and elite in scale.

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Extravaganza

SOIRÉE Monaco

WHAT: A MONACO-THEMED PROMOTION OF LUXURY TRAVEL AND FRENCH HAUTE CUISINE, MARKING SOFITEL LUXURY HOTELS’ 50TH ANNIVERSARY, AND SOFITEL SYDNEY WENTWORTH’S 10TH ANNIVERSARY. Where: Grand Ballroom, Sofitel Sydney Wentworth. Who: As always, an elite cohort of French leisure powerbrokers was in attendance, including Tour de France director Christian Prudhomme, Monaco Tourism Australia head Alison RobertsBrown, SBS head Michael Ebeid and newsreader Sandra Sully, numbering 350 guests in all.

Top: Limited-edition Christofle champagne bucket with Perrier-Jouet champagne bottles. Above: Guillaume Rose and Alison Roberts-Brown. 114

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Claire Garrety and Lachlan Conn.

Julien Hemard and Auriane Bourdin.

Matt Preston, Gabriel GatĂŠ and Laurent Plantier. Highlights: The ballroom took on palatial overtones, with red roses and velvet dĂŠcor complementing the three-course dinner by Michelin-starred chef, Alain Ducasse, and top wines and champagnes from Perrier-Jouet. A velvety solo performance by opera singer, Antoinette Halloran, had guests rapt midway through the night. The event was sponsored by Monaco Tourism, Atout France, Accor, Etihad Airways and Air France, with the support of Vintec, Christian Dior Parfums, Vittoria Coffee, Riedel, Perrier-Jouet, Christofle, Tefal and GJ Food.

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Launch

Tour de FRANCE 2015 WHAT: A TOUR DE FRANCE-THEMED GALA DINNER IN CELEBRATION OF SOFITEL LUXURY HOTELS’ 50TH ANNIVERSARY.

Claire Kaletka-Neil, Catriona Rowntree and friend, and Judy MacMahon.

Where: Sofitel Melbourne on Collins. Who: An intimate gathering of Melbourne’s French community and Francophiles, including star reporter Catriona Rowntree and chef Gabriel Gaté . Highlights: Continuing his lightning 48-hour visit to Australia, Tour de France director Christian Prudhomme regaled the audience with his rich humour and thick French accent. French Ambassador Andrew Cannon and Myriam Boisbouvier-Wylie competed in the spin session. The event was supported by Lancôme Paris, Galeries Lafayette, Pernod Ricard, Nespresso, Air France, Coq Sportif and Sofitel Luxury Hotels.

Camilla McInnes, Christian Prudhomme, Lea Granado, Gabriel Gaté and Brad McDonnell.

Above: Gabriel Gaté. Left: Andrew Cannon and Myriam Boisbouvier-Wylie.

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Tahiti

Pacific PEARL Vanille Brisard enjoying the Tahitian poisson cru.

WHAT: AN EXTRAVAGANT HALF-DAY WORKSHOP, AIMED AT SHOWCASING ALL THAT IS EXCITING ABOUT TAHITI TRAVEL NOW. Where: Pullman Auckland Hotel. Who: Travel professionals from around the world, including the prestigious St Regis Bora Bora Resort, Air Tahiti Nui and Aranui Cruises. Sofitel’s Lisa Coakley, Tahiti Tourisme’s Gina Bunton and Robert Thompson and Air Tahiti Nui’s Mark Hutchinson all attended. Highlights: Tahitian sights, sounds and flavours filled the auditorium, with a Tahitian dance performance, delectable samplings of poisson cru, and copious amounts of flowers rivalling the tropical floral-print shirts. Each travel trade representative was presented with a gleaming Tahitian black pearl at the end of the event.

Claire Kaletka-Neil, Patrick Benhamou and Sophie Almin with Tahitian dancers.

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Imax

Liberty in 3D…DAY WHAT: LAUNCH OF THE FIRST-EVER 3D MOVIE ABOUT THE D-DAY LANDINGS OF 1944 IN NORMANDY, PRESENTED BY ATOUT FRANCE AND TOURISM NORMANDY.

Arnaud Tartour, student from the Lycee Condorcet in Maroubra.

Where: Imax Sydney, Darling Harbour. Who: Some 500 friends of Atout France, including the Vittoria Coffee and La Maison du The CEO, Les Schirato; Catalina owners Julie and Michael McMahon; French Ambassador Christophe Lecourtier; and Normandy Tourism president Raphael Chauvois. The surprise appearance of World War II veteran Cliff Stevens, aged 92, had the audience breathless as he told of his near-death encounters during the war. Highlights: With its 3D visual effects on the biggest IMAX screen in the world, along with sand animation, animated cartography, archive footage and reenactments, the film itself brought to life the unprecedented military feat known as D-Day. Atout France, meanwhile, regaled guests with its trademark brand of hospitality: generous cheese platters, copious servings of Normandy’s Ecusson cider and calvados, and a one metre-wide ice sculpture of Mont Saint-Michel.

Raphael Chauvois, 92-year-old WWII veteran Cliff Stevens and friend Jack McDougall.

From back row, left: Atout France team Claire Kaletka-Neil, Patrick Benhamou, Camille Hugues, Flore Rousseau, Charly Bongiorno, Martin Lombard, Charline Joly, Sophie Almin.

Les Schirato, Julie and Michael McMahon.

Gregory Delahaye and Brad McDonnell.

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Laura Anderson

Things I LOVE ABOUT FRANCE

LAURA ANDERSON IS CHAIR OF VIRGIN AUSTRALIA MELBOURNE FASHION FESTIVAL, AND CHAIR OF PRIVATE INVESTMENT FIRM SVI GLOBAL. SHE’S ALSO A DYNAMO WHO RELISHES IN THE RULEBREAKING, EFFORTLESS STYLE OF FRENCH FASHION – AND SHARES 10 OF HER TOP FRENCH STYLE NOTES HERE.

What professional connection do you have with France? Many – such as judging China Fashion Week, supporting emerging designers in London and rolling out our renowned Festival in Melbourne. French style is incredible in its effortless style.

Your favourite destinations in France? There are so many – skiing in the mountains, shopping in Paris, windsurfing in Brittany and cycling through villages.

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Most memorable stays? A romantic B&B on the border of France and Switzerland, where we snuggled under huge feather doonas, waiting for a snowstorm to pass.

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Your all-time favourite dining experience? Dining at friends’ homes is very special for me, but favourite restaurants would include Derrière on rue des Gravilliers in Paris, and L’Oustau de Baumanière in Les Baux de Provence.

What are your favourite French clothing brands? Louis Vuitton, Hermès, Dior, Lanvin, Chanel – the timeless brands. To which I’ll always add a bit of a twist.

Top Paris shopping destinations? All the lovely boutiques around every corner. There was a beautiful little shop near the Jardin des Tuileries, where I bought 10 wonderful pairs of gloves on my last trip.

What first sparked your interest in France? A trip to France with my family as a teenager, when we visited unforgettable regions including Paris-île de France, Provence and the Côte d’Azur.

Top shopping spots in other cities? Rue des Hallebardes in Strasbourg, the lovely shops in the laneways of Eze, and many more. France has incredible shops everywhere, and they all defy the rules in style.

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Favourite French cultural trend right now? The fusion of global cultures into the French design aesthetic.

How do you relive your French experiences when in Australia? I am very fortunate to have family ties in France, and my children are both studying the language. I am plotting my next trip to Annecy in the Alps, Paris during Fashion Week, and seeing friends in Monaco.

The Fragrance of Happiness

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