Retail Focus #101 | July/August 2018

retail focus

JULY/AUGUST 2018 : £6.75 #101

July/August 2018/issue 101

retail focus WWW.RETAIL-FOCUS.CO.UK

STELLA

Paris Retail Week : Maison Alaïa : Harrods Fine Watches : London Design Festival 2018 : Travel Retail : LCF x Checkland Kindleysides : Mall Overhaul : Beauty Retail : Department Stores : Q&A with Tom Horne & Will Green, L’Estrange

ROCKS Inside the world of Stella McCartney

Paris Retail Week : Maison Alaïa : Harrods Fine Watches : London Design Festival 2018 : Travel Retail: LCF x Checkland Kindleysides : Mall Overhaul : Beauty Retail : Department Stores : Q&A with Tom Horne & Will Green, L’Estrange

CHRIST

LONGCHAMP

GALERIA KAUFHOF

R I M OWA

COMMA

M O LT O N B R O W N

W E T A K E A H O L I S T I C , F U L LY I N T E G R AT E D A P P R O A C H T O T H E I M P L E M E N TAT I O N O F O U R V I S U A L M A R K E T I N G C O N C E P T S .

AN APPROACH CHARACTERISED BY INTENSITY OF FEELING, AT T E N T I O N T O D E TA I L A N D C L E A R , U N M I S TA K A B L E P O S I T I O N I N G .

BARTHELMESS.COM

in fo - uk@ ba r th elm es s.com 020 3603 7117 in fo - uk@ ba r th elm es s.com 020 3603 7117

Award Winning Faux Neon

Award Winning Faux Neon neonplus.co.uk

Need Neonspiration? neonplus.co.uk/gallery

Contact Us For A Quote sales@thesigngroup.co.uk

A product by The Sign Group

contents

CONTENTS Stella Rocks

30-32

The Stella McCartney global flagship store on Old Bond Street is built with customised experiences at the core, offering visitors new and multisensory ways to engage with the world of Stella McCartney.

Design 43 London Festival preview

Industry brief: 50 LCF Third Spaces

46 Travel retail

Retail Exchange: 55 The Mall Overhaul

7

Leader

8

Diary

10

Paris Retail Week

13-18 News

53

59

Opinion Why Westfield’s vision for the future of retail is bright.

20-22 Window shopping Inspiring window displays from around the globe.

Opinion Business Improvement Districts are the way forward, believes The Retail Champion, Clare Bailey.

69

In & around...

The main vein of New York City’s shopping scene, Fifth Avenue offers a wealth of retail highlights.

29

Karl McKeever

Where does retail fit into the great plastic debate?

72-86 P roducts

25-26 Centre Stage

30-40 Project Focus Stella McCartney : Maison Alaïa : Harrods Fine Watches

www.retail-focus.co.uk

Products and services for the retail industry.

beauty of 60 The beauty stores

next for the 64 What’s department store?

94

Q&A Co-founders of L’Estrange London, Tom Horne and Will Green are putting collaboration and community at the core of their menswear fashion business.

| Armourcoat Acoustic® Plaster System |

Exceptional Acoustics Armourcoat’s new Acoustic Plaster System offers a seamless mineral finish over large expanses to optimise the acoustics of interior spaces.

Applied to ceilings at The Minster Building for architects BuckleyGrayYeoman.

• Class ‘A’ NRC • Topcoat incorporates 70% recycled marble • Basecoat incorporates 85% recycled glass • Class ‘O’ fire-rated • Zero VOCs

Photography: © Jonathan Banks

www.armourcoat.com

leader

welcome July/August ‘18 Welcome to a bumper combined issue of Retail Focus. As schools, colleges and universities break up for the summer holidays, we look at how a group of students on the MA Fashion Retail Management course at London College of Fashion recently responded to an industry brief set by design agency Checkland Kindleysides. Forming part of the Creative Retail Spaces Unit, the brief centred around non-transactional experiences and tasked the students with researching, defining and designing a third space in-store that would creatively articulate a chosen brand’s purpose and translate it across multiple touchpoints. You can read about the final proposals and the judges’ comments on pages 50-51.

On the subject of non-transactional experiences, this month we look at the changing face of the beauty sector and discuss why more brands are opening standalone stores to tell their story. ‘A large proportion of high street retailers have struggled to transition from the mindset that a store is only a selling platform, when in fact we’re seeing service-led and a softer sell becoming key strategies to success,’ says Stefanie Dorfer, retail editor at innovation research and advisory company, Stylus. ‘This is where beauty is really coming to the fore.’

Find out more about this booming industry on pages 60-62.

Also in this summer issue, we take a stroll down Old and New Bond Street to scope out the new store design concepts for Stella McCartney and Azzedine Alaïa, and head across to Harrods for a peek at the new Fine Watches department (pages 30-40).

The latest Retail Exchange Podcast entitled ‘Mall Overhaul’ is now available to download, and you can also read what our senior industry thinkers had to say on the future of shopping centres on pages 55-57.

Happy reading. (Oh, it’s good to be back!)

Gemma Balmford Editor

Managing Editor

Editor

Gemma Balmford

Lyndsey Dennis

e. gemma@retail-focus.co.uk

e. lyndsey@retail-focus.co.uk

t. +44 (0)7908 895 906

t. +44 (0)7500 138 810

Get more from Retail Focus online!

Production & Web

Publisher

Terry Clark

Lee Cullumbine

e. terry@retail-focus.co.uk

e. lee@retail-focus.co.uk

t. +44 (0)7833 221 120

t. +44 (0)7833 221 150

www.retail-focus.co.uk

Social media For subscription enquiries please email: subscriptions@retailfocus.co Retail Focus is published 12 times a year by Retail Focus Promotions Ltd, Yeomans, Bassetts Lane, Woodham Walter, Maldon, Essex, CM9 6RZ. No part of Retail Focus may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form without permission. Please

12k+ followers

35k+ followers

2k+ followers

4k+ followers

19k+ followers

address all enquiries to the editor at the above address. The opinions expressed in Retail Focus are the views of the writer and do not necessarily reflect the views and opinions of the publisher.

Every effort has been made to ensure accuracy of the information

Industry associations

contained in these pages. We will assume permission to publish any unsolicited material unless otherwise stated.

Retail Focus Promotions Ltd 2018.

7

diary

DIARY

Fashioned from Nature V&A Museum, London Runs until 27 January 2019 ‘Fashioned from Nature’ is the first UK exhibition to explore the complex relationship between fashion and nature from 1600 to the present day. It presents fashionable dress alongside natural history specimens, innovative new fabrics and dyeing processes. From botanical embroidery to earrings made from birds of paradise, the relationship between nature and fashion is complex and often controversial. A journey through centuries of fashion that have drawn inspiration from, and plundered, the natural world through to the contemporary innovators who are directly addressing the issues caused by the industry.

V_and_A www.vam.ac.uk

Paris Retail Week Paris expo Porte de Versailles 10-12 September 2018

Fortnum’s X Frank 2018 (FXF18) Fortnum & Mason, London 10 September - 20 October 2018

London Design Festival Citywide 15-23 September 2018

Taking on the theme of ‘Smart Phygital’, Paris Retail Week will be a centre point for the convergence of digital technology and thought-out physical design. Taking place at Paris expo Porte de Versailles, the show will welcome 40,000 decision makers, 800 industry providers, 350 headline speakers, store tours and the Paris Retail Awards.

Fortnum & Mason is continuing its annual artistic collaboration Fortnum’s X Frank 2018 (FXF18) with art collector, Frank Cohen, presenting a rich body of work

by British landscape artist, John Virtue.

Coinciding with Frieze Art Fair and London Design Festival, the event will see 70 large-scale monochromatic works by Virtue placed across the floors of the store.

The annual London Design Festival celebrates and promotes London as the design capital of the world and as the gateway to the international creative community. The Festival programme is made up of more than 400 events and exhibitions staged by hundreds of partner organisations across the design spectrum and from around the world.

PRWOfficial

Fortnums www.fortnumandmason.com Photo: Credit Phillip Sinden

en.parisretailweek.com

8

L_D_F www.londondesignfestival.com

Enter now at www.surfacedesignawards.com

SDA_Ad_230x300_090718.indd 1

Sponsors

09/07/2018 16:0

preview

Paris Retail Week: Smart Phygital The European event dedicated to 360 retail returns in September with the theme Smart Phygital ‘Welcome to the smart phygital era,’ proclaims the website for Paris Retail Week 2018. The event, which is now in its fourth year, takes place from 10-12 September in Pavilion 1 of Paris Expo Porte de Versailles, and will offer more than 200 conferences, workshops and keynotes to visitors from all over Europe.

This year’s edition will focus on the theme of smart phygital, providing a vision of the challenges in 360 retail, including new models of distribution, layout and design, the consumer path to purchase, web to store and store to web, and shopper marketing. ‘Whether digital or physical, retailers must reinvent their relationships with consumers by developing hyper-proximity, setting an example for transparency and ethics, and proposing augmented offers,’ says a spokesperson for Paris Retail Week. ‘The digital and physical retail worlds must meet to serve an ecosystem that is ever more intelligent and agile.’

On the opening morning, Paris Retail Week and Havas Paris will discuss the five major trends that they believe will change tomorrow’s retail trade in France and around the world. This will be followed by talks from Chieh Huang, co-founder and CEO of boxed.com, on the future of e-commerce, and Winston Cheng, president of international, JD.com on empowering French brands in China with retail as a service. Other speakers taking part during the event include Loïc de Saint Andrieu, Google France mobile evangelist at Google, Joël Plat, former retail director at Apple, and Roman Kirsch, CEO of Lesara.

Paris Retail Week will also incorporate six exhibition zones, focusing on IT for commerce, retail tech/digital in-store, layout and equipment, payment solutions, marketing/data and customer relationship, as well as logistics/e-logistics and supply chain.

There will also be a dedicated start-up area and a brand and innovation village.

For more information or to register, visit www.parisretailweek.com

10

Highlights Paris Retail Tours The Paris Retail Tours by Equipmag will take place each day of the show from 09:30-15:30, with the themes ‘The New Temples’, ‘Tech In Store’ and ‘Arty Style’. The tours provide the opportunity to visit several stores in Paris and meet with representatives.

Paris Retail Awards One ceremony, 11 awards, including Paris Retail Golden Award and Rookie of the Year. The ceremony takes place on Monday 10 September with the presence of the jury, headed by Céline Del Genes, global vice-president football concept to consumer, Adidas HQ. Viva Le Store This year, Paris Retail Week is partnering with Influencia and Objectconnecte.com to create an area specially designed to reflect the new dynamics of the point of sale.

International Retail Sessions New for 2018, the sessions will be presented by international retail players who will put best practices into the spotlight.

Speakers include Takashi Okutani, executive officer at Oisix (Japan) and Brendan Witcher, principal analyst at Forrester (USA).

10. 11. 12 SEPT 2018 PARIS EXPO PORTE DE VERSAILLES PAVILION 1

800 PARTICIPATING COMPANIES 40,000 PROFESSIONALS

EV ENT

3 STORE TOURS 11 AWARDS

FOR RETAIL

PROFESSIONALS WWW.PARISRETAILWEEK. COM

REQUEST YOUR FREE BADGE ON: WWW.PARISRETAILWEEK.COM

Invitation Code: PUB

Or scan the QR code:

The synergy ot two sectors:

+

PARIS RETAIL WEEK: BE PART OF EUROPE’S LEADING 360° RETAIL EVENT! The fourth edition of Paris Retail Week will take place September 10 – 12, 2018 in Pavilion 1 at Paris expo Porte de Versailles.

The success of the third edition of Paris Retail Week confirmed the need for professionals of the off- and on-line retail sectors to meet at a common event.

The 2018 edition of Paris Retail Week will highlight , the global and agile retail ecosystem. Retailers are experts in organic revolution.

From brick and mortar to pure players, not to mention m- and s-commerce, retailers have shown their unfailing sense of adaptation.

Retail today is SMART. It learns from and grasps the opportunities offered by artificial intelligence to continuously improve the customer experience. It has (at last!) married off- and on-line retail and now heralds the arrival of the Phygital era.

Paris Retail Week will present the entire value chain of the sector: new models of distribution, layout and design, the consumer

#ParisRetailWeek www.parisretailweek.com

path to purchase, web to store and store to web, omni-channel CRM, shopper marketing, agile logistics, and more.

The largest retail trade show in Europe will gather the E-Commerce sector, dedicated to solutions for e-retailers, ranging from digital marketing to logistics, and the EquipMag (store) sector, dedicated to physical commerce and distribution.

For three days, Paris will be the capital of experiential and connected commerce, bringing together 800 participating companies and 40,000 retail professionals.

PARIS, CAPITAL OF EXPERIENTIAL AND CONNECTED COMMERCE

© Anne-Emmanuelle Thion - Creation: CA-inspire

THE EUROPEAN GLOBAL

350 TOP SPEAKERS

NEWS V&A Museum announces largest ever Christian Dior exhibition in the UK The V&A Museum will welcome the largest ever Christian Dior exhibition in the UK next February. Taking place from 2 February 14 July 2019, the exhibition is the museum’s biggest since Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty in 2015. Spanning 1947 to the present day, ‘Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams’ will trace the history and impact of one of the 20th Century’s most influential couturiers, and the six artistic directors who have succeeded him, to explore the enduring influence of the fashion house.

Based on the major exhibition ‘Christian Dior: Couturier du Rêve’, organised by the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, the event will be reimagined for the V&A. For the first time, a new area will explore the designer’s fascination with British culture. This exhibition will investigate Dior’s creative collaborations with influential British manufacturers, and his most notable British clients, from author Nancy Mitford to ballet dancer Margot Fonteyn. A highlight will be the Christian Dior dress worn by Princess Margaret for her 21st birthday celebrations, generously on loan from the Museum of London. It will also bring to life Dior’s spectacular fashion shows staged in the UK’s most luxurious stately homes, including Blenheim Palace in 1954.

Opening date announced for Coal Drops Yard

Coal Drops Yard, a new shopping and lifestyle district in London’s Kings Cross, will open its doors to the public on Friday 26 October 2018. Designed by Heatherwick Studio, the development has confirmed four new brands signed up to join the area: Tracey Neuls, Studio One Twenty, Morty & Bob’s and The Sports Edit.

Écarlate afternoon dress, Autumn-Winter 1955 Haute Couture collection, Y line. Victoria and Albert Museum, London. Photo © Laziz Hamani

news

Coal Drops Yard will be home to more than 50 stores, restaurants and cafés, bringing together a community of like-minded brands in a reimagined set of historic buildings and arches directly adjacent to Granary Square and Regent’s Canal. Coal Drops Yard was originally established in 1850 to handle the eight million tonnes of coal delivered to the capital each year, and was latterly the location of legendary nightclubs Bagley’s and The Cross. The area is now reopening, reinvented by the acclaimed Heatherwick Studio, which has interwoven a contemporary design with the surviving structures, streets and rich ironwork of the original Victorian coal drops.

No space at Coal Drops Yard is the same. Stores and restaurants are located in canal-side arches fronting onto cobbled courtyards, within the original ‘coal drops’ themselves and across a series of raised iron viaducts. Larger statement stores sit at each street corner, with one dual-aspect space crowning the street, located directly beneath Heatherwick Studio’s striking ‘kissing’ rooftops. Lower Stable Street, a sunken street between Coal Drops Yard and Stable Street, will also open this October, offering spaces for a range of smaller pop-up and experimental stores, complementing and offering a different aspect to the Coal Drops Yard experience.

As well as a series of independent stores, Coal Drops Yard will house a range of cafés and bars, top restaurants and new public spaces, making it an oasis-like space for visitors to dwell, discover and explore. Special in-store events, workshops, pop-ups and talks will take place as part of an ongoing programme of activities and events.

13

Flash to gonews here

Tiffany & Co. opens Covent Garden Style Studio Luxury jeweller Tiffany & Co. has opened a new store in the heart of London’s Covent Garden that is designed to encourage creative interaction and play. The 200 sq m Style Studio features Tiffany Blue wooden crates displaying whimsical Everyday Objects accessories, a personalisation bar, and a Tiffany fragrance vending machine.

‘We’ve integrated uniquely playful displays that reflect the wit and humour of Tiffany design to create a one-ofa-kind experiential destination,’ says Richard Moore, vice president, creative director of store design and creative visual merchandising at Tiffany & Co. Located on James Street and expected to operate until mid-2019, the boutique encourages visitors to explore, personalise, create and self-style.

New design unveiled for National Space Centre store

Burlington Arcade welcomes The English Garden Burlington Arcade has unveiled The English Garden, a beautiful installation by French artist Mathilde Nivet. In place for the summer season, the installation is made from sheets of paper that make up two beautiful gardens hanging in the Arcade.

‘England is famous for its charming gardens. This was something that struck me the most the first time I came to the UK, and the magnificent London parks still continue to inspire me today. With this art installation, I wanted to pay tribute to the beauty of the English Garden. Entirely made of paper, the drawing, assembling and installing requires hundreds of hours of work and is composed of thousands of flowers and leaves. I chose flowers which I believed to symbolise the essence of English gardens. In these two installations you will find Hydrangeas, Anemones, Wisteria, Yarrow, Dogwood, Iris, Clematis, Morning Glory, and of course, beautiful Roses,’ says Nivet.

‘Nature and especially flowers have always been a key source of inspiration for my work and have been present in my art from the beginning. There are strong connections between my paper art and the floral world as they are both ephemeral, graceful and fragile. In addition there is perfect harmony between my creations and the craftsmanship that is synonymous with Burlington Arcade.’

14

The National Space Centre in Leicester has unveiled a new store design, courtesy of Mynt. The brand communications and retail design agency created the store concept to offer customers a clear journey and category navigation, within a dynamic, angular and striking interior aesthetic.

Mynt created a new graphics palette and introduced an inviting and playful tone of voice alongside a set of illustrations, which weave throughout the store journey.

Messaging such as ‘Just Landed’ helps to promote the latest range of gifts and products in the store. The ‘Shop’ logo is simple, welcoming, and nods to the iconic planet, Saturn.

Mynt exploited the existing ceiling space and used this area for merchandising at high level, expanding sight lines and giving the store a literal sense of ‘space’. The flexible concept allows the store to be opened up during busy times and also re-merchandised with ease when staff want to change up the product offering.

Contrasting textures and reflective materials and finishes were introduced to add a technical and tactile quality to the store, while the repetitive use of acute angles further establishes the store’s ownable space against some of the softer interior aesthetics located within the centre.

news Napapijri opens permanent space in Shoreditch Following on from the successful Napapijri pop-up store in Shoreditch, the space has now been redesigned into a permanent retail environment

by StudioXAG. The brief was to create a conceptual store for the brand’s Rainforest jacket, focused around a central social garden space where customers could dwell.

With the store space being very small in footprint, StudioXAG clad the perimeter of the store in a corrugated mirror chrome to give a sense of

expanse and light that contrasts against the garden space, reflecting the foliage around the store. The walls were offset at different angles to bring interest and movement to the customer’s journey through the store.

As a point of difference, the fitting room area was clad in corrugated gold chrome with a softer, tactile felt inside.

A technology-focused heritage area at the back of the store houses the classic Skidoo jacket behind transparent screen technology to create some interest around the rich history of the brand.

To draw focus to the rainforest product, the team wanted to create fixtures with

a minimal profile, using gridded floating rails in a warm clay red colour with accent brass detailing. Only one of each product is displayed to allow the detail of the jacket to become hero. Integrated iPads on each fixture allow customers to order their size directly from the fixture.

Conceptual seating using plywood stacks with felt and moss green fabric cushions allows customers to use the space to work or simply relax in the garden. A working bench in the window faces out through the graffiti-sprayed facia of the store, a touch which StudioXAG felt would talk to the Shoreditch customer.

In brief...

• Monki has opened its sixth store in the UK, at Westfield London. The 430 sq m space blends ideas of an urban hangout with inspiration from an imaginery universe into a concept store design called ‘the Monki world’. The silver-coloured store includes rainbow coloured fitting rooms, an interior inspired by a great sea beast and a two-story statement facade featuring a ‘disco cloud’ installation.

Tom Dixon Studio unveils new hub in King’s Cross Internationally renowned designer Tom Dixon has opened his most ambitious location yet at The Coal Office in King’s Cross. Located on Granary Square, the new address is a fresh London home for Dixon’s latest experiments, innovations and collaborations. The hub will contribute to an ever-expanding network of creatives and technologists from the likes of Central St. Martins and LVMH to Google and Spiritland.

Against the backdrop of the Coal Drops Yard development, The Coal Office will function as a live studio combining a shop, workshop and office, with the culinary delights of a brand new restaurant and roof terrace.

‘For us it was imperative not just to find a new office or shop. It was vital to find a new home. London isn’t just another city. It is where it all started. We will use these 1,625 sq m in this incredible location as a platform to broadcast our latest ideas in interior design, product innovation and experiments in food, functionality and future living,’ says Dixon.

Through collaborations with both established and smaller brands, Dixon will curate an evolving holistic experience designed to push the boundaries of contemporary retail as we know it. The Coal Office is designed to serve as the ultimate centre for interiors; a journey through outstanding details from beginning to end.

• Jack Wills and Côte Brasserie have signed up for Festival Place in Basingstoke. Jack Wills will open a 260 sq m store, offering a range of British heritage-inspired men’s and women’s clothing. Côte Brasserie will open a 311 sq m restaurant bringing its Parisian-inspired all-day offer to the centre, boosting the wide spectrum of casual dining choices.

• Creative hub Carousel and Dutch designer bike brand VanMoof have both chosen Seven Dials as the location for their latest stores. It is VanMoof’s first site in the UK and a West End flagship for Carousel.

• Woking town centre’s new £500 million physical transformation is fast taking shape and is on track for phased completion in 2020. At 34 stories high, two iconic apartment towers and a new 23-storey Hilton Hotel are part of the town’s new Victoria Square development which includes 429 apartments and 11,612 sq m of new commercial space.

Anchored by a new Marks & Spencer food and clothing store across 4,645 sq m, Victoria Square will also include a multistorey car park, a medical centre and two public plazas and will open in September 2020.

15

international news

international

NEWS H&M reopens rue La Fayette store with new format H&M has reopened its store on rue La Fayette in Paris. The new flagship spans five floors and carries all H&M concepts including H&M Home as well as the brand’s new concept, H&M Take Care, a new service that encourages and inspires customers to care for their garments. H&M has created the ‘Guidance’ inspirational hub of information on how to best care for clothes, shoes and accessories.

The Take Care line features laundry products, stain remover, repair patches, emergency repair kits and sneaker wipes under the ‘Products’ category, while ‘Services’ offers a special H&M Take Care Area with two permanent services for customers: repair and customise garments with embroidery.

To celebrate the opening, H&M launched an exclusive ladies’ collection called Bonjour Paris, taking its inspiration from the iconic Parisian look, available exclusively in the store and globally at www.hm.com

Carl Hansen & Son opens flagship in Osaka Danish furniture company Carl Hansen & Son has opened a new flagship store in Osaka, Japan following the success of its Tokyo store, which opened four years ago. Located in the heart of the fashionable Minami-Horie district, the new store is spread across two floors and houses masterpieces from the Golden Age of Danish Design by such leading figures as Hans J. Wegner, Kaare Klint, Arne Jacobsen, Ole Wanscher, Børge Mogensen, and Poul Kjærholm.

The collection also features recent works from contemporary visionaries such as Tadao Ando, EOOS, Naja Utzon Popov, Anker Bak, and Brad Ascalon.

The craftsmanship stories behind the pieces form an integral part of the in-store experience. Conceived to show a different side of the Carl Hansen & Son brand, the Osaka store has a more industrial aesthetic than its Tokyo counterpart, with such striking elements as a concrete staircase with Modernist inspired detailing. The contemporary blend of material, colour and form creates a fitting backdrop for Carl Hansen & Son’s collection of modern classics.

16

Philanthropic online retailer Olivela opens summer pop-up Online retailer Olivela has opened a summer pop-up shop in Nantucket, in the US, designed by London-based HMKM. The 80 sq m space houses a selection of summer handbags, shoes, ready-to-wear, jewellery, beauty and fragrances, bringing the brand’s philanthropic retail concept to a fully immersive physical experience.

The boutique includes #TheOlivelaEffect experience suite, where guests can immerse themselves with the causes and recipients they are supporting.

Olivela’s business model enables consumers to make a direct impact by purchasing luxury fashion and beauty products from some of the world’s leading brands, including Burberry, Givenchy, Prada, Jason Wu, Prabal Gurung, Sisley Paris, Stella McCartney and Valentino. A portion of proceeds from the sale of every item is donated to one of Olivela’s cause partners, supporting efforts to secure education for at-risk girls around the globe.

‘Taking philanthropic retailing to the next level, guests will be surprised by innovative in-store technology providing the opportunity to interact and learn about their favourite designer products while understanding the benefit their purchase is having,’ explains a spokesperson for HMKM. ‘Olivela connects luxury shopping with philanthropy, allowing us to harness our purchasing power to do a little good while simply purchasing the same great pieces we would otherwise,’ adds Stacey Boyd, CEO and founder of Olivela. ‘Moving into a physical space allows us to connect consumers with our mission in an even more tangible way. We couldn’t be more excited to take our first step offline and open our doors in Nantucket this summer.’

international news

Printemps Men’s Store welcomes Cafe Jules Printemps Haussmann has unveiled a new bar and dining experience in the Printemps Men’s Store. Cafe Jules is the last stage of the architectural development of the new ground floor dedicated to accessories. The new 150 sq m cafe is located at the main entrance on rue de Havre and features an open kitchen, stone floor, and subtle uses of mirrors. The furniture affirms the contemporary feel of the space.

Cafe Jules owes its name to Jules Jaluzot, the founder of Printemps.

Photography: © Nigel Young/Foster+Partners

Apple opens calm environment in Macau Foster + Partners has once again collaborated with Apple, this time on its new Cotai Central store, which offers a calm complement to the buzz and excitement of Macau. The new store has opened in response to the desire for an inviting, contemplative space, where technology, entertainment and arts come together to make a positive contribution to the city. Its timeless design reinvigorates a corner of Cotai with a distinctive addition — a luminescent cube, whose pure geometry and warm beacon-like glow draws passers-by closer, set within a quiet bamboo grove and an external plaza.

Apple Cotai Central seeks to create more meaningful spaces for the community and provides an alternative urban model for Cotai.

Strategically located at the heart of this gaming and entertainment capital, the design makes a humble civic gesture with a large new event plaza in the foreground of the cube.

Carved out of a densely planted bamboo forest, the plaza forms an oasis of tranquility, an urban room that draws people into the site, creating pedestrian connections between the surrounding buildings for the first time.

Ted Baker to expand German presence Cushman & Wakefield and German leasing partner COMFORT have been appointed by Ted Baker to source new store locations for the British

18

fashion brand as it expands its presence in Germany.

Ted Baker is seeking prime high street and shopping centre locations, focusing initially on Germany’s largest cities including Berlin, Hamburg, Munich,

Cologne, Frankfurt, and Dusseldorf.

The iconic British fashion brand currently has 16 concessions in premium department stores across Germany and is now seeking to develop a network of Ted Baker stores in the country.

the loNg-term effects

F Ca er

When you think of cancer, you may not think of it as a long-term condition. However 65% of cancer survivors say they’ve had to deal with long-term side effects during and after treatment. These long-term effects – such as persistent hair loss, depression, fatigue, nausea and loss of confidence – can impact their everyday lives, including at work.

Each year, almost 120,000 people of working age are diagnosed with cancer in the UK, and with survival rates improving and people retiring later, this figure is set to rise. 85% of people in work when they were diagnosed with cancer say that continuing work is important to them.

However, 47% of people had to give work up or change roles, highlighting the importance of ensuring that the right support and advice is available early on to prevent staff falling out of work.

However despite the need for this support, line managers are often ill equipped to offer the right level of information to help manage employees affected by cancer.

Organisations urgently need to develop a health and wellbeing at work strategy that recognises the needs of rising numbers of employees with long-term conditions. This is why Macmillan has developed Macmillan at Work, which offers workplace training, consultancy and resources to help HR and line managers support people affected by cancer.

a positive impact not only on wellbeing and helping to preserve livelihoods of those with long-term conditions, but also benefits organisations in retaining knowledgeable staff, as well as fostering a positive work culture and loyal workforce.

The building blocks of a good health and wellbeing at work strategy include policy, training and support programmes that raise awareness and address the needs of employees, and ensuring that relevant staff (such as line managers and HR) are equipped to support colleagues affected by cancer.

To find out about the expert training, guidance and resources Macmillan provides, visit macmillan.org.uk/atwork You can also email the team at workandcancer@macmillan.org.uk or call 020 7840 4725.

Evidence shows health support in the workplace can help prevent people falling out of work due to ill health. Remaining in work can have Macmillan Cancer Support, registered charity in England and Wales (261017), Scotland (SC039907) and the Isle of Man (604). MAC15903_2017

MAC15903 Employee Benefits ad_297x210mm.indd 3

29/03/2017 10:07

visual Flashmerchandising to go here

Inspiring window displays from around the globe

Debenhams This window at Debenhams on Oxford Street, London marked the launch of its collaboration with Richard Quinn, the inaugural winner of the Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design. ‘Following Richard’s signature style of vivid print placed against print, the windows were designed to be striking and a radical departure from usual schemes,’ says a spokesperson for Debenhams. Mannequins are dressed in body suits and headscarves printed at Quinn’s Peckham studio and then dressed in the limited collection.

Large-scale lightboxes and vinyl flooring mirror each print, creating a bold fashion statement.

Harrods The summer windows at Harrods in London feature a series of vaults, in line with the luxury department store’s two-month ‘Rarity’ campaign. The store is celebrating rarity in all its guises via a curated list of rare finds spanning fashion and fine jewellery, gastronomy and interior design, to a unique portfolio of rare experiences.

Coach The Coach summer/pre-fall window concept pays tribute to vintage postcards and archival New York graphics. The ‘Greetings from New York’ window transforms the idea of a graphic postcard into a dimensional composition, bringing New York icons and Coach codes to life.

‘The Brooklyn Bridge, Empire State Building, Statue of Liberty, Rexy, Tea Roses and our Signature all nestle within three-dimensional New York lettering,’ explains a spokesperson for Coach. ‘This creates a playful arrangement for our product to sit amongst.’

The brand’s signature colours and finish adorn the windows, such as chrome detailing, mica touches, neon, and gold leaf lending an elevated modern luxury finish.

Photography: Daniel Salemi

20

visual merchandising Joseph This monochromatic window scheme at Joseph Fashion on Fulham Road, London uses simple spots and stripes mixed with 3D spheres to create an eye-catching display that showcases the pre-fall collections, such as the beautiful pieces from Valentino AW18. The scheme was produced in collaboration with Harlequin Design.

Christian Louboutin The Loubi-in-progress window offers a larger-than-life peek into Christian Louboutin’s creative process; all the things you might find strewn around the artist while he’s working. This moment of ‘inner workings,’ which is often overlooked, is celebrated with oversized measuring tapes, pencil shavings, erasers, pencil sharpeners and curls of iconic kraft paper. The windows were produced in collaboration with StudioXAG.

Saks Fifth Avenue Saks Fifth Avenue in New York City has unveiled a new window installation in tandem with the launch of the Sacai x New York Times ‘Truth’ collection. The New York Times ‘Truth’ campaign champions the role of independent journalism in holding power accountable to the facts. Sacai has created a limited edition T-shirt and hoodie incorporating The New York Times ‘Truth’ campaign for men and women.

21

visual merchandising

Macy’s This summer, tropical vibes and tribal sensations capture a global print and colour direction at Macy’s in New York, with surf and sporty elements strewn throughout for an eclectic aesthetic that hints at adventure and travel. Exotic palm leaves and lush greens characterise top-of-mind naturalistic prints, pushing forward a tropical vibe that is met by surf-inspired pops of retro 70s graphics.

‘Summer means trips, adventures, fun times with friends, and generally soaking up the sun and creating amazing memories,’ says Cassandra Jones, senior vice president of Macy’s Fashion.

‘We’ve really tapped into the energy of summer and pulled together a thrilling assortment of great finds across fashion, beauty and home, from bright prints and patterns that hint at tropical and tribal motifs along with sporty and utilitarian accents, to the latest in beauty to unleash a summer glow.’

Fendi The fall/winter windows at Fendi encourage you to open your heart and your eyes to the brand and the collection. The scheme is inspired by the ‘femininity and the ironic beauty embodied in the resort collection’, where graphic patterns have been transformed into amusing three-dimensional inflatables. Details in the windows all connect to the product, such as the vibrant colours mixed with gold and silver on the ice creams, the fur on the inflatable hearts, and the little scribbles used to embellish the benches.

Victorinox Victorinox has transformed its windows into a world full of colour for its latest travel campaign. The display features the Classic limited edition 2018 Swiss Army Knives with designs inspired by travel and entitled ‘places of the world’. An oversized Swiss Army Knife in the centre draws focus to the limited edition designs, which are arranged each side of it. The scheme was conceived, designed and produced in collaboration with DFROST Retail Identity and rolled out across Europe.

Photography: Simon Wagner

See more window schemes at

www.retail-focus.co.uk/vm

22

genesis-display.com GENESIS ad for retail focus 01-18.indd 1

19.12.17 10:33

Make Create Deliver

We work with world-leading brands to create compelling in-store experiences.

Scan to take a virtual tour of our new Showroom....

just point your camera Kesslers_International

Kesslers International

020 8522 3000

CENTRE STAGE pop & display

Standout POP displays from around the globe The Ambassador Theatre Group Green Room has created a flexible kiosk concept for two of London’s largest theatres, the Lyceum and the Apollo Victoria owned by the Ambassador Theatre Group. In the hustle and bustle of the busy foyer environment, the design concept for the kiosk uses high level illuminated signage and graphics, allowing theatre-goers to easily identify and navigate their way to the kiosk. At over 2.5m, the backwall display presents hero products and latest offers, which are imaginatively merchandised, creating standout for the kiosk.

With purchases made at very specific times — before performances and during intervals, usually within relatively short time-frames — it’s vital for customers to be served as efficiently as possible. The curved configuration of the display helps manage queues and allows customers to see the full range of drinks and snacks on offer at a glance. Once at the till, further counter height and low-level product ensure there’s plenty of opportunity for customers to make last-minute impulse purchases and also buy the all-important programme as a memory of their visit.

www.greenroomdesign.com

Converse MadeMe NYC X Goodhood For the first Converse collaboration with MadeMe NYC, Seen Displays designed and fabricated a 90’s inspired space within East London’s Goodhood, which explored the iconic energy of home entertainment and the nostalgia around the VHS rentals era.

Using the daring yellow colour from the capsule collection, a feature wall was stacked high with retro VHS cassettes, becoming motifs for the ‘be kind, rewind’ era, referencing our dismay at renting tapes which hadn’t been rewound. Nineties classic titles framed the elevated One Star sneaker colourways as merchandise inspired by the raver subculture was displayed on a white steel rail.

Bespoke designed sticker takeaways and fluffy white bedroom carpet created a shareworthy moment for customers visiting the store’s exhibition space.

www.seendisplays.com

25

pop & display

CENTRE STAGE Daylesford Daylesford, known for its award-winning organic farm and farm shops, was looking to repurpose a shelved area in the basement of its garden and homeware shop. The brief was simple — create a flexible, eye-catching display.

Unibox’s sister company, The Marketing Works installed the Magnetik display system to create a flexible, eye-catching display.

As the name suggests, Magnetik combines adjustable magnetic shelf clamps, which mount onto vertical tracks that integrate into the display itself, and a printed fabric graphic that cleverly disguises the brackets.

Magnetik system means it can be endlessly reconfigured by simply removing the magnetically attached shelf and tension fabric graphic, before adjusting the position of the magnets. Once repositioned, the fabric is easily pushed back into a channel on the frame, and each shelf snaps into place, creating the appearance of a floating product display.

Daylesford’s first display is based on the company’s Cosmos range of herb and botanical-based organic hand care.

www.themarketingworks.eu

Leicester City FC Kesslers has delivered a refurbishment of the Leicester City F.C. Fan Club Shop at the King Power Stadium in partnership with interior fit-out company, Newman Scott.

The scope was to support the launch of the 2018/09 adidas-sponsored football kit with a brand new interactive retail space, complete with new zones, a contemporary design, and all completed within a five-week window.

Designed by The Design Solution, the 929 sq m store welcomes fans with eye-catching displays and digital features.

Browsers entering the store are greeted by a curved digital wall, and are led into an interior that is decorated in a rustic yet industrial style, with an abundance of mesh, repurposed scaffold boards, raw steel and glass. Altogether, a dynamic shopper experience awaits the club’s supporters, retaining some football-inspired elements, such as astro turf hero spots and oversized football-esque dump bins, which add an element of fun and encourage increased engagement with browsing customers.

www.kesslers.com

26

column

Karl McKeever

Plastic fantastic Look around any swimming pool while on holiday this summer and you’re sure to be greeted by the sight of kids splashing around on giant inflatables in the shape of animals, birds, doughnuts... you name it. Despite pressuring their parents to pack them to take home, the vast majority of these are left discarded thanks to luggage allowances and lack of storage space (and use) back home. After all, how often will a giant inflatable turtle be used in a grey UK summer? Although, if you have paid £82 for a Sunnylife Tropical Island Inflatable from John Lewis, then… just maybe.

Summer is boom time for plastic use, with cutlery and cups used for picnics and BBQs. And to me, this sums up perfectly the subject of the latest media focus — single-use plastics. Items like straws and cutlery that we use once then discard, and which are causing growing environmental problems that we are only just sitting up and noticing. It’s why it’s heartening to hear that some UK summer festivals such as Boardmasters have signed up to reduce single-use plastics via a cup deposit scheme.

This spotlight has also led to a number of high-profile organisations scrambling to announce their latest measures in order to prove their own green credentials. McDonalds is banning plastic straws in the UK and plans that, by 2025, 100 per cent of its guest packaging will come from recycled, renewable or certified sources.

JD Wetherspoon pubs have replaced plastic straws with paper, with Pizza Express planning to soon follow suit.

So, where does retail fit into the great plastic debate? I find it intriguing that shoppers have a bag tax but retailers regularly use single-use plastics and discard them. If plastic use was entrenched in government policy, retailers could and would be leading the way.

Not only would this save us, and them, money, it would save our poor planet from being burdened with all this useless plastic.

By now most of us have seen that rather haunting picture of the seahorse wrapped around a cotton bud. A powerful image which perhaps sums up the magnitude of work to be done. A proposed EU initiative will ban the use of cotton buds, plastic cutlery and straws... but with the ubiquitous Brexit imminent, the UK will need to start making some strong decisions of our own.

And taking steps, I’m pleased to see, we are. The UK Plastics Karl McKeever is founder and managing director of visual merchandising and brand delivery consultancy Visual Thinking.

Email Karl at karl@retailfocus.co karlmckeever www.visualthinking.co.uk

Pact is an industry initiative designed to encourage supermarkets and food companies to reduce, recycle or compost their plastic packaging. Tesco, Morrisons, Waitrose, Lidl, Aldi and Sainsbury’s, among others, have already signed up. Supported by government, it is a worthy — though currently only voluntary — scheme. Interestingly, Parliament itself is joining in the attack on plastic, introducing compostable cups, replacing plastic water bottles with water dispensers and using refillable condiment containers instead of sachets. If the powers-that-be in government can take these steps then surely our more ‘user-friendly’ retailers can join in?

It’s heartening to see enlightened retailers taking their pledges above and beyond paying a little lip service to the issue. IKEA is planning to phase out all single-use plastics and reduce its overall dependence on plastics — and if you’ve ever been lost in a Market Street you’ll know this will affect many many (many) products! Good work from a company best known for flat-pack solutions.

Retailers need to follow this example and reach further back than simply shuffling what’s on their shelves or upping their recycling.

The most savvy will take a forensic look at their supply chain, looking at how they can switch to sustainable-use solutions instead.

For example, Waitrose is committed to making all its ownlabel packaging, such as food trays, widely recyclable, reusable or home compostable by 2025. Over the last nine years it has reduced its overall packaging by almost 50 per cent and became the first retailer to stop selling products containing the now-banned microbeads. Good work Waitrose. Oh and they aren’t selling plastic straws beyond September 2018. It seems the death of the plastic straw is fairly imminent.

Another retailer taking a hardline stance on the issue is Iceland.

It’s become the first UK retailer to eliminate plastic in all of its own-brand products and boldly pledged to be completely plastic free by 2023. Perhaps a surprising trailblazer, but I applaud them for having the guts to rise to the Goliath-like challenge and show true commitment and integrity.

Today, growing numbers of us are invested in using brands that support causes that are close to their hearts. And it’s hard to avoid the topic of plastic. Pleading lack of awareness of the issue is not going to cut any ice.

It’s time for retailers to wise up. No more excuses, no more glossing over the issue, no more passing the onus back to their shoppers. By putting a plastic-free policy at the heart of their operations they’ll prove they’re not just playing a one-trick PR game, but are serious about going green... for good.

29

project focus

Stella McCartney 23 Old Bond Street, London Design: In-house Opening date: June 2018 Store size: 700 sq m British fashion designer Stella McCartney opened her new global flagship store in June in a Grade II listed, 18th century building on Old Bond Street, London.

Spread across four levels, the 700 sq m store replaces the brand's nearby Bruton Street location and is built with customised experiences at the core, offering visitors new, unique and multisensory ways to engage with the world of Stella McCartney.

As the new global flagship, 23 Old Bond Street houses all of the brand's collections, including women's and menswear ready-to-wear, accessories, lingerie, kids and fragrance, amidst artistic, graphic and sound installations.

Designed by Stella McCartney and her team, the space celebrates the spirit of the brand, reflecting its modern approach to design, innovation and sustainability.

The building's original facade, including an ornate Edwardian entryway and a planted balcony, has been carefully preserved, providing a sharp contrast with the contemporary interior, which plays on texture, volume and light.

At the rear of the store, an imposing sculptural spiral raw steel staircase disrupts the space while guiding customers to all other floors. Meanwhile, fluted concrete walls in a range of textures from top to floor complement glass cubes cases, linear brass railings, and colourful ceramic gemstone fixtures, inspired by memories of McCartney's childhood playing with pebble dashed walls. All of the features are interchangeable to allow a fluid and reactive canvas for the merchandise on display.

The space epitomises the brand's playful spirit, from the so-called 'Stellavator', which is lined with pink Fur-Free-Fur material from previous collections, to the monochrome ball pool and climbing wall on the lower ground floor. Personal touches also decorate the walls of the fitting room, with hand embroidered 'Hands of Love' prints, created by Stella McCartney team members from around the world.

Further bringing personal emotion into the space is the use of sound, light and smell to create a multisensory experience.

30

Speakers strategically cast into concrete play spoken word recordings and an original sound collage specially created

by Paul McCartney, while on the second floor, alongside the menswear collection, handmade reggae-style speakers designed by artist Swifty, play tracks from Stella's personal vinyl collection.

Staying true to the brand's commitment to sustainability and innovation, every effort has been made to move away from traditional luxury materials, and to use more handmade, organic and sustainably sourced elements in the store design, in the same way that McCartney approaches her designs. This includes the introduction of Airlabs technology, which reduces exposure to air pollution inside buildings. The store is the first indoor commercial space in London to provide clean air using the technology, which removes 95 per cent of the air pollutants and harmful gases inside the building.

Other innovative design elements found throughout the store include bespoke decorative wall panels made from papier-mâchÊ that has been recycled from the company's office paper waste, foam furniture made of recycled materials,

project focus

Photography: Hufton+Crow

31

project focus

BNATURAL by Bonaveri biodegradable mannequins, and a bespoke indoor rockery named 'Stella Rocks'. The installation, on the ground floor, acts as a natural air purifier consisting of black limestone from a quarry in Stanhope in the country of Durham, and carefully selected rocks sourced from the McCartney farm in Campbeltown.

Finally, hidden behind a concealed door on the second floor is a 'Members and Non Members Only' club, which houses McCartney's personal family photos and furniture, allowing customers to further connect with the designer and the brand in an intimate and personal setting. The club will act as an interchangeable space that enables customers to further connect to the designer and the brand through various events and exhibitions.

Commenting on the new store, McCartney says: 'Old Bond Street, it's probably one of the most prestigious retail locations in the world. And for me being born and bred in London, and having our business headquarters there and design studio, it's incredibly prestigious for us. this store really tells the story of the World of Stella McCartney; incorporating sustainability, fashion, desirability and luxury.'

The flagship marks a new phase in the brand's continued retail expansion, following the store openings last year in Madison Avenue, New York, Rue St. Honore, Paris, Florence and South Coast Plaza.

32

@retailfocus

Advert 86mm wide x 127mm deep 10-05-2017

Dragon Display Systems

Plan.

Design.

Build.

Designed and Manufactured in the UK

Manufacturers of merchandising systems, especially for clothing-related retailers, including bespoke production.

Colour is no obstacle. www.dragondisplay.co.uk Visit lawcris.co.uk for all your decorative panel products.

34

Display Systems Ltd

Tel 01952 290055 • Fax: 01952 290056 • sales@dragondisplay.co.uk

project focus

project focus

Maison Alaïa New Bond Street, London

Photography: Agnese Sanvito

Design: Maison Alaïa and Aukett Swanke Opening date: April 2018 Store size: 560 sq m

French-Tunisian fashion designer Azzedine Alaïa personally finalised plans for the new Maison Alaïa flagship store on London's New Bond Street before his untimely death in 2017. The iconic couturier collaborated with Aukett Swanke on the design of the boutique, which opened in April, just ahead of a major exhibition of the late designer's work at the Design Museum in London.

The Maison Alaïa London flagship store is the first to open outside of Paris and houses all of the brand's collections, including ready-to-wear, shoes, bags and accessories.

Spread across three levels, the 560 sq m store draws on the architectural heritage of the existing building, while showcasing furniture and art chosen by Azzedine Alaïa together with close friend Carla Sozzani from around the world.

As you enter the store, the primary visual focus is the dramatic steel spiral staircase with clear glass balustrade, designed by American artist Kris Ruhs and fabricated by Ronchetti. The stairway links all three retail floors, as does a new glazed passenger lift at the rear of the space.

Lighting has been a key consideration throughout the project, with feature and display lighting all carefully considered and integrated, including the lining of the lift shaft and the light metal sculpture, designed by Kris Ruhs, which passes through the three floors. Dramatic sculptural lighting pendants by Marc Newson are also used to illuminate all three levels. Even the furniture and artwork celebrate the refraction of light and transparency.

The lighting design, developed in collaboration with Nulty, creates an environment that supports Azzedine Alaïa's idea that there is beauty in simplicity.

'The attention to detail within the project is second to none and adds to the uniqueness and identity of the store,' says Rebecca Hodge, intermediate lighting designer at Nulty. 'From the lighting design in the lift, to the bespoke lightboxes in the changing room, every element has been beautifully considered.'

35

project focus

Meanwhile, the interior finishes palette is restrained to provide a neutral backdrop to the furniture, sculptural displays and the merchandise.

Commenting on the project, Suzette Vela Burkett, managing director at Aukett Swanke, says: 'We are delighted to have worked with Richemont and the AlaĂŻa team on this elegant flagship store. The project has unveiled a new face on 139 New Bond Street and enabled close working with artisans and the designers at AlaĂŻa and to provide a fitting tribute to the brand.'

Azzedine AlaĂŻa: The Couturier is the first fashion exhibition for the new Design Museum in Holland Park and runs until 7 October 2018.

36

EXHIBITING iN COLLABORATION AT PARIS RETAIL WEEK - SUPPLIERS OF CREATIVE RETAIL SOLUTIONS

HIRE PURCHASE BESPOKE retail focus 1.indd 1

PARIS RETAIL WEEK

WWW.HOL-GROUP.COM

WWW.PLINTHS.LONDON

SHOWROOM

STAND H054

INFO@ HOL-GROUP.COM

INFO@ PLINTHS.LONDON

10.11.12 SEPTEMBER 2018

+44 (0) 208 885 3055

+44 (0) 207 117 2805

103 KING’S CROSS ROAD LONDON WC1X 9LP

PARIS EXPO, PORTE DE VERSAILLES, PARIS 75015

@ THEHOLGROUP

@ PLINTHS.LONDON

20/08/2018 21:51

project focus

Harrods Fine Watches Knightsbridge, London Design: Rundell Associates Opening date: July 2018 Store size: 1,667 sq m With 10 large boutiques and a multibrand area, as well as VIP suites and a special aftercare service, the Fine Watches department at Harrods is the ultimate destination for haute horology. The newly expanded and redeveloped space, which houses such brands as Hublot, Panerai, Rolex and Roger Dubuis, now occupies two floors adjoining the Fine Jewellery Room and has its own dedicated entrance on Hans Road.

There are five boutiques on each floor as well as a retro Italian Riviera-inspired restaurant on the lower ground floor.

Designed by Rundell Associates, the department features a sweeping, marble-lined staircase beneath a vaulted ceiling, with leather-lined walls, terrazzo floor and fine bronze detailing throughout.

The face of the curved central staircase is crafted from a single block of Cipollino Tirrenia, with intricate veining that has a strong graphic appeal along its route from the ground floor down to the lower ground floor.

The staircase, ground and lower ground floor are laid with bespoke Italian Terrazzo flooring that features iridescent mother of pearl fragments to enliven the pale cream background. It is also embedded with bronze inlay strips to echo the detailing on a watch face.

The balustrades of the staircase and balcony are formed from patinated bronze, shaped to reflect the oval opening that has been created between the floors, and topped by handrails clad in leather with a profile inspired by fine leather watch straps.

Both the staircase handrails and the pale leather walls that run throughout the space have been created by Bill Amberg, with the use of leather intended to soften the ambience of the space.

Rundell Associates has reinforced this calming atmosphere by using materials designed to soften the acoustic resonance of the rooms. A domed lighting feature is crafted in the ceiling above the grand staircase; it's oval shape harking back to the spirit and grandeur of the lightwells that were once a feature of Harrods. 'The light level from this feature is programmed to

38

Image: Rundell Associates

project focus

39

project focus

Image: Rundell Associates

Image: Rundell Associates

mimic the external daylight levels, giving a subtle reference to the passage of time,' explains a spokesperson for Rundell.

The space around the lightwell forms a generous gallery, linking the entrances to the boutiques and allowing free and unrestricted circulation around the room, while allowing clear sightlines to the boutiques below.

Indirect cove lighting has been used throughout the department, while specialist lighting has been designed for wall cabinets and general display to maximise the visual impact of watches on show.

'The redevelopment of Fine Watches showcases our commitment and dedication to offering the best in class to our customers,' says Helen David, chief merchant at Harrods. 'There is nowhere else like it in the world and we pride ourselves on retaining our position as the ultimate luxury shopping destination. The new space pays tribute to our exceptional watch portfolio and provides the perfect environment to showcase some of the world's most sought after timepieces. Fine Watches is one of the first areas in store to be redeveloped as part of Harrods' masterplan and we're very excited to unveil the new department.'

40

A “Royal Flush” of six majestic colours with a luxury silk texture & metallic shimmer effect....

Order your Perspex ® acrylic samples online to reveal all 6 colours.

Perspex® is a registered trademark of Lucite International.

www.perspex.co.uk

preview

London

Design Festival

2018

London Design Festival turns sweet 16 this September with nine days of landmark projects, installations and events, all happening across the city.

London Design Festival returns to the capital from 15-23 September with a series of city-wide installations and events. Since launching in 2003, the festival has earned the reputation as a key calendar moment of the city’s autumn creative season, alongside London Fashion Week, Frieze, Art Fair and the London Film Festival, attracting a global community of designers, artists, architects and retailers.

‘London and design go hand in hand,’ claims Ben Evans, director of London Design Festival. ‘It is part of our story. London Design Festival is a platform for hundreds of design stories to be told. Each of them talks to an expanding audience hungry for design ideas and enjoying the quality and diversity of what’s on offer.’

With many landmark projects, installations and events taking place across London, here are our highlights.

V&A Museum This year, London Design Festival celebrates 10 years with the V&A as the official festival hub. For the nine days of the festival, visitors to the museum will be able to explore a range of special displays and installations, from an interactive modular maze-like installation in The Sackler Courtyard to a project inspired by the First World War concept of Dazzle. Global Design Forum will also return to the V&A with a series of talks, discussions and workshops.

Top : Time for Tea, Fortnum & Mason Top right: Bethan Gray for Anthropologie Right: MultiPly, an interactive modular maze-like installation in The Sackler Courtyard at the V&A.

Time for Tea, Fortnum & Mason Dutch design studio Scholten & Baijings will create a contemporary tea installation in the first floor of Fortnum & Mason, Piccadilly.

Using more than 80 products, designed by companies from across the globe, Scholten & Baijings will deliver a unique take on the ritual of tea, set on a six-metre-long table. Visitors will be invited to immerse themselves in the daily tea party, held throughout the nine days of the festival.

London Design Biennale The 2018 London Design Biennale will be devoted to the theme, Emotional States. National entries will explore how design affects every aspect of our lives — the way we live and how we live — but can also influence our very being, our emotions and experiences.

Installations will explore the full spectrum of emotional life, from happiness to anger, sadness to disgust. Visceral exhibits and experiences will evoke moods and explore a particular country’s design story. Together the responses to the theme will present

43

preview

Right: Cameron Design House will team up with LA-based balloon artist Geronimo to create a lighting installation. an exciting laboratory of ideas that will investigate the important relationship between design, strong emotional responses and real social needs. designjunction Launched in 2011 by a team of design industry experts, designjunction connects the world’s most renowned design brands with leading architects, interior designers, specifiers and buyers.

This year, the event is moving to the cultural hub of London’s South Bank, where it will expand over three sites; Doon Street site, Oxo Tower Wharf and Riverside Walkway, all of which are owned and managed by Coin Street Community Builders. The Doon Street site will house 200 international design brands and premium pop-up shops, while the Riverside Walkway will showcase a series of outdoor installation projects. Oxo Tower Wharf will host major brand activations, exhibitions and experiential events.

100% Design At the heart of the newly formed West Kensington Design District, 100% Design is the destination for architects and designers to source the latest products, discover new interior design trends and emerging brands. New for 2018, the show will present 100% Futures, an exhibition showcasing a selection of designs geared towards ‘Designing for London’. Spearheaded by Max Fraser, a small jury will select 20 projects, created by designers with less than five years in industry who have designed cutting-edge work based around the future of city living. Alongside this, 100% Design brings together more than 400 international design brands as well as a range of innovative projects from the likes of Tesla and Riko by Starck.

CDH x Geronimo As part of London Design Festival, British lighting brand Cameron Design House will team up with Los Angeles-based balloon artist Geronimo to create a unique, immersive lighting installation in the heart of Shoreditch. Exploring the contrasting themes of temporary versus timeless, and organic versus engineered, the multisensory collaboration promises an engaging visual experience on the relationship between light, latex and luxury.

Kellenberger-White: Alphabet Known for its playful approach to typefaces, Kellenberger-White has designed a new series of alphabet chairs, supported by festival headline partner, British Land. An experiment in folding metal to create a typographic system, the chairs are informed by research into László Moholy-Nagy, Marianne Brandt and Wilhelm Wagenfeld.

Each chair is in a different colour, chosen from a specialist paint manufacturer used for industrial metalwork. The alphabet will be installed in Finsbury Avenue Square in Broadgate.

Bethan Gray for Anthropologie To celebrate the launch of Anthropologie’s collaboration with Welsh designer Bethan Gray, the Regent Street store will host an ‘in conversation’ event on 18 September with lifestyle journalist Fiona McCarthy.

Qualia; The future of human connection As humans, we naturally connect with environments intuitively, so why are we building experiences for data and analytics

44

instead of emotional response? Committed to contributing to the physical landscape of retail, Seen Displays invites visitors to an all-encompassing installation to embark on an explorative journey of gradual discovery which aims to intentionally create feelings of wonder, surprise and ultimate connection. Seen Displays will partner with Olivia Aspinall Studio to offer an exclusive insight into the steps involved in the making process as it becomes just as important as the final product. not just a shop Not just a shop in High Holborn sells design products and artwork by those who studied at University of the Arts London’s (UAL) six leading arts colleges. During London Design Festival, the store will extend its opening hours and run a series of designer-maker workshops, while illustrator Martina Paukova will create a playful installation for the not just a shop window.

Design Districts The Design Districts are a key component of the festival makeup, with each Design District constituting a cluster of events within a short walking distance of each other.

Bankside Brompton Clerkenwell Design Quarter Fitzrovia *NEW Marylebone *NEW Mayfair Pimlico Regent Street & St James’s *NEW Shoreditch Victoria Connections West Kensington *NEW

When and where London, 15-23 September 2018 For a full list of events taking place during London Design Festival 2018, visit www.londondesignfestival.com

Feelwood: Decors have never looked so real.

Egger Decorative Collection 2017 – 2019

Feel the texture of real wood with our synchronised pore technology.

Develop exciting new designs for your next project. Create a high-quality, natural finish with EGGER’s premium, lightfast and durable Feelwood surfaces. Available in matching decorative panels, laminates and three layered edging. Featured decor: H3406 ST38 Anthracite Mountain Larch.

» Find out more at www.egger.com/feelwood

travel retail

ALL ABOARD:

TRAVEL RETAIL The future of travel retail should be calm, relaxing and stress-free, finds Retail Focus.

For passengers travelling from airports and train stations, particularly at unsociable hours, the last thing they want is a stressful retail experience. Especially at airports, where some passengers are nervous flyers, stressed and tired. It can be somewhat overwhelming for those who just want to catch their flight on time and find the nearest coffee stop.

Rail With the completion of Crossrail edging nearer, travel is about to get a lot easier and more convenient for passengers wanting to cross London quickly, and that means a host of new retail experiences (The remaining Elizabeth Line is scheduled to open on 9 December 2018). Crossrail has integrated the designs for 12 major property developments over and around its central London stations and other key infrastructure as part of the project. Development plans cover more than 278,709 sq m of high quality office, retail and residential space between Paddington and Woolwich.

The new-look Tottenham Court Road station has cost £1 billion to redevelop. ‘Crossrail is not just delivering major new stations in the West End but transforming the areas around the stations.

It is the site of our largest property development and urban regeneration programme, which will deliver new retail, office, residential space, new squares, paths and greenery, and attract new businesses and customers,’ said Andrew Wolstenholme, Crossrail chief executive, when work began on the station. The development includes 46,451 sq m of premium retail, office and residential accommodation above the ticket halls at the corner of Charing Cross Road and Oxford Street, and the corner of Oxford Street and Dean Street. It also includes a new West End theatre.

London Bridge, part of the Thameslink Programme, has undergone a £1 billion redevelopment, including a huge new concourse, modern facilities, two new entrances on Tooley Street and 15 fully accessible platforms. It also includes 8,547 sq m of new retail and more than 70 retail units — the most ever in a Network Rail station.

‘The transformation of London Bridge station is one of the most ambitious projects that Network Rail has undertaken. It gives us the opportunity to use our expertise to create a great environment and produce a retail offer that exceeds people’s expectations,‘ says Hamish Kiernan, commercial director of retail for Network Rail property.

‘We understand that stations, large and small, and their

46

surrounding areas are increasingly becoming the hubs of modern local communities. They are being recognised as places where people can travel, live, work and play, and at the same time provide the catalyst for housing, regeneration and economic growth in our towns and cities.

‘As such we’re working exceptionally hard to bring in established, quality brands and create a diverse and eclectic mix of retailers, food and beverage outlets, and places for entertainment,’ says Kiernan.

The third busiest railway station in Scotland, Glasgow Queen Street, is being expanded to form a larger facility with superior services for growing passenger numbers. The station platforms will be expanded to accommodate eight-car trains, and the overhead line on the high-level platforms of the station will be electrified as part of the £120 million redevelopment. The waiting areas, entrances, and catering and retail spaces will also be extended, and new lighting and public address systems will be installed.

Air Airside, CallisonRTKL has worked, and is currently working, on duty-free retail for Singapore Changi, Incheon and Hong Kong International. Rather than designing individual stores, the company is creating defined districts within retail.

‘Travel retail has become a more sophisticated and engaging experience. Retailers are quickly moving away from store layouts based purely on efficiency and with the same line-up of brands to spaces that encourage longer dwell times, shop-in-shop layouts and a wider mix of brands, category types and local merchandise.

Operators are also offering more opportunities for customers to engage directly with products. Virtual mirrors allow customers to try on makeup and digital touch screens allow customers to learn about different types, tastes and price points of whiskey,’ says Kevin Horn, vice president of CallisonRTKL. In terms of new experiences in travel retail, Horn says retailers are providing a higher level of service, programme and amenities.

‘Cosmetic and perfume stores offer spa treatments for those long layovers as well as personal beauty consultants. Wine and spirit stores offer tasting events and brand ambassadors who can help select the perfect bottle of scotch. Programmed pop-up events are also starting to make their way into airport retail with a focus on promoting exclusive brands that can only be purchased in airport locations,’ says Horn.

travel retail

Text: Lyndsey Dennis

Above: CallisonRTKL created a defined retail district within the new Terminal 2 at Incheon International Airport, South Korea, including a sculptural digital element, The Infinity Loop.

Left: gpstudio’s Beauty&You concept for The Shilla Duty Free at Hong Kong International Airport.

Below left: The Western Arcade in the refurbished London Bridge station includes retailers such as MAC, Ted Baker and Cath Kidston.

Below: Designed by Lumsden, the Harry Potter store in Heathrow T5 brings a touch of Hogwarts magic to passengers.

CallisonRTKL recently completed projects for both Shilla Duty Free on the operator’s side and Incheon Airport Authority on the airport side for the new Terminal 2 at Incheon, the largest airport in South Korea. ‘Working with the airport authority we provided planning and design strategy and criteria for the creation of a defined retail district within the terminal. We also designed a sculptural digital element, The Infinity Loop, that acts as an iconic anchor within the district. Working with Shilla we designed eight perfume and cosmetic stores, which include shop-in-shop layouts in the larger locations as well as various digital applications for merchandise promotion and customer engagement,’ explains Horn.

Gregor Jackson, founding partner of gpstudio, says travel retail

now offers a far deeper customer engagement through digital and physical initiatives. ‘Previously, “travel retail” was bordering on being a derogative term, and was price driven, stack it high and shift in volume. Now its developing into being a shopping choice and destination rather than simply a tag on to a journey. It has a long way to go, and a historic persona to still shake off, but is making genuine advancements.’

He says retailers are not just thinking about the ‘moment’ but now developing connectivity with the consumer prior to the airport, at the airport, during travel, and at their destination and beyond. ‘Any smartphone activity that connects the consumer with your brand can only produce traction and ultimately loyalty.

47

travel retail

The physical travel retail experience is closer aligning itself to the downtown retail experience,’ says Jackson. gpstudio’s most recent project (opening in July) was for The Shilla Duty Free at Hong Kong International Airport, across all beauty sectors at six sites. ‘The brief was “where fashion meets beauty”, taking cues from luxury high street retail, an immersive environment, products and services in an atmosphere of discovery and interactivity. Taking inspiration from Hong Kong itself, where the experience of natural tranquil is juxtaposed against a high-octane urban environment, the “Beauty&You” brand was born,’ says Jackson.

Callum Lumsden, creative director at Lumsden, notes the work of F&B operators within the travel sector in recent years. ‘What I am observing recently is a gradual, strategic change of the types of retailers and food outlets being signed up. This has been led by the F&B sector in particular, with brands such as Gordon Ramsey, The Grain Stores and YO! Sushi successfully bringing a touch of fun and theatre back to airside passengers,’ says Lumsden. He notes in particular, the Metropolitan Museum Store at JFK Airport and the Muji ‘To Go’ store at Hong Kong Airport — ‘full of great travel products of every description’ — as examples of something different and innovative.

Lumsden’s most recent airport retail project is the Harry Potter store in Heathrow T5, bringing a touch of Hogwarts magic to passengers. The store is soon to be relocated into a bigger space due to its enormous popularity. ‘It stands out designwise against its competitors in the gift sector due to creative theming and brings a breath of fresh air to a traveller’s pre-flight experience,’ says Lumsden. ‘I believe it is testament to just how open travellers are to an experiential offer no matter how anxious they might be before catching a flight.’

Ollie Patterson, marketing manager at Mynt Design, spends a lot of time travelling for work. ‘The thing I’ve noticed the most is the scale of the airports, particularly in Germany, has grown. Some of these areas feel a lot less chaotic than certain UK airports. The experience is much more relaxed and the calmness certainly helps to encourage dwell time in-store. I’m looking forward to revisiting Dubai later in the year to see first-hand the updates in travel retail there, and also I’ll be visiting new regions of Asia for the first time and again, look forward to these experiences,’ says Patterson.

‘We’re hearing a lot of talk about the evolution of airport retail, but in reality, we don’t think the experience will radically change for a long time.’

Airports can be some of the busiest and most stressful places at times. ‘Have you ever had the pleasure of a 6am flight from Stansted? I have. Hideous,’ adds Patterson.

‘There are talks of these types of stores becoming high-techled environments with integrated online experiences and rewards for customer loyalty. The truth is, no one has time for that level of concentration at an airport. We should be using technology to make the consumers’ lives easier, and less stressful and complicated,’ he believes. ‘These stores need to act as relaxing escapes from the bustling restaurants and central foyers. Simple sensory additions in store such as live plants, ambient lighting, calming music, well-crafted and playful projection mapping, etc. will help to drastically change the pace from the struggle of having to navigate busy airport seating areas and, in turn, will encourage more people to visit these stores. The stores don’t need to feel flat, they just don’t need to be overly high-tech.

Investing in genuine customer relationships and adding relevant value to their airport experience, in my view, is key to a successful travel retail concept.’

A £120 million redevelopment of Glasgow Queen Street station includes extended retail space.

48

Designed and manufactured in the UK by Hacel, the new stylish and sculpted Aspen® range of LED Pendants offer excellent light distribution and performance. Hosting a classic design with perfect proportions, the Aspen® is a versatile solution for a wide range of applications.

Available in Aspen®, Aspen® Ice and Aspen® Opal allowing for flexibility in creating inspirational mixed compositions or used as a single, sophisticated focal point to optimise surrounding architecture.

Our stunning Product Portfolio and Catalogue 17 presents a dynamic range of architecturally inspired, class leading LED luminaires with superior performance.

Request your high quality catalogue at marketing@hacel.co.uk or Download Now at www.hacel.co.uk/downloads

www.hacel.co.uk

Aspen

®

industry brief

LCF x Checkland Kindleysides:

Third Spaces Students on the MA Fashion Retail Management course at London College of Fashion have responded to an industry brief set by design agency Checkland Kindleysides with impressive results.

As part of its ongoing relationship with London College of Fashion, UAL, design consultancy Checkland Kindleysides this year set the industry brief for students taking the MA Fashion Retail Management course. The brief, which formed part of the Creative Retail Spaces Unit, centred around non-transactional experiences and tasked students with researching, defining and designing a third space in-store that would creatively articulate a chosen brand’s purpose and translate it across multiple touchpoints.

‘Purpose is now fundamental to any future-focused retailer,’ says Mike Tristram, strategic planner at Checkland Kindleysides, who was involved in setting the brief. ‘In order to build meaningful connections and emotionally engage with today’s enlightened and eco-conscious consumers, morals, ethics, business practices, viewpoints and future visions are high on the consumer agenda.

Brands now need to clearly articulate these across numerous touchpoints in a clear, coherent and ownable way, to not only generate sales but to nurture consumer/brand allegiances in a post-loyalty landscape.’

The students had three months from when the brief was set to develop a strategic proposal for a chosen brand, outlining how they would use the third space and how it would relate to the online touchpoints of the brand.

‘As well as more traditional retail considerations, brands increasingly need to strategically navigate and respond to cultural, technological and social influences at speed,’ states Tristram.

‘Credible brands must be resolute on their core values yet agile enough to respond to the context of their target consumers’

50

ever-changing lifestyles and expectations.’

Out of the seven groups, the LCF tutors pre-selected the three best proposals, which were then presented to Checkland Kindleysides in June for consideration for the prize of a £200 gift voucher for German Gymnasium. The three final projects included a techno-inspired event space/nightclub for Camper, a grower’s greenhouse for The Body Shop and a tech-driven airport lounge for Uniqlo.

Commenting on the winning scheme, Amanda Marshall, senior designer at Checkland Kindleysides, says: ‘We chose The Body Shop proposal as it was well-considered and completely relevant for the brand, in terms of translating its ethics, values and brand purpose. The idea centred around “environmental therapy” and “anxiety reducing interiors” which was inspiring. Using a retail/ branded space to tackle social and cultural issues was a really clever idea and something that really excited us.

‘There was clear justification behind the architecture, natural materials, product displays/VM etc, but there was also thinking beyond the design of the physical space, such as the events/ activities and the packaging. While the core idea was very conceptual, the proposal as a whole felt like the start of something that could definitely become commercially viable, scalable and completely ownable for The Body Shop.’

The team drew inspiration from the likes of Apple, Aesop, Dior and the Royal Botanical Gardens as well as The Body Shop’s ‘Enrich Not Exploit’ commitment for its multisensory experience.

‘It was so exciting to work on a brief that enabled us to

industry brief

demonstrate our creative and research skills,’ say the winning group. ‘The project taught us the importance of consumer experiences developed through an understanding of the consumer journey. As a team we really enjoyed collaborating each other, with different skills and ideas. We are delighted to propose an idea that presents a fresh perspective for a retail space for the Body Shop.’

The MA Fashion Retail Management course is aimed at students who wish to pursue a management or creative career in omnichannel fashion retailing, to shape current and future international fashion retailing strategy and operations.

Reflecting on the project, LCF course director, Bethan Alexander says: ‘It has been fantastic to collaborate for the

second year running with Checkland Kindleysides on our Creative Retail Spaces Unit. Our students are diverse, coming from c. 25 different countries and with varying backgrounds and experience.

The ability to leverage their multiple skills — strategy and insight, research, creativity and innovation — in the visualisation of a retail concept, has been an incredible experience. Working in partnership with industry encourages interaction, engagement and professionalism, and serves to demonstrate the rich rewards for all that such amazing knowledge exchange opportunities offer.’

www.arts.ac.uk/fashion

www.checklandkindleysides.com

51

opinion

Business Improvement Districts (BIDs) are the way forward Only when a place has cohesive management can it be successful, believes Clare Bailey, founder of The Retail Champion and Future High Street Summit.

There seems to be an unending debate between government and experts, think tanks and associations, about what the future of our towns, cities and high streets will be. Way back in 2011 we saw the publication of the Portas review, commissioned by the government, which was largely ignored. Not long after, there was the first Grimsey review – un-commissioned, so even more ignored.

Only recently, there was a second Grimsey review; again un-commissioned, again likely to be ignored.

The challenges to our high streets, towns, and cities, are well-documented.

It is no secret that some areas have far too much retail space due to overdevelopment. Business rates make trading from physical space too costly to be profitable in some areas. Cost and availability of parking is a barrier, footfall has been falling during traditional opening hours for years, opening hours often conflict with when those who have highest disposable incomes are able to get out and about… the list of issues goes on.

However, there is one truth — people still want to shop. They still spend, and they expect a great experience, but the definition of ‘a great experience’ varies from person to person, according to what it is they want to achieve from their shopping trip. Convenience might be the key factor if the customer just wants to grab something to cook for dinner tonight, whereas inspiration and the ‘wow factor’ might be important if gift shopping or treating yourself. So, without a crystal ball, retailers and consumer-facing businesses do have something of a challenge on their hands when attempting to predict the current and future needs and wants of their customers.

So, what does that mean for our high streets in the future? Do we have to assume that all retail will go online and our high

streets be turned over to residential, office use, cafes and charity shops? I think not.

Granted, there is definitely the need for repurposing retail space where it is evident that the community it was once designed to service is no longer able to sustain the necessary spending levels to guarantee profitable trade. But, I believe there are two considerations that will shape the future of our high streets. One, blending the physical and digital environments, and two, cohesive town centre management.

Blurring the lines In 2017, I supported Amazon’s ‘Home of Black Friday’, a pop-up experience on Soho Square. It was a retail space that allowed customers to interact with product, get advice, try things, and then make purchases, digitally, via the Amazon App (for home delivery or collection using Prime Now at the shop). There was no stock, no cash and no tills. It was a perfect illustration of how retailers with a portfolio of physical stores could use technology to deliver a great customer experience, seamlessly blending the digital with real-world to excite and delight the customer.

I predict successful town centres in future will be full of innovative businesses, taking advantage of technology such as virtual and augmented reality, 3D printing for uniquely customised products, and that shops will be showrooms and fulfilment centres, offering a blend of cashless ecommerce with showcased products and expert advice.

Collaboration is key

organisation. They have a dedicated marketing team who create engaging activities to draw in the crowds. They have a single maintenance team to ensure the environment is safe and inviting. Without a similar approach to place management, across the macro customer experience, our town centres simply can’t compete. Local authorities have some funds to support professional town centre management, but with increasingly tight budgets, the impact they can make is limited.

I believe business improvement districts (BIDs) are the way forward — a collectively funded partnership between all stakeholders — landlords, businesses, members of the public, local authority etc. Only when a place has cohesive management can it be successful. It doesn’t take vast investment to transform a place. Derby’s Cathedral Quarter, Winners of National BID of the Year at the ATCM Awards 2016, is a fantastic case study that proves this. When a holistic approach is taken to defining who the high street, town or city centre is serving, and what their needs and wants are, then it is relatively straightforward to put in place actions to deliver a successful outcome for that place.

Without my own crystal ball, I can’t possibly predict what towns will look like in 10-20 years. After all, it’s only been 11 years since the first iPhone came to market and that has transformed the world. I can predict that the pace of change will be rapid, that success depends on being obsessively focused on the customers’ needs and wants, and, that those businesses who embrace innovation will most likely be the winners.

There is a reason why shopping centres and retail parks do well — cohesive place management under a single

53

#retailexchange

MALL OVERHAUL The latest episode of The Retail Exchange podcast explores the future of shopping centres.

Text: Lyndsey Dennis

Participants:

Ben Bland Host

Emma Robinson Assistant director, asset management, Hammerson

Shopping malls are where you can find everything under one roof. They have been with us for decades, but are these — usually gigantic — developments still as relevant as they once were? How will mall owners keep enticing shoppers in the years ahead?

Will the anchor store still be the big draw, and what will the mall experience of tomorrow look like? In our latest episode of The Retail Exchange, broadcaster Ben Bland sits down with senior industry thinkers to discuss.

Do malls still have thAT same pull they once did back in the 1990’s?

‘Since arriving in London 10 years ago, Westfield London and Westfield Stratford City have welcomed 533 million visitors, and generated over £15.3 billion in sales, so I would certainly say, yes, malls do have the same pull that they did have, but what is key to that really is creating something more than just a traditional retail environment,’ says Myf Ryan, chief marketing officer at Westfield. ‘It has to be more than just shops, it now has to be a combination of food and dining, leisure, entertainment, of something that will get people away from their computers and into a physical environment.’

Emma Robinson, assistant director, asset management at Hammerson, agrees: ‘I think they definitely still have something to offer and we are seeing a polarisation in the market where people are looking to the larger, regional malls. As retailers are deciding to open fewer new stores, at the moment, given the market conditions, we need to make sure that we’re creating the right environments to attract them and there’s definitely still a lot of demand. Particularly at the Bullring Estate which I’m responsible for, we’ve seen it evolve over the last 15 years since Bullring opened and Selfridges arrived in Birmingham, and we’re now seeing an increase in footfall; over

Myf Ryan Chief marketing officer, Westfield

Nick Guy Director, CallisonRTKL

Easter we had five per cent more people than last year so we just need to make sure that we’ve got really exciting new brands, we understand who our customers are and as Myf said, we really understand how to engage with them and create some theatre and really make sure that the experience they have, when they come for a day out, is as good as it could be.’

‘Nick, if the picture that Myf and Emma create of malls being so successful is correct, you must be rushed off your feet as an architectural firm, with people wanting to build them all over the place?’ asks host Ben Bland.

‘We are busy it’s true. But there’s not that many new ones being built, but most owners have a portfolio of existing shopping centres that are not doing their best, so they need to think how those work and what to do to improve them and bring them up to date for what we’ve just been talking about. I think we try not to talk about malls anymore. At work, we call them shopping and entertainment districts, so it doesn’t matter whether it’s covered or open, it’s just about place making and what people need, so the focus is the people who are going to visit, the customers now. The strength used to be in the retailers, they thought they’d go somewhere and people would come; that doesn’t happen anymore. It’s the experience you get and your journey there, what happens while you’re there, how long you want to spend, what you feel about that place and what your day out is like, that’s what we think about first of all,’ says Nick Guy, director at Callison RTKL. Robinson notes the importance of food & beverage (F&B) within today’s malls: ‘F&B is a really key part looking at the day out, and you need to differentiate yourself and have something that isn’t in the rest of the city.’

Ryan adds: ‘We probably look at food and beverage now more as a new anchor to our shopping centres and again, I also

55

#retailexchange

3

‘We call them shopping and entertainment districts.’ agree with Nick in that it’s not about a shopping centre or a mall anymore, it’s about a destination, and if mall owners aren’t focused on creating destinations they probably won’t exist in the not too distant future.’

Do malls need anchor stores anymore?

‘At Westfield London we’ve just completed the £600 million extension and the one store that has been requested in Westfield London, since we opened 10 years ago, is John Lewis, and we have just opened a 230,000 sq ft store and it is unbelievable. It is incredibly busy, it’s beautifully done, it’s John Lewis’ 50th store, but I think what all anchor stores have to do is actually continually re-invent, change and adapt themselves to make sure they are delivering what consumers need. Consumer behaviour changes so frequently, malls can’t stay the same; anchor stores can’t stay the same either. The key anchor stores of today such as John Lewis, House of Fraser, Debenhams, Marks and Spencers, they are continually looking at ways that they can adapt and change 7 themselves, to deliver to that new consumer,’ says Ryan.

Robinson says department stores are particularly strong in

56

terms of online sales and using click-and-collect to drive sales performance. ‘It’s something that we collaborate very closely on with our anchor stores, particularly Selfridges who has a really strong offering in Birmingham, so I think we can work a lot with them and learn from each other,’ she adds.

‘That point is a very interesting one in terms of click-and-collect and what we see at Westfield is consumers who use click-andcollect actually then spend 40 per cent more in-store than those who don’t use click-and-collect. So it’s a very important relationship I think for mall owners and anchor stores, and even non-anchor stores who do offer click-and-collect, to build, to be able to deliver to that consumer desire of still ordering online but wanting to go and pick up in a physical environment,’ says Ryan.

‘When it comes to designing malls and the structure of them, is the anchor store concept still something that you go back to or is that no longer a design feature anymore?’ asks Bland.

‘No, it’s definitely there. In the projects I work on, the one I currently have, all three anchors have re-assessed what their building should be in the course of the early design and they’ve all got smaller — not massively smaller — but they’ve all down-sized their requirements because they’ve thought about what they’re going to do and how they’re going to deliver the same product if you like, their experience in a smaller space. It’s partly to do with the cost of building and also sustainability — big buildings cost a lot to run; if they can do it smaller, deliveries are now different, they

‘It’s about a destination.’

#retailexchange

don’t need to have big stock rooms because of online, so they can focus on the customer experience, offer the customer the same better experience, get more staff front of house dealing with people and less people around the building looking after how it works, and therefore they’re more important than ever in a way because they’ve really honed-down their operation,’ says Guy. He notes the new John Lewis at Westfield London and the one in Birmingham. Speaking of the latter, he says: ‘It’s a slightly smaller store than they’ve had before but they’ve fitted it into a great space.

When I was in there I was really impressed with the way you moved around it and how the staff approached you.’

Whilst there is still a huge amount of space that they’ve allocated to that store, Ryan says John Lewis is using that space slightly differently. ‘They have put in a lot of other services that they’ve never had before, so there’s a nail bar, a hair salon, they’re doing a whole heap of personal styling, there are areas within the store where consumers can do classes, so I think anchor stores are looking at this market in the same way that mall owners are, which is using that space but in a very different way to adapt to how consumers now want to shop.’

The impact of online shopPING ‘I think that brands are now looking for the right locations for their stores and then they are right-sizing their stores. At Westfield London, Zara has taken a huge amount of additional space and we now have the largest Zara store within the UK. We have a very new flagship store which is Adidas. So stores are actually looking at where they are and making sure they’ve got the right amount of space allocated to that particular location, but with online, all of these brands are still looking at online as a way of communicating with their consumers. It’s not a separate channel completely, but it

#retailexchange

‘Creating something more than just a traditional retail environment.’ is a way that a consumer wants to touch that brand,’ says Ryan.

Robinson agrees: ‘We’ve even had VW come into Bullring, who want to have a location where they can engage more with their target customers because, at the moment, you often need to go to an out-of-town site to go and buy a new car. We are going towards more of a showrooming environment and it’s where brands can actually give people an opportunity, as Myf said, to try on a product or sit in a chair, or sit in a new car, and we need to make sure that we have the right physical environment from an architectural point of view and look at the whole experience of a day out. We are seeing more and more retailers looking at omnichannel and we’ve just launched a transactional website as well. If they think of Bullring as a place to go for physical shopping, they can also use it for online shopping, and we have a style seeker app as well so that if people are looking for a particular product — they’ve seen a bag that they like — they can take a photograph of it on their mobile phone, use the Bullring app and then find other stores that sell that product or a similar product. In relation to click-and-collect, if you go and try a new store, usually people tend to visit four or five different brands. But if you go and find a new store that you haven’t been to before, you’re more likely to spend more money there and we’re seeing quite significant sales growth as a result of that.’

To listen to the full episode, visit www.theretailexchange.co.uk

John Lewis at Westfield London includes a host of new services.

57

opinion

Why Westfield’s vision for the future of retail is bright As Westfield unveils its Destination 2028 concept, Myf Ryan, CMO Europe and group director of brand and strategic marketing for Unibail-Rodamco-Westfield, asks, what does the future hold for retail?

It’s a question that’s moved from government and industry forums to dinner debate and the high street over the last year. And what’s clear is how passionate the British public are about shopping. That’s an opportunity none of us should ignore. Because, despite current uncertainty, there’s one thing I’m sure of: the future of retail is more exciting than ever.

It’s more than a feeling. At Westfield we revealed a robust outlook in June, with a 6.7 per cent uplift in year-on-year footfall, having welcomed more than 7.8 million shoppers to Westfield London and Westfield Stratford City. Now we’re forecasting a record tourism season.

The numbers demonstrate the continued strength of our retail, leisure, dining and entertainment offer at both our London centres. What sits behind them reinforces something that’s always been true of our industry: in retailing, change is the only constant.

The key to Westfield’s own success has been creating retail and entertainment destinations that span beyond the traditional shopping centre offering, Changing with the times over the past decade has been the key to Westfield attracting half a billion visitors across both our London centres, generating more than £15 billion in sales in that time. Today the evolution continues apace.

Westfield London started this, its 10th anniversary year, with a £600m expansion seeing it become Europe’s largest shopping centre. Yet, the biggest shift has been in how we, our retailers, and brand partners, are using our space to create even more unique experiences.

Our new outdoor events space at Westfield London — Westfield Square — is the perfect example. It’s become a focal point of the expansion and provides a

major focus on dining, entertainment and experience. Then there’s our latest openings: Europe’s largest Japanese food hall ‘Ichiba’ and Puttshack, the world’s first super tech indoor mini-golf experience.

It’s influencing our marketing, events and branding strategies, too. Through new spaces and technology, our brand ventures team is creating smarter assets, more immersive activations and deeper engagement for partners such as Disney, SEAT and Dyson. The digital space is there for convenience. The physical space for the experience.

So, what can people look forward to in the next 10 years? It’s a question that led us to unveil our vision for the shopping centre of the future — a hyper-connected micro-city, driven by social interaction and creating its own community. We call it ‘Destination 2028’.

Based on insights from a panel of experts, including a futurologist, fashion technology innovator, retail specialist and experimental physiologists, the concept sees new technologies fused with back-to-basics, including gardens and ‘classroom retail’.

Images depict hanging sensory gardens and AI-infused walkways in an environment catering for a new generation of visitors and the growing importance they will place on experience, leisure, community and wellness. A ‘betterment zone’ lets visitors reflect in a mindfulness workshop, while havens of tranquil green space flow indoors and out.

Crucially, experience will remain king but on a whole new level. ‘Extra-perience’ will see eye scanners bring up information on entry about a visitor’s previous purchases and recommend personalised fast-lanes around the centre. Magic mirrors and smart changing rooms will show shoppers virtual reflections wearing chosen clothes and accessories.

Further innovations include smart loos that detect hydration levels and nutritional needs, alerting visitors to top-up their vitamin C or re-hydrate, and reading rooms granting access to every book ever written.

There’ll be digital pathways underfoot and delivery drones overhead.

Stores will become a showcase for classroom retail, with the makers and process behind any product taking centre stage.

Our Destination 2028 concept also reflects the rise of the sharing economy, with rental-retail expected to become the norm for post-millennials who’ll be able to rent everything they want. We expect more pop-up, temporary retail and co-working spaces to emerge, too.

It’s a glimpse into the future grounded in the reality; retailers and shopping destinations need to continually reinvent to remain competitive and relevant.

As we celebrate 10 years of pioneering retail in London, we’re already looking forward to the next decade — and the trends of 2028 are already shaping our destinations today.

Westfield’s ‘Destination 2028’ concept give shoppers a glimpse of what they can look forward to in the next 10 years. (credit: Uniform)

59

y t

beauty retail

e h T

u a e

b

OF

a e b

Despite challenging retail conditions, the beauty industry is booming with a growing number of brands opening standalone stores.

The global cosmetics or beauty products industry is one sector which remains impervious to the ups and downs of the economy, according to Orbis Research. In 2017, the market was valued at USD 532.43 billion, and by 2023 it is expected to reach USD 805.61 billion, driven in part by the ageing population.

The industry is booming, with more and more brands opening standalone stores where they can tell their story.

Experience- and service-led stores In the last 12 months alone, Tom Ford has launched his inaugural standalone beauty store, in London, complete with interactive mirrors and digital scenting table, Lush has opened its first Naked shop, in Milan, which stocks products totally free of packaging, L’Occitane has unveiled a 600 sq m flagship on Regent Street that is packed full of sensorial experiences, and enhanced personalisation and customisation opportunities, and NYX Professional Make Up has expanded its UK presence with a store at the Bullring in Birmingham.

‘A large proportion of high street retailers have struggled to transition from the mindset that a store is only a selling platform, when in fact we’re seeing service-led and a softer sell becoming key strategies to success,’ says Stefanie Dorfer, retail editor at innovation research and advisory company, Stylus. ‘This is where

60

beauty is really coming to the fore. Standalone retail spaces enable brands to deliver multiple, full spectrum beauty services that straddle cosmetics and wellbeing under one roof, offering education, experimentation and fully immersive experiences that will not only build loyalty, but ultimately deliver sales.’

Dorfer argues that beauty is no longer just about cosmetics or skincare but a holistic approach. ‘Consumers are increasingly concerned about the ingredients in the products they buy, how they are made and the broader benefits they offer.’

Natural ingredients will be a key influence driving the beauty and personal care market in 2018, according to a report by market intelligence agency, Mintel, along with personalisation, social responsibility and digital technology.

‘Mintel predicts that the beauty and personal care market will experience a fundamental shift during 2018,’ says Sarah Jindal,

Left: ‘Shiseido The Store’ opened in Ginza earlier this year, embodying ‘knowledge, technology, brand value and cultural value’.

Middle: Il Makiage is a new cosmetics label with a pavilion in New York designed by Zaha Hadid Architects.

Right: NIOD (meaning ‘non-invasive options in dermal science’) opened its first UK store in Seven Dials in June. It shares the space with parent company, DECIEM.

beauty retail

says Kar-Hwa Ho, head of interiors at Zaha Hadid Architects.

‘A personal space that’s all about her, to select and apply her makeup.’ According to the Il Makiage website, the boutique is staffed with makeup pros, ready to customise the ideal mix of luxe products and shades for even the highest maintenance shoppers.

The changing face of beauty halls With beauty brands now recognising that they are strong enough to have a standalone presence, Andrew Phipps, head of retail research at CBRE, wonders what effect it will have on department stores, whose beauty hall concessions were large drivers of footfall.

In an article for the The Times, Phipps says: ‘There is a question about what role department stores will play [for beauty brands] going forward if, over time, footfall to department stores falls’.

Saks Fifth Avenue in New York has recently relocated its beauty department to the second floor, with a significant focus on experiences. ‘The bold decision to move beauty to the second floor, from the traditional main floor model, allowed us to build a one-of-a-kind destination enabling Saks to create the epitome of an experiential beauty floor,’ explains Marc Metrick, president, Saks Fifth Avenue. ‘We continue to apply the principles of what we call The New Luxury to everything we do. What we’ve done with beauty gives the customer a warmer environment, differentiated from what they can get anywhere else and creates a reason to come to Saks and experience our brand.’

The 2,973 sq m beauty space houses more than 120 colour cosmetics, skincare, fragrance and wellness brands as well as 15 spa rooms along with services such as facials, massages and a flower shop.

‘The Saks beauty floor is designed much more around premium services, so it makes sense that it’s moved to a more discreet, lower footfall location,’ says John O’Sullivan, production editor of London-based trends and retail consultancy GDR Creative Intelligence. ‘As we see physical stores shift more towards services and experiences, making sure they’re set in the right place is really important, so I wouldn’t be surprised to see others follow suit.’

From a retail design perspective, Brittany Reid of Design4Retail, which counts Charlotte Tilbury, Clarins and Too Faced among its clients, has noticed the wellness trend impact the healthy beauty sector greatly. ‘As consumers have begun to put more emphasis on the concept of feeling good, as well as looking good, we see retailers jumping to respond with their physical retail design,’ she says. ‘No longer is the beauty store just a store, it is a space for sleep therapy workshops, a small event for skincare tutorials, a platform for education on becoming health conscious and more. No longer is the beauty retail atmosphere based on vanity, it is beauty wellness and this concept will grow exponentially in coming years.’

Top: NYX Professional Make Up at The Bullring in Birmingham.

Above: The Too Faced flagship store on Carnaby Street, London, designed by Design4Retail.

Top left: ‘Shiseido The Store’ in Ginza.

Bottom left: The new Lush Naked shop in Milan stocks products totally free of packaging.

62

arken-pop.com | +44 (0)1638 565656 | info@arken-pop.com

department stores

Survival of the fittest:

Department stores With House of Fraser closing more than half its stores, Debenhams posting profit warnings, and Lord & Taylor and Barneys closing in New York, where does the future of department stores lie?

Since the collapse of BHS in 2015, it’s not been an easy ride for the department store sector. Research by property platform Lendy says the number of large department stores in England has fallen by 25 per cent in less than a decade to just 180 from 240 in 2009.

House of Fraser has announced plans to close 31 of its 59 stores, including its Oxford Street flagship, after launching a Company Voluntary Arrangement (CVA) in June. Debenhams plans to downsize at least 30 of its stores. Marks and Spencer has announced plans to close 100 stores. So what can, and should, department stores do moving forward?

Selfridges was recently crowned Best Department Store in the World for the forth time at the Global Department Store Summit.

The forward-thinking retailer has been busy remodelling its Oxford Street flagship, most recently launching the final phase of its Body Studio and expanding the department by 321 sq m. Collaboration is a crucial part of Selfridges. The Corner Shop has hosted a variety of brands this year in celebration of the store’s latest campaign; The Anatomy of Luxury, including a Rolling Stones pop-up and brands such as Gentle Monster, A. F. Vandevorst and Issey Miyake.

John Lewis has announced plans for a radical overhaul, turning 15 of its stores into pilots from September. John Lewis’s new flagship at the new Westfield London extension is not only big in size, it’s also big in experience, offering 23 different services including the Sofa Studio, Sleep Room and Demo Kitchen.

64

Text: Lyndsey Dennis

The retailer is building loyalty by offering customers vouchers in return for recycling their old clothes, reducing the impact on landfill.

The scheme is currently being trialled with 100 customers.

As well as the increase in online retail, Samantha Dover, senior retail analyst at Mintel, says large store estates also make it difficult for department stores to respond quickly to the major changes on the British high street, with a host of new shopping centre developments redirecting shoppers away from traditional shopping districts towards new retail destinations. She says ‘large space retailers don’t have the flexibility to relocate in the way smaller operators can and this has left many House of Fraser stores out on a limb.’

However, Mintel’s research shows that despite ongoing challenges, the outlook for the department store sector is more optimistic than reports suggest. ‘British consumers continue to regard department stores highly. Not only do many consider the department store shopping experience better, many think they offer a better selection of products and see these stores as a good way to discover new brands and products,’ says Dover.

The most successful department store retailers are recognising that the distinction between whether a sale is made online or offline is becoming more and more blurred. As a result, the role that physical stores play in this particular retail sector is fundamentally changing. ‘Stores are fast becoming a marketing tool to help

department stores

Karl McKeever, founder & managing director of transformation agency Visual Thinking, shares his top five tips for department stores moving forward.

1. Better Execution – Focus on the Basics Securing both positive perceptions and maximising ‘ease’ of shop (self selection) for shoppers. Some department stores focus too much attention on environment design to ‘make’ the visual impact. Yes new, bold design is easier to ‘see’ than great attention to detail on daily operational/VM standards. However, great products/brands and retail concepts will fail with poor daily retail standards actions.

These retail basics — tidying; folding; neatening; straightening; alignment; putting things in size order — are often not viewed as a priority, but they really do make a difference. Shoppers notice these things (subconsciously and consciously) and form their opinions based on whether a store looks ‘credible and quality’ — regardless of brand or price. Older consumers are likely to be much more picky and discerning about store standards.

2. Focused Offer

Left: Sybarite has completed the design of SKP, a huge 250,838 sq m department store in X’ian, China that spans 20 storeys.

Above: House of Fraser has announced plans to close 31 of its 59 stores, including the Oxford Street flagship.

retailers sell a lifestyle to their customers and this trend has driven retailers like John Lewis and Selfridges to reimagine the in-store experience, with improved leisure facilities helping to maintain footfall and increase the amount of time people spend in-store,’ continues Dover.

Harvey Nichols has recently unveiled its new-look womenswear destination in Knightsbridge. the latest stage of an ambitious redevelopment for the flagship. Following a four month refurbishment, the 2,043 sq m space was designed by StudioFourIV and features a new unconventional and experimental design concept, which moves away from the traditional branded shopfits and instead offers a more sophisticated and elegant interior akin to a luxury boutique.

Simon Mitchell, co-founder of Sybarite, says he doesn’t envisage technology making stores redundant. He says department stores of the future will place more value on experience — both a transactional and social experience. ‘Creating inspirational spaces that enable consumers to experience a brand on a deeper, physical level is key to a store’s success.’

Sybarite has completed the design of SKP, a 250,838 sq m department store in X’ian, China that spans 20 storeys. ‘Xi’an is so much more than just a department store,’ says Sybarite co-founder, Torquil McIntosh. ‘Despite the potentially overwhelming scale it manages to be very intimate, which, in turn, makes it very easy to

Department stores should regularly audit their inventory (brands stocked/range and choice of lines) to ensure they are correctly aligned to the target shopper demographic. Make sure the product offer is always RELEVANT to fulfil the practical and aesthetic needs of the shopper: age, gender, lifestyles, incomes etc. Look for exclusives and special buys as a way to drive and promote shopper traffic.

3. Outstanding Service This is an area where department stores need to excel. When shoppers have eventually found their brand/department instore, they are then ready to shop. Great service is not rocket science but makes ALL the difference: welcoming, attentive, responsive and courteous. Shoppers always thanked for their time and purchase. For us, the mantra is ‘Would you be impressed?’

4. Events and Collaboration Stores should create ‘exciting blockbuster’ seasonal and product events that integrate across the whole store and in departments — combining window displays, merchandise, VM and marketing activity in engaging and highly experiential events. Selfridges, Le Bon Marche, SOGO, Macy’s and Saks Fifth Avenue are great at doing this.

5. Private Label Brands This is an opportunity to differentiate and maximise profit.

Private label brands (developed in house) provide a way for department stores to create something unique. Here they don’t have to play by the brand’s rules and can create something magical. However, it requires joined-up thinking with the previous points 1-4 above, and skills and flair in harnessing the best of all internal teams on designing, developing, promoting and delivering this to shoppers. With the potential to command significantly higher margins, this should be an area where brands continually reinvest and innovate.

65

department stores Left: Selfridges has launched the final phase of its Body Studio in London.

Below: Harvey Nichols in Knightsbridge has unveiled its new-look womenswear destination.

Bottom left: The Personal Styling Studio at John Lewis, Westfield London.

shop. Ultimately, the store offers something hugely experiential for its customers, and I think that makes it very powerful.’

As well as its extensive fashion offering — 1,000 high-end global brands — SKP also features multistorey event spaces, boutique cinemas, restaurants, cafes and a garden terrace, designed by Sybarite in collaboration with Arup. Elsewhere, social spaces are five times larger than those within its predecessor, SKP Beijing.

Under the ‘Rendez-Vous’ umbrella, you’ll find a wine bar, fine wine cellar, restaurant, art gallery and several niche non-fashion boutiques, including couture tea brand TWG and an artisanal fromagerie with its own cheese making facilities. These spaces are all linked by the elegant and contemplative bookshop.

In Paris, Galeries Lafayette is opening a new flagship store on the Champs-Elysees in March 2019. The 9,000 sq m store will replace the Virgin megastore that closed its doors in 2013.

Danish architecture firm BIG — Bjarke Ingels Group — will create ‘a disruptive customer journey’ at the new store. According to Fashion Network, the idea is that the space will also be able to evolve.

66

Across the pond in New York City, Lord & Taylor is closing its NYC flagship after more than 100 years of trading. Round the corner, Barneys has closed its store in Manhattan’s Upper West Side, which opened in 2013. Barneys on Madison Avenue is also hanging in the balance due to rent prices rocketing. American department store chain Sears is also closing stores — 48 Sears stores and 15 Kmart stores spread across 29 states. Macy’s has also closed a number of stores this year.

Erik Mueller-Ali, vice president of CallisonRTKL, says American department stores will continue to evolve and says size matters.

‘Department stores present merchandise and services at a scale that no other retailers can match; when done correctly, department store pop-ups, brand collaborations or social events create a real impact. Whether the customer is able to attend an actual event or just sees it on social media, department stores have the ability to control the retail narrative and grab people’s attention in a meaningful way.’

Through loyalty programs and online shopping channels, department stores have consumer data to tailor communication and merchandise offerings to individual customers. ‘This is not about big brother watching every move; it’s about having a best friend who helps you cut through the overwhelming options of modern shopping. With department stores, the personalised service component extends beyond the digital realm. Since merchandise is organised by category, sales associates tend to specialise in their department, gaining a true understanding of the products they are selling. Knowledgeable staff becomes a reliable resource to help customers navigate through the latest fashion, creating a much needed personal connection,’ says Mueller-Ali. In order to tempt the modern consumer off their phone and into the store, the most forward-thinking department stores are turning retail into modern entertainment. Whether its Selfridges staging ambitious multisensory art exhibitions, John Lewis’s pop-up rooftop restaurants or Liberty hosting a sewing school, department stores still have a draw for consumers.

@retailfocus

StarscapeFibre Optic Lighting

Star panels in production for Christmas windows. Contact us for more information.

The all new Stormforce Forester 01462 672 000

|

sales@assigns.co.uk

|

www.assigns.co.uk

starscape.co.uk 01289 332900 info@starscape.co.uk

67

fifth avenue

FIFTH AVENUE The main vein of New York City’s shopping scene, Fifth Avenue offers a wealth of retail highlights.

Stretching from West 143rd Street in Harlem to Washington Square North at Washington Square Park in Greenwich Village, Fifth Avenue in New York City is considered one of the most expensive and elegant streets in the world.

With mass brands like Victoria’s Secret and Abercrombie & Fitch, upscale department stores such as Bergdorf Goodman and multinational retailers like H&M, Zara and Uniqlo, the thoroughfare quite literally offers something for everyone. The stores there sell more than just apparel: Fifth Avenue is also home to the 24-hour flagship Apple store and Tiffany & Co.’s six-storey flagship. French jeweller and watchmaker Cartier has been located on Fifth Avenue since 1917, and French jeweller Van Cleef & Arpels also calls the street home. Harry Winston is perhaps the most exclusive jeweller of all on Fifth Avenue. In fact, Fifth Avenue is often called ‘The Diamond Avenue’.

For more than 150 years, Fifth Avenue has hosted many studios and laboratories where artists, scientists and inventors (including Tesla) have made it the place to be for both industry and art.

Rockefelller Center and the Empire State Building, two of the city’s famous observatories, make Fifth Avenue home alongside famous churches, museums and Trump Tower.

Dyson opened its experience store on Fifth Avenue in December 2017. The 294 sq m space is designed to encourage people to pick up, test, and understand Dyson technology. ‘In order for people to understand how our technology works, it is imperative they have the opportunity to test and experience our products. This space is designed with that in mind. There isn’t another place in the world that captures Dyson — our spirit and our machines — like the Dyson Demo. It’s quite exciting to be opening in New York City, bringing hair science and purified air to Fifth Avenue,’ says James Dyson, chief engineer and chairman, upon opening.

Standing proud at 175 Fifth Avenue is the Flatiron Building.

L’Occitane opened a flagship store in the Flatiron District in 2016, designed by New York-based creative agency, School House.

The French beauty brand worked with School House on the store

Text: Lyndsey Dennis

Retail neighbourhoods interior, which is a celebration of time, inspired by the Provencal culture, with multiple layers for an immersive yet individualised shopping experience. Neighbours in the Flatiron District include Sweaty Betty, MAC Cosmetics, LEGO and Eataly.

The many shop windows along the street also serve as a main draw to visitors, especially at Christmas time; the likes of Saks Fifth Avenue, Bergdorf Goodman, Bloomingdales and Lord & Taylor.

After more than 100 years of trading, Lord & Taylor – one of the oldest department stores in the US – will be closing the doors to its iconic Manhattan flagship in 2019.

Soaring rents have seen some retailers relocate or close, such as Ralph Lauren, Kenneth Cole and Juicy Couture. A report

by Cushman & Wakefield in 2017 flagged the upper part of the shopping strip (from 49th to 60th) as the most expensive in the world, followed by London’s Bond Street in second place and Hong Kong’s Causeway Bay in third. However, Puma has chosen to come back to the area, signing a 15-year lease for 2,229 sq m at 609 Fifth Avenue.

‘In New York City, the environment is especially competitive, and brands who call Manhattan home set the pace for retail globally,’ says David Gorelick, executive managing director and head of retail for the Americas at Cushman & Wakefield. ‘We know that international luxury brands will continue to look to high streets to support their plans for expansion.’

Darren Yates, head of EMEA retail research at Cushman & Wakefield, says: ‘Global retail remains as dynamic and vibrant as ever in response to technological and demographic change across the world. Premium retail destinations, including New York’s Upper Fifth Avenue, Hong Kong’s Causeway Bay and London’s New Bond Street, are highly sought after by international brands seeking to create engaging retail experiences that offer something new and exciting. The most innovative retailers are combining their online and physical platforms to create a seamless omnichannel experience for the customer. Profile and location play such a crucial role in the premium retail experience.’

69

#VMDS2018

‘The Retail Visual Merchandising and Display industries most prestigious night is back for its 15th year’

VM & Display Awards 2018 22 NOVEMBER 2018 BLOOMSBURY BIG TOP

NOW OPEN FOR ENTRIES This glittering event recognises and celebrates the work of this creative and talented industry over the past 12 months and is judged by an independent panel of experts.

Visit our website to review the full list of categories and use our simple online form to enter your projects FREE of charge.

The deadline for entries is the 17/08/2018.

www.vmanddisplayawards.com enquiries@rvmww.com +44 (0)1945 420068

products

LONDON DESIGN FESTIVAL Foscarini The Foscarini Rooms is an immersive lighting experience that explores colour. Unveiled for the first time during the London Design Festival, Foscarini will take over Oneroom gallery and saturate every room with colour. Three different scenarios will lead visitors through an immersive installation that expresses the character of the Foscarini collections in a completely surprising way. In addition Foscarini previews its new Colour collection. The project is designed and curated by Carlo Ninchi & Vittorio Locatelli of Oneroom.

T. +39 041 595 3811 E: foscarini@foscarini.com www.foscarini.com Twitter: foscarinilamps

Lee Broom Lee Broom is delighted to present the third and final instalment of his award-winning lighting collection ‘OBSERVATORY’ at his showroom in Shoreditch during London Design Festival. The new collection will be shown in the UK for the very first time and a new lighting piece will make its debut during the Festival. Orion, formed from modular tubes with opposing spheres, will be presented in a new black edition.

The original polished gold finish is updated with black spheres and tubes that connect and expand horizontally and vertically to create bespoke constellations of light.

T. +44 (0)20 7820 0742 E: info@leebroom.com www.leebroom.com Twitter: leebroom

CTO Lighting CTO Lighting will introduce ARTES during London Design Festival at Decorex, on Stand D31. ARTES is a series of graphic linear shapes expertly crafted from solid brass and alabaster. Designed to hang as an elegant single fitting or a cluster, ARTES offers flexibility and adaptability, alongside its refined architectural aesthetic. ARTES contains the latest LED technology, which allows a warm dimmable light to illuminate a space, while the luxe materials and coordinating pendant, wall and floor models provide a cohesive presence that can be tailored to a specific interior design scheme.

With three different guises: singles, clusters or jointed, ARTES pendants are ideal for bringing understated beauty to double-height spaces, office atriums or simply above a dining table or kitchen island. The ARTES wall and floor lamps offer decadently discreet illumination and are available in bespoke sizes according to requirements.

T. +44 (0)20 7686 8700 E. sales@ctolighting.co.uk www.ctolighting.co.uk Twitter: CTOlighting

72

Dare Studio Dare Studio is an award-winning British design company producing contemporary furniture and lighting products for luxury domestic interiors and high specification contract environments.

Established in 2009, the family run company champions the skills of the finest craftsmen setting a benchmark for the very best in contemporary design and manufacture. Visit the company at 100% Design on Stand DL30.

T. +44 (0)1273 736 186 E. sean@darestudio.co.uk www.darestudio.co.uk Twitter: dare_studio

MAKE AN IMPRESSION With our super range of Flooring.

Featuring high performing products that offer an unmatched level of performance, longevity and quality.

Call us now to find out more on 01985 218994 or visit www.jaymart.co.uk Jaymart Rubber & Plastics Ltd.

Roman Way, Crusader Park, Warminster, Wiltshire, BA12 8SP

Mats and Floors

products

LONDON DESIGN FESTIVAL Benchmark A powerhouse of British craft, Benchmark makes timeless furniture that has soul and integrity.

Using traditional craft techniques alongside innovative technology, Benchmark bring a sense of home to both commercial and residential spaces. Each piece is handmade by the company’s skilled craftsmen in its Dorset and Berkshire workshops. On display at 100% Design on Stand L320 will be new pieces by Space Copenhagen and Foster + Partners, alongside live workshops demonstrating the brand’s signature craftsmanship. On the stand, Benchmark craftsmen will be working at their benches producing furniture for live projects.

T. +44 (0)1488 658 184 E: info@benchmarkfurniture.com www.benchmarkfurniture.com Twitter: MadebyBenchmark

Tom Dixon This September, Tom Dixon will host ELECTROANALOGUE, a gathering of digital innovations in the Coal Office, the brand’s new HQ and flagship shop located on Granary Square, King’s Cross. In collaboration with friends and partners Bill Amberg Studio, Yuri Suzuki, Teenage Engineering, Ege and sound lab and bar Spiritland, ELECTROANALOGUE will explore the realms of digital technology through a diverse range of events, installations and interventions. King’s Cross will once again be a must-see district during London Design Festival with an eclectic mix of interactive activities. ELECTROANALOGUE will stimulate the senses through experiences involving sight, sound and touch.

T. +44 (0)330 3630 036 E: sales@tomdixon.net www.tomdixon.net Twitter: tomdixonstudio

Nulty Bespoke Nulty Bespoke will showcase a selection of its custom, handcrafted luminaires the company has produced for various high-profile clients over the past year at Decorex on 16-19 September during the London Design Festival. Visit Nulty on Stand E44. Over the past 12 months the Nulty Bespoke team has delivered bespoke light fittings for Google, private residences, an international department store, restaurants and a five-star hotel. These wide-ranging and differing projects have seen the designers use a variety of techniques, materials, processes and finishes, and a selection of these finished luminaires will be on display at the stand.

T. +44 (0)20 7803 9300 E: office@nultybespoke.co.uk www.nultybespoke.co.uk Twitter: NultyBespoke

74

mono.rocks Greek furniture brand mono.rocks sources unique and exqusite stones from around the world and crafts them into artful interior pieces. The brand has relationhips with the world’s major quarries, enabling them to reserve pieces of stone that stand out. Visit mono.rocks on Stand EB50 at 100% Design, which takes place during London Design Festival.

T. +30 2108970010 www.mono.rocks Instagram: mono.rocks

100% recyclable

Our in-house colour laboratory is home to an ever growing library of colours; whatever shade you are looking for, our colour technologists are available to brand-match or create new and bespoke hues, tailored to your individual project requirements.

The beauty of Perspex® surprisingly small batch quantities. No matter what colour you choose; each sheet will retain all of the exceptional quality performance characteristics of Perspex® acrylic, ensuring your designs can reach their full potential.

Discover what’s possible...

www.perspex.co.uk Perspex is a Registered Trademark of Lucite International UK Limited.

Highly versatil e

Exceptional optical clarity

Resistant to scratching

Lightweight Easy to clean High tensile strength & rigidity

Excellent weather & UV resistance

Shopkit Retail Focus 1 Cabinets Ad Sept2017_Layout 1 06/09/2017 11:37 Page 1

Unique cabinet design & manufacture by Shopkit Great attention to detailing, using high quality materials and finishes on all our custom and standard cabinet designs, produced in our UK factory. Call for brochure or to discuss your current or future projects.

T. 01923 818282

.

F. 01923 818280

.

E. sales@shopkit.com

.

www.shopkit.com

MADE IN THE UK

products

FLOORING Kährs Two scandi-inspired oak designs, Nouveau Lace and Harmony Shell, have joined the Kährs engineered wood flooring range. With natural knots, cracks, and sapwood, Nouveau Lace embraces a rustic feel. Combined with a white stain, the design emits scandi charm. Lace joins Kährs’ Classic Nouveau collection of bestselling one-strip designs refined through brushing, staining and a distinctive bevel. Mirroring the design of Nouveau Lace is Harmony Shell. Creating a linear effect, Shell’s three-strip format works well in smaller spaces, giving the illusion of a larger, more open space.

T. +44 (0)23 9245 3045 E: sales@kahrs.com www.kahrs.com Twitter: KahrsHardwood

Gerflor Gerflor has developed a wide range of products that can adapt to the pace of this fast-changing industry in terms of both cost-effective installations and meeting the latest decorative trends. High street retailers, supermarkets, DIY shops, convenience stores and forecourt traders may all have different briefs but advancements in technology provide a wider choice of floorings for retail commercial facilities. Solutions are available to suit both short term and long-term budgets, and for many areas across a retail environment including both front and back-of-house applications.

T. +44 (0)1926 622 600 E. contractuk@gerflor.com www.gerflor.co.uk Twitter: GerflorUK

Polyflor

Tarkett

Polyflor has launched the colourful new homogeneous flooring collection, Palettone PUR. The premium Palettone range offers a full spectrum of colour, with 50 shades to choose from including classic neutrals, soothing pastels and daring brights. Featuring a non-directional, semi-matt emboss for the even distribution of light reflectance, the palette is split into seven colour groups — Cool Greys, Warm Greys, Greens, Blues, Pink Purples, Yellow Reds and Beige Browns. With each Palettone design being made up of a solid colour base and complementary toned highlights, the collection includes shades designed to inspire retail projects, such as Lunar Landscape, Festival Field, Faded Denim, Sugar Candy, Cayenne Heat and China Clay.

Tarkett has unveiled a new generation of floor renovation for professionals — iD Click Ultimate. With the strength and feel of wood and stone, and all the advantages of luxury vinyl tiles, iD Click Ultimate offers time saving and durable alternatives to architects, designers, chain owners and shopfitters looking for stylish solutions to fit out stores, shops and hotels. Made with professionals in mind, the range is easy to install, extremely resistant and environment proof, and of the highest aesthetic quality. It meets the increasingly demanding needs of retail and hospitality industries today. Tarkett’s product provides high quality, quick to install solutions, thereby reducing business downtime for stores and hotels on a tight schedule. With iD Click Ultimate, there’s no waiting, no gluing, no special tools required and little to no subfloor preparation needed — it can even be installed directly over ceramic tiles (max 8mm width and 3mm depth) and most existing subfloors.

T. +44 (0)161 767 1111 E: info@polyflor.com www.polyflor.com Twitter: Polyflorltd

T. +44 (0)1622 854 040 E. marketing@tarkett.com www.tarkett.co.uk Twitter: TarkettUK

77

products

FLOORING Junckers Junckers’ new Twin Herringbone floor is an updated version of the much-loved classic, parquet flooring — a solid wood floor with a pre-finished surface, easy to install and at a favourable price point. It is made from Junckers’ classic two-stave flooring where each board consists of two rows of staves; one full-length and one with two half-length staves, Twin Herringbone has an authentic pattern and lively, natural look. The new floor doesn’t have to be sanded, filled and treated after installation. Ideal for use with underfloor heating, Twin Herringbone is available in solid Ash, Beech, Oak and Black Oak measuring 129mm wide x 156.6mm long x 14mm or 22mm thick. Ideal for use with underfloor heating.

T. +44 (0)1376 534 700 E: enquiries@junckers.co.uk www.junckers.co.uk Twitter: junckersfloors

Interfloor Interfloor has introduced new premium edgings offering a high-end addition to its existing Gripperrods range. The new Premier floor edgings are available in modern finishes that will complement the current trends in luxury home accessories. The Premier range includes a very on-trend brushed steel nickel or an elegant bright chrome which will co-ordinate well with other accessories, light switches and door handles to ensure a seamless finish. Both finishes are available in five specialist trims designed to provide the perfect solution for all types of materials.

T. +44 (0)1706 238 810 E: sales@interfloor.com www. interfloor.com Twitter: Interfloor1

Karndean Designflooring Karndean Designflooring is expanding its Opus collection with six new modern and contemporary designs including three woods, three stones and two smaller ‘herringbone’ tile designs. As well as expanding its limed wood effect designs, Opus now presents mixed material and limestone designs for the first time. Combining the natural characteristics of European Oak with a shuttered concrete effect, Fabrica features classic knots and cross-sawn markings subtly displayed for added definition. Ideal for specifiers looking for a clean and sophisticated finish with distinctive grain details, Columba and Avena are designed to offer a neutral limed palette for commercial environments. Joining already popular grey and poured concrete stone designs, Opus welcomes Fumo, Argento and Lutum as its new limestone offering.

T. +44 (0)1386 820 104 E: commercial@karndean.co.uk www.karndean.com Twitter: KarndeanComm

78

Moduleo Moda in Pelle has undergone a stylish transformation thanks to luxury vinyl flooring manufacturer, Moduleo. Dark Country Oak wood-effect flooring from Moduleo’s popular Impress range proved the perfect blend of style and substance for contractors, Paramount Projects, leading the refurbishment at the Henley store in Oxfordshire. The brief called for a warm, inviting space, while being mindful of the heavy footfall associated with such environments. With a slip resistance rating of R10 and at least a five-year guarantee in commercial settings, the floor will stand the test of time, while offering a high-quality finish for years to come.

T. +44 (0)1332 851 500 E: salesuk@moduleo.com www.moduleo.co.uk Twitter: ModuleoUK

by

Any colour Any text

Any Shape Intelligent effects Complicated animations

neonplus.co.uk

products

SURFACES & FINISHES Lawcris CompacMel Plus is an innovative and eco-friendly alternative to compact laminate, boasting a range of benefits that free the designer from the constraints of other materials. It is used a lot in changing rooms and staff rooms for lockers and furniture. As well as moisture resistance and excellent machinability, CompacMel Plus features a black core throughout, allowing creativity in both shapes and applications, without the need for edging. In 18 vibrant uni-colours and woodgrains, it’s easy to see why this range is so popular. Find the whole range on Lawcris’s website — www.lawcris.co.uk.

T. +44 (0)113 217 7177 E. sales@lawcris.co.uk www.lawcris.co.uk Twitter: Lawcris1982

Surface Styling Surface Styling puts paid to time-consuming trawling around multiple websites for the right interior surfaces. Now they are all together in one unique online design resource that is easy to navigate and offers access to over 12,000 products from more than 40 leading surface material brands. Specifiers can quickly and easily search for surfaces by product, colour, certification and sizes, and view technical specifications, supported by a 24-48 hour sampling service. The portfolio embraces the world’s most pioneering materials, which are brought to the UK after researching and investing in the latest surface innovations.

T. +44 (0)845 603 7811 E: info@surfacestyling.co.uk www.surfacestyling.co.uk Twitter: SurfaceStyling

Formica Group Designed by Beyond Communications, the Fiorelli store at London Luton Airport features the Calacatta Marble décor from the TrueScale range by Formica Group. TrueScale’s Calacatta Marble look is based on a genuine Italian Calacatta marble slab, discovered by Formica Group during the design team’s global travels. With real marble’s high cost to source, its propensity to stain and a density that makes it difficult to work with, TrueScale offers an authentic visual solution in laminate that is significantly easier to apply in the retail environment and maintain. Applied to plinths, branded panels and at the cash register, the marble effect is a fitting backdrop for the brand. Calacatta Marble includes no repeat veining across the full width of the laminate sheet that gives the décor its authenticity, helping to provide an upscale identity to Fiorelli’s retail environment.

T. +44 (0)191 259 3512 E. samples.uk@formica.com www.formica.com Twitter: FormicaGroup

80

Armourcoat Armourcoat surface finishes have played a central role in the refurbishment of the iconic Minster Building in London. Measuring 7m high and up to 8m wide, the impressive entrance boulevard has a polished floor of terazzo with bronze inlays, edged by dark oak. Throughout the entrance and reception spaces, the walls are hand-finished in Armourcoat polished plaster together with the company’s Acoustic Plaster System applied to the ceilings. The Acoustic Plaster system is designed to optimise the acoustics of interior spaces, and offers a clean and smooth mineral surface.

T. +44 (0)1732 460 668 E: sales@armourcoat.co.uk www.armourcoat.com Twitter: armourcoat

MODERN INFORMATION DISPLAY The professional way to display:

DURAFRAME® POSTER THE INFOFRAME

> > > >

Present information professionally Insert and exchange posters quickly thanks to the magnetic frame Attach to smooth surfaces such as walls and glass without tools POSTER SUN available for windows exposed to direct sunlight

TABLET HOLDERS Designed for retail professionals

> > > > > >

For all tablets 7”-13” Rotates 360° with lock-in points every 90° Smooth tilt angle adjustment Anti-theft protection Manufactured in Germany Models available: Floor, Table, Table Clamp, Wall and Wall Arm

www.durable-uk.com

September advert - Duraframe and Tablet Holders.indd 1

04/09/2017 16:45:17

products

TECHNOLOGY Futura Retail Solutions Futura Retail Solutions is making GDPR compliance one step easier for users with a new data module designed for easy manipulation and editing of customer data en masse, ensuring speed and accuracy for customer data management. The new GDPR module extends the functionality of Futura4Data, a suite of time saving tools with a flexible user-friendly interface to import and export bulk data in Futura using files rather than manual data entry. With extensive data validation it helps to improve productivity and accuracy for a range of otherwise time-consuming data entry and editing tasks.

T. +44 (0)1189 841 925 E: sales@futurauk.com www.futura4retail.co.uk Twitter: Futura_retail

SOTI SOTI is exhibiting at Equipmag from 10-12 September on Stand H107 (during Paris Retail Week). All of the solutions that will be exhibited are to help retailers create, renovate, manage, and optimise their business. In the same hall, the Equipmag/Store offer is presented alongside the e-commerce sector, which is dedicated to solutions for e-merchants, from digital marketing to logistics. There will be delegates welcomed at Paris Expo in Pavilion 1 to experience this 2018 edition. SOTI will be presenting its SOTI One platform along with use cases such as Kiabi.

T. +44 (0)121 368 0675 E: sales@soti.net www.soti.net Twitter: SOTI_Inc

NEC Display Solutions NEC Display Solutions Europe has launched its latest MultiSync C Series large format displays for meeting rooms, conferencing and digital signage. The new large format displays are designed for modern office and shop environments with controlled ambient light levels, providing pin-sharp resolution and brightness levels in any conditions.

The NEC MultiSync C Series is a family of displays which combine high-quality and reliability with low total cost of ownership over their long lifetime.

T. +44 (0)870 120 1160 E: infomail@nec-displays.com www.nec-display-solutions.co.uk Twitter: NEC_Display_EU

G-SMATT Retailers need to provide shoppers with more than just somewhere to shop. With G-SMATT’s smart, interactive media glass, the shopping trip becomes a memorable experience.

Imagine glass feature walls playing dynamic video content, shop fronts that can detail the latest offers, or a shopping centre with glass balustrades showing information or running interactive games that people can play from their mobiles.

For an innovative pop-up solution why not consider one of the company’s G-Tainers; a combination of smart glass within a steel modular system. The only limit on how you use G-SMATT media glass is your imagination!

T. +44 (0)1865 688 221 E. info@g-smatteurope.com www.g-smatteurope.com Twitter: g_smatt

83

products

PROJECTS Ripple Ripple has created a variety of new products for a UK-wide store improvement programme by Topps Tiles, to improve communication, display and merchandising in its showrooms. A new ‘Trade Essentials’ section conveys innovative features and applications of an extended range of trade tools and products. The ‘All-Store Improvement Plan’ (ASIP) will require over a mile of wall unit fixtures across the 380 Topps Tiles showrooms in the UK. These will be installed in various configurations to a programme expected to run to autumn 2019.

T. +44 (0)161 624 8201 E: info@ripple.co.uk www.ripple.co.uk Twitter: RippleGroupUK

Bright Leaf House of Fraser celebrated Pride London in July with a scheme by Bright Leaf. The department store’s Pride campaign begins in London’s Oxford Street and then went on tour to Glasgow, Leeds and Manchester. The retailer’s initial concept featured step and repeat graphics of couples in the six rainbow pride colours. The brief for creative VM agency Bright Leaf was to develop House of Fraser’s in-house concept and create VM elements which could easily be transported to the four different locations and used multiple times — both internally and externally.

T. +44 (0)20 7637 7660 E: vm@welcometobrightleaf.com www.welcometobrightleaf.com Instagram: vmbrightleaf

Rockfon Rockfon Tropic ceilings have been installed in Europe’s largest car showroom — Sytner BMW in Sheffield. Designed

by AT Architects, the three-storey, 18,500 sq m BMW and Mini dealership can display up to 872 cars. The 42-bay workshop, with drive-in reception, is quick and convenient. The ground floor is home to the complete BMW range, where 7,500 sq m of Rockfon Tropic ceilings were chosen to provide outstanding acoustic control and contribute to the light, open interior design. The new building is designed to create a comfortable and welcoming environment. Rockfon ceiling plays a pivotal role here. The large showroom is fitted with floor to ceiling glazing and tiled floors, which could make the open-plan area prone to reverberation. The Class A sound absorption of Rockfon Tropic controls the ambient sound level in this space, reducing echo and improving speech intelligibility.

T. +44 (0)20 8222 7457 E. info@rockfon.co.uk www.rockfon.co.uk Twitter: RockfonUK

84

Harlequin Design To celebrate London Pride in July, Clarks Shoes produced a window installation alongside Harlequin Design with the iconic rainbow as inspiration. The rainbow was made up of more than 8,000 words, including Equality, Togetherness, Love, Pride, Comfort and Freedom, with the message ‘Above All, Love’ layered on top. In line with the new brand message, the window also included the hashtag #ComfortInYourSoul.

T. +44 (0)20 7253 6238 E: hello@harlequin-design.com www.harlequin-design.com Twitter: HarlequinLondon

THE DNA FACTORY

THE FUTURE OF MAKING MANNEQUINS

© Copyright 2017. SARL MAPI WINDOW FRANCE. All rights reserved.

For your next mannequin collection, take a step into the future.

QUALITY: With its revolutionary 3D image capture technology this service unique to WINDOW FRANCE offers you untold creativity and precision. SPEED: Create your collection in just a few days from photoshoot to full size prototype.

w w w. w i n d o w f r a n c e . c o m

BOYS AND GIRLS BAND COLLECTIONS 117 & 102 MADE WITH THE DNA FACTORY TECHNOLOGY

THE DNA FACTORY IMAGE CAPTURE FACILITY

products

VM & DISPLAY Unibox Debenhams has updated its Oxford Street store with a new 20m dynamic window installation, featuring a custom graphic solution by Unibox.

Working directly with Debenhams’ design team, Unibox created a custom specification of its Kinetik LED Lightbox, which features dynamic LEDs that augment a tension fabric graphic, with Unibox’s Magnetik integrated inside the display. Parallel to the 20m lightbox is another Kinetik display, sat on top of industrial-styled castors that mount onto a custom-designed track system, allowing the VM team to create focus points throughout the window.

T. +44 (0)161 655 2100 E: info@unibox.co.uk www.unibox.co.uk Twitter: unibox

DIA Systems Designs in Aluminium was established in 1997, and is a stockist and supplier of shopfitting systems and aluminium extrusions for retail industry and joinery manufacturers. DIA Systems offers a bespoke service on both mild steel accessories and bracketry along with aluminium extrusions. The company understands the needs for working within the shopfitting industry and prides itself on the service and quality of its products. Today, the company’s products can be found in most parts of the world and the company has distributors currently in the USA, Canada, Mexico and Kenya.

T. +44 (0)1273 582 241 E. sales@diasystems.co.uk www.diagroup.co.uk Twitter: DIA_Systems

Andy Thornton Gandys is a unique lifestyle brand selling thoughtfully designed fashion accessories and luggage to travellers all over the world, created by brothers Rob and Paul Forkan in memory of their parents who died in the 2004 tsunami.

Gandy’s recently-opened flagship store in Covent Garden extensively features retail display fittings sourced from Andy Thornton. Clothes, travel accessories and flip flops are displayed throughout the store on industrial-style shelf units, school-style benches and simple garment rails, crafted from a mixture of steel and wood in an antique painted finish.

View the complete range available from Andy Thornton at www.andythornton.com T. +44 (0)1422 376 000 E. sales@andythornton.com www.andythornton.com Twitter: andythorntonltd

86

Movetech UK When visual display specialist Made You Look required a turntable for its stand at the VM & Display Show, the company turned to Movetech UK for help. Movetech UK’s brief from Made You Look was to do exactly as their name states, to make people look. With vibrant mannequin displays taking centre stage, Made You Look came up with the idea to place their display on a Small Carousel revolving turntable from Movetech UK’s retail display range, knowing the unit would help give their display that extra wow factor. Read more about the range at www.movetechuk.com/ smallcarousels T. +44 (0)1204 525 626 E: display@movetechuk.com www.movetechuk.com Twitter: MovetechUK

H.O.L. are a London based leading provider of Retail Design, Shop Fitting and Retailer Supplies. We provide a creative and effective retail display environment to engage your customers and enhance your brand.

INTRODUCING OUR NEW COLLECTION FARRINGDON LAUNCHED AT THE VM & DISPLAY SHOW We worked with one of the UK’s leading body language experts to create a range of mannequins that convey a contemporary attitude. The collection includes male, female, urban and plus size adults along with playful children.

We invite you to book an appointment to view the full Farringdon collection at our London showroom

Find out more: Visit our NEW website at www.hol-group.com

mannequins

focus on MANNEQUINS Abstract or realistic, mannequins are the champions of showcasing fashion items in store and in windows. In this issue we bring you a variety of solutions, demonstrating the diverse choice of forms available, some offering elegance and sophistication while others add a hint of attitude and edginess to a brand.

City life Forming Reality is keeping it real with its City collection. A diverse male mannequin range, with life-like features in a variety of skin tones.

Ultra-cool and designed with a hint of attitude, this capsule collection embodies the strength and style of the modern male.

www.formingreality.co.uk

Sporty number Hans Boodt Mannequins has launched its renovated Sport showroom. More than 40-plus unique Sport mannequins can be found at the HQ/showroom in The Netherlands. All Hans Boodt mannequins share the same unique DNA: innovative, creative, Dutch, rebellious and young. The company’s vision is to use innovation and inspiration to be the authority in the shop window mannequin world. Its mission is to be the most desired ‘made to measure’ mannequin company in the fashion world — not by simply creating mannequins but by creating characters.

www.hansboodtmannequins.com

Celebrating an icon Proportion London has developed bespoke mannequins and bust forms for ‘Frida Kahlo: Making HerSelf Up’ at the V&A Museum. The exhibition presents an extraordinary collection of personal artefacts and clothing belonging to the iconic Mexican artist Frida Kahlo.

The hand-crafted mannequins were created in Kahlo’s image with recognisable features, such as her braided hair and iconic brow, but steer away from real-life representation. Figures were finished in grey paper mache to reflect the stoic appearance of her self-portraits and complement her flamboyant clothing. ‘We wanted a mannequin that would suggest Frida as a somehow timeless figure, who was here but not here, that feeling of being present but not present,’ says Claire Wilcox, senior co-curator of the exhibition.

www.proportionlondon.com

Custom option Universal Display has worked with the Monsoon team to update the brand’s previous custom mannequin range that it created, following 24 years of producing custom mannequins for the retailer. Universal took initial poses from its Project range and made custom changes to allow them to get the Monsoon feel and to work exactly within the environment and in the way the client wanted. Project is a stylish and fluid mannequin; the abstract appearance helps customers identify with the brand’s values and imagery.

www.universaldisplay.co.uk

88

mannequins Face value Window France has worked on a partnership with IRK Magazine and photographers French Cowboy on the ‘Futurism’ issue of the magazine. They chose the company’s Parisian showroom and mannequins for a creative photoshoot. ‘We were inspired by the lifelike qualities of Window France mannequins to create a story about a brand new humanoid mannequin or robot. In a near future, it will be possible to change one’s eye colour, and today with plastic surgery to change completely your appearance and maybe in the future you can change your appearance as easily as Window France mannequins,’ say Julien Crouigneau and Mia Macfarlane, founders of French Cowboy.

www.windowfrance.com

Body language H.O.L Group is proud to present Farringdon, the bespoke mannequin collection. Based in London, the company worked with one of the UK’s leading body language experts to create a range of mannequins that convey a contemporary attitude. Farringdon includes male, female, urban and plus-size adults along with playful children ideal for retail, shop and window displays.

www.hol-group.com

Trio of beauties ABC Mannequins has launched three new collections of mannequins: Asja, Futura and Anaise. Available in eight positions including two seated poses, Asja presents a young and delicate image. Asja (left) looks beautiful with added make-up and semi-realistic wigs. Anaise (middle) is available with two different heads and is suitable for wearing wigs as well as make-up. The Anaise Egg Collection has simple lines and elegance. The Futura collection (right) is contemporary, dynamic and resolute. Particular attention was given to the choice of symmetrical poses in the design phase as well as to the study of harmonic combinations of positions to create shop window groups with strong aesthetic impact. Attention to detail was given to the accurate study of hands; functional in hanging fashion accessories. The stylised face is suitable for several make-up options as well as wig styles.

It can also be customised by ABC’s creative department. Futura is available in both women and male versions in 14 positions.

www.abcmannequins.com

Visual charm Emilio Pucci and mannequin specialist Bonaveri came together during Pitti Immagine Uomo to celebrate history and innovation in an exhibition exploring collective creativity and craftsmanship.

Bonaveri’s mannequins and bust forms became the leading characters in a series of installations that explored the Pucci universe, demonstrating the brand’s significant role in the visual arts. Bonaveri and Pucci commissioned Emma Davidge, creative director of Chameleon Visual, to create an exhibition which led the viewer through a series of installations that marry the aesthetic of each brand. The journey through the exhibition highlighted Pucci’s design principles, set against the unique interiors and renaissance architecture of Palazzo Pucci in Florence.

www.bonaveri.com

89

directory

DIREcTORIES

www.retail-focus.co.uk/directory Visit the Retail Focus online directory at www.retail-focus.co.uk to discover a comprehensive list of the UK’s leading retail suppliers. Each listing contains indepth company information together with inspirational images, video footage and informative press material. You can also link through to company websites and connect with suppliers through Twitter and Facebook.

The Retail Supplier Directory is divided into a number of categories, such as design agencies, point-of-purchase, lighting, props and surfaces, to make the site easy to navigate.

To feature in the online directory, contact Terry Clark on 0845 6807405 or email terry@retailfocus.co

90

directory

Aluminium Fittings

Specialist Stockist of Aluminium Extrusions and Mild Steel Fittings for the shopfitting industry.

Extensive stock held of: *Slotted uprights *Aluminium slatwall *Perimeter Sections *Corner sections *Design and bespoke service.

T: 01273 582241 E: sales@diasystems.co.uk W: www.diagroup.co.uk S. www.twitter.com/DesignsinAlumin

Aluminium Fittings

Bespoke Display

Bespoke Display

Design Consultancies

Axis design, develop, manufacture and install bespoke retail display solutions.

We’ve worked with the biggest names on the high street, but approach every project in the same way, with the maximum thought for your brand, products and sales environment.

Kendu is a European company with over 18 years of experience in pioneering in-store visual solutions for retailers. We design, manage and manufacture in-house to guarantee the best results. Visit our new office and showroom in Hackney Wick, London.

We are a global retail agency. Visual Thinking develops strategy, skills, hearts and minds to deliver retail excellence and transform brand performance.

T, 020 3260 3888 E. info@axiseurope.com W.www.axiseurope.com/retail S. www.twitter.com/AxisEuropePlc

Bespoke Display

T: +44 (0)20 373 55 258 E: info@kendu.com W: www.kendu.com S: www.twitter.com/kenduinstore

Bespoke Display

T, +44 (0) 1788 543 331 E. mail@visualthinking.co.uk W. www.visualthinking.co.uk S. www.twitter.com/shoptactics

Design Consultancies

MicroSlat is a strong versatile 25mm fine pitched aluminium slatwall system.

With a bespoke range of components it can be used to build unique and interesting displays or add value to existing designs.

Original suppliers of display fabrics, textiles, PVC and polycarbonates for retail displays and exhibition stands since 1934 Backgrounds have been our background since backgrounds began and B Brown have more than 400 in stock.

Walker Bros (Elland) Ltd is an Engineering Manufacturing company specialising in sheet metalwork and plastic fabrication.

We supply precision metal and plastic products, components and light fabrications to a broad range of industries and markets throughout the UK and Europe.

IGNITION is an independent creative company Our multi-disciplined team work together to deliver exceptional retail and commercial environments, global exhibitions and brands.

T. 01325 351 276 E. sales@microslat.com W. www.microslat.com S. www.twitter.com/MicroSlat

T, 08705 340 340 E. customerservices@bbrown.co.uk W. www.bbrown.co.uk S. www.twitter.com/luvbbrown

T: 0 01422 310767 E: sales@wbelland.com W: www.wbelland.com

T, +44 (0) 1179 725168 E. victoria@ignitiondg.com W. www.ignitiondg.com

Audio Visual Integration

Anna Valley looks to help guide clients with their audio visual decision making by offering high end impartial advice and help manoeuvre them through the current “minefield” of different technology and services available to them. This process then enables them to have a clear vision of what they are actually striving to achieve within the budget available to them and then provides a full range of services in the delivery of that vision.

Bespoke Display

Hello Flamingo is a creative company for the retail and event sector, specialising in window displays, in store solution, POP ups, project management, design, manufacture and installation for bespoke projects at our fully equipped manufacturing workshop.

Brochure Holders

Design Consultancies

Brochure Holders International Limited is part of the global Taymar group recognised as a leading manufacturer of premium quality injection moulded leaflet holders and display solutions.

Committed to on-going product development the Taymar group offers one of the world’s largest collections of ‘clear view’ wall, floor and counter standing brochure displays.

We are TWO Visual, the retail agency specialising in visual merchandising.

Led by brand directors Jeanette Cheetham and Brendan Gordon we provide everything retailers need to make their brands visually dynamic, whilst improving team and commercial performance.

T: +44 (0)1473 229250 E: sales@brochureholders.co.uk W: www.brochureholders.com

T, +44 (0) 1858 414275 E. hello@twovisual.co.uk W. www. twovisual.co.uk S. www.twitter.com/TWO_Visual

T: +44 (0)208 941 1000 E: nick.shaw@annavalley.co.uk W: www.annavalley.co.uk/avintegration

T: 01273 585768 E: info@helloflamingo.co.uk W: www.helloflamingo.co.uk S. www.twitter.com/helloflamingo1

Balloons & Bunting

Bespoke Display

Climate Control

Display

No.1 Advertising Balloon Service: • Printed Latex and Foil Balloons • Helium Gas delivery and collection • Flags, Bunting and Banners • Promotional Sashes and T-shirts • Multi-store distribution nationwide

JPMA is a worldwide leader in designing and manufacturing high-quality store fixtures and visual elements made of wood, metal and acrylic. We make everything all under the one roof and offer designs and finishes not available anywhere else in the industry.

Air Control & Development Ltd are Daikin, Mitsubishi and Toshiba accredited contractors, specialising in providing quality air conditioning, ventilation and overdoor heater installations, service & maintenance within the retail sector.

arken are a UK design and manufacturing facility creating bespoke poster display solutions. As well as our bespoke offer, we provide off the shelf products such as poster frames, light boxes, poster hanging systems, pavement signs, forecourt signs, all available in a range of colours and sizes.

T +44 777 444 5784 E: benjamin@jpmaglobal.com W: www.jpmaglobal.com

T 01922 455523 E: info@aircontrol.co.uk W: www.aircontrol.co.uk S: www.twitter.com/AirControl123

T: +44 (0)1638 565656 E: info@arken-pop.com W: www.arken-pop.com

T, 01494 774376 E. sales@b-loony.com W. www.b-loony.com

91

directory

Display

Focused on our customer’s unique needs, with expert knowledge of the procurement market, and a firm grip on the entire visual merchandising supply chain, we are specialists in designing and delivering complex point of sale projects.

T +49 (0) 911 97 13 389 E: info-uk@barthelmess.com W: www.barthelmess.com

Display

Display - DIGITAL

FURNITURE

JPMA is a worldwide leader in designing and manufacturing high-quality store fixtures and visual elements made of wood, metal and acrylic. We make everything all under the one roof and offer designs and finishes not available anywhere else in the industry.

Crystal Display Systems is already a leading UK designer, distributor and value added reseller of flat panel display solutions. We have a vast array of media players, interactive displays, videowalls and shelf edge displays.

Our knowledge and expertise has also led to us being one of the European leaders in transparent LCD.

Spur Creative Workshop deliver unique visual merchandising solutions for retail brands. Boasting a wealth of experience in high quality prop making we create display concepts for window staging, POS and brand awareness campaigns.

T +44 777 444 5784 E: benjamin@jpmaglobal.com W: www.jpmaglobal.com

T: +44 (0) 1634 292 025 E: info@crystal-display.com W: www.crystal-display.com S. www.twitter.com/CrystalDisplays

T 01892 890608 E: phil@spurcreative.co.uk W www.spurcreative.co.uk S: www.twitter.com/ spur_creative

Display

Display

Display - DIGITAL

FURNITURE

Durable have been one of Europe’s largest business supplies manufacturers for almost 100 years.

We’re pioneers in developing and producing innovative solutions designed for retail from literature displays and POS to signage and display solutions.

Spur Creative Workshop deliver unique visual merchandising solutions for retail brands. Boasting a wealth of experience in high quality prop making we create display concepts for window staging, POS and brand awareness campaigns.

We provide total end to end solutions encompassing all aspects of designing, implementing, managing and supporting multi-faceted marketing technology concepts and Digital Screen Media networks.

We create bespoke tailored solutions for retail, interiors, exhibitions, museums and 3D and we know one size does not fit all. Our teams are always ready for the challenges, big or small.

T 01892 890608 E: phil@spurcreative.co.uk W www.spurcreative.co.uk S: www.twitter.com/ spur_creative

T, +44 (0)845 481 8020 E. info@screenmediatechnology.com W.screenmediatechnology.com S. www.twitter.com/ScreenMediaTech

T: 01923 800666 E: info@stylographics.co.uk W: www.stylographics.com S. www.twitter.com/hellostylo

T. 01202 897 071 E. customeroperations@durable-uk.com W. www.durable-uk.com S. www.twitter.com/durableuk

Display

We are ICON. We create and deliver engaging brand and live experiences, particularly in the retail sector.

T: +44 (0) 20 7593 5200 E: enquiries@icon-world.com W: www.icon-world.com S: www.twitter.com/ICON_HQ

Display

EPOS

GRAPHICS

Providing Scotland’s signage, exhibition displays, digitally printed wallpapers, LED flex faces, light boxes and window graphics. Located in the centre of Scotland we are ideally situated to cover your requirements throughout Scotland. We can offer huge savings with an excellent, professional and prompt service

Offering an extensive range of EPOS hardware from world class suppliers such as Star Micronics, Honeywell and Posiflex, DED offer the complete EPOS hardware solution alongside a unique rewritable loyalty system.

Graphica Display print, produce and install retail graphics including till point graphics, window graphics, LED lightboxes, cut & printed vinyl and much more. Nationwide & Euorpean delivery and installation.

T: 0131 337 1237 E: info@specializedsigns.co.uk W: www.specializedsigns.co.uk FB: Specialized-Signs

T: 01797 320636 E: sales@ded.co.uk W: www.ded.co.uk S: www.twitter.com/dedltd

Display

Display

Impulse POP specialises in Point of Purchase display systems for the Retail sector.

We offer many years of experience in all aspects of retail design, with in house manufacture - including quick turnaround prototypes, or overseas manufacture, delivery, installation and retail merchandising.

Woodwood Group –Tx Frame UK are a specialist in tension fabric display systems and LED light boxes. We are able to deliver the highest quality service with a friendly but professional approach to ensure you receive the spectacular results you deserve.

Armourcoat is the world’s foremost supplier of polished plasters, sculptural effects and innovative surface finishes.

T, 01767 682756 E. sales@impulsepop.co.uk W.www.impulsepop.co.uk S. www.twitter.com/impulsepop

T, 01376 295 016 E. sales@txframe.co.uk W. www.txframe.co.uk

T. +44 (0)1732 460 668 E. sales@armourcoat.co.uk W. www.armourcoat.com S. www.twitter.com/Armourcoat

92

Finishes

T: 0845 3730073 E: info@graphicadisplay.co.uk W:www.graphicadisplay.co.uk S. www.twitter.com/graphicatweet

GRAPHICS

We create bespoke tailored solutions for retail, interiors, exhibitions, museums and 3D and we know one size does not fit all. Our teams are always ready for the challenges, big or small.

T: 01923 800666 E: info@stylographics.co.uk W: www.stylographics.com S. www.twitter.com/hellostylo

directory

interactive displays

MANNEQUINS

pop/pos

Crystal Display Systems is already a leading UK designer, distributor and value added reseller of flat panel display solutions. We have a vast array of media players, interactive displays, videowalls and shelf edge displays.

Our knowledge and expertise has also led to us being one of the European leaders in transparent LCD.

Rootstein Display Mannequins is a creative mannequin manufacturer and renovation specialist - delivering both ready-made and bespoke concepts for fashion retailers, globally.

We are IPOS. A creative design agency whose extensive and impressive client list speaks volumes for the professional services we offer.

We design, produce and install all aspects of our client’s POS. From instore graphics, window vinyls and 3D bespoke window displays to full multi location campaign roll outs.

Durable have been one of Europe’s largest business supplies manufacturers for almost 100 years.

We’re pioneers in developing and producing innovative solutions designed for retail from literature displays and POS to signage and display solutions.

T: +44 (0) 1634 292 025 E: info@crystal-display.com W: www.crystal-display.com S. www.twitter.com/CrystalDisplays

T: +44 20 7381 1447 E: sales@adelrootstein.co.uk W: www.rootstein.com/ S. @rootstein_

T: 0161 477 8501 E: info@ipos-design.co.uk W: www.ipos-design.co.uk S. www.twitter.com/iposdesign

T. 01202 897 071 E. customeroperations@durable-uk.com W. www.durable-uk.com S. www.twitter.com/durableuk

LED LIGHTING

pop/pos

Addlux supplies high-tech LED lighting and display technologies for the retail sector, including the largest, thinnest and most cost-effective light sheet on the market today.

Fast turnaround of deliveries and prototypes at competitive prices.

Harrison Products provide one the largest ranges of POS and Display componentry in the UK. We are able to supply off the shelf and customised products to suit your project. We pride ourselves on our industry leading service and super quick delivery options.

T: 0333 800 1828 E: info@addlux.com W: www.addlux.com S. www.twitter.com/addlux

T: +44 (0)1451 830083 E: sales@harrisonproducts.net W harrisonproducts.net

Literature Display

Brochure Holders International Limited is part of the global Taymar group recognised as a leading manufacturer of premium quality injection moulded leaflet holders and display solutions.

Committed to on-going product development the Taymar group offers one of the world’s largest collections of ‘clear view’ wall, floor and counter standing brochure displays.

T: +44 (0)1473 229250 E: sales@brochureholders.co.uk W: www.brochureholders.com

Maintenance

Air Control & Development Ltd are Daikin, Mitsubishi and Toshiba accredited contractors, specialising in providing quality air conditioning, ventilation and overdoor heater installations, service & maintenance within the retail sector.

T 01922 455523 E: info@aircontrol.co.uk W: www.aircontrol.co.uk S: www.twitter.com/AirControl123

pop/pos

Durable have been one of Europe’s largest business supplies manufacturers for almost 100 years.

We’re pioneers in developing and producing innovative solutions designed for retail from literature displays and POS to signage and display solutions.

T. 01202 897 071 E. customeroperations@durable-uk.com W. www.durable-uk.com S. www.twitter.com/durableuk

pop/pos

We are ICON. We create and deliver engaging brand and live experiences, particularly in the retail sector.

T: +44 (0) 20 7593 5200 E: enquiries@icon-world.com W: www.icon-world.com S: www.twitter.com/ICON_HQ

signage

pop up

vm

Hello Flamingo is a creative company for the retail and event sector, specialising in window displays, in store solution, POP ups, project management, design, manufacture and installation for bespoke projects at our fully equipped manufacturing workshop.

GENESIS MANNEQUINS design and produce high-class and trend-lead shop window mannequins, busts and displays for the international fashion industry. Additionally we offer style, trend and product consultation as well as a comprehensive after-sales service.

T: 01273 585768 E: info@helloflamingo.co.uk W: www.helloflamingo.co.uk S. www.twitter.com/helloflamingo1

T: +49 (0) 5752 1803 0 E: info@genesis-display.com W: www.genesis-display.com S: www.twitter.com/GenesisDisplay

Retail Consultancy

vm

We are a global retail agency. Visual Thinking develops strategy, skills, hearts and minds to deliver retail excellence and transform brand performance.

Rootstein Display Mannequins is a creative mannequin manufacturer and renovation specialist - delivering both ready-made and bespoke concepts for fashion retailers, globally.

T, +44 (0) 1788 543 331 E. mail@visualthinking.co.uk W. www.visualthinking.co.uk S. www.twitter.com/shoptactics

T: +44 20 7381 1447 E: sales@adelrootstein.co.uk W: www.rootstein.com/ S. @rootstein_

slatwall

Specialist Stockist of Aluminium Extrusions and Mild Steel Fittings for the shopfitting industry.

Extensive stock held of: *Slotted uprights *Aluminium slatwall *Perimeter Sections *Corner sections *Design and bespoke service.

T: 01273 582241 E: sales@diasystems.co.uk W: www.diagroup.co.uk S. www.twitter.com/DesignsinAlumin

VM TOOLS AND TRAINING

We are a global retail agency. Visual Thinking develops strategy, skills, hearts and minds to deliver retail excellence and transform brand performance.

T, +44 (0) 1788 543 331 E. mail@visualthinking.co.uk W. www.visualthinking.co.uk S. www.twitter.com/shoptactics

93

Q&A

TOM HORNE & WILL GREEN Co-founders of L’Estrange London, Tom Horne and Will Green are putting collaboration and community at the core of their menswear fashion business. The guys sat down with The Retail Exchange podcast host Ben Bland to discuss the story behind the brand, the challenges for fashion start-ups, and the rise of ‘Essentialism’.

BB. How did you come up with the idea?

TH. Me and Will met each other at university a long time ago. We were both quite interested in clothing, but it was a particular item that had interested us, which was the hoodie. Quite a scruffy garment that you wear to the gym or you wear to lounge around the sofa, but you’d never wear it to a smart location.

We loved wearing hoodies but we felt that it would be great if we can try and upgrade the hoodie from something that was really scruffy to something that was wearable in multiple locations. But it was a bit of a pipe dream I suppose, a bit of a passion thing, and then it started to get more shape.

When you’re launching a brand in a field that is creative, that BB. you both clearly feel passionate about, it could put real strain on a friendship; was there any of that?

TH. I think there’s always going to be arguments here and there, particularly when we’re good friends. But it started as friends, we still live together, we worked in our flat up until pretty recently to be honest. We had people working for us and I think we’re lucky in that we’re both quite good natured and we’re both really passionate about what we want to try and achieve. Any of the disagreements in some form tend to be over quite simple matters.

We lived in a flat with eight guys back in Edinburgh; it just WG meant that you kind of just know how to get on with stuff. I think that’s just part of our experience, so we’ve seen enough pairs not work and I don’t think we could chalk it up to anything except just having a bit of good nature and a bit of patience.

Community and sustainability are key values of the L’Estrange BB. brand. Was that something you agreed on at the outset or has that evolved over time?

WG. It’s become intrinsic, it was never a strategy so much as it was just always at the core. When we first started thinking about wanting to make products it was about making it the best place, having a close relationship with the factories; the agent that we have in Portugal who does all of our products now. We work with a few different places, we’ve worked with right since the beginning. There’s definitely been some ups and downs just because our products are really difficult to make, just because they’re quite technical, but having good relationships with those people is essential. Overall, the ideals of what we’re trying to do with the brand is have a wardrobe of fewer items and we feel like we’ve hit almost peak consumption. The way fast fashion has completely changed the way that we perceive products of, the value of products, and there’s a real lack of awareness of the true costs of that item that you are finding sub-£10, £5 t-shirts, whoever it’s from, what’s the impact on that

94

and how long it’s supposed to last, and we think a lot about how... Why can’t we have a culture where products that you make are supposed to last?

The size of our space in Soho is pretty small, it’s about 300 sq TH. ft, and so we want to try and do as much as possible that we can with that space. Like our wardrobe, it’s about doing more with what you have. We’re doing 24 events in 24 weeks in one small space, and looking at everyone from getting more out of your mind, an ultra-marathon runner doing talks to getting more out of your money to a pop-up barber shop. Brands and people that align with the view that we’re trying to talk about.

BB. Tell me about the L’Estrange Apartment concept.

TH. L’Estrange started in my apartment; we had a lot of people coming over there and it felt a bit like home. We’re constantly looking to try and blur the lines between what retail is and I think that’s where it started; we wanted to try and make it home from home. That means someone coming out, spending a lot longer in the store, having a great personal service, relaxing, grabbing a drink and maybe even staying for an event. We’re testing a lot of new ideas though. Our latest concept is more around pretty much a box in the middle of Soho that’s a much smaller floor space, smaller dwell time, but at the same time still harnessing the same community aspect by running these events. I think our permanent space, as and when it comes, will be almost a fusion between the two; it’s something that you can lounge around in, grab coffee, go to a talk and also buy clothes and it almost wants to be your new home, and whether it’s called The Apartment I don’t know, but watch this space.

To listen to the full interview, visit www.theretailexchange.co.uk

www.retail-focus.co.uk

TELEPHONE

WEBSITE

+4 4 (0)20 7377 1776

w w w.black svisual.com

I N S TA G R A M

I N S TA G R A M

black svisuallondon

goneandnotforgot ten

PINTEREST

EMAIL

Black s Visual London

s tudio @ black svisual.com