11- diM+s ij VSDl~ pj~ cukuk& l~pj~ pj cukuk I (CREATING TEXTURES ON TEXTILES-I) ikB 10 esa vkius fofHkUu çdkj ds VSDlpj rFkk mudh igpku djus dk v/;;u fd;kA bl ikB rFkk vxys ikB esa ge diM+s ij VSDl~pj~ cukus ds fofHkUu ek/;eksa rFkk fof/k;ksa dk v/;;u djsaxsA
11-0 mís'; bl ikB dk v/;;u djus ij ge tkusaxs& • diM+s ij fHkUUk&fHkUu rduhdksa ls VSDl~pj~ dSls cuk;k tkrk gSA
11-1 çLrkouk Tkc gekjh igpku djus dh le> rhoz gks tkrh gS rks ge ;g tkusaxs fd bl Kku dks ge u;s fMt+kbu cukus ds fy, fdl çdkj ç;ksx esa yk ldrs gSaA diM+s ij VSDl~pj~ cukuk fMt+kbu dk ,d rRo ;k fMt+kbu 'kSyh gSA bl ikB esa diM+s ij VSDl~pj~ cukus dh rduhd] /kkxs] cqukbZ] ifjlTtk ¼finishes)] diM+s dh gLrdkS'ky] çfrjks/kd ¼resist) fof/k rFkk xqQk dyk fMt+kbu ds fo"k; esa tkudkjh nh tk;sxhA
11-2 VSDl~ ~pj pj~ cukus dh fof/k;k¡ lpj~ 11-2-1 /kkxs (YARNS) VSDl~pj~ okys diM+s cukus ds fy, mŸke VSDl~pj~ okys lwr@/kkxs dk ç;ksx dj ldrs gSaA mnkgj.k ds fy, fpdus rFkk js'ke ds /kkxs ls cquk x;k diM+k pedhyk rFkk eqyk;e cusxkA [kqjnqjk rFkk etcwr fn[kus okyk diM+k twV ds /kkxs ;k ukfj;y dh tVk ds lwr ¼fp= 11-1½ ls cuk;k tk ldrk gSA VSDl~pj~ okyk diM+k cukus ds fy, Lyc ;k ltkoVh (slub/facny) /kkxs dk ç;ksx fd;k tk ldrk gSaA ¼fp= 11-2½
fp= % 1111-1 twV ds /kkxs ls cquk gqvk diM+k
fp= % 1111-2 LLYYkc /kkxs ls cquk gqvk diM+k
11-2-2 cqukbZ dh lajpuk (WEAVE STRUCTURES)
1
cqukbZ dh fHkUu&fHkUu lajpukvksa }kjk VSDl~pj~ cuk;k tk ldrk gSA mnkgj.k ds fy, tc ge ckLdsV oho (basket weave) dk ç;ksx djds diM+k cqurs gSa] rks bldk VSDl~pj~ ikby oho (pile weave) ls vyx gksrk gSA ¼fp=]11-3]11-4½
fp=% 1111-4 ikby cqukbZ
fp=% 1111-3 ckLdsV cqukbZ
lsVhu oho esa cqus x;s diM+s ¼fp=% 11-5½ ds HkkSfrd xq.k VSjh rkSfy;s (terry towel) ls vyx gksrs gSa ¼fp=]11-6½ ftldh lrg ij ikby jpuk gksrh gSA lh/ks cqus x;s diM+s ls VSjh rkSfy;k (terry towel) vf/kd ueh dks 'kksf’kr djrk gSA fV~oy oho (twill weave) ls cqus diM+s rFkk ckLdsV oho (basket weave) ls cqus diM+s ds HkkSfrd xq.k vyx vyx gksrs gSa ¼fp=]11-7 rFkk 11-8½A
fp=% 1111-5 lsVhu oho
fp=% 1111-6 VSjh rkSfy;k oho
fp=% 1111-7 fV~oy oho
fp=% 1111-8 ckLdsV oho
11-2-3 ifjlTtk (FINISHES) diM+k rS;kj gksus ds ckn mudh vfUre ltkoV dh tkrh gSA mnkgj.k ds fy, flyoVksa okyh lrg (crinkled and crushed surface) mPp rkieku ij] flvj~ ld~j diM+s (seer sucker fabric) }kjk cukbZ tkrh gSA ;g VSDl~pj~ okyk diM+k cukus dh nwljh fof/k gaSA mnkgj.k ds fy, eflZjkbt+M diM+k dk vuqHko fpduk gksrk gS ¼fp=]11-9½ rFkk LFkkbZ flyoVksa dk ¼fp=% 11-10½ ;k pqUuV okyk diM+k ¼fp=% 11-11½ fHkUu VSDl~pj~ dk gksrk gSaA xje vFkok tys gq, dk ÁHkko ,d leku gksrk gSaA
fp= % 1111-9 js”ke dh ped okys diM+s dk fpduk vuqHko
fp= % 1111-10 LFkk;h fØUdYM diM+k
fp= % 1111-11 IyhVsM diM+k 2
11-2-4 xqQk dyk fMt+kbu xqQk dyk fMt+kbu fuEu çdkj ls cuk;k tk ldrk gSA ,d vk/kh bEihfj;y 'khV yhft,A ml ij ,d la;kstu lQsn Øs;ksu js[kkvksa ls ljy T;kehfr; vk—fr cuk;sA fMt+kbu cukus ds fy, eksecÙkh dh cwanksa dk ç;ksx dhft,A 'khV ds fdukjs (margin) ij piVs cz'k ls fpidkus ds inkFkZ ls fpidk,A nks feuV lw[kus ds ckn 'khV dks dkys iksLVj jax ls jax nsaA bldk ifj.kke fp=]11-12 esa fn[kk;k x;k gSA
fp= 1111-12 xqQk dyk
xfrfof/k (Activity) 1. f=Hkqt] oxZ] o`Ÿk] Qy] tSls lsc] vke] oLrq] tSls isM+] Nkrk] leqæh tgkt vkfn dks cMs+ (bold) vkdkj esa jaxhu oSDl Øs;ksu }kjk cukb,A rFkk 'khV dks dkys jax ls jax nhft,A
Lo;a tk¡p ç” ç”u 1- VSDl~pj~ cukus dh fof/k;ksa (methods) dh lwph cukb,A 2- vki dkxt+ ij xqQk dyk fMt+kbu dSls cuk,xsa\ 3- vki cqukbZ }kjk diM+s esa VSDl~pj~ dSls cuk,xsa\ 4- ifjlTtk ls vkidk D;k vfHkçk; gS\
11-3 nÙk dk;Z 11-3-1 d{kk dk;Z i) lQsn dkxt+ ij dsoy lQsn lkexzh ds ç;ksx }kjk ik¡p VSDl~pj~ cukb, o mudk
vuqokn vkSj ifjorZu dj dkxt+ VSDl~pj~ dks lQsn diM+s ij Á;ksx djsa rFkk lQsn /kkxs vkSj dksbZ Hkh lQsn lkexzh tSls eksrh ]cVu vkfn dk Á;ksx djsaA bu ikW¡p dkxt+ VSDl~pj~ vkSj ikW¡p diM+s ds VSDl~pj~ dks vxyh d{kk ls iwoZ iw.kZ dhft,A
11-3-2 x`g dk;Z i) vk/kh bEihfj;y 'khV ij nks le:Ik Qwynku dh :ijs[kk cukb,A igys Qwynku esa
cgqjaxh; jax ;kstuk ds vuqlkj oSDl Øs;kWu jaxksa ls jax Hkfj,A rFkk nwljs la;kstu esa 3
dsoy lQsn Øs;kWu ds Á;ksx }kjk cuk,A igys Qwynku dks dkys jax rFkk nwljs dks cgqjaxh; jax ;kstuk ds }kjk cukb,A
11-4 lkjka”k diM+s ij VSDl~pj~ dbZ çdkj ls cuk;k tk ldrk gSaA buesa ls dqN gSa % i) fHkUu&fHkUUk çdkj ds lwr @/kkxs dk ç;ksxA ii) fofHkUu çdkj dh cqukbZ dh lajpuk tSls ckLdsV oho] ikby oho A iii) fHkUu&fHkUu ifjlTtk }kjk tSls LFkkbZ pqUuV vkSj mPPk rki ij flyoVsa] cuZ
vkmV flvj~ ld~j] çhfp~ax vkfnA iv) diM+s ij VSDl~pj~ NikbZ }kjkA
11-5 Lo;a tk¡p ç” ç”uksa ds laHkkfor mÙkj 1. VSDl~pj~ cukus ds fof/k gSa % /kkxs] cqukbZ dh lajpuk] ifjlTtk] xqQk dyk fMt+kbuA 2. ,d vk/kh bEihfj;y 'khV yhft,A rFkk ml ij lQsn fØ;ksu ls js[kk,¡ rFkk ljy T;kferh; vk—fr cuk;sA fMt+kbu cukus ds fy, eksecÙkh dh cwanksa dks ç;ksx esa ykb,A 'khV ds fdukjs ¼margin) ij piVs cz'k }kjk fpidkus dk inkFkZ yxkb,A nks feuV lw[kus ds ckn iwjh 'khV dks dkys iksLVj jax ls jafx,A 3. lsVhu oho esa cqus x;s diM+s ds HkkSfrd xq.k VSjh rkSfy;s (terry towel) ls vyx gksrs gSa ftldh lrg ij ikby jpuk gksrh gSA lh/ks cqus x;s diM+s ls VSjh rkSfy;k (terry towel) vf/kd ueh dks 'kksf"kr djrk gSA fV~oy oho (twill weave) ls cqus diM+s rFkk ckLdsV oho (basket weave) ls cqus diM+s ds HkkSfrd xq.k vyx vyx gksrs gSaA 4. diM+k rS;kj djus ds ckn mudh ifjlTtk dh tkrh gSA mnkgj.k ds fy, flyoVksa okyh lrg mPp rkieku ij] flvj~ ldj diM+s (seer sucker fabric) }kjk cukbZ tkrh gSA
11-6 vH;klkFkZ ç” ç”u 1. diM+s ij VSDl~pj~ cukus dh fof/k ds rhu uke fyf[k,A 2. VSDl~pj~ cukus dh ,d fof/k dk foLrkj ls o.kZu dfj,A
11-7 lanHkZ ,oa v/;;u ;ksX; iqLrdsa 1- Anonymous 2006, The compete Guide to drawing and painting, Quantum Publidhing ltd London. 2- Susan, M and joost, E 1991, Textile Designs. Thames and Hudson ltd. London. 4
11-8 'kCnkoyh 1- flvj~] ldj 2345-
Áfrjks/k LYkc eflZjkbt+M Vsjh VkWoy
;g lwrh diM+k ftlesa rkus dh fn'kk esa LFkkbZ pqUuVnkj /kkfj;k¡ gksrh gSaA ck/kk ,d Ádkj dk fcuk ,saBu dk eksVk /kkxkA jlk;fud fØ;k }kjk ped dks csgrj cukukA ugkus dk rkSfy;k ftlesa [kqjnjk jksvka gksrk gSA
5