101-L-7-h by mayank govil

ikB 77- diM+k cquuk] ÁkFkfed cqukoV rFkk vkn” vkn”kZ diM+s (WEAVING, BASIC WEAVES AND STANDARD FABRICS) bl Áksxzke ds igys ikB~;Øe dk mís”; vkidks VSDlVkby ds fo"k; dh mPp Lrj ij tkudkjh nsuk gSA fdlh Hkh diM+s ds mRikn dh lcls NksVh ewy bdkbZ js'ks gksrs gSa] tks igyh bdkbZ dh fo"k; lkexzh gSA nwljh bdkbZ /kkxs ls lEcfU/kr gSa tks js'kksa dk vkn'kZ gSA /kkxksa dk rkuk&ckuk cuk dj diM+k curk gSA bl ÁfØ;k dks oL= cquuk dgrs gSaA oL=] fufVax }kjk Hkh cuk;s tk ldrs gSa ;k ukWu oksou diM+s Hkh cuk;s tk ldrs gSaA diM+ksa ds ;s nl Ádkj bl bdkbZ esa lfEefyr fd;s tk;saxsA orZeku ikB diM+k cquus rFkk cqus gq, diM+s ls lEcfU/kr gSA

7-0

mís';

(Objectives)

bl ikB ds v/;;u ds Ik'pkr~ vki tku ik,¡xs& • cqukbZ dh ÁfØ;k • ywe ij cqukbZ ds pj.k • ywe ds Hkkx rFkk xfrfof/k;k¡ • vk/kkjHkwr Áeq[k cqukb;k¡ vkSj mudh fo'ks"krk,¡ • Hkkjr esa miyC/k dqN oL= o cqukb;k¡

7-1

ÁLrkouk

(Introduction)

vf/kdrj oL= /kkxksa ls cuk,¡ tkrs gSaA dqN gh lh/ks js'kksa dh lgk;rk ls curs gSa tks ukWu oksou (Non Woven) dgykrs gSaA budh tkudkjh ge vkxs ÁkIr djssaxsA /kkxs ds fuekZ.k dh tkudkjh ge fiNys ikB esa ÁkIr dj gh pqds gSaA ge tkurs gSa fd LVsiy js'kksa ;k fQykesaV rarq dks vkil esa ,saBu nsdj /kkxs dk fuekZ.k gksrk gSA ;gh /kkxs oL= cukus ds fy, Á;ksx fd, tkrs gSaA oL= dbZ fof/k;ksa ls cuk, tk ldrs gSa ftuesa ls lcls vf/kd Ápfyr fof/k ^^cqukbZ** gSA cqukbZ esa rkuk (Warp) rFkk ckuk (Weft) dks ledks.k (Perpendicular) j[krs gq, mUgsa vUrjxzfFkr (Interlace) dj oL= fuekZ.k fd;k tkrk gSA rkus ds /kkxs] oL= dh yEckbZ dh fn'kk esa gksrs gSa rFkk bUgsa ,sUM~l (Ends) ds uke ls Hkh tkuk tkrk gSA ckus ds /kkxs oL= dh pkSM+kbZ dh fn'kk esa gksrs gSa o bUgsa fid (Pick) ds uke ls tkuk tkrk gSA bl ikB esa ge cqukbZ dh iw.kZ ÁfØ;k rFkk Áeq[k cqukbZ;ksa dh tkudkjh ÁkIr djsaxsA fuV~sM (Knitted) oL=] cqus gq, oL=ksa ds nwljs egRoiw.kZ oxZ dk Áfrfuf/kRo djrs gSa ftudk fuekZ.k /kkxksa ds Qanksa ds }kjk gksrk gSA rhljk oxZ] ukWuoksou (Nonwoven) oL=ksa dk gS tks u rks cqus gksrs gSa] vkSj u gh fufVax }kjk cus gksrs gSa] oju~ ftuesa raarqvksa dks fcuk fdlh la?kfVr Øe ds uens dh Hkk¡fr xw¡Fk fn;k 1

tkrk gSA ukWu oksou oL=ksa ds vfrfjDr FkksM+h ek=k esa tkyhnkj oL= (Net Fabrics)] csyas (Laces)] czsM (Braids) Hkh cuk, tkrs gSaA bl ikB esa vkidks dqN vkSj lkekU; LVSaMMZ oL= tks diM+k cquus ds rhu ewy fof/k;ksa ij vk/kkfjr gS dk o.kZu Hkkx 7-3 esa fd;k tk;sxkA vf/kdrj oL= ftudk o.kZu fd;k x;k gS] lwrh /kkxksa ij vk/kkfjr gSa] ijUrq dqN fefJr /kkxksa ds oL= Hkh gks ldrs gSa tSls dkWVu & iksfyLVj CySaM ;k nwljs oL= tSls js'ke] Åu ;k d`f=e js'kksa ls cus oL=A

7-2

varZxz xFz ku vFkok cqukbZ kbZ dh ÁfØ;k (Interlacement or Process of Weaving)

7-2-1 vkjafHkd ppkZ

(Introductory remarks )

rkus dk ckus ds lkFk varxZzFku ,d ;kaf=d ÁfØ;k gS tks lkekU;r% ,d dj?ks (Loom) ij iw.kZ dh tkrh gSA bl ikB esa ge cqukbZ dh ÁfØ;k dk foospu djsaxs ftlesa dj?ks ds fofHké Hkkxksa rFkk muds dk;ksZa ds o.kZu dk Hkh lekos'k gksxkA ikB esa dj?ks dh fofHké ÁfØ;kvksa dh Hkh ppkZ gksxhA Li"Vr% ;g ,d foLr`r rFkk tfVy fo"k; gS vkSj bl ikB esa bldh dsoy ,d laf{kIr cká :ijs[kk ÁLrqr dh tk,xhA cqukbZ ds fo"k; esa dqN crkus ds igys Hkkjr esa oL=ksa ds mRiknu ls lacaf/kr dqN vk¡dM+s nsuk mi;qDr gksxkA o"kZ 2000&01 esa Hkkjr esas 400 djksM+ oxZ ehVj ls vf/kd oL= dk mRiknu gqvkA blesa ls 63 Áfr'kr fo|qr dj?kk vo[k.M (Power Loom Sector) }kjk] 14 Áfr'kr gFkdj?kk vo[k.M (Handloom Sector) }kjk] 19 Áfr'kr fufVax okys oL= (Hosiery) rFkk 4 Áfr'kr O;ofLFkr fey vo[k.M (Organized Mill Sector) }kjk mRikfnr fd;k x;kA ;g dsoy O;ofLFkr fey vo[k.M gaS ftuesa “kVy jfgr (Shuttle Less ) dj?kksa rFkk mér dj?kksa dk Á;ksx fd;k tkrk gS ijUrq og dqy mRikfnr oL= dk ,d cgqr NksVk va'k ek= mRikfnr djrs gSaA tgk¡ rd gFkdj?kk vkSj fo|qr dj?kk ds Áeq[k Hkkxksa dk laca/k gS] nksuksa ds chp cM+h lekurk gSA cqukbZ ÁfØ;k dh foospuk djrs le; ge dj?ks dk o.kZu djsaxs rFkk ;g le>us dk Á;kl djsaxs fd dj?ks ds fofHké Hkkx fdl Ádkj oL= mRiknu esa lg;ksx djrs gSaA

7-2-2 cqukbZ dh ÁfØ;k

(The process of weaving )

,d cqus gq, diM+s dk mRiknu dj?kk vFkok ywe (Loom) uked ;a= ij fd;k tkrk gSA oL= fuekZ.k dk ÁkjfEHkd fcUnq okiZ che (Warp Beam) gS] tks ,d jksyj ij yisVs x, /kkxksa dh pknj ds leku gSA lcls igys bls dj?ks ij LFkkukarfjr djus ds fy, rS;kj fd;k tkrk gSA ;|fi ,d dj?ks ds fofHké Hkkxksa rFkk muds dk;ksZa dk o.kZu vkxs py dj fd;k tk,xk ijUrq Li"Vrk ds fy, ,d dj?ks ds fiNys Hkkx esa fLFkr okiZ che ds lkFk ,d dj?ks dk js[kk fp= Ánf'kZr fd;k x;k gS ¼fp= 5-1a½A

dj?ks ij okiZ “khV (Warp Sheet) dk ekxZ /;ku nsus ;ksX; gSA /kkxs ds varxzZFku dk okLrfod dk;Z dj?ks ds vkxs ds Hkkx esa gksrk gS vkSj fQj cqus diM+s dks DykWFk jksyj (Cloth Roller) ij yisV fy;k tkrk gSA bl voLFkk esa ;g le> ysuk f'k{kkÁn gksxk fd okiZ che dks /kkxs ls dSls Hkjk tkrk gSA okiZ che cukus ds fy, cuk, tkus okys diM+s dh yEckbZ o pkSM+kbZ dh tkudkjh vo”; gksuh pkfg,A eku yhft, fd 400 ehVj yEck diM+k tks 2400 /kkxksa dh pkSM+kbZ dk gS] mRikfnr djuk gSA ;g Hkh eku yhft, fd okiZ che dks cukus ds fy, tks Øhy LVSaM (Creel Stand) laLFkkfir gS] ml ij ,d le; esa ,d lkFk 200 ckWfcu Hkjus dh O;oLFkk gSA ,sls esa rkus dk fuekZ.k ¼400 ehVj yEcs½ 200 /kkxksa dks okiZ che ij ,d pknj ds :i esa yisV dj fd;k tk,xkA ;g 200 /kkxksa dk ,d CykWd dgykrk gSA /;ku nsa fd okiZ che dks iwjk djus ds fy, bl ÁfØ;k dks 12 ckj nqgjkuk iM+sxk vFkkZr~ 12 CykWd cuk, tk,¡xsA ;gk¡ vkidks ;g tkuuk vko';d gS fd ÁR;sd diM+s esa Áfr bap /kkxksa dh la[;k ,d leku ugha gksrhA vr% diM+s dh xq.koŸkk ds vuq:Ik /kkxksa dh la[;k yh tkrh gSA fn, x, okiZ che ls lacaf/kr fooj.k dk fglkc yxkus ds ckn ,d okbZfUMax e”khu (Winding Machine) dk Á;ksx djds [kkyh fQjfd;ksa (Bobbins) dks /kkxksa }kjk Hkjk tkrk gSA Hkjh gqbZ ckWfcuksa dks fQj Øhy LVSaM ij p<+k;k tkrk gSA ÁR;sd ckWfcu ls vyx vyx /kkxk ysdj mUgsa ,d lkFk ,d leryh; pknj ds :i esa ys tk;k tkrk gS ,oa che ds ,d Hkkx ij 400 ehVj yEck 200 /kkxksa okyk rkus dk ,d Hkkx yisV fy;k tkrk gSA ;gh fØ;k 12 ckj nqgjkus ij okiZ che iwjh rjg Hkj tkrk gS rFkk dj?ks ij LFkkukUrfjr djus gsrq rS;kj gks tkrk gSA ,slk djus ls igys lkekU; vkS|ksfxd Loh—fr (Commercialy Acceptable) i)fr ;g gS fd rkus ds /kkxksa dks ekM+ (Sizing) yxkdj /kkxksa dks lVus dh {kerk (Cohesion) Ánku dh tk,] ftlls fd mRiknu ds nkSjku og fcuk ck/kk ds Åij uhps gks ik,A vkxs gksus okyh fØ;kvksa esa ,d gFkdj?kk dks ,d jSf[kd fp= (Line Diagram) dh lgk;rk ls vPNh rjg le>k;k tk ldrk gS ftlesa [kqys rkus fn[kk, x, gSaA fp= 5-1b ¼vf/kd v/;;u gsrq lq>ko la[;k 1 ns[ksa½ esa dj?ks ds fofHké Hkkxksa dh lwph nh x;h gSA vc fp= la[;k 5-1a ,oa 5-1b dh lgk;rk ls cqukbZ ÁfØ;k dk o.kZu fd;k tk;sxkA

fp= 77-1 b ,d][kqys rkus dk jSf[kd fp= G. cSd jsLV J. jhM ;k da/kh

A. VªsMy

D. gSMy

B. VªsMy

E. gSMy

H. yht+

C. VkWi

F. okiZ

I. yht+

iqyh

che

jkWM

K. DykWFk L. Ý.V

QSy

jsLV

M. DykWFk

che

N. Q+YØe O.

“ksM

ÁkjEHk esa Hkjs okiZ che dks fLFkfr ‘F” ¼fp= 5-1b½ esa LFkkukUrfjr fd;k tkrk gS ,oa rkus dks cSd jsLV ‘G” ij ys tk dj ,d ds ckn ,d ls yht+ jkWMl ‘H rFkk I” ds Åij rFkk uhps ls ys tkrs gq, gSMy ‘D rFkk E” dh vk¡[k (Eye) ds jkLrs ls gksdj ys tk;k tkrk gSA gSMy ,d cqukbZ Ýse es yxs gksrs gSa ftls gkjusl (Harness) dgrs gSA vc rkus ds /kkxksa dks ,d da?kh dh vk—fr okyh ^jhM* ‘J” ds nk¡rksa esa ls gksrs gq, QSy (Fell) rd ys tk;k tkrk gS tks diM+s esa vafre ckus rd gksrk gSA ogk¡ ls rkuk ÝaV jslV ‘L” ¼fp= 5-1b½ ls gksrs gq;s DykWFk che (Cloth Beam) ‘M” rd ys tk;k tkrk gSA “ksM ij VªsfMy (Treadle) A rFkk B dks Åij o uhps dh xfrfof/k dk fu;a=.k djus ds fy, iSMy (Pedal) gksrs gSaA iSMy rkus dks ,dkUrj ls Åij vkSj uhps dh vksj nks irksZa esa vyx djds ,d ekxZ dk fuekZ.k djrs gSa ftlds jkLrs ls gksdj ckus dk /kkxk fudkyk tk ldrk gSA tc iSMy dks uhps nck;k tkrk gS rks blls Mksjh }kjk tqM+h gSaMy ,d ekxZ cukrh gS tks fd fupyh irZ dk fuekZ.k djrh gS rFkk nwljh gaSMy Åijh irZ cuk, tkus dk dkj.k curh gSA bl Ádkj VkWi iqyh (Top Pulley) ‘C” dh lgk;rk ls ,d 'ksM (Shed) dk fuekZ.k gksrk gSA Ckuk ;k fid (Pick) fudkys tkus ds Ik'pkr~ ^'ksM* cUn dj fn;k tkrk gS vkSj VsªMy dks uhps nck dj ,d nwljk ^fid* Hkjus ds fy, cuk;k tkrk gSA bl Ádkj VªsMy dks ckjh ckjh ls nckdj lknk cqukbZ ¼vkxs of.kZr gS½ dk mRiknu fd;k tkrk gSA gSMy tks Mksjh ;k /kkrq dh iryh rkj ls cuh gksrh gS] cM+h la[;k esa ,d Ýse esa tqM+h gksrh gS vkSj gSMy 'kk¶V (Headle Shaft) lfgr bl iwjs lewg dks gkjusl Ýse (Harness frame) dgrs gSaA cqukbZ ds fofHké Ádkjksa dks ÁkIr djus ds fy, gkjusl dh la[;k esa cgqr vUrj gksrk gSA lknk cqukbZ ds fy, gkjusl dh U;wure la[;k 2 gksrh gS ijUrq ;g la[;k vf/kd tfVy cqukbZ okys oL=ksa esa cgqr vf/kd Hkh gks ldrh gS ¼lkfgR; esa vf/kdre 40 gkjusl dk mYys[k gS½ oL= fuekZ.k esa rhu ÁkFkfed rFkk nks f}rh;d pkysa gksrh gaSA

ÁkFkfed pkysa

(Primary motions)

1- 'ksfMax (Shedding) & ;g gkjusl dh lgk;rk ls okiZ che dks nks Hkkxksa esa foHkkftr djus dh ÁfØ;k gSA ÁR;sd gkjusl ds lkFk gSMy dk ,d lewg gksrk gSA ÁR;sd gSMy esa ,d gSMy fNæ (Heald Eye) gksrk gSA gSMy /kkrq dk ,d rkj gksrk gS ftlesa ls gks dj ÁR;sd rkus dk /kkxk (Warp Yarn) [khapk tkrk gSA ge tkurs gSa fd cqukbZ esa uewus dh iqu%o`fr (Weaving Design) gksrh gS o mRiknu ;kstuk (Plan) ds vuqlkj gksrk gSA nks] 4

rhu ;k ik¡p gkjusl esa rkuk dks [khapk tkrk gSA ÁR;sd gkjusl dh xfrfof/k ds lkFk lkFk ÁR;sd leqg ls tqM+s rkus ds /kkxs Hkh Åij vkSj uhps dh xfrfof/k dh tkrh gS tks fd okiZ ¼rkus½ ds lewg dks irksZa esa ck¡V nsrh gSA bl Ádkj fufeZr ekxZ (Opening) dks 'ksM (Shed) dgrs gSaS vkSj okiZ ds /kkxksa dk lewg esa foHkkftr gksuk ^^'ksfMax** dgykrk gS ¼fp= 5-2a½ 2- fifdax (picking) & 'ksM ds Hkhrj ckuk dk /kkxk Mkyus dh ÁfØ;k fifdax dgykrh gSA ;g ,d 'kVy (shuttle) dh lgk;rk ls dh tkrh ¼fp= 5-2b½ gSA

3- chfVax (Beating) & bl ÁfØ;k esa jhM uked ,d da?kk ^'ksM* esa [khaps x, ckus ds /kkxs dks ys tk dj bls vafre ckuk] ftls ^^Qsy vkWQ DykWFk** (Fell of The Cloth) Hkh dgrs gSa] ds lkFk yxk nsrk gSA jhM ,d Ýse esa yxh gksrh gSA bl Ýse dks ^tqykgs dh da?kh* ;k dHkh&dHkh cSVu (Batten) Hkh dgrs gSa ¼fp= 5-2c,d½ A

f}rh;d pkysa

(Secondary motions)

1- ySV vkWQ (Let off) & ;g okiZ che ls layXu ,d ;a=koyh (Mechanism) gS tks rkuksa ds /kkxksa dks NksM+us dk rFkk fu;af=r djus dk dk;Z djrh gSA diM+k cqurs le; ÁR;sd ckuk fudyus ds ckn ;g fØ;k gksrh gSA 2Vsd vi (Take up) & ifg;ksa dh ,d J`a[kyk oL= ds fifdax vi (Picking

a b

fp= 77-2 ywe ij cqukbZ djrs djrs le; fofHké çfØ;k,¡

Up) dk

3- fu;a=.k djrh gS rFkk ,ejh jksy uked ,d jksyj ds ek/;e ls DykWFk jkWyj (Cloth Roller) ij cquk diM+k yisVus dk (Wrapping) dk;ZZ gksrk gSA 5

Lo;a Lo;a tk¡p Á'u Á'u

(Self Check Questions)

1- oL= jpuk dh rhu Áeq[k fof/k;ksa dk uke crk,¡A 2- ,d dj?ks ds N% Áeq[k Hkkxksa ds uke nsaA 3- fjDr LFkkuksa dh iwfrZ djsa & i) oL= fuekZ.k esa _________]_________ vkSj _________ ÁkFkfed pkysa gksrh gSaA ii) rkus ds /kkxs oL= dh _________ esa QSys gksrs gSa tcfd ckuk ds /kkxksa dk QSyko oL= dh ___________ esa gksrk gSA iii) oL= dh cqukbZ ,d ________ ij gksrh gSA iv) Rkkus ds /kkxs ________ uke ls tkus tkrs gSa tcfd ckus ds /kkxksa dks _________dgrs gSaA

xfrfof/k

(ACTIVITY)

1- viuh oL= Á;ksx'kkyk esa fLFkr gFkdj?ks dk ijh{k.k djsaA i) dj?ks dk fp= vkbojh 'khV ij cuk dj blds fofHké Hkkxksa dks fpfUg~r djsaA ii) rkuk p<+kus ,oa diM+k cquus ls lacaf/kr pj.kksa dks lh[kus dk Á;kl djsaA

7-3

vk/kkjHkwr cqukbZ;k¡

(Basic Weaves)

cqukbZ ds nkSjku rkuk vkSj ckuk dk vusd fof/k ls vUrZxazFku fd;k tk ldrk ftlls fofHké Ádkj dh cqukbZ ÁkIr gksrh gSaA ,d cqukbZ dks mldh bdkbZ dh iqujko`fÙk }kjk igpkuk tk ldrk gSA vk/kkjHkwr cqukbZ og gksrhs gSa tks viuh bdkbZ (Repeat Unit) dh jpuk gsrq rkuk vkSj ckuk dh ,d fuEure la[;k iz;ksx djrh gS] tSls lknk cqukbZ (Plain Weave) esa dsoy nks rkuk vkSj nks ckuk dk iz;ksx gksrk gSA V~foy cqukbZ (Twill Weave) gsrq 3 rkuk vkSj 3 ckuk dh vko';drk gksrh gS tcfd lkfVu cqukbZ esa fuEure 5 rkuk vkSj 5 ckuk ds /kkxksa dh vko”;drk gksrh gSA bUgha rhu Áeq[k ;k vk/kkjHkwr cqukbZ;ksa ls cM+h la[;k esa fofo/krk mRié gks ldrh gSA vc bu vk/kkjHkwr cqukbZ ds fo"k; esa dqN foLrkj ls crk;k tk,xkA

7-3-1 lknk cqukbZ

(Plain weave)

Lkknk cqukbZ vUrxzZFku dk ljyre :i gS rFkk bls dsoy nks gkjusl }kjk mRié fd;k tk ldrk gS ¼fp= 5-3 ½A ,d gkjusl le (Even) vadksa okys /kkxksa dh xfrfof/k dks fu;af=r djrk gS tcfd nwljk gkjusl fo"ke vadksa (Odd) okys /kkxksa dh xfrfof/k dk fu;a=.k djrk gSA ÁkjaHk esa igyk gkjusl le vadksa okys /kkxksa dks Åij mBkrk gS vkSj 'kVy ,d ckuk Mkyus gsrq xfr djrh gSA ykSVrs le; nwljk gkjusl fo"ke (Odd) vadksa okys /kkxksa dks Åij mBkrk gS vkSj rc 'kVy (Shuttle) buds uhps py dj ,d vU; ckuk Hkj nsrh gSA bl Ádkj cqukbZ esa vUrZxazFku dk Øe ÁR;sd fudVorhZ fljs ij iyV fn;k tkrk gSSA bl Ádkj fufeZr lajpuk oL= ds vkxs dh lrg ij (Face) ,oa ihNs dh rjQ (Back) vFkkZr~ nksuksa vksj ,d leku fn[kkbZ iM+rh gSA lknk cqukbZ dk ,d O;oLFkkRed fp= 5-3 esa Ánf'kZr gSA

Rkkuk

4 3 2

Ckkuk 1 1

fp= 77-3 lknk cqukbZ lajpuk

fp= 77-4 rkuk ,oa ckuk

,slh lajpukvksa dks fp= 5-4 dh Hkk¡fr js[kkfpf= ds }kjk Hkh le>k tk ldrk gSA bl fp= esa [kM+s LrEHkksa dks rkuk ds :i esa ekuk x;k gS rFkk mUgsa 1] 2] 3] 4 ls vafdr fd;k x;k gSA blh Ádkj vkM+h iafDr;ksa dks ckuk@Picks ekuk x;k gS vkSj mUgsa Hkh 1] 2] 3] 4 ls fpfUg~r fd;k x;k gSA ,sls fp= esa tgk¡ rkuk dk /kkxk ckuk ds Åij ls gksdj fudyrk gS] mls dkys oxZ (Black Square) ds :i esa fpfUgr fd;k tkrk gS rFkk tgk¡ rkuk dk /kkxk ckuk ds uhps gksrk gS] mls lQsn oxZ (White Square) ds :i esa fn[kk;k tkrk gSA ^^lknk cqukbZ** dks n'kkZus gsrq] rkuk la[;k 1 ckuk la[;k 1 ds Åij ls fudyrk gS] vr% dkyk n”kkZ;k x;k gS] ckuk la[;k 2 ds uhps ls fudyrk gS vr% lknk NksM+k x;k gSA ckuk la[;k 3 ds Åij gS vr% dkyk fpfUg~r gS vkSj ckuk la[;k 4 ds uhps gS vr% lknk NksM+k x;k gSA blh Ádkj vkxs Hkh js[kk fp= esa rkus o ckus fpfUg~r gSaA vc rkuk la[;k 2] ftls bl Øe dks myVuk gS] ckuk la[;k 2 vUrZxzFku ÁkjEHk djrk gSA ;g ^fid* la[;k 2 ds Åij ls xqtjrk gS] vr% mls dkyk n'kkZ;k x;k gS] ckuk la[;k 3 ds uhps gS] vr% lknk NwVk gS] ^fiad* la[;k 4 ds Åij gS] vr% dkyk fpfUg~r gS] vkSj ;g ÁfØ;k vkxs Hkh tkjh jgrh gSA bl js[kkfp= esa 4 rkus (Ends) ,oa 4 ckus (Picks) dk varxzZFku n'kkZ;k x;k gS ftldh ckj&ckj vko`fr diM+s dh lajpuk dks :i nsrh gSA ;g lknk cqukbZ dh lajpuk vR;f/kd n`<+ gksrh gS vkSj lokZf/kd cquh tkus okyh o Á;ksx vkus okyh lajpuk (Structure) gksrh gSA

7-3-2 fV~oy cqukbZ

(Twill weave)

bl cqukbZ ds fuekZ.k gsrq fV~oy cqukbZ lajpuk dks 3 rkuk ,oa 3 ckuk dh vko';drk gksrh gSA ;g cqukbZ fp= 5-5 esa Ánf'kZr frjNh js[kkvksa }kjk igpkuh tkrh gSA lcls ljy fV~oy dh jpuk esa ,d ckuk }kjk nks rkuk /kkxksa ds Åij ls gksdj xqt+jus ds Ik'pkr~ ,d rkuk /kkxs ds uhps ls gksdj tkus ds Øe dks ÁR;sd fid (Pick) esa nksgjk;k tkrk gSA fV~oy cqukbZ esa ,d rkuk ck;ha ;k nkfguh vksj ls Åij f[kldk;k tkrk gSA ftu fV~oy esa oL= ds Åijh lrg (Face) ij ckus dh vis{kk rkus dh la[;k vf/kd fn[kk;h iM+rh gS mUgsa ^okiZ QsLM* (Warp Faced) rFkk ftlesa ckus Ácy gksrs gSa mUgsa ^os¶V QsLM*(Weft Faced) fV~oy dgrs gSaA

fp= 7~oy cqukbZ lajpuk 7-5 fVoy

bl cqukbZ esa rkus ,oa ckus dk vUrZxzFku uhps Ánf'kZr dsoy nks :iksa esa gh gks ldrk gSA 7

1- 2 Åij 1 uhps]

2- 1 Åij 2 uhpsA

mi;ZqDr ÁfØ;k,¡ mRié dh tk ldrh gSa ¼1½ nk¡;h fV~oy (Right Hand Twill) tks 2 Åij 1 uhps ¼fp= 5-6½ ;k 1 Åij 2 uhps ¼fp= 5-7½ gks ldrh gS] vFkok ¼2½ ck¡;h fV~oy (Left Hand Twill) tks 2 Åij 1 uhps ¼fp= 5-8½ ;k 1 Åij 2 uhps ¼fp= 5-9½ fV~oy gks ldrh gSA fp=ksa ls ;g vR;Ur Li"V gS fd fV~oy vko`fr 3 rkuk 3 ckuk /kkxksa esa iw.kZ gksrh gSA vUrxzZFku ds Ik'pkr~ oL= ij js[kk,¡ Ánf”kZr gks tkrh gaSA fp= 5-6 rFkk 5-7 esa ;g js[kk,¡ fupys Hkkx ls Åij nkfguh vksj tkrh gSa ;g ^fV~oy* nk¡;h fV~oy dgykrh gSA ;fn ;g js[kk,¡ uhps nkfgus ls Åijh dh vksj tkrh gS] rc bUgsa ck¡;h fV~oy* dgrs gSa ¼fp= 5-8 vkSj 5-9½A 6

1 1

fp= 77-7

fp= 77- 6 cka;h fV~ fV~oy

fp= 77- 8

fp= 77- 9 nka;h fV~oy

mi;qZDr nksuksa gh cqukbZ;ksa esa ¼vFkkZr~ lknk vkSj fV~oy½ vxyk vuq:i lehiorhZ rkuk xzkQ esa ,d oxZ Åij p<+ dj vUrZxzaFku ÁkjEHk djrk gSA ;g oxZ dk ,d p<+uk LVsfiax uEcj (Stepping Number) dgykrk gSA

7-3-3 lkfVu@lkVhu cqukbZ

(Satin/Sateen weave)

lkfVu ,d ,slk oL= gS ftlesa ,d pedhyh lrg vkxs dh rFkk ihNs dh lrg gksrh gSA lkfVu ,d rkuk Ácy cqukbZ gS tks fp= 5-10 esa Ánf'kZr gSA blesa oL= ,d U;wure ek=k ds vUrxzZFku ls curk gSA

fp= 77-10 lk lkfVu cqukbZ

,d lkfVu cquk oL= diM+s ij cM+h la[;k esa ^^¶yksV** (Float) ds gksus ds dkj.k vR;f/kd ped okyk gksrk gSA ¶yksV ^^foQy** vUrxzZFku gSa] tgk¡ rkuk dk /kkxk ckuk ds Åij cSBrk gS ;k ckuk dk /kkxk rkuk ds Åij cSBrk gSA ¶yksV diM+s dks vf/kd pedhyk cukrs gSa rFkk vf/kdrj bls Nwus ij vkSj fpduk o eqyk;e izrhr gksrk gSaA bl Ádkj dh cqukbZ ds fy, de ls de 5 rkus o 5 ckus ds lsV (Set) dh vko';drk gksrh gSA bl cqukbZ ds le; fuEu rhu vk/kkfjd fl)karksa dk Á;ksx djuk gksrk gS % i) la[;kRed tksM+ksa dk pquko bl Ádkj fd;k tkuk pkfg, ftlls fd mudk ;ksx lkfVu cqukbZ dk mRiknu djus okys “kk¶V dh la[;k ds cjkcj gks A tSls 8&end

lkfVu ds fy;s vkidks 8 'kk¶V dh vko';drk gksxhA vr% 1 o 7] 2 ,oa 6] 3 o 5 rFkk 4 o 4 ;qxy gkasxsA ii) LVsfiax uEcj 1 ;k 1 ls de ugha gks ldrk] vFkkZr~ ¼bl Ádj.k esa½ 8 & 1 ¾ 7] iii) LVsfiax uEcj 2] 4] 6 ugha gks ldrk gSA

lkfVu ;k lkVhu cqukbZ dks ;fn vkB “kk¶V ij cukuk gks rks nks fof/k;ksa ls cuk ldrs gSaA ;fn LVsfiax uEcj 3 gks rks ¼fp= 5-11½ rFkk ;fn LVsfiax uEcj 5 gks rks fp= 5-12 esa çnf'kZr gSA

fp= 77-11 cka;h% os¶V Qsl] nka;h% okiZ Qsl 8

7 6

4 3

8 1

7 8

Sateen with Stepping No. 5

7 6 5 4 3 2 1 1

7 8

Satin with Stepping No. 5

fp= 77-12 cka;h% os¶V Qsl] nka;h% okiZ Qsl

bl Ádkj ;fn lkfVu@lkVhu cqukbZ dks 5 rkus o ckus dh lgk;rk ls cukuk gS rks LVsfiax uEcj 2 ;k rhu gh gks ldrk gSA bl Ádkj ds 5 ,sUM okyk lkVhu o lkfVu oL= uhps fn;k x;k gS ¼fp= 5-13] 5-14½ 9

ckuk Ácy lkfVu dks lkVhu (Sateen) dgk tkrk gS rFkk rkuk Ácy dks lkfVu (Satin)A lkekU;r% ckt+kj esa lkVhu gh miyC/k gksrh gS ijUrq yksx bls ^lkfVu^ ds uke ls iqdkjrs gSaA

1 1

3 3

1 1

LVsfiax uå 3

1 2 2 2

LVsfiax uå 2

lkVhu ¼os¶V Qsl½) ½ 5

1 1

LVsfiax uå 3

LVsfiax uå 2

lkfVu ¼okiZ ¼okiZ Qsl½ fp= 77-13 ¼Åij½ Åij½ fp= 55-14 ¼uhps ½

Lo;a tk¡p Á'u

(Self Check Questions)

4- fjDr LFkkuksa dh iwfrZ djsa & i) rkuk o ckuk ds varZxzFku dk ljyre :i _________________ cqukbZ gSA ii) fV~oy cqukbZ ds fy, U;wure _____________ rkuk rFkk ____________ ckuk

dh vko';drk gksrh gSA iii) ___________ cqukbZ ,d pedhyh lrg rFkk ihNs ls gYdh lrg Ánku djrh gSA iv) fV~oy cqukbZ ds nks Ádkj ____________ fV~oy vkSj ____________ fV~oy gSaA v) Lkknk cqukbZ dh jpuk gsrq de ls de ______________ gkjusl dh vko';drk gksrh gSA

xfrfof/k

(Activity)

2- ,d ^fid Xykl * dh lgk;rk ls 5 fofHké cqukbZ okys diM+ksa dk fo'ys"k.k djus ds i'pkr~ ¼8 × 8½ ds xzkQ isij ij ik¡pksa cqukbZ jpukvksa dks vafdr djus dk Á;kl djsaA

7-4

dqN ekud oL=

(Some Standard Fabrics) 10

eqDr lkaL—frd fojklr okys Hkkjr dh oL= laca/kh ek¡x ds fy, ;gk¡ ij oL=ksa dh ,d cgqr foLr`r J`a[kyk dk mRiknu fd;k tkrk gS ftlesa ijEijkxr ,oa vk/kqfud ifj/kku dk fo'ks"k vfLrRo gSA Hkkjr ds fofHké Hkkxksa esa oL=ksa ds mi;ksx esa ÁkIr varj] laHkor% fo'o esa cstksM+ gSA bu fHkérkvksa dks ÁkIr djus ds fy, vk/kkjHkwr cqukbZ esa lq/kkj ykus] ltkoVh /kkxksa ds Á;ksx] jaxhu /kkxksa] fofHké ,asBu okys /kkxksa rFkk jatu] d'khnkdkjh o fofHké Ádkj dh vyadj.k fof/k;ksa dk lgkjk fy;k tkrk gSA

7-4-1 lknk cqukbZ ds oL=

(PLAIN WEAVE FABRICS)

dqN lknk cqukbZ ds oL= ckt+kj esa fuEu ukeksa ls miyC/k gaSA • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

'khfVax (Sheeting) ykWu (Lawn) eyey (Muslin) ikWifyu (Poplin) dSuokl (Canvas) dsles.V (Casement) vkxZ.Mh (Organdy) dSfEczd (Cambric) 'kSEczs (Chambray) fta?ke (Gingham) okW;y (Voile) tkWtsZV (Georgette) f'kQkWu (Chiffon) :fc;k (Rubia)

;g lHkh oL= eksVkbZ] jax ;k rkus vkSj ckus ds /kkxksa vFkok nksuksa esa vUrj ds dkj.k ,d nwljs ls fHké gaSA vc ge ftu lknk cqukbZ dks ysus tk jgs gSa muesa ls vf/kdka'kr% lwrh gSaA • 'khfVax (Sheeting) ,d e/;e ls Hkkjh Hkkj okyk lknk cqukbZ okyk oL= gSA ;g diM+k vf/kdka'kr% ijns] pknj (Bed Cover) vkfn ds fy, Á;ksx esa yk;k tkrk gSA lkekU;r% pknj] lwrh ikWfy,LVj tSls lafefJr /kkxksa ls cqus gksrs gSaA • ykWu (Lawn) ,d gYdk] eghu diM+k gS tks dM+k vkSj lyoVjks/kh gksrk gSA ;g ifj/kku] Cykmt+ rFkk :eky cukus esa Á;qDr gksrk gSA vkn'kZHkwr ykWu esa 30 × 32 rkuk@ckuk Áfr lsaVhehVj gksrk gSA • eyey (Muslin) gYds ls e/;e Hkkj okyk] dM+k] vfojaftr (Unbleached) vkSj lknk cquk oL= gksrk gSA ;g fMt+kbuj (Designer) ifj/kku ds lsEiy cukus esa Á;ksx vkrk gSA eyey dk Á;ksx pknjsa] lTtk oL= vkfn cukus esa gksrk gSA dikl ds vfrfjDr ;g js'keh rFkk olZVsM /kkxksa ls Hkh cuk;k tk ldrk gSA • ikWifyu (Poplin) ,d e/;e Hkkj rFkk lknk cqukbZ okyk diM+k gS ftldk rkuk eghu vkSj ckuk eksVk gksrk gSA bldh Áeq[k igpku ;g gS fd blesa ckus dh fn'kk esa js[kk,¡ ftUgsa fjc (Rib) dgrs gSa fn[kkbZ nsrh gSA elZjkbZt+ dkWVu (Merscerised Cotton) dk ,d cM+k Hkkx ikWifyu cukus ds dke vkrk gSA lHkh ikWifyu ij dysfUMªax (calendaring) gksrhs gSA ;g isVhdksV] ik;tkek] Cykmt+ vkfn cukus ds dke esa vkrk gSA vkn'kZHkwr ikWifyu dk rkuk vkSj ckuk dh la[;k 48@24 Áfr lasVhehVj gksrh gSA • dSuokl (Canvas) ,d Hkkjh] l?ku cquk] lknk] xzs jax dk ¼vifjlfTtr½ diM+k gksrk gSA ;g ifj/kku] tEi lwV o vkS|ksfxd oL= cukus esa Á;ksx vkrk gSA blds fuekZ.k esa 11

•

dikl ds vfrfjDr gsEi o twV ds js'kksa dk Á;ksx gksrk gSA rkuk rFkk ckuk 10 ls 20 ;k 10 ls 16 Áfr lsaVhehVj gksrk gSA dsles.V (Casement) ,d lknk cqukbZ okyk diM+k gS ftlds rkus vkSj ckuk esa vis{kk—r de ,saBu gksrh gSA ;g lTtk oL= (Furnishings)] d'khnkdkjh] Vscy fyusu vkfn cukus ds dke esa vkrk gSA blesa ,.M o fid 21 × 25 Áfr lsaVhehVj gksrs gSaA vkxZ.Mh (Organdy) ,d gYds Hkkj okyk] dM+d] ukt+qd (Sheer), fQlyus okyk pednkj lQsn lwrh diM+k gksrk gSA blds mRiknu esa eghu rkuk vkSj ckuk dk Á;ksx fd;k tkrk gSA bl ij ,d fo'ks"k jklk;fud ifjlTtk dh tkrh gSA bldk mi;ksx ifj/kku cukus ds fy, fd;k tkrk gSA dSfEczd (Cambric) ,d eqyk;e] fpduk] l?ku cquk gqvk oL= gksrk gS ftldh Åijh lrg ij ifjlTtk dh tkrh gS ftlls ;g pedhyk ÁHkko Mkyrk gSA bldk Á;ksx ifj/kku lkexzh] cPpksa ds Mªsl] Vscy fyusu vkfn cukus esa gksrk gSA vkn'kZHkwr dSfEczd esa Áfr lsaVhehVj 38 rkuk vkSj 32 ckuk gksrs gSaA 'kSEczs (Chambray) ,d lknk] e/;e ls Hkkjh otu okyk rFkk jaxghu rkuk ,oa lQsn ckuk }kjk cquk oL= gksrk gSA ;g lknk] /kkjhnkj ;k pSd (Check) esa gks ldrk gSA ;g lwV] vksoj vkWyl (Over All), iq#"kksa ds lwV vkfn cukus esa Á;ksx vkrk gSA fta?ke (Gingham) ,d e/;e ls gYds Hkkj okyh] [kqyh xBu okyh] lknk cqukbZ gksrh gS ftlds rkus vkSj ckus vyx vyx jaxksa esa jaxs gksrs gSaA Á;qDr lwr] jaxksa ds iDdsiu] cqukbZ ,oa Hkkj ds vuqlkj budh xq.koŸkk esa varj gksrk gSA budk Á;ksx ?kjsyw ifj/kku] ,sÁu] insZ vkfn esa gksrk gSA okW;y (Voile) ,d gYds Hkkj okyk oL= gS ftlds rkuk vkSj ckuk esa mPp ,saBu okyk nksgjk eghu dkWEc (Comb) fd;k x;k /kkxk Á;ksx gksrk gSA blls ;g dM+d (Crisp) gks tkrk gS rFkk mŸke dksfV dh oL= lTtk Ánku djrk gSA ;g Cykmt+] pknj (bedspreads) xzh"e dky ds ifj/kku] cPpksa ds ifj/kku bR;kfn cukus ds dke vkrk gSA dikl ds vfrfjDr okW;y olZVsM ls Hkh cuk;k tkrk gSA tkWtsZV (Georgette) ,d lknk] ukt+qd (Sheer)] gYds Hkkj okyk diM+k gS ftlesa ‘S” vkSj ‘Z” fn'kkvksa esa mPp ,saBu ds /kkxksa dk Á;ksx rkuk vkSj ckuk dh fn'kk esa fd;k tkrk gSA ;g diM+s dh lrg ij ckyw ds leku [kqjnqjk (Rough) Li'kZ nsrk gSA bldk Á;ksx lkM+h rFkk efgykvksa ds ifj/kku cukus esa fd;k tkrk gSA :fc;k (Rubia) ,d lknk oL= gS ftlesa mPp ,saBu okys nksgjs /kkxs dk rkuk ,oa ckuk Á;ksx fd;k tkrk gSA ;g ikjnf'kZrk (Transparency) Ánku djrk gSA bldk mi;ksx lkM+h ,oa Cykmt+ cukus ds fy, fd;k tkrk gSA

7-4-2 fV~oy cqukbZ ds oL=

(Twill weave fabrics)

,d fV~oy cqukbZ esa rkus ds /kkxs 2 IykbZ (2 ply) okys rFkk ckuk bdgjk (Single) gksrk gSA Msfue (Denim)] xScjMhu (Gabardine) rFkk fMªy (Drill) fV~oy cqukbZ okys oL= gSaA • fMªy (Drill) ,d l?ku cquk] e/;e Hkkj okyk fVdkÅ diM+k gS tks fpduk fd;k gqvk (Sized) rFkk Hkkjh jksyj ls bfLrjh fd;k x;k ¼elZjkbZt+½ gksrk gSA tc ;g [kkdh jax esa jaxk gksrk gS rc bls ^^[kkdh** dgrs gSaA fMªy }kjk cuk, x, ifj/kku esa dk;Z'kkyk ifj/kku (Lab- Coat)] LuhdlZ (Sneakers)] 'kkWVZ~l (Shorts)] vksoj vkWYl (Over all) vkfn vkrs gaSA • Msfue (Denim) vf/kd ,saBu okys /kkxs ls cuk, tkrs gSaA ;g ,d l?ku cquk gqvk o e/;e Hkkj okyk oL= gSA bldk rkuk jaxhu vkSj ckuk lQsn gksrk gSA ;g bf.Mxks Cyw (Indigo Blue) esa jaxs rkus rFkk xzs ;k vfojaftr (Unbleached) ckus ls cuk gksrk gSA rkuk diM+s dh lrg (Face) ij gksrk gS tcfd ckuk diM+s ds ihNs ds Hkkx ij jgrk 12

gSA Msfue dk Á;ksx dk;Z ifj/kku (Work Clothing)] thUl (Jeans)] cSx (Bag)] deht vkfn cukus esa gksrk gSA rkuk@ckuk] 36@24 Áfr lsaVhehVj gksrs gSaA • xScjMhu (Gaberdine) ,d e/;e Hkkj okyk oL= gSA bldh lrg vR;ar Li"V rFkk rkuk fV~oy cqukbZ ds :Ik esa gksrk gSA ;g dkfMZax (Carding) rFkk dkWfEcax (Combing) fd, gq, /kkxksa }kjk fufeZr gksrk gS ftleas ckuk bdgjs ;k IykbZ (Ply) /kkxksa dk Á;ksx fd;k tkrk gSA bldk Á;ksx ;wfuQkWeZl (Uniforms)] LiksVZ~los;j (Sportswear)] jsudksV (Raincoat)] LdVZ (Skirt) vkfn cukus esa gksrk gSA

7-4-3 lkfVu cqukbZ ds oL=

(Satin weave fabrics)

lkfVu e/;e ;k Hkkjh Hkkj okyk oL= gS ftldk fuekZ.k l?ku cqus x, rkus }kjk gksrk gSA ;g etcwr] eqyk;e ,oa ped okyk oL= Ánku djrk gSA bldh lkeus dh lrg (Face) fpduh vkSj ihNs dh lrg (Back) gYdh ,oa avis{kk—r [kqjnjh gksrh gSA ,d pedhys ÁHkko ds fy, oL= dks elZjkbZt+ (Mercerise) fd;k tkrk gSA bldk Á;ksx fookg ds volj okyh lkfM+;ksa rFkk ifj/kkuksa ds fuekZ.k esa fd;k tkrk gSA

Lo;a Lo;a tk¡p Á'u Á'u

(Self Check Questions)

5- Msfue dks mldh vuks[kh fn[kkoV fdlls ÁkIr gksrh gS\ 6- lkfVu cqukbZ }kjk fufeZr oL= D;ksa vf/kd pednkj gksrs gSa\ 7- efgykvksa dh lkM+h cukus ds fy, lokZf/kd mi;qDr diM+ksa dh lwph cuk,¡A vius pquko ds fy, dkj.kksa dk mYys[k djsaA

7-5

nÙk dk;Z

7-5-1 d{kk dk;Z

(Assignments) (Class assignments)

i) xzkQ+ dkxt+ ij fV~oy cqukbZ dh lajpuk dks js[kkafdr djsaA

7-5-2 x`g dk;Z

(Home assignments)

i) lknk cqus] fV~oy cqukbZ rFkk lkfVu@lkVhu cqukbZ okys oL=ksa ds VqdM+s ÁkIr djsaA mUgsa oxkZdkj (Square) VqdM+ksa esa dkVsa rFkk ,d pkVZ ij fpidk dj mudh igpku djsaA

7-6

Lkkjka Lkkjka'k

(Summing Up)

bl ikB esa geus cqukbZ dh ÁfØ;k ds ckjs esa fopkj fd;k ,oa dj?kk rFkk mlds fofHké Hkkxksa dk o.kZu vkSj foospu fd;kA mlds ckn dj?ks ij mRikfnr fofHké cqukb;ksa dk o.kZu fd;k x;kA rhu vk/kkjHkwr cqukbZ;k¡ ¼lknk] fV~oy ,oa lkfVu½ ij vk/kkfjr Hkkjrh; ckt+kj esa miyC/k dqN lkekU; oL=ksa dk Hkh ;gk¡ o.kZu fd;k x;kA ikB ls ;g fu"d’kZ fudkyk fd& i) vk/kkjHkwr cqukbZ ds rhu Ádkj gSa& lknk] fV~oy vkSj lkfVuA bUgsa Áeq[k cqukbZ (Primary Weaves) Hkh dgrs gaSA ii) lknk cqukbZ ds fy, ,d fjihV bdkbZ (Repeat Unit) ds fuekZ.k gsrq nks rkus ds /kkxksa

rFkk nks ckus ds /kkxksa ds ,d lsV dh vko';drk gksrh gSA 13

iii) fV~oy cqukbZ esa ,d fjiksZV bdkbZ fufeZr djus ds fy, rhu rkuk ds /kkxs vkSj rhu ckuk

ds /kkxksa ds lsV dh vko”;drk gksrh gSA iv) lkfVu cqukbZ ds fy;s ik¡p rkuk ,oa ckuk ds lsV dh vko';drk gksrh gSA v) oL= fofHké ckrksa esa fHké gksrs gSa] tSls mudh fn[kkoV (Look) l?kurk (compactness)] ped] eksVkbZ] Li'kZ] lkSan;Zcks/k] ;kaf=d ,oa vU; xq.kA ;g fHkérk,¡

fofHké ,saBu vkSj eksVkbZ okys /kkxksa ds Á;ksx }kjk] fofHké Ádkj ds js'kksa ds Á;ksx rFkk fofHké cqukbZ }kjk yk;h tk ldrh gSA

7-7

Lo;a Lo;a tk¡ tk¡p Á'uks Á'uksa ds laHkkfor mÙkj (Possible Answers to Self Assessment Questions) 1. cqukbZ] QUnk cqukbZ rFkk ukWuoksou rduhdA 2. okiZ che] gkjusl] gSMy] jhM] “kVy] DykWFk cheA 3. fjDr LFkkuksa dks Hkjsa& (i) 'ksfMax] fifdax] chfVax (ii) yEckbZ] pkSM+kbZ (iii) dj?kk @ywe (iv) rkuk] ckuk 4. fjDr LFkkuksa dks Hkjsa& (i) lknk (ii) rhu&rhu (iii) lkVhu

(iv) ck¡;h gkFk dh] nk¡;h gkFk dh (v) nks

5. Msfue dk fuekZ.k vf/kd ,saBu okys /kkxksa ls gksrk gSA ;g ,d l?kurk ls cquk x;k vkSj

e/;e Hkkj okyk oL= gSA bldk rkuk jaxhu vkSj ckuk lQsn gksrk gSA ;g bafMxks Cyw ls jaxs rkuk rFkk xzs ;k vfojaftr ckuk }kjk cuk;k tkrk gSA rkuk oL= dh lrg (Face) ij gksrk gS ,oa ckuk ihNs ds Hkkx ij fn[krk gS tks ,d vuks[kh fn[kkoV (Look) Ánku djrk gSA 6. lkfVu e/;e ;k Hkkjh Hkkj okyk oL= gS tks ifjlfTtr ,oa lVk dj cqus x, rkuk /kkxksa

}kjk cuk gksrk gSA ;g ,d rkuk Ácy oL= gS ftlesa varZxzFku dh la[;k U;wure gksrh gSA Á;ksx esa yk, x, oL= lkekU;r% elZjkbZt+ gksrs gSaA ;g ÁfØ;k bls pednkj cukrh gSA 7. lkfM+;ksa ds fy, mi;qDr oL= tks Hkkj esa gYds rFkk lkSan;Zcks/k dh n`f’V ls jkspd gksrs gSa

uhps fn, x, gSa& o js'ke] lkfVu] tkWtsZV] f'kQkWu] vkxZ.MhA

7-8

vH;klkFkZ Á'u

(Terminal Questions)

1. ,d dj?kk D;k gS\ okiZ che dSls rS;kj fd;k tkrk gS\ 2. dj?ks dh ÁkFkfed vkSj f}fr;d pkysa D;k gS \ O;k[;k djsaA 3. vk/kkjHkwr cqukbZ ls vki D;k le>rs gSa\ vk/kkjHkwr cqukbZ ds uke crk,¡A 4. lknk cqukbZ vkSj fV~oy cqukbZ diM+ksa ds dkSu ls xq.k gSa\ 5. ,d lkfVu cqukbZ D;k gS\

6. lknk cqukbZ eyey vkSj tkWtsZV dh Hkk¡fr fHké diM+k Ánku dj ldrh gSA bls fdl

Ádkj ÁkIr fd;k tkrk gS\

7-9

lanHkZ ,oa ,oa v/;;u ;ksX; iqLrdsa (References and Suggested Further Reading) 1. Aggarwals, V.K. (Ed.) Weaving technology, Dept. of Textile Technology, IIT, New Delhi. 2. Banerjee, N.N. (1999), Weaving Mechanism : Vol. 2.11th Ed. Textile Book House, Behrampore. 3. Newton, A. (1993), fabric Manufacture : A Handbook, Intermediate Technology Publications, London. 4. Z- Grosick, (1988), Watson”s Textile Design and Colour, Universal Publishing Corporation, Bombay.

7-10 'kCnkoyh

(Glossary)

1. lVuk (Cohesion)

vkil esa lVus dh ÁfØ;k esa l{ke gksukA

2. rkuk (Warp)

diM+s dh yEckbZ dh fn'kk esa yxk gqvk /kkxkA

3. ckuk (Weft)

diM+s dh pkSM+kbZ dh fn'kk esa yxk gqvk /kkxkA

4. pednkj (Glossy)

fpduk ,oa pednkjA

5. lknk cqukbZ (Plain weave)

varZxzaFku dk lcls ljy :Ik tks dsoy nks gkjusl }kjk cuk;k tk ldrk gSA igyk gkjusl le vad okys /kkxksa dks Åij mBkrk gS rFkk 'kVy ,d ckuk Hkjus ds fy;s xfr djrh gSA okilh ds le; nwljk gkjusl fo"ke vad okys /kkxksa dks Åij mBkrk gS vkSj 'kVy nwljk ckuk /kkxk Hkjus ds fy;s xfr djrh gSA

6. chfVax (Beating)

dj?ks dh vafre ÁkFkfed pky ftlds }kjk Hkjk gqvk ckuk /kkxk vafre ckuk /kkxs ds ikl yxk fn;k tkrk gSA

7. DykWFk che (Cloth Beam)

dj?ks ij yxk og jksyj ftl ij cquk gqvk diM+k yisVk tkrk gSA

8. Ik)fr (Technique)

dk;Z djus dh fof/kA

9. vkS|ksfxd Ápyu (Commercially acceptable)

vkS|ksfxd txr esa Lohdkj gksus okyh o Á;ksx gksus okyh fØ;kA